GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 29 - LADIES - DECEMBER 2019

JEWELLERY Valerie Messika rocks!

ICONIC Cartier: The Baignoire

TWIST by CHARRIOL

Play with time

GMT ME No 29 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019

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9 771660 110613

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES THE DUBAI MALL | MALL OF THE EMIRATES

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MARIE-OLGA watch collection

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Let us curate your moments to capture, forever.

Let us curate your moments to capture, forever.

Allow us to make your wedding day a magical memory and a milestone to cherish for years to come. Whether it’s a wedding celebration at the hotel, an intimate engagement party in the comfort of your home, or a bridal shower at the venue of your choice, our Ladies and Gentlemen will ensure that the occasion is an elegant expression of individual love. Our seasoned Allow us to make your wedding day a magical memory and a milestone to cherish for years to come. Whether it’s a wedding culinary and outside catering team will take you on an exquisite culinary voyage by creating innovative wedding menus to celebration at the hotel, an intimate engagement party in the comfort of your home, or a bridal shower at the venue of your delight the most discerning palates and transform a meal into an unforgettable memory of your special day. choice, our Ladies and Gentlemen will ensure that the occasion is an elegant expression of individual love. Our seasoned To speakand to aoutside wedding planner, connect withyou us on on an +971 4 372 2628 or email difcweddings@ritzcarlton.com culinary catering team will take exquisite culinary voyage by creating innovative wedding menus to or visit ritzcarlton.com/difc delight the most discerning palates and transform a meal into an unforgettable memory of your special day.

To speak to a wedding planner, ©2019 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. connect with us on +971 4 372 2628 or email difcweddings@ritzcarlton.com or visit ritzcarlton.com/difc ©2019 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

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W E A R YO U R AT T I T U D E

WWW.D1MILANO.COM

EDITORIAL WINTER 2019

I

n mid-October the Foundation de la Haute Horlogie unveiled the new format of the SIHH, along with a new name we will all have to start getting used to said Mrs. Fabienne Lupo, President and CEO of the Foundation de la Haute Horlogie.

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogue has been renamed Watches & Wonders Geneva and it will be based around two main stands; the fair at the Palexpo exhibition centre, which is targeted at a professional audience and clients invited by the brands, and “ In the City” part, which is a watch festival in the heart of the city of Geneva, for the general public.

Furthermore, the public can still go to Palexpo if they make the reservation in advance and pay the entry fee which is 300 CHF. But the public will have access to all the services and hospitality on offer at the fair; including catering and and a new reception service specifically designed and organized for them and of course the idea is to accompany and guide these visitors with dedicated circuits that include several must-see points.

Mrs. Fabienne. Lupo added that the idea of a watch festival in the city talks about the future and about innovation, and what’s currently currently in R&D departments.

Of course it will also talk about heritage and open the doors of the manufactures and boutiques and equally the objective is to introduce the public to the watchmakers and their innovations to give them better understanding of what’s all about.

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

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GMT ME LADIES MAGAZINE NO29 2019

rjwatches.com RJXWATCHES

AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates, Mirdif City Center, Wai AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY Marina Mall, The Galleria Sowwah, Yas Mall

CONTENTS GMT LADIES WATCHES AND JEWELLERIES

LIFESTYLE 34 NEWS 42 HOT NEWS

41

72 FASHION WEEK

Long Live Nonconformists 80 ICONIC

Cartier The Baignoire 86 SAGA

Bvlgari Serpentine Seduction

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

90 SCENTS

“PAISLEY

Tiffany & Love Fragrances

PRÉCIEUX”

100 ESCAPADE

NECKLACE FROM

London More Precious Than Ever

THE “TREASURE OF RUBIES” COLLECTION

ART ART 70 JEWELLERY

Valerie Messika Rocks!

94 PHOTOSHOOT

62 COVER STORY

Twist by Charriol Play with time

87 SAGA

TECH INSIGHTS 62 COVER STORY

Twist by Charriol Play with time 64 Interview

Chanel: Rocking The Icon

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Serpentine seduction

CONTENTS GMT LADIES WATCHES AND JEWELLERIES

70 80

JEWELLERY

Valerie Messika Rocks!

CLOSE-UP OF 6 NEW RELEASES

80 CHANEL

Code beige for Code Coco 81 TAG HEUER

Green attitude 82 RICHARD MILLE

A clear case of dazzling technique 83 CHAUMET

Ring of Fire 84 KERBEDANZ

The Esperanza Classic sees life through rose-tinted glasses 85 MAURICE LACROIX

Automatically feminine

83 CHAUMET

Soleil de Feu

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81 TAG HEUER

Aquaracer Ladies Green Dial

CONTRIBUTORS

Under the guidance of LADY by GMT’s Editor-in-Chief Joy Corthésy, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and hence naturally international edition.

NAZANIN LANKARANI Écrire sur l’art m’a appris que la beauté des objets bien faits résulte de l’harmonie entre la forme, la fonction et la modernité.

Writing about art taught me that the beauty of well-made objects derives from the union of form, function and modernity.

SUZANNE WONG I’m closing in on a decade in watch journalism, but am still continually inspired by this industry and its incredible products.

YANNICK NARDIN My guilty pleasure : exploring the secret alchemy behind creative thinking. The emotional touch of an artisan and the beauty of the materials whisper sweet stories to me.

BRICE LECHEVALIER What a pleasure to create a new magazine each month (on watches or sailing) and to share our passions with a premium readership !

MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON Tick means time for an encounter; and tock the time devoted to writing. For 12 years, I have derived intense pleasure from telling intriguing watchmaking stories.

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We assemble every single watch twice.

Because perfection takes time.

For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we

movement parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and

craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.

polishing techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This as-

Thus, after the LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE has been assembled

sures long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal

for the first time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The

finishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae

CONTRIBUTORS SANDRA SCHAFFTER New to the world of watchmaking and jewelry. I’m enjoying discovering these fields featuring a blend of art, passion and discipline.

MARIANNE ESCHBACH I have spent my entire career in journalism and continue to be fascinated by how each day is never the same and is always filled with memorable meetings and experiences.

LAURENCE JENNI While the graphic design world is my metaphorical hobby-horse, spending time with my literal horse helps me achieve the right work-life balance.

MARIE LE BERRE When I discovered the world of watchmaking almost 25 years ago, I chose to make it my specialty and never regretted that choice.

It covers such a broad range !

JUSTINE DUPONT MARTIN For someone like me who’s permanently connected and on the lookout for the latest trends in fashion, selecting chic and current accessories for our readers was a real pleasure.

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SARA ALLERSTORFER Fashion and jewelry are to me what Yves is to Saint Laurent or bubbles to champagne. The same goes for my Karamell Kids Concept Store.

NEWS BRICE LECHEVALIER, JOY CORTHÉSY, MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

BVLGARI HAS A SPREE IN CAPRI This rocky Mediterranean island covered with greenery served as a setting for the launch of the incredible 2019 vintage of Bvlgari High Jewelry, named “Cinemagia” in honor of the fascinating world of filmmaking. This movie-like backdrop witnessed an impressive roster of spectacular creations as well as luminaries who turned out to view them, in a skillfully orchestrated ballet of VIP customers and selected media.

Notable guests included Eva Green, Uma Thurman, Isabella Ferrari, Princess Lilly of Wittgenstein, Chun Xia, Svetlana Khodchenkova, Koyuki, Anna Cleveland and Laetitia Casta, who took their seats at the large guest table under the starlight, as well as gracing the dance floor to the rhythms provided by DJ Graziano della Nebbia.

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TWIST, CLICK, AND GO !

At the crossroads of watchmaking and jewelry comes the latest creation for women by Marie Boutteçon, a watch and jewelry designer who is the creative co-founder of design studio Bug Me, along with her partner Etienne Ruffieux, Product Designer. With the modern woman in mind, Boutteçon presents a watch with interchangeable bezels : just twist and click and go from day to night, casual to dressy. The bezels feature detailed engraving work or different finishes, showing the endless possibilities available for any woman, any time.

A STORY IN LIGHT New on the scene, jewelry brand The Rayy has created an innovative collection of geometric rings: using technology developed at EPFL, each ring is structured so precisely that when light hits it at the right angle, it reflects a special message. You can choose to “sculpt” light by customizing the word or date on your ring so that each piece reflects a unique message.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 35

LIVING THE DOLCE VITA Inspired by the 1920s, Longines’ DolceVita collection has been a staple for the brand since its creation in 1997. New dial variations (including a stunning starry midnight blue iteration) are now joining the DolceVita family, as well as interchangeable straps in an array of colors – vivid orange, forest green, soft turquoise.

Whatever your fancy, this range has it covered.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

A FEW SECONDS WITH CHANEL Naomi Campbell, Vanessa Paradis, Carole Bouquet, Ali MacGraw, Anna Mouglalis… What’s the connection between these women ? Their stunning beauty ensuring spectacular screen presence, as well as their incredible elegance and iconic stature. Nine women, nine personalities to embody Chanel’s new J12 through nine short films featuring impeccable black and white photography. A dream cast telling the story of a second that changed their lives !

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SWISS LUXURY APARTMENTS GENEVA Are you looking for a comfortable apartment where everything is ready for you to move in?

A home away from home in the city center for your frequent visits to Geneva?

Or a more spacious alternative to your hotel room for a longer duration of stay?

You finally found it !

Experience the 24 luxuriously appointed apartments in the very heart of Geneva where modern furnishings and state of the art equipment meet the charm of a historical building. Enjoy added privacy along with personalized service of the experienced team on site and feel like you were in your own home.

This property was recognized with the World Travel Award for the second year in a row for its excellent facilities and quality of service.

Swiss Luxury Apartments SA Rue Philippe-Plantamour 6 & 8, 1201 Genève T +41 22 596 12 00 - F +41 22 596 12 01 info@swiss-luxury-apartments.ch www.swiss-luxury-apartments.ch

MILLE HITS THE TRACK Richard Mille has a knack for always getting things just right.

The latest example is Maria Vicente, who is joining the watchmaker’s family of partners. This 18-year-old athlete, who is setting records at lightning speed, is the new darling of Spanish athletics. A girl to follow…

But you’ll have to run fast.

SPEAK TO ME WITH PEARLS !

Van Cleef & Arpels and the Perlée collection is a great love story.

This instantly recognizable, joyful and precious range is interpreted this year through curvaceous rings and earrings. Four watches with secret covers, a necklace and interchangeable pendants round off this bold collection that is given an intriguing twist with small gold beads and colors designed to put a smile on every face.

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A RISING STAR Firmly convinced that new talent reinvigorates vision, De Grisogono has announced the first Artist in Residence inaugurating its Creativity in Residence program : Emmanuel Tarpin. Having gained experience at Van Cleef & Arpels and known as an up-and-coming talent in this field, Tarpin brings a fresh vision to De Grisogono’s bold style, as demonstrated in the unveiling of the six-piece high jewelry Prologue collection.

RUBY RED Some of the most sought-after rubies in the world come from Myanmar and feature a shade of red so distinctive that it is known as “pigeon’s blood”. To highlight one of its most precious pieces, Gübelin has created the “Eyes of Burma”, a 2.60-carat ruby surrounded by sapphires, designed to evoke the eye of a peacock’s feather and which can be as either a ring or a pendant.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 39

FASHION WEEK MARIANNE ESCHBACH

LONG LIVE NONCONFORMISTS GUCCI “LOOK 32” READY-TO-WEAR FALL-WINTER COLLECTION 2019/20

GUCCI TIGER HEAD NECKLACE FROM THE “HORTUS DELICIARUM” HAUTE JOAILLERIE COLLECTION

LYDIA COURTEILLE PARIS CUFF FROM THE “MARIE ANTOINETTE, THE DARK SIDE” COLLECTION

Without people who deviate from the norm, life, and especially fashion, would only be half as exciting. It takes nonconformists to move things forward. The best example is Gucci designer Alessandro Michele, whose fashion successfully challenges the status quo. In the same way that Haute Joaillerie celebrates unfettered, boundless creativity.

BOUCHERON WHITE GOLD “WLADIMIR I” RING FROM THE “PARIS VU DU 26” HAUTE JOAILLIERE COLLECTION

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CHRISTIAN DIOR “LOOK 62” READY-TO-WEAR FALL-WINTER COLLECTION 2019/20

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS “PAISLEY PRÉCIEUX” NECKLACE FROM THE “TREASURE OF RUBIES” COLLECTION

DIOR JEWELRY “ROUGE VERMILLON” EARRINGS

SIMPLY RED !

In color therapy, red stimulates vitality. On an emotional level, the color symbolizes warmth or at times anger, as well as sensuality and love. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri has developed her Teddy Girls-inspired collection in black, blue, green and red. Jewelry appliqués on the shoes accentuate the strong looks. And why not add some fiery rubies to the mix ?

CHOPARD “MAGICAL SETTING CLUSTER” RING

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Cartier celebrates luxury

and Art in Abu Dhabi DUBAI, 3 NOVEMBER 2019 Cartier is proud to announce its

luxury houses and 16 cultural institutions, Cartier will take

participation in a series of events celebrating Art and luxury in

part in Flânerie Colbert Abu Dhabi and its series of events

Abu Dhabi this November, with the showcase of six beautiful

celebrating French luxury in the 21st century, organised in

creations in the Louvre’s 10,000 Years of Luxury exhibition as

conjunction with 10,000 Years of Luxury. In this context,

main highlight.

Cartier will offer its clients unique animations at The Galleria

Set to open on 30 October, 10,000 Years of Luxury will

dress the boutique’s windows, Cartier will tell the story of its

various ways luxury has been interpreted by diverse cultures

relationship with the Arts, wildlife as source of inspiration

throughout history. Exhibits from the Maison’s collection,

and its long-lasting ties with the Middle East, among others.

on view till 18 February 2020, will include an Art Deco style

Visitors to the boutique will also enjoy an interactive library

diamond tiara from 1914, a gold and rose-cut diamonds mys-

display about the Maison’s savoir-faire and craftsmanship

tery clock from the 1920s, as well as a panther vanity case from

traditions. At the House of Artisans, Cartier will present three

1928 in black enamel, em-eralds and rubies.

films that highlight some of the Maison’s inspirations—

Louvre Abu Dhabi’s exhibition will also host the UAE

flowers, Etruscan granulation and flames.

premiere of Cartier’s olfactory art installation USO (Unidentified

“Building cultural bridges is at the core of Cartier’s values,

Scented Object) - The Perfumed Cloud. Imagined by the Maison’s

which is why participating in this series of events is close to

in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent in collaboration with

our hearts,” said Sophie Doireau, Managing Director Cartier

Transsolar Klima En-gineering, USO – The Perfumed Cloud is an

UAE and India. “The showcase at Louvre Abu Dhabi, as well

immersive sensory journey, during which visi-tors are invited

as our dedicated local events, highlight the timelessness of

to enter a transparent glass cube resting on water, and climb

Cartier’s creations, while also shedding light on the Maison’s

a spiral stair-case that leads above a floating cloud where the

ever-evolving spirit of innovation.”

perfume can be smelled. Launched in 2017 at Palais de Tokyo

Cartier’s celebration of Art and luxury in Abu Dhabi also

in Paris, USO – The Perfumed Cloud was inspired by L’Envol de

underlines its special relationship with and support of the

Cartier, created by Mathilde Laurent in 2016.

Arts—a long-standing source of inspiration for the Maison’s

As a member of Comite Colbert—a grouping of 84 French

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Al Maryah boutique. Using a special paper-cut technique to

feature 350 extraordinary objects that demonstrate the

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

crea-tions.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

The SeaQ by Glashütte Original a rigorous set of tests

IN SPRING OF THIS YEAR GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL launched the SeaQ in a new collection . Inspired by the historic Glashütte diver’s

Determination of resistance at under- and overpressure To start with, the SeaQ is exposed to an underpressure of

watch, the debut model diver’s watch from 1969, Spezimatic Typ

-0.2 bar. This simulates use of the watch at high altitudes (in

RP TS 200, the SeaQ unites history andmodernity in a fascinating

the mountains or in an airplane). The watch is then exposed to

manner. One of the remarkable features of the new diver’s watch

an overpressure (as at great depths underwater) of 125%. This

- the first models are already in the hands of authorised dealers

corresponds with 20-bar watches to a value of 25 bar, and with

is its intensive testing for conformance with German as well as

30-bar watches to a value of 37.5 bar.

international quality standards.

A diver’s life can depend on the flawless fuctioning of his watch.

Measurement of air mass flow rate

As a consequence, for Glashütte Original’s design engineers and

A special device is used to generate an air overpressure of 2

watchmakers the fundamental objective in developing the SeaQ

bar around the watch. A measurement is taken automatically to

was to ensure maximum reliability. Every single watch is tested

determine how much air enters the watch. The measurement is

and analysed in-house for conformance with DIN 8306 and ISO

accurate to 5 millionths of a gram.

6425 standards in order to ensure the robustness of the individual functional elem ents. In the process, each SeaQ watch is tested for water resistance, air tightness at over- and underpressure, shock resistance, resistance to salt-water corrosion and many other criteria.

SeaQ versions and delivery The SeaQ is available in two versions: as the SeaQ in a limited edition and an unlimited version (Calibre 39-11), and as the SeaQ Panorama Date (Calibre 36-13). It goes without saying that the

OVERVIEW OF THE MOST IMPORTANT TESTS

promise of quality that is part and parcel of the award-winning

Test for moisture in the watch

Calibre 36 is also kept by the SeaQ Panorama Date. This means not

The SeaQ is first heated for 30 minutes to 40-45°C and then covered with a cold wet piece of felt. If there is any moisture in the watch, it

watches, but that it must also undergo the same demanding

would appear at this point as condensed water on the inside surface of

in-house 24-day test. An individual certificate documents each

the glass. If this is not the case, the watch is in conformance with the

watch’s successful completion of the test.

relevant standard and enters the testing phase.

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only that it meets the stringent DIN and ISO standards for diver’s

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Selena Gomez wears Messika in New York

SELENA GOMEZ wore Messika Paris jewelry while promoting her new music in New York.

She combined the Move Romane XL hoop earrings and the High Jewelry Toi & Moi ring with two pear diamonds of 17 and 7 carats.

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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Panerai

Luminor Due Perpetuating a traditional aesthetic signature by projecting it into the spirit of today. Maintaining creativity as it takes a new approach. In keeping with the genetics of the Luminor Due family, Panerai remains unconventional in its attitude and its predisposition.

DUBAI, OCTOBER 2019 - In the perpetual pursuit of perfection,

automatic movements produced at the Panerai Manufacture

that of the Luminor Due is reflected in the careful refinement

in Neuchâtel. It is the first Panerai automatic watch of this

of the movement. The Manufacture movement is strictly

diameter to have both a date display and a power reserve of three

mechanical, rigorously following Panerai’s demanding

days, a fundamental solution it shares with the Luminor Due –

specifications, but from now on it will exclusively have automatic

38 mm (PAM1043 – PAM1045) and the Luminor Due – 42 mm

winding. This requirement is dictated by practical considerations,

(PAM00927 – PAM1046).

the need to reconcile the watch’s physical and aesthetic design

watches are supplied with interchangeable straps equipped with

collection.

the Quick Release system. They are water-resistant to 3 bar (a

This was the reason behind the introduction of the new P.900 Calibre with its thickness of 4.2 mm, one of the thinnest

48

Genetically predisposed to change, these new Luminor Due

with the challenge of dimensions, the main characteristic of the

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

depth of about 30 metres).

The NEW FRAGRANCE for HER

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Van Cleef & Arpels Love stories

LOVE HAS INSPIRED THE MAISON since its foundation, infusing the Poetry of Time with its rhythm and offering a vision of

Ever faithful to a poetic view of life, Van Cleef & Arpels instills

watchmaking imbued with dreams and emotions. To set hearts

a distinctive dimension into the art of watchmaking: that of

beating in unison, new creations celebrate tender feelings: from

dreams and emotions. A blend of inventiveness and fantasy,

the first warm flutters through to the intensity of long-awaited

the Maison’s creations interpret the measurement of time as

reunions. The Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch – a Van

an invitation to imagine, wander and revel in happiness. To

Cleef & Arpels icon since 2010 – is revealed in new versions,

express the poetry of each instant, the Maison draws from its

depicting the kiss in daytime, nighttime and seasonal variations.

own history and its emblematic sources of inspiration.

The Extraordinary Dials collection employs traditional craft

New tales of love and luck take their places alongside

virtuosity to bring the game of love to life, while High Jewelry

creations that evoke Van Cleef & Arpels’ heritage. Fairies

watches dazzlingly relate the stories of legendary couples. In

and ballerinas tick away the hours, while the rhythm of

homage to Aida and Radames, Ulysses and Penelope, or Tristan

nature meets that of the cosmos. Representing the various

and Iseult, eight secret watches cultivate the art of mystery –

watchmaking collections, each piece relates a moment of grace

with interlaced precious stones and subtly concealed dials. An ode

and enchantment.

to love, captured in all its evocative and awe-inspiring power.

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THE POETRY OF TIME

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

DEFI MILLENNIUM

A DISTINCT SENSE OF STYLE LIGHTWEIGHT. HIGH PERFORMANCE.

WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Harry Winston Emerald Collection Emerald Automatic 33mm & Emerald Quartz 33mm HARRY WINSTON expands the elegant Emerald collection with

Emerald collection now welcomes a larger, 33 mm case available

the incorporation of larger timepieces. The distinctive octagonal

in 18-karat white and rose gold. The bold octagonal architecture

case shape and unique dial were inspired by Mr. Winston’s

of the case is highlighted by beveled edges and a lustrous shine.

favorite diamond cut: the emerald cut. Contemporary yet

Like a faceted gemstone, the sloping sides on the dial add depth

classic, this stylish companion is available with an automatic or

and volume. Taking the emerald motif a step further, the classic

quartz movement.

gold Harry Winston logo at 12 o’clock is balanced by a beveled date window at 6 o’clock.

A FAMOUS CUT Mr. Winston, known as “The King of Diamonds” thanks to his unrivalled collection of historic gemstones, revolutionized

EMERALD AUTOMATIC The Emerald Automatic timepieces offer the hours, minutes,

the American jewelry scene with his contemporary approach to

seconds and date, and are presented in two colorways; rose gold

cutting and setting precious stones. Freeing gems from old-

with a silver opaline with sunray satin-brushed finish and white

fashioned, cumbersome metal settings and often re-cutting them,

gold with a gradient blue hue that darkens toward the edges.

he allowed their innate beauty to shine in minimalist mountings.

Another distinguishing feature of the Emerald Automatic is the chapter ring for enhanced precision. In keeping with its elegant

LARGER CASE SIZE Previously featuring only petite, very feminine frames, the

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nature, the timepiece features hour markers that are crafted in either rose or white gold, faceted and applied to the dial.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Vhernier’s Animal Brooches when Nature becomes Art

SMALL AND ASTONISHING WORKS OF ART, the animal brooches

kogolong and agate are just some of the colourful gemstones

by Vhernier originate from the wonders of nature, reinvented in

Vhernier uses for its animal brooches, selecting only the most

the form of jewels.

beautiful ones and always natural, which is why one never looks

The shape is a re-interpretation of reality. Each piece is unique, a real sculpture capturing the essence of the animal it represents.

The sparkling Granchio (crab), for example, looks alive and ready

adapt harmoniously to the jewels’ design.

The brooches are a shining example of Vhernier’s ‘Trasparenze’

to twitch; with its claws lined in pavé diamonds and the Bruco

technique. A procedure by which beautiful rock crystal

(caterpillar) rolls with gentle and harmonious movements.

are superimposed over opaque stones, illuminating them

The point of departure is always that of beautiful stones, hand sculpted one by one. Jade, cornelian, lapis lazuli, turquoise,

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like the other. They are cut starting from the raw stone, so they

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dramatically.

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Fendi Timepieces

Watch Collections Second Semester 2019 FENDI TIMEPIECES presents new creations to complement

addition to the Fendi My Way Collection. The shape of its

the iconic and signature collections and celebrate innovation

case is strong yet pure, modern yet classic. The Fendi My Way

in design and material combinations. Infused with daring

tonneau-shaped timepiece embodies the aesthetic codes of the

creativity, the collections blend new shapes and materials with

signature collection featuring either precious diamonds or an

strong identity.

iconic FF logo pattern on the bezel. The watch is fitted with a

The Fendi My Way Collection pays homage to the FENDI’s

The new edition maintains the unique feature, the Glamy, the

by the Glamy, the removable fox fur collar, the timepiece never

removable fox fur collar, accessorizing the timepiece for an

fails to impress. The Collection explores

added glamour.

FENDI MY WAY TONNEAU Stylishly structured, the Fendi My Way Tonneau is a new

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bangle bracelet elegantly embracing the wrist or a leather strap.

heritage, distinguished by its signature design. Accompanied

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

FOR THE JOURNEY YOU’RE ON

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES . SAUDI ARABIA . KUWAIT . JORDAN . LEBANON TUMI.COM

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Tag Heuer launches

First Ever Emerald Green Dial Aquaracer (for men & women) in the UAE INSPIRED BY the mesmerising blue and green shades of the

Both watches are crafted from stainless steel and presented

ocean, the Swiss watchmaker has created two green-dialled

on stainless-steel bracelets. At the heart of the 43 mm model is

Aquaracer models that offer sporty functionality on any terrain.

the Calibre 5 Automatic movement, while the 32 mm model is

The stylish timepieces for men and women are distinguished

powered by a quartz movement.

by their everyday versatility and dive-ready technology. Ideal for an individual or purchased together as couple’s watches, these modern Aquaracer models invite the wearers to live the good

READY TO DIVE These two Aquaracer timepieces are as robust as they are

life – whether that’s cruising on the waves or exploring the world

stylish. Prepared for experiences and sporty activities on

below the surface.

any terrain, they are particularly well-suited for underwater exploration. They are both equipped with the six standard

GO FOR GREEN The 43 mm Aquaracer has a stunning green dial that creates

resistance to 300 metres (30 bar), a unidirectional rotating bezel,

an eye-catching light display with its sunray effect. The design

a screw-down crown, luminescent hands and markers, a double

of the horizontal lines that run across the dial resembles the

security clasp, and a sapphire crystal.

wooden docks where sailboats are moored. There is a date

Elegant, sophisticated and bold, these new additions to

window at 3 o’clock on the dial, and the numerals on the bezel

TAG Heuer’s historic Aquaracer collection are a contemporary

are filled in with black lacquer, as is the triangle marker at 12

interpretation of the water-resistant timepieces the watchmaker

o’clock. This model’s smaller 32 mm counterpart features the

has developed throughout its history. With their comfortable

same regal sunray green dial, but, instead of horizontal lines,

bracelets and timeless designs, the precise and reliable Aquaracer

it is decorated with elegant diamond hour markers. There is a

models are prepared to accompany watch aficionados wherever

date window at 3 o’clock on the dial and a triangle marker at 12

their experiences take them.

o’clock on the bezel for optimal readability.

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diving features of all models in the Aquaracer collection: water

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards

O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on

Photography: Karine Bauzin

www.fine-watch-club.com

HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

The New Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase & Date for Ladies The Spirit of Formal Elegance The Montblanc Star Legacy product line takes its inspiration from Minerva’s heritage and the company’s pocket watches that

contemporary yet classic aesthetic.

The Montblanc Star Legacy ladies timepieces are available with

were made during the late 19th century and early 20th century.

colourful Sfumato alligator straps that come from the Richemont

These timepieces were the height of innovation for the time as they

Pelletteria. “Sfumato” is the Italian word for “smokey” or “blurred”

featured a patented crown system, leading the company to an early

and refers to a process that achieves a delicate graduation

and immediate global success.

between colours by blending areas into one another through the

In the spirit of formal elegance, the Montblanc Star Legacy timepieces showcase classic design codes such as round, pebble-

superimposition of many layers of thin paint. When applied to the treatment of leather, it gives each strap an elegant patina.

shaped cases; horns with steps on the side; onion-shaped crowns

The Star Legacy timepieces continue the journey of more than

with the recognisable Montblanc emblem, and eye-catching dials

160 years of Minerva heritage through the spirit of formal elegance.

featuring the exploding star guilloché pattern.

With various sizes, elegant diamond-set dials and a large choice of

The dial of the Star Legacy ladies’ timepieces features the Maison’s exploding star guilloché pattern in the centre, along with an elegant and distinctive diamond ring at 6 o’clock that encircles

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the dial also features elegant leaf-shaped hands, contributing to a

distinctive straps, this line is the ideal way for the female watch connoisseur to express her own personal style.

This new Star Legacy Moonphase & Date comes in a 36-mm

the date counter. Further aesthetic details include a railway minute

stainless-steel case with a silvery-white dial enhanced by black

track, which is of particular note as it features dots instead of lines

rhodium-coated, Arabic numerals, indexes and leaf-shaped hands.

(a rare twist found in only a few models from the late 19th century

It is fitted with a Sfumato alligator strap from the Richemont

or the beginning of the 20th century) and a refined filet sauté

Pelletteria in varying shades of grey and is powered by an automatic

guilloché pattern outlining the dial. Completing the overall design,

movement, the Calibre MB24.08.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

LE CIRQUE: The greatest culinary show on earth.

A timeless classic originating from New York, experience Le Cirque's famed French cuisine, with a twist of Italian flair, at the sleek and elevated setting of Dubai.

The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC For restaurant reservations, email difcrestaurants@ritzcarlton.com or call +971 4 372 2323

Cover Story FADI JAMIL

TWIST by Charriol Play with time with these elegantly designed jewelry watches

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F

eminine and enigmatic, Charriol’s Twist watch celebrates the secrets of feminine seduction. Adorning a woman’s wrist with its beguiling personality, it

draws the eye and transforms each gesture into a moment of grace. Twist adds a new dimension to a woman’s silhouette, imbuing it with mystery and unrivalled modernity.

Twist’s signature steel cable bracelet breaks with convention, wrapping its spectacular 35 cm length around the wrist twice in an utterly free, comfortable way.

The oval shape of case with its the lightly domed sapphire crystal is both atypical and vintage, affording the wearer a chic and edgy look.

The TWIST collection plays with and tricks the passage of

NEW VERSIONS OF THE TWIST OVER TIME Playful and elegant, the new TWIST watches play on the versatility of their steel, gold or bronze bracelets to renew a timeless collection that is quintessentially Charriol.

The ellipsis dials in white mother-of-pearl welcome the addition of 6 diamonds to the retro hour-markers responsible for the offbeat charm of these uniquely graceful timepieces.

Designed for trend-lovers who embody femininity, modernity and retro chic, these two models are firmly rooted in the spirit of our times!

time, offering a timeless esthetic.

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Interview VICTORIA TOWNSEND

CHANEL watch J12.1

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Nicolas Beau International Business Development Watch-Fine Jewelry, CHANEL

Arnaud Chastaingt Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio

ROCKING THE ICON Continuing Success, or How the Chanel J12 became the Chanel J12.1 November 7, 2019. Stop press. The j12.1 From Chanel was awarded the ladies’ watch prize by the Grand Prix D’horlogerie De Geneve – GPHG 2019. This is Chanel’s sixth GPHG award.

W

hen a luxury powerhouse like Chanel decides

“It’s a definite advantage, working in an independent, fam-

to modify a watch that created an overnight

ily-owned company” says Nicolas Beau. “It leaves us the pos-

sensation when it was launched 19 years ago,

sibility to explore on a long-term basis. The fact that we have

you can be sure it takes all the time it needs to do

no obligation to publish figures does not mean we do not need

the best things in the best possible ways. And so, it took…8 years.

results; it means we have time.”

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CHANEL THE WATCHMAKER

first “experience” with Chanel in fact took place in 2000, when

The new J12, named the J12.1 for the new exclusive movement

he arrived in Paris as a student of luxury design. “I learned

it houses, represents 8 years of reflection enhanced by a few

that Chanel was about to reveal a new creation, and when

acquisitions. In January 2019, Chanel announced its 20% stake

I discovered it in the pages of a magazine: the J12, with its

in the Swiss manufacture Kenissi, already maker of prestigious

black ceramic dress and perfect silhouette, I fell in love with

automatic movements for Chanel, Tudor and Breitling. Adding

it! I had never, until then, thought about designing watches,

this to its existing shares in Bell & Ross, Romain Gauthier, and

and this was a revelation for me. In 2003, I joined Cartier as

F. P. Journe reinforces Chanel’s positions as a major actor in

a young watch designer. That same year, the white ceramic

the world of watchmaking and staunch defender of traditional

version of J12 was launched; I was fascinated by Chanel and

methods and ‘savoir-faire’. From the making of movements

the revolution it was creating. The “authority” of the J12

to the crafting of rare ‘métiers d’art’, all of this acquired

design, the innovative advertising that presented the watch as

expertise complements the Chanel manufacture G&F Châtelain,

a beautiful object, the androgynous aspect - 38 mm and ceramic

purchased in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland in 1993. Here,

for ladies, the black and white – all of these ingredients were

watch bracelets and cases are made for Chanel and outside

shaking up the watch world that I sometimes found a bit too

brands, haute horlogerie movements are produced in small

conservative.”

series, precious stones are set, and even in-house ceramic is produced.

ROCKING THE ICON: THE EVOLUTION After ten years at Cartier, Chastaingt was in charge of the

THE REVOLUTION

Paris studio for the creation of traditional and high jewellery

Nicolas Beau joined Chanel 17 years ago, just two years after the

watches. There was only one House for which he was willing to

launch in 2000 of the original J12 created by the then Artistic

leave: Chanel.

Director of the House, the late Jacques Helleu.

And if Arnaud Chastaingt joined much later, in 2013, his

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“When I joined Chanel in 2013, I considered the J12 as my

muse. At first I refused to touch its design, out of respect for Jacques Helleu, but also because I needed time to understand it better. We made a deal, me and my “muse”, and that was to “Rock the Icon”. It was a long and difficult exercise – it’s easier to create something brand new rather than trying to change an existing model, and an icon at that! I finally decided to change everything without changing anything.” That involved nevertheless changing 70% of the components, some barely perceptible, with the new movement counting as just one of those components.

The process took four years (the total eight years of development includes the new automatic Calibre 12.1), involving what Chastaingt considers more a “surgical” act than one of pure creation.

THE J12 OF TODAY AND TOMORROW The metal ring that surrounds the dial is thinner, creating a more open dial. The narrowed bezel now has 40 rather than 30 notches, and when you turn it, has a tighter feel and a more affirmed sound. There’s a screw-down crown, which along with the cabochon, is slightly smaller.

Typography is slightly modified; numerals are now in ceramic to match the rest of the watch. Redesigned hour and minute hands now have the same width, the seconds hand and Super-LumiNova are revised, as are the bracelet and buckle.

The new movement is slightly thicker than the original. To accommodate it, the 38mm case has been slightly rounded to maintain the same smooth harmony as the original. Water resistance is 200 meters, like the original. The case back is now transparent sapphire crystal.

The atypical round oscillating weight is in tungsten for weight. 70 hours of power reserve.

COSC certified. Guaranteed 5 years.

Presented at Baselworld 2019, the J12-1 is now available in stores worldwide.

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JEWELLERY VICTORIA TOWNSEND

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Valerie Messika

rocks!

Valerie Messika was born into diamonds. She began working with her diamond trader father André Messika in 2000, accompanied him on his trips for four years to “learn the business”, and created Messika Paris in 2005.

H

er designs and stones range from high jewelry to more accessible pieces: her now signature ‘Move’ collection began with an understated bracelet and three sliding brilliant-cut diamonds.

This year, the ‘Desert Bloom’ Jewelry and High Jewelry collections, accompa-

nied by ‘Born to be Wild’ with diamonds set on wood and stone, stunned during their presentation at Baselworld 2019. Valerie Messika told us more, just a few days after receiving the Fashion Los Angeles Awards for Jewelry Design.

“I was so happy and honoured to receive this award. It’s organized by the “Daily Front Row”, and it was the first time they opened up to jewelry design. And they chose us! A French brand in the American market. It was doubly important for me because, from the start, I‘ve wanted to break the codes from traditional jewelry styles and create an attitude of fashion with diamonds.

Using stars to promote the name of Messika, especially in America where the brand ‘is still a baby’, helps. All the other guests there, many from the fashion and music industries, knew each other, and while cool, did not necessarily know ME. But they all know Gigi Hadid (Ed. note: Messika Ambassador and Collab partner in case you live on another planet) so it was a real achievement.”

Please tell us about the inspiration for your Desert Bloom Collections.

“I was in a plane, flying over the North American desert, thinking about my next High Jewelry collection, and looking for inspiration that would allow me to express my ‘rock attitude’. I have respect for other jewelry styles, but mine is to show a ‘wild side’, to present diamonds in a different way. This has been my obsession from the beginning.

I’m a very visual person, and after looking down onto the desert, I started having dreams about how a woman could embody this ‘wildness’, this desert with no boundaries, no limits.

And thanks to my Dad – he’s really cool about this - I don’t have to think about the diamond supply, or how much money I will put into my pieces. It’s freedom -- a huge privilege.”

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Which piece of jewelry in general do you prefer to wear?

“I love earrings, because they’re close to the face and bring light to it. They also bring a touch of personality.”

You were one of the first designers to launch asymmetrical earrings..

“Thank you!! I was one of the very first. I remember how strangely people looked at them when I launched them. And then I started to do just one ear, which was also very special, and now it seems that everybody dreams of that. I love the fact that I had the chance and the possibility to sense the trend coming, and I hope I will continue to do that.”

So what comes next?

“We continue with this kind of attitude: that jewelry can be worn in different ways and on different parts of the body, and not always as expected. This comes actually from different cultures, and I would like people to understand that we do not pretend to invent anything. Many things have been done before us; it’s only a question of reinterpretation according to the period we live in. I think that women today want jewelry to be like fashion—they follow the trends, but want to express their personality, mixing and adapting it to their own style. With Messika jewelry – I am not imposing anything on them – they express their own femininity, their own personality, with the way they wear my jewelry. They choose and mix, customizing this way.”

Do you have a favourite collection?

“It’s very difficult to say, but I would have to choose ‘Move’, because I love the fact that people recognize the brand by the motif alone. And when a model is recognized without seeing the name, it has become iconic. It is our best seller.”

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GIRARD-PERREGAUX FADI JAMIL

Cat’s Eye Lotus and Cat’s Eye Arabian Jasmin, Time to bloom 74

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Flowers convey a whole range of feelings and naturally appeal to Girard-Perregaux, for which watchmaking is also a language of emotions.

Within the Cat’s Eye collection, exclusively dedicated to women, the Manufacture has created two precious and sensitive new creations graced with complementary Day/Night complications. The flowering of the lotus at dawn and that of the Arabian jasmine at nightfall form an infinite cycle, a space for contemplation and beauty that sets its own unique rhythm.

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ICONIC CARTIER FADI JAMIL

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The Baignoire Revealing beauty in all its guises: that is an enduring concept at Cartier, a filter through which all creation is viewed and an idea which gave rise to the Baignoire.

It all began with an unprecedented step taken to reveal the

bordered by gold gadroons. This constituted the first stage of a

creative power of watchmaking design hidden in ordinary forms.

creative process. Entirely reworked by Cartier’s design studio,

Cartier took this inspiration quite literally by initially designing

today the Baignoire watch asserts its own essence. Its exacting

an oval case in the 1910s that wouldlater be transcended by

finishes strike a balance between pure design and linear

several years of formal research. Transforming objects and

sophistication, paying homage to the cult 1958 model. Its design

embracing beauty are two key components of Cartier’s stylistic

remains unchanged, yet the piece itself has evolved to offer a

vocabulary and here this combined approach resulted in the birth

narrower bracelet and redesigned Roman numerals on a silvered

of the Baignoire watch.

sand-blasted background. The case back is seamlessly integrated into the case with water resistance up to 30 m offering full

A cult form The evocatively named Baignoire is a cult Cartier object. The

conformance with modern quality standards Baignoire watch continues this aesthetic heritage by revealing

story began in 1912, when Louis Cartier took the traditional

a more dazzling presence than ever before as a graphic and

round watch shape and elongated it. His stylistic research

sensual yellow-gold oval that adorns the wrist. On the white-gold

culminated in two straight, parallel lines joined by two curves,

version, the staggered diamond setting continues along the width

which formed the shape of a bathtub (baignoire in French)

of the gadroons to reach the case back. Although invisible, it

– hence its name aesthetics would continue to evolve until

represents the greatest refinement.

eventually adopting its familiar slightly curved oval shape in

˝Its design remains unchanged, yet the piece itself has evolved˝

the late 1950s, its dial stamped with Roman or Arabic numerals

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French Chic Baignoire watch is a signature watch for women who have

Swinging London Style The 1960s marked a second highlight in the history of the

their sights set high, who forsake trends and fashions and choose

Baignoire watch. Swaying to the beat of “Swinging London”,

this piece for its timeless French Chic.

the Baignoire Allongée saw the light of day in the workshops of Cartier London. The Baignoire Allongée was an oversized watch

Cultured, Informed, Unique It speaks to cultured women blessed with great taste such as Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider and Jeanne Moreau – women who are only concerned with freedom and wit, in beautiful objects and life in general.

that stretched across women’s wrists, combining excessive chic with supreme simplicity. This definitive watch exudes style and character while hugging the contours of the wrist.

The Baignoire Allongée watch marks a third chapter in this incredible story. Like a fixation, the Baignoire watch brings forth new desires, such as the yearning to give its exuberant elegance

Style Legends The Baignoire watch is worn by women in the know, who embrace it for its obvious style and make it their own.

texture and relief. Adding substance and texture to this extraordinary elegance as daring design creates an extravagant bezel. Sculpted gold is worked into studs stylishly adopted into the shape of the clou de Paris and taken from Cartier’s jewellery repertoire.

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FOCUS CHANEL MARIE LE BERRE

Code Coco beige gold CASE : beige gold, beige gold bezel-clasp set

with diamonds, water-resistant to 30m DIMENSIONS : 38.1 x 21.50mm MOVEMENT : highprecision quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : diamonds, beige gold inner bezel rings and hands BRACELET : beige gold

Code beige for

Code Coco

Alongside black and white, beige completes Chanel’s emblematic trio of colors. It represents a particularly elegant shade of gold, obtained thanks to an exclusive alloy. In 2019, two years after its launch on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the company’s entry into the watchmaking world, it is in turn adopted by the Code Coco model. The most “coded” of Chanel’s watch creations showcases beige gold on the broad scale enabled by its expansive design. Beige gold for the case. Beige gold on both dials, as well as the inner bezel rings and hands. Beige gold for the quilted-pattern bracelet resembling the leather of the 2.55 bag created in February 1955 by Mademoiselle Chanel. Beige gold for the bezel-clasp that slides around the dials with a smooth click. And finally, beige gold for the spring bar, itself borrowed from the 2.55, which is placed horizontally or vertically to reveal or hide the hours. The quintessentially Chanel watch is lit up by 52 diamonds gracing the bezel and 152 – including one featuring a princess cut – adorning the dials.

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FOCUS TAG HEUER MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Aquaracer Ladies Green Dial CASE : steel, water-resistant to 300m DIAMETER : 32mm MOVEMENT : quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds,

date DIAL : sunburst green, 11 diamond hour-markers, hours and minutes hands coated with Super-LumiNova® BRACELET : steel

Green

attitude It is definitely the color of the moment. We think green, we dress green, we eat green. TAG Heuer has not escaped this “green power” breaker wave which it is skillfully surfing with this über-trendy version of the Aquaracer Ladies Green Dial. Its best features ? A new sunburst green dial punctuated by eleven diamond hour-markers and a 12-sided bezel adorned with luminous studs. In terms of functionality, the Aquaracer Ladies ensures maximum readability of its indications by means the Super-LumiNova®-coated hands, capable of lighting up the darkness of the abyss even at a depth of 300 meters. What’s more, the aquatic temperament of this 32mm steel-cut sports watch also wreaks havoc in urban areas, serving as a supremely fashionable accessory by day or night, in everyday living or for evening wear. On the wrists of sportswomen and fashionistas alike, the Aquaracer Ladies Green Dial takes to every situation like a fish in water.

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FOCUS

RICHARD MILLE SUZANNE WONG

RM07-02 Gemset Sapphire CASE : Pink, green or blue sapphire

crystal, set with diamonds ; diamond-set crown FUNCTIONS : Hours and minutes MOVEMENT : Skeletonized gem-set inhouse automatic cal. CRMA5 ; 28,800vph (4Hz) ; 50 hours of power reserve STRAP : Rubber

A clear case of dazzling

technique

The Richard Mille RM 07-02 gemset Sapphire gains a sparkling halo of diamonds. In terms of creating watches that are equally strong on both sides of the gender divide, there is really only one company that does it spectacularly : Richard Mille. Even its generously gem-set pieces, such as the RM 51 Tourbillon Tiger and Dragon (most famously worn by Michelle Yeoh, Richard Mille ambassador and the most kick-ass Bond Girl ever to appear in the notoriously sexist film franchise), are resolutely dominant in appearance and mechanically sophisticated to boot. It’s no surprise, then, that the anchor model of Richard Mille’s feminine timepieces, the RM 07-02, has carried its fair share of innovations and technical breakthroughs. The full sapphire-crystal RM 07-02 with diamond-set bezel poses a particular technical challenge, as sapphire crystal is extremely hard, though non-malleable. Attempting to gem-set sapphire crystal as one does with gold would only result in the fracture of the sapphire crystal. The sapphire crystal case of the RM 07-02 is therefore honed from a block of sapphire crystal that has been chemically synthesized to create the jewel-bright colors that occur in natural sapphires. Channels to house the gems are milled into the material, with gold prongs then individually hand-inserted into the channels to grasp the stones.

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FOCUS CHAUMET JOY CORTHÉSY

Ring of Fire Soleil de Feu CASE : rose gold with brilliant-cut

diamonds DIMENSIONS : 40mm MOVEMENT : Manual-winding caliber CP12V-IX FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, tourbillon DIAL : hand-engraved gold with grand feu enamel dial BRACELET : orange alligator strap

Using the sky’s wide range of colors from day to night as inspiration for its latest highjewelry collection, Les Ciels de Chaumet, jewelry brand Chaumet is set on bringing dazzling colors to our lives. The Soleil de Feu series in particular, which uses brilliant-cut diamonds, red Burmese spinels, mandarin garnets and yellow sapphires to emulate the bright shades of burning sunsets, showcases the brand’s deftness in handling precious stones and gold. The collection features incredible high jewelry creations, including three flying tourbillon watches with grand feu enamel dials created by Anita Porchet, renowned enamel artist whose work include métiers d’art pieces for Patek Philippe. Her enamel work is unparalleled, especially in these models, with color gradients ranging from shades of yellow to fiery oranges and reds. The dial is beautifully decorated in swirls of rose gold with a millegrain motif on the tips and set with a yellow sapphire, pink spinels, mandarin garnets, rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds. Below the precious stones spins a flying tourbillon hand-painted to match rest of the dial – making it as vivid in animation as it is in color.

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FOCUS KERBEDANZ MARIE LE BERRE

The Esperanza Classic sees life through

rose-tinted glasses

Esperanza Classic Pink CASE : yellow gold set with pink

sapphires, sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : selfwinding KRB-03 caliber, 120h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : guilloché gold, translucent enamel, diamond hour-markers, gold logo and hands STRAP : white satin, exclusive gold clasp

As a specialist in rare watches, produced as one-offs or in limited series, Kerdebanz is accustomed to endowing its creations with powerful symbolic value. Esperanza refers to the myth of Pandora who released all the evils of humankind while preserving only hope for a better future, a source of light in the surrounding darkness. On the Esperanza Classic, this is expressed by waves undulating across the dial and spilling over in precious droplets onto the surface of the case. After the blue light of the sky and the sea in 2018, this year’s edition glows with the rosy light of happiness and tenderness : translucent pink enamel on the hand-engraved decoration of the dial and 10 carats of pink sapphires on the case. The dazzling picture is complemented by diamonds serving as hour-markers and gracefully outlining the lug contours. Equipped with a self-winding movement, the Esperanza Classic is distinguished – like most Kerbedanz watches – by a crown set between 1 and 2 o’clock.

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FOCUS MAURICE LACROIX MARIE LE BERRE

Aikon Automatic 35mm

CASE : steel, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 200m DIAMETER : 35mm MOVEMENT : self-winding ML115, 38h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : blue, Clous de Paris

hobnail pattern, diamond hour-markers, luminescent baton-type hour-markers and hands BRACELET : steel, butterfly clasp, easy-change system

Automatically

feminine

Launched in 2016 with quartz movements, Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon watch adopted self-winding movements in 2018. This year, the 35mm-diameter ladies’ model is also shifting to automatic mode. While the fact might not be immediately obvious, this dainty Aikon is not just a smaller version of an existing model. The case retains all the brand’s signature sporting chic appeal, including taut lines and rider-tabs on the bezel, while displaying subtly feminized features. On a more instantly visible level, the new Aikon Automatic is distinguished by dials set with eight diamond hour-markers.

The new model is available in four versions aimed at modern women who appreciate the prestige of mechanical horology : steel with a blue Clous de Paris dial ; steel with a black motherof-pearl dial ; steel with a white mother-of-pearl dial ; and twotone with a white mother-of-pearl dial. They were unveiled at last July’s Paris Fashion Week and in the presence of the brand’s new ambassador, the designer Adeline Ziliox.

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SAGA NAZANIN LANKARANI

Serpentine

seduction Inspired by an age-old symbol that is the stuff of legend Bvlgari’s Serpenti collections have long channeled the seductive powers of the snake into signature designs that capture the jeweler’s illimitable style.

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SERPENTI NECKLACE in gold with polychrome enamel, sapphire,

emeralds and diamonds, 1969

SERPENTI BRACELET-WATCH in gold with

polychrome enamel and emeralds, 1967

W

hile not the first to draw inspiration from the potent charms of the snake, Bvlgari’s ability to craft the creature’s sinuous symbolic strength into magnificent

adornments and timepieces has made it an unmistakable emblem of the Roman jeweler’s boundless creativity. In 1962, a photograph of a glamorous Elizabeth Taylor wearing a bejeweled Serpenti watch on the set of Cleopatra did much to propel Bvlgari’s design into the international spotlight.

The gold watch with a diamond-pavé serpent’s head – set with emerald eyes and a crest of marquise-shaped diamonds – seen in publicity stills on Ms. Taylor’s wrist was well-suited to her role as Queen of Egypt, adorned with snake-inspired accessories chosen to express Cleopatra’s sensuality and seductive powers. Fueled by the media frenzy over the actress’ scandalous love affair with Richard Burton, punctuated by frequent shopping trips to Bvlgari’s boutique, the serpent came to embody the inimitable glamour of Rome in the 1960s.

The snake’s multilayered, cross-cultural and mythologically-inspired symbolism have made it particularly expressive as a design motif for Bvlgari. The “Ouroboros” – a serpent eating its own tail – symbolized regeneration or the cycle of life and death in Ancient Egypt. In Rome, the snake was a guardian of temples, entwined on a rod wielded by Asclepius, god of healing ; or a predatory beast attacking the Trojan priest Laocoön and his two sons at the Vatican. 

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SERPENTI BRACELET-WATCH in gold with coral,

emeralds and diamonds, 1970

Bvlgari’s serpentine saga, however, had begun long before Cleopatra. The jeweler’s snake-shaped watches were introduced in the late 1940s, concurrently with the Tubogas technique that produced the coiled bracelets which became 1980s icons. Over the years, Bvlgari continued to reinvent its versatile “wrap-around” snake design with everSERPENTI TUBOGAS BRACELET-WATCH in gold with

emeralds and diamonds, 1968

more imaginative jewelry and watch creations in a variety of metal, stone and color combinations.

The Tubogas design inspired the Serpenti Seduttori, Bvlgari’s daily-wear watch with a slinky bracelet and slimmer snakehead, which is also its most “mainstream” Serpenti proposition to date.

Geometric iterations as seen in the Serpenti Incantati have toyed with abstraction while allowing Bvlgari to add a complication, as in its Tourbillon Lumière model.

Still, the most magnificent Serpenti timepieces are the bejeweled ones. The Serpenti Misteriosi Romani secret watch is poised to become a serious contender next November at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. A showcase for Bvlgari’s unique skill in marrying its watchmaking know-how with its jewelry-making heritage, this seductive snake is another dazzling incarnation of the perpetual rebirth of the Serpenti design.

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Paris 8ème

Grand Powers 52 rue François 1er - Paris 8ème Book your stay directly on hotelgrandpowersparis.com +33 (0)1 47 23 91 05

Grand Powers is a new 5 star boutique hotel, in the heart of the Paris Golden triangle. The hotel embodies the Parisian effortless chic and offers a vibrant modern touch combined with all luxury services, in a prime location.

SCENTS TIFFANY FADI JAMIL

Tiffany & Love Fragrances INTRODUCING THE NEW TIFFANY FRAGRANCES For more than 130 years, Tiffany & Co., the world’s premier jeweler, has crafted timeless designs that celebrate deep connections and love stories around the world. The brand continues to build upon its legacy of celebrating love and commitment with a new chapter in perfumery – introducing Tiffany & Love for Her and Tiffany & Love for Him.

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“As a brand, we’ve always celebrated the enduring power of love in all its forms,” says Reed Krakoff, chief artistic officer, Tiffany & Co. “Our new fragrances are a reflection of modern love and the authentic connections that reflect the strength, joy and promise we find in one another.”

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MODERN LOVE Tiffany & Love for Him and Tiffany & Love for Her honor the

cedarwood give way to a faceted and feminine scent.

many ways love bring two people together and the energy they

Tiffany & Love for Him is a citrusy, aromatic fragrance with a

create, sparking a feeling of happiness and optimism. The two

wood-infused base crafted by renowned perfumers Sophie Labbé

complementary fragrances are a tribute to these emotional

and Nicolas Beaulieu of IFF. An enticing composition from the

connections and the many ways love is defined and expressed.

first encounter, the scent structure begins with oils of ginger,

The Tiffany & Love fragrances are the brand’s first exploration

mandarin and cardamom. At the heart, juniper-cypress blend,

into the dual fragrance category, and the inaugural launch of a

an exclusive co-distillation process created for Tiffany, brings

men’s fragrance under the creative direction of Reed Krakoff.

modernity and singularity to the fragrance. The result is the

THE FRAGRANCES Both fragrances share a common hero, blue sequoia. This vibrant woody note anchors and unifies the two scents and is a homage to the iconic Tiffany Blue® hue.

Tiffany & Love for Her is a modern floral woody scent created by renowned perfumers Honorine Blanc and Marie Salamagne

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the hero blue sequoia at the base, together with vetiver and

aromatic freshness of juniper touched with warm resinous accents of cypress. At the dry-down, sandalwood, vetiver and the duo’s signature blue sequoia note complete this masterful composition.

THE BOTTLES Inspired by the brand’s legacy of extraordinary craftsmanship

of Firmenich, who collaborated to create this inspiring olfactive

and timeless design, Tiffany selected glass, cylindrical-shaped

journey. The fragrance opens with a burst of bright and

flacons to house the juice. Complementary but distinct, the

sparkling top notes, beginning with blue basil, a botanical

Tiffany & Love for Her and for Him bottles are each tinted a

ingredient developed exclusively for Tiffany, and paired with

different shade reminiscent of Tiffany Blue®. Both feature a

grapefruit for an aromatic crispness. The sweet floral bouquet

gleaming ampersand that echoes the iconic Tiffany & Co. logo

of neroli is at the heart and associated with a woody blend of

and acts as a symbol of connection. A silver plaque sits on the

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

shoulders of each bottle bearing the signature ingredients of

connects us and how it is personally defined, expressed and

each juice, while a Tiffany Blue® cap for Her and a contrasting

celebrated. Shot in black and white on the streets of New

black for Him, are embellished with a graphic T pattern. The

York City, photographer Cass Bird captures intimate moments

brand’s iconic Tiffany Blue Box®, which features the same T

between real couples with their hands entwined in gestures of

motif, has been reinterpreted to house the luxurious fragrances

love. To demonstrate this idea of commitment, acceptance and

and match its cylindrical bottle design.

togetherness, Tiffany elevates its ampersand symbol to signify

THE CAMPAIGN The Tiffany & Love campaign begins a new chapter in the

the personal connections that create a bond between people.

The luxury house chose music producer Mark Ronson and singer-songwriter King Princess, the first signing to his label

Tiffany fragrance story and depicts the romance, creativity

Zelig Records, to accompany the advertising campaign video

and energetic spirit of New York. Inspired by the vision of

with a remake of The Turtle’s song “Happy Together,” an ode

Reed Krakoff, the campaign illustrates the many ways love

to love.

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PHOTOSHOOT PHOTOGRAPHY : JOY CORTHÉSY STYLIST : MELANIE HEARNDEN (@JUSTMELANE) MAKE-UP : SEPHORA SUISSE MODEL : JUSTINE DUPONT-MARTIN LOCATION : LE MELROSE (WWW.LE-MELROSE.CH)

F

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rom floaty fabrics to cozy furs, “boho chic” is about effortless comfort in style. Set in Le Melrose, a lavish loft at the heart of Geneva that serves all your wellbeing needs, we marry its bohemian charm with haute joaillerie and watches.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

PIAGET FOR BUCHERER BLUE POSSESSION BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY

PEEKABOO COLLECTION (NECKLACE, CHOKER, EARRINGS, BRACELETS, RINGS) TWO-TONE WOOL CARDIGAN BY RABENS (LA MUSE BOUTIQUE) CREAM DRESS BY AUGUSTE (LA MUSE BOUTIQUE) PRODUCTS TATA HARPER (LE MELROSE)

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PATEK PHILIPPE TWENTY~4 JOHNSON (NOA)

ROBE IMPRIMÉE ULLA

PATEK PHILLIPPE TWENTY~4 ULLA JOHNSON PRINT DRESS (NOA) 96

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

GRAFF SPIRAL (MONTRE, BRACELET, BAGUES ET BOUCLES D’OREILLES EN DIAMANT) CARDIGAN BLANC EN CACHEMIRE, LAINE ET SOIE ET BLOUSE BLANCHE EN ORGANZA

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

GRAFF SPIRAL (DIAMOND WATCH, BRACELET, RINGS AND EARRINGS) BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WHITE CASHMERE, WOOL AND SILK CARDIGAN ; WHITE ORGANZA SHIRT

CHOPARD

L’HEURE DU DIAMANT OVAL (MONTRE) ET COLLECTION HAPPY HEARTS (SAUTOIR, BAGUES ET BOUCLES D’OREILLES) JUMPSUIT BRONZE MES DEMOISELLES (BONGÉNIE) CHAPEAU VAN PALMA (LA MUSE BOUTIQUE)

CHOPARD L’HEURE DU DIAMANT OVAL (WATCH) AND HAPPY HEARTS COLLECTION (NECKLACE, RINGS, AND EARRINGS) BRONZE JUMPSUIT BY MES DEMOISELLES (BONGÉNIE) VAN PALMA HAT (LA MUSE BOUTIQUE)

BVLGARI “SERPENTI SEDUTTORI” (WATCH), “FIOREVER” (NECKLACES AND RINGS) BURGUNDY SWEATER STUDIO CACHEMIRE AND BURGUNDY PLEATED SILK SKIRT BY PINA (STUDIO CACHEMIRE)

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GETAWAY

ESCAPADE YANNICK NARDIN

London MORE PRECIOUS THAN EVER

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sborisov/stock.adobe.com

As the light plays across it, the Thames is sometimes transformed into a sparkling river of diamonds. At such times, its only rivals are gems such as the “Great Star of Africa” or the “Graff Lesedi La Rona”. Because the City is home to the Crown Jewels but also, in Mayfair, to the ateliers of one of the world’s most important diamond dealers : Graff.

A

fter a firm and friendly handshake, Raymond Graff immediately tells me : “I have something to show you.” A dazzling diamond necklace sparkling on a

dark presentation tray, setting the tone for an exploration of glittering jewelry creations and incredibly pure gems, a treasure trove of discoveries punctuating the visit to the atelier, dotted with admirative exclamations.

This warm welcome also reveals a family brand, intimately linked to London. While the founder Laurence Graff is now surrounded by his brother Raymond, his son François and his nephew Eliott, his career dates back to 1950. His first employer at Hatton Garden – the legendary haven for prospective fiancés looking for the perfect ring – had already made the bold prediction when asked how far he could go : “The sky’s the limit.”

Graff Diamonds was founded in 1960 and has remained at the heart of Mayfair ever since. This entirely autonomous firm houses under one roof all the skills required for jewelry creation, right the way through to an official Goldsmith’s company assay office for the hallmarking of precious metals. “Each diamond and each finished jewelry creation are checked by a member of

©Daniel Herendi

our family,” says Raymond Graff.

3D PRINTING makes it possible to verify the volume of the

jewelry, such as the shadow cast.

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A SHOWER OF FACETS Laurence Graff has succeeded in conquering some of the most extraordinary diamonds in history, endowed with intense and rare colors. The “Graff Lesedi La Rona” is a lifetime achievement : 1,109 carats and nearly 222 grams for the second largest rough diamond in the world of precious quality, surpassed only by the “Cullinan”, from which the “Great Star of Africa” mounted on the British Imperial Crown is derived.

Like so many glasses of champagne, the stunning number of carats handled by Graff’s craftsmen is enough to set minds bubbling with excitement. Yet this place is pervaded by a family atmosphere of quiet and intense concentration.

Son and father, brothers, apprentices and masters labor side by side at the workbench. Sixty artisans craft the jewelry, from prototyping to gemsetting. One of the nine apprentices is putting the finishing touches to his “masterpiece”, a refined

“Each diamond and each finished jewelry creation are checked by a member of our family.”

brooch designed to show the extent of his expertise. Perhaps by dint of the care lavished on it, he may even win a Craftsmanship & Design Award from the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council : a quintessentially British event regarded as the Oscars of Haute Joaillerie and naturally supported

by Graff.

A GRAFF artisan sets a pear-

shaped diamond.

LAURENCE GRAFF immediately saw the emerald cut that would

magnify the Graff Lesedi La Rona.

The creation of a WATCH WITH A SECRET COVER, set here with more than 42 carats of Colombian emeralds, combines the expertise of London jewelers with that of the watchmaking department in Geneva.

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JUSTINE DUPONT-MARTIN

MAISON MICHEL PARIS

GUCCI High heel bootie in cognac leather detailed with Double G hardware

Ygor hat

KARL LAGERFELD K/Stripe Ikonik Passport Cover,

SAINT LAURENT (PARIS) Wired earbuds, Saint Laurent Rive Droite x Happy Plugs,

HANDPICKED HANDBAG ESSENTIALS Busy and effervescent, London can’t be explored without these essentials.

BOBBI BROWN Luxe Shine Intense Trailblazer lipstick

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CLARINS Blue Orchid treatment oil 30ml, made from 100% plant extracts

LOUIS VUITTON

DIOR

City Guide London

Diorcamp low boot in shiny rubber

GLOBE-TROTTER

HERMÈS

MONC LONDON

Refillable leather case

PRÍNCIPE Sunglasses Dark Havana

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Special Alex Medium handbag in red

mesamong /stock.adobe.com

England Polo 20» Trolley Case

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 105

MUST-VISIT

HOTSPOTS

Chic and eccentric, prestigious and wacky, welcome to London !

RESTAURANT Designed by artists, the pink-clad interiors of Sketch London combine opulent charm with funky artwork.

BOUTIQUE Go to the Graff boutique to find the jeweler’s prestigious creations, designed and crafted in this very same building on 6-7 New Bond Street.

©Graff 6-7 New Bond Street

HÔTEL The Connaught, to savor the timeless luxury of a palace hotel in

©Connaught

BAR Immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the 1920s at Nightjar, sipping a cocktail to the sound of a jazz concert.

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©Jérôme Courtial

the heart of Mayfair.

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COLLE CT I ON

©Photograph: patriceschreyer.com

Women

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