Issue 7

Global Living

issue 7 | June/July/August 2013

Living Luxuriously, Worldwide

magazine

Santa Fe, new mexico

A Guide to Savoring the Many Treasures in the Land of Enchantment

altruistic expats: Part III Antarctica & Australia Eleanor Land | Winston Bent Forester

Expressions of ethiopia

Exploring the Vibrant Culture and Traditions of this Deep-rooted Nation

Cover: scottsdale, arizona Go Beyond the Southwestern Cuisine and Discover a Different Side of Scottsdale

The Summer Issue

idyllic travel spots, Exclusive Hotels & Resorts, and hot summer adventures for the luxurious traveler

A Global Media Partners LLC Publication www.GlobalLivingMagazine.com

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR alison cavatore

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e’re excited to present you with our first official Summer Issue of Global Living! This issue covers June, July and August 2013 and offers plenty of summer adventures, travel features and expat stories that will be perfect for getting you in the mood for the season.

Whether you have three months or three days to travel this summer, you can make the most of your destination by planning ahead and knowing what to expect from wherever you’re going. Our contributors have put together some amazing travel options, with great advice on what to see and do in some fabulous locations, including Scottsdale, Arizona (p. 30), Santa Fe, New Mexico (p. 16), Ethiopia (p. 20), and more.

We also take a look inside the exclusive Rockliffe Hall hotel in England (p. 28) and introduce you to designer Emily Tonkin (p. 9), who has created stylish, comfortable and absorbent tennis gear for women who plan on hitting the courts this summer.

For expats, summer can be a great time to discover your newfound home and its neighboring lands, so we

encourage everyone to give in to their sense of exploration and get to know new cultures, traditions and countries. We have also put together a great selection of expat stories that include finding your identity as a trailing spouse (p. 42), maintaining friendships across borders (p. 40), and searching for familiar comforts of home in a new country (p. 39). The third part of Anne O’Connell’s three-part series, Altruistic Expats (p. 36), is also included in this issue, and we encourage you to be inspired by her stories of expats in Antarctica and Australia who are doing wonderful things in their adopted countries in an effort to give back.

Of course, no summer issue would be complete without previewing an exclusive event – especially one as international and sophisticated as The Global Party (p. 12), which will take place in June and bring together 360,000 guests in 120+ cities around the world at 360 exclusive venues to raise awareness and money for 360+ local children’s charities.

This summer I too will be traveling and I look forward to sharing some of my adventures with you as I go along. In the meantime, be sure to follow us on Twitter (@GlobalLivingMag) and Facebook for all the latest travel and lifestyle news from around the globe!

In the meantime, enjoy this issue and KEEP TRAVELING!

Alison Cavatore Founder, CEO & Editor-in-Chief, Global Living Magazine

The Pantheon in Washington, DC on a beautiful sunny day.

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Editor's Social Cor

ner

Join us on Twitter @GlobalLivingMag or @AlisonCavatore

INSIDER ACCESS: Alison's D.C. moments captured on Instagram.

Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure, Washington, DC. (Twitter: @KomenfortheCure)

Roast prime rib full cut at The Prime Rib, Washington, DC. (Twitter: @ThePrimeRibInc)

Colorful kayaks at the waterfront in Georgetown, DC.

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INSIDE GLOBAL LIVING contents

4 Letter from the Editor Alison Cavatore

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7 Contributors

Meet our talented team from around the world.

GLOBAL STYLE

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9 Emily tonkin

Jetsetter fashion and accessories from top global brands.

GLOBAL EVENTS

12 The global party

Exclusive events around the world.

TRAVEL

14 Glamping

Luxury camping sites in the U.S., Asia, Africa and Europe.

16 Santa Fe, New mexico A guide to savoring the many treasures in the land of enchantment.

20 ethiopia

Exploring the many expressions of the vibrant African culture and traditions.

28 hotel review

Rockliffe Hall Hotel, Golf and Spa.

30 scottsdale, arizona

June/July/August 2013 Follow us:

Facebook.com/GlobalLivingMagazine Twitter.com/GlobalLivingMag Pinterest.com/GlobalLivingMag GlobalLivingMagazine.com Living Luxuriously, Worldwide

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Cover Story: Beyond southwestern cuisine - A taste of Scottsdale.

35 Aida makoto

School Girls: The Aida Makoto interview.

EXPATRIATE LIFESTYLE 36 expats giving back

Antarctica & Australia: Part III of a three-part series on altruistic expatriates.

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39 there's no 'T' in Canada

One expat woman's search for the perfect 'cuppa'.

40 friendships across borders

Maintaining important relationships despite geographical distance.

42 trailing spouses

The changing faces of a trailing spouse – finding your identity.

48 Book reviews: Country guides

Jo Parfitt's ongoing column recommending the best books for expats.

On the Cover:

Four Seasons Scottsdale Woman in Sedona Suite's plunge pool Image by Mary Nichols

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GLOBAL CONTRIBUTORS Meet our talented team

Nichole Esparon

Anisha Shah

images provided by each contributor

Anisha Shah is a BBC born-andraised broadcast journalist.

Her career highlight is TV news reporting on the London 2012 Olympic Games. An incessant traveler, Anisha has written for leading international publications from Asia to the Channel Islands.

Her niche is luxury and emerging destinations and conflict zones, stemming from her childhood dream of becoming a war reporter.

This has seen her choose unusual destinations: Bahrain, Kuwait, Beirut and Colombo. Alongside Jordan, Mustique, Brazil, Peru, Galapagos and Switzerland, these have been her favorites. The year 2013 sees inspirational and unique travels through Myanmar, Ethiopia, Central America, Norway, New York, Portugal and the Seychelles … for starters. Having recently decided to document her realtime travels, Anisha is editor of ‘A Niche World' at www.ani-shah.com where she writes frankly about her immersive travels. You can follow her on Twitter @anishahbbc or Facebook at ‘A Niche World’.

Nichole Esparon is the Founder and Chief Executive of Provisita.

Provisita helps relocating families to integrate – socially and professionally – into their host location. They work with some of the largest global employers to ensure that relocating families receive the precise assistance they need to achieve a positive relocation experience. For employers, that means significantly improved chances of a successful international assignment. To find out more, visit: www.provisita.com.

Ryan Roth

Jo Parfitt

Jo Parfitt has published 26 nonfiction books, an anthology of poetry called A Moving Landscape, and a novel called Sunshine Soup. She is a journalist, teacher, editor and publisher who also mentors others who want to write and publish books and articles. Jo has lived in Dubai, Oman and Norway, and is now in the Netherlands. Living and working overseas has made her the mentor and publisher of choice for countless expat writers at Summertime Publishing. All of her expat titles can be seen at: www.expatbookshop.com.

Pick up a free report on ‘How to Write Your Life Story – the Inside Secrets’ at: www.joparfitt.com/freereport. Jo also leads weeklong residential writing courses in Tuscany on how to write life stories. More information can be found at: www.watermill.net.

Ryan Roth has been bouncing around the globe for over 10 years, living in London, Paris, Auckland, Tokyo, Los Angeles and Bangkok. He sits on the board of directors for a film festival, writes for approximately seven publications about art, culture and travel, all while running an art management company and launching a travel company later this year. He has a thirst for adventure sports, will be creating his first piece of public art work in 2015, and is recognized as one of the top 500 cultural influencers in the world to watch out for. Check out his website: www.ryan-roth.com, or contact him directly at ryan@roth-mgmt.com.

Carolyn Pearson

Carolyn Pearson is a U.K.-based freelance writer and industry expert on business travel for women. She is also CEO and Founder of www.maiden-voyage.com, an awardwinning global network designed to make business travel both safe and social for professional women. Carolyn has a background in technology, primarily focused on both travel and media. Her work has taken her throughout Europe, the U.S. and India, and she has lived and worked in both the Netherlands and Australia. As a result, Carolyn speaks fluent Dutch and also some French. Contact her via email at Carolyn@maidenvoyage.org or follow her on Twitter at: @maiden_voyage.

Apple Gidley

Apple Gidley, a freelance writer and author of Expat Life Slice by Slice, has traveled extensively and is a seasoned expatriate, having started her nomadic life at a month old in West Africa. She has lived and worked in Nigeria, England, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, Papua New Guinea, the Netherlands, Trinidad and Tobago, Thailand, Scotland, Equatorial Guinea and the USA. Apple currently lives in Houston, Texas.

Read her blog at www.my.telegraph. co.uk/applegidley or visit her website at www.expatapple.com.

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Shirley Agudo

As a journalist with a passion for travel, music and culinary adventures, Marla has written for many national and regional publications, on topics ranging from wine trails in Argentina to African-American-owned wineries in Napa Valley. Marla is the author and co-editor of the book, A Century of Hospitality: 1910 – 2010 (McNeill Publishing), which focuses on the history of the hotel industry. Many of her articles are featured in Lodging magazine, where she covers trends in tourism.

Her work has also appeared in The Courier Post; USA Today online; Uptown; and The Philadelphia Business Journal – among others.

When not globetrotting (or searching for the perfect wine to complement chocolatecovered pretzels), she can be found rocking out with her musician husband, Chris, at their home in New Jersey. Visit Marla’s website at www.marlacimini.com and follow her on Twitter at: @MarlaCimini.

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Laura Manske

Aisha Ashraf

Aisha Isabel Ashraf is a freelance writer who’s made the expatriate leap of faith twice – first as a lifestyle choice, and now as the trailing spouse of a civil engineer in a global consultancy.

Currently based in Canada with her husband and children, she’s crossed geographical, cultural and religious borders and gives a candid account of the journey on her award-winning blog, Expatlog.com. Her fascination for travel and psychology drives her work today. Her series of posts entitled ‘Breaking the Code of Silence’, about stigma and mental illness, led to her participation in a research study for Canada’s Centre for Addiction and Mental Health. She also writes for various U.K. newspapers, travel and lifestyle publications, and is a columnist for Expat Focus, an established online expat resource. Follow her on Twitter at: @AishaAshraf1.

Travel trend-spotter Laura Manske circles the world looking for "aha!" destination joys. For many years, Manske was a top magazine editor in New York City, overseeing travel coverage, and now continues her globetrotting passion as a freelance travel journalist and photographer.

Her book, Family Travel: The Farther You Go, The Closer You Get, is an anthology of profound and humorous stories about how travel can restore and revitalize loved ones of all ages and connections. She has often been interviewed about travel on national TV and radio. Unearthing the best soft adventure, romantic, family, girlfriend and spa getaways, Manske has journeyed all over the United States, explored 70+ countries, and cruised 60+ ships, winning travel-writing kudos and judging tourism-industry awards along the way. She gets a huge rush when whooshing down a runway — aloft!

Anne O'Connell

Author, freelance writer and social media consultant, Anne O’Connell, has been an expat since 1993 when she and her husband left Canada and moved to Fort Lauderdale, Florida, then to Dubai in 2007 and on to Thailand in 2011. O’Connell is a regular contributor to Global Living magazine and Expat Focus.

She is also the author of @Home in Dubai… Getting Connected Online and on the Ground; 10 Steps to a Successful PR Campaign – a Doit-Yourself Guide for Authors; and Mental Pause, her first novel, a 2013 Independent Publisher Book Award winner. O’Connell grew up in Halifax, Nova Scotia and has a bachelor of public relations from Mount St. Vincent University. For more information, visit her website at www.anne-oconnell.com.

BE A PART OF GLOBAL LIVING MAGAZINE If you are interested in contributing to Global Living, please contact our Editor-in-Chief, Alison Cavatore, at: Alison@GlobalLivingMagazine.com.

We are always looking for experienced, well-traveled writers and photographers and we want to hear from you, our readers. Contact us now about opportunities and visit us online at GlobalLivingMagazine.com.

Additional words and photos credited where applicable. Disclaimer: The views expressed by our contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of Global Living magazine, its management or owners. Global Living has not verified the accuracy or completeness of the content of the submission but has relied on the warranty of the creator as to these factors. Please address any comments directly to the creator.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied by any method without the written permission from the publishing company. Global Media Partners LLC, and all those associated with this publication assume no financial responsibility for any misinformation or typographical errors in advertisements and make no claims as to their promises or guarantees, products or services.

images provided by each contributor

Marla Cimini

Assistant Editor Shirley Agudo is an American author, editor and photographer based in the Netherlands. She is the author/photographer of five books: Bicycle Mania Holland (www.bicycle-mania.nl), Fodor’s Holland, Hot Pink, Network Your Way to Success and Here’s Holland (www.heresholland.com). As a documentary photographer, she is also the founder of the Amsterdam Street Photographers’ collective.

Along with Street Photography Workshops, she leads regular Photo Walks in Amsterdam. For more information, contact Shirley directly at: shirleyagudo@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter at: @BicycleMania.

GLOBAL STYLE

Jetsetter fashion and accessories

Designer: Emily Tonkin British designer Emily Tonkin’s new women’s sportswear line 30fifteen is the perfect mix of comfort, style and durability.

Manufactured in the U.K. and available in the U.S., Australia and the U.K., the odor absorbent tennis range allows women to remain stylish while exuding confidence on the court. The high quality and innovative line is designed by women for women and includes dresses, tops and skirts for the sporty yet feminine woman.

Tonkin is a young up-and-coming designer who was trained at the Fashion Institute of Design and Manufacturing (FIDM). Seeing a gap in the market for high quality, stylish and affordable tennis wear for women, the young designer decided to transfer all of her skills to designing her very own collection.

image courtesy of London Flair PR

Briefly tell us a little about your background.

I was brought up in East Sussex in the U.K. where I was always playing sports, dancing or performing in local productions. I used to travel to and from London a lot to visit my grandparents, and I was always spending Saturday afternoons with my grandmother, who was a seamstress in World War II, while my brother and Dad went to watch the West Ham soccer team. So if we didn’t spend the afternoon making her famous ‘rock cakes’ for when the boys returned from football, my grandmother would be encouraging my sewing skills on her sewing machine. I most defiantly get my pattern making and design skills from her! I was an average A-B grade student, and got my A-Levels before going on to Musical Theatre College. It was half way Emily Tonkin Global Living Magazine 9

Sue 10 Collection Global Living Magazine

she couldn’t find anything to wear that suited her or that was an applying color/ style, so that was my starting point.

You created a collection of sportswear, specifically tennis wear. Do you play tennis?

Yes, I have played tennis since I was about seven. (I was really good when I was younger but focused more on dance and other sports than tennis at the time). I stopped playing for a couple of years but got back into it in my twenties. I am average, but known to have a ‘housewife’ serve!

What advice would you give to someone who is looking for great sportswear?

Everyone is very different, but for me, I look at the fabric to see if it will absorb any odors or sweat because I like to throw myself into the sport so the last thing I want is to feel self conscious. My main goal is to feel comfortable and that relies heavily on the fabric and the styling.

As a businesswoman, how do you balance your work life with your personal life?

Emily Tonkin

through the course I fell out of love with dancing, and knew I didn’t want to dance professionally, so I went on to focus solely on acting. I moved to Los Angeles, where I studied acting. I spent every moment of my spare time sketching and designing clothes and when I was on a set one day, I was more interested in what the wardrobe department was doing that focusing on my performance. It was then I realized I wanted to be in the fashion industry.

image courtesy of London Flair PR

How did you get into the design/fashion industry?

It’s a daily battle to be honest; you have to really be strict and say, “no do not check your emails, you are at dinner!”

What is your most important travel item?

Passport?!? Ha ha! Um … seriously, I don’t fly without chewing gum (to stop my ears popping), water and hand lotion. I hate how dehydrated a flight can make you.

If you could visit any place in the world, where would you go, and why?

Shamefully, I have never been to Australia, and I would love to go. We have family friends who live out there but my parents decided to make the trip before they had me so I am the only person in my family that hasn’t been, which is annoying. So Australia is on my list. So is Canada. I have been to a lot of Canadian airports (thanks to the wonderful plane journeys my dad would book, giving me as many layovers as he could fit into a flight) but never been outside of them and I would love to explore that country.

Where is your collection available for purchase?

The collection is available from www.30fifteen.co.uk and amazon.com at the moment, and the prices range from $23-$108.

What advice do you have for an aspiring designer?

Be confident, and true to yourself.

I have always drawn and sketched from a young age, but never took it very seriously, until I was living in Los Angeles, and a friend said I should do something with my talent. I then came across FIDM, and their Merchandise Product Development program; it ticked all the boxes that I wanted and so I enrolled there and it changed my life.

What’s next for you as a designer?

How did you come up with your sportswear line, 30fifteen?

What is your favorite place to travel to?

I wanted to create a brand that I 100% believed in and one that connected with what is ‘me’. Sportswear really resonates with me because I live a very active lifestyle: cycling, playing tennis, going to the gym, taking dance classes, etc. The inspiration behind our debut collection to be tennis focused was from my Mom. She plays a lot of tennis and she was always complaining

the only place I can just switch my brain off and relax. However, I do love the U.S., there is something always fun and exciting about being in the U.S., plus having lived there, I have a lot of friends out there who have a firm place in my heart so I like to go out and visit them as much as I can.

More of the same I hope.

Creating a new collection, which helps the brand expand and grow, work with great people and exploring different technologies.

Gosh, I love so many places for different reasons. Algarve, Portugal is like a second home to me, I have been taking holidays there since I was 18 months old … if not younger. I go there at least once a year; I feel like it is

Visit www.30fifteen.co.uk for more information.

Global Living Magazine 11 Anna Collection

GLOBAL EVENTS

events happening around the world

Pre-Event Notice

The Global Party 2013 Between June 27 and 29, 2013 the world's elite will gather in the most luxurious venues, in 120+ cities around the world to celebrate the Global Party. Contributed by Carolyn Pearson

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he Global Party, inspired by 360°, will take place across 360 exclusive venues, welcoming 360,000 guests to raise both awareness and money for 360+ local children's charities, and will unite the most influential people from the worlds of fashion, arts, media and society.

The Global Charity Trust was founded in 2011 by renowned hedge fund veteran and philanthropist Lord Stanley Fink and luxury lifestyle expert David Johnstone to support a number of worldwide causes. The charity focuses on children, the elderly, education, the environment and animal welfare. The Global Party will be the platform to bring these often-smaller charities into the global spotlight.

A similar party was held back in 2011, based on the Phileas Fogg theme of 'Around the World in 80 Days', when 80,000 guests partied in 80 venues around the world.

This year, a black tie dinner for 120 VIP guests on June 26 at London's Savoy hotel will mark the start of the world's biggest private party, and will be streamed live for the following 92 hours, until the party ends in Los Angeles on June 29.

Worldwide venues will include premium nightclubs, 5-star hotels, private members’ clubs, top-class restaurants and private residences. Some guests will party-hop by private jet across continents to attend multiple venues.

Hotel Muse in Bangkok, Greenhouse nightclub in New York, The Rose Club in London, and the Ice Bar in Fiji are just some of the places you can join the party.

Each venue hosting The Global Party will cover all of their own expenses to ensure that money raised at the event will go directly to their chosen local charities. The venues, charities and local sponsors will together invite 1000+ VIP guests. Each VIP who receives an invitation to The Global Party is being asked, as a token of their appreciation, to make a donation directly to The Global Charity Trust of what they believe one hour of their time is worth.

You can get yourself and one guest onto the exclusive VIP guest list by simply making a donation to the Global Charity Trust of £500 ($768) or more. Those making a donation of £1000 ($1537) will be added to the guest list of each of the 360 venues around the world, granting them access to as many parties as they can physically get to during the three days.

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Additional Information: To find out more about the event or to watch the live stream, visit: www.theglobalparty.com.

To find out more about The Global Charity Trust or to make a donation, visit: www.theglobalcharitytrust.org.

TOP ROW: Orient Express, 2011; the worldwide launch of The Global Party, 2011; Mollie King at the worldwide launch of The Global Party, 2011 (Image by: David Betteridge: www.dhbphotography.co.uk).

MIDDLE ROW: The worldwide launch of The Global Party, Blue, 2011 (Image by: David Betteridge: www.dhbphotography.co.uk); The Global Party - Boujis, 2011; the worldwide launch of The Global Party, 2011 (Image by: David Betteridge: www.dhbphotography.co.uk).

BOTTOM ROW: Orient Express, 2011; Co-Directors David Johnstone and Stanley Fink, 2013; the worldwide launch of The Global Party, 2011. *All images courtesy of The Global Party.

Specific photographers indicated where possible.

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GLOBAL TRAVEL

explorations from around the world

Glamping

Luxury Camping Around the World

Explore an endless variety of luxury camping sites all over the world, courtesy of GlampingHub.com.

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ppealing to virtually all types of travelers, ‘glamping’ – the glamorous version of camping – is an eco-friendly alternative to staying in a hotel. In many cases, glamping accommodations take advantage of surrounding elements of nature, providing a unique experience for exploring the world without sacrificing the desired luxuries.

Imagine waking up and stepping out the door of your tent, yurt or tree house into your own private, natural retreat. With access to hiking, mountain biking, white water rafting, canoeing, wine tasting and more, the glamping experiences are endless.

GlampingHub.com serves as your portal into the world of alternative luxury travel, featuring glamping sites in the U.S. and Canada, Europe, Australia and South-East Asia, the Caribbean and Americas, and Africa.

If you’re looking to spice up your travel without giving up all of your preferred amenities, GlampingHub.com allows you to search by location, date and number of guests for the perfect glamorous camping experience.

Visit www.GlampingHub.com for more information.

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Romantic Safari Tents | Starting at $245 per night Tucked away high atop a 300-foot ridge overlooking Lone Man Creek, these romantic safari tents are situated on five private acres of land in Texas Hill Country. Combining luxury accommodations with environmentally-conscious practices, these tents feature king-sized beds and good down pillows and duvets.

Bamboo/organic cotton sheets add a level of comfort and luxury, and the bathroom features a century-old claw foot bathtub, thick, organic cotton towels and spa bathrobes. Accommodations also include a kitchenette equipped with a freezer, refrigerator, microwave oven, induction cooktop, toaster oven, and specialty coffeemaker.

Activities: Bird watching, hiking, local sightseeing/excursions, meditation, restaurants, walking, wine tasting, yoga and zip lining.

Unit amenities: Air conditioning, BBQ grill, cleaning services, deck or balcony, electricity, fridge, hairdryer, hammock, heating, Wi-Fi, Jacuzzi/hot tub, linens, lounge, running water, shower, sink, toilet and towels.

Community facilities: BBQ grill, coffeemaker, dining room, hot tub, lounge, parasols, and sun loungers.

site images courtesy of GlampingHub.com map: copyright Doomu 2013, used under license from Shutterstock

Precious Hill Country, Texas

Forest Area Near Harads, Sweden

Design Treehouses | Price upon request Extremely unique treerooms are available for glamping in the forest area near Harads, Sweden. Built in 2010 and designed by some of Scandinavia’s leading architects, the treehouses are located near the Lule River and are suspended approximately 13 – 20 feet in the tall pine forest, providing spectacular views. The rooms are accessible by ramp, bridge or electric stairs and each room is unique – including furniture, lighting and fabrics that are all custom designed. The rooms vary in size between 161 – 322 square feet, with the largest rooms accommodating up to four people.

Activities: Biking, fishing, game drive, hiking, horseback riding, kayaking and walking.

Community facilities: A tree sauna for up to 12 people.

Golden Triangle, Thailand

Four Seasons | Starting at $2,200 per night Elephant-tusk-styled door handles welcome you into each tent, which feature a 581-square-foot living room area. Tents are named after local hill tribes, fauna and flora, and each are uniquely decorated in individual color schemes and coordinated furnishings. Pathways along the campgrounds lead to the secluded accommodations nestled in a natural forest environment.

The site features a one-of-a-kind free-form pool overlooking the Ruak River, a therapeutic whirlpool, and more. The Deluxe Tents have custommade wood hot tubs on the outdoor deck.

Activities: Bird watching, body treatments, hiking, local sightseeing/ excursions, massages, photography, walking, and wine tasting.

Unit amenities: Bathtub, minibar, pool, room service, running water, safe box, shower, tea/coffeemaker, toilet and towels.

Community facilities: Bar/tub, coffeemaker, and massage.

The Agafay Desert near Marrakesh, Morocco

High-end Cotton Canvas Tents | Starting at $170 per night Offering an authentic nomad lifestyle in the desert of Agafay, close to the imperial city of Marrakesh, this glamping location features spacious and comfortable tents, decorated with unique sourced pieces and locally crafted artwork such as Moroccan lanterns, African woven matting and Berber rugs. Facing the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, this exclusive desert campsite has five private, luxury tents dotted throughout a vast terrain. Each private sleeping area has a 269-square-foot thick, white-cotton nomad tent with a queen size bed.

Nearby Marrakesh is known for its lively bazaars, palaces and busy town squares.

Activities: 4x4, biking, hiking, horseback riding, hot air balloon rides, local sightseeing/ excursions, paragliding, kites, Moroccan cuisine workshops, camel or donkey-back treks, massages, quads, surfing, walking, and yoga. A longer, two-day trek can be made by horseback, quad or helicopter charter (with 36-hour advance notice and dependent on weather conditions).

Unit amenities: Shower, toilet, and towels.

Community facilities: Dining room, parasols, Moroccan cuisine workshops, boule, board games, and open film projection.

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Photo by Doug Merriam 16 Global Magazine Courtesy of Santa Living Fe Convention and Visitor's Bureau

Emerald Lake sunrise

Sumptuous Santa Fe Zen New Mexico, USA contributed by Laura

Manske

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here is an almost otherworldly spiritual pull in Santa Fe that lassos your heart.

You feel it while hiking the picturesque northern New Mexico desert on a plateau almost 7,000 feet above sea level, where the Sangre de Cristo Mountains rise yet higher as your awe-inspiring backdrop. The daylight sky, stretching in a wide arc overhead, is almost always a cerulean hue; at night, its ink-black canvas looks as though it is flung with handfuls of glittery stars.

No wonder this is called the Land of Enchantment.

But there is more. You sense Santa Fe’s uplifting spirit in works by hundreds of area artists whose sculptures and paintings grace this place with unbridled creativity in galleries all over the city, and especially along Canyon Road. Like Georgia O’Keeffe, they’ve been drawn to the unique countryside and live-and-let-live attitude.

Sure, Santa Fe means ‘Holy Faith’ in Spanish. But the lure isn’t religious. Rather, it is an appreciation for all that this centuriesold, adobe-aesthetic community offers: a commitment to its Pueblo Indian and Hispanic heritages; a clarion call to slow down, dine on artisanal food, slip into effervescent natural springs, and commune with, well, pretty much whatever floats your chakra. In Santa Fe, it is easy to hang out with poets, novelists, photographers, painters, sculptors, hippies, alternative healers, New Age philosophers, musicians, outdoor adventurers, master chefs, and organic farmers — in an uncomplicated way you don’t find anywhere else.

There is plenty of feel-happy fuel to light your fire in this mesmerizing land. You could spend weeks unearthing its charms.

But even a few days under its spell is rejuvenating. So stop and smell the aromatic piñon wood.

Here’s how to jumpstart your Santa Fe vacation.

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LOOKING AND LISTENING • Georgia O’Keeffe Museum (www.okeeffemuseum.org) exhibits almost a thousand works by this legend; don’t miss the fascinating documentaries about her and the black-and-white photos of O’Keeffe taken by others.

• Santa Fe Botanical Garden (www.santafebotanicalgarden.org) opens its first phase — a lovely fruit orchard — in July at Museum Hill. Designed by American Horticultural Society stellar landscape architect Gary Smith, it will implement state-of-the-art water conservation techniques.

• Museum of International Folk Art (www.internationalfolkart.org) is a joy. Its extensive permanent collection spans the globe. Zero in on donor Alexander Girard’s whimsical ‘Multiple Visions, a Common Bond,’ which displays enormous dioramas — many funny — filled with colorful toys and traditional folk art from more than 100 countries. The museum’s zesty show, ‘New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más,’ captivates with cocoa facts and lore.

• Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian (www.wheelwright.org) showcases an amazing timeline and explanation of Native American history, culture, art and artifacts.

• Santa Fe Bandstand (www.santafebandstand.org) on the Plaza will applaud an impressive line-up of musicians starting in July and through the summer.

• Lensic Performing Arts Center (www.lensic.org), built in a Moorish architectural style, is home to the Santa Fe Symphony, and puts on more than 200 annual performances of dance, film, theater, spoken word and lectures.

RELAXING & RECHARGING Quietly sophisticated on 57 pristine sandy and red-rock acres, the Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado (www.fourseasons.com/santafe) serves up 65 deluxe casitas, all with a private terrace and wood-burning kiva fireplace.

Wake with a golden sunrise for a staff-led nature walk; dip into the outdoor pool, and then supine at its spacious spa’s cloistered outdoor soaking tub and eucalyptus steam room. The spa incorporates indigenous ingredients into its healing repertoire, such as blue corn to exfoliate and wildflower honey to hydrate your skin. Or try a clay body mask for a blushing glow. I was won over by their Native American healing tradition — the smudging of sage — which my massage therapist explained is a ‘purification ritual’, asking me to concentrate on something or someone I needed to let go from my life, but had not been able to. Oh, hocus-pocus, I skeptically thought, silently shrugging off her request. Yet, unexpectedly, during that turning-point hour, I finally did turn a corner.

Deep breath. Release. Healed.

The resort’s Terra Restaurant sublimely satisfies — with both a scenic outdoor patio and a gracious indoor dining room with fireplace. Chef Andrew Cooper celebrates local ingredients in delectable recipes: apple sage bread pudding, green chile-braised short ribs, smoked pumpkin, and trout tamale.

Ready to venture into town, a 10-minute drive away? Don’t lift a finger, as hotel staff 18

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• Santa Fe Opera (www.santafeopera.org) stages top-drawer singers.

Its world-class programming instills Santa Fe with summertime buzz!.

Ready to venture into town, a 10-minute drive away? Don’t lift a finger, as hotel staff ferry guests back and forth in a Mercedes SUV at your convenience. ferry guests back and forth in a Mercedes SUV at your convenience.

Families are welcomed with complimentary use of child-sized bathrobe, toiletries, diapers, high chair, crib and rollaway bed. Children’s menu and babysitting are available as well.

Discover another memorable spa experience at the more rustic Ten Thousand Waves (www.tenthousandwaves.com), modeled as a Japanese onsen, set mountainside in a fragrant juniper forest at the northeast reaches of Santa Fe. Wearing a kimono, you’ll move from a tatami meditation room to a choice of outdoor hot bath, dry sauna, cold plunge pool, and treatment spaces. Their shiatsu massages — stress-relieving, finger-pressure indulgences — are mind- and body-reviving.

Book several different massages in a row to maximize your flow of good feelings. I began with the Ashi Anma foot reflexology, then had a full-body, deep-tissue massage, followed by a Yasuragi head-and-neck rub that included warm oil on my scalp, which made my hair full and extra shiny for weeks afterward. Nirvana.

St. Francis (www.hotelstfrancis.com; 81 guestrooms), a Heritage Hotel and Resort on the National Register of Historic Places, located near the Santa Fe Plaza. Mixologist Chris Milligan (www.santafebarman.com) is a champion of garden-to-glass libations, and is most famous for his drink, The Spicy Secreto.

Smile the sun down on the pretty patio of the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi (www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/innoftheanasazi/; 58 guestrooms with four-poster beds and ceilings of timber vigas and latillas).

Chef Juan Bochenski’s ahi tuna tacos and buffalo empanadas with chimichurri sauce are a perfect match with the charismatic concoctions of mixologist James Reis, who likens himself to a mad scientist.

Then, next to the legendary Loretto Chapel (www.lorettochapel.com), swoon over dinner at Luminaria Restaurant, nestled in the Inn and Spa at Loretto (www.innatloretto.com; 134 guestrooms designed in symbolic colors of Navajo gold, terracotta red, and the blackand-white patterns of Anasazi blankets and pottery). Chef Brett Sparman turns out prizeworthy taste sensations: tortilla soup, seafood SIPPING & SAVORING paella, and goat cheese polenta fries.

Cocktail-lovers relish Secreto Bar in Hotel For even more elegant dining, book The

image courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts

Exterior Select Patio Casita King Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado

images courtesy Il Piatto; photography by Dough Merriam

Compound (www.compoundrestaurant.com; on Canyon Road). In a historic, white-washed adobe building, with simple yet striking interior design by Alexander Girard, chef Mark Kiffin, a James Beard award-winner, adds pizzazz to buttermilk roasted chicken, Muscovy duck breast, and forever-braised osso bucco. There’s a formidable wine list as well. It certainly is a divine date-night rendezvous.

My favorite foodie haven, where I could eat several times a week, is chef and owner Matt Yohalem’s Il Piatto (www.ilpiattosantafe.com), an ode to Italy’s farmhouse kitchens. Perhaps it is his twinkling eyes or the excited way he talks about his dishes and his wishes that makes me want to cheer for this native New York wunderkind. Yohalem, who has worked in some of the most prestigious restaurants in America, now makes Santa Fe his homesweet-home and devises menus packed with flavor. The restaurant’s at-ease ambiance makes lingering a pleasure. Don’t miss the gorgonzola-and-walnut ravioli; Venetianstyle chicken livers ‘agre dolce’ — with caramelized onions, raisins and pine nuts; and red chili linguini with mussels.

There are Santa Fe mealtimes when you just want to kick back with a specialty beer (or a tasting fleet) and some kick-ass Southwestern delectables: mole de pollo, stuffed sopapilla, green chili stew. The Blue Corn Brewery (www.bluecorncafe.com), run by chef David Sundberg, is the chill-out spot, a cavernous retreat with soaring fireplaces. For dessert, surprise your taste buds with the delicious Stout Flout, which melds vanilla bean ice cream and Gold Medal Oatmeal Stout.

Brewer John Bullard deserves kudos for his impressive array of handcrafted ales and lagers. Always tweaking their best work, these two are a winning team.

In Santa Fe, you can have a sweet, smoky and spicy time all at once.

Matt Yohalem Chef and owner at Il Piatto

Interior, Il Piatto

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Expressions of Ethiopia Travel writer Anisha Shah journeyed to Ethiopia to explore the traditions and people that make up the vibrant, deep-rooted land.

She quickly discovered a historical and wildly immersive side to the African experience.

Editorial and Photography by Anisha Shah

left & right page: photography by Anisha Shah

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er bottom lip was ceremoniously split open at her coming of age. It’s since been stretched and widened. Now, here she stands, gracefully inserting a 5-inch decorative clay plate into the fold, elegantly showing me her time-old traditions and the mystical beauty of the ‘Mursi’ tribeswomen. Her eyes are piercing – the whites brilliantly blinding against her buttery coffee skin.

Similarly slit, her earlobes sparkle, featuring equally large, golden clay plates. It’s an incredible, breathtaking sight, reducing me to sheer awe and admiration.

The Mursi is a tribe of deep-set cultural roots, dwelling in small clusters of clans in Southern Ethiopia’s remote Omo Valley, close to the South Sudanese and Kenyan borders.

The origins of these decorative traditions are unconfirmed; I’m told it’s aesthetic beauty, while the counter-narrative suggests deliberate disfigurement to protect women from passing Arab traders.

With a baby clutched to her breast, swarms of flies at her eyes and nipples, and face streaked in ghostly white tribal paint, another topless Mursi lady emerges from a straw-capped ‘Tukul’ hut. Robed in a multi-colored cloth, her shaved head is gracefully decorated with a string of bright dried oranges. Nearby, protecting the clan, four tattooed tribesmen are armed with Kalashnikovs. It's a strange vision; the most surreal I've ever encountered.

But, being a solo traveler I don’t have the luxury of feeling unnerved – rather only overcome with phenomenal respect.

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Isolated Omo Valley

Tribal living conditions are modest and humble. The dense mud, animal manure and persistent flies are relentless. Yet these earthly elements are worshipped as God's gifts of survival. Inside a Tukul, the air is thick, redolent with black plumes of smoke billowing from charcoal cooking stoves.

Native grain, ‘Teff,’ is cooking to make a spongy, bread-like staple, ‘Injera,’ with which delicious stewed lentils and spiced chickpeas are eaten.

Tribal beliefs, culture and religion center on timeless superstition and deep-set traditions so firmly embedded that they can be overwhelming for a ‘Farangi,’ (Foreigner) as I’m constantly called. I wonder if this word could serve as a metaphor as we each eye the other in wonder of what’s so unusual about both of us.

embarrassingly choke on this latter strong resin flaming down my throat. Market morning is indeed a captivating world of unique sights. Personally, it’s made even more incredulous by finding myself alone in the midst of tribal wilderness.

Hamer men don a distinctly unique hairstyle, closely shaved with a centerpiece resembling a furry microphone cover, atop their foreheads. Moving against the suggested distant observation, I weave into the pulsating beat of the crowds, which enables fascinating interaction, i.e. sign language.

Journey Through Wilderness

Intermittently, sharp thunderous bursts of rain descend upon Omo Valley with a fierce attitude, transforming paths into mud baths

– liquid pools of murky chocolate. Clouds blanket the lush, carpeted hills in dense fog.

An eerie mist creeps and folds over the valleys.

Minutes later, the blazing desert sun denies any trace of rainfall.

Nature-inspired Independent Lodges

Independent lodges pepper the south; the emphasis on natural comforts, they’re exasperating in views and locations. Opening up my windows to raucous birdsong, the call of wild Hyena and a fireball sun casting electric ribbons of heat onto my face, overlooking endless mountains and lakes, rivers and waterfalls … this is African nature at its truest.

One such lodge is Aregash in Yirgalem, run

by Italian-Ethiopian Marika and her Greek-

Off-roading in a luxury Land Cruiser through the winding jungle path, deep into the unfurling expanse of exotic birdlife, monkeys and wild deer, my driver approaches an unusually large opening in the forest. It’s market day for the Hamer tribes-people and it’s heaving. My rifle-armed Omo ranger and guide-driver are nearby. A group of Hamer tribes-girls run over, wide-eyed and curious. They touch my hair and stroke my skin, excitedly giggling and chatting in the melodic Amharic language. The word 'Konjo' is repeated to me as they play with buttons on my dress and gaze at my earrings. I do the same in return, intrigued by their outfits and hair. My guide translates, “They say you’re very beautiful.” Yet their beauty is, quite literally, heart-stopping. Draped in mass multi-colored beads and fur-lined calfskin skirts, their breasts and backs are exposed.

The sea of heads is an outlandish explosion of flame-red braids, thickly coated in a paste of red soil and butter. Seeping onto their foreheads and necks, it melts into the starklycontrasting dark skin. Protruding metal necklaces indicate that the woman is ‘first wife’. Two metal bands are indicative of the second wife – apparently a pleasing factor as the woman’s duties diminish. Exposed backs proudly display scars of slashings that girls accept as a precursor to marriage.

Surreal Market Morning in the Deep Omo Valley Tobacco and locally grown amphetaminelike ‘Khat,’ from flowering plants native to the Horn of Africa, are on sale alongside vegetables, fruits and homeware. Inside compounds, crowds are drinking (and insisting I try) homemade ‘Borde’ beer and home-distilled alcoholic Barley ‘Araki.’ I 22

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left & right page: photography by Anisha Shah

Red Soil, Butter & Necklaces: Tribal Outfits

The Grand Hotel Cafe Buffet

New Year's Eve

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images courtesy of Jennifer Fisher Jewelry

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Ethiopian husband, Gregory. Be prepared to feast on the freshest ingredients, handpicked from their acres of grounds, eaten in homey meals side by side with the couple.

Sidama is famous for its coffee, so I’m lucky to be treated to a guided dawn trek through the coffee forest of avocado, mango and banana trees, towards a small stream. As I clamber back up a steep embankment to a village, I spot a little girl playing football alone on a dirt track. An impromptu game with her leaves the neighborhood joyously erupting in applause before I return to the lodge for a heart-warming breakfast of steaming honey porridge and spiced tea.

Ethiopian Imprint

Ethiopia has a way of seeping into one’s soul. It’s discrete yet potent. “You came with an open mind and are leaving with a full heart,” recounts Nick Crane (a former Brit who owns ‘Africa’s Highest Lodge’ in the UNESCO World Heritage Simien Mountains) at the end of my long voyage.

I discover Ethiopia to be life-changing.

Few world destinations leave such a penetrating footprint on my psyche. It’s the boundless energy and mystique that resonate. Ethiopians radiate a ferocious love of land and it’s infectious.

left & right page: photography by Anisha Shah

Solo in Omo

Traveling the tribal and tropical south alone in a private 4x4 with a driverguide is as luxurious as it gets, but I still use the word ‘luxury’ extremely loosely.

The ‘experience factor’ resonates as an unforgettably immersive and wildly fascinating adventure. It’s also the best way to experience those unique, one-off local encounters on an entirely personalized trip. Passing rural markets (‘Khat’ drug market) or unexpected people (tribal wedding procession), I jump out at will, take photographs and even join in.

Exploring alone as a female, I find, organically initiates inspiring conversations along the journey. I don't encounter a 'bad' person or experience any troubles that I can't handle. Fortunately, a strong sense of instinct and travel-savvy helps.

Exploring this vast land is for the hardened, inquisitive traveler. But the rewards are resounding and infinite.

North Ethiopia's Ancient Civilizations

I fall in love with the wildly contrasting north of Ethiopia. Abundant in archaeological, cultural and natural riches, this is the masked treasure of Africa. Each successive encounter draws me deeper into an intricate, complex and deep-rooted land.

The extremely multicultural Addis Jennifer Fisher

Ababa is my launch pad; I spend three separate occasions in this sprawling capital, each time growing in independence and confidence. It’s here I encounter the highly anticipated 'Lucy' skeleton – the oldest living ‘hominid’ to have been discovered by archaeologists in Awash Valley, dating back 3.2 million years.

Wild-card City of Contrasts

Zealous fervor for the historical route, including Lalibela's mighty rock-hewn churches and Lake Tana's hidden island monasteries, is somewhat relative, as Aksum is the wild card that steals the show.

Lacking the glamorous recognition of its acclaimed neighbors, the former capital of the Axumite kingdom for some thousand years is pivotal in Ethiopia's history.

Awakening early at my hilltop lodge, I have an enviable view of an unparalleled sunrise over Aksum's 1st-century BC stone Stelae. As it climbs, the fireball globe pours molten gold rays over the world's most mysterious UNESCO-designated land, where obelisks and treasures square off against royal tombs and the elusive Ark of the Covenant. To the open and questioning traveler, ancient mysteries are uncovered, stone by stone. A dawn stroll through the town unearths a mystical procession of thousands, bedecked in white scarves, funneling single-file in a seemingly hypnotic state – an entire town marching to church. There, elders engulfed in creases like craters, with skin as wrinkled as walnut shells, are deep in prayer. Best known is the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.

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Mysteries within Lalibel's Rock-hewn Churches

If you mention Ethiopia to a non-traveler, they may frustratingly reply “famine,” as I experienced pre-travel. The country challenges this negative association of a bygone time that, today, stands misrepresentative. But, mention Ethiopia to a traveler, and they'll likely respond “Lalibela,” and with good reason. The UNESCO Monolithic churches here are a pilgrimage site and the country’s most recognizable landmark.

On approach, the 12th-century 'Bête Giyorgis' Church of St. George comes into view from a height. Looking down on the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’, it appears as a Greek cross carved into enclosing volcanic rock. Instantly, it's easy to appreciate this architectural masterpiece. I marvel at the technical foresight but then remember that legend has it the north and south church clusters were carved out of red granite with the help of angels. I'm led into a tiny canyon down steep narrow steps along rocky ledges – in Indiana Jones fashion. The entrance is dark … the interior only lit with diminutive phosphorescent light.

Inside, tiny cave altars are manned by extremely traditional-looking Ethiopian Christian Orthodox priests bearing impressive – and precious – crosses. Beautifully carved windows and doors allow a little natural light to seep in, subtly illuminating deep dark corners and elderly worshippers. Each church has a distinct architectural style, superbly crafted; many are decorated in elaborate paintings and frescoes. They house age-old religious manuscripts with original inscriptions and religious murals so ancient the stories would be lost to us forever without them.

Exasperating Landscapes at the 'Roof of Africa'

For a conspicuously different setting, I fly 26

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into Gondar and make a bumpy car ride up into a scene that’s changed little in millennia.

Spellbound at nature’s ability to paint pristine landscapes using such a minimal palette of colors, UNESCO-designated Simien Mountains National Park is, simply put, one of the world’s most awe-inspiring destinations – a 600-million-year-old volcanic massif.

As I enter deep gorges, distant brooding, undulating high peaks close in, forming imposing steep walls of dazzling arid outcrops on either side. For non-trekkers, simply bask in the jaw-dropping, endless views. I come face-to-face with striking Gelada monkeys, wild Ibex and Bushbuck. Majestically rising out of the rocky plain, Ras Dashen is the highest peak in Ethiopia at 15,147 feet, and fourth highest in Africa.

My oasis is Simien Lodge, a spectacular setting crowning the extensive 32-mile crag at the peak. The spacious Tukul-style villas are chameleons of nature, glistening in shades of rose, copper and auburn from dawn through dusk. Owner Nick Crane is often found hiking the surrounding hills, or entertaining guests with his infectious enthusiasm for the country. At sunset, gather by the log fire with a warming glass of Ethio wine, while wrapped in considerately-placed blankets.

Too Close to Kalasnikovs

The strangest moment in my journey has to be picking up two armed rangers from Debark town – the entry point. Watching them casually enter my vehicle, huge Kalashnikov rifles inhand, is slightly unnerving and surreal. The guns indicate authority, harking back to days when bandits dwelled in the mountains.

Vibrant Island Monasteries on Lake Tana

It’s the stillness of Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile, which leaves me spellbound. I board a private boat from Gondar, sailing the vast exotic waters teeming with birdlife, to visit small, wild islands housing incredibly old churches – 37 in total. Each is embellished in vivid, natural-color frescoes and holds priceless manuscripts from the dawn of Christianity. My well-versed guide, Dawit Teferi, demystifies each, depicting the evolution of religious art through the eras. It's a topic close to his heart, as a researcher on church art who is shortly to speak at a world-class event in the apt European city of Vienna.

Evolution of Ethiopia

Africa conjures up thrilling images. Economies are flourishing as fast as the population, and we all watch the booming cities, crowds and cars. But as I've seen, there is an historical and wildly immersive side to the African experience.

Ethiopians have always been surrounded by sensory beauty – rolling mountains that gush deep red soil into rivers and wild lakes, tropical tree-lined shores and the tribal jungle.

It's easy to find time and space for isolation.

Yet Ethiopians are most sociable beings, with traditions of tribes and clans. Free time is spent gathered at church, sheltering under the roof of belief. At night, villagers come together for an evening meal under the stars. These elements of Ethiopia's grace are key to explorations of the country, enabling reflection on the fascinating fusion of lives across the globe.

Single Most Inspiring Memory

My most cherished memory of Ethiopia is this: stopping the car in a remote rural road to photograph a deep brown jungle river. I find myself surrounded by local children from a forest village. My new 20-strong clan hold my hands, smile and chat, when the driver blasts a local tune. As African beats resound from the Jeep stereo, thumping into the jungle, the driver begins to dance, and so do the children.

Soon we’re all dancing in the midst of one long, dry, dusty road leading to infinity in the blazing sunshine, surrounded by green nothingness – twirling, clapping our hands and laughing out loud with no cares in the world. At this point, I lose all sense of reality and live just for this exhilarating moment … right here, right now.

left & right page: photography by Anisha Shah

The rather inconspicuous adjoining 'Chapel of The Tablet' lays claim to the Ark of the Covenant, held under guard. It’s believed it was brought to Ethiopia by Menelik I, son of Queen of Sheba and King Solomon of Jerusalem. Considered the Founding Father of the Ethiopian royal family, Menelik I earned the affectionate title 'King of Kings’.

After dark, Aksum’s alter ego emerges. A trip to utterly local 'house' bars is exciting, as they become cavalier Tigrigna dance floors, explosive in regional music and moves. This is where Ethiopia wears its heart on its sleeve.

After a few St. George or Dashen beers and surrounded by haunting Amharic vocals, it's impossible not to lose yourself to the soul of this incredible city.

image s courtesy of Ola Voyna

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hotel review | Rockliffe hall, England

D

ating back to the 18th century and set in 365 acres of woodland, the stunning Rockliffe Hall is one of the finest five-star luxury resorts in the northeast of England. The hotel has been extended and developed to provide visitors and guests with an array of modern award-winning facilities, but it still retains much of its oldworld charm.

The sweeping driveway leads to the grand red facade but, upon stepping inside, Rockliffe Hall is much less imposing, with lots of interesting and charming spaces.

Well-lit with a south-facing, sunny aspect, the building is warm and inviting. The walls are adorned with sumptuous prints, beautiful artwork and grand mirrors, and the open fire and genuinely warm welcome made me feel instantly at home.

There are three types of rooms at Rockliffe Hall. More traditional spaces with original architectural features and antique furniture in the main hall contrast with the modern design and earthy tones of those in the new hall and, for those who prefer a more peaceful getaway, there’s the Tiplady Lodge, located separately within the grounds. Our room located in the new hall was spacious,

airy and, like many, had its own balcony overlooking the golf course. The sumptuous spa-like bathrooms are perfect for some prolonged pampering, stocked with Miller Harris goodies, anti-steam mirrors, walk-in showers, and large baths with integrated flat-screen televisions.

The spa at Rockliffe Hall is officially one of the best in the country, having won numerous awards. My one regret was not allowing more time to really experience the thermal suite. The area is indulgent and spacious with plenty of loungers on which to relax, take the time to read luxury magazines, sip on complimentary refreshments or saunter in and out of the many sauna, steam and ice cubicles. Although the spa is housed in the new part of the Hall, some of the original architectural features have been preserved.

A stunning line of stained glass windows from the old Rockliffe Chapel casts shards of colorful sunlight onto the heated indoor infinity pool.

Totally relaxed, I headed up to the treatment rooms to meet my therapist Anna.

Unlike many of the commercial spas I have visited, I really felt that Anna had all the time in the world for me. After enduring a long British winter and months of central heating, I opted for the Chrono Reverser Facial to brighten my face – ready for the much-anticipated springtime. Anna used

Hotel Review:

Rockliffe Hall For this issue of Global Living Magazine, CAROLYN PEARSON – award-winning, innovative web-start-up entrepreneur, CEO and founder of Maiden-Voyage.com – visited Rockliffe Hall, a five-star luxury hotel, golf and spa resort. Featuring high-end facilities and traditional architecture mixed with modern design, Rockliffe Hall is nestled within 375 acres on the banks of the River Tees outside the village of Hurworth, County Durham.

Photographs courtesy of Rockliffe Hall

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Comfort Zone products to gently exfoliate my skin before applying a range of divine smelling oils, administering a blissful facial massage before applying a collagen mask.

The treatment lasted 75 minutes and ended with a refreshing cup of herbal tea, a welcome alternative to the usual chilled water. My skin looked instantly more radiant, brighter, firmer and plumper – a really effective facial rather than just a relaxing experience. After my treatment, I was guided to the speciallydesigned Sleep Retreat to prolong my state of deep relaxation. The peaceful haven with massage beds, thick and cozy throws, tranquil lighting and headphones that provide sound wave therapy complements the spa experience perfectly.

For those who prefer to be more active, Rockliffe Hall has a state-of-the-art gym, and guests can enjoy a range of classes such as Spinning, Yoga and Pilates. Although I paid a cursory visit, I found the media-integrated running machines far too tempting to feed

my social media addiction rather than to work on my cardio-vascular fitness.

Rockliffe Hall is also home to one of Europe’s largest golf courses, and its unique underground drainage system ensures that while many local courses close when the inevitable British winter strikes, golfers at Rockliffe Hall can continue to play.

Located in the Old Hall, The Orangery is a delightful spot in which to dine. This bright room with a glass ceiling and open views out across the estate is a perfect location for a long, leisurely lunch. In contrast, The Orangery transforms into one of romance and soft lighting as nighttime falls. The Orangery at Rockliffe Hall is a destination in itself and equally popular with non-residents, having been awarded three AA Rosettes soon after opening. We opted for the seven-course Vegetarian Tasting Menu, prepared under the watchful eye of Head Chef Dan Shotton.

Shotton is clearly as equally obsessive about presentation as he is about the taste, quality and combination of his delicious dishes. The Yellison Farm Goats Cheese Beignet with Gooseberries, Lemon on Mustard was pure art. My personal preference is for lemon rather than chocolate-based deserts, and the Lemon Posset with Almond Praline and Poppy Candy was both delicious and fun. I can’t help but imagine that Shotton has a playful streak.

For more casual dining, The Brasserie offers less fancy but equally imaginative, traditional British dishes such as organic salmon, Shetland mussels and Cumbrian chicken.

Quality, local ingredients permeate the menu at Rockliffe Hall and the menu more than caters to the health-conscious; the fresh honey from the comb was my personal breakfast favorite.

In the afternoons, The Orangery and the beautiful, cozy lounges come alive with the chink of champagne glasses, china cups and chatter as groups of ladies in pretty dresses enjoy the quintessentially British tradition of afternoon tea. The homemade cakes, scones and petite sandwiches looked absolutely delicious. Guests can also opt to dine outside on the terrace, looking far out across the golf course and beyond.

It’s not just the facilities that make Rockliffe Hall a perfect destination; the professionalism and pride of the team is palpable, and their warmth is as genuine as their obvious pleasure to be part of the experience. Throughout our stay it was those little extra service touches – that don’t cost anything – that made the real difference … the spa staff checking if we wanted music or not, the call to ask if we would like a turndown service, and the willingness of The Brasserie’s award-winning Owen Gooding, to answer all of our questions, food-related or otherwise.

Rockliffe Hall Hotel, Golf and Spa www.rockliffehall.com Hurworth on Tees Darlington County Durham DL2 2DU Tel: +44 (0) 1325 729999 Email: enquires@rockliffehall.com

Clockwise from left: Exterior view of Rockliffe Hall; Old Hall arches; Old Hall room; Rockliffe Hall Spa

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cover story: scottsdale, arizona

View of Troon Mountain - Deluxe View Room Four Seasons Scottsdale

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A Taste of Scottsdale Beyond Southwestern Cuisine In recent years, Scottsdale, Arizona has evolved into a true U.S. foodie destination. With hundreds of restaurants springing up, all featuring an array of creative and innovative menu offerings, this town is full of flavorful surprises at every turn.

contributed by MARLA CIMINI

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image courtesy of Four Seasons Scottsdale photographer: Barbara Kraft

cottsdale celebrates food annually at their culinary festival every April. Attracting enthusiasts from near and far for a variety of events throughout several days, the festival hosts activities like the ‘Great Arizona Picnic’ that features specialties from just about every restaurant in town. Attendees can also enjoy special wine tastings, and exclusive chef tasting dinners at select bistros, cafes and restaurants throughout the area.

Although one would have to pack up and permanently move to Scottsdale to experience all of the various eating establishments worth trying, it’s still exciting to visit and explore a few of the diverse culinary offerings. Some restaurants are outstanding, with talented chefs dedicated to producing increasingly rave-worthy fare – from Southwestern cuisine and beyond.

Elements at the Sanctuary Resort Elements, an award-winning establishment situated a few miles from downtown, offers farm-fresh American cuisine with an Asian flair that perfectly complements the dramatic views of its Camelback mountain locale.

Executive Chef Beau MacMillan’s attention to detail has brought the restaurant critical acclaim, as this Iron Chef (and Food Network Star) creates innovative fare that draws crowds from many places to sample his organic menu that focuses on sustainability.

A few favorite menu items include: ahi tuna tower (with avocado, shoyo onions and roasted peppers); lobster pork dumplings; double bone pork chop (shishito peppers, garlic chips and lime molasses glaze); and quinoa and eggplant fritters.

Located in the exquisite Sanctuary resort and spa, with its private casitas nestled in the mountains, Elements’ al fresco dining and stellar five-star service is an ideal match for a tranquil desert sunset meal. And a dinner at Elements is a perfect ending to a day spent enjoying the resort’s equally impressive spa.

Adjacent to Elements restaurant is the Jade bar, a gorgeous patio area complete with cozy couches and a blazing fire pit on chilly evenings. With amicable bartenders who take pride in their professionally-crafted cocktails, Jade provides a relaxing atmosphere for travelers and locals who appreciate a libation made with meticulous care. In addition to its impressive wine list, some homemade cocktail standouts include the Grapefruit Basil, Blueberry Tarragon Sour, and Eastern Raspberry Sidecar – all made with fresh juices, of course. On my recent visit, the bar patrons were involved in a fun and lively debate about the importance of the shape of ice cubes in certain mixed drinks … now that’s a group who is serious about their cocktails.

Sushi Roku at the W Scottsdale Just a few miles away in the heart of Old Town, the W Scottsdale offers a hip, urban escape with stunningly designed rooms and suites. Glamorous and chic, this hotel’s Sushi Roku restaurant is a cavernous spectacle of modern, high design, offering a sublime sushi experience, with an authentic Japanese menu created to impress foodies of all kinds.

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While Sushi Roku is a stylish, ‘see and be seen’ experience, and the ambient rock music provided a great mix of tempo and tone while dining, the friendly service and sumptuous dishes were the stars of the show, with the menu featuring the highest quality sushi and sashimi, prime steaks, specialty appetizers, and an extensive selection of hot entrees. The freshest ingredients are flown in daily, creating a menu that includes signature specialties like the Colorado lamb chops marinated in soy garlic, or spicy jumbo panfried shrimp. The full-service bar features a large selection of hot and cold sakes, special Asian martinis, and an extensive wine list.

In addition to standard sushi, and a wide assortment of creative sushi rolls, the menu features tempting offerings. Delicate and delightful, the tuna sashimi carpaccio, along with the octopus sashimi (Kyoto style) are fan favorites. Other popular menu items include the Chilean seabass with truffle miso glaze and premium wagyu Japanese beef ‘Tobanyaki.’

With a spacious sushi bar situated in the center of the restaurant, guests can view the professional sushi-making artistry, as all orders are freshly prepared. To experience the best of Sushi Roko, the restaurant also offers a signature ‘Omakase’ dinner, a multi-course artistic presentation of rolls, sashimi and 32

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other favorites created by the skilled chefs.

La Hacienda at the Fairmont For those craving a real taste of the Southwest, there are plenty of choices in Scottsdale, but the new La Hacienda restaurant at the upscale and expansive Fairmont Scottsdale Princess resort has a refreshing new take on authentic Mexican dining.

Combining the bold taste of classic Mexican cuisine with timeless European cooking techniques, Chef Richard Sandoval, a native of Mexico, incorporates vibrant, zesty flavors and fresh ingredients into La Hacienda at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess

Proof at the Four Seasons Resort A casual restaurant at the Scottsdale Four Seasons? Could this be a foodie dream come true?

The newly-opened Proof Canteen is a true departure from the traditional Four Seasons eatery, and instead features an assortment of comfort food in a relaxing, upbeat ambiance.

Reminiscent of a kitschy Route 66 diner, Proof’s down-home Americana menu choices include fried green tomatoes, deviled eggs, top: image courtesy of W Scottsdale bottom & right: images courtesy of the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess

Sushi Roku at the W Scottsdale

all of his plates, which feature fresh, indigenous ingredients, lighter dishes and unexpected pairings of traditional foods. The fresh guacamole, made tableside, is a delectable way to start the meal. Entrees such as carnitas hacienda (slow braised pork shoulder); crab enchiladas; and verduras a parilla (marinated seasonal vegetables) feature classic Mexican spices with a modern twist.

The eatery’s southwestern décor and atmosphere lend itself to the menu’s culinary theme as well, with several fire pits on the patio, Spanish architecture, wood-beamed ceilings, and beehive fireplaces, all accented by modern urban touches.

In addition, La Hacienda boasts a full Tequila bar, and a professional Tequila sommelier who helps guests navigate the 200plus varieties from 36 different labels, as well as discuss all things agave – and the many complex nuances of this particular spirit.

Taj Royal AttachĂŠ Morning Tea Service.

In-room dining at the

Fairmont Scottsdale Princess Global Living Magazine 33

pretzel knots, shrimp po’boys, and chicken and waffles (complete with bacon and bourbon syrup). Executive Sous Chef Jesse Hansen ensures that all the entrees and appetizers at Proof are simply mouth-watering. And although the restaurant may not reflect the traditional (and expected) Four Seasons ambiance, it’s not surprising that the service and menu are of the highest quality.

This lively eatery also includes an old-fashioned soda fountain that serves up nostalgic milkshakes,

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malts and spiked floats. Proof’s speakeasy bar features over 50 beers, with just as many wines and small batch and craft distilled spirits – from all 50 states. A few delightfully refreshing cocktails include the Sonoran sling, the spiced lavender mule, and the thyme square.

This casual hotspot is a fun hangout to chow down on breakfast, lunch or dinner – whether or not you are fortunate enough to be staying at one of this gorgeous resort’s private casitas nestled in the desert landscape.

Sanctuary at Camelback Mountain www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com Proof Canteen www.proofcanteen.com Four Seasons Scottsdale www.fourseasons.com/scottsdale W Scottsdale Hotel www.wscottsdalehotel.com Fairmont Hotel Scottsdale www.fairmont.com/scottsdale

left page: images courtesy of the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess right page: artwork by Aida Makoto; images courtesy of Ryan Roth

Proof Canteen at the Four Seasons Scottsdale

School Girls:

The Aida

Makoto Interview

W

ith prostitution, happening bars, soaplands and all manner of random sex-related establishments existing, the Japanese art culture has and is deeply affected by its sex culture.

It’s safe to say that Aida Makoto is one of the biggest artists in Japan today and, in my opinion, one of the most talented artists in the world.

The talent, ability and imagination of this man is second to none and should make many artists step back and see just how much they could learn.

I had heard a lot about Aida Makoto, from him being disturbed, a parasite on the image of Japan, a pervert, a master artist, and so many other things. It’s true that many of his works revolve around shocking imagery of naked female amputees being led around by a collar for sexual purposes, and it’s true there is a video of him masturbating for some time, which was filmed at an exhibition in New York City, and it’s true that many of his works are based around sex and young girls.

After seeing Makoto’s exhibition at the Mori Art Museum, Roppongi, Tokyo, I can’t say I enjoyed the entire experience, as I felt the space was simply too big and he should have done a slightly smaller exhibition. Showing such a large body of work, spanning his entire career, was simply lost on me, as I really wanted to see his best pieces, which I did, eventually, in the final gallery of the exhibition. But don’t get me wrong; for some, seeing how he developed is perhaps even more

fascinating.

Makoto’s exhibition gave me a great insight into this controversial Japanese master artist, or so I thought; and therein lies the problem. With so many making assumptions of who an artist really is, based on his works, and making up all sorts of fantastical stories to explain the inner most workings of an artist, in the end we don’t have a clue.

I can’t tell you how frustrating it’s been to listen to someone’s opinion about art or literature, giving specific meaning to a brush stroke or a verse in a song and, unless you directly ask an artist what something means, it will only be your opinion. It won’t even matter if 100 people have the same opinion, as it will always be an opinion, and that’s what I learned once again in personally meeting Aida Makoto.

Firstly, I would say that he’s not a man who wants to do anything sexual with young girls, no matter what you may assume from his works. When we met, I was taken aback by how much I assumed and how little I knew. Makoto is a charming, intelligent man with a nonchalant attitude. With every question I asked, he took his time and answered with honesty, sincerity and without any care for how it might come across, knowing the interview could potentially portray him in a negative light. He was, frankly, just honest.

We spoke for maybe an hour and a half and, in that time, I leaned many things about the man behind the

In Japan, the ‘school girl’ is, in many cases, both a power symbol and powerful. In the Japanese culture, older men can pay a young girl in products (bags, clothes, cell phones) to simply spend time with them and, although this is supposed to be an innocent affair in principle, things can develop quickly and few artists focus as much on this innocence and desirability of a school girl than Aida Makoto.

contributed by RYAN ROTH

art. He loves the idea of young girls, full of youth and energy, unbroken by the harsh world we live in, still maintaining innocence, and, after all, who doesn’t like that in our children? Would any of us like to think of youth in any other way?

Makoto never speaks to young girls as, in his words, “They have nothing to say.” I believe, without quoting him exactly, that he feels that an 11-year old and a man in his 40s couldn’t possibly have much to discuss. Aida Makoto therefore admires from a distance.

Makoto is modest and, although he teaches, he constantly plays down his ability. Perhaps this is a Japanese trait, but Makoto seems to have genuine modesty, and that’s something I personally appreciate. Having a few drinks with his students, going to new artists’ exhibitions and working on student projects all seem to be things he genuinely enjoys. Makoto believes an artist should always create something new – change and evolve.

If you met Aida Makoto, you would most likely be surprised to find a man so different from your expectations. He’s a man who’s grown up in a very different society, and his works might be shocking to us – they might even be shocking to some Japanese, but the sex industry, the culture and general life in Japan is something you can only understand after spending real

time there.

In the only country to ever be bombed by a nuclear device, where Christianity is not a widespread religion, where Christian views of sex don’t really apply, where school girls are revered, where temples are located right beside skyscrapers and S & M dungeons are found next to fine dining restaurants, it’s impossible to understand anything about the Japanese culture unless you’ve lived there, and Aida Makoto’s work takes all of this into account. In my estimation, he’s an exceptionally gifted artist and, as with all art, it’s highly subjective, but I personally find both his art, and the man, very interesting.

I’m not saying I like all of his art, but when you enter the last gallery of Makoto’s exhibition and you see ‘Ash Color Mountains’, you’ll find it hard to deny the skill of this man.

It’s important to say, however, that I do not have an opinion on what’s right or wrong about Aida Makoto’s work, in any moral or political context. All I can say is that he’s very talented, and I’m looking forward to seeing what he produces in the coming years.

Aida Makoto’s exhibition was featured at the Mori Art Museum in Tokyo (www.mori.art.museum) from November 17, 2012 through March 31, 2013. Visit www.ryan-roth.com or www.roth-mgmt.com for more information about the author of this article.

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EXPATRIATE LIFESTYLE expat adventures around the world

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ven the most remote geographic location on earth needs the attention of those willing to sacrifice a little for the greater good of others. When calling up images of barren wilderness, many might envision the vast white expanse of Antarctica, a desolate place where no one actually lives all year round.

by Aisha Ashraf

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Those lovely, polite people who did indeed stop to let us walk across minor roads, or waited for us to pull away from an intersection, were actually just following the rules of the road.

Penguins in Antarctica

on the breeding success of the penguin colony that resides there. So far no discernible impact has been found.”

Land expresses a common theme among fellow expats of an internal motivation to give back that is hard to explain.

“I have been involved with voluntary organizations all my life, such as the Brownies and Guides and local community environmental clean-up programs,” said Land. “I also did a lot of volunteering as part of my Duke of Edinburgh’s Award in my teens, including a John Muir Trust program, which is a wonderful initiative to encourage young people to love and protect wild places. Because I grew up in Scotland, I was lucky to live in close proximity to beautiful national parks and wild places, but I never imagined I’d end up anywhere as

photograph by Eleanor Land

Altruism in Antarctica It’s not the most comfortable or glamorous assignment, yet altruism has found its helpful way to the ends of the earth. Teams of volunteers brave the elements every year to help the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT) in their mission to conserve Antarctic buildings and artifacts and to promote and encourage the public's interest in its Antarctic heritage.

Since the Antarctic Treaty was signed in 1959 by representatives from a dozen countries “to keep the Cold War out of the coldest place on earth,” according to ‘A Brief History of Antarctica’ by Kristi Oloffson in Time World (Dec. 2009), it has been considered neutral ground – a shared international outpost for scientific research.

Harsh conditions dictate that work be done only during the more temperate months, November to March, when temperatures reach a balmy -30°F and the brutal white-outs finally settle down to crisp, clear blue skies and 20 or more hours of sunlight a day.

Few people can actually claim to be ‘from’ Antarctica, so the people who work, live and volunteer there are pretty much all expatriates, like Eleanor Land from Britain, who spent a season giving back through UKAHT. “I had been working in the field of cultural relations for four years, bringing people from different cultural backgrounds together to learn from each other and trust each other,” said Land. “As part of that work I was posted to Canada where I helped to manage an Arctic project for young people. I became fascinated by the Polar Regions, and particularly interested in Antarctica, which has no indigenous culture at all; yet, it is an entire continent preserved under international law purely for the purposes of science and peace, and any activity carried out must be for the benefit of all mankind.

That ethos appealed to me very strongly.”

The Trust cares for four historic huts on the Antarctic Peninsula and opens Port Lockroy (its flagship project) as a living museum each summer, to give tourists a glimpse into what life was like for some of Antarctica’s scientists.

“Antarctica has a fascinating history and very few people know about it – we hope to change that and to inspire a new generation of young people to care for Antarctica in the future,” said Rachel Morgan, director of UKAHT. “Because Port Lockroy is the most visited site in Antarctica, we also run a long-term environmental monitoring project to ensure human tourism is not having an effect

altruis ti c Expats Antarc

tica & Austra lia

Part III of a Sp ecial Three-P a r t Seri

by Ann e O'Co es nnell

top: photograh by Eleanor Land bottom: photogragh by Claire Murphy

wild as Antarctica!”

Wild or not, the Trust counts on the hale and hearty expats who brave the elements to move its mission forward.

“Our recruits are our ‘frontline’ staff, representing the UKAHT to the public in Antarctica and effectively ‘flying the flag for Britain’ because Port Lockroy is a British base,” said Morgan.

Altruism in Australia Moving north and east to yet another continent, a different type of research is underway at the Cancer Council of Queensland (CCQ) in Australia. Volunteer Winston Bent Forester is assisting in the data collection for The Living with Prostate Cancer Study, a randomized, controlled trial of a multimodal supportive care intervention for men recently diagnosed with localized prostate cancer.

“This study will help to identify a way to reduce unmet supportive care needs, promote physical activity and improve overall wellness in men with prostate cancer – support which is easy to access and cost-effective,” said Theresa Hunter, volunteer and Community Engagement Coordinator.

“Winston is entering the participant’s cost-care diaries, which are used to assist us in determining the economic feasibility of the intervention we are trialing and also allows us insight into the cost impact of prostate cancer treatment on patients. It’s very important in the sense that, without the data being entered, we can’t analyze it. The volunteers doing the entry rather than a researcher frees their time to focus on other aspects of the projects like analysis and recruitment.”

Forester was born in Costa Rica and moved to Australia in 2008 with his wife, an Australian national. When they met, he was doing volunteer work for ANAI Association in Costa Rica – an organization that fosters sustainable development.

Forester’s drive to give back to the community started when he was very young. “I believe ever since I was 10 years old.

My fifth grade teacher was a person who cared a lot about environment preservation,” said Forester. “I believe he has

United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust volunteer Eleanor Land

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Cancer Council of Queensland volunteer Winsten Bent Forester

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Global living, global giving Nothing seems to dampen the spirits of expats who give back. Just like the postman who delivers the mail no matter what, these happy souls aren’t fulfilled unless there are others who thrive due to their selfless actions.

“I have been very fortunate in the opportunities I have had in life and I felt strongly about wanting to help support this fascinating continent in whatever way I could,” said Land. “It’s a continent where the environment is protected, mineral extraction and mining is prohibited, nuclear dumping is forbidden, military activity is banned and all national programs must be entirely transparent and largely collaborative. It’s the last place left on earth that has this semi-utopian philosophy and I think it’s important to protect that.”

Forester’s value system drives him in a similar way to Land’s.

“I don’t believe it’s giving back; I believe it is a responsibility to be part of the changes for good that we all want for our humanity,” says Forester, “be that finding cures for cancer, eliminating poverty in the world, or ensuring the most appropriate use of our resources while preserving our planet.”

Forester’s commitment to his adopted country is so strong that he recently became an Australian citizen. His mission in life is to find a job that will allow him to pursue both of his passions: finding a cure for cancer and other problems that affect societal development. “My responsibility as a global citizen is to do what I can wherever I can to help solve the problems that affect our society and environment,” he said.

Forester has found that his altruistic endeavors help him find like-minded people with similar values.

“I’ve participated in various conservation programs as a volunteer and as a staff member,” said Forester. His enthusiasm for conservation saw him volunteering for an aquatic bio-monitoring program in Costa Rica, which was focused on studying water quality of a river system as well as a marine turtle conservation project, both led by the same association.

As Global Soul author Pico Iyer said recently in an interview with fellow author and expat expert Robin Pascoe, “I certainly believe that being an expat can make a person more aware of one’s blessings… we just have to think about global living in a more soulful way, which means having a global conscience and sense of responsibility.”

Land’s contemplations echo the same sentiment: “Often the most powerful thing you can be reminded of by volunteering abroad is our common humanity – we’re all human beings just trying to make the best of our lives.”

If you’d like to learn more about how to become a Friend of The Antarctic Heritage Trust, visit www.ukaht.org or email info@ukaht.org.

For information on how to support the programs at the Cancer Council Queensland, currently recruiting for more than 80 volunteer positions – from patient transport driver to peer support for those affected by cancer, visit www.cancerqld.org.au.

images provided by Cancer Council Queensland

passed on to me that sense of responsibility for ensuring that the resources that exist today can be used by the people who live today, yet ensure that there will be much available for the people who will live tomorrow.”

Forester, currently pursuing a business degree full-time at Griffith University – majoring in human resource management, is also passionate about ensuring the future health and wellbeing of humanity. He chose to volunteer for CCQ because he has witnessed the effect of this particular disease as he watched it take the lives of many family and friends. Not surprising as, according to the World Cancer Research Fund International, “There were an estimated 12.7 million cancer cases around the world in 2008… This number is expected to increase to 21 million by 2030.”

“I believe that with hard work and lots of help, charities and research institutions will be able to find the cure for this,” Forester said. “I believe people’s contribution to society should be focused on finding the solutions to the problems that affect our environment and society. This logic is understandable when one assumes that environmental degradation correlates with society’s struggles.”

Expat volunteers make a significant impact on the operations of NGOs around the world, with individuals contributing both time and financial support.

“CCQ values diversity and benefits from skilled volunteers who originate from many countries, including the UK, Germany, Brazil, Canada, Vietnam, Papua New Guinea, Singapore, Sri Lanka and Fiji, just to name a few,” said Hunter. “Cancer Council Queensland was founded by a group of volunteers in 1961 and today we carry on their vision for a cancer-free future. Volunteers are critical to achieving this goal.”

According to Hunter, Forester is one of 2,500 regular volunteers who commit both time and expertise to the organization. At busier times of the year, CCQ calls on an additional 40,000 supporters from the Queensland community, along with corporate organizations that help with annual fundraising events.

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ith hindsight, I see now that things looked shaky from the outset. Moving from the U.K. where ‘a decent cuppa’ is a fundamental human right, to a country inordinately proud of a chain serving coffee that tastes, in the words of some Canadians, like laundry runoff, should have been indication enough of a radically different national palette. But in my single-minded obsession with shipping manifests and visa arrangements, I never gave tea a thought, unless it was to make another pot.

One mouthful of the Red Rose tea at the hotel where we stayed standard blended tea brands when we arrived in Canada was back home. The relief when I almost enough to make me jump spotted Tetley, Yorkshire Tea back on the plane. Prepared at the and PG Tips made my legs go end of a hard day’s house-hunting, wobbly. Exultant, I seized a it was meant to soothe fatigue but box of Tetley but, once home, instead left me with a bad taste disappointment struck again; and a desperate hankering for it tasted nothing like its U.K. home. Some people can see the One woman’s search for the classic ‘cuppa’ counterpart. I felt as though future in their tealeaves; I began someone had promised to to dread it before I’d even drained the share their chocolate with me, told me to cup. Ever noticed how it’s the small contributed by Aisha Ashraf close my eyes, and popped a pickled onion things that can undo you in a foreign in my mouth instead!

The first few days in another land?

Eyeing the packet darkly, I zeroed in on Like wine, tea differs in taste the words ‘Orange Pekoe’, a mysterious term country – when you weave depending on the soil and environment I hadn’t come across before, that appeared through layers of disorienting it’s grown in. There are almost as many on most of the boxed black tea. I cursed this strangeness – remain in the different types as stars in the sky, but ‘Orange Pekoe’ and Canada’s affection for memory with the permanence my longtime favorite is Assam. A cup it, railing at such Canadian obtuseness that of a tombstone epitaph. of Earl Grey might be perfect for an sought to thoughtlessly foist this foul brew afternoon pick-me-up and Ceylon is on all. But some post-rant online research Events become embroidered pleasant enough but, for my daily fix, soon undermined my one-woman smear in the re-telling, much as nothing beats Assam with its rich, campaign, revealing ‘orange pekoe’ as a lichen prettifies the stone, malty flavor and robust color, and it reference to the grading of tealeaf wholeness but the message beneath is was the one variety missing from the and size rather than variety. Mollified, and unchanged. My first cup of grocery store shelves. Twinnings Earl more than a little sheepish, I felt conflicting tea in Canada was one such Grey, Lady Grey and English Breakfast waves of optimism, ‘So orange pekoe isn’t were all mine for the taking, but Assam the culprit’, and despair, ‘What hope then memorable experience – for was nowhere to be seen. How could of finding an alternative?’. I hastily arranged all the wrong reasons. this be? for Assam to feature heavily in the next care Giving Canada the benefit of the package from home. doubt and clinging to the belief that, in a loose-leaf Banaspaty Assam. I put the kettle on Two years have passed and my cupboard land of immigrants, most foreign foibles immediately; I needed something to help me still holds more tea than Boston Harbor in would be catered to in some form, I grapple with the ridiculous sum of 16 Canadian 1773, bringing a stability to my outlook settled into my new life and into my dollars that the leaves had cost him. The price that nothing else had afforded while my supply of tea shipped from home. Tea back home wouldn’t have been more than three supply line was in question. And, with fanatic that I am, I made a mental note British pounds, the equivalent of approximately that delightful penchant for irony that Life not to accept any offers of tea at friend’s $4.68 Canadian. At the rate I drink tea, it just seems to have, it was only then, when my houses – to avoid any barely-touched wasn’t economically viable. needs for the foreseeable future were more cups of embarrassment (most people than adequately met, that quite by accident I In the supermarket, I scanned the wall of drank coffee anyway). Months passed unfamiliar packaging on the tea/coffee aisle. came across a large box of loose-leaf Barooti and a well-intentioned, tea-loving expat The Red Rose trauma still loomed large in my Assam in an Afghan grocery store. While it friend, also in Canada, heard of my mind and I’d avoided this area, happy to lose doesn’t compare to the Twinnings, it’s indeed anguish and visited the tea boutiques myself in my now dwindling reserves. I was a comfort to have a back-up supply available of Toronto, gifting me a 3.2oz tin of anxious to find anything that replicated the on this continent.

there's no 'T'

image by Aisha Ashraf

in Canada

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across borders

Ditch. Store. Take. If those labels, or similar ones, categorize mounting piles of books, clothing and general household items around your home, you are probably about to get back on the treadmill of relocation. contributed by Apple Gidley 40

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image copyright Mayer George 2013, used under license from Shutterstock

friendships

he end of the school year, certainly in the northern hemisphere, is the traditional time that corporations shimmy their employees to that vast area known as ‘abroad’. It can be a frustrating time logistically and an emotional seesaw for children and adults alike, whether it is the first move away from family and the familiar, or the twenty-first move from what has become familiar, with friendships often taking on the familial role.

British writer Hugh Kingsmill said, “Friends are God’s apology for relations.”

Some might consider that harsh, particularly

when thinking about their Great Aunt Petunia or Uncle Reggie, who can stand on his head and whistle a tune at the same time, but the reality is that we do choose our friends.

Friendship born of shared experiences in environments not our own is one of the fundamental benefits of an overseas posting. Often the harder the posting the greater the friendship, which can transcend years of separation and be rekindled in a heartbeat – in large part because few people that have met since that particular period of one’s life in Ulan Bator, for example, can

have a true understanding of life in such a place without having been there. In a similar vein, though significantly more dangerous, are the bonds of friendships formed while in battle and which hold deep through reintegration into civilian life, regardless of subsequent lives and disparate careers.

It is those shared experiences that forge the strong links of friendship.

Death and taxes we know are irrefutable, and equally so to another painful element of life, particularly a nomadic one – that of goodbyes. The fear that those links might erode when one goes to Stockholm and the other Senegal, from a shared posting and experience in Swaziland, is what makes goodbye so hard for many expatriates.

Similarly, with those friends made locally, we leave their host country with the knowledge that circumstance might negate us ever meeting again … and that is hard. The RAFT acronym, first coined by sociologist David Pollock, is a useful tool to remember and keeps us afloat and able to have a safe and good goodbye: Reconciliation – Let go of grievances, either by or to you.

Affirmation – Let people know their value to you as a friend, colleague or beloved domestic helper.

Farewells – Always say goodbye; it opens the door to hellos.

Transition – Recognize that leaving one place does not mean forgetting it, so be curious about your new location.

Expat life might seem daunting and alienating to the novice nomad, but it is surprising how often friendships are rekindled from long-ago postings when we find ourselves in the same patch of the world again.

Twenty-seven years ago in Singapore I met a man whose sparkly paper hat was in danger of being knocked sideways as we wrestled for a prime position under a rather grand dining table. We were on opposing sides of a New Year’s Eve treasure hunt.

Ignoring the entreaties of our vociferous teammates, we formed a quiet alliance and shared the clue. Since that noisy night, he – and his family – have become a part of my family’s lives, inextricably linked through four countries that quite by chance we have found ourselves sharing. And now the next generation, the children of our two families, are staying connected from different sides of the world. We have, in essence, been each other’s family around the world.

In pre-Internet days, staying in touch took

more effort. However, although we might not have been in constant communication, we always knew where each one of us was and, when our paths crossed again, reconnection was eased by those memories – some fun and some difficult, but shared nonetheless.

Equally, there have been wonderful people whose company has been enjoyed but who have not remained on our radar. That does not negate the intensity of our friendship at the time. So while building our RAFT, we also have to recognize that people do drift out of our lives, but that doesn’t mean their memory doesn’t provoke a wry smile, an outright laugh, or a level of sadness.

No friendship, or lover, should ever be regretted. They were precious at, and of, a certain time and place.

Children, particularly in the middle years, can suffer the agony of lost friendships, often perceived, on a daily basis. The difference for the itinerant child, that one we coax around the world with us, is that sometimes there isn’t enough time left in a posting to make up after a friendship has soured. The lack of upfront reconciliation before leaving can rankle a child into feeling disloyal and actually defer him or her from taking those brave steps in the new location to meet new friends.

We, the parent, suffer the agony along with our children. And children – being children – are adept at playing on that guilt.

The cries of “I hate you” or “I’ll never have another friend” linger long after said child is busy playing hopscotch, tennis or the latest computer game with his new friend.

For both child and parent, in this age of instant communication and vast social media networks, it is sometimes difficult to remember or accept that people do move on, and the lack of an immediate response to email or a comment on Facebook does not necessarily mean a falling out, or a deliberate snub, but rather a realignment of priorities – much as when a couple commits to each other and a natural loosening of the familial bonds is experienced. That doesn’t lessen the love felt for family; it’s merely the natural way ‘a new tribe’ is formed.

In the end, as we sort our ditch, store and take piles, we must remember it is always the people we meet on our global path that make a place special. So, leave well, travel safely, relish new beginnings and remember Lennon’s and McCartney’s words: “I get by with a little help from my friends” – wherever they might be in the world.

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Emerald Lake Lodge's Point Magazine Cabin balcony 42 Global Living

The Changing Faces of a Trailing Spouse

Finding My Identity contributed by Nichole Esparon

image courtesy of Emerald Lake Lodge

photography by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

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n a trip to Singapore a few years ago, I had a conversation with an expatriate friend that would eventually change the course of my life. Having not long before relocated from the U.K. to Singapore where her husband was setting up the company’s regional headquarters, she had the archetypal expat lifestyle: idyllic house, generous income and the ultimate outdoor playground on her doorstep in the form of one of the world’s most vibrant cities. I don’t mind admitting – I was more than a little jealous.

But that day, sipping her Chablis by the buzzy riverside where we sat, my friend launched into a jaw-dropping attack on her life that shattered the rose-colored glasses through which I had been looking at it. “I’m invisible,” she suddenly poured out. “I’m not even sure who I am here. I hate it.” Her words got me thinking. Just how did newly relocated professionals pick up and leave their regular lifestyles, with its home comforts and social networks, to jet off to a completely foreign environment to work?

Years later, I found myself back in London following a period of working internationally, at home with two young pre-school children, stung with a sense of isolation and loneliness that I was in no way prepared for, when memories of that day at Singapore Riverside flooded my mind. And so began a new phase in my life that, unbeknownst to us at the time, had germinated during that fateful afternoon. I embarked on a voyage through the lives of accompanying partners about relocation. I was curious – the glamour and excitement was clearly a huge incentive, but there was clearly more to it.

What made so-called ‘trailing spouses’ agree to suspend their own careers and social lives to pursue their partners’ goals? How easy was it to integrate into a completely new location? And was there anything I could do to help them in the process?

It used to be the case only a couple of decades ago that companies could practically take spouses’ cooperation for granted when relocating employees.

They would largely be willing participants, packing their families’ lives into

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suitcases and moving vans, ready to be recreated in a new environment. Fast forward to 2013 and the landscape is almost unrecognizable. Well-educated and highly independent, today’s accompanying partners are driven to achieving dizzy heights in their own careers. Not surprisingly, there is increasing reluctance to the idea of putting their goals on hold – or in some cases abandoning them altogether – to accompany their partners on relocation.

A survey carried out in 2008 by Permits Foundation (a lobbying organization working to persuade governments to provide work visas for accompanying partners on relocation) discovered that 82 percent of accompanying partners have university degrees and almost 90 percent were working prior to their partners’ assignment. Yet, during the assignment, only 36 percent were employed. Put those statistics together and it isn’t hard to imagine the scene: one partner desperately trying to get to grips with a foreign work environment while an intelligent, highly educated partner sits at home bored.

Despite the drawbacks, relocation offers a mesh of unique experiences that many find irresistible. Opportunities offered by an international move are vast: a chance to re-evaluate life choices, gain new skills or completely change careers – the options are seemingly endless for those that choose to embrace them. And the sense of adventure, glamour and excitement associated with the expat lifestyle is clearly still very much in evidence during my conversations with trailing 44

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spouses.

It seems perverse that one of the greatest advantages of relocation is also one of its greatest disadvantages: anonymity. I have heard it described as both a help and a hindrance at various times. Meeting one of our newly-arrived members at their welcome evening earlier this year, it was clear which side of the fence she sat on: “I didn’t realize how restricted I had become by my own identity until I was anonymous,” she said. “Suddenly, I’m free to be whoever I choose to be, not what I’m expected to be – because, actually, there aren’t any expectations.

How can there be? Nobody knows me yet. I find that incredibly liberating.”

It makes sense. No one will know that you were the last teenager to have a boyfriend in high school – leaving you free to reinvent yourself as a vamp, if that’s what you choose. On the other hand, if you want to be the pure-as-thedriven-snow mother of four, there’s no one to spoil the image by divulging those drunken episodes at university.

In other words, you can be exactly who you want to be.

Yet, while many might welcome the anonymity that a new location offers, others confess waking up in a state of panic when they suddenly realize that they have to actually choose who they want to be. It’s not uncommon to find spouses withholding from integrating into their new environments simply because they’re working out what to say when people ask the dreaded question: “What do you do?” My advice to any of my members who ask me is clear: Jump in. We can only truly develop a sense

of identity once we’ve taken steps to integrate into the host location. To a large extent, our identities are shaped by our relationships, and so to regain the sense of self we crave, we need to start developing those relationships.

When it comes to making friends, and those oh-so-vital connections, each city will have its own social ‘rituals,’ and newly-relocated families often find it isn’t as easy to integrate socially as they had imagined. London, for example, is a city where building friendships can be a bit of a minefield for the uninitiated. Jump onto any mode of public transport in England’s capital and the experience of the British reserve will be immediately evident.

Those that try to break through it with small talk will often be met by a wall of total silence, leaving them with a sense of rejection. Does that mean the British are unfriendly? Not at all. The British culture simply doesn’t allow for conversations to generally be started in such situations. In other words, there is a particular social ‘ritual’ that needs to be undertaken before the British can make friends.

When it comes down to it, sure, the expat lifestyle is glamorous; sure it’s exciting. But we should also celebrate the many sacrifices that globally mobile professionals must make to achieve success abroad in the broadest terms.

We also need to appreciate that each time they move on to new pastures, those lessons have to be relearned in the context of the new location.

My journey through the lifestyles and preferences of relocating families over the past years has left me with a huge sense of admiration for repeat assignees; it has also left me with one inevitable conclusion. With all its challenges, the global lifestyle offers a unique gift that few people are lucky enough to ever receive: the chance to design a truly bespoke identity.

all images for spread provided by Nichole Esparon, used under license from Shutterstock

We should celebrate the sacrifices that many globally mobile professionals must make to achieve success abroad in the broadest terms.

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previous page: image courtesy of Rolls-Royce Motor Company this page: images courtesy of Rolls-Royce Motor Company

images courtesy of The Devonshire ArmsCountry House Hotel at Bolton Abbey

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BOOK REVIEWS FIVE OF THE BEST...

Column created by Jo Parfitt www.summertimepublishing.com www.expatbookshop.com

HOW-TO BOOKS compiled bY jo parfitt

In this section of Global Living magazine, we feature five examples of good books in a specific genre. This issue we focus on 'how-to' books. Expatriates often turn to ‘how-to’ books to help them solve a problem. Books on subjects such as buying property, understanding your expat children or coping with culture shock could all fall into this category. Here I share reviews of five books that you may not have heard about but that do a great job of answering some key questions – questions you may not even realize you had. If you would like to suggest books for review in this section, please contact: Jo@summertimepublishing.com.

Expat Teens Talk

How To Be A Global Grandparent: Living with the Separation

How To Be A

GLOBAL GRANDPARENT Living with the separation

Peter Gosling & Anne Huscroft | Zodiac Publishing 140 pages, $12.99 The authors are, respectively, a global grandparent and a global parent and know first-hand what it feels like to be separated from family by an ocean. First published in 2009, this helpful book is an essential read for any grandparent wishing to stay in touch with family abroad, sharing personal anecdotes from the authors’ own experiences alongside Peter Gosling & Anne Huscroft invaluable nuggets of information. There’s advice on everything from visiting your grandchildren overseas to receiving them in your home, followed by a step-by-step, easy-to-use guide on the Internet and even how to get the most out of telephone conversations. This book will enrich the lives of many a forlorn grandma and grandpa. Reviewer: Laura Dunbar With Jo Parfitt

Subtle Differences, Big Faux Pas

Elizabeth Vennekens-Kelly | Summertime Publishing 382 pages, $1677.29 (also available for Kindle) As someone who comes from a mixed background and has lived and worked in different countries, I thought I knew a fair bit about cross-cultural communication.

Reading Subtle Differences, Big Faux Pas made me realize that there is always more to be learned about this topic.

Elizabeth Vennekens-Kelly, an American married to a German and living in Belgium, provides a manual about cross-cultural communication. She presents a wealth of useful information in a light-hearted and entertaining manner. In fact, each chapter ends with a fun quiz to test your knowledge on the subject. This book explains that what is acceptable in one culture can be offensive in another, and vice versa. Its fun anecdotes make it an engaging read.

Reviewer: Rawia Liverpool 48

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Buying Property in Portugal

Gabrielle Collison | Summertime Publishing 212 pages, $18 (also available for Kindle) Collison manages to write an instructive manual on property buying in the popular European country of Portugal. It’s a very practical guide, well thought out and insightful.

Collison provides an accessible, step-by-step approach to a complicated process and adds to it her personal account of the pitfalls that she encountered herself. The checklists are of top importance and her research appears to be very comprehensive. Even if I were not planning to move to Portugal, I would read this book in order to be enlightened about the property purchasing minefield. It certainly opened my eyes. Collison is a talented writer who makes complicated matters look easy.

Reviewer: Niamh Ni Bhroin (author of The Singing Warrior)

Buy Spanish Property and Move to Spain - Safely

Nick Snelling | Summertime Publishing 328 pages, $22.59 (also available for Kindle) Planning to buy a home in Spain?

Nick Snelling has useful information to offer prospective buyers, not only on acquiring property in Spain but also on local lifestyle, health and education. Readers will be so wellinformed that their move will have a very good chance of being for the long term. Snelling has an indomitable spirit and asks tough questions for you, such as: “Why do I want to relocate? Will it improve the overall quality of my life significantly?” Along the way he explains all the pertinent Spanish terms too, which is invaluable. Snelling loves his own life in Valencia with his family and he understands Spanish real estate, culture and bureaucracy. He shares his knowledge regularly on the website CultureSpain.com and has written a number of books and articles on related subjects, so if you are serious about moving to Spain, his work is worth checking out. Reviewer: Laura Dunbar

book cover art courtesy of listed publishers

Dr. Lisa Pittman & Diana Smit | Summertime Publishing 202 pages, $19.35 Helping the voice of a seldom-considered victim of the expat lifestyle – the teenager – to be heard, Pittman and Smit are both experts in their field. Pittman is a psychologist and Smit an educationalist. This one-of-a-kind book explores the genuine stories of expat teenagers around the world, and provides advice on common dilemmas that traveling teens often face, such as coping with alcohol, isolation, bereavement and the divorce of their parents. The authors use real-life questions and then proceed to share the responses of peers, parents, teachers and counselors. The reader is then invited to make up his or her own mind.

A useful read for teens themselves and their long-suffering parents. No school or expat home’s bookshelf should be without it. Great to chomp on a morsel or two occasionally or consume in one absorbing bite, this book teaches teens how to draw on the positive aspects of being a Third Culture Kid in order to get the most from their amazing adventures abroad and grow up to be well-rounded, secure adults.

Reviewer: Laura Dunbar (expat teen)

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