Globerovers Magazine, July 2013

Globerovers

Feature Article

6 Iran · Persian Colours

Iran is a land of contrast with a rich and ancient Persian and pre-Islamic history. Explore the vast deserts, ruins of lost cities, salt lakes, adobe mountain villages, bazaars, snow covered mountains, elaborate mosques, shrines and mausoleums. Get to know the friendly locals and experience their culture, cuisine, and extraordinary way of life. Buy a Persian carpet at the bazaar and fy to the moon!

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India-The Kerala Way

Kerala State in southwest India offers historical towns, rolling tea and cardamom plantations, houseboating on the ‘backwaters’ and tropical beaches with spicy food.

China · Yunnan’s Tibetan Region

Tibet and its people extend beyond the Chinese created borders into the Chinese province of Yunnan. Hike over the snowy mountains into Yubeng, a secluded Tibetan village.

Galapagos Islands of Ecuador

Remote islands where animals fear no humans. Take an eight day island cruise and explore remote islands with Galapagos tortoises, blue-footed boobies, sea lions, lava lizards, and sally lightfoot crabs.

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Tibet · Land of the Bhikkhu

Enter the sacred world of the Bhikkhu who live in ancient monasteries tucked away among the snow covered Tibetan mountains.

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166

172

Hiking

the Himalayas to Everest Base Camp

A 16-day hike in the Himalayas of Nepal passes spectacular mountain peaks and Sherpa villages to Mount Everest Base Camp (5,363 m).

Japan’s Winter Wonderland

Every winter northern Japan transforms into a winter wonderland complete with dancing white Tancho cranes and Whooper swans.

ADVENTURE REPORT Climbing Nicaragua’s Volcán Concepción

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COMING ISSUE: SPECIAL PREVIEW

Svalbard · Gateway to the North Pole

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PHOTO: Roof of Kyoto train station, Japan

ON THE COVER:

Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh, Esfahan, Iran

Globerovers Magazine

currently is a bi-annual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing, to the intrepid traveller, exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe.

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Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Consultant - Tsui Chi Ho

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Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

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Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973) was an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

Welcome to the inaugural issue of Globerovers Magazine. Due to the popularity of the website, www.globerovers.com, it made perfect sense to create a new magazine to o er the Globerovers experience in another media format.

Globerovers Magazine will be published bi-annually, in the months of July and in December. Should you enjoy it, and we have enough articles, the frequency of publication may be extended to quarterly or even to monthly. Printed copies can be ordered from Blurb.com (see order information on p.155). Unfortunately, ordering from USA-based Blurb is expensive so we are looking for a lower cost printer for future issues.

e focus of this magazine is the intrepid traveller who prefers to explore less visited and o the beaten track destinations. We hope to introduce many exciting destinations, including the odd touristy destination, as sometimes even the intrepid explorer needs a place with some luxuries.

As the Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of Globerovers Magazine, I am looking forward to sharing my experience and photographs from the 110+ countries I have explored. Feel free to contact me at editor@globerovers.com

In this rst issue: Iran, Iceland, Myanmar, India, China, Ecuador, Tibet, Nepal, Japan, and Nicaragua. Enjoy!

Please visit us at www.globerovers-magazine.com

Peter Steyn

Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

The Kaluts, southeastern Iran

IRAN Persian Colours

Photo: The Kaluts, Dasht-e Lut desert, Central Iran

Journey through this fascinating country with a civilization dating back thousands of years. Visit ancient lost cities, mosques, temples, shrines, caravanserais, fortresses, castles, bazaars as well as some of the greatest desert and mountain scenery in the world.

Milad Tower (Tehran Tower), Tehran

My rst visit to Iran was in March 2007 when I visited Tehran and then south to Esfahan, Shiraz and the desert around the town of Yazd. It was an unforgettable trip and I couldn’t wait to return.

In February 2013 I ew back to Tehran and then took Mahan Airlines southeast to the town of Kerman where my Iranian friends awaited on my arrival.

e rst few days were spent in and around Kerman followed by a train trip further southeast to the desert town of Bam. From Bam I went back to Kerman, into the desert, and then up to Kashan for a few days.

Back to Tehran where I boarded the overnight train to Tabriz in the far northwest, then along the Caspian Sea to the mountain village of Masuleh. Back in Tehran I stocked up on nuts, dates, gs, leather shoes and belts, and with a lovely Persian carpet I ew out.

Iran is generally safe and currently most

nationals except Americans are free to travel independently. Americans need to travel on an organized tour hosted by a government approved local travel agency.

Tehran

To get over your culture shock upon arrival in Iran, it makes sense to spend the rst few days in Tehran which is quite a developed city. Tehran, the capital of Iran as well as capital of the Tehran province, has a population of more than twelve million people which places it among one of the largest and most populated cities in western Asia.

It is quite a pleasant city and home to many historical monuments, traditional buildings, mosques, churches, synagogues and even some Zoroastrian re temples.

Contemporary Tehran is known for its more recent structures such as the Azadi (Freedom) Tower at the west entrance to Tehran, built in 1971 in commemoration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire.

Made of white marble stone from the Esfahan region, it is 50 m tall with an observation deck near the top. Finely constructed with eight thousand blocks of stone, this masterpiece currently appears a bit neglected.

Tehran also unveiled their contribution to high city towers when they completed the 435 m high Milad Tower in 2007. is concrete tower, which in 2013 ranked as the 6th tallest tower in the world, is also referred to as the Tehran Tower.

Tehran is further known for its air pollution, good shopping such as at the Tehran Grand Bazaar with corridors stretching over 10 km in length, and of course the so-called “den of spies” which is the vacant former embassy of the USA.

Among the notable tourist attractions in the city are the National Museum of Iran, the Carpet Museum, Glassware and Ceramics Museum, the Golestan Palace, Sa’dabad Palace Complex, Niavaran Palace Complex, and the fabulous Tehran National Jewels Museum.

Flying high over southern Iran

Located next to Laleh Park, the Carpet Museum of Iran (3,400 m²) was founded in 1976 and exhibits a large variety of di erent kinds of kilims and handmade rugs from all over Iran, in particular from Kashan, Kerman, Esfahan, Tabriz, Khorasan, and Kurdistan. Carpets date from the 18th century to the present time and one of the oldest and most precious carpets date from the Safavid dynasty who ruled Persia from 1501 to 1722.

e Glassware and Ceramic Museum of Iran is known for its building as well as for the valuable content. e building was constructed 90 years ago on the orders of Ahmad Qavam (Qavam-ol-Saltaneh) for his personal lodging (until 1953) but was then used for seven years as the embassy of Egypt. When relations with Egypt soured, the building was converted to a bank and later sold to Farah Pahlavi’s bureau in 1976 and turned into a museum which opened in 1980. e Glass and Ceramics Museum is administrated by the Iranian Cultural Heritage Organization and displays some of the most valuable glass and ceramics in the world.

e Golestan Palace is one of the oldest historical buildings in Tehran and is part of a group of buildings that once formed the arg (citadel) of the city. e arg was built during the reign of Tahmasp I (reigned 1524-1576) of the Safavid dynasty (1502–1736). e arg later became the site of the former royal Qajar complex (1794–1925). e Golestan Palace was then the o cial residence of the royal Qajar family which were of Turkic origin. e building we see today dates from 1865. A er the Qajar period it was used for formal royal receptions by the Pahlavi royals. Several coronations took place here including Reza Khan (reigned 1925-1941) as well as Mohammad Reza Pahlavi who was the last shah (king) of Iran and reigned from September 1941 until he was overthrown during the Iranian Revolution in February 1979. He died in exile in Egypt on 27 July 1980, aged 60, and his tomb is located in the Rifa’i Mosque in Cairo, Egypt. e Golestan Palace consists of 17 palaces, museums, and halls which were mostly built during the era of the Qajar kings.

Traveling around the city is fairly easy as there are many taxis and buses. Tehran’s underground train, the Metro, currently consists of four lines with an additional two under construction since 2007. It carries about two million passengers a day and is extremely crowded during rush hours when passengers push and shove to get into and out of the trains. Traditional Persian art is prominent in most stations.

Hungry? In addition to many contemporary restaurants, Tehran has several cozy traditional restaurants that serve authentic Iranian cuisine. Look out for the popular breads (nan-e barbari, lavash, sangak, and ta oon) and Persian kebab which is o en served with rice (chelo kabāb). Some yellow sa ron rice is always sprinkled on the white rice which is either Basmati rice (from India and Pakistan) or Persian rice from the northern

Flying high over the southern part of the Zagros mountain range which stretches up along the IranIraq border. This mountainous area is about 20 minutes of fying north of the island of Quesm on the fight path from Dubai (UAE) to Tehran which goes to the east of Shiraz and the west of Yazd.

Some of the incredibly beautiful and valuable items in the Glassware and Ceramic Museum of Iran.

regions of Iran. Try the tah-chin, a savory sa ron rice-cake with a lling such as marinated chicken llets.

Before leaving Iran, remember to stock up on carpets, nuts, dried fruits, and leather products. At Tehran’s Grand Bazaar you can buy di erent types of goods, including carpets, spices, copper, gold, and other precious metals. It is estimated that the total length of the many corridors is over 10 km long. While the current buildings were constructed during the 19th century, the bazaar dates back hundreds of years.

Esfahan

About 450 km south of Tehran by train is one of the greatest cities in the Middle East. Esfahan (or Isfahan), with a population of more than 3.5 million people, is probably the

Iran highlight of most local and international tourists.

e city is known for its good shopping (in particular copperware and Persian carpets at the Esfahan Bazaar at the northern section of the prominent Naqsh-e Jahan Square), the ancient bridges across the Zayande River, and the many mosques, palaces, caravanserais, old theological schools (madresse), churches and cathedrals, squares and streets, and other historical buildings. Out of town are many additional places of interest to explore.

is is a city where you can spend days on end and not truly experience it all. One of the greatest places to relax is at the Naqsh-e Jahan Square and along the bridges where locals will come up to you to enquire about your life. Don’t be surprised with their rst questions which almost always include: “Are you married?” and “What is your job?” Seems like these two questions are essential

for them to detect your social standing. Relax, they are only interested in your life.

e Khaju Bridge is arguably the nest bridge in Esfahan. It was built by the Persian Safavid dynasty king, Shāh ‘Abbās II, around 1650 on the foundations of an older bridge. It has 23 arches, has a total length of 105 m, and is 14 m wide. Another lovely bridge, the Chubi, was also built by king Shāh ‘Abbās II around 1655 to help irrigate the nearby palace gardens. It has 21 arches and has a total length of 150 m. e much older Si-o-Seh Pol Bridge was built by the Safavid dynasty king, Shāh ‘Abbās I, between 1599 and 1602. It has two rows of 33 arches, has a total length of 300 m, and is 14 m wide. e name Si-o-Seh Pol means “the bridge of 33 arches”.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque on the eastern side of Naqsh-e Jahan Square (known as Imam Square or Meidan Emam) was built between 1603 and 1618 during the reign of

Built in 1669 by Shah Sulaiman, the Hasht Behesht Palace (above) means the “Eight Paradises of Islam” is one of more than forty large mansions constructed in Esfahan during the Safavid era. The Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh (right) was built between 1704 and 1714.

The Imam Mosque in Esfahan was built between 1611 to 1629 on order of the frst Shah Abbas of Persia during the Safavid period. It is an excellent example of Islamic architecture and unquestionably one of the masterpieces of Persian architecture. Among the most stunning features are its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions. It is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Shāh ‘Abbās I. It is known for its beautiful interior wall and ceilings decorated with blue, yellow, turquoise and white tiles with intricate arabesque patterns. e inscriptions on the dome was written by Ali Reza Abbasi, a famous Iranian calligrapher. e nearby Imam Mosque was also built by Shāh ‘Abbās I between 1611 and 1629. It is known for its seven-colour mosaic tiles and complex calligraphic inscriptions. As one of the oldest mosques still standing in Iran today, the grand congregational Jāmeh Mosque went through several phases of construction and re-constructions starting around the year 770 until as recent as the end of the 20th century. e muqarnas (decorative corbels) added during the Safavid era are amongst the most beautiful in Islamic architecture.

Another beautiful building in Esfahan is the Safavid dynasty palace of Chehel Sotoon which was largely completed under Shāh ‘Abbās II. Construction started around 1598.

It has 20 slender wooden columns laid out in three rows of six with two additional ones on either side of the main entrance. Some of the remaining frescoes and paintings on ceramic inside the Chehel Sotoon Palace are depicting important scenes in Esfahan from the 16th and 17th centuries. Sadly many of the ceramic panels are in the possession of major museums in western countries.

Another beautiful residence in Esfahan, built in 1669 by Shah Sulaiman, is the Hasht Behesht Palace (‘Eight Paradises’ of Islam) which is one of more than forty large mansions constructed in Esfahan during the Safavid era. e “Hasht Behesht” architecture refers to the speci c oorplan common in Persian architecture whereby the plan is divided into an octagonal layout of rooms surrounding a large central room.

And yet another Esfahani residence, the grand palace of Ālī Qāpū was built by decree

of Shah Abbas I in the early seventeenth century and is located on the western side of the Naqsh-e Jahan Square opposite the Sheikh Lotfallah mosque. It is 48 m high and has seven oors which were constructed over a period of 70 years.

Time for shopping at the famous Esfahan Bazar. Don’t forget to stock up on some blueenamel mina-kari artwork at the Esfahan’s Bazar-e Honar (Gold and Silver Bazaar). Mina-kari is one of Esfahan’s most famous artworks which is enamel works of decorating metals with colourful baked paintings. “Mina” means a glasslike coloured coating which is baked on metals such as copper. While commonly used on plates, mina-kari is also applied to other dishes, vases, boxes and frames.

Hungry? In Esfahan try the huge meatballs as well as the Beryooni which is a dish made of baked mutton and lungs.

The Khaju Bridge at night with the lights refecting off the Zayandeh River.

Iran Traveller Tips

• Iran is generally a safe country to travel but you should be more careful along the border areas with Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan.

• Solo female travellers should have no problems, especially in the larger cities. Locals will be protective and may offer accommodation and home visits.

• Public transportation is good, yet sometimes quite basic, but fairly safe. Roads are generally in good condition. Where no public transportation, rent a car and driver.

Shiraz

To travel between Esfahan to Shiraz in the south (500 km) you need a car or bus as there is no train connection. Shiraz, with a population of over 1.5 million people, has been a regional trade centre for over a thousand years and is also one of the oldest cities in the history of Persia. Shiraz is celebrated for its now defunct Shirazi wine which was historically (since the 9th century) produced around the city of Shiraz in Persia. As the current government has formally banned all alcoholic beverages, grapes are still grown around the city of Shiraz but not, formally at least, fermented into wine.

Other than wine, Shiraz is also known as the city of rose gardens, nightingales and poets. Two of Iran’s greatest ancient national poets, Hafez and Saadi, lay buried here. e wellmaintained gardens at the mausoleum of Hafez have orange trees, paths, streams, and beautiful ower beds. Families come here to relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. A teahouse on the grounds provides refreshments in a traditional Iranian setting. Saadi Shirazi (Abū-Muhammad Muslih al-Dīn bin Abdallāh Shīrāzī, born in 1184 and died in 1283) was one of the major Persian poets of the medieval period and is known for the depth of his social and moral thoughts.

Beautiful Persian carpets (below) are made all over Iran, but particularly famous areas of production are Kashan, Kerman, Esfahan, Tabriz, Khorasan, and Kurdistan.

Blue Mina-kari artwork (below) at the Bazar-e Honar (Gold and Silver Bazaar). “Mina” is a glass-like coloured coating which is baked on metals such as copper.

Arg-e Karim Khani (fort Karim Khani) citadel in Shiraz (above and below). It was built in 1766-7 to serve as a safe home for Karim Khan Zand, the Kurdish hero, during the Zandieh dynasty that ruled southern and central Iran in the 18th century. As it resembles a medieval fortress, it was also used as a prison at which time all the valuable wall paintings were plastered over!

Shiraz is home to the mausoleum of Shah-e Cheragh (the shrine of the lord of the light, or “King of the Light”) which houses the tombs of the brothers Sayyed Ahmad and Muhammad, sons of Mūsá ibn Ja‘far al-Kādhim the seventh (of twelve) Emams. eir tombs became a pilgrimage shrine in the 14th century and is now the most venerated pilgrimage destination in Iran a er the shrines of Imam Reza in the northeastern town of Mashhad and Fatima in the town of Qom just south of Tehran.

Shiraz also has some of the most impressive mosques such as the Atigh Jame Mosque, Vakil Mosque, and the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque.

A famous landmark in Shiraz is Arg-e Karim Khani (fort Karim Khani), a citadel which is impressive during the day and night. Arg-e Karim Khani is located in the northeast of town. It was built in 1766-7 to serve as a safe home for Karim Khan Zand, the Kurdish hero, during the Zandieh dynasty that ruled southern and central Iran in the 18th century. As it resembles a medieval fortress, it was also used as a prison at which time all the valuable wall paintings were plastered over! It has four 12 m high walls connected by four 14 m round brick towers at a 90-degree angle. ese outer walls are 3 m thick at the base and 2.8 m at the top, which made it a super safe home for Karim!

Qavam House (also referred to as the Eram Palace or Narenjestan e-Ghavam) is a private palace built for the wealthy Qavam

family between 1879 and 1886. e garden is home to impressive cypress trees with some dating back 300 years ago.

Shiraz’s Qur’an Gate is located at the northeastern entrance of the city. e Gate was rst built in the rst century during the reign of Adud ad-Dawla, then partly destroyed and neglected, and then rebuilt in the 18th century during the Zandieh dynasty. Earthquakes severely damaged it during the Qajar dynasty (1785 to 1925).

The earliest reference to the city of Shiraz (then called “Tiraziš”) is on Elamite clay tablets found in 1970.

Local school kids enjoying the fowers in the gardens of the Mausoleum of Havez in Shiraz.

e Qashqai People of Fars

While in Shiraz, take a day-trip south towards the town of Firuzabad which is about 115 km south of Shiraz. With a population of about 62,000 people, Firuzabad is known for being surrounded by a mud wall and ditch. However, of more interest to some visitors is the amazing Qashqai nomadic people who live in the elds around town.

e Qashqai people (also spelled as Ghashghai and other variants) are a semi-nomadic Turkic people who generally speak the Persian language of Farsi as well as their own Qashqai (type of Turkic) language. ey are not a homogenous cultural group but rather consist of several tribes and sub-tribes including the Amalaeh, Darreh-Shuri, Kashkuli, Shesh, Baluki, Farsimadan, Qaracheh, Rahimi and the Sa -Khani people.

ey are mostly nomadic pastoralists although families are increasingly settling down in the towns and villages. e traditional nomadic Qashqai people live in tents made of goats’ hair and almost entirely live o their sheep and goats. ey frequently move their herds of sheep and goats to new pastures.

A Qashqai lady boiling goats milk.

Meeting the Qashqai People of Fars Province

The Qashqai people are increasingly giving up their nomadic lifestyle to settle in the towns and villages of southern Iran. A few things to consider if you plan to meet them:

• Ask taxi drivers in Shiraz until you fnd someone who speaks English and knows where to fnd the nomadic Qashqai people.

• Buy a few items of food as gifts from Shiraz before heading south. They will truly appreciate it.

• They are very friendly and welcoming, in particular if you bring along some much needed food.

• Ask before taking photos. Generally they are more than happy to be photographed.

• You likely will be offered homemade food such as bread, cheese and yoghurt. Accept with a smile and enjoy.

Qashqai nomadic pastoralist people who live in the felds outside Firuzabad.

Gate of Xerxes. Note the pair of Lamassus bulls (a protective deity) with the heads of bearded men, though they lost their heads long ago.

Lost City of Persepolis

About 70 km northeast of Shiraz lies the ancient tombs of Naqsh-e Rustam and the lost city of Persepolis.

e First Persian Empire, also known as the Achaemenid Empire, lasted from about 550 to 330 BC and was founded by Cyrus the Great (559–530 BC). e ancient capital city of Cyrus is called Pasargadae, located another 80 km northeast of Persepolis. e tomb of Cyrus can also be seen here in Pasargadae.

During the time of the Achaemenid Empire, the city of Persepolis was their “ceremonial capital”. Some of the earliest remains of the city dates back to 515 BC. Historians found that Cyrus is the guy who chose the site while it was really Darius the Great who should get

the credit for building most of the terraces and the great palaces of Persepolis. Whatever old Darius could not complete, his willing son, King Xerxes the Great, completed for his dad. Construction here continued until the downfall of the Achaemenid Empire.

en came Alexander III, also referred to as Alexander the Great. Alex was a king of Macedon, a state in northern ancient Greece, and he and his forces invaded Persia in the year 330 BC. ey captured the city before its treasury could be looted but then later allowed his men to ransack the precious city.

Much of Persepolis was then destroyed by a re that broke out in the Palace of Xerxes, and spread to the rest of the city. e forces of Alexander the Great is to blame though it is not exactly clear if the re was set intentionally or if it was by accident. Today we

don’t have much le to look at, but with some wild imagination, we can imagine the splendour of the city.

e impressive “Gate of All Nations” at Persepolis refers to subjects of the empire and consisted of a huge hall measured about 25 m in length, with four columns and its entrance (Gate of Xerxes) on the western wall. King Xerxes the Great (519–465 BC), the fourth King of Persia, ordered the construction and had his name written all over the entrances - hence the name “Gate of Xerxes”, as so thy King named it!

A pair of Lamassus bulls (a protective deity) with the heads of bearded men guard the gates, although long ago they sadly lost their heads to looters.

e rone Hall or the Imperial Army’s Hall

[Persepolis

(old-Persian: Pārśapura) was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (ca. 550–330 BC)]

Gate of Xerxes at Persepolis.

of Honour (also descriptively referred to as the “Hundred-Columns Palace”) measures 70 x 70 square metre making it the second largest building of the Terrace. Xerxes started the construction but his son, Artaxerxes I, completed it by the end of the h century BC.

e Tomb of Artaxerxes II who ruled from 404 BC until his death in 358 BC is also located at Persepolis. He apparently proudly killed his own brother ‘Cyrus the Younger’ and executed several other people whom he didn’t like. He is reported to have had a

number of wives and also married several of his own daughters.

Cuneiform inscriptions are clearly visible on window frames at the Palace of Darius I (also called “Tachara Palace” or “Mirror Hall”) which was the exclusive palace of Darius I although only a small portion of the palace was nished under his 36-year rule (522 BC to 486 BC).

His son and successor, Xerxes I, completed the palace a er his dad died and called the house a Taçara which means ‘winter palace’.

is is one of the few places that the re by Alexander the Great did not destroy.

Darius I (550 BC to 486 BC) was the third king of the Persian Achaemenid Empire and built Apadana Palace, described as the greatest palace at Persepolis. Construction started in 515 BC but was only completed 30 years later by his son, Xerxes I.

Oak and cedar beams which connected the seventy-two columns were brought in all the way from the hills of Lebanon.

Tomb of Artaxerxes II who ruled from 404 BC until his death in 358 BC.

Tomb of Artaxerxes at Naqsh-e-Rostam, near Persepolis and Shiraz.

e Mud City of Yazd

From Persepolis continue in a northeastern direction to the ancient city of Cyrus (Pasargadae) and then on to the “modern” city of Yazd which is another highlight of Iran. Located in central Iran (400 km northeast of Persepolis and 730 km south of Tehran), the city of Yazd (pop. of about 500,000) is the capital of Yazd province. Made from sun-dried mud bricks, the oldest part of the city is one of the oldest human settlements on earth.

e city was originally situated at an oasis roughly where the Dasht-e Kavir and the Dasht-e Lut deserts meet. e backdrop to Yazd is the impressive Shir Kuh, the tallest mountain in the region at 4,075 m. Nearby Kharanaq and Chak Chak are ancient mudbrick villages believed to be more than 1,000 years old. Chak Chak is the most sacred of the mountain shrines of Zoroastrianism in Iran.

Among the most impressive attractions of Yazd is the 15th century domed Bogheh-ye Seyed Roknaddin (Mausoleum of Seyed Roknaddin), with its ne blue-tiled dome which was also called “Alexander the Great’s Prison” as it has a dungeon. However, historians believe it was neither built by Alexander nor was it a prison. In fact, it was an old school.

e 12th century Jameh Mosque of Yazd was rebuilt between 1324 and 1365 and proudly sports two 48 m high minarets and an impressive mosaic-decorated dome. e colourful Amir Chakhmagh Mosque is freshly lit up at night. It was built in the 14th century by Amir Jalaledin Chakhmagh, one of the Shahrokh Teymuri’s commanders and the governor of Yazd, with the inspiration of his wife, Seti Fatimeh.

Being surrounded by very hot and dry deserts, Yazd is known for its “badgirs”, which are wind towers or windcatchers that create a natural ventilation in traditional Persian-in uenced architecture. ey function by creating a downward air ow due to direct wind entry followed by an upward air ow due to the temperature gradient. Yazd also has several old traditional houses such as the 150-year-old Khan-e Lari which is a Qajar-era traditional house complete with badgirs, traditional doors, stained-glass windows, elegant archways and even alcoves (vaults).

As a tourist, stay at the lovely “Silk Road Hotel” which is a guesthouse located in an old traditional Persian house.

Mausoleum of Seyed Roknaddin (above) in Yazd and the Jameh Mosque (right) also in Yazd.

The Amir Chakhmagh mosque was built in the 14th century by Amir Jalaledin Chakhmagh.

The city of Yazd with many badgir towers to keep the houses cool.

The Amir Chakhmagh mosque of Yazd.

Towers of Silence

A short distance outside Yazd is the dakhma or dema (“Towers of Silence”) which is historically a centre of Zoroastrianism.

e raised structure was used by the Zoroastrians for exposure of their dead, particularly to scavenging birds. Orthodox Zoroastrians continued to maintain their dakhma until the 1970s when they were shut down by law.

Since then they either cremate or bury the dead in graves lined with rocks, and plastered with cement to prevent direct contact with the earth.

Kharanaq & Chak-Chak

About 85 km northeast of Yazd is the ancient mud-brick village of Kharanaq. Some parts of the village is believed to be more than a thou-

sand years old but the site has been occupied by humans for more than four thousand years. A little north of Kharanaq, nestled in the mountains and surrounded by the desert,

is the small pilgrimage village of Chak Chak which houses one of the most sacred mountain shrines of Zoroastrianism.

“Towers of Silence” where sky burials were performed.

Village of Kharanaq.

The lonely desert road near Chak Chak in Central Iran.

Desert Oasis of Garmeh

Head into the deep desert. A 300 km trip northeast of Yazd ends at the oasis village of Garmeh. Trying to nd the village on a map of the vast Dashte-Kavir desert? Look for a tiny spot of a cluster of date trees next to a small pond of water at the foot of the nearby barren mountain.

Garmeh is truly an oasis village as the only water source of this mud village comes from a spring that ows out of the nearby mountains. e history of human settlement around this fountain dates back about 4,000 years, and possibly 7,000 years! During the more resent times (i.e. the past 2,000 years), this settlement was on the main route of the famous Silk Road.

is village is unquestionably rich in history and you get a true sense of its history by just walking around the ancient mud buildings, arches, and alleys. e village is surrounded by date and palm trees and of course the nearby springs with fresh water. A 60 minute drive to the north enters the vast dry salt lakes which has a surface area of about 3,000 square kilometre. On the way are many sand dunes, wild camels, and miles and miles of dry desert land!

The guardians of Ateshooni Guesthouse in Garmeh.

The desert oasis of Garmeh.

Kerman and the Kermani People

Head back to Yazd and get on the 360 km train ride in a southeast direction to the town of Kerman. Here you will nd the lovely Kermani people known for their hospitality and their great talents with making Persian carpets and pateh weaving - a unique woven and needle-work handicra . Kerman (pop. 650,000) is the capital city of Kerman province famous for its long history and cultural heritage which is evident in its array of mosques, historical buildings, grand bazaar, and Zoroastrian re temples. As a former capital of Persia, Kerman was home to many famous leaders. Today Kerman is also known for its clean streets, its bazaar, food, and the most beautiful carpets and pateh.

e Ganj Ali Khan Square in Kerman was built between 1596 and 1621 and measures 99 m by 54 m. e Bazar-e Ganj Ali Khan is a Safavid-era market building complex located in the old centre of the city of Kerman. e complex consists of a large square, school, caravanserai, a now non-active bathhouse, an ‘ab anbar’ (water reservoir), a mint, mosque and a busy bazaar. Ganjali Khan, governor of Kerman, Sistan and Kandahar provinces built this complex from 1596 to 1621 under the rule of Safavid-era ruler Shah Abbas I.

Also built in the Safavid-era, the Hamam-e Ganjali-khan (bathhouse) is located inside the Bazar-e Ganj Ali Khan. It is now restored as a museum and has mummies showing what the daily bathing routine must have looked like.

Fancy an atmospheric meal? Head over to the Hamam-eVakil Chaykhaneh which is a magni cent subterranean teahouse located in the old Vakil bathhouse built in 1820. If you are lucky you may dine at the sounds of a musician playing the Persian santoor. e Persian santoor is a trapezoid-shaped box o en made of walnut wood and has 72 strings in 18 sets of four.