Issue 9

Global Living issue 9 | November/december 2013

Living Luxuriously, Worldwide

magazine

ITALY: Ti Sana detox Retreat

Embracing the 'Health-eatarian' Philosophy for Active Living

the WINTER ISSUE

Kenya: A birthday adventure A Fairytale Birthday Escapade in East Africa

France: burgundy canal

Luxury Hotel Barging on the Burgundy Canal

PRAGUE: A weekend getaway Exploring the Surrounding Czech Republic Countryside and Châteaux

Bangkok: Expat living

A British Expat's True Story of Life in the Capital of Thailand

Responsibly eco-luxe winter fashion

harricana by mariouche Canadian designer Mariouche Gagné opens up about her booming recycled fur fashion business

A Global Media Partners LLC Publication www.GlobalLivingMagazine.com

Global Living Magazine

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Global Living Magazine

Global*Within Living Magazine Europe

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR / alison cavatore /

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s winter rolls around and the festive season begins, we have our own personal reason to celebrate here at Global Living. On October 24th we launched the new Global Living app for smartphones and tablets, providing our readers with the ultimate travel experience at their fingertips – anytime, anywhere. The app is free to download and features in-app purchases of single issues as well as a yearly subscription option, meaning you can be among the first to read every new issue of Global Living. The interactive app also provides integrated access to all of Global Living’s social media accounts – to keep you connected at all times – and also includes innovative clipping tools that facilitate the sharing of your favorite articles, images and Global Living news straight from the app to your friends and colleagues.

None of this would be possible, of course, if we didn’t have the incredible talent from our contributors (p. 7). While some have been with us since the beginning (nine issues in total!), we are also pleased to present you with articles from our new contributors who have equally extraordinary travel and expatriate experiences to share with you. The articles and images that all of our contributors submit for each

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Availabe on

Alison Cavatore Founder & Editor-in-Chief, Global Living Magazine

Editor's Social Cor

ner

Join us on Twitter @GlobalLivingMag or @AlisonCavatore

issue have truly made Global Living shine with unique insider accounts of living luxuriously, worldwide.

Always on the move, our contributors traveled to exclusive locations for our November/December issue. From Antiqua (p. 28) to Kenya (p. 38), the Czech Republic (p. 45) to South Africa (p. 48), and France (p. 22) to Curacao (p. 41) and Italy (p. 15), there’s a special destination for everyone. We are also fortunate to have on board a great group of adventurous expats who shared their personal experiences with living abroad in Bangkok (p. 54), Spain (p. 52), Thailand (p. 56) and more.

Aside from the excitement of our new app, there are plenty of things I’m personally looking forward to as we launch this issue of Global Living – not least of which is the upcoming North American Press Launch of the new Rolls-Royce Wraith, which I will be attending in Scottsdale, Arizona. I look forward to sharing this experience with you in our next issue – but keep an eye out for behind-the-scenes photos on Global Living’s social media accounts, including Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.

In the meantime, I wish you a beautiful holiday season filled with good health, happiness and success.

And, as always, KEEP TRAVELING.

INSIDER ACCESS: Alison's travel moments captured on Instagram.

Wine by the fire at Four Seasons A sunny fall day in Gerogetown, Washington, DC. Hotel, Washington, DC (Twitter:Living @FSWashington) Global Magazine

The Sunset Harbor Marina in Miami Beach, Florida.

A new perspective of The White House, Washington, DC.

Editor's Pick Inspired by the streets, bars and women of Buenos Aires, Ayres is a unique aromatherapy experience for everyone who is passionate about life and does not compromise on quality.

product images courtesy of Ayres

Founded by Alejandro Rasic, a Buenos Aires native and luxury beauty industry veteran with 18 years at Estée Lauder and LVMH, Ayres beauty products are all naturally derived and infused with 100 percent pure essential oils. Stand-out products include an exfoliating body polish and moisturizing body butter, and bar soaps wrapped in fishnet-stockinginspired paper (like the tights of tango dancers). The products are available in three aromatic collections: Midnight Tango, Pampas Sunrise and Patagonia.

In traditional Spanish, Buenos Aires was spelled 'Buenos Ayres' (which means ‘good airs’ or ‘fair winds’), hence the name of the brand: Ayres.

Products are currently available at AyresBeauty.com and coming this holiday season to additional retailers, including Birchbox.com.

Ayres advertising campaign at Café Margot.

Buenos Aires, February 2013.

MODEL: Gina Baldorini PHOTOGRAPHER AND DIRECTOR: Gabriel Rocca.

AYRES Midnight Tango Shower Gel

A sensual combination of sweet vanilla and orange blossom, this lightweight ultra-moisturizing lotion is infused with shea butter and jojoba oil, and enriched with vitamin E and A. 12 fl. oz. $24.00

AYRES Body Butter

Top: Midnight Tango, blended with a combination of sweet vanilla and orange blossom.

Middle: Pampas Sunrise, enriched with plant emollients, herbal extract and vitamins.

Bottom: Patagonia, enriched with plant emollients, herbal extract and vitamins.

6.75 oz. $28.00 (each)

"The Patagonia body butter is thick without being heavy, and it not only satisfies your sense of touch but will also excite your sense of smell.

Featuring hints of delicate jasmine and aromatic rosemary blended with lavender, bergamot, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, patchouli and fir, this product inspires a sense of overall calm."

Alison Cavatore Founder & Editor in Chief Global Living Magazine

Global Living Magazine

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INSIDE GLOBAL LIVING / contents /

November/december 2013

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4 Letter from the Editor Alison Cavatore

5 Editor's pick 7 Contributors

A first-hand account of transforming from an expat to a global citizen through dual citizenship

GLOBAL EVENTS

9 DKNY & Maiden-voyage.com

60 expat book reviews: fiction

Sept. 26, 2013: Business Traveler Wardrobe event in London, England

The ongoing Global Living column recommending the best books for expats

TRAVEL

11 golf travel

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Damon Banks shares his favorite resorts and clubs and recommends must-have items for any course The Art of Starting Over at 1711 Ti Sana Detox and Retreat and Spa

18 harricana by mariouche

Cover Story: Canadian designer Mariouche GangĂŠ's booming recycled fur business

22 france

Luxury hotel barging along the Burgundy Canal

28 Antigua

Uncovering the yachting and sailing haven

33 the dorchester hotel

An exclusive look inside one of the most iconic hotels in the world, The Dorechester Collection's London property

36 Southwest USA

Southwestern winter escape

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Global Living Magazine

The first installment of Anne O'Connell's new Expat Series takes her to the island of Koh Samiu in Thailand for an eight-day fashion detox

59 the dual citizenship transformation

Meet our talented team from around the world.

15 Global spa: Italy

56 living healthy the expat way: part i

38 Kenya

Anisha Shah gets spoiled to a fairytale birthday in East Africa

41 Curacao

Exploring the Caribbean island

45 the czech republic

A weekend getaway in and around Prague

48 south africa

A Journey of Giraffes - South African safari

EXPAT

52 expat on the cheap: spain

The true story of how American expat Nick Hilden settled in Spain on less than $200

54 expat in bangkok

A British expat's journey moving to and living in Bangkok.

On the Cover:

harricana by mariouche Image Courtesy of Harricana by Mariouche

connect with us:

Facebook.com/GlobalLivingMagazine Twitter.com/GlobalLivingMag Pinterest.com/GlobalLivingMag Instagram.com/GlobalLivingMag GlobalLivingMagazine.com Living Luxuriously, Worldwide

GLOBAL CONTRIBUTORS Amalia Maloney Del Riego As a freelance writer and advent traveler, Amalia Maloney Del Riego blends her passion for people and traveling to give the reader an experience rich in local cultures. She is currently based out of Denver, CO and, as a dual citizen of the U.S. and Spain, spends time living and traveling throughout Europe. Learn more about her and her work at www.about.me/amalia.

Shelley Antscherl Shelley Antscherl is a British journalist, expat and mother of four now living in British Columbia. Prior to relocating to Canada, Shelley spent- nearly three years living in the Netherlands. She has also lived in the U.S. and Sweden. She currently writes for various publications and websites, and blogs about her adventures as the Disparate Huisvrouw (www.disparatehuisvrouw.com).

Linda Popovich Linda Popovich is a freelance photographer based in Seattle, Washington. Living and working in Asia and Europe for several years provided ongoing inspiration for her love of photography and travel. In 2009, after more than 25 years in the corporate world, she decided to change course and pursue her passions of photography and art full-time. Her photographs have been published in a variety of publications in the U.S. and internationally. In addition to travel photography, Linda also enjoys photographing animals, and just about anything that keeps her outdoors.

images provided by each contributor

Candace M. Boggan Candace Boggan is a career coach, travel and leisure industry professional, and business consultant.

She holds an MBA in marketing and is a Certified Emotional Intelligence Trainer.

Candace has been involved in tourism since 2007, including partnership with an online travel agency, and an HR contract with a U.K.-based yacht company. As an avid traveler, she's also had the liberty of traversing the globe and connecting with numerous cultures and business professionals. She has a flair for adventure, and relishes the opportunity to discover new territories and capture stunning photos from around the world. This savvy traveler has amassed a collection of experiences that have led her to become a freelance writer and blogger. Candace believes that the ability to travel and the gifts of writing and photography are God-given, and she adores all things travel-related. Follow her escapades on Instagram at Candacetravels, as well as at www.candaceboggan.com, and on Twitter @BogganC.

Anisha Shah

/ Meet our talented team /

Anisha Shah is a BBC born-and-raised broadcast journalist. Her career highlight is TV news reporting on the London 2012 Olympic Games. An incessant traveler, Anisha has written for leading international publications from Asia to the Channel Islands. Her niche is luxury and emerging destinations, as well as conflict zones, stemming from her childhood dream of becoming a war reporter. This has seen her choose unusual destinations: Bahrain, Kuwait, Beirut and Colombo.

Alongside Jordan, Mustique, Brazil, Peru, Galapagos and Switzerland, these have been her favorites. The year 2013 sees inspirational and unique travels through Myanmar, Ethiopia, Central America, Norway, New York, Portugal and the Seychelles … for starters. Having recently decided to document her real-time travels, Anisha is editor of ‘A Niche World' at www.ani-shah.com where she writes frankly about her immersive travels. You can follow her on Twitter @anishahbbc or Facebook at ‘A Niche World’.

Jo Parfitt Jo Parfitt has published 26 non-fiction books, an anthology of poetry called A Moving Landscape, and a novel called Sunshine Soup. She is a journalist, teacher, editor and publisher who also mentors others who want to write and publish books and articles. Jo has lived in Dubai, Oman and Norway, and is now in the Netherlands. Living and working overseas has made her the mentor and publisher of choice for countless expat writers at Summertime Publishing. All of her expat titles can be seen at www.expatbookshop.com. Pick up a free report on ‘How to Write Your Life Story – the Inside Secrets’ at www.joparfitt.com/freereport.

Jo also leads weeklong residential writing courses in Tuscany on how to write life stories. More information can be found at www.watermill.net.

Nick Hilden Raised in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States, Nick Hilden graduated from the Evergreen State College before entering a writing career that has spanned fiction, travel, advertising, journalism, biography and a wide range of additional realms. He has served as a senior editor for a number of publications, both print and online, and his articles have appeared in a variety of outlets such as Vice.com and The Oregonian newspaper, some of which have been featured on National Geographic’s Radar of the best travel pieces.

Carolyne Kauser-Abbott With her camera and laptop nearby, Carolyne is living proof that there is no such thing as a single career anymore. She began her working life as an equity stock trader and then moved to commercial real estate and project management.

Now, she is dabbling in the world of freelance writing, blogging and social media. In 2010, Carolyne convinced her husband and Labrador that a few months in France would be fun; they stayed for thirteen. Currently, they split their time between southern France and Canmore in the Canadian Rockies. At home or on the road, she writes a food and travel blog, ‘Ginger and Nutmeg’ (www.gingerandnutmeg.com), and ‘Nutmeg’ on Twitter @gingerandnutmeg. She also recently launched a travel app called Edible Heritage (www.edibleheritage.com).

Damon M. Banks With a dynamic 15-year history of working with a diverse collection of projects and assignments, Damon is able to provide his expertise and services to clients by seamlessly merging the worlds of writing, social media, marketing and promotion.

He balances his work at DMB Public Relations (www.dmbpublicrelations.com) with freelance consulting, while also serving as editorial contributor and industry expert to a variety of international travel, tourism, hospitality and luxury lifestyle publications. Connect with Damon directly at DamonBanks.com.

Apple Gidley Apple Gidley, a freelance writer and author of Expat Life Slice by Slice, has traveled extensively and is a seasoned expatriate, having started her nomadic life at a month old in West Africa. She has lived and worked in Nigeria, England, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, Papua New Guinea, the Netherlands, Trinidad and Tobago, Thailand, Scotland, Equatorial Guinea and the USA. Apple currently lives in Houston, Texas. Read her blog at www.my.telegraph.co.uk/applegidley or visit her website at www.applegidley.com. Follow Apple on Twitter @ExpatApple.

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/ meet our talented team /

Carolyn Pearson Carolyn Pearson is a U.K.based freelance writer and industry expert on business travel for women. She is also CEO and Founder of www.maiden-voyage.com, an award-winning global network designed to make business travel both safe and social for professional women. Carolyn has a background in technology, primarily focused on both travel and media. Her work has taken her throughout Europe, the U.S. and India, and she has lived and worked in both the Netherlands and Australia. As a result, Carolyn speaks fluent Dutch and also some French. Contact her via email at Carolyn@maiden-voyage. org or follow her on Twitter @Maiden_Voyage.

Sarah Vernetti Sarah Vernetti is a freelance writer from Las Vegas, Nevada. She loves exploring hidden gems like ghost towns, small museums, and other unusual spots that many visitors to Las Vegas overlook. Sarah is either planning her next trip or spending time outdoors with her family. To follow along on her adventures, visit her blog at www.sarahvernetti.wordpress.com and find her on Twitter @SarahVernetti.

Sherry Amatenstein In addition to being an inveterate traveler and longtime travel writer, Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is the author of three books, including The Complete Marriage Counselor: Relationshipsaving Advice from America’s Top 50+ Couples Therapists. She is frequently called upon to give love advice on many national radio and TV programs, including the Today Show, Early Show, Inside Edition, GMA Live, CBS News, VH1, BBC, and Good Day New York. Sherry worked for many years as a magazine editor and journalist and is an adjunct professor teaching magazine journalism at the New School for Social Research, and at New York University. Her website is www.marriedfaq.com.

Anna Power Anna Power was a lawyer in England for more than 10 years, and now works as a writer in Bangkok, where she has been living since June 2012. In her spare time, she loves exploring Bangkok and, when the opportunity arises, the rest of Thailand and Southeast Asia. You can read more on www.bangkokgirlblog.com.

Additional words and photos credited where applicable. Disclaimer: The views expressed by our contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of Global Living magazine, its management or owners. Global Living has not verified the accuracy or completeness of the content of the submission but has relied on the warranty of the creator as to these factors. Please address any comments directly to the creator.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied by any method without the written permission from the publishing company. Global Media Partners LLC, and all those associated with this publication assume no financial responsibility for any misinformation or typographical errors in Globaland Living Magazine advertisements make no claims as to their promises or guarantees, products or services.

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Jessica Benavides Canepa Jessica is a freelance travel and lifestyle writer focusing primarily on the luxury market worldwide. A previous work experience as the commercial director for a high-end travel company affords her a unique insider perspective when querying publications. Her most recent work has been featured in National Geographic Traveler magazine; CNN Travel; Jetsetter; and BBC Travel; among others.

Additionally, as a copywriter, she has garnered a wealth of experience writing for luxury property and fashion websites. Currently residing in Sweden, following successive years in Shanghai and Barcelona, Jessica's next port-of-call is the breathtaking south of France where she hopes to continue her quest to discover the world. Read about her travel adventures at www.jbcanepa.com or follow her on Twitter @jbcanepa.

Shirley Agudo Assistant Editor of Global Living| Shirley Agudo is an American author, editor and photographer based in the Netherlands. She is the author/photographer of five books: Bicycle Mania Holland (www. bicycle-mania.nl); Fodor’s Holland; Hot Pink; Network Your Way to Success and Here’s Holland (www.heresholland.com). As a documentary photographer, she is also the founder of the Amsterdam Street Photographers’ collective. Along with Street Photography Workshops, she leads regular Photo Walks in Amsterdam. For more information, contact Shirley directly at: shirleyagudo@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter @BicycleMania.

Roy Stevenson Roy Stevenson is a professional freelance travel writer and photographer based in Seattle, Washington. With more than 800 articles published in 180 regional, national and international magazines, newspapers, trade journals, in-flight and online travel magazines, Roy is one of the most prolific travel writers in the USA. His work has appeared in the United States, Canada, England, Scotland, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. He writes on travel and culture, history and historic places, food, wine and beer, luxury resorts and spas, military history and museums, military vehicles, art, communications, health, fitness, sports and film festivals. To view more of Roy Stevenson’s travel articles, visit www.Roy-Stevenson.com.

Anne O'Connell Author, freelance writer and social media consultant Anne O’Connell has been an expat since 1993 when she and her husband left Canada and moved to Fort Lauderdale, Florida, then to Dubai in 2007 and Thailand in 2011. O’Connell is a regular contributor to Global Living magazine and Expat Focus. She is also the author of @Home in Dubai… Getting Connected Online and on the Ground; 10 Steps to a Successful PR Campaign – a Do-it-Yourself Guide for Authors; and Mental Pause, her first novel, a 2013 Independent Publisher Book Award winner. O’Connell grew up in Halifax, Nova Scotia and has a bachelor of public relations from Mount St. Vincent University.

For more information, visit her website at www.anne-oconnell.com.

Marla Cimini As a journalist with a passion for travel, music and culinary adventures, Marla has written for many national and regional publications, on topics ranging from exotic Tahitian getaways, to wine trails in Argentina and zesty garden cocktails. Marla is the co-author of the book, A Century of Hospitality: 1910 – 2010 (McNeill publishing), which focuses on the history of the hotel industry. Her work has also appeared in Destination Weddings and Honeymoons; Lodging Magazine; The Courier Post; USA Today online; Uptown; and The Philadelphia Business Journal; among others. When not globetrotting (or searching for the perfect wine to complement chocolate-covered pretzels), she can be found rocking out with her musician husband, Chris, at their home in New Jersey. Visit Marla’s website at www.marlacimini.com and follow her on Twitter @MarlaCimini.

Paul Wyeth Paul Wyeth is an experienced marine photographer. Born on the Isle of Wight, Paul has spent his whole life on and around boats. He is based in Cowes, a world center for sailing, but he has traveled extensively photographing major sailing events in France, Italy, Germany, The Netherlands, Spain, Norway, Kazakhstan, Sweden, and the Caribbean. Key events in Paul's calendar are Cowes Week and Antigua week, but his work can been seen regularly all year round in leading yachting publications. With a passion for getting close to the action to create exhilarating pictures, Paul is commissioned by many companies such as Honda, Volvo, The Royal Ocean Racing Club, The Royal Yachting Association and the British sailing team.

images provided by each contributor

GLOBAL CONTRIBUTORS

GLOBAL EVENTS

photography by Linda Sharkey, from www.fashioninsideout.co.uk

/ events happening around the world /

location: London, england

DKNY & Maiden-Voyage.com

vv On September 26, Maiden-Voyage.com and DKNY joined forces at DKNY’s flagship store in London for a Business Traveler Wardrobe event. event review by Carolyn Pearson

Alex Bergholz-Gander and Carly Entwistle Global Living Magazine

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Deborah King, Jef Harris and Edd Weller

Bryony Purdue, Joshua Millard and David Purdue

Heather Atkins and Rachel Mugan

Deborah King, Aimee Teresa-Clark and Aminah Hafiz

Managing director of Sixt's Spanish operations, Estanislao de Mata Perez, with Turkish media personality and author Ece Vahapoglu (MC and presenter of Seven Star Global Luxury Award)

Linda Sharkey, Sara Williams and Lori Sartwell

DKNY & Maiden-Voyage.com: Business Traveler Wardrobe event On September 26, Maiden-Voyage.com and DKNY joined forces at DKNY’s flagship store in London for a Business Traveler Wardrobe event. Guests enjoyed an evening of bubbles, delicious macaroons and a business travel styling session featuring the iconic DKNY Cozy. The DKNY Cozy is a chic and sophisticated wardrobe solution for female business travelers, which can be worn in numerous ways (and even has its own app for iPhone). Deborah King, of Caterer and Hotelkeeper magazine was lucky enough to win her own Cozy during the Business Traveler Wardrobe event.

Yvonne Reay-Scott and Maddy Duxbury

Emma Waldron and Edd Weller

Seven Star Global Luxury Award winners

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Laura Borland and Global Living Magazine

Yvonne Reay-Scott

Carolyn Pearson

Alena Moravcikova wearing DNKY Cozy

photography by Linda Sharkey, from www.fashioninsideout.co.uk

Visit www.dkny.com and www.maiden-voyage.com for more information.

Golf travel Resorts & Accessories

Travel and golf aficionado Damon Banks shares some of his favorite resorts and clubs and recommends 10 must-have items to enhance your time on any course.

top left & top right: photography courtesy of Damon M. Banks bottom left & bottom right: photography courtesy of Avaria Golf Club

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ummer is behind us, and it’s time to look forward and begin planning a few golf getaways for the fall. It’s that time of the year when the weather and rainfall can be your best friend, or in some cases, your worst enemy. Therefore, I look for destinations with some great alternatives for the days I might not be able to tee it up, including great accommodations where it can be enjoyable just to relax and enjoy the surroundings and their amenities.

Aviara Golf Club | Carlsbad, California Another favorite pastime for me when traveling is taking advantage www.parkaviara.hyatt.com of so many incredible spa services now available. Most resorts now Simply an amazing resort experience, the Hyatt realize that guys also enjoy being pampered, and in response, they brand has done a phenomenal job of maintaining are offering fantastic packages and services with men in mind. such a picture-perfect golf and spa experience since Spas can also be lifesavers in cases where your traveling partner they took over the management from Four Seasons might not be a golfer and is in need of a place to enjoy a few several years ago. The golf club provides a complete hours while you’re on the course. escape from the real world, and a full day can quickly With fall in the air, it’s time to look at five of today’s favorite slip away while taking advantage of the spacious practice getaways, and the 10 must-have golf and travel accessories facility – a championship golf course which has to be one golf the season. Let’s tee it up! of the most spectacular golf experiences today – and of f o r course, lunch on the terrace overlooking the 18th hole at Argyle Steakhouse. The resort offers several suite options with balconies and plenty of room to relax, along with beautiful grounds and one of my favorite spa retreats in the area. If you love golf, check into their packages, as they offer several all-you-can-play packages throughout the fall.

Aviara Golf Club, third hole

Aviara Golf Club Global Living Magazine

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Cinnamon Hill Golf Club

The Sea Pines Resort | Hilton Head, South Carolina www.seapines.com For anyone who knows golf, the familiar sight of the iconic red and white lighthouse seen yearly as the backdrop of the Heritage PGA Golf Tournament on number 18 of the Harbour Town Golf Links is even more awe-inspiring when arriving to the tee box during your own round of golf. A weekend is hardly long enough to tackle these three world-class golf courses, including Harbour Town Golf Links, Heron Point by Pete Dye, and the Ocean Course. The Resort’s forecaddie program is just the thing for your foursome, providing special attention to make the round of golf a smooth and enjoyable adventure. While there are a number of great villas scattered throughout the resort, I find the Inn at Harbour Town to be an idyllic location for the ultimate southern golf getaway. When available, the Highlander Suite is absolute perfection for traveling families or several golfing friends. The double master suites with great room and balcony overlooking number nine of the Harbor Town Golf Links course makes for Global Living Magazine a12 perfect home-away-from-home.

Cinnamon Hill Golf Club | Rose Hall, Jamaica www.rosehall.com/golf/cinnamon-hill-golf-course While many prefer the all-inclusive resort options when visiting the Caribbean, I find that a destination such as Rose Hall can provide a fantastic golf getaway destination – located between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. Surrounded by the mystique of Rose Hall, the Great House sits there in the distance as you tee off on number two, and you even witness the ancient aqueduct winding through the course that was used to grind sugar cane in the days of the plantation. More recent history was made here with a waterfall seen on number 15 being the scene in James Bond’s Live and Let Die, and you can’t forget the fact that the local Cinnamon Hill Great House was the second home of Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash for nearly 30 years. I will admit, however, that it’s difficult to focus on all of these things while playing this challenging seaside course with unbelievable panoramic views and an ingenious layout. However, the caddies prove to be not only golf-savvy as they guide you around the course, but also serve as historians as they are often eager to share the stories of their beloved home.

For accommodation, there are a number of options: several private villas are available, but one of my favorites for a secluded getaway is the 5-bedroom Oceanfront Royal Villa 86 (www.porticoclub.com/destinations/rose-halljamaica/half-moon-royal-villa-86). For the ultimate service, the Iberostar Grand Hotel Rose Hall (www.thegrandcollection.com/en/ hotels/montego-bay/iberostar-grand-hotelrose-hall) offers their Grand Star Service when staying in the Ocean Front Suites, which includes personal butler service and a host of additional amenities to make your stay with them absolutely effortless. However, make the effort to visit the pool and spa here to completely unwind … you won’t be disappointed.

The Sea Pines Resort

top: image courtesy of Grayhawk Golf Club; middle: image courtesy of Cinnamon Hill Golf Club; bottom: image courtesy of The Sea Pines Resort

Grayhawk Golf Club

Grayhawk Golf Club | Scottsdale, Arizona www.grayhawkgolf.com A unique golf experience is waiting for you in Scottsdale’s very own Sonoran desert. Here you have a choice of playing Tom Fazio’s Raptor Course, or the Talon Course designed by David Graham and Gary Panks. The most difficult decision will be deciding which course to play; you could, of course, plan your day to enjoy a round at both, leaving time for a hearty lunch at Phil’s Grill. Yes, any club that has Phil Mickelson as a PGA Tour ambassador is worth a visit in my book. Phil’s Grill has a dynamic menu and my personal recommendation would be either the Rib Eye for the hearty appetite or, for a lighter option, the blackened swordfish sandwich. I have two resort favorites for this area: the Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com/scottsdale) is very remote, but a beautiful backdrop in the desert hills of Northern Scottsdale; and Montelucia (www.montelucia.com) is a beautiful resort with all the amenities in Phoenix when it’s important to be closer to the shopping and dining options of Scottsdale and Phoenix. I suggest taking advantage of the charming Deluxe Casita Room and the luxury cabana rentals poolside at the Four Seasons; and at Montelucia, the two-bedroom Camelback View Suite with patio seating for eight, and of course the Joya Spa here is one of the best in the area.

Fisher Island Club | Miami, Florida www.fisherislandclub.com It’s difficult to put into words the Fisher Island Club experience, as it’s minutes from the excitement of Miami, but clearly in a world all its own. While most golf getaways offer at least one, if not several, 18-hole golf course, Fisher Island only has nine holes, but it’s the exclusivity and entire experience that makes it a must-visit for the fall.

I find this a great place to work on your game at their lush practice facility before venturing out onto the dynamic nine holes of golf with the Miami skyline off in the distance. After the legendary trade that occurred when William Kissam Vanderbilt II traded Carl Fisher his 250-foot yacht for the then 7-acre island, the Vanderbilt family developed the island in the early 1900s. Over the years, more acres were acquired, and the island now has a refreshed elegance of yesteryear, coming off of a 60-million-dollar renovation project.

While the golf is phenomenal, the beach club and spa are to die for here, and in a class all by themselves. When visiting Fisher Island, it’s an opportunity to enjoy absolute luxury while embracing the island’s history. An almost surreal resort encounter, complete with uncrowded white sand beaches (imported Bahamian sand) and the saltwater Vanderbilt Mansion Pool overlooking the yachts docked at the marina, my advice would be to book early. Try for Rosemary’s Cottage – an opportunity to spend several days enjoying the indulgences of a Vanderbilt. Originally built for Vanderbilt’s stepdaughter, Rosemary, in 1941, this charming cottage now boasts 2,000 square feet of luxury, complete with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. A few days with the attentive staff among these surroundings is often just what the body and soul need to feel completely rejuvenated.

Fisher Island Club

« The 10 Must-Have Items for Fall » With travel today being a lifestyle for so many people for both business and pleasure, there are items that prove essential when traveling the globe in search of the picture-perfect destination where you’re destined to have your best round of golf to date.

Utilizing the modern-day technologies available today for both travel accessories and golf equipment, here’s my look at some of the best available today.

top: image courtesy of Fisher Island Club; bottom right: image courtesy of GolfLogix; bottom left: image courtesy of Club Glove

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Club Glove’s TRS Ballistic Luggage

www.trsballistic.com Most golfers have had a Club Glove travel bag for their clubs at some point in their lifetime. Knowing the strength and durability of these bags, I was intrigued by this new premium line of luggage they now offer. It proved to be both stylish and rugged, and designed with the most precise of details. A personal favorite feature is the ease of stacking the pieces together either in your closet at home or in the hotel room – a common feature today, but never have I seen it work correctly and with the ease of the Ballistic line. Paired with the Executive Backpack, this line of luggage is sure to be a great addition for the affluent traveler looking for luggage that is both resilient and fashionable.

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GolfLogix The #1 Golf App

www.golflogix.com With the constant revolution of apps developed for everything under the sun, the golf apps have come a long way in a few short years. Packaged with insanely accurate details while on just about any course around the country, GolfLogix now also offers a host of ‘clubhouse’ features to help maintain your handicap, book tee times and so much more. Without question, this is the future of the golf app.

GLOBAL Global LIVING Living MAGAZINE Magazine

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Tumi Ansonia Zip Top Leather Brief

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The Shirt Collection from J. Lindeberg

www.tumi.com Tumi has become one of the most popular travel bags available today, and this new Astor Line has several great options for the perfect travel case for your laptop.

Sophisticated yet comfortable for any business situation, the Ansonia Zip Top Leather Brief is a personal favorite. Designed for today’s traveler in mind, internal padded compartments have been developed for your laptop, tablet and smartphone. This brief proves that function and style can coexist.

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Mophie Juice Pack Plus

www.mophie.com For anyone traveling today, as well as for everyday use, these battery cases will change your life. No longer the need to search for an outlet to recharge in the airports, these cases provide you with up to 120% of your standard battery power.

For Galaxy and iPhone users, a collection of rugged and sleek cases is available, yet my favorite remains the ultra thin red case for the iPhone.

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Tight Lies

Fairway www.jlindebergusa.com Woods by The golfer’s wardrobe has been completely transformed this past Adams Golf decade, and brands such as J. Lindeberg are constantly pushing www.adamsgolf.com the envelope on golf fashion. Fortunately, many brands are The fascination with hybrid accepting the challenge, providing golfers with a host of clubs and fairway woods fashionable wardrobe options today. J. Lindeberg also continues, and Adams is has great outerwear, pants and a rumored shoe line always at the forefront of this in the future, but the cut of their shirts bring that movement. Their technology touch of Swedish fashion-forward clothing to the has proved to be cutting-edge United States. My personal favorites are from the for years, and these newest fairway Christer Wave Collection. woods are ideal for the professional and the weekend golfer alike. Since I’m PUMA Faas Lite Shoes somewhere in between and can still hold www.shop.puma.com my own, for the most part, these provide a huge Golf shoes today bring together cuttingadvantage on those long par-5’s, and often the extremely long edge technology, comfort and style. The par-3’s. Regardless of the level of your own game, I highly recommend newest collection from PUMA is one of the checking these out for yourself. lightest shoes available today. Spikeless, these shoes feature exclusive foam that has it weighing in at Hommage Verona Travel less than eight ounces. Already Shave Set available in great colors, there www.hommageshoponline.com is also a rumored release of the Not only a great gift item, this set Faas Lite Splatter, inspired by the

by Hommage makes sure that a clean shave is 2010 ‘Golf Art’ by Rickie Fowler. even possible while traveling. Revolutionary products of amazing quality that are expertly packaged make this a perfect The Pant addition to any guy’s travel bag.

Collection

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from Maide

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Callaway FT Optiforce Driver

www.callawaygolf.com It seems that golf club manufacturers continue to battle it out to develop the latest and greatest golf equipment. As a consumer, we are able to reap the benefits and enjoy simply amazing golf technology. The new FT Optiforce driver is no exception – their lightweight head, shaft and grip combine with the advanced aerodynamic head shape to help reduce drag and increase clubhead speed. This is a perfect example of cutting-edge technology worthy of the most discerning golfer.

images courtesy of corresponding company

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www.bonobos.com Gaelic for ‘stick’ or ‘golf club’, Maide, by the evergrowing Bonobos brand, continues to impress with great cuts, fun colors and soft fabrics. Great sweaters and shirts, but it’s the pants that provide the perfect addition to any golfer’s wardrobe.

Several fun patterns and colors are available with more being introduced this winter, but be sure to consider the great-fitting Highland Pant options.

GLOBAL SPAS

/ relax at the best spas around the world /

The Art of Starting Over: 1711 Ti Sana Detox Retreat & Spa Embracing the ‘health-eatarian’ philosophy for active living

by Jessica Benavides Canepa

photography by Silvia Chiodaroli

A

pproaching the tiny, 11th-century hamlet of Arlate, a short driving distance from Milan, I was really looking forward to a little relaxation – a brief weekend respite from my hectic work schedule. Having previously visited several so-called ‘detox retreats’, my expectations were modest: peaceful surroundings, spa treatments, vegetarian meals and a few yoga classes. At worst, I would have to endure a couple bland-tasting juices. But as soon as I checked into the Ti Sana Spa and received

the itinerary for my 4-day program, I knew things would be a bit different this time.

The 1711 Ti Sana Detox Retreat & Spa (www.1711.it/en) opened its doors in 2011, following incarnations as a hotel with a gourmet restaurant and a nobleman’s residence. The grounds have been lovingly restored to their original splendor; exposed beams, stone walls and cobbled walkways all add to its provincial charm. It features 22 elegant but minimalistic suites of varying sizes and amenities, some with balconies, and others with garden views or breakfast patio set. Each guest is given a welcome kit consisting of a robe, slippers, toiletries and a tongue scraper – my second clue that I was entering a whole new world.

I had arrived late in the day via the spa’s comfortable minivan, available to all guests as an extra service, and had missed the morning walk led daily by the resident physical trainer, Mario. I was just in time for the evening lecture, however, and made my way to the assigned meeting room, following a brief tour of the premises. The speaker this evening was Amedeo D’Angelo – successful businessman, father of the spa’s director, Erica, and active ‘health-eatarian’.

At first it seemed it would be the typical speech on the merits of good eating habits;

instead, I found D’Angelo’s lecture quite impressive.

He was so passionate about his healthy lifestyle (he had lost over 66 pounds), and inspired by his daughter’s own diet, that he closed his hotel and restaurant and let her take full reins of the property as the owner of the detox retreat center. Intrigued, I turned in early to conserve my energy for the next day’s events – a full schedule of gym exercises, a long walk, fitness tests and relaxation techniques.

A Way of Life The morning began with stretches and hypertrophic exercises designed to help with muscle growth. On the ensuing days, we tried rebounding (working out with a mini trampoline) – a surprisingly effective way to break a sweat. Afterwards, at breakfast, I noticed that we were mostly single ladies and a few couples taking advantage of the cozy suites and spa therapies. The couples enjoyed local fare while those of us on the detox program alternated between vegetarian recipes and juicing. The chef, I quickly learned, had worked a busy corporate life before leaving it all behind to follow her passion for organic cuisine.

What surprised me most during my first Global Living Magazine

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Spa Sensations We were invited to walk freely around the gated grounds in our robes and slippers.

Somehow this privilege added to the intimacy of the experience. Conversations effortlessly erupted over the kinds of treatments chosen or why we were there.

Despite our vastly different backgrounds and ages – a young Canadian United Nations worker just returning from Afghanistan, a famous Italian actress, a retired Ukrainian business owner and an Irish retail assistant – we all bonded over our mutual goal to better ourselves.

I took advantage of this newly forming serenity to spend some time at the spa. Open daily to all guests regardless of program selection, the elegant earth-toned spa consisted of an infra-red sauna room, a Turkish bath, a steam room, a selection of shower options and a whirlpool featuring an assortment of jet streams. An adjoining room, complete with snacks, tea and alkaline water, was additionally available for quiet relaxation.

This area also provided guests with luxurious spa treatments. In keeping with their eco-conscious approach, only high-end natural products were available.

From an extensive menu that included such diverse options as teeth whitening, stress tests and cooking classes, I selected two classic but effective treatments: a facial by French bio brand PHYT’S, and a body wrap plus massage treatment using products from the luxury organic company, Anika.

As with all services, the esthetician explained the ingredients of each part of the treatment before engaging me in two hours of gentle bliss. I left the spa area determined never to mistreat my body again.

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Date with an Angel The one thing I really wasn’t looking forward to during this adventure was the dreaded colonic. But Ti Sana proudly endorsed their system, a comfortable, hygienic apparatus aptly named, ‘Angel of Water’. Some of my fellow detox participants had already tried it and were enthusiastically singing its praises. So I took the plunge – and was more than a little glad I did. Upon entering the treatment room, the helpful staff took the time to meticulously explain the process before leaving me to my own devices. The whole experience was handled with grace and professionalism. Afterwards, I felt lighter and more energized that I had in years.

All That Came Before Before coming to Ti Sana, I was sent a medical history questionnaire to help them devise a personalized itinerary for me. On the second day of my stay, I was asked to

present this form during my series of health tests. What struck me as most curious were questions related to my state of mind, now and in the past. Once again, I was being reminded that their approach was holistic in nature; your past is directly linked to all your present habits.

To keep us motivated and on track, the facilities provided a small library filled with books, magazines and pamphlets full of information on how to lead a healthier life. All guests were permitted to take any of the items to read in the privacy of their own rooms. At checkout, we were handed summaries of all the lectures, a light training schedule, a certificate of merit and a few healthy treats for the road.

I had come to Ti Sana seeking a little rejuvenation but would leave with something much more valuable: a renewed sense of the power within to become the best possible version of myself.

photography by Silvia Chiodaroli

meal and throughout my stay was how tasty and filling the cuisine was. They offered no menus; instead, the server would explain the ingredients of every dish. It was not only a matter of what you ate; the time of day specific foods were eaten also played a part.

The basic understanding was: fruit in the morning for energy, carbs in the afternoon for fuel and protein in the evenings for nutrients.

Soon after breakfast, we started on our walk along the banks of the picturesque Adda River. These invigorating promenades, which changed locations daily, became a highlight of the program. Miraculously, I found myself unconcerned about schedules or stresses. I completely adapted to the peaceful pace, coming to realize that this was not a set of mini-cures or temporary breaks. Instead, I was getting a glimpse at a whole new lifestyle. With a few changes, I could actually feel this good all the time.

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Global Living Magazine

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COVER STORY

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Global Living Magazine

Photography courtesy of The Global Party

/ Harricana by Mariouche /

« Harricana BY mariouche »

Responsibly Reinventing the Fashion High Street

By Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

images courtesy of harricana by mariouche

F

ar from being a fashion expert, somehow I found myself drawn to the story of a Canadian, luxury fur-design house. Inspired by historical traditions native to Canada and named after a long Quebec river, Montreal-based Harricana was formed almost 20 years ago.

Harricana by Mariouche is focused on eco-luxe design, by developing luxurious, contemporary fashion collections and accessories from recycled fur, silks and other high-quality fabrics. As the company enters its third decade, garment sales now extend to 18 countries around the globe. With a spotlight on the environment and responsible manufacturing, it is only fitting that the headquarters for Harricana is in a repurposed building that once housed a bank.

I reached the company's Founder, President and Head Designer Mariouche Gagné in her Montreal office on a Friday afternoon.

Despite the fact that her Executive Assistant was away sick, and her General Manager was on maternity leave she took plenty of time to talk to me about her company and her passion for Harricana. The basis of her philosophy is that she does not design as a passing trend.

Like a honeybee moving between flowers, Mariouche at 16-years old had a fleeting interest in many scholastic subjects, including journalism, fine arts, architecture and fashion. As she strained to choose a career path, Mariouche narrowed her alternatives slightly when she determined that architecture required too much time in school, and it might curb her extracurricular activities and sporting interests. Always drawn to fashion but not terribly enamored with school, Mariouche describes herself as an outdoors girl.

While attending the fashion design program at LaSalle College, in Montreal, she entered a competition for young designers; her inspiration for a striking white coat was the Canadian polar bear. Mariouche's submission in the competition secured

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Caribou Sweater - Coyote

Made from Ecoluxe® Materials: Recycled coyote coat $550.00

Harricana estimates that they have recycled well over 80,000 coats, which translates into hundreds of tons of refurbished fur, thus saving countless animals’ lives. her top prize: an internship at Printemps Haussmann in Paris. Her stretch in Paris was instrumental – a launching pad for continued overseas study and a selfconfirmation that she was destined to be zippered closely to the fashion world.

At barely 21-years old, Mariouche was accepted into the Domus Academy in Milan, Italy, to complete her master’s degree. The course alone was $25,000 – before living expenses and food – and she had only $10,000 to her name.

Mariouche asked her mother to sell everything, including her most cherished possessions: her snowboard and her sewing machine. Her pragmatic mother, understanding that those sales would not net enough of a return, suggested her daughter participate in the Fur Council of Canada’s ‘Fur Design Student Contest’.

With no alternative, Mariouche entered the food-trucks and pop-up stores, Harricana competition; her entry, which won second may just surprise and wow customers in prize, was a ski/snowboard coat trimmed the future with a nomadic, traveling shop. with pieces from her mother's old fur coat. Still in the dream stage, this mobile retail Little did Mariouche know at the time that outlet could be destined for exclusive winter this would become the foundation block for locations such as Park City, Utah during her future business pursuits.

Sundance or the streets of Chamonix, France.

Although she studied in Italy, Japan and According to Mariouche, the Canadian Denmark, Mariouche is clear that her home fashion industry needs to re-grow its roots. is in Montreal, her roots in Quebec, and her At one time a country where artisans created vision is for Canada to make an imprint on high-quality textiles and boots with leathers the global fashion world. Influenced by her and furs, it is now a disjointed trade with no international studies, Mariouche feels strongly clear succession plan. Where countries like that fashion should not be intended to be Italy have a deep, traditional respect for those disposable, and buyers should not be obsessed who work in the fashion industry - from with seasonal trends. Lasting wardrobe pieces designers to seamstresses, Canada has relied are born from high-quality materials and too heavily on foreign production. The lack thoughtful, classic design adorned with of young talent is a genuine future threat. playful contemporary elements. It is these Mariouche describes herself as passionate, garments that become family heirlooms. stubborn and a nature lover. Her dream job Harricana estimates that they have recycled had been to work at Patagonia under the well over 80,000 coats, which translates direction of Yvon Chouinard, re-fashioning into hundreds of tons of refurbished fur, outdoor clothing to better suit women. thus saving countless animals’ lives. What She may have exceeded her dream. She is Mariouche and her team have captured at currently teamed up with Rossignol of Val Harricana is that sentimental attachment to d'Isère, France, on an eco-collaboration of a fur coat runs deep even when style and functional-skiwear-meets-high-fashion. The fit are outdated. Harricana has roughly 500 first 15-piece collection includes shapely designs for coats and hats, not including jackets trimmed with Harricana’s fur accents. their purely custom work. The Harricana The 2013/14 winter-fashion compilation is store in Montreal is designated an EcoMusée a testament to the core of two companies, where visitors can take a 45-minute tour Rossignol and Harricana, both tethered to to comprehend the fur recycling and coat high-quality standards. Each outfit is created transformation process. when the detailed piecework from Italy and Currently, most of the used fur coats come Montreal comes together. from Quebec or nearby, but Mariouche's It is not too much of a stretch to think that vision is to grow her business to a more global Mariouche's school project has now brought offering aided by the Internet and strategic her full circle as she prepares to take her investment. With the new world order of company to new fashion heights.

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Harricana by Maricouche Founder, President and Head Designer Mariouche Gagné

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GLOBAL TRAVEL

/ explorations from around the world /

France Written by Roy Stevenson Photography by Roy Stevenson and Linda Popovich

Luxury Hotel Barging along the Burgundy Canal

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M

y bicycle’s tires crunch along the crushed limestone path that recedes into the distance like a thin white braid of French lace. Neat rows of old oaks, maples and poplars form a tall, shady cathedral of greenery for mile upon mile along the flanks of the shallow, muddy canal. Haphazardly dodging small potholes, I sing every cheesy French song I can remember – including Chanson D’Amour and Frere Jacques – plus a shocking rendition of La Marseillaise, all at the top of my voice.

It’s been years since I’ve felt this carefree, and today I just don’t care who sees me acting like a five-year-old. I’m having a blast, pedaling leisurely along the towpath beside the Burgundy Canal, well ahead of La Belle Époque – the luxury hotel barge that will be my home for the next six days.

I gaily wave at a pecheur (fisherman) on the side of the muddy 12-yard-wide canal as I pass by and yell “Bonjour monsieur” followed by a hearty “Vive La France!” He laughs and calls back, “Bonjour”, pleased that a tourist is enjoying the French countryside so much.

Coming to a lock, I stand on a small stone bridge overlooking the canal and wait for La Belle Époque. Fifteen minutes later its dark blue bow slowly glides into view around a bend. I’m amazed that this 128-foot behemoth can even steer around this wide turn, but it navigates it with ease and then slows down to enter the narrow lock beneath me. I watch as – with just inches to spare on either side – the barge squeezes gently into the locks, and the gates shut.

Within a minute the boat rises perceptibly as water cascades into the locks. Ascending an inch every few seconds, the barge is, only minutes later, level with the bank and the upstream river.

The handsome French deckhand swings my bike aboard with a big smile on his face, and I step across the narrow gap onto the barge. “Did you ‘ave a nice ride, monsieur Roy?” he asks.

“Oui, c’est tres bon”, I reply. Our pretty steward, Sadio, hands me a bottle of water, a fruit drink and canapés in short order. I must have burned all of 45 calories on my slow ride, and she’s determined to replace them.

Soon, the gate swings open, the engine thrums gently, and we’re out of the locks like a thoroughbred racehorse – sorry, make that a hopped-up turtle. The barge only cruises at a sedate 4-6 kilometers/hour (3-4 miles per hour) so even walkers and joggers on the towpath overtake us and leave us in the dust. And with

Global Living by Magazine photography Linda Popovich 23

glimpse of La Belle Époque, moored to the town’s cobblestone walkway. She’s beautiful. With her long, low, navy-blue hull and white cabins, La Belle Époque radiates more luxury and class than you would expect for a barge that was, back in the day, used to haul logs to Paris along this very canal. Our crew of six lines up and greets us enthusiastically with “bienvenue”, handing us flutes of champagne and tasty canapés. We’re shown to our air-conditioned rooms where our bags are waiting. Our cabin, with stained dark hardwood walls and rich carpeting, is surprisingly larger than expected, and the small bathroom is tastefully fitted in marble.

1 many an impressionist painter – I realize why the French are so proud of their countryside.

The day before, our English Captain, Anna Markham had picked up our excited band of five Australians and us (two Americans) at the gorgeous Hotel Westminster in Paris’s Opera Garnier district. After brief introductions we boarded the van and drove for two hours along busy freeways, and then narrower country roads that wind their way like ribbons through the vast hilly, green vineyards of the renowned Bourgogne (aka Burgundy) region.

Crossing the canal bridge into the tiny Port de Tanlay, we get our first

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1 It doesn't take long to explore the 128-foot long barge, but I’m surprised at what’s packed into it. La Belle Époque has six exquisite en suite cabins and can accommodate up to 12 passengers. It sports a sun deck, a spa pool, and a galley, touring bikes, a CD player, a small library, and a tastefully decorated saloon, bar and dining room…not to mention two vans which miraculously appear alongside the barge every evening, for our side trips.

Anna gives us an orientation and then we take a stroll through the quiet little hamlet of Tanlay. It’s the perfect introduction to the Bourgogne region as we amble through still, shady, narrow streets. Every building seems to be made

from ancient, roughly-piled bricks and flaking mortar, or stucco. Infestations of bushy green ivy cover anything they can grasp – lintels, walls and doors. Aged wooden shutters frame the windows, painted in pastel blues and yellows.

Weathered and discolored red tile roofs show their age, making them even more appealing to the eye.

Soon we reach the tiny cobblestone village square where the locals sit under umbrellas at small tables, talking quietly.

We admire the stately white limestone gatehouse to the Chateau de Tanlay, which we will visit the next evening.

Even the gatehouse, complete with a shallow moat, would make a respectable

2 chateau for a large family. Slowly, we walk back through a long double row of huge oaks, and cut across a field to our barge.

After breakfast the next morning we hit the road – or canal – and float serenely past small stone villages. The ever-present églises (churches) tower above the two-story houses like stern priests. Trees sagging with fruit and lush, picture-perfect vegetable gardens form green oases in backyards.

One of our first canal locks, at Ecluse d’Argentenay, is unforgettable. The small, perfectly maintained lock house measuring perhaps eight paces by twelve paces, is painted tangerine. The lawn

photography by Linda Popovich

cyclists it’s no contest at all.

I settle in a comfortable chair under the shade umbrella on the barge’s wide foredeck as we drift past golden fields of rapeseed and wheat, and immaculate green farmland pastures. Small herds of white dappled cows (called Charolais) casually chew grass, ignoring us.

Occasionally, a bright burst of sunflowers cuts a wide yellow swathe across the countryside.

Farther away, perched on a gentlysloping, verdant hillside ringed by small copses of ancient trees, a small stone village sleeps, its church spire rising above this idyllic panorama. Looking at these scenes – that must have inspired

on either side of the locks is crammed with an eclectic collection of surreal sculptures: everything from a postman beside a multi-colored bicycle to a lady milking a metal cow, to small trolls, weird clay totem masks, neon spray-painted chairs, funky computers, a green giraffe – all accented by brightly-colored flowers in planter boxes and small gardens. It’s like being in a 3-D Dali painting. This lock was to be our most memorable, although the others (there were over 40 of them) would each have their own charm and character, and I never got tired of gazing at the small, pathetically romantic lock houses, built in the 19th century for the lock keepers, and still

photography by Linda Popovich

3 inhabited today.

The following days blur past in a colorful kaleidoscope of bucolic bliss as we cruise sedately along the canal, stopping every mile or two at a lock, only to continue anew past more medieval villages, waving at the passersby. The countryside between these rural towns is an endless panorama of stubble fields, askew haystacks, bushy hedgerows, rolling tree-clad hills, and farmhouses enclosed by thick groves of trees. And the ever-present white chalky towpath alongside the canal.

As the urge took us, we would hop on the hotel barge’s touring bicycles, pedal alongside, and then accelerate (a

very relative term, here) to rendezvous at the next lock. These short rides provide perfect examples for a Cycling for Dummies book, if it exists, because it’s impossible to get lost; you just follow the towpath until you hit the next lock.

When it got too hot on the sundeck, we retired into the luxurious, airconditioned saloon to browse the small library or chat, listen to music, and watch the landscape drift hypnotically past the wide cabin windows. The lengthy saloon is undoubtedly the barge’s centerpiece and meeting place, with a stained and polished wooden floor, glossy woodpaneled walls and a slatted wooden ceiling.

we retired into the luxurious, airconditioned saloon to browse the small library or chat, listen to music, and watch the landscape drift hypnotically past the wide cabin windows.

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4 Throw in a wide semi-circular couch with the dining table tucked away behind, a ‘Pour Your Own’ bar, another long couch, a couple of classical French floor rugs, and some French accordion music, and you have the perfect place to relax and talk with other guests.

Magically, a never-ending stream of tasty hors d’oeuvres would appear from the galley, accompanied by wine, beer or drinks of our choice, served by friendly stewards George or Sadio. Dining in the evenings is another barge cruise highlight – more an experience, really, where convivial conversations could last for hours, well into the night.

Katy Jennings is our barge’s talented

LEFT to RIGHT: 1. La Belle Époque barge.

2. The structure on the right is the Lavoire, or washhouse, where women would scrub their laundry while kneeling in the small stream. It also served as the village gossip center.

3. A bright burst of sunflowers cuts a wide yellow swathe across the countryside.

4. A street scene in the bustling country village of Chablis, with garden shops, tasting rooms, and cafes everywhere.

5. A view out of the barge window.

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cuisiniere, and has been cooking superb dishes for European Waterways barge cruises for two years. Hailing from Surrey, England, Katy provides an excellent French cuisine experience for the guests.

“I love to visit the French markets each morning to get fresh produce,” she tells me. Having built up a relationship with the local butchers, fishmongers, bakers and of course cheese vendors, Katy happily says: “They will often suggest some choice cuts of meat or fish or cheese or pastries.”

“Our dishes include some classics from the Burgundy region, like Beef Bourguignonne, Filet mignon de porc avec sauce dijonnaise, and Escargot de Bourgogne. And also several traditional French dishes like Champignons a l’ail cognac, Magret de Canard, Quiche Lorraine, Cotelets d’agneau avec ratatouille, Toulouse sausage salad, and Filet de boeuf au gratin dauphinois.” Katy describes each dish as she serves it, and succeeds in elevating each one into an art form. I’m pleased to report that every dish qualified as gourmet, with flying colors. And, mon dieu, I don’t even want to think about the world-class desserts!

On occasion, Katy even prepared meals by special request.

Each dish is, naturally, paired with classic French wines like Chablis, Grand Cru, Rose de Marsannay, and Pouilly Fuisse. And we systematically worked our way through every French cheese imaginable, from Bleu D’Auvergne, Brie de Meaux et Morbier, Camembert Delice de Bourgogne, Valencay, Roquefort, and so many others. George and Sadio presented the wines and cheeses with speeches, descriptions and

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recommendations for pairing.

Each evening we moored in little French towns with quaint names like Tanlay, Lezinne, Ancy-le-Franc, Ravieres, Montbard, and Venarey-lesLaumes, with their own distinctive character. Time permitting, we would walk or cycle around the village, but often were whisked off in vans to regional chateaus, villages, abbeys and wineries, all unique enough to entrance us with their history, legends, architecture and charm – all brought to life by our expert tour leader, Anna.

Anna tells me, “I went out and researched every attraction after being

Hotel barge cruising provides a memorable, relaxing, personalized experience at the other end of the cruise spectrum. hired by European Waterways. If you’re interested in a particular region for its history, culture or art, make sure you book a cruise in that region.”

I’ll never forget our personal roomby-room tour through the Renaissance Chateau de Tanlay, built by Francoise de Coligny, a leader of the early Protestant movement. With its Louis XIII Triumphal Arch, shallow moat, Vestibule of Caesars, complete with Roman busts, corner domes, and lavishly painted ballroom, the Chateau features some exotic highlights. My favorite, however, was the League Tower, reached via a twisting stairwell. In this round turret, a large Italian fresco of characters

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LEFT to RIGHT: 6. One of Katy Jennings' delectable meals, always artistically presented 7.A light salad for lunch enjoyed on board La Belle Epoque.

8. Another one of Jennings' many superb dishes: filet mignon de porc avec sause dijonnaise.

from the court of Henry II is painted on the ceiling. With the courtiers dressed in ancient Greek garb, including a horned devil lurking in the background, I found this to be the most atmospheric part of the chateau.

A tour of the renowned Jean-Marc Brocard winery, followed by a tasting, proved an enjoyable affair. Here, we learned that this region is all about Chablis, due to its ubiquitous chalky soil.

Armed with a large bottle of Monsieur Brocard’s finest, we drove home via the bustling rural town of Chablis. What a gorgeous place to stroll, with plenty of tasting rooms, kitchen shops, garden stores and cafes.

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is the perfect small medieval town for walking, and undoubtedly one of the most stunning. Perched on a mountaintop and surrounded by a thick green forest, this gorgeous walled village is best known for where the bittersweet hit movie ‘Chocolat’ was filmed in 2000, starring Juliette Binoche, Judi Dench, Alfred Molina and Johnny Depp. The Chocolaterie called Maya in the movie is deserted and gathering dust in the small town square opposite the church and town hall shown in the movie, but the town itself is ideal for exploring on foot.

Noyers-sur-Serein is another calendarperfect medieval town that we visited on market day and returned to dine at the following evening. With wellmaintained 15th-century houses, their crooked walls inset with stained cross

photography by Linda Popovich

6

beams and filled in with white-painted plaster, ancient stone arches, castle turrets that have been integrated into modern houses, and quirky weathered gargoyles and wooden statues peering down at you, this town provides marvelous photo shots wherever you look.

A walk through the restored Abbey of Fontenay, one of the finest surviving monasteries of Romanesque architecture, gave us a first-hand idea of what monastic life entailed. The 300 monks here flourished from the 12th to the 14th centuries, farming their own vegetables, cattle, fish, and medicinal plants, and even brewing their own beer … not to mention making their own tiles, woven cloth, tanned leather, and dyed fabrics.

The abbey went into decline from the 17th century, apparently accompanied by a loosening of moral standards leading to some rather un-monk-like behavior. In 1777, Peter VI, Abbot of Clairvaux was forced to ban gambling and hunting, and evict women from the monastic enclosure.

Having been on cruise ships in the past, I prefer the more intimate atmosphere of hotel barge cruising compared with giant commercial cruise ships that ply Alaska or the Caribbean, for example. Hotel barge cruising provides a memorable, relaxing, personalized experience at the other end of the cruise spectrum.

Bigger is definitely not always better. And it’s all-inclusive. We were encouraged to unplug from the electronic/digital circus and enjoy our surroundings; I only checked my emails once during the cruise and didn’t even notice the absence of a TV on board. I had better things to do. Life slows down on the barges and I bet everyone’s blood pressure dropped 20 points.

La Belle Époque translates into ‘The Beautiful Era’, the period in French history (1871 to 1914) characterized by peace and prosperity and a vital resurgence of literature, theater, arts and music.

How fitting then, that my weeklong cruise down the Burgundy Canal on La Belle Époque was unsurpassed for its peace and tranquility – the most relaxing and revitalizing vacation I’ve experienced for many a year. That week was my belle époque.

European Waterways (www.gobarging.com) is a pioneer in luxury hotel barge cruises with excursions in Scotland, France, England, Ireland, Germany, Luxembourg and the Netherlands. The company is renowned for its luxuriously renovated and beautifully refurbished rooms, creative itineraries, fine gourmet dining, and excellent crew selection. Several of its cruises pass through French canals. Its barges are also available for charter.

photography by Roy Stevenson

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: 9. The Renaissance Chateau de Tanlay, built by Francoise de Coligny, a leader of the early Protestant party, with its Louis XIII Triumphal Arch.

10. A tour of the renowned Jean-Marc Brocard winery, followed by tasting, proved an enjoyable affair.

11. Huge French oak barrels at the Jean-Marc Brocard winery, filled with Chablis.

12. Katy Jennings preparing one of her exquisite meals on board La Belle Époque.

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Antigua Antigua:

A yachting & Sailing haven

by Candace Boggan

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upcoming holiday season. This is a great way to win “spouse or daughter/son of the year”… trust me!) Many elect to sail their own vessels across the open sea to Antigua, in hopes of taking home a prize upon conclusion of one these action-packed weeks.

However, for the less courageous, participants also have the opportunity to charter vessels with local companies upon arrival via air. Yacht sizes vary, as well as the charter companies to choose from. The regattas are open to both the accomplished sailor and yachter, as well as to the less-experienced. The idea is for visitors and participants to have an exceptional time, despite their depth of boating knowledge.

Certainly the more skilled participants attend with the goal of beating out the best.

The energy on the island during this time is

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left page: photography by Paul Wyeth this page: photography by Paul Wyeth

he extravagant traveler is always in pursuit of the next opulent excursion. If yachting and fine cuisine are what you savor, Antigua is an international haven for the adventurous and well-seasoned palate.

As one-half of a dynamic duo located in the eastern Caribbean, Antigua is a crown jewel of a destination. This Leeward gemstone is sister to neighboring island, Barbuda, and is the larger of the two. The island boasts of powdered beaches and coral reefs that attract divers from all over the globe. The capital of the island is St. John’s, which is a bustling city full of history, shopping and fine dining. Antigua is also a sailing mecca and yachter’s playground throughout the year.

Visitors come from all parts of the world to indulge in all that this elegant paradise has to offer.

Antigua provides the perfect nautical experience because the coast has ideal weather conditions, with remarkable trade winds and berths at harbors for the finest vessels to enter in.

As a result, the island hosts numerous sailing and yachting activities between January and December. Some of the local events consist of the Round the Island Race, Yacht Cup, Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Regatta, Antigua Charter Yacht Show (at the start of Caribbean yachting season), and the two largest races of the year: the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta and Antigua Sailing Week. Both take place in April and draw participants and bystanders from across the nations. The Classic is an adventure-packed, weeklong extravaganza, complete with prizes for the best private and professional yacht, as well as celebrations and acknowledgements, followed by three full days of racing – all concluding with a fundraising tea party.

Sailing Week is a six-day premier adventure that includes a number of sailing races, accompanied by festivities and awards.

This lavish week has become a staple on international sailing calendars, and would serve as a great post-holiday present for the avid boater. (Hint: here’s my recommendation to someone pondering over what to give your husband or father for the

This lavish week has become a staple on international sailing calendars, and would serve as a great postholiday present for the avid boater.

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Bear with cubs

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bacon, vegetables, herbs and stock. If you prefer pescatarian or vegetarian dishes like me, there are such options on the menu as well. Feel free to order the fresh catch of the day, or indulge in local fresh fruit and vegetables.

There are a number of restaurants in Antigua that present a wide range of fine-dining options.

Many overlook breathtaking views, as you delight in artistically designed plates of cuisine, with exquisite tastes. The island also has more familiar American and European dishes for those that are less adventurous in their dining experiences.

Antigua, after all, is a hub for yachting, sailing and fine dining. If luxury is what you want, then Antigua (which means ‘Ancient’), will graciously cater to your every need.

Antigua happens to be my favorite holiday destination. There is something about the island that welcomes you and immediately draws you in. You will find pristine waters for boating, an explosion of local cuisine and friendly residents, and a stunning landscape drenched in rich history. If you are in the market for a unique experience – or a vacation home – be sure to place Antigua on your list.

photography by Ted Martin

indescribable. It’s lively, vivid and erupting with color. Onlookers canvas the island, rooting on their favorite team, celebrating, and taking in all the splendor of Antigua. If you’ve not had the chance to savor the experience of one of these two weeks, you are in for a treat.

My mother and I had the pleasure of being in Antigua previously, during Sailing Week. The electricity that filled the air gave me an intense feeling of euphoria, as I witnessed all the activity.

There were visitors from several countries, and yachts of all sizes and makes in tow. After engaging in the ground-level activities, we stood atop Shirley Heights Lookout and gazed below. We were in awe at the spread of vessels stretched across the ocean.

They appeared as miniature toys from on high. We were able to capture a bird’s-eye view and take in scenery that one can only dream of waking up to each day. The backdrop of the blue ocean against the mountains made for a picture-perfect moment.

Naturally, after beholding such remarkable scenery, we worked up an appetite. Fortunately, Shirley Heights offers authentic Antiguan food, music and great company, comprised of both locals and tourists.

They also host a Sunday beach barbecue that you will not want to miss. After a long day of boating, your palate will surely yearn to be aroused. If local cuisine is what you fancy, ready your taste buds for West Indian delicacies. Antigua’s most popular native dishes include fungi, which is similar to polenta and made primarily from cornmeal, callaloo, which is often served as a soup consisting of (callaloo) leaves, which are similar to spinach, along with chicken broth, salt beef, herbs, okra and crabmeat; and then there is pepperpot stew, which can include tripe,

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Clockwise from top: The Grill restaurant at The Dorchester; The Dorchester Champagne Afternoon Tea on The Promenade; The Spa at The Dorchester; The Dorchester exterior.

dorchester

The

images courtesy of The Dorchester Collection

Occupying the most prestigious acre and a half of real estate in the world, the Dorchester Collection’s iconic British hotel, The Dorchester, overlooks the green expanse of London’s Hyde Park.

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he lobby is abuzz with smiling guests checking in amid warm friendly greetings as regular guests are welcomed back; a bride poses for photographs and the distinctive green uniform of The Dorchester Bellmen all greet me as I enter through the iconic doors of one of London’s most famous Grande Dames.

Beyond reception I can already detect the scent of two stunning

by Carolyn Pearson

displays of pink blooms. Hydrangeas, cream and pink roses and lilies adorn either side of the famous promenade where one can hear the happy chatter and the soothing chink of ladies taking afternoon tea.

After a warm welcome, I am escorted to my room by James who tells me that I have been upgraded to his own personal favorite, The Dorchester Suite. On stepping into the suite, I felt Global Living Magazine

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like I had walked into an elegant apartment. This suite and the 21 other suites at The Dorchester (www.dorchestercollection.com/en/ london/the-dorchester) were designed by Alexandra Champalimaud in time for the London 2012 Olympics.

With rich, earthy tones, a beautiful fireplace, and the sun streaming in through the bay window, the spacious sitting room literally took my breath away. Decorated with Versailles panel flooring, comfy sofas, delightful antique pieces and an impressive collection of artwork (including signed prints by His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales), tradition blended seamlessly with the huge, high-tech Bang & Olufsen TV and Bose speakers, and there was an interesting collection of glossy magazines and books and two well-stocked mini-bars. I knew it would be difficult to leave after only 24 hours!

The bright, Italian marbled bathroom has an invitingly deep bath, enormous walk-in shower, his and hers wash basins, and a flat screen TV integrated into the large mirror. Lots of fluffy towels, cozy robes and Dorchester bath products, blended especially by British company Aromatherapy Associates for the Dorchester's 80th Anniversary, created the feeling of an indulgent, in-room spa.

Still in awe, I entered the bedroom to be met with a commanding four-poster bed adorned with the finest of sheets and the softest of pillows. The room was accessorized with elegant pieces of antique furniture, traditional wall sconces and more windows through which the autumn sunshine shone, together with a charming window seat from where one could sit and take in the view of Hyde Park. More technology, including a television and iPod speakers, and not one, but three, double wardrobes confirmed my suspicion that the Dorchester Suite is a place to linger for longer than just one night.

famous Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester (3 Michelin Stars) serves French cuisine in discreet, contemporary surroundings. China Tang, conceived by Chef Sir David Tang, is noted for its classical, non-fusion dishes in a 1930s, Shanghaiinspired art deco setting. I look forward to returning to the China Tang Bar, perhaps for a traditional Singapore Sling in the most decadent and exotic surroundings.

The Grill at The Dorchester was our dining destination. Another one of Despont's designs, dramatic murals adorn the walls, with rich fabrics, tartan, quirky banquettes and the most stunning centerpiece of 100 red roses. We opted for the four-course tasting menu, with paired wines. The amuse-bouche of seared mackerel, avocado mousse, and lime meringue led the way for a delicious journey through interesting little dishes incorporating some of Britain’s finest ingredients, accompanied by an exciting array of champagnes, wines, Madeira and dessert wines. My personal favorite was the monkfish with baked kohlrabi, grelot

Built in 1931, The Dorchester quickly gained its reputation as one of the world's best and most glamorous hotels. During the Second World War, The Dorchester was reputed to be the safest hotel in London due to its modern construction, and several cabinet ministers moved into the hotel on a semi-permanent basis. In 1942, General Dwight D. Eisenhower relocated to The Dorchester and today a suite remains in his name. The hotel closed in 1989 for a major refurbishment (the first since its opening) and has since undergone further renovations, including the introduction of a nearly 7,000-square-foot spa.

The award-winning bar at The Dorchester has been under the expert management of Giuliano Morandin for over 30 years.

Guests fortunate enough to find themselves in the bar with Morandin will be entertained by his captivating stories about guests and years gone by. Famous for its cocktails and vintage creations, this glamorous bar, in rich red tones, was created by interior designer Thierry Despont.

Many dream of dinner at The Dorchester, and there are three distinctively different restaurants from which to choose. The

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onions and cider beurre blanc. The new season partridge, served with crunchy parsnip, pears and black rice, was complemented by the most divine Edmeades Zinfandel (2010), and we opted to share the cheese plate which came with English staples such as Stilton, Lincolnshire Poacher Cheddar and the aptly-named Stinking Bishop from Gloucestershire.

In contrast to the more formal dining spaces, the promenade was our choice for a hearty a la carte breakfast. Essentially the centerpiece of the hotel, this is how one might imagine The Dorchester. The promenade is decorated with beautiful fabrics – unashamedly over-the-top opulence in golds, corals and olives – and acres of fresh flowers refreshed every day by the Dorchester's own in-house florist.

After further lounging in my beautiful suite, it was time to head to the spa. One could easily write an entire feature about the Dorchester Spa – in my opinion one of the most beautiful spaces in the entire hotel. On entering, I couldn't help but notice the unique chandelier made from, I'm told, 72,000 South Pacific pearls. The opulent, deep blue relaxation area with rich velvets

image courtesy of The Dorchester Collection

One could easily write an entire feature about the Dorchester Spa – in my opinion one of the most beautiful spaces in the entire hotel.

images courtesy of The Dorchester Collection

Clockwise from left: The Dorchester Suite sitting room; The Dorchester Spa Relaxation Room; The Dorchester Suite bedroom.

and silk is a perfect place to lounge before or after your treatment.

To prepare for my treatment I spent a few moments in the private steam room to warm my aching muscles. I opted for the classic Swedish massage to relieve many weeks of business-travel-induced shoulder tension. My therapist was warm and friendly, taking time to understand my needs.

She selected the perfect oil for me before expertly soothing the stresses and strains.

The Dorchester Spa uses products from Aromatherapy Associates, Carol Joy London and Kirstin Florian. The nine treatment rooms are white and minimalist and have the largest and most comfortable, heated massage beds imaginable. After your treatment you are invited to indulge in a little tasty treat and refreshing beverage, such as coconut water or water infused with rose and cucumber. For something slightly more substantial, the breathtaking Spatisserie in soft creams and pinks is an exquisite space for a light lunch, afternoon tea, bite-sized treats of mini cakes, or just to sip on spa cocktails.

Guests can also enjoy the in-house, traditional barbers shop and hairdressers or, for the more energetic, there is of course the fitness studio.

I love it when a hotel exceeds my expectations, and I was amazed at just how quickly I felt at home at The Dorchester. While The Dorchester has so much to offer, the space is still intimate enough to quickly become familiar. The friendly, unstuffy service and the assurance that whatever your request, the famous, impeccable Dorchester service will always shine through, are just some of the reasons why The Dorchester has made it onto my all-time list of favorite hotels.

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Oak Creek Canyon

Tired of winter already? Prefer sunshine on your face rather than snow on your windshield? Then this is the perfect time to experience the American Southwest.

With sunny skies, warmer temperatures, and plenty of things to see and do, the region is an ideal winter escape for global travelers.

by Sarah Vernetti image courtesy of Sedona Chamber of Commerce

Nature in Sedona In Sedona, Arizona, travelers can experience the great outdoors in all its glory. With average high-temperatures in the upper-50s throughout the winter season, Sedona provides a plethora of opportunities for hiking, picnicking, and nature photography. Try the West Fork Oak Creek trail in Coconino National Forest to experience dramatic cliffs and babbling streams. This is a popular trail, so try to visit early in the morning and avoid weekends in order to experience nature in a more serene way.

If you prefer a spiritual outdoor activity, seek out the Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park where you can breathe in some fresh air and enjoy a few quiet moments of meditation.

Those seeking active outdoor activities will find that Sedona is home to a variety of options: golf, ballooning, mountain biking, and horseback riding, to name a few.

Located 30 minutes outside of Sedona, eco-friendly M Diamond Ranch offers horseback riding and cowboy cookouts. Advanced reservations are required. Golfers will want to check out some of the courses in town, including the Oakcreek Country Club, which offers spectacular views, the Sedona Golf Resort, and the Canyon Mesa Country Club.

Southwestern Winter Escapes

Art and Culture in San Antonio With its world-class cuisine, beautiful architecture, and unique museums, it’s no surprise that San Antonio is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Texas. Step into history at the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park where you will find four mission churches, including beautiful San Jose and the oldest un-restored stone church in the United States: Mission Concepcion.

Art-lovers will not want to miss the McNay Museum of Art, located in the former home of Marion Koogler McNay. The collection includes works by artists like Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, and Amedeo Modigliani. For further art-gazing, head to the San Antonio Museum of Art. This winter, the museum will features special exhibits like Lethal Beauty: Samurai Swords and Armor and Fray Antonio Margil de Jesus: ‘Patron Saint of Texas’, in addition to the museum’s extensive permanent collection.

No visit to San Antonio is complete without a leisurely stroll down the city’s famous riverwalk.

The Paseo del Rio is lined with numerous restaurants, bars and historic buildings. Not far from the river, visitors will find the Alamo. Walk through the plaza and then go inside for a look at the Alamo’s interior and the inner courtyard.

top: image courtesy of McNay Museum; middle: image courtesy of Westin Kierland; Bottom: image courtesy of Flightlinez

The Westin Kierland pool

Golf and Spa in Phoenix The greater Phoenix area offers an array of golf and spa options for travelers. The Phoenician hotel features the Center for Well-Being Spa. Indulge in a holistic massage, warm spice scrub, or an 80-minute ‘caviar dreams’ anti-aging facial. Those seeking more active pursuits The McNay Museum of Art can try the hotel’s 27-hole championship golf v Adventure in Las Vegas course.

The Westin Kierland is home to Agave, the Looking for the adventurous side of the Arizona Spa, which utilizes the indigenous American Southwest? Perhaps Sin City plant in many of its services. After you’re should be your winter destination of choice. refreshed and ready to take on the day, try Of course, you can experience the wild side your hand at the Kierland FlowRider, which by gambling and drinking at one of the allows guests to surf even though Phoenix is many bars located on the Strip. However, in the middle of the Sonoran Desert. Three Las Vegas also sets the scene for plenty of 18-hole combinations can be found at the other thrills. Take a ride in a helicopter Westin Kierland Golf Club. Forget the golf over the Strip by day or night. If natural cart in favor of a Segway; it could help bring wonders are more appealing to you, choose a smile to your face even after you missed a flight over Red Rock Canyon or go further afield to the Grand Canyon. Another way to that last putt.

For a quiet poolside retreat, try the FireSky find adventure from above is to venture to Resort, a Kimpton property. Hotel guests can Bootleg Canyon for zip lining. Flightlinez lounge by the pool with a margarita from the offers a three-hour adventure in which you’ll nearby bar or, if they’ve brought the kids along, cruise along at speeds up to 60-mph while make sandcastles in the faux beach that lines taking in the beautiful scenery.

If you want to climb to great heights on one side of the pool. With plenty of shade and a relaxed vibe, this resort provides guests with the Strip, opt for a trip to the top of the Stratosphere. Enjoy the astonishing views of a tranquil haven in the heart of Scottsdale. the Strip from the observation deck or hold on tight and try one of the awe-inspiring rides. SkyJump offers travelers the chance to leap off the 108th floor of the Stratosphere in a controlled free fall.

No matter what kind of vacation you’re seeking, the American Southwest has a destination that will suit your style. Leave those snow boots at home, and experience a different kind of winter fun.

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Flightlinez

East Africa

Places that touch your soul Luxury & Emerging Destinations Journalist Anisha Shah is spoiled to a fairytale birthday in East Africa. editorial & photography by anisha shah

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photography by Anisha Shah

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our a.m. is not the hour at which I would usually begin my birthday celebrations. End, yes, but definitely not start. Yet I jump out of bed at the shrill of my alarm, barely able to contain my excitement.

For the first time ever, on my birthday, I find myself not within the usual grand and opulent surroundings to which I’ve become accustomed, but in a wilder, rustic, more naturally sumptuous environment. I am staying at the luxury Governor’s Camp in the heart of the Masai Mara in Kenya. I’ve been upgraded to the epitome of opulence, as far as tents go: the honeymoon ‘Justus Suite.’

Located on its own headland – fence-free and in the midst of the Mara’s wild plains, I am literally cocooned within nature’s embrace and, as such, at its mercy. Sometimes, it’s easy to forget that I’m separated only by a canvas cover from the hippos splashing into the gushing Mara river at the foot of my tent, sunbathing crocodiles down the embankment and giraffes guffawing through their territory (reminding me that I’m the visitor). My oversized suite is adorned in plush furnishings that welcome the outside inside: animal print rugs, lavish throws and fluffy cushions. In keeping with the theme, the luxury of wilderness is expressed in every accent of my expansive en-suite bathroom with freestanding bathtub, separate shower and natural local products.

Governor’s Camp was once reserved purely for Kenya’s colonial governors. It retains and exudes

photography by Anisha Shah

an air of class and sophistication that can only come with being the BBC’s pilgrimage base for filming the Great Migration and Planet Earth Live. But what really confounds it as the most stylish luxury lodge is the tented bar serving up delicious cocktails in the wild, with an open-air dining concept.

Sipping a novel concoction in the lap of nature, with no fencing or barrier, is most surreal. One evening, as I feast on a gourmet meal by candlelight on the grounds of the Mara, a solo giraffe wanders through, munching loudly on shoots of trees above my head.

Beyond, a hippo splashes into the river, making an almighty fracas.

And from time to time a curious lion wanders in to explore while on-site guards carefully guide him back. This is as close to nature as one can get, in luxury and safety.

And safety is paramount. Each tent has a private ranger roundthe-clock. My tent, being farthest from base along a 0.6-mile walk

through the wilderness, makes for a stimulating stroll with the ranger in the dark to and from my suite. The safari experience is a grown-up adventure.

Today is my birthday. I barely slept.

Loud noises started in the early hours: squelching and stomping, followed by resounding earth-shattering thuds – entire trees tearing to the ground in colossal bangs. Was the world beyond my humble tent coming to an end? Being fully aware that the Masai Mara lions, rhinos, leopards, cheetahs and hippos are mere steps away is exhilarating.

But it’s none of the above that keeps

me squirming under the covers.

Unzipping my tent, I’m greeted by knee-high piles of dung and a pungent stench. A herd of elephants has torn through camp, bringing down huge trees and leaving piles of poo as a kind souvenir. My ranger illuminates the path, helping to maneuver the chaos in the dark. To my amazement, a cleanup operation is already underway.

The birthday adventure has begun.

Next, I cross a fast-flowing, siltsodden river in a wooden boat, hanging onto an overhead rope to

reach the other side, all before dawn.

At base, it’s a dark ocean of quiet.

The chilly breeze can be heard for miles, whistling through the plains. I’m clutching a hot chocolate in the crisp air. Suddenly, searing red-hot flames light up the sky, breathing life and warmth into the mysterious backdrop.

As they rise, piercing burnt ambers slice through the darkness with mesmerizing intensity. They roar with authority.

Like a work of magic, a large colorful basket comes to life, gaining upright momentum, as fire thunders into the roof of the multicolored balloon.

Larger and brighter than I’d imagined, I can’t help but stare like a little girl, dumbstruck, as crews rush around.

The orange inferno fans my building anticipation. The balloon awakens, as too does the night sky, with licks of dawn pink striking through inky, star-studded constellations. As dawn breaks, ominous dark skies become streaked with optimism of a new day – my birthday!

As the balloon begins to rise, I jump into the basket. Two chefs and the pilot accompany. No choice now but to surrender entirely to nature. Fear dissolves into awe. Suspended in a basket, I realize that nature’s breeze determines the flight path, height and

speed of travel, assisted only by rising hot air. Hanging like a puppet on an invisible string, the balloon climbs above the Masai Mara. I feel the warmth of the sun as it peers over the plains, pouring golden rays over vast fawn lands. Honey, green and brown are the only colors here. Yet, cast in the glow of sunrise, it’s a full spectrum.

The silence of the surroundings induces a profound peace. Just a rustle in the trees as a giraffe emerges, curiously looking up at us before fleeing, or the sound of splashes over the curvaceous Mara River as hippos throw themselves in for a morning swim. Defying gravity,

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everyone squeals, realizing we wouldn’t have had it any other way.

Within minutes, the exact spot in which we land is where Jeeps meet us to set up a champagne breakfast in the waist-high grasslands. Chefs cook up a wholesome English breakfast followed by chocolate pancakes, washed down with a bottle of bubbles! And it’s only 8 a.m.!

From here, it’s straight back to business as I jump into my private Governor’s Camp Jeep towards an endangered rhino 40

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sighting. It turns out to be a stunning mother and baby rhino. The rest of the ‘Big 5’ I’ve already seen from the sky, except for the elusive leopard. It’s a rare sighting nowadays, I’m told, but Natuala, my intuitive driver-guide, refuses to give up. Scouring the trees, looking up for a leopard tail hanging out, and scanning the lowlands for prints, we spot him! He’s a young boy, breathtaking in his rich, perfectly-patterned coat.

He’s sitting by a large log and looks relaxed. Half an hour spent admiring

him perfectly rounds off my spectacular morning, having seen the ‘Big 5’ on my birthday! But it doesn’t stop here.

After a quick feast, I leave Governor’s Camp via private plane from its very own airstrip, towards a completely new country – Tanzania. Connecting in Nairobi, I head straight to Zanzibar, arriving in time for an evening meal at the country’s most luxurious beachfront property: The Residence.

Exhilarated from the day, I expect to recline by the night beach. But, I’m whisked into a golf buggy and escort to the Presidential Suite. A private butler opens the grand door where I’m guided to the infinity pool outside. It’s a vision of beauty. A table is set up with champagne, flowers, hanging candles, petals … all overlooking an empty white sand beach at dusk. I launch into a sumptuous five-course meal befitting royalty and even a beautiful birthday cake. What a day! With a week to explore Zanzibar yet to come, I begin to luxuriate in the warmth of an entirely new experience. A birthday to upstage all birthdays!

photography by Anisha Shah

I’m floating, drifting, staring in disbelief. Open lands become dense forest, beyond which lies the snaking of the river. As we drop low, almost scouring the grounds, we watch as a lioness strays from her cubs on the prowl for breakfast. But while she has an eye on her prey, her cubs are the focus of a hungry pack of cheetahs. Elsewhere, entire families of elephants are taking a slow-motion stroll, and Thomson gazelle strike a dashing pose with their tall antlers, atop earth dunes looking out for danger and food.

We sail through the skies as the molten sun radiates warmth into the savannah. Floating over the infinite pampas, it’s magical to succumb to the environment, inducing overwhelming respect for nature.

Every single person who gets to enjoy this opportunity would feel blessed and privileged.

The pilot, an Australian extrovert, plays on his technique, showing off as we fly low over the plains and high over the river, to epic views. But his skill is tested at the finish line. It’s a dramatic landing as we hit a termite mound with a thud and land on our backs, dragged along in the basket a few meters. Laughter erupts as

Iconoclastic

Curacao If your fantasy Caribbean idyll includes lush, tropical greenery as far as the eye can see, Curacao might not be your first choice. But don’t be deceived by the scrubby, Arizonian landscape covering much of the 40-mile-wide island located 44 miles north of Venezuela. In its iconoclastic way, Curacao – Portuguese for ‘heart’ – will win a piece of yours.

by sherry Amatenstein

images courtesy of the Curacao Tourist Board

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es, it boasts the beauty – 38 magical azure, silky sand beaches and yearround warm temperatures – we expect from an island. Even better, Curacao is blessed by sitting outside the hurricane belt. But its disparate attractions and international vibe (the capital Willemstad is a UNESCO World Heritage City) combine to make it much more than beaches.

Since 2010 Curacao has been autonomous within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

The latter wrested control of the island from its Spanish discoverers in 1634. Curacao remains enriched by its multicultural makeup – cacti, the cobblestone streets of Willemstad, and centuries-old colonial Landhuizen or plantation houses – some built by African slaves from coral, with brick and stone accents.

This melting pot (‘C’ in the Dutch ‘ABC’ islands of Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao) is

home to 50 nationalities. Most locals speak Spanish, Dutch, English and Papiamentu – the local Creole dialect. Allow yourself to indulge in the locals’ pastime of lolling about enjoying the justifiably famous Blue Curacao liqueur. But you’ll want to drown your sorrows in drink if you don’t also explore the island’s colorful ethnic nooks.

Indeed, Blue Curacao exists due to the island’s Jewish population. They began immigrating to the island in 1651 as refugees from the Spanish Inquisition.

In the 19th century, the Senior family began producing the liqueur from dried peels of the Laraha orange, using a custom copper still that continues to be used today. The Distillery, housed in a 17th-century villa, Landhuis Chobolobo (www.curacaoliqueur.com), offers weekday tours. The highlight of the tour – which includes quaint old-style posters explaining

the distillation process – is sample tasting.

The true color of Curacao Liqueur is clear, with the iconic blue and all other colors a ‘trick’ of food coloring. Still, the chocolate and coffee flavors will have you offering thanks for such a treat.

While you’re in a prayerful mood, consider a visit to the Mikve IsraelEmanuel Synagogue (www.snoa.com).

Built in 1732, the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the New World currently serves 200 families. Modeled on Spanish/Portuguese synagogues, it has sand covering the sanctuary floor – in remembrance of ‘Conversos’, the Jews during the Inquisition who put sand on the floors of the secret rooms in which they worshipped, to muffle sounds. Just across the courtyard from the Synagogue is the Jewish Cultural Historical Museum.

It housesGlobal ritual items such as a Torah Living Magazine 41

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the purchasing is best at 6:30 a.m., terrific buying and eating opportunities remain throughout the day.

A few blocks away lies something that really floats – Queen Emma, Curacao’s iconic floating bridge and the largest one in the world. Also called ‘Curacao’s Swinging Old Lady’, the 125-year-old pontoon bridge connects the Punda and Otrobanda (the ‘Other Bank’) districts via a movable walkway.

I don’t recommend trying this yourself, but some people consider it fun to jump on and off the Swinging Old Lady as the bell sounds, indicating the bridge is about to open to allow ships entry into the port. As you ‘jump’, try not to gawk too much at the cotton-candy-colored houses dotting the harbor. Or, better yet, just stare out at the

picture-postcard scene from the verandah at nearby De Gouverneur Restaurant and Cafe (www.de-gouverneur.com). And make sure you try the Keshi Yena, a Dutch Caribbean staple of cheese-stuffed meat.

You might also feel like jumping in shock at the Curacao Ostrich Farm (www.ostrichfarm.net) when you get your first up-close-and-personal glimpse of the world’s largest birds (6’2”, 220 to 350 pounds).

Here you can feed the birds, balance while standing on a 5-pound ostrich egg, and watch males and females gyrate and ‘caw’ in what has been described as either a mating dance or a plea for rain. The truly brave can ride an ostrich. Warning: there is no saddle, the bird’s wings double as reins, and the ostrich has a hood over its head during your 3-minute ride, like it’s in a hostage situation. After the tour, you’ll want a bite at the farm’s Restaurant Zambezi – and yes, ostrich is on the menu.

Another restaurant where birds (no ostriches on property!) greet you is Jaanchies in Westpunt. Bird feeders filled with sugar hang outside the open-air

images courtesy of the Curacao Tourist Board

circa 1490s and still in use by the congregation.

While Jews immigrated to Curacao to escape prosecution, Curacao’s African roots began as a result of the barbaric travesty otherwise known as the slave trade, which lasted from the 17th to 19th centuries. The 15 buildings comprising the Kura Hulanda Museum (www.kurahulanda.com) document in heartrending fashion the Dutch West India Company’s transformation of crystalline Saint Anna Bay into a human trafficking center. The kunuku (slave huts) and graphic instruments of torture are not pleasant viewing, but they are clear reminders of what is important in this difficult world – to treat each other well and to enjoy life.

To that end, a symbol of the multicultural camaraderie of today’s Curacao is the Floating Market. In this vibrant atmosphere you will hear a kaleidoscope of languages. Boisterous but good-natured haggling reverberates up and down St. Ana Bay on the Punda side of Willemstad as merchants from nearby Venezuela sell freshly-caught fish, spices, mangos, ‘white cow cheese’, and exotic vegetables from their small wooden fishing boats and colorful sidewalk stalls. Okay, the boats are docked, not floating, but this tradition has endured (due to the desert-like aridness of Curacao) for generations as fathers pass this family business on to their sons. While

images courtesy of the Curacao Tourist Board

Kura Hulanda Museum

restaurant, surrounded by happy recipients – colorful bananaquits and trupials. Jaanchies’ exuberant owner recites the menu to you.

He touts the iguana soup as an aphrodisiac. Perhaps – though it does taste a bit like chicken.

Jaanchies is on the island’s west end – as are the most spectacular of Curacao’s beaches. The beach that will live on in your dreams is Groot Knip, heralded among the most beautiful in the Caribbean.

Beach potatoes can sunbathe on powdery white sand; the adventurous can clamber up a cliff for a perch from which to watch boats, or as a dive point into turquoise heaven. Once in the water, the waves will rock you gently as a mother’s arms.

Hikers should experience the beauty of Christoffel Park (www.christoffelpark.org).

There are eight trails encompassing varied levels of difficulty. On the way to the 1,239foot summit of Saint Christoffelberg, you might pass deer, donkeys, iguanas and/or Arawak paintings etched into the cliffs. If you’re still up for adventure, treat yourself to a sunrise or sunset jeep safari tour.

Curacao is a smorgasbord of fun during the day, but it really sings at night. There are intimate restaurants like Bistro Le Clohard (www.bistroleclochard.com) in the Rif Fort on the Otrobanda side of Willemstad

and Shor in the Santa Barbara Resort (www.santabarbararesortcuracao.com). At the latter spot, the exquisite conch ceviche begs to leap into your mouth.

The heart and soul of the island, however, is music. The signature local music, circa 1980s, is ‘ritmo kombina’ – Papiamentu for ‘combined rhythms’. It has been described as a mix of merengue, salsa and soca. You can sample the mix – and the grindinghip dancers – at Sea Aquarium Beach.

Barefoot barhop to the nearby Bananas, Wet & Wild and Mambo Beach Club. For the jazz addicts, on Thursday nights the only place to be is Blues.

Where to stay? Singer Prince chose

the out-of-the-way but scenic Santa Barbara Resort when he headlined this summer’s high-octane North Sea Jazz Festival. The luxury-minded will give satisfied sighs at sight of the Avila Hotel (www.avilahotel.com) – a Dutch Colonial beachfront mansion originally home to the sisters of Venezuelan liberator Simon Bolivar. Or you can rent a villa at the Baoase Luxury Resort (www.baoase.com), and you will likely never venture off property.

For more information on the island that can satiate a multitude of desires, contact the Curacao Tourist Board (www.curacao.com).

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Weekend Getaway

Prague

images courtesy of CzechTourism North America

Whether the city of Prague is where you call home, or simply a place to visit for a fun vacation, the surrounding picturesque Czech Republic countryside is an ideal destination for a weekend getaway.

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by Marla Cimini

ajestic castles and stunning chateaus dot the nearby landscape, each offering unique experiences for overnight guests who wish to immerse themselves in the land of fairytales.

Exploring castles and chateaus in the Czech Republic is a truly special experience, and travelers can literally spend weeks getting lost in the countryside of Bohemia or Moravia.

Two standout chateaus outside of Prague not only possess a strong historical significance, but feature guestrooms that are fit for royalty – and worth an overnight visit.

Chateau Mcely For those seeking a tranquil escape, Chateau Mcely (www.chateaumcely.com) is a newly-refurbished, classically beautiful, posh chateau hotel located about 50 miles from Prague. With a professional team that offers exceptional attention to detail, the chateau provides stellar service from the moment guests are greeted in the exquisite foyer and guided to one of the property’s 23 elegant-yet-modern, luxurious rooms and suites.

With expansive grounds and an on-site restaurant, the chateau offers a wide range of activities, frequently

Chateau Mcely

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Chateau Mcely spa

Chateau Mcely holds the highest European Union certificate for green hotels and is a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World network.

Chateau Mcely dining

Chateau Mcely natural bio -lake swimming pool

images courtesy of CzechTourism North America

hosting family celebrations and anniversaries, as well as small, intimate conferences. It’s easy to see that the owners of the chateau, Jim and Inez Cusumano, care tremendously about nature, as well as the community.

Considered beloved locals, they are committed to offering the highest level of service to their guests.

A truly eco-friendly resort, Chateau Mcely is beautifully appointed inside and out, and features a peaceful English park and a picturesque, natural biolake swimming pool encircled by a white sand beach. The property also boasts a well-maintained herb garden and snail farm, as well as hiking trails.

Guests can enjoy summer picnics atop cushions and blankets, along with formal tea parties presented in the old aristocratic tradition. The adjacent children’s playground also contributes to the gorgeous grounds surrounding the property.

The baroque chateau has a rich history as well. Built at the end of the 17th century on the site of a former Celtic settlement above the village of Mcely, it originally served as a hunting lodge and, later, the country home for several European noble families.

Today, rooms are state-ofthe-art with creative names, and guests get the five-star treatment with flat screen TVs, DVD players, bathrobes and slippers, free Wi-Fi, and other amenities. A full breakfast is included as well, and the chateau offers packages that come with a complimentary BMW transfer service from Prague.

This chateau is an ideal spot for romantic weekends or girls’ getaways, and features a lovely spa with special all-natural products made from some of the herbs grown on the property.

Chateau Mcely’s restaurant, Piano Nobile, is open for lunch and dinner, offering traditional Czech cuisine – and an outdoor patio overlooking the scenic gardens and surrounding landscape.

The expansive property offers some unusual features as well, and rewards guests who are curious in nature and enjoy exploring nooks and crannies. A 17th-century-style Alchemist Club is located underground in the chateau’s intimate and stylish wine cellar, holding a real surprise for guests – a

1950s-style jukebox ready to play your favorite American rock and roll hits, including the song, ‘Short Shorts’. (A nod to Cusumano’s own band that made the song famous in 1958). Upstairs in the tower, a cozy library and a rooftop observatory welcome guests who make the effort to climb some extra stairs for a big pay-off featuring a breathtaking panoramic view.

Chateau Mcely holds the highest European Union certificate for green hotels and is a member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World network.

images courtesy of CzechTourism North America

Zbiroh Castle and Chateau Just 20 minutes from Prague, the legendary Zbiroh castle and chateau (www.hotel-chateau-zbiroh.com) may as well be a world away; it is perched in the charming, seemingly enchanted Křivoklát Forest, surrounded by a naturally lush landscape. If you have ever wondered what it would be like to spend the night in a castle, Zbiroh Castle’s architecture and guestroom décor truly provide an authentic feel.

A historical landmark, Zbiroh Castle was built in the 12th century and was eventually converted into the present neo-renaissance chateau. Known as the ‘Three Emperors’ Chateau’, its regal owners have included a long line of royalty, including King Ottokar II and the Emperors Charles IV, Sigismund and Rudolph II. Situated on approximately 148 acres of land, it is considered the oldest home in the Czech Republic and houses the deepest well in Europe.

An expansive property on gorgeous grounds, the chateau offers guests a magical experience and an opportunity to step back in time. Tours are available year-round, and take visitors through a vast number of salons and halls, including a gothic chapel and several wine cellars. Art lovers will enjoy the

Zbiroh castle and chateau

Zbiroh castle and chateau offers guests a magical experience and an opportunity to step back in time.

Zbiroh dining

Prague

Alfons Mucha hall, with an original curtain by the world-renowned painter who spent 18 years here and painted his famous ‘Slav Epic’.

History buffs will be enthralled with the chateau’s 53 spacious guestrooms, as each has its own fascinating story to tell. For example, Alfons Mucha stayed in Apartment III, and his children slept in Apartment II. In addition, Apartment V, which is the renaissance part of the castle, has vaulted ceilings built by the Lobkowicz family in the 16th century. Later, Rudolph II had the castle converted into a neo-Renaissance chateau, and he added the chateau wing with its ceremonial hall and chambers.

All rooms have modern amenities, including TVs and air conditioning; however, Wi-Fi is only available in the restaurant across the courtyard – the castle’s medieval-style tavern called ‘U Rudolfovy kratochvíle’. The restaurant’s medieval atmosphere with dim lighting, soaring ceilings, and heavy wooden tables and chairs complements the traditional menu offering an authentic variety of Czech specialties.

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photography by Apple Gidley

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little-changing landscape to lock all the doors of their guesthouse. The off to find a marula tree for a quick snack, greets us as we head east bush is atwitter with luminescent sunbirds, a monolithic cow turns her head – eyes from Johannesburg airport: bulbuls and sometimes the plaintive call small and shinynd raising her trunk invites arid scrub interspersed with of the go-away bird. Our days are spent us to her home. disheveled townships, and walking or driving to one of the seven dams Once through the gate we circle a small corrugated iron roofs glinting ragged in the on Lissataba, each excursion a smorgasbord pond being enjoyed by bronze warthogs winter sunlight. Lissataba, a private game that delights the senses. Sunsets are viewed paddling under a tree drooping with reserve in the folds of the Drakensbergs, either on the deck listening to the bush intricately designed weaver bird nests, and where friends have their home, is our settle – smoke from the firepit stroking we stop by reception. Noldie, our ranger destination … but first we spend a night our nostrils as we huddle in sweaters in the and host, greets us with a cool drink to at Graskop in a hotel that blends an eclectic cooling air – or on a craggy rock a short dampen the dust and ease the checkingmix of old and new, with the rooms drive away, watching the sun ease behind in formalities, and then walks us to our individually decorated by local artists. the African lowveld in a glorious display suite. Again our progress is checked, this Graskop, once a hustling gold mining of violet and tangerine. Then, as the bush time by a large male nyala nibbling grass center, now offers an array of African throws up nighttime shadows, the Milky on the lawn outside our door. We wait artifacts and a fascinating respectfully for him to move silk store complete with along.

Our drive is sometimes accompanied by a herd worms and mulberry leaves.

MalaMala, a Big Five game Our drive next morning of impala – sleek and skittish – or by a journey of reserve, is made up of three starts early to ensure time to camps, Main Camp, Sable and giraffes – gentle and stately. view the spectacular scenery Rattrays, named for the family from God’s Window, then, who bought the camp in 1964, farther north, the natural splendor of Way shimmers above in a cloud of diffused each offering escalating levels of luxury Bourke’s Luck Potholes – a natural water stars. In this wild and natural place we are starting at ten. Main Camp is built on the feature marking the beginning of the Blyde insignificant. original site of Wac Campbell’s Hunting River Canyon. As the sun dips, we turn in Leaving this refuge we drive to one Camp erected in 1928, with dinners now to Lissataba and follow our host’s detailed of South Africa’s premier game reserves, eaten under the same 700-year-old tree, a instructions to their home that we reach MalaMala, for a safari on the edge of Kruger Transvaal Ebony. Main Camp offers ideal 40 minutes later - our journey slowed National Park. Turning off the blacktop, family accommodation with game drives by giraffe, waterbuck, zebras and impala east of Hazyview, our drive is sometimes customized to suit the age of the children blending into the ocher-colored landscape. accompanied by a herd of impala – sleek present. Sable, our camp, has five deluxe Spread over the Eastern Transvaal and skittish – or by a journey of giraffes – suites with his-and-her bathrooms, for Lowveld, the Olifants River borders gentle and stately, until 60 minutes later a maximum of 14 guests. Rattrays, the Lissataba, offering haven to hippos that we come to a halt in a swirl of dust before flagship of the reserve, offers luxurious, wallow in the natural pools. The 50 homes a red-and-white striped barrier. A man colonial, safari-style khayas (Swahili for on the reserve are tucked discreetly along hurries from a conical straw hut and, lifting home), complete with heated plunge pools the river or into the surrounding bush the boom, salutes and grins as we enter the and secluded outdoor showers. Meals – some lived in year around, some for a reserve. We have found MalaMala. at each camp can be taken overlooking few months at a time, but all are home to But we cannot enter. Blocking our path the banks of the Sand River meandering residents passionate about the protection is a herd of pachyderms, 50 shades of grey through the property, or encircled in a of the 6,000 acres of the bird and wildlife at least; the palest in color is a young calf boma around a fire made from burning on their land. wandering in between its mother’s legs, leadwood logs or, if inclement weather Life slows, and we follow the natural small trunk waving not quite in control. sends you indoors, in a snug dining room rhythms of nature, rising with the dawn Enjoying our trumpet welcome to the with gleaming crockery and crystal on and falling asleep to the snorts of hippos game reserve along the Sands River, we starched tablecloths. floundering in the river. We are woken by watch as two rangers in khaki shorts and Rangers come from far and wide the sharp bark of nearby baboons, and I am shirts, logoed caps and Oakleys, do the and wear many hats at MalaMala, from relieved we heeded our hostess’s entreaties shoo-fly version for elephants. Shuffling following rhino spoor to tracking cagey

South Africa Safari

A Journey of Giraffes by apple Gidley

Clambering into our designated Land Rover and clutching hot water bottles to ward off the morning chill, we head for the river where a pride of lions is apparently lounging.

photography by Apple Gidley

leopards, to pouring drinks either at the bar or during a game drive. Their enthusiasm is matched only by their knowledge and love for the bush, whether pointing out a shy Coqui francolin scurrying for cover – feathers ruffled at the intrusion – or tracking a caracal through the inky night, the flashlight arcing in front of the vehicle, sometimes disturbing an animal alert to the dangers of the dark; or despairing at the ignorance that fuels rhino poaching.

With Noldie behind the wheel of the modified open Land Rover, we head to the far southeast of the reserve where cheetah tracks have been spotted by a ranger out scouting earlier in the day. Once again our passage is slowed by a herd of elephants, the same ones who had trumpeted their welcome a few hours earlier. The herd trample their way through thorny scrub, trunks searching for the tastiest bark or devouring shrubs in their quest to make their daily food quota: over 400 pounds for an adult. They meander through grazing impala for whom the reserve is named, and as they disappear, zebras with tails flicking back and forth across striped rumps take their place, a panoply of nature.

Noldie reminds us we are on a cheetah

chase, and cameras stop shooting as we resume the drive, sometimes on rutted tracks, sometimes off-road, but always bumpy. We are unlucky in the quest but find ourselves suffused in a sweet warmth and, as the African night falls like a velvet curtain at the theater, our eyes adjust and we find ourselves surrounded by a slowmoving obstinancy of buffalo. They pause in their march to the river and blandly eye our intrusion, their horns like a judge’s wig sweeping across stolid faces.

Later, talk around the bar is about a kill seen by another vehicle of guests, a warthog brought down by a pride of lions and, as I sip my chilled sauvignon blanc, I can almost hear the death screams as I silently thank our ranger for taking us on a wild cheetah chase. Dinner is delicious, a mélange of flavors made more succulent by the outdoor setting and the superb service, but it’s been a long day and, as the evening cool seeps in, we head to the warmth and luxury of our suite.

Morning comes quickly at MalaMala with the simultaneous jangle of the telephone, Noldie’s 6:30 wakeup call, and a sharp rap at the door. A smiling, turbaned woman glides in with a tea tray that she places on

a table between armchairs strategically placed so we can watch a family of baboons leisurely crossing the Sand as daylight rises over the riverine forest.

The breakfast buffet deserves greater appreciation, but the call of the bush is stronger than the need for extra coffee.

Clambering into our designated Land Rover and clutching hot water bottles to ward off the morning chill, we head for the river where a pride of lions is apparently lounging. Noldie nods into the crackling headset, spins around and, changing direction, we race along the airstrip to an area in front of Rattrays, six miles farther south. He shouts over his shoulder, “We’re not stopping for elephants, giraffes or anything … oh yes, and hold on,” but he doesn’t tell us why we are risking a broken axel.

Juddering to a crawl, we swerve down a scrub embankment to flat river sands and there, cavorting, is a pack of Cape Hunting dogs, a sight rarely seen. With the remnants of their kill now a few bloody scraps in the sand, the dappled dogs jostle and play, oblivious to us a few yards away.

We watch their antics and then make our way back to the lions, happy still to loll on the cool sands before heat drives them into the shade.

Coming across a solitary bull rhino, we gaze at his prehistoric shape until he tires of our scrutiny and pads sedately through the acacia, camouflaged in an instant. We follow a leopard towards a kopie, and agile klipspringers bound up the craggy outcrop in front of her, unnerved by the feline’s presence, but she ignores them. We lose her, but the sight of her engorged teats buoys Noldie; the rangers had been worried that a male leopard new to the area and attempting to assert his dominance had devoured her cubs. Later, as insects start Global Living Magazine

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their evensong and the bush settles, Noldie casts the flashlight back and forth across our track and we come across a cow and her calf, miniature versions of the rhino seen earlier, placidly ambling along in front of us.

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Rattray interior

Lissitaba exterior

Rattray exterior

Nearing Sable camp at the end of the night drive, a call comes over Noldie’s headset and he switches the ignition and flashlight off, gesturing for silence. The quiet is all-encompassing and, then, an ammonia-like smell sweeps over us as a pride of lions pad around the vehicle.

Too soon our safari ends. We’ve seen genet, a bushcat more like a bushy-tailed mongoose; white-tailed, banded and dwarf mongoose; every kind of buck on offer except sable or reedbuck; two honeybadgers, animals known for their ferocity, which cross our path but fortunately do not stop; and, as a final treat, we come across a scene not often seen: a leopard lying at the base of a tree up which is draped the gnawed remains of a bushbuck.

Four feet away feigning sleep, in an animal parody of Catch 22, lies a spotted hyena, often thought only to be scavengers but who in reality kill as much as 95 percent of their food. The leopard, knowing he is safe as long as his prey remains aloft, still keeps wary watch of both kill and hyena.

We sit on our private terrace, our

eyes adjusting to the night, and hear the quiet cough of the neighborhood nyala, then a rough bark from a baboon; we think we hear a lion roar, glad it seems to be coming from the other side of the river. Sipping the local liquer, Amarula, we understand why the elephants of MalaMala are so enamored of the bark of the marula tree.

While we have had little time to revel in the luxury on offer, we have spent hours sometimes careening, sometimes crawling through the bush in search of the game that freely roams this fenceless reserve. Jousting elephants become almost commonplace as expectations are met, and surpassed. The Big Five – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo – are all checked off, and we drive through the gate, bypassing a giraffe lunching on acacia leaves, and we wave goodbye to MalaMala.

South Africa has indeed been a journey.

Heaven has, I am sure, many guises, but Lissataba and MalaMala come close to it for me.

photography by Apple Gidley

Four feet away feigning sleep, in an animal parody of Catch 22, lies a spotted hyena, often thought only to be scavengers but who in reality kill as much as 95 percent of their food.

Lissitaba interior

photography by Apple Gidley

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EXPATRIATE LIFESTYLE / expat adventures around the world /

The Satisfying Risk of Expatriating on the Cheap The true story of how American expat Nick Hilden settled in Spain on less than $200 written by nick hilden photography by ashlee girdner

photography by Ashlee Girdner

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s we wove our way through paths formed by a series of chain-link fences separating us from the rubble of exposed steel girders and broken cement, I told my girlfriend Ashlee that I did not remember Camino de Ronda being so disheveled, which was putting it lightly. Here and there we came upon a crater littered with yellow construction tape and other debris. Everywhere was the sound of jackhammers and construction equipment. Slow moving lines of people made their way down the chain-link paths as if filing into a refugee camp, or a prison.

It was a slightly abrasive entry into our new home of Granada, Spain, where I had visited briefly as a college student seven years prior, and which I recalled with a fondness for its beauty and tranquil atmosphere. I can report happily that I have since learned that Camino de Ronda – one of Granada's largest roads – is simply undergoing a facelift which involves the installation of a city-wide metro system, and that the rest of Granada on a whole is still run through with a sometimes subtle but often fantastic magnificence.

Anyway, I'm not here to sing of Granada's many glories, but to relate how, and perhaps why, Ashlee and I ended up there. The reason we found ourselves walking through the chaos of what we now refer to as Granada's ‘Third World’ was because I recalled that there was one of the Cortes Inglés superstores in the area, and that was the only place where I knew we could find bed sheets, towels and basic kitchen utensils.

It was a rather stressful moment. You see, we had just arrived in town that morning following 24 hours of airports and connecting flights, 16 hours in Barcelona, a 10-hour train ride through night, and now we had an apartment, some furniture, but none of the comforts of home. We'd had almost no sleep in two days, and we were suddenly on the hunt for the things that would make our new apartment livable – towels and the like.

You may be wondering why we hadn't spent a couple of days in the glorious city of Barcelona where we could have seen the sights and had a few nights of rest. The simple answer is that we were broke – very, very broke – and our last 170 dollars were reserved for food and linens.

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photography by Ashlee Girdner images courtesy of Inn by the Sea

coming in. A hazy understanding of where and when money will arrive is an occupational hazard for freelance writers, but it is even more speculative when you have just expatriated and suddenly find yourself having to make a new life far from the comforts of your own language.

It was January of 2013, and we had decided to drop everything and head for Spain just four months earlier, which doesn't leave a lot of time for saving up a nest egg when you work in the financially-scattered profession of a writer. The whole process had been rather straightforward – we bought plane tickets, found an apartment online (taking care to avoid scammers, and there were a few close calls), then saved every dime we could. I sold my bicycle for what felt like pennies on its actual value, just 200 dollars, but that 200 dollars turned out to be all we had left upon our arrival, so it was a good decision.

I've known a number of people who expatriated, but they'd always done it with jobs waiting wherever they were headed, or at least a healthy savings to make the transition doable. When we announced our plans, all of our friends and family thought that we were either crazy or that we wouldn't go through with it. How can you afford to move to Spain when you've been borrowing money to pay rent for the past six months?

But we had to do things on the fly, because we knew that if we had held off until we had more security, for the safely bulging bank account or the perfect job waiting in the distance, it never would have happened. Maybe it would have, but after some discussion Ashlee and I decided that we'd rather risk everything on following our dream rather than risk the dream by doing nothing at all.

So there we were, walking through an unrecognizable landscape of rubble, my language skills resting somewhere slightly above sub-par with Ashlee's at zilch, looking for a store that had existed nearly a decade earlier but which, from the looks of things, could very well not be there anymore.

To make matters worse, we had foolishly made our move in the middle of winter thinking, "It's Spain!

Who needs jackets?" As it turns out, the high mountain country of Granada is insufferably cold in January. We had brought very little in the way of warm clothes, and we certainly didn't have the money to purchase anything but the basest of essentials. Within just a few days of our arrival, we would wake up to the scenic yet frigid view of the city's snow-covered rooftops.

Beautiful, yes, but hardly the sunshine paradise that I remembered of Granada's late spring months.

After a good deal of searching we came to the place where the Cortes Inglés had once stood. Hm. We still needed sheets.

In my (what was at that time) horrendous Spanish, I asked a passerby if she knew where the Cortes Inglés had moved. After only a bit of confusion she informed us that it had moved nearby, just one street over. Ten minutes later we were wandering through the store, half out of our wits with exhaustion, trying to find affordable pans and reasonably-priced linens. We decided that we would get a single towel and share.

Then we were off across town, through Granada's ‘Third World’, then up toward our home just off Gran Via. We only got lost a few times.

Back at our apartment we proceeded to revel in our simple purchases, simple in price and utility, but amazing to us because they were ours and they were to help us make our place in Spain. This was our new world, one that featured a castle gazing down at us from the hill above … and one with tapas (free plates of food that are often provided with every drink ordered at a bar or café) and flamenco. We counted our remaining funds – less than 40 euros. Those tapas were going to come in handy.

After a while we took our laptops downstairs to a little café advertising Wi-Fi (pronounced "weefee" by the Spanish), and we checked in on our various job prospects. Waiting for me I found an unexpected email promising a hefty deposit and more to come.

Writing about treadmills. Another asked if I could provide something about the Alhambra castle. Yet another informed me that a local plaza was being dedicated to a famous musician, and could I please cover the inauguration and they would pay me later.

Things seemed to be working out.

Nearly one year has passed, and they still are.

Winter turned into spring, which became summer, and now we're working our way through a beautiful autumn. Friendships have been forged, and many a tapa enjoyed. Let me tell you – there is no reward Global Living Magazine 53 without risk.

Expat in Bangkok nitially found living in Bangkok a lot harder than I anticipated. In the final few months at work back in the U.K., pressure from clients and court deadlines made the idea of being a lady of leisure seem extremely appealing. I had not, however, really considered the reality of actually living abroad. As I soon discovered, outside of the tourist areas in Bangkok, people speak broken English at best, and the supermarkets sell a collection of unusual products, from chickens’ feet to processed fish balls shaped like teddy bears. I had also not given thought to how I was going to make friends, given that I no longer worked nor had a child to take to playgroup or school.

As a foreigner, unless you want to teach or you move to Thailand specifically because of your job, it is very difficult to find employment here. The Thai government has very strict rules about employing expats; there must be strict proof that the available job is not one that can be done by a Thai person and, if the company does offer employment to the expat, they need to demonstrate there is a ratio of 4:1 locals employed to expats.

I was due to go back to the U.K. in April 2013 as the bridesmaid for my best friend. A day before getting on the flight, my boyfriend announced that he no longer wished to be with me, and that I should not

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by Anna Power return to Thailand. I won’t go into further details, but in the five weeks I was back in the U.K. nursing a broken and somewhat bewildered heart while wondering what on earth I should do now, I received a job offer from a Bangkok legal firm for whom I had previously provided some freelance work.

Before I knew it, I was on a plane back to Bangkok, and signing a lease for my own condo. Five days later, it was Monday morning, 8 a.m, and I was on my way to work for the first time in 11 months.

Working in Bangkok is very different, of course, to what I had been used to in Leeds, West Yorkshire. Gone are the heels and tights I used to wear most days; now my standard outfit is a pretty summery dress and flip flops. Instead of overlooking Leeds County Court, I can now see Terminal 21 shopping mall and a total of nine swimming pools.

I work with eight Thai women, which in itself has been an incredible experience.

Most things I do seem to make them laugh.

However, there have also been plenty of amusing moments for me too, like when it was raining one day and I was urged to go to the hospital when I arrived at work with wet shoes, or when I was offered a dried fish stick and was told, “Snack you and your cat can enjoy together,” but these are conversations and memories I know I will treasure forever.

I am now learning far more about Thai

culture. There are many public holidays in Thailand and, whereas previously I would read about them on Wikipedia, keen to try to understand all I could about my new country, hearing first-hand from my colleagues about how they will be celebrating and what the days mean to them is far more interesting to me. I love seeing pictures of them on Facebook over the weekends, visiting their hometowns and temples. My Thai trivia is also increasing; I now know that durian fruit is the king of fruits in Thailand, and mangosteen, the queen – little random things I probably would not have discovered were it not for work.

Living in Bangkok on my own has made me a much braver person. I am more open to trying new things – from different foods to experiences – and to seeing different

A day before getting on the flight, my boyfriend announced that he no longer wished to be with me, and that I should not return to Thailand.

photography by Anna Power

I

British expat Anna Power moved to Bangkok in June 2012 with her boyfriend and their two cats. She had been a lawyer in the United Kingdom for the previous 10 years, and so to say that life was going to change would be an understatement.

photography by Anna Power

I don’t believe in regrets but, with hindsight, I wish I had taken the time to see more of England when I lived there. I do so much now on weekends trying to see as much as I can of Bangkok. things. In the last five months I have met so many different and interesting people, both expats and Thais; I just love hearing about people, and what their story is. I am far more adventurous with food – I eat street food every day for lunch. In the tourist areas, most of the street food stalls have signs or menus advertising what they are selling but, outside my office, you just have to hope for the best. I recall I chose one day what I thought was going to be a delicious beef stir fry, only to bite into the meat and discover it was liver.

Writing my blog has also made me braver. When I first began writing it, I posted no pictures of myself, but now I post my week in pictures, complete with warts and all! My blog has opened so many doors for me, from being invited to kayak along the River Kwai under the full moon (I urge you to try this if you ever have the opportunity), to being interviewed by an American radio station, to meeting people I otherwise would probably never have met in Bangkok.

On weekends, I get out and explore as much as I can, from visiting the so-called green lung of Bangkok when I need to escape the smog, to playing tourist and visiting the many temples and visitor attractions around the Big Mango, to traveling to the popular Thai weekend getaway, Koh Sichang, to visiting a 5-star spa in Koh Samui on behalf of an expat magazine I write for. I don’t think I would have ever considered going away by myself if I still lived in the U.K., but here it seems no big deal, while friends back home gasp when they hear I am traveling solo around Thailand. In the 15 months I have been here, I have also visited Singapore with a friend and made solo trips to Laos and Vietnam.

Although the view from Altitude rooftop bar in Singapore was breathtaking, and I really enjoyed seeing the Patuxai Arch in Vientiane, my favorite trip was probably Vietnam. I was only away overnight, for visa reasons, but it was the first time I had ever traveled to a foreign country on my own, and I remember sitting in the Rex rooftop bar, watching over the crazy traffic on the streets of Ho Chi Minh, and shaking my head in disbelief at just how different my life was compared to five months earlier when I was sitting at my desk in Leeds, juggling demanding clients and drafting

urgent legal documents.

As much as I enjoyed these trips, I believe I have learned more about myself by traveling from Bangkok to other domestic locations, largely because I have relied on various means of transport rather than just a plane.

As daring as my overnight adventure to Ho Chi Minh seemed at the time, I had far more fun catching the sleeper train to Chiang Mai with my friends (feeling so proud of myself when I was the only westerner), managing to negotiate a bus to Sri Racha pier using my limited Thai skills (when I visited Koh Sichang), and seeing wild dolphins while catching the ferry to Koh Samui, a oncein-a-lifetime experience.

I don’t believe in regrets but, with hindsight, I wish I had taken the time to see more of England when I lived there. I do so much now on weekends trying to see as much as I can of Bangkok. My new friends keep asking me if I have seen Stonehenge or been to such and such cute town in Wales.

Nine times out of ten I haven’t. I see now that I didn’t make the most of the U.K. when I lived there.

However, lesson learned. I am already busy planning my next destinations. I am off to Phuket next month, and have potential trips to Cambodia (I am desperate to see the Angkor Wat) and Hong Kong in the pipeline.

Living on my own in Bangkok, traveling around South East Asia, and successfully navigating a career move at 33-years-old has taught me that the world truly is my

oyster: anything is possible with a little bit of determination, ambition and motivation.

I have no idea what direction my life is taking, or where I will be in one year or even five years down the line. I won’t lie; there is a small (or sometimes very large) part of me that does find that terrifying, but then I tell that side of me to be quiet and I can also see that it is extremely exciting, and I am lucky to have this opportunity.

I intend to make the most of it.

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Expat series | part I

living healthy the expat way

by anne o'connell

In the first installment of Anne O’Connell’s new three-part series on Healthy Living the Expat Way, she travels to the island of Koh Samiu in Thailand to experience an eight-day fasting detox increasingly popular among expats and tourists.

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The Detox The Thailand detox has become very popular among expats and tourists alike, who often travel from other parts of Thailand and Southeast Asia – and sometimes from even greater distances – for ‘the cleanse’.

“Many of our guests, who are predominantly expats, come back every year, especially if they have an inner awareness of what their body needs,” says co-founder of Health Oasis Resort, Mel Loverh. “They search for it, they value it and they will travel long distances for it. They’re the ones who value it the most of anyone because expats tend to have a higher level of stress.”

During my week, I met several Brits, some of whom were expats, some were not; a fellow Canadian who listened to my expat stories dreaming of the day she would break away; an American screenwriter from Florida; and a few folks from Australia – one an expat who had been living abroad for a year and was a yoga teacher studying naturopathy after a long and stressful career in advertising.

I initially began my research for this article with the intention of interviewing Debbie Nicol, an Australian expat living in Dubai who had just completed her fourth ‘cleansing’ at Health Oasis. I also interviewed the owners, Loverh and Dr. Manta Darnswat, and was so intrigued by the process that I decided to do the program myself and experience it firsthand.

Many people do the detox for weight loss but, according to Loverh, “It’s really more of a tool towards raising your vibration and selfawareness than for weight loss or anything else. The weight loss is an added benefit.”

I also asked Nicol about her passion for the detox in order to delve a little more deeply into one’s motivation for so many return visits.

“I have now gone to detox at Health Oasis – a small and very basic 'village-type' setting right on the beach – four times,” said Nicol. “Some people detox yearly for three days, others do it more often and for longer. For me, I allow my body to tell me when it needs it,” she said. “My first one had a purpose to 'unstick or unblock' me – I had no idea or expectation for the additional benefit of weight loss,” Nicol continues. “However, when I had such great results, I promised myself to change my lifestyle and to watch what I eat more, as it really is about changing your habits. I knew I'd be back if I could keep that weight off. I did two trips in six months, then the third was 18 months later, and this recent one for the 10-day ‘Total Transformation’ program followed 26 months after.”

images courtesy of Health Oasis

The Thailand Detox

uring a recent, out-of-the ordinary getaway, the phrase ‘early to bed, early to rise’ took on a whole new meaning for me. Each morning at 7 a.m. there was a knock on my bungalow door, which I opened to a broadly grinning Tong, whose bright and cheery greeting was always: “Good morning! Watermelon or pineapple today?” It was the perfect way to start each morning of the eight-day fasting detox I had committed to on the beautiful island of Koh Samui in Thailand.

beach image image courtesy of Health Oasis; salad image by Anne O'Connell

Co-founder, Dr. Manta, is a doctor of Chinese medicine, specializing in naturopathy, and her partner and husband, Loverh is an herbalist specializing in western, Chinese and South American herbs. Health Oasis is licensed by the Thailand Department of Health as a Traditional Medicine Hospital, which was very reassuring for me.

I chose the ‘Nurture’ program, and the schedule was filled with daily yoga and massage, which I took full advantage of, along with the less pleasant ingesting of a psyllium/bentonite mixture that promised to grab onto all the nasty toxins in my digestive tract, colon and bowel and help move it forward to elimination.

The psyllium shake alternated every hour and a half with a battery of minerals, herbs and antioxidants. Each day was punctuated with either one or two colonics. This was my least favorite part, but the thought of how thoroughly it was cleansing my insides made it tolerable.

I was also promised that at the end of the eight days, I would be given a flora implant that would enter my colon and replace the good bacteria, which would have been flushed out right along with the bad.

Dr. Manta is like a den mother watching over her brood, bringing out various potions and concoctions to ease particular physical (and sometimes emotional) reactions (both can be triggered by the release of toxins as your body relieves itself of the burden) – or, to just lend an ear, give advice on healthy eating or share insight into the realm of holistic healing.

I loved that everything was taken with lots of freshly made fruit and vegetable juices, unlimited water (actually three liters a day was recommended), herbal tea and vegetable broth.

My bungalow was right on the beach, and kayaks sat at the ready any time I wanted. I swam in the oxygenated pool, and availed myself of a nightly herbal steam. I got used to seeing the goats grazing under my balcony and watching the old man walking his miniature pony down the beach just after sunrise. It was idyllic.

“Every year I escape to a magical place for one or two weeks,” said Sofie Skjold Halkjær from Denmark who had been at Health Oasis the same week as Nicol. “I do it because I have no choice; my body screams for it. I’ve learned to listen to my

body, which is very sensitive. At first, I was stressed about how many things I had to do during the day but, after I calmed down, I really enjoyed it and will come back.”

Halkjær is a mother and stepmother trying to juggle the needs of a combined family and a new business, as well as her own personal needs. She believes her time away and the detox process is both a physical and emotional release and, when complete, allows her to return to her family refreshed. “I am able to reconnect to the kids and create a flow in the family again.”

Halkjær talked about her initial stress levels, along with an upset stomach and fever blisters. I personally had no adverse reactions other than a little light-headedness on day two from low blood sugar, which was alleviated easily by drinking more juice. What I did release was eight pounds! However, above all else, I felt better than I had in years.

According to Katherine Zeratsky, R.D., L.D., a nutritionist at the Mayo Clinic, in a Q&A on Nutrition and Healthy Eating, “If you're considering a detox diet, get the OK from your doctor first.

It's also important to consider possible side effects. Detox diets that severely limit protein or that require fasting, for example, can result in fatigue. Long-term fasting can result in vitamin and mineral deficiencies. Colon cleansing, which is often recommended as part of a detox

plan, can cause cramping, bloating, nausea and vomiting. Dehydration also can be a concern.”

Fortunately I didn’t have any of these symptoms; however, my friend, an Aussie living in Thailand, had most of them but still came out on the other side feeling great.

“Cleansing reactions indicate a healing crisis at work and do not last, unless we stubbornly resist,” says Loverh.

“Healing crises are part of the body’s natural detoxification mechanism, bringing each layer of toxins to the surface and flushing them out as the original cause of the problem is rebalanced.”

“Our bodies may not always be equipped to handle the volume of modern, environmental pollutants and toxic substances,” says Gene Bruno, MS, MHS, in an article from the Natural Health Research Institute, a not-for-profit division of Citizens for Health, founded in the U.S. in 2002. “This problem may be exacerbated by the fact that the refining of many of our foodstuffs has caused them to provide considerably less of the nutrients that are essential to the detoxification process.”

I just knew that I had what Bruno refers

Every year I escape to a magical place for one or two weeks.

I do it because I have no choice; my body screams for it.

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The Benefits The benefits vary from person to person.

Nicol shared that, in her experience, she has seen multiple benefits.

“Everyone has different reactions according to our differing needs,” said Nicol.

“The benefit of my first detox was the shock factor to actually see what I had done to my body over the years … and that becomes evident with the colonics. That spurred me on to respect that which I've been given by nature, and to understand its mechanics, and to realize it's only as good as the care I give it.”

Nicol went on to explain that the second benefit was the feeling of peace that you get. However, her 'peace' came in disguise.

“I always have good days and bad days, like the day my energy was so low I could barely walk from my room; surrendering to that was actually a form of peace,” she said. “I am usually rewarded the next day with huge amounts of energy. I've seen many different reactions to detox – from high energy, to crying, to breaking out in blemishes, to sweating. Having said that, the uniqueness of Health Oasis is the closeness you forge with others and the support we give each other. It may be as small as a comment like 'It will pass', or a chat about how it affected you. You learn a lot about each other in a short time, yet if you prefer to stick to yourself, that’s okay too.”

Concerns and Solutions The biggest concerns that seemed to permeate all the negative articles on the benefits (or lack thereof) of detox programs revolve around not getting enough nutrients, not monitoring for any adverse reactions, eliminating the ‘good’ bacteria along with the bad, and the possibility of perforating the bowel during colonics.

These are all worth exploring, and each issue was addressed in the orientation upon arrival, when the process is thoroughly explained and any questions or concerns are answered.

In developing the program, Loverh 58

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and Dr. Manta recognized the potential downside of fasting, so they introduced a battery of herbs and supplements to counter the loss of nutrients. Spirulina, which is organically grown and provides over 100 vital nutrients (amino acids, vitamins, enzymes and essential fatty acids), is taken twice a day, as well as a liquefied mixture of 22 herbs taken five times a day. The mixture includes herbs such as dandelion (good for the kidney), juniper, parsley, myrrh, cayenne, ginger, St Mary’s Thistle, rhubarb, rosehips, hawthorn, Siberian ginseng, turmeric, and angelica, to name a few.

“These are applied and held under the tongue to ensure proper absorption into

I headed home to Phuket with a whole new attitude towards living healthy in my expat world. the body. It’s more potent and direct, with no side effects,” said Loverh. “Taking tablets is less efficient because, when you’re fasting, your digestive juices take a break, so the tablets don’t get broken down. Most of the good is lost in ‘elimination’. The shake is mixed with juice to sustain your blood sugar level so your body doesn’t go into crisis mode.”

The little pink basket that was assigned to me on day one also included guarana for extra energy, chlorophyll to accelerate blood cleansing, colloidal silver to boost the immune system, and ocean trace minerals.

Trust I felt confident that the all-natural process that had been developed by Loverh and Dr. Manta over the past 20 years of documented experimentation, with a scientific approach to fine-tuning ‘the cleanse’, could only be good for me and cause me no harm. And, I was thankful that ‘the basket’ came with a very detailed schedule of what to take and when, with plenty of staff on hand to clear up any confusion.

According to Loverh, fasting is a form of healing that affects every part of you, from the physical to the emotional and mental – and even spiritual. It provides a feeling of clarity, working on an emotional level, and makes your organs work in a more efficient way.

Evolution Health Oasis was founded by Loverh and Dr. Manta in 1997 as a healing center, health community and alternative

school that welcomed any practitioner who wanted to live on the grounds and contribute whatever healing modality was their specialty.

“You were meant to fulfill yourself and be inspired to live a balanced life with everyone contributing their expertise,” recollected Loverh. “I had no idea it was going to get popular. It was my personal practice, nothing else, and I studied the different healing modalities for my own benefit.”

Sixteen years later, it has evolved into a cleansing and detox holiday escape mostly for expats living in Asia, but also attracting tourists from the U.K., Australia and even as far away as the United States. When the resort first opened, the guests were predominantly female (90/10) and now the mix is about 50/50.

Programs are three, five, eight, and ten days or longer. “The repair you’ve done in 10 days will change your life,” claims Loverh. “The change is deep, dramatic and irreversible. Once you’ve taken this step, you can’t undo the good that’s been done.”

Staying Healthy Loverh emphasizes that the secret to staying healthy after ‘the cleanse’ is not to be too strict and deny yourself. If you do and then you cheat, you feel terribly guilty. He advises guests to empower themselves to let go occasionally, and to take responsibility for their choices without being ignorant. “The inner conflict is a worse energy than the bad food or habit could ever be,” he says.

“The measure for me,” says Nicol, “is when I get back on the airplane headed home and look at the bread roll and think – I don't need that. That tells me I'm feeling a lot more respect for my body.”

The selection of spas and detox facilities throughout Thailand are absolutely endless, from the rustic, family-operated Health Oasis to the five-star luxury of Absolute Sanctuary, both located on Koh Samui. There are also many options in Phuket, Chang Mai and even Bangkok, if you prefer the big-city atmosphere.

Although my eight days were up, I could have continued. I felt refreshed and clear-headed. Armed with my ‘after-fast eating plan’, I headed home to Phuket with a whole new attitude towards living healthy in my expat world. I will not scold myself if I give in to temptation but will regularly include a fruit-fasting day to re-set the clock and also look forward to my next fasting detox.

images courtesy of La Residencia

to as ‘toxic overload’. As I learned about the process, and heard more anecdotal feedback from people who had done the detox, no amount of western medicine’s skepticism could dissuade me. I believed, as Bruno indicated, that my body needed a little assistance.

the Dual Citizenship Transformation

of Expats to Global Citizens

I

’ll be honest … I haven’t had a true experience of living as an expatriate, or as it’s referred to in its more savvy term, an ‘expat’. In my passionate lust for traveling the world, I have only just begun. My start hasn’t been too shabby, however. Coming from a family that is ethnically diverse helps a great deal.

My dad is Scottish-Irish from Pennsylvania, where I was born, and my mother is from the Dominican Republic, where we would visit throughout my childhood. I grew up in central Florida so, as you can see, my family is spread out and my travels began as a baby.

Fast forward to today and, as a 31-year-old woman, my dream of living back and forth between my American home-base of Denver and the country of Spain is actually coming true … and pleasantly quicker than I ever expected.

I’m not alone in this lifestyle pursuit, and the concept of an international community of global citizens is being realized by more and more people, especially travel-lovers. One of the ways this is evolving today is through the variety of options for obtaining dual citizenship; this means that for many of us, our global living dreams are becoming reality.

Perhaps you’ve found yourself saying this and hearing it from others: “Our world is getting smaller and smaller.” While technology is aiding this in a futuristic fashion resembling Hollywood movies, it still has to do with

image courtesy of Amalia Maloney Del Riego

Depending on the country, dual citizenship can come with fees, tax issues, and family and lifestyle challenges. governments and, most importantly, our passion to travel and experience the world.

This attributes to the culture of the expats who re-establish their lives in a country not of their origin of birth or citizenship.

Are you an expat? Do you know any expats?

Although I am not an expat by definition, I know many people who are, and my lifestyle is indeed similar. From what I have learned in my travels, one of the hardest things to deal with as an expat are the laws of how to remain for long periods of time in the country of your dreams. Because of this, many expats are looking for ways that dual citizenship can

by Amalia Maloney Del Riego

be gained. Since laws are always changing, I believe the possibilities are expansive.

From Personal Experience My personal journey of obtaining dual citizenship is fairly unique to the different options available in many countries. It is quite the story of history and family generations past. My grandfather on my mother’s side was from Spain and, since he fought against the Franco regime in the Spanish Civil War, he was exiled to the Dominican Republic. In 2007, the Ley de la Memoria Historica (Law of Historical Memory) was established in Spain as a process that allowed for descendants of Spaniards killed and exiled by the Franco Regime to apply for Spanish citizenship. I applied as a descendant of a Spanish national and, while my application took about two years to process, for my younger brothers it took only about six to eight months. Now, I not only have a European Union Spanish passport and Spanish residency card, but even a Spanish birth certificate. Did I have to denounce my American nationality? I did not. The United States, along with a few other countries such as the U.K., Australia and Switzerland, has no restrictions for holding dual nationality.

Aside from the logistics of applying, my experience has encountered a lot of controversial sentiments from differing segments of the Spanish culture. Many political parties and people in Spain are against this law and opportunity. Even though the application deadline was December 2011 and submissions can no longer be made, it continues to evoke the larger issue of obtaining retroactive justice for unresolved war atrocities of the past. Naturally, there are those who believe the law goes too far, and those who believe it does not go far enough.

I have been fortunate to not encounter any in-person hostility but, during my times living in Spain, many people have confirmed that anger about these issues is fuming just below the surface. Even today, it is one of several factors contributing to the country being politically and socially divided. While some locals may not be happy about my dual citizenship, I can understand and respect

where they are coming from, while still enjoying and embracing their culture and country as one of my own. For me, it is a gift and an opportunity for my family and me to honor our legacy and loved ones.

Possibilities for You Having dual nationality can sound really glamorous, so while you may be drawn to it for valid and downright fun reasons, make sure that you consider the not-so-fun aspects as well. There are many people who seek dual nationality because life circumstances such as marriage or work deem it so. Depending on the country, it can come with fees, tax issues, and family and lifestyle challenges.

So it’s important to clarify for yourself why you want or need dual citizenship in the first place.

Countries such as St. Kitts, Austria and Portugal offer citizenship by investment programs, with stipulations varying from a minimum number of years in residency and real estate investment to financial capital options and fast processing of your passport.

Spain’s ‘dual nationality through real estate investment’ is no longer available; such a program can only be obtained in other Latin countries. Be aware of the discrepancies that exist and vary from country to country. For example, it is said about many countries, including Spain, that you are required to denounce your U.S. or original nationality.

Currently this is true but, in the case of the U.S., such action is not actually recognized or effective unless denounced in-person before the appropriate U.S. government representative. In light of overwhelming amounts of information online, I recommend referring to the government websites.

If your dreams or needs are taking you down the path of dual citizenship, the one word of advice I have for you is this: TIME. Be ready to put time into conducting research so that you are properly prepared for going through the application process for dual citizenship with the country of your choice.

While dual citizenship is not the only way we can enjoy global living, I can attest to the fact that it can certainly enhance the experience.

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BOOK REVIEWS FIVE OF THE BEST...

Column created by Jo Parfitt www.summertimepublishing.com www.expatbookshop.com

expat fiction compiled bY Shelley Antscherl

In this section of Global Living magazine, we feature five examples of good books in a specific genre.

In this issue of Global Living, we look at five expat fiction books.

If you would like to suggest books for review in this section, please contact: Jo@summertimepublishing.com.

Bride Flight

Sleeping People Lie

Jae De Wylde | Summertime Publishing $12.15 Reading this novel is like being the prying eyes in a twisted tale set in the City of Love, and I closed the book feeling like I had been transported to the streets of Paris. Intrigued to find out who the mysterious ‘Em’ was and how they were so important to the story, I found myself absorbed in the events unfolding and feeling compassion for the characters as their personalities were brought to life and their “he said; she said” tales played out. Throughout the book it was hard to choose the side of one character and stay there. The intricate descriptions of several locations were beautifully detailed and clearly showed that the author Jae De Wylde is a seasoned world traveler. Graphic and introspective throughout, it was great getting stuck in Sleeping People Lie – a perfect escape from life’s daily grind. Review by Kelly Singular (www.burpqueen.wordpress.com)

Sunshine Soup

Jo Parfitt | Summertime Publishing $13.99 From the well-seasoned global traveler and prolific author of non-fiction books, Jo Parfitt, is a new story about expat life: Sunshine Soup. The narrative centers on Maya, who leaves her well-loved and established life in England to embark on her first posting as a trailing spouse in Dubai. For Maya, the loss of friends, job and familiar routines spurns a period of struggle as her self-esteem takes a dive. Coming to her rescue is a small group of experienced expat women led by the incorrigible Texan, Barb. Consequent to developing new friendships with these women, Maya is able to rediscover what it takes to give her life the meaning she needs to be happy and satisfied in Dubai. This is a cautionary tale about the inner strength required to survive an expat posting as the non-earning partner. Featured is the inherent support that the women give to one another, regardless of their individual background, culture or situation. Finally, by including universal topics like family, marital and extra-marital relationships, friendship, loss, teenagers, and delectable food (recipes included) – Sunshine Soup becomes a book for all women. Review by Ana McGinley (www.anamcginley.blogspot.ca) 60

Global Living Magazine

The Expats

Chris Pavone | Crown Publishers $26.00 Crime isn't usually a genre for me, but the title of Chris Pavone's novel grabbed me for obvious reasons. Pavone, an American, had not only been an expatriate himself, but, like Alan Paul, who wrote Big in China, he was also the house-husband, which intrigued me. And, just to show he was no newbie writer, he also made his protagonist a woman, Kate Moore, who is a former spy living abroad.

I have not met any expat wives who used to be spies in my 25 years abroad, but maybe it's not the kind of thing they'd shout about? Regardless, this was a well-plotted, hard-to-put-down book tackling unusual (for an expat novel) subjects, such as cyber theft and stalking. Review

by Jo Parfitt (www.joparfitt.com)

Hanoi Jane

Elka Ray | Marshall Cavendish Asian Chic $12.21 A first novel from an expat based in Vietnam (who also writes and illustrates children's stories) was published by Marshall Cavendish's Asian Chic imprint. Set in Vietnam, it tells the story of an American journalist who finds her fiancé in bed with a local troublemaker called Lindy. With the wedding planned, Jane's awful parents come and stay anyway, while Jane is determined to discover the truth behind the three-timing bed-sharer who has ruined her life.

Fast-paced, it has a cast of larger-than-life characters, such as Sigrid, who rides a scooter and knows all the best places to have a party. Together with her new friend, Jane gets tangled in some murky business as she tries to unravel the mystery. This light-hearted novel was a lot of fun. Review by Jo Parfitt (www.joparfitt.com)

book cover art courtesy of listed publishers

Marieke van der Pol | Portabello Books $12.95 Originally written in Dutch and expertly translated by Colleen Higgins, this fascinating story is based on real events. It has also been made into a film, which proves, I think, that it's a good one. Based on what was known as the Bride Flight, this book tells of a group of young men and women who randomly ended up flying to their new lives on that plane. Young, beautiful, Ada, pregnant at 18 by a man she hardly knew and doubted she even liked very much; vivacious, ambitious Esther; sensible Marjorie; and attractive Frank lead us into a compelling story of hope, dashed dreams, unhappiness and yearning. But the expat theorist discovers that it is also a story of young people adapting to new homes in a harsh environment and tells of culture shock and homesickness. Typically, while some embrace their new lives, others cling to the familiar. Review by Jo Parfitt (www.joparfitt.com)

MOVING OR NEW TO DUBAI? Get yourself connected and feel right @Home!

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