GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 31 - MARCH - APRIL 2020

Interview

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Co-President, Chopard

TECHNIQUE All of a piece : the craze for case/ wristband integration

HYT H5

SPOTLIGHT HydroConquest: a new look in green

FLUID. REVEALING. ESSENTIAL. GMT ME No 32 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2020

32

9 771660 110613

ALPINE EAGLE With its pure and sophisticated lines, Alpine Eagle offers a contemporary reinterpretation of one of our iconic creations. Its 41 mm case houses an automatic, chronometer-certified movement, the Chopard 01.01-C. Forged in Lucent Steel A223, an exclusive ultra-resistant metal resulting from four years of research and development, this exceptional timepiece, proudly developed and handcrafted by our artisans, showcases the full range of watchmaking skills cultivated within our Manufacture.

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THROUGH THE DAY

I N TO T H E N I G H T

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C I G A R S O F C H A R AC T E R

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EDITORIAL SPRING 2020

I

n announcing its withdrawal from Baselworld 2020 in February, Bvlgari was the first watchmaking company to envisage alternative approaches to traditional exhibitions, which were clearly at risk. BVlgari Hopes that its initiative will encourage the presence of numerous watch brands in Geneva’s many luxury hotels during this period.

The absence of an over areling structure such as Watches & Wonders or Baselworld in no way prevents innovative and adarious brands from strengthening Geneva in its role as the world watchmaking capital, by grouping their European roadshows during the days left vacant by Watches & Wonders in a city located st the heart of Europe and renowned for it’s very high level of security.

This event will be held in strict compliance with the Federal Council ‘s decisions of February 28, 2020 regarding public gatherings, as well as any future recommendations from the WHO and the Federal council relating to the evolution of the Covid-19 epidemic currently affecting many countries.

The State of Geneva, which is following the health situation as closely as possible, has given it’s full support to this initiative.

Until next issue,

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

GMT MIDDLE EAST NO32 | SPRING 2020

We assemble every single watch twice.

Because perfection takes time.

For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we

parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing

craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.

techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures

Thus, after the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has been assembled for the first

long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-

time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement

ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae

CONTENTS SPRING 2020

72 28 EDITORIAL 30 CONTENTS 34 CONTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS

62

36 HOT NEWS 72 INTERVIEW | Karl-Friedrich Scheufele | Co-President, Chopard 84 TECHNIQUE All of a piece : the craze for case/wristband integration

96 TECHNIQUE Only Watch Unpacking what’s on offer

102 NEW RELEASES

LIFESTYLE

62 COVER STORY

60 EDITOR’S PICK

HYT H5. Fluid. Revealing. Essential.

Time lighter than air

66 SPOTLIGHT

90 WATCH MY NAME

HydroConquest: A new look in green

82 BOVET New Collections for 2020

What’s in a name when it comes to Autavia?

102 JET SET SWISS LUXURY APARTMENT GENEVA The best of all worlds

30

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

90

CONTENTS SPRING 2020

72 Focus

Close-up view of 7 new releases

76 A. LANGE & SÖHNE An odyssey

77 AUDEMARS PIGUET Classical music

78 HERMÈS Into the deep

79 JACOB & CO. In the dragon’s clutches

80 ARMIN STROM Chiming 10

81 BREGUET Breguet’s bet on thinness

82 ZENITH El Primero’s rebirth

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79 32

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

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MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’

MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL

CONTRIBUTORS

Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

Brice Lechevalier Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

34

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Cloé Mugny

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Camille Guille

Edouard Haegi

Serge Panczuk

With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.

D1MILANO.COM

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

The AIKON Automatic Skeleton THE GRAPHIC POWER OF THE AIKON CHRONOGRAPH SKELETON THE AIKON CHRONOGRAPH SKELETON is a contemporary and

and the relationship between its objective and perceived value

sculptural creation that combines the powerful, angular and

and its price is particularly favourable.

masculine lines of the AIKON Automatic with one of Maurice

MASCULINE & 3D

Lacroix’s most iconic movements. The skeletonisation of this

thickness. A reduced bezel, allowing you to admire the

bezel and push-pieces. By playing on sharp lines, alternating

movement in its entirety, featuring the six characteristic AIKON

between circles and hexagons, Maurice Lacroix has created a

arms placed directly on the crystal, more prominent than ever,

steel piece with a strong watchmaking impact.

engraved 10 by 10. Prominent push-pieces with a hexagonal

The AIKON Chronograph Skeleton expresses the brand’s

base that protrude to trigger the chronograph. A long, large,

creative strength in terms of design and complications,

serrated crown with a black PVD finish. The masculine

combining the watchmaking heritage of Masterpiece

characteristics of this ultra-sporty and technical chronograph

and the power of AIKON. Several months after leading

are proudly displayed. And to powerfully complete the image

the way with the AIKON Mercury, Maurice Lacroix has

of a skeleton chronograph, Maurice Lacroix has modified the

expanded its iconic line with a sophisticated, graphic and

finishes to play with the perception of volume.

uncompromising piece.

The technical excellence of the AIKON Chronograph

The higher the components are on the AIKON Chronograph Skeleton, the clearer they become. The arms and bezel are

Skeleton is an aesthetic desire, a graphic assertion of AIKON’s

produced in satin-finished steel. The front of the dial, featuring

powerful character, developed to achieve its full potential.

four hour-markers and counters, is also satin-finished and

And yet, behind this embodiment of bold, expressive and

darker. The grooves of these counters are microbead blasted and

unambiguous watchmaking, Maurice Lacroix has stayed true

even darker. The lower levels are occupied by the movement,

to its core principles.

treated with DLC black gold and highlighted by the lowest layer,

This complication Manufacture piece is perfectly executed,

36

A strong 44 mm diameter with an elegantly designed

automatic chronograph enhances the structure of its hands,

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

which becomes light grey again to create a contrast.

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

The new Laureato Absolute Light by Girard-Perregaux has a light design with sapphire and titanium DUBAI, 16 FEBRUARY, 2020- The Laureato Absolute collection – first revealed at the 2019 Salon International de la Haute

The Laureato Absolute Light reveals the art in precision

Horlogerie - was launched in the spirit of re-inventing our icons.

engineering – all in the shape of an octagon in a 44mm case of

The Laureato Absolute Light – exclusively available in just 88

sapphire and titanium. Its crystalline sapphire case allows for a

pieces – is the latest audacious expression of this collection.

stunning transparent view of the movement from all sides with

Blending aesthetics and functionality, this new edition transforms technical components into distinctive design

38

angles of the octagon, highlighting its iconic shape.

a perfect light reflection on its mat and polished surfaces.

The Girard-Perregaux collection is available at Ahmed

elements. For the first time, the mainplate is octagonal and

Seddiqi & Sons boutiques at Mall of the Emirates, Burj Al

screwed together with the bezel, case and case-back on the eight

Arab, Wafi Mall.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

SWISS LUXURY APARTMENT GENEVA

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Breguet Unveils the Blue Version of its Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique IN 2020, Breguet adorns the dial of its Extra-Thin Self-

within the dial itself to the Breguet numerals, the hours

Winding Tourbillon with a touch of deep blue, by using the

chapter and seconds chapter, and the logo. The range of blues

traditional grand feu enamel technique. There are a limited

also emphasises the powdered silver indicators. Another

number of artisans still capable of mastering this age-old

subtle detail can be found above the tourbillon carriage: the

process, which was dear to Abraham-Louis Breguet, as he

famous secret signature. Introduced in 1795 by Abraham-

appreciated the spotless aspect it conferred on watches. Not

Louis Breguet, it is a guarantee of authenticity that helped in

surprising, given that he had revolutionised watchmaking

the fight against counterfeits, which were already a problem

aesthetics by ridding watches of heavy and superfluous

at the time. Breguet places the signature on the majority of

decoration. Today, Breguet keeps this art alive with a

its models these days for decorative purposes, as homage to

workshop entirely dedicated to enamelling.

its founder.

Beyond providing decoration to the dial, enamel work is a

its minimalist design - the 581 caliber, which distinguishes

and technical mastery. After going through stages of grinding

itself through its finesse and technical performance.

and cleaning, the enamel is applied with a brush to the gold

Breguet’s thinnest tourbillon movement showcased within

dial while still wet, in a thin and consistent layer. It is then

this timepiece is no thicker than 3 millimeters, with the total

heated in a furnace at a temperature higher than 800°C. The

case thickness measuring 7.45 millimeters. Placed between 4

final result is obtained by adding several layers of enamel

and 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is housed in a titanium carriage

until the desired color is reached. For the new timepiece,

that features a made-to-measure escapement and a silicon

the hue is a blend of a number of blue nuances. The final

Breguet balance spring that oscillates at a frequency of four

step consists of gentle polishing before the dial is placed in

hertz, which is particularly high for a tourbillon balance

the furnace one last time and this step provides it with its

spring. The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367

natural sheen. The dial’s gold elements are then beveled in a

boasts an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its high-energy

workshop dedicated to this revered craft. Then the different

barrel, a concept patented by Breguet.

indicators are applied on the dial. In keeping with the very distinctive method, artisans provide a striking depth effect

40

Under the dial, lies the beating heart of the watch, with

particularly specialised craft, one requiring rigor, patience,

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Available exclusively at Breguet boutiques, this new release in platinum features a blue alligator leather strap.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Golden Balance for ZEITWERK DATE THIS YEAR’S VOTE FOR GOLDENE UNRUH (GOLDEN BALANCE) has resulted in a first prize for A. Lange & Söhne: The ZEITWERK DATE wins in the highest category “watches priced over 25,000 euros”.

The award for the mechanical digital watch with its peripheral date display was received by A. Lange & Söhne’s Brand Manager for Germany, Stephanie Schulze.

Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid was pleased with the good performance in one of the largest read-ers’ polls in the watch world: “The award is a welcome demonstration of the continued high rep-utation our timepieces enjoy in our home market Germany, while we move forward on the inter-national road to success.”

42

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Paris 8ème

Grand Powers 52 rue François 1er - Paris 8ème Book your stay directly on hotelgrandpowersparis.com +33 (0)1 47 23 91 05

Grand Powers is a new 5 star boutique hotel, in the heart of the Paris Golden triangle. The hotel embodies the Parisian effortless chic and offers a vibrant modern touch combined with all luxury services, in a prime location.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

TAG HEUER opens boutique at Mall of the Emirates TAG Heuer reaffirms commitment to the Middle East region with the opening of its second stand-alone boutique in Dubai DUBAI, UAE, 20TH FEBRUARY 2020: TAG Heuer, the Swiss

that pays homage to TAG Heuer’s impressive 160-year heritage

luxury avant-garde watchmaker continues to expand its

of precision engineering, the boutique offers eight dedicated

presence across the Middle East with the opening of its

counters and four niche sections that allow clients to easily

Dubai’s second stand-alone boutique, at Mall of the Emirates.

browse the timepieces, per collection.

With a legacy rooted in technical innovation, timekeeping,

offer personalized service, watchmaking knowledge and

particular, the boutique offers a glimpse into the DNA of TAG

in-depth counsel in multiple languages to customers from

Heuer and takes clients on an immersive brand journey, while

Dubai and beyond. Over 150 timepieces are available for

they discover the different watch collections.

purchase, including classic favourites such as Carrera and,

The new ninety square meters space located on the first

44

A team of passionate sales advisors and brand specialists

high performance, a passion for action and motor racing in

recent launches like Autavia Calibre 5, or limited-edition

floor, has been designed keeping the TAG Heuer ethos and

models celebrating Monaco’s 50th anniversary. Reflecting

customer as focal points for the layout, structure and style.

the avant-garde spirit of the brand, the new boutique is a

The result is a sleek contemporary interior with tones of greys,

testament to TAG Heuer’s commitment to the region and an

emblematic of motor racing tracks, underscored by touches of

important milestone in TAG Heuer’s growing presence across

the iconic TAG Heuer red. Accented by visuals and memorabilia

the Middle East.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo presents two exclusive Zenith El Primero Limited Edition Chronographs designed by Phillips A Total of 69 Timepieces will be offered to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the Revolutionary Zenith El Primero Calibre GENEVA – 8 NOVEMBER 2019 – Earlier this Fall, Phillips in

designer’s seat, and work with a watchmaker that has on more

Association with Bacs & Russo announced the presentation

than one occasion revolutionized the way watches are made.

of a unique Zenith El Primero Ref. 386 in platinum. The first

chronograph has just been developed and is about to be

pièce unique will be sold this weekend by Phillips during

unveiled to the world. What would the design be? The result

The Geneva Watch Auction X on November 9, with proceeds

is an extraordinary yellow gold El Primero Ref. A386 with a

from the sale donated to the ZOE4LIFE foundation. Known

stunning black dial with gold sub-registers and gold printing -

as the “One-Off”, the watch will be the only Ref. A386 that

a contrast that is beloved in the watch collecting community,

Zenith will ever make in PT 950 platinum, and is the first of

and unlike anything previously made by Zenith.

its kind to feature a breathtaking Lapis Lazuli dial.

46

The world’s first automatic column-wheel high-frequency

of three models created in collaboration with Zenith, this

For the stainless steel version, Phillips’ team was inspired by

Following the presentation of the “One-Off”, Zenith and

color schemes characteristic of fashionable textiles and popular

Phillips decided to pursue their collaboration by sitting down

interior design during the 60s. The iconic overlapping registers

again to create two more El Primero Ref. A386 chronographs,

of the first ever Zenith El Primero Ref. A386 remain, but brown

limited to 69 pieces in total, in honor of the birth year of the El

terracotta tones replace the grey, dark grey and blue of the

Primero caliber. It was an honor for Phillips to be put into the

original dial.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium.

Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler.

Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter.

Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Chopard boutique in Courchevel A new embassy for the Maison nestled in the heart of the French Alps The Maison Chopard is announcing the opening of a new boutique in Courchevel 1850, entirely fitted out in a typically Alpine style, combining contemporary décor and the use of superior traditional materials.

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE WINTER SPORTS RESORT, at

personal and intimate, and a sense of comfort that sums up

the entrance to the Espace Diamant arcade, Chopard’s

the Chopard spirit of offering customers an unforgettable

Courchevel boutique has new premises. With a total surface

experience. And all this because, far more than just a watch

area of 70m2, it is joining Maison Chopard’s 160 boutiques

and jewellery manufacturer, Chopard is above all a family.

in presenting watch and jewellery creations crafted by gifted artisans in the company workshops.

In keeping with the tradition of the Scheufele family

48

A NEW ART IN TIME SPACE The new boutique also hosts a sales lounge entirely dedicated

presiding over Chopard’s destiny, each boutique is designed

to Art in Time. Developed on the initiative of Chopard’s

to reflect the image of a true family residence where visitors

Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Art in Time is a network

should feel at home. As they travel the world, they are

of watch galleries bringing together timepieces by independent

invited to visit each of these boutiques as a new place of

watchmakers united for the artisanal and original nature of

discovery. The Chopard boutique in Courchevel thus takes on

their approach. Following the very first concept store opened

the look and feel of a mountain chalet thanks to its antique

in Monaco in the spring of 2019, this latest gallery, located

oak parquet floors and comfortable sofas placed around a

in the Chopard boutique, becomes the second in this series of

pleasant fireplace made of local slate. A style that is both

establishments dedicated to independent fine watchmaking.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

BELL & ROSS Joins DOHA Jewellery & Watches Exhibition with Al Majed Jewellery BELL & ROSS, the high-end luxury watchmaker, will participate

panels. As is the case for all timepieces created by Bell & Ross, this

in the Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition and

new reference bears the brand’s DNA thanks to its minimalist

unveil its latest collection in cooperation with its longstanding local partner AL MAJED JEWELLERY, along with the world’s most prestigious and luxurious watch and jewellery brands. The

numerals, indices and hands on the dial.

The design of the BR03‑92 GREY LUM embodies the spirit of

story of Bell & Ross began at the end of the 20th century With a

instrument watches. With a contemporary style, the case features

dual Franco-Swiss culture, the watchmaking brand has become

the iconic Bell & Ross “circle in a square” design that refers to

an ultimate reference in the world of professional aviation

the silhouette of an aeroplane cockpit clock. Doha Jewellery

watches. During the Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition, fine

and Watches Exhibition (DJWE), now in its seventeenth year,

mechanical lovers will discover the now iconic Bell & Ross BR05

is an international show, a global luxury experience, and an

Collection as well as the reveal of the brand’s latest campaign

opportunity to see, learn about, enjoy and interact.

featuring BR03-92 GREY LUM. Designed according to the principles of industrial aesthetics, the BR03-92 GREY LUM is designed on a square case, which is instantly evocative of aeronautical and aviation instrument

50

design and the ultra-legibility of the Super-LumiNova® C3 on the

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition takes you on a journey through time and space to experience the wonder of luxury, design and exquisite craftsmanship.

DEFI MILLENNIUM

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Blancpain partners with the Michelin Guide BLANCPAIN IS DELIGHTED TO ANNOUNCE its association with

so as to create masterpieces. Time, moreover, plays a crucial

the famous gastronomic Michelin Guide. This three-year

role in the preparation of a refined delicacy. As a faithful

global partnership is a natural extension of the close ties

curator of time for almost three centuries, Blancpain will

binding the watch Manufacture and the world of haute

accompany the Michelin guide in its quest to seek out the

cuisine for more than 30 years.

most exceptional talents.

In addition to its roles as official timekeeper of renowned culinary contests and reviewer of the world’s finest

The encounter between the world of haute horlogerie and

restaurants in its corporate magazine “Lettres du Brassus”,

haute cuisine, between Blancpain and the Art of Living is

Blancpain has adorned the wrists of famous chefs for more

entirely self-evident, whether in terms of their common

than three decades. Surrounded by a circle of friends, past

attachment to fine craftsmanship, the importance placed on

and present encompassing more than 100 Michelin stars,

product quality, or the respect for terroir and traditions.

the Manufacture is now expressing its close connection with

52

BLANCPAIN, WATCHMAKER OF HAUTE CUISINE

This is the reason why Blancpain cultivates special ties

the famous Michelin Guide through a new collaboration.

with the greatest award-winning chefs. It all began in 1986,

Blancpain and the Michelin Guide thus intend to work

well before the current craze for haute cuisine, when the

together in promoting their touchstones of excellence,

brand offered its friend Frédy Girardet a specially engraved

passion and expertise. This long-term and wide-ranging

watch upon winning the “World’s Best Chef” award. Three

partnership will make its mark on the international

years later, Blancpain reiterated its commitment when the

gastronomic scene. Every year, more than 20 events and

latter, along with Paul Bocuse and Joël Robuchon, were

guides will celebrate haute cuisine, from Shanghai to Paris

named “Chefs of the Century”. The Manufacture honored

via New York and Tokyo, to mention only a few locations.

them at the time by giving each of them an engraved watch

Haute Horlogerie and haute cuisine share a similarly

commemorating the occasion. Since then, Blancpain’s circle

rigorous discipline: the quality of a Blancpain timepiece and

of friends has continued to grow and now includes new

of a gourmet dish both rely on precise adjustments along

names on the international gastronomy scene, including the

with a subtle blend of tradition, creativity and authenticity.

Spanish chef Martín Berasategui, Edgar Bovier of Switzerland

Watchmakers and great chefs alike demonstrate a fascinating

and Julien Royer from the Auvergne region of France, all of

ability to assemble a wealth of components and ingredients

whom have been awarded stars in the Michelin Guide.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Louis Moinet VS Coronavirus THE GENEVA-BASED EXHIBITION WATCHES & WONDERS has

THERE WILL BE VARIOUS POSSIBLE ACCESSES TO DISCOVERY

announced the cancellation of its 2020 edition for fear of

DAYS:

the worldwide spread of the novel coronavirus (COVID-19).

Baselworld will shortly announce the situation on their side, a show Louis Moinet has been present for, for over a decade.

Should the decision be taken that Baselworld 2020 is also

A – GENERAL PUBLIC Anyone will be able to log-on and view the presentation of the latest creations as well as a proposal to dive into Louis

cancelled, Louis Moinet is announcing a new and modern

Moinet’s unique heritage and contemporary patrimony;

platform: DISCOVERY DAYS.

B – MEDIA WORLD

The main values of Louis Moinet are the creativity of

Online press-conferences dedicated to accredited media

its products and the personal relationship with the watch

members (with photos and videos to be downloaded with just a

community, namely watch lovers, collectors, retailers or media

simple click);

representatives and bloggers.

C – RETAILERS / CLIENTS

Therefore, during the period initially planned for

One-on-one meetings – discovering what is behind Louis

Baselworld (30th April – 5th May 2020), Louis Moinet will

Moinet and its deep roots in watchmaking, as well as the

welcome the world at its Saint-Blaise headquarters, in

exclusive presentation of the latest creations.

Switzerland. During this period, DISCOVERY DAYS will be held at the “Imagination Room”, which will be transformed into a

54

We believe that this is a convenient solution to continue

virtual showroom. This will enable each visitor to discover the

positive discussions with the world in its current situation. Of

unique world of Louis Moinet and its latest creations through

course, and as always, Louis Moinet is welcoming today’s and

a sophisticated set of cameras.

tomorrow’s partners in person in Saint-Blaise.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond

EDITOR’S PICK CLOÉ MUGNY

Time lighter than air Far from terra firma, above the clouds, with endless blue stretching as far as the eye can see, all directions seem confusingly similar… Time measurement tools are therefore essential to enable pilots to find their bearings in the air.

Without them, it is difficult to keep track of time and not get lost amid the vast expanses of the open sky.

ZENITH

FAVRE-LEUBA

Pilot Type 20 Silver

Raider Bivouac 9000

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Montre d’Aviateur Chronographe Spitfire

GIRARDPERREGAUX Laureato Skeleton

icedea/stock.adobe.com

“Earth to Sky” Edition

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COVER STORY FADI JAMIL

HYT H5

Fluid.

Revealing.

Essential.

Water erosion traces the ongoing impact of Nature on Earth’s substance; fluid time by HYT tracks an unrelenting path through the past, present and future. The new H5 turns to the color blue to make its mark on an essentially contemporary concept of time.

Using a design language focused on three-dimensionality and transparency, this timepiece reveals time’s passage in the form of a vivid azure liquid. Running steadily through a fine capillary, the fluid frames a multi-layered horological masterpiece where movement is the constant.

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H

ublot’s creative partner since 2017, the contemporary

disruptive materials, evolves a work of art that is ready to wear.

sculptor Richard Orlinski blends his graphic universe

The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Orlinski,

and faceted style with the House’s watchmaking and

produced in three series limited to 30 pieces each, assumes

technological expertise. Both Hublot and Orlinski share the

a sculptural dimension, with the famous Hublot tourbillon

same inventiveness, fascination with colours and matters, and

movement entirely redesigned and its bevelled lines. A work

interplay of transparency and light, which they bring to life in

of art for the wrist, inspired by the French artist’s bestiary in

astonishing technical and aesthetic challenges. Several watches

faceted resin or hollowed-out metal.

of remarkable design have already been created by this technicalartistic fusion. Through the alchemy of facets, edges and

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This renewed collaboration is a fusion of two arts— watchmaking and sculpture—via two techniques held dear by

H5 CASE : Stainless steel, satin finishes, Stainless steel

crown, Domed sapphire crystal, Screwed caseback, sapphire crystal, “one of twenty-five” print DIAMETER : 48.8 mm MOVEMENT : Mechanical with manual winding, exclusive caliber, Rhodium thinlysandblasted bridges, 65-hour power reserve INTERFACE : Transmission between movement and fluidic module by conversion of rotation into linear movement using a cam-follower system, Isostatic connection of the fluidic system guaranteed by a trident HYT’s exclusive patented micro-fluidic module: Borosilicate glass capillary tube, nano-coating interior, Multi-layer metal bellows, Two immiscible liquids; one transparent, the other one colored with a highly resistant dye STRAP : Grey rubber, titanium folding buckle

THE HARMONY OF DIVERSITY Mechanical and fluidic innovation join forces in a propriety calibre, the 501. Two years of development went into a mechanism where CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON ORLINSKI CASE : Polished Sapphire crystal or polished

opposites attract and harmoniously interact. Layer by layer, element by element, the essence and relevance of time are revealed in

18K King Gold or microblasted black ceramic

a beautiful visual theatre. After all, HYT is an established master at

MOVEMENT : HUB6021 Manufacture manual-

enabling art and science to share the same stage.

winding skeleton tourbillon movement with power reserve indicator NO. OF COMPONENTS : 183 (25 rubies) DIAL : Matte anthracite grey

In the unique movement, a hand-winding unit sets a consistent pace. This releases precisely the right amount of energy for two

or matte gold or matte black color Skeleton

contrasting immiscible liquids to represent the recent past, the

STRAP: Transparent smooth (Sapphire) or black

present and the near future. Visible through the see-through sap-

smooth (King Gold and Black Magic) rubber straps BUCKLE: 3Titanium (Sapphire) or 18K Gold

phire case back, an intricately shaped cam offers thirteen different

5N and black-plated stainless steel (King Gold)

possibilities to adjust and index the hour and minute indications,

or black ceramic and black-plated stainless

ensuring they operate as one. An over-sized, curved lever connects

steel deployant buckle clasp (Black Magic) REFERENCES: 505.JX.6910.RT.ORL19 (Sapphire)

the movement’s collaborating elements. This orchestrates a complex

– Limited to 30 pieces / 505.OX.1180.RX.ORL19

chain reaction, whereby the caliber pushes against a regulating

(King Gold) – Limited to 30 pieces / 505.CI.1170.

bellow four times thinner than a human hair to launch time’s next

RX.ORL19 (Black Magic) – Limited to 30 pieces

twelve-hour journey.

DYNAMISM IN DETAIL The new H5 variation by HYT combines an array of shades of grey – from anthracite on the hour ring and flange, to a gun-metal

Orlinski: his animal icons, which are faceted (T-Rex, Wild Kong, bridgepointing – with dynamic angles, and colored a power accents. reserve This displayed punctuates on athe ring layered over or Panther) or open-work (Kong, tiger or “lace” bear), from thelook and which highlights a hand hovers, the corethis message skeleton that calibre each tiny breaks element with tradition. of the Born Wild© concept. Through his art, the violence of nature

wholeIn is addition vital to seamless to its stylised dynamic skeletonising, performance. the manufacture A sense of vibrancy

is transformed into a positive expression of hypnotic beauty. is heightened manual-winding by white movement Super-LumiNova® is distinguishable under thethanks blue liquid to itsthat The 45-mm diameter case of the new Classic Fusion Tourbillonshowslong elapsed five-day time,power and the reserve, neoralite indicated hour on ring. theAdial bright side, red and arcits and 5-Day Power Reserve Orlinski presents facets cut out of sapphire, a black sculptural hand, matching tourbillon that making of theone second revolution counter, per distinguish minute. On the a King Gold or black ceramic and unveils ultra-modern open-work powertransparent reserve. Justorasblack erosion rubber is Nature’s strap, fitted storyteller, with a deployant fluidity is buckle the architecture. With its wide mechanism apertures highlightingstoryteller claspof matching time itself. the case, this trio creates a composition of its gears and tourbillon cage, sleek matte bars with inward-

Thecontemporary blue edition of art.

H5 by HYT comes in a limited edition of 25 pieces.

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SPOTLIGHT FADI JAMIL

HydroConquest:

a new look in green Longines’ HydroConquest collection is now available in green hues. Adding to range, that hos models of blue, grey and block, the new additions in tones of green derive their inspiration from the fascinating world of aquatic sports and feature a bezel enhanced with a coloured ceramic insert adding a touch of brilliance and modern styling.

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T

he green model is the perfect addition to the HydroConquest collection’s blue, grey and black timepieces. The khaki model features a ceramic bezel insert that matches the colour of the

dial and ties together the fully modernized design and sporty silhouette.

Mounted on a stainless steel or green rubber strap, the watch, which is available in two sizes (41 or 43 mm in diameter), is powered by a self­ winding mechanical movement (L888.3 calibre).

Longines’ iconic HydroConquest collection meets the expectations of those

HydroConquest CASE : Stainless steel and ceramic, Scratch-resistant

sapphire crystal, with several layers of anti-reflective coating on both sides DIAMETER : 41.00 mm MOVEMENT : Self winding mechanical movement beating at 25’200 vibrations per hour and providing 64 hours of power reserve CALIBER: L888 FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, seconds and date STRAP : Stainless steel, with double safety folding clasp and integrated diving extension. Rubber strap, With double safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism.

who are drawn to the open sea.

HydroConquest timepieces preserve the traditional style of diving watches, inspired by the unique requirements of the sport. The distinctive characteristics of this collection include water­resistance to 300 metres, a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown and case back, crown protection and a double security folding clasp with integrated diving extension.

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To suit every wrist, Longines offers the model not only in khaki, but also in a brighter green hue. This model has a bright green vertical brushed ceramic dial, and it houses a L888.5 calibre that was designed exclusively for Longines, with a silicon balance spring. The 41 mm case comes with on interchangeable stainless steel bracelet and a green rubber strop in the some hues as the dial. Swapping them is a breeze and no tools are required thanks to the easy change system.

Whether in khaki or bright green, the new HydroConquest, which is the result of Longines’ expertise in the sports field, is sure to stand out with its sleek, bold look.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

71

INTERVIEW

BY BRICE LECHEVALIER

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Co-President, Chopard

You recently presented your new Alpine Eagle collection ; what was the most surprising reaction ?

During the initial presentations to our retailers, the Alpine Eagle received a unanimously positive response, which is rare ! Everyone was very positive, and it is easy to sense in such discussions whether people are really enthusiastic or just being polite. Several of them actually ordered some for themselves. The version with the blue dial is the most popular so far, as the harmony with the metal is particularly appealing. It is the one I also chose for myself ; I love blue in general and this shade in particular, but it is the first time I have worn a Chopard watch featuring blue. This is of course a matter of taste, because my son has chosen the gray dial.

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“Alpine Eagle is currently the only collection to feature the exceptional metal named Lucent Steel A223.”

Was the intergenerational creation process of the Alpine Eagle easier with your son than when you suggested the St. Moritz to your father ?

Whether with my son today in our collaboration on the Alpine Eagle or me back then with my father, the exercise proved to be an excellent learning curve in terms of both patience and understanding. Grasping the ins and outs of creating a new watch remains a tricky exercise and there’s a long path from the 3D rendering to production. My son saw how much attention needed to be devoted to every detail and realized that actually handling the watch could result in the need for certain changes compared with the prototype. At his age I experienced the same emotions, although at the time there were no 3D renderings, no wax models and in fact sometimes just a watercolor painting, so there were a lot less means available.

Will the Lucent Steel A223 metal you developed for the Alpine Eagle be used on other collections ?

First of all, it is important to point out that the development of Lucent Steel began before the first pencil strokes for Alpine Eagle, but it naturally established itself in the process as the obvious choice for this collection. For the time being, this extraordinary metal is reserved exclusively for Alpine Eagle, especially since this material is not as easy to work with as steel. It implied a lot of adaptation in terms of processes and machines. It calls for a gradual approach and will be introduced in other collections at a later stage.

As a mountain lover, what do you hope to accomplish through the Eagle Wings Foundation ?

As you may know, 20 years ago I was already involved in the Alp Action Foundation initiated by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan, with whom we conducted an annual project in the Alps, especially in the Bernese Alps. But it died with him and I had always promised myself to continue in one way or another, not only because I was very close to him but also because I love the mountains where I enjoy ski touring in winter. We explored the possibilities and embraced the Eagle Wings Foundation’s vision, which goes well beyond the bird itself in order to draw attention to the wonderful Alpine environment that requires urgent care. 

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What Chopard highlights can we expect in 2020 ?

In addition to our major events such as the Mille Miglia and the Cannes Film Festival, we will of course undertake activities relating to the Eagle Wings Foundation. In parallel, we have begun a program to renovate our stores so as to improve the customer experience, which is a very important project. The one in London has just been awarded a prize for its renovation, and the one on Place Vendome in Paris will follow in 2020, as will our Parisian premises that will undergo two years of renovation.

Our network comprises 150 boutiques worldwide, which means we take hosting our customers very seriously.

What do you think of the growing offer of second-hand “certified pre-owned” watches ?

If the consumer can benefit from a better organized and more secure market in order to buy a second-hand watch guaranteed by reliable purveyors, I think this is a good thing for watchmaking. This phenomenon is slowly taking hold in our sector but is very widespread in areas such as the automotive industry, where it seems quite normal for a dealer to also sell tested and guaranteed used cars. In the long term we may even end up offering our clients such a service.

What do you remember about your experience as a GPHG jury member after winning the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix in 2017 ?

I have always considered the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève as a great initiative. It does a great job of promoting fine watchmaking in general. Participating in its jury in 2017 and 2018, as the winner of the previous years’ “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix, was an exciting experience conducive to an openminded attitude, especially when comparing ideas on watches with other jury members. It gave me a better understanding of how watches are selected. This year, I visited the exhibition of 80 watches at the Musée d’art et d’histoire in Geneva, which is an incredible opportunity for the public to be able to view them in this way and enjoy the privilege of such a close-up look.

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FOCUS

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

JOY CORTHÉSY

An

odyssey

Known for its straightforward designs, immaculate finishing and limited production usually only in precious metals, elements that are all present in fan-favorites like the Lange 1 and the Zeitwerk, A. Lange & Söhne is now launching a new chapter with the brand-new Odysseus, its first regularly produced all-steel timepiece. The Odysseus owes its name to the epic journey of a project that began ten years ago. Since then, A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into creating an elegant sports watch has gone through several redesigns. It also symbolizes a new path for the brand, one where Lange watches are more dynamic and suited to daily life, rather than for special occasions only. The integrated bracelet is its biggest talking point, in brushed steel and equipped with a folding clasp adjustable by up to seven millimeters using the discreet pusher embossed with the Lange logo that can be pressed in or pulled for a more comfortable fit. The date and day windows are set via tapered buttons on the side of the case, perfectly streamlined into the overall case design. Reinterpreting sports-elegance in true Lange style, Odysseus is only the start of what comes next for the Saxony-based watchmakers.

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Odysseus CASE : stainless steel, sapphire crystal

caseback, water-resistant to 120 meters DIMENSIONS : 40.5mm x 11.1mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture caliber L155.1 DATOMATIC, self-winding, 50h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, day-of-the-week and date displays DIAL : brass, dark blue BRACELET : stainless steel with safety folding clasp enabling precise adjustment

FOCUS

AUDEMARS PIGUET

DAVID CHOKRON

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie CASE : 950 platinum, Supersonnerie caseback, transparent

sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 20m (2 bar) DIMENSIONS : 42mm in diameter, 14mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding 2959 caliber FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater DIAL : black with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold hands and appliques STRAP : black alligator leather with platinum folding clasp LIMITED EDITION : 20 pieces

Classical

music

But what exactly is this Royal Oak ? Those in the know will point out that Audemars Piguet does not produce its cult model with a small seconds movement. Connoisseurs will add that it no longer offers it in steel with an alligator leather strap. And they are all correct, given that ref. 26591PT is not what it might seem at first sight. The key to this mystery lies in noting the slight protrusion on the left side of the case and identifying it as minute repeater slide bolt. After a lengthy hiatus, the Royal Oak is once again rendered audible, albeit not with the help of a historical movement. After Royal Oak Offshore Concept and Jules Audemars models, this grand classic with its octagonal bezel has in turn been equipped with a Supersonnerie movement. The 2959 caliber is coupled with resonance table placed between the movement and the back, as well with a special caseback, together serving as a natural amplifier. The Supersonnerie therefore features acoustic intensity combined with clear and sustained sound quality. So much so that Audemars Piguet has taken the liberty of fitting it inside a case made of platinum, a soft metal that absorbs sound waves. A paradox, a luxury, an acoustic performance.

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FOCUS HERMÈS

JOY CORTHÉSY

Arceau Grands Fonds CASE : white gold with sapphire crystal caseback SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement,

mechanical self-winding, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : Glass mosaic STRAP : sapphire blue alligator strap

Into the deep In 1992, French artist Annie Faivre, known for her vivid abstract work, designed Hermès’s now-famous “Grands Fonds” scarf – the first of many wildly colorful scarves depicting marine life. Using the Arceau watch as the canvas, Hermès has taken inspiration from the “Grands Fonds” in creating the Arceau Grands Fonds : a limited edition of six pieces showcasing a unique glass mosaic technique on the dial. Its dial is a stunning depiction of the craftsmanship behind Hermès’s gifted artisans. In its turquoise ‘waters’ swims a blue and yellow fish, sprinkled with white spots, meticulously crafted out of a mosaic of colored glass tiles. This technique requires over a month of work on each dial, with each specialist selecting a range of colored glass tesserae, melting them at temperatures of over 700 °C to form thin filaments, cutting them into small squares and then carefully placing them one by one on the dial where the motif has been reproduced to scale. After being left to dry for a month, the mosaic is examined to see whether the tiles have settled to form the uniformly flat surface required for fitting the dial smoothly into the white gold case, yet incredibly challenging given the nature of ­molten glass. The delightfully whimsical Arceau Grands Fonds embodies Faivre’s original work, highlighted by the talent of artisans at the heart of Hermès’ manufacture.

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FOCUS

JACOB & CO.

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

In the dragon’s

clutches

Jacob & Co. is known for its spectacular watches. Not only are they extremely sophisticated and complicated timepieces, but they also literally stage a show. Anyone lucky enough to see the Astronomia in action is often stunned into silence when observing its cosmic choreography. At each end of the four-armed tourbillon structure sits a tourbillon, an hour and minute dial, a globe and a gemstone symbolizing the moon. Not only do these elements spin on their axis at different speeds, but the entire structure rotates around the dial in 20 minutes. The Astronomia Flawless Imperial Dragon uses the concept of this timepiece, while replacing the cosmic theme with the Chinese symbolism of the dragon. Made of pink gold, sculpted and then painted by hand, the dragon consists of three parts – the head, body and tail – assembled by tiny screws and coiling inextricably around the movement. This extremely realistic undulating posture is further enhanced by precise details relating to the eyes, claws, scales or tongue. The globe is still there, between its claws, as is the 288-faceted Jacob-cut diamond, diagonally placed next to its head. To ensure a 360° view, Jacob & Co. produced a monobloc sapphire case, a feat that

Astronomia Flawless Imperial Dragon CASE : monobloc sapphire with a dome-shaped sapphire

crystal featuring anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 meters SIZE : 50mm diameter, 25.45mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound, Jacob & Co. JCAM29, 21,600 vib/h, 60-hour power reserve, double-axis gravitational tourbillon, hand-carved and hand-painted pink gold dragon wrapped around the movement FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : titanium, blued Jacob & Co. hands STRAP : alligator leather, white gold folding clasp ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATION

required a hundred hours of work.

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FOCUS

ARMIN STROM

JOY CORTHÉSY

Minute Repeater Resonance CASE : Grade 5 titanium SIZE : 47.7mm x 16.1mm MOVEMENT : Armin Strom manufacture caliber ARR18,

collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers, manual winding, two independent regulation systems connected by the patented and certified Resonance Clutch Spring, 96-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : off-center hours, minutes, minute repeater DIAL : transparent with smoked finish STRAP : dark gray alligator strap and stainless steel double-folding clasp

Chiming

10

In the spirit of celebrating its tenth anniversary, Armin Strom has created a first : the Resonance Minute Repeater, a watch that is the essential embodiment of the watchmakers’ impressive technological achievements developed over their decade of existence. Inspired by the centuries-old chiming tower clock in the center of Bern, Armin Strom’s founders decided to work with Le Cercle des Horlogers, a company specialized in creating grand complications, to create the world’s first resonance minute repeater. Encased in a generous 47.7mm Grade 5 titanium case, the watch’s chime is clear and resolute. While Le Cercle des Horlogers took care of the minute repeater movement, Armin Strom added its patented Resonance Clutch Spring, an innovative spring shaped like a prong (visible in the dial center) that helps regulate the frequencies of the two oscillating balance-wheels, as well as improving the watch’s accuracy and energy conservation. The culmination of years of research and development, the Resonance Minute Repeater also offers a foretaste of what we will undoubtedly be seeing more of over the next ten years.

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FOCUS

BREGUET

JOY CORTHÉSY

Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Squelette 5395 CASE : 18K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal and caseback SIZE : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding skeleton

movement, ultra-thin Breguet Caliber 581SQ, 80-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : sapphire dial, signed Breguet STRAP : alligator strap with gold folding clasp

Breguet’s bet on thinness In this age of aiming for thin, thinner or thinnest in watch movements and cases, few have done it as impressively as Breguet with its Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Squelette 5395. Not because this is the thinnest tourbillon movement on the market today (other brands have managed to snag that record), but because, when it comes to expressing aesthetics through skeletonized movements and traditional craftmanship, this particular piece shows the brand’s centuries-old pedigree in both design and traditional watchmaking. Breguet has managed to fit in a whole lot of craftmanship and detail in a case that’s 41mm and a movement that’s only three millimeters thick. To achieve this thinness, the movement had to be redesigned to ensure an unobstructed view of the mechanism through the sapphire crystal, which displays the Clou de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern on the remaining plate surface and the smooth edges of hand-chamfered bridges. This ingenious piece of beauty and fine workmanship is available in two versions : a gray movement in a rose gold case and a rose movement in a platinum case.

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FOCUS ZENITH

JOY CORTHÉSY

El Primero’s rebirth When it comes to anniversaries, turning half a century is a big deal. It’s therefore no surprise to see Zenith dedicate 2019 to celebrating 50 years of its El Primero caliber, which

El Primero A384 Revival

has been a gold standard of chronometric timekeeping in the industry since its introduction

MOVEMENT : El Primero 400 Automatic

in 1969. And there is no better way to celebrate a legendary movement than by re-creating a faithful adaptation of the first watch to ever house the El Primero movement : the A384.

Marking the last piece to join Zenith’s El Primero 50th Anniversary Revival series, the A384 Revival remains aesthetically faithful to the original A384 watch : the compact, angled tonneau-shaped steel case, the vintage-style pushers and crown ; the lacquered white dials with black counters creating a panda-type layout. Back in the 70s, the A384’s design was considered futuristic, and while today the A384 Revival is technically “vintage”, this historical recreation of the 1969 watch still holds a certain contemporary appeal. So accurate is this Revival model that the only updates this piece features are the domed sapphirecrystal instead of acrylic glass, a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, and the fact that it houses the El Primero 400 Automatic caliber (ostensibly a fine-tuned grandchild of the original El Primero movement). Everything else remains true to the original 1969 model – a true celebration of an important milestone for Zenith.

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CASE : stainless steel SIZE : 37mm

caliber, 5Hz frequency, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, small seconds, 12-hour counter, 30-minute counter, tachymeter scale, date DIAL : whitelacquered dial with black counters with rhodium-plated hour markers coated in Super-LumiNova STRAP : black alligator strap or ladder bracelet

TECHNIQUE DAVID CHOKRON

All of a piece :

the craze for case/wristband integration

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BELL & ROSS BR05

MAURICE LACROIX Aikon Automatic

Watches with integrated case and wristband designs are popping up all over the place. Headlined by several iconic models, they in fact represent a veritable market segment, not merely a look attributed to certain brands.

A

mid the global frenzy driving casual chic, luxury and steel watches, one particular type of watch is enjoying ever-increasing demand. Such models are recogni-

zable by the seamless continuity between their case and their wristband, described as “integrated”. When this integration is well done, one can no longer tell where one ends and the other begins. They are omnipresent and every brand wants its own. They carry names such as Royal Oak, Nautilus, Overseas and their origins go back to the 1970s. They are so successful that they have whetted the appetite of many brands for these watches that are easy to wear, elegant and fluid by nature.

Girard-Perregaux has relaunched the Laureato and returned it to center-stage in its catalogue, as opposed to the peripheral role it has been playing for many years. Maurice Lacroix has created the Aikon Automatic, an undeniable success thanks to its extremely advantageous price positioning. Bell&Ross has invented the BR05, representing a new category for the French watchmaker, which has placed design at the heart of its approach. Finally, Chopard is offering an updated version of its flagship sports model from the 1980s, the St. Moritz, adopting the new name Alpine Eagle.

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AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak 15500ST

CODES The transition between case and wristband normally involves the lugs. These various elements may appear offset, variously placed and pointing in various directions. When everything is aligned ; when the lug becomes an extension of the case rather than merely a fastening ; when the first link is a fusion rather than a hinge ; when these two generally distinct elements (case and bracelet) are unified : the design is defined as integrated.

Nonetheless, the style of these watches is also based on a masculine aesthetic, of which the expressive nature focuses on the bezel. Octagonal, hexagonal, screw-down, ratcheted : there is no watchmaking domain where the appearance of this component is so important. So much so that as soon as the public sees screws or an octagon, they denounce plagiarism.

It must be said that Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus have become worldwide successes, trees that tower above the forest. 

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PATEK PHILIPPE

Nautilus 5711

CHOPARD

Alpine Eagle

REPEATABILITY It is difficult in this context not to mention GĂŠrald Genta. A prolific designer since the 1970s, he was behind both these watches, among others. What the countless tributes paid to this inexhaustible creative talent forget to say is that the man, now described as a genius, sold the same idea to several customers.

It is impossible not to notice the similarity between the two above-mentioned models. Only the passage of time has allowed the public to distinguish between them. Yet at the time of their respective launches, these models were not a success, testifying to the fact that design is not the only determining factor in ensuring the long-term desirability of a watch.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Overseas

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Laureato

CLEAR-SIGHTEDNESS In light of this historical perspective, commentators who cry foul and plagiarism at the sight of any new watch with an integrated case and wristband are all the more misguided. After all this time, it has become a watchmaking class of its own, like the round casual chic watch, like the diver’s watch, like the pilot’s chronograph. The design of each of these great classics is strictly codified. You first have to respect the basic rules and then set yourself apart, i.e. work on the details. Today, only a poorly informed or inattentive audience will see uniformity where in fact variety prevails. Because the range on offer today is so diverse, in terms of pricing, shapes, sizes and finishes, it is time to approach this category in a more clear-sighted manner.

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BOVET FADI JAMIL

Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter One Sapphire “writing slope” case, flying tourbillon, threedimensional moon phase, big date, 10 days’ power reserve, red quartz dial

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hosen for its crystalline transparency, sapphire is also the second hardest material known after diamond. The lightness of sapphire is also unsurpassed, and in fact weighs less than titanium. This novel choice represented a major challenge

for Maison BOVET’s technicians. While sapphire cases have been in use for almost forty years, their designs have, up to present, remained relatively simple, due to the machining and polishing constraints posed by this extremely hard material. The asymmetric profile of the middle, bezel, and glass of the “writing slope” case confronted engineers and technicians with hitherto unresolved difficulties.

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Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter One LIMITED EDITION to 60 movements including 10 with red quartz dial CASE : Dimier « writing desk » case DIAMETER : 48 mm MOVEMENT : Hand wound movement FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon, big date, power reserve indicator, hemispherical moon phase indicator DIAL: Convex red or green or blue quartz or propeller shape dial STRAP : Full skin alligator BUCKLE: 18K white gold ardillon

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DIMIER Collection Récital 29 Sought after by collectors the world over, it has since been produced in interpretations each more captivating than the last. Its revolutionary architecture offers new expressions of timekeeping that are overturning the rules of fine watchmaking.

The Récital 29 is the first timepiece featuring a steel “writing slope” case. Its inclination reveals a new fine watchmaking caliber entirely manufactured in the House’s workshops. Its reverse construction makes it possible to admire the swinging of the balance-hairspring on the front face of the timepiece, whereas this element is usually only visible through the back of the case. In this instance, BOVET 1822 watchmakers’ time-honored energy control guarantees five days’ power reserve with the use of a single barrel. This feat is achieved through each component’s uncompromising craftsmanship finishes, whose precision of execution limits the friction of the components in movement. This increases the power reserve by saving energy rather than increasing it.

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Récital 29 CASE : Dimier, Case Back, Sapphire DIAMETER :

42 mm MOVEMENT : Hand-wound movement FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, power reserve indicator, Precision moon phase DIAL: Dome, black or blue, guilloché with Arabic numerals, hemispherical moon phase globe with Superluminova STRAP : Full-skin alligator BUCKLE: Stainless steel ardillon

Virtuoso V CASE : Amadéo® convertible system DIAMETER : 43.50 mm MOVEMENT : Hand

wound movement FUNCTIONS : Jumping hours, retrograde minutes. Reversed hand-fitting (hours, minutes and seconds), power reserve indicator DIAL: Blue guilloché, “Fleurisanne” hand-engraving STRAP : Full skin alligator BUCKLE: 18K white gold ardillon CHAIN: 18K white gold

Amadéo Fleurier Complications Virtuoso V

Jumping hours, retrograde minutes and reversed hand-fitting In terms of technology, the Virtuoso V integrates two complications that are difficult to combine: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The jump of the hour disk must be perfectly synchronized with the jump of the minute hand. This timepiece belongs to the Fleurier Complications Collection and is fitted with the patented Amadeo convertible case, allowing it to be transformed into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock, or a pocket watch, without the need for a single tool. As a result, hours and minutes can be found on both sides of the movement. A power reserve indicator completes the indications by displaying a remarkable autonomy of five days, ensured by the use of a single barrel. Finally, to add to the timepiece’s functions, the watchmakers developed a corrector independent of the hour disk that can display a different time zone on each side of the timepiece.

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Fleurier 19 Thirty The 19Thirty collection was presented in 2015 exclusively in steel. The movement was specially developed for this collection, and the quality of its execution and finishes meets the same criteria of the Grandes Complications.

It offers seven days of power reserve with only a single barrel. Mr. Raffy, the owner of BOVET 1822, wanted this collection to offer two different cases including the iconic Fleurier case with its bow and crown that stand out with their 12:00 position.

The stir the collection created and the enthusiasm among collectors led Mr. Raffy to offer the19Thirty in a red gold case that can be bespoke to the collector’s taste.

This year, the collection features the Maison’s dedication to the decorative arts by offering a luxurious “Fleurisanne” engraving that embraces the hour and minute dial, as well as the second counter which form an eight: a symbol of luck and prosperity for the wearer.

For an added elegance, the « Fleurisanne » engraving is lacquered according to the color of the dial chosen by the collector.

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Fleurier 19Thirty CASE : Fleurier DIAMETER : 42 mm MOVEMENT : Hand-wound movement FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, power reserve indicator DIAL: Blue or black circular brushed dials with Roman numerals, Hand-engraved, with lacquered “Fleurisanne” motif STRAP : Full-skin alligator BUCKLE: Stainless steel ardillon

Virtuoso X BOVET 1822 invite you to Excellence and Proximity The craftsmen of the Ateliers BOVET demonstrate their propensity to innovate with the greatest respect for watchmaking traditions. While nearly 30% of the timepieces handcrafted today by Maison BOVET 1822 are unique pieces, the ones from the Ateliers BOVET allow collectors to bespoke their acquisition to a level of precision. The collector has the opportunity to join a team of specialists to define the specif technical and artistic detail of customization.

The first chapter of the Ateliers BOVET is the Virtuoso X Tourbillon timepiece which is limited to 10 pieces. Bovet’s Engineering Brilliance is presented in the decorative arts and the watchmaking techniques featured in this precious timepiece.

In the centre of each secondary dual time is a hand-painted hemispherical globe of the Earth. On the upper part of the two time zones is displayed the name of the city corresponding to the time zone. A clever combination of correctors allows summer and winter time to be taken into account for each of the 24 time zones.

The Virtuoso X Tourbillon features unrivalled levels of personalisation and finishes. The collector will have the opportunity to bespoke the names of the cities for each of the 24 timezones.

Virtuoso X CASE : Amadéo® convertible system MATERIAL : 18K red gold, 18K white gold or

Platinum DIAMETER : 46 mm MOVEMENT : Hand wound movement FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon, 2nd and 3rd Timezone with hemispherical earth map, 24h hand and 24 city disc. Reversed hand-fitting (hour and minutes), power reserve indicator TOURBILLON: 1-minute flying tourbillon DIAL: Blue flinqué dials and hand engraved with fleurisanne motif on the back side. The Earth globes are painted by hand with luminescent material STRAP : Full skin alligator BUCKLE: 18K white gold ardillon CHAIN: 18K white gold

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TECHNIQUE DAVID CHOKRON

Only Watch Unpacking what’s on offer

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DE BETHUNE /URWERK Moon Satellite

TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic One

Whether technical, innovative or simply different, these particular models have caught our attention among the 50 unique pieces up for auction during the 2019 edition of Only Watch.

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s the 9th edition of Only Watch draws nearer, certain facts are now well-established. First of all, the Patek Philippe watch, a steel Grandmaster Chime, is set to

account for between 30 and 50% of the total sum collected and shatter every record. There is no need to dwell on this incredible watch, since it has already been abundantly described. Another sure thing is that this tree hides a forest comprising a variety of species. Some are variations of existing models that feature just a touch of sky blue, the color theme of Only Watch 2019, while others go well beyond that. Because Only Watch has become a lab, a sounding board enabling brands to present their expertise and take measured risks, this naturally gives rise to interpretations that deserve a closer look. 

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RICHARD MILLE

RM 11-03 Automatic flyback chronograph McLaren

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MY

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F.P. JOURNE Astronomic Blue

EXTRA-ORDINARY Firstly, there are certain models endowed with symbolic or technical importance. François-Paul Journe is presenting the very first example – the prototype – of the most complex watch he has ever made, the Astronomic Blue. Tourbillon, remontoire, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and half a dozen astronomical indications : almost everything that makes F.P.Journe unique is condensed into this tantalum piece. Richard Mille is offering the prototype of his RM 11-03 McLaren, in Carbon TPT and Orange TPT Quartz, an addition to the 500 in the limited edition. Finally, Urwerk and De Bethune have launched their first joint watch, a watch with an x in the middle that is the token of the ubertrendy collaborative capsule editions. The Moon Satellite features the case (in an oblong version) and satellites of an Urwerk, the floating lugs and the 3D moon of a De Bethune and all the madness of these brands so remarkable for their originality and technicality. 

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Rue de la Chapelle 8 1207 Genève

BOVET Récital 23 Hope

MORITZ GROSSMANN Réserve de Marche Classique

UNUSUAL Tudor’s Black Bay is also a sure bet for Only Watch. For the first time (and some are hoping not the last), this vintage diver’s watch is available in a black ceramic case, with a black dial and black SLN hour-markers. Together, they form the Black Bay Ceramic One, or in other words, the only Black Bay with a sapphire caseback. Bovet and Louis Vuitton deserve a special mention for the miniature painting featured on their respective creations : a good fairy perched on a crescent moon adorns the well-named Récital 23 Hope ; while a thorny-stemmed rose motif graces the gemset Escale Spin Time Stopover. Meanwhile, Arnold & Son has created a blue-accented black dial version of its DSTB, and also offers the highest bidder the additional privilege of choosing the shape of the component performing the true seconds function of this model – a unique opportunity in this year’s auction. Moritz Grossmann has made the equally unique choice of renouncing its usual logo to at last match the sobriety and elegance of its watches. The German microbrand should thus win over a new audience.

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LOUIS VUITTON Escale Spin Time

BREGUET Type 20

ARNOLD & SON DSTB

INTRIGUING Finally, the Breguet enigma. Is this a test run ? A media stunt ?

Will the brand be renewing the design of its retro Type XX pilot’s chronograph ? Whatever the case, the version dedicated to Only Watch has what it takes to thrill fans of the genre. The Type 20 Revival 2055ST features a dial, SLN and hour-markers in various shades of extremely vintage beige/brown, as well as an oniontype crown and fluted bezel in line with the original series…

Watch this space, including after November 9, the auction date for the 50 unique pieces starring in Only Watch 2019.

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JET SET FADI JAMIL

SWISS LUXURY APARTMENT GENEVA The best of all worlds Our serviced apartments are fully equipped with everything you need for a comfortable stay, and our staff are on hand to provide you with whatever assistance you may require. As well as cleaning your room, they can also organise laundry and shopping services and arrange conference facilities. We understand that every last detail is important.

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The Swiss Luxury Apartments include both two-room and three-room apartments These superbly appointed suites are the perfect choice for discerning clients seeking luxurious accommodation with an outstanding array of facilities. They offer interactive HD TV, free high-speed secure LAN and WLAN Internet connections in every room, ECO air conditioning, fully adjustable LED lighting in the bathrooms, power shower and separate bath tub.

They also feature a fully equipped kitchenette with Nespresso coffee machine, kettle, refrigerator and wine chiller, plus luxurious sprung beds with Frette silk duvets and a choice of pillows to ensure you have a wonderful night’s sleep.

The Swiss Luxury Apartments are located opposite the Le Richemond Luxury Hotel & Spa and the Beau Rivage Hotel. They are situated right in the heart of the business district and close to excellent restaurants and exciting nightlife venues. Just two minutes’ walk from Lake Geneva, you are also just 600 meters from Geneva train station and approximately 150 meters from Geneva’s famous landmark, the Jet d’Eau.

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UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - MANSOUR JEWELLERS ABU DHABI - 02 626 4260 | DUBAI - 04 228 1115 BAHRAIN - TRAFALGAR ULD W.L.L - 01 726 2706

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