Issue 8

Global Living issue 8 | September/october 2013

Living Luxuriously, Worldwide

magazine

alaskan cruise via un-cruise A Luxury Adventure On Board the 232-foot Safari Endeavor

Hotel Plaza Athenee Paris The Iconic Luxury Hotel Celebrates its 100-year Anniversary

Phuket Beach clubs

An Insider's Guide to the Top Beach Clubs in Phuket, Thailand

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St. Croix mallorca Maine myanmar Vietnam

Rat Pack Escape to

Palm Springs

48 hours in the californian sun-baked community nestled against the jagged, soaring San Jacinto peaks A Global Media Partners LLC Publication www.GlobalLivingMagazine.com

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Global*Within Living Magazine Europe

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR alison cavatore

S

ummer is quickly turning into fall and, as the weather begins to change and closets get turned around for appropriate attire, we want to take a second and enjoy the moments we spent under the sun over the past few months.

Personally, I had quite an eventful summer, not only by launching the first official Summer Issue of Global Living, but also as I traveled for some R&R to Holland, France, Germany and my birth-city, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, for a family friend’s wedding. It was a glorious mix of past and present this summer – from visiting my childhood home to a warm summer walk along the port of St. Tropez as I used to do as an expat high school student in France.

But all good things must, eventually, come to anAlison endCavatore and, as we prepare for the impending cool-down back in Washington, DC, I’m proud to present you with the September/October issue of Global Living.

As usual, our talented writers have been incredibly busy traveling the globe and experiencing new countries and cultures. From Marla Cimini’s luxury adventure in Alaska on board a 232-foot ‘Un-Cruise’ (p. 24) to Anne O’Connell’s exploration of the hottest beach clubs in Phuket, Thailand (p. 39), and from Anisha Shah’s travels to Guatemala (p. 28) and Myanmar (p. 20) to Carolyne Kauser-Abbott’s trip through Palm Springs, California (p. 34), our writers have done it all. And often the key to a great travel experience is knowing where to stay, which is why our talented team have scoped out some of the most luxurious hotels and resorts, including La Residencia in

Mallorca (p. 55), the Hotel Plaza Athenee Paris (p. 42) and the five-star Peninsula, Shanghai (p. 46), among others.

As expected, there were also plenty of exclusive events happening over the past few months, and we’re happy to be able to give you a glimpse into two of the hottest celebrations: The Global Party (p. 11), which took place in June and brought together 360,000 guests in 120+ cities around the world at 360 exclusive venues – all to raise awareness and money for 360+ local children’s charities; and the Seven Star Global Luxury Award ceremony (p. 13), which was held at the Villa Padierna Palace Hotel in Marbella, Spain.

So sit back, relax and enjoy the remaining sounds of summer as we look forward to a new season. Be sure to follow us on Twitter (@GlobalLivingMag) and Facebook for all the latest travel and lifestyle news from around the globe!

And, as always, KEEP TRAVELING.

Christian Dior in St. Tropez, France. (Twitter: @Dior)

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Global Living Magazine

Editor's Social Cor

ner

Join us on Twitter @GlobalLivingMag or @AlisonCavatore

Alison Cavatore Founder, CEO & Editor-in-Chief, Global Living Magazine

INSIDER ACCESS: Alison's travel moments captured on Instagram.

Heritage Turkey burger and Duck Fat Fries at Bourbon Steak.

(Twitter: @BourbonSteakDC and @FSWashington)

A beautiful view arriving by plane in Washington, DC.

The lobby of The St. Regis Washington, DC Hotel.

(Twitter: @StRegisDC)

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INSIDE GLOBAL LIVING contents

September/October 2013

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46 4 Letter from the Editor Alison Cavatore

7 Contributors

On the Cover:

48 hours in palm springs The Viceroy Hotel lobby

Image Courtesy of The Viceroy Palm Springs

Meet our talented team from around the world.

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GLOBAL STYLE

9 Faraone Mennella

Jetsetter fashion and accessories from top global brands.

GLOBAL EVENTS

11 Seven star global

luxury award ceremony June 28, 2013: The Villa Padierna Palace Hotel in Marbella, Spain

13 The global party

June 27-29, 2013: Exclusive venues in 120+ cities around the world.

TRAVEL

15 vietnam

Ana Mandara Villa Dalat: A hillside hideaway in the Central Highlands of Vietnam.

16 curaรงao

A taste of Dutch culture on the Caribbean island of Curaรงao.

20 myanmar

Top 15 Myanmar highlights.

24 alaska

Alaska cruise via Un-Cruise

28 guatemala

Discovering the mysterious Mayan marvel of Guatemala.

34 palm Springs

Cover Story: Rat pack escape to Palm Springs, California.

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34 37 St. Croix

A touch of glamor, a dash of spice, a splash of rum.

39 Phuket, Thailand

Thailand Beach Clubs, Phuket.

42 hotel plaza athenee Paris

Celebrating the hotel's 100-year anniversary in style.

46 the peninsula shanghai Reliving old Shangahi in an ultraluxe setting.

52 the inn by the sea

Maine's oceanfront, five-acre luxury resort.

55 La Residencia

Mallorca's exquisite luxury hotel.

58 Book reviews: tough topics

Jo Parfitt's ongoing column recommending the best books for expats.

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GLOBAL CONTRIBUTORS Meet our talented team

Carolyn Pearson

Carolyn Pearson is a U.K.-based freelance writer and industry expert on business travel for women.

She is also CEO and Founder of www.maiden-voyage.com, an awardwinning global network designed to make business travel both safe and social for professional women.

Carolyn has a background in technology, primarily focused on both travel and media. Her work has taken her throughout Europe, the U.S. and India, and she has lived and worked in both the Netherlands and Australia.

As a result, Carolyn speaks fluent Dutch and also some French. Contact her via email at Carolyn@maidenvoyage.org or follow her on Twitter at @Maiden_Voyage.

Jessica Benavides Canepa

Jessica is a freelance travel and lifestyle writer focusing primarily on the luxury market worldwide. A previous work experience as the commercial director for a highend travel company affords her a unique insider perspective when querying publications. Her most recent work has been featured in National Geographic Traveler magazine; CNN Travel; Jetsetter; and BBC Travel; among others.

Additionally, as a copywriter, she has garnered a wealth of experience writing for luxury property and fashion websites. Currently residing in Sweden, following successive years in Shanghai and Barcelona, Jessica's next port-of-call is the breathtaking south of France where she hopes to continue her quest to discover the world. Read about her travel adventures at www.jbcanepa.com or follow her on Twitter at @jbcanepa.

Damon M. Banks

With a dynamic fifteen-year history of working with a diverse collection of projects and assignments, Damon is able to provide his expertise and services to clients by seamlessly merging the worlds of writing, social media, marketing and promotion. He balances his work at DMB Public Relations (www.dmbpublicrelations.com) with freelance consulting, while also serving as editorial contributor and industry expert to a variety of international travel, tourism, hospitality and luxury lifestyle publications. Connect with Damon directly at DamonBanks.com.

Marla Cimini

As a journalist with a passion for travel, music and culinary adventures, Marla has written for many national and regional publications, on topics ranging from exotic Tahitian getaways, to wine trails in Argentina and zesty garden cocktails. Marla is the co-author of the book, A Century of Hospitality: 1910 – 2010 (McNeill publishing), which focuses on the history of the hotel industry. Her work has also appeared in Destination Weddings and Honeymoons; Lodging Magazine; The Courier Post; USA Today online; Uptown; and The Philadelphia Business Journal; among others. When not globetrotting (or searching for the perfect wine to complement chocolate-covered pretzels), she can be found rocking out with her musician husband, Chris, at their home in New Jersey. Visit Marla’s website at www.marlacimini.com and follow her on Twitter at @MarlaCimini.

Jo Parfitt

images provided by each contributor

Cedric Damour

Founder of the luxury blog ‘The Parisian Eye’ (www.theparisianeye.com), Cedric Damour is a PR specialist in the IT industry. Currently based in Paris, Cedric balances his professional life with his blog, writing about his passions: luxury, travel and hospitality, jewelry, fashion, beauty and gastronomy – the arts of living as a whole. A true socialite, Cedric attends the most exclusive events in Paris in order to share the latest trends with the readers of TheParisianEye.com. If you don't find him attending a social gathering, Cedric is probably traveling in London, Los Angeles, Morocco and Switzerland, or in another exotic destination! Follow Cedric on Twitter at @TheParisianEye.

Sherry Amatenstein

In addition to being an inveterate traveler and longtime travel writer, Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is the author of three books, including The Complete Marriage Counselor: Relationship-saving Advice from America’s Top 50+ Couples Therapists.

She is frequently called upon to give love advice on many national radio and TV programs, including the Today Show, Early Show, Inside Edition, GMA Live, CBS News, VH1, BBC, and Good Day New York. Sherry worked for many years as a magazine editor and journalist and is an adjunct professor teaching magazine journalism at the New School for Social Research, and at New York University. Her website is www.marriedfaq.com.

Jo Parfitt has published 26 nonfiction books, an anthology of poetry called A Moving Landscape, and a novel called Sunshine Soup.

She is a journalist, teacher, editor and publisher who also mentors others who want to write and publish books and articles. Jo has lived in Dubai, Oman and Norway, and is now in the Netherlands.

Living and working overseas has made her the mentor and publisher of choice for countless expat writers at Summertime Publishing.

All of her expat titles can be seen at www.expatbookshop.com. Pick up a free report on ‘How to Write Your Life Story – the Inside Secrets’ at www.joparfitt.com/freereport. Jo also leads weeklong residential writing courses in Tuscany on how to write life stories. More information can be found at www.watermill.net.

Shirley Agudo

Assistant Editor Shirley Agudo is an American author, editor and photographer based in the Netherlands. She is the author/ photographer of five books: Bicycle Mania Holland (www.bicycle-mania. nl); Fodor’s Holland; Hot Pink; Network Your Way to Success and Here’s Holland (www.heresholland.com). As a documentary photographer, she is also the founder of the Amsterdam Street Photographers’ collective.

Along with Street Photography Workshops, she leads regular Photo Walks in Amsterdam. For more information, contact Shirley directly at: shirleyagudo@gmail.com. Follow Global Living Magazine 7 her on Twitter at @BicycleMania.

GLOBAL CONTRIBUTORS Meet our talented team

Candace M. Boggan

Candace Boggan is a career coach, travel and leisure industry professional, and business consultant. She holds an MBA in marketing and is a Certified Emotional Intelligence Trainer. Candace has been involved in tourism since 2007, including partnership with an online travel agency, and an HR contract with a U.K.-based yacht company.

As an avid traveler, she's also had the liberty to traverse the globe and connect with numerous cultures and business professionals. She has a flair for adventure and relishes the opportunity to discover new territories and capture stunning photos from around the world.

The savvy traveler has compiled a collection of experiences that have led her to become a freelance writer and blogger. Candace delights in spending time with family and friends, and is passionate about supporting domestic and global ministries. Follow her escapades at www.candaceboggan.com as well as on Twitter at @BogganC.

Anne O'Connell

Author, freelance writer and social media consultant Anne O’Connell has been an expat since 1993 when she and her husband left Canada and moved to Fort Lauderdale, Florida, then to Dubai in 2007 and on to Thailand in 2011. O’Connell is a regular contributor to Global Living magazine and Expat Focus. She is also the author of @Home in Dubai…

Getting Connected Online and on the Ground; 10 Steps to a Successful PR Campaign – a Do-it-Yourself Guide for Authors; and Mental Pause, her first novel, a 2013 Independent Publisher Book Award winner. O’Connell grew up in Halifax, Nova Scotia and has a bachelor of public relations from Mount St. Vincent University. For more information, visit her website at www.anne-oconnell.com.

Anisha Shah

Anisha Shah is a BBC born-and-raised broadcast journalist. Her career highlight is TV news reporting on the London 2012 Olympic Games.

An incessant traveler, Anisha has written for leading international publications from Asia to the Channel Islands. Her niche is luxury and emerging destinations, as well as conflict zones, stemming from her childhood dream of becoming a war reporter. This has seen her choose unusual destinations: Bahrain, Kuwait, Beirut and Colombo. Alongside Jordan, Mustique, Brazil, Peru, Galapagos and Switzerland, these have been her favorites. The year 2013 sees inspirational and unique travels through Myanmar, Ethiopia, Central America, Norway, New York, Portugal and the Seychelles … for starters. Having recently decided to document her real-time travels, Anisha is editor of ‘A Niche World' at www.ani-shah.com where she writes frankly about her immersive travels. You can follow her on Twitter at @anishahbbc or Facebook at ‘A Niche World’.

Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop nearby, Carolyne is living proof that there is no such thing as a single career anymore. She began her working life as an equity stock trader and then moved to commercial real estate and project management.

Now, she is dabbling in the world of freelance writing, blogging and social media. In 2010, Carolyne convinced her husband and Labrador that a few months in France would be fun; they stayed for thirteen.

Currently, they split their time between southern France and Canmore in the Canadian Rockies.

At home or on the road, she writes a food and travel blog, ‘Ginger and Nutmeg’ (www.gingerandnutmeg.com), and ‘Nutmeg’ on Twitter at @gingerandnutmeg. She also recently launched a travel app called Edible Heritage (www.edibleheritage.com).

BE A PART OF GLOBAL LIVING MAGAZINE

Nga Hoang

Apple Gidley

Apple Gidley, a freelance writer and author of Expat Life Slice by Slice, has traveled extensively and is a seasoned expatriate, having started her nomadic life at a month old in West Africa. She has lived and worked in Nigeria, England, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, Papua New Guinea, the Netherlands, Trinidad and Tobago, Thailand, Scotland, Equatorial Guinea and the USA. Apple currently lives in Houston, Texas.

Read her blog at www.my.telegraph. co.uk/applegidley or visit her website 8 Global Living Magazine at www.expatapple.com.

Bitten by the storytelling bug at an early age, Hanoi-born freelance writer Nga Hoang has evolved from an avid listener of her tailorgrandfather's exotic tales to a wandering travel writer. Living in a city in transition, she enjoys the privilege of making Hanoi a launch pad for her writing career. She writes for a number of international titles, including Travel + Leisure; Lonely Planet Magazine Asia; Cuisine Magazine, and more. When not on assignment, she enjoys hiding herself away at a street cafe to linger over a strong black brew and watch the relentless swarm of motorbikes, sleek new cars and hawkers weave through streets until the sunlight fades.

We are always looking for experienced, well-traveled writers and photographers and we want to hear from you, our readers. Contact us now about opportunities and visit us online at GlobalLivingMagazine.com.

Follow us:

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Additional words and photos credited where applicable. Disclaimer: The views expressed by our contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of Global Living magazine, its management or owners. Global Living has not verified the accuracy or completeness of the content of the submission but has relied on the warranty of the creator as to these factors. Please address any comments directly to the creator.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied by any method without the written permission from the publishing company. Global Media Partners LLC, and all those associated with this publication assume no financial responsibility for any misinformation or typographical errors in advertisements and make no claims as to their promises or guarantees, products or services.

images provided by each contributor

If you are interested in contributing to Global Living, please contact our Editor-in-Chief, Alison Cavatore, at: Alison@GlobalLivingMagazine.com.

GLOBAL STYLE

Jetsetter fashion and accessories

Faraone Mennella

by R.F.M.A.S.

Founded in 2001 by Napoli-born childhood friends Roberto Faraone Mennella and Amedeo Scognamiglio, Faraone Mennella by R.F.M.A.S is a bold and sophisticated brand of fine jewelry. Featuring exquisite collections inspired from traditional Italian heritage, Faraone Mennella expands from the ‘classic’ jewels to everyday wear to the most exceptional one-of-a-kind couture pieces.

Fueling pop culture and fashion society, the designers continue to anticipate new trends while embracing classical beauty. Over the years, the designing duo have created iconic pieces for movies like The Devil Wears Prada, Sex & the City, Wall Street, It’s Complicated, When in Vegas and TV shows such as Will & Grace, Sex & The City and Lipstick Jungle. Celebrity fans and devotees of the Italian designers’ creations include Oprah Winfrey, Rachel Welch, Kim Cattrall, Patricia Field, Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Aniston, Katherine Heigl, Brooke Shields, Carine Roitfeld, Nina Griscom, Olivia Chantecaille, Linda Fargo, Giovanna Battaglia and more. Check out all of Faraone Mennella’s stunning collections at FaraoneMennella.com.

GALA RING

18 kt yellow gold rubylite and diamond ring. $49,000.00

STELLA HOOPS

image courtesy of Faraone Mennella R.F.M.A.S. Group

18 kt yellow gold and pave diamond earrings. $7,240.00

CAGE PENDANT LARGE

18 kt yellow gold and diamond large pendant. $13,800.00

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Visit www.faraonemennella.com for more information.

ROYAL EARRINGS

Royal drop-shape pave diamond earrings with gray/ blue tourmaline set 18 kt white gold. $88,200.00

NODI BRACELET

Available in 18 kt rose and yellow gold with brown, champagne and white diamonds. $16,350.00

WAVE EARRINGS

18 kt yellow gold and peridot earrings. $3,700.00

TUKA TUKA NECKLACE

18 kt yellow gold with diamond pave dangling oval sphere. $41,000.00

CAGE RING

18 kt yellow gold and diamond ring. $12,560.00

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image courtesy of Faraone Mennella R.F.M.A.S. Group

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GLOBAL EVENTS

events happening around the world

photography by Kurt Arbter | www.sevenstaraward.com

location: Marbella, spain

Seven Star Global Luxury Awards Ceremony

vv

The Seven Star Global Luxury Awards ceremony took place on June 28, 2013 at the Villa Padierna Palace Hotel in Marbella, Spain. An impressive number of this year’s winners were able to be present and were honored with the Signum Virtutis – the seal of excellence – that was bestowed upon them by the Seven Star Global Luxury Awards panel. event review by damon m. banks

Gian Luigi Epis and Ece Vahapoglu Global Living Magazine

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Kevin Brett

Prince Max Della Torre & Tasso and David Rabaud

Seven Star Global Luxury Award

Ece Vahapoglu Prince Max Della Torre & Tasso and H.E. Ahmed Adeeb Abdul Gafoor

This year’s guests included Magister Michael Spalek (Austria’s Authority of the Ministry of Economy & Tourism), H.E. Ahmed Adeeb Abdul Gafoor (Maldives’ Minister of Tourism), the Della Torre e Tasso family, Dona Alicia de Villapadierna and Mrs. Ijlal Kastal Erdogan (Director of the Turkish Tourism Office).

A notable collection of winners, press, media, government ministers and key CEOs and managers from the travel, tourism, hospitality and lifestyle industries throughout the world were present for this very festive occasion. The evening was hosted flawlessly by Ms. Ece Vahapoglu, and in addition to honoring this prestigious list of winners, ENIQUA wowed the audience with their stunning fashion show.

Another highlight was the Seven Star Abbas Behbehani Award for Excellence and Innovation in Luxury Technology given to the exquisite Antoine Martin ‘Slow Runner’ watch.

This Award was a proud moment for Mr. Bruno Jufer, CEO of Antoine Martin, as it is a direct selection by Mr. Behbehani, a member of the Seven Star Luxury Panel and haute horologerie extraordinaire.

H.E. Ahmed Adeeb Abdul Gafoor, The Minister of Tourism of Maldives, was the recipient of the Seven Star Global Luxury Award special achievement award for “outstanding achievement in tourism for having maintained the flow of tourism to the Maldives through extraordinary times and having successfully carried the country through a major recession.”

With such an amazing inaugural event, there will certainly be even more nominees in 2014, and the team at Global Living magazine is excited to see this prestigious award continue to build momentum and to honor these exclusive travel, tourism and hospitality lifestyle brands. Visit www.sevenstaraward.com for more information.

Fredrik Reinisch and Khalil El-Mouelhy Seven Star Global Luxury Award winners

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Bruno Jufer and guests Shafiq Nasiruddin and Ece Vahapoglu

Eniqua Fashion Show

photography by Kurt Arbter | www.sevenstaraward.com

Managing director of Sixt's Spanish operations, Estanislao de Mata Perez, with Turkish media personality and author Ece Vahapoglu (MC and presenter of Seven Star Global Luxury Award)

location: worldwide

Photography courtesy of The Global Party

The Global Party 2013 From June 27 and 29, 2013 the world's elite will gathered in the most luxurious venues, in 120+ cities around the world to celebrate The Global Party. The Global Party (inspired by 360째) is the largest private VIP charity party in the world, spanning the globe in support of worthy causes both large and small. event review by Carolyn Pearson

The Global Party, London Global Living Magazine

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The Global Party at Li-Bar, Panama

Kam and Roya Babaee

The Global Party at BESO, Sofia, Bulgaria

The Global Party 2013

Preeya Kaladis and Sam Vallance

David Johnstone and Tom Burgess

Hofit Golan

Simon Berry Geeves and Alexandra Bailey

14Bryer Global Tania (right) Living Magazine

The Global Party, London

Photography courtesy of The Global Party

Tony and Sarah Pidgley

The world’s largest worldwide private party in aid of hundreds of local children’s charities took place between June 27 – 30, 2013. An exclusive VIP dinner and charity auction held at London's Savoy hotel on June 26 marked the launch of the Global Party 2013, raising over $300,000 for the Mayor’s Fund for London. The party was inspired by 360°.

Thousands of the world’s elite from the sectors of fashion, arts, media and society attended parties at over 360 venues in over 120 cities around the world, in order to help raise awareness and money for over 360 local children’s charities as well as The Global Charity Trust. Each of the parties took place in the world’s most luxurious venues, including stunning private residences, premium nightclubs, private members’ clubs and 5-star hotels. The Li-Bar in Panama, Fable in Jakarta and CASH in Athens were just some of the venues that hosted this spectacular event.

Due to the overwhelming success of the Global Party 2013, the event will be repeated in May 2014. Visit www.theglobalparty.com for more information.

GLOBAL TRAVEL

explorations from around the world

Ana Mandara Villa Dalat

Vietnam written by NGA HOANG photography by LIEM TRAN

With its French colonial villa complex, hillside location and year-round crisp air, Ana Mandara Villa Dalat is a one-of-a-kind hideaway in the Central Highlands of Vietnam.

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photography by Liem Tran

na Mandara Villa Dalat is perched strategically on a small, forested hill dotted with towering pine trees and grassy, flower-speckled slopes. It has 15 villas all spread out over manicured terrain. Originally built by French colonists between the 1920s and 1930s, these old villas were later lovingly renovated into contemporary accommodation for those who hanker after history and style.

My experience began after a quick check-in, when a buggy was sent to take me to Villa 11, a two-storey chalet that includes two villa rooms, one villa suite and a room tailored towards honeymooners. As soon as I stepped inside, I felt as if I was in a stand-alone villa instead of merely a room. There is a communal area adjoining the individual rooms in which you can kick back on the sofa and read or play chess.

The room is styled after a French chateau, with polished timber dominating the space. It is outfitted in shades of cream and is replete with antique furniture. The room comes equipped with an open, central fireplace, a canopied king-size four-poster bed with a choice of pillows, and a period bathroom complete with double sinks and a large claw-foot tub with a separate showerhead. Little has changed since the villas were built. Everything – its electrical

switches, concrete railings, old ceiling fans, shuttered windows and the few cracked floor tiles – screams authenticity. It felt every bit like stepping into a time warp.

The next morning, I loved waking up to the sound of birds and the smell of fresh air, wood and flowers.

Breakfast was served on a terrace overlooking the Dalat city with locally-sourced products on offer, such as yogurt and jam. Later, dinner was served in a beautifully designed restaurant with a staircase winding up to the attic, where a small winery is used for tasting sessions and intimate dining.

My stay at Ana Mandara Villa Data was truly topped off at the end, however, when I was offered a three-hour scenic ride around the city on a 1940’s convertible roadster, which gained some looks of amazement from assorted passers-by.

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A Taste of Dutch Culture

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uraçao

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by Candace boggan

he Caribbean island of Curaçao features 35 beaches and an eclectic mix of history and culture. The capital city of Willemstad is a UNESCO World Heritage site with distinctive architecture, museums, monuments and world-class shopping. In addition to the island’s natural beauty, pristine dive sites and snorkeling at secluded beaches, Curaçao has a vast selection of restaurants that feature a mix of international and local cuisines.

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photography courtesy of Curacao Tourist Board

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Curaçao is more than just a moment back in time; it is a well-preserved history book leaping off the shelf. time (travel tip: the tour guide was worth the extra fee). He or she will narrate and provide chilling facts that will startle the strongest of minds. This was by far one of the most graphic displays of slave memorabilia and facts that I have witnessed throughout my travels. For the history buff, you will find it both eerie and amazing at the same time.

On the other side of The Swinging Old Lady, Punda appears as more of the metropolis of the two, with several restaurants, museums, a hopping tour desk and open markets. Cruise ship passengers pour in during planned windows each time of the year. There are some fantastic deals at native shops and other bargains on rare souvenirs. Punda is also home to the world’s oldest Jewish synagogue in the Western Hemisphere: the Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue. This is a simply stunning find located on an island drenched

sang along to the sounds of many American tunes played over the speakers. I also relished in the moment as I listened to locals speak their native Papiamentu language. It is also not uncommon to hear Dutch or even Spanish spoken throughout the island, but to my surprise, many of the locals spoke English quite well. Dutch, however, is the primary language spoken in schools and most government offices.

For the food fanatic like myself, prepare your taste buds for an exquisite explosion of ethnic foods. You will find Dutch, Spanish, Creole, Indonesian and local delights throughout the island. I assure you, your palate will not be disappointed. If you are looking for an authentic Dutch experience with a twist, Curaçao is the place to be. For the exotic, historic and adventurous holiday, this is one to remember. photography courtesy of Curacao Tourist Board

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uraçao is part of the ABC Islands: Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao, the three western-most islands of the Leeward Antilles in the Caribbean. If you are looking for an unforgettable experience, I challenge you to consider visiting this leg of the triangle.

A remarkable mixture of cultures awaits you as the island offers a wide variety to meet the taste of each traveler. As the owner of the world’s only swinging bridge, Curaçao is separated by none other than the Queen Emma Bridge, also known as The Swinging Old Lady. This wooden, floating, royal lady of Willemstad connects Otrobanda to Punda.

Otrobanda is a Dutch colony that has been transformed into a historic treasure. There are a few restaurants and numerous shopping boutiques for all to enjoy on this side of the bridge, though filled more with locals than tourists. There is also a fascinating museum located on this side called the Kura Hulanda that features a rare glimpse into the Dutch slave trade. After paying to enter, you can request a tour guide for an additional fee to accompany you on the journey back in

in rich history. The floors are sand and original architecture surrounds each visitor from beginning to end. Service is still held regularly and visitors are welcome to attend.

There is also an adjoining museum located on the same grounds as the synagogue, full of remnants of times past. This synagogue was like opening a book on Jewish-Dutch history as pages burst forth alive. Original pews fill the room while ancient fixtures grace the building throughout.

Curaçao is more than just a moment back in time; it is a well-preserved history book leaping off the shelf. Colorful buildings of authentic Dutch architecture can be seen from miles away. It’s like witnessing a postcard with each step. Tours of all sorts and adventures are available for the curious of mind. An aloeplant, aquarium and ancient Hato Caves made from limestone formations and waterfalls await you. Iguanas roam the island freely and live among residents. Don’t be alarmed though, I didn’t experience any issues with any trying to retreat back to the resort with me.

While there, I stayed at the Hilton Curaçao.

I enjoyed the hotel’s poolside bar and grill as I

photography courtesy of Curacao Touristby Board images courtesy Il Piatto; photography Dough Merriam

Matt Yohalem Chef and owner at Il Piatto

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Top 15

MYANMAR HIGHLIGHTS

BEGUILING BURMESE DAYS The simplicity and earthiness of Myanmar people is a reflection of the country. While the final great frontier may rapidly be unraveling to tourism, it passionately retains the core of what makes it charming: genuine naivety to the outside world. People are instinctively friendly and genuinely warm-hearted. Traveling solo on a luxury itinerary for three weeks with a private guide, I experience unique and everlasting moments of Myanmar beauty. Buddhist values run deep through the veins of the country, evident in the people of the land.

by ANISHA SHAH YANGON BEGINNINGS The capital and international hub could easily be misunderstood.

Fusing a rough-edged aesthetic in some corners while gated mansions appear so grand, Yangon is a multicultural melting pot in which decades of convoluted history have added European flavor to an Asian recipe. With complexity comes diversity; this is true of the capital. Urban street stalls and markets sit side-by-side with designer boutiques making up a patchwork-quilt center.

EXPLORE SHWEDAGON PAGODA AT SUNSET

I stand inside what feels like the center of the universe. It is the most revered shrine in the Buddhist world. An enticing peace prevails – a harmonious cacophony of pagodas, people and prayer. Bells toll all around, teasing my eardrum from near and far, displacing my already hazy sense of place. Footsteps shuffle across the vast complex, murmurs of friends and family echo past, flashing vibrant bursts of fresh exotic flowers for offerings. Combined with the heady scent of incense in the air, I’m transported to another era in another world.

Statuesque stupas tower above me, glistening an array of deep golden shades – a majestic parade of sunset reflections in the capital.

As another day sinks into the horizon, the city is convened here in collective prayer. Legends are central to Buddhist beliefs. Here, at what legend hails as the world’s oldest historical pagoda, are housed relics of the past four Buddhas, including eight strands of hair of Gautam Buddha, most widely associated with the religion.

Difficult to imagine what it has endured, as it stands proud now, Shwedagon has conquered earthquakes, half a century of harsh military rule and disrepair. Today, among gleaming golden spires and gargantuan Buddha statues, a deep spirituality and calling to seek inward create a lasting legacy.

Perched on Singutarra Hill, the sweeping city views are tinted a dusk shade of amber. The base of the stupa was most famously known, in 1946, for General Aung San’s demand for independence.

More than four decades later, it became the exact spot in which his daughter, Aung San Suu Kyi, demanded democracy.

Reminiscing in a taxi, driving through the streets of Yangon by night, my driver describes the surge of hope in the air. People are embracing the newfound freedom and change. With sanctions being lifted constantly, foreign investment is pouring in. Recently, Hilton hotels became the first international chain to announce investment. Apple, Unilever and Microsoft are pouring in billions.

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EAT LOCAL AT A NIGHT FOOD MARKET

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Culinary delights are extensive in an astronomical range of gastronomy. Amid the array of pricey restaurants overflowing with wealthy expats, the local eateries are the undiscovered talent.

These unrefined, unpolished and relatively unknown underdogs gleam through their star-studded neighbors, as the best value for the most delicious and authentic cuisine.

Head to a night market for roadside eateries plating up a true taste of Myanmar. Hundreds of matchbox-sized food stalls spill onto the streets with rickety plastic chairs and tables; it’s a tea party for locals. The boundaries of each establishment blend into one another, creating one huge makeshift restaurant, merging into an entire neighborhood. Rugby-ball-sized papaya and saffron mangoes are spliced open on display – a catwalk parade of tastebud-tingling sensations. I munch my way through a treasure trove of delectable fancies, unwittingly showing off my nonchalant greed.

HOP ON A CITY TRAIN

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Myanmar’s infrastructure of roads and rail is about to undergo a massive facelift. With major investment from the Orient, plans are in place to upgrade the entire rail network. I hop on at Yangon Central, Myanmar’s largest station, initially a Victorian building built by the British but later rebuilt after WWII bombing.

On board, simplistic and worn interiors are joyfully reflective of the Myanmar of a bygone era. Hard wooden benches flank either side, open windows provide the ‘air conditioning’, and street-vendors offer the refreshments by selling platters of tea and fruits atop their heads.

Taking in the city sights by rail almost feels secretive as the train snakes through side streets, offering raw, unedited aspects of Myanmar life. People cross the tracks, the homeless sleep alongside, and the tin-roofed huts weave in and out of vision; this is Yangon.

photography by Anisha Shah

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WHERE TO STAY: LIVE LUXURIOUSLY IN YANGON The Savoy, Strand and the Orient-Express Governor’s Residence hotels come with hefty price tags. Discerning travelers seeking decadence and exclusivity will not be disappointed. Afternoon tea is a delight. The Strand features an art gallery not to be missed, especially for a unique keepsake guaranteed to retain – if not increase in – value.

MEET THE KAREN TRIBESWOMEN

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She’s weaving on a stool in the corner of a makeshift house on stilts in the heart of the fishermen’s village. On closer inspection, I see that she bears the proud traditions of her forefathers. Twenty solid brass coils engulf her neck, stacked from her collarbone to her chin. She explains that it’s considered a sign of beauty. The coils are never removed and come with a cushion to facilitate sleep.

It’s a tribal tradition that has been photographed from the turn of the 19th century. But when I ask about her granddaughters, another side emerges as she feels that the coils symbolize a lack of education. Thus, she encourages them to educate themselves and reject the brass coil tradition. She wants them to break free from the shackles of her ancestors. A true tradition may soon be lost forever.

INLE LAKE Inle Lake is a major Myanmar highlight. Sitting at water level on a private longboat, sailing through the infinite placid pool of serenity, complete stillness abounds. It’s the perfect antidote to a busy life.

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WATCH THE INTHA FISHERMEN

Intermittently, gentle ripples intersperse the soothing tranquility of Inle Lake, as an Intha fisherman rows silently past. Ripples are the only indication of movement. The fishermen are like carved statues, light as dancers, as they float atop the edge of the wooden boat, standing only on one tiptoe, the other leg wrapped around an oar steering through the waters, hands gripped to a fishing net.

They live in and around the lake on floating villages in houses built on stilts, tending to floating gardens of agricultural land.

photography by Anisha Shah

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BROWSE AN AUTHENTIC LAKESIDE MARKET

Finding the right market is crucial to unlocking a truly authentic feast for all the senses. An immersive, beautiful and overwhelming experience, local markets here are exquisite. Many are fast becoming flea markets for tourists, however. It’s only by word of mouth on the morning I’m due to leave Inle that I hear about a local fresh goods market.

The beauty of having a private guide accompany my entire three weeks in Myanmar is being able to tailor my trip as I travel, while always having a local fount of knowledge, a map and a translator.

As we disembark from the boat, maroon-clad Buddhist monks are heading towards the market. We follow. Crossing paths are elderly Myanmar ladies nearly doubled over with goods on their backs.

The ladies are draped in traditional ‘Lyungi’ long skirts in soft beautiful silks. Myanmar ladies sway beautifully, sashaying their hips in a very womanly manner. It’s an elegant and graceful vision.

Walking along dusty tracks through a village and forest, we approach a large dusty piazza on the fringes of the lake. Market morning is bustling as families tuck into breakfast while selling their wares. Meats, fish, fruit and vegetables are laid out, while plastic strapping shelters from the blazing sun. The soaring heat creates a milky haze, but a refreshing breeze fans across the lake.

I beeline into the center of the color and activity, drifting about and giggling with the locals, watching them interact and barter … and even offer me free fruits and sweets to try. The most amazing part is that there isn’t another traveler in sight. Being in such an authentic, working market proves to be my cultural highlight of Inle Lake.

WATCH MONKS AT A MONASTERY

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Nyaung Shwe is the Gateway to Inle Lake. In this charming town, Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery is a most memorable stop. One of the country’s oldest working teakwood monasteries, it’s renowned for its iconic oval windows. I’m led into a room in which young boys with shaved heads and saffron robes read and write, cross-legged, on the floor in silence. I’m moved, knowing that these young boys are all far from home – united by religion.

Attached to the monastery is an intriguing temple carved into thousands of wall niches, each housing a miniature Buddha statue.

When I visit, a young boy is sleeping on the floor, taking refuge in the temple. My guide says he may have left home.

WHERE TO STAY: SPACIOUS OVERWATER LAKE VILLAS My lakeside residence is the most luxurious overwater villa on stilts. It’s the Maldives in a soulful setting. Aureum Palace & Spa is the name most synonymous with luxury in the country. Featuring lake-facing king-sized beds and a lakefront terrace, it’s ideal for sundowners. And the sunsets are scorching spectacles.

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KALAW Despite growing visitor numbers, it’s quite easy to escape into the true essence of Myanmar. A few hours drive from Inle, the landscape transforms.

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TREK TO REMOTE HILL-TRIBES

Despite being a relative non-trekker, I opt for a half-day trek to meet a hill-tribe known as ‘PaO’. The hilly pastures, jagged mountains and jade-green valleys are exquisite. As the sun awakens, I walk into a cloud of vivid dancing butterflies. The zesty essence of fresh oranges strikes the back of my throat as orchards surround some of the path. Dragonflies, deeply embellished in bold rich colors, flutter past my nose, before darting high and spinning circles.

There’s no sound here in the midst of the wilderness but that of loose rocks straying under my stride, making an unsteady ascent.

The surrounding bamboo forest is home to an intimidating roster of wildlife, including snakes, monkeys and poisonous spiders. I spot gigantic spun webs in the trees. A gentle breeze flows through the narrow canyons, gathering momentum as it twists and turns, snaking curvaceous mountain bends and steep inclines to the hilltop village, where it filters as a refreshing and well-deserved essence.

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GATECRASH A VILLAGE WEDDING!

Spirits soar at the village with talk of a wedding! On the trail of activity, my guide follows the faint sounds of bells and horns.

Passing homes that house several generations of families, separated only by a wooden partition, we’re immersed in local life. Glutinous rice dries on verandas on bamboo platters; open doors reveal basic means copper pots and pans are stacked outside homes; dogs roam, sniffing for traces of food.

On approach, the decibels increase. Children encircle a popsicle 5 treat for the day. Suddenly, two richly dressed stand, choosing their women usher me into the house to meet the bride! Thrust in front of her, I thank her and tell her she looks beautiful. Within seconds I’m one of the family. Encouraged into the house, the bride herself brings me food and drink. Her friends have gorgeous smiles and beautiful, glowing faces. My guide translates to say they think I’m beautiful.

Bedecked in jewelry, the bride is a stunning vision in colorful costume, with a belt of silver coins. The warmth and hospitality is overwhelming, and I’m moved to tears at the thought of leaving.

To watch an entire village come together, swap stories, laugh, cook and eat together, and open up their home to a complete stranger with such passionate feeling is simply incredible.

WHERE TO STAY: COOL MOUNTAIN OASIS Amara Mountain Resort takes its inspiration from a magical British summer garden. It’s a quintessential English countryside manor home with landscaped gardens and an allotment growing strawberries, lettuce and bountiful blossoms – all painting a fairytale palette. Picture-postcard villas are converted into spacious suites with a homey communal lounge complete with a library, for a lazy afternoon in the sunshine. Home-away-from-home, Amara dates from the British colonial times. It’s a hidden paradise and a true gem.

MANDALAY MAZE In stark contrast … color, confusion and chaos echo through the hazy rainbow of colonial buildings in this crazed city. Shanty stalls, screeching bazaars and palatial mansions are lined by laborers struggling at every turn. Mandalay’s congested cobbled streets, tea shops and herbal medicine stalls are heaving alongside jostling pedestrians, bicycles, honking cars, workers and people earning their livelihoods in the street.

THE WORLD’S LARGEST TEAKWOOD BRIDGE

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Breaking the monotony of Mandalay City’s breakneck speed, ‘U Bein’, a solid teakwood bridge, is an ancient oasis in nearby Amarapura. Stretching as far as the eye can see, the nearly one mile of teak posts, dating back to the 1800s, arches across the placid waters of Lake Taungthaman. Glimmers of rose-pink shimmer gliding across it in the sunlight. Buddhist nuns cross in pretty robes.

A leisurely stroll across this bridge is a test of one’s mettle, as the sides vanish to expose dizzying drops from the edge of the crooked boardwalk. Cozy treehouse-style seating areas are conveniently located at intervals to capture the surrounding vast green verdant fields and hazy horizon – the plateau interrupted by glistening pagodas and stupa spires for miles.

PRIVATE BOAT TO MINGUN

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The subject of Rudyard Kipling’s The Road to Mandalay, the Ayeyarwaddy River (Irrawaddy) is huge – and crucial to the country’s economy. To sail its waters is to understand the scale of the river and gain perspective about its role. Nomadic farm families live along it, arriving and leaving with the seasons.

My private boat is a beautiful wooden double-decker, replete with reclining chairs and fresh fruit, and a wonderful breeze on the top deck. On approach to Mingun, shacks and huts come into view. Children are playing and swimming on the sidelines. And from here, the famous unfinished pagoda with its giant bell appears, like a huge slab of unfinished rock. The bell remained incomplete after 1790, when an astrologer predicted that King Bodawpaya would die if construction were finished. Had it finished, it would have been the largest stupa in the world.

Mingun also has an artistic vibe with hundreds of tiny galleries lining the main street – some of which are internationally renowned.

WHERE TO STAY: MANDALAY Mandalay Hill Resort is the plushest property in the city. It’s grand, large and features acres of manicured grounds with fountains, courtyards and figurines. My executive-level suite is fit for royalty,

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photography by Anisha Shah

the entire sky ochre and fuschia, the intensity is mirrored in the water’s surface to create a passionate painting of fire. By night, the beauty is bewitching as bristling night skies loaded with starry constellations twinkle and glint reflections in the lake.

with views stretching across the city. I particularly enjoy the executive floor lounge for intimate breakfast and drinks. Situated next to Mandalay Hill, a stunning panoramic-sunset spot for lovers, my suite boasts the second best view in town.

BAGAN Spirituality, mystique and magic abound. The ancient city of Bagan basks in a spellbinding aura. At the heights of the watchtower adjoining my luxury hotel, Aureum Palace – the sole hotel 10 located in and amongst the stupas of the archaeological zone, Bagan’s breathtaking plains are awe-inspiring. Two thousand golden pagodas litter the 38.6-square-mile skyline like a string of prayer beads; their molten spires poke out of the vast terrain, photographing like an echocardiogram. Staggering external architecture combines with hollow relic chambers encasing gigantic Buddha statues, walls laden with faded paintings and inscriptions.

For explorative souls, Bagan is a fairytale playground. And the means of exploration are endless.

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BIKE, BULLOCK CART, HORSE CART

A traditional horse cart is the most authentic way to explore on the ground. The carriage passes locals who live in less-than grandiose encasements but couldn’t be richer in natural environment. By dusk, a gaggle of toothless elderly ladies lean against a crumbling wall, engrossed in chatter and waving their leathery hands in the air by way of expression. They erupt in a resounding chorus of hearty laughter interspersed with a choking cough – the residue 4v of a lifetime of Betel-leaf chewing.

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WHERE TO STAY: LUXURY INSIDE THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE Aureum Palace hotel, in Bagan, is the only hotel positioned within the protected archaeological zone. My lavish luxury villa directly faces two historical stupas across a lily pond. It’s surreal to be among the splendors. The luxury of an infinity pool looking out directly onto the pagodas further enhances the whimsy. At dawn, I arise early to wander over to the stupas and explore their chambers. As the sun rises, Buddha statues illuminate inside.

Although a deeply spiritual and slightly eerie experience alone in the relics, the myriad colors exude wondrous warmth.

NGAPALI BEACH An idyllic end to a fairytale Myanmar journey, Ngapali beach fuses the best of authenticity with a white-sand, palm-fringed beach.

Wild and rugged, this is the stuff of Robinson Crusoe tales. Local fruit-sellers and fishermen are a firm fixture.

LUXURIATE IN TRUE MYANMAR

I feel almost invisible as I recline in the stunning scenery while being treated to a beautiful display of local life on the shores of the Bay of Bengal. Relatively few tourists make it this far to Rakhine State, known better in the foreign press for its pockets of religious unrest. The value-for-money here is staggering, costing a fraction of what it would on any other world-class white beach on the planet.

WHERE TO STAY: WINDSWEPT BEACHFRONT PARADISE Ngapali Beach hotel is understated luxury at its finest. Blending into its environment with natural materials, it’s an oasis of minimalistic luxury. My beachfront villa is a dream. Floor-to-ceiling glass looks directly onto the white sands of the sweeping Bay of Bengal. With a perfectly intimate number of villas, privacy is the premium draw. The General Manager, Ulrich Morgenthaler, has a holistic approach, believing in the Feng Shui alignment of the deluxe property. I have to agree, it’s a happy place to be. Simplistic, organic and spiritually-themed, the spa is a rural retreat where I drift away with Asian influences during a two-hour full body massage.

INDULGE IN A PRIVATE DINNER ON THE BEACH

At dusk, I ride a bike to Pya-tha-Da temple, for a spectacular sunset. The smell of incense diffuses any mental distraction, soothing the soul upon stepping foot into this spine-tingling spiritual shrine. A gentle whistle hums; a warm breeze ripples through prayer flags – the hopes and dreams of a world of visitors.

Faded silver and rusty bronze bells ring out a haunting melody into the vast desert, and the slow hypnotic chanting of monks echoes in the distance in mesmerizing accord, each haunting decibel reverberating into the depths of the soul.

photography by Anisha Shah

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On my final evening, I’m treated to a surprise private candlelit meal on the beach. My beautiful waitress has handpicked flowers from the gardens and arranged them with candles and petals on the table. Lamplights dug into the sand illuminate my path under a star-filled night sky. Fresh grilled lobster in garlic butter sauce and a sumptuous chocolate fondant dessert end my night on a high.

Reflecting on an endorphin-inducing trip, it’s clear that despite the imminent modernity entering Myanmar, the country will long retain its essence of beauty, history and deep-rooted culture. For those willing to delve deeper, it will always be a hideaway haven.

WATCH THE SUNRISE BY HOT AIR BALLOON

The most astounding vistas are seen from a hot-air balloon.

Balloons Over Bagan provides the ultimate form of transport, hovering high above the nostalgia and romance of the city.

Panoramic views are simply dazzling. The fusion of hypnotic harmony, from high above, brings out overwhelming emotion.

In this terrain of many legends, chronicling fanciful parables, the fierce sense of a bygone era is captivating. This once-in-alifetime experience is the single best way to marvel at Bagan’s vivid exoticism.

Anisha traveled with Burma Travel Centre, a subsidiary of India Travel Centre, specialists in Asia. Tours include a private local guide throughout, internal travel, transfers and accommodation.

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Alaska

Cruise via Un-Cruise

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by Marla Cimini

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t 10 p.m. the sun was still shining brightly. Our small yacht was full of enthusiastic travelers relaxing in the lounge, sipping after-dinner cocktails and peering through binoculars at the glowing sky with the hope of spotting more humpback whales against the backdrop of the Alaskan glaciers.

Although our ship was guiding us through the calm waters of Juneau’s Inner passage, this trip did not involve a massive cruise liner…this was an ‘Un-Cruise’, an ocean adventure with a company created for those who wish to avoid traditional cruises that specialize in line dancing, all-day buffets and late night disco parties with rowdy partiers. Our ship, the newlyrefurbished 232-foot Safari Endeavor, featured 43 decently-

sized staterooms and suites for just 86 passengers, designed to comfortably accommodate couples, families and friends.

As an action-oriented cruise, fun outdoor activities are planned and encouraged, and passengers have the opportunity to participate in many levels of adventure as the boat winds its way from Juneau toward Glacier Bay National Park and then back up the coast. My friend and I had the unique experience of kayaking nearly every day, exploring the calm waters and lush natural landscape up close, both with small groups and on our own. As we were pushed off the ship’s state-of-the art kayak launching dock, we were instructed to stay in view of the Endeavor, and we felt very safe – so even when our rudder unexpectedly broke, the ship’s crew quickly came to

Safari Endeavour: photography courtesy of W. Kaehler

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So just when you think you are close enough to a glacier, the Un-Cruise gets you even closer, and we literally reached out and touched the foot-ball-sized mini icebergs floating past our skiffs and kayaks. captain and crew were just as excited as the rest of us, and the ship suddenly slowed down and veered toward land, giving everyone the chance to get a glimpse at the wildlife, snap photos or just silently gaze through binoculars.

On our trip, Mother Nature accommodated us as well, offering other unexpected surprises, such as clear, sunny, warm weather (which is almost unheard of for southern Alaska in June, as rain is considered the norm) and the brilliantly gorgeous super moon that rose above the glaciers (that is, when the sun finally when down) in the evening.

Meals were certainly a cut above average cruise fare, too. One of the best crowedpleasing dinners involved our plates being piled high with fresh, steamed Alaskan King Crabs that the boat picked up while we were anchored in Glacier Bay National Park. (Worth the trip in and of itself). We were even oh-sospoiled with our own pastry chef on board, who did not disappoint with the wonderful

traveling with a very international group, and sharing our cruise with other passengers from around the world – hailing from a variety of US states and as far away as South Africa and New Zealand. Although we did not have the option of attending big Broadway-style stage shows in the evening, we did partake in lively conversations with our new friends – people

Kayakers on Glacier Bay Park Ranger

Drinks at the bar on board

Bear with cubs

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array of delights she baked each day… from scones to croissants, we were powerless to her spell. (And we convinced ourselves that aggressive kayak paddling would burn off those calories.)

For those who desire pure luxury and real Alaskan exploration, this upscale sailing vessel feels private, yet casual, too. Fortunately, we were

who enjoy nature, traveling and exploring new corners of the globe.

Interesting and informative talks by experts are also a big part of this voyage, and passengers learn a lot of fascinating information along the way – from the Alaskan giant starfish that live in the Icy Straight to the habits of brown bears and mountain goats. On-board and off, we were treated to experiencing Alaska with a highly-skilled staff with years of expertise

bears: photography by Cameron Zegers; drinks: photography by Marla Cimini; kayakers: photography courtesy of Un-Cruise Adventures (InnerSea Discoveries LLC.)

our rescue and we paddled back to the boat without another mishap.

Specializing in intimate, off-the-beatenpath adventures, the Un-Cruise featured daily small boat tours for those who wished to have a leisurely afternoon, as well as super intense hikes, such as bushwhacks and glacial assaults for the brave-hearted. Still, for cruisers seeking a lackadaisical afternoon, it was just fine to stay aboard and relax with a massage, a soak in one of two hot tubs – or just enjoy wildlife-spotting from the deck … and without judgments from the rest of the passengers, either.

Sailing past the enormous glaciers is just part of the stunning scenery on this journey; breathtaking does not begin to describe this exploration. Experiencing a monstrous glacier from so close was not only intimidating, but also inspiring, and we were well aware what an amazing journey this was. So just when you think you are close enough to a glacier, the Un-Cruise gets you even closer, and we literally reached out and touched the football-sized mini icebergs floating past our skiffs and kayaks. One day, sea lions were nearly everywhere – perched atop some of the larger chunks, staring curiously at our amazed group as we made our way through the chilly waters and sat silently transfixed at the icy masses that completely dwarfed our craft.

An extra-added bonus to this cruise involved an air of spontaneity. I happened to be in the bridge the sunny afternoon that a bear and her cubs were spotted on a mountainside. The

attained by trekking the Alaskan landscape.

Some even had backgrounds in biology and geology, and were happy to share their extensive knowledge with us along the way. Their passion is undeniable; the staff obviously loves their jobs as much as they adore the rugged Alaskan wilderness, and are more than thrilled to share their excitement with the passengers on board.

To round out this luxurious trip, the crew members were extremely attentive, friendly and gracious, making it a point to learn every passenger’s name and do their best to provide a personal experience for everyone on board.

Un-Cruise offers a fleet of ships with various destinations, flexible itineraries and diverse styles, ranging from active to luxury. In addition to the Alaskan destination, this new cruise line offers small boat adventures in Mexico and Hawaii, and are available for charters as well.

stateroom: photography courtesy of Un-Cruise Adventures (InnerSea Discoveries LLC.)

Captain Stateroom

The ship’s captain even invited everyone to the bridge during the trip for a rare look at the navigational system.

And for those who enjoy a few cocktails in the evening: No worries! The cruise’s lounge comes complete with a fully-stocked open bar – 24 hours a day with, yes, premium liquor.

Our friendly bartender created a new specialty cocktail every night at happy hour (and I even had a surprise drink named for me on my birthday – made with tequila, amaretto and lime juice).

The Un-Cruise concept was created especially for those who wish to completely unplug, unwind and truly explore rugged nature at its best. Despite all the hiking, kayaking and slogging through the mud, I think the most challenging part of the trip was coming to grips with the fact that cell phone and WiFi availability would be nonexistent for nearly a week. Although I tried my best to embrace it as a refreshing change of pace, this was the only trip I have taken in years where everyone was completely disconnected for the entire time (which can really take some getting used to – for those of us who rely so much on our tech devices).

The Grand Hotel Cafe Buffet

And speaking of impulsive and unplanned … during the trip, my friend convinced the captain and cruise director to have a group polar bear dip on the last day of the cruise. Obviously not a scheduled activity, or mandatory, thankfully, it was a fun event with even the some of the crew participating with gusto. By then, we had made friends with most of our fellow cruisers, and a fair number were keen to give it a try.

All in all, this unusually unique cruise through some of the most magnificent passages of the Alaskan territory left us in awe of the natural beauty, wildlife and landscapes for the entire duration of the voyage. Fortunately, we realized that we were enjoying a special, once-in-alifetime trip and did our best to soak in every moment.

While there is something to be said about the ice skating extravaganzas and aerial shows aboard the floating cities that represent one of the cruising spectrums, Un-Cruise fills a niche for a more simplistic approach. By providing an intimate, one-of-a-kind adventure to places and experiences wonderfully off-the-beaten track, our crew of the Safari Endeavor magically reminded its passengers that sometimes less is more … much more, indeed.

Viewing an iceberg from a skiff

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Secluded Showstopper:

Guatemala

"T'was the perfect day in Paradise."

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photography by Anisha Shah

Luxury emerging destinations travel journalist Anisha Shah relishes in the mysterious Mayan marvel of Guatemala.

Sushi Roku at the W Scottsdale

Sushi Roku at the W Scottsdale

Sushi Roku at the W Scottsdale

photography by Anisha Shah

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or an explorative, free-spirited and wildly independent girl who places the highest importance on experience, expression and action, Guatemala is euphoria.

The true beauty of traveling to an emerging destination is the thrill of uncovering a secret. This nugget of information is second nature to this Central America starlet, exposing 37 mighty volcanoes, epic lakes, misty mountains, rugged beaches and authentic colorful towns and markets with ancient Mayan traditions and Mestizos, all within its petite circumference.

Isolated secluded moments in paradise; they’re the ones in which I luxuriate.

Guatemala, the tiny splendor nestled south of Mexico, packs a powerful punch with such opportunity at every turn. Led by the fantastic Guatemala Tourism Board’s ‘star tour guide’, Willy Posadas enhances the creative spirit of exploration in that deeply intuitive and spontaneous manner I simply adore.

Cherished memories often come from deviations in the ‘plan’. Thus begins my impromptu day in Monte Rico on the remote and rugged Pacific Coast, initially no more

Sushi Roku at the W Scottsdale

than a lunch stop.

The moment I step onto the vast, open, hammock-fringed hotel terrace, rustic planks of wood whisk me onto a wide, airy, jet-black sand beach, stretching for miles as far as the eye can see into the milky horizon.

It’s Monday. There isn’t a soul in sight; I have my very own stunningly sensual, black powder-sand beach with the rolling waves of the Pacific foaming ashore at my feet.

I’m momentarily seized. Traveling solo, the urge to throw myself onto the beach in a Sound-of-Music-meets-Bollywood musical scene, singing, dancing and skipping, is uncontrollable. I could spontaneously combust into flames of newfound freedom!

One deep breath of the freshest ocean breeze breathes real life into the fantasy.

It’s while tucking into a zingy fresh Shrimp Ceviche on the barefoot beachfront restaurant that I decide I cannot leave. In this frame of mind, determination dominates.

Within minutes, I’ve booked a room for the night. Now, to unwind. It’s late afternoon, with jazz playing in my earphones. I wander onto the beach to feel the powder-soft volcanic black sand in my toes. A semi-wild beach dog accompanies me.

The sense of isolation is surreal. Like

The sense of isolation is surreal.

Like stepping into a film scene, the windswept shoreline is barren and undeveloped, dotted only with scattered colorful fishing huts.

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stepping into a film scene, the windswept shoreline is barren and undeveloped, dotted only with scattered colorful fishing huts.

Entering the Twilight Zone, skies are streaked a rare intensity of pink, creating a moody passionate ambiance. This feels like the perfect moment for a solo dusk swim.

With only a fisherman’s family nearby, I play with his children, drawing shapes in the sand, while he maintains a fixed gaze at the crest of oncoming waves. As he flings his net, timed to perfection – casting it into the horizon – the mesh momentarily fills the sky, as time freezes mid-air. Drawing it in, he’s netted an impressive array of catch.

Back at the hotel, where I’m sole resident, my evening meal of lemon-drenched Tilapia is accompanied by a bottle of neighboring Chilean wine and, at that, it’s time for lights out. But I’m not done. With my music gently playing on the overhead speakers, I’m drawn to the night beach. Sensual black sand, black sky, black sea … the allure is captivating. I twirl, smiling, hands in the air, breeze flirting with my hair, caressing my neck and forming an elusive dance partner.

(My guide thinks I’m crazy but joins in!)

Laughing, I collapse onto the sand, staring up at an inky-black, velveteen blanket studded with entire constellations of Swarovski stars; even the sky is dressed for the occasion in

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At this hour, people are sparse; early-risers go about their daily business, two-table coffee houses are set up, old men with sun-worn, wrinkleengulfed faces ride by on bicycles, beaming as they sing out “Hola” to greet me. former capital is a majestic landscape of crumbling facades – earthquake legacies.

And the result is strikingly beautiful, namely Colonial Baroque churches and ruins. Filled with elaborate, sumptuous boutique hotel conversions, Antigua is a tourist magnet.

But I rise at dawn for a solo stroll. At this hour, people are sparse; early-risers go about their daily business, two-table coffee houses are set up, old men with sun-worn, wrinkleengulfed faces ride by on bicycles, beaming as they sing out “Hola” to greet me. The sun is just rising, casting a radiant golden glow on the vivid town, warming it with life.

I return to the decidedly upscale El Convento boutique hotel for breakfast on the intimate, stylish terrace with views of surrounding volcanoes (which you can choose to trek).

By nightfall, El Convento’s stone walls and walkways are filled with candlelight and floating petals, lightly perfumed with

photography by Anisha Shah

her exquisite evening gown. Like stepping into Narnia, this otherworldly land feels so isolated; it personifies my passion for emerging destination travel.

Early the next day, my guide takes me to a secret spot he himself only discovered three weeks prior. It’s a long shot, but he tracks down a local boat-owner who agrees to take us on his tiny wooden boat into an intricate waterway system less than a mile inland. Within seconds the scene drastically changes. Navigating tiny narrow canyons, we’re cocooned within dense, towering Mangroves, so close their spindly fingers scrape the boat. Little sunlight gets in here.

It’s dark, humid and mysterious. “I’m back in Borneo,” I proclaim in utter awe. A biodiversity hotspot, glimpses of Marabou and Iguanas flash past. The waterway links to the sea, eventually. The pleasure of surrendering entirely to nature is exciting, as the engine switches off and we row through shallow waters. Totally off the tourist map and even that of most locals, soul-stirring experiences like this capture my heart in Guatemala.

Already, it’s a huge contrast to my first few days spent in UNESCO-designated, Spanish colonial Antigua. Pastel-colored low-tiered buildings line cobbled alleyways through the town’s organized maze. The

photography by Anisha Shah

In into restaurants creative full

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Antigua Hotel

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jade jewelry, I lose any hint of tourists.

Submerged beyond recognition, lost even, I delight as I begin to see entire generations acting out their lives together, stall-side.

Children play in the dirt, elderly folk are half-asleep on rickety wooden chairs, and

colorfully-clad mothers gossip a gaggle of chatter and hackled laughter, while earning a living in a united community spirit.

Guatemala’s markets ooze endless vibrancy, the spectrum of color attacking all the senses.

The most famous is found in Quetzaltenango.

Chichicastenango is an indulgent, immersive riot of color, steeped in tradition and infinitely local. The market spans an entire town where you can find everything, including fresh foods, homeware, jewelry and even a long-lost aunt! But it’s the lesser-known working vegetable market of Almolonga that catches my eye, retaining my fascination for an entire morning. Beguiling in its frantic pace, work halts for nothing as blood, sweat and tears are drawn. Locally-grown vegetables are uncannily humongous, owing to fertile lands, which creates a huge demand for local markets and export.

Driving back to the signature suite of my mountain-clad private residence conversion, Las Cumbres, I spot a startling cemetery in Zunil. Seemingly infinite, it crowns its own hilltop. Encased in creeping fog, the atmosphere is befitting. At the summit, I’m startled by the sight: an ocean of fresh flowers and a rainbow-palette of gravestones make the cemetery heart-stoppingly vivid. A chirpy local lady tells my guide the profound reason for the flowers: Father’s Day. I amble through; dumbfounded by the staggering beauty, care and attention that Latin Americans pay to loved ones lost. The end is not the end.

While international flights land in Guatemala City, it’s the reverse of the usual capital. ‘Guate’, is a series of shantytowns disguised in every shadow, and most people prefer to stay away from it. Considered unsafe by locals, it’s not a city to explore alone. But with locals, I head out by night to sample its superb gastronomy and nightlife scene. And it doesn’t disappoint.

The young, wealthy and educated reside in surrounding hills in exclusive enclaves and enjoy an elite quality of life, with upscale international bars, restaurants and clubs.

No trip to Guatemala is complete, however, without a short flight from here to Tikal, a sprawling pre-Colombian Mayan archaeological and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Temples, altars, stelae and burial sites seen today are the result of decades of dedicated excavation.

Guatemala induces a subconscious desire.

Much in keeping with the Latin-American reputation, this fondness appears out of nowhere but possesses a fiery grip. The precision of the unexpected is magical, the absurdity of spontaneous moments, whimsical.

A mock love affair expressed as an entire country. Overlooked, no more, Guatemala is a hidden haven for the well-traveled seeking fresh and unparalleled inspiration.

photography by Anisha Shah

manicured flashes of bougainvillea, creating the feel of a converted monastery. My wellappointed, spacious suite is adorned in plush Mayan-crafted furnishings, adding exclusive touches of authenticity.

Flashes of the interiors are mirrored later at the sensational Casa Palopo, my tranquil Late Atitlan home-away-from-home. A villa conversion built into surrounding hills with a breathtaking open-face trio of volcano views, the setting is enriched by luxurious interiors, resulting in a very authentic yet Italian-inspired designer home. Be it brunch or a gourmet evening meal, the colonial colors of the restaurant and bar are pictureperfect postcards, monopolizing on the epic volcanic lake views. I struggle to leave this residence.

But leave I do, aboard a private Lancha speedboat for the day, visiting the ribbon of traditional Mayan lakeside market towns.

The frenetic chaos of some is in stark contrast to the peaceful, laid-back atmosphere of others. As I fearlessly meander deep into the web of stalls, where sprightly hand-woven handicrafts vie for attention alongside local

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COVER STORY

Rat Pack Escape to

Palms Springs, california

by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott Without water, Palm Springs would not exist. Attracted by this life-sustaining resource, the Agua Caliente band of Cahuilla Indians settled in the Coachella Valley roughly 2,000 years ago. There is archaeological evidence that humans may have even inhabited the hostile southern California desert over 10,000 years ago. Non-natives exploring the untamed west began arriving in the latter part of the 1800s. A village followed, then a railway and much more.

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ncorporated 75 years ago, in 1938, this sun-baked community is nestled against the jagged, soaring San Jacinto peaks. Palm Springs has long attracted visitors and converted many of those into homeowners. In the 1920s, movie stars and many acting-hopefuls flocked to this desert resort from Hollywood. Rapidly the reputation grew among the theatrical community that this was the place to work and play. Actors’ contracts during that era included a stipulation that they had to be within two hours of Hollywood studios, thus Palm Springs became a natural getaway for the ‘Rat Pack’.

Devastating economic fluctuations and fierce competition from other sun-belt cities may have changed the face of Palm Springs over the years, but this destination remains highly desirable for an escape to the sun. Easily accessible from most major U.S. cities, the Palm Springs International

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Airport was rated one of the Top 10 U.S. Most Stress-Free Airports, by Smarter Travel (April 2011).

Our plane taxied to one of the airport’s 16 open-air gates. We slipped on our coolest shades and sauntered off the plane, embracing the impeccable, crystal-blue sky and California sunshine. Our weekend in the desert was about to begin.

After the highly manageable size of the airport, the next best thing is its proximity to downtown Palm Springs. A quick 15-minute drive and we were checking into the Colony Palms Hotel (www.colonypalmshotel.com).

There is a vast array of accommodation in the Coachella Valley, from shiny megaresorts surrounding golf courses and with casinos and spas, to slightly ragged motels boasting a fresh coat of paint – an alphabet of options. The room category that is almost entirely missing is the high-end boutique hotel, which is why the Colony

We slipped on our coolest shades and sauntered off the plane, embracing the impeccable, crystal-blue sky and California sunshine.

Palms Hotel is a treasure, with only 57 rooms.

This Spanish colonial-style inn was built in 1936 by Al Wertheimer, a Las Vegas casino owner and reputedly a bit of a gangster.

Since that era of brothels and speakeasies, the property has changed hands and even names several times. Once frequented by Hollywood stars, including Frank Sinatra and Elizabeth Taylor, the well-loved hotel needed a facelift.

In 2007, with the creative design talent of Martyn Lawrence Bullard and $17 million, the hotel was re-imaged and completely renovated. The design theme is a blend of southern California desert meets Morocco, where full-height windows capture the stunning mountain views, and dark wood and custom ceramic tile mosaics complement bright luxurious fabrics. In signature Colony Palms Hotel style, the bedrooms feature crisp, white bedding, enlivened by Moroccaninspired headboards and bright-colored throw cushions. All the rooms offer discrete privacy.

image courtesy of the Colony Palms Hotel

Colony Palms Hotel

Viceroy Presidio Pool

top two photos: images courtesy of Viceroy Palm Springs; bottom: image courtesy of Palm Springs Art Museum

Viceroy Palm Springs lobby

In keeping with the Hollywood theme, our room for this weekend was the luxurious 1,800-square-foot Palme D’Or Residence, appropriately named after the Cannes Film Festival’s most distinguished annual award. This secluded villa includes a private terrace, second floor balcony and even a personal spa pool.

We had just enough time before lunch to wash away the realities of modern-day commercial air travel with a dip in the aqua pool. The Purple Palm restaurant overlooks the pool and well-tended gardens. During the day, dining is casual alfresco on the palm-shaded terrace with views of the San Jacinto Mountains. We shared some local Medjool dates while we waited for the chef’s mouth-watering, crispy fish tacos served with fresh pico-de-gallo.

Right on schedule the air-conditioned SUV arrived for our private Celebrity Grand Tour (www.thecelebritytour.com). This tour, although utterly customizable, typically covers the Palm Springs’ neighborhoods where the stars bought their homes.

Notorious areas such as the Old Movie Colony, Las Palmas and Twin Palms are

almost as famous as those celebrities who once lived there.

After a couple hours engrossed in the previous lifestyles of the Hollywood set, it was time to return to the hotel and get dressed for cocktail hour. We chose the vibrant Viceroy Palm Springs (www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com) for a drink. The hotel’s restaurant and bar are both named Citron, a word play on the California citrus groves. The bar is a striking design canvas of white marble and black lacquer highlighted with punches of lemon yellow. Perched on white bar stools, we sipped their signature Citron Blue martinis and toasted our day.

Our Friday night dinner was on the romantic patio at Le Vallauris (www.levallauris.com). Subtle elegance best describes tables adorned with white linens and delicate china, set under a refreshing leafy canopy of ficus trees. The menu and tasty creations by Executive Chef Jean Paul Lair had us believing for the evening that we had left Palm Springs for the European continent. His French-inspired cuisine includes choices such as expertly prepared

spring lamb and delicate market-fresh fish.

We did leave room for the house-made vanilla profiteroles drizzled with chocolate sauce.

Saturday we awoke refreshed and relaxed; it was time to take in some of the cultural and architectural gems of Palm Springs.

Our first stop was Koffi, my favorite spot for people-watching and specialty coffee, in that order.

With our lattes in hand, it was art time.

At 150,000 square feet, the Palm Springs Art Museum (www.psmuseum.org) is highly manageable for those interested in multidisciplined art. Contemporary-focused works include a striking glass collection, sculpture garden, photography and select pieces by world-renowned artists such as Picasso, Calder, Chagall, Gormley and many others.

The Palm Springs Desert Museum first

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opened its doors in 1938 with a focus on the Coachella Valley and native artifacts from the region. The holdings have evolved from a natural science concentration towards a broad collection of contemporary art. The museum moved to the current location in 1976 and officially assumed its name in 2005. To best appreciate the treasures within the walls of this impressive facility, we arranged for private docent tour.

Choosing a lunch spot in Palm Springs is not as easy. The restaurant scene covers the entire range from casual poolsidenoshing to popular mist-cooled terraces to more formal settings. We chose Spencer’s Restaurant (www.spencersrestaurant.com) at The Mountain, at the base of the San Jacinto peaks, for the view and the relaxed lunchtime service. Their menu features American classics with a modern twist.

There is a wide selection of appetizers that are perfect for sharing, generous mealsized salads, an impressive sandwich list and more. We enjoyed the seared ahi tuna niçoise salad and the Maine lobster club as we planned our afternoon.

One of the attractions of the Coachella Valley, besides the obviously fabulous weather, is the appeal to almost every potential interest. There is remarkable midcentury modern architecture, hundreds of manicured golf courses and just as many hiking trails. Road biking, mountain biking, desert jeep tours, farmers’ markets, exclusive shopping and soothing spas are all readily available. Given that this was a quick holiday, we opted for massages on our secluded balcony at the hotel.

Before dinner, we strolled down South Palm Canyon Drive searching for a tempting location for a cocktail. The long bar at Lulu’s California Bistro (www.lulupalmsprings.com) has sightlines of the Palm Springs’ strip and offers an extensive list of wines by the glass. According to my husband, they also serve a first-rate Cadillac margarita.

Although tempting, we stayed away from the bar menu as we were headed uptown for dinner at the Workshop Kitchen & Bar. The exterior structure of this historic 1940s city building was heavily influenced by Spanish design. The interior of the Workshop Kitchen & Bar (www.workshoppalmsprings.com) is a different story – a tribute to minimalist industrial planning where the creative team melded concrete and black leather in a most unusual way. A vaulted ceiling soaring 27 feet over a long communal table reaches toward the heavens, and intimate booths with black-leather banquets appear like church pews in a temple of dining. The 36

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restaurant opened its doors in 2012 after extensive renovations.

Michael Beckman is one of the owners of Workshop Kitchen & Bar; he is also the chef.

He brings to the restaurant a remarkable talent and an impressive resume: he apprenticed at the Michelin three-stared Maison Lameloise in Burgundy, and other equally sought-after dining rooms before returning to the United States.

His menu was so tempting we wanted to order everything. Somewhat restrained, we sampled the quinoa and beet salad, an excellent counterpart to beef tenderloin

A vaulted ceiling soaring 27 feet over a long communal table reaches toward the heavens, and intimate booths with black-leather banquets appear like church pews in a temple of dining. cooked sous vide and served with shallot confit.

Our last day in the desert began with a leisurely stroll down Palm Canyon Drive following the Walk of the Stars (www.palmspringswalkofstars.com). This tribute began in 1992, honoring those actors, writers, producers and artists who excelled in their trade and who lived at one time in the Palm Springs area. There is an audio tour guide available, describing the influence that these famous people had on the city.

Brunch is also popular in Palm Springs.

We barely managed to get a table at Trio (www.triopalmsprings.com), a favorite with locals and visitors alike, where the hearty seafood omelet and burrito scramble filled the void. Before leaving town, we poked through the stores in what is considered the uptown district, featuring an eclectic mix of contemporary art, mid-century modern kitsch, and avant-garde clothing.

As we strolled through the airport and glanced back at the impressive mountains, we promised to be back soon to explore more of the Coachella Valley.

Palm Springs Art Museum

Le Vallauris patio

Workshop Kitchen

Workshop Kitchen

top to bottom: image courtesy of Palm Springs Art Museum; image courtesy of Le Vallauris Restaurant; image courtesy of Workship Kitchen image courtesy of Workship Kitchen

A Touch of Glamor A Dash of Spice A Splash of Rum

St. Croix

by Apple Gidley

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photography by Apple Gidley

he Caribbean has always attracted the raffish, the regal and the wealthy.

Think Ernest Hemingway, Princess Margaret, Richard Branson, Oprah Winfrey and, on St. Croix, the largest of the US Virgin Islands, Irish American screen star Maureen O’Hara and Agnes Nixon, creator of All My Children and considered the queen of the modern soap opera. Walt ‘Clyde’ Frazier of the N.Y. Knicks has had a home on St. Croix for 30 years, and Tim Duncan of the San Antonio Spurs is from the island. Each attracts a cadre of guests with equally illustrious names who add an intangible piquancy to the sugar and spice that make up the rich history of the Caribbean.

The paparazzi are not welcome, their abrasive ways at odds with respect given and received by those both bahn ya, or born here, and those lucky enough to alight.

Polite greetings are the norm whether passing on the street or instigating highpowered meetings. It is a laid-back place where the rich and famous rub shoulders with the not-so-rich and famous. The

gentle parp of a car horn means “please, after you”, rather than the aggressive “coming through” of the mainland – welcome indeed for the unwary traveler unused to driving a left-hand vehicle on the left of the road.

Dirt roads delineated by brilliant flamboyant trees, or bougainvillea cascading magenta and coral in reckless abandon, lead to multi-million dollar homes perched along ridges and tucked onto cliff faces, their terraces gazing out across shimmering azure bays. Their owners, some part-timers dipping in and out of the tranquillity, and some residents, are shielded by discreet walls and fences, hidden by lush hedges of pillar-box red ixora, and palm trees swaying sentinel as dazzling emerald hummingbirds and cheeky yellow-breasted bananaquits dart among the blooms.

St. Croix, set in the midst of the Caribbean Sea, is the lesser known of the US Virgins. St. Thomas, blousy and boisterous by comparison, is popular with both the package vacationers and

the cruise ships. St. John, synonymous with serenity, verdant forests and ecocamps, is a short ferry ride from its noisy neighbor. St. Croix is literally an island of calm, about 40 nautical miles from the others and, as such, eschewed by the charter boat companies. The yachts found moored in her pristine bays are privately owned, and only experienced sailors navigate the narrow breaks in the necklace of coral protecting the coastline.

Originally known as Ay Ay, the island has a long history, with evidence showing the possible presence of both the warhungry Caribs and the peaceable Arawaks, though an element of certainty is felt that the matriarchal, though warlike, Taino Indians from Hispaniola were a part of the patchwork. Christopher Columbus was given a less than generous welcome in 1493 when he ordered his fleet to hove to at the mouth of what is now known as Salt River, and sent ashore a longboat “to make talk” with natives. The area now offers safe haven to yachts and motor launches, as well as a chance to experience twinkling bioluminescent tours of the reef in glassbottom kayaks.

Colonized, captured, lost, recaptured and bought, St. Croix has flown under seven flags: Dutch, British, French, Spanish, the Knights of Malta and, finally in 1917, sold by the Danish government for 25 million dollars to the US, fearful of German expansion during the First World War. With the benefits of US laws and banking regulations, strong African roots from the days of slavery, a European heritage, and a lingering Caribbean charm, St. Croix has much to offer both residents and visitors alike.

The 84-square-mile island has two distinct climates, with rolling hills delineating them. The arid and cactistrewn East End boasts Point Udall atop which, proudly reaching for the skies, is the Millennium Monument, a Global Living Magazine

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Croix caters to all whims.

And there’s history all around – from Indians to the early European settlers.

Whim Great House, or Lawaetz Museum, offers a peek into the life of the earliest planters. Amble around Christiansted, imagining the hooves on cobblestones as wagons carried goods to the Custom House, just below Fort Christiansvaern, whose cannons have never been blasted in warfare, the overpowering smell of rum leeching from the kegs as each is weighed at the Scale House, the streets filled with toiling slaves and woolen-clad Europeans.

On an overcast evening, the warm trade winds scudding clouds westwards, the steel pans of Bill Bass playing ‘bye bye blackbird’ tinkle through the potted palms on the terrace of The Buccaneer where, on Tuesdays, ‘moko jumbies’ make a colorful appearance, their faces hidden behind yashmak-like veils. Their walk is made jerky by the 12- to 14-foot stilts, which allow them to tower high over the tops of mere mortals, enabling these good spirits to root out the malevolent ‘jumbies’. They hide in the tops of trees, behind tall walls, or lurk near cemeteries and darkened buildings, sometimes changing shape, waiting their chance to spook a hapless passerby; spirits who can’t, or won’t, find their way to the afterworld.

Those staying at The Buccaneer, an

exclusive spa resort on St. Croix, the Virgin Island known as ‘the tranquil one’, are eager to see an island tradition that at times seems far away from the peaceful and secluded luxury the resort proudly offers.

The hotel, now one of several upscale escapes, has the distinction of being the first in the islands to offer hot water, screened windows and closets, way back when it opened in 1947. It’s come a long way since early days of dining disasters and honesty tabs at the bar, but is still owned by the Armstrong family.

Diamond-like crystals glittering on the turquoise waves trickle up beaches, soft and cream like crushed pearl – an island ready to greet those lucky enough to visit for a week, a month, a year or, for some, a lifetime. St. Croix has the enviable distinction of being a gracious and welcoming island and, if a view or event – perhaps the sight of stately Quadrille dancers or the more lively bamboshay – doesn’t provoke a smile, then the Creole patois surely will.

Just remember when ordering a taxi to take you to the airport for your departure, to emphasize European time rather than ‘island time’. But then again there are worse places to be marooned; just ask Maureen O’Hara. Or as Walt ‘Clyde’ Frazier succinctly sums up the island, “Hey man, St. Croix is where I want to be.”

There is much to do on St. Croix – from golf on the Robert Trent Jonesdesigned course at Carambola to paddle boarding or kite surfing, from hiking to sailing to chilling, and even a casino and horse racing.

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photography by Apple Gidley

sundial built to herald the first dawn for the US in the 21st century. By contrast, the northwestern corner, while under the average rainfall required for official classification as a rainforest, is the island’s densely treed Rain Forest – 15 acres of privately-owned forest, though freely open to the public. It’s an area of cool, damp mystery – home to mahoganies, kapok, turpentine and rain trees towering over hog plums, sweet limes, and mangoes.

Deer, mongoose and iguanas, but not a single snake, can all be seen on a hike on either end of the island, and grazing in a nearby field a herd of Senepol cattle. Bred on St. Croix in the mid-1940s, this docile, high-milk-yield cow is now exported to numerous countries.

Christiansted, the capital tucked in behind tiny Protestant Cay, and Frederiksted, on the western end, both have forts, boutiques and homes with foot-thick walls made with the bricks used as ballast on the ships that set sail from Denmark. Arriving in the Caribbean, these ships were eager to take on board a cargo of cotton, sugar, molasses and rum to be delivered back to Europeans hungry for all the islands had to offer.

Now, planes from Miami and Puerto Rico zoom in, disgorging tourists and returning residents, but still the most exhilarating manner of arrival is on the whoosh of the floats of a small seaplane from St. Thomas, or various other islands.

There is much to do on St. Croix – from golf on the Robert Trent Jones-designed course at Carambola to paddle boarding or kite surfing, from hiking to sailing to chilling, and even a casino and horse racing. Touring the Cruzan Rum Distillery gives a taste of what has been an island mainstay since 1760, and wandering the maze of art galleries tucked under the deep overhang of Danish colonial buildings, or duty free shopping – maybe purchasing one of Sonya’s famous Hook Bracelets – pleasantly passes the time … island time.

Watching the sun set in a shimmering spectacle filtering through palms on the Frederiksted waterfront, or maybe sipping a rum cocktail on the Boardwalk at Christiansted or from a resort terrace, watching yachts returning from Buck Island, ends the day on a high note. St.

by Anne O’Connell

thailand Beach Clubs

Phuket Beach Clubs Offer Year-Round R&R

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image courtesy of Diamond Beaach Club

o say the fun continues all year long on the touristy island of Phuket, Thailand, is an understatement. As many shops and restaurants shutter business during the summer months, there’s still an undercurrent of frolicking that bubbles away for year-round residents.

The quieter low-season is when the locals and expats come out of hiding to enjoy Phuket’s five (soon to be six) ‘destination’ beach clubs – Bliss, Catch, Diamond, RE KÁ TA, Xana and Zazada – for entertainment morning, noon and night, seven days a week.

“During low season we see about a 70/30 split of expats to tourists coming to visit, but during the high season it’s the reverse,” says Pepe Viva, general manager of the Bliss Beach Club and an Italian expat who has been living in Thailand for nine years.

Each club offers decadent lounging by the pool or beachside, overlooking the pristine Andaman Sea, along with mouth-watering lunch, dinner and snack

menus as well as extensive cocktail menus and wine lists. Yet each one has its own unique personality, spicing it up for visitors and making it tough to choose only one.

The very family friendly Bliss Beach Club (www.blissbeachclub.com), which opened in November 2011, fronts on the gorgeous, not-so-chaotic Bang Tao Beach and features a grassy kids’ play area next to the pool.

According to Viva, Bliss, a winner of the Trip Advisor 2013 Certificate of Excellence, attracts all ages. The party crowd does tend to filter in later in the day to enjoy sunset cocktails followed by dinner and dancing. There are even showers and changing rooms for a seamless transition from beachwear to evening wear.

The club’s menu boasts a few very special Chef Alex creations, including the Pesto Sen Yai, made from fresh herbs right out of Bliss’s own herb garden and accompanied by an Indonesian Salsa, made from chili peppers also out of the garden.

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Traveling south from Bang Tao Beach along Phuket’s west coast brings revelers to the busier Surin Beach, where Catch and Diamond beach clubs are nestled almost side by side. A third, Zazada (www.zazadabeachclub.com), the first Thai style beach club, is due to open on Surin Beach in the fall of 2013. Surin is the perfect scenario for a night out with a bit of variety and no driving required in between clubs.

The eye-catchingly brilliant white with glowing turquoise accents of the Catch Beach Club (www.catchbeachclub.com) is the first in the Surin Beach line-up and was also the first Phuket beach club to open. Catch is well known for its lively parties and lunch and dinner buffets that stretch as far as the eye can see. Also popular is the Catch Beach Club Fashion Gallery featuring custom-designed clothing and accessories for those in the mood for a little shopping.

Diamond Beach Club (www.diamondbeachclub.com), which opened in December 2012, has several claims to fame but the first one that might come to mind is the talented, awe-inspiring flair bartenders who perform in the open-air venue under a big top, circustype tent. Bar staff are called 'mixology experts' and one of their ‘flair-tenders’ can often be seen testing the limits of flairing … probably while preparing one of their signature cocktails such as the Diamond Lycheetini or some wild concoction created by a patron, which is wholeheartedly encouraged.

Meanwhile, Chef Nicollini, an Italian from Sicily, might be found putting the final touches on his renowned antipasti menu, a creative Thai/ Mediterranean fusion. Diners can take advantage of wine tastings or stroll through the art gallery while they wait for dinner to be served.

Newcomer, RE KÁ TA Beach Club (www.rekataphuket.com), winner of Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence, is the farthest south on Phuket’s Andaman Coast on Kata Beach. RE KÁ TA has a slightly different take on the beach club scenario, touting its fashion boutique and café culture along with a spa where visitors can enjoy a massage, aromatherapy and other beauty treatments.

That’s in the daylight hours, though. Like its cohorts, RE KÁ TA also offers a nightclub scene after dark

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Xana Beach Club

images courtesy of Xana Beach Club

Xana Beach Club

with an “eclectic blend of St. Tropez ‘Beach Lounge’ fused with classic ‘World Flavors’ and Miami ‘Party Beats’ for the cocktail-sipping, after-dinner crowd,” according to its website.

Xana Beach Club with Attica (www.xanabeachclub.com) holds the northernmost position, located on the Laguna end of Bang Tao Beach. One of the star attractions is a 114foot pool. It’s particularly appealing during the summer months when the seas can get a little rough in Phuket.

After a day at the pool, Xana’s party scene kicks into high gear with regular appearances by worldrenowned DJs. Rumor has it that many patrons who need a little sustenance before letting go often choose the ‘no rules’ burger … (almost) anything goes on it.

It may be one-upmanship or just pure competition, but each club’s parties seem to get more and more elaborate with famous DJs, fire jugglers and trapeze artists making frequent appearances. The upside is that it makes for great festivities on a regular basis for visitors, locals and expats. From special events like Bliss’s annual charity benefit (this year’s Mystic Mirage) and Xana’s Electric Beach Bingo, to Diamond’s monthly Moonshine the first Saturday of the month, there’s plenty to do. All the clubs also offer hosting and planning for private parties and weddings.

The ‘beach club’ scene on Phuket has certainly taken on a whole new meaning, bringing with it an infectious vibe. Locals, residents and visitors alike are definitely digging it. More information on all the clubs can be found on the Phuket Beach Club Society website (www.phuketbeachclubsociety.com).

Details on seasonal specials, weekly ladies’ nights, BBQs, Sunday brunches, pool parties and other events are outlined on each club’s site.

Each club offers decadent lounging by the pool or beachside, overlooking the pristine Andaman Sea, along with mouth-watering lunch, dinner and snack menus as well as extensive cocktail menus and wine lists.

Diamond Beach Club dancing Diamond Beach Club DJ

Diamond Beach Club from water

images courtesy of Diamond Beach Club, Bliss Beach Club and Xana Beach Club

Xana Beach Club guest DJ Paul Oakenfold

Bliss Beach Club Executive Chef Alexander Oddy

Bliss Beach Club restaurant and patio

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Celebrates100 Years of History

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- by

Cedric Damour

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photography by Philippe Derouet, courtesy of the Hotel Plaza Athenee Paris

Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris

photography by Sipa, courtesy of the Hotel Plaza Athenee Paris

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ocated on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne, unrivaled in Paris for its elegance and its many prestigious designer boutiques, the Plaza Athénée has housed the most famous travelers since its opening in 1913.

From Grace Kelly to Gary Cooper, and from Jackie Kennedy to the Ford family, the Plaza Athénée is the ultimate luxury spot in Paris.

Celebrating its centenary in 2013, the hotel has been tremendously changed in the last decade.

In 2000, it was fully renovated. Renowned chef Alain Ducasse set up his restaurant, which became a major center of Parisian cuisine with three Michelin stars, and Patrick Jouin, a disciple of French designer Philippe Stark, created the most daringly designed bar in the French capital.

In 2005, the Royale Suite, with a surface area of 4,840 square feet was created. In 2008, the Plaza Athénée and Christian Dior, its neighbor across the Avenue Montaigne, jointly set up the Dior Institute at the hotel. This spa came naturally, as the first encounter between Christian Dior and the Plaza Athénée took place in 1946, when the house of Christian Dior moved into 30 Avenue Montaigne and the luxury hotel became a second home to Monsieur Dior. Haute couture, the spirit of the place, an elite clientele, personalized service... Their many points of resemblance,

100th Anniversary celebration at Hotel Plaza Athénée

shared heritage and common values inevitably forged a close bond between Dior and the Plaza Athénée.

A favorite spot for the Parisians and foreigners alike Although the Plaza Athénée is a hotel, many of its landmarks are favorites for the trendiest locals too, and both the travelers and Parisians can often be found at any time of the day, at one of the hotel hotspots. For tea at La Galerie des Gobelins, which takes its inspiration from the avenue Montaigne and fashion, guests can enjoy a fashion parade of flavors at any time. Teatime at the Plaza Athénée is one of the best in Paris, with an amazing choice of cakes and pastries, created by the World Cakes and Pastries Champion, Christophe Michalak.

For a refreshment at La Cour Jardin, which opens every year when the nice summer days are back, guests can relax in the famous garden terrace restaurant with its red sun umbrellas and Virginia creeper. For a glass of wine (directly from the Plaza cellar, which offers more than 1,700 choices) or a light meal, guests can visit the Terrasse Montaigne, facing the famous ‘haute couture’ avenue in a setting full of greenery. Last but not least, guests can wind down at the Bar of the Plaza Athénée, the most daring bar in the

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Entry of the Dior Institut

La Galerie des Gobelins

La Cour Jardin

French capital, to be ... and be seen. Created in 2001, its main room is set around a long, brightly lit counter made of curved, shaped glass, like an enormous iceberg that lights up when you touch it. High, Louis XV style metal stools with leather seats, Murano glass micro-chandeliers and long polished stainless steel tables are set facing it.

The bar is famous for is unique cocktails and the ‘Red and Blue’ hours, with electro rock nights from Thursday to Saturday.

The 100th anniversary of the Plaza Athénée: A day to remember Since its opening in 1913, the Plaza Athénée has remained a symbol of the French art of hospitality, gastronomy and Parisian glamour.

On April 20, 2013, one hundred years to date after the hotel’s inauguration, the celebration proved once again that the palace has remained in the tradition of luxury – both timeless and modern.

After a visit to the first floor where the florists, housekeepers, French polisher, John Lobb service and children’s services were presented in a succession of suites, the guests got to enjoy a party in true Parisian style.

In the Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

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restaurant, they could admire the wonderful pyramid of 650 flutes created by Moët & Chandon and reaching a height of 11.4 feet, before moving on to the Garden Courtyard.

There, an impressive and elegantly decorated 26-foot high giant cake, made especially for the day, bore the message ‘100 years – Happy Birthday, Plaza Athénée’. Beyond that were mouthwatering displays of bakery, cake-making and mixology.

After a speech by François Delahaye, a time capsule arrived, with Sex and the City playing in the background (an acknowledgement of the series that filmed one of its last episodes at the Plaza Athénée); a selection of objects representative of the hotel since its creation were put in the capsule. Among them were a vintage 1911 Moët & Chandon champagne bottle, a valet’s whistle dating from 1913, a bailiff’s chain of office, and a set of Cardex records from the 1970s showing names such as ‘Mr. Frank Sinatra’ and ‘Mr. Elton John’.

The ceremony ended on a high note with the release of 100 red balloons, a delight for the assembled guests and an expression of hope for the next 100 years.

from top left clockwise: photography by De Laubier; photography by Eric Laignel; photography by Francis Amiand; photograph by Thomas Dhellhemmes

Royal Suite living room

image s courtesy image courtesyof ofOla theVoyna Hotel Plaza Athenee Paris

Since its opening in 1913, the Plaza Athénée has remained a symbol of the French art of hospitality, gastronomy and Parisian glamour.

Le Bar du Plaza Athénée

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The Peninsula shanghai

Reliving Old Shanghai in an Ultra-Luxe Setting

by Jessica Benavides Canepa

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Experiencing indulgent luxury at the 5-star Peninsula shanghai

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A Look Back at a Glorious Era Inaugurated in 2009 on an enviable location on the scenic Bund, the Peninsula Shanghai is the ninth in a chain of luxury hotels first created in 1928. It exquisitely breathes the glamorous life inspired by the 1920s - 1930s Art Deco period, a magical time in Shanghai. Imagine palatial mansions, extravagant parties and wealthy patrons all forming part of this ‘Golden Age’ of the city – aptly nicknamed the ‘Paris of the East’.

The hotel’s décor and ambience – from the tastefully decorated rooms to the spacious lounges and dining areas and the high-end shopping arcade, boast authentic details of the rich heritage marking this unique period of time.

Although there are new Peninsula hotels and related events in the works (most notably the highly anticipated Peninsula Paris), the Peninsula Shanghai has managed to impress all the senses during its relatively short existence, with awardwinning dining, spectacular views, classic entertainment and, perhaps most importantly, a high level of client service.

A Room with a View My room, which was categorized as ‘deluxe with river views’, was the second lowest category in a selection of five, but you 48

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The Peninsula Shanghai

never would have guessed it. In a space of approximately 600 sq. ft., it featured a king-size bed, a living room area with a desk, a walk-in closet, magnificent views of the Huangpu River skyline, and an indulgent marble bathroom with a spa tub, massage shower, plasma TV and state-of-the-art mood settings.

I particularly enjoyed the decadent spa settings of the luxurious washroom and the inconspicuous dumbwaiter located in the walk-in closet; it provided my morning paper and magically delivered my freshly-pressed laundry. In the evenings I looked forward to another delightful treat: the turning down of the bed. Each night during my stay, I gleefully returned to find the sheets carefully pulled back with my slippers and hand towels set out, while resting on the pillow was one perfect chocolate treat – meticulously created in house.

Gourmet Sensations Continuing my adventures in opulent grandeur, I opted for the afternoon tea menu served daily in the immense lobby area. As I listened to a classical pianist, I wondered how I would finish the three tiers of bite-size delicacies, including salmon, cucumber and roast beef finger sandwiches, plus mini scones and éclairs accompanied by generous servings of tea.

There are four other dining and entertainment options equally striking and inviting in their own right. The elegant Yi Long Court Restaurant serves the Cantonese recipes of celebrated Chef Dicky To and includes a strikingly modern chef’s table, featuring an open kitchen for an insider’s view of the culinary action. Sir Elly’s offers both a European cuisine eatery and a mesmerizingly long bar terrace area with a nightly happy hour between 5 p.m. and 8 p.m.

images courtesy of The Peninsula Shanghai

he first hint of the opulence to come arrived in the form of a custom-made, emerald-green Rolls Royce. Sent to transport me to the Peninsula, this magnificent vehicle featured a fine leather interior with complimentary refreshments, Wi-Fi coverage and an attentive white-gloved driver who effortlessly confirms the local weather, our travel route and my musical preferences before embarking on the 30-minute drive.

Upon my arrival, an elegantly-attired doorman opens the car door, signals the bellboys (in charming, retro 1920’s white and gold-trimmed attire) to attend to my luggage and offers a wholehearted, “Welcome to the Peninsula Shanghai. We hope you will have a most pleasant stay.” Not sure if it was his friendly gaze or my new surroundings, but something told me I was in for something special.

I crossed the grand lobby to the reception area and was quickly escorted to my room, following an easy check-in.

Noticing how I curiously handled the sturdy room key – no modern swipe cards here! – I was told that it was one of many details that encouraged guests to feel at home. After a brief explanation of the customizable lighting, temperature and bathroom spa settings, I was beginning to understand what they meant.

image courtesy of The Peninsula Shanghai

The Peninsula Suite Lounge

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Ballroom Foyer

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The Compass Bar

all images for spread provided by Nichole Esparon, images courtesy of The Peninsula Shanghai used under license from Shutterstock

Sir Elly's Terrace Hotel Pool

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Shopping Arcade

The Compass Bar – in all its striking purple and navy glory – pays homage to Shanghai’s long maritime history, while the evening venue, Salon da Ning, is the epitome of an overindulgent, impossibly glamorous speak-easy of the 1930s, complete with a bold and eclectic décor, made all the more interesting by themed alcoves … its antique caged-elevator and a whimsical King Kong statue greeting guests at the entrance.

Of Body, Soul and Discovery Featuring a spa space of nearly 14,000 sq. ft., a regal 80-ft. indoor pool and an adequate collection of gym equipment, it is safe to say that I felt extraordinarily pampered. Highlights: the incredible distressing massage options that include one or more elements of Chinese, European and Ayurvedic influences, the refreshing cucumber water and the complimentary yoga offered every morning by the pool.

I didn’t even have to venture far to shop for gifts or consider spoiling myself with the best in high-end fashions; the hotel is adjacent to a dazzling shopping arcade housing 25 worldrenowned luxury brands (Chanel has its city flagship store at this location) and a namesake Peninsula gift shop selling everything from decorations and toiletries to food baskets and souvenirs.

Intimately familiar with Shanghai, I didn’t expect that I would need concierge services – until I heard about the relaunch of the Peninsula Academy Program. Started in 1997 as a way to offer once-in-a-lifetime services to loyal customers at the first Peninsula hotel in Hong Kong, the idea soon spread to the other Peninsulas around the globe. The concept is as ambitious as it is a simple one; a select activity, tour or class is personalized to introduce visitors to particular cultural, artistic, gourmet and historic aspects of Shanghai.

The Peninsula Shanghai

Hotel Spa

The hotel is adjacent to a dazzling shopping arcade housing 25 worldrenowned luxury brands (Chanel has its city flagship store at this location) and a namesake Peninsula gift shop.

Remarkable experiences include a private heritage tour of Shanghai’s landmark buildings in a Rolls Royce Phantom limousine, a behind-the-scenes visit to the city’s exciting contemporary art scene, and an opportunity to take to the stage at a Chinese opera complete with a full costume and make-up ensemble.

On the final day of my stay, it was raining heavily but I urgently needed to get to an ATM. Prior to checking out, I asked for directions at the reception desk and was halfway down the block when a staffer ran after me with an umbrella.

Upon my return, another employee was waiting with a cup a tea and an offer to have my sweater dried.

I realized at that moment that ‘home’ was not just in the pampering but also in the attentive care from beginning to end.

Sir Elly's Bar

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The Gentle Elegance of Inn by the Sea

by Sherry Amatenstein The luxury at this oceanfront, five-acre resort in Cape Elizabeth, Maine – also known as the heart of lobster country – is understated. There are no Vegas-style lights or baroque statues oozing streams of water into a fountain.

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a lofted bedroom, full-service kitchen, maple furniture, paintings by local artists, and a bathroom the size of my New York City apartment. Other choice accommodations among the 61 offered are beach suites replete with walk-in showers and soaking tubs.

Several of the two-bedroom, condo-style cottages are classified as ‘pet friendly’, as are certain areas of the state-of-the art organic and LEED-certified spa where I succumbed to the joys of a sea-waves massage. A few treatment rooms down, some VIPS (Very Important Pets) were being treated to doggie massages and treats, including K-9 ice cream topped with crumbled dog bones. In my next life I want to be an Inn by the Sea dog.

In this life, however it felt just fine to be an Inn by the Sea guest – whether hanging out on the porch or, in inclement weather, chilling by the fireplace in the club-style lounge off the lobby.

I finally roused myself from the Zen evoked by the Inn’s environment and wound my way via a private boardwalk to the rugged (it is Maine, after all!) three-mile-long Crescent Beach, replete with rock ledges and saltwater coves.

Eventually, scrambling back toward the garden, I made a pilgrimage to visit an adjacent small cemetery housing the wellmarked headstone of the Inn’s congenial ghost, Lydia Carver. Lydia, daughter of a wealthy Freeport merchant, and her 14

Crab cake avocado Benedict and gaucho steak are specialties of Executive Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich bridesmaids perished in a shipwreck on July 2, 1807, after buying their finery for the upcoming wedding.

Lydia is sighted at the Inn on a weekly basis (although she didn’t visit during my 2-day stay), an apparition clothed in the wedding gown that cost her so dearly. At Halloween, the Inn hosts haunted dinner tours, which include a nighttime trek to Lydia’s grave.

My dinners at the Inn were fortunately less eventful, but gastronomically near perfection. The fare served in the Sea Glass restaurant is taste-bud-tantalizing enough to – apologies to Lydia – wake the dead.

Crab cake avocado Benedict and gaucho steak are specialties of Executive Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich, a native of East Orange, New Jersey, who was raised in Argentina. The chef has partnered with local fishermen, other Portland area chefs and The Gulf of Maine Research Institute in a sustainable seafood program that serves under-utilized fish such as cod and haddock.

There is a 5-course lobster tasting menu that includes amazing dishes such as lobster gnocchi and lobster risotto and one anomaly: lobster ice cream.

There is, however, no lobster ice

images courtesy of Inn by the Sea

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ather, perched in a rocking chair on Inn by the Sea’s wrap-around deck during my early summer visit, I lazily sipped a Blueberry Martini, and gazed at a rolling lawn dotted with dogs sauntering with their owners, an iridescent, solar-panelheated pool, Adirondack chairs surrounding a fire pit (ideal for marshmallow-roasting), and a spacious landscape. The latter includes indigenous local plants like nectar, raspberry and dogwood to provide welcoming habitats for endangered species. Hello, Monarch butterflies and New England cottontail bunnies.

Located a cottontail bunny’s throw from Portland, this hotel (www.innbythesea.com), voted among the world’s best hotels in 2011 and 2012 by Travel + Leisure magazine, combines state-of-the-art pleasures with down-home cozy.

Built in 1985, a multi-million-dollar renovation in 2008 made the Inn not only eco-friendly but also a haven for enough pampering touches to attract guests from as far afield as California and Germany.

The Inn’s ‘green’ credits are solid; in addition to the ‘habitat’ projects, the renovation involved sustainable building materials such as recycled sheet rock walls, recycled cork floors, and heating with bio fuel. Guests even use recyclable key cards.

Those key cards lead to magical places. Spa suites, for instance, are two-level and feature

Inn by the Sea www.innbythesea.com

Executive Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich

images courtesy of Inn by the Sea

40 Bowery Beach Road Cape Elizabeth, ME 04107 Tel: 207-799-3134 1-800-888-4287 (outside Maine) Email: info@innbythesea.com

cream served aboard The Lucky Catch (www.luckycatch.com), a working 37-ft. lobster boat that sails the Casco Bay. From April through November, passengers can don orange gloves and aprons to bait lobster traps with herring, and to measure the catch and learn the difference between ‘hardshells’, ‘culls’ and ‘keepers’ – all this, while in the distance foghorns peal mournfully and seagulls swoop so close overhead that those aboard feel like Tippi Hedren in The Birds.

Passengers carry their catch ashore (with the claws rubber-banded) – straight to the Portland Lobster Company where the lobsters are boiled and served with corn and potatoes.

Of course Portland, with 300-plus restaurants, is renowned for much more than lobster. Indeed, it’s been tabbed the ‘Foodiest small town in America’. The Portland Foodie Tour (www.mainefoodietours. com) offers tastes and conversations with merchants at not-to-miss gems like Vervacious (www.vervacious.com) – which specializes in award-winning gourmet condiments like Chocolate Balsamic – and the Public Market House on Monument Square (www.publicmarkethouse.com).

The latter’s mission is to showcase local food vendors like K. Horton Specialty Foods (their artisanal cheese equals perfection!) and provide a community gathering place. On Monument Square Wednesday and Saturday

mornings the hungry descend on the farmer’s market, running continuously since 1768.

A more recent foodie tradition is Harvest on the Harbor, a six-year-old annual celebration of food and wine, this year set for October 23 to 26 (www.harvestontheharbor.com).

The hip yet homespun Portland scene today is a far cry from the 1970s when the city was renowned for its seedy aura, some of which can be recaptured by a visit to the bordello-turned-alehouse: Three Dollar Deweys (www.threedollardeweys.com).

Nowadays the streets are awash with coffee houses, upscale shops, dogs whose manicured nails clickety-clack on the cobblestones and a citizenry who regularly turn out for First Friday Art Walk (www.liveworkportland. org/arts/first-friday-art-walk/participate), a

monthly celebration hosted by local galleries and museums.

You can’t fully appreciate the current Portland art scene, however, without looking at its roots via The Winslow Homer Studio in Prouts Neck. The small, green-shingled house, jutting toward the sea, is where the reclusive artist lived much of the last 25 years of his life and painted classics like ‘High Cliff, Coast of Maine’ and the stormy ‘Northeaster’. The house and adjacent jagged Cliff Walk are not easily accessible; guided tours are available through the Portland Museum of Art (www.portlandmuseum.org).

Don’t worry if this visit evokes emotional turbulence. Zen can be reclaimed by rocking on the wrap-around porch or sitting in the lobby of Inn by the Sea. Global Living Magazine

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image courtesy of La Residencia

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LaResidencia

by Carolyn Pearson

images courtesy of La Residencia

Orange and lemon trees grow in abundance and are used to make the hotel’s marmalade, and olives from the estate are still used today to make La Residencia’s extra virgin olive oil. The team at La Residencia are passionate about their culinary heritage and love to introduce guests to the local dishes.

LEFT PAGE: El Olivo terrace THIS PAGE: Breakfast by the pool, Double room, Tennis lesson.

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he delightful drive to the pretty coastal village of Deià in the Serra de Tramuntana, Mallorca, marked the start of our La Residencia experience.

Passing along the steep cliffs through orange and olive groves, we were rewarded with views of the deep blue Mediterranean Sea and ancient ochre-colored buildings set among the pine trees and cedar forests. Just 40 minutes drive away from the bustle of Palma, Deià and La Residencia blend subtly into the mountain backdrop. Arriving at La Residencia is like stepping back in time to ancient Spain; huge baskets of fresh lemons and oranges adorned the entrance of this understated, five-star luxury hotel and spa.

Formally owned by Sir Richard Branson, La Residencia (www.hotel-laresidencia.com) is now owned by the Orient-Express Group and continues today to be a discreet retreat for the rich and famous.

With only 67 rooms, 37 of which are suites, some with their own private pools, the areas are spacious and each has its own unique charm. Some can be found in little detached ‘cottages’, the 15th-century medieval tower, or in one of the ancient farmhouses and buildings. Ours, looking out towards the village of Deià, was traditional, filled with antique furniture, lots of natural light and came with a four-poster bed, luxury linen and a huge bathroom complemented with candles and gorgeous REN toiletries.

Originally two 16th- and 17th-century manor houses, La Residencia had its own olive farm and, today, home produce remains a major influence on your stay at La Residencia. Orange and lemon trees grow in abundance and are used to make the hotel’s marmalade, and olives from the estate are still used today to make La Residencia’s extra

virgin olive oil. The team at La Residencia are passionate about their culinary heritage and love to introduce guests to the local dishes. Guests can enjoy wine-tastings, or as an alternative twist on the English tradition of afternoon tea, the traditional merienda, thick Mallorcan hot chocolate with ensaimada, or coca de patata, a sweet bun for which the village of Valldemossa is famous, or cuartos, a very light spongecake made with eggs, sugar and flour – perfect for sitting by the roaring log fires in the cooler months.

For something a little different, guests at La Residencia can take a donkey-accompanied trip up the rugged mountainside to an ancient refuge and sample a delicious picnic of local produce and other tasty traditional dishes. The kitchen uses produce from its own herb and vegetable garden, and breakfast at La Residencia is a rustic experience as the vast array of local hams, breads, cheeses and preserves are set out much like a local organic market. Guests can also choose from a selection of traditional hot Spanish dishes and daily specials.

For formal dining, we ate in El Olivo, run under Executive Chef Guillermo Mendez.

From the moment the paprika popcorn arrived, we knew this was going to be a culinary journey. An amuse bouche of mussel soup with truffle arrived, and we followed with the local traditional dish of Carpaccio of Raf Pata Negra tomato with Idiazzabal cheese. We opted for a hybrid of the à la carte and the extensive tasting menus because we were desperate to taste the La Residencia specialty: their famous rack of lamb, baked in an olive crust. We chose a Mallorcan wine to accompany the lamb, the Petalos 2010 Do Bierzo from Global Living Magazine

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tennis courts, and the resident tennis pro is on hand to offer private lessons; there is a modern gym, and guests can enjoy yoga lessons in a stunning outdoor setting.

Boasting three pools – one indoor and two outdoor – one of which is heated, there is plenty of space in which to relax in privacy, and that is exactly what we did.

Finding a nice peaceful sunny position by the upper outdoor pool and completely chilled out, we listened to the song of the happy birds before drifting up to the spa for some serious indulgence. I opted for the signature Citrus Siesta treatment using products from the La Residencia Estate. The treatment started with a gentle olive oil exfoliation followed by a full body massage using essential oils of orange and lemon.

The treatment is designed to relieve stress and release endorphins, leaving you with a feeling of wellbeing. My therapist Louise was naturally intuitive and, being a Reiki practitioner myself, I could feel that she had ‘the gift’. At the end of the treatment, Louise opened the shutters to a breathtaking view of the sunlit mountains beyond, serving me with a tonic of hot water, lemons, oranges and honey. The emotional release, the view and the tangible drop in my stress levels almost reduced me to tears. What a moment!

La Residencia is a world-famous institution but, while many of the rich and famous have passed through its doors, it remains a rustic, unpretentious and welcoming sanctuary.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Front garden, Tramuntana terrace, Lamb in olive crust, Suite 54 pool, Suite 54 bath, Mountain picnic.

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images courtesy of La Residencia

the ‘Tinta del pais’ grape. This delicious, medium-bodied, red wine was filled with flavors of dark berries, black cherries, licorice and violets. The portions were so hearty that we could barely manage dessert, so we opted to share the ‘Majorcan delights’, an unusual array of tasty treats, including sweet chanterelle mushrooms. The service in El Olivo, while formal, is friendly and attentive, with the chef taking time for a leisurely chat with the diners.

I wouldn’t be doing La Residencia justice if I didn’t mention the art. Many artists, writers and musicians have passed through the village of Deià, including famous British poet Robert Graves who settled here in 1929. La Residencia is packed with local art and has its own dedicated gallery where local work is displayed and refreshed regularly.

La Residencia houses its own studio with artist-in-residence Juan Waelder. I whiled away an hour chatting to Juan, originally from Chile, listening to his life story of how he traded his marketing career in the U.S. to follow his heart and his passion.

Juan provides master classes in sculpture and lino art, and many of his own pieces, primarily inspired by the female form, can be found throughout the hotel.

Leisure plays a major part in life at La Residencia; the surrounding area is teeming with rugged paths, and stunning coastal walks can be taken directly from the hotel.

The colorful, mountainous landscape and temperate climate make Mallorca extremely popular with mountain bikers.

La Residencia sports two beautiful outdoor

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BOOK REVIEWS FIVE OF THE BEST...

Column created by Jo Parfitt www.summertimepublishing.com www.expatbookshop.com

tough topics compiled bY jo parfitt

In this section of Global Living magazine, we feature five examples of good books in a specific genre.

Life abroad isn't always a bed of roses. Bad things happen and, when they do, the expat often needs more resilience and support than other people. In this issue of Global Living, we look at five books dealing with tough topics – cancer, depression, bereavement and divorce. If you would like to suggest books for review in this section, please contact: Jo@summertimepublishing.com.

An Inconvenient Posting

The Emotionally Resilient Expat: Engage, Adapt and Thrive Across Cultures

Linda A. Janssen | Summertime Publishing $18.99 Once in a while a book grabs you, resonates, and hits you with blinding light-bulb moments. The Emotionally Resilient Expat is that book. Thoroughly researched, the book proves that Janssen knows her stuff and imparts it with insight. The science behind emotional resilience is relatively new, but she has gathered together all current research in this book. It is lively, beautifully observed and packed with sound advice on what emotional resilience is, and the tools needed to enhance it. Her own journey is deftly woven through the text and makes enriching reading, along with the 65+ contributors sharing their expat experiences – candid, honest, occasionally raw and ultimately hopeful. From transitions, illness, family relationships, depression, death overseas – every challenge of expat life is covered, and then some. If you buy one book about expat/cross-cultural life buy this, carry it with you and refer to it often. You’ll be glad you did. Reviewed by Jane Dean (www.wordgeyser.com)

Love You So Much

Victoria Zacheis Greve and Karen Greve Young | Summertime Publishing $18.95 When Karen Greve Young’s mother Vicki was diagnosed with late-stage ovarian cancer in 1999, mother and daughter decided to write a shared memoir giving them something positive to focus on during Vicki’s illness. Karen researched and investigated all aspects of Vicki’s disease in order to get her the best treatments available, even when it meant questioning the decisions of her mother’s doctors. She writes candidly about the symptoms and passage of the disease, while providing invaluable information about ovarian cancer, with the underlying message that early detection is key to survival. Karen and Vicki’s memoir is an honest account of the difficulties experienced by families when faced with terminal illness, but it’s not all depressing, and the passage of a loving family life permeates throughout.

Love You So Much is a well-written account of Vicki and Karen’s relationship, and a fitting legacy to a woman who was clearly a wonderful wife and mother. Reviewed Global Living Magazine by58 Shelley Antscherl (www.disparatehuisvrouw.com)

Still Life with Sierra: The true story of a family’s quest to find home

Peggy Sijswerda | Windmill Promotions, Inc. $12.50 Still Life with Sierra is a touching story of picking up the pieces after a tragic loss. Peggy Sijswerda has everything: a successful business, a loving husband and three beautiful children. But when her only daughter Sierra dies in a tragic accident, she and her family become prisoners of sorrow that follows them from the United States to the Netherlands and back again as they search for a new meaning of home and family. Sijswerda begins by taking us along her journey towards writing a memoir and telling Sierra’s story to the world. This is an excellent read for anyone in a bicultural relationship, for expats struggling to determine where and what home is, and for anyone who has ever dealt with loss.

Reviewed by Tiffany Jansen

Fly Away Home

Maggie Myklebust | Summertime Publishing $15.94 Maggie Myklebust was born in New Jersey to a Norwegian father and American mother and has spent her life ricocheting between cultures.

Questions concerning who she is, where she belongs and what matters to her have led her to eventually divorce her American husband and move to a tiny island off the west coast of Norway, taking three small children with her. Maggie never set out to write a book, but after taking a writing class when she moved to the Netherlands, she developed a passion and skill for sharing stories that she recalled with amazing detail. This story will resonate with anyone with a family of blended cultures, moving continually between worlds.

Reviewed by Jo Parfitt (www.summertimepublishing.com)

book cover art courtesy of listed publishers

Laura J. Stephens | Summertime Publishing $15.75 An Inconvenient Posting is a combined memoir and self-help book, which uncovers the dark side of being a trailing spouse on an expatriate assignment. The first section describes the author's own experiences with a tough move and a journey through depression. Despite the serious subject, the story is not depressing, and is even funny at times. The story could use a bit more tightening, but still it gives a glimpse inside the head of the author, and her descriptions of depression are eye-opening to those who haven't experienced it, and (I'd imagine) comforting to those who have. The second section contains selfhelp resources, which help people to identify and deal with depression when overseas. This section is short, but the resources could provide a helpful first step out of the depths for anyone having a tough time. Reviewed by Jenn H. O'Connell (www.theengineerswife.wordpress.com)

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