Globerovers Magazine, July 2018

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Indonesia: Emerald of the Equator

Eloquently known as Zamrud Khatulistiwa (“Emerald of the Equator”), Indonesia is vast, spanning over 1.9 million square kilometres - the world’s 14th largest country in terms of land area. Come along as we explore this archipelago of over 17,500 islands. Known for its active volcanoes, deserted beaches, colourful tribes, remote villages, ancient ruins, and wildlife in dense jungles, we start in the historic town of Yogyakarta with its 9th-century temples; we then visit Borobudur Temple, the Dieng Plateau, and the islands of Bali, Lombok, the Gilis, and Flores.

Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago

Located in the Andaman Sea o the coast of southern Myanmar, the Myeik (or Mergui) Archipelago remains largely undiscovered by foreign travellers. Join us as we stay at Wa Ale Island Resort, a privately owned eco-tourism project on the island of Wa Ale in the Lampi Marine National Park. is is paradise!

South Africa’s Cape Peninsula

Table Mountain iconically renders Cape Town as one of the most picturesque cities in the world. We start our journey beneath the mountain, then travel south to Cape Point, visiting shing villages and beaches along the way. We then visit the beaches at Blouberg, Melkbos, and Yzerfontein along the Cape West Coast.

Laos, Land of a Million Elephants

While Laos may no longer have a million elephants roaming its jungles, this diverse country, rich in scenery and activities, caters to the needs of most adventurers, culture seekers, Buddhist a cionados, and even the foodies! We explore mountainous areas in the north to the Mekong River islands in the far south.

PHOTO ESSAYS

Darwin’s Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Hill Tribes of Sapa, Vietnam

Belarus: Castles, Churches, Singing Ladies

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

Postcards to Mom

CONTRIBUTIONS

Ozzie Loos

Diving Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago

Myanmar’s Tattooed-Face Women

Dempster Highway - Arctic Canada

The Dolomites. Proudly Italian Wines of the Dolomites

Save the Rhino

Travellers in the Spotlight

Book Reviews

TOP LISTS

10 Travel Experiences in Indonesia

9 Must-Do’s in Laos

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Europe’s Lilliputian Countries

We explore Europe’s smallest countries: e Vatican, Monaco, San Marino, Liechtenstein, Malta, Andorra, Luxembourg, Cyprus, Kosovo, and Montenegro.

Candi Bukit Ijo, Desa Sambirejo, Prambanan, Java, Indonesia.

ARTICLES + PHOTOS

THE FRONT COVER:

Sunrise

Globerovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A. and Europe

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Chief Proofreader - Janet-Lynn Vorster

Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom

Sales - Leon Ringwell

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CONTACT US: editor@globerovers.com

Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this 11th issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is Indonesia, with its thousands of islands and the world’s second longest coastline (a er Canada). Join us as we explore Central Java, and the islands of Bali, Lombok, East Nusa Tenggara, and many more idyllic locations.

We also have inspiring stories about the unspoiled and unexplored Myeik Archipelago of southern Myanmar. Turquoise crystal clean waters and silky white beaches complete with a brand new resort t for royalty! Staying in Asia, we explore the mountains and hill tribes of northern Laos, the thousands of islands in the Mekong River to the far south, and a few places in between. We also have our regular stories from South Africa. is time we travel from Cape Town around the Cape Peninsula and then north along the beaches of the Cape West Coast.

We have Photo Essays of Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands, the far north of Vietnam, Belarus - the former Soviet Republic, and Myanmar’s tattooed-face Chin women.

A special thank you to our sponsors and also to our contributors who we introduce on page 5.

Lets connect on social media and visit www.globerovers-magazine.com. For easy access, scan the QR codes on page 7.

Feedback: editor@globerovers.com. I travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn PhD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

over the 9th-century ruins of Borobudur temple, Java Island, Indonesia.

THE FRONT COVER

The 9th-century ruins of Borobudur temple, located on Indonesia’s Java Island, are best visited before sunrise. The hues of pink and blue are surreal.

CONTRIBUTORS

All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just wouldn’t be the same!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 102)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern African editor as well as Chief Proofreader for Globerovers Magazine.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 66)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Juan Gallardo, Yangon, Myanmar (Page 82)

Juan is a born adventurer from the Spanish city of Seville and has lived in the UK, the US and Europe. Juan frst visited Myanmar in 2012 and has been living in Yangon since 2014. He is passionate about photography and Burmese cuisine.

Gilad Fiskus, Tel Aviv, Israel (Page 92)

Gilad was born in Montréal, Canada, in 1965 and has been living in Israel since his early childhood. In 1989 he graduated with honours from the Dentistry School at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. He currently practices dental aesthetics from his offce near Tel Aviv.

Yrene Dee, Lumby, BC, Canada (Page 132)

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.

Daniele Sommavilla, Belluno, Italy (page 174)

Daniele was born and raised in Belluno, the heart of the Dolomites, and is an avid skier and hiker. He works at Certilogo in Milano, an innovative consumer technology platform enabling passionate skiers globally to validate the authenticity of their ski gear before purchasing.

Elisabetta Tosi, Valpolicella, Italy (page 182)

Elisabetta is an experienced freelance wine journalist, wine blogger, and new media consultant. From Valpolicella (Veneto region) where she lives, she writes about Italian wines and wineries for international online and offine magazines, and she is always ready for new travel adventures.

Katherine Johnston, London, England (page 184)

Katherine is Save the Rhino International’s Communications Manager. She read Modern History and English at Oxford, before completing an MA at London’s School of Oriental and African Studies. She is a consultant to the Lynx UK Trust and Trustee of ResonanceFM.

Additional Contributors:

A special thanks to our interviewees in the “Travellers in the Spotlight” section, Jessica and Laurence Norah, Craig Thompson, and Yrene Dee. Thanks also to our authors Michela Fantinel and Chris Backe for their book interviews.

The Globerovers‛ World

Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.

It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore Africa & the Pacific Islands in the coming months. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan

Albania

Andorra

Argentina

Armenia

Australia

Austria

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Bangladesh

Belarus

Belgium

Belize

Bolivia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Brazil

Brunei

Bulgaria

Cambodia

Canada

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

Croatia

Cuba

Cyprus

Czech Rep.

Denmark

Ecuador

Egypt

El Salvador

Estonia

Finland

France

Georgia

Germany

Greece

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

Hong Kong

Hungary

Iceland

India

Indonesia

Iran

Ireland

Israel

Italy

Japan

Jordan

Kazakhstan

Kosovo

Kyrgyzstan

Laos

Latvia

Lebanon

Lesotho

Liechtenstein

Lithuania

Luxembourg

Macau

Macedonia

Malaysia

Maldives

Malta

Mauritius

Mexico

Moldova

Monaco

Montenegro

Morocco

Myanmar / Burma

Namibia

Nepal

Netherlands

New Zealand

Nicaragua

North Korea

Norway

Oman

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Paraguay

Peru

Philippines

Poland

Portugal

Romania

Russia

San Marino

Serbia

Singapore

Slovakia

Slovenia

South Africa

South Korea

Spain

Sri Lanka

Swaziland

Sweden

Switzerland

Syria

Taiwan

Tajikistan

Thailand

Timor Leste (East Timor)

Turkey

Ukraine

United Arab Emirates

United Kingdom

United States

Uruguay

Uzbekistan

Vanuatu

Vatican

Vietnam

Yemen

Zambia

Zimbabwe

122 and counting..

SOUTH

DESTINATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

Jakarta

Central Java

Bali and Lombok Islands

Komodo Island

Thinking about Indonesia evokes visions of active volcanoes, deserted beaches, colourful tribes and their festivals, remote villages, ancient ruins, and wildlife in dense jungles facing the rapid destruction of their habitat. Sounds like another country quali ed to be promoted under the slogan of “Many Countries in One”. While this slogan may be well founded, this “one country” is surely not surveyed in one single visit, unless you are spending months on end.

Indonesia is vast, and that’s an understatement. Spanning over 1.9 million square kilometres, it is the world’s 14th largest country in terms of land area. Also referred to as the “Indonesian Archipelago”, it consists of over 17,500 o cially listed islands, of which 16,056 island names have now been

Emerald of the Equator

Planning a travel adventure through the Indonesian Archipelago

can be overwhelming! Where to start and where to end. What to do and what not. Don’t fret. Get in on the one side and out on the other side. In between, grab as many adventures as possible! No regrets!

veri ed by a United Nations working group referred to as the UN Group of Experts on Geographical Names (UNGEGN). at sure is a lot of named islands to visit, let alone the yet unnamed islands!

Among the larger islands are Sumatra, Java, Kalimantan (part of Borneo Island), Sulawesi, and West Papua. Many of the smaller islands that are popular among travellers are Flores, Bali, Komodo, Lombok, and a few others. When it comes to intrepid travel across Indonesia, the sky is the limit. e adventures are endless and the oppor-

tunities to discover the undiscovered are almost uncountable!

For travellers who have never set foot in this vast and diverse country with a population of over 261 million people, it is tough to recommend the ideal starting point. Let’s start with a few of the highlights, and in the future, we will talk about the islands hardly ever visited by travellers. Welcome to the Indonesian islands of Bali, Lombok, the Gili Islands, the islands of Flores, Komodo, Padar, Rinca, and the central region of Java Island.

YOGYAKARTA & SURROUNDINGS

“Jogja City” is the soul of Java Island known for it culture, arts, and history.

The city of Yogyakarta, gateway to Central Java Island, has more than enough attractions to keep the curious traveller busy for a few days.

If you are into arts and cra s, start o with a look at how the artistic locals create batik fabrics. Several markets and even some museums showcase their intrinsic works of art.

Yogyakarta is home to the garden chateau of Taman Sari Palace, with its elaborate series of swimming pools built during the Portuguese colonial times. Nearby Keraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat Palace, simply known as Yogyakarta Palace, is the main seat of the Sultan of Yogyakarta and his family and has a cultural centre with a museum. Don’t miss the theatrical performance with shadow puppets (Wayang Kulit) at the Sonobudoyo Museum around the corner from the palace.

Yogyakarta is also the gateway to many interesting places around Central Java Island. If you are craving for beach life, head south of the city to Pantai Parangtritis, Pantai Parangkusumo, and Pantai Cemara Sewu Bantul.

However, if spectacular ancient temple ruins are of interest to you, drive about 15 km east of the city to the impressive Prambanan temple, surrounded by several slightly less signi cant temple complexes. Prambanan temple, also referred to as Candi Prambanan or Loro Jonggrang, built in the 9th century, is dedicated to the Hindu god of Shiva and consists of no less than 240 temples in total.

e three tallest temples at Prambanan, rising to a height of up to 47 m, are decorated with reliefs illustrating the ancient Indian epic poem of Ramayana and dedicated to the three great Hindu divinities of their god as the creator (Brahma), the preserver (Vishnu) and the destroyer (Shiva).

ree surrounding temples are dedicated to the animals that serve them.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Prambanan is the largest Hindu temple in

all of Indonesia. Much of the complex is well preserved, and much appreciated by the locals and foreign visitors alike.

Entrance fees for foreigners are steep and the number of local visitors can be overwhelming, so best arrive at 6 am when the gates open. Located on the border between the two provinces of Yogyakarta and Central Java, the other structures within the Prambanan temple compound, known as the Prambanan Archaeological Park, include the 8th-century Sewu temple complex. In total, the park has around 500 temples.

Sewu temple, with its four pairs of giant Dwarapala gate guardian statues,

is Indonesia’s second largest Buddhist complex (a er Borobudur), which includes the temples of Lumbung, Bubrah and Asu. ese are mostly decorated with the Indonesian version of the Ramayana illustrations. While overall not as impressive as Prambanan, Sewu is a feast for the eyes if you are looking for the smaller details.

Other temples in the wider area include the Buddhist temple complex of Plaosan, which is near the Dengok River and surrounded by rice paddies along with vegetation such as bananas and corn. e complex consists of about 250 smaller temples and stupas, many of them merely in a state of jumbled pieces.

Prambanan temple. Sewu temple.

Prambanan temple.

“Jogja” is a vibrant cultural city with many historical landmarks. A great base from where to explore the vast temple complex east of town.

Built in the mid-9th century during Central Java’s Hindu-Buddhist Kingdom of Medang, the Plaosan complex is split into a smaller southern section, Plaosan Kidul, and the larger northern section, Plaosan Lor.

e mid to southern side of Plaosan Lor is the most spectacular, in particular the two main shrine buildings known as the viharas. e southern vihara, which has been better protected than its northern counterpart, houses mostly male statues in contrast to the mostly female statues in the northern vihara. While there is no credible explanation for this, some conjecture theories are that the northern vihara was a nunnery, while the southern a monastery. Other than the male and female statues, both viharas are very similar in their layout.

As you step into the dark interior, let

your eyes adjust to the low light and you will nd that apart from the small entrance chamber, there are also three small rooms serving as shrines.

In the entrance chamber is a pair of monsters anked by winged half-bird, half-woman creatures, known in southeast Asian Buddhist mythology as kinnaras. In the central shrine chamber are two Bodhisattva statues in the typical varamudra Buddhist pose. While some of the statues’ arms or hands have been broken o over the years, some le hands are holding a ower, which identi es them as Avalokiteśvara, a bodhisattva (someone practising the way of life of a Buddha) who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas.

e small chambers on both sides contain a similar layout of Bodhisattva statues of which most sit on lotus thrones on an elevated altar. e interior walls have

Central JavA Yogyakarta

interesting and complex relief carvings of deities, monks and dignitaries from the Medang Kingdom.

You can easily spend hours trying to gure out the inscriptions and compositions. Be careful not to hit your head or even your knees or hands against the wall as they are constructed of ancient volcanic rock with very sharp edges.

e Plaosan complex gets considerably fewer visitors than Prambanan and is a peaceful area to explore. Only the large fearsome-looking statues of the Dwarapala

A few tips

Foreign visitors pay substantially more than local Indonesians to visit these temples. Recently, fees were hiked signifcantly. As an example, the entrance fee to Ratu Boko for foreigners is US$25 while locals pay IDR 40,000 (about US$3). Similar fees apply to Prambanan temple, though a combo ticket for Ratu Boko and Prambanan costs US$40.

To rent a car and driver to take you to these temples costs another $50 to $60 per day. All in all, an expensive day to see crumbling ruins.

To save the cost of hiring a taxi, you can easily take a local bus, such as bus 1A, from Yogyakarta’s main street, Jalan Malioboro, to the end of the line, which is near Prambanan temple.

To reach all the surrounding temples will require a fair amount of walking though. Plaosan lies about 3 km northeast of Prambanan (Sewu temple is along the way), while Ratu Boko is about 3 km south of Prambanan. Sambisari temple is a few kilometres west while Ijo temple is on a hill a few kilometres southeast of Ratu Boko.

You will thank yourself if you at least hire a taxi once you are done at Prambanan to take you to the rest of the temples. In total, three to four hours to visit all the temples should be enough.

Plaosan Lor temple and smouldering Mount Merapi in the background.

temple guardians can disturb your peace and quiet. Armed with a snake, rope and a sword, they protect the temple against all evil spirits. But don’t fear, as I heard they also protect inquisitive travellers.

Directly south of Prambanan temple is Ratu Boko Temple Palace, fondly referred to as the “sunset temple”, as most visitors come here to see the setting sun throwing its last fainting rays around the ancient archway remains of the temple.

Located on a hillside overlooking the Prambanan temples with Mount Merapi as its backdrop, Ratu Boko was built in the 9th century. Sadly, much of it has been destroyed so only a few door archways are still standing and the long ight of stairs to reach them.

Halfway back to Yogyakarta is the small sunken Sambisari temple, also known as the “underground temple”. It

was discovered by chance when a farmer, working in his paddy eld, hit a solid object and then dug deeper to unearth a large solid carved stone.

A er reporting it to the Yogyakarta Archaeological O ce, they concluded that a large ancient temple was buried here under the rocks sent by an erupting Mount Merapi in 1906. A er a long and tedious excavation, reconstruction and restoration, the temple was nally opened to the public in 1987. You won’t see this temple from afar as it remains about 6.5 metres below the surrounding ground level.

Descend one of the stairways situated at each of the four corners to reach the small temple. e main temple is 7.5 metres tall with several niches on all sides decorated with statues of Shiva, Mahaguru, Ganesha, and Durga.

Southeast of Prambanan temple and

Ratu Boko temple, located at the highest altitude of all temples in this area (410 metres), is Ijo temple, located in Bukit Ijo, in the Sambirejo regency.

Also built during the 9th century, this complex consists of 17 buildings across 11 terraces, though only those at the top terrace have been restored. e temples are decorated with various forms of Hindu carvings.

e views from Ijo temple are spectacular and a popular spot for romantic lovers to come and watch the sun setting over Yogyakarta’s Adisutjipto airport, and the city of Yogyakarta. e small temples are not nearly as spectacular as this setting high above the city. Don’t miss the views of smouldering Mount Merapi volcano, which lies less than 30 km to the north.

You could easily spend a few days exploring this area!

Indonesia: Yogyakarta

Bukit Ijo temple. Bukit Ijo temple.

Sambisari temple.

Sambisari temple.

Indonesia: Yogyakarta

Candi Plaosan Lor in Bugisan village, Central Java

The smouldering Mount Merapi rises high in the background of Candi Plaosan. Surrounded by rice paddies along with vegetation such as bananas and corn, this mid-9th century temple was constructed during Central Java’s Hindu-Buddhist Kingdom of Medang.

The complex consists of about 250 smaller temples and stupas, many of them merely in a state of jumbled pieces. Here you can spend hours trying to fgure out the inscriptions and compositions on the inside and outside. Be careful not to hit your head or even your knees or hands against the walls as they are constructed of ancient volcanic rock with very sharp edges.

Central JavA borobudur

Sunrise over Borobudur temple.

BOROBUDUR TEMPLE

One of the crown jewels in the world’s collection of ancient temple ruins.

Are you fantasizing about an ancient temple lost for centuries in the dense tropical jungle, only to be rediscovered by you whilst riding on an Asian elephant? at may be an exotic dream, but you should have been here in the early 1800’s, or at least before the late 1980’s.

At the time when the remains of the 9th century ruins of Borobudur temple were rediscovered in 1814, it looked very di erent from what we see today.

What we see today is even di erent from just 10 or 20 years ago. It’s not so much the ruins themselves that changed over the past decade or two, but the increase in the number of visitors. Gone are the days when you could feel like a lonely jungle explorer at Borobudur.

As you approach the large car park, the modern entrance gates, and the line-ups of people, you may feel like turning around!

e Borobudur Temple Tourist Park Management reported that Borobudur received close to four million visitors in 2016. Back in 1974, only about 260,000 tourists visited,

including 36,000 foreigners.

For most travellers to Indonesia’s Central Java region, the ruins of Borobudur temple are the highlight of their visit and the main reason for coming here. For many, Borobudur is the only place they will visit before they y out to faraway places.

Borobudur can get crowded, very crowded, especially during the annual celebration of Buddha’s birthday, known as Vesak Day. is day commemorates the birth, enlightenment (Buddhahood), and death (Parinirvāna) of the Buddha.

On Vesak Day, ursday May 11th 2017, about 40,000 devotees ocked through the gates! Also on location were about 3,500 merchants, and over 70 tour guides. Get the picture?

Don’t despair! Visit Borobudur in January, February or March, reliably the wettest time of the year, and you will nd signicantly fewer visitors. July and August are usually the driest months, but the heat and high level of humidity can make a fullday visit unbearable.

So, while you can nd times of the year when fewer people visit, it is a surreal experience to be here during the Vesak Day festival when orange-robed monks descend from all over Asia!

Festivities start early in the morning with a Buddhist mass prayer and meditation at the nearby 9th century Mendut temple. A very colourful and long, slow-moving parade then leaves the temple, passing by the 9th century temple of Pawon, and 4 km later delivers the holy water and eternal ame to Borobudur temple.

is is an incredible parade you don’t want to miss. e evening performances in front of Borobudur temple include mass praying with monks chanting and meditating, as well as colourful traditional dances. Late in the

Arrive at the temple before sunrise and witness as the sun rises over the smouldering Merapi volcano casting hues of pinks and blues over the ruins. Surreal.

evening you can join in the mass release of ying paper lanterns, which is quite a spectacle, albeit poorly organized. Photographing these performances and lanterns on this beautiful full moon evening, with the imposing Borobudur temple in the backdrop, is an opportunity all photographers cherish. e festivities continue until sunrise following hours of meditation, praying, and a ritual of walking three times around the temple.

Even during high season, it is possible to have a peaceful time at the temple. e day before your intended visit, hop over to the Manohora Hotel, located near the main entrance, to buy your “sunrise tour” ticket at a he y IDR 450,000 per foreigner. At current rates, this amounts to about US$33. However, there is no limitation to the number of sunrise tickets the hotel sells, so technically you can purchase the ticket at the hotel ticketing counter at 4.20 am on the day you want to see sunrise over Borobudur temple. Included in the fee is a small ashlight which you will need when entering the temple grounds at about 4:30 am until the sun rises at around 5:40 am, depending on the time of the year you visit.

You will also be entitled to co ee and a snack at the time of leaving, but not later than 9 am when the hotel’s free co ee stand closes!

A regular day ticket, which allows you to enter at 6 am, costs $25, so the sunrise ticket is only $8 more. Is it worth this higher fee? Absolutely. At the time I visited there were about 30 of us who entered at 4:30 am. Between the time we entered, which was still quite dark, and the time of sunrise at 05:42 on May 12th, the light is at its best.

e best part of the sunrise was during the early twilight period before the sun actually peaked over the horizon. e blue and pink hues against the stupas and statues were surreal. By the time the gates opened at 6 am for the general public, the sun was already high and the magical hours were long gone. Along with the bright sunlight came the hordes of school children. I was amazed that the kids got up so early in the morning to see the temple.

Borobudur temple is a Mahayana Buddhist temple, and the world’s largest Buddhist temple. e imposing central dome, surrounded by 72 Buddha images inside perforated stupas, rests on top of nine stacked platforms that are decorated

with 2,672 relief panels and the images of 504 Buddhas.

Following the decline of the Hindu kingdoms on Java Island as people increasingly converted to Islam, Borobudur’s importance started to diminish during the 10th or 11th century and was all but abandoned by the end of the 14th century. It then fell into ruins and was subsequently covered by volcanic ash and swallowed by the dense jungle. Some local superstitions associated the ruins with unfathomable bad luck, misfortunes, and misery, so people were forbidden to get near the ruins.

Forgotten and lost for centuries, it wasn’t until the early 19th century that Java’s British ruler, Sir omas Stamford Ra es, investigated rumours of a lost civilization in Central Java. With help from the local Indonesians, he roughly pinpointed the location and then sent H.C. Cornelius, a Dutch engineer, to nd the temple. With a load of natives alongside, he cut through the dense jungle for about two months to eventually reach the ruins. Sadly, they could see little of the ruined temple as it was mostly covered in jungle and volcanic ash. It took another 20 years before the entire temple complex was unearthed.

For the next few years, several expeditions arrived to survey the site and made detailed sketches of the temple remains. e rst photograph was taken in 1872, most likely using a gelatin dry plate as photographic paper lm was only invented in 1885. As more people became aware of the nd, it attracted many “souvenir hunters” and thieves who plundered the ruins. One of the “inspectors” who visited in 1882 even recommended that all the beautiful reliefs should be moved away to museums. In 1896, King Chulalongkorn of ailand, then known as Siam, visited the area and took eight cartloads of sculptures, Buddha images and other items home with him, which are still on display in the Java Art room of e National Museum in Bangkok.

e rst restoration of the temple commenced during the early 20th century. However, it was not until 1975 that the Indonesian government, supported by UNESCO, undertook a complete restoration. It took more than 600 workers, at a total cost of almost seven million US dollars to complete the project over the next seven years. e work has been compared to putting together the pieces of a massive one million-piece jigsaw puzzle. Borobu-

AMANJIWO RESORT

Borobudur Java, Indonesia

Amanjiwo, set within an amphitheatre of lush palms and rice felds, is a sanctuary inspired by Java’s ancient past and vibrant present.

dur was eventually listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

e newly rebuilt temple continues to ght the daily onslaughts of the elements of destruction. In 1985, nine stupas were badly damaged by nine bombs, a bombing carried out by an Islamic extremist group.

e Indonesian branch of ISIS recently threatened to destroy Borobudur and other statues in Indonesia. An ongoing threat is the overload of visitors trampling all over the brittle stone blocks, and don’t be surprised to nd gra ti on the stones. e eruption of Mount Merapi in 2010 covered the temple in a layer of acidic volcanic ash up to 2.5 centimetres thick.

Spend at least three or four days in the town of Borobudur. While there are ample accommodation options, be sure to book months in advance if you plan to visit during any festive period, particularly during the Vesak Day festival.

Central Java is a gem. If you are into active volcanic action, including hiking up the slopes, or love visiting ancient temple ruins, Central Java is the place for you!

Borbobudur Temple, Central Java Borobudur, the 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple (the world’s largest Buddhist temple) shines in the early morning sun near Magelang, Central Java.

DIENG PLATEAU

Get close to raw nature with bubbling mud pools and steaming vents.

Formed by the eruption of ancient Mountain Prau, Dieng Plateau is a complex of calderas situated at about 2,000 metres above sea level, 130 km northeast of Yogyakarta city.

e plateau derives its name ‘dieng’ from the two Sanskrit words of ‘di’ meaning ‘place’ and ‘hyang’ meaning ‘gods’, so it is the ‘place of the gods’. Some folklore has it that the name refers to ‘strange beauty’ because the plateau has many beautiful places to visit. is is true, and visitors to the area can attest to this.

Attractions can be grouped into ancient temple ruins, volcanic activity, volcanic lakes and mountains, and rice terraces.

e drive from Yogyakarta to Dieng Plateau is invigorating, especially as you get closer to the steep roads up to the plateau with the cool thin air.

On the eastern side of the plateau are several temple ruins worth visiting. ese include Candi (temple) Bima, Candi

Setyaki, Candi Arjuna, and further to the north is Candi Dwarawati. All four of these temple ruins are of similar size and stature.

While incomparable to the Prambanan or Borobudur temples, they are so unimposing, standing in the middle of the rice elds, that the location is almost more impressive than the small temples themselves.

Dating back to between the 7th and 8th centuries, these Hindu temples are among the oldest known standing stone structures in Central Java. Originally, there used to be many more than the few we can see today, with some estimates ranging between three to four hundred. Some of

Java Island and into the Indian Ocean, over a distance of 181 km.

To the south of Tuk Bimo Lukar lies Telaga Warna, the “colourful lakes”. e surrounding natural forests create a mystical atmosphere, which is sometimes accompanied by a white mist that envelops the area. e name of the lake is derived from the natural phenomenon that causes its waters to uctuate from green to yellow to blue-purple, and sometimes all colours of the rainbow at once! is phenomenon occurs due to the high sulphur content, so depending on the position of the sun it re ects a variety of colours.

these temples, such as Arjuna, found by a British explorer in 1814, used to be in the middle of a lake. By draining the lake, the temple was exposed and later reconstructed.

Stop at Tuk Bimo Lukar fountain, located in the same area as the temples. is ancient bathing spring is considered holy as it is the origin of the Serayu River which ows from northeast to southwest over

Drive up into the hills where you can climb a wooden lookout tower for great views over the lakes. For the hot sulphur lakes and steam vents, head south to Kawah Sikidang, or northwest to Kawah Sileri, or even further northwest to Kawah Candradimuka.

e latter is far from the other attractions and hard to access, so it is o en skipped by travellers. e tiny road leading up to Kawah Candradimuka is a di cult one and should only be attempted on foot, or with a strong four-wheel drive. Even a motorbike is not advisable unless you have a powerful scrambler. Once there, the rewards are outstanding! A narrow ight of stairs leads down past lush ferns and into the crater where you will nd two boiling pits of water: the biggest pit o en boiling so vigorously that it ejects water high into the air. e power of the steam vents and bubbling boiling waters can be frighten-

Indonesia: Dieng Plateau

Steam rising out of Kawah Sileri.

Lonesome Candi Bima.

The marshy plateau, located 2,090 metres above sea level, is a perfect getaway from the heat and bustle of Yogyakarta.

ing. What makes this a special place is that it’s mostly void of people. It’s you and raw nature side by side. Sometimes you have to hold your breath when moving around to prevent breathing in the sulphurous smoke. Do not slip and slide or you will become so ly cooked soup. e bubbling waters here are erce and they are right next to the footpath among the lush growing ferns. A sudden and intensive outburst of boiling water can cause severe damage to all life in the vicinity, including yourself. So, walk carefully and pray for the best!

Kawah Sileri is a peaceful steaming giant! A smoking crater lled with gently boiling water and eerily dri ing steam. However, be warned as this sleeping giant had a sudden steam-driven explosion (phreatic eruption) during July 2017 which injured several people, some of who were hospitalized with severe burns. Without

any warning, Sileri ejected a column of steam, gasses, and mud, which fell up to 50 metres from the lake. Sadly, the rescue helicopter crashed, killing the eight people on board. A similar but larger eruption occurred here in September 2009 a ecting an area of 100 metres radius. As with any area of volcanic activity, we are taking a massive risk to get close to the source, as sudden over-activity can occur without warning.

If you still desire more volcanic activity with steam vents and strong sulphur emissions, drive over to Kawah Sikidang. is volcanic crater has ample steaming vents and frantically bubbling mud ponds. Hold your breath as you walk around, as the sulphurous smoke can be intense. Exercise caution as there are few guard rails to keep you from slipping o the trails and into the boiling waters. Don’t become soup!

Arguably the highlight of a trip to

Central JavA Dieng Plateau

Dieng Plateau, and a good way of saying goodbye to this beautiful part of Central Java, is to wake up early in the morning and set out at 4 am into the dark to climb Sikunir Hill near Sembungan village. From the village, it is about a 30-minute steep hike up the stairs to the top of Sikunir Hill. Here you will wait with a small but dedicated crowd for sunrise over the smokepu ng Gunung Sindoro volcano. On a clear morning, look east into the rising sun and you will see both active Merapi and dormant Merbabu volcanoes. Even in the wee hours of the morning, the many friendly food vendors along the hike up Sikunir Hill provide a welcoming aroma. Try the wok-fried locally grown baby potatoes!

Sunrise over smoke-puffng Gunung Sindoro volcano as viewed from Sikunir Hill.

Dieng Plateau terraces. Kawah Sikidang. Kawah Candradimuka.

BALI ISLAND

The “Island of Gods” is developing fast but remains charming and beautiful.

Commonly referred to as the “Island of a ousand Temples”, “Island of Gods”, and “Bali Dwipa”, Bali island is the most-visited Indonesian island by foreign travellers. While most travellers start and end their Indonesia journey in Bali, o en xated on their luxurious tourist resorts and spas, Indonesia is much more than Bali. Many seasoned travellers to Indonesia will argue that Bali is not Indonesia. Bali is uniquely Bali, and not typical of Indonesia.

As a starter, while most Indonesian people are Muslim, the Balinese people practice Balinese-Hinduism.

e Balinese-Hindus celebrate about 60 religious holidays a year, so they commonly organise their lives around the practice of their religion with almost every aspect of their lives involving prayer, worshipping, and o erings to their gods.

Di erent ceremonies form an essential part of every Balinese person’s journey through life, a journey of colour, aromas, and celebration. eir culture is vividly expressed through their traditional arts, dances, festivals, and religious o ering ceremonies.

e island of Bali lies just over three km east of Java island, separated by the Bali Strait. e island has the shape of a sick chicken facing west towards Java, with a land area of almost 5,800 km².

Bali’s central mountains include several peaks rising over 3,000 metres in elevation, with Mount Agung, or locally known as Gunung Agung, the highest at 3,031 metres. Mount Agung is an active stratovolcano which, prior to the current eruptions, last erupted in 1963, one of the most devastating volcanic eruptions in the modern seismographic history of Indonesia. e cone-shaped peak dominates the surrounding area, even in uencing the rainfall patterns. Since September 2017 there has been an increase of seismic activity around the volcano which has resulted in the evacuation of thousands of residents

from the surrounding areas. For months the volcano continued spewing ash clouds, mud ows and re. Locals remain on high alert.

Bali is known for its beaches. ose in the south tend to have white sand while those in the north and west have black sand, ample evidence of Bali’s historic formation and reshaping by volcanic eruptions. e big swells make for great surfing, and being surrounded by coral reefs makes diving one of the main attractions for many travellers ocking to Bali.

e Crowded South

e largest concentration of tourist hotels is in the south along the beaches of Nusa Dua and Sanur on the eastern side, and Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak on the west.

rice farmers are known globally for their skills in producing high quality rice. Maybe it is because the Balinese believe that Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice, should be honoured to ensure good rice harvests. e farmers even set up shrines in their rice paddies to honour Dewi Sri.

Rice is an inherent part of Balinese life. e Balinese even have three names for rice, depending on the form it takes: when growing it is referred to as padi, when stored in a bag it is beras, and when cooked and ready to be eaten, it is called nasi.

One of the best areas to experience these splendid rice terraces is at Tegalallang, about 10 km north of Ubud town.

e Jatiluwih rice terraces in central Bali are also beautiful. Belimbing’s rice terraces to the southwest of Jatiluwih are also among the best!

Over the past ten to twenty years, these once rustic areas have been invaded by luxury hotels, superstores, fancy restaurants, and upscale nightclubs. ere are ample famous Western brand fast food restaurants and luxury clothing stores. Areas that once had a little scattering of travellers, are now crowded with tourists from around the world. e roads are jammed with cars which makes even crossing the road di cult.

I nd it rather sad how the southern part of Bali has been transformed from a “rustic village” to a crowded upscale tourist destination. e product of mass tourism!

If you despise beautiful islands overcrowded with tourists, head up north, past Seminyak to the beaches of Kerobokan and Canggu, and even further north to the beautiful Tanah Lot Temple. Bali island is large and there are many areas along the coast which still remain o the beaten track, imbued with tranquillity and a rustic laid-back character.

e Rice Terraces

Once you leave the larger towns such as Denpasar and the touristy areas of Kuta, Legian and Sanur, you will drive past endless rice elds and terraces.

e Balinese

ere is no best season to see the rice terraces of Bali. It all depends on whether you want to see some re ection in the water shimmering around the newly-planted rice seedlings, or the ourishing green stage, or di erent shades of yellow before the rice is harvested. In fact, seeing and photographing rice cultivation at any stage is fascinating, from planting to harvesting.

However, do make sure to visit Bali when the hillsides and valleys are at their greenest, which is at the tail-end of the wet season, from February to April. Rice in Bali

Bali’s main tourist attraction areas are suffering greatly under mass tourism, though its easy to get away and escape the crowds and development.

BALI ISLAND

Highlights of Bali

The island of Bali has enough attractions and activities to keep anybody occupied for weeks on end. Here are a few highlights for frst-time visitors:

• The crowded towns and beaches in the south still have some charm, in particular during off-season.

• Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, is a place where you can easily spend many days relaxing, being pampered in spas and enjoying the cuisines at many romantic restaurants and resorts.

• Northwest of Ubud are the Alas Kedaton temple, the Pura Luhur Batukaru temple located on the southern slope of Mount Batukaru, and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, a Shaivite water temple.

• Northwest of Ubud are the Pura Ulun Danu Batur temple and the scenic Danau Batur Hot Springs.

• A bit further south lies the Pura Besakih, the “Mother Temple of Bali”, on the southwestern slope of active Mount Agung volcano.

• There is so much more to see and experience than this short list. Rent a car and drive all around the island.

Crowded Seminyak beach in the south. Kacek dance at Pura Luhur Uluwatu. Hindu prayer time on Kuta Beach.

Jatiluwih rice terraces.

is harvested during the dry season which generally lasts from early June to the end of July. Note that many areas have more than a single crop per year. Some have up to three crops, which makes it hard to pin down the exact time of the year to see the lush green terraces, though in the wet season you are guaranteed swathes of greenery!

Ubud Town

A typical day trip from the southern beaches driving north to the town of Ubud will provide an opportunity to enjoy the interesting Bali Bird & Reptile Park,

Ubud - It’s a Way of Life

Ubud has a long history for many travellers who stay here on every visit to Bali, many who moved here to make Bali their seasonal or permanent home.

Ubud is a way of life. You either have Ubud in your blood, or you soon will. Like many places on the island, Ubud has seen more tranquil times in the past.

Back 20 years ago, on my very frst visit, the town was rustic and laid back with only a handful of foreign visitors. Sadly, nowadays the streets are often locked in traffc jams with bus-loads of tourists descending on Ubud, taking day trips from the southern beach resorts and hotels.

Still, Ubud is a way of life to many who live by the rhythm of the town. It has it all: great restaurants, yoga, meditations, spas and massages, artists, shops, temples, museums, everything you need.

Cycle or hike out of town, or stay in a guest house on the fringes of town, and you will be at ease among the lush tropical vegetation only interrupted by ancient moss-covered Hindu temples and shrines. Sit down next to a meandering stream and fnd peace and quiet. It is a way of life. Ubud life!

the Bali Zoo, Tegenungan Waterfall, and the Goa Gajah Gianyar (Elephant Cave Temple). A few minutes’ drive east will get you to Pura Samuan Tiga, and the same distance south to Yeh Pulu with its ancient Balinese rock carvings.

From here drive to Ubud and sleep in one of the many guesthouses or hotels catering for all budgets. Some of the more special accommodation is located on the fringes of Ubud town, nestled among the rice elds.

Among the highlights in the art-lover’s town of Ubud are the monkey forest, the Pura Taman Saraswati temple, the Pura Padang Kerta temple, Puri Saren royal palace, and the art markets around town.

Make sure to see an evening performance of Kecak dance at the Pura Dalem Taman Kaja, and visit a spa and have a Balinese massage. Other interesting traditional performances include the Barong “scary mask dance”, Baris “war dance”, Legong “pointed lady nger dance”, and the cendrawasih dance performed by two ladies depicting the mating rituals of the bird of paradise.

Get up before sunrise and walk down to the bridge over the river at the Gunung Lebah temple. From here the Campuhan Ridge Walk meanders high above the quaint valleys on both sides, past beautiful scenery and a few small restaurants that serve breakfast with strong Bali Kintamani co ee. e air is cool, and the hillside vistas are beautiful.

e Northwest

e area north of Ubud to the crater lakes of Danau Beratan in the northwest, and Danau Batur towards the northeast, are best explored over a two-day period.

On the rst day, stop at the beautiful Taman Ayun temple in the village of Mengwi. Built in the early 17th century, this temple is a classic example of traditional architectural features loved by the rulers of the Mengwi kingdom. e towering tiers of the temple shrines and its courtyards and enclosures, complete with expansive garden landscapes with lotus and sh ponds make this temple special.

A short drive to the north of Taman Ayun temple will take you to the Alas Kedaton monkey forest. is monkey forest gets far fewer tourists than the Ubud monkey forest. e Balinese long-tail Macaques

are considered sacred, and with the hordes of ying foxes, they have taken over the Alas Kedaton temple and its moss-covered walls which are being swallowed by the dense misty forest of tall nutmeg trees.

Continuing further north you will nd the Pura Luhur Batukaru temple, located on the southern slope of Mount Batukaru,

Pura Taman Ayun.

Bali’s second-highest volcano. Built during the 11th century and destroyed in the 17th century, it was rebuilt in 1959. e tallest, seven-tiered tower, is dedicated to Mahadewa, the god of Mount Batukaru. is highly sacred temple o ers the local Hindus several ceremonies throughout the year and many parts of the temple are o -

limits to tourists. e vegetation around the temple is very colourful and lush. Look out for the massive tree ferns.

Head further north to Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, a Shaivite water temple on the shores of Lake Bratan.

Constructed in 1633, it is dedicated to

Dewi Danu, the Balinese water, lake and river goddess. is temple is one of Bali’s most famous and picturesque landmarks, and likely the most photographed temple in Bali. e mirror re ections of the tall tiered towers on the smooth surface of the lake surrounding it give the impression that it is oating on the water.

Pura Luhur Batukaru.

The Ubud way of life.

Pura Tuluk Biyu Batur.

Indonesia: Bali Island

e mist-covered mountains encircling the lake provide a scenic backdrop to the temple. Be here during sunrise or sunset for brilliant photographic scenery.

e Northeast

Directly to the east of Lake Bratan lies Mount Batur, another active volcano. To the east side of the volcano is the caldera Lake Batur known for the many hot springs along its western shores.

To the west side of the volcano is Pura Ulun Danu Batur temple, the second most important temple in Bali, a er Pura Besakih to the southeast. Also dedicated to Dewi Danu, the Balinese water, lake and river goddess, this temple was built in 1926 a er a violent volcanic eruption destroyed the earlier 17th-century Mengwi Kingdom temple. e tallest 11-tiered tower was spared by the volcano and still stands today.

A er a relaxing time in the Danau Batur Hot Springs, head southeast to Pura Besakih, a ectionately known as the “Mother Temple of Bali”. Located at

an elevation of over 900 metres along the southwestern slope of active Mount Agung volcano, it is the most revered and largest Hindu temple in Bali.

e artistic temple complex covers a vast area and o ers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain scenery. While some ancient inscriptions dating back to the 2nd century refer to this temple, there is enough evidence that it was a popular and one of the holiest Hindu temples by the 15th century.

e centre of the temple complex, known as Pura Penataran Agung, consists of 22 temples on six rising terraces and is the main place of worship. Assumed to have been saved by the gods, the temple miraculously survived a devastating eruption by Mount Agung in 1963 which killed an estimated 1,100 to 1,500 people. Mud ows caused by heavy rainfall a er the eruption killed an additional number of people. Even more people were killed by pyroclastic ows a few weeks later. At the time of writing, June 2018, Mount Agung continues its high levels of seismic activity,

so the raised alerts should be monitored before visiting this area.

Be here during a full moon when pilgrims throng to the temple. During April, the temple is elaborately decorated for the festival of Odalan when pilgrims hike through the heavily incensed air while humming ancient prayers for a prosperous life.

Done with Pura Besakih, head southwest to Ubud town for a well-deserved spa treatment and traditional dance show, followed by a romantic dinner. You will be so happy you are visiting Bali, the island of the gods!

Pura Besakih temple.

Danau Batur Hot Springs.

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, Bali

This Shaivite water temple on the shores of Lake Bratan was constructed in 1633 and is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the Balinese water, lake and river goddess.

LOMBOK ISLAND

Long described as the perfect getaway from Bali, Lombok remains pristine.

Directly east of Bali lies the island of Lombok. Spanning a total land area of 4,725 km², which makes it slightly smaller than Bali, Lombok’s main tourist areas are in selected spots on the western and southern coasts. For a while now people have advised travellers in search of tranquillity to hop over to Lombok to avoid the crowds of Bali.

Well, too many travellers have listened to that advice, so even Lombok has be-

come popular among tourists. Fortunately, the most touristy places are con ned to the areas around Senggigi Beach along the western coast, and Kuta Beach in the far south. e rest of Lombok remains very peaceful and void of any signicant number of tourists.

e small town of Kuta in the southcentral part of Lombok has been a travellers’ favourite base for a long time. Here you will nd many small guesthouses, hotels, home stays, and restaurants.

e town’s beach remains undeveloped, although this is set to change during late 2018 and beyond. For now, it is mostly crowded with a few shermen and school kids, as well as some friendly stray dogs.

e town is a perfect base for the southern beach areas located to the west and the east of Kuta.

West of Kuta are the beaches of AreGuling, Mawun, Tampah, Lancing, Munah, Telawas, Mawi, and Selong Belanak. Selong Belanak is the furthest west of these

Lombok Island is mostly void of mass tourism with many parts unspoiled and undiscovered.

Hop on a bicycle or scooter and explore!

Photo Left : Kuta Beach remains the playground of the local kids and the friendly stray dogs, though a new resort is being built on the beach.

Photo Below : Performance at a wedding, Kuta Beach.

Selong Belanak Beach.

beaches located about 25 km from Kuta. It is not possible to visit all these beaches in one day, so select about four or ve them.

Do make sure to visit Mawi Beach (Pantai Mawi). To reach Mawi Beach, rent a scooter from Kuta and take the road towards the west. At around the 20 km mark, turn le onto a small dirt road. is is a rough road and at times you may want to push the bike or turn around. Don’t turn around. Keep going. You will reach Mawi Beach about 4 km further, and you will think you’re in heaven. Have a cold beer under one of the small basic thatched roofs and then hike northwest along the beach and over the rocky outcrop to another long and spectacular beach.

Should you continue further along

this beach, though I’m not sure if that is possible, you will reach the long beach of Selong Belanak where you may see water bu aloes right on the beach. is is a great photo opportunity as the bu aloes walk lazily on the beach.

Northwest of Selong Belanak lies the port of Lembar, the gateway to a few small islands such as Gili Asahan and Gili Gede. Here you will nd a few places to stay and a very laid-back lifestyle. Lembar port is best reached within 2.5 hours by boat across the Lombok Strait from Bali’s Benoa (Denpasar) port, or further north at Bali’s Padang Bai port, which is a shorter crossing.

Just 5 km to the east of Kuta Beach is Pantai Tanjung Ann. Further along this

road, about 56 km from Kuta, is Tanjung Ringgit at the southeastern tip of Lombok. is area is quite remote and beautiful. At some places, the cli s rise several metres above the turquoise sea.

Lombok’s highest peak is Mount Rinjani, an active volcano that soars up 3,726 m, making it the second highest volcano in Indonesia. Rinjani last ejected ash into the atmosphere on 27 September 2016. Surrounded by the Gunung Rinjani National Park, an increasing number of travellers venture into this area. Climbers are allowed, when the volcano is inactive, to climb down the 200 metres deep caldera lake, or to make the more arduous climb to the highest peak. Hiking trips include sleeping a minimum of one night on the mountain. Sunrises and sunsets are stunning!

Selong Belanak Beach.

Lancing Beach.

Mawun Beach.

Semeti Beach.

Mawi Beach, Lombok Island

Mawi is hard to reach but it certainly is worth the effort. Here you can sit under the palm thatch beach cafés sipping a cold Bintang beer while watching the surfers riding the waves.

THE GILI ISLANDS

Famously portrayed in Julia Roberts’ movie “Eat, Pray, Love”, this is bliss!

Gili islands: No cars, No motorbikes, No problem!

Gili means “little island”, and there are several “gilis” around Lombok, particularly o the southwest and northwest coast of Lombok. However, when you say “Gili island”, most locals know you mean the gilis in the northwest of Lombok.

Imagine a small island fringed by white-sand beaches and coconut palms, surrounded by turquoise sea waters. And yes, no cars, and not even motorbikes. is is as close to paradise as you can get. But wait. Multiply this by three, as there are three such islands side by side.

Welcome to the triplets of Indonesia’s Gili Islands!

Meet Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air: three little paradise islands laying side by side in the Bali Sea. Located o the northwest corner of Lombok Island, these island triplets were once tranquil and totally undeveloped, until their paradise secrets became public a few years ago. Since then, their popularity, in particular among partying backpackers, has exploded and so have the continuing development of hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and a slew of tourism-related services. Speedboats from Bali zip back and forth to bring loads of excited tourists. During high season, the loads are bigger and rowdier. Sound like another disastrous result of increased mass tourism? Indeed, it is.

But fear not, as each Gili has its own distinct personality, and each tends to attract a di erent type of traveller.

While most of the local population on these islands are of the Sarak ethnic group who can also be found on Lombok, several ethnic groups were drawn here by the booming tourism industry. Traditionally the Sarak people live o shing, but they are increasingly turning to the lucrative tourist arrivals. You will also nd a small minority whose faith is Bodha, which is a belief in a mixture of Animism and Buddhism. Other ethnic groups include the

Balinese, the Sumbawa people, Tionghoa Peranakan (Chinese), the Flores people, and some Indonesian Arabs.

Located to the furthest west, Gili Trawangan, or a ectionately called “Gili T”, is the biggest of the triplets. As it is the rst stop for most ferries coming from Bali, Gili Trawangan is where most of the backpackers and their rowdy mates get o . It is the party island, unquestionably. It is also the most developed of the three, and the best island to nd a scuba dive school, pool parties, boutique spas with Balinese massages, beach cafes, cooking schools, gi shops, and barbecue dinners.

At night, Gili Trawangan comes alive with beach parties, dancing, drinking, bon res, and everything a lonely backpacker and the dedicated party-goers want, such as the monthly full-moon parties! ere is no lack of a variety of accommodation, including budget guesthouses, fancy villas and all-inclusive resorts. However, somewhere along the two-hour hike around the island, or while cycling, you will nd tranquil spots to escape from the bustling social life on the island. Pop in at the turtle hatchery and look out for the turtles while snorkelling.

If you are less inclined to partying with the backpackers, then get o at the middle island, Gili Meno. Here partying is limited to sipping cocktails at candle-lit beach bars and listening to romantic music. Even better, sit on one of the big beanbags strewn around on the sandy beach, separated by

small tables with ickering candles. As the smallest of the three, least populated and least developed, Gili Meno is also known as the romantic island, ideal for lovebirds and honeymooning couples. Gili Meno is famous for its snorkelling, outstanding white sand beaches, and turquoise waters as well, and can still be described as somewhat “untouched, unspoiled, and an unshared sanctuary”.

A reminder that while Gili Meno had few tourists not too long ago, nowadays the island has its fair share of tourists and tourist developments. Beaches on the north and east sides are safe for swimming which makes Gili Meno popular among families with small kids in tow. While the number of guesthouses and restaurants are far less than on Gili Trawangan, they are scattered around the island except for the southern part which is almost uninhabited. Beaches in the south are not great and some sections are covered with pebbles and rocks. On the east side of the island is a small turtle hatchery.

e best beaches on Gili Meno are on the north and east coasts but be sure to mark your spot at one of the many beach bars on the western side to see the sunset over Gili Trawangan, and Bali Island in the distance. On clear days you will see the beautifully cone-shaped Mount Agung, an active volcano and the highest peak on Bali Island. Before you leave, take a hike to the brackish lake towards the western side of the island, which is arguably the quietest

Meet Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air: three little paradise islands laying side by side in the Bali Sea. This, is paradise!

Sunset over Bali Island and active Agung volcano.