Interview
Jean-Christophe Babin CEO, Bvlgari
SPOTLIGHT Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two
Richard Mille RM72-01 LIFESTYLE IN-HOUSE CHRONOGRAPH
TEST BENCH Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph
GMT ME No 33 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2020
33
9 771660 110613
J09-3 GMT This model has been further improved. the day of the date was removed for better readability, after having improved the balance between case and bezel.
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EDITORIAL AUTUMN 2020
T
he year 2020 has posed a number of challenges to all of us, in every facet of life. Even in times of adversity, however, we find moments of pleasure, moments to celebrate, and the occasion of the announcements of this year’s Grand Prix d’Horloherie de Geneve (GPHG) is one such moment. The 354 members of the inaugural
GPHG Academy have spoken, and we are delighted to share with you the list of 84 contenders in the final round of selections below. As in previous years, the GPHG enjoys the support of valued partners like Wotldtempus, GMT Magazine and local enterprises such as Comptoir immobilier. Watch out for our continued coverage of the event over the next few months which will include a touring exhibition of the finalists around Switzerland, beginning in La Chaux-du-Fonds and finalising in Geneva in time for the ultimate vote by jury.
Until next issue,
FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
28
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
GMT MIDDLE EAST NO33 | AUTUMN 2020
We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing
craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures
Thus, after the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has been assembled for the first
long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-
time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement
ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
CONTENTS AUTUMN 2020
66 28 EDITORIAL 30 CONTENTS 32 CONTRIBUTORS
BUSINESS
58
36 HOT NEWS 66 INTERVIEW | Jean-Christophe Babin | CEO, Bvlgari 78 STRATEGY Chronode & Cyrus
80 TEST BENCH Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph
94 NEW RELEASES
LIFESTYLE
58 COVER STORY
56 EDITOR’S PICK
Richard Mille
Time lighter than air
RM72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph
84 STORY
62 SPOTLIGHT
Chopard
Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two
An eagle-eyed vision of the Alps
70 HARRY WINSTON
86 JET SET
Project Z14
74 HUBLOT
Coco Bodu Hithi Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP
30
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
70
CONTRIBUTORS
Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
Brice Lechevalier Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.
32
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Cloé Mugny
Marie De Pimodan
Christophe Persoz
A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.
An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.
This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.
Paul O’Neil
Michèle Brunner
David Chokron
The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.
An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.
An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.
Camille Guille
Edouard Haegi
Serge Panczuk
With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?
Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.
This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.
MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’
MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
United we stand among independents Through unprecedented collaboration DUBAI, U.A.E. – 4TH JUNE 2020: In this crowning expression of
borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. can thus be expressed in complete
the ties binding H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F for more than ten
freedom, also enhanced by a refined bezel. Four fumé dials have
years, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser have composed a
been chosen for the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser: Red fumé, Cosmic
duet recital in the form of an exceptional concerto for devotees
Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, of course, the famous Funky
of fine watchmaking. For the first time in its history, MB&F
Blue fumé. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is
is contributing to a Performance Art endeavour flowing in
made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F.
both directions in an entirely reciprocal manner. Within this
The mesmerising large suspended balance wheel continues
framework, the two Maisons are co-signing a pair of creations
to take centre stage, albeit completely redesigned on the LM101
whose DNA blends the main characteristics of each. A story of
MB&F x H. Moser in order to highlight the beauty of the fumé
friendship between two men against a backdrop of shared values,
dials. This beating heart, which represents the quintessence of
for the pleasure of building and sharing, and then of jointly
watchmaking in the eyes of Maximilian Büsser, has been fitted
presenting the results of this extraordinary project.
with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering
The Legacy Machine 101 distils the very quintessence of
36
AG. Thanks to this pair of matching balance springs, the
mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve
displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring
and the passing of time. It is therefore no coincidence that
as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and
MB&F has chosen to revisit this model – one of the purest and
isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection. In addition,
“simplest” in its collection – since it is indeed minimalism that
the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect
guided the creation of the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser model. Like
normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting
H. Moser & Cie. and the “back to basics” approach embodied in
in optimised isochronism. Through the case back, the curved
its Concept watch series, MB&F has chosen to remove its logo
sapphire crystal reveals the ‘engine’ driving this timepiece.
and return to its roots and indeed to the very origins of horology,
Unlike the base movement of the Legacy Machine 101, of which
when only the movements were signed. In the same understated
the finishes were determined by co-creator Kari Voutilainen,
spirit, it has abandoned the floating domed subdials to display
the aesthetics of the calibre that powers the LM101 MB&F x H.
the hours and minutes as well as the 45-hour power reserve by
Moser is more contemporary, with a subtle NAC treatment to
means of hands placed directly on the main dial. The fumé dials
enhance its beauty.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
D1MILANO.COM
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
SOONOW Instant Rainbow WHEN THE PAST MEETS THE FUTURE, something beautiful happens. It’s called the present. In these unique times,
The other colors of the rainbow spread across and around
we are constantly being challenged to explore new ways
the dial with refined gradual shading. Light dances with 668
of perceiving the now. Dropping on June 8th, 2020, the
sapphires, amethysts and tsavorites in 14 color variations. In
SOONOW INSTANT RAINBOW by HYT tells this intensely
combination with the violet anodized titanium dial, covered
contemporary, fluid story in a captivating, colorful way.
with 313 18-carat yellow gold pins, this heightens the overall
Time’s intrinsic flow presents itself as a broad spectrum of
radiance of the mesmerizing, three-dimensional whole.
possibility. “Now” potentially lasts forever, as it continually
At a time when circumstances challenge us to focus
becomes what was “soon” just a moment ago. Stopping and
gratefully on life, the styling of the skeleton on the dial of
preserving time are as illusory as scheduling and prolonging
the SOONOW INSTANT RAINBOW has a hypnotic quality.
a rainbow. All we can do is enjoy the beauty of both phenomena as they appear to us. This multi-colored timepiece, integrating the HYT patented
Its right eye shows the power reserve progressing smoothly through the entire color spectrum, as does the seconds indicator in the other socket. Different monochrome Super-
fluidic module, shows time and light performing their
LumiNova® outlines, around the openings for the eyes, nose
intrinsic magic, just as a ray of light interacts with water
and mouth, draw gazes.
drop to create a rainbow. Its design is rooted in the truth that both are in constant
38
colors, trace the paths of elapsed and future time respectively.
And, almost as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the hopedfor pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, is a grin full of solid
motion. Its message is that both should always be appreciated
gold teeth. These, and all times, should be looked straight in
and never restrained. Yellow and blue, two of the three primary
the eye from a place of wonder and hope.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Aikon Venturer 43mm, the two new faces of the urban adventurer ALWAYS IN MOVEMENT, the AIKON Venturer collection has
to the Easychange system, it can be swapped in the blink of
been expanded with two new models, created with a common
an eye for a vintage brown calfskin leather version with ecru
base but radically different aesthetics. The bronze and brown
topstitching. The ceramic bezel becomes a shade of brown,
ceramic version is bold and modern. The gold and steel model
while the six hour-marker arms stay true to the Venturer’s
with the anchor blue dial is sporty yet chic. Watches with
style and are brown like the case. This watch fitted with the
fashionable colour codes, destined for the city, a world that is
ML 115 automatic movement is available in a limited edition of
experienced in many different ways, just like Venturer.
500 pieces.
It is the ability to change that marks out the power of a design. That’s how AIKON Venturer continues its expansion
A SPORTY-CHIC APPEARANCE
into the urban world. Strong but not brutal, robust but not
There’s another first for the AIKON Venturer 43 mm which
massive, moder n but not futuristic, this automatic watch
features steel and gold, with steel components gilded with 2N
with three hands and a date function has a real presence on
yellow gold. The small bracelet links, crown and bezel’s arms,
the wrist. Whichever version you choose, its function sectors,
as well as its bright and delicate touches give new life to what
level of detail and the energy emanating from the piece directly
was previously just a functional model. But this version’s
signal the connection to the AIKON’s aesthetic codes.
function is completely different: a deep blue sunray-brushed dial with a ceramic bezel in the same shade that gives it an
A MODERN ADVENTURER’S UNIFORM For the first time, the AIKON Venturer features bronze.
entirely metallic watch. The choice of 2N yellow gold and
The 43 mm case is made from a special alloy that can be
deep blue gives a premium vintage 80’s look to the ensemble,
given a patina or browned without oxidizing. To increase
enriching Maurice Lacroix’s style vocabulary once more. The
the functional purpose of this metal, which is virtually
Easychange quick strap change system allows its user to
synonymous with a tool watch and as such per fectly suited to
change styles in a fraction of a second. Also fitted with the ML
the Venturer, Maurice Lacroix has finished it with a deep green
115 automatic movement, this model is part of the brand’s
sunray-brushed dial. This is also the colour given to the rubber
current collection.
strap with grooves that add structure to the piece. Thanks
40
elegant, sporty-chic look that reflects the real-life uses of an
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Celebrating the sound maker, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches two new memovox models in the master control collection DRIVEN BY A PASSION FOR INNOVATION, together with deep
watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre has added various useful functions to
respect for its watchmaking heritage, Jaeger-LeCoultre this
its Memovox models, such as a world time-zone indicator and a
year reinterprets the chiming complications that have been a
parking-meter reminder. In the same spirit, its engineers have
defining part of its long history: the minute repeater and the
now developed an entirely new useful function: the Timer.
Memovox alarm.
This enables the owner to set the alarm based on the number
Despite being one of the most useful (and charming) of all
of hours that should elapse before the alarm rings (for example,
complications, the alarm remains surprisingly rare in horology.
the duration of a meeting or the number of hours of sleep on a
In the 70 years since Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the first
given night). Alternatively, the owner may set the alarm in the
Memovox, it has become the reference in wristwatch alarms,
traditional way, based on a particular time (such as the time
appearing in timepieces designed for both urban lifestyles and
of an appointment or a wake-up alarm to catch a flight). The
underwater sports.
indicators are linked, so that whichever alarm-setting method is chosen, the second indicator will automatically move to the
MASTER CONTROL MEMOVOX Reinterpreting the graceful and uncluttered dial of the
corresponding position. The dial is laid out in concentric rings, in two shades of blue
original 1950 Memovox in a streamlined modern style, the new
with a sunray finish, complemented by an inner ring engraved
Master Control Memovox presents the classical combination
in bas-relief with polished numerals. On this inner ring,
of alarm and date display with a silvery sunray-brushed dial.
the elapsed hours-until-alarm are indicated by a small hand
The applied indexes add refinement, their elongated triangular
tipped with a red JL logo. Set at the outer edge of that ring, the
shape – a signature of mid-century Memovox models – is echoed
Memovox’s signature triangular marker points to the time at
by the Dauphine hands, and a blue seconds hand adds a subtle
which the alarm will ring.
pop of colour to animate the silvery-white palette.
The Master Control Memovox Timer will be produced in a limited edition of 250 pieces.
MASTER CONTROL MEMOVOX TIMER Over the decades, underlining the practical value of alarm
42
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Elegant and timeless, the Flagship Heritage dares to go black Longines pays a glorious tribute to its Flagship collection with a new model that features a black dial and emblematic design from the 1950s. Inspired by a rare piece from the era, this watch showcases a simple and timeless aesthetic. Combining technical expertise and vintage elegance, this timepiece enriches the brand’s Heritage line.
LAUNCHED IN 1957, the Flagship collection was one of the first lines to be named by Longines. The flagship flies the flag of
unveils a black lacquered domed dial with a polished finish,
the commander-in-chief of the fleet. With this resolutely
accentuated by applied indexes in the shape of faceted
conquering name, the collection would go on to become a
trapezoids. Located at 6 o’clock, the date is indicated by an off-
crown jewel for the winged hourglass brand from the 1950s
centre small seconds counter and the “Flagship” inscription,
onwards. Initially intended for men, these watches also
both emblematic of the watchmaking aesthetics of the
enjoyed great success with female customers.
1950s. The dolphinshaped hands enhance this understated
Today, Longines revisits this timeless, unisex design by drawing inspiration from a rare model with a black dial from
composition, encased in an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. An emblem of the collection, a golden caravel decorated with
1957, which is particularly prized by collectors. Combining
blue enamel is engraved on the screw-down case back. The
technical expertise and elegance, the new all-black Flagship
model is presented on a black leather strap decorated with fine
Heritage will appeal to all vintage watch enthusiasts.
beige stitching and equipped with a pin buckle.
This timepiece is equipped with a self-winding mechanical
44
Faithful to the design of the original watch, this model
This new variation completes the Flagship Heritage line,
movement (L615) and includes a stainless steel case with
which until now consisted of a steel version with a cream
a diameter of 38.50 mm. A characteristic feature of the
dial, as well as a limited series launched for the collection’s
collection, the case also features bevelled, inward-pointing
60th anniversary, celebrated in partnership with the brand’s
horns, which gives the piece a refined and stylish silhouette.
Ambassador Kate Winslet.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Paris 8ème
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Petite heure minute “Tiger” Respect, devotion and admiration, or all three at once: the strength of the new creation from Jaquet Droz’s Ateliers d’Art captures the Tiger’s spirit like never before. “JUST ONE LOOK CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE”. The common
Grand Feu enamel dial) the intensity of the feline’s gaze. On
saying, often used for feelings of love, also holds true for
a black dial (with case in white gold), a white Tiger with ice
art. Jaquet Droz has been inspired by this expression for
blue eyes has delicately been painted using fine brushes, some
its two new creations. Through one single piece available
as thin as a strand of hair. On the ivory dial (with case in red
in two variations, the brand has united the essence of its
gold), the Tiger displays its famous black and orange fur with
watchmaking and artistic expertise.
green eyes, the most famous characteristics of its species.
The simple and eloquent name of the new Petite Heure
the fine detail of the gaze in its entirety to appear almost
to evoke the power and grace of the most respected feline in
lifelike. The Tiger’s fur is painted with the aid of a microscope.
the world. Jaquet Droz has succeeded in captivating its spirit
Each hair is individually painted to reproduce the feline’s thick
by releasing two limited series of 28 pieces, each capturing
and silky fur. The great care taken in creating the iris and
your attention with their gaze. The Petite Heure Minute model
pupil give the illusion that the Tiger’s gaze follows whoever
has also been chosen to free up maximum space on the dial to
looks upon it, wherever they are. Through this magic, the fruit
display the full intensity of the Tiger’s glaze in the miniature
of an entirely handcrafted meticulous work of art, Jaquet Droz
painting.
continues to explore the naturalist theme which has decorated
The Ateliers d’Art have also been able to express their quintessential expertise by representing (on a black or ivory
46
The ultimate precision of Jaquet Droz’s Ateliers d’Art enables
Minute speaks for itself: “Tiger”. This is often enough by itself
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
its clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches for almost three centuries.
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
A limited-edition watch celebrates the new Patek Philippe manufacture building TO CELEBRATE THE COMPLETION of its new production building
visibly against the white dial imprints as well as the applied
in Plan-les-Ouates (Geneva), Patek Philippe created an exclusive
numerals and the white-lacquered hands in white gold with
Calatrava in stainless steel with a unique design that will cause
luminous coatings.
the hearts of collectors to skip a beat.
In its center, the dial features a “carbon”-style texture that plays with light and can be interpreted as an enigmatic footnote
A KEEPSAKE IN STAINLESS STEEL This new Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava instantly stands out with
referring to the world of high-tech. Another special feature: The calfskin strap with white decorative seams, the prong buckle,
its case and broad cambered bezel in polished steel, a very rare
and a delicately embossed structure reminiscent of textile
material in Patek Philippe’s collections that is particularly
fabrics are coordinated in terms of color and structure to match
coveted among connoisseurs. The design of the dial reflects an
the dial center.
inimitable and dynamic face. Be it the railway track scale of the hour circle with triangular markers, the pierced baton hands for the hours and minutes that recall the Ref. 6006 Calatrava (part
The commemorative Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava comes in a
of the collection since 2017), the integration of the self-winding
limited edition of 1000 watches with a diameter of 40 mm and
caliber 324 S C movement with an aperture date at 3 o’clock
a sapphire-crystal caseback specially marked with a Calatrava
or the applied Arabic numerals: all these elements contribute
cross and the “New Manufacture 2019” inscription. 2019 is the
to a vibrant and exciting dial architecture. The expressly
year when the first work groups moved into the new production
graphic style emphasizes the technical personality of the dial.
building. The exclusive styling of the watch stands as a lasting
At the same time, the gray-blue hue is a signature element
symbol for this new chapter in the history of Patek Philippe.
accompanied by the subtle circular satin finish that contrasts
48
A LIMITED EDITION OF 1000 WATCHES
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Grey Cermet makes an appearance in the new RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT TRUE TO THE RICHARD MILLE SPIRIT, grey Cermet is the
order to adhere to REACH standards, which ensure safety in the
fruit of painstaking research conducted by the brand,
production and use of chemicals in the European industry.
which is unrelenting in its commitment to the creation
IMI Group, specialising in microtechnology, to remove these
watchmaking combines the lightness of titanium and the
undesirable binders and only retain suitable materials. The
hardness of diamond. The construction of the automatic
innovative procedure used for this solution pairs classic hot
movement gives pride of place to titanium.
stamping with a series of powerful electrical current pulses to
Its functions notably include a GMT display that can be simply
increase the sintering kinetics, a technique known as ‘flash
adjusted thanks to a pushpiece at 9 o’clock, a 24-hour flyback
sintering’. Its density of 4.1 g/cm3 – less than that of titanium –
chronograph, and an annual calendar. The added grey Cermet is
and its hardness of 2,360 Vickers – almost the same as diamond’s
adapted to the pure aerodynamic lines of the iconic case, which
2,400 Vickers – make Cermet a judicious choice for use in bezels
measures 50 x 42.70 mm with a total thickness of 16.15 mm.
that are very exposed to scratches, while maintaining overall
The Cermet owes its unique grey colour to the combination
lightness. Cermet’s physical properties are widely recognised,
of a metallic zirconium matrix with high performance
hence its frequent use in ballistic protection, external aerospace
ceramic inserts. Its implementation required a degree of
fuselage components, and in the brakes of competition vehicles.
rigour commensurate with that needed to create the materials
The combination of a Carbon TPT® caseband, a grade 5 titanium
themselves. Heating and pressing together very different kinds
caseback and a grey Cermet bezel helps to significantly reduce the
of materials at a high temperature without altering their
weight of the RM 11-05.
respective qualities was a challenge. It proved even more difficult to obtain a homogeneous whole, as nickel and cobalt, which are normally used in this family of hard materials, were excluded in
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It took many years of development for Richard Mille and the
of new materials. This exclusive Richard Mille material in
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Limited to 140 pieces, the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT will be available from July 2020.
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Introducing the new
Omega Constellation Gents’ Collection IN THE WORLD OF WATCHMAKING, OMEGA’s Constellation
provided the collection with a more slender look compared
style. Now, the next generation of models for men is proudly
to models of the past, and even the crown has been subtly
being launched.
reshaped for added style. Adding to this effect, the hands have
The new 41 mm watches reflect a particularly bold and
been given a slimline update, and the new indexes take their
sophisticated spirit, while they also beautifully capture the
inspiration from the Manhattan skyline, most notably the
Constellation’s most famous design traits – such as the iconic
triangular facets of the Freedom Tower.
claws, and the half-moon facets at either end of the case. Furthermore, OMEGA has integrated some of its finest and most
Most of the new 2020 models will be presented on leather straps with an anti-bacterial rubber lining. A decorative
advanced watchmaking materials into the designs. This includes
metallic link connects each side of the strap to the case,
models in stainless steel, 18K gold, or a combination of both.
creating a unique look of its own. Those who prefer an overall
Additionally, almost all the bezels have been crafted in polished
metallic look can match their new model with any bracelet in
ceramic – replicating the look of the original Constellation
the Constellation 39mm collection, or its full leather strap.
Manhattan of 1982, which used shiny sapphire glass. Only one model in the new collection features its own
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Bevelling along the edges of the case and claws has
has long been a symbol of exquisite precision and timeless
Finally, the caseback features sapphire crystal that offers a view of the OMEGA Master Co-Axial Calibre 8900 / 8901
stainless steel bezel, which is enhanced by blackened Roman
inside. All watches have been Master Chronometer certified
numerals. For the other models with ceramic bezels, the
by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) at the
Roman numerals have been produced in either OMEGA
industry’s highest standards of precision, performance and
Ceragold™ or Liquidmetal™.
magnetic resistance.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
DEFI MILLENNIUM
A DISTINCT SENSE OF STYLE LIGHTWEIGHT. HIGH PERFORMANCE.
WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Big Bang Unico Sky Blue Between the water and the air, the Big Bang becomes the horizon IN THE BLUE OF THE SEA AS IN THAT OF THE SKY, aquatic and
the blues of the water and the sky unite endlessly. Sailboats
ethereal, both relaxed and sophisticated, the Big Bang Unico Sky
then reach the wild coves of the White Island, where the nights
Blue invites you on a journey. From Mykonos to Ibiza via Saint-
blend into the days and where the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue puts
Tropez, the background is set. Cut out of ceramic, this new
on its second strap, in sky-blue and white rubber.
model makes an innovative material your new basic.
By serenely breaking up time to the rhythm of the Unico manufacture movement, the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue
WHAT IF YOU WENT ON HOLIDAY…
encourages this feeling of freshness and infinity.
JUST BY LOOKING AT YOUR WATCH… The time that ticks away on the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue inspires a light and relaxed rhythm. That of the summer, of
Beneath a minimalist appearance, its pale blue reveals
time for oneself. With its wide 45-mm diameter case, it is an
nonetheless a material whose resistance to wear is undisputed.
invitation to escape. In all simplicity, it has adopted the colours
This is ceramic, which Hublot has come to master. In 2019,
of the leading summer spots. With its combination of pale blue
Hublot created ceramic in bright colours, a patented world
and white, it arrives on the most renowned of the Cyclades
first. Since then, all – or almost all – of the Pantone colours are
islands, where the blue waters of the Aegean Sea contrast with
within its reach. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue brings together
the whiteness of its lime-washed houses under a clear blue sky.
two Hublot essentials—the iconic Big Bang model and the Swiss
Its relaxed style, sporting a velcro fabric strap with a sky-blue
watchmaker’s material of choice. A watch and a material that
ceramic deployant buckle clasp, travels the blue waters of the
have been writing Hublot’s history for 15 years.
Mediterranean to drop anchor in the Bay of Saint-Tropez, where
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FROM THE BLUE OF THE SKY TO CERAMIC
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM
EDITOR’S PICKS JORDY BELLIDO
Top Chrono !
Ready, steady, go ! BREGUET
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CARL F. BUCHERER
PANERAI
Marine Chronographe
Heritage Chrono
Luminor Luna Rossa
5527
BiCompax Annual
Regatta – 47 mm
Split-Seconds
Resistant to the seafaring conditions thanks to titanium, an omnipresent material that reinforces its sporting spirit, this chronograph houses the 582QA caliber, of which the mechanism may be viewed through the transparent sapphire caseback.
Issued in an 888-piece run and equipped with a tachymeter scale, this Heritage model pays tribute to the design of the historic model, while adapting to contemporary mechanical requirements thanks to its CFB1972 caliber.
Presented at SIAR 2019, this model contains the same robust components as those used on some sailboats in the America’s Cup. The integrated flyback chronograph pays tribute to regattas.
Chronograph Kimi
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
RICHARD MILLE
RM 50-04 Tourbillon
Räikkönen With a new six-column wheel as well as a blade on the split-seconds wheel of the RM50-03 caliber, the timekeeping performance of this Formula 1 30-piece limited edition is optimized.
When elegance meets performance, the chronograph enters the competition. When your thirst starts to kick in, check out WorldTempus where a 400-page guide to the best chronographs in 2019 is ready to download. Meanwhile, enjoy a foretaste with this selection. Ready, steady, GO !
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Kalpagraphe
EBERHARD & CO. Nuvolari Legend
GRAHAM
REBELLION RE-VOLT x RocketByz
malija /stock.adobe.com
Chronofighter Vintage Ltd
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 57
COVER STORY FADI JAMIL
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RM 72-01 LIFESTYLE IN-HOUSE CHRONOGRAPH
W I T H I N at the heart of creativity Every new creation is a world unto itself. A wholly new space born of a play between spirit and sensation. Singular yet timeless, innovative and performance-driven, the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph is poised at the intersection between Haute Horlogerie, dance and music. Movement is all. Movement of time, of bodies, of notes.
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T
he latest ‘face’ of Richard Mille—the ultimate metronome
withdraw from the gear teeth, has been twinned. There’s now one
of emotion—is a work in which technicity serves and drives
for the minutes and another for seconds. This system is thinner
elegance. It’s also an in-house creation, featuring the first
than a vertical clutch, which would be hard to fit into the heart of
flyback chronograph entirely developed and designed by the brand.
the movement,’ explains Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for
An achievement crowning no less than 30 months of full-time
Movements. As a result, the chronograph function has little impact
work on the part of a dedicated team.
on the power reserve. The Calibre CRMC1 thus remains quite slim, at
The new RM 72-01 keeps time, three beats to a measure, a rhythm emphasising three numbers: three, eight and eleven. Three
Equipped with 24-hour and 60-minute counters positioned at 5
beats for the three counters that immediately capture every eye.
o’clock and 2 o’clock respectively, it proves that a chronograph need
The hands dance in stylised harmony within their three respective
not be limited to timing only short periods. This mechanism was
timescales (blue for seconds, orange for minutes, green for hours),
entirely imagined, manufactured and assembled in Les Breuleux, at
orchestrated by a six-column wheel.
the brand’s facilities. Its sublime precision can be viewed through
The transfers from minutes to hours have been isolated from the
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just 6.05 mm thick, despite comprising 425 different components.
its openwork caseback, a hallmark of the Richard Mille brand.
seconds wheel in this flyback chronograph which incorporates a
This model is available in four different combinations—5N
double oscillating pinion mechanism developed and patented by
red gold, titanium and black or white ceramic. It features an
Richard Mille. The brand has submitted a patent application for
automatic winding movement, with a 50-hour power reserve
its double-clutch chronograph. ‘This pinion, which can enmesh or
irrespective of how much the chronograph is activated. It is a
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
strikingly architectural watch offering true ease of use. Embodying
behind the camera this time, at the Joshua Tree, in the heart of
pure mechanics and hand finishing, it is designed for everyday use.
sand and stone. This stark mineral environment exalts the nobility
It was evident that renowned artists such as choreographer
and beauty of the materials Richard Mille employs for its watches.
Benjamin Millepied and composer Thomas Roussel would be
Amidst this sublime decor, the dancers unfurl a choreography of
needed to fully express in technical and artistic terms, the
cyclical parallels that sifts and winnows the seconds, clothing time
tremendous ambitions of this project. Like Richard Mille, both
and space with intense vitality and energy.
of these hybrid creators have built their oeuvre, W I T H I N, on a
This mysterious setting, in which humanity appears to
resolutely singular vision and an obsession with perfect timing
reconnect with our origins, was a perfect source of inspiration
and harmonious movement.
for Thomas Roussel. After sampling the watch’s chronometrice
Be it in the realm of ballet or symphonic orchestra, Benjamin
function, the compositor built a tempo around it, a musical
Millepied and Thomas Roussel both rely on a wealth of heritage
rhythm anchored in the raw energy and abandon of the dancers.
and tradition to shape modern visions of their respective arts. They
Around a whirlwind of vitality, he weaves a music redolent of
fashion singular works that powerfully combine the quintessence
origins, repetitive and mysterious. The composition was recorded
of their disciplines and their contemporary sensibilities. And it
by the fifty musicians of the prestigious London Symphony
is precisely this hybrid synthesis of science and emotion that
Orchestra in the studio at St. Luke’s church in London.
prompted them to embrace the watchmaking brand’s new project. For their a work titled W I T H I N, Benjamin Millepied took place
The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph encapsulates the original movement.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 61
SPOTLIGHT FADI JAMIL
RÉCITAL 26
BRAINSTORM® CHAPTER TWO DOUBLE-FACE FLYING TOURBILLON, WORLD TIME WITH INDEXABLE SECOND-TIME ZONE, MOON PHASE, AND FIVE DAYS’ POWER RESERVE
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T
he Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two is the second timepiece in the Bovet collection to be fitted with a sapphire crystal case in the emblematic writing case with an asymmetrical profile imagined by Mr.
Pascal Raffy in 2016. The slope of its bezel allows the collector to explore new display mechanisms that guarantee intuitive and increased readability. Concentric rollers, rotating domes, and three-dimensional needles were used to express time in new ways. The protected design of the writing case opens up new horizons in terms
Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two CASE : Dimier « writing desk » case DIAMETER : 47.80
mm, Sapphire with titanium lugs and case-back, MOVEMENT : Hand-wound movement, Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, three-dimensional moon phase indicator, World time with indexable second timezone with hemispherical city indicator CALIBER: 17DM06-DT STRAP : Double face full skin alligator with platinum thread stitching, 18K white gold folding buckle
of the very architecture of the movements, by optimizing the volume which simultaneously increases the functionalities offered, the chronometry, the reliability, and the readability. A dome dial, available in a choice of blue or green translucent quartz or blue aventurine glass, displays the hours and minutes of local time in the upper part of the case. The seconds are read by an index fixed on the tourbillon, itself, placed at 6 o’clock which makes a complete revolution, in 60 seconds. Finally, two rotating domes placed, respectively, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock harmoniously complete the shaping. The dome, located at 3 o’clock, displays a second time zone. The names of 24 cities representing the 24 time zones
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are printed on the rotating part of the dome which makes a complete revolution, by scanning the 24-hour graduation of the base ring. In perfect symmetry, the moon phase indicator is positioned at 9 o’clock and is also displayed by a rotating dome. The surface of the lunar ground is engraved by hand before luminescent material is applied, also, by hand. The two circular windows which overhang the dome make it possible to read the age of the moon according to the specific orientation of its crescent, whether one is in the northern hemisphere or the southern hemisphere of the earth. As usual, collectors may bespoke their timepieces and thereby acquire unique pieces. Regardless, no more than 10 of any single style made from these 60 movements will be crafted.
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INTERVIEW BY BRICE LECHEVALIER
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO, Bvlgari
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You have just inaugurated your watch exterior component manufacturing facility, and you also held an open day at your movement manufacturing facility for selected VIPs. What benefits do you derive from this vertical integration ? The creation of our watch exterior component division actually corresponds to a strategy of vertical integration undertaken a decade ago, because Bvlgari has been manufacturing its cases, dials and movements for years. Our production units were spread over five sites and called for a certain amount of rationalization. We have already merged our watchmaking expertise center in La Chaux-deFonds with our movement production site in Le Sentier, by building a multi-purpose movement center enabling far greater flexibility and responsiveness. This makes it possible to produce what is requested and not only what is planned, thus avoiding building up stocks and enabling huge gains, since our replenishment times have been cut from eight months to three months. Our assemblers thus move seamlessly from a simple time-only three-hand watch to more complicated models with or without a tourbillon. Grande Sonnerie models naturally remain the exclusive preserve of three expert master watchmakers. The same applies to our new watch exterior component division, since there are also synergies in the production of dials and cases, such as polishing or machining, even though these two professions were created independently at Bvlgari. This is doubly positive in that it benefits not only clients, but also employees whose expertise thus evolves and gives them access to broader potential career options, which is not always the case in a medium-sized company. Are the five world records in thinness achieved by Bvlgari within just a few years beginning to bear fruit in terms of enhancing the brand image among final customers ? This is clearly evident, as confirmed by our retailers who show us greater consideration, as well as increased demand for our men’s watches. At the same time, this recognition of watchmaking expertise also reinforces interest in our ladies’ watches. Customers appreciate having a watch designed for them by a real high-end watch brand, which explains why Bvlgari is able to grow despite the difficulties currently facing the market. Your Bvlgari hotel in Dubai is hosting an LVMH watch event in July ; is this important for you ? Traditionally at this time of year, we have been accustomed to meeting with the international press and our clients in Geneva on the sidelines of the SIHH to present our new products so that they could plan their year. Since the watch shows have been switched to the end of April/beginning of May, in order not to lose four months on our 2019 momentum, our LVMH January encounter in Dubai puts us in touch with the best watchmaking journalists on the planet and the best retailers of the Bvlgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith brands in order to achieve a significant part of the 2020 turnover. All this while many other brands will still have to wait several months. Hosting visitors in a Bvlgari hotel provides a context of very high-quality hospitality, far more conducive to building partnerships than at watch fairs. This Dubai event therefore replaces our old Geneva Days, perhaps even Baselworld in the future, we are not yet sure.
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“Bvlgari is pursuing its development despite the current market difficulties.”
Bvlgari has just taken part in the Dubai Watch Week ; what was the purpose of that ? We participate through our retailer Seddiqi, which handles Bvlgari in the region, and has created an excellent platform in terms of visibility, especially for male customers. The Dubai Watch Week is a golden opportunity to showcase our expertise in men’s watches with our five world records and our awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève over the years. Bvlgari should emerge positively in the eyes of visitors and of the Seddiqi clients attending our dinners. Bvlgari watches are currently enjoying a healthy dynamic ; what is the outlook for 2020 ? With the tensions in Hong Kong, which according to official figures is the leading export market for watches, the sector is declining significantly and this is likely to affect the first months of 2020 as well. The sharp drop in tourist arrivals in Hong Kong is not offset by transfers to other destinations. Even if the Hong Kong and Beijing governments find a solution, mistrust will linger for several months, as was the case with the yellow vest movement in France, thereby penalizing watchmaking. Fortunately, just as during the 2014 slowdown, Bvlgari is starting the year with a new collection whose positive effects should last 18 to 24 months and enable us to post growth above the market average. Seduttori ladies’ watches were created for more everyday use and reach a new clientele. In addition, the Lvcea Skeleton model is becoming an unexpected bestseller whose success we will interpret in various ways, and we will unveil at our Dubai event Octo models that continue to prove very interesting. How is the high-end market doing on both feminine and masculine levels ? Bvlgari is achieving healthy sales with the Octo Tourbillon Saphir models, of which customers sometimes also request versions in jade or other precious stones, at prices amounting to CHF 400,000 or CHF 500,000. The success of very high-end watchmaking also applies to Haute Joaillerie ladies’ watches with small complications such as the tourbillon. This segment is already an important part of the market, but there is room for progress if I look at what is happening with other brands.
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Le Richemond Geneva
DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS
Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com
#MYRichemond
HARRY WINSTON FADI JAMIL
Project Z14
Like its predecessors, Project Z14 reconciles creative contradictions, as refined details meet bold mechanics. The strategic staging of architectural elements to create a tridimensional timepiece is a Project Z signature. Transparent materials and varying finishes allow for an open-dial design that is defined and modern.
F
or fourteen years, the Project Z series has balanced consistency and innovation. At the forefront of this collection is Zalium, the ultra-light, corrosion-resistant alloy used to craft each case. Another series signature, the Project Z14 is limited
to 300 units. While key elements remain the same, the Project Z simultaneously brings unexpected newness each year. In Project Z14, a retrograde second with a 30-second range, new openwork structure and dominant gray color palette punctuated by shades of blue make their mark.
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Project Z14 LIMITED EDITION to 300 pieces CASE : Zalium DIAMETER : 42.2 mm MOVEMENT : HW2202, Mechanical, automatic winding FUNCTIONS : Excentered hours and minutes, retrograde seconds DIAL: Architectural three-dimensional dial, blue transparent retrograde counter STRAP : Textile effect rubber, rubber base BUCKLE: Ardillon buckle made of Zalium with folding security clasp
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THE STRENGTH OF A CASE The Project Z14 case is distinguished not only by its material,
The unique dial consists of stages, facets, bevels, slopes and angles. All of these elements come together in an openwork
Zalium, but also by its shapes, lugs, crown and signature
structure that floats above the movement, which is visible and
arches that recall the entrance to Harry Winston’s Fifth Avenue
features the signature radiant Co tes de Gene ve finishes. With
Flagship Salon.
polishing, varnishing, recesses and an almost incalculable
This year, different from past years, the case features a
number of angles, the iconic quality of Project Z14 comes to life.
chamfered bezel and arches to pay homage to the beveled finishes on the dial. With a thickness of 10.7 mm, this case successfully reconciles
MOVEMENT ARCHITECTURE Behind the dial beats the HW2202 caliber, a 4hz motor base,
technical watchmaking with exemplary ergonomics. The 42.2
with 65 hours of power that draws its energy from an openwork
mm diameter case is free from overhangs or excess and strikes
white gold rotor. The rotor’s consistency is due to the flat silicon
the perfect balance between complexity and comfort.
balance spring.
ON STAGE
hours and minutes to be excentered, and features a retrograde
The spotlight shines on the complication, which allows the The Project Z14 dial functions as a performance space, telling
second. After 30 seconds, the red seconds hand instantly returns,
a tale about watchmaking with extraordinary visual support.
due to a system with a snail-shaped cam and return spring.
Technical, artistic and structural principles work in harmony
The mechanics of this retrograde second are visible behind its
to create the unique identity of this timepiece, which features
counter. The color blue, a brand color, also appears on the rubber
strong colors and finishes, as well as shapes, angles and depth.
bracelet, which is structured like a textile bracelet.
Harry Winston blue is used for the hands and indexes located in the excentered counter at noon and for the seconds arch at 120 degrees, graduated from 0 to 30 seconds. Red is used for the
A GAME OF ILLUSIONS Project Z14 catches the eye, with trickery and amusement.
seconds hand and gray dominates the remainder of the dial, as
The overlapping segments, arcs and colors have both a technical
black accents emphasize the dynamic details and levels. Black
and an aesthetic mission. By relentlessly pushing the logic of
appears in the grid of the excentered dial, which is revealed in
excenteredness and levels even further, Harry Winston reaches
a new light. The fresh design features horizontal and vertical
new heights with Project Z14.
segments that work together to create a linear picture.
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HUBLOT FADI JAMIL
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP On 13 September 2020, we’ll be celebrating Scuderia Ferrari 1000th Grand Prix launching the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP, a model available in two versions, each re-leased in a limited edition of 20 pieces.
I
n the year that the Formula 1 World Championship celebrates its seventieth anniversary, the weekend of 13 September will see Scuderia Ferrari take part in their 1000th Grand Prix. The celebration is set to take place on home soil, with the race held at the
Mugello circuit in Italy. Hublot celebrates Scuderia Ferrari as the only team to have taken part in every World Champi-onship Formula 1 race since it was established in 1950, a true leader in the world of motor sport. The collaboration between Hublot and Scuderia Ferrari dates back to 2011 - a strong collabo-ration both on a personal and technical level has led to the creation of a series of models that embody the constant quest for innovation, excellence and performance, values that unite the destiny of the two brands. A true Art of Fusion that continues today with the release of the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP. Available in two versions, the watch pays tribute to both the glorious history of Scuderia Ferrari and its role at the leading edge of advances in technology. These are released in two limited editions of 20 pieces: 20-20, to reflect the landmark year in which the brand is set to take part in their 1000th race.
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Project Z14 LIMITED EDITION to 300 pieces CASE : Zalium DIAMETER : 42.2 mm MOVEMENT : HW2202, Mechanical, automatic winding FUNCTIONS : Excentered hours and minutes, retrograde seconds DIAL: Architectural three-dimensional dial, blue transparent retrograde counter STRAP : Textile effect rubber, rubber base BUCKLE: Ardillon buckle made of Zalium with folding security clasp
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The first of the two limited editions honours the legend of the prancing horse and represents the brand’s heritage. Made from polished white gold, its 45 mm case bears the engraving
embossed black Schedoni leather with black top stitching on a black rubber base. Both are equipped with an Hublot Unico Manufacture
“Limited Edition x/20” on the back. It is delivered with two
movement - although engine would be more fitting here -
straps that are easily interchangeable thanks to Hublot’s
integrating a flyback chronograph with column wheel and
ingenious and exclusive patented One Click system. The first is
a power reserve of 72 hours. The mechanism can be admired
created using Pecari leather - like the leather gloves previously
through the crystal on the back of the case, which bears the logo
worn by drivers - with white top stitching, and lined with black
“1000 GP”.
rubber for greater sturdiness and comfort. The second is made
Each will be delivered in a presentation box fitted with a
from embossed black Schedoni leather with black top stitching,
rotor, a mechanical device that auto-matically winds the watch
on the same rubber base.
movement as it rotates. An outer case contains a pair of driving
The second edition represents the present and the future of Scuderia Ferrari. With a diameter of 45 mm, its case is created from carbon ceramic. This material is both incredibly hard and
gloves, one of which is signed by Charles Leclerc and the other by Sebastian Vettel, Scuderia Ferrari’s current drivers. Watch enthusiasts wanting to purchase the collection of both
extremely durable, and there is a reason for this: it is exactly
these models will receive a special presentation box, with a twin
the same as that used for the car brake discs. This cutting-
rotor, containing two travel pouches - one for each watch - as
edge technology was developed by Hublot jointly with Scuderia
well as pair of driving gloves also signed by both drivers and
Ferrari. This second version is fitted with a woven strap made
displayed under glass.
from SuperFabric® as well as a second leather strap made from
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STRATEGY DAVID CHOKRON
Chronode & Cyrus At the head of Chronode, Jean-François Mojon has participated in the design and production of dozens of watches that are regularly singled out for awards by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Cyrus holds a place of its own among his activities.
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How are Chronode and Cyrus connected ? The link has existed since 2011, by virtue of our shared financial partner. That means we’re connected but independent. Chronode has complete autonomy in terms of how we work with thirdparty clients, but we have a special relationship with Cyrus. How does your collaboration with Cyrus work ? We’re involved from the very beginning of the design and development process. We take responsibility for the whole product, meaning we work directly with the designers on the whole of the external casing of the watch. These are products that we don’t make every day ; they require specific solutions and have structural demands that we have to re-evaluate each time. We like a challenge, we thrive on the unknown, and this brand offers us that dynamic. There’s really nothing standard about it. It’s very rare to see a vertical tourbillon. How did that come about ? This is the first time we’ve put a vertical tourbillon in a central position, with a movement articulated entirely around it. Previous approaches have been to create an entirely vertical movement, or to put a vertical tourbillon on one side. By placing it in the center, it gives the watch a symmetry that is part of Cyrus’s identity. The brand already uses two crowns, positioned on either side of the case in the Klepcys collection, and here we also have retrograde hands on each side of the dial. What are the advantages of a vertical tourbillon ? The tourbillon was designed for pocket watches, which were worn in a vertical position. The tourbillon helped to average out the errors that occurred. When the tourbillon is flat, it no longer has any effect. In the case of a wristwatch, we noted that the typical position is more horizontal than vertical, so for it to make any sense the tourbillon ought to be in a vertical position. But these considerations of accuracy aren’t the only attraction of a tourbillon. A tourbillon is a symbol of horological mastery and, in this particular project, it represents an aesthetic goal. It spans the entire movement, it’s visible from all sides, and it gives volume to the domed crystal. Its position determines an entire aesthetic, a completely different approach. It has given us new possibilities for expression. Full interview available on worldtempus.com
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TEST BENCH CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ
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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph
L
ike many watch icons, the Laureato collection was created in the mid-1970s. The combination of polygons, sharp edges and circles epitomizes the aesthetic of this decade
and looks very much set to be an enduring emblem of timeless design. And while Girard-Perregaux offers highly distinctive and remarkably complementary collections, the Laureato collection is now clearly the commercial spearhead. We took a closer look at the “Absolute Chronograph” for you.
EXTERIOR : The collection is characterized by an octagonal bezel and this model measures 44mm in diameter and 14.65mm thick : very reasonable dimensions considering the functions it houses. The black PVD-treated titanium case contributes to the comfort of the watch while visually downplaying its size. The designers of this new model were clearly also concerned with ergonomics, since the chronograph pushers with their rectangular cross-section are slightly concave. While this detail is almost imperceptible from an aesthetic standpoint, it makes operating them much smoother and enhances the sense of precision when activating the functions. It is however the dial of this new chronograph that particularly appealed to us. Its gradient of ‘sunburst’ blue shades is beautifully controlled and features exceptional linearity merging seamlessly with the black of the surrounding case. Finally, the recessed mirror-polished hour markers and luminescent white hands contribute to the legibility one would expect from a watch providing such functions, while the date disk blends into the black dial circumference. The screw-down crown and caseback guarantee water resistance to 300m, thus ensuring enhanced sportiness and absolute credibility.
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MOVEMENT : The self-winding 3300-1058 movement is a chronograph version of a tried and trusted base caliber. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and features a 46-hour power reserve. Its 11 ½ dia meter reflects norms dating back 15 years or more. While one might have been tempted to pinpoint this as a flaw in this “Absolute Laureato”, it may in fact be its best asset, since this size guarantees an ergonomic feel reflecting the current return to more reasonable diameters. The 3300 caliber has moreover proven its worth and purchasers of such a watch will have no concerns regarding its reliability. Finally, its power reserve might seem outdated if this were not a self-winding movement.
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TESTS : There is no technological revolution on this watch, whether in terms of its ‘motorization’ or the materials used. Therein perhaps lies the intelligence of this chronograph, which entirely meets each criterion of its technical specifications. When on the wrist, ergonomics is one of the key assets of this chronograph and its integrated rubber strap is certainly the best we have ever been able to test in this material.
POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS 0H :
Rate (sec/day)
1.8
2.3
-1.6
0.7
4.2
2.5
0Hrs : Fully wound
Amplitude
291
288
255
264
275
251
24H
Rate (sec/day)
2.3
3.2
-0.6
1.3
5.1
3.4
24Hrs later
Amplitude
248
242
227
236
229
223
In terms of design, this chronograph compares favorably with the 1970s icons mentioned in the opening remarks of this test bench article. Its technical qualities and contemporary interpretation make it much more than a mere outsider on the watch market. In fact, it may be a forerunner, a model for the future. Given that its price is as reasonable as its ergonomics, it will doubtless appeal to those who care more about the quality of their watch than the social image it conveys. CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker
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Story MICHÈLE BRUNNER
Chopard
An eagle-eyed vision of the Alps
K
arl-Friedrich Scheufele’s passion for cars is well known, as reflected in the Chopard watch collection and in the brand’s partnership with the Mille Miglia
rally. But the Chopard Co-President also admits to another passion that is more discreet, more intimate, yet just as inspiring : the mountains, where he enjoys both hiking and skiing. It is naturally a part of the environment as a whole, of which the concern for conservation dictates Chopard’s ethical approach to sustainable luxury.
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This year, the mountain is making its mark on the new Alpine Eagle collection, a range of watches with integrated case and bracelet available as models for both men and women. This is an update of a previous Chopard watch : the 1980 St. Moritz, inspired by the tastes of the alpine elite of the time, as well as Chopard’s first sports watch and first model in steel. But the Alpine Eagle is not just about launching a new collection. The eagle after which it is named is the main concern of the Eagle Wings Foundation, of which Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is a founding member, alongside photographer Nomi Baumgartl and falconer Jacques-Olivier Travers. The foundation’s objective is twofold : to document the impact of global warming on the Alps and to work towards the conservation and reintroduction of the white-tailed eagle, the largest of the European eagles, which has disappeared from the Alps. This original program aims to demonstrate that it is not too late to act on an ecosystem on which humans are inflicting such damage ; and that wildlife species are able to adapt to current conditions, provided that their destruction is stopped. “Eagle Wings is a visual dialogue between the viewpoint of the eagle, of humankind in general and of scientists in particular.” In concrete terms, Victor, a nine-year-old whitetailed eagle, flew for five days across five alpine countries in October 2019, equipped with a camera. His piercing gaze took in the melting glaciers and he brought back pictures of the odyssey to share with humans. May they be deeply troubled by what they see and at last be galvanized into taking action !
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JET SET FADI JAMIL
Coco Bodu Hithi You’re a world away from the grip of the city. You are in your spiritual home
Bodu Hithi Island, in North Malé Atoll, is our beautiful Maldivian resort. The rhythm of life here is serene. The essential tropical mood stimulates and refreshes the senses. And the mystery of the House Reef meets the open elegance of pristine palm-fringed beaches. That the Malé International Airport is only 40 minutes away feels unreal.
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The Coco Bodu Hithi Resort in the Maldives reflects the Island’s character in its every dimension. Our Maldives resort is your chic retreat. Reconnect with yourself, your loved ones and the wonder of the natural world. Remind yourself what time out and travel should feel like. Breathe the clean, sea air. Meet the Hawksbill turtles. Witness the peaceful majesty of the native Nurse sharks. Explore the exotic colours of the reef’s inhabitants. Swim with Manta rays. Take a sunset cruise across calm waters. Sink your toes into the white sand and ease yourself into island life and its relaxing, dreamy pace. All of this is yours, at the Coco Bodu Hithi Maldives Resort. Coco Bodu Hithi, North Malé Atoll, Republic of Maldives Tel: +960 664 1122 / +960 664 6600 email: reservations@cococollection.com www.cococollection.com/en/bodu_hithi
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JET SET FADI JAMIL
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Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu
There is one simple promise realized at the Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu resort – that happiness is found in every moment Dhuni Kolhu lies in the stunning southern waters of the Baa Atoll. The 30-minute journey by seaplane from Malé International Airport gives guests a stunning start to their holiday – a bird’s eye view of the azure lagoons and curling atolls. It’s a taste of the natural reality that comes with your Maldives vacation. As you land, you are entering one of the world’s essential havens – a designated UNESCO biosphere reserve and home to incredible marine life and reefs.
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Coco Palm Resort in the Maldives is dedicated to making the most of its cherished island home. Our Dhuni Kolhu Resort embodies the Maldives as it should be: nourishing, charming, inspiring and enchanting. The style and feel are rustic yet luxurious, organic yet elegant. Traditional craft blends with the ease of contemporary comfort. This is a soulful Maldives vacation spot where the everyday stresses of life are left behind, and you can reconnect with nature, we call it barefoot luxury. Coco Collection Resorts, H. Moonlit Villa, 04th Floor, Medhuziyarai Magu, MalĂŠ 20079, Republic of Maldives. Tel: +960 660 0011 email: reservations@cococollection.com www.cococollection.com/en/palm_dk
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ZOOM FADI JAMIL
THE MUSÉE ATELIER AUDEMARS PIGUET
Opens to the Public LE BRASSUS, JUNE 25, 2020 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie
expand the brand’s historical premises and “illustrate the soul of
Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet to the public. The new
of the Board of Directors. The result was a spiral-shaped pavilion,
manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to open the museum designed by BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group) unifies
the original workshop, established by Audemars Piguet’s
founders in 1875, with a new all-glass structure, made up of two spirals that seamlessly integrate into the existing
landscape. The museum’s collection, which showcases some
300 timepieces, is displayed alongside two in-situ production workshops, creating a living museum. With a design
that marries tradition and innovation, the Musée Atelier
Audemars Piguet offers visitors a unique opportunity to delve into the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux and
reminiscent of the spring in a timepiece movement, entirely
supported by curved glass walls. The contemporary spiral flanks
the original workshop where the Audemars Piguet story began in
1875 and where an earlier version of the museum was housed from 1992 to 2019. The vernacular architecture of the historical building has been fully recovered based on a thorough study of archival materials. The concept of the Musée Atelier thus fuses the
tradition and forward-thinking ethos which exists at the heart of Audemars Piguet.
As Bjarke Ingels, BIG’s Founder and Creative Director
explore how the brand’s timepieces, crafted in Le Brassus,
explains, “Unlike most machines and most buildings today
In 2014, BIG’s design for the new museum was selected by
hardware and the software, for the Musée Atelier Audemars
have been raised around the world.
Audemars Piguet following an architectural competition to
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that have a disconnect between the body and the mind, the Piguet we have attempted to completely integrate the
geometry and the performance, the form and the function,
mechanical movements, give life and rhythm to various aspects
symbiotic whole.”
building, the rich collection of watches illuminates the history
the space and the structure, the interior and the exterior in a The elaborate architectural project was executed by teams of
experts and artisans including CCHE, the local architecture firm who built the structure—the first of its kind at such altitude. The scenography imagined by internationally renowned
ATELIER BRÜCKNER was constructed as a musical score,
creating a dynamic experience for visitors. Interludes, including automata, kinetic installations and mock-ups of intricate
of horological technique and design. As viewers circle the
of Audemars Piguet and of watchmaking in the valley. The visit culminates at the centre of the spiral with the display of some of the Manufacture’s most complicated watches. The spiral
also includes two workshops, where Haute Joaillerie creations and Grandes Complications are crafted. Visitors can observe watchmakers working within the curved glass walls of the museum and experience their expertise first-hand.
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Sébastian Vivas, Audemars Piguet’s Heritage and
Museum Director explains, “The Musée Atelier honours
the Audemars and Piguet families who were part of a very long tradition of watchmaking. The new space, together with the traditional workshop, make for the perfect
meeting place where visitors can engage with us and our watchmakers, whilst learning about the brand and the history of watchmaking in the region.”
The spiral pavilion also speaks to BIG’s, CCHE’s and
Audemars Piguet’s shared engagement in environmental sustainability. The contemporary structure fulfils the
latest Swiss Minergie® requirements in terms of energy efficiency and high quality construction. The Musée
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Atelier also houses the Audemars Piguet Foundation,
which has contributed to forest conservation through
environmental protection and youth awareness-raising programmes since 1992.
Furthering the company’s cultural and artistic
engagement, the MusĂŠe Atelier is also a fitting exhibition venue for a selection of artworks created by contemporary artists, commissioned by Audemars Piguet. For the
opening of the museum, Audemars Piguet is exhibiting commissioned artworks lent by longstanding friends of
the brand Dan Holdsworth, Quayola and Alexandre Joly,
which reflect the creative exchange the Manufacture has fostered between Haute Horlogerie and contemporary art since 2012.
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JA M E S B O N D ’ S CHOICE SEAMASTER DIVER 300M 007 EDITION
More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455