Globerovers Magazine July 2017

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Morocco - Atlas to the Atlantic

Morocco is best known as an exotic location as portrayed in Hollywood movies filmed here at its authentic souks (markets), deserts, oases, mountains, beaches, and elaborate kasbahs. Many of Morocco’s highlights can be found between the High Atlas Mountains in the east, and the beaches along the Atlantic Coast in the west. Come with us as we explore the High Atlas, souks of Marrakech, kasbahs, Islamic architecture, and the coastline.

ARTICLES

Lapland - Norway, Sweden, Finland

Roaming reindeer, traditional Sámi people, the home of Santa Claus, the midnight sun, and the painted night skies of the Aurora Borealis. is is a vast arctic area known as Sápmi, which stretches across Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. e feeling is almost surreal when you are on top of the world!

Georgia of the Caucasus

Take a walk on the wild side of the Caucasus region. Tucked in between Russia and Turkey and including Armenia, Azerbaijan, and the Black Sea as neighbours, Georgia is not quite European, and not quite Asian. e exotic mixture of in uences is evident in its culture, architecture, and cuisines.

Vanuatu - Mystic South Pacifc Islands

With a history of cannibalism and murdered missionaries, the South Paci c island of Vanuatu is a peaceful place nowadays, where one can enjoy unspoiled nature, diving, snorkelling, local tribes, active volcanoes, black sand beaches, dimly-lit kava bars, and friendly locals eager to make new Facebook buddies.

PHOTO ESSAYS

Portugal’s Remote Azores Islands

Picturesque Lake Bled, Slovenia

Thailand’s Monkey-Temple Buffet

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats CONTRIBUTIONS

Village Life: Gansbaai, South Africa

Long Road to Shwesandaw, Myanmar

Bay of Fundy, Canada

The Animal-Friendly Traveller

Super Traveller Spotlight

Traveller Spotlights

Book Reviews

TOP LISTS

10 Experiences in Morocco

10 Excitements in Lapland

13 Travel Tweeps to Follow

7 Future Travel Destinations

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Traveller Memorabilia to Envy

In the next issue of Globerovers Magazine, we talk with a married couple who has visited every country in the world. During their past 48 years of travel, they have compiled an incredible assembly of ethnographic items which would be the envy of the world’s most prestigious museums!

Old lighthouse in Cite Portugaise, El Jadida, Morocco

ON THE COVER: Berber man, Aït Benhaddou, Morocco

Globerovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A.

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Consultant - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Proofreader - Janet-Lynn Vorster

Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom

FOLLOW US: www.globerovers-magazine.com www.globerovers.com facebook.com/GloberoversMag pinterest.com/globerovers twitter.com/globerovers instagram.com/globerovers

CONTACT US: editor@globerovers.com

Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolken (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this ninth issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

e feature destination is Morocco, from the Atlas Mountains on the fringe of the Sahara Desert, to the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. We start our journey in the remote mountainous region of Gorges du Todgha and Gorges du Dadès, which are connected by an endless rugged mountain road which passes through the village of Agoudal. We then travel through Aït Benhaddou, cross over the High Atlas Mountains to Marrakech, and then descend to the cool coastal retreats of Essaouira, Sa , and El Jadida.

We visit Lapland (northern Norway, Sweden and Finland), South Africa, Georgia in the Caucasus, and we also retrieve Vanuatu photos from the archives.

We have Photo Essays of Portugal’s remote Azores Islands, Lake Bled in Slovenia, and ailand’s Monkey-Temple Bu et.

A special thank you to our sponsors and also to our contributors who we introduce on page 5. A very special word of thanks to Janet-Lynn Vorster, our chief contributor and proofreader, for her meticulous work.

Please connect with us on Pinterest, Twitter, and Facebook, and visit us at www.globerovers-magazine.com. For easy access, scan the QR Codes on page 7.

Feedback: editor@globerovers.com.

I travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn PhD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

THE FRONT COVER

The Berber people of ksar (fortified village) Aït Benhaddou have been living in their adobe homes along the caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech for ages. Inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, several families still live in the old kasbahs.

Thanks to our Contributors

CONTRIBUTORS

In this issue

A very special thank you to our awesome contributors to this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just won’t be the same! Thanks!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 100)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern African editor as well as chief proofreader for Globerovers Magazine.

Beth Sharpe, Toronto, Canada (page 178)

Beth is the communications director for World Animal Protection in Canada. An avid traveller, she is always looking for animal-friendly ways to view wildlife. Top trips include whale watching on Canada’s coasts, snorkelling in Tahiti, Belize and the Caribbean, supporting a dog vaccination clinic in the Philippines, and bird watching in Costa Rica.

Jonathan MAister, Toronto, Canada (page 160)

Jonathan is a Canadian-based writer who has travelled extensively, particularly in Canada. His areas of interest are ecology and history, and he makes a point of including these elements in his writing. He is also immersed in the sports medicine world as a therapist, and has contributed extensively in that domain as a lecturer and author.

Nathan James Thomas, Auckland, New Zealand (page 144)

Nathan is originally from New Zealand, but has spent much of the last few years of his life travelling in Europe and Asia, and at the time of writing is based in Shanghai. He is the founder of IntrepidTimes.com, where he shares stories from his travels and interviews other writers.

Linda Ballou, Los Angeles, CA, USA (page 186)

Adventure travel writer, Linda has rafted, kayaked and horseback ridden through pristine wilderness areas around the globe. Her collection of travel essays, “Lost Angel Walkabout”, is flled with thrills, chills, and giggles, and lets you experience the great outdoors without getting altitude sickness or tipping your canoe. www.LindaBallouAuthor.com

Juan Gallardo, Yangon, Myanmar (Page 148)

Juan is a born adventurer from the Spanish city of Seville and has lived in the UK, the US and Europe. Juan frst visited Myanmar in 2012 and has been living in Yangon since 2014. He is passionate about photography and Burmese cuisine, which he captures in his book: “Delicious Myanmar – Discover Myanmar through its people and food”.

Additional Contributors:

A very special thanks to our interviewees in the “Travellers in the Spotlight” section, Henrik Jeppesen (Denmark), Fabio Buonsanti (Italy), and Jasmin Kunz (Germany). Thanks also to our authors Janna Graber and Mat Dry for their book interviews.

The Globerovers‛ World

Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can. It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 118 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, and Macau) and is poised to explore Africa & North Korea in the coming months. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan

Albania

Andorra

Argentina

Armenia

Australia

Austria

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Bangladesh

Belarus

Belgium

Belize

Bolivia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Brazil

Brunei

Bulgaria

Cambodia

Canada

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

Croatia

Cuba

Czech Rep.

Denmark

Ecuador

Egypt

El Salvador

Estonia

Finland

France

Georgia

Germany

Greece

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

Hong Kong

Hungary

Iceland

India

Indonesia

Iran

Ireland

Israel

Italy

Japan

Jordan

Kazakhstan

Kyrgyzstan

Laos

Latvia

Lebanon

Lesotho

Liechtenstein

Lithuania

Luxembourg

Macau

Malaysia

Maldives

Malta

Mauritius

Mexico

Moldova

Monaco

Montenegro

Morocco

Myanmar /

Burma

Namibia

Nepal

Netherlands

New Zealand

Nicaragua

Norway

Oman

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Paraguay

Peru

Philippines

Poland

Portugal

Romania

Russia

San Marino

Serbia

Singapore

Slovakia

Slovenia

South Africa

South Korea

Spain

Sri Lanka

Swaziland

Sweden

Switzerland

Syria

Taiwan

Tajikistan

Thailand

Timor Leste (East Timor)

Turkey

Ukraine

United Arab Emirates

United Kingdom

United States

Uruguay

Uzbekistan

Vanuatu

Vatican

Vietnam

Yemen

Zambia

Zimbabwe

118 and counting..

DESTINATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

Morocco

High Atlas to Atlantic

Morocco Atlas to Atlantic

Ride along from the High Atlas to the Atlantic Ocean

Morocco is famous for its food, souks, ancient fortifed citadels and kasbahs, beaches, mountains, and its Berber people. We start this journey at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains and continue along the rugged terrains and valleys to the

ancient ksar of Aït Benhaddou. We follow the former caravan route through the Sahara Desert to the bustle of the old, colourful souks of Marrakech, and then head west to the cool winds of the Atlantic Ocean. From the wide beaches and whitewashed fortifed walls of Essaouira,

we go past the fortress built by Vasco da Gama’s brother-in-law in the town of Saf, and then explore the ancient old city of El Jadida. We conclude with honourable mentions of several other exciting destinations in Morocco such as Fes, Chefchaouen, Tétouan, and Moulay Idriss.

Morocco from the Atlas Mountains on the fringe of the Sahara Desert, to the coast of the Atlantic Ocean.

KASBAHS

A kasbah is a place of living for the more a uent and famous residents, mainly of North Africa, and is reminiscent of a citadel, fortress and a medina. It is typically walled and o en surrounded by maze-like streets. Normally with no, or only small windows, the inhabitants are fairly safe against any unwelcome guests.

While kasbahs can be found all over North Africa and are not uniquely Moroccan, it is as synonymous with Morocco as rugs, olives, leather tanneries, and souks (markets) stocked with incredible arts and cra s!

While the many kasbahs spread out around Morocco date back from the 18th and 19th centuries, new ones are constantly being built to serve as exotic accommodation to tourists. One of the most famous kasbahs is located at Aït Benhaddou, in Ouarzazate province, along a former caravan route between the Sahara and the city of Marrakech. e oldest parts of this kasbah date back to the 17th century!

As you are driving along rural roads, you just may come across a sign showing: “Come stay overnight at our relaxing kasbah”. Don’t hesitate. Drive in, have a sumptuous Moroccan dinner, and enjoy the incredible architecture, and hospitality which o en comes with a hammam (steam room) and massage!

communities across North Africa, including Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Mali, Niger, and Mauretania. While related to the ancient Egyptians, they belong to the Afro-Asiatic group and speak various Amazigh languages.

Today’s Berber people in Morocco live mainly around the mountains, while Morocco’s Arabs and Moors are generally fonder of the larger towns and cities.

Known for their superior cra smanship and their knowledge of the rugged lands, the Berber people also have a rich history of which they are very proud. A history that is believed to date back over 4,000 years during which they, the Amazigh “proud raiders” people, fought against the French, Arabs, and Romans to prevent colonisation. e Berber language, which is hard to nd these days, dates back about 2,500 years.

RUGGED MOUNTAINS

e most prominent natural landscape in Morocco is the Atlas Mountains, roughly divided into the “High Atlas Mountains”, “Middle Atlas Mountains” and “Little Atlas Mountains”. e “High Atlas Mountains” have more than 400 summits approaching 3,000 m in elevation. Some peaks are over 4,000 m high such as Toubkal (4,165 m), Ouanoukrim (4,089 m) and M’Goun (4,071 m). e “Middle Atlas Mountains” lie north of the High Atlas range and south of the Rif Mountains, while the “Little Atlas Mountains” stretch down into southern Morocco, close to the Atlantic Coast and bordering the Sahara Desert.

THE BERBER PEOPLE

e Berber people proudly refer to themselves as the amazigh (male), tamazight (female) or imazighen (plural) which mean ‘free’ or ‘noble people’. ey live in

Di erent groups of Berbers nowadays live in di erent regions across Morocco. e Drawa Berbers can be found in the Draa Valley while the Dades Berbers live in the northeast. e Mesgita, Seddrat and the Zeri tribes are living in the northwest.

e mountainous Rif region of northern Morocco is home to the Ghomara tribe.

e Berber people are known for their hospitality and outreach to travellers, a custom they developed through generations of being nomadic traders.

e Rif Mountain range runs along the Mediterranean Coast in the northernmost part of Morocco. Its highest peak, Tidirhine is 2,456 m.

Hiking or driving around Morocco’s mountains you are bound to spend time with the friendly Berber people who are used to enduring hot summers and snowy winters.

OLD FORTIFIED CITIES

Dictated by a violent history, most of Morocco’s cities have an “old forti ed city”. As most of the historical threats approached by sea, cities and towns along the Atlantic Coast are known for their forti cations erected by the Portuguese between 1415 and 1515. While Morocco has well over two dozen forti ed cities, some of the most interesting forti cations

along the coast can be seen at El Jadida, Essaouira, Sa , Rabat, and Tangier.

Essaouira, located along the Atlantic Coast, a few hours’ drive from Marrakech, has white walls and buildings with blueish trimmings. is is in stark contrast to the more brownish coloured themes of other Moroccan forti ed cities.

El Jadida, north along the coast from Essaouira, has a citadel built in 1514 by the Portuguese and is arguably the most authentic forti cation along this coast. Its massive city walls are, on average, 8 m high. e patrolling peripheral walkway is 2 m wide and a great way to walk around the city to view the populous down below. e entrance gate closes around 6pm so make sure to arrive early enough to explore.

ENDLESS BEACHES

While Morocco isn’t famous for the most exotic and unspoiled beaches in the world, it has no shortage of long and wide beaches with its fair share of fans who ock in during the cold European months.

Some of the most notable beaches are Saidia, Essaouira, Legzira Plage, Asilah, Sidi Kaouki and Tamara Plage, although there are many more. Accommodation and food are generally good and very a ordable!

ANCIENT SOUKS

ink Morocco, think souks (markets). Its ancient Berber markets sell anything and everything. In Marrakech, look out

for the Carpet Souk, Slipper Souk, Jewish Quarter Souk, Metalworking Souk and the Spice Souk. Move on to the city of Fes for another ancient souk most noted for its colourful and smelly leather tanneries and adjacent leather shop. Souks abound across Morocco.

HIGHLIGHTS of MOROCCO (Atlas to Atlantic)

Gorges du Todgha and Gorges du Dadès

With the High Atlas Mountains to the north and the Little Atlas Mountains to the south, the stunning scenery along the rugged wadi (valley) gorges and canyons of Todgha and Dadès is nothing less than spectacular!

Tamtattouchte

Just 20 km north of Gorges Todgha, along a rugged and desolate terrain, lies the friendly Berber village of Tamtattouchte with its brown, mud-brick houses dotted along the sides of the small main road. A great place to take a rest before taking on the road north over the High Atlas Mountains.

The High Atlas Mountains

A rough road leads northwards from Tamtattouchte via Ait Hani to the remote Agoudal village. Make a hairpin turn southwards down to the picturesque winding mountain road at Gorges du Dadès. The mountain scenery is breathtaking and so is the small and dangerous road which should not be attempted in the rainy or snowy seasons.

Fint Oasis

Located just 10 km south of Ouarzazate, is the Fint Oasis. Surrounded by a dry semi-desert on the fringe of the Little Atlas Mountains, is the small but lush oasis village with its verdant palm grove. This is a great place to meet the locals over a glass of mint tea and attend a local primary school to the amazement of the kids.

Aït Benhaddou

Located along the former caravan route between the Sahara Desert and Marrakech city, Aït Benhaddou is known for its ksar (castle) with half a dozen of kasbahs. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 and served as flming location for several movies including “The Mummy” and “Gladiator”.

Marrakech

The fourth largest city in the country, after Casablanca, Fez and Tangier, Marrakech has no shortage of action, in particular its souks and the Jemaa el-Fnaa square which showcases entertainers in medieval dress, snake charmers, acrobats, magicians, mystics, musicians, monkey trainers, herb sellers, story-tellers, pickpockets, and the local mafa who ensures that all viewers hand over their tips!

Atlantic Coast - Essaouira and El Jadida

Spend a few days in the sun along the Moroccan Atlantic Coast. Most notable are the whitewashed Essaouira, the quaint Saf, and the coastline up to the authentic fortifed city of El Jadida.

Gorges du Todgha

This is one of the roads you will never ever forget!

Written as Todgha Gorge or Todra Gorge, and locally known as Les gorges du Todgha or Vallée du Todgha, this incredible canyon is located in the southeastern part of the High Atlas Mountains, about 5 km north of the oasis town of Tinghir. Within a few minutes’ drive north of Tinghir, past palm groves and Berber villages, the landscape starts changing from a lush oasis to a parched canyon along the valley of Wadi Todgha. You will know you have arrived when you see the massive walls of pink and grey rock closing in along the road as if you are being sucked in by mother

earth!  e gorge takes its most spectacular form about 15 km north of Tinghir when it is time to stop, look up, and get the cold chills!

Gorges du Todgha has spectacular carved out cli -sided canyons which in some places are as little as 10 m wide with sheer,

routes on 40 di erent sectors available to choose from. Some of the popular routes are the Plage Mansour, Pilier de Couchant, Can Güllich, Les Jardins and the Satanicos Sector. If rock climbing isn’t your forté, then enjoy the hiking or merely walk a few kilometres along the road and the small river to appreciate the natural surroundings.

Do the Hike!

As you arrive at, or let’s say within, Gorges du Todgha, you will immediately feel the urge to leave your vehicle and walk along the road. As you walk, you will undoubtedly feel the calling to leave the road and hike up the rocky hills. Go ahead and just do it, but be careful.

For longer tours, many local guides and tour operators offer hikes lasting from a few hours to a few days, which then include hikes to Gorges du Dadès and up into the High Atlas Mountains. You can even add camel trekking in the desert.

smooth rock walls over 160 m high on each side.

While turbulent waters of the Todgha River carved out this canyon over centuries, what is le today is a tiny ice-cold meandering stream which ows alongside the small paved road. During rainstorms, the river engulfs this road, which makes the canyon impassable, so in the rainy season call ahead to make sure the roads are safe.

e canyon is popular among rock climbers with more than 150 di erent climbing

e variation of temperatures in the gorge can be quite extreme. While blazing hot during midday, the late afternoons and nights can get quite chilly with a fair amount of cold weather and snow in winter.   e best time of the day to visit is early in the morning when the sunshine brie y illuminates parts of the gorge in a so golden hue. Try to stay for the day because the gigantic rock walls magically change colour as the day progresses.  e best time of the year is any time except winter, which means plan your trip from around April to the end of October.

A couple of entrepreneurial locals have put up a few make-shi shops next to the

As you enter the gorge, it is as if mother earth swallows you down a long, deep, brown throat. Stop and walk. Stop every few steps and look up. It’s a dizzying sight and it’s mesmerizing!

road and river and are selling colourful cloths, which seen positively from a photographer’s point of view, create a lovely contrast to the pink, brown, and grey rock formations. ey also bring a much-needed income to the locals, who in this part of the world don’t have many options to make ends meet.

The area is not well-served by public transport, so the best option is to come with a tour group, or better still to rent a car and drive yourself. Roads are generally good, except for some mountain roads north of Gorges du Todgha.

While camping is popular along the entire canyon, a few auberges, riads and kasbahs are welcoming tourists to stay overnight in the area.

Public transportation in this part of Morocco is limited to collective “grand” taxis which normally take six cramped passengers - two in the front and four in the back. It only leaves when full. A much better choice is to rent a vehicle in Marrakech or Ouarzazate.

Unless the river has fooded and cleaning is not completed, the road is generally good and does not require a 4x4.

Along the road north of Gorges du Todgha towards Tamtattouchte is a small whitewashed marabout (pilgrimage chapel dedicated to a local saint).

Tamtattouchte

A sleepy Berber village below the High Atlas Mountains

About 20 km north of Gorges du Todgha, the winding wellmaintained asphalt road leads to the small Berber village of Tamtattouchte. En route, look out for the small whitewashed marabout (pilgrimage chapel dedicated to a local saint) on the right side of the road.

Tamtattouchte is a drab village located at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains. Further north from here the road winds through spectacular mountain scenery.  e older buildings in the village are adobe-made, while the newer places are mostly constructed from cement.

Once you start meeting the locals at Tamtattouchte, you will feel the warmth of the Berber people. Foreign tourists are scarce and the locals are incredibly friendly and inquisitive.

A good introduction to the local people

and their customs starts with a mint tea on the veranda of Auberge Amazigh, which literally means “the home of the Berber people”. Pick one of the cosy rooms in this traditional home and head out to the veranda where your friendly host, Hamid, will serve you the customary mint tea in a glass, complete with condiments such

swatches of fertile plots where the locals, men and women, work tirelessly with their donkeys to plough the lands and control the weeds.

as black and green olives, and eshy dried dates. Hamid loves to talk about his people, and while his English language skills are limited, he gets his message across. Knowing a little French will certainly help to better communicate with him.

A er tea, hike higher up the village to survey the surroundings from the top, then head down below towards the old part of town to inspect some of the old derelict buildings. Near the small river are large

As you walk through the village, you will quickly attract the attention of a few kids who are willing to show you around and perhaps score a short game of football with you. ey may even introduce you to their makeshi see-saw, which is merely a wooden log balanced in a fork of a tree. Go ahead and see-saw with the kids. ey so love it!

At night, Hamid will serve up steaming lamb or vegetarian tajine stew with a very generous serving of couscous. Sitting in front of the replace, Hamid will then grab his traditional “loutar” (three-string Berber guitar) and start playing while singing traditional love songs. He may likely be joined by his friend with his “aloun” percussion instrument to play along. What a show!

Auberge Amazigh - Tamtattouchte

Auberge Amazigh (“the home of the Berber people”) is a cosy, homey guesthouse in the higher section of Tamtattouchte village.

Hamid, your host, will offer you a very authentically-decorated room, mint tea with olives and dates, and traditional Berber food which always includes tajine stews and couscous.

Enjoy your meals and tea in the cosy dining room with its freplace, or on the terrace overlooking the village. Stay for a few days and get to know the locals.

Book via booking.com, agoda.com or contact Hamid: aubergeamazigh@gmail.com.

Booking and enquiries to Hamid: aubergeamazigh@gmail.com

Take a look at some of the local carpet weavers of Tamtattouchte, and you might just as well buy one to take home.

A loutar and an aloun

The loutar is a plucked lute unique to Morocco’s Berber people.

Also known as a gimbri which traces its origins to the Gnawa people from the ancient Ghana Empire of Ouagadougou of West Africa, the body is carved from a log and covered on the playing side with sheep or camel skin with three or four strings. A loutar player is normally accompanied by a traditional percussion instrument called an aloun.

The loutar player usually doubles as the singer and can be accompanied by female dancers with beautiful traditional costumes.

The Tamtattouchte Salt Mines

A short drive north of Tamtattouchte village, followed by a long hike, leads you past some interesting and barren mountain landscapes to the salt mines.

The walk along a small path goes past a long aqueduct which channels water from the high mountains all the way down to the villages in the nearby valley. Walk past a waterfall and continue until you see some light salt deposits on the ground and on the rocks.

In this area you will fnd several open salt mines and salt caves, some which are quite deep and dangerous. Be careful not to slip and fall into the abyss.

Notice the scrape marks all over these caves where locals sporadically come to mine the salt. The large and heavy bags are then transported on donkeyback to the villages. Back-breaking work for both man and beast!

High Atlas

Get mesmerized in Africa’s highest mountains!

North Africa’s highest mountain range, the High Atlas, is referred to by the Berber people as ‘Idraren Draren’ (Mountains of Mountains) and it is a delight to the eyes and a hiker’s paradise from spring through to autumn.

e “High Atlas” mountains stretch diagonally across Morocco for almost 1,000 km from near the Atlantic Coast in the west, up to the northeast towards Algeria. To its immediate north lies the “Middle Atlas” mountains and to its south is the “Anti-Atlas”, also known as the “Little Atlas”, which runs diagonally along the fringes of the Sahara Desert, along the Algerian border.

e many saw-toothed peaks of the High Atlas, some over 4,000 m high, act as an e cient weather barrier between the mild Mediterranean climate to the north and the encroaching sweltering winds from the Sahara Desert in the south. Its many high peaks can be snow covered between September and May which allow for skiing. In spring the melting snow provides ample water which ows into the fertile valleys. Unless you are planning winter sports, the best time to visit is from June to the end of October.

e road northwards from Tamtattouchte to Agoudal via the small village of Ait Hani is very scenic. From Agoudal the road goes north to Imilchil and its twin

lakes, or alternatively choose the tiny dirt road southwest towards Dadès Gorges. is road is not for the faint-hearted, especially if you don’t have a 4x4 or o -road vehicle. Go ahead and take this road, the next 100 km to Dadès Gorges is an experience you will never forget!

e mountain scenery is stunning and the road is somewhat nerve-racking.

All adds to an adrenalin rush which you can reset once you have successfully passed through the hairpin winding road of “Dadès Gorges Road” immediately north of Dadès Gorges village. A road referred to as one of the most dangerous in the world!

Faces of Remoteness

Once you arrive in the village of Agoudal you will redefne your perception of remoteness. This village is windswept, lonely and remote. Just look at the faces of the kids and you will understand!

These kids are hungry for anything a tourist can offer them. It is as if they have never ever seen a foreign tourist. They will hang on to your doors and run with your car as you drive out of the village, to the point where you feel you had better pick them up and drive them back to their village. They are small, lonely, deprived, and they have facial expressions depicting remoteness.

High Atlas Mountains

The southern fanks of the Eastern High Atlas Mountains look more like rolling hills than majestic mountains. However, they are high, and in winter they can be covered in snow. This part of the Atlas became famous as a paleontological site after the discovery of the bones of the rare Atlasaurus dinosaurs which roamed this part of the planet 180 million years ago. The scenery is stunning. A small, somewhat dangerous road (110 km long) traverses this scenery from Agoudal via M’semrir to the beautiful Gorges du Dadés.

Gorges du Dadès

Gorges du Dadès o ers stunning scenery and is aptly referred to as “the road of a thousand kasbahs”. e spectacular drive winds through peaceful desert landscapes, quaint villages and palm groves along this stretch of the Dades Valley, located between the High Atlas Mountains to the north and the Small Atlas Mountains to the south. Tens of kasbahs line the road alongside the palm trees. Whether you prefer hiking, ra ing, rock climbing or just sitting back staring over the canyon, you will nd it all right here! Further south towards the Sahara Desert is the Jebel Sarhro lunar-scape in the Small Atlas, famous for its surreal landscapes reminiscent of the “Red Rock Country” in the American State of Utah.

e Dades Valley has an untamed landscape, with the possibility of snow to the

north and the arid semi-desert to the south. e savage grandeur of the gorge is somewhat reminiscent of America’s Grand Canyon.  e small Dades River meanders through the valley quenching a long stretch of wheat paddies, fruit trees, walnut trees, silver birch and almond trees, all set against an extraordinary sce-

if you have strong nerves! At the top of the scary winding road is the infamous Cafe Restaurant Hotel Timzzillite, which is not recommended other than for the views.

nic backdrop of reddish rock formations. However, the greatest spectacle of Gorges du Dadès is the entry point when driving from Agoudal in the north, or the point of exit when driving from Boumalne Dades in the south.  is section of the road is o en listed among the scariest roads in the world. However, you may agree that it is far more scenic than scary,

e best service, accommodation and prices are to be enjoyed down in the valley. Contact the friendly and charming Youssef Ijoud at Auberge La Fibule Du Dades (la buledudades@gmail. com) to book one of his cosy rooms. His auberge is truly an experience and the authentic Berber meals and service are incredible!

As with the rest of this region, avoid midsummer and winter.  e best time to visit the valley is between March and May, while the mountains are cooler, so the best time to visit the mountains is from May to July. From September to the end of October is also a good time.

Visitors come from afar to drive on one of the world’s most incredible roads. Described by some as “one of the more dangerous roads in the world”, its beautiful setting far outweighs its danger.

Known for its “dangerous road”, the scenery is overwhelming

The Road of a Thousand Kasbahs

The Gorges Dadés mountain pass winds down to the gorge, carved by the Dades River. During good weather it’s a breeze to drive slowly up or down this pass, but it is nerve-racking during rain or in winter. The small barriers along the edge of the road offer little more than a token of protection so be careful.

Fint Oasis

Served as the setting for several Hollywood flms

About 130 km southwest of Gorges du Dadès lies the town of Ouarzazate, which can aptly be described as the “Door of the Desert”. Less than 20 km southwest of Ouarzazate is the lush palm garden village of “Oasis de Fint”. e rough unpaved road leading from Ouarzazate to Fint Oasis is barren and desolate, typical terrain of the Small Atlas Mountains. From a distance, the verdant date palm groves around the oasis are clearly visible.

If you have always wanted to visit an authentic oasis community, this is the place to be. Life here is very laid back. Pack donkeys still roam the streets and women wash the family’s clothes in the small stream. People are reserved which is likely due to language barriers. If you speak a little

French, the conversations over a mint tea will be easier.

It is easy to do a day trip from Ouarzazate to Fint. However, stay overnight in one of the few guesthouses at Fint if you can and experience sunset and sunrise over the oasis. At night you may be entertained by the unique combination of Berber, Arab and African rhythms. Ask around as some local families o er homestay at a very modest fee, which includes dinner and breakfast. Morocco’s rural people have a reputation for hospitality which is legendary. You won’t be disappointed with the people at Fint Oasis.

A four-wheeler is not essential between Ouarzazate and Fint, unless the road is washed out by the rains.

Educating the kids

As you walk through the village in the early morning, you may hear the kids reciting in one of the basic make-shift school rooms.

Stop and pop in, and if you remembered to bring along some stationery, they will eagerly accept handouts. Pens, paper, anything. Best to hand it over to their teacher.

This date-palm oasis is home to a few unique villages that still maintain a different mix of cultural life unique in the region. Part African, part Berber.

Aït Benhaddou

17th-century fortifed village complete with kasbahs

North of Ouarzazate in the southern foothills of the High Atlas, lies one of Morocco’s nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Welcome to the 17th-century Ksar of AitBenhaddou which has served as the locale for many lms including Indiana Jones, Babel, Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth (for which much of Aït Benhaddou was rebuilt), Jewel of the Nile, and Gladiator.

A “ksar” is a small collection of adobe buildings normally surrounded by high walls as is typical of a traditional Saharan community. e surrounding defensive walls are reinforced by corner towers which rise high above the walls. Ait-Benhaddou is a striking example of such architecture and built entirely of local organic material, which is covered by a rich red mud plaster from the nearby Ounila River. Made up of six kasbahs and almost 50 smaller ksour

(plural for ksar), local belief is that the ksar was founded in 757 AD. by Ben-Haddou whose tomb is said to lie somewhere below the old city. However, the oldest structures of Ait-Benhaddou only date back to the early 17th century.

First constructed as an Almoravid caravanserai, it provided shelter to travellers along the trading routes which linked ancient Sudan to the souks of Morocco’s Marrakech. e traded goods must have included items such as gold, salt, and West African slaves that passed along this route since ancient times but reached a peak between the 8th century AD and the late 16th century AD. As these traders brought in such valuable items, the defensive walls were necessary to protect them and the kasbah residents from the bandits and raiding nomads.

As the trans-Saharan trade declined by the late 17th century, Ait-Benhaddou remained important as it transformed itself to be the centre of local power.

While many of the structures of Ait-Benhaddou are in a derelict state, some of the buildings remain occupied by resident families, who increasingly set up shop selling souvenirs to the tourists. Other than the living quarters, the ksar is home to a mosque, a public square, grain threshing areas outside

the ramparts, a forti cation at the top of the village (the agadir), a caravanserai, and two cemeteries (Muslim and Jewish).

e views of the surrounding arid stony desert are mesmerising as seen from the large forti ed granary, or agadir, on the hill above the ksar. Watch as the colours change throughout the day.

In the relatively more modern part of town, around the ksar of Ait-Benhaddou, live the rest of the local residents. Many are involved in the tourist trade o ering souvenirs, restaurants, guesthouses, and anything that can earn money from the tourists. Most of the souvenirs on o er are actually more than just tourist junk. Look out for some good quality argan oil, beautiful ceramics, leather products, paintings of AitBenhaddou and its inhabitants, hammered metalworks, rugs and carpets, and of course, spices and dried fruits such as dates, gs, olives, walnuts, and almonds. All prices are negotiable, and friendly bargaining is expected and fun if you do it with the right mindset.

Along the small unpaved road north of AitBenhaddou are the interesting villages of Assfalou and Tamedakhte, boasting ancient and more modern kasbahs complete with camel rides!

The Ksar of Ait-Benhaddou

The 17th-century fortifed village of Ait-Benhaddou has served as the locale for many Hollywood flms. While many of the structures are in a derelict state, some of the buildings remain occupied by resident families. A fortifed granary, or agadir, is perched on a hill above the ksar.

Marrakech

A city most famous for its souks and central square

For most people the name Marrakech brings up memories of popular movies. ink “ e Mummy”, “Raiders of the Lost Ark”, “Prince of Persia”, and many more. ese movies have unquestionably made Marrakech famous for its bustling copper and leather souks, its villains, snake charmers, street performances, mint-tea-sipping tourists, and many more.

It is hard to describe Marrakech. In fact, once you arrive in Marrakech you will be so overwhelmed that you will not know in which direction to go! But let’s go and walk in any direction, as you will swi ly get lost and that is perfectly ne. Fear not, as you will nd yourself, and hopefully your hotel, by the end of the day.

e medina, the old walled part with its countless narrow and maze-like streets, is rather unnavigable. Try out your smartphone’s Google map as you get lost in the medina. While not perfectly accurate, it will give you a sense of where you are. Better yet, put away your digital map and just let the medina suck you in. ere is no better feeling than to get lost in one of

Morocco’s medinas such as in Marrakech or Fes. You will be amazed with most everything you will discover.

e attractions in Marrakech are numerous. For a culture shock, walk around the famous Djemaa El Fna central square. Here you will come face-to-face with mu-

Before long you will want to escape the madness of the square, so head out to one of the many roo op cafes and restaurants from where you can safely survey the crazy scene from above.

sicians, storytellers, fortune-tellers and snake charmers. In fact, in the late a ernoon and early evening the entire spectrum of Moroccan life will enfold right in front of your eyes.

Watch out for the local ma a who ensures that all onlookers pay their dues of appreciation before leaving a performance, in particular those of the snake charmers, monkey handlers, and the African drum beaters. Don’t resist making a small payment as these people are ferocious.

Once you have conquered and tamed your fears about a night out on Djemaa El Fna square, head into Marrakech’s labyrinth medina.  e ancient narrow alleyways of the medina are a spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, scents, and aromas which are enough to place all your senses into overdrive!

Check out the Babouche (shoe) Souk, the famous Chouari (carpenter’s) Souk, the El-Attarine (perfume and spice) Souk and make sure not to miss the Cherratine (leather) Souk.

To the northeast of the square follow your nose and you will nd the Marrakech tanneries where animal skins are dyed the old-fashioned way. Around the tanneries are some very persistent leather salesmen

Marrakech is one of those places you will either love or hate. Either way, you should explore everything this city has to offer and you could stay here for a few weeks!

Bahia Palace.

The souk.