2019 TRAVEL GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc

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2019 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

californiatravelguide.travel

12 $6.95

UNIQUE REGIONS

TO DISCOVER AND EXPLORE

DISPLAY UNTIL JUNE 15, 2019

CLASSIC DRIVE TOURS

DYNAMIC CITIES & CULTURAL RICHES ROMANTIC GETAWAYS & LUXURIOUS SPAS DRAMATIC LANDSCAPES LAID-BACK BEACH TOWNS MAGICAL THEME PARKS WHERE TO SHOP, HIKE, BIKE, SKI, SURF

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CONTENTS

GET YOUR BEARINGS 8

CALIFORNIA MAP

EDITOR’S NOTE

Finding Your Favorite Place

DISCOVER Dreams of the Golden State

HISTORY A Place for Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

DISCOVER THE GOLDEN STATE 20

CITIES

Surprising Cities

SUMMER SPORTS

Celebrating the Fruit of the Vine

The Outdoors Are Calling

WINTER SPORTS

WINE COUNTRY

CASINOS Places to Play

Winter Wonderland

MUSEUMS & ART A Thriving Scene

ON THE COVER The Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco.

THEME PARKS

The Fun Starts Here

SHOPPING Paradise Found 38 Taubman Shopping Centers 40 The Outlets at Tejon 42 Carmel Plaza

ROAD TRIPS

CUISINE Dining Out

PHOTO:ALAMY

On with the Show

MOVIES The Stuﬀ of Dreams

STATE & NATIONAL PARKS Awesome by Nature

Get Behind the Wheel and Go

PERFORMING ARTS

GOLF Swing Away!

SPAS & WELLNESS Stop In, Bliss Out Paddleboarding at Marina Del Rey, top.

6 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

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EXPLORE CALIFORNIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TOURISM REGIONS 74

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA 78

Berkeley

Healdsburg

Santa Clara

CENTRAL COAST 88

Ventura County Coast

Pismo Beach

Morro Bay

Gilroy

DESERTS

FIND USEFUL INFORMATION

100 Palm Springs

155 102

RESOURCES

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

GENERAL INFORMATION

106 San Diego Zoo & Safari Park

CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL

109

PLACER COUNTY/ERIK BERGEN; ERIC BERGEN. OPPOSITE: MARINA DEL REY CVB

116

INLAND EMPIRE

CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS

112 Ontario

HOLIDAYS

114 Big Bear Lake

CLIMATE/TEMPERATURES MEDICAL CARE & TRAVEL INSURANCE

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

DRIVING REGULATIONS

122 Marina del Rey

RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES

124

ORANGE COUNTY

128

NORTH COAST

DRIVING DISTANCES

132 Humboldt County

134

HIGH SIERRA 138 Mammoth Lakes 140 Lake Tahoe South Shore

144

GOLD COUNTRY

148

CENTRAL VALLEY

152

SHASTA CASCADE

50 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 7

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199

Tulelake

Dorris

Fort Dick

Willow Ranch

Klamath R.

Crescent City

Del Norte

139

Yreka

Clear Creek

Montague Bray

Lake City

Modoc

Siskiyou

Hackamore

Klamath

299 299

Etna

Weed Mount Shasta

Callahan 3

Dunsmuir

Likely

Cecilville

SHASTA CASCADE

Nubieber 299

Sacramento R.

Trinidad Lamoine

139

Blue Lake Arcata

Trinity

299

Hat Creek

Humboldt

Lassen

Weaverville

Big Bar

Shasta Lake

395

Shasta

Fortuna

Redding

Ferndale 3

Rio Dell

273

Susanville

Anderson Platina

Mineral

Blocksburg

Honeydew

Westwood

Eel R.

Milford

Red Bluff

Taylorsville

Te h a m a

Whitethorn

Quincy

Corning Paskenta

Leggett

NORTH COAST

Termo

Plumas

101

Portola Paradise

Orland

Dos Rios

Chico

Loyalton 1

Glenn

Biggs

Willits

Elk 128

Nevada

Gridley Colusa 20

Yu b a

Sutter

Marysville

Yuba City ento Sacram

253

Lakeport

113

Yo l o

Calistoga

Sebastopol

Saint Helena

Rohnert Park

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

Davis

Napa

Santa Rosa

San Rafael

Berkeley

San Francisco

Contra Costa

Lathrop

120

Ripon

Alameda

Waterford

Stanislaus

Fremont

132

140

Mammoth Lakes

Mariposa

Turlock

Mariposa

Madera

Patterson 140

Livingston

Santa Clara San Jose

Atwater

Newman

Merced

Bishop Coarsegold

San Mateo

Los Gatos

Merced

Morgan Hill Santa Cruz

120

Mono

Yosemite Village

Oakdale Riverbank

Modesto

Livermore

Lee Vining

Manteca 99

Milpitas

Tuolumne City 120

Sunnyvale

167

Sonora

San Joaquin

Hayward

San Mateo Redwood City

Bridgeport Tuolumne

Angels City

Stockton

Alameda

Daly City

395

Calaveras

San Andreas

Concord

Oakland

San Francisco

182 108

Jackson

Lodi

Rio Vista

Martinez

Galt

Solano

Vallejo

HIGH SIERRA

Alpine

Sutter Creek

Ione

160

Fairfield 37

Coleville Amador

Sacramento

Napa

Novato

Markleeville 88

Vacaville

Marin

Placerville

Sacramento

Dixon

Petaluma

Folsom

Woodland Windsor

El Dorado

Rocklin

Roseville

Sonoma

South Lake Tahoe

Auburn

Lincoln

Cloverdale

Lake Tahoe

Colfax

Wheatland

Clearlake

Placer

128

Point Arena

Nevada City Grass Valley

Colusa

Williams

Truckee

Live Oak

Lake

Ukiah

Santa Clara

Chowchilla

Fresno

Dos Palos

Gilroy

Santa Cruz

Trimmer 99

Firebaugh

Seaside

San Benito

245

Selma

198

Death Valley

Woodlake Lemoore

King City

136

Dinuba

145

Greenfield

190

Visalia

Hanford 43

198

Cartago Exeter

Tulare

Huron

Inyo

Reedley

Kingsburg

Soledad

Owenyo

Parlier

San Joaquin

Gonzales

Kings

Sanger

DESERTS

Independence

Clovis

180

Big Sur

190

Tulare

Lindsay

127

Haiwee

Coalinga

198

CENTRAL VALLEY

Fresno

Mendota

Salinas

Marina

Monterey

Hollister

395

Madera 33

Watsonville

168

Lakeshore 168

Los Banos 152

Capitola

has 58 counties, whose boundaries are shown on this map. The state’s tourism regions sometimes spill over several counties and in some places jump borders to include portions of counties. The colored sections on the map show where these regions are.

89 49

Mendocino

Sierra

Downieville

Butte

Willows

Oroville

Fort Bragg

THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA

GOLD COUNTRY

208

Monterey

Corcoran

Porterville

178

Johnsondale

Avenal

101

Shoshone

Kings

Tecopa Delano

5 1

Searles Valley

McFarland

San Simeon

El Paso de Robles

Mountain Mesa

Atascadero Morro Bay

Shafter Buttonwillow

San Luis Obispo

Ridgecrest

rn R.

Ke 99

178

Bakersfield

Kern

119

Cima

Arvin

227

Arroyo Grande

California City

Tehachapi

Taft Maricopa

Afton

Santa Maria

166

Guadalupe

Boron

Santa Barbara

Barstow

San Bernardino

Needles

14 138

Helendale

Lancaster

Lake Hughes

Lompoc

Ludlow

Buellton

Adelanto

Ve n t u r a

Santa Barbara San Buenaventura

Lake Havasu

138

Hesperia

Simi Valley

Oxnard Agoura Hills

Glendale

Chubbuck

247

Big Bear Lake

La Canada Flintridge

Thousand Oaks 1

Victorville

Los Angeles

Santa Clarita

118

Bagdad

Apple Valley

Palmdale Fillmore

Santa Paula

Essex

247

Solvang

Frazier Park

101

CENTRAL COAST

C a l i f o r n i a

Saltdale

San Luis Obispo Grover Beach

127

178 65

Wasco

Pasadena

Fontana

Los Angeles

o R.

Eureka

orad

Orick

Yucca Valley

San Bernardino

Col

Orleans

Alturas

Riverside

Twentynine Palms

Rice

Desert Hot Springs 177

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

Palos Verdes Estates

Torrance

Anaheim Santa Ana

Long Beach Huntington Beach

Moreno Valley

Corona

Palm Springs

Hemet

Irvine

Cathedral City Palm Desert

Lake Elsinore

Orange

Riverside

Indio

Desert Center 10

Costa Mesa

Blythe

Laguna Niguel

371

Oasis Avalon

ORANGE COUNTY

Carlsbad

Salton Sea

Calipatria

Escondido

Encinitas

Poway

Westmorland 79

San Diego Coronado

Brawley

Imperial

Santee

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

Imperial

San Diego

San Marcos

111

Borrego Springs

Vista

Oceanside

El Centro

El Cajon Lemon Grove

Chula Vista

Imperial Reservoir

Holtville

Calexico

Imperial Beach

INLAND EMPIRE

FINE ROADSIDE DINING It’s no secret that innumerable superb dining experiences await on California’s famous coast-

» TIP

hugging Highway 1. One excellent ﬁnd is the Little River Inn on the Mendocino County coast just three miles south of the town of Mendocino. Stop in for Executive Chef Marc Dym’s fresh steamed clam chowder, bouillabaisse or pine nut crusted salmon, and dine in a comfortable atmosphere with big ocean views. Better yet, stay the night!

8 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

AUBRIE PICK

INSIDER’S

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2019 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR WRITERS

CIRCULATION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF FINANCE DIRECTOR OF RETAIL MARKETING

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

CALIFORNIA OFFICE

Joseph P. Turkel

Collier C. Granberry Larry Habegger Judi Scharf Mark Tzerelshtein David Armstrong Christopher P. Baker Susan Brady (Resources) Laura Del Rosso Christine Delsol Bill Fink John Flinn Don George Marcy Gordon Lenore Greiner Robert Kaufman Maribeth Mellin Laura Ness Jill K. Robinson Bonnie Smetts Lavinia Spalding Matt Villano Laurie Weed Jacqueline Yau Julia Wall

Gloria Mungo Craig Sweetman

Collier C. Granberry Joe Turkel 1288 Columbus Ave., Suite 292 San Francisco, CA 94133 TEL: 1-888-700-4464 • FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel The Travel Guide to California is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc., a leading lifestyle media company and publisher of The Travel Guides to Canada, The Travel Guide to Florida, The Travel Guide to California, and Dreamscapes Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.

CANADIAN OFFICE

Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. 3 Bluﬀwood Drive Toronto, Ontario M2H 3L4 TEL: 416-497-5353, 1-888-700-4464 FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel No part of this publication can be reproduced or duplicated without the written permission of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this magazine are those of the writers and do not necessarily reﬂect the views of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement 40047932. Contents © copyright 2019 Printed in Canada ISSN 1926-304X (Print) ISSN 1927-7245 (Online)

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Finding Your Favorite Place Once again this past year I made what has become

town of Lodi, the Gold Country counties of Amador,

an annual pilgrimage to Tuolumne Meadows in the back-

Calaveras and El Dorado. You’ll ﬁnd your favorite wine

country of Yosemite National Park. I go in September,

along with your favorite place, but you may have a hard

when the summer crowds have diminished but warm

time choosing because there are so many.

weather hangs on for a few weeks before the deep freeze

When it comes to cities, there are favorites large and

of winter comes to the high country. Here I take the time

small, and favorites within favorites: neighborhoods,

to reﬂect on the good fortune in my life while hiking to

parks, museums, galleries, restaurants, bars, cafés. The

my favorite spots—Lembert Dome, Soda Springs, Cathe-

last few years I’ve expanded my theater horizons to the

dral Lakes, Lyell Canyon, Elizabeth Lake. Even to a

Berkeley Rep, and recently saw a scintillating world pre-

favorite old tree with a hollow at eye level where I once

miere of Paradise Square, a musical set in Civil War-era

saw two mountain bluebirds coming and going to feed

Manhattan that I expect is destined for Broadway. Even

their young.

when you’ve lived here for decades you can still discover new things, ﬁnd new adventures right in your own city.

fornia. For road trippers, there’s the serpentine,

Favorites, naturally, are personal, and that’s half the

cliﬀ-hugging Highway 1 along the Big Sur Coast, the

fun. What you set out to discover might turn out to be

Avenue of the Giants in the land of the redwoods, or the

something you never expected, and you may return home

lightly traveled Highway 395 that skirts the Sierra’s eastern

with a new appreciation of art, wine, ﬁne dining, an

edge through the high desert.

activity such as cycling or surﬁng or rock climbing, or just

For beachgoers, it’s easy to fall in love with the sands of San Diego, Orange and LA counties, or any one of seem-

the exquisite pleasure of spending time in a transcendent natural environment.

ingly dozens of beach towns all up the Central Coast. And

In these pages we help you prepare, with proﬁles of

the cooler climes of the North Coast oﬀer beaches and

each of the state’s 12 tourism regions, essays on history,

coastal areas every bit as magical, sometimes more so

cuisine, museums, theme parks and many other topics,

with fewer people joining you on your explorations.

plus resource pages with information on visitors bureaus,

If you love the outdoors, you’ll never forget Lake Tahoe,

driving distances, California Welcome Centers and more.

Mammoth Lakes, Yosemite and Sequoia and Joshua Tree

As you make your plans for a trip to the Golden State,

and Lassen Volcanic national parks. The Mojave Desert

it’ll be fun to wonder which places will become your

and Death Valley will seep into your soul.

favorite spots. One thing for sure, you’ll ﬁnd many,

Wine lovers can tantalize their palates just about anywhere. We all know about Napa and Sonoma valleys, but

because just about any direction you turn can lead to an experience you’ll never forget.

superb wine also comes out of Mendocino, Monterey, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, the Central Valley

12 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

—LARRY HABEGGER, Editor

ÉRNE Mc CABE

It doesn’t take much to ﬁnd favorite places in Cali-

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DISCOVER Dreams of the Golden State

BY DON GEORGE

California offers a world’s worth of experiences to savor THE SEDUCTIVE STATE OF CALIFORNIA

climbers, topping oﬀ at 14,505 feet. Among

PACIFIC OCEAN

is large in every sense of the word. It’s the

California’s most moving experiences are

The world’s largest ocean, the fabled

most populous state in the U.S. and the third

walking through the natural cathedral of

Paciﬁc, embraces California’s entire

largest in terms of geographical size. Its

Muir Woods and camping in the granite

western boundary. It’s a place to dream,

economy ranks ﬁfth in the entire world.

grandeur of Yosemite National Park.

to ponder life’s possibilities and endless

When it comes to visitor attractions, Cali-

For boaters, birders and ﬁshermen,

mysteries, and a place to play. Surfers ride

fornia presents travelers with as wide a range

there’s Lake Shasta, home to an abundance

the sea’s prodigious waves; sailors ply her

of riches as many countries. Whether you’re

of ﬁsh and fowl. For whitewater fans, more

waters; boogie boarders and body surfers

passionate about natural activities, cultural

than a dozen rivers, including the mighty

splash in her surf; kayakers explore her

pursuits or dining and wining, the Golden

American

coves and shore breaks; children of all

State has diverse delights to entice you.

thrilling rides. Kayakers and canoers ﬁnd

ages wade in her froth and comb her beaches. Life happens on the edge of the Paciﬁc, where the sun shines, and sets in ethereal colors.

and

Sacramento,

provide

paradise in Point Reyes National Seashore

Outdoor Adventurer

in the north and watery wonders at Morro

If you’re a nature lover and active adventurer,

Bay on the central coast.

you’ll be dazzled by the state’s spectacular

In the southern part of the state, visitors

spectrum. On the western edge there’s the

savor the sere splendors of the Mojave

Paciﬁc Ocean, the largest body of water in the

Desert and Death Valley, the lowest point in

world, perfect for surﬁng, sailing and swim-

North America, 282 feet below sea level. If

ming. In the east there are the magniﬁcent

tide pooling tempts you, Shaw’s Cove tide

mountains of the Sierra Nevada, a haven for

pools in the Laguna Beach State Marine

skiers and snowboarders in winter and

Reserve and the Terranea tide pools in the

hikers and bicyclists in summer. This region

Point Vicente State Marine Conservation

is home to Mount Whitney, the tallest

Area in Rancho Palos Verdes showcase sea

mountain in the “Lower 48” and a mecca for

anemones, crabs, urchins, sea slugs, sea stars and more. The ﬁve islands of Channel Islands National Park, accessible only by boat or plane from Ventura and Oxnard, provide a peaceful, pristine home for more than 2,000 plant and animal species, including 145 found nowhere else on the planet.

Cultural Connoisseur If you love culture, you’ll ﬁnd a treasure trove of activities in the Golden State, from museum and art gallery exhibitions to shops showcasing contemporary handicrafts and timeworn antiques, and from to displays at aquariums and hands-on education centers. For music, the world-class concert halls of Los Angeles and San Francisco are wellknown, but equally appealing are smaller sites such as the Redlands Bowl in the

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SEAN LEMA / SHUTTERSTOCK

performances of theater, dance and music

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Inland Empire city of Redlands, where an

sewing. Other outstanding educational

revolution spearheaded by Berkeley’s

elegant amphitheater spotlights California’s

institutions that focus on interactive

Alice Waters—whose Chez Panisse is still

oldest free concert series, presenting every-

experiences include the Monterey Bay

serving extraordinary food 48 years after

thing from classical music to bluegrass

Aquarium, the California Academy of

it opened. That revolution has spawned

bands each summer, or the Joan and Sanford

Sciences and the Exploratorium.

numerous other channels of creative culi-

I. Weill Hall on the California State Univer-

nary freshness and fusion, blending

sity Sonoma campus, where warm-weather

Food Aﬁcionado

Asian, European and Latin American

concert-goers can spread a blanket on the

For food aﬁcionados, California is a won-

ingredients and traditions, which are

terraced lawn for an alfresco music fest.

derland of tastes, textures and innovative

showcased throughout the state. As

A lively variety of performances, including

culinary creations. One of the most

Alice Waters and her followers focused

ballet, theater, variety shows, comedy and

delightful and enlightening experiences is

attention on local purveyors, food-related

even onstage conversations, are presented at

visiting a farmers market, where fresh-

opportunities for travelers expanded. One

Oakland’s ornately Art Deco Paramount

from-the-farm produce will be on delicious

result today is the California Cheese Trail,

Theater. Another multi-faceted venue lov-

display and fresh-from-the-ﬁeld farmers

an interactive website and printable map

ingly restored to its former glory is Fresno’s

will be happy to oﬀer samples and stories.

(cheesetrail.org) that features artisanal

Warnors Center for the Performing Arts,

Farmers markets can now be found

cheese makers throughout the state.

listed on the National Register of Historic

throughout the state. As a further outgrowth

Wine trails have long drawn travelers to

Places and distinguished by a pipe organ that

of the popularity of these markets, more

California, but these have expanded as well

replicates the sound of a full orchestra.

and more farms are now oﬀering visitors

in recent years. In addition to world-

From the Siskiyou County Museum in

the opportunity to pay to pick their own

renowned regions such as Napa and

Yreka to the San Diego Museum of Art,

strawberries, peaches or plums and savor

Sonoma, up-and-coming areas that oﬀer

museums and galleries celebrating history,

the sweetness of just-plucked fruit. Some

their own winery routes include Liver-

human endeavor and artistic heritage

farms even oﬀer travelers the chance to stay

more, Paso Robles, Ventura, Madera and

abound throughout the state. Creative

and work, which reveals from the inside the

Temecula.

exploring will yield access to small-scale

rites and rhythms of modern farm life.

museums that specialize in everything

California is the birthplace of Cali-

from comics and cable cars to surﬁng and

fornia Cuisine, of course, a culinary

Whatever interest has drawn you to California, you’ll find almost infinite reasons to be seduced and stay.

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HISTORY

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

A Place for Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

CALIFORNIA LIGHTHOUSES When migration to California began in

The Spanish Franciscan friar blessing an

California is the “America” of America. This

earnest in the 19th century, lighthouses

adobe church at Mission Basilica San Diego

was so even in pre-history, when the ﬁrst

de Alcalá in 1769; the Chilean miner trying

migrants from Asia crossed the land bridge

his luck panning for gold in a cold Sierra

between Siberia and Alaska, hung a right,

cataract in 1849; the Chinese laborer

walked southward, found pastures of plenty,

crossing the heaving Paciﬁc to work on the

rich marine life and heart-stoppingly beau-

diﬃcult one, especially in bad weather

transcontinental railroad in 1869; the

tiful mountains and either decided to keep

when they were needed most. The Point

African American leaving the South to build

walking or stop right where they were.

Reyes Lighthouse, above, was built in

warships on the Oakland waterfront in

The place wasn’t called California then,

1870 and served until 1975. Now it is

1942; the Haight-Ashbury hippie with her

of course. That came later, the name taken

managed by the National Park Service

wakeful dreaming in San Francisco’s

from a 16th-century Spanish novel and used

and is open for tours as one of

Summer of Love in 1967; the Indian engi-

by explorers, soldiers and missionaries,

neer launching a high-tech startup in Palo

who were themselves starting over in the

Alto in 2019, all have something in

New World. The Spanish built 21 Roman

common: starting over.

Catholic missions, from San Diego in the

became necessities to protect ships skirting the rough rocky coast. Many of the lighthouses were remote and hard to reach on land, and the job of keeping the lights burning was a challenging and

California’s, and the nation’s, historic lighthouses.

16 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

The United States is said to be a place

south to Sonoma in the north, from 1769 to

where the world comes to begin again—to

1823. In converting native communities to

reinvent itself, in the current coinage. If so,

Christianity, the newcomers overwhelmed

ALISA_CH/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MONO COUNTY TOURISM; CREATIVITY LOVER/SHUTTERSTOCK; VISIT CARMEL

California has always sparked innovation and new beginnings

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POP CULTURE ICONS

California has long been embedded in the popular culture of the USA and, indeed, much of the world. Among the pop culture favorites created in California are the Frisbee, the Barbie Doll, skateboards, fortune cookies and denim jeans.

native cultures. Of necessity, the Native Americans started over in a bewildering new world. In 1821, Mexico, with its remote northernmost province, Alta California, wrenched itself free of the Spanish Empire. In 1833, the missions were secularized by the Mexican government and abandoned. Their buildings moldered, their pioneering vineyards and olive groves were eventually overgrown and forgotten. Not until the 20th century were the missions restored and revived. Many ﬂourish today as redoubts of history and contemporary worship, handsome, evocative reminders of the ﬁrst major European presence.

The Gold Rush

POINT REYES LIGHTHOUSE, opposite; Bodie Ghost Town residence, above; Cabrillo National Monument at Point Loma Peninsula, San Diego, right; Carmel Mission, below.

Alta California grew slowly in its isolation. That changed on January 24, 1848, with the discovery of gold on the American River. The California Gold Rush, beginning in earnest in 1849, gave fortune-seekers a second—some said a last—chance to make good. Half-a-million newcomers—many from Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa— globalized California in a hurry. The Mexican descendants of Spanish settlers—the Californios, with their sprawling ranchos and lives attuned to the slow turning of the seasons—were swept aside, left to start over. Many 49ers stayed on and found another kind of gold: richly productive new lives in a place where beginning afresh—personally, ﬁnancially, even spiritually—was already a common rite of passage. In 1850, pried loose by the U.S. victory in the Mexican War and accelerated by the Gold Rush, California became the 31st state of the United States. New Californians brought the new Golden State into being, plowing its ﬁelds, founding its great universities, building its cities. California’s lustrous reputation was tarnished on the morning of April 18, 1906, when a massive

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 17

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HISTORY

WE LOVE SPORTS earthquake rocked Northern California and

California’s story since World War II has

leveled much of San Francisco; what the

featured growth and more growth. Com-

who love the outdoors and

rolling, rumbling ground didn’t knock down,

bined with in-country migration, global

participating in sports. They

the ensuing ﬁrestorm burned down. Some

immigration made California the most pop-

also really like watching sports.

3,000 people died. Now, it was San Francisco’s

ulous state in the Union in 1962.

The Golden State hosts 16

turn to start over. San Francisco dramatized

professional sports franchises

its recovery, and celebrated the new Panama

A Center for Change

in four major team sports,

Canal linking the Atlantic and the Paciﬁc,

From the 1960s on, California has been, in

football, basketball, baseball

with the splendidly showy Panama-Paciﬁc

a positive sense, the most disruptive state

and hockey, by far the most of

International Exposition of 1915.

in the nation. Student political activism,

Californians are sporty types

any American state. Runner-up Florida has nine major pro teams and third-place Texas has eight.

the hip counter-culture and early awaken-

The Rise of Hollywood

ings of the New Age movement found

Just two years after that optimistic display,

fertile ground in California. The in-season,

the nation plunged into World War I. After

sustainable, slow-food movement arguably

the war ended in 1918, still more migrants

took root fastest in California. American

rushed to California. In 1920, Los Angeles

environmentalism in large part began in

(and much later San Diego and San Jose)

California, when Scottish immigrant John

surged past San Francisco in population.

Muir founded the Sierra Club in San Fran-

The orange groves and dusty byways of old

cisco back in 1892 and took President

Los Angeles began morphing into “LA”—

Theodore Roosevelt camping amid the nat-

more speciﬁcally, and more mythically,

ural wonders of Yosemite Valley in 1903.

“Hollywood.”

From the 1980s on, Silicon Valley has

Actors, writers, directors and producers

joined Hollywood as a creative lodestar for

streamed to Los Angeles, growing a quiet

the whole planet. In the present decade, Sil-

cottage industry of silent motion pictures

icon Valley reached northward, dramatically

into a technologically advanced business.

transforming the economy and even the

Stars were born in a place that came to be

culture of San Francisco. The high-tech-

called “the dream factory.” Not a few of the

nology world has enshrined risk-taking,

A DIFFERENT VIEW of the famous

Dust Bowl migrants who left the drought-

innovation, learning from failure and—you

Hollywood sign, top; goalie Jonathan

stricken Midwest for California in the 1930s

guessed it—starting over. Quoting another

Quick’s LA Kings jersey, above.

got their ﬁrst impressions of their new

California innovation, the 1960s Whole

home from the dream-weavers of Holly-

Earth Catalog, Apple’s Steve Jobs urged

wood. In the 1940s, creative people from

Stanford University graduates in a com-

Europe such as Billy Wilder and Thomas

mencement speech in 2005 to “stay hungry,

Mann, ﬂeeing fascism and war to begin

stay foolish.”

anew, lent the movies an Old World artistic sensibility.

18 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Californians, across centuries and cultures, always have.

SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK; NHL

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CITIES

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Surprising Cities

California’s golden cities—Los Angeles,

deeply delicious, locally owned restaurants.

San Francisco, San Diego—are celebrated

Settled in the mid-19th century by westward-

around the world, and rightly so. But the

ho New Englanders, Portuguese ﬁshers and

MENDOCINO

Golden State boasts an engaging range of

Chinese immigrants, Mendocino boomed as

The combination of Victorian and New England-style wood frame homes and the setting on the bluﬀs at the mouth of the Big River is what put the town of Mendocino, above, on the National Register of Historic Places. Stroll its lanes and breathe the sea air and you won’t want to leave.

things to see and do in less-well-known

a lumber town. It revived with mid-20th cen-

locales, as well. In cities ranging in size

tury

from 900 inhabitants to nearly 65,000, a

travelers. Most of the town of Victorian cot-

surprising, eclectic menu of food and

tages and restored wood-frame houses is

drink, art and architecture, history and

listed on the National Register of Historic

sports is available to visitors.

Places. The village is situated on the bluﬀs of

20 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

back-to-the-landers

and

visiting

the Mendocino Headlands with splendid

MENDOCINO: Victorian Wonderland

views of the Paciﬁc Ocean and a network of

Claiming pride of place in hopelessly beau-

public trails. The Mendocino Music Festival

tiful Mendocino County, the town of

is held in July, while the Mendocino Mush-

Mendocino is one of the best-loved destina-

room, Wine and Beer Festival takes place in

tions on California’s North Coast. The village

November. A pleasant drive north on Cali-

of 900 people 130 miles north of San Fran-

fornia Route 1 takes visitors to the teeming

cisco is stocked with historic B&Bs, heritage

tide pools, hiking and camping of Russian

hotels, clothing shops, art galleries and

Gulch State Park.

MENDOCHINO CVB. OPPOSITE: NEVADA CITY CHAMBER PHOTOS; SANTA CRUZ CVB; MARINA DEL REY CVB

Big fun in smaller towns

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HISTORIC DOWNTOWN NEVADA CITY, left; entrance to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk, below; Marina del Rey, bottom.

TAHOE CITY: Recreational Capital

annual Oktoberfest features excellent beers

scenic hillside views, ski the nearby moun-

At an elevation of 6,250 feet, Tahoe City, on

such as Lagunitas and the aptly named

tains, and head to High Country attractions

the northwest shore of Lake Tahoe, Cali-

Sierra Nevada. The Tahoe Art Haus and

such as nearby Lake Tahoe. The Gold Rush

fornia and Nevada’s lovely freshwater

Cinema has nine beers on tap, leather

is memorialized at the Miners Foundry Cul-

alpine lake, is all about the water and sur-

rocking seats, movies, music and dance.

tural Center and by historical mining exhibits in City Hall. Eye-pleasing and

rounding mountains. The Placer County community is a jumping-oﬀ point for

NEVADA CITY: Gold Rush Pedigree

walkable, much of downtown Nevada City

skiing and snowboarding in winter and

In 2010, this postcard-pretty inland com-

is listed on the National Register of Historic

boating, swimming and ﬁshing in summer.

munity in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada

Places. The Nevada Theatre, a smartly

Calling itself a city is a whimsical touch, as

counted 3,068 residents—1,000 fewer than

restored heritage building, hosts a variety

the unincorporated town has just 2,000

it had in 1880 in the afterglow of the 1849

of live entertainment.

residents. Situated near the headwaters of

California Gold Rush. These days, travelers

the Truckee River, Tahoe City oﬀers popular

journey to Nevada City’s woodsy setting on

SANTA CRUZ: Beach, Boardwalk & More

recreational outﬁtters, hotels and retail, as

the western slopes to admire impeccably

This classic beach town is located 75 miles

well as craft beers and hearty food. The

restored 19th-century buildings, take in

south of San Francisco on the northern

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CITIES SHOPPING UNDER THE FALL COLORS in Big Bear Lake, right; the Cal Poly campus and San Luis Obispo from above, bottom; West Hollywood at night, opposite.

shore of magniﬁcent Monterey Bay. A city of 65,000, it boasts alternative lifestyles and innovative education at the University of California Santa Cruz along with the proudly retro 1907 Santa Cruz Boardwalk and the Santa Cruz Pier. The boardwalk, ﬂanking mile-long Santa Cruz Beach, showcases the charming 1911 Loolf Carousel and adrenaline joys of the Big Dipper, a 1924 wooden roller coaster. The boardwalk is a prime place to score corn dogs (“made from a secret family recipe’’), chocolate-covered bacon, deep-fried Twinkies and other bellyhistoric core of the city clusters around the

curl. The world’s ﬁrst Surﬁng Museum is

SAN LUIS OBISPO: Culture, Wine, & the Outdoors

right nearby. Inland, the shops of Paciﬁc

Nestled between the Paciﬁc Ocean 11 miles

This is the place to ﬁnd restaurants, cafés

Avenue oﬀer plenty of retail therapy and

to the west and the Santa Lucia Mountains

and shops. Music and theater productions

health-minded markets and eateries. North

just to the east, this central coast city of

are mounted on the campus of California

of town via Highway 17 in the Santa Cruz

47,000 is located midway between San

Polytechnic Institute (“Cal Poly’’). Out-

Mountains is Henry Cowell State Park, with

Francisco and Los Angeles. Easily accessible

doorsy visitors and locals alike hike and

its old-growth forest of California’s soaring

by train on Amtrak or via U.S. Highway 101

bike the Nine Sisters hills. The marine-

signature trees: redwoods.

and famously scenic California Route 1, the

minded head to the sometimes-chilly,

busters while you watch surfers shoot the

1759 Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa.

foggy coast with their wetsuits for surﬁng, kayaking and windsurﬁng. South of the city is prime territory for winery touring and tasting: the expansive Edna Valley wine-

MARINA DEL REY: Art, Sea, Open-Air Dining This unincorporated coastal community of 9,000 located south of Venice and just four miles north of Los Angeles International Airport is dedicated to the life aquatic. Created in 1965 out of salty wetlands frequented mainly by duck hunters, Marina del Rey today has the largest manmade small-craft harbor in North America with some 5,000 boat slips. Yacht charters, kayaking, standup paddling, dining cruises, ﬁshing trips

22 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

SAM RICE/BIG BEAR LAKE; LARRY HABEGGER. OPPOSITE: VISIT WEST HOLLIWOOD

producing region.

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and harbor tours are among the prime st

them the Troubadour, Viper Room and

fest, held every fall, is a very popular celebra-

Whisky a Go Go. The city also boasts hip

tion complete with German music, hearty

hotels such as the Mondrian, Andaz and the

German food and, of course, excellent

Sunset Marquis. Classic retro Art Deco and

imported German beer. Fourth of July ﬁre-

Spanish Revival apartment buildings dot

works over manmade Big Bear Lake are very

swaths of the city, while western Melrose

popular in summer. In winter, ski resorts

Avenue is abuzz with restaurants, shops,

such as Big Bear Mountain Resort (a.k.a.

antique and furniture stores and the nearby

“Bear’’) and Snow Summit oﬀer skiing and boarding on the snowy slopes.

attractions of 21 -century Marina del Rey.

Paciﬁc Design Center. The Halloween Car-

Landlubbers like the place, too, for its ocean

nival is a huge and popular party. An inﬂux

views, year-round outdoor restaurant

of Russian Jews late last century from the

dining (thanks to the benign climate) and

disintegrating Soviet Union adds to West

Marina del Rey’s raft of special events. Chief

Hollywood’s cosmopolitan character.

YOUR » FIND CITY FUN

among the latter is the annual ARTsea fesfood, scheduled for May 18-19. Also popular

BIG BEAR LAKE: Year-Round Adventure

with locals and visitors alike is Beach Eats,

The Great Outdoors is the featured attrac-

held May through September on Thursday

tion at Big Bear Lake, a prime mountain

nights, with its eclectic food truck eats; in

vacation spot in Southern California that

2018, Beach Eats added live bands.

basks in 300 days of sunshine a year. Seven-

tival, with its array of art, dance, music and

mile-long Big Bear Lake is the liquid heart

WEST HOLLYWOOD: Design, Entertainment & LGBTQ Capital

of the area, while the communities of Big

With a population of 37,000, West Holly-

(pop. 12,500) are year-round jumping-oﬀ

wood provides style and spark to Greater

points for the boating, ﬁshing, biking,

Los Angeles well out of proportion to its

hiking, skiing, nature walks and horseback

size. Vibrant “WeHo,’’ bounded on the east

riding available in surrounding Big Bear

by Hollywood and the west by Beverly Hills,

Valley. The San Bernardino Mountains,

is Greater LA’s gay village, with about one-

with elevations of 6,700 feet to 10,000 feet,

third of residents identifying as lesbian, gay,

provide a rugged backdrop. This alpine

bisexual, transgender or queer (LGBTQ).

area, located 100 miles northeast of Los

Within its tightly packed 1.9 square miles is

Angeles and 150 miles northeast of San

western Sunset Boulevard, aka the Sunset

Diego, oﬀers four distinct seasons with

Strip, with its famous music venues, among

recreational activities to match. Oktober-

Bear Lake (pop. 5,200) and Big Bear City

Mendocino visitmendocino.com, 866-466-3636 Tahoe City visitahoecity.org, 530-583-3348 Nevada City nevadacitychamber.com, 800-655-6569 Santa Cruz cityofsantacruz.org, 831-420-5030 San Luis Obispo visitslo.com, 805-781-2777 Marina del Rey visitmarinadelrey.com, 424-526-7900 West Hollywood visitwesthollywood.com, 800-368-6020 Big Bear Lake bigbear.com, 800-424-4232

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SUMMER SPORTS

BY BILL FINK

The Outdoors Are Calling

CLIMBING CAPITAL Yosemite National Park’s El Capitan might be the world’s most famous granite face, but California has countless other sites that draw climbers from around the world, including Joshua Tree National Park, Pinnacles National Park and Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. For scenic views, it’s hard to beat Twin Crags in Tahoe City, with Lake Tahoe in the distance, above.

24 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

The California ideal of sun, surf and sand

the Strand. Drive the hills near San Francisco

has been popularized in decades of ﬁlm

on a sunny weekend afternoon, and in a

and TV shows, from Beach Blanket Bingo to

matter of minutes you’ll pass pelotons of

Baywatch. But visitors to California in the

road bikers, and hikers, horseback riders and

summer can discover even more of the

mountain bikers launching onto trailheads.

state’s natural beauty heading inland to

In the shadow of the Golden Gate Bridge,

majestic national parks.

ﬂeets of sailboats ride ocean breezes, while the wind powers kiteboarders and wind-

Sports

surfers into acrobatics as mellow joggers

Take a walk to the pier in Manhattan Beach

and their dogs enjoy the spectacle from

in Southern California on any given day and

shoreline pathways. North and south, young

you’ll see surfers whipping around the

and old, Californians love their sports, and

waves, volleyball players diving in the sand,

the state provides limitless opportunities to

and bikers and skateboarders rolling along

ply your favorite or try a new one.

PLACER COUNTY/ERIK BERGEN. OPPOSITE: VISIT SANTA CRUZ COUNTY; MORRO BAY CVB; LARRY HABEGGER

Mountains, lakes, rivers and seashores present a glorious summer playground

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SURFERS IN SANTA CRUZ, right; kayaking in Morro Bay, center; hikers take a break after climbing Half Dome in Yosemite, bottom.

On Land California has some of the world’s best golf, including the legendary seaside Pebble Beach Golf Links, home of Bill Murray’s favorite annual event, the AT&T National Pro-Am tournament. Or try any one of the hundreds of public and private clubs scattered across the state. If you aren’t into the clubs, grab a frisbee and try some disc golf at one of the more than 200 California courses. Mountain and road biking are great ways to get a workout while experiencing the state’s landscape, whether it be from tricky single-track downhill trails around Lake Tahoe, flatter cross-country trips or perhaps an urban ride using the San Francisco Bay Area’s Ford GoBike program. Skateboarding is practically the state sport, with skateparks seen everywhere from the sport’s birthplace at Venice Beach to the smallest inland town. For a different sort of ride, make like native son John Wayne and saddle up for some horseback riding on trails near cities, around dude ranches or on multi-day wilderness journeys. If desert sands don’t appeal to you, try those on the beaches of Southern California that are lined with volleyball nets for pickup games and professional tournaments. California sunshine is also good for year-round tennis, be it on public courts or at a posh resort. And the fitness-crazy culture of California provides plenty of opportunities to join outdoor workout “bootcamps” and yoga sessions in city parks.

In Water California has more than 840 miles of coastline along the Paciﬁc Ocean, a prime launching spot for every manner of water sport, including surﬁng, sailing, SCUBA and sea kayaking. California has fully embraced

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 25

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SUMMER SPORTS SKATEBOARDING AT MOUNT SHASTA Skatepark, below; ﬂy ﬁshing the Upper Owens River, Mammoth Lakes, right.

stand-up paddle boarding, with many rental

a wetsuit in the chilly Paciﬁc waters. Surf

tains Wilderness to relaxed, hour-long

shops bordering lakes and the ocean. Catalina

breaks range from 50-foot monster waves in

walking tours through the gentle winding

Island and the kelp forests of Monterey Bay

Half Moon Bay to more gentle rollers around

paths of Muir Woods, easily accessible from

are popular diving spots, but be sure to wear

Manhattan Beach. Marinas dot the coast from

nearby San Francisco.

Biking bikecal.com fordgobike.com labikepaths.com sfbike.org

A trip to the bubbling volcanic pools at

rent power yachts for deep-sea ﬁshing or sail-

Lassen Volcanic National Park or to the Dr.

boats to ride the winds.

Seuss-like trees of Joshua Tree can make

Moving inland, gentle streams and scat-

visitors feel they’re on another planet,

tered lakes provide fertile sport-ﬁshing

while sunset in Yosemite Valley with views

grounds, while melting mountain snow

of towering waterfalls can make it seem like

can create raging rapids for kayaking and

you’re in heaven.

rafting enthusiasts, but those looking for a

California’s many mountains mean

gentle river ﬂoat on an inner tube with a

climbing is a popular activity, whether it’s a

beer cooler can still ﬁnd their spots.

hike up 14,505-foot Mount Whitney (the

Boating dbw.ca.gov

Boating is popular with waterskiers and

highest point in the continental U.S.) or tech-

wakeboarders across the Sacramento Delta

nical rock climbing routes from the easy to the

Climbing mountainproject.com/area/105708959/ california rockclimbing.org

and at a huge number of marinas on lakes

extreme in legendary areas such as Yosemite,

and reservoirs throughout the state.

Joshua Tree and Pinnacles national parks. California’s state ﬂag features a bear, and

The Great Outdoors

you may see some among the wildlife

Golf pga.com/golf-courses/details/CA

California boasts 32 national parks,

during your outdoor journeys. Black bears,

seashores and monuments, 280 state parks

mountain lions, rattlesnakes and coyotes

Disc Golf pdga.com

and a plethora of wilderness areas, nature

put the “wild” in California wildlife, but

preserves and other outdoor playgrounds.

careful visitors should have no problem

Horseback Riding horseandtravel.com/states/ california.html

With landscapes ranging from the sheer

with them. Abundant migratory and native

cliﬀs of Yosemite to the searing deserts of

birdlife makes California a prime birding

Death Valley and the scenic shorelines of

destination, while at sea, whale watching is

SCUBA

the Channel Islands, California oﬀers a life-

a perennial tourist favorite. Even without

Californiadiver.com

time of outdoor opportunities for the

an organized tour, visitors can walk to view

Surfing surfingcalifornia.com

visitor. Exploration options range from

sea lions on San Francisco and Santa Cruz

multi-day backpacking trips for the hardy

piers, and observe sea otters playing in the

in remote areas such as the Marble Moun-

surf at Monterey.

26 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

SHASTA COUNTY CVB; JOSH WRAY/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM

» FIND YOUR FUN

north to south, where experienced sailors can

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WINTER SPORTS Winter Wonderland

BY BILL FINK

A sports paradise in any season

Snow play isn’t usually foremost in people’s minds when they think of California, but the state has some of the best skiing in the West. Mammoth Mountain is a magnet for skiers from Southern California, and the area around Lake Tahoe oﬀers more options than anywhere in North America. A lone skier enjoys a groomed slope at Lake Tahoe, above.

Southern California has long been

Angeles. But for those seeking winter

known as a warm-weather winter vacation

sports, there may be no better place on

area, with sports and outdoor activities

earth than the mountains surrounding

centered in San Diego and Los Angeles and

Lake Tahoe. The area hosted the 1960

desert retreats like Palm Springs. But the

Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley and con-

mountains of Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Lakes

tinues to be home base for many U.S.

and Yosemite and across the Sierra Nevada

Winter Olympians who bang moguls, rip

range beckon winter visitors who want to

the half-pipes and race on downhill runs at

embrace snow-based sports and recreation.

more than a dozen area ski resorts. For the non-extreme, plenty of beginner trails,

28 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Sports

group lessons and smaller hills oﬀer a safe

In winter, Southern California is still an

introduction to the sport.

oasis for outdoor sports and adventure,

Tahoe ski resorts including Squaw Valley,

from golf to tennis, hiking and horseback

Northstar and Heavenly also oﬀer ice

riding, whether in the still-baking desert

skating rinks and inner tube runs for those

around Palm Springs or the perpetually

looking for more mellow activities, best

pleasant vacationland of San Diego or Los

complemented with a ﬁre pit and toasted

CSNAFZGER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KRISTAL LEONARD; DAVID LITMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

SKIING CALIFORNIA

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BASKING IN THE WINTER SUN and the view of Half Dome at Glacier Point, Yosemite National Park, right; Squaw Valley Ski Resort and Lake Tahoe, bottom.

marshmallows and hot cocoa for dessert.

snowmobiling provides high-octane motor

springs around Mammoth Lakes provide

Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing

sport fun, while dogsledding is a way to

toasty outdoor relaxation with a view of

courses dot the Tahoe area, oﬀering a brisk

enjoy a diﬀerent sort of ride with some furry

snowcapped mountains. Or, perhaps bundle

aerobic workout amidst pine forests and

friends. For the adventurous, remote back-

up and climb a mountain for prime star-

sweeping mountain scenery.

country skiing, the increasingly popular

gazing opportunities in the crisp and clear

South of Tahoe, Mammoth Mountain

“sidecountry” Alpine Touring connected to

mountain air, then add a few more layers and

boasts a world-class ski resort, while Big

the ski resorts, ice climbing and hut-to-hut

try some ice ﬁshing on a high alpine lake.

Bear Mountain oﬀers skiing within a rea-

hiking in the Sierra Nevada mountains can

sonable commute from Los Angeles,

feed one’s winter hunger for adrenaline.

spot many animals migrating south to follow the sun. From massive gray whales

enabling the highly motivated to surf and ski in a single day. Outside of the ski resorts,

Winter also is the time when visitors can

The Great Outdoors

to miniature monarch butterﬂies, ﬂocks of

Step away from organized resort sports and

birds in the central wetlands and pods of

there’s still a wealth of winter outdoor

seals come to mate on the shores of the

activities in California. The bears may be

Paciﬁc, the world’s wildlife also seems to

hibernating but that doesn’t mean you have

think that California’s outdoors is a great

to as well. Avoiding the hot summer

place to visit in winter.

months means visitors can enjoy temperate winter hiking and camping opportunities in desert parks such as Death Valley, Joshua Tree and around Palm Springs (but be forewarned that the nights can still get frigid).

YOUR » FIND SPORT

Prior to snowfall, the Sierra Nevada mountain forests are ablaze with colorful fall foliage, making a hike through the hills a prime “shoulder season” activity. Wintertime provides an escape from the summer crowds often found in Yosemite National Park. Visit the near-empty wilderness to enjoy a quiet blanket of snow covering towering cliffs, the sun glistening off frozen waterfalls and the muffled clomping sound of guided snowshoe tours— and then retire to one of their lodges for

Skiing onthesnow.com/california/skireport.html xcskiresorts.com/western-us/ Hiking/Camping travelyosemite.com nps.gov/state/ca www.parks.ca.gov Wildlife whalewatching.com/california audubon.org/news/birding-california wildlife.ca.gov

special winter food and wine events. Hot

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 29

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THEME PARKS

BY MATT VILLANO

The Fun Starts Here

AMUSEMENT PARKS Europeans started the concept of amusement parks centuries ago with fairs and pleasure gardens created for people’s recreation. The world’s oldest amusement park is Bakken, just north of Copenhagen, Denmark, which opened in 1583. The oldest theme park in the United States is Holiday World & Splashin’ Safari (called Santa Claus Land from its opening in 1946 until 1984) in Santa Claus, Indiana. California’s theme parks date from 1950.

30 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Diversions are as plentiful as sunshine

lot; this tram remains the best way to expe-

in California. One of the most popular out-

rience stunt demonstrations and staged

lets: original theme parks. These attractions

events (such as an encounter with the shark

are meccas to amusement, each focusing

from Jaws).

rides and exhibits around diﬀerent concepts

In 2016 the park opened its most antici-

such as fairies, ﬁlm, plastic blocks, sea life

pated attraction ever: The Wizarding World

and an inimitable mouse. Most of the parks

of Harry Potter, complete with a replica of

are situated in the southern part of the state

Hogwarts castle and a recreation of the

(where the weather is generally warmer), but

shops of Hogsmeade. This new section is

the granddaddy of them all is up north. Each

home to two new rides: Harry Potter and

of the parks is worth a closer look.

the Forbidden Journey, and Flight of the Hippogriﬀ. It also aﬀords visitors the

Universal Studios Hollywood

opportunity to drink (non-alcoholic, but-

This ﬁlm-themed park got its formal start

terscotch-ﬂavored) Butterbeer in a rustic

in the 1960s when walk-throughs of Uni-

tavern named Three Broomsticks, and to

versal Studios soundstages and sets were

shop for wands and other trinkets and sou-

expanded to include peeks at actual pro-

venirs in Diagon Alley.

duction. Over the years, the studio added a

The rest of the park is divided into two

tram to shuttle visitors through the back

areas connected by escalator: the Upper

ANJELIKAGR/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: NATHANIEL CHADWICK/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD; CITYPASS; DISNEYLAND CALIFORNIA ADVENTURE

California’s theme parks appeal to kids of all ages

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 31

and Lower lots. Transformers: The Ride 3-D is a fan-favorite on the Lower Lot. On the Upper Lot, Despicable Me Minion Mayhem, a 3-D simulator ride, and Super Silly Fun Land, an outdoor family-friendly playground, both opened in April 2014. The oﬃcial studio tour commemorated its 50th anniversary in 2015 with the opening of a new grand ﬁnale dubbed Fast & Furious: Supercharged.

Overall, Disneyland is divided into

Wizarding World of Harry Potter,

these areas focus on actual history: Fron-

Universal Studios Hollywood, above;

Children’s Fairyland

tierland recreates the setting of the

Believe it or not, the ﬁrst theme park in the

American frontier, while Main Street

U.S. to cater to families with young kids was

U.S.A. is patterned after a small Mid-

Children’s Fairyland, a blink-and-you’ll-

western town (many believe Walt Disney

miss-it theme park on the shores of Lake

got his inspiration from his own boy-

Merritt in Oakland. The place opened in

hood town of Marceline, Missouri).

1950 (original admission started between 9

The park opened with one hotel, but

and 14 cents), making it the ﬁrst oﬃcial

since the 1990s it has grown exponentially,

theme park in California, as well. According

adding a new theme park (Disney’s Cali-

to some, it was one of Walt Disney’s inspi-

fornia Adventure), a shopping district

rations for the eponymous park he created

(Downtown Disney) and two additional

ﬁve years later.

hotels. One of the newest attractions,

Today, Fairyland includes small rides such as a mini Ferris wheel and carousels,

A FAMILY WITH BUTTERBEER at the

eight themed areas, or “lands.” Some of

Guardians

the

CityPASS cards, below; Cars Land at Disneyland California Adventure, bottom; entrance to the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, opposite.

Galaxy–Mission:

BREAKOUT!, was inspired by the Marvel

and life-sized sets depicting scenes from timeless storybooks (Pinocchio’s castle and the Humpty Dumpty wall are two favorites). The theme park also is home to the Storybook Puppet Theater, which opened in 1956. A number of the country’s most famous puppeteers got their start here, including a teenager by the name of Frances Oznowicz. You likely know him as Frank Oz.

Disneyland If the lovable (and life-sized) Mickey Mouse and friends don’t pique your interest and attention at California’s most famous theme park, surely the rides will. The park, which opened in 1955, features rides for all ages.

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 31

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 32

THEME PARKS MANTA COASTER at SeaWorld, right.

Comics movies and opened in May 2017. In the summer of 2019, the park will welcome Star Wars Land, an homage to the Star Wars franchise and its characters.

Other Bay Area Parks The San Francisco Bay Area is home to two other popular parks: California’s Great America (in Santa Clara) and Six Flags Discovery Kingdom (in Vallejo). Great America, next to Levi’s Stadium, is

including dolphins, sea lions, walruses,

the Bay, a Blue and Gold Fleet Bay Cruise, and

all about rides. Diversions range from

polar bears and beluga whales. In late 2016

a choice between the Exploratorium and the

scream-inducing (Flight Deck, a roller

SeaWorld reorganized its entertainment

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art—

coaster, has one 360-degree loop and a

program to focus more squarely on educa-

SFMOMA. The pass is valid for nine days.

zero-gravity roll) to family-friendly (the

tion. This means no more animal shows,

Buy your CityPASS at any of the above attrac-

Carousel Columbia is the world’s tallest

which has kept conservation groups happy.

tions or online at citypass.com. There’s also

double-decker carousel). In 2017 the park

In the nearby community of Carlsbad,

a San Francisco CityPASS C3 ticket for

added Patriot, a ﬂoorless roller coaster; and

Legoland is dedicated to tiny plastic bricks

shorter-stay visitors. This mobile ticket,

in 2015, the park expanded the Planet

(“Legos”), and boasts Lego replicas of famous

available exclusively through citypass.com,

Snoopy kids area and added three new

architectural icons (the Statue of Liberty and

allows visitors to choose any three attrac-

attractions, including two new racing rides.

the Taj Mahal among them). The park incor-

tions from a list of eight options.

The vibe at Discovery Kingdom is more

porates rides and eateries, and is home to the

eclectic. In addition to rides such as the

Model Shop, the headquarters for the park’s

Medusa roller coaster and SkyScreamer (a

10 master builders (a window allows guests

swing ride), the park also is home to a

to witness these professionals at work).

number of animals, including Jocko the

There also are two tremendous on-site water

walrus, who starred in the 2004 movie, 50

parks, and a new submarine ride that com-

First Dates, and Brandon the reticulated

bines LEGO creations and an aquarium.

Universal Studios Hollywood universalstudioshollywood.com

Giants slugger, Brandon Belt. In 2017, park

CityPASS

Children’s Fairyland fairyland.org

oﬃcials added Wonder Woman: Lasso of

Once you’ve decided where to go, CityPASS

Truth, a circular swing ride; in 2015, the park

can save you some money. For Southern

added the Dare Devil Chaos Coaster, a roller

California, CityPASS tickets help visitors

coaster that takes passengers upside-down

create and save on individualized ticket

in both forward and backward directions.

packages to attractions such as Disneyland, Disney California Adventure Park, Legoland,

San Diego Area Parks

SeaWorld, Universal Studios Hollywood,

San Diego and its surrounding suburbs also

San Diego Zoo and Safari Park. Prices and

comprise a great region for theme parks;

savings vary, depending on which parks you

two family favorites are SeaWorld and

choose and for how many days. The San

Legoland California.

Francisco CityPASS ticket includes a 3-Day

Out near Mission Bay, in San Diego

Cable Car and Muni Bus Passport and saves up

proper, SeaWorld is a sprawling homage to

to 40 percent oﬀ combined admission to the

dozens of diﬀerent species of marine life,

California Academy of Sciences, Aquarium of

32 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Disneyland disneyland.disney.go.com California’s Great America cagreatamerica.com Six Flags Discovery Kingdom sixﬂags.com/discoverykingdom Legoland California california.legoland.com SeaWorld seaworldparks.com/en/ seaworld-sandiego Knott’s Berry Farm knotts.com CityPASS citypass.com

SEAWORLD

giraﬀe, who was named after San Francisco

FIND YOUR FANTASY

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2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 34

SHOPPING BY LENORE GREINER

Paradise Found Everything from high fashion to outlet bargains in this statewide bazaar

With California’s cultural and agricultural riches, when you come here you can count on shopping sprees in one-of-a-kind, hole-in-the-wall shops to the grandest department stores and shopping districts. All of the top brands are here, from Neiman Marcus to Nordstrom to Bloomingdale’s, and famous districts from Orange County malls to Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills to San Francisco’s Union Square will give you plenty to explore.

34 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

The Golden State’s iconic malls ,

tique, arriving at a mall by boat or hunting

bohemian shops and posh boutiques can

bargains behind the walls of a recreated

astound even the most jaded sophisticate.

Mesopotamian palace. And super shopping

An enticing range of California’s eclectic

opportunities entice savvy shoppers in mil-

creativity awaits visitors throughout the

lions of square feet of retail space.

state, from theme park collectibles to homegrown surﬁng gear to ﬁne wine.

SoCal Glamour

Foodies can sample fresh-made cheeses in

Malls sprawl throughout Los Angeles,

artisanal food shops. Fashionistas will love

crowned by Rodeo Drive’s stratospheric

San Francisco’s luxurious haute couture

price tags. In the historic Jewelry District,

haunts. And art lovers can bring home an

one of the country’s largest, you’ll ﬁnd sig-

original California landscape from a red-

niﬁcant bargains in ﬁne jewelry at prices up

wood-scented artists’ enclave.

to 70 percent less than those in Beverly

California shopping safaris may entail

Hills. More than 1,500 jewelry showrooms

sighting a celebrity in a Los Angeles bou-

stand roughly on 5th and 8th streets to the

MICHAEL GORDON/SHUTTERSTOCK; OPPOSITE: TRAVEL COSTA MESA

CALIFORNIA SHOPPING

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:49 AM Page 35

north and south, and Broadway and Olive to

music emporium, stocking an overwhelming

Spectrum Center holds 150 stores, restau-

the east and west. Behind a facade of bas-

selection of vinyl, CDs, tapes, posters and col-

rants and a 21-screen cinema, anchored by

reliefs of Babylonian princes and heraldic

lectibles—at rock-bottom prices.

Nordstrom and Target.

griﬃns, the Citadel Outlets holds 700,000

In Santa Monica’s breezy, three-block

Fashion Island, with its casual resort set-

square feet of retail bargains inside a one-

pedestrian shopping mecca, Third Street

ting featuring splashing fountains and a koi

time 1929 tire plant modeled on an ancient

Promenade, ﬁnd the usual mall suspects,

pond, overlooks the Paciﬁc. Leading with

Assyrian palace. And between the Farmer’s

Anthropologie, Zara and Gap, as well as

Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s, this

Market and The Grove shopping center, the

celebrity-soaked cafés and eateries.

coastal center has more than 150 shops and

Grove Trolley provides shoppers free rides

Artsy shoppers should head to South

along First Street. Also check out LA’s Bev-

Grand Avenue to the museum shops of The

Beyond the malls, Laguna Beach’s stylish

erly Center, having just completed a $500

Broad and the Museum of Contemporary

art galleries line streets sloping to a pretty

million reimagination.

Art, Los Angeles. For bargains, drive north

beach. And, if heading to Palm Springs,

to Camarillo’s giant 160-store Camarillo

stop at Desert Hills Premium Outlets in

Premium Outlets.

Cabazon, and The Gardens on El Paseo and

The West Hollywood Design District features high-end fashion, interior design,

restaurants and a luxury cinema.

furniture, decorative arts and luxury brand

In Orange County, quintessential SoCal

stores on Melrose Avenue and Robertson and

shopping experiences await in huge open-

Southward in San Diego, begin your

Beverly boulevards. Sunset Boulevard’s world

air malls, complete with valet parking.

shopping trip with a delightful morning at

famous Amoeba Music is the nation’s largest

Inspired by Spain’s Alhambra, the Irvine

waterside Seaport Village. Then, hop on the

El Paseo Village in Palm Desert.

Coronado Island ferry and cruise to the Coronado Ferry Landing Shops for more sunny shopping. In the city center, the 16½-block Gaslamp Quarter features mall chains as well as hip shops and art galleries occupying restored Victorian buildings. San Diego’s own Rodeo Drive—Prospect Street in La Jolla—has art galleries, boutiques and sweeping Paciﬁc views. In coastal Carlsbad, north of San Diego, you’ll ﬁnd an elegant outlet mall, the Carlsbad Premium Outlets.

ADMIRING THE ART WALL at the LAB anti-mall in Costa Mesa, left; Rodeo Drive shopping district in Beverley Hills, opposite.

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 35

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SHOPPING

CHECKING THE PRODUCE at Los Angeles’ Original Farmers Market, below; Carmel Plaza shops, right.

Heading north? Check out the Outlets at Tejon along Interstate 5 between Los Angeles and Bakersﬁeld, just south of the Highway 99 interchange at the base of the Grapevine. The sprawling, 350,000-square-foot mall contains the usual, Nike and Polo Ralph Lauren, and some newcomers to the outlet scene,

an Amazon Pop-Up and the iconic British

authentic Japanese goods, tansu chests,

H&M and Pottery Barn, among the shady

perfume house Penhaligon’s.

bonsai and antique kimonos. Finally, Hayes

Don’t miss San Francisco’s great shopping neighborhoods. On Chinatown’s

Valley, a hipster haven, has trendy stores and nary a chain store in sight.

Northern California Elegance

Stockton Street you can pick up Asian

Two hours south, in Carmel-by-the-Sea’s

San Francisco’s massive malls and quirky

antiques, silk clothing bargains or rare tea.

storybook village, shops display ﬁne French

boutiques showcase the city’s European

Herbal pharmacies proﬀer Chinese medic-

linen and European antiques. Big Sur’s rugged

style. Join the Prada-clad parade encircling

inal remedies, ginseng, deer antlers or

coast inspires the art found in small art gal-

one of the world’s great “urban rooms,”

herbs costing $100 per pound.

leries. On Ocean Avenue, explore designer

downtown Union Square. Max out your plat-

Near Paciﬁc Heights, Sacramento Street

inum card in international boutiques,

houses fancy consignment shops, luxury

shops such as Bottega Veneta or Kate Spade in Carmel

jewelry stores and high-end department

goods retailers and haute couture children’s

cafés, artful bronze sculptures and abundant

stores. Today, Neiman Marcus stands where

boutiques. Hippie culture thrives on Haight

plants and ﬂowers. Carmel Plaza completed a

The City of Paris once stood, retaining the

Street with the northern outpost of Amoeba

major renovation in 2018.

opulent rotunda and ornate glass skylight.

Music and shops selling incense, used

North, the wine country has recovered

Stroll down nearby Maiden Lane, once lined

records and vintage San Francisco post-

from a disastrous 2017 wildﬁre and is fully

with Barbary Coast brothels, for more luxury.

cards, which make great gifts.

welcoming visitors. Discover artisanal food

Plaza

shopping

center amid

Nearby, the Westﬁeld San Francisco

North Beach and Jackson Square cafés

shops, olive oil producers and cheese

Centre is an architectural gem; under a

still sound with Italian speakers. Here, visit

makers on Sonoma’s main plaza. Napa

stunning 1908 dome stand restaurants and

the legendary City Lights bookstore, home

Valley wineries oﬀer ﬁne vintages, and

food emporiums, such as Japan’s Beard

of the City’s nascent Beat culture, and

foodies will love the seasonal abundance at

Papa Cream Puﬀs, and 142 stores, including

quirky antique stores. Japantown oﬀers

Petaluma’s organic Green String Farm and

36 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET; VISIT CARMEL

walkways and Mission Ranch architecture.

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 37

YOUR » FIND FASHION West Hollywood Design District westhollywooddesigndistrict.com

Outlets at Tejon tejonoutlets.com

Citadel Outlets citadeloutlets.com

Desert Hills Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/outlet/desert-hills

The Grove thegrovela.com

The Gardens on El Paseo and El Paseo Village thegardensonelpaseo.com

Beverly Center beverlycenter.com Santa Monica Third Street Promenade 3rdstreetpromenade.com Amoeba Music amoeba.com The Broad Museum thebroad.org Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles moca.org/visit

in local farmers markets. Or explore Saint Helena’s historic main street for culinary

San Diego Gaslamp Quarter gaslamp.org

tools and vintage luxuries. Three outlet malls—in Petaluma, Napa

Coronado Ferry Landing Shops coronadoferrylandingshops.com

and Vacaville—oﬀer brand names and

Westﬁeld San Francisco Centre westﬁeld.com/sanfrancisco Carmel-by-the-Sea carmelcalifornia.com Carmel Plaza carmelplaza.com Sonoma’s Main Plaza sonomavalley.com/sonoma.html Mendocino Shopping mendocino.com Napa Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/napa Green String Farm greenstringfarm.com Saint Helena’s Main Street sthelena.com

mall time.

Seaport Village seaportvillage.com

Farther Aﬁeld: North Coast, Yosemite & Theme Parks

Irvine Spectrum Center shopirvinespectrumcenter.com

Downtown Disney District disneyland.disney.go.com/destinations/ downtown-disney-district

California’s wild north coast inspires the

Fashion Island shopfashionisland.com

Yosemite Valley yosemite.com/things-to-do/shopping

Carlsbad Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/Carlsbad

Ansel Adams Gallery anseladams.com

handcrafted furniture and handicrafts, pottery or jewelry found in artsy Mendocino’s ocean view lanes. Bring home a memento of Yosemite Valley’s majesty and history. In the park,

Shopping in theme parks goes beyond

From sun-splashed malls to sophisti-

the Ansel Adams Gallery sells photo-

sunscreen or souvenirs. In San Diego Zoo

cated art galleries, even the most

graphic reproductions and collectible

Safari Park, The Bazaar stocks authentic

experienced shopaholic can score the per-

prints; the Yosemite Valley Lodge has a gift

African artifacts and unusual jewelry. In Dis-

fect gift or memento during a delirious

shop for souvenirs. Find authentic Native

neyland’s Downtown Disney District, you’ll

California shopping experience. And it’s all

American pottery in the shop at the

ﬁnd surf gear and Disney collectibles. Finally,

located on stage sets of ocean views, moun-

Majestic Yosemite Hotel, formerly the

the world’s largest Lego store stands just

tain majesty, innovative architecture and

Ahwahnee Hotel.

inside Carlsbad’s Legoland California Resort.

quiet redwood groves.

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 37

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TAUBMAN SHOPPING CENTERS Premier fashion, from luxury to fast BY

THE ICONIC BEVERLY CENTER, Los

The ﬁrst chapter in Anadol’s installation,

Angeles’ 36-year-old shopping landmark,

entitled “Impossible Materials: Fashion,”

recently underwent a signiﬁcant reimagi-

expresses his interpretation of fashion

nation that transformed the center, inside

through imagined fabric and subtle poetic

and out.

motion. Chapter Two, “Impossible Materials:

Architecture,”

focuses

the

exterior, a magniﬁcent skylight that brings

symbiotic relationship of art, architecture

into the center plenty of California sun-

and technology.

shine, a further-elevated retail lineup and plenty of appealing dining options.

On an ongoing basis, curator Jenelle Porter, in association with the Hammer Museum,

In partnership with Taubman, Italian

brings works from prominent LA artists to

architectural ﬁrm Studio Fuksas trans-

Beverly Center, such as Julian Hoeber, Karen

formed the center with a delicate,

Kimmel, Geoﬀ McFetridge, Dave Muller,

undulating white exterior comprised of

Catherine Opie and Amanda Ross-Ho.

metal mesh facade, and many other modern updates.

On the fashion front, Beverly Center’s perfectly curated retail lineup crosses every

Beverly Center’s new Grand Court fea-

price level and fashion proﬁle. The center’s

tures a 35-foot-tall digital LED screen that

luxury, contemporary and fast-fashion

showcases the ﬁrst permanent LA installa-

brands include Balenciaga, Burberry,

tion of famous media artist Reﬁk Anadol,

Coach, COS, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci,

as well as plenty of places to relax, plug-in

H&M, Halston Heritage, Jimmy Choo, L.K.

and connect with others. Here, you’ll ﬁnd

Bennett, Louis Vuitton, Maje, MCM,

special events or holiday shows.

Michael Kors, Omega, Politix, Prada, Saint

TAUBMAN

New features include a contemporary

38 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

LENORE GREINER

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 39

Laurent, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandro, Stuart Weitzman, Superdry, Tiffany & Co., TUMI, Uniqlo, Versace, XXI Forever and LA’s largest Zara. Coming in 2020, is The Webster, an 11,000-square-foot high-end designer flagship boutique. When it’s time to eat, Beverly Center’s lineup of full-service and fast-casual restaurants includes fine-dining options Cal

Mare,

Farmhouse

and

Yardbird

Southern Table & Bar, and fast-casual eateries Eggslut, Easy’s, Tocaya Organica, Marugame Udon, LAMILL Coffee and Pitchoun Bakery & Cafe. A new Concierge Desk in Grand Court ramps up customer service to ease the shopping experience for everyone. The center’s multi-lingual staff can help with everything from tourist programs and foreign currency exchange to directions, reservations and gift recommendations. Chinese travelers can find Beverly Center on WeChat to access a concierge function, with live, in-language Q&A capabilities.

Department stores include Nordstrom Rack, Macy’s, and JCPenney, along with

Other Taubman Shopping Centers

popular tenants Build-A-Bear, Disney Store,

If your travels take you to Palm Desert, visit

H&M and Uniqlo.

The Gardens on El Paseo and El Paseo Village.

Kids will love the family-friendly enter-

Anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue, The Gar-

tainment at Round1 Bowling & Amusement,

dens on El Paseo features contemporary

which oﬀers bowling, games, billiards,

tenants such as Anthropologie, BB•One,

darts, ping-pong, karaoke and more.

Johnny Was, Vince, Louis Vuitton, Sephora,

A 23,000-square-foot food court fea-

Tesla and Tiﬀany & Co. Dining destinations

tures

include

Restaurant,

dining options, with a bright, contempo-

Tommy Bahama’s Restaurant & Bar, Wilma

rary design and handy electronic charging

& Frieda and more.

stations. Additional dining options include

Paciﬁca

Seafood

BEVERLY CENTER, opposite; El Paseo Village, above.

California-inspired,

fast-casual

Adjacent to The Gardens, El Paseo Village

Andersen Bakery & Café, BJ’s Restaurant &

oﬀers the desert’s only Apple, Banana

Brewhouse, Lucille’s Smokehouse BBQ,

Republic, Between The Sheets, Janie & Jack,

Red Robin and others.

Kate Spade New York, Lucky Brand Jeans,

FIND YOUR TAUBMAN EXPERIENCE

Beverly Center beverlycenter.com

Trina Turk, TUMI and Mastro’s Steakhouse

Passport to Shopping Program

for dining.

At participating Taubman shopping cen-

The Gardens on El Paseo and El Paseo Village

When in Northern California, head to

ters, visitors can obtain a Passport to

the East Bay to shop at Contra Costa

Shopping. This program provides special

County’s Sunvalley Shopping Center. The

oﬀers and exclusive discounts from select

Sunvalley Shopping Center

largest shopping center in the region, it has

retailers and restaurants to anyone trav-

shopsunvalley.com

more than 160 retail stores and restaurants.

eling from at least 50 miles away.

thegardensonelpaseo.com

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 39

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THE OUTLETS AT TEJON Classic high-end shopping in California’s interior BY

LENORE GREINER

SURROUNDED BY THE SCENIC land-

curving retail promenades, attractive

Before shopping, download a printable

scape of historic Tejon Ranch, the Outlets at

canopies throughout completely shade

map or learn more about upcoming sales,

Tejon oﬀers residents, tourists and travelers

the center’s breezeways, complemented by

events, double-point days and discounts,

a massive array of shopping in 365,000

energy-eﬃcient fans.

including for students and seniors, on the

square feet. Located on 43 acres along Inter-

In the Hacienda Food Court and

state 5 nearly midway between Santa Clarita

throughout the center, you can grab a pizza,

and Bakersﬁeld, the center is convenient to

burger, coﬀee and more in six eateries and

Los Angeles, Antelope Valley and the San

cafés; you’ll also ﬁnd convenient seating areas

Fernando Valley. And for those driving

for resting weary feet, as well as large, plentiful

between Southern and Northern California,

restrooms. Kids, from toddlers to eight-year-

it’s a great place to stop for a break.

olds, will love the play area found inside the

center’s website. Or just stop by Guest Services. A FULL MOON over the Outlets at Tejon, above.

DISCOVER THE OUTLETS AT TEJON

This mega-outlet center evokes the

food court. There, in a fun sitting area, they

look and feel of the high-end outdoor

can tackle two interactive wall puzzles or a

lifestyle shopping centers normally found

climbable tower structure that has a slide. Or

in California’s upscale coastal communi-

simply play on a butterﬂy, a bear cub or inside

ties. Shoppers can explore more than 60

a climbable canoe. Parents will love the con-

TejonOutlets.com

top designer and value brands from

venient power outlets for device charging.

Facebook.com/OutletsAtTejon

fashion to footwear, jewelry to home goods and more.

Pet Friendly

Famous Brands

prevails at the Outlets at Tejon, which

Amid shady landscaping and water fea-

includes two grassy park areas and tons

tures, stroll among famous brands such as

of pet-friendly stores. You’ll also find

Kate Spade, Michael Kors, Nike Factory

vending machines and ATMs throughout

Store, Coach Factory Store, H&M, Express,

the center.

Old Navy, Columbia Sportswear, Samsonite

Easy to locate, the Outlets at Tejon stands

and Pottery Barn. And plan to browse in

next to a 101-foot-tall sign directing north-

comfort, rain or shine. Among the open-air

bound and southbound shoppers along

courtyards with relaxing furniture and

Interstate 5.

40 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

TEJON OUTLETS

Additionally, a pet-friendly atmosphere

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CARMEL PLAZA

High fashion and a community gathering place BY LENORE GREINER

DISCOVER » CARMEL PLAZA CarmelPlaza.com Facebook.com/ ShopCarmelPlaza

EASY ACCESS AND DOG-FRIENDLY Carmel Plaza, above; ﬁre pits in the Courtyard provide a good place to greet friends, below.

IN THE HEART of Carmel-by-the-Sea,

nationally renowned The Cheese Shop or

Carmel Plaza oﬀers the village’s largest

enjoy breakfast or lunch at the Carmel

concentration of luxury and name brand

Coﬀee & Cocoa Bar. A French bistro, Patis-

retailers in one location. Thirty-ﬁve ﬁne

serie Boissiere, oﬀers lunch and dinner

stores and boutiques stand within Carmel

inside an inspired cottage. And a Zagat-

Plaza’s three levels, including Tiﬀany &

rated dinner house, The Flying Fish Grill,

Co., Bottega Veneta and Anthropologie.

features Asian-inﬂuenced fresh ﬁsh fare.

Specialty retailers include Cos Bar, a luxury

Most exciting, Carmel’s only restaurant and

cosmetics and skin care boutique, and

microbrewery, Yeast of Eden, purveys ter-

Janie and Jack for upscale children’s

roir-driven beers paired with a global, street

apparel. Or take home a piece of wearable

food-inspired menu.

Carmel art at Impressions, which displays

Take a (wine) break at the Hahn Family

handmade, natural stone jewelry. For

Wines Tasting Room for a sip of California’s

Bohemian travel clothing and home goods,

best, one of Carmel Plaza’s three wine-tasting

check out Roller Rabbit. And in this dog-

rooms. Or catch a cooking class at the state of

friendly shopping destination, where

the art cooking school in a newly expanded

shops often set out water bowls for pups,

Sur La Table opening in spring 2019.

stop at The Dog House for toys and custom-made doggie outﬁts. Or take in a

Great Customer Service

California moment during a Seaside Yoga

Since visitors come to Carmel Plaza from

Sanctuary yoga class.

the world over, many store employees

Courtyard Gathering Place

Chat (the Chinese payment system) and

A recent renovation has transformed

have phone apps for translating.

Carmel Plaza and its main feature, the

To learn about seasonal sales, promo-

Courtyard. There, locals and visitors alike

tions, new store openings and special

gather around several custom ﬁre pits on

events such as a summer concert series,

comfortable furnishings amid landscaping

check out the center’s Facebook page at

to relax between shopping and dining.

Facebook.com/ShopCarmelPlaza. Parking is

In the food-centric Carmel Plaza, you can sample ﬁne, rare cheeses in the inter-

42 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

convenient in the center’s parking garage at Mission Street and 7th Avenue.

CARMEL PLAZA

speak diﬀerent languages, subscribe to We

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2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 44

ROAD TRIPS

BY JOHN FLINN

Get Behind the Wheel and Go

HIGHWAY 1 Whether you drive ten miles or the full thousand, Highway 1 will

Californians didn’t invent the car, but

Up the Coast

they like to think, with some justiﬁcation,

Northern Californians call it “Highway 1”

your breath away, such as this one

that they invented the automobile lifestyle.

and Southern Californians call it the “Paciﬁc

at the Bixby Creek Bridge in Big

With drive-thru grocery stores, drive-thru

Coast Highway”—or, simply, the “PCH”—but

Sur, above.

pharmacies, drive-thru churches and even

there’s no doubt that the road that hugs the

drive-thru mortuaries, one gets the feeling

state’s remarkable coastline, often close

that if Californians could only invent a

enough to feel the salt spray, oﬀers one of

drive-thru delivery room they could hap-

the world’s classic driving trips.

provide twists and turns and views of the coast that will take

pily go from cradle to grave without ever having to pull over to the curb.

beaches to the misty redwood forests near

California is a land of supersized dis-

the Oregon border, the journey, which

tances, jumbo landscapes and big-gulp

includes a few stretches on other highways,

vistas, and the best way to see it all is on a

is a touch over 1,000 miles.

road trip, or, better yet, a series of road trips. Here are a few of our favorites.

44 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

From sun-splashed Southern California

The sights are so numerous we can barely scratch the surface: The Hotel Del

SUPERB STOCK IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ADONIS VILLANUEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK; JAY SINCLAIR; AGAGLIARDIIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

Explore the Golden State from the driver’s seat

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 45

A COLD MORNING AT CONVICT LAKE oﬀ Highway 395 at Mammoth Lakes, right; Butterﬂy Beach in Santa Barbara, below; fun on the beach at Hotel del Coronado, San Diego, bottom.

Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe frolicked

Cowboys & Indians

in Some Like It Hot; classic surf breaks made

East of the Sierra Nevada the green, popu-

famous by the Beach Boys; star-studded

lated West Coast ends and the brown,

Malibu; Riviera-like Santa Barbara; Hearst

sagebrush-covered West begins. This is the

Castle; Big Sur; Santa Cruz, with its old-

Old Frontier of our imagination, a realm of

timey beach boardwalk; San Francisco;

real cowboys and real Indians—and of cin-

Point Reyes National Seashore; artsy Men-

ematic cowboys and Indians.

docino; Redwood National Park.

Highway 395 hugs the state’s eastern

Good news for road-trippers: An enor-

border, and the 264-mile stretch of high

mous landslide that had been blocking the

desert from Reno to Lone Pine, which passes

road 16 miles north of Big Sur has been

tumbleweeds, swinging-door saloons and

cleared.

ghost towns beneath the breathtakingly

A few tips: Allow far more time than you think you need; besides the frequent diver-

sheer eastern wall of the Sierra Nevada, is one of California’s most iconic drives.

sions, the road is so winding in places it’s

The northern stretch traverses ranch-

hard to average more than 30 miles per

land that was once—and sometimes still

hour. If you’re prone to carsickness, this

is—the domain of Basque sheepherders,

isn’t the trip for you. Keep your gas tank full

and in the town of Gardnerville, just over

and your bladder empty. In some areas, it’s

the border in Nevada, you have your choice

more than 40 miles between gas stations—

of excellent Basque restaurants. As you

and restrooms.

drive south, keep an eye out for cowboys,

YOUR » PICK HIGHWAY CA-1 The Coast pacific-coast-highway-travel.com US-395 Eastern Sierra aaroads.com/California/us-395_ca

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 45

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:12 AM Page 46

ROAD TRIPS

the Lone Pine Film History Museum pays

wave-battered coast. West Marin County,

tribute to the hundreds of Hollywood West-

with its organic farms, artisanal bakeries

erns, starring everyone from Hopalong

and gourmet cheesemakers, is the bread-

Cassidy to John Wayne, ﬁlmed in the nearby

basket for San Francisco’s foodie culture.

Alabama Hills.

Stop for lunch at the Hog Island Oyster

A few tips: Springtime, when the Sierra

Farm, where you can munch on bivalve

is still clad in snow, is the prettiest time for

mollusks pulled straight from Tomales Bay.

the drive, although some side trips may be

The long, narrow bay, incidentally, is a sub-

limited. For an overnight stop, the town of

merged section of the notorious San

Bishop oﬀers the largest selection of motels

Andreas Fault. Farther north on Highway 1

and restaurants.

you’ll come to Bodega Bay, a sleepy ﬁshing village where Alfred Hitchcock unleashed

although these days they’re as likely to be

Day Trips

avian terror in The Birds. The Tides restau-

You don’t have to spend days or weeks on

rant, where terriﬁed townspeople took

the highway to see the best of California.

shelter, is still there, although hardly recog-

Within easy reach of major cities are exqui-

nizable in its current form. A few miles

site road trips you can do in less than a day.

inland, in the separate town of Bodega, you can ﬁnd the familiar schoolhouse and

riding an all-terrain vehicle as a horse. Farther south, as you approach Mono Lake,

San Francisco

church from the movie. Continue on to

you’ll probably encounter members of the

Head north, across the Golden Gate Bridge,

Sebastopol, renowned for its juicy Graven-

Washoe and Paiute tribes.

to sample some of Northern California’s

stein apples and an outpost of Sonoma

Highway 395 grazes the shore of enor-

most bucolic scenery. Fortunately, much of

County’s wine country. Turn south on

mous Mono Lake, which is so alkaline Mark

it was spared by the devastating Wine

Highway 101 and head back to San Fran-

Twain once joked he could do his laundry

Country ﬁres of October 2017. Almost

cisco, stopping for a celebratory cocktail in

merely by dragging it behind him in a boat.

within sight of San Francisco’s skyscrapers

Sausalito, with the lights of the city twin-

In Bishop, the studio of the late photogra-

you’ll come to Muir Woods National Mon-

kling across the bay.

pher Galen Rowell has become a major

ument, a cathedral-like preserve of

attraction. Stop at Manzanar, just oﬀ the

old-growth redwoods at the foot of Mount

Los Angeles

highway, for a poignant visit to the site of a

Tamalpais. Follow Highway 1 to Point Reyes

On a day trip along the Angeles Crest Scenic

relocation camp for Americans of Japanese

National Seashore, where you might catch

Byway you’re more likely to spot a bighorn

heritage during World War II. In Lone Pine,

tule elk grazing on misty hillsides above the

sheep than a Kardashian. As you wind up

46 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

TREKANDSHOOT/SHUTTERSTOCK; R SCAPINELLO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CITYPASS; DLHCA/SHUTTERSTOCK

THE GLENDALE HILLS near Los Angeles, right; Golden Gate Bridge, below; California Street cable car in San Francisco, opposite top; Pygmy Grove in AnzaBorrego Desert State Park, opposite bottom.

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:13 AM Page 47

and over narrow ridgetops in the San Gabriel Mountains, above the smog, your vistas range from the vast, chocolate-brown Mojave Desert to Catalina Island. Also known as State Highway 2, the 66-mile-long Angeles Crest Scenic Byway was built 100 years ago to be “the most scenic and picturesque mountain road in the state.” Access it from the suburb of La Canada Flintridge at the western end of the San Gabriel Valley. As you drive east on the narrow two-lane road, keep an eye out for bears, mountain lions and bighorn sheep. Another side trip brings you to the Mount Wilson Observatory, where astronomers found the first observational evidence for the Big Bang theory. If you’ve brought along your fishing rod, try your luck in Little Rock Creek near the Mt. Waterman Ski Resort. Farther east, the road crosses the 2,665-mile-long Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail: From here you can

daylong drive from San Diego. Make your

vanilla ice cream. The air here is so clean,

hike south to Mexico or north to Canada.

way north on I-15 and east to Ramona, and

and the views so extensive, that the Cali-

From the road’s end at Highway 138, head

then continue on to the ridgetop town of

fornia Institute of Technology built the

southeast to Interstate 15, which will whisk

Julian. A beautifully preserved relic of an

Palomar Observatory a few miles away. Con-

you back to the Los Angeles Basin.

1870s gold rush, Julian these days is

tinue east, downhill, on Highway 78 to

renowned for apples. You’ll smell the aroma

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, a 937-

San Diego

of baking pies the moment you step out of

square-mile preserve that encompasses the

Cross the Palomar Mountains to soak up the

your car. Stop for a slice, just out of the oven,

eastern ﬁfth of San Diego County. If it’s

vast and colorful Anza-Borrego desert on a

warm and gooey with a scoop of French

spring, and the winter has been wet, you’ll be treated to one of the most vivid and sweeping displays of wildﬂowers in the United States. If the ﬂowers aren’t up, there’s still plenty to see. A local landowner commissioned artist Ricardo Arroyo Breceda to produce more than 130 giant sculptures in the desert, everything from life-size replicas of gomphotheres (elephant-like creatures that once lived there) to prehistoric camels and ground sloths to scenes from California history: a Spanish padre, a gold miner and farmworkers. The undisputed highlight: an enormous sea serpent that undulates so far across the desert that it spans one of the main roads. From here you can retrace your route or take the long way home via the Salton Sea and Palm Springs.

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 47

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CUISINE

BY LAURA NESS

Dining Out A Golden State of haute cuisine

CALIFORNIA CUISINE California has set many trends over the

The results are in and it’s oﬃcial: the Bay

1849 and the oldest in California, along

Area of the Golden State has ﬁnally bested

with Sam’s Grill, est. 1867, still hold their

New York for the greatest number of

own against innovative newcomers. SF’s

Cuisine and the farm-to-table movement

Michelin three-starred restaurants, with

Mission district has become a foodie haven

that followed. In this wide-ranging

seven now, compared to ﬁve in New York

and

cuisine you can ﬁnd pretty much

City and two in Chicago. For those who have

Berkeley to Palo Alto to Napa and Sonoma

anything under the sun, including

made Star-bagging an oﬃcial bucket list

all bring ﬁne food to the table.

than cuisine that emphasizes using the freshest possible ingredients from local suppliers. This focus underlies California

extravagant garlic dishes cooked with big ﬁre at the Gilroy Garlic Festival, above.

thing, this makes California an even more compelling destination for haute cuisine.

communities

from

Like everything else in California from politics to entertainment, food is a

While LA has long been known for its

celebrity-driven business, to wit, SOMA

wide variety of exquisite and diverse

darling International Smoke, a collabora-

restaurants, San Francisco boasts more

tion between Michael Mina and Ayesha

restaurants per capita than any other U.S.

Curry (wife of NBA superstar Steph). But

city. It comes as no surprise that of the 166

star power inspires, and many have fol-

Michelin starred restaurants nationwide

lowed the lead of garden-to-table pioneer

for 2018, a full third of them are San Fran-

Alice Waters.

cisco establishments.

48 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

surrounding

As the birthplace of the farm-to-table

Old standards that have been around for

movement that took the country by storm,

decades, like Tadich Grill, established in

the culinary scene here is a mix of where to

VISIT GILROY. OPPOSITE: HAYK_SHALUNTS/SHUTTERSTOCK

decades, perhaps none more important

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:13 AM Page 49

BREAKFAST ON THE PATIO at LA’s historic Original Farmers Market, right.

be seen and those unseen farmers and ﬁeld

Mélisse, Osteria Mozza, Patina, Spago,

laborers who actually do all the dirty work

Sushi Zo, Valentino and Water Grill.

Seacoast Stars

necessary to put food on tables. Over one thousand farmers markets and CSA’s thrive

San Diego

Think Mendocino for romantic, sometimes

here, more than in any other state.

San Diego’s food scene is currently buzzing

hidden coastal dining stars, like Chef Marc

Sustainability is the keyword in all

over Addison, Born & Raised (new), Bar-

Dym’s Little River Inn and Chef Nicolas

things agriculture, and we can tip our hat to

busa, Barleymash, Campﬁre, Crack Shack,

Petti’s Mendo Bistro. Chef Peg Davis of

the Monterey Bay Aquarium for its

Cucina Urbana, Din Tai Fung, George’s at

Brewery Gulch Inn makes it a gourmand’s

impactful Seafood Watch program that

the Cove, Herb & Wood, Herringbone,

delight and The Wild Fish in Albion sets

helps diners make informed choices at

Juniper and Ivy, Lionﬁsh, Mister A’s, Puesto,

new standards for seaside dining. The

places like Cindy’s Waterfront and Passion-

Royale (new), Searsucker, Solare, Tender

Madrones in Anderson Valley oﬀers cen-

ﬁsh (Paciﬁc Grove).

Greens, Truluks and Whisknladle.

tralized wine tasting, gourmet food and posh accommodations, and Mendocino’s

Sonoma and Marin counties have become cheese tourism havens and apple

San Francisco Bay Area

beautifully preserved Joshua Grindle Inn

lovers can pick their ﬁll in Sebastopol and

Aglow with 6o Michelin star restaurants for

oﬀers rest and respite.

El Dorado’s Apple Hill.

2019, the region maintains its dominance

Coastside, berry farms (Swanton) and

over New York City as the epicenter of the

Carmel & Monterey

pumpkin patches (Arata’s, Half Moon Bay)

U.S. culinary realm for the second year in a

Newly re-opened Ventana and Paciﬁc-

beckon: visit Harley Farms for adorable

row. Dominique Crenn at last became the

perched Sierra Mar at Post Ranch beckon in

goats and exquisite cheese (Pescadero).

ﬁrst female chef to achieve three-star status

Big Sur, while Michelin-starred Aubergine

Many restaurants have on-site gardens,

for Atelier Crenn, celebrating with Single

tops the list in Carmel, joined by Il Grillo, La

including The Restaurant at Wente (Liver-

Thread Farms (Healdsburg) as the new

Balena, Seventh & Dolores, Anton & Michel

more), Chez TJ (Mountain View) and Zazu

triple-star winners. She was also awarded

and newly reopened Carmel Bouchée.

Kitchen (The Barlow, Sebastopol).

one star for Bar Crenn, joining other one-

Carmel Valley boasts Lucia at Bernardus

California’s olive oil production is

star newcomers Birdsong, Madcap, Nico

Lodge, helmed by esteemed Chef Cal Sta-

booming, with Stella Cadente (Fort Bragg),

and Protégé. The Bay Area’s three-star estab-

menov, along with Café Rustica, Carmel

Olivina (Livermore) and Olea (Paso Robles)

lishments now boast Benu, Coi, French

Valley Chophouse and Roux. Feast on the

all producing decadent ﬂavor-infusions.

Laundry, Meadowood, Manresa, Quince and

freshest local catches at Wild Fish in Paciﬁc

Saison, while Acquerello, Baumé, Cali-

Grove, where Monterey coastal cuisine is

LA & Environs

fornios, Commis and Lazy Bear sport two

front and center at Poppy Hall, and Fan-

Trendy LA area dining spots include Craft,

Michelin stars. Make your reservations now!

dango’s incomparable Old World charm

Dialogue,

Fundamental

DTLA,

Good

continues to impress.

Measure, Great White, ink.well, Jour-

Silicon Valley

neymen, L’Opera, Mh Zh, Oriel, Otium,

Oak + Violet is the new dining destination

Paley, Providence, The Stalking Horse, Tin-

in Menlo Park, while ASA tops the charts in

torera, Umi by Hamasaku and Uovo,

Los Altos. In Campbell, Flights joins

renowned for its fresh pasta. République,

Orchard City Kitchen (helmed by Michelin

French bakery, café and ice creamery, is the

starred Chef Jeﬀrey Stout). Luxe dining divas

popular creation of Margarita and Walter

Chez TJ, The Plumed Horse and The Village

Manke, who previously opened three

Pub all boast Michelin stars. Madera at Rose-

restaurants in Carmel, including L’Auberge

wood Sand Hill earned Wine Spectator’s

Carmel. Plant Food + Wine speaks to vegans.

Grand Award this year. Vino Cruz boasts the

tastingtable.com

LA Restaurants that earned Michelin

best collection of Santa Cruz Mountains

seriouseats.com

stars prior to 2010 include Asanebo, Cut,

YOUR » FIND NEXT MEAL Mouthwatering News chow.com eater.com slofoodbank.org

wines paired with superb cuisine.

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 49

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WINE COUNTRY

BY MARCY GORDON

Celebrating the Fruit of the Vine Wine tasting is always festive, no matter the season

Sampling local wines is a popular activity in the many wine growing regions up and down the state. California wines became famous when a Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena in Napa Valley won the Judgment of Paris in 1976. It was an event that rocked the wine world, and the quality of California wines has only grown since then.

50 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

There are so many wines, varieties and where to go and what to taste can be

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Livermore, Santa Cruz Mountains

daunting. Aside from taking a tour, one of

The most famous California wine region by

the best ways to get acquainted with an

far is in Northern California.

regions in California that figuring out

area is by attending a local wine festival.

Napa Valley is known around the world

Think of it as Wine-Recon, a most

for its exceptional wines, and draws more

delightful way to gather insight and

visitors than any other area. The quintessen-

information on local wineries in a short

tial wine country experience was perfected

span of time. From large-scale food and

here, with more than 300 wineries vying for

wine fests to small, quirky events, wine

your taste buds along Highway 29 and the

festivals can cater to both the casual wine

Silverado Trail. While the majority of visitors

fan and the experienced wine enthusiast

go to the big-name wineries such as Robert

determined to discover the next great

Mondavi, Beringer and Sterling, those in the

producer.

know are heading for Coombsville.

ERIC BERGER. OPPOSITE: VISIT CARMEL; LUKASZ SZWAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK

CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS

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For serious wine collectors, Auction Napa Valley has been the premier charity event of the season for more than 37 years. Love music and wine? Make plans to attend BottleRock in May; it’s the hipster festival of the year. Prefer something more pastoral? Wind your way up Highway 128 in Mendocino County to Anderson Valley for two exceptional festivals, the highly regarded

side other Italian varietals including Mon-

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Fest in May, and

tepulciano, Sangiovese, Vermentino, Pinot

the Aromatic White Wine Festival in Feb-

Grigio, Nebbiolo and Aglianico.

ruary, focusing on Alsace-style white wines.

uary, Barrel Tasting in March, and foodie

CENTRAL COAST Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Chalone, Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, Santa Clara Valley

favorite Wine and Food Aﬀair in November.

The Central Coast is one of the largest and

One of the oldest regions, Livermore, is

most diverse wine growing regions, and

just 30 miles east of San Francisco and best

Monterey is home to the granddaddy of all

known for its Chardonnay production and

wine festivals, the Pebble Beach Food & Wine

the well-established winery estates of

Classic in April, where you can sip ﬁne wines

Wente and Concannon.

and enjoy small plates by star chefs.

In Sonoma County, Healdsburg reigns as the king of the tasting rooms in California. The three most popular annual events in the area include Winter WINEland in Jan-

If you are a Pinot or Syrah fan, head for the

SIERRA FOOTHILLS El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras

highlands, the Santa Lucia Highlands, an

The mining towns of the Sierra foothills—

such as Morgan, Mer Soleil and Hahn.

Placerville,

Amador

City

and

appellation with many noteworthy wineries Sutter

Santa Clara Valley, one of the oldest wine

Creek—used to draw prospectors in search of

regions in California, was founded by Italian

gold, but now wine lovers come in search of

immigrants in the early 1800s and has now

riches in liquid form. The main street of Mur-

grown to approximately 25 wineries.

phys is lined with Gold Rush-era buildings

Looking to meet the next great wine-

and more than 20 tasting rooms equal parts

maker? The Southern Exposure Garagiste

rustic and sophisticated. The Barbera Festival

Festival in Solvang will introduce you to

is the perfect place to sample Barbera along-

the small guys with bright futures.

DINING IN THE VINEYARD at Vina Castellano in Auburn, opposite; wine tasting at the Caraccioli Cellars tasting room in Carmel by the Sea, top; the grape harvest begins in Napa, above.

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 51

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WINE COUNTRY HARVESTING GRAPES in Napa, bottom.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos, Temecula, Lodi, Madera, Clarksburg

on the rise, and it’s now recognized as one of the top wine regions in the new world, a hotbed of production growing more than 100 varieties in addition to its legendary Zin.

The Southern California coastal region

Vineyards inland in Southern Cali-

vineyards in Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills

fornia’s mostly hot and arid region are

and Santa Ynez Valley produce primarily

gaining notice, and Temecula in particular

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Santa

is generating an ardent following for its

Ynez Valley became the poster child for

wines and sheer determination to grow

wine tourism when the 2004 ﬁlm Sideways

grapes in a challenging location.

conﬁrmed its status as a Pinot Noir hot

San Diego usually means sun and sand,

spot (or cool spot, as Pinot grapes don’t like

but just an hour north you’ll ﬁnd there’s

too much heat). But the ghosts of Sideways’

wine too. Animal lovers will enjoy the San

Miles and Jack are long gone and it’s safe to

Diego Zoo Wine and Food Festival where

drink Merlot again. The end of September

you can stroll the grounds and sip wine in

brings the annual Celebration of Harvest,

the midst of the wild kingdom.

four days of wine and culinary experiences in Santa Barbara Wine Country.

» WINE FESTIVALS

California wine festivals and events ﬁll the calendar all year long, like a roulette

In the Central Valley, Lodi Zin Fest is

wheel of juicy prospects. Whether you plan

the most famous and longest running

ahead, or spin the big wine wheel and see

festival for Zinfandel lovers. Lodi’s star is

where it lands, the odds are delicious.

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA NAPA BottleRock—May 24-26 bottlerocknapavalley.com Auction Napa Valley—May 30-June 2 auctionnapavalley.org SONOMA Winter WINEland—Jan. 19-20 wineroad.com/events/winter-wineland Barrel Tasting—March 1-3, 8-10 wineroad.com/events/barrel-tasting/ Wine and Food Aﬀair—Nov. 2-3 wineroad.com/events/wine-food-aﬀair/ MENDOCINO Anderson Valley Aromatic White Wine Festival—Feb. 23-24 avwines.com Anderson Valley Pinot Fest—May 16-19 avwines.com/pinot.html CENTRAL COAST Southern Exposure Garagiste Festival (Solvang)—Feb. 8-9 californiagaragistes.com Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic— April 11-14 pbfw.com

San Diego Zoo Wine and Food— Sept. 21 sandiegozoo.org/zoo/celebration Santa Barbara Vintners Celebration of Harvest—Sept. 27-30 celebrationofharvest.com

52 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

LUKASZ SZWAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Zin Fest (Lodi Lake Park)—May 17-19 zinfest.com

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CASINOS

BY MATT VILLANO

Places to Play

BARONA RESORT & CASINO The Barona Indian Reservation in San Diego County, founded in 1932, is home to the Barona Resort & Casino, above, with its world-class Barona Creek Golf Club. The reservation is also home to the Barona Museum, which houses more than 2000 artifacts in displays of handmade pottery, reed baskets, paintings and arrowheads that date back thousands of years.

In the olden days—the days of Frank

games. They even have bingo. Many of

Sinatra and Bugsy Siegel—U.S. gamblers

these wagering wonderlands are “Vegas-

looking for a date with Lady Luck had one

style” resorts, complete with luxury hotels,

option: Las Vegas. Nowadays, with changes

top-notch restaurants and indulgent spas.

to gambling laws in many states, it’s a safe

A few of the properties even have their own

bet that bettors can throw down their cash

golf courses.

just about anywhere. Of all the states that

Card rooms are smaller, quieter and, in

now oﬀer gambling, the best (and most

many cases, more geared toward locals.

plentiful) options are in California.

Games here are far less varied—in most

The Golden State has two choices for

cases, as the name suggests, only card

people looking to place bets: Native Amer-

games are available. The upside? Gam-

ican casinos, and card rooms (which are

bling action is usually loose (and that’s a

gloriﬁed bars where gambling is legal, so

good thing).

long as the house doesn’t win).

54 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

We’ve divided California’s gambling

The Native American outposts tend to be

scene into four distinct geographical

farther from major cities but oﬀer nicer

regions. Wherever you go, bet wisely, and

digs. They have slots. They have table

remember to stay within your means.

SHERRY V SMITH/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHUKCHANSI; RUSLAN GUZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

Las Vegas isn’t the only show out West

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CHUKCHANSI GOLD Resort & Casino, right; trying their luck at the roulette table, bottom.

San Francisco Bay Area & Beyond Without question, the Bay Area is the most exciting region of California for gambling, with more options than any other part of the state. It also is home to the newest major spot to let chips ﬂy: Graton Resort & Casino. This attraction, located in Rohnert Park, is a hulking casino built and operated by Station Casinos, one of the largest casino companies in Las Vegas. Bettors cheer the swanky gambling ﬂoor, which boasts a 20table poker room, more than 130 table games, and thousands of slots. Foodies

hotels (Cache Creek, in Brooks, will double

ﬂock to the place, too—the restaurant

the size of its hotel by the time this guide is

lineup includes an outpost of local favorite

published.) Chukchansi is the closest

Boathouse Asian Eatery, and a food-court

casino to Yosemite National Park, just 27

outpost of Tony’s Neapolitan-style pizzeria.

miles from the southern entrance near

In November 2016, Graton also opened a

Wawona; it’s also just 15 miles from Bass

Just because California has casinos

200-room resort hotel and spa.

Lake Recreation Area. Twin Pine, nearly

doesn’t mean games there play the

Other Native American casinos in this

halfway between the wineries of the

same way they’d play in Las Vegas or

region are small but superlative in other

northern Napa Valley and Lake County, is

ways. Many, including Thunder Valley (Lin-

said to be the nation’s only wine-themed

coln), Chukchansi (Coarsegold) and Twin

casino destination. Red Hawk, in Plac-

Pine (Middletown) also have full-service

erville, oﬀers child-care services for tykes while mom and dad play. Most of the other gambling options in Northern California are card rooms, and

» KNOW THE RULES Atlantic City. Perhaps the biggest differences: craps and roulette. State gaming laws expressly prohibit the outcome of a game to be determined by dice or a ball. While the games incorporate traditional elements

many are located in the suburbs of San

of dice and a ball, the games

Francisco and Sacramento. The two most

themselves hinge on overturning

popular: San Jose’s Bay 101, which hosts a

different types of cards.

number of World Poker Tour events

For novices (or those just looking

throughout the year, and Colma’s Lucky

for a good time), these differences

Chances, which doles out nearly $1 million

are minimal. For hard-core craps and

in cash prizes over the course of every year.

roulette players, however, they make

Casino M8trix, in San Jose, distinguishes

the games so foreign that adjusting

itself with a thumping nightclub.

becomes tough. Ask the croupier to review the rules before buying-in. If

SoCal and LA Southern California—from the northern edge of the San Fernando Valley to the Mexico border, the Paciﬁc Ocean to I-15—is

a game seems confusing, don’t bother; there are dozens of other options throughout the casino.

home to some of the biggest Native Amer-

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CASINOS expansive poker rooms and host some of the most popular tournaments in the area.

The Desert Package deals abound for stay-and-play vacations at casino resorts in and around the Coachella Valley and Palm Springs. At Morongo Casino Resort & Spa in Cabazon, for instance, where an eﬀort to expand the gaming ﬂoor was slated for 2019, $259 per night gets guests a room plus a $30 casino credit and a $100 credit at one of the on-site restaurants. Similar deals are available at the Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa (Rancho Mirage). Most area casinos have their own golf courses, but locals rave about Eagle Falls, the course at Fantasy Springs Resort Casino in Indio. The 18-hole course was designed by architect Clive Clark.

Lake Tahoe Okay, okay, so the casinos that sidle up to Lake Tahoe are on the Nevada side of the state line. Still, they’re close enough to most other destinations in California that they deserve a mention here. Excluding those in Reno, the most accessible venues are located in South Lake Tahoe. Here, the Montbleu Resort, Casino & Spa (formerly a Caesars property) is by far

AGUA CALIENTE CASINO RESORT SPA, top; 5th hole at Journey, Pechanga Resort Casino’s links-style golf course, above.

and a four-diamond steakhouse that makes

Resort Southern California in Valley Center;

Ruth’s Chris seem like McDonald’s. The Hard

Pala Casino Spa Resort in Pala; Barona

Rock Hotel & Casino Lake Tahoe, with 500

Resort & Casino in Lakeside; and Pechanga

hotel rooms and a 25,000-square-foot

Resort & Casino in Temecula. All of these

casino, opened in 2015 in the old Horizon

properties boast Vegas-style hotels with

Casino Resort space located down the street.

eateries, shopping and spas. In early 2018,

Of course the best thing about casinos at

Viejas Casino & Resort, just outside San

Lake Tahoe is that because they’re in

Diego, added the adults-only Willows Hotel

Nevada, they play by Nevada rules (see

& Spa with 159 suites to its 234-room hotel.

sidebar). Since sports books and dice games

Closer to Los Angeles, the name of the

are illegal in the state of California, this

game is card rooms. Two facilities are worth

means Tahoe is the spot to place those

visiting for their grandeur alone: the Com-

kinds of bets.

merce Casino (Commerce) and the Bicycle Club (Bell Gardens). Both venues have

56 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Big spenders, consider yourselves warned. And good luck.

STEVE CUKROV/SHUTTERSTOCK; AIDAN BRADLEY

the swankiest, with ultra-modern lounges ican casinos in the state, including Harrah’s

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MUSEUMS & ART

BY LAURIE WEED

A Thriving Scene The Left Coast pays tribute to art, science and culture

The Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena contains 12,000 objects ranging from Renaissance paintings and Impressionist works to 2500 years of Asian sculpture, above.

Whether you prefer to ogle modern art or

County Museum of Art (LACMA). Down-

antiquities, Ice Age fossils or space shuttles,

town, the Museum of Contemporary Art

the Golden State’s wealth of world-class

(MoCA) and Geﬀen Contemporary show-

museums awaits. With more than 1,000

case the best in 20th- and 21st-century

museums of all sizes across the state,

painting, sculpture and conceptual art. The

there’s a lifetime of ﬁne art, science, history

Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA LA), for-

and culture to explore, as well as weird and

merly the Santa Monica Museum of Art, is

wonderful collections for every imaginable

now housed downtown to great acclaim.

niche-interest, from Star Wars memorabilia

The renowned Getty Museum includes

to the legends of Bigfoot. While it’s impos-

both the modern Getty Center in the Brent-

sible to do them all justice here, we’ve

wood district and the Getty Villa in Malibu,

attempted to highlight the best of the best.

which focuses on Greek and Roman classical art. Pasadena’s Norton Simon displays

58 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

The Arts

European and Modern artists amid a serene

Visiting LA? It’s easy to spend hours in the

sculpture garden. In nearby San Marino,

West’s largest art museum, the Los Angeles

The Huntington features an impressive

VISIT PASADENA. OPPOSITE: CITYPASS

NORTON SIMON MUSEUM

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THE SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART (SFMOMA), right, is one of the largest museums in the country and one of the world’s biggest museums dedicated to modern and contemporary art; the walk-through rainforest in the California Academy of Sciences, below.

library, art collections and 120 acres of

as The Annenberg Space for Photography in

botanical gardens.

LA and Pier 24 Photography Museum in San

San Francisco’s Legion of Honor, in

Francisco.

Lincoln Park, holds an extraordinary permanent collection and hosts top-notch

Science

exhibitions from around the world. In

The California Science Center in Los

nearby Golden Gate Park, the de Young

Angeles’ Exposition Park presents exhibits

showcases the arts of Africa, Oceania and

for all ages on invention, space travel and

the New World. The San Francisco Museum

life sciences—many of them interactive, all

of Modern Art (SFMOMA) reopened in 2016,

of them free! Ice Age enthusiasts and fossil-

Sausalito’s Bay Area Discovery Museum is a

and now spans 10 dazzling ﬂoors of gal-

philes will love the popular and gloriously

pint-sized

leries and 45,000 square feet of free public

sticky La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, an

promoting creative thinking. And, while

art space. Across the Bay, the Oakland

active geological site in Midtown. San Fran-

not a museum per se, the Monterey Bay

Museum of California (OMCA) is dedicated

cisco’s California Academy of Sciences, in

Aquarium deserves to be included among

to native arts, history and ecology, and

Golden Gate Park, features the impressive

the Wonders of the World for its aston-

sponsors many family-friendly events and

Steinhart Aquarium, a walk-through rain-

ishing displays of sea otters and jellies,

hands-on activities.

forest

and

mesmerizing three-story kelp forest and a staggering million-gallon “Outer Bay” tank.

with

free-ranging

birds

Wonderland

dedicated

Down the coast, the Santa Barbara

butterﬂies, the world’s largest, all-digital

Museum of Art deserves a nod for its ambi-

planetarium and a “Living Roof” with 1.7

tious and imaginative exhibitions. San

million native California plants. The long

Culture

Diego’s Museum of Contemporary Art fea-

admission lines can be daunting, but it’s

California is a rare and enduring alloy of

tures a variety of exhibits in the historic

worth the eﬀort. At Piers 15 and 17 on the

more than 50 ethnic groups. Its museums

Jacob building downtown (its oceanfront La

Embarcadero, the legendary Exploratorium

reﬂect the racial diversity and cultural his-

Jolla property is closed for expansion, soon

houses

interactive

tory of this melting pot in microcosm.

to quadruple its gallery space). For photog-

exhibits—including an amazing “Tinkerers’

What follows is but a sample; there are

raphy buﬀs, there’s the excellent Museum

Clock” and the crawl-through Tactile Dome.

many, many more to choose from.

of Photographic Arts in Balboa Park, as well

Designed for explorers under eight,

than

650

San Francisco’s Contemporary Jewish Museum and Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD) provide fascinating insights into two of California’s most creative ethnic traditions. A visit to the Asian Art Museum in Civic Center is the next best thing to a trip along the ancient Silk Road. In Long Beach, the Museum of Latin American Art (MoLAA) features contemporary works of the New World. San Diego’s tiny-but-mighty New Americans Museum honors the cultural diversity of immigrants through art and storytelling in Liberty

Station—also

home

the

Women’s Museum of California, one of just three museums in the country dedicated to women’s history.

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PERFORMING ARTS

BY LAURIE WEED

On with the Show The arts are alive in California hosts the annual Young Playwrights Festival). The city’s star attraction is the Center Theatre Group, with everything from topshelf

classics

cutting-edge

solo

performances on three stages: the Mark Taper Forum, the Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ahmanson Theatre. San Francisco’s legendary American Conservatory Theater (A.C.T.), Magic Theatre and Z Space are just a few of the city’s beloved native companies—not to mention the politically charged San Francisco Mime Troupe, now in its 61st year. For solo performance, check out both Intersection for the Arts and The Marsh, which has locations in San Francisco and Berkeley. A terriﬁc addition to the Bay Area theater scene is We Players, “connecting people with place through site-integrated theatre.” Across the Bay Bridge, Berkeley Repertory Theatre continues its tradition of inspired experimentation. And don’t

SAN FRANCISCO SYMPHONY

Performance is the lifeblood of the arts,

overlook “Cal Shakes”—the California

especially in California. From the Barbary

Shakespeare Company—with its gorgeous

The San Francisco Symphony, founded in 1911, is recognized as one of the country’s preeminent orchestras. Music director Michael Tilson Thomas, above, has led the orchestra since 1995 and is the longest-serving music director in the Symphony’s history. Don’t wait to see him conduct, because he will step down following the 2019-2020 season.

Coast docks to the Paramount studio lots,

open-air venue in the Orinda hills.

drama, dance and music have always been an indelible part of the “Left Coast” spirit. The state’s scores of concert halls, symphony orchestras, theaters, jazz clubs, dance

companies,

comedy

troupes,

cabarets, operas and fringe festivals lay waste to the notion of spending a quiet evening (or even an afternoon) at home. A full accounting is impossible, but here are some suggestions to consider.

Regional Theaters Los Angeles, not surprisingly, supports dozens of outstanding theater companies— such as Open Fist, Actor’s Co-op, diverse Cornerstone and Blank Theater (which

60 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

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CORY WEAVER/SAN FRANCISCO OPERA; JUSTIN HIGUCHI/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: BILL SWERBENSKI/SAN FRANCISCO SYMPHONY; ERIK TOMASSON

A SCENE FROM VERDI’S La Traviata with dancers Lorena Feijóo, Bryan Ketron and Blanche Hampton, San Francisco Opera, left; ZZ Ward performing live at The Roxy Theatre in West Hollywood, below; Frances Chung and Joseph Walsh in Scarlett’s Frankenstein, San Francisco Ballet, opposite bottom.

San Diego’s venerable La Jolla Playhouse

and Los Angeles Opera are two of the largest

has seen dozens of its productions move to

in North America, with global reputations.

Broadway, earning 35 Tony Awards. The Old

Kudos as well to the Long Beach Opera, now

Globe Theatre presents the plays of Shake-

in its fourth decade.

speare (of course), as well as works by

Ballet in the Golden State has an equally

the likes of Arthur Miller and an annual

impressive pedigree. The San Francisco

Christmas production penned by a late

Ballet, founded in 1933, was the first pro-

local resident: Dr. Seuss.

fessional ballet company in the country.

Other excellent California theaters

The California Ballet Company in San

include the South Coast Repertory in Costa

Diego, largest in the region, has a stellar

Mesa and the Sacramento Theater Com-

international reputation. Founded in

pany. Finally, the state hosts at least ﬁve

2004, the Los Angeles Ballet is a relative

Rock ‘n’ Roll ‘n’ More

annual Fringe Festivals.

newcomer to the scene, while the reinvig-

From the Doors to the Dead, California has

long been Ground Zero for great live music.

orated Oakland Ballet is now in its 54

Symphonies, Opera & Ballet

season.

Frank Owen Gehry designed the Walt Disney

In San Francisco, check out what’s on at the Fillmore, the Warﬁeld, the Independent

Concert Hall, home of the renowned Los

Jazz & Blues

and Great American Music Hall. Some of

Angeles Philharmonic, to be one of the most

Here’s a quick sampler of the state’s best

the best venues in the East Bay include the

acoustically perfect performance spaces

jazz and blues clubs. Oakland oﬀers the leg-

Fox and the glorious Paramount Theater in

on Earth. California’s other preeminent

endary Yoshi’s in Jack London Square and

Oakland, as well as Berkeley’s Greek The-

orchestra is the San Francisco Symphony,

Geoﬀrey’s Inner Circle downtown. In San

atre—known simply as “the Greek.” In

directed by the legendary Michael Tilson

Francisco, don’t miss the SF Jazz Center and

Marin County, down-home Sweetwater

Thomas, at home in Louise M. Davies Sym-

for blues, try The Saloon and Club Deluxe.

Music Hall often hosts well-known artists.

phony Hall. San Diego, Sacramento,

In Santa Cruz, it’s all happening at the

Looking to rock it in LA? Check out the

Oakland, Santa Cruz and Santa Barbara all

Kuumbwa Jazz Center, and in Sacramento

Troubadour, the Roxy and Whisky a Go Go,

support superb orchestras as well.

(for blues), The Torch Club. In LA, ﬁnd the

an LA institution since 1964. Some other

Opera still maintains a huge following in

hottest new oﬀerings at the Jazz Bakery,

legendary California venues include the

California, with nearly thirty companies

along with the tiny Baked Potato and the

Catalyst in Santa Cruz, the Casbah and “the

across the state. The San Francisco Opera

Catalina Jazz Club.

Brick” (Brick by Brick) in San Diego.

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MOVIES The Stuff of Dreams Many of your favorite films were shot in California

BY JACQUELINE YAU

The Santa Ynez Valley reposes in Santa Barbara County between the Santa Ynez Mountains to the south and the San Rafael Mountains to the north. The 2004 ﬁlm Sideways was shot on location here and prompted a surge in tourism to the area that continues to this day.

For more than a century, with California

fornia that cottage industries have cropped

as a backdrop, movie-making master illu-

up guiding tourists to ﬁlm locations. There

sionists have inﬂuenced attitudes, shaped

are hundreds of places to visit in Holly-

perceptions and fashion globally through

wood and greater Los Angeles, the cradle of

memorable quotes such as, “Just one

the movie business. One of the better-kept

word…plastics” from The Graduate (1967) to

secrets is Greystone Mansion and Park in

Arnold Schwarzenegger’s line in The Termi-

Beverly Hills, which sits on 16 acres and is

nator (1984), “I’ll be back.” Inspired by the

the setting for dozens of movies, including

Golden State’s striking landscapes, multidi-

Star Trek Into Darkness (2013), The Social

mensional culture and laid-back lifestyle,

Network (2010), the Spiderman series (2002-

ﬁlmmakers have created a breathless diver-

2007) and X-Men (2000). Go back in time

sity of movies representing the human

and get a taste of Los Angeles as evoked in

condition.

La La Land (2016) where the ﬁlm was shot in 48 locations including Angels Flight

62 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Film Locations by the Hundreds

Railway, Grand Central Market, Watts Tower

So many movies have been ﬁlmed in Cali-

and the Colorado Street Bridge.

CAROLIN SUNSHINE/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHECUBUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

SANTA YNEZ VALLEY

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HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD in Los Angeles, right; a vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, opposite.

If you are hungry, snack on an apple

Francisco), and East of Eden (1955) shot in

Check for tickets before going on a studio

fritter at Randy’s Donuts, the oft-ﬁlmed and

Mendocino, or Some Like It Hot (1959)

tour because many require advance tick-

hard-to-miss 24-hour drive-through bakery

ﬁlmed at the Hotel del Coronado in San

eting or reservations. Ask your guide if you

with a giant donut on its roof, seen in Iron

Diego. Or you want to retrace Tippi

can take a peek into a current movie shoot

Man 2 (2010). Soak in the views of Los

Hedren’s steps in Alfred Hitchcock’s sus-

and you may spot a celebrity walking by.

Angeles at Griﬃth Observatory ﬁrst made

pense ﬁlm, The Birds, shot in Bodega Bay

Game shows, talk shows and TV come-

famous in the James Dean ﬁlm, Rebel

and other parts of Sonoma County and in

dies often need a live audience. Free studio

Without a Cause (1955) and more recently

San Francisco.

audience tickets are handled through distributors such as On Camera Audiences,

seen in San Andreas (2015), Terminator Genisys (2015) and McFarland, USA (2015).

Studio Tours and TV Audiences

Or join Dearly Departed Tours for their spe-

Other ways to get a glimpse of the entertain-

cial Halloween Horror Film Location Tour

ment business are to take a studio tour or

Watch a Movie

around Hollywood and Pasadena.

attend a live taping of a TV show.

While in LA, consider doing what Angelenos

Audiences Unlimited and 1iota.

LA isn’t the only place movies are shot.

Although there are movie studios in

love to do: watch movies. During the

San Francisco has been the backdrop for

other parts of California, notably Pixar Ani-

summer, enjoy a classic ﬁlm under starlight

countless ﬁlms. San Francisco Movie Tours’

mation Studios and Lucasﬁlm in the San

with the dead and the living at the Hollywood

three-hour bus excursion visits locations

Francisco Bay Area, most are located in and

Forever Cemetery, going on its 18th season.

where 70 movie scenes from more than 55

around Los Angeles. Those that oﬀer

Catch a movie where many directors

movies were ﬁlmed (Vertigo, Mrs. Doubtﬁre,

behind-the-scenes studio tours include

screen their films and sometimes key off

Basic Instinct, The Rock, Contagion, The Pur-

Warner Bros. (interact with the DC Comics

audience reactions to tweak a scene or

suit of Happyness). Down the coast a bit,

universe and peek into the costume and

two at the AMC Century City 15 Theatres at

Monterey Movie Tours winds through Mon-

prop room for the Harry Potter movies),

Westfield Century City shopping center.

terey,

Carmel,

Universal (Hollywood’s most famous back

Soak in the Hollywood of an earlier era by

spotlighting locations of other ﬁlms. Even

lot covering 13 city blocks on four acres),

watching films at historic movie palaces

farther south, if you enjoy wine, follow the

Sony Pictures (formerly the historic MGM

such as the beautifully restored 1923 Vista

path forged by Miles and Jack on their

studios famous for Gone with the Wind and

Theatre with its Egyptian-themed Art

tasting road trip through the Santa Barbara

The Wizard of Oz) and Paramount studios

Deco interiors.

wine country in Sideways (2004).

(the one studio that is still located in Hol-

When you next watch a movie ﬁlmed in

Paciﬁc

Grove

and

Perhaps you’re nostalgic for classic ﬁlms

lywood). Many movies that are shot on

the state, remember that not only are you

such as American Graﬃti (1973) ﬁlmed in

location also often have scenes shot on a

experiencing the drama of life, you’re also

downtown Petaluma (30 miles north of San

studio soundstage.

getting a taste of California.

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STATE & NATIONAL PARKS

BY BONNIE SMETTS

Awesome by Nature

Scramble up boulders in Joshua Tree’s

thunder to the valley ﬂoor. Come in

Wonderland of Rocks. Time travel on a his-

summer when the park is abuzz with visi-

toric ship in San Francisco Bay. Stand

tors to explore by tram, bike or on foot.

beneath giant redwoods that author John

Choose a gentle half-hour hike or reserve a

Steinbeck called ambassadors from another

spot for the all-day climb up Half Dome.

time. Whatever your passion, California’s

Junior Ranger Walks are popular with kids.

280 state parks and 32 national parks,

Backpackers can enjoy the solitude of the

national park established by

seashores and monuments—whose mis-

park’s high country and expert rock

Congress. The greater Lassen area

sion is to protect the state’s natural and

climbers have dozens of granite walls to

has been volcanically active for

cultural treasures—are the gateway to expe-

scale. Don’t leave the park without stopping

3 million years.

riences as varied as the state’s geography.

at Glacier Point with its views of Half Dome

LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK Manzanita Lake and Lassen Peak, above, are prime attractions in Lassen Volcanic National Park, which in 1916 became the ﬁfteenth

and Yosemite Valley or at the Mariposa

64 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Yosemite & the Sierra Nevada

Grove of giant sequoias to marvel at its

Yosemite National Park, with its glacier-

2,700-year-old Grizzly Giant.

sculpted valley and granite peaks, is

To see a really big tree—the world’s

justiﬁably one of the world’s natural treas-

largest by volume—head south to Sequoia

ures. Come in spring when the waterfalls

and Kings Canyon National Parks and

CHRIS FLENTYE. OPPOSITE: VISIT CARMEL; LARRY HABEGGER

California’s natural and cultural heritage is easy to explore

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MANZANITA LAKE AND LASSEN PEAK in Lassen Volcanic National Park, opposite; Garrapata State Park at the gateway to Big Sur, left; climbing the Mist Trail to Vernal Fall in Yosemite National Park, below.

marvel at the weighty General Sherman. While still in the mountains, take a trip to Lake Tahoe, North America’s largest alpine lake. Along the lake’s west shore, D.L. Bliss, Emerald Bay and Sugar Pine Point state parks oﬀer camping, hiking and white sand beaches. Farther north at Lassen Volcanic National Park, watch California take shape in the roaring fumaroles, thumping mud pots and boiling pools.

Giants in the Mist While the Sierras are home to the heftiest redwoods, the state’s fog-shrouded coastal range from Oregon to Big Sur boasts the loftiest—several are taller than the Statue of Liberty. These rare trees, once logged to near extinction, are now protected within California’s redwood parks. At Humboldt Redwoods State Park, home to the largest continuous old growth redwood forest on earth, drive the 31-mile Avenue of the Giants and make stops along the way to stroll among the titans. Founders Grove with its majestic 346-foot specimen is always a favorite. Visit in spring to see the pink redwood lilies and purple calypso orchids in bloom. Farther north and closer to the coast, the Redwood National and State Parks is a collection of four parks with miles of unspoiled coast and hiking trails. The

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STATE & NATIONAL PARKS Burning Sands & Delicate Wildflowers Miles from the coast, California’s deserts are lands of extremes. Vast Death Valley National Park holds the record for the hottest temperature, driest climate and lowest elevation in North America. It is also famous for its explosion of wildflowers after winter rains. For a bird’s-eye panorama, stop at Dante’s View. On the valley floor, walk the Badwater Salt Flats or take an afternoon drive to Zabriskie Point to snap the garishly colored badlands. Trips to Titus Canyon and the Racetrack take you deeper into the park’s unique landscape, but only for those with proper vehicles and preparation. Unfortunately, the winter floods of 2017 closed the road to Scotty’s Castle until 2020. Furnace Creek Campground, one of nine in the park, with sites for RVs, groups and tents, provides a central location for exploring the park. Because of favorable weather and temperatures, fall to spring is the park’s busiest time. The Mojave National Preserve is famous for its singing sand dunes and seven-million-year-old volcanic cinder cones. Joshua climbers, mountain bikers and birders, is home to the gangly tree that gives the park its name. While both have spring wildflower displays, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is legendary. Its flowers are usually the first to burst into color—catching the park’s cactus bloom is the prize.

To the Beach A visit to California is incomplete without tallest recorded Coast Redwood hides here,

spending time on the beach, but not all of

its location kept secret to protect it. How-

them are the iconic white sandy kind. You

ever, you can visit the remote Tall Trees

will ﬁnd black sand at Sinkyone Wilderness

Grove if you have a day to spare and want to

State Park on the north coast. At the Men-

nab one of the daily permits. But all the

docino Headlands State Park, bundle up

parks provide easy access to magniﬁcent

and enjoy a beach walk with a view of the

groves as well as picnic sites, campgrounds

Victorian village.

and trails for hikers, cyclists and horses.

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Closer to San Francisco, the sweeping arc

SONOMA COUNTY CVB; MICHAEL STUBBEN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SONOMA COUNTY CVB

Tree National Park, a favorite with rock

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of Point Reyes National Seashore is home

Rocks to Castles

California’s parks have a surprise in store for

to a dozen beaches, with drive-up Drakes

California is more than its geography. Living

you. And whatever your destination, always

Beach and hike-in Limantour as favorites.

history programs bring the past to life in

check current conditions and access infor-

Make your way to park headlands in early

many parks. At Railtown 1897 Historic State

mation before heading out.

spring to view the gray whale migration.

Park, ride the vintage trains that often appear

Edging the entrance to San Francisco Bay,

in ﬁlms, television productions and com-

the beaches and cliﬀ trails of the Golden

mercials. At Indian Grinding Rock State

Gate National Recreation Area are the gate-

Historic Park, visit a reconstructed village

ways to urban adventures and historic sites

with a ceremonial roundhouse and presen-

such as Alcatraz Island.

tations by descendants of the Miwoks. The

Continuing down the coast to Santa Cruz

21 missions founded by the Spanish along El

and Monterey, surﬁng spots alternate with

Camino Real, or the King’s Highway, pre-

quiet coves that are home to sea otters and

serve the arrival of non-natives to California.

seals. Behold the thousands of monarch but-

Old Town San Diego State Historic Park, with

terﬂies that winter at Natural Bridges State

its restored plaza and adobes, captures the

Beach. In Carmel, whose beauty has been long

period when San Diego grew from a Mexican

favored by plein air artists, Point Lobos State

pueblo into an American town. And then

Natural Reserve is a must-visit for everyone.

there’s gold fever. Pan for gold at Marshall

Big Sur’s Julia Pfeiﬀer Burns State Park oﬀers

Gold Discovery State Historic Park where the

stunning views of the rugged coast from its

mineral was ﬁrst discovered. Visualize a

cliﬀ-side trails. Access to Pfeiﬀer Beach, a day

miner’s life at Bodie State Historic Park, an

beach, is just south of the Big Sur Ranger Sta-

intact ghost town from the era.

tion. The road to Big Sur has reopened after the

place

reﬂects

California’s

big

2017 landslides but check park websites for

dreamers better than the Hearst San Simeon

current trail and park access information.

State Historical Monument, a testament to

At mid coast, rocky cliﬀs ﬁnally give way

publisher William Randolph Hearst and

to warm water and California’s famous end-

architect Julia Morgan. Tour the 115-room

less ﬂat beaches. Movie buﬀs can camp at

castle and imagine the presidents, pub-

Malibu Creek State Park where M*A*S*H

lishing luminaries and Hollywood stars who

and Planet of the Apes were ﬁlmed. And

gathered there. Also at mid state, climbers

then there’s Huntington Beach, a.k.a. Surf

and birders will not be disappointed at Pin-

City USA. Huntington State Beach’s soft

nacles, California’s newest national park.

sand, safe swimming and good surﬁng make it the California classic.

Whatever kind of experience you seek,

ARMSTRONG REDWOODS STATE Natural Reserve in Guerneville, Sonoma County, opposite top; California suncup desert wildﬂower, opposite bottom; one of the world’s hottest places in summer, Death Valley, above, also contains the lowest point in North America, and this is just 85 miles from Mount Whitney, the continental U.S.’s highest point.

» FIND YOUR PARK Individual State Parks www.parks.ca.gov National Parks nps.gov/state/CA Campsites & Lodging Reservations State Parks: reservecalifornia.com National Parks: recreation.gov Lighthouses (many open to the public, some offering accommodations) nps.gov/maritime/inventories/ lights/ca.htm Wildflower Updates at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park Wildflower Hotline 760-767-4684 Or check the park’s website at www.parks.ca.gov.

from a city adventure to a high country trek,

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GOLF BY ROBERT KAUFMAN

Swing Away! Diverse geography offers spectacular options for teeing it up

DESERT COURSES PGA West—TPC Stadium Course Since opening in 1986, the TPC Stadium Course in La Quinta has been rated one of the “Top 100 Courses in the World” by GOLF Magazine.

This

7,300-yard

challenge

designed by Pete Dye hosts PGA Tour “Qhaving to navigate cavernous bunkers, an island green (known as “Alcatraz”) at hole #17 as well as the menacing water-lined 18th. Named “Stadium” due to Dye’s ingenious plan to sculpt spectator seating into the natural terrain, one of the most memorable events includes Lee Trevino’s hole-in-one on #17 earning him $175,000 from a carry-over skin in the 1987 “Skins Game.” pgawest.com

Indian Wells Golf Resort

GOLF ACROSS THE STATE

Mother Nature has blessed California

Only 20 minutes from Palm Springs Interna-

with an astonishing array of mountains,

tional Airport, golfers have the opportunity to

California is one of the world’s top

valleys, forests, coastline and desert that

play the Players Course (John Fought, 2007)

golf destinations, and no matter

has helped make the Golden State one of

and Celebrity Course (Clive Clark, 2006) at a

which region you choose, you’ll ﬁnd a

the most attractive golf destinations on

property with the distinction of being the

course to suit your game, whether it’s

the planet.

only 36-hole public golf facility with both

on the coast at Pasatiempo Golf Club in Santa Cruz, above, in the desert at TPC Stadium Course in La Quinta, or in the mountains at Coyote Moon Golf Course in Truckee.

Taking advantage of these geological assets,

courses on Golfweek’s “Best Courses You Can

a who’s-who of golf course architects, from

Play” in California. Combined with a lighted,

old-school designers like Alister MacKenzie and A.W. Tillinghast to modern-day shapers such as Jack Nicklaus, Robert Trent Jones, Jr. and Tom Fazio, have crafted challenges to suit every golfer’s taste and budget. Today, there are more than 600 public courses scattered throughout California ranging from iconic masterpieces like Pebble Beach Golf Links on the Paciﬁc coast to hidden gems such as Greenhorn Creek in the Gold Country. Depending upon skill level and preferred environment, here are some notable nuggets that will help create a golf experience of a lifetime.

68 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

ROBERT KAUFMAN. OPPOSITE: ROBERT KAUFMAN; ROBERT KAUFMAN; GANG LIU/SHUTTERSTOCK

School” Finals every other year with players

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:14 AM Page 69

9-hole, natural grass putting course and a

look and play: the ﬁrst ﬁve holes roll

53,000-square-foot clubhouse, this “muni”

through sandy seaside dunes while the

golf experience in the desert is unparalleled.

remaining 13 holes cut through majestic

indianwellsgolfresort.com

pines with elevated greens and strategically placed bunkers and lakes to grab

OCEAN COURSES

errant shots. pebblebeach.com

Pebble Beach Golf Links Located along the storied Monterey Penin-

MOUNTAIN COURSES

sula, there are few golf thrills like teeing-up

Whitehawk Ranch Golf Club

for the ﬁrst time on Pebble Beach Golf

Carved from the natural terrain of the

Links, ranked No. 1 on Golf Digest’s

Mohawk Valley, approximately one hour

“America’s 100 Greatest Public Golf

north of Lake Tahoe in the Plumas National

Courses.” At the Jack Neville/Douglas Grant

Forest, the fairways are framed with native

design (1919), golfers can feel the presence

grasses and a profusion of wildﬂowers.

of the game’s biggest legends that have

Seven meandering streams through tall

competed in the annual AT&T Pebble Beach

pines, cedars, ﬁrs and quaking aspens con-

National Pro-Am and ﬁve U.S. Open Cham-

tribute to the challenge and beauty of the

pionships. Jack Nicklaus said, “If I only had

6,955-yard, Dick Bailey-designed course.

one more round to play, I would choose to

golfwhitehawk.com

play it at Pebble Beach.” pebblebeach.com

Coyote Moon Golf Course Spyglass Hill Golf Course Taking

page

from

Nestled in a serene setting at 6,800 feet above Robert

Louis

sea level in Truckee (Lake Tahoe) among tow-

Stevenson’s classic novel, Treasure Island,

ering

Spyglass has hole names such as “Black

outcroppings, the 7,177-yard Brad Bell design

Dog” and “Billy Bones,” hints for the

serves up one of the best mountain golf expe-

unwary at this demanding 6,960-yard

riences in the country. With generous

layout. Designed (1966) by Robert Trent

fairways and not a single home to spoil the

Jones, Sr., holes 6, 8 and 16 are listed

dramatic views, this upscale daily-fee course

among the toughest on the PGA Tour. Spy-

provides dramatic elements of risk, including

glass features two distinctly diﬀerent kinds

the 13th, a 200-yard par 3 that drops 80 feet

of terrain that inﬂuence how the fairways

from tee to green. coyotemoongolf.com

pines

and

enormous

granite

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Celebrity GC at Indian Wells Resort, Whitehawk Ranch Golf Club, Pebble Beach Golf Links.

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SPAS & WELLNESS

BY LAVINIA SPALDING

Stop In, Bliss Out California’s diverse wellness centers offer a full menu of rest and replenishment

This celebrated region and neighboring Sonoma Valley are known primarily for their wine, but their appeal runs deeper than that. You can pamper yourself at luxury spas—such as Solage in Calistoga (above), Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary in Freestone or Meadowood in Saint Helena— dine at some of California’s (and the USA’s) best restaurants, shop at trendy boutiques or live a little rougher and explore wild state parks.

70 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

San Francisco’s vibrant Japantown

munal baths costs only $30, or $15 with a

district—the oldest and largest in the

treatment or free with any two treat-

U.S.—is a hot spot for shopping and

ments, such as the 80-minute Javanese

dining. Buses and bikes whiz by on the

Lulur: a jasmine-scented massage fol-

streets, teens congregate on corners, and

lowed by a turmeric and rice skin

tourists snap selfies in front of the Peace

exfoliation, a yogurt application and an

Pagoda. But inside Kabuki Springs & Spa,

exotic flower bath).

the city vanishes. All you’ll hear in the

For people around the globe, the name

dimly lit, Japanese-style communal baths

“California” evokes escape and conjures

is the gentle splashing of water paired

images of sunny beaches. But in today’s

with soft, soothing music. Recline in the

demanding, perpetually wired world, a true

dry sauna with chilled cucumber slices for

vacation requires more than just a break

your eyes, then continue to the steam

from the oﬃce; it takes unplugging, puri-

room and exfoliate with a lemon-sea salt

fying and restoring. Luckily, this is

scrub. Follow with a long, lazy soak in the

practically the state motto.

hot tub and—if you’re brave—a cold

California has been a resort destination

plunge. When you’re finished, start all

since the early 20th century, beckoning trav-

over again. In fact, linger all day: the com-

elers with its year-round temperate

SOLAGE AUBERGE RESORTS. OPPOSITE: 1440 MULTIVERSITY

NAPA VALLEY

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INFINITY EDGE hot tub at 1440 Multiversity, bottom

weather, spectacular geography and mineral

dining and beverage service, plus mud

custom-blended

springs. The 1950s brought yoga to the state,

baths, eucalyptus-steeped steam rooms

Located on a private, two-hundred-ﬁfty-

and the 1960s ushered in a wave of young

and a meditation pond.

acre estate, Meadowood also oﬀers golf,

aromatherapy

oils.

tennis, croquet, hiking and swimming.

hippies passionate about all-natural food and intentional living. Today, California is

Wine Country Wellness

the nation’s vortex of personal health and

Though Napa Valley and Sonoma are

Spa Terra at the Meritage Resort, treatments

self-improvement, with spas and wellness

known for some of the world’s best grapes,

take place below the vineyard in an under-

centers almost as ubiquitous as scenic

you can soak up much more than wine in

ground wine cave. Treat yourself to the

views. From ﬁve-star luxury resorts and

this beautiful region. Residents and visitors

ﬁfty-minute “uncork”: a grape-seed scrub

posh day spas to holistic healing programs

alike have long enjoyed the area’s natural

followed by a skin-regenerating wine and

and “hippie hot springs,” the array of

mineral waters, and today’s spa menus

rosehip mud wrap (rich in minerals and

retreats will dazzle even the most experi-

overﬂow with therapeutic ingredients such

antioxidants) and a sumptuous application

enced serenity seeker. Here are some of our

as grape seeds and skins, rich in antioxi-

of cabernet grape-seed lotion. (Add on foot

favorite spots for the ultimate escape.

dants and polyphenols.

and scalp treatments for an extra $25 each).

Many spas oﬀer vineyard views, but at

For ﬁrst-class accommodations, a three-

Use of the Jacuzzi and steam room is

Taking the Waters

star

Home to numerous large geothermal areas,

pampering, visit the 14,000-square-foot

But it’s not all about grapes in wine

California has for centuries been a cele-

all-suite Meadowood Spa and choose a

country. At Solage, an Auberge spa, the sig-

brated mineral springs destination, with

curated treatment package such as the

nature treatment is “the mudslide,” which

myriad spas statewide. Two hours inland

three-hour “From the Earth,” which

combines a lavish mud application with

from Los Angeles, Desert Hot Springs oﬀers

includes a hot and cold stone massage and

customized essential oils from their “mud

dozens of options, from the glamorous,

a black walnut scrub enhanced with

bar,” a soak in a private geo-thermal mineral

Michelin

dinner

and

extreme

included with services.

sprawling Two Bunch Palms (featured in the movie The Player) to cozy boutique inns like Hacienda Hot Springs. The Central Coast also boasts famous baths, such as Tassajara, the ﬁrst Zen monastery built outside of Asia. But small, funky Calistoga in the north is the state’s oldest spa town, renowned not only for hot springs but also abundant volcanic ash used for therapeutic mud treatments. Eight thousand years ago, the Wappo Indians named the area “Ta La Ha Lu Si,” meaning “Beautiful Land” or “Oven Place,” and today spa facilities run the gamut from luxurious to laid-back. The oldest in Calistoga—and likely California—is Indian Springs, opened in 1862 by Sam Brannan, the ﬁrst Gold Rush millionaire. Today the 17-acre property remains a refuge, featuring an Olympic-size mineral pool heated to 92102 degrees depending on the season ($25 extra on weekdays, $50 extra on weekends and holidays), an adults-only pool with

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SPAS & WELLNESS THAI HERBAL POULTICE MASSAGE at Kabuki Springs & Spa, left.

Massages are available, gourmet vegetarian

Ultimately, California’s wellness cul-

fare is served, and sleeping quarters are pri-

ture promises visitors far more than

vate accommodations, heated yurts or

relaxation; it ensures that this time you

creekside camping under the stars.

won’t need a vacation from your vacation. You’ll return home recharged and rejuve-

Health First

nated—that is, if you can bring yourself to

When the sublime Golden Door opened in

return home at all.

Escondido in 1958, it was a pioneer among American spas. It’s since become one of the world’s finest health resorts, hosting Hollywood’s glitterati. Golden Door spe-

FIND YOUR SPA

cializes in fitness, Eastern philosophy, relaxation and opulence. Guests pre-

state-of-the-art vibrating sound chairs (think

arrange completely customized five- or

relaxing music meets gentle chair massage).

seven-day packages with fitness options as

And at Sonoma’s innovative and eco-

diverse as Pilates, fencing, tennis, dance,

conscious Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary, the

boxing and archery. Each stay includes

house specialty is a cedar enzyme “bath.”

healthy meals and a cooking lesson, facial

You’ll immerse yourself to the chin in

treatments, herbal wraps, a mani-pedi,

warm, ﬁnely ground cedar, rice bran and

mindfulness sessions, daily in-room mas-

plant enzymes. Heated by natural fermen-

sages and much more. Plus, it’s a feel-good

tation, the treatment is said to aid

stay in a larger sense, because Golden Door

digestion, improve circulation and relieve

pledges 100 percent of its net profits to

muscle pain.

charity.

Om Sweet Om

ment experience (and a much lower cost of

When yoga came to America, some of the

entry), head to 1440 Multiversity in the

ﬁrst studios appeared in Hollywood and

beautiful redwoods near Santa Cruz.

San Francisco. The practice has since

Named for the 1440 minutes in every day,

become a way of life for countless Califor-

this new immersive learning center oﬀers

nians, and hundreds of top-notch centers,

an ever-changing roster of courses in such

from ritzy to rustic, cater to beginners and

disciplines as writing, art, music, spiritu-

gurus alike.

ality,

Or for the total mind-body-soul en-rich-

health,

nutrition,

lifestyle,

One of the world’s most renowned yoga

movement—you name it. Between classes,

retreats is tucked into the Santa Ynez

join in daily meditation, yoga, Qi gong and

Mountains above Santa Barbara. At the

tai chi. Hike forest trails, treat yourself to a

White Lotus Foundation Center, guests

massage, and enjoy the inﬁnity tub over-

spend their days doing sun salutations in a

looking the redwoods. You can also sign up

canyon with ocean views, hiking through

for (or add on) a few days of the R&R pro-

old-growth oaks, meditating in an under-

gram, which includes nutritious meals, use

ground Hopi-style kiva temple and

of the campus and daily meditation and

swimming in natural sandstone pools.

movement classes.

72 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Kabuki Springs & Spa kabukisprings.com Two Bunch Palms Resort & Spa twobunchpalms.com Hacienda Hot Springs haciendahotsprings.com Tassajara Hot Springs sfzc.org/tassajara Indian Springs indianspringscalistoga.com Meadowood meadowood.com/spa Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary osmosis.com White Lotus whitelotus.org Golden Door goldendoor.com Solage solage.aubergeresorts.com Spa Terra meritagecollection.com/ meritageresort/ napa-valley-spa-resorts 1440 Multiversity 1440.org

FRANKIE FRANEKEY/KABUKI HOT SPRINGS & SPA

pool and an optional snooze on one of their

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SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA Epicenter of cultural treasures, scenic beauty and iconic attractions BY LAURA DEL ROSSO TOP CITIES San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, San Jose, Napa, Sonoma, Palo Alto, Santa Clara, Santa Rosa, Sausalito, Healdsburg INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 12 miles (19 km) from downtown San Francisco; Oakland International Airport (OAK), 8 miles (13 km) from downtown Oakland; San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) from downtown San Jose

he San Francisco Bay Area never disappoints visitors: the majestic towers of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco skyline and other cities of culture and great dining, ancient red-

wood groves, expansive vineyards and a coastline of rocky cliﬀs and sandy beaches. Combine those with a Mediterranean climate and a dynamic environment of high-tech entrepreneurs and it’s no wonder the San Francisco Bay Area encourages a seductive, can-do way of life that revolves around the high energy of its residents and the great out-

visitoakland.org sanjose.org visitnapavalley.com sonomavalley.com santacruzca.org visitmarin.org

POPULATION 7.35 million

doors at its doorstep. The hub of the Bay Area is San Francisco, a city of diverse neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and a welcoming spirit of tolerance in the most European of American cities.

North Bay: Marin, Sonoma & Napa Across the Golden Gate to the north lies Marin County, one of the most beautiful and aﬄuent areas of the U.S. Sausalito, Tiburon and Mill Valley are among its many inviting towns. The mountain bike was invented here to maneuver the twisty trails on Mount Tamalpais. On the Marin coast, one ruggedly gorgeous beach follows another, including along spectacular Point Reyes National Seashore. Also in the North Bay, Sonoma and Napa counties are home to acres of vineyards and dozens of wineries producing some of the world’s

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

74 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

ﬁnest wines. Among the small towns full of boutiques, shops and tasting rooms is the Napa Valley hamlet of Yountville, a foodie dining mecca, with several Michelin-starred restaurants, and, a bit north, the

SUPAVADEE BUTRADEE/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES sftravel.com visitberkeley.com santaclara.org sonomacounty.com healdsburg.com smccvb.com

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GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE in San Francisco, opposite.

MUST

» spa town of Calistoga. October 2017

arts, with a vibrant cultural scene and

wildﬁres were devastating to parts of

attractions such as San Jose’s Museum

the wine country, but fewer than 10 of

of Art and its Tech Museum, which pays

the region’s 1,200 wineries were

homage to the valley’s innovative spirit.

aﬀected. Napa and Sonoma counties

Mountain View’s Castro Street and Palo

are open and as welcoming as ever to

Alto’s University Avenue are hopping,

visitors.

and San Jose’s booming downtown and Santana Row shopping and dining

South Bay: Silicon Valley, San Mateo County & Santa Cruz

center are bustling.

In Palo Alto, on the peninsula south of

coastline still shows its traditional

San Francisco, lies the bucolic campus

ﬁshing and agricultural roots. It’s

of Stanford University, one of the

within a short drive of major popula-

country’s leading universities. Silicon

tion centers yet a world away, with its

Valley—home of Apple, Facebook,

sprawling artichoke ﬁelds and miles of

Google, Intel and other high-tech power

pristine beaches. Santa Cruz County to

houses—has emerged as a center for the

the south oﬀers visitors a wealth of

Neighboring San Mateo County’s

DRIVE

» TOUR Start by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge driving north, stopping in SAUSALITO. Head northwest to MOUNT

TAMALPAIS STATE PARK and take the steep, twisting road to the Pantoll Ranger Station and drive the PANORAMIC

HIGHWAY for ocean, city and mountain views. Drive to

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT for a short walk

SEE, DO

SAN FRANCISCO TOP SIGHTS Fisherman’s Wharf and Chinatown offer even more reasons to visit. A redo has made part of the wharf more pedestrian-friendly and visitors now can buy fish straight from the boats. The Cartoon Art Museum opened in late 2017 just east of the re-invigorated Ghirardelli Square, home to the San Francisco Brewing Co., which made its debut in 2018. Meanwhile, on the North Beach edge of Chinatown, the new China Live complex offers an amazing variety of Chinese food choices. › sftravel.com

EAST BAY EXPLORATION Oakland’s Uptown, Temescal and Piedmont Avenue neighborhoods are newly hip, filled with trendy restaurants, including Commis, which received two Michelin stars in 2017. The neighboring university town of Berkeley also offers much to discover, including the UC Berkeley campus, the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive. The outdoors beckons at 2,000acre Tilden Park, which has a lovely botanical garden and steam train that children adore. › visitberkeley.com

SONOMA SOJOURN Sonoma County’s vineyard-covered landscape was largely undamaged by the October 2017 wildﬁres. Dozens of wine-tasting rooms are open, including in the Russian River appellation, where visitors stroll among the shops of Sebastopol, Graton and Forestville and pick up picnic goodies for alfresco dining while sampling the county’s famous Pinot Noirs and other varietals. › sonomacounty.com

ICONIC HIGH TECH Silicon Valley giants open parts of their headquarters to visitors. Intel oﬀers a Tech Museum and Apple’s new futuristic campus includes a glass-walled visitor center. Facebook’s Menlo Park campus hosts a Saturday farmers market and features a thumbs-up (“like”) sign at 1 Hacker Way, a popular spot for selﬁes. Grab a bite along nearby Palo Alto’s University Avenue where Silicon Valley’s elite dine. › smccvb.com, santaclara.org

among redwoods. Head back toward Sausalito and Highway 101 and drive north to the wine country town of SONOMA. Explore its shady plaza, surrounded by shops, wine tasting rooms and historic sites. From Sonoma, it’s a short drive to California’s other major wine region, Napa Valley, and the city of NAPA.

EXPLORE THE OUTDOORS Mount Tamalpais and the coast of Marin County just north of the Golden Gate Bridge are a spectacular playground for hikers, bikers and anyone who enjoys the outdoors. Mount Tam aﬀords stunning views and Muir Woods National Monument on its western ﬂank wows visitors with its towering redwood grove. Oceanfront towns Stinson Beach and Bolinas have a laid-back vibe that is part of their charm. › visitmarin.org

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INSIDER’S

» TIP

attractions, including parks and wineries

rants oﬀering an astonishing variety of

in its redwood-covered mountain range,

cuisines, fascinating neighborhoods, parks,

and laid-back beaches where surfers polish

Victorian-era houses and world-class

their technique.

museums and cultural activities.

East Bay: Berkeley & Oakland

the waterfront Embarcadero, Fisherman’s

The Bay Area’s renowned food can be sampled best at FARMERS

MARKETS and food truck gatherings.

The city is easy to explore on foot, with On the eastern side of the bay lies the col-

Wharf, Chinatown and Union Square (the

SAN FRANCISCO’S FERRY BUILDING

lege town of Berkeley, with its history of

largest shopping area in the western U.S.)

is arguably the area’s top market.

political idealism, University of California

all within a short walk of each other. Col-

Other awesome markets are held in

academic prestige and coﬀeehouse intel-

orful vintage streetcars rumble down the

Berkeley, Healdsburg, Mountain

lectualism. Berkeley is almost synonymous

Embarcadero and Market Street, con-

View and at Marin Civic Center.

with Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse and the

necting to public transportation that

FOOD TRUCKS serve up a mouth-

movement to organic, local and seasonal

carries visitors to the city’s many diverse

watering array of choices all around

food. Berkeley’s larger neighbor, Oakland,

neighborhoods and to Golden Gate Park,

the bay, including Fridays at the

is a culturally diverse city with vibrant

the large greenbelt that extends to the

Oakland Museum of California and

neighborhoods, a booming downtown and

Paciﬁc Ocean.

Sundays at San Francisco’s Presidio,

lovely Lake Merritt, whose three-mile path

with spectacular views of the

draws joggers and walkers.

Golden Gate Bridge.

SAN JOSE CITY HALL, below; California Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, opposite.

The region’s other major cities are San Jose, where revitalization has brought an urban vibe, restaurants and museums

City & Town

downtown, and Oakland, which attracts

Even though it was surpassed in population

visitors with the Museum of California,

by San Jose long ago, San Francisco remains

bay-front Jack London Square and a trendy

the region’s cultural hub. The city draws

dining scene. Its college town neighbor,

more than 25 million travelers each year to

Berkeley, is home to the striking Berkeley

its dense 49 square miles containing its

Art Museum and Paciﬁc Film Archive.

famously steep hills, thousands of restau-

The Great Outdoors One of the world’s largest urban parks— the Golden Gate National Recreation Area—stretches over 60 miles of Bay Area coastline. The area encompasses beaches, historic sites, biking and hiking trails and vast open spaces to savor the Bay Area’s varied natural beauty. Among the highlights are the majestic Marin Headlands and San Francisco’s Presidio and Crissy Field, a popular walking area and restored wetlands that also draws kite boarders to the white-capped waters at the Golden Gate. Rolling green hillsides dotted with California golden poppies make spring an especially ideal time to explore Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods in Marin County. Point Reyes National Seashore’s beautiful coastal terrain contains an abundance of wildlife, including migrating

76 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

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west of Silicon Valley and San Jose, are vast

museums, including the recently expanded

open space preserves, including Cali-

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, the

fornia’s oldest state park, Big Basin

Asian Art Museum, the de Young Museum

Redwoods, established in 1902.

and California Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park. In Oakland, there’s the

shorebirds and ducks, whales that are easily

Heritage & Culture

Museum of California that celebrates the

Early Mexican and Spanish explorers and

state. The Cantor Arts Center at Stanford

settlers in the Bay Area left their mark,

has a large collection of Rodin sculptures.

mostly in place names but also in historic

A lively art scene is found throughout the

buildings from that era. San Francisco’s

Bay Area, home of the San Francisco Sym-

Mission Dolores, established in 1776, is the

phony, ballet, opera and dozens of theater

oldest building in San Francisco and the

and dance companies.

oldest intact original Mission in California.

Diverse cultural inﬂuences thrive in

The patchwork design of its beamed ceil-

pockets spread throughout the region,

ings resembles local Native American

including many from Asia: Japantown and

basket weaving. Other old missions are

Chinatown in San Francisco, another Chi-

found elsewhere in the Bay Area: in

natown in Oakland and Vietnamese and

Sonoma, San Rafael, Santa Clara, San Jose

Southeast Asian communities in San Jose

and Santa Cruz.

and neighboring cities. Mexican and other

seen oﬀ the coast in migration season (mid

Vestiges of San Francisco’s colorful past,

Latin American inﬂuences can be found

January to mid March) and a herd of tule elk.

when the 1849 Gold Rush catapulted it from

throughout, particularly in San Francisco’s

There also is no lack of wide-open

a hamlet to a large city almost overnight,

Mission district, while Italian immigrants

spaces in the East Bay, where the regional

can still be seen in thousands of 19th-cen-

left their indelible mark in San Francisco’s

park district includes 65 parks covering

tury Victorians and quaint old quarters

North Beach and Sonoma and Napa wine-

113,000 acres in Alameda and Contra Costa

such as Alamo Square and Jackson Square.

growing areas.

counties. In the Santa Cruz mountains, just

The Bay Area is home to world-class

Family Fun

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019

Spend a day at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, a century-old amusement park famous for The Giant Dipper, a 1920s-era roller coaster. Families also enjoy the San

CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Feb. 23, San Francisco chineseparade.com

Mateo County coast, particularly Half Moon

CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April 13-21, San Francisco nccbf.org

Bay’s mid-October festival that features

SILICON VALLEY A LA CARTE & ART FESTIVAL, May 4-5, Mountain View alacarte.miramarevents.com

pumpkin carving and pie-eating contests. thrills visitors with the most water rides in

CARNAVAL May 25-26, San Francisco carnavalsanfrancisco.org

Northern California.

STERN GROVE FESTIVAL Sundays, mid June-mid August, San Francisco sterngrove.org

CITYPASS. OPPOSITE: SAN JOSE CVB

Santa Clara’s Great America theme park

BAY TO BREAKERS May 19, San Francisco baytobreakers.com

San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf and

GAY PRIDE WEEKEND June 29-30, San Francisco sfpride.org

Pier 39 are lined with shops, restaurants,

KITE FESTIVAL July 27-28, Berkeley highlinekites.com

street performers and even a colony of sea

ART FESTIVAL Aug. 31-Sept. 2, Sausalito sausalitoartfestival.org

lions that wows crowds. The pier also oﬀers

HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Oct. 4-6, San Francisco hardlystrictlybluegrass.com ART & PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Oct. 19-20, Half Moon Bay pumpkinfest.miramarevents.com UNION SQUARE TREE LIGHTING Nov. 29, San Francisco macys.com FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Nov. 29, Yountville yountville.com

an antique carousel and the Aquarium of the Bay, with more than 20,000 marine animals. Over in Golden Gate Park, the California Academy of Sciences draws families with its penguin exhibit, a walk-through rain forest and aquarium with a live coral reef tank.

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BERKELEY Superb dining and performing arts thrive in this celebrated university city

SHOP, » DINE, SEE A PLAY Berkeley Visitor Information visitberkeley.com

BERKELEY FROM THE TOP of Sather Tower, a.k.a. the Campanile, above; summer street scene on Telegraph Avenue, below.

WORLD-FAMOUS as a historic center of free speech and 1960s counter-culture, Berkeley, on the eastern shores of San Francisco Bay, has morphed into a foodie and arts destination. But it’s still Berkeley, proudly offbeat, quirky and fun to visit, especially now. The Downtown Arts District on Addison Street showcases the Aurora Theatre Company and the nationally known Berkeley Repertory Theatre. The Freight & Salvage Coffeehouse—which is both a performance venue and folk-music learning center—has recently presented the likes of Cowboy Junkies, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Booker T. Jones, Richie Furay and Cape Verde singer Maria de Barros. Two major venues opened downtown in 2016: the 83,000-square-foot Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive (BAMPFA) at 2155 Center Street near the downtown Berkeley BART station. The station and surrounding BART Plaza returned with a new look in late 2018 after a $13 million renovation. The striking results include a Berkeley LIVE performance stage, foodie stalls with treats from Berkeley Farmers’ Market and 1951 Coffee and a visitor information kiosk. A staffed visitor information center is just a block away at 2030 Addison Street. Another downtown draw, at 2036 University Avenue, just west of Shattuck Avenue, is the 102-year-old UC Theatre, a cinema-turnedmusic space, with its superb, made-in -Berkeley Meyer Sound System. North Berkeley, along and near Shattuck is the city’s Gourmet Ghetto, with its jewel in the crown, Chez Panisse, founded by the doyenne of fresh, local, seasonal California cuisine, Alice Waters. The 1966 original Peet’s Coffee is right nearby. Other favorites include the Cheese Board cheese shop/bakery and the bakeshop

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Cupcakin’, which opened this year in the old home of the long-gone but fondly remembered Virginia Bakery. Cupcakin’s highlights include sweet potato cupcakes and vegan vanilla cranberry cupcakes. Hey, it’s Berkeley. One-of-a-kind shopping and dining abounds on Fourth Street, in West Berkeley. Traditionally centered north of University Avenue, Fourth Street businesses are expanding their offerings south of University, too. Fourth Street’s standouts include the designer eyewear shop Rims & Goggles and the Japanese handmade stationery and wrapping paper shop Miki’s Paper. Also on Fourth, freshly sourced, innovative Mexican cuisine is featured at Tacubaya, which recently expanded into larger quarters. Gorgeous brown-shingle wooden homes and public buildings by celebrated architects Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morgan—who adapted Arts and Crafts design to form the Bay Region style in the early 20th century—enrich the city. Maybeck’s serene 1910 First Church of Christ, Scientist, just east of Telegraph Avenue and south of the UC Berkeley campus, is an architectural hymn to silence. On campus, the circa 1903 Greek Theatre presents headliners in its outdoor amphitheater, while Cal Performances brings international acts indoors to 2,700-seat Zellerbach Hall. You can toast the artists and debate the true meaning of art in a plentitude of craft microbreweries and urban winery tasting rooms near campus and beyond. Among the urban winemakers are Urbano Cellars and purveyors of unfiltered, minimally processed natural wines Donkey & Goat. Downtown favorite Triple Rock, dating to 1986, recently expanded its space by 50 percent for the inhouse production of quaffable brews.

VISIT BERKELEY

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

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HEALDSBURG Sonoma’s sophisticated, relaxed, wine country town BY MARCY GORDON

Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau healdsburg.com

HEALDSBURG’S PLAZA, above; summer vineyard, below.

homes, many in use as B&Bs. Surrounded by

deﬁning feature of Healdsburg is its

vineyards, and located just 70 miles north of

beloved historic plaza designed by Harmon

San Francisco oﬀ Highway 101, Healdsburg is

Heald. Complete with copper-topped

the ideal home base from which to explore

gazebo and shaded by towering redwoods

the world-renowned wine appellations of

and date palms, the plaza is grand in scale

Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Dry Creek Valley

but has an intimate, accessible feel. One of

and Russian River Valley. Wine, of course, is

the liveliest town squares in Sonoma wine

a main focus of the town with more than 30

country, it retains the charm of a small

tasting rooms and wineries within walking

community, surrounded by a vibrant and

distance of its center. Enjoy the bounty of locally sourced

diverse retail scene. The plaza plays host to numerous events

ingredients and regional wines in a range

including the highly regarded Healdsburg

of dining experiences, from casual cafés to

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Jazz Festival, celebrating its 21 anniversary

elite

this year. Held in early June, it takes place

County’s ﬁrst Michelin 3 star rated estab-

restaurants

including

Sonoma

in various venues and locations around

lishment, Single Thread. Although most

town. On Tuesday evenings throughout the

famous for its wine, Healdsburg also has a

summer months, the plaza transforms into

lively craft beer scene and artisan distill-

an outdoor community living room where

eries producing small batch spirits.

locals and visitors gather for a free concert

Beyond the city center, the Russian River

series. The summer also oﬀers Art After

and peaceful stands of ancient redwoods

Dark on the last Friday of each month.

are the focal point for hiking and canoeing,

From the plaza it’s a leisurely stroll to the

and the mostly ﬂat back roads that wind

many wine-tasting rooms, artisan bakeries,

through the vineyard valleys make the area

coﬀee spots, cheese shops, art galleries, book-

a world-class bicycling destination.

shops and boutiques oﬀering clothing, house

Sophisticated, yet rustic, Healdsburg,

wares and inspired one-of-a-kind gifts. Or

with its agrarian roots, delivers small town

venture a few blocks oﬀ Center Street to see

charm and a wine country lifestyle that’s

scores of colorful, well-preserved historic

both laid-back and luxurious.

BOURNE PHOTOGRAPHY

TASTE, BROWSE, » DINE, EXPLORE

DATING FROM 1857, the centerpiece and

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SANTA CLARA NFL and theme park fun, history and high-tech in Silicon Valley city BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

MUSEUM Santa Clara Visitor Information santaclara.org

LEVI’S STADIUM, home of the San Francisco 49ers, above; fun at the Intel Museum, below.

the air and then drops them into a 360degree loop. When visiting Santa Clara, you can’t miss learning about Silicon Valley. At the Intel Museum, fascinating exhibits trace the computer industry and how the valley’s brilliant engineers dramatically changed society.

Theme Park Fun

century buildings. When it’s time to kick back, you’ll ﬁnd a range of restaurants and high-end boutiques such as Versace, Cartier and Armani at the Westﬁeld Valley Fair, home to some of Silicon Valley’s most enticing upscale shopping.

Nearby, California’s Great America, a 100acre combination theme and water park, oﬀers a delightful Peanuts-inspired area for children and hair-raising experiences for thrill-seekers. Among the rides is Patriot, a roller coaster that whips riders 91 feet into

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A Sense of History For a longer historical perspective, stroll the gardens on the lovely campus at Santa Clara University, whose mission was founded in 1777. The current church was built in 1925 but holds vestiges from the past, including a life-size cruciﬁx brought from Mexico in 1802. Also on campus, the university’s de Saisset Art Museum houses a signiﬁcant California history collection and art by Chagall and Picasso. For more local history, check out the South Bay Historical Society housed in an 1863 train station, the Santa Clara Historic Museum and the Harris-Lass House Museum, both located in charming 19th-

SANTACLARA.ORG

DINE, SHOP,

» TOUR A

SANTA CLARA lies in the heart of tech capital Silicon Valley, an area ﬁrmly focused on the future, but with a long history that stretches back to the beginnings of California. The city recently dedicated funds to revive its historic downtown next to Santa Clara University, which was founded in 1851 and is the oldest college in the state. That’s not the only development on tap in Santa Clara. Plans have been approved for City Place, a massive project near Levi’s Stadium expected to transform the area into a lively destination ﬁlled with hotels, dining and nightlife. It was the opening of Levi’s Stadium in 2014 that put Santa Clara in the national spotlight. The 69,900-seat stadium is home to the San Francisco 49ers and contains the 49ers Museum, which is open year-round and celebrates the team in 11 galleries and interactive exhibits that trace NFL history and Super Bowl championships. Levi’s is also a venue for major sporting events and concerts, including the Rolling Stones scheduled to rock the park on May 15.

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CENTRAL COAST Where Californians really go to relax

TOP CITIES Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove, Salinas, Gilroy, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Morro Bay, Cambria, Ventura, Lompoc, Solvang, Buellton, Pismo Beach, Santa Maria, Camarillo, Oxnard, Port Hueneme INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 62 miles (100 km) from Santa Cruz; 101 miles (163 km) from Monterey; Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 98 miles (158 km) from Santa Barbara; 192 miles (309 km) from San Luis Obispo

outh of the San Francisco Bay Area, the coastal region from Santa Cruz through San Luis Obispo has views that rival the rest of the state. Within earshot of the crashing waves of the

Paciﬁc Ocean, this is where many Californians vacation, so it’s the ideal place to slow down and adopt an appreciation of the great outdoors and a laid-back lifestyle. The three largest population centers of the Central Coast are

seemonterey.com pacificgrove.org gilroywelcomecenter.org santabarbaraca.com morrobay.org visitventuraca.com

Santa Cruz, the Monterey Peninsula and Santa Barbara. In historic Monterey, small-town Pacific Grove and fashionable artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are beautiful beaches, performing and fine arts venues, outdoor pursuits, stylish shops, epicurean delights and an inland region known for wine and agriculture. Much of the same can be said of funky Santa Cruz, but away from the redwoods, the university town resembles a beachside playground, with its historic boardwalk and many surf spots. Santa Barbara lures travelers with its white Spanish-style buildings, redtiled roofs, vast beaches, plenty of fine arts venues, bright

POPULATION 2,242,000

boutiques, outdoor adventures, culinary tastes and an inland region (the Santa Ynez Valley, featured in the movie Sideways) known for wine and Santa Maria-style barbecue. CENTRAL COAST

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Even though the Central Coast region’s main highlight is indeed, its coast, the varied geography and moderate climate ensure that

VISIT CARMEL. OPPOSITE: BRIAN BAER

TOURISM WEBSITES santacruzca.org carmelcalifornia.com cityofsalinas.org/visitors sanluisobispocounty.com travelpaso.com visitcambriaca.com venturacountycoast.com highway1discoveryroute.com solvangusa.com visitbuellton.com santamariavalley.com classiccalifornia.com

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

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there are plenty of treats for visitors to

City & Town

enjoy. Whether your preference is digging

Downtown Santa Cruz lies between the

for clams, surﬁng the perfect wave,

city’s vibrant beach attractions and the

strolling small village streets, sampling

redwood-rich mountains, where the Uni-

fresh regional cuisine and world-famous

versity of California at Santa Cruz is

wines, or lazing on the beach and

perched among groves of the huge trees.

watching the changing tide, it’s all right

Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey is steps

here on the Central Coast—and there’s

from the city’s historic buildings that date

enough for everyone.

from the 18th and 19th centuries—before

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019

MUST

SEE, DO

California Origins Visit Mission Santa Barbara, established in 1786 and known as “Queen of the Missions.” It was the 10th of 21 California Missions to be founded by the Spanish Franciscans.

›

santabarbaramission.org

» Wild Coast Cruise Highway 1 along the majestic SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Jan. 30-Feb. 9, Santa Barbara sbiﬀ.org AT&T PEBBLE BEACH NATIONAL PRO-AM Feb. 4-10, Pebble Beach attpbgolf.com SANTA BARBARA RESTAURANT WEEK Feb. 22-March 3, Santa Barbara sbrestaurantweeks.com JAZZ BASH BY THE BAY March 1-3, Monterey jazzbashmonterey.com SAN LUIS OBISPO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL March 12-17, San Luis Obispo sloﬁlmfest.org

Big Sur coast, where the sky touches the sea.

›

bigsurcalifornia.org

American Riviera Step oﬀ Stearns Wharf in Santa Barbara and stroll along the miles of beaches studded with palm trees.

›

santabarbaraca.com

STEINBECK FESTIVAL May 3-5, Salinas steinbeck.org

Monterey’s Historic District Find Old Monterey’s adobes and gardens from the Spanish and Mexican eras, including the site of California’s ﬁrst Constitutional Convention, scattered near Fisherman’s Wharf.

PASO ROBLES WINE FESTIVAL May 16-19, Paso Robles pasowine.com/events/winefest

›

CALIFORNIA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL May 18-19, Oxnard strawberry-fest.org

TASTE OF SOLVANG March 13-17, Solvang solvangusa.com PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE April 11-14, Pebble Beach pbfw.com

I MADONNARI May 25-27, Santa Barbara imadonnarifestival.com LOS OLIVOS JAZZ & OLIVE FESTIVAL June 8, Los Olivos jazzandolivefestival.org SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION June 21-23, Santa Barbara solsticeparade.com

seemonterey.com

Nine Sisters Stretching between Morro Bay and San Luis Obispo, the craggy peaks of the Nine Sisters provide beautiful vistas in the Central Coast. Get up close to one of them, Morro Rock, in Morro Bay.

›

morrobay.org

SAN BENITO COUNTY SADDLE HORSE SHOW & RODEO June 28-30, Hollister sanbenitocountyrodeo.com CARMEL BACH FESTIVAL July 13-27, Carmel bachfestival.org CALIFORNIA WINE FESTIVAL July 19-20, Santa Barbara californiawinefestival.com FEAST OF LANTERNS July 19-27, Pacific Grove feast-of-lanterns.org OLD SPANISH DAYS FIESTA July 31-Aug. 4, Santa Barbara oldspanishdays-fiesta.org PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Aug. 18, Pebble Beach pebblebeachconcours.net MONTEREY JAZZ FESTIVAL Sept. 20-22, Monterey montereyjazzfestival.org CARMEL ART FESTIVAL Sept. 28-29, Carmel carmelartfestival.org GOLETA LEMON FESTIVAL Sept. 28-29, Goleta lemonfestival.com FIRST NIGHT MONTEREY Dec. 31, Monterey firstnightmonterey.org

CARMEL BEACH at sunset, opposite; horseback riding on the beach at Oceano, right.

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CAPITOLA, in Santa Cruz County, is a popular beach town on Monterey Bay, left; California State University Channel Islands, bottom.

Drive in Pebble Beach winds through forest and along the Paciﬁc coastline as it skirts exclusive golf courses and resorts. South of Carmel, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve has long been considered the “crown jewel” of the California State Park system. The eerie-looking monoliths of Pinnacles California was part of the United States. The

back Cayucos is an old-school beach retreat

hikers interested in the added beneﬁts of

Dalí17 museum showcases the second-

with a surf break and ﬁshing pier near the

the explosion of colorful spring wild-

largest collection of works by Salvador Dalí

main drag. Morro Bay’s landmark, an

ﬂowers and soaring California condors in

in the United States. Once a resident of

ancient volcanic peak emerging from the

the park. In Big Sur, where rocky cliﬀs drop

Monterey, Dalí contributed greatly to the

ocean ﬂoor, stands at the entrance to a

into the Paciﬁc Ocean and cypress trees

region’s talented artist community. Made

beautiful estuary. Between the ocean and

twist in the coastal wind, nature lovers can

famous by John Steinbeck’s eponymous

the Santa Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara is

walk along the beach or hike deep into red-

novel, Cannery Row has morphed from a

often called the “American Riviera” because

wood forests, both places where waterfalls

ﬁshing center to a bustling street with

of its Mediterranean climate and red-roofed

spring to life.

shops and ocean-view restaurants. Stein-

buildings. Head inland to artist enclave Ojai

Hike to the top of Bishop Peak, the tallest

beck’s

to unwind and take in the “pink moment”

of the Nine Sisters, a chain of volcanic

sunsets—the color of cotton candy.

peaks. Take advantage of some sweet surf

hometown,

Salinas,

working-class agricultural city, known as

spots and catch the perfect wave. Head out

the “Salad Bowl of the World.” Carmel, a freethinker’s retreat born as an artist village,

The Great Outdoors

from Santa Barbara on a whale watching

is home to stylish shops, exquisite dining

While well-known urban areas dot this

tour to see some of the largest mammals in

and top-notch art.

region, there’s more than enough wide-

the Paciﬁc Ocean. On the Carrizo Plain, con-

South of Big Sur, the coastline is dotted

open space for fans of the outdoors. Take a

sidered the largest single native grassland

with a necklace of small beach towns. Cam-

whale watching boat tour in Monterey Bay,

in the state, it’s possible to see surface frac-

bria’s galleries and antique shops perch on

where you can spot migrating gray, hump-

tures of the San Andreas Fault, which puts

pine-forested hills above the ocean. Laid-

back and blue whales. Seventeen-Mile

man/nature cohabitation in perspective.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The best views of some spectacular surf moves are from the cliffs overlooking Steamer Lane, near THE SANTA CRUZ SURFING MUSEUM. Grab a spot by the railing to watch top-notch surfers get some sweet rides, and then head on in to the museum to see the best in Santa Cruz surfing history. santacruzsurfingmuseum.org

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AMYANDHERCAMERA; VENTURA COUNTY COAST. OPPOSITE: MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM

National Park beckon to rock climbers and

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The Los Padres National Forest stretches across the scenic Coast and Transverse ranges, and oﬀers a wealth of opportunities for ﬁshing, hiking, camping and bicycling. Kayak among tide pools and kelp forests where sea otters live in Morro Bay, or just amble along miles of scenic beaches, stop when you want to, and dig your toes in the sand.

Heritage & Culture Many place names on the Central Coast remain from Native American tribes, as well as from Spanish and Mexican settlers. The California missions and other well-preserved buildings still exist from before 1850, when California became a state. The Central Coast’s inland region has a wealth of land for agriculture—from the salad bowl to wine to olives—but farmers here are just as comfort-

THE MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM delights children of all ages, above.

able taking a quick trip to the wide, sandy beaches during breaks from the harvest.

Family Fun The Central Coast is a wonderland for fami-

DRIVE

» TOUR

lies, with historic sites, accessible beaches and outdoor space, and water activities. See

Get more than a glimpse of

underwater without diving at the Monterey

the Central Coast by driving

Bay Aquarium, or be a kid again at the Santa

south of Big Sur on

Cruz Beach Boardwalk. Inland, get a look at

HIGHWAY 1 past the small

California’s pre-statehood past and follow

beach towns of CAMBRIA,

the California Missions Trail along Highway

MORRO BAY and PISMO

101—always a good lesson for grade-

BEACH. Be sure to stop

schoolers and adults alike. South through Big

regularly to sample local

Sur, the variety of hiking paths can lead you

delicacies, whether caught

to a pink-sand beach or a seaside waterfall.

from oceanside piers or

View underwater life on a semi-submersible tour in Morro Bay. Discover how the ocean has shaped the history of the Central Coast at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. Go camping in the Channel Islands or Los Padres National Forest. Even picking your own berries at a local farm is

made by hand in beachtown bakeries. The highway cuts inland for a short jog after San Luis Obispo, but pops back to the beach before approaching the Santa Ynez Mountains and posh SANTA BARBARA.

far more fun when you can smell the ocean air and not hear the sounds of traﬃc.

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VENTURA COUNTY COAST Through the four seasons

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

WINE, DINE, » RIDE, INDULGE!

SETTLE IN FOR A FULL YEAR with the

scattered throughout the area, there’s

string of four main cities located between

always a reason to celebrate the season.

Santa Barbara and Los Angeles—Camarillo, Oxnard, Port Hueneme and Ventura. The

Spring

Ventura County Coast Visitor Information

Ventura County Coast oﬀers plenty to do,

For many, a basket full of plump strawber-

from signature seasonal events to great

ries is an essential symbol of spring. That’s

venturacountycoast.com

ways to get outdoors and ﬁrst-rate family

a good reason to head to the California

adventures. With hotels and restaurants

Strawberry Festival (May 18-19) in Oxnard for some berry bliss with more than 50 food booths

brimming

with

treats

smoothies, strawberry beer, strawberry shortcake and chocolate-dipped strawberries. If the berries wake your inner farmer, visit the certiﬁed organic McGrath Family Farm in Camarillo, where you can shop for more spring produce, or pick your own. Bring the family to the Channel Islands Maritime Museum in Oxnard for its ﬁne models and artifacts—and don’t forget to gaze out the museum windows, which look out over the harbor’s sailboats. Make your home base the Ventura Beach Marriott, conveniently located within easy reach of the

88 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

VENTURA COUNTY COAST

collection of maritime paintings, ship

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HIKING IN CHANNEL ISLANDS National Park, opposite top; Ventura County Fair at Seaside Park, Ventura, opposite bottom; sampling the wares at the California Strawberry Festival in Oxnard, right; Embassy Suites by Hilton Mandalay Beach Resort in Oxnard, below.

region’s attractions, and duck into nearby Paradise Pantry for a bite of seasonal dishes featuring local farm ﬁnds.

Summer The long days of summer are best spent at the Ventura County Fair (July 31-August 11). The “county fair with ocean air” is a blend of traditional fair events—like carnival rides, agriculture competitions and cute livestock—with art exhibits, more food than you can possibly eat, and weekend ﬁreworks. Voyage from either the Ventura or Oxnard harbor to visit Channel Islands National Park, where the “Galapagos of North America” is revered for its endemic plants and plentiful wildlife. Ventura Harbor Village is an ideal place from which to launch water adventures (by kayak, board or boat) and land delights (like the carousel, arcade games and numerous shops and restaurants). Lay your head at the Crowne Plaza Ventura Beach for front-row beach

Islands Adventure Company, where you can

down Main Street surrounded by live enter-

views, as it’s right on the beach and just two

dip your toes in the water and see the

tainment and beautiful holiday lighting,

blocks from historic downtown Ventura.

Paciﬁc from a diﬀerent vantage point. Let

and get the jump on your gift shopping. If a

Head to Lure Fish House to satisfy those

the whole family come along on a Gondola

cruise is on your wish list, check it oﬀ by

beach town seafood cravings.

Paradiso ride through the Channel Islands

taking an Island Packers whale watching

Harbor in a Venetian gondola. Stay in a

cruise to spy California gray whales on their

Autumn

sweet suite on the beach at the Embassy

annual migration. Some people just love to

Fall is time for bananas and farming on the

Suites by Hilton Mandalay Beach Resort in

shop, though, and kids often prefer to show

Ventura County Coast. First is the Port

Oxnard, and wander over to the Waterside

you exactly what they want. Give them an

Hueneme Banana Festival (September 28),

Restaurant & Wine Bar to watch the sun go

option to do just that at the Camarillo Pre-

where you can delight in banana treats and

down.

mium Outlets, and pick out something for yourself for the trouble. Just in case you

learn about the port. Next, Ventura County Farm Day (November 2) embraces farmers

Winter

decide to go back for more, stay in the Mar-

and ranchers, and shows you where your

Ring in the winter holiday season at the

riott Residence Inn Camarillo, and settle

food comes from, among the more than 100

Ventura Winter Wine Walk & Holiday Street

down for a hearty winter meal at nearby

types of crops in the region. Get closer to

Fair (December 7), where revelers have the

Ottavio’s Italian Restaurant to keep the fes-

the ocean on a sea kayak tour with Channel

chance to sample wine and beer, stroll

tivities going strong.

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PISMO BEACH Central California’s classic beach town

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

BEACHCOMB, » EXPLORE, PLAY, WINE & DINE! Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau

MIDWAY BETWEEN San Francisco and

beauty and bounty of land and sea. Old

Los Angeles on California’s Central Coast,

favorites always win, but special new spots

Pismo Beach is so beloved that residents of

give

both Northern and Southern California

Craftsman-style Inn at the Pier is a new

claim it. Does your ideal California beach

104-room oceanfront hotel, just steps from

town come complete with a sandy strand

the pier and boardwalk, where you can

and wooden pier? That’s just what you get

study the moods of the ocean and play on

with Pismo Beach.

the beach. Willow Kitchen & Cocktails

visitors

wealth

choices.

serves American classics like burgers and

classiccalifornia.com Link to the Coast

fresh ﬁsh tacos, but the local wines and

The optimal beginning to a visit to this Cal-

craft beers add great tastes to the menu.

ifornia beach town is to stroll on the Pismo

Start the day with a jolt from Scorpion Bay

Beach Pier, allowing a peek at the ocean and

Coﬀee Co., where the coﬀee and pastries

the beach below. When the current pier was

wake you up and keep you going for hours.

built in 1924, it looked a little diﬀerent than THE PIER in Pismo Beach, above; wine tasting at Pismo Beach, below.

today, having adopted its four-diamond

Pismo’s Great Outdoors

layout after storm damage in 1983. At 1,200

Beaches serve as Pismo Beach’s front yard.

feet long, it’s the 18 longest pier in Cali-

It doesn’t matter whether you’re an intrepid

fornia. It had been closed since early 2017

adventurer or a lover of leisure—the sandy

for an $8.7-million renovation project, but

shores along the Paciﬁc Coast are available

recently reopened with new sections, yet

for nearly any level of adrenaline or relax-

the same old beauty and romance of the Cal-

ation. The annual Pismo Beach Open is on

ifornia coastline. You can spend nearly

the Men’s and Women’s World Surf League

every moment of the day here and be happy,

schedule in the fall, when you can watch

but be sure to come around for sunset.

great surfers while kicking back in the sand.

90 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

New Places to Stay and Eat

beautiful Chapman Estate is now open to

One of the beneﬁts of its Central California

the public, and it’s also available for private

location are Pismo Beach’s hotels and

events and weddings so all can enjoy its

restaurants that can take advantage of the

serene spaces.

PISMO BEACH CVB

With breathtaking views of the Paciﬁc, the

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MORRO BAY Under-the-radar beach town retreat BY JILL K. ROBINSON

COASTAL CALIFORNIA isn’t only about

outdoor adventure including waterbased

PADDLE, HIKE, » BIRDWATCH, DINE

bustling seaside villages and crowded

sports that connect you with wildlife.

beaches. Morro Bay is an unspoiled slice of

Venture out in a kayak or stand-up pad-

the state, with enough coastal activities to let

dleboard, head out to sea to spy whales

visitors of all ages experience the outdoor

and other marine mammals, or stay

Morro Bay Visitor Information

adventure of their choice, whether dipping

closer to shore in the Morro Bay National

their toe in to try water sports, or diving all

Estuary Preserve and its 800-acre wetland

morrobay.org

the way in on hiking and biking excursions.

with salt marshes and mudflats—home to

This quaint California seaside town will let

more than 250 species of land, sea and

you do it all without having to ﬁght crowds.

shore birds, especially during winter months. But lovers of the land have

92 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

things to do too, from miles and miles of

Rising 576 feet from the ocean ﬂoor, Morro

hiking trails to biking trails for a variety

Rock, an ancient volcanic peak and Morro

of skill levels all within 10 miles of town,

Bay’s landmark, stands at the entrance to a

whether you prefer your ride to be a

beautiful estuary, adding a dramatic state-

beach cruiser or hardcore mountain bike.

ment to this quaint coastal town. Fishermen have plied their trade here for decades, and

Great Value

the seafaring spirit is an essential part of the

An aﬀordable coastal California destina-

town’s vibe. Sure, beachcombing on the

tion, Morro Bay has an activity for every

miles of beaches is a reward in itself, but if

family member, as well as the best in local

you’re looking for a particular marine

seafood, produce, wine, outdoor and cul-

trophy, drop in to the Shell Shop, which has

tural activities, no matter the budget. The

the largest selection of marine seashells on

variety of lodging options gives visitors the

the Central Coast. Crill’s Salt-Water Taﬀy

opportunity to stay in waterfront hotels or

shop is the place to get that essential seaside

downtown hotels and motels, with package

treat. And window seats at local restaurants

discounts and lodging specials to make

are perfect places to linger, with amazing

vacations easier on the wallet. And some of

harbor and Morro Rock views

the best things to do in Morro Bay are free—

from the Morro Bay Skateboard Museum to

Outdoor Adventures

the Estuary Nature Center, and hiking to

Morro Bay is a launching point for any

beach activities.

DANNA DYSTRA-COY

BOATS IN THE MORRO BAY harbor with the majestic Morro Rock in the background, above; the annual Kite Festival is held in April on Morro Strand Beach, below.

Rural Coastal Destination

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GILROY

Year-round foodie retreat BY JILL K. ROBINSON

THIS SANTA CLARA COUNTY city is

World of Wine

EAT, PLAY, » WINE-TASTE, HIKE

well known as the Garlic Capital of the

Gilroy is also part of one of California’s

World, but the annual festival that cele-

oldest wine-growing regions and is home

brates the pungent plant is only one of

to more than 30 family-owned wineries

Gilroy’s many attractions. With year-round

and tasting rooms. The wayfinding signs

Gilroy Visitor Information

garlic, a wealth of wineries, miles of trails,

along the Santa Clara Valley Wine Trail

amusement parks full of gardens and agri-

help oenophiles and first-time tasters to

visitgilroy.com

cultural mastery, there is plenty in Gilroy to

award-winning wines, beautiful vineyard

please everyone in the family.

views and a casual atmosphere that makes wine tasting fun and not intimidating.

94 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Download the Wine Trail Map for your

Dedicated garlic heads come to the Gilroy

adventure (visitgilroy.com/wineries), and

Garlic Festival the last full weekend of July (July

find the best options for your personal

26-28, 2019). The three-day celebration of food

tasting tour.

and drink, music, arts and family entertainment is where festival-goers consume up to

Welcome Center

two tons of garlic each year—in the form of siz-

Long a trusted stop for visitors to ﬁnd

zling calamari and scampi, pepper steak

helpful maps and guides as well as fun

sandwiches, stuﬀed mushrooms, garlic bread

mementos and coupon oﬀerings from local

and garlic fries. The recently launched Road to

wineries, the Gilroy Welcome Center

Garlic map helps visitors ﬁnd great garlic oﬀer-

morphs into a California Welcome Center

ings 12 months of the year at 40 diﬀerent

in 2019. As the only one in the Silicon

shops, restaurants and other attractions, from

Valley area and just one of three on the Cen-

the Garlic Twirl ride at Gilroy Gardens to Gilroy

tral Coast, the California Welcome Center

Garlic Festival dishes at Mama Mia’s Ristorante

in Gilroy continues to provide information

Italiano to the many forms of garlic items at

that enhances travelers’ experiences,

Garlic World. There are even six diﬀerent loca-

including suggestions on where to eat,

tions in town that serve garlic ice cream.

what to see and where to stay.

VISIT GILROY

PREPARING THE FEAST at the Gilroy Garlic Festival, above; enjoying tasting all along the Wine Trail, below.

Road to Garlic

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DESERTS Recreational playground in the sun B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R

TOP CITIES Palm Springs, Palm Desert, La Quinta, Rancho Mirage, Barstow, Indian Wells, Needles, Salton Sea, Mojave, Indio INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Palm Springs International Airport (PSP), 10 minutes from downtown Palm Springs, 44 miles (71 km) from Anza-Borrego State Park

here aren’t many places where you can golf while wearing shorts in the morning, snowshoe in the afternoon, and laze by the pool with a cocktail in the evening. Which explains why more than ﬁve

million visitors a year descend on Palm Springs and the surrounding desert region.

TOURISM WEBSITES visitpalmsprings.com visitgreaterpalmsprings.com palm-desert.org la-quinta.gov ranchomirageca.gov barstowca.org/visitors indio.org/visit_us Anza-Borrego SP: www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638 Death Valley NP: nps.gov/deva Joshua Tree NP: nps.gov/jotr

Begin with lush palm oases, hot mineral springs and awesome landscapes. Add sublime winter weather plus a to-see-and-do wish list from biking and ballooning to casinos and spas. And top oﬀ with an eternally cool desert lifestyle that recalls the 1940-60s, when Hollywood stars turned the area into a world-famous winter retreat. Welcome to a region where the summer never dies, the Modernist architecture is retro-chic, and the reinvigorated youthful spirit feels as refreshing as a chilled martini. An easy 90-minute drive from Los Angeles, “Palm Springs” is understood as the entire Coachella Valley, comprising eight “desert resort communities” clustered at the foot of the San Jacinto Mountains. They

POPULATION 750,000

merge into one another along Highway 111—one of California’s great urban drives. The physical setting is out of this world. Majestic mountains soar on three sides, glistening with snow in the winter sunshine. There’s no among California’s best. And the region boasts several ritzy casinos. DESERTS

Museums cater to WWII aviation buﬀs, art fans and nature lovers keen to experience desert ecology. El Paseo gives Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive a run for its money in its quality and range of boutiques. Palm Springs’ music,

96 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

VISIT PALM SPRINGS

shortage of activities and attractions. The dining is fabulous. The spas are

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MUST

TAHQUITZ CREEK GOLF COURSE, opposite.

» SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 PALM SPRINGS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Jan. 3-14, Palm Springs, psfilmfest.org PALM SPRINGS MODERNISM WEEK Feb. 14-24, Greater Palm Springs, modernismweek.com RIVERSIDE COUNTY FAIR AND NATIONAL DATE FESTIVAL Feb. 15-24, Indio, datefest.org BNP PARIBAS OPEN March 4-17, Indian Wells, bnpparibasopen.com FASHION WEEK March 16-23, Palm Desert, fashionweekelpaseo.com COACHELLA MUSIC FESTIVAL April 12-14, 19-21, Indio, coachella.com STAGECOACH COUNTRY MUSIC FESTIVAL April 26-28, Indio, stagecoachfestival.com WHITE PARTY April 26-29, Palm Springs, jeffreysanker.com JOSHUA TREE MUSIC FESTIVAL May 16-19, Oct. 10-13, Joshua Tree, joshuatreemusicfestival.com 54TH ANNUAL BORREGO DAYS DESERT FESTIVAL Oct. 18-20, Borrego, Springs borregodays.com GREATER PALM SPRINGS PRIDE Nov. 2-3, Palm Springs, pspride.org FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS PARADE Dec. 7, Palm Springs, psfestivaloflights.com

SEE, DO

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Whisking you to another world as it revolves through 360 degrees, the tram climbs more than two miles to the mountain station at 8,516 feet elevation. Go for the sensational ride, or to escape the summer heat and hike the pleasantly cool pine forest. In winter the mountain is usually swathed in snow—perfect for exploring on cross-country skis or snowshoes. The mountain station’s gourmet restaurant tempts you to linger for a candlelit dinner overlooking the sparkling lights of the valley far below.

›

pstramway.com

Palm Springs Modern The city claims one of the most important concentrations of mid-20th-century Modernist architecture in the world. For a fascinating insight into how Palm Springs became Modernism’s place in the sun, explore with the Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture & Design Center. The curated tour will explain the inspiration for such icons as the Steel Houses, the “House of Tomorrow” and the Romchamp-inspired Bank of America building. Plus, you get to see inside several celebrity homes.

›

moderntour.com

Palm Springs Art Museum Acclaimed as one of California’s top regional art venues, the museum houses a stunning collection spanning pre-Columbian and Native American art to works by classic western American masters, plein air art on a desert theme, and contemporary California artists. Much of the artwork was donated by local residents such as author Sidney Sheldon and actor Kirk Douglas. It occupies a striking Modernist building with a sunken sculpture garden.

›

psmuseum.org

» Joshua Tree National Park Spanning 1,240 square miles, ﬁlm and arts festivals are world-renowned, as is the city’s hip trademark mid-century architecture.

Sports and Active Adventures You might be forgiven for thinking that a desert oﬀers little to do and that it’s just too darn hot to do it in any event. Wrong on both counts! The

this park protects one of the most spectacularly scenic of desert regions and is named for the peculiarly-shaped Joshua trees, which grow here in abundance. Fantastical rock formations draw climbers, and a spiderweb of hiking and mountain bike trails lace the park. Be sure to call in at the Visitor Center and Keys West, a lookout with panoramic views over Coachella Valley, with the San Andreas Fault clearly visible below.

›

nps.gov/jotr

region is replete with exciting recreational activities.

come annually to play golf on more than one hundred courses. Almost as

Living Desert Despite the sizzling heat and lack of water, wildlife abounds in the desert. Most desert denizens hide by day, especially in summer. To see them, head to Living Desert Zoo & Park, which displays fauna from arid environments around the world. Local critters include desert tortoise, mountain lion and bighorn sheep, while exotic wildlife include oryx, giraﬀes and Mexican wolves. More than four miles of interpretive trails weave through the surrounding wilderness.

many arrive to explore the palm groves, alpine summits or spectacular

›

There’s no more quintessential image of the Palm Springs region than an emerald greensward studded by palms and framed by boulder-strewn mountains gloriously snowcapped in winter. In fact, the Coachella Valley has earned the distinction of “Golf Capital of the World,” with more golf courses than you can shake a 4-iron at. More than two million visitors

livingdesert.org

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of California’s top regional art venues—its plein air, Mesoamerican and contemporary glass collections are outstanding. Down valley, more than 150 unique works of art decorate the streets of Palm Desert, grouped for four self-guided tours. Colorful murals grace historic downtown Indio, painting a big picture on the city’s past. And visitors can explore the vast Sunnylands Estate, in Rancho Mirage, where billionaire Walter Annenberg hosted President Richard Nixon after he resigned in 1974, and President Ronald Reagan on a score of New Year’s Eves.

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK, top; young buck mule deer in the high desert, above; family fun in Palm Springs, opposite left; Uptown Design District, Palm Springs, opposite right.

State Park and Joshua Tree National Park,

Festivals to Casinos

where boulder formations prove an exciting

Palm Springs has festivals to please every

challenge for climbers.

taste. The season kicks oﬀ in January with

Fabulous winter weather spells Nirvana

the Palm Springs International Film Fes-

for hikers, rock-climbers, cyclists and other

tival, when Hollywood’s ﬁnest hit town. In

outdoorsy folk. Incising the slopes of the

March, the world-class Indian Wells Tennis

San Jacinto Mountains, the three Indian

Garden ﬁlls to overﬂowing for the annual

Canyons tempt hikers with 30 miles of trails

BNP Paribas Open. And in April, be there or

and picnic sites. Fed by natural springs,

be square for the Coachella Music Festival,

stands of desert fan palms crowd the canyon

hosted in the warm open air of neighboring

ﬂoors, providing sheltering oases for kit fox,

Indio. Almost 200 star performers rock half

bighorn sheep and coyote. Ancient petro-

a million attendees; with Ariana Grande

glyphs can be seen while hiking Andreas

and Tame Impala headlining, the 2019 fes-

Canyon and Tahquitz Canyon, with its spec-

tival guarantees that it’s one hot ticket!

tacular 60-foot-tall waterfall.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

SOCIAL CYCLE—a 16-passenger,

Higher culture? Palm Desert’s McCallum Theater resounds to laughter and cheers of

Cultural Connections

delight with a lineup that can range from

Culture vultures delight to ﬁnd the desert is

Itzhak Perlman and The Vienna Boys Choir to

far from dry. The Native American Agua

The Nutcracker ballet and the Peking Acrobats.

Caliente occupied the Palm Springs region

Since the valley’s Cahuilla Indian terri-

long before Europeans arrived. Their proud

tory is a sovereign nation, it’s exempt from

legacy is on show at the Agua Caliente Cul-

California’s state ban on gambling. Try your

without fear of losing your license.

tural Museum in downtown Palm Springs;

hand with Lady Luck at any of half a dozen

It plies a route through downtown

it will debut in a superb new venue in 2020.

casinos. Most have venues that host class

with stops at a selection of top

History buﬀs also delight in the Palm

acts from world-title boxing to top per-

bars and restaurants. You can hop

Springs Air Museum, replete with World

formers such as Kesha, Sheena Easton and

on a public tour or reserve it for

War II-era warplanes from a P-51 Mustang to

the desert’s own Barry Manilow. And

you and a group of friends. Two-

a B-17 Flying Fortress. The monied elite that

shopaholics are in for a treat: Art galleries,

hour tours depart Friday-Sunday;

pours into Palm Springs for the winter is a

haute couturiers and boutique stores spe-

departure times vary by day.

huge patron of the arts. Hollywood star and

cializing in retro modernist décor oﬀer a

socialcycleca.com

long-time resident Kirk Douglas was a major

dash of retail therapy between your spa

donor to the Palm Springs Art Museum, one

treatments.

pedal-powered cycle steered by a professional guide—lets you tour Palm Springs while partying and

98 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

HOLBOX/SHUTTERSTOCK; MELINDA FAWVER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM

desert landscapes of Anza-Borrego Desert

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Natural Wonders

Cinder Cones National Natural Landmark—a

with Fantasy Balloon Flights for a bird’s-eye

Brimming with the glories of nature, the

gateway to the stand-out draw of the northern

view of the Coachella Valley. Then delight the

desert is a paradise for anyone who appre-

Mojave: Death Valley National Park. The

kids, and yourself, with a ten-minute jaunt

ciates stupendous landscapes. The scenery

highest ground temperature ever recorded on

to Alaska (at least metaphorically) aboard the

is far more diverse than you might imagine,

earth was here, at Badwater, a sunken trough

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. It ascends

ranging from below sea level to almost

that reaches 282 feet below sea level. Yet

through four life zones to the mountaintop

11,000 feet atop Mount San Jacinto.

Death Valley is rimmed by 11,000-foot moun-

station, where the air is 30 degrees cooler

Abundant rains in winter carpet the

tains. Winter months are deliciously

than it is in the desert below.

desert with wildﬂowers—nowhere more

temperate, when tourists ﬂock to marvel at

spectacular than the springtime bloom of

chromatic canyons and sun-bleached salt

Antelope Valley Poppy State Reserve, near

pans. Well-paved roads lace the park, while

the town of Mojave. Snaking south through

dirt roads open up a world of extreme adven-

the Coachella Valley, scenic palm-lined

ture for visitors with suitable vehicles.

Highway 111 will deliver you to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Capital of desert botanica,

Family Fun

this 500,000-acre park is ablaze with ﬁery

Kids love the desert, which oﬀers heaps of

red poppies and other wildﬂowers.

family fun, including old ghost towns such

DRIVE

» TOUR Start in downtown PALM SPRINGS and follow Highway 111 southeast to

PALM DESERT, then head into the San Jacinto Mountains along steep,

A 30-minute drive northeast from Palm

as Pioneertown, an old movie set where

Springs, Joshua Tree National Park spans

shoot-out recreations bring old Westerns

1,240 square miles of Mojave and lower Col-

back to life. Another favorite is the Living

for a sensational view. Retrace your

orado deserts and protects one of the most

Desert Zoo & Gardens, exhibiting nearly

route to Highway 111 and continue

spectacular desert regions in North

400 species of animals, from aardvark to

east. Turn south onto Highway 86

America. Popular with rock climbers, its

zebra. With luck you might even spot

past date palms and vineyards and

dramatic landscapes are made surreal by

bighorn sheep in the wild on a Desert

the Salton Sea to SALTON CITY, then

the “Joshua tree” species of yucca, with

Adventures eco-tour by Jeep. Even camels

head west along Highway 522

strange, arm-like branches.

add to the fun at Indio’s Riverside County

through the BORREGO BADLANDS

Fair & National Date Festival in February.

to the artists’ community of BOR-

From Joshua Tree, historic Route 66 unfurls past Mojave National Preserve, where

In summer, beat the heat splashing about

the Kelso Dunes tower almost 1,000 feet

at Wet’N’Wild waterpark. Or take to the air

twisting

Highway

the

COACHELLA VALLEY VISTA POINT

SPRINGS.

REGO

Explore

the

fantastical metal sculptures in GAL-

above the desert ﬂoor. They’re known as the

LETA MEADOWS, then lace up your

“singing dunes” because they emit a buzz or

hiking boots to explore cactus-

rumble when sand slides down the dune-

studded ANZA-BORREGO DESERT

face. Nearby, 32 ancient volcanic cones stud

STATE PARK.

PALM SPRINGS

PALM DESERT

COACHELLA VALLEY VISTA POINT

GALLETA MEADOWS

BORREGO BADLANDS SALTON CITY

ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK VISITOR CENTER BORREGO SPRINGS

2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A 99

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PALM SPRINGS

Where hip meets Mid-Century Modern

DINE, SHOP, » GALLERY HOP! Visitor Information visitpalmsprings.com

MODERNISM WEEK festivities at the Sinatra House, above; taking a snapshot of a MidCentury Modern home, below; hiking in Indian Canyons, opposite top; pool view at Parker Palm Springs, opposite bottom.

Sun-kissed, relaxed and surrounded by

trendy hotels and many historic boutique

spectacular mountains, Palm Springs has

properties. Add the Uptown Design District’s

long been a hypnotic hideaway for a

art galleries, fab new restaurants and edgy

celebrity A-list. In the swinging 1950s and

stores selling designer fashions to curated

’60s, it was a favorite retreat of Frank Sinatra

Mid-Century décor, plus fun-ﬁlled pool par-

and other Hollywood stars who partied

ties and a sizzling nightlife to rival Miami

poolside in their Mid-Century Modern bun-

and Vegas. No wonder a whole new genera-

galows. Today, the glamtastic desert oasis

tion of vacationers, trendsetters and

has reemerged as a hip Hollywood play-

celebrities—from Leonardo DiCaprio to

ground thanks to exciting developments—

Kylie Jenner—are ﬂocking to where it’s the

from buzzing bars and great restaurants to

swinging 1960s all over again.

stylish new (or renovated) hotels—that have reenergized Palm Springs with an irresistible retro-chic vibe and global appeal. A spectacular redevelopment plan has

100 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Haute Design/Architectural Cool/Year-Round/LGBT Friendly Renowned worldwide as the mecca of Mid-

put a new luster on downtown Palm Springs,

Century

highlighted by the light-drenched Kimpton

embraces and celebrates this design aes-

Modernism,

Palm

Springs

The Rowan Palm Springs hotel, and a pedes-

thetic like nowhere else. With more than

trian walkway aiming a visual spotlight on

two thousand mid-mod homes and public

the world-class Palm Springs Art Museum.

buildings—the world’s largest concentra-

And Hyatt’s exciting Andaz Hotel will also

tion of such architecture—Palm Springs’

open in 2019. Visitors can also experience

distinctive “desert vernacular” style can

glamorous style at the city’s other super-

also be experienced in stunning interior

DAVID A. LEE; VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM. OPPOSITE: VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM

B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R

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design, fashion and unique shopping. Mid-

where palm trees and majestic moun-

growing collection of architecture and

Century glamour draws more than 100,000

tains—gloriously

design-related pieces.

visitors from around the world for Mod-

winter—oﬀer stunning vistas from the his-

The Palm Springs Air Museum is one of

ernism Week every February and October.

toric downtown village. For centuries

the world’s foremost museums dedicated

snow-capped

Many of the ﬁnest examples of Mod-

inhabited by the Agua Caliente band of

to WWII aircraft, displayed in two hangars

ernism are boutique hotels—Holiday

Cahuilla Indians, Palm Springs was named

replicating the European and Paciﬁc the-

House, Orbit In and Parker Palm Springs, to

by the native tribe for the city’s healing hot

aters. Aviation buﬀs and WWII aﬁcionados

name a few—and almost all have played

springs and palm oases. The four beautiful

will exult to the warbirds on display, to

host to the Hollywood elite. In fact, many

and wildlife-rich Indian Canyons, on the

ﬂying demos and Warbird Rides in a P-51

homes of famous personalities who have

immediate outskirts of town, are open to

Mustang and C-47 Skytrain.

lived, loved and played in Palm Springs

the public for hikes. The tribe is in the

(from Ol’ Blue Eyes to Elvis Presley) are

process of building a sensational new Agua

open to view during Modernism Week and

Caliente Cultural Museum scheduled to

at other times of the year.

open in 2020. For those looking for lady

Palm Springs’ population once surged in

luck, the tribe’s downtown Spa Resort

winter, with its guaranteed sunshine and

Casino adds 24-hour excitement with its

warm nights, then cleared out by summer.

live music lounge and outdoor concerts

No longer. Palm Springs is now a trendy year-

beneath the starry night sky.

round destination, not least as the weekend

Basketry, pottery and other artifacts by

haven of choice for sleek LA hipsters come to

local Amerindian tribes is a highlight of the

chill out by the pool with cool cocktails. And

Palm Springs Art Museum’s Mesoamerican

Palm Springs’ sizeable gay and lesbian popu-

collection. Considered one of California’s

lation translates into an uber LGBT-friendly

ﬁnest regional museums, this world-class

and fun destination, and never more so than

venue is also notable for its contemporary

during the annual Gay Pride Festival

art and astounding glass art in the Denney

(November) and White Party (May).

Western American Art Wing. A few blocks away, the Palm Springs Art Museum Archi-

Tramway to Another World/Summer Fun

Cultural Oasis in the Desert

tecture & Design Center, in a 1960s former

To truly appreciate Palm Springs’ beauty

Palm Springs, just a two-hour drive from

bank building of classic Mid-Century Mod-

and scale, climb aboard the Palm Springs

Los Angeles, is gateway to a desert oasis

ernist styling, houses the museum’s

Aerial

Tramway—the

world’s

largest

rotating tram car—for a sensational cactito-clouds ride, and hiking and dining at 8,500 feet near the top of Mt. San Jacinto. The easy Desert View Trail begins near the Mountain Station and rewards hikers with sensational views over the city, as does the Bogert Trail complex at the southern end of Palm Springs. In summertime, chill at the Splash House pool party or ﬁnd cool family fun at Wet’N’Wild waterpark. Every Thursday evening, the downtown drag transforms into VillageFest, a traﬃc-free street fair with arts, crafts, local produce, plus great grub and entertainment. And every month is packed with festive events. There’s always something happening in Palm Springs.

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SAN DIEGO COUNTY Beautiful beaches, sunshine and more

BY MARIBETH MELLIN TOP CITIES San Diego, Coronado, Chula Vista, La Jolla, Del Mar, Encinitas, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Oceanside, Escondido, El Cajon, Julian, Borrego Springs INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Diego International Airport (SAN), also known as Lindbergh Field, is conveniently located on the edge of downtown

alifornia has no shortage of beach towns, but San Diego is its only “beach city,” where the state’s second-largest population enjoys 70 miles of scenic coastline and 70-degree temperatures. Outdoor fun and

family-oriented attractions are the main lures, but San Diego takes the “city” part seriously, too. Artistic and intellectual pursuits enjoy deep support here. Writers, artists, musicians and scientists ﬁnd inspiration while surﬁng at La Jolla Shores or jogging in Mission Bay Park. The Tony Award-winning Old Globe

lajollabythesea.com visitdelmarvillage.com visitoceanside.org visitescondido.com sandiegozoo.org

POPULATION 3 million

and La Jolla Playhouse send plays to Broadway frequently. Scientific landmarks including the Salk Institute and Scripps Institution of Oceanography are magnets for some of the world’s brightest minds. Downtown’s diversions alone could easily fill a week. New, exciting restaurants, clubs and shops pop up in trendy neighborhoods, creating a constant buzz. The Embarcadero tracing San Diego Bay’s edge offers access to the USS Midway aircraft carrier; the Maritime Museum with its landmark Star of India and new San Salvador, a replica of Spanish explorers’ ships; the expansive Waterfront Park; and the San Diego Convention Center. Cruise ships berth at the foot of Broadway and passengers into San Diego International Airport fly over high-rise towers to land just north of downtown. Hotels of every description and hip-quotient are scattered throughout the city’s core, making it a desirable place to stay.

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

A Bridge to Coronado The swooping San Diego-Coronado Bridge connects downtown to Coronado, a genteel city with an active Navy base and one of the world’s loveliest beaches. Its “island” actually is a peninsula tethered to the mainland by the Silver Strand,

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KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CITYPASS

TOURISM WEBSITES sandiego.org coronadovisitorcenter.com visitcarlsbad.com visitjulian.com borregospringschamber.com sdzsafaripark.org

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a narrow strip of road and sand running

lands Park and teeing oﬀ at Coronado

past Navy installations and pristine

Municipal Golf Course.

MUST

beaches to the south county. The red turrets atop the Victorian Hotel del Coronado

Balboa Park

peek above the city’s modest skyline.

San Diego’s century-old cultural heart

Coronado’s pleasures include shopping

occupies 1,200 acres of hills and canyons

and dining on Orange Avenue, visiting the

just east of downtown. It hosts 17

Coronado Museum of History & Art,

museums and The Old Globe theater,

ogling the San Diego skyline from Tide-

winner of multiple Tony Awards. Its most

SEE, DO

Mission Bay Park With plenty of room for jogging, bicycling, boating, kite flying and countless other activities, this 4,600-acre aquatic and land park is centrally located along I-5 near the wildly popular communities of Mission Beach, Pacific Beach and Ocean Beach. Some areas have fire rings, playgrounds or picnic areas, while others are best for watercraft and swimming. Cruise along Mission Bay Drive for an overview and keep an eye out for crowds, as boat races, charity runs and other events are common. › sandiego.gov/park-and-recreation

LILY POND IN BALBOA PARK, opposite; SeaWorld Turtle Reef, above.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 GASLAMP QUARTER MARDI GRAS March 4, Downtown San Diego sdmardigras.com SAN DIEGO CREW CLASSIC April 6-7, Mission Bay crewclassic.org THE MISSION VALLEY CRAFT BEER & FOOD FESTIVAL April 27, Mission Valley mvcbf.com FIESTA OLD TOWN CINCO DE MAYO May 4-6, Old Town San Diego cincodemayooldtown.com GATOR BY THE BAY May 9-12, Spanish Landing Park gatorbythebay.com ROCK ‘N’ ROLL MARATHON June 1-2, Central San Diego runrocknroll.competitor.com/san-diego SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR June 1-July 4, Del Mar Fairgrounds sdfair.com OB STREET FAIR & CHILI COOK-OFF June 22, Ocean Beach oceanbeachsandiego.com PORT OF SAN DIEGO BIG BAY BOOM July 4, San Diego Bay bigbayboom.com DEL MAR THOROUGHBRED CLUB HORSERACING July 17-Sept. 2, Nov. 7-Dec.1, Del Mar dmtc.com COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL July 18-21, Downtown San Diego comic-con.org KAABOO DEL MAR Sept. 13-15, Del Mar kaaboodelmar.com ADAMS AVENUE STREET FAIR Sept. 28-29, Central San Diego, adamsavenuebusiness.com/event-info/adams-avenue-street-fair/

La Jolla This upscale Mediterranean-style community lives up to its name (“The Jewel” in Spanish), with a postcard-ready setting, white sands, turquoise waters, sea caves (including Sunny Jim Cave, California’s only known land-access sea cave) and an Underwater Park teeming with pinnipeds, rays, scuttling lobsters and countless ﬁsh. It’s not just another pretty face, though; it hosts the Tony Award-winning La Jolla Playhouse, Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, Murals of La Jolla and the Birch Aquarium—while also oﬀering the “Rodeo Drive of San Diego,” named for Prospect Street’s stellar shops, galleries and restaurants. › lajollabythesea.com

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park There aren’t many places where you can drive from the beach to the mountains and on to the desert in less than a day. San Diego County encompasses all three, including California’s largest state park. Traﬃc reaches rush-hour proportions during the spring cactus bloom, when the vast brown explodes with color. The park is fascinating any time of year, as is the town of Borrego Springs. › parks.ca.gov

Balboa Park The country’s largest urban cultural park is a rambling landscape of museums, theaters, artists’ studios and gardens. The tiled California Tower, with its unobstructed 360-degree view of the park and city, has become a treasured landmark, reopened after an 80-year closure for the park’s centennial in 2015. › balboapark.org

Cabrillo National Monument High above the tip of Point Loma, this sprawling park commemorates Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo and San Diego’s early history. It’s most popular for the panoramas of the boat-ﬁlled bay and sea, the mountains to the east and the hills of Tijuana to the south. It’s a great place to look for whales spouting oﬀshore in winter. › nps.gov/cabr/index.htm

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HEAD OF THE SERPENT, one of artist Ricardo Breceda’s 130-plus metal sculptures in Borrego Springs, above; arcade in Balboa Park in San Diego, right; Torrey Pines Golf Course in La Jolla, opposite top; LEGOLAND family fun, opposite below.

» TIP

famous tenant, the justly renowned San

modernist condo complexes, trendy shops

Diego Zoo, celebrated its Centennial in

and gourmet restaurants helmed by top

2016 and opened a huge Africa Rocks

chefs. As the hub of San Diego’s sophisti-

exhibit in 2017.

cated nightlife scene, the entire downtown now pulses with energy day and night.

San Diego is exceptionally pet friendly, even at the beach.

Beach Towns

Though dogs are banned from

The coast between the Mexican border (18

through Bankers Hill and Hillcrest, the

most public beaches, they can

miles south of downtown) and Oceanside is

lively heart of the LGBT community. Over

race from sand to sea at a few

lined with beach towns. Each has a unique

the past decade, the former Naval Training

specific spots. Some say the

character, from Ocean Beach’s hippie vibe to

Center, now called Liberty Station, has

section of the public beach

classy La Jolla’s Mediterranean ambience.

evolved into a mini-town with stores,

beside the MISSION BAY JETTY in

Beloved by surfers and escapists with suﬃ-

oﬃces, galleries, schools and the Liberty

Ocean Beach was San Diego’s

cient wherewithal, a series of small

Public Market occupying the base’s

original dog playground, and it’s

communities line the coast north of La

Spanish Colonial-style former commissary

still one of the most popular in

Jolla’s Torrey Pines State Reserve.

building. Abundant open space makes

The urban core continues uptown

the county. Nearby FIESTA

Liberty Station the perfect spot for art shows,

ISLAND is beloved by dogs and

City & Town

their human companions for its

San Diego’s cosmopolitan downtown

great expanse of sand edging

encompasses several hip neighborhoods.

The Great Outdoors

Mission Bay. You can count on

The historic Gaslamp Quarter’s picturesque

Surfers, swimmers, boaters and anglers all

finding lots of large, active

streets are packed with classy restaurants

play in and on the Paciﬁc Ocean, from Impe-

family gatherings and special events.

canines here. The north end of

and clubs in restored 19 -century Victo-

rial Beach near the Mexican border north to

CORONADO’S BEACH, often

rian, Baroque and Frontier buildings. Petco

Oceanside and the Marine base at Camp

included in Top 10 lists, is open

Park,

stadium,

Pendleton. Snorkeling is especially good at La

to dogs 24/7. DEL MAR’S DOG

anchors the East Village ﬁlled with condo

Jolla Cove, while surfers prefer Ocean Beach,

BEACH, near the Del Mar Race

complexes, cafés and a stunning Central

Paciﬁc Beach and dozens of small patches of

Track, is open from just after

Library. Little Italy managed to hold on to

sand with gnarly waves just oﬀshore.

Labor Day until mid June.

some venerable pizza parlors, bakeries and

East and north of the city center, the

bars while evolving from a simple Italian

landscape gives way to rolling foothills and

community into an urban enclave with

canyons. Lakes and reservoirs oﬀer fresh-

104 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

downtown’s

baseball

DOUG JAMES/SHUTTERSTOCK; GABRIELE MALTINTI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SMJONES/SHUTTERSTOCK; CITYPASS

INSIDER’S

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water fishing and tranquility. The vast Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, home of “California’s Grand Canyon” at Fonts Point, provides hiking trails through palm canyons, fields of cacti and dazzling wildflower displays.

Heritage & Culture Explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo spotted San Diego Bay in 1542 but quickly sailed on north, leaving the Kumeyaay Indians to their warm, bountiful home. San Diego County’s

Diego.

18 tribes represent the largest concentration

Museum is an eco-friendly playground for

Downtown’s

New

Children’s

in the country, and more than half beneﬁt

all ages, with multicultural, bilingual

from casinos in east and north counties.

exhibits that make learning fun, and its

Cabrillo’s brief stay is commemorated at

adjacent one-acre park allows kids to burn

Cabrillo National Monument at the tip of

energy. Teens ﬂock to ﬁghter planes and

Point Loma overlooking the bay. European

ﬂight simulators at the USS Midway

settlers who returned in 1769 built a fort

Museum. Top choices for inexpensive

and mission church at Presidio Hill, a gor-

Family Fun

entertainment: bicycling at Mission Bay

geous swath of lawns above Old Town State

Adults and children alike relish the San

and Coronado, ﬁshing oﬀ piers in Imperial

Historic Park, which contains many of San

Diego Zoo and its separate Safari Park,

Beach and Ocean Beach and stargazing from

Diego’s oldest buildings.

Legoland California and SeaWorld San

Mount Palomar.

DRIVE

» TOUR

OCEANSIDE

CARLSBAD

Historic Highway 101, also called the PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, runs through San Diego’s idyllic NORTH COUNTY coastal communities, passing by gorgeous long beaches and wild lagoons. You can do the trip in a couple of hours, but why hurry? Begin at the north end of La Jolla at TORREY PINES LEUCADIA

STATE PARK and descend a steep hill to Torrey Pines beach, then uphill again to DEL MAR. Stop signs at each block force you to slow down and appreciate the Tudor-style buildings and quaint shops and cafés in town before you

MOONLIGHT BEACH ENCINITAS

CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA

descend again and cruise through SOLANA BEACH, CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA,

ENCINITAS, LEUCADIA, CARLSBAD and OCEANSIDE. Each town’s main street presents an array of dining and browsing options, from funky Mexican take-

SOLANA BEACH

DEL MAR

out stands to fancy restaurants on the sand. Of the many beaches along the way, MOONLIGHT BEACH in Encinitas presents the most playtime possibili-

TORREY PINES STATE PARK

ties including a playground, snack bar, picnic tables and a year-round lifeguard station. Take your time and stop often. The distance between Torrey Pines and Oceanside is only 25 miles, but you can easily spend a full day exploring. When you’re ready to return to central San Diego, just hop on I-5 South at one of the many entrances along 101.

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SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK Born to be wild BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN

NOT ONLY IS THE SAN DIEGO ZOO one of the world’s largest, it set the bar for zoos everywhere by pioneering the concept of zoos without cages. More than 3,500 animals living here represent 650 species and subspecies, many of which are nearing extinction in the wild. The zoo’s 100 acres of Balboa Park re-create its denizens’ natural habitats in a botanical garden of 700,000 exotic plants. Perhaps most important, its Institute for Conservation Research contributes its scientiﬁc expertise MOTHER CHEETAH watches over her cubs, above; a giant panda eyes his bamboo lunch, left.

to 100 conservation and species-preservation projects in 45 countries on six continents and has been instrumental in replenishing populations of the California condor, giant panda and Tasmanian devil,

whoosh of the world’s fastest cat speeding

among many other species.

past. At the newest habitat, Walkabout Australia, some of Earth’s strangest animals

Africa Rocks, opened in summer 2017, is the zoo’s newest exhibit, as well as the largest

to watch trainers at work and learn how zoo

pop up—literally, in the case of kangaroos

in the zoo’s 100-year history. Its eight acres,

staﬀ cares for a variety of animals.

and wallabies—in the grasslands, bill-

to make baboons, leopards, lemurs and

San Diego Zoo Safari Park

cassowaries have their own unique forms

dwarf crocodiles feel right at home. Endan-

Northeast of San Diego in Escondido, the

of locomotion).

gered African penguins have their own

zoo’s former breeding facility is now an

For photo ops with herds of giraﬀes,

habitat. The Panda Trek, Asian leopard

1,800-acre adjunct park where most of its

crashes of rhinos and ﬂocks of exotic birds,

habitat and the Australian Outback, home to

more than 3,000 animals run free. It con-

board the Africa Tram. For a park overview,

koalas mingling with other marsupials and

centrates on herd animals such as giraﬀes,

join one of the safaris, undertaken by cart,

birds, are still among the most popular areas.

antelopes and rhinos from African and

caravan, jungle ropes or zip line. You can

Visitors can book special early-morning

Asian savannahs but houses more than 300

even sleep close to the animals on a Roar

species in all.

and Snore Safari. If you’re lucky, you’ll

tours for an extra fee that include private time with favorite felines or joining giant

To see these creatures up close, just

glimpse one of the six white rhinos that live

pandas for breakfast. Animals in Action

stroll the Tiger Trail, the Lemur Walk or the

in the Rhino Rescue Center, which is not

and Inside Look Tours go behind the scenes

Cheetah Run, where you can feel the

open to visitors.

106 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK

abongs and rain forest (sugar gliders and

including a 65-foot waterfall, are landscaped

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INLAND EMPIRE An often-overlooked region of mountains, deserts, vineyards and casino action

BY LENORE GREINER TOP CITIES Big Bear Lake, Lake Arrowhead, Temecula, Ontario, San Bernardino, Riverside, Redlands INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Ontario International Airport (ONT), 35 miles (56 km) east of downtown Los Angeles, 23 miles (37 km) west of San Bernardino, 16 miles (26 km) west of Riverside TOURISM WEBSITES bigbear.com lakearrowheadchamber.com visittemeculavalley.com riversidecvb.com GOcvb.org

he vast 5,000 square miles of the Inland Empire deftly capture California’s Spanish and Native American origins, the stagecoach era and the Golden Age of traveling Route 66. The perennially sunny,

scenic landscape and historic sites here reflect Golden State extremes: snowcapped granite peaks of the San Bernardino Mountains to the north and the San Jacinto range to the east fast descend into arid high deserts and, finally, to verdant vineyards and groves. In the birthplace of California’s citrus industry, discover tranquil, scenic beauty among vineyards, hiking paths or ski runs. Or partake in distinctly Californian pursuits: wine tasting, escaping to a quiet golf resort, or soaking in steamy hot springs. The crowds are fewer and the prices are lower than Lake Tahoe and Napa Valley, yet you’ll find the same thrills and diversions

POPULATION 2.3 million

in the Inland Empire.

The Great Outdoors For year-round recreation, travelers can head into the San Bernardino Mountains, to two popular alpine lakes. At Big Bear Lake, outdoor enthusiasts find winter alpine sports at Big Bear Mountain and Snow Summit for excellent skiing and snowboarding. Come summertime, the lake offers watersports lovers abundant fishing, boating, kayaking and even parasailing. Lake Arrowhead offers hiking, horseback riding, biking and ice-skating. Or INLAND EMPIRE

wander in the natural beauty and charming shops of the Swiss Chalet-style alpine village of Lake Arrowhead. Or simply stargaze, watch the autumn leaves turn or the winter snowﬂakes fall.

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MUST

SEE, DO

Saddle Up Wine Tours This equine and wine

tour winds through Temecula’s vineyards and winery estates until you say “Whoa” at up to three wineries for tastings. › saddleupwinetours.com

Sand to Snow National Monument

In 2016, President Obama designated our newest national monument, 154,000 acres of San Bernardino National Forest and BLM land jutting skyward from the Sonoran desert ﬂoor to the 11,502-foot peak of Mount San Gorgonio. This biologically diverse monument encompasses wildlife corridors, sacred Serrano and Cahuilla tribal sites and 30 miles of the Paciﬁc Crest Trail. › fs.fed.us/visit/sand-to-snow-national-monument

University of California Riverside’s ARTSBlock A cultural anchor in downtown River-

side, three miles from UCR’s main campus, ARTSblock occupies adjacent historic buildings and former department stores. The California Museum of Photography exhibits contemporary photography and has a comprehensive collection of early cameras. The Sweeney Art Gallery acts as a laboratory of experimental art. The Culver Center of the Arts hosts ﬁlms, lectures and theatrical programs. › artsblock.ucr.edu

Ballooning over Temecula Drift serenely in a hot-air balloon over the vineyards, citrus groves and horse ranches of Temecula’s wine country, tinged by the rising sun’s golden light. Sunrise Balloons first pioneered these flights in 1975; their capable, licensed pilots ensure a safe float that begins with a mimosa and ends with cold champagne. › sunriseballoons.com

Mission Inn Hotel & Spa This 1902 National Historic Landmark has hosted presidents and movie stars in this ramble of Mission Revival, Moorish and Oriental architecture, and Louis Comfort Tiﬀany mosaics. It’s authentic, never touristy and worth a visit. Sip a drink in the Spanish Patio under colonnades draped with red bougainvillea. › missioninn.com

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SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 RIVERSIDE DICKENS FESTIVAL Costumed Dickens characters descend upon downtown Riverside. Festivities include a Steampunk fashion show, a Victorian tea room with music hall performances, parasol dueling and Mr. and Mrs. Fezziwig’s Ball in full Victorian regalia. February 23-24 dickensfest.com TEMECULA ROD RUN Roaring hot rods descend upon Old Town Temecula. March 1-2 temeculaca.gov/rodrun RAMONA OUTDOOR PLAY Playing since 1926, this tragic romance about the Ponca Indians is America’s longest running drama and California’s Oﬃcial Outdoor Play. April 13-14, 27-28, May 4-5, ramonabowl.com TEMECULA VALLEY BALLOON & WINE FESTIVAL This festival features hot-air balloon rides, wine and craft beer tastings, gourmet food, live music and more on Lake Skinner. May 31-June 2, tvbwf.com ROUTE 66 CRUISIN’ REUNION Classic 20th-century cars roam Ontario’s historic downtown in a tribute to the legendary Mother Road, which runs through Rancho Cucamonga just to the north. Sept. 20-21. route66cruisinreunion.com LAKE ARROWHEAD ANNUAL ANTIQUE & CLASSIC WOODEN BOAT SHOW Rare antique and classic wooden boats gather in Lake Arrowhead Village. June; check website for speciﬁc dates. lakearrowheadchamber.com BIG BEAR LAKE & LAKE ARROWHEAD VILLAGE OKTOBERFESTS These events feature bands, beer and brats at a 7,000-foot elevation. Weekends, Sept. 7-Nov. 2 at Big Bear Lake, Sept. 21-Oct. 27 at Lake Arrowhead Village. bigbearevents.com/Oktoberfest, lakearrowheadoktoberfest.com

BALLOONING over the orange groves in Temecula Valley, previous page; Ontario Mills Mall, below; horseback riding in Temecula, opposite page.

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INSIDER’S

» TIP

Settled in the 1840s, Louis Robidoux’s Jurupa Rancho property eventually became a city park, the MT. RUBIDOUX TRAIL AND MEMORIAL PARK. West of downtown Riverside, this local favorite has a 2.7-mile paved trail ascending the 1,399foot-high mountain amid

and oldest navel orange tree, planted in 1873,

Mojave, Serrano and Gabrielino. Within

historical plaques. The climb,

stands on the spot where California’s multi-

the

lined with spring wildflowers or

million-dollar citrus industry began. Since

museum, the Zimmerman Citrus Kiosk

views of the snow-dusted San

1880, the iconic Mission Inn has hosted U.S.

explores the area’s citrus heritage.

Bernardino Mountains in winter,

presidents and delighted travelers with a

rewards hikers with expansive

Hearst Castle-like eclectic mix of Spanish

Family Fun

Riverside valley views.

and Moorish architecture, adorned with

The fun begins with rides on the locomo-

priceless Italian and Spanish treasures, as a

tives and trolleys of the Orange Empire

church bell tolls on the hour.

Railway Museum in Perris. At Tom’s Farms

VISIT TEMECULA VALLEY. OPPOSITE: JACK YONN/ONTARIO CVB. PREVIOUS PAGE: VISIT TEMECULA VALLEY

mt-rubidoux.org

citrus

groves

surrounding

the

The San Bernardino Museum explores

in Corona, kids can mine for emeralds and

local history by exhibiting a covered

rubies, ride a pony, board the 1800s steam

City & Town

wagon that crossed the Mojave Desert

train or drive a tractor. In the summertime

Foodies and oenophiles should explore Old

from Salt Lake City and a Wells Fargo

heat, take cool water rides on the Alpine

Town Temecula’s historic district of 1880s

stagecoach. The Hall of Anthropology

Slide’s twisting curves at the Magic Moun-

buildings for wine tasting and sampling

showcases local native cultures, the

tain Recreation Area at Big Bear Lake.

local fare in a friendly, Old West ambience. Or visit Redlands, the “City of Beautiful Homes,” and its opulent Victorians and Arts and Crafts style homes of yesteryear. North of Temecula, play in the mud or

DRIVE

» TOUR

soak in the soothing mineral waters of the 157-year-old Glen Ivy Hot Springs, dating from early stagecoach days. Get in on the action at the gaming tables at the Pechanga Casino. Or soar in a hot air balloon over Temecula

Valley’s

35,000-acre

wine

RIM OF THE WORLD SCENIC BYWAY: This 107-mile scenic drive begins on State Highway 138 just west of I-15 at the

MORMON ROCK FIRE STATION. Travel east on 138 to

country, dotted with B&Bs and luxury

the CAJON PASS OVERLOOK

resorts amid vines and citrus groves. After-

for breathtaking views, then

wards, relax with a glass of local wine on a

east to SILVERWOOD LAKE

winery portico or play golf in this quiet

and the Mojave River basin. 138 merges with 18 along the rim of the San

oasis of the California good life.

Bernardino forest and provides sweeping vistas of San Bernardino,

Heritage & Culture

road around Big Bear Lake to MILL CREEK RANGER STATION. This tour

Riverside harbors a wealth of California his-

can be done in four hours.

Redlands and the Los Angeles Basin. At BIG BEAR LAKE DAM, follow the

tory. On Magnolia Avenue, the state’s ﬁrst

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ONTARIO SoCal hub offers its own myriad attractions

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

PERFORMANCE Greater Ontario Visitor Information

GOcvb.org

ONTARIO CONVENTION CENTER, above; shopping in Rancho Cucamonga, below.

Neighboring Rancho Cucamonga, where

Southern California’s storied beaches,

the San Gabriel Mission’s cattle once grazed,

shopping, theme parks and nightlife

is part of Greater Ontario. Here, the home of

without the gridlock and exorbitant prices,

renowned postwar furniture designer Sam

start by ﬂying into stress-free Ontario Inter-

Maloof oﬀers guided tours showcasing his

national Airport—but don’t rush oﬀ. While

exquisite craftsmanship. The Cucamonga

an ideal hub for all the region’s attractions,

service station is one of the last original

Ontario is also the gateway to mountain

structures on the legendary Route 66, which

and desert escapes, and the largest botanic

runs through town. The annual event, Route

garden dedicated to California native

66 Cruisin’ Reunion, ﬁlls Ontario’s 22-block

plants, Rancho Santa Ana, is in its back

historic downtown with classics from 1914

yard. Best of all, this unheralded city of

Buicks to 1980s muscle cars.

176,000 is, in its own right, a trove of historic spots, shopping and entertainment. The Sunkist water tower south of down-

112 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Movie buﬀs can choose from dozens of theaters, while Rancho Cucamonga’s Lewis Family Playhouse oﬀers community the-

town recalls Ontario’s origin in 1882, when

ater

the Chaﬀey brothers founded a model

Business Bank Arena, fresh from a conces-

township named for their home province

sion-stand makeover and a new outdoor

in Canada. That era lives on in Ontario’s

patio, supplements its many sports events

Museum of History and Art and at the

with major concert performers and such

family-owned Graber Olive House, which

acts as the Harlem Globetrotters, Trans-

has used the same recipe since 1894. More

Siberian Orchestra and Cirque du Soleil.

and

Broadway

shows.

Citizens

recent history endures at quaint Logan’s

Shopping options range from shops

Candies, which has made candy canes the

around Ontario Town Square to the mega

same way since 1933. For more glimpses of

outlet center Ontario Mills to Rancho Cuca-

the past, download self-guided historic

monga’s Victoria Gardens, whose anchor

walking tour maps at ontarioca.gov (select

stores are surrounded by small shops

the Visitors section and search for

arranged as city blocks served by a cultural

“Ontario’s history”).

center that includes a theater and library.

ONTARIO CONVENTION CENTER; MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

SHOP, DINE,

» SEE A

FOR EASY, AFFORDABLE access to

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BIG BEAR LAKE Southern California’s primo mountain escape BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

HIKE, PADDLE,

» SKI, RIDE

Big Bear Lake Visitor Information

bigbear.com

MOUNTAIN BIKERS take in the view, above; the Alpine Slide at Magic Mountain is open year round, below.

been famous for its golden beaches and glittery Hollywood movies and TV shows. Less renowned but equally vibrant are the places SoCal residents and visitors in the know go to find outdoor fun. From fishing and swimming to skiing and snowboarding, the mountains of San Bernardino County, especially in and around Big Bear Lake, offer year-round alpine action. Nestled in the San Bernardino Mountains 100 miles northeast of Los Angeles and 150 miles northeast of San Diego, the Big Bear Lake area is easily reached by three different roads. Once visitors arrive they find a fine place to unwind, thanks to the clean mountain air, 300 days of sunshine a year, gorgeous reservoir lake and abundant scenic views.

Summer Fun Summertime is prime time to enjoy miles of hiking trails around manmade, sevenmile-long Big Bear Lake reservoir or rent a boat, waterski, hire a Jeep for off-road driving, go paddle boarding, kayaking, parasailing and fish for rainbow trout. You can take off-road Segway tours and helicopter tours. Fourth of July features spectacular fireworks above the lake. There’s family fun at the Big Bear Alpine Zoo, where 85 species of injured or orphaned wildlife are rehabilitated before release; it’s one of only two American alpine zoos. If all this tuckers you

114 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

out, take the Scenic Sky Chair at Big Bear Mountain Resort to 8,200-foot Snow Summit, kick back at the Skyline Taphouse and drink it all in.

Fall Colors In autumn, crisp, comfortably cool air blankets the area and brings out the fall colors. From mid-September through October, locals and visitors alike ﬂock to Oktoberfest, held in the spacious Big Bear Lake Convention Center. German food is served, German bands play oompah tunes (think tubas) and German beer is on tap.

Winter Snowplay Skiing and snowboarding rule in winter. Elevations range from 6,700 feet to 10,000 feet and the region clocks a yearly average of 100 inches of snow at Big Bear Mountain Resort and aptly named Snow Summit. Alpine Slide, in the Magic Mountain Recreation Area, oﬀers a quarter-mile long concrete bobsled experience.

Spring Adventure Season Warming springtime temperatures bring a profusion of delicate wildflowers and the lake opens up for excellent fishing. Popular outdoor activities such as hiking, rock climbing, zip-lining and mountain biking return after winter’s hibernation. It’s also a good time to go off-roading via jeep through Holcomb Valley.

BIG BEAR LAKE

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA HAS LONG

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LOS ANGELES COUNTY A place where dreams come true

BY JACQUELINE YAU

TOP CITIES Los Angeles, West Hollywood, Burbank, Santa Monica, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Venice, Redondo Beach, Marina del Rey

DOMESTIC GATEWAYS Long Beach Airport (LGB), 24 miles (38 km) from downtown LA; Hollywood Burbank Airport (BUR), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown LA

“T

here is something to be said for having even unrealistic dreams,” says celebrated Whiplash and La La Land writer/director Damien Chazelle. “Even if the dreams

don’t come true—that to me is what’s beautiful about Los Angeles. It’s full of these people who have moved there to chase these dreams. A lot of those people are told by people around them that they’re crazy, or that they’re living in la la land.”

TOURISM WEBSITES discoverlosangeles.com visitwesthollywood.com lovebeverlyhills.com downtownla.com visitpasadena.com visitredondo.com visitmarinadelrey.com santamonica.com

The City of Angels is the land of reinvention. Los Angeles County attracts seekers, dreamers, hustlers and wannabe actors/screenwriters/directors. Most come from somewhere else and are looking for a better life. Persistent optimism and self-expressiveness permeate the air. Thanks to the Beach Boys harmonizing about California girls, beach party movies of the ‘60s and TV shows like Baywatch, many people think of Los Angeles as palm trees swaying in warm breezes, endless

POPULATION 10.17 million

beaches and bikini-clad women. But LA is far more complex. It’s a mix of old and new, from cuisine to culture to ideas. The creativity and LOS ANGELES COUNTY

diversity of the region are reﬂected in the more than 100 museums focused on the odd to the divine, the vibrant global street art and the constant evolution of the food scene.

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ONEINCHPUNCH/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MATT MARRIOTT/DISCOVER LA

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 19 miles (31 km) from downtown LA

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SPECIAL

MUST

» EVENTS 2019

THE HOLLYWOOD REEL INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL Screens new feature films, documentaries, shorts and videos by emerging filmmakers. Feb. 1-20 at multiple venues and locations in Los Angeles. hollywoodreelindependentfilmfestival.com LOS ANGELES COMEDY FESTIVAL The nation’s largest comedy festival features film, live comedy acts and a screenplay competition. Held twice a year at Let Live Theatre in Los Angeles. April 4-14, Nov. 7-17. lacomedyfest.com FESTIVAL OF BOOKS Meet hundreds of literary lights and browse the booths at one of the largest book festivals in the country. The Los Angeles Times Festival of Books celebrates its 24th year. April 13-14 at USC. events.latimes.com/festivalofbooks LA FOOD FEST Follow your nose to this annual festival celebrating more than 100 of LA’s food vendors, from top chefs and renowned restaurants to gourmet food trucks and street food stalls. Sample libations too, including craft cocktails and tequila. See website for date, location and other details. lafoodfest.com LOTUS FESTIVAL This 39th annual celebration at Echo Park Lake celebrates the Asian American community in Los Angeles. Enjoy live music, food, dance and dragon boat races set against a backdrop of blooming lotus flowerbeds. Typically in July at Echo Park Lake in Los Angeles. See website for details. facebook.com/lotusfestivalla 626 NIGHT MARKET Inspired by the bustling Asian night markets, this evening bazaar will spice up your senses with more than 200 food vendors (tempting your taste buds with skewers of beef, spiraled fried potatoes, stinky tofu and mango shave ice), performers and retail booths. Entering its eighth year, this Asian-food festival is usually held on four weekends in the summer at Santa Anita Park in Arcadia. 626nightmarket.com THE ABBOT KINNEY FESTIVAL Founded in 1984, this eco-conscious artisan and food festival attracts many to this bohemian-chic area in Venice. Located on a one-mile stretch on Abbot Kinney Blvd. from Venice Blvd. to Main Street. Sept. 29 in Venice. abbotkinney.org WEST HOLLYWOOD CARNAVAL Every Oct. 31 along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood, more than 500,000 people attend the world’s largest Halloween street party. Dress up in your favorite costume and prepare to dance the night away. visitwesthollywood.com/halloween-carnaval

CATCHING SUN ON A ROOFTOP in downtown Los Angeles, below; fun at the beach in Santa Monica, opposite.

SEE, DO

Hollywood Walk Of Fame Launched on Hollywood Boulevard at Vine Street in 1958, this constellation of coral-pink terrazzo and brass sidewalk stars honors film legends past and present. Among the first honorees were Burt Lancaster and Joanne Woodward—in 1994, Sophia Loren became the 2,000th star. Today there are more than 2,600 stars, with typically two added monthly to the 15-block stretch of the boulevard. Millions of visitors come every year to find their favorite actors, directors, musicians and other entertainment luminaries. › walkoffame.com

Santa Monica Pier Savor a Will Rogers Hot Fudge Brownie Sundae, ride a vintage carousel, view the area from the Ferris wheel (a movie celebrity in its own right) and explore the theme park on this century-old pier. Snap a selﬁe by the End of the Trail sign on the pier for the legendary Route 66, which ends its 2,450-mile journey here. › santamonicapier.org

Olvera Street Known as the birthplace of Los Angeles, this section of LA was the town center during the colonial era under Spanish and Mexican rule through most of the 19th century. Some vendors are the descendants of the original merchants in this marketplace, established in 1930 to preserve and bring back “old Los Angeles” and its customs. Absorb the scent of tacos and sounds of mariachi music amid the street stalls and old structures. Browse lucha libre (Mexican wrestling) masks, Day of the Dead ﬁgurines, piñatas and other souvenirs in this block-long Mexican marketplace located in Los Angeles Plaza Historic District. › olvera-street.com

Venice Beach Boardwalk This 1.5-mile pathway parallels the Pacific Ocean and is like a neverending carnival of LA’s most outrageous characters. Stroll past vendors, and street performers trying to impress you with their breakdancing or juggling. Others may dress up as if every day is Halloween. When you’re ready for a break, visit a restaurant or juice bar, or simply walk down to the beach and soak up some sun. And if you need souvenir T-shirts or trinkets, or an affordable painting or photograph, you’re bound to find it here. › venicebeach.com/the-venice-beach-boardwalk

See Improv, Sketch or Stand-up Comedy

So many great comedians came out of the clubs of Los Angeles, and you can still catch rising stars honing their craft or legendary veterans trying out new material. Notable clubs and improv troupes include The Groundlings, Hollywood Improv Comedy Club, Laugh Factory, Upright Citizens Brigade and Comedy Store. › thecomedybureau.com/los-angeles-comedy-showcalendars › discoverlosangeles.com/blog/comedy-clubs-los-angeles

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VENICE BEACH AND SKATE PARK, left.

start the day by stretching at Bryan Kest’s Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica. Go shopping at cool indie shops featuring local labels and fashionable imports along Venice’s Abbot Kinney Boulevard. Need an outﬁt for an awards show? Head over to Decades on Melrose Avenue, a couture

The Nation’s Largest County

onymous with the movie business, but today

vintage store where many stylists choose

As the most populous county in the nation,

most studios have moved into neighboring

red-carpet gowns for their star clients.

with more than 10 million residents, Los

suburbs such as Burbank and Culver City.

Hungry? Eat at The Griddle Cafe, a

Angeles County comprises 88 cities with

Some of the better-known areas in LA

Sunset Boulevard institution known for its

more than 100 languages spoken within its

County aren’t even cities but rather districts

gigantic pancakes and the steady ﬂow of

4,084 square miles. Geographically, the

or neighborhoods within Los Angeles, such

celebrities lunching there. Or chow down

county is larger than the states of Rhode

as Hollywood, Silver Lake and Venice. In

on a chili dog at Pink’s famous corner stand

Island and Delaware—combined.

contrast, Beverly Hills, home to the most

at Melrose and La Brea avenues. Watch a

The entertainment industry is an integral

expensive residences in the world, and

Lakers or Clippers pro basketball game at

part of the local economy, annually con-

West Hollywood, a welcoming oasis to a

the Staples Center to see stars, both on the

tributing $47 billion to the region. For

diverse community of gays, Russians and

court and in the stands. End the day sip-

decades, the name Hollywood has been syn-

musicians, are cities but completely sur-

ping a cocktail at Chateau Marmont in

rounded by the city of Los Angeles.

West Hollywood, where celebrities meet

» TIP

their agents and studio execs.

Angeles County’s southwest border. Malibu, an exclusive seaside community,

Hollywood

has some of the most alluring stretches of

Conceived originally as an outdoor bill-

LA’S MURALS provide a keen sense

sand in the area. To the north, hikers and

board promoting a housing development

of its UNDERGROUND ART SCENE as

mountain climbers explore trails in the

called Hollywoodland in 1923, the Holly-

creativity bursts off to cover once-

Santa Monica Mountains. To the east, the

wood sign sits on the south side of Mount

blank walls through the city. LA

San Gabriel Mountains rise up to more

Lee in Griﬃth Park—long a symbol that

Weekly calls Los Angeles a “city of

than 10,000 feet above sea level.

this is a place where dreams can come true.

1,000 murals,” saying its “urban

The ﬁrst movie studio, the Nestor

sprawl creates the perfect canvas.”

City & Town

Motion Picture Company, opened in 1911

The Weekly highlights 20 of the

Los Angeles, the second most populous

in Hollywood on the northwest corner of

city’s most groundbreaking murals,

city in the nation at nearly 4 million

Sunset Boulevard and Gower Street. It was

which range from celebrations of

people, dominates the county. Writer

absorbed by the Universal Film Manufac-

Latino culture to interpretations of

Dorothy Parker once quipped, “Los

turing Company, which later became

Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city.”

Universal Studios. By the 1920s, 80 per-

Now, LA’s more than 100 neighborhoods

cent of the world’s ﬁlms were shot in

form a rich cultural stew. Meander around

California.

film heroes: laweekly.com/arts/20-oflas-most-iconic-murals-7927290. For a comprehensive view of the cities murals: muralconservancy.org/murals. Perhaps the best way to see some of the city’s most daring murals is with LA ART TOURS: laarttours.com/graffititour.

Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Art and

Learn more about Tinsel Town’s his-

Fashion Districts, the Latino enclaves

tory, and experience its memorabilia at

around Echo Park, Hollywood’s Laurel

The Hollywood Museum. Or participate in

Canyon, Little Armenia, Thai Town, or

the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and

Melrose District where hipsters shop.

Sciences events and get swept up in the

When in LA, do as the celebs do and

118 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

pre-Oscar buzz.

GABRIELE MALTINTI/SHUTTERSTOCK; SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK. O

INSIDER’S

Seventy miles of beaches run along Los

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GRIFFITH PARK AND OBSERVATORY overlook downtown LA, right.

The Great Outdoors Despite its car culture rap, LA County oﬀers lots of outdoor activities. Rent a bike along the Santa Monica Pier and ride down the path that parallels the ocean, through

and show your stuﬀ at the legendary

Family Fun

Venice and on to Marina del Rey before dou-

Surfrider Beach at Malibu Lagoon State

Check out fossils of saber-toothed cats and

bling back. Pack a picnic lunch and hike

Beach. Explore tide pools and caves at Leo

mammoths that roamed the LA Basin

Echo Mountain in Altadena or the Arroyo

Carrillo State Park. Perhaps watch ﬁlming

during the Ice Age at the Page Museum at

Seco trail system in the San Gabriel Moun-

in progress at Malibu’s Point Dume State

the Rancho La Brea Tar Pits. If the kids are

tains. Sign up for rock-climbing instruction,

Beach, featured in movies such as the Iron

tired of trying to spot stars on Hollywood

or take a surﬁng or stand-up paddle

Man series (2008-2013). It also appeared in

Boulevard, take them to Griﬃth Observa-

boarding lesson from one of the many

the ﬁnal scene of the original Planet of the

tory. Featured in many movies including

surﬁng centers in Santa Monica.

Apes (1968). Or look for California gray

Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the observa-

Explore the county’s varied beaches,

whales during their migrations from

tory is set on the southern slope of Mount

from the famous to the little known, but

December to mid April. Next, wind your

Hollywood in Griﬃth Park, with a view of

bring a sweater if you go early or plan to stay

way down through Topanga Beach and stop

the Hollywood sign and greater LA below.

late. In the summer, moist marine air is

over for a volleyball game at Will Rogers

View exhibits and events on Tuesday

pulled inland and forms a misty cover until

State Beach in Paciﬁc Palisades. Then hop

through Sunday at the Samuel Oschin Plan-

it burns oﬀ by the afternoon, and tempera-

over to Venice and the Strand on Manhattan

etarium and Leonard Nimoy Event Horizon

tures drop with the sunset. Start in Malibu

Beach to people-watch.

Theater, and attend free public star parties monthly at the Observatory from 2 P.M. to 9:45 P.M. Budding astronomers and their

» TOUR MULHOLLAND DRIVE offers spectacular views of the HOLLYWOOD BOWL,

families are encouraged to try out diﬀerent telescopes and talk to amateur astronomers about the sun, moon and planets. Visit the California Science Center that houses the Endeavour, which traveled 123 million miles, the ﬁnal ship to be built in

the LA BASIN and

NASA’s Space Shuttle program. View space

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY.

capsules from the Mercury, Gemini and

It’s about 24 miles from the

Apollo-Soyuz missions. Special exhibits

405 freeway to Highway 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the DOLBY THEATRE, home of

include “Mission 26: ET Comes Home,”

the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles

through the Panama Canal, its arrival in

till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL

OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the “Valley.” Return to Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until you see the HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and

which features moments of ET-94’s trip Marina del Rey, and its journey through the streets of Los Angeles to its new home at the science center. Enjoy the many touchfriendly exhibits such as the High-Wire

walk up to see the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood

Bicycle ($3), which allows the courageous

sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater.

to safely bike along a one-inch wire 43 feet

Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn

above the ground. The gravitational forces

right on Woodrow Wilson and make an immediate right onto

on the counterweight prevent the bicycle

CAHUENGA BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood.

from tipping over and illustrate the center of gravity law.

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ALEXANDRE OLIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK

DRIVE

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MARINA DEL REY LA’s nautical playground shines on land and sea BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

Marina del Rey Visitor Information visitmarinadelrey.com

MARINA DEL REY is an oasis on the Los Angeles coast, above; waterfront dining is a year-round option, below.

Family-Friendly Entertainment

south and bustling Venice to the north,

Views of passing watercraft grace the

Marina del Rey is an oasis of calm that has

walking path and picnic tables at Burton

spent much of 2018 enhancing its water-

Chace Park, where summer brings free con-

front pleasures.

certs and movies as well as the popular

This unincorporated patch of Los Angeles

Fourth of July ﬁreworks. Come December,

County boasts the nation’s largest small-craft

free entertainment includes the Holiday

harbor (eight basins, nearly 5,000 boat slips),

Boat Parade and a family-friendly New

oﬀering a wide variety of ﬁshing trips, harbor

Year’s Eve bash with ﬁreworks.

tours, dining cruises, yacht charters, kayaking

Just over 50 years ago, Marina del Rey

and stand-up paddling. Mesmerizing harbor

was an estuary frequented only by local

views from most of its restaurants, which

duck hunters and ﬁshermen. First envi-

oﬀer year-round outdoor dining, make it a

sioned in 1887, the harbor ﬁnally became

prime attraction even for landlubbers.

reality in 1965, though some wetlands

While popular ocean beaches are found nearby in Venice and Santa Monica, Marina

122 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

remain in the adjacent Ballona Wetlands Ecological Reserve.

del Rey’s small and rarely crowded Marina

Just next door, Venice oﬀers an array of

Beach (a.k.a. Mother’s Beach) in the harbor

unique shops and restaurants on popular

is a big draw. Families especially appreciate

Abbot Kinney Boulevard. Visitors can also

the ﬂat water, water sports and playground.

glimpse LA’s quirkier side at world-famous

Beach Eats, a summer congregation of food

Venice Beach, where weight-lifters, artists

trucks, inaugurated a concert series in 2018,

and would-be rock stars hold forth and

while the returning ARTsea festival in May

eccentric characters bike and rollerblade

brings two days of art and music.

the boardwalk every day.

MARINA DEL REY CVB

CRUISE, FISH, » PADDLE, DINE!

TUCKED BETWEEN hectic LAX to the

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ORANGE COUNTY Exquisite beaches, diverse cities, and thriving arts scenes mark this Southern California county

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL TOP CITIES Anaheim, Buena Park, Costa Mesa, Fullerton, Garden Grove, Huntington Beach, Irvine, Laguna Beach, Newport Beach, Orange, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, San Clemente INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY John Wayne/Orange County Airport (SNA), located at the juncture of Costa Mesa, Santa Ana and Newport Beach near I-405

ays when Disneyland, 42 miles of idyllic beaches and swaths of orange groves were all that lifted “The O.C.” out of Los Angeles’ shadow are long gone. Orange County today is a diverse collection

of cities counting famous surf breaks, historic missions, art colonies and scenic marinas among its attractions. While beach towns—from surf-centric Huntington Beach to tony Newport to artsy Laguna to serene San Clemente—still embody the casual,

TOURISM WEBSITES visittheoc.com visitanaheim.org visitbuenapark.com travelcostamesa.com surfcityusa.com destinationirvine.com visitlagunabeach.com visitnewportbeach.com sanjuancapistrano.org

creative California of popular imagination, inland cities have grown into

POPULATION

Packing House food market, has distinguished itself from the Magic

3,190,400

Kingdom. About 30 percent of OC residents hail from another country, and

shopping, entertainment and sports meccas. Irvine—encompassing a University of California campus, the evolving Orange County Great Park and several “villages”—was the vanguard of a trend toward master-planned communities in recent decades. Defying the suburban stereotype, Orange County cities possess distinct personalities. Even Anaheim, with its modern convention center, revival of the historic Center Street Promenade commerce district, and bustling

English is a second language for 45 percent; Little Saigon is the largest Vietnamese community outside of Vietnam. A true melting pot, the county hosts a dizzying array of ethnic food, festivals, markets and cultural events. ORANGE COUNTY

Performance venues such as the Orange County Performing Arts Center and the South Coast Repertory are sprinkled throughout the county. Destination shopping malls, including Irvine Spectrum, Costa Mesa’s South

124 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

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MUST

SEE, DO

Disneyland Resort Walt Disney would hardly recognize his “happiest place on Earth” today. At California Adventure, Marvel’s “Guardians of the Galaxy—Mission Breakout” replaced the Tower of Terror, and the new Pixar Pier overtook the former Paradise Pier with an “Incredicoaster” and Pixarthemed neighborhoods; a new Inside Out neighborhood is due this summer. In the original park, part of Frontierland gives way to the hotly anticipated Star Wars Land this year, bringing such adventures as a secret mission on the Millennium Falcon and an allout intergalactic battle. › disneyland.disney.go.com

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB; CHRIS COSTEA; NEWPORT BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: TKK STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

TWO SURFERS walking into the ocean on a summer day, opposite; Huntington Beach, left; Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall in Costa Mesa, top; Newport Beach Harbor, above.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 DANA POINT WHALE FESTIVAL March 2-3, 9-10, Dana Point festivalofwhales.org

Orange County Great Park The 1,300-acre park slowly evolving from the former El Toro Marine Corps Air Station is already a popular family destination. In addition to 2017’s opening of the first phase of a 194acre sports park (stadium, soccer fields, tennis and volleyball courts; baseball and softball fields to come), 200 acres already were occupied by the now-iconic orange Great Park Balloon rising 400 feet into the air, a hand-painted carousel, a Kids Rock play area, a hands-on Farm + Food Lab, Palm Court Arts Complex gallery and studios, a shaded performance plaza, and a weekly farmers market. One of the nation’s largest public ice facilities was scheduled to open in December 2018. › cityofirvine.org/orange-county-great-park

Lot 579, Huntington Beach Just south of “Surf City’s” downtown, steps from Huntington Beach Pier and the city’s famous sands, the sidewalk cafés and markets of this waterfront food hall offer a delicious variety of towering gourmet sandwiches, fresh fish, authentic Aussie meat pies, gelato on a stick and other treats. Lot 579 is an anchor of Pacific City, the two-yearold shopping, dining and entertainment complex whose Craftsman-style bungalows pay homage to the early oceanfront village that became Huntington Beach. The communal space upstairs offers plenty of seating and a killer ocean view. › gopacificcity.com/lot-579

Laguna Beach and Pageant of the Masters

HUNTINGTON BEACH 4TH OF JULY PARADE & FIREWORKS July 4, Huntington Beach www.hb4thofjuly.org

Art literally comes to life in the unique Pageant of the Masters, in which living actors take up positions against painted backdrops to re-create world masterpieces in eerie 3-D ﬁdelity. It’s the pièce de résistance among the festivals, workshops, galleries and proliferation of public art in the picturesque beach town that began life in the early 1900s as a small artists’ colony. › visitlagunabeach.com › foapom.com

PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS July 7-Aug. 31, Laguna Beach foapom.com

SWALLOWS’ DAY PARADE AND MERCADO STREET FAIRE March 23, San Juan Capistrano swallowsparade.com BATTLE OF THE MARIACHIS May 18, Mission San Juan Capistrano missionsjc.com SAWDUST ART FESTIVAL June 28-Sept. 1, Laguna Beach sawdustartfestival.org

TALL SHIPS FESTIVAL Sept. 6-8, Dana Point Harbor tallshipsfestival.com NEWPORT BEACH CHRISTMAS BOAT PARADE Dec. 18-22, Newport Beach christmasboatparade.com

Old Towne Orange Not to be missed in this square mile of Early California homes, sporting handsome Victorian, Craftsman, Bungalow and Spanish architecture, is the Old Towne Orange Walking Food Tour. The county’s oldest operating bank and soda fountain can also be found among the locally owned shops, galleries, fountains and pretty sidewalk cafés. › iheartoldtowneorange.com

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Coast Plaza and Fashion Island in

City & Town

Newport Beach, vie with dozens of

Anaheim is the largest of Orange

local shopping districts.

County’s 34 cities. None has a typical

Sports fans cheer the Los Angeles

downtown,

though

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Huntington

Angels at the Angel Stadium of Ana-

Beach oﬀers a vibrant seaside city

As Orange County’s seat, second-

heim and the Anaheim Ducks hockey

center. History buﬀs gravitate to San

most populous city and home to

team at Honda Center, which doubles

Juan Capistrano’s beautifully preserved 18th-century mission, Yorba

JOHN

as a big-name concert venue. More than 40 championship courses and a

Linda’s Nixon Presidential Library

temperate climate await golfers,

and the restored Victorian homes

image more businesslike than

while hotel and day spas stand ready

and historic city centers in Santa Ana

fun. However, residents treasure

to soothe aches and tone muscles.

and Orange.

their artsy downtown with its

WAYNE

INTERNATIONAL

AIRPORT, Santa Ana projects an

funky galleries, theaters, folk-art shops and inexpensive sidewalk cafés. Start a journey into Santa Ana’s bohemian side at the 10block ARTISTS VILLAGE, anchored by Cal State Fullerton’s GRAND CENTRAL ART CENTER with its theater, dance studios, edgy galleries and artists’ live-work spaces. Just outside, go galleryhopping around the SECOND STREET

PROMENADE,

which

serves as the village’s leafy, fountain-studded

central

courtyard. For a broader sense of the downtown arts scene, the ﬁrst Saturday of the month brings ARTWALK, when more than 20 galleries open their doors at 6 p.m. Trees twinkling with lights, street vendors and corner musicians, and live arts performances provide a festive atmosphere for glimpses into art studios and design workshops. grandcentralartcenter.com dtsaartwalk.org

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LAGUNA BEACH OCEAN VIEW, opposite; catching a wave, left; Cars Land at Disney California Adventure, below.

The Great Outdoors The coastline with its world-famous surf spots (Huntington Beach, the Wedge at Newport Beach, Trestles in San Clemente), yacht harbors (Newport Beach, Dana Point) and protected areas (Crystal Cove State

CHRISTOPHER HALLORAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; CITYPASS. OPPOSITE: PETER KUNASZ/SHUTTERSTOCK

Park’s underwater reserve, the wetlands of California’s ﬁrst state beach, Doheny) are just the beginning of Orange County’s natural wonders. Inland canyons and parks

DRIVE

» TOUR

teem with wildlife and hiking and biking trails, such as Irvine’s 300-acre San Joaquin Wildlife Sanctuary.

The most scenic drive, best attempted on weekdays

Family Fun

between rush hours, follows

Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm are a

Highway 1 along the coastline

given, but don’t overlook fun at Sky Zone

from SAN CLEMENTE to LONG

Anaheim’s indoor trampolines and Pre-

BEACH. Stop in the popular

tend City Children’s Museum in Irvine,

towns of LAGUNA BEACH,

where kids go to “work,” collect their pay

NEWPORT BEACH or

from ATMs and buy groceries. Santa Ana’s

HUNTINGTON BEACH—or all

Discovery Science Center oﬀers more than

three—for a taste of the

100 hands-on exhibits, and Dana Point’s

casual, diverse Southern

Ocean Institute runs marine science and

California beach scene.

history expeditions on a tall ship or a research vessel.

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NORTH COAST Victorian villages, picturesque fishing harbors and the world’s tallest trees

BY JOHN FLINN

TOP CITIES Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg, Garberville, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

TOURISM WEBSITES delnorte.org exploredelnorte.com northcoastca.com visitredwoods.com visitmendocino.com

his should put things in perspective: The North Coast’s tallest building is only 77 feet tall, but its tallest tree stands 379 feet tall. Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s hard to

grasp just how neck-craningly high a coastal redwood tree can grow. These 3,000-year-old arboreal titans—nature’s loftiest skyscrapers—grow in only one place in the world: a narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along California’s wild and relatively unvisited North Coast.

The Redwood Highway POPULATION 782,000

Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung along Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway. In southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park straddles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In northern Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks—

NORTH COAST

Redwood National Park (which turned 50 last year) and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parks—form one contiguous redwood reserve.

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ADRI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JEJIM/SHUTTERSTOCK

GATEWAY The Arcata-Eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco and other hubs, but no international flights

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MUST

SEE, DO

Forest Tracks Built in 1885 to haul redwood logs from the tangled backcountry to coastal sawmills, the iconic Skunk Train now carries passengers on two diﬀerent runs starting at Fort Bragg and the inland town of Willits, respectively. The shorter coastal route snakes along the Novo River canyon, through redwood groves and past an old logging camp. And don’t worry: The train’s name derives from an original, stinky gasoline engine that long ago was consigned to the junkyard. › skunktrain.com

Boulevard of Big Trees The Avenue of the Giants is a 31-mile detour from Highway 101 that weaves in and out of lofty, old-growth redwood trees like a slalom course. The route takes you through the heart of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, one of the best places along the North Coast to gaze up in awe. Sunnier and drier than redwood parks farther to the north, it’s less tangled with undergrowth, making it easier to wander and wonder. › avenueofthegiants.net

Community Forest Arcata, with a town square lined with a mixture of hippie-chic boutiques, eclectic restaurants and old-time lumberjack bars, is home to Humboldt State University. Spend some time wandering its community forest and the innovative wastewater treatment facility that has become a thriving sanctuary for migratory birds. › cityofarcata.org

HUMBOLDT COUNTY SHORE, above; the “Pink Lady” Victorian in Eureka, right.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing sawmills that once dominated the North Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber industry winds down. In former mill

Once a seedy skid row, EUREKA’S

towns such as Fort Bragg, tourism is

WATERFRONT has been

replacing timber as innovative galleries,

transformed into the city’s

restaurants and brew-pubs spring to life.

liveliest and most inviting district,

Although it’s sometimes called the

with Victorian storefronts

Redwood Empire, the North Coast is

housing restaurants, galleries,

more than just tall trees: It’s also salmon-

shops and museums, all crowned

ﬁshing boats bobbing in tiny harbors;

by the iconic CARSON MANSION,

Roosevelt elk bugling across misty

a masterpiece of over-the-top

meadows; steam trains chuﬃng through

Victorian opulence.

a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-the-

eurekaoldtown.com

wall restaurants serving ﬁsh smoked according to traditional Native American

Big Eats To satisfy a lumberjack-sized appetite, drive across Humboldt Bay on the Samoa Bridge to the Samoa Cookhouse for colossal, allyou-can-eat meals served family style. The last surviving cookhouse of its kind in the U.S., it’s been serving hungry mill workers, longshoremen and tourists since 1890. › samoacookhouse.net

Victorian Hamlet Gaily painted Victorian mansions line the streets of Ferndale, an idyllic hamlet on the Eel River delta in southern Humboldt County. Lovingly preserved, they give the town a turn-of-the-last-century look that has proven irresistible to Hollywood. More than a dozen movies have been ﬁlmed here. Main Street’s shops keep the Victorian theme going, with old-fashioned mercantiles and even a blacksmith shop. Cradled between two redwood forests, the entire town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. › victorianferndale.com

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recipes; vineyards close enough to the coast to catch the salt spray; an old Russian trading fort; handsome Victorian villages; possible glimpses of the elusive creature known as Bigfoot; wealthy, tie-dyed growers of the region’s largest cash crop, which California voters recently legalized; and bouts of creative madness such as elaborate sculptures racing across the landscape. For generations, the North Coast was said to be on the far side of the “redwood curtain,” the psychological barrier formed by narrow, tortuous Highway 101, which ROOSEVELT BULL ELK at Prairie Creek

was little more than a two-lane conduit for

Redwoods State Park, Humboldt County,

heavily-laden logging trucks. But Cali-

above; Drive-Thru Tree Park, Leggett, left;

fornia has spent the last two decades

Battery Point Lighthouse, Crescent City,

improving the road—straightening curves,

bottom; walking with sheep in the vineyards

widening it in many places to four lanes—

of Pennyroyal Farmstead, Boonville,

and now the road is an easy drive.

Mendocino County, opposite.

» TOUR From the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE, head over to the SONOMA COAST

EUREKA

at BODEGA BAY (yes, that Bodega Bay: Alfred Hitchcock filmed The Birds there), and follow dramatic, winding Highway 1 north past the

HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE PARK

AVENUE OF THE GIANTS LEGGETT

old Russian fort, FORT ROSS, and Sea Ranch, GUALALA, MENDOCINO and FORT BRAGG before heading inland to connect with Highway

MENDOCINO

101—“The Redwood Highway”—at

LEGGETT, site of the DRIVE-THRU TREE PARK. Continuing north on the Redwood Highway, you’ll come to HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE

GUALALA

FORT ROSS BODEGA BAY

PARK and the AVENUE OF THE GIANTS, EUREKA and the cluster of redwood parks extending almost to the Oregon border.

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SAN FRANCISCO

KRIS WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK; EVENFH/SHUTTERSTOCK; CARRIE EPLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KERRICK JAMES

DRIVE

CRESCENT CITY

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SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 City & Town Transplanted New Englanders founded the town of Mendocino on a rocky bluﬀ above the crashing Paciﬁc Ocean, and it still

WHALES AND WINE Gray whales pass by Mendocino in November on their way south for the winter. At the Mendocino Whale Festival, you can sample all manner of chowder, locally brewed beer and wine, while—with any luck—the passing cetaceans spout just oﬀ the Mendocino headlands. March 2-3 mendowhale.com

sports a whitewashed Cape Cod look. Once a mill town, it went into decay in the 1930s

KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE Peripatetic artists of genius or possibly borderline sanity

as the local timber trade waned but was

gather each Memorial Day weekend to race giant, whimsical, people-powered sculptures

rediscovered in the 1960s by bohemians

from Arcata to Ferndale along a 40-mile course that includes a crossing of Humboldt

and artists. On the shore of Humboldt Bay,

Bay. It’s called “the triathalon of the art world.” May 25-27 kineticgrandchampionship.com

Eureka, the largest town on the North Coast, has also reversed decades of decline

BIGFOOT DAYS The earliest and most persistent sightings of that elusive creature known as Bigfoot have happened around the Siskiyou Mountain town of Willow Creek.

and turned its waterfront Old Town into an

Each year on Labor Day weekend, the community fetes its furry friend with Bigfoot Days.

inviting Victorian district of galleries, bou-

Don’t expect to see the big guy himself, but you’ll encounter a number of people who

tiques and cafés. Crescent City was

claim to have met him. Oct. 31 bigfootcountry.net

virtually wiped oﬀ the map by a tsunami in 1964. Rebuilt now, it sports a smattering of hotels and motels that make it a good base for exploring nearby Jedediah Smith Red-

SYMPHONY OF THE REDWOODS For more than 30 years, this organization has brought a wide variety of classical performances to the North Coast, including a seasonal concert series in Fort Bragg. Six dates between Jan. 20 and April 28 symphonyoftheredwoods.org

woods State Park.

Heritage & Culture Native American tribes such as the Yurok and Hoopa lived along the North Coast for centuries before the arrival of fur trappers—both Russians working their way down from Alaska and American mountain men such as Jedediah Smith coming overland. For more than two centuries, resource extraction—primarily logging— was the region’s economic engine. As dwindling forests and stricter environmental laws took their tolls starting in the 1970s, the North Coast has transitioned to tourism as its mainstay.

Family Fun Young children might have trouble fully appreciating the timelessness of an ancient redwood tree, but they’ll enjoy a gondola ride through the silent forest canopy and a chance to have their picture taken with four-story-high statues of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. Look for it at Trees of Mystery, near the town of Klamath.

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HUMBOLDT COUNTY Land of the world’s tallest trees

EXPLORE, DINE,

» TOUR, HIKE

Eureka-Humboldt Visitors Bureau visitredwoods.com

VISITORS HEAD TO THE FAR northwest

However, much of the shore is easily

corner of California for the tallest red-

accessible and lined with windswept dunes

woods—indeed the tallest trees anywhere

that stretch for miles. Take the drive along

in the world—but what pulls them under

the South Spit of Humboldt Bay, a narrow

Humboldt County’s spell is everything else:

ﬁnger of dunes that separate the bay from

the pristine coast, pastoral valleys, old

the ocean, a bit of paradise for birders,

timber towns and a laid-back atmosphere

surfers or walkers packing a picnic. Out in

that evolved from its long-thriving (and

the waters, about 70 percent of California’s

now largely legal) cannabis culture.

oysters are cultivated.

Start your trip with a walk in those

HUMBOLDT COUNTY’S 110 MILES of dramatic coastline is part of the Redwood Coast, above; hiking among the world’s tallest trees soothes the soul, below.

famous redwoods. The biggest payoﬀ is in

Historic Architecture

Humboldt Redwoods State Park where

Step back into time in Ferndale, a

Rockefeller Grove holds 10 of the world’s 16

preserved Victorian village that is on the

tallest trees, including spectacular stands

National Register of Historic Places. Once

along Bull Creek. And, 2019 marks a

a farming and dairy town, today its shop-

centennial: it was in 1919 that women of

lined streets nestled in a green valley are

Humboldt County started a campaign to

so picture-perfect they are used as movie

preserve old-growth redwoods.

backdrops.

Open Spaces

seat of Eureka, which is easier to reach with

The county’s gorgeous array of open spaces

new non-stop ﬂights to Los Angeles and in

will compete for your time but don’t miss

June 2019 non-stops to Denver.

An ideal base for visitors is the county

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Patrick’s Point, where seals, sea lions and

The city’s Old Town was recently named

whales can be watched from rocky spots

a state cultural district due to its thriving arts

above the Paciﬁc.

scene and Friday Night Markets. Board the

Humboldt is also home to the Lost Coast,

Madeket, the oldest continually operating

an isolated stretch that is so diﬃcult to

passenger vessel in the U.S., for a narrated

reach that engineers who built Highway 1

tour of natural wonders and history that

a hundred years ago—another 2019

make this far corner of California—named

centennial—avoided it and joined Highway

by Lonely Planet as the top U.S. Travel

1 with inland Highway 101 instead.

destination in 2018—so alluring.

DON FORTHUBER, HUMBOLDT COUNTY CVB, VISITREDWOODS.COM; BOB VON NORMANN, HUMBOLDT COUNTY CVB, VISITREDWOODS.COM

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

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HIGH SIERRA The Range of Light provides peace, tranquility and countless recreational activities

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES South Lake Tahoe, Truckee, Tahoe City, Bishop, Mammoth Lakes, Oakhurst, Madera INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO), 3 miles from Reno, Nevada city center

“O

f all the mountain ranges I have climbed,” wrote John

Muir, “I like the Sierra Nevada the best.” His pet name for it was “The Range of Light.” It’s not just the ethereal lumi-

nosity of the glacially polished granite that drew the renowned naturalist—and continues to draw people—to the Sierra again and

POPULATION 600,000

again. It’s the pristine lakes and rivers, the dramatic hiking and biking trails, the contrast between the green meadows and stony battlements. The Sierra Nevada may be one of the highest and most majestic mountain ranges in North America, but it’s also one of the most accessible and user-friendly. Stretching 400 miles from north to south, and about 70 from east to west, it’s crossed by seven highways—four of them open all year—and encompasses everything from Lake Tahoe—where you might ﬁnd yourself crowding shoulder-to-shoulder around a boisterous craps table—to remote canyons in Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks where you can spend a silent and solitary afternoon watching Muir’s favorite bird, the water ouzel, plunge into waterfalls and cascades. In a state with no shortage of superlatives, the region has more than its share: It can boast the world’s oldest tree, the world’s most

HIGH SIERRA

massive tree, the Old West’s largest ghost town, the nation’s highest waterfall and—until Alaska came along and rewrote the record books—the nation’s highest peak.

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KATELEIGH/ISTOCKPHOTO. OPPOSITE: ANJELIKAGR/SHUTTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES travelyosemite.com visitinglaketahoe.com tahoesouth.com yosemitethisyear.com visitmammoth.com gotahoenorth.com

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The range is home to three national

Geographically speaking, the mountain

parks, 15 state parks, two national monu-

range is pretty much one big chunk of gra-

ments

designated

nite tilted like a badly placed brick in a

wilderness areas. Hikers get itchy feet at the

cobblestone street: It’s gently sloped on the

mere mention of its celebrated walking

west side and quite steep on the east, lower

paths: the John Muir Trail; the Tahoe Rim

in the north and higher in the south. Keep

Trail; the Paciﬁc Crest Trail; the Tahoe-Yose-

that in mind when choosing a hiking trail:

mite Trail. At the drop of winter’s ﬁrst

for an easier amble, look to the north and

snowﬂake, skiers begin making plans for

west; for a challenging ascent, head south

the three premier ski resorts on America’s

and east.

and

oﬃcially

West Coast: Squaw Valley (site of the 1960

MUST

SEE, DO

Oldest Trees Bristlecone pines growing

high in the White Mountains are the world’s oldest trees, some surviving nearly 5,000 years.

Winter Olympics), Heavenly and Mammoth

City & Town

To visit them, follow Highway 168 for 26 miles

Mountain. Streams rushing down the

Now connected by gondola to the Heavenly

east from the town of Big Pine. An easy, mile-long

range’s sheer east slope into the Owens

ski resort, the bustling town of South Lake

trail winds through the Schulman Grove.

Valley are renowned for their ﬂy ﬁshing.

Tahoe, located on the lakeshore and the

›

bishopvisitor.com/activities/bristlecone-forest

Climbing “California’s Everest” At

14,495-feet, Mount Whitney is the highest summit in the lower 48 states. It is also, surprisingly, the most frequently climbed peak in California— thanks to a well-graded, 11-mile trail to the top. Very ﬁt hikers make it up and down in one long, arduous day. Sounds tough, but it’s so popular there’s a lottery for the coveted permits.

›

nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/whitney.htm

Mountain Hamlet The picturesque town

of Markleeville (pop. 210) is the largest metropolis in Alpine County, California’s least populated county. It makes a great base for ﬁshing excursions and for soaking up the Sierra’s version of fall colors—the turning of the aspens.

›

alpinecounty.com/area-info/markleeville-woodfords

The Wild, Wild West Possibly the Old

West’s most notorious mining town, Bodie now

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019

exists in a state of “arrested decay” on a high, windswept plain northeast of Yosemite. It’s one of America’s most extensive ghost towns.

›

www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=509

“LIGHTS ON THE LAKE,” held each Fourth of July at South Lake Tahoe, is the largest

synchronized ﬁreworks show west of the Mississippi. July 4 tahoesouth.com

Galen Rowell was the Ansel Adams of the

Mountain Light The late photographer

Kodachrome era. Stop by his Mountain Light With past participants such as Justin Timberlake, Steph Curry and Michael Jordan, South Lake

gallery in Bishop to see mountain images both

Tahoe’s AMERICAN CENTURY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP has been called the “Super Bowl

iconic and surprising, from Rowell and other

of Celebrity Sports.” July 9-14 americancenturychampionship.com

adventure photographers.

›

mountainlight.com

The hundreds of Hollywood westerns and other movies ﬁlmed in and around Lone Pine, from 1925’s Riders of the Purple Sage to 2008’s Ironman, are celebrated by the LONE PINE FILM FESTIVAL. Oct. 12-14 lonepineﬁlmfestival.org

YOSEMITE VALLEY, opposite; outdoor dining in South Lake Tahoe, above left.

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Nevada border, has seen an injection of energy and interest in recent years, with new restaurants, shops and galleries. With a large inventory of hotel rooms and a cluster of hotel-casinos just a few steps over the border, it’s a good bet for inexpensive lodging. In Truckee, a handsome old railroad and lumber town between Donner Pass and Squaw Valley, a collection of Old West historic buildings along Commercial Row now houses busy restaurants and bars, some adorned with portraits of gunslingers and desperadoes. Farther south, sprawling Bishop sports the Owens Valley’s most extensive collection of lodging, dining and resupply outlets.

The Great Outdoors

DRIVE

» TOUR

Just a few hours’ drive from San Francisco or Los Angeles, the Sierra Nevada has been California’s outdoor playground almost since the arrival of the original 49ers. In scopes watch the progress of climbers inching their way up the impossibly sheer granite walls. Tempted to try it? Sign up for an introductory class at the Yosemite Mountaineering School—or at least treat yourself to a “Go Climb a Rock” T-shirt. With some of the most reliably sunny summer weather of any major mountain range, the High Sierra is a hiker’s paradise, from easy day walks in the Desolation

Highway 120 is a magical mystery tour through the heart of Yosemite National Park’s exquisite high country. From the handsome old mining town of GROVELAND, follow 120 east into the park (HETCH HETCHY, the fraternal twin of Yosemite Valley

Wilderness to challenging, multi-week journeys through Kings Canyon and Sequoia national parks. Skiers have their

that was dammed to provide San Francisco’s water supply, is a short side trip) past

choice of world-class venues, from

the TUOLUMNE GROVE of giant sequoias and up into the rarefied alpine world.

beginner-friendly Granlibakken to the

Pull over at OLMSTED POINT to view HALF DOME from an angle you’ve never seen

double-diamond chutes of Squaw Valley

before. You’ll traverse TUOLUMNE MEADOWS, the jumping-off point for some of

and Heavenly. In summer, many of the

Yosemite’s finest hiking trails, and cross 9,943-foot TIOGA PASS before descending

resorts—particularly Northstar and Mam-

three-quarters of a vertical mile to shimmering MONO LAKE.

moth—convert their lifts and gondolas to carry mountain bikes.

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LARRY HABEGGER. OPPOSITE: MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM; KYLE MCLAURIN; MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM

Yosemite Valley, spectators with tele-

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Heritage & Culture

steep hike from Tioga Pass in Yosemite.

Native Americans, pioneer emigrants and

You’ll ﬁnd the remains of old miners’

gold miners all left their marks on the High

cabins, but exercise care around the shafts,

Sierra—often literally. At Grinding Rock

several of which remain open and

State Historic Park near the town of Twain

unfenced.

BACKPACKING THE HIGH COUNTRY in Yosemite National Park, opposite; skiing at Mammoth, below; star gazing at Sonora Pass, center; Bodie Ghost Town church, bottom.

Harte, Miwok Indians once ground acorns on an outcrop of marbleized limestone. The

Family Fun

1,185 mortar holes they left behind consti-

If the kids aren’t yet ready for full-on cam-

tute the largest such collection in North

ping, Lake Tahoe has two old-timey resorts

America. In the Hope Valley, just south of

with knotty-pine cabins scattered in the

Lake Tahoe, you can still see ruts in the

trees near the lakeshore, bike and paddle-

rocks left by the covered wagons of settlers

boat rentals and ice cream parlors. Camp

on the Emigrant Trail. The shafts of

Richardson is on the west shore, near

thousands of abandoned mines pockmark

Tahoe City; Zephyr Cove is on the south

the High Sierra. One of the best places to see

shore, just over the border in Nevada.

one is the Great Sierra Mine, a short but

camprichardson.com zephyrcove.com

INSIDER’S

» TIP

For an intimate and unusual exploration of MONO LAKE, rent kayaks to paddle around the weirdly picturesque TUFA

TOWERS and other landmarks. calderakayak.com

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MAMMOTH LAKES Play at the top of California BY BILL FINK

HIKE, FISH, » GOLF, SKI! Mammoth Lakes Visitor Information visitmammoth.com Mammoth Mountain Skiing & More mammothmountain.com junemountain.com

THE MAMMOTH LAKES region sprawls

Snowcreek Golf Courses. Mammoth Lakes

across the mountains, meadows and water-

is so popular for ﬁshing that many local

ways of the Eastern Sierras, providing a

motels feature ﬁsh-cleaning facilities. Fly

spectacular setting for outdoor fun

ﬁshing in streams, and lure-based ﬁshing

throughout the year. Two hours north of

in lakes (including Convict, Crowley and

Mount Whitney, the Continental United

several lakes in Mammoth Lakes Basin)

States’ highest point, and only 45 minutes

give everyone a chance to work on their

from Yosemite’s east entrance, Mammoth

specialty or pick up a new skill. The “grand

is a perfect outdoor playground. And this

slam” of trout—rainbow, brook, brown and

year, with many newly added ﬂights to

golden—await your arrival. Or you can

Mammoth Airport, the area is more acces-

simply paddle a kayak, canoe or stand-up

sible than ever.

paddle board through the lakes and rivers and take in the scenery, and perhaps a his-

138 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Summer Fun

torical tour while ﬂoating in Mono Lake.

In summer sunshine, hikers and bikers can

Explore the wonders of geology at Devils

explore the extensive Mammoth Lakes Trail

Postpile National Monument and gaze at

System, whether it be for rugged multi-day

its towering basalt columns, then cool oﬀ

adventures or a gentle walk through a park.

in the spray of the hundred-foot-tall

Golfers boast about extra-long drives in the

Rainbow Falls nearby. Summer is festival

thin high-elevation air of Sierra Star and

time around Mammoth, with a calendar

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:17 AM Page 139

FALL FISHING AT SILVER LAKE, opposite; kicking up the powder on June Mountain, right; paddle boarding on Silver Lake, below.

ﬁlled with concerts and food and drink gatherings, including the always popular “Blues and Brews” music and beer festival every August.

Winter Adventure As the name suggests, Mammoth Mountain ski resort is gigantic, with terrain descending from multiple peaks providing runs suitable for all levels of skiers. The JOSH WRAY/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM; CHRISTIAN PONDELLA/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM. OPPOSITE: CHRISTIAN PONDELLA/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM

resort creates more than a dozen terrain parks for snowboarders, and hosts regular competitions for those who just want to watch. For the adventurous, 2019 oﬀers new backcountry safety classes, and sidecountry ski tours from the mountain to Tamarack Lodge. The Tamarack Ski Center and the Mammoth Lakes Nordic Trail

Spring Activities

System are destinations for cross-country

Spring around Mammoth Lakes oﬀers great

ski enthusiasts. For non-skiers, the Mam-

deals on lodging and activities for those

moth Lakes area oﬀers dogsled rides,

looking for some late-season sunny skiing

snowmobiling, snowshoe tours, fat-tire

(Mammoth Mountain often stays open past

snow biking and even snowcat rides to

Memorial Day) or some early biking and

scenic picnic spots. Small kids can come to

ﬁshing. Some people tackle the “spring

enjoy Mammoth’s tubing park, winter

triathlon” of skiing, biking and ﬁshing in a

Lake Trail, camping for a couple of days

parades with mascot “Woolly” or a scenic

single day. Spring is also a good time for

amidst the trees at the Sherwin Creek

gondola ride. June Mountain, a 20-mile

birding, when enthusiasts come to spy on

Campground, or even just staying in the car

drive from Mammoth Lakes, is a laid-back

many of the 300 species of local and migra-

and driving the winding mountain roads of

location for downhill fun (and kids 12 and

tory birds that ﬂy through the area,

the June Lake Loop to enjoy the spectacular

under ski free!). If it’s too cold outside, stop

including the horde of 50,000 California

colors of aspen groves and cottonwood

by the new Warming Hut Restaurant for

gulls nesting at Mono Lake each year. The

trees below towering pine forests. The

hearty breakfast and lunches or leave the

new Elixir Superfood and Juice café oﬀers a

adventurous can soar above the colors on

hill for the Mammoth Rock ’n’ Bowl with its

quick, healthy way to start a day exploring

helicopter tours. Or play cowboy and

bowling lanes, golf simulator, and other

the outdoors.

explore the foliage by horseback on daytrips, or multi-day horseback adventures in

games at their bar and restaurant. For more local ﬂavor, try the Eastern Sierra Brewery

Fall Colors

the hills. For a spooky Halloween, or any

Tour of three local microbreweries, or a

Fall foliage is a visual feast around Mam-

quiet day, visit the ghost town within Bodie

whisky tasting at Shelter Distilling, then

moth Lakes. There’s nothing quite like

State Park, the abandoned remnants of a

explore the always lively Mammoth

hiking through the colors in the crisp fall

gold mining settlement about 60 miles

nightlife.

air on the Mammoth Rock Trail or the Heart

north of Mammoth.

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LAKE TAHOE SOUTH SHORE Year-round mountain playground

HIKE, PLAY, » EAT, DANCE! Visitor Information tahoesouth.com skiheavenly.com biketahoe.org americancentury championship.com fs.usda.gov/ltbmu kirkwood.com sierraattahoe.com edgewoodtahoe.com southtahoeairporter.com crazygooddoughnuts.com dragonflybagel.com socialhousetahoe.com basecamptahoesouth.com coachmantahoe.com

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FROM SERENE VIEWS over mirror-ﬂat

Summer

morning waters of Lake Tahoe and the

Summer activity around the South Shore is

gentle footfall of hikers on pine needle-

understandably focused on the beautiful

covered forest paths, to the jangle of slot

waters of spectacular Lake Tahoe. Beaches

machines and the pumping bass of a casino

are packed with summer revelers, while the

dance club, Lake Tahoe South Shore (what

waters are ﬁlled with every type of ﬂoating

the marketers call Tahoe South) is a desti-

vessel imaginable—from kayaks and stand-

nation hosting a unique mix of wilderness

up paddle boards to small sailboats, ﬁshing

and wild-ness, an indoor and outdoor play-

cruisers, water-ski boats, luxury cruising

ground with equal measures of altitude and

vessels and even the 500-passenger paddle-

attitude. Visitors can follow their desires to

wheel ship M.S. Dixie II that runs daily

ﬁnd peace and solitude on back country

Emerald Bay sightseeing trips and sunset

hikes or ski runs, or dive into a swirling

dinner cruises. For the adventurous, Tahoe’s

social scene at a packed summer beach,

new Emerald Bay Maritime Heritage Trail is

holler at a crowded craps table or slurp

an underwater route for divers and

microbrews at an après ski bar complete

snorkelers to swim around old shipwrecks.

with go-go dancers. It’s dealer’s choice on

For fun out of the water, the South Shore

the South Shore. And South Lake is contin-

is a hiker’s paradise with journeys ranging

uing

ongoing

from multi-day treks into the Desolation

openings and renovations of hotels, restau-

its

renaissance

with

Wilderness and a steep day’s climb up to

rants and retail spaces across the area.

the awe-inspiring views from Mount Tallac,

RACHID DAHNOUN/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY

BY BILL FINK

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:18 AM Page 141

to relaxed family strolls in ﬂat meadows at

Tahoe waters and the high-prairie Nevada

gambling, dining and entertainment.

Camp Richardson and around the Tallac

countryside. The Heavenly Gondola con-

Gamers get recharged in an array of restau-

Historic Site or along the lakeshore. Cyclists

nects visitors right into the action in the

rants and buﬀets, as well as at comedy

can take advantage of a network of road

center of the city. Heavenly’s Tamarack

shows and live music events at Harveys

rides and mountain paths with everything

Lodge features a lively après ski scene, as

Summer Concert Series and at the Hard

from a scenic roll in the woods to treach-

does their LAT 38 rooftop bar at the Cali-

Rock Hotel. Packed bars and clubs give

erous, teeth-rattling mountain descents.

fornia Lodge. Kirkwood, about a 45-minute

South Tahoe’s indoor playground a Vegas

The ambitious can even bike the entire 72-

drive from town, is known for its advanced

feel, albeit at 6200 feet above sea level (don’t

mile circumference of Lake Tahoe, while

chutes, the “Expedition Kirkwood” adven-

forget to rehydrate in the high and dry air!).

the cautious can pedal bike paths close to

ture ski program, deep snow and relaxed

Outside the casinos, the main strip of

town and teens can stunt-ride at the Bijou

vibe. Sierra-at-Tahoe is a medium-sized

town boasts shopping opportunities in the

Bike Park. Golfers can check out several

family-oriented ski resort (located on

Chateau at the Village, with name-brand

area courses, including the lakeside Edge-

Highway 50 between South Lake Tahoe and

boutiques as well as quirky local ski shops

wood Tahoe Golf Course (home of the

Sacramento) with specially designed

and crafts stores along the shores. Dining

popular American Century celebrity golf

learning terrain, and new food and bev-

can be anything from sushi to pizza and

tournament in July) and stay in picturesque

erage

with

gourmet cuisine at the Lake House Restau-

Lodge at Edgewood.

Reno/Tahoe

options

for

2019.

International

And

Airport’s

rant, and tasty morning treats for skiers and

Heavenly Mountain Resort’s on-moun-

expanded ﬂight options and added ground

hikers at the new Crazy Good Bakery Café

tain Epic Discovery adventure center

transport services with the South Tahoe

and Dragonﬂy Bagel Co. To quench your

features a gravity-powered Mountain

Airporter and UberSKI, getting here and

thirst, try the locally-focused South Lake

Coaster, long zip lines, an educational forest

getting around in winter is easier than ever.

Brewing Company and the 25 beers on tap at

canopy tour and a kids ropes course, as well

And to extend the winter season in 2019,

Lake Tahoe AleWorX or the new Tahoe Social

as a network of hiking trails leading from

South Tahoe will be running its second

House for evening cocktails. When you

their gondola (which is worth a sightseeing

annual “Spring Loaded” series of events,

ﬁnally decide to take a rest, South Lake

ride even if you never step oﬀ it) and guided

food and lodging specials and ski parties

Tahoe oﬀers a vast array of lodging options

4x4 tours to further explore the mountain.

from March 14 to April 7.

from high-rise casino hotels to boutique

Winter

24/7/365

the Basecamp Hotel and the Coachman

Lake Tahoe South Shore boasts three world-

When the day of outdoor activity is done,

Hotel refurbished with an upscale retro vibe.

class ski resorts: Heavenly, Kirkwood and

the second shift of fun is just beginning

Regardless of your choice of food,

Sierra-at-Tahoe. Heavenly is an expansive

around South Lake Tahoe. On the Nevada

activity or season, Lake Tahoe South Shore

and popular mountain spanning two

side of the border, high-rise casinos rock

is a spot to satisfy any sort of appetite—

states, with contrasting views of the blue

with the sounds and energy of non-stop

you’ll only be hungry for another trip.

resorts and old-school motels—some like

PADDLE BOARDING on Lake Tahoe, opposite; family skiing and snowboarding at Heavenly above Lake Tahoe, left; it’s cocktail time at Lodge at Edgewood, above.

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GOLD COUNTRY You can still strike it rich here with adventure, history and fine wine

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES Sacramento, Sonora, Placerville, Auburn, Downieville, Sutter Creek, Nevada City, Jackson, Columbia, Murphys, Jamestown, Angels Camp INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 13 miles (21 km) from the city center

t was a ﬂash in the pan that changed the world. The sparkling nugget that caught the eye of James W. Marshall as he tended a sawmill in the Sierra Nevada

foothills in January 1848 set oﬀ a gold rush that drew more than 300,000 would-be prospectors the following year from

TOURISM WEBSITES discovergold.org visit-eldorado.com visitsacramento.com

the eastern U.S., South America, Europe, even China. They were known as the 49ers. Overnight, the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco from a sleepy port to a rollicking city and persuaded Congress to

POPULATION 650,000

put California—wrested from Mexico by war just two years earlier—on the fast track to statehood. Most of the gold was found in a 300-mile belt that extended through the Sierra foothills, from Downieville in the north to Coarsegold in the south. Miners called it the “Mother Lode.” In a state working tirelessly to invent the future, the Gold Country remains the most visible manifestation of its notso-distant past, with towns sporting wood-plank sidewalks, swinging saloon doors, hitching posts and red-brick buildGOLD COUNTRY

ings. (You’ll quickly discover that the best preserved of these belonged to Wells Fargo and, oddly, the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.)

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SPECIAL

MENKA BELGAL/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION; ERIK BERGEN/PLACER COUNTY; MYLES MCGUINNESS/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION. OPPOSITE: MYLES MCGUINNESS/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION

» EVENTS 2019

MUST

Nearly three dozen El Dorado County wineries participate in TALES FROM THE CELLAR, a blend of wine tasting, live music, food and literary-themed events. April 6-7 and 13-14 passporteldorado.com Wager on a jumping frog as Mark Twain’s most beloved story is commemorated each year at the CALAVERAS COUNTY FAIR & JUMPING FROG JUBILEE in Angels Camp. May 16-19 frogtown.org Sutter Creek celebrates the grape harvest with the AMADOR VINTNERS HARVEST WINE FESTIVAL, a.k.a. The Big Crush. See the harvest in action and enjoy wine samples and food pairings at many of the 40+ Amador Vintners’ wineries. Oct. 5-6 suttercreek.org Angels Camp returns to the days of Samuel Clemons for the MARK TWAIN WILD WEST FEST, with period costumes, blacksmithing and saloon dancing girls. Oct. 19 marktwainwildwestfest.com

SEE, DO

Covered Bridge The longest covered bridge west of the Mississippi stands at Knight’s Ferry, an old-time Mother Lode town so picturesque that scenes for Bonanza and Little House on the Prairie were ﬁlmed there. › knightsferry.com

Have a Sarsaparilla Step back to the 1800s at Columbia State Historic Park, with its woodplanked sidewalks, historically costumed shopkeepers and strict “horse-drawn vehicles only” policy. › visitcolumbiacalifornia.com

Appellation Trail Leave the tippling crowds behind as you taste rich, jammy Zinfandels and other wines at dozens of wineries in California’s up-and-coming wine region—Amador, El Dorado and Calaveras counties. › discovercaliforniawines.com › discover-california/sierra-foothills

» FLY-CASTING FOR TROUT, opposite; zip line fun, left; panning for gold, below; historic downtown Placerville, bottom right.

Apple Watch Allow the aroma of freshly baked apple pies, fritters, turnovers and strudel to lure you oﬀ Highway 50 east of Placerville to a place called Apple Hill. More than 50 growers participate in a celebration of the apple harvest— and of autumn itself—with cider, hayrides, pumpkin patches, hay mazes and other family fun. It runs from Labor Day to Christmas. › applehill.com

California Underground Rappel into the darkness and explore a chamber large enough to hold the Statue of Liberty in Moaning Cavern near the town of Vallecito. › caverntours.com

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Today you can still pan for gold—it’s often said there’s more left in the ground than the original 49ers ever took out—but you can also raft some of California’s frothiest rivers, explore caverns and sample Chardonnay and Syrah in uncrowded, upand-coming wineries.

City & Town Sacramento was the terminus of the Transcontinental Railroad—from there, passengers completed their journey to San

DRIVE

» TOUR NAVIGATING A TOUR through the Gold Country couldn’t be easier: HIGHWAY

49—named for the original 49ers—traverses the entire region. It stretches nearly 300 miles through the Sierra foothills, from

DOWNIEVILLE in the north to OAKHURST in the south, linking all the Gold Country’s major towns and sights. Allow at least two days for the journey. Start with a mountain-biking excursion in DOWNIEVILLE, poke around the galleries and antique shops of NEVADA CITY and drop by the site where Marshall and Sutter found those first sparkling nuggets in COLOMA.

SUTTER CREEK, with a bounty of inviting B&Bs and restaurants serving the local wine, is a good place to spend the night. On your second day, explore ANGELS CAMP—perhaps pausing to wager on a frog if it’s jumping season (the third week in May)—try your hand at panning for gold at COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK and take a ride on the historic steam train in JAMESTOWN’S RAILTOWN 1897 STATE HISTORIC PARK.

146 2 0 1 9 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

MYLES MCGUINNESS/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION; MENKA BELGAL/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION; MYLES MCGUINNESS/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION

Francisco by ferry and barge—and the city still plays a vital role as the jumping-oﬀ point for exploring the Gold Country. Since the arrival of the 49ers, the small towns of the Gold Country proper have morphed through several distinct stages, from

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:18 AM Page 147

rough-and-tumble boomtowns, to somnolent hamlets, to destinations for biker rallies, to, ﬁnally, genteel venues for weekend getaways sporting comfortable B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants, antique stores and nearby wineries. Among the most popular are Sutter Creek, Nevada City and Murphys. The two largest towns of the Sierra foothills—Sonora and Placerville— oﬀer all this, plus a large selection of motels, restaurants and shops in all price categories.

The Great Outdoors From May to mid October, the American River is California’s top venue for white-

rafters are assured of good conditions. Out-

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park

water rafting. The river ﬂow is controlled

ﬁtters oﬀer both half-day and full-day trips

or Folsom Lake. In the northern Sierra, the

by releases from upstream reservoirs, so

through Class III whitewater, ending up at

town of Downieville has become a center for mountain biking. Local bike shops oﬀer rentals and shuttles on old mining roads and single tracks from the casual to the technical, including a 15-mile ride with a 4,000-foot descent. Houseboaters ﬂock to vast, sprawling Gold Country reservoirs such as New Melones Lake, Don Pedro Lake and Lake McClure.

SMITHING at Columbia State Historic Park, opposite top; Folsom Hotel, above; city of Sonora, left.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The signatures of everyone from Mark Twain to Ulysses S. Grant to Charles Bolles (better known as Black Bart) are on display in the register of the historic MURPHYS

HOTEL, one of the oldest continually operating hotels in California. murphyshotel.com

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CENTRAL VALLEY California’s agricultural heartland

BY JILL K. ROBINSON TOP CITIES Modesto, Fresno, Bakersfield, Davis, Stockton, Fairfield, Merced, Visalia, Madera, Vacaville, Manteca, Lodi

he rich green strip wedged between the Sierra Nevada Range and the coastal mountains in the center of California is considered by

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 80 miles (129 km) from Modesto, 172 miles (277 km) from Fresno

many to be the greatest garden in the world. The Central Valley,

which runs 400 miles north to south, is ﬁlled with farms, orchards and vineyards growing everything from almonds to cherries to peaches to

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 118 miles (190 km) from Bakersfield

grapes, and supplies as much as 45 percent of the food eaten in the United States. See and taste the state’s bounty when you travel here to discover the soul of these vibrant communities. California’s Central Valley contains thousands of acres of land under cultivation and small farming communities that seem to have been frozen in

TOURISM WEBSITE visitcentralvalley.com

time. The larger cities here (Modesto, Fresno and Bakersﬁeld) still have a

POPULATION 4,858,000

that there’s more going on beyond the farmland. From the quiet, northern-

small-town friendliness that encourages visitors to slow down and ﬁnd out most towns of Orland, Yuba City and Davis to Visalia, Tulare and Maricopa at the southern end, it’s easy to feel at home and see what some call “the Other California.” Travelers using Interstate 5 to get through the Central Valley may believe the agricultural region is nothing more than a sleepy little farming area, but don’t speed by and discount the wealth of spectacular scenery, opportunities for outdoor recreation, highlights of California history and funky roadside

CENTRAL VALLEY

diners. The best way to discover the area on a leisurely itinerary is by taking Highway 99, which feels more like a back road. Cities and towns are clustered along the route, giving you a chance to pull oﬀ and explore any time you want.

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VISIT STOCKTON. OPPOSITE:JEFFREY B. BANKE/SHUTTERSTOCK; FRESNO/CLOVIS CVB

San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 94 miles (151 km) from Modesto, 186 miles (299 km) from Fresno

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:18 AM Page 149

DRIVE

» TOUR

MUST

» It may be tempting to cover

SEE, DO

the Central Valley by zooming along on Interstate 5, but instead, take the slower

HIGHWAY 99—often referred to as “California’s Main Street,” and the very same road the fictional Joad family traveled

Expansive Wetlands Explore Grizzly Island

in the Suisun Marsh, which makes up more than 10 percent of California’s remaining natural

in The Grapes of Wrath. Start

wetlands.

in oil-town BAKERSFIELD and

›

head north toward FRESNO,

MERCED and MODESTO. As you pass from the San Joaquin Valley into the Sacramento River Delta, take

suisunwildlife.org/grizzly.html

Basque in the Desert Get to know Basque

culture in Bakersﬁeld, where there’s a rich history of transplanted sheepherders.

›

noriegahotel.com

a jog over to Interstate 5 to pass to the west of Sacramento and into

Yolo, Colusa and Glenn counties at the north end of the great

produce more than 40 percent of the state’s

Central Valley.

premium Zinfandel.

›

Wine Tasting Visit wineries in Lodi, which

lodiwine.com

Fresh oﬀ the Farm Reap the beneﬁts of

Fresno farms’ bounty at the Vineyard Farmer’s Market, held every Wednesday and Saturday, year-round.

›

vineyardfarmersmarket.com

Old Town Wander through the delta town of

Locke, the only U.S. town built exclusively by the Chinese for the Chinese.

›

locketown.com

LONE BULL TULE ELK at Grizzly Island Wildlife Area, left; canoe tour with the San Joaquin River Parkway and Conservation Trust, above; Stockton Sailing Club and Brookside, opposite.

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FORESTIERE UNDERGOUND GARDENS, Fresno, right; sunset paddle boarding at Lodi Lake, below.

Two river valleys—the Sacramento and San Joaquin—dominate much of the region, and the waterways provide opportunities

for

sport

(ﬁshing,

rafting,

waterskiing) and bird migration rest stops, as well as an essential element of farming. In the hot summer months, the area’s rivers and lakes help residents and tourists alike cool oﬀ, and a shady swimming hole is an ideal spot to spend a weekend. Swing by one of the roadside produce stands for the best souvenirs in the Central Valley. Be sure to enjoy your prizes before you return home, because the edible treasure of the region is best sampled fresh.

City & Town College-town Davis has more bikes per capita than any U.S. city. Modesto and its

» TIP

Catch a baseball game at Banner Island, home of the STOCKTON PORTS.

hot rods were the stars of American Grafﬁti—and auto fans still ﬂock to the valley city. Fresno’s architectural history includes brick warehouses along the Santa Fe railroad tracks and the 1928 Pantages Theatre.

An offshoot of the team credited with inspiring Ernest Lawrence Thayer’s famous “Casey at the Bat” poem, the Ports got their name because

The Great Outdoors

Stockton was California’s only inland port.

A sprawling web of rivers twists through the Central Valley—from the Sacramento to

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LODI CVB; FRESNO/CLOVIS CVB

INSIDER’S

2019 Guide to California-v2.qxp_Layout 1 2019-02-01 9:18 AM Page 151

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 ROGUE PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL March 1-10, Fresno roguefestival.com MARCH MEET March 7-10, Fresno fresnoroguefestival.com PICNIC DAY April 13, Davis picnicday.ucdavis.edu ZINFEST WINE FESTIVAL May 17-19, Lodi zinfest.com AMERICAN GRAFFITI CAR SHOW & FESTIVAL June 7-9, Modesto americangraffitifestival.com VILLAGE FEST Sept. 7, Bakersfield bakersfieldvillagefest.com BRUBECK FESTIVAL October, see website for specific dates, Stockton pacific.edu/Brubeck-Institute.html BIG FRESNO FAIR Oct. 2-13, Fresno fresnofair.com

the San Joaquin to the Feather. The best place to enjoy river life is in the Sacra-

FESTIVAL OF ROSES Oct. 12, Wasco ci.wasco.ca.us SANDHILL CRANE FESTIVAL Nov. 1-3, Lodi cranefestival.com

mento Delta, with lush wetlands among vast orchards. The Sutter Buttes—considered the world’s smallest mountain range—rise above the ﬂat valley at its northernmost point.

Heritage & Culture Agriculture has drawn a diverse group of people here over the years, including migrant workers from Latin America, Dust Bowl-era farmers and entertaining country music masters. Visitors are always welcome to join regional celebrations, from harvest days to Basque festivals to Portuguese festas—complete with bloodless bullﬁghts.

Family Fun Families who love the outdoors and wideopen spaces will ﬁnd plenty to do in the Central Valley. Escape the summer heat by tubing down the Sacramento River, discover the amazing Forestiere Underground Gardens in Fresno, wander through the historic delta town of Locke, or gawk at restored military aircraft at the Castle Air Museum.

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SHASTA CASCADE A mystical mountain watches over an outdoor adventure paradise

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weaverville, Weed, Chico, Oroville GATEWAY Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) from the Redding city center TOURISM WEBSITES visitsiskiyou.org shastacascade.com visitredding.com

oets, artists, adventurers and New Age mystics are drawn inexorably to snow-capped Mount Shasta, which juts 14,179 feet into the Northern California sky. It is such an imposing

presence that it creates its own weather—most notably the strangelooking lenticular clouds that form on its summit. Some people see in them a jaunty beret, others a UFO mother ship. Some believe the mountain to be a vortex for spiritual activity, and at least two religions have been founded on its ﬂanks. Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of California’s least-populated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweeds, majestic rivers and

POPULATION 274,000

craggy volcanoes. This is where the West Coast’s two major mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades—run headlong into each other. Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmost of the Cascade peaks, erupted less than a century ago, spewing ash as far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far from dormant. To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively unvisited gems that are popular venues for ﬂy ﬁshing and horseback SHASTA CASCADE

trips. To the north, the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge, which extends into southern Oregon, is part of the Paciﬁc Flyway: In the fall its skies are darkened by more than a million migratory birds.

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SHASTA CASCity & Town CADE

For travelers, Redding was nothing more

MUST

than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until the

opening of the instantly iconic Sundial

A mystical mountain towers Bridge across the Sacramento River in

SEE, DO

2004. On the lower ﬂanks of its namesake peak, Mount Shasta City sports a

authority than James Hilton, author of

Sundial Bridge Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s now-iconic cantilever pedestrian span across the Sacramento River is the centerpiece of the worthwhile Turtle Bay Exploration Park in Redding. › turtlebay.org/sundialbridge

Lost Horizon, once claimed that the pretty

main street lined with New Age bookstores and shops selling crystals said to have mystical powers. No less an

alpine hamlet of Weaverville, gateway to the Trinity Alps, was the closest he’s ever KAYAKING ON LAKE ALMANOR, above; Lava Beds National Monument, Valentine Cave entrance, bottom; Mount Shasta, opposite.

come to a real-life Shangri-La.

The Great Outdoors Mount Shasta is irresistible to climbers; in the spring, summit-seekers are strung out along its most popular routes like ants on an anthill. To get to the top you need an ice axe, crampons and the skill

SHANNON MORROW/VLSB PHOTOS; KENNETH INGHAM/VLSB PHOTOS. OPPOSITE: LARRY HABEGGER

to use them safely. But on Mount Lassen,

INSIDER’S

» TIP

While hiking on MOUNT SHASTA, keep an eye out for the

its neighbor to the south, a well-graded

LEMURIANS, a race of psychically

trail runs all the way to the 10,457-foot-

advanced beings believed by

high summit. World-class ﬂy ﬁshing

some to live in an enormous cave

abounds in the Trinity Alps, and those

inside the mountain. They are

willing to walk a short distance with their

said to speak excellent English,

rods are almost guaranteed a spot to

with a “slight British accent.”

themselves. On the Salmon River,

lemurianconnection.com

between the Trinity Alps and Marble

Summit Fever With the help of a local guide, ﬁt beginners can reach the 14,179-foot-high summit of Mount Shasta via its classic Avalanche Gulch route. › shastaguides.com › swsmtns.com

Crystal Persuasion Feel the metaphysical vibes of Mount Shasta City by shopping for a Lemurian Seed Crystal at The Crystal Room. But be warned that they won’t let it go home with you unless it’s a “good energy match.” › crystalsmtshasta.com

Men in Tights Stretching 11 miles from the southern Cascades to the Central Valley, Chico’s sylvan Bidwell Park stood in for Sherwood Forest in 1938’s “The Adventures of Robin Hood” staring Errol Flynn. › visitcalifornia.com/attraction/bidwell-park

Romance of the Rails In Dunsmuir, a classic old railroad town, rail buﬀs can inspect a 1927 Willamette steam locomotive, dine in a vintage Pullman Club Car and bed down for the night in a genuine caboose at the Railroad Park Resort. › rrpark.com

Mountains, Otter Bar Lodge (otterbar.com) is one of the West’s premier whitewater kayaking schools.

Heritage & Culture The Shasta Tribe of Native Americans, a band of hunters and ﬁshermen who lived in cedar-plank houses with basements, once occupied much of what is now farnorthern

California

and

southern

Oregon. Their population dropped rapidly as settlers seized land following the discovery of gold in Yreka and Upper Soda Springs in 1850. To the east, at what is now Lava Beds National Monument, the Modoc tribe and the U.S. Army fought the

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DRIVE

last of the Indian wars in California in 187273. In the late 1880s, the Central Paciﬁc

» TOUR

Railroad spurred development of the timber and tourism industries, and in the 1970s,

The VOLCANIC LEGACY

New Age seekers began ﬁltering into the

SCENIC BYWAY is a

area, culminating in 1987’s “Harmonic Con-

500-mile-long route that

vergence,” which identiﬁed Shasta as one of

winds from LAKE

the world’s “power centers.”

ALMANOR, south of Mount Lassen, to CRATER

Family Fun

LAKE in southern Oregon,

The Sundial Bridge is the big draw, but for fam-

with access to most of the

ilies, the surrounding Turtle Bay Exploration

region’s major attractions.

Center in Redding oﬀers a full day’s worth of

volcaniclegacybyway.org

activities emphasizing the Sacramento River watershed, including an aquarium, museum, zoo, botanical garden and a recreated logging camp. turtlebay.org

PADDLE BOARDING on the Sacramento River by the Sundial Bridge, Redding, right; winter fun at Chester Lake, below.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2019 Miles of classic cars, an oﬃcially designated cruising route and ‘50s-style sock hops are the big attractions of Redding’s KOOL APRIL NITES. April 20-28 koolaprilnites.com

May is rodeo month in Redding, kicking oﬀ with a barbecue and dance May 12 and then four days of classic riding and roping events, plus “mutton bustin’” for the kids, at the REDDING RODEO. May 16-18. reddingrodeo.com

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VLSB PHOTOS

Eighty wild horses run free on the 5,000-acre WILD HORSE SANCTUARY near Mount Lassen. Guided, two- and three-day rides are oﬀered every weekend from April 27-28 to June 1-2. wildhorsesanctuary.org

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2019 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA RESOURCES »

GENERAL INFORMATION

POPULATION: 39,536,653

CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS

THERE ARE SIXTEEN OFFICIAL state Welcome Centers in 10 of the state’s tourism regions. Each center is listed by the region in which it is located. For more information, go to VisitCWC.com.

AREA: 158,693 square miles. It is approximately 770 miles long from the Mexican border to the Oregon border, and 250 miles wide from the Pacific Ocean to the Nevada and Arizona borders.

San Diego County 928 North Coast Highway Oceanside 760-721-1101

Central Valley 710 W. 16th Street, Suite A Merced 209-724-8104

TIME: California is in the Pacific Time Zone (GMT minus 8 hours). The state observes daylight saving time.

Inland Empire One Mills Circle, Suite 1054 Ontario 909-980-2019

San Francisco Bay Area Pier 39, Building B, Second Level, Unit B12 San Francisco 415-981-1280

Desert Region 2796 Tanger Way, Suite 100 Barstow 760-253-4782

9 Fourth Street Santa Rosa 800-404-7673

TAXES: The state sales tax is 7.25%. Local taxes may be as much as an additional 3%. DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE: For local numbers, dial 411; long-distance, 1 plus area code plus 555-1212; toll-free, 800-555-1212. EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE: Call 911 toll free from any public telephone to obtain police, fire or medical assistance. LIQUOR LAWS: Alcohol is sold throughout California. Legal drinking age is 21. SMOKING LAWS: You must be 18 to purchase tobacco products. Smoking is prohibited in all public buildings and enclosed spaces throughout California. Many cities in California have passed ordinances prohibiting smoking in all public places. It is even illegal to smoke on certain beaches in Southern California—watch for signs.

56711 Twenty-Nine Palms Highway Yucca Valley 760-365-5464 Orange County 6601 Beach Blvd. Buena Park 800-541-3953 Central Coast 8155-6 Arroyo Circle Gilroy 408-842-6436 333 Five Cities Drive, Suite 100 Pismo Beach 805-773-7924 1213 North Davis Road Salinas 831-757-8687

Gold Country 1103 High Street, Suite 150 Auburn 530-887-2111 2085 Vine Street, Suite 105 El Dorado Hills 916-358-3700 High Sierra 10065 Donner Pass Road Truckee 530-587-8808 2510 Highway 203 Mammoth Lakes 760-924-5500 Shasta Cascade 1699 Highway 273 Anderson 530-365-1180

QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL GENERAL TRAVEL visitcalifornia.com BEACHES beachcalifornia.com BORDER SERVICES cbp.gov BUS TRAVEL greyhound.com CALIFORNIA STATE GOVERNMENT ca.gov CALIFORNIA NATIONAL PARKS, NATIONAL FORESTS & PUBLIC LANDS nps.gov/state/ca CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS www.parks.ca.gov COOKING SCHOOLS epitourean.com/Destination/8/California.aspx ECO, ADVENTURE, OUTDOOR adventureout.com infohub.com

FESTIVALS seecalifornia.com/festivals festivals.com FISHING wildlife.ca.gov fishingnetwork.net FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMS flyertalk.com webflyer.com GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL gaytravel.com gogaycalifornia.com GOLF golfcalifornia.com golflink.com HUNTING wildlife.ca.gov RAIL TRAVEL amtrak.com ROAD CONDITIONS dot.ca.gov/cgi-bin/roads.cgi

SENIOR TRAVEL roadscholar.org aarp.org SKI CONDITIONS onthesnow.com STUDENT TRAVEL statravel.com SPORTS TRAVEL primesport.com TRANSPORTATION REGULATIONS dmv.ca.gov TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN travelforkids.com/Funtodo/California/california.htm familyvacationcritic.com TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES accessnca.org/resources WEATHER CONDITIONS wunderground.com WOMEN TRAVELERS adventurewomen.com journeywoman.com

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RESOURCES Âť

CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS

Amador County Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau 209-223-0350 amadorcountychamber.com Anaheim/Orange County Visitor and Convention Bureau 714-765-2800 visitanaheim.org Bakersfield Convention & Visitors Bureau 866-425-7353 visitbakersfield.com Berkeley Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-847-4823 visitberkeley.com Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau 800-345-2210 lovebeverlyhills.com Big Bear Lake Resort Association 800-424-4232 bigbear.com Buellton Visitors Bureau & Chamber of Commerce 805-688-7829 visitbuellton.com Calaveras Visitors Bureau 800-225-3764 gocalaveras.com Central Valley Tourism Association visitcentralvalley.com Costa Mesa Conference & Visitor Bureau 888-588-9417 travelcostamesa.com Crescent City/Del Norte County Chamber of Commerce 800-343-8300 exploredelnorte.com Destination Lancaster 661-948-4518 www.destinationlancasterca.org Eureka/Humboldt County Convention and Visitors Bureau 800-346-3482 visitredwoods.com

Long Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-452-7829 visitlongbeach.com

San Luis Obispo County Tourism Information 805-541-8000 slocal.com

Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-228-2452 discoverlosangeles.com

San Mateo County Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-288-4748 smccvb.com

Mammoth Lakes Tourism 888-GO-MAMMOTH visitmammoth.com Marin County Convention & Visitors Bureau 866-925-2060 visitmarin.org Marina del Rey Convention & Visitors Bureau 424-526-7900 visitmarinadelrey.com Mendocino County 866-466-3636 visitmendocino.com Modesto Convention & Visitors Bureau 888-640-8467 visitmodesto.com Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau 888-221-1010 seemonterey.com Morro Bay Tourism 805-225-7411 morrobay.org Napa Valley Destination Council 707-251-5895 legendarynapavalley.com Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau 888-5-NEWPORT visitnewportbeach.com North Lake Tahoe Visitors & Convention Bureau 888-434-1262 gotahoenorth.com Oakland Convention & Visitors Bureau 510-839-9000 visitoakland.com Palm Desert Visitors Center 800-873-2428 palm-desert.org

Santa Barbara Conference & Visitors Bureau 805-966-9222 santabarbaraca.com Santa Clara Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-272-6822 santaclara.org Santa Cruz County Conference & Visitors Council 800-833-3494 santacruz.org Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce Visitor & Convention Bureau 805-925-2403 santamaria.com Santa Monica Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-544-5319 santamonica.com Solvang Conference & Visitors Bureau 805-688-6144 solvangusa.com Sonoma County Tourism Bureau 707-522-5800 sonomacounty.com Stockton Convention & Visitors Bureau 877-778-6258 visitstockton.org Temecula Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau 888-363-2852 visittemeculavalley.com Travel Paso Robles Alliance 888-988-7276 travelpaso.com Tri-Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau 925-846-8910 visittrivalley.com

Fairfield Tourism Association 877-793-7386 visitfairfieldca.com

Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism 800-347-7746 visitpalmsprings.com

Fresno City and County Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-788-0836 playfresno.org

Palm Springs Desert Resorts Convention & Visitors Authority 800-967-3767 visitgreaterpalmsprings.com

Gilroy Visitors Bureau 408-842-1625 visitgilroy.com

Pasadena Convention & Visitors Authority 800-307-7977 visitpasadena.com

Greater Ontario Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-455-5755 gocvb.org

Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau 805-773-4657 classiccalifornia.com

Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau 707-433-6935 healdsburg.com

Redding Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-874-7562 visitredding.com

Huntington Beach Visitors Bureau 800-729-6232 surfcityusa.com

Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau 310-376-6911 visitredondo.com

Kern County Tourism Bureau 661-868-5376 visitkern.com

Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-292-2334 visitsacramento.com

West Hollywood Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-368-6020 visitwesthollywood.com

Laguna Beach Visitors Bureau 800-877-1115 visitlagunabeach.com

San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau 619-232-3101 sandiego.org

Yolo County Visitors Bureau 530-297-1900 visityolo.com

Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority 775-588-4591 tahoesouth.com

San Francisco Travel Association 415-391-2000 sftravel.com

Yosemite Mariposa County Visitors Bureau 866-425-3366 yosemite.com

Lodi Conference & Visitors Bureau 800-798-1810 visitlodi.com

San Jose Convention & Visitors Bureau 800-726-5673 sanjose.org

Yosemite Madera Visitors Bureau 559-683-4636 yosemitethisyear.com

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Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau 800-446-1333 visituolumne.com Vacaville Conference & Visitors Bureau 707-450-0500 visitvacaville.com Vallejo Convention & Visitors Bureau 707-642-3653 visitvallejo.com Ventura County Coast 800-648-2124 venturacountycoast.com Ventura Visitors & Convention Bureau 800-333-2989 visitventuraca.com

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HOLIDAYS

January 1

New Year’s Day

July 4

Independence Day

January 21

Martin Luther King Jr.’s Birthday

September 2

Labor Day

February 18

Presidents’ Birthdays

November 11

Veterans Day

March 31

César Chávez Day

November 28

Thanksgiving Day

May 27

Memorial Day

December 25

Christmas Day

CLIMATE/TEMPERATURES

Average temperatures reﬂect those of a city centrally located in the region. Temperatures at the coast are often 5 or more degrees cooler than inland temperatures because of coastal breezes and fog, and farther inland, temperatures are often signiﬁcantly warmer than central locations at the same elevation. Cities for average temperatures: San Diego County: San Diego; Desert: Palm Springs; Orange County: Irvine; Inland Empire: San Bernardino; Los Angeles County: Los Angeles; Central Coast: San Luis Obispo; Central Valley: Merced; San Francisco Bay Area: San Francisco; Gold Country: Sacramento; High Sierra: Truckee; North Coast: Arcata; Shasta Cascade: Redding Source: Weatherbase.com

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

F° C°

49/65 9/18

51/65 10/18

53/66 12/19

56/68 13/20

59/69 15/20

62/71 17/22

65/75 19/24

67/76 19/25

65/76 18/24

61/73 16/23

54/69 12/21

48/65 9/18

DESERTS

F° C°

46/69 8/21

48/73 9/23

53/79 12/26

57/85 14/29

65/93 18/34

71/102 22/34

77/107 25/42

78/106 25/41

73/100 23/38

62/89 17/32

52/77 11/25

44/67 7/20

ORANGE COUNTY

F° C°

40/67 5/18

43/68 6/20

44/69 7/21

48/73 9/23

52/75 11/24

56/79 13/26

59/84 15/29

59/85 15/30

57/84 14/29

52/79 11/26

44/74 7/23

41/68 5/20

INLAND EMPIRE

F° C°

39/66 4/19

41/68 5/20

43/70 6/21

46/76 8/24

51/80 10/27

54/89 12/31

59/96 15/36

56/92 13/33

50/83 10/28

42/77 6/23

39/68 4/20

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

F° C°

48/66 9/19

50/67 10/20

51/69 11/20

53/71 12/22

57/73 14/23

60/77 15/25

63/82 17/28

64/83 18/28

63/82 17/28

59/78 15/25

53/73 12/22

49/67 10/20

CENTRAL COAST

F° C°

41/64 5/18

42/64 6/18

44/65 7/19

45/69 7/20

48/72 9/22

51/75 11/24

54/77 12/25

55/80 13/26

54/79 12/26

50/76 10/24

44/70 7/21

40/65 4/18

CENTRAL VALLEY

F° C°

37/53 3/12

39/60 4/16

42/65 5/19

45/73 7/23

51/82 11/28

58/90 14/32

61/95 16/35

60/93 15/34

56/88 13/31

49/78 9/26

41/64 5/18

36/53 2/12

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

F° C°

46/56 7/13

48/60 8/15

49/61 9/16

50/63 10/17

51/64 10/17

53/66 11/18

54/66 12/18

56/70 13/21

55/69 12/20

51/64 10/17

47/57 8/13

GOLD COUNTRY

F° C°

39/54 4/12

41/60 5/15

44/65 7/18

46/71 7/21

51/80 11/27

55/87 12/30

58/92 15/33

58/91 14/32

56/87 13/31

50/78 10/25

43/64 6/17

38/54 4/12

HIGH SIERRA

F° C°

15/39 -10/4

17/42 -9/6

21/47 -6/8

26/54 -3/12

32/63 0/17

37/73 3/23

42/83 5/28

40/81 5/27

36/74 2/24

29/63 -2/17

22/50 -5/10

16/41 -9/5

NORTH COAST

F° C°

40/55 4/12

40/55 4/13

40/55 5/13

41/56 5/13

45/59 7/15

48/61 9/16

50/62 10/17

50/63 10/17

47/63 9/17

44/62 7/17

42/57 5/14

39/54 4/12

SHASTA CASCADE

F° C°

37/55 3/13

40/60 4/15

43/65 6/18

46/71 8/21

54/81 12/27

62/90 16/32

66/98 19/37

63/97 17/36

58/90 14/32

49/78 10/25

41/63 5/17

36/55 2/13

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RESOURCES »

MEDICAL CARE & TRAVEL INSURANCE DRIVING REGULATIONS

Visitor Medical Insurance plans are designed to cover medical expenses resulting from a sudden illness or injury while visiting the USA or other countries. Typically, visitor insurance plans offer beneﬁts to cover inpatient hospital, outpatient doctor ojjﬁce visits, surgery and prescription drug expenses.

LICENSE/DOCUMENTATION: You must have a valid driver’s license from a U.S. state or foreign country. Minimum driving age is 16. For more information about California driver’s license regulations, call 800-777-0133. SEATBELT: By law, everyone in a vehicle must wear a seatbelt. Children under the age of eight (8) must be secured in a car seat or booster seat in the back seat. Infants should stay in rearfacing seats until they weigh at least 20 pounds, can pull themselves up to stand, or reach one year of age.

Go One Global Corporation 800-257-7718 g1g.com Distributor of online travel and international medical insurance products and services.

HELMETS: Motorcycle helmets must be worn by all motorcycle riders, as well as their passengers. Bicycle riders under the age of 18 must wear helmets.

Insubuy 866-467-8289 insubuy.com Provides a variety of short-term medical insurance for foreigners visiting the USA.

SPEED LIMITS: These are posted in miles-per-hour (mph). Generally, the speed limit on multilane freeways is 65 mph. On two-lane highways it is usually 55 mph. The speed limit on city streets is usually 25-35 mph. In residential areas, near schools and in areas with heavy foot traffic, the speed limit is almost always 25 mph.

International Services, Inc. 877-593-5403 nriol.net Financial services company with focus on providing quality insurance for U.S. residents, travel insurance for tourists, and medical insurance for international students.

CARPOOL LANES: Major urban areas have carpool lanes (or “diamond lanes”) identified by small black-and-white signs and by diamonds painted on the roadway. To drive in a carpool lane, you must usually have two people (including the driver) in the car. Some carpool lanes in the San Francisco Bay Area require three people (including the driver). CELL PHONES: The Wireless Communications Device Law makes it an infraction to write, send or read text-based communication on an electronic wireless communications device, such as a cell phone, while driving a motor vehicle. Drivers must also use a hands-free device when speaking on a cell phone.

Multichoice Insurance Services 855-444-6247 insurancemultichoice.com Fast, simple, online (secured) and effective way to fulﬁll travel insurance needs.

ACCIDENTS: You must report accidents to the California Department of Motor Vehicles if injury or death occurs, or if damage exceeds $750.

Patriot America 877-778-4562 DRINKING AND DRIVING: It is illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol (blood alcohol concentration of .08% or higher).

patriotamericainsurance.net Worldwide travel medical insurance for non-U.S. citizens traveling outside of their citizenship country.

USA-Assist Worldwide Protect

ROAD CONDITIONS: The California Department of Transportation maintains a free 24-hour hotline for information at 800-427-7623. Throughout the state you can dial 511 on your phone to get up-to-the-minute transportation information.

877-539-8619 usa-assist.com Provides travel insurance, assistance and protection to all kinds of travelers, including groups and business travelers worldwide.

OTHER: Roundabouts are uncommon in California. Most intersections are either signed by traffic lights or by stop signs. Unless signed otherwise, it is legal to make a right turn on a red light after you come to a complete stop.

RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED

RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED ACCESS NORTHERN CALIFORNIA: A non-proﬁt organization dedicated to providing increased opportunities and improving access to travel and outdoor recreation for people with disabilities throughout Northern California. Website (accessnca.org) has a large resource section with lodging, parks, transportation, adaptive recreation and more. CAR RENTAL: Avis Rent a Car has an “Avis Access” program that oﬀers a dedicated 24-hour toll-free number (888-879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs and hand controls; and accessible bus service.

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HEARING IMPAIRED ASSISTANCE: Dial 711 for TDD-to-voice or voice-to-TDD relays. LOS ANGELES HANDICAPPED TOURIST ACCESSIBILITY GUIDE: Available online at latourist.com. Includes accessible tourist attractions, hiking trails, outdoor activities, transportation and more. NATIONAL PARKS: Free access to national parks is available to U.S. citizens and residents who have a permanent disability. The Golden Access Passport is available at any National Park Service Headquarters.

STATE PARKS: The California Department of Parks and Recreation oﬀers a Disabled Discount Pass which provides a 50 percent discount for use of all basic facilities (including day use parking, camping and boat/day use parking fees) at any unit of the California State Park System operated by the State Department of Parks and Recreation. Cost is $3.50 and is available online (www.parks.ca.gov) or by calling 800-777-0369. TRAIN TRAVEL: All rail services in California are wheelchair accessible. In addition, Amtrak oﬀers a 15% discount to travelers with disabilities (800-8727245 or amtrak.com).

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AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES SAN DIEGO (SAN)

PALM SPRINGS (PSP)

LOS ANGELES (LAX)

SAN JOSE (SJC)

SAN FRANCISCO (SFO)

SACRAMENTO (SMF)

SAN DIEGO

mile/km/h

—

85/137/<1

109/175/<1

417/671/1

437/703/1

480/772/1

LOS ANGELES

mile/km/h

109/175/<1

110/176/<1

—

308/495/1

327/527/1

373/600/1

SAN FRANCISCO

mile/km/h

437/703/1

410/660/1

327/527/1

20/32/<1

—

84/135/<1

NEW YORK

mile/km/h

2440/3928/5

2373/3819/5

2469/3974/5

2562/4124/5

2570/4136/5

2514/4046/5

MIAMI

mile/km/h

2267/3649/5

2232/3593/4

2432/3769/5

2559/4118/5

2574/4142/5

2552/4107/5

CHICAGO

mile/km/h

1723/2773/3

1652/2658/3

1744/2807/3

1829/2944/4

1837/2956/4

1781/2867/4

DENVER

mile/km/h

853/1373/2

776/1249/2

862/1387/2

948/1526/2

957/1541/2

910/1464/2

SEATTLE

mile/km/h

1050/1690/2

987/1589/2

954/1535/2

696/1121/2

682/1097/2

605/974/2

TORONTO

mile/km/h

2157/3472/5

2085/3355/5

2176/3501/5

2245/3612/5

2251/3622/5

2191/3526/4

VANCOUVER

mile/km/h

1177/1894/2

1114/1793/2

1080/1739/2

819/1318/2

804/1293/2

729/1173/2

h = ﬂight time rounded to nearest number of hours; <1 = less than 1 hour

DRIVING DISTANCES SAN DIEGO

PALM SPRINGS

LOS ANGELES

SANTA BARBARA

MONTEREY

SAN JOSE

SAN FRANCISCO SACRAMENTO

YOSEMITE

LAKE TAHOE

REDDING

SAN DIEGO

mile/km

—

126/203

127/204

218/351

450/724

468/753

514/827

509/819

482/776

604/972

664/1069

PALM SPRINGS

mile/km

126/203

—

114/183

204/328

453/729

447/719

487/784

490/789

468/753

591/951

651/1048

LOS ANGELES

mile/km

127/204

114/183

—

91/146

327/526

347/558

387/623

388/624

359/578

484/779

544/875

SANTA BARBARA

mile/km

218/351

204/328

91/146

—

242/389

286/460

327/526

379/610

398/641

500/805

535/861

MONTEREY

mile/km

450/724

453/729

327/526

242/389

—

69/111

114/183

188/303

203/327

284/457

316/509

SAN FRANCISCO

mile/km

514/827

487/784

387/623

327/526

114/183

44/71

—

90/145

182/293

185/298

217/349

YOSEMITE

mile/km

482/776

468/753

359/578

398/641

203/327

174/280

182/293

196/315

—

198/319

247/397

LAKE TAHOE

mile/km

604/972

591/951

484/779

500/805

284/457

214/344

185/298

102/164

198/319

—

256/412

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