GOOD TASTE GOODTASTE.CO.ZA
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A R T & D E S I G N
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C A R S
RSA R29,90
(incl. VAT) OTHER COUNTRIES:
R26,27(Excl. tax)
Famous Writers' Favourite Drinks Pulled Pork Recipes | Elgin: Home of Craft Cider Harissa How To | Secrets of the Durbanville Wine Valley
In This Issue
36
FOOD 22 Pulled Pork Recipes 30 Harissa How To
WINE & DRINKS 48 50 62 72
Avondale’s Johnathan Grieve Elgin: The Home of Craft Cider The Drinking Habits of Famous Writers Louis Strydom of Ernie Els Wines
LOCAL TRAVEL 36 The Secrets of Durbanville Wine Valley
22
ART & DESIGN 44 Cover Artist Jenny Liz Rome 46 The Gentlemen’s Arthouse
REGULARS
44 50 30
04 06 08 12 14 16 18 28 42 58 60 68 80
Ed’s Letter What’s on Your Mind Wine FAQs Bottoms Up Things to Do Foodie News Healthy & Happy A Tasty Combination Art & Design Book Review Rev Rap Panel Reports Last Round
On the Cover
Bright Pink Part 2 by Jenny Liz Rome. See ‘Girl Interrupted’ on p.44
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AUGUST 2016
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GOOD TASTE Editor-in-chief Colin Collard Editor Kari Collard Art Director/Digital Manager Astrid Rowe Designer Lauren de Sousa Online Editor Shannon Latimer Advertising Matthew Brand Karen Naumann Wine Tastings Tamlin Jethro & Chesray Apollis Traffic Lesel Haddon Wine Buyer/Publisher Natalie Collard REGULAR CONTRIBUTERS Articles—David Biggs, Irina von Holdt, Alex Latimer Car Reviews—Stuart Johnston Photography & Styling—C&D Heierli Proofing—Bronwen Griffiths OTHER CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Carrie Hampton · Malu Lambert
Have a question? Here’s how to contact us: • Advertising call 021-709-6400. • Subscriptions call 021-709-6400 or email subscriptions@goodtaste.co.za. • Wine delivery or wine orders call 086 111 9463, fax 0866 743 966, or email info@wineoffers.co.za. • Write to the Editor: Email us on editor@goodtaste.co.za or write to The Editor, Good Taste, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to editor@goodtaste.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style. FIND US:
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The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Good Taste will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Good Taste magazine, their families, their agencies, Good Taste contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. Sms entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.
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Good Taste magazine is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
Inventive Bacon TO
BRING
WAYS
HOME
THE
Catching Your Creative Spark A NOTE
A
FROM
merican poet, Ruth Stone said she’d feel and hear a poem coming—like a thunderous train of air—over the landscape. Ruth would "run like hell" towards the house as if being chased by the poem. She’d have to grab a pencil and piece of paper quick enough before it would fly right past her, looking for another poet to write it. Socrates had a similar idea. He believed creativity didn't come from the self but from a dæmon that whispered wisdom in his ear. Ancient Romans, too, believed a wondrous spirit lived in an artist’s walls, only to come out during the night to impart ideas. On page 44, cover artist Jenny Liz Rome explains how, before an intensive search for images, a random picture would just come to her, Socrates-like. And on page 62, Dave Biggs tells us how anguished artists like Hemingway, Poe and Faulkner found their inspiration—often with the help of a ‘genie’ inside a bottle. 4
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THE
EDITOR
We chat to the masters of local cider craft (p 50)—they put their creativity inside their bottles—while Diane Heierli tells us the idea for this month's pulled pork recipes (p 22) came to her in a dream one night. We’re not sure from where the people behind Gentlemen’s Arthouse (p 46) get their ingenious ideas, but maybe inside their Edwardian walls there’s an illusive spirit helping out. Mostly, however, inspiration comes from plain hard work. And that’s what our designers and new editor, my niece, have been up to. Their creative juices fill the pages of this, our newlook issue. We hope you like it. All this and more, not forgetting valuable information on all the best and latest wines.
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High season supplement applies from 11- 13 Nov & 18 - 26Nov’16
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Peak season surcharges and block out dates apply. Prices are from a starting price and per person sharing. All prices are indicative and are subject to change due to currency fluctuations, rate increases, airfare increases and availability. For standard terms and conditions refer to www.thompsons.co.za E&OE
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38
YEARS OF TRUSTED TRAVEL EXPERIENCE
THOMPSO NS HOLIDAYS
What’s on your
What’s up, (with that) Doc? Thanks for including Adrian Forrester’s article “Do SA Doctors Charge Too Much?” in Issue 254. Not too long ago a Cape Town dermatologist charged me a whopping R900 for about ten minutes of her time, after she squeezed me in between double booked patients. Seems like you need to sell your kidney before you’re able to afford to have a suspicious-looking mole checked out. Warren, CAPE TOWN
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Empty Jam Jars I really enjoyed last issue’s spread on quinces. The memories it brought back! My mom used to make my brothers and I quince jam similar to Diane Heierli’s recipe. We’d have it on thick slices of white bread slapped over a layer of farm-fresh butter. Being the youngest, my brothers would let me scoop the last little bits out the jar with my finger. That was always my favourite part. Jani, DURBAN
media
Tweet, Tweet!
We recently asked our Twitter followers where to get the best croissants in South Africa. After all the responses we narrowed it down to our top three spots in CT, JHB & KZN. Turn to page 16 to find out who made the croissant cut.
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Your Wine Questions
Is Champagne for weddings and birthdays only? Is a gift of wine at a dinner party meant for drinking now or is it a personal gift for the host to enjoy later? Could wines found stored in a workshop be valuable?
I have always been told we should drink white wine with white meat, and red wine with red meat. When should one drink Champagne (apart from weddings and birthdays, of course)?
Oh dear! Weddings and birthdays? What an old-fashioned idea! Champagne (or Méthode Cap Classique in South Africa) can be drunk at every imaginable occasion. Sparkling wines are the world’s most versatile drink. Bubbly is the only wine that is acceptable at breakfast time. Also at teatime, lunch time and supper time. MCC is the perfect accompaniment to sushi, roast duck, pork bangers, smoked salmon and corn flakes. Long ago, it was fashionable to greet dinner guests with a small glass of sherry. Today, a flute of sparkling wine is the perfect welcoming drink. Nobody can be unhappy with a glass of bubbly in hand. Please ditch the idea that Champagne is only for special occasions. We make some of the best bubblies in the world here in the Cape and they’re not unreasonably priced. More and more people are discovering the joy of bubbles at any occasion. Join the revolution. Is it considered polite to bring a bottle of wine for the host when invited to a dinner party? If so, is the wine meant to be drunk at the party or be a personal gift for the host to enjoy later?
This is a problem that bothers many a dinner guest. In her cheeky little book Spit or Swallow, Jenny Ratcliffe-Wright discusses it at length. She makes two recommendations—one, that you bring two bottles; one to be drunk at the party and the other for the host. You can indicate which is which by bringing the one well chilled (for now) and the other at room 8
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temperature. The one intended as a personal gift should be of better quality than the one for immediate drinking. Alternately, bring a bottle and a gift of flowers or chocolates; the bottle for immediate consumption and the flowers obviously for the host or hostess. Of course, these are not hard and fast rules and circumstances will change according to the nature of the party and your relationship with the host. If, for example, it’s a very formal affair, you may feel uncomfortable arriving clutching a bottle and prefer to send a gift of flowers with a “thank you” note the following day. After an old friend passed away, his widow found three cases of assorted wines tucked away in a dark corner of his workshop. Could these be valuable? They’ve been untouched for about ten years.
There’s only one way to discover the quality of your wines and that is to taste them. Some wines do improve with age, but most wine is made for early drinking and does not last well. The quality will also depend on the way the wine was made and how it was stored. Big fluctuations in temperature can ruin wine, which is why professional cellars are kept at a constant temperature. The “workshop” storage doesn’t sound ideal. Our advice is to have fun with your free wines. Whenever you have guests who enjoy wine, open one of the old bottles and share it. If it is ghastly, throw it out. If it is delicious, enjoy it. You might discover some gems. We would advise, however, that you always have another bottle in reserve in case you strike a dud. There’s no point in drinking dreadful wine.
Wine lovers rejoice for
PINOTAGE
on TAP 2016
The Diemersfontein Pinotage-on-Tap (POT) festivals invite all Pinotage lovers to indulge in Diemersfontein’s Original Coffee-Chocolate Pinotage, flowing straight from the barrel, coupled with delectable food and live local entertainment, at three picturesque locations in Johannesburg (20 Aug) , Durban (24 Sept) and Cape Town (29 Oct).
YOUR TICKET GETS YOU: Free flowing Pinotage on tap, delectable food, dessert, live music bands & the best wine festival experience EVER! Stand a chance to WIN 2 tickets to one of the POT events taking place later this year. Visit Diemersfontein Wine Estate on Facebook and Twitter for the latest news!
JOHANNESBURG 20 AUGUST 2016
Val Bonne Country Estate, Modderfontein Tickets: R435 or R980 with a case on Pino! (VIP Ticket Price: R1325) Bands: Toya Delazy & Rubber Duc
DURBAN 24 SEPTEMBER 2016 The Litchi Orchard, Salt Rock Tickets: R370 or R910 with a case of Pino! Bands: Toya Delazy & Edisontide (previously known as Yorke)
CAPE TOWN 29 OCTOBER 2016
Diemersfontein Wine & Country Estate, Wellington Tickets: R435 or R980 with a case of Pino! Bands: Zolani Mahola (from Freshlyground), Cape town Brass Band, Jazz Trio, Wynberg Boys High School Drum Band, all under the direction of musical director, Richard Cock (Creator of Starlight Classics)
Tickets on sale via Computicket! Joburg - R435; Durban - R370; Cape Town – R435. Ensure that you purchase tickets before they sell out. Remember, space is limited!
www.diemersfontein.co.za
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G O O D TA S T E C O M P E T I T I O N
Bottoms Up WINE,
BEER
&
DR INKS
Other Uses for Vodka
Where the Wild Things Are
Besides drinking it, and making a mean Moscow Mule, did you know there are other uses for vodka? The following should only be done with that cheap bottle you got from last year’s secret Santa:
At Wild Clover Brewery, the vision is simple: make pure authentic, handcrafted beer using traditional and natural brewing methods and quality ingredients. You’ll get a wonderful whiff of hops at The Wild Clover Farm just outside Stellenbosch. It’s here where the brand’s family adopted the likes of a pair of owls, an elusive mole, a Cape eagle and a staffie named Zach. With a clear mission, the right ingredients, and some imagination they decided to tackle four classic international beer recipes, inspired by the four local critters. www.wildcloverbreweries.co.za
• To clean your specs, simply wipe the lenses • with a soft, clean cloth dampened with vodka. The alcohol in the vodka cleans the glass and kills germs. • Wilting bouquets perk up when you mix a few drops of vodka and a teaspoon of sugar with the water in the vase. • Looking for a pesticide-free way to treat weeds? Mix vodka with water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle, and spritz directly onto your target.
A Different Kind of Cold One Jonty Medcalf and Kelly Kretzman say coffee has always been a big part of their adventures and travels—a constant companion on their long road trips and surf missions. The globetrotting two led them to cold brew coffee—and they were instantly hooked. This resulted in them creating the first coffee company to launch nitro cold brew in Cape Town. Using a special process to infuse the cold brew coffee with nitrogen gas, the end result is a deliciously creamy coffee drink that pours like a stout beer. Best of all, Cove Coffee Co. use locally-roasted, ethically sourced and certified organic coffee beans. Plus, their bottles are reusable and recycled. www.covecoffee.co.za
Make a Toast Those who have a fear of condensation (along with toast lovers) will quite enjoy these cork coasters shaped like a piece of toast. R160 from www.we-heart-this.com.
Bubbly to Try: Clicquot Arrow Where do you want to go? The Clicquot Arrow can point the way. A twist on traditional road signs, the Clicquot Arrow invites you to celebrate with a trendy metal case shaped like an arrow, designed to hold one 750ml bottle of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label. Available from August, from R629.95.
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Wine Book to Buy Wine, Women and Good Hope: A History of Scandalous Behaviour in the Cape is a look at the more salacious history of the Cape of Good Hope, where alcohol flowed freely, reputations ended in tatters, and people thought monogamy was a type of wood. Even the likes of Jan van Riebeeck, Cecil John Rhodes and Barney Barnato feature in some of the saucy accounts. Author June McKinnon uses her expertise as a genealogist to trace the lineages of well-known family trees and overturns the notion that our forefathers were nobler than their modern descendants. R184 at www.exclus1ves.co.za.
Recipe source: http://www.food.com | Stock images from Allthefreestock.com. Photograph of Hanks by Lauren de Sousa
Glühwein is a Go
Feel like you’re in-between ski sessions with this traditional German drink that’ll take the edge off our icy winter nights. Ingredients 3⁄4 cup water (or orange juice) 3⁄4 cup white sugar, or less to taste 1 stick of cinnamon 1 orange 10 whole cloves 1 bottle of dry red wine, like Cabernet Sauvignon • In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer. • Cut the orange in half. Squeeze the juice into the simmering water. Push the cloves into the outside of the orange peel, and place the peel in the simmering water. • Continue simmering for 30 min, until thick and syrupy. Pour in the wine and heat until steaming but not simmering. • Remove the clove studded orange halves. Serve hot in mugs or glasses that have been preheated in warm water. • Snuggle up and enjoy.
Maps your Bag? The Wine Maps app provides a handy visual reference of wine regions in nineteen countries around the world. It’s a great tool for anyone looking to learn more about the world of wine, and even better for those who love a good map. Visual Maps is a purely visual reference which allows users to search for the location of a wine region with 105 static maps. Download from Google Play or iTunes.
Make Mine a Double Named after the owner’s perm-sporting Irish terrier, you’ll find Hanks Olde Irish tucked away at the bottom half of Cape Town’s bustling Bree Street. Modelled on an old English-style pub, this whisky bar offers an extensive range of the best Scottish, Irish, Japanese, and Bourbon whiskies around. For those who still need to be swayed by the wonderful ways of whisky, there’s also wine, beer and the usual spirits available. A long bar snakes around the left side of the cozy space, while the right side is home to plush leather booths and a resident night owl DJ. Currently, this is where CT’s foxiest folks hang out. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 5pm til late. www.hanks.co.za
“Like the fox, I run with the hunted” - Hank
Roan Ranger, Label of Love Is there anything like the bond between a (wo)man and a horse? We don’t think so. When asked about the story behind Roan Ranger’s eye-catching label, wineman Charles Withington says there’s always been a strong family connection to horses. Great cousin Fred Withington is famous for dashing first past the post in Britain’s Grand National in 1908. So for Charles steeds have a strong sentimental pull. A roan horse is recognised by its colouring and –markings. Like the markings on the horse, Charles’s wine reflects diversity through blending. Saddle up and gallop off with a bottle. R75.99 from Wine-of-the-Month Club.
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Things To Do IN
WINE &
‘MUSIC THAT
MUSIC
IS
FILLS
OF
THE
TOP OF THE HILL
WINE
THE
SILENCE
CUP
’
-ROBERT FRIPP
& WINE
Every Wednesday Warm up in front of the fireplace, and enjoy the live music at Neethlingshof’s Winter, Wine and Music Evenings every Wednesday from 5-8pm during the months of June, July and August. The winter menu is available and includes tapas, cheese and charcuterie platters. www.neethlingshof.co.za
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JULY & AUGUST
BEER
2 July Beer or wine? Tough choice. Luckily Spier is pairing their wines and Hoghouse beers with their seasonal platters from Eight Restaurant. Carefully selected by sommelier, Joakim Blackadder, and chef Charl Coetzee, each beer and/or wine complements their best farm fare. R395 pp. For reservations, email eight@spier.co.za.
goodtaste.co.za
WO RKS HOP
9 July Experience DeWaal’s beautiful farm with Top of the Hill Fun Walk through the vineyards to the oldest existing Pinotage vineyard block in the world. A selection of local cheeses and treats on the outside terrace, as well as a glass of DeWaal wine are also included. R150 pp. www.dewaal.co.za
S
20 July Babylonstoren holds regular workshops to share their secrets and skills, not only about their magical garden, but also about gardening in general. They invite experts in their fields to host the workshops along with the gardening team. Their next workshop teaches you how to grow and use shiitake and oyster mushrooms with Kotie van Tonder and Danica Resoort. www.babylonstoren.com
‘OF PATHS IN
ALL YOU
LIFE
SUR E THEM
A
,
TAKE
M AKE
FEW
AR E
20 August The first Pinotage on Tap Festival of 2016 takes place in Johannesburg at Val Bonne Country Estate in Modderfontein. During the festival, guests will be treated to top-quality local performances while indulging in an array of delicious foods, including desserts, which pair perfectly with the CoffeeChocolate Pinotage on tap. Tickets are available now at Computicket for R435 or R980 with a case of Pino. www.diemersfontein.co.za
THE
OF
DIRT
’
-JOHN MUIR
TR A
IL V
S RUN D R A IN E Y
PINOTAGE FESTIVAL
IMAGES OF PANCAKES AND TRAIL RUNNER FROM ALLTHEFREESTOCK.COM
PANCAKES & WINE
23 July Join Rhebokskloof Wine Estate for a beautiful trail vineyard run in the Paarl Valley for either the 5km or 10km routes. As always there will be a great vibe, excellent giveaways and delicious Rhebokskloof wine on hand. Entries start at R80. www.trailfun.co.za
13 & 27 August Uitkyk is hosting pancake and wine pairings during the winter months. A scrumptious selection of five pancakes, prepared with various fillings, are presented on a platter with five wines, all produced by Uitkyk Estate. There are two seatings per day (11am and 2pm), however spots are limited. www.uitkyk.co.za
20-21 August The second IVAL TE FEST A Winelands L O C CH O Chocolate Festival at Blaauwklippen Wine Estate in Stellenbosch offers an even bigger and better line-up for the whole family. Little ones can enjoy a variety of fun and educational activities. Tickets start at R60 and are available via Webtickets. Children under about what’s 6 enter for free. www. winelandschocolatefestival. happening co.za www.goodtaste.co.za
Find out more
goodtaste.co.za
| AUGUST 2016 |
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Take a Bite FOODIE
NEWS
AND
FINDS
The Best Croissants in the Country Although we dream of dipping a chocolate croissant in our café au lait while gazing at the Eiffel Tower, we can still get our pastry-loving paws on some pretty great croissants right here in SA. Here are our best local spots to get them: Olympia Bakery in Kalk Bay, Cape Town. Jason Bakery in Bree Street, Cape Town. Euro Haus Bakery in Loop Street, Cape Town. The Bread Basket in Sandton, Joburg. Junipa’s in Bryanston, Joburg. Café De La Creme in Melville, Joburg. The Glenwood Bakery in Glenwood, Durban. Vovo Telo in Umhlanga & Ballito, Durban. Lucy’s Cake Shop in Kloof, Durban.
Welcome to the Club Luke Dale-Roberts of The Test Kitchen (uh, heard of him?) has got his wife, Sandalene Dale-Roberts, his top chef Wesley Randles and manager Simon Widdison to partner with him to open The Shortmarket Club. In a heritage building just off Bree Street, the hot spot will be serving breakfast, lunch and dinner and, in keeping with its opulent old-world feel, many of the dishes will be modern interpretations of classics. You’ll find The Shortmarket Club at the Mother City’s Shortmarket Street. Book your table at www.theshortmarketclub.co.za.
Sisters Shahar and Or Peled dreamt of a home full of ice cream and cookies—two of their favourite things. The crafty duo combined the two, discovering a whole new spin on ice cream sandwiches. In search of the ultimate combinations, they tried and tested their way through many a cookie and ice cream recipe (tough job)—and this was how Crumbs & Cream was born. Using only the finest quality Italian gelato and the tastiest freshly baked cookies, these ice cream sandwiches were responsible for forming queues around the block. Crumbs & Cream invite customers to choose two different flavoured freshly baked cookies, pick a scoop of gelato ice-cream and lay on a selection of toppings and spreads. Find them at the Waterfront’s Watershed, and Regent Road in Sea Point. www.crumbsandcream.co.za
Trick: If you need just a few drops of lemon juice, avoid cutting the lemon in half as it will dry out quickly. Instead, puncture the fruit with a metal skewer and squeeze out what you need.
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IMAGES COURTESY OF WWW.ALLTHEFREESTOCK.COM
A New Kind of Ice Cream Sandwich
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Foodie Instagramers to Follow
Potato Doughnuts Are a Thing Now Leigh Kellis of the Holy Donut in Portland Maine, USA, said she came up with this concept when she was looking for a doughnut made with really high-quality ingredients. Her friend suggested folding riced potatoes into standard cake doughnut dough, a technique borrowed from The Joy of Cooking. And that’s how the potato doughnut was reborn. Leigh soon discovered that this not only made the doughnut fluffier, but it also didn’t dry out like others. Instead of flying to Portland for a potato doughnut (doh!) can someone make them here? Ta.
Cook like King George Get your Greek on with premium quality Salt&Pepper pots and pans brought to you by Australian chef George Calombaris. Salt&Pepper’s Greek range features five separate non-stick multi-layered forged aluminiumcoated pots and pans, crafted to improve your pancake-flipping (and other) skills in the kitchen. The pots and pans range starts from R599 and are only available from at @home.
Forget food critics, there’s a new wave of food influencers who will get over 60 000 likes for an image of a gourmet hotdog they got at a deli up the road. Here are some foodie Instagram heavy weights we like to fill our feed with: 1. A Guy Named Patrick: This rather dapper man about town shares his artful snaps via @aguynamedpatrick. 2. New Fork City: Native New Yorkers, Gilly, Emily and Natalie share their love of food with the world with @new_fork_city. 3. Grilled Cheese Social: See selfproclaimed sandwich expert, chef and blogger, MacKenzie Smith’s daily foodie pics with the handle @grilledcheesesocial.
Cherry on Top This calligraphy cake topper will turn regular cakes into YAY cakes! Get yours for R100 at www.mocholoco.co.za.
Healthy & Happy HEALTHY
BODY,
HEALTHY
MIND
Benjamin Buttons Remember the movie Benjamin Button where Brad Pitt ages backwards? Well, the common white button mushroom is something like that. Far more than just a burger topping or omelette add-in; it’s also a widely researched therapeutic agent. Rich in selenium, B vitamins, copper and potassium, these little buttons can do heaps for our health. While they contain a range of nutrients, the key active ingredient is actually conjugated linoleic acid (CLA). CLA is a unique type of fatty acid which affects many mechanisms in the body—from boosting metabolism to increasing lean muscle tissue. CLA is also thought to decrease the production of oestrogen, protecting against breast cancer. It reduces damage to the aorta and the heart, making it aid against cardiovascular disease. In a few studies scientists have even seen some success in lowering PSA counts in men with prostate cancer-–just by using doses of the unassuming button mushroom.
WITH DIJON
A
THIS
LEMON
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Avocado & Pomegranate Salad Add avo and pomegranate seeds to your next salad stat; not only will it look pretty and taste delicious, it’s also all kinds of good for your health. Amongst other things, avocado is thought to reduce the risk of stroke, diabetes and coronary disease. Pomegranates are also high in phytochemicals which may promote heart health and help to prevent cancer.
Ingredients 1 handful of pomegranate seeds 1 large ripe avocado, cut into chunks 200g snow peas 2 sticks of spring onion, thinly sliced 1 head butter lettuce, washed and torn 1 handful mint leaves 2 celery sticks, thinly sliced
We Jammin’ Love healthy food but don’t have time to prepare it? Or not able to leave your desk? Enter JarBar. JarBar makes healthy salads and soups in a jar and delivers straight to your office. The weekly menu consists of two options per day—one veggie/vegan option and another option which uses 100% pasture-raised meat. So how does it work? Well, you have to live in CT (sorry, Jozi and Durbs); register online, preorder your jars, make payment, and the jars are delivered between 8am-12.30pm. On top of using good-foryou ingredients, JarBar is friendly to animals and kind to the planet. Go to www.jarbar.co.za.
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Ready for Take-Off? Although yogis are often mistaken for better dressed superheroes with their bend-ability and all round stretchiness, they’ve taken things to a whole new level with AcroYoga. AcroYoga is a yoga subculture that’s big in NYC and is now filtering down south. AcroYoga is a blend of yoga, acrobatics and Thai massage that was founded by Jason Nemer and Jenny Sauer-Klein in San Francisco. An AcroYoga class first takes a typical vinyasa flow into a circle where everyone practices together—then into the air with one-on-one partnering. At the end, partners traditionally practice Thai massage on each other. Nice, huh? Where to get your AcroYoga on: • www.airyoga.co.za, Woodstock, Cape Town • www.acroyoga.org, Sandton, Johannesburg
DETOX TEA RECIPE SOURCE: WWW.INTOTHEGLOSS.COM. IMAGES TAKEN FROM ALLTHEFREESTOCK.COM
TI P : PA I R
Let’s Go Native
Native was created by Andrea Jenkins, a nutritional
therapist and Thelo van Wyk, a chocolatier and pastry chef. These two very active individuals have a love for the outdoors and a love for good food too. Searching for a healthy snack after a surf or hike, they soon found the things they liked most were the very snacks they made themselves. Soon friends and family members were placing orders for the tasty treats these two were turning out. And in February 2015, the Native brand was born. Native products only contain the freshest produce, right from the farm, organic where possible and pure as mother earth intended. They use raw honey and if you’re eating a nut from Native, chances are, it was happily hanging from a tree less than a month ago. Native’s products are free of refined sugars and are sweetened with raw honey, coconut blossom sugar or Xylitol. Go to www.nativesouthafrica.com.
Unicorns
Do Exist
Drink Me Pretty
Wazoogles is a shake that’s completely free of added sugars, chemicals, colourants, flavourants and fillers. It’s an ideal nutrient dense and filling breakfast smoothie or post workout recovery shake for sustained energy and optimum recovery. Unfortunately, most protein shakes are filled with nasty chemicals, non-nutritive sweeteners and animal-derived (whey) protein which can be full of antibiotics and hormones (yuk!). Until now, there hasn’t been a plant-based, clean protein blend that uses nutrient-dense, organically-grown raw plants and ingredients from around the world. It also includes amino acids making it as much of a complete protein as whey. Unicorn Berry smoothie bowl www.wazoogles-2.myshopify.com
UNICOR N BER RY
CONTAINS :
HIBISCUS
F L O W E R , C A M U C A M U B E R R Y, C H I A SEEDS, HEMP PROTEIN POW DER, M ACA R O O T, M E S Q U I T E , L U C U M A F RU I T PEA PROTEIN
&
Brush up on Your Dry Brushing Skills Heard of dry brushing but not sure how to do it? Dry brushing helps give you tighter, toned skin that glows and gives your bod a bit of a detox. Here’s what you need to know:
Start your mornings with this Morning Detox Tea. There’s ginger for digestion, turmeric to cleanse the liver, cayenne to warm the body and turn up metabolism, and cinnamon to serve as an anti-inflammatory. 6 cups of water piece of fresh ginger 1 tsp turmeric 2 cinnamon sticks ½ tsp cayenne pepper spoonful of raw honey squeeze of lemon 1. Peel ginger and slice thinly. Use the side of the knife to smash the ginger. 2. Add ginger slices to a saucepan with 6 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 10 min. 3. Add the cinnamon sticks, turmeric and cayenne. Simmer for another 10 min. 4. Strain into a mug and stir in a spoonful of honey and a squeeze of lemon.
• First, you’ll need an all-natural bristled brush, a longer handle may be useful for those harder-to-reach areas. • Before you shower or bath is the best time to dry brush. Start at your feet, and gently brush up towards your heart in long, sweeping motions. • Brush (almost!) everywhere (hands, soles of the feet, underarms, neck and jawline) in gentle circular motions, both clockwise and counter-clockwise. • Repeat over the same areas 6-10 times, the whole process should take 5 minutes.
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Keep calm through the storm y a w A s s e r t S r t s f Stress-relie f for the ly i m a f e l o h y wStress Awa f Stress-relie ole for the wh family
Brought to you by
TO ENTER: Go to www. goodtaste.co.za/win. Get five extra entries if you sign up to our newsletter. And, for one extra entry per social media platform, like us on Facebook, and follow us on Instagram & Twitter (buttons on our home page).
Win
an AGA Cast Iron
Room Heater
WORTH R18 500* *Does not include installation
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The timeless appeal of a cast-iron room heater is hard to beat and makes a beautiful centrepiece in any home. For over 80 years, AGA has remained at the forefront of engineering excellence. AGA room heaters embody the best AGA traditions and employ the very latest technology. When you invest in an AGA room heater, you’re acquiring a piece of history, a talking point and a centrepiece for your home.
THE PRIZE:
The AGA Wenlock is the perfect blend of old and new, it combines cutting edge design with traditional casting beauty. It offers top or rear flue connection, a high chrome riddling grate, a built-in ash pan, combustion air control, interchangeable wood burning plate and one of the most effective air-wash systems available to keep the glass clean.
For more information or to find your local stockist, visit www.agaliving.co.za. TERMS AND CONDITIONS: 1. The winner will be drawn randomly, the first correct completed entry will win the prize. 2. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. 3. The Prize consists of one AGA Room Heater worth R18 500 excluding delivery. Delivery is to urban areas only and doesn’t include installation. 4. The prize is not transferable or resaleable, and can’t be exchanged for cash. 5. Employees of Aga and Good Taste Magazine, their advertising agencies and immediate families may not enter the competition. 6. Entries close on 31 August 2016. 7. The competition is only open to South African residents over the age of 18. 8. The winners will be notified telephonically and their names posted on our website. 9. To comply with the Consumer Protection Act, postal entries will no longer be allowed and the winners will be required to supply their ID numbers. 10. E-mail addresses are not mandatory.
G O O D TA S T E C O M P E T I T I O N
Knife & Pork WOR DS & R E CI PE S BY DI A N E H E I E R L I PHOTOGRAPHY & STYLING BY C&D HEIERLI
PULLED PORK
W Inventive ways to bring home the bacon
inter has fast become one of my favourite seasons—it’s the time for misty walks on the mountain, tucking under the blankets in the morning, and enjoying toasty open fires. One of my all-time favourite wintery things to do is to make a slow roasted pork shoulder and invite a few of my friends around. The real beauty of preparing a large slow roast is that afterwards you can whip up the leftovers to create a variety of delicious dishes that’ll keep you going for a week. The big bonus, of course, is that these rustle-up recipes won’t take a whole day to prepare. Use your lovingly-prepared left-over pork for a hearty broth, in a delicately spiced ragu, or to create a quick Mexican feast.
FOOD ASSISTANT MARELI ERASMUS
RECIPE ON P.26
PORK RAGU WITH HOMEMADE PASTA RECIPE ON P.26
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MEXICAN PULLED PORK TORTILLAS RECIPE ON P.26
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PORK BROTH RECIPE ON P.26
Pulled Pork Recipes PULLED PORK Serves 10 3kg shoulder of pork, bone in 4 onions 2 quinces 3 sticks of celery 1 bulb of garlic 1 bunch of fresh sage 4 fresh bay leaves 500ml bottle of cider 2 tbsp fennel seeds 2 whole cloves 2 dried chillies 1 tbsp salt olive oil 10 baby potatoes 10 baby carrots 1. Preheat the oven to 160°C. 2. Peel and cut the onions into quarters and slice the quinces. 3. Trim and roughly chop the celery and break the garlic bulb into cloves. 4. Scatter the onions, celery and garlic along with the sage and bay leaves in a large roasting tray, pour in the cider. 5. Bash the fennel seeds, cloves, dried chillies and salt into a fine dust with a pestle and mortar, then massage over the pork with a drizzle of olive oil. 6. Place the pork in the tray, cover tightly with tin foil and place in the oven and roast for 6-7 hours. 7. Remove the pork from the oven and add the potatoes and baby carrots. 8. Return to the oven for another 45 min to an hour. 9. The meat will tear away easily from the bone when it’s done. PORK BROTH Serves 4 1 onion, chopped 4 cloves of garlic 200g bacon, diced 1 tbsp olive oil 2 celery sticks, sliced 3 tbsp tomato paste 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp chilli powder 400g canned diced tomatoes 3 cups chicken stock 100g barley 500g left-over pulled pork flatbreads, to serve
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FOR THE GUACAMOLE: ½ red onion, chopped 2 avocados, mashed with a fork 1 lemon, juiced bunch of fresh coriander, chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds, roasted
PORK RAGU WITH HOMEMADE PASTA Serves 6 FOR THE PASTA: 300g flour 3 large free-range eggs 1 tbsp olive oil FOR THE RAGU: 2 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 250g button mushrooms, sliced 3 cloves of garlic, peeled 1kg left-over pulled pork 400g canned chopped tomatoes 300g vine tomatoes 5 sprigs of fresh oregano, chopped handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 whole tomatoes, chopped salt and pepper, to season Parmesan cheese, to serve
TO SERVE: 200g sour cream 100g cheddar cheese, grated 4 tortillas, toasted in a pan
1. 2. 3. 4.
MEXICAN PULLED PORK TORTILLAS Serves 4 1 onion, chopped 1 clove of garlic, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 green pepper, diced 1 red chilli, chopped 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp coriander 1 tsp smoked paprika 400g tinned kidney beans, drained 250g tinned tomatoes 500g left-over pulled pork
1. Fry the onion and garlic with the olive oil until translucent. 2. Then add the green pepper, chilli and spices and fry for another 3 min. 3. Add the kidney beans, canned tomatoes and pulled pork and simmer for 15 min. 4. Meanwhile, make the guacamole by adding all the ingredients together. Set aside. 5. Fill each tortilla with some pork and bean mixture and add the other ingredients to preference.
1. Fry the onions, garlic and bacon in olive oil until golden and crispy. 2. Add the celery, tomato paste, smoked paprika and chilli powder and cook for 3 min. 3. Add the canned tomatoes, chicken stock and barley and simmer for 20-30 min until the barley is soft. 4. Lastly, add the pulled pork. 5. Serve with toasted flatbreads.
goodtaste.co.za
Place the flour on a board or in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and crack the eggs into it. Beat the eggs until smooth and add the oil. Using the tips of your fingers, mix the eggs with the flour, incorporating a little bit at a time, until everything is combined. 5. Knead the pieces of dough together until you have one big smooth lump. 6. Knead and work it with your hands to develop the gluten in the flour, otherwise the pasta will be soft and flimsy when you cook it. 7. When the pasta starts to feel smooth and silky instead of rough and floury, it’s done. 8. Wrap it in clingfilm and let it rest in the fridge for at least half an hour. 9. Meanwhile, make the pork ragu by placing a heavybottomed pot on medium heat on the stove. 10. Add the olive oil, onions, mushrooms and garlic to the pot and fry until golden. 11. Add the rest of the ingredients (except the cheese), season and let it simmer for 30 min. 12. Take the pasta out of the fridge and roll it out with a pasta machine until it’s 2mm thick. Cut long rectangular strips of pasta with a knife. 13. Keep it on a floured surface, otherwise it will stick to the surface and the other pasta. 14. Bring a pot of water to the boil and add 1 tbsp salt and 2 tbsp olive oil. 15. Add your pasta to the water and cook until al dente (about 3 min). 16. Drain the water off the pasta and give a quick rinse. 17. Serve with the ragu, fresh oregano and Parmesan.
GOOD TASTE PROMOTION
JOIN THE BLEND TREND
COOK’S TIP: For a cottage pie, use beef mince instead of lamb mince.
Shepherd’s Pie
SERVE: 4 PREPARATION TIME: 35 MIN
• 50ml olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 250g lean lamb mince • 250g button mushrooms, chopped & pan fried • 1 tomato, cubed • 1 carrot, peeled & grated • 125ml peas • 50ml chutney • 15ml Worcestershire sauce • 4 medium potatoes, finely sliced
1. Heat the oil in a pot. Add the onion and sauté until glossy. Add the mince and allow to brown and then add the mushrooms, tomato, carrots and peas. 2. Add the chutney, Worcestershire sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper. 3. Allow to cook together for 15 min. 4. Place into small bowls and top with the sliced potato. 5. Place into an oven preheated to 180°C and bake until potato is cooked through and golden.
A
s many of us try to reduce our meat intake, it’s good to know umami-rich mushrooms are just the ticket if you don’t want to miss out on meaty flavours but do want to reduce calories, cholesterol and sodium. That’s why the South African Mushroom Farmers’ Association has introduced blendability—a lighter option that oozes flavour. Simply mix mushrooms and a meat of your choice together to create your favourite dish. By mixing equal quantities and similar textures (e.g 50% finely chopped mushrooms with the same amount of minced meat) will create great tasting seamless blendability. Blendability even works for fussy kids when it comes to eating their five portions of fruit and veg a day. Minced mushrooms disappear in burgers, tacos and spaghetti bolognese—simply making these dishes taste even better!
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MUSHROOMINFO.CO.ZA.
A Tasty Combination Try this Win ter-spiced Pe a r a nd Apple Crumble with this off-dry wine
GIVEAWAY We’re giving away
3 Deliciously Ella Every Day cookbooks!
WIN!
Deliciously Ella’s much-awaited second book is packed with more than a 100 of Ella Woodward’s trademark simple yet delicious plant-based, dairyfree and gluten-free recipes. Get cooking with one of her quick weekday dinners, slow-cook comfort foods, colourful salads, quick breakfast recipes, hot and cold drink recipes, and of course, her array of good-for-you sweet treats. Jonathan Ball Publishers, R345.
TRY THIS RECIPE WITH AN OFF-DRY WHITE WINE:
Bergsig Gewürztraminer 2015 Rose petal enhanced with the aromas of freshly-sliced peaches. The palate is fresh-fruity and beautifully balanced. R75.99
Order at www.wineofthemonth.co.za
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WINTER-SPICED PEAR AND APPLE CRUMBLE Serves 6–8 FOR THE FRUIT LAYER
5 red apples 3 pears 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger 150g raisins FOR THE CRUMBLE LAYER
200g pecans 300g rolled oats 2 teaspoons vanilla powder 4 tablespoons coconut oil 8 tablespoons date syrup 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon coconut yogurt, to serve (optional)
Make It Better: If you want to create something extra-indulgent, then try drizzling maple syrup across the top of the crumble once it has finished baking. It makes it extra-sweet and delicious!
1. Start by making the fruit layer. Peel the apples and pears, then chop them into bitesized pieces, discarding the cores. 2. Place the chopped pieces into a saucepan with the cinnamon, ginger and raisins, plus enough water to cover the bottom few centimetres of the pan. Let the fruit gently cook over a medium-low heat for about 20 minutes, until it’s really soft . 3. Preheat the oven to 200°C (fan 180°C). 4. Meanwhile, make the crumble layer. Place the pecans in a food processor for about 30 seconds, until they form a flour. Tip into a bowl and mix in the oats and vanilla. 5. Place the coconut oil, date syrup, ginger and cinnamon in a saucepan and gently heat the mix until the coconut oil melts. Pour this into the oat mix and stir it all together. 6. Once the fruit has cooked, place it in a baking dish (mine is 31 x 21cm) and spread the crumble layer on top. Bake for 20 minutes, until the top turns a golden brown. Serve with coconut yogurt, if you like.
RECIPE EXTRACTED FROM DELICIOUSLY ELLA EVERY DAY BY ELLA WOODWARD, © ELLA WOODWARD 2016. PHOTOGRAPHY © CLARE WINFIELD.
SMS your name and the word ‘Ella’ to 32060 for your chance to
HEALTHY LIVING
THE
KIWI WAY!
Kiwi is an exotic fruit that originated in China, with a fuzzy outer skin and juicy flesh. Rich in trace elements, minerals and vitamins, the kiwi quickly conquered the global market with its unique, exceptional sweet and sour taste!
Why introduce kiwi into our daily diet?
How to enjoy kiwis
It is rich in vitamin C. Consumption of a single kiwifruit can cover the human organism’s daily requirement in this vitamin. It is also an excellent source of vitamins A, E and B complex, and it contains potassium, phosphorus, and magnesium.
There are several different ways to incorporate kiwis into your daily diet: • Serve your friends a refreshing fruit drink made with kiwi and melon. • Make delicious and healthy kiwi-based smoothies. • Enrich your breakfast by adding freshly cut slices of kiwi to yoghurt or to your cereal. • Enjoy chocolate kiwis! Cut the kiwis in slices and dip them in melted chocolate. The taste is a revelation! • Simply add kiwi to your favourite green salad.
European kiwis conquer the global market! European kiwi stands out for its quality, both in taste and in nutritional value, because it is harvested by hand. Kiwis are placed in suitable refrigerated storage areas within 24 hours from harvesting, thus guaranteeing that all of the fruit’s nutrients are preserved. European kiwis stand out and are sought after in many international markets, and are exported to over 51 countries in Europe, Africa, Asia and America.
www.hellokiwi.eu www.hellokiwi.eu
So let your imagination run free and pleasantly surprise your friends and family, by using kiwi in various recipes. The results will amaze you!
PROJECT CO-FINANCED BY THE PROJECT CO-FINANCED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION ANDAND GREECE EUROPEAN UNION GREECE
HarissaHow To RECIPES BY DIANE HEIERLI PHOTOGRAPHY & STYLING BY C&D HEIERLI
FOOD ASSISTANT MARELI ERASMUS
GO TO GOODTASTE.CO.ZA FOR THE HARISSA PASTE RECIPE
A little fiery and all kinds of fragrant, harissa is the most popular flavouring agent used in Tunisian cuisine. Made from chilli and assorted herbs and spices, this orangeyred paste adds a delicious bada boom to many a dish
LEBLEBI OR CHICKPEA SOUP RECIPE ON P.34
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Too hot to handle? You can always adjust the heat by reducing the number of chillies to suit your tender taste buds
HONEY & HARISSA CHICKEN RECIPE ON P.34
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ShakShuka recipe on p.34
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Harissa Recipes
LebLebi or ChiCkpea Soup Serves 6
450g dried chickpeas 3.7l water 4 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 tsp salt 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp dried red chilli flakes ½ cup fresh coriander, chopped 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 6 ripe tomatoes, chopped 3 tbsp harissa paste salt and pepper, to season flatbreads, to serve small fresh bunch of coriander, to garnish
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
honey & hariSSa ChiCken
1. Preheat the oven to 160°C. 2. Mix together the harissa paste, coconut milk, soy sauce, honey, chilli, ginger and garlic in a bowl. 3. Toss the chicken into the marinade and let it sit for 15 min. 4. Place the chicken, cinnamon stick, red onion, and sliced pepper in an ovenproof dish with the left-over marinade. 5. Place in the oven, covered with foil, for 1 hour. 6. Meanwhile, make the rice by placing the basmati rice with the coconut milk, water and salt in a pot over high heat. 7. Bring to the boil and then turn down the heat to a simmer. 8. Simmer for 10-12 min until the rice becomes soft. 9. Strain off the excess water and place the rice back into the pot. 10. Add the pistachio nuts, almonds, orange zest and torn mint leaves to the rice. 11. Then, remove the foil from the chicken dish, and return to the oven, uncovered for another 45 min. 12. Heat the rice and serve the chicken with pomegranate rubies.
Serves 6 ½ cup harissa paste ½ cup coconut milk ¼ cup soy sauce 3 tbsp honey 1 red chilli, chopped 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 2 cloves garlic, chopped 8 pieces of chicken, drumsticks & thighs 1 stick of cinnamon 1 red onion, cut into wedges
1 orange or red pepper, sliced 1 cup basmati rice 1 cup coconut milk 2 cups water 1 tbsp salt 30g pistachio nuts, shelled & roasted 30g flaked almond, roasted zest of 1 orange a handful of fresh mint leaves 30g pomegranate rubies
Soak the chickpeas in the water overnight. Drain them and rinse them under cold water. Heat a soup pot over medium heat and add the oil and then the onion. Fry the onion until translucent and add the salt. Add the cumin, paprika, chilli flakes, coriander and garlic and stir for 1 min. Add the tomatoes and cook for another 5 min. Then add the chickpeas and about 3 cups of water. Lower the heat and simmer for 20 min, until the chickpeas are soft. Stir in the harissa paste and blitz the soup with a handheld blender until the consistency is of a rough puree. 10. Add more water if it is too thick. 11. Season with salt and pepper, serve with toasted flatbreads and garnish with fresh coriander.
ShakShuka
Serves 3-4
½ tsp cumin 190ml olive oil 2 onions, sliced 2 red peppers, cored and sliced 2 yellow peppers, cored and sliced 2 tbsp brown sugar 2 bay leaves 6 sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped 2 tbsp fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped 6 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 tsp cayenne pepper salt and pepper 250ml water 6 free-range eggs flatbreads, to serve 2 tbsp harissa paste, to serve 3 4
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1. In a large pot, dry roast the cumin on high heat for 2 min. 2. Add the oil and sauté the onions for another 2 min. 3. Add the peppers, sugar, bay leaves, thyme, parsley and coriander, and cook on high heat until the peppers have a nice brown colour. 4. Add the tomatoes, cayenne pepper and season. 5. Simmer on low heat for 15 min until all the vegetables are soft, adding enough water to keep it the consistency of a pasta sauce. 6. Then, place four saucepans on medium heat and divide the mixture between each of them. 7. Break two eggs into each pan, pouring into gaps in the mixture. Sprinkle with salt, cover with a lid and cook very gently for 8-10 min, until the egg just sets. 8. Sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve with flatbreads and harissa paste.
Basorexia (noun) The overwhelming desire to kiss Bloos 2016
COUPON CODE
‘basorexia’ www.shopza.hpf1855.co.za
Wines of Origin Sondagskloof
Durbanville Estate Secrets Take
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W
ith only 12 wine estates in the Durbanville Wine Valley, I thought it would be easy to narrow down where to go for a day out in the Cape countryside. How wrong I was! My foray could take a week, as every wine estate deserves a lengthy stopover for all the delicious food, wine, as well as views and personal touches— which make them all the more special. Out of many possible groupings, and without leaving any estates out, I’ve chosen four day trips that visit three Durbanville wine estates in one day, each with a specific theme: 1. Wine & Food with a View: De Grendel, Durbanville Hills & Bloemendal 2. The Personal Touch: Klein Roosboom, Phizante Kraal & Altydgedacht. 3. Kids in Tow: Signal Gun, Nitida & D’Aria. 4. I Never Knew That: Diemersdal, Meerendal & Hillcrest.
1. Wine & Food With a VieW To my surprise, many Durbanville estates have commanding views over vast tracts of the Cape countryside, with Table Mountain often taking up much of the view. Admire it over lunch at De Grendel Wine Estate and Restaurant, where Welshman and Michelin Star Chef Jonathan Davies offers you heritage bias with hand-churned butter, pasture-raised meat and local ingredients. What makes it different? This restaurant was nominated for the inaugural World Luxury Restaurant Awards 2016. Competing for favour, as well as views, is Durbanville Hills Restaurant, so close to Cape Town you could even pop there for a business lunch. Modern and voluminous interiors lead to equally vast views from massive windows. It’s my choice for family lunches with a menu and prices to suit everyone. My next choice for food with views is Bloemendal’s Bon Amis Restaurant. They say their bistro classics of pan-seared
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Lunch with a view at De Grendel
Cassia Restaurant at Nitida
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Thai-style fishcakes and West Coast oysters, are “in love with their Sauvignon Blanc”. The Durbanville terroir certainly favours this grape as every estate vies with each other to perfect this varietal. Bloemendal’s south-facing vineyards, 350 metres above sea level and cooled by Atlantic breezes, provide ideal conditions for growth. So, too, thought the judges of 2015 Novare South African Terroir Wine Awards when they awarded the Bloemendal Suider Terras Sauvignon Blanc as the Top Sauvignon Blanc. 2. The PersoNal Touch It’s the stories you hear that make a day trip come alive. And there’s more opportunity in Durbanville Wine Valley to meet the owners and makers than at most large estates. I was tickled to learn how Karin de Villiers of Klein Roosboom Boutique Winery made her very first bubbly. We were sipping her Marné Brut MCC when she revealed her first attempt came about when a nearby cellar offered her space to fulfil her dream of making bubbly. She had the grapes and the cellar space, but no idea how to make wine. A weekend course set her on the right track and she made her first bubbly and two reds in 2007. “I’m a phonea-friend kind of winemaker,” she says with a big grin. And the result? Just two years later her 2009 Merlot was the National Winner in the Novare Terroir Awards. Phizante Kraal is another family owned farm, run by fifth generation Andre Brink. Unlike other estates in Durbanville, the wine is a very small part of this estate: mostly they farm cattle, sheep and grain. They say their winemaking is “almost like a hobby,” but what hobby gets their 2015 Sauvignon Blanc a Gold at the Veritas Awards? However, the honours need to be shared; while the grapes are grown at Phizante Kraal, the wine is made at Diemersdal by top winemaker Thys Louw. Dating back to 1698 is Altydgedacht, home to the Parker family since 1852 and farmed by fifth generation brothers. In 1815 it was said the area was “at the very extremity of the civilised world”. It still feels deep in the country, even though it’s only about five minutes from Durbanville town centre. They haven’t lasted this long without taking a few chances and making a success of it. They’re still marching to the beat of their own drum, making Italian varietal Barbera (rarely made in the Cape) and a bone-dry Gewürztraminer. 3. KIds IN Tow The whole family will enjoy the game drive up to the cannon on Signal Gun’s highest hill, passing zebra, wildebeest, prancing bokkies and unusually friendly ostriches along the way. On the very top you’ll not only enjoy views stretching from Table Mountain to Piketberg, but also come upon their highest vineyards where their rather exceptional Sea Smoke Sauvignon Blanc is grown. Sixth generation Signal Gun winemaker MJ De Wit is also passionate about making craft beer. And, he’s also
‘Every wine estate deserves a stopover for all the delicious food, wine, as well as views and personal touches’ come up with innovative pairings for their beverages, like beer and biltong, wine and chocolate, and wine and Turkish delight. For fun, try and be there for the cannon firing at noon every first Sunday of the month. The smallest and possibly the cutest wine estate in the Durbanville Wine Valley is family-friendly Nitida Cellars. One wonders: how does a small Durbanville property with a flock of 50 sheep, two cows and a sheepdog become one of South Africa’s most successful small wine cellars? Best go and taste their wine to find out. And, be sure to make a stop at Cassia or Tables at Nitida, where seasonal ingredients are aplenty and kids can play catch-me-if-you-can on the lawns. D’Aria Winery has several ways to keep kids happy, from a swimming pool at Poplars Restaurant to a jungle gym at the Tasting Room and decks overlooking the dam. It’s a popular wedding venue too, but also hosts music events, which surely pleases guitar-strumming winemakers. 4. I Never KNew ThaT Choosing places you’ve never been to before is a great way to approach a visit to Durbanville Wine Valley and will inevitably lead you to discover things you never knew before. Visiting Diemersdal Estate, I found out that six generations of Louws have practised their art at this Cape Dutch estate since 1885. And since that time, the family have maintained the tradition of naming the firstborn son Matthys Michael. There are currently three generations of Matthys Michaels on the farm and to distinguish them, Matthys Senior is nicknamed Tinnie, his son, the cellarmaster, is Thys and his son is Tinnie Junior, and thus the nicknames alternate each generation. Diemersdal Estate pride themselves on the fact that their wines represent “the perfect expression of the Durbanville terroir” and they offer no less than seven different Sauvignon Blancs—easily paired with the interesting tapas menu in the converted stables Farm Eatery. Deep-fried tempura waterblommetjie was my unlikely favourite. Take note: The farm’s Thursday steak nights are booked out six weeks in advance.
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One of Cassia’s delicious desserts
De Grendel’s artfully designed tasting room
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Another estate with stories is Meerendal, marrying grace and history with everything the modern visitor wants. Their current little secret is Project X, where they’ve done strange things with Pinotage grapes—hanging them to dry for 30 days before crushing and putting them in traditional open concrete fermenters. But it’s their sporting amenities that attract a special kind of visitor, mostly with clean shaven legs and twitching, toned calf muscles. The estate has an extensive network of trails for hiking, trail running and mountain biking. The world’s toughest mountain bike race, the Absa Cape Epic, started and finished at Meerendal this year, with Team Meerendal participating in the gruelling 654 kilometres. It’s altogether a much more sedate affair at Hillcrest Estate, which you may know for its wine and weddings, music concerts and Galileo open-air cinema events at the Quarry. But did you know Hillcrest make a rather tasty and affordable olive oil? I loved the peppery, grassy olive oil and the gentler tasting Green Mission olives and tapenade, rather than the stronger Black Mission and Kalamata, so I bought a selection. Our host Melinda then directed me to sample a strangely pungent olive jam. I got hints of silage cattle fodder on the nose and palate, and my New Zealander friend proclaimed it would never sell in rural New Zealand as it tasted too much like a farmyard. It’s true that Durbanville Wine Valley is very rural, yet it’s only 20 minutes from Cape Town. I admit to having neglected this area for spontaneous outings to the winelands in favour of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. But no longer. I’m now a Durbanville Wine Valley convert and already planning my next trip. GT
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Art and Design L ov e ly t h i ng s t o bu y, se e a n d d o
Colour Me Pretty Who says colouring-in is just for kids? Switch off your phone, grab a pot of tea and a biscotti, and enjoy the soothing sensation of colouring-in. We’re particularly fond of Leila Duly’s colouring-in book, Floribunda. The lovely Leila is a textile print designer and illustrator based in London and her fashion prints have been snapped up by some of the world’s top fashion brands. Leila’s work incorporates floral, natural and wildlife scenes developed from pencil sketches and hand-drawn in ink. Leila says she’s inspired by the English countryside, the flower markets near her home, and Victorian etchings. Floribunda features 20 illustrations of flowers to colour at your lazy leisure and is available at www.superbalist.com for R399.
Throw Your Weight Around Any plans tonight? We’ll be staying in with our beloved Country Road throw. Now, we’ve had a long-standing love affair with the throws that Country Road keeps churning out but, like every great love, this needs to be nurtured. And we also feel the need to spend some serious quality time with these guys over the next few wintery months. Be it on the couch, over the bed or keeping us warm on a chilly morning walk, we’ll be sure to put in the time with these cosy throws. Go to www.countryroad.co.za.
I
A Lil’ French Goes a Long Way Skinny laMinx’s latest (and possibly our favourite) collection Brise Soleil, is a French term which refers to an architectural screen—made of concrete or brick blocks— which provides shade from the sun. Literally meaning ‘break the sun’, brise soleil also provides ventilation, privacy, security and, of course, decoration. Brise soleil screens have been part of architecture in tropical regions for years, so when Modernist architects incorporated them into their work, they formed a big part of the Tropical Modern style that was all the rage in California. Heather Moore, says she’s a fan of the practical, non-electrical solution to a hot climate, and got Christmas-morning excited at how pretty patterns can arise through the repetition of very simple units. And that, folks, is how Skinny laMinx’s new range was born. Go to www.skinnylaminx.com.
Lamp
Nothing ties a room together like a little lighting. These Mink Table Lamps from South African brand Illumina will work lighting wonders on your desk, table or side table. It has a sleek geometric design that’ll add a modern touch to any space. Get your mitts on these Minks at www.illumina.co.za for R399 each.
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Coffee Table Book to Buy
Sticking with this French theme we’ve got going, Garance Doré is the epitome of French fashion whose knack for making it fun and accessible has captivated fashion loving folk around the world. A fashion A-lister, Garance takes a candid approach that’s pretty refreshing in the often snooty industry. Part-style guide, part-visual diary, the book also takes an intimate look into the world of one of fashion’s most powerful players. Garance surprised us by blending very personal storytelling with her trademark photos and illustrations in a unique narrative journey. A charmingly addictive read that inspired us to rethink our wardrobe more than (dare we say it) The Devil Wears Prada. Love x Style x Life is available at Exclusive Books for R569. THE TO
WOR D
THE
BASALT
ORGANIC
M AKES
M ATT
BLACK
COMPOUND
THAT
VERY
COLLECTION
FIRST
CER A MIC
HAS
R EFER ENCE VOLCANIC
INSPIR ED OF
JACQUES’
BLACK
TA BL EWA R E
There’s No Time Like the Present One of our best places to buy gifts for our favourite favourites is PRESENTspace in Gardens, Cape Town. What first started off as a temporary pop-up shop, quickly attracted all kinds of hungry-for-more buyers with its highly curated mix of ohso-beautiful goods. Since it first opened its doors, owner Lolla Orchard says she’s all about supporting small, local designers rather than buying something from a department store. Hear, hear, Lolla! A word to the wise: You may end up buying more gifts for yourself than others. The best way to see what heart-skipping stock the store has is to follow them on Instagram @PRESENTspaceCT.
Another Thing to Love About Parkhurst If you want a feast for the stomach and for the eyes, pop in to see the new home collection store, BASALT at Hemelhuijs restaurant. With an obsession for quality and craftsmanship, owner Jacques Erasmus has embarked on another creative journey, by opening the new standalone homeware store and home gallery. From 400-yearold Chinese ceramics to bespoke tableware collections, you’ll find the most beautiful selection of handcrafted items. Find Basalt at 4th Avenue, Parkhurst, Johannesburg.
Riebeek Kasteel, We’re Coming for You Set to take place over the weekend of 29-31 July in one of South Africa’s oldest towns, Riebeek Kasteel, Solo Studios is a rather clever collaboration between artists, art curators and galleries based in the area, and aims to provide an opportunity for art lovers, buyers and collectors to visit artists in their studios and to view and purchase their art. Go to www.solostudios.co.za.
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Girl Interrupted WE
TALK
THIS
SHOP
WITH
MON T H ’S
T
ell us how you became an artist? I’ve been interested in the arts since I can remember. My earliest memory is going on a field trip to Ontario’s Blue Water Bridge with my third grade class. We were given sketch pads and pencils. I remember my teacher showing my drawing to the class. It made me so proud. It was the moment that determined my future. And the rest of your schooling? In high school I paid almost no attention to maths, science, history or geography. I saved all my energy for the important classes: art and drama. Your work is described as ‘fantasy portraiture’. What brings you to this style? I’ve gone through so many stages
with my work, but what’s stayed the same throughout all the years is my subject matter. I’m very interested in our culture’s obsession with fashion. What is it about fashion that you like so much? Fashion is the most widely-used tool to express individuality. I like that there are literally no limits to what I can come up with and create. How has becoming a mom changed your art, or the way you see things? Well, so far it hasn’t really affected the way I
see art, or my work. Though my daughter has changed how I view everyday life. I’m much more aware of time, and how fast it goes. 4 4
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JENNY LIZ ROME,
COVER
ARTIST
Do ideas ever come to you in the middle of the night, or do you research them? I research a ton. Many times I’ll get
a random picture in my head, and I’ll go on a crazy image binge search to make sense of my idea. What materials and techniques do you use? My work used to be a blend of collage, painting and drawing. Now I’m leaning more towards digital drawing. I use a Wacom tablet, and I am completely in love with it. How do you get out of a creative funk? I give myself a few days break. This allows me to tackle a project with fresh eyes. Or I have a BIG glass of wine. What do you do during your downtime? I love to camp, and I’m obsessed with rearranging my furniture. I really enjoy tennis—and mint chocolate chip ice cream. Not together, though, but, I wouldn’t be all that opposed to the idea either. What’s your studio like? I currently work from home. I’m tucked into a small corner of the house with a wooden table, my Mac, my Wacom and my sketch book. It’s all I really need. Jenny lives in Ontario, Canada and has been married for almost two years. She has one daughter, two cats, a small house, a big pool, and too many houseplants.
From left clockwise: Bird Brained Babe, War Paint Romona, Robot Rock and Bright Pink Part 2. Opposite page: Splat, Pisces, War Paint Sally. Find out more and buy Jenny’s work at www.jennylizrome.com and www.society6.com
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The smoking glass cloche is one of the signature cocktail experiences called ‘Highlands’
The Gentlemen’s Arthouse Th e r e’s 4 6
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in
Town
The Gentlemen’s Arthouse hosts evenings every Thursday—before extending the offering to weekends later in the year. The venue is also available for hire for corporate and private functions from Fridays to Wednesdays. For bookings and more information, email reservations@gentlemensarthouse.com
PhotograPhy by Mariska van den brink froM Mrsk
P
reviously a little rough around the edges, Newtown’s rep is now on the up and up. And, at the heart of this suburb’s revamp, is The Gentlemen’s Arthouse. Owners Maira and John Koutsoudakis of the LIFE Group (the development group behind Grand Cafe) bring us the latest swanky space on Jozi’s scene. Transforming the original Edwardian Washrooms built in 1911, this plush set up still makes use of some of the washroom’s original—and stylish—relics. “We’ve searched for the right spot for this project for years, and the Edwardian Washrooms is the perfect location for a truly mesmerising concept,” says Maira. Step inside and one of the first things you’ll notice is the emerald green tiles salvaged from this heritage site. If only those tiles could talk. After some serious scrubbing even the old urinals have been converted into rows of throne-like seats. “We’re all about heritage, respecting what has come before and enhancing it with what’s current to create an engaging space that has a lot of soul,” explains Maira. Sit back on a deep-button ottoman, or rest against the ornate hand-moulded brass bar, and you’ll soon soak up the aristocrat-like atmosphere. Adding to the spot’s dapper demeanour is cathedral-style windows, framed with heavy velvet teal curtains that fall to the floor. Apart from ogling at the opulent décor, best you try one of their talked-about molecular cocktails or something special cooked up by executive chef Jeanel Pieterse. Feel like dinner and a show? While trying their Crocodile Ceviche or Crispy Crudo Cones, you might be lucky enough to see Victorian ladies descending from the ceiling and performing various trapeze acts. We hear there’s a further lineup of crazy cats and acrobats set to perform on other nights of the week.
‘We’re all about heritage; respecting what has come before and enhancing it with what’s current to create an engaging space that has a lot of soul’
“It’s like raising a family” AVON DA L E’S JOH N AT H A N G R I E V E DUCKS (AND OTHER THINGS)
HIS
When was the first time you realised you could make wine as a career?
If I look back, I think I’ve always meant to be doing this. I can remember growing vegetables when I was around six years old and selling them to all my parents’ friends. It seems growing grapes and making wine has always been in my stars. What do you truly love about your job?
We grow grapes in an extraordinary way, and the beauty of making wine is that you can see the progression of this in the bottle. It’s like raising a family and seeing how each one develops, changes and grows up. Finish this sentence: Wine is best enjoyed with…
My wife, while eating homemade Indonesian seafood curry in front of a roaring fire and listening to Nina Simone. Then again, if you asked me this tomorrow I might suggest something different… Our Latin is a little rusty … what does Terra Est Vita mean?
Terra Est Vita means ‘soil is life’. We know that for the land and for our endeavours to thrive, every aspect of our living system must also thrive. Everything we do is based on a living, vibrant soil. At the end of the day, soil is the cornerstone of all that we do at Avondale. 4 8
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HAS IN
A
ALL ROW
You coined the phrase BioLOGIC®. Please elaborate.
Avondale is certified organic, and we practice bio-dynamic agriculture. The BioLOGIC® approach means we go beyond both these beneficial systems of natural farming by using the latest science, technology and knowledge. Viticulture is monoculture and we try to mitigate the environmental impact of single crop growing by emulating nature’s ways of sustaining an ecosystem. Do you have a secret spot on the farm you escape to?
Whenever I need a bit of time to think, you’ll find me with our cattle. Lying in the field, looking up at the clouds and having the cows gather around renews my energy, it’s when I really bond with nature. Speaking of animals, tell us about the duck run?
Ah, Avondale’s famous duck posse. Perhaps the most picturesque of our natural pest management methods is the employment of a gang of glossy white Pekin ducks who waddle through the vineyards on snail patrol. From young, these ducks voluntarily gather in the custom-made ‘duck-mobile’ and go out each weekday to do their work. They happily waddle between the vines and forage for snails. It means we don’t have to resort to poisonous bait. We’ve recently added some chickens, one little hen will peck your shoes until you pick her up.
Which wine are you most proud of?
That’s a difficult question to answer; it’s like trying to choose my favourite child. Currently the Cyclus, our white blend, comes to mind—probably because we recently did a couple of vertical tastings of the 2009 to 2013 vintages, and it was incredible to see how well the wine can age and what people had to say about the blend. Your gravity-flow cellar sounds like it’s from outer space. How does it differ from your average cellar?
Firstly, it’s underground, which helps tremendously with the natural temperature control and, thankfully, our electricity bill. Secondly, everything flows by gravity, which means when the grapes are being handled and during fermentation we don’t need to pump at all. There are no harsh actions on the grape pips and skins and that results in really soft tannins in the wine. Besides wine, ducks, chickens and cows, what else can’t you live without?
I’m a family man, happily married with two wonderful children, all very close to my heart.
Johnathan’s Selection TRY
THESE
WINES
LA LUNA 2009 Layers of mineral intense fruit, infused with gentle tannins are uplifted with fresh acidity, uniting in a glorious fusion of full-bodied flavour. The dark purple colour is infused with classic berry flavours and a hint of tobacco. CYCLUS 2013 With a soft, rich nose of violets and peach, and just a hint of frangipani, Cyclus holds all the promise of a quality white blend. This is beautifully carried through to the palate where the intense flavours of pear, pineapple, apricot and fig are rounded off with smooth, subtle oak for a creamy, longstructured finish. ARMILLA BLANC DE BLANC MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 2009 Armilla is rich and round on the palate: a perfect balance of toasty, warm hazelnut bread and fresh quince and gardenia. The fresh effervescent acidity is crisp and lively on the palete; complemented by a full, velvety mouthfeel–layer after layer after layer.
Johnathan lives on Avondale. His family has three mad Australian cattle dogs, a small heard of cows, a 100 or so ducks, and some crazy chickens.
About AVONDALE
Extraordinary Wines approved by Mother Nature. Avondale’s ethos, Terra Est Vita,, means ‘Soil is Life’, and encapsulates how Avondale Estate is a dynamic living system where soil, water, plants, animals, people, and even their buildings, are part of a complex web of relationships and networks working together in harmony. Avondale’s commitment to promoting life not only leads to Mother Nature’s nod of approval, it also ensures the premium quality of Avondale’s unique and naturally made slow wines. The vigour of their well-tended vines leads to grapes bursting with fresh flavours, evident in the farm’s individually styled, classic wines.
Give these wines a try. Call us on 086 111 9463 to order.
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At the Core of Craft Cider ‘Elgin, thE homE of craft s o u t h a f r ic a’s a p p l E t r E E
cidEr
,
is
kingdom
’
By Malu laMBert · PhotograPhy C&D heierli
W
hen apple trees talk: they tell you how they love sunshine and bees. They ask us not to manipulate nature. They want their fruit to make real, unadulterated cider. Elgin, the home of craft cider, is South Africa’s apple tree kingdom. “So when the trees talk here, you listen.” This is just the thinking behind Cluver & Jack Cider made from freshlypressed apple juice. It’s a meeting of two farming families, Paul Cluver of De Rust Farm in Elgin and Bruce Jack of Appelsdrift Farm in the Overberg. De Rust has been farming apples (and grapes) for over five generations. Not to forget they also make premium wine under the label, Paul Cluver. Framed against an orchard, Paul Cluver says, “We definitely
know about growing apples, we know how to juice apples, too. What we didn’t know much about was cider-making.” But Bruce Jack did. Long-time friends, the pair teamed up. Bruce’s great-grandfather was one of the first to plant cider apple trees in South Africa, and Bruce himself has been making cider for years. It was a no-brainer. Plus, they both have a habit of talking to trees. Paul starts popping the caps off bottles of Cluver & Jack. The label is beautifully illustrated, and states: ‘not from concentrate’. “It’s important to know the difference between the ciders made from concentrate versus those made from freshly-pressed apple juice,” says Paul. Commercial ciders—and some craft ciders—are made with an apple concentrate solution. This difference in methodology creates a price disparity. “You pay more for orange juice than you do for Oros,” puts Paul. “The scary thing about apple concentrate is you don’t know
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what apples have gone in, or where they’ve come from. It’s also not always 100 per cent apple, a lot of it is bulked up with sugar cane.” Apparently, South African law states that in order to call a product a ‘cider’, only 80 per cent of the base product needs to be apple-derived. Apple concentrate is colourless and odourless. When making apple concentrate, the first thing that escapes is the aroma, this is then captured, and added back in. The colour of the resulting beverage will come from adding molasses, as well as oxidation. Imagine a winery rehydrating raisins and then making wine from the result? “Craft for me is about authenticity, part of that is to say, I actually know what’s in my bottle,” says Paul. So what do they use? “We use a blend of apples. Different apples bring different components to the final product, almost like making a Bordeaux-style blend. The Granny Smith brings acidity, the Royal Gala some sweetness…” The making of a cider is simple enough. The most complicated part is actually pressing the juice. You need to have the right equipment, aka a belt press (or at least access to it), which could explain why some ‘craft’ cider producers use concentrate. Though, it’s not all concentrate-bashing. South Africa has the second largest cider market in the world (yes, Britain reigns), and that’s all thanks to the commercial cider market—which has opened the door for the smaller producers. That, and craft beer, says Paul, created a whole new market. As a parting remark, Paul says: “Cider’s gluten free; so if you can’t drink beer, you can drink cider.” There are currently five cider producers in Elgin. There are talks of making it an official cider route—but until that happens, we’ve created our own. Our next stop is the Peregrine Farm Stall, where Everson’s Cider has a popup tasting stand. Bearded and wearing a trucker cap, Michael Everson greets us. Son of garagiste winemaker and cider-maker, William Everson, Michael styles himself as his dad’s apprentice.
A couple of cold ones
‘Craft for me is about authenticity, part of that is to say, I actually know what’s in my bottle’—Paul Cluver Apple trees as far as the eye can see
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Pull up a chair at Everson’s
Michael says they specialise in classical winestyle cider, which his dad went to go learn to make in Hertfordshire in the UK at age 60. “We do the full spectrum—from bone dry to blended ciders,” says Michael. He readies a tasting for us. Pouring different ciders into small glasses, with a side of crisps. “We’re traditional cider-makers, but we’re also exploring the possibilities of what the fruit can do.” “Ingredients are the most important. We use up to five different types of Elgin apples to be exact.” We taste through the range—classic apple, pear, cloudy apple—and end off with a mulled cider. This cider was blended by hand with the addition of spice-infused cloudy apple juice. “I literally stand there stirring whole spices in this great big pot,” says Michael. Though that’s not all. There’s also an apple and pear cider aged in brandy casks, a Cripps Pink apple single varietal cider, and even a still scrumpy cider, called Gnarr. “Traditionally in England, cider is still,” says Michael. Just outside Sxollie’s train station tasting room, we catch Laura Clacey lugging a crate of Sxollie Cider. All smiles, she hustles (as we later learn, is what a Sxollie is all about) us to an outside table overlooking the train platform. Laura co-founded Sxollie together with husband, Karol Ostaszewski. They make a range of single varietal cider with apples from Elgin. Their approach is simple: freshly-pressed apple juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks. They add champagne yeasts, and then they carbonate. “Carbonation adds length and gives backbone,” says Laura, pouring a glass of the Granny Smith. “We give it a subtle bubble.” (All effervescent ciders are carbonated unless they’ve
‘Ingredients are the most important. We use up to five different types of Elgin apples to be exact’—Michael Everson
‘We’re all about the opportunistic and playful spirit of urban Africa’ —Laura Clacey
How do you like them apples? Sxollie’s train station tasting room
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been made in the same method as champagne.) Sxollie is on a mission. “We’re trying to be a global brand. To be a positive business story in South Africa. We’re all about the opportunistic and playful spirit of urban Africa. “From both a branding and flavour profile, we’re trying to fly the flag for South African cider. We don’t believe you always have to look abroad for inspiration. “It hasn’t all been plain sailing, which is why we call our brand ‘Sxollie’, you’ve got to hustle to make it.” The other single varietals they do are Golden Delicious and Packham Pear Perry. “The flavour profiles can vary from batch to batch, just like wine vintages. “You can appreciate it as you would a wine—but you can simply enjoy it for what it is, a refreshing cider," says Laura. Our winding path, bordered by apple orchards and wine estates, now leads us to Terra Madre—and to the exuberant Nicole Precoudis. We walk up the path to her apple farm (incidentally, the one other cider-maker, Windermere, lives opposite, also on an apple farm). “I have a very serious love and passion for food,” says Nicole. The proof of this statement is all around; from the vigorous vegetable patches and numerous food products she makes (including incredible charcuterie), to the barn she’s currently converting into a ‘foodbarn’ for the public. Nicole is originally from Johannesburg where she ran a couple of successful restaurants. “I’m living my dream. I didn’t realise, though, that it was going to be on an apple farm!” And because she’s in apple land, this serious foodie, of course, had to make a cider. But not just any. The Terra Madre Pommes Classique is a bottle-fermented cider made in the same method as champagne. This special ‘apple champagne’ is a collaboration with her good friend Ian Downie. Nicole’s personality pops, and so does her cider. We drink refreshing glasses with her in the apple orchard—and if these trees could talk, they’d likely be saying; craft cider rules. GT
Prepared with love and wholesome local produce
Pop a bottle of Terra Madre
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Private Family Cellar FROM THE HISTORICAL TERROIR, COMES SUPERB WINES
P. O. B O X 1 1 1 , T U L B A G H . 6 8 2 0 • C E L L : 0 8 2 8 2 9 8 4 0 4 • E M A I L : s w a n e p o e l @ i n t e k o m . c o . z a
www.diemersdal.co.za
“Six Generations, One Passion”
Book Review
Alex lAtimer shows
how
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Unseen City
r econnect
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nAthAnAel Johnson urbAn
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often take my daughter to school in the mornings. We live in a coastal valley and our road bends as it descends toward the sea—it is only once we pass the bend that we get a good look at the bay. Some days there are huge grey naval ships churning their way across our view, or a submarine—which is always a highlight. But what I’m always on the lookout for are dolphins. My daughter has not seen dolphins in the sea before, or at least she doesn’t remember seeing any—and so my latest mission is to identify a pod. The drive to her school takes us along a two-kilometre stretch of road flanked by the sea—and I drive with one eye fixed on the water and the other on the traffic. Some mornings the sea is flat and shiny and every blemish on the surface is immediately evident, but other mornings it feels as though the waves are trying to wash the road away. The foam and the swell make wildlife viewing difficult. Nevertheless, all the time, I’m watching. It was last week, when the sea was glassy and the sky was overcast, that I thought I’d spotted dolphins. Three pods of them. Two were far out in the bay, each with perhaps fifty 5 8
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animals in them, their black fins breaking the surface. The third pod was smaller and shyer and closer to shore. I turned off the road and parked at the overlook and we got out of the car. “There,” I said, “those are dolphins.” We stayed and watched, trying to get a better view of them, waiting to get a sense of their direction. They appeared to be coming closer. “They’re jumping out,” my daughter said and I scanned across to the other pod and it was true. And that’s when I noticed something odd about them. They were too dark and too small to be dolphins, though not being a dolphin expert, I figured perhaps these were simply darker, smaller dolphins than I was used to seeing during my childhood in the Eastern Cape. I was well aware that we’d be late for school if we stayed too long, but I wanted a better look. And then there, in the closest pod to us, one of the creatures leapt out of the water. They were seals! Again, I’m not a biologist or a marine mammal expert —but I have never before seen so many seals out in the open like that. Between the three pods there were well over a hundred of them. I watched for signs of
predators—something that had chased them away from Seal Island, but there were none that I could see. We stayed for a few more minutes, watching them cross the bay, occasionally jumping out. And then we got back in the car and headed to school. What a way to start the day. We are very lucky to live so close to the sea and to be able to scan our bay for southern right whales and orcas and dolphins and seals, and even great white sharks (I’ve seen two big ones cruising past our beach). But as Nathanael Johnson points out in his latest book Unseen City: The Majesty of Pigeons, the Discreet Charm of Snails & Other Wonders of the Urban Wilderness—you don’t need to be living near a beach or a nature reserve to appreciate nature. His journey into discovering the wildlife around him also began with his daughter. He’d take her out for walks around the neighbourhood and she’d point to things, and Nathanael would have to name them. But he reached a point where the process got too repetitive—he kept saying ‘tree’ for every tree she pointed at and so he made a rule for himself: to never give the same name twice on a walk. When his daughter pointed at a tree he’d say ‘branch’ or ‘leaves’ or ‘flowers’—and the more he dissected the world around him the more he realised that he knew very little about what he was pointing at. What were those little fruits? What ate them? When did this particular tree blossom? And so he began the process of learning more about the plants and trees and animals he encountered. The more he learned, the more he discovered there was to learn. His aim was not to focus on the celebrity animals—staying in San Francisco, he could easily have tried to wow his daughter with an urban mountain lion sighting. But instead, he wowed her with the everyday nature that co-exists in cities with us all. There’s hardly a dirtier and more ubiquitously invisible animal in our urban landscape than the pigeon. They are everywhere. But these mangy beggars weren’t always pests. They were once the pride of the ruling class—country estates were often built with specially designed pigeon coops. It was only after WWII, when the industrialisation of food production brought with it a tidal wave of food scraps—that the pigeon population exploded. Suddenly they were common. The elite lost their fondness for pigeons as the ‘sky rats’ spread from city to city. Honestly, pigeons are gross. They’re mangy and lice-
‘Pigeons see in ultraviolet, they hear sounds we can’t, they are hypersensitive to atmospheric pressure and they can navigate using the earth’s magnetism. Super birds indeed’ ridden and worst of all—as though that weren’t enough, they also produce pigeon milk. Yes, you read that correctly. Johnson points out that pigeons produce a white cheese-like substance in their crop, which they then feed to their young. It’s not exactly mammal milk, but it plays the same role—protein-rich, immune-boosting baby food. Gross right? And yet, pigeons are also remarkable. They see in ultraviolet, they hear sound way outside our own range of hearing, they are hyper-sensitive to atmospheric pressure and they are somehow able to navigate using the earth’s magnetism. They’re super birds. In fact, most of their disgusting habits are largely thanks to humans. By feeding pigeons, as some folk do, their numbers swell so much that individual urban pigeons are often on the very edge of survival. Ever wondered why they’re so callous in picking up scraps? They’re desperate. Their nests, when built properly over years, are comprised of not only sticks but also loads of acidic guano—this environment acts as a bug killer and prevents pigeons from carrying a range of parasites. The scraggly-looking bug-infested ones are probably sleeping rough thanks to limited roosting space. But pigeons are only the beginning of Johnson’s exploration— in Urban City he takes us into the world of snails and crows and ants and edible weeds. And, best of all, he encourages us to get out there and see the world for ourselves. His advice is always down to earth—none of this hipster survivalist or puritan naturalist rubbish. His intrigue with the wild urban landscape is genuine and contagious and accessible. We live in a time when we are disconnected from the land on which we live. We move from house to house and city to city. But reconnecting with nature needn’t be a yearly pilgrimage to Kruger National Park or Plett. All that is really required is a change of attitude. (Oh. He does also recommend a jeweller’s loupe, a pair of binoculars and a local guide book, but he’s the first to admit that these aren’t essential.) Unseen City: The Majesty of Pigeons, the Discreet Charm of Snails & Other Wonders of the Urban Wilderness by Nathanael Johnson. Rodale Press Inc, R474. goodtaste.co.za
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Rev Rap MOTORING
MATTER
-OF-FACTS
WO R D S BY S t u a r t J o h n s to n
South Africa’s Quickest Topless Model
Volvo’s Twin Engine XC90 T8
Ferrari, the world’s most famous supercar brand, has launched the quickest topless supercar to be seen on South African shores. The delectable 488 Spider can accelerate from zero to 100km/h in three seconds, while from standstill to 200km/h takes just eight seconds—the kind of acceleration that has your eyes watering, let alone clutching at any wayward clothing items. Raising or lowering the top takes longer—about 14 seconds—while the plummeting effect this has on your bank account will be to the tune of around R5,5-million.
SA’s Most Prestigious Concours d’ Elegance Concours South Africa will be held at Sun City from 9-11 September, with 300 cars expected to vie for top honours in this inaugural high-end show ’n shine event. The organisers are catering to top-level supercars, such as Ferraris, Porsches, Lamborghinis and Maseratis, while a full contingent of classic cars, muscle-cars and street rods will also be on show. “Concours South Africa will be a unique event to be enjoyed by the whole family, with petrol-heads able to enjoy like-minded company over an unforgettable weekend,” says organiser Ross Crichton, a well-known supercar aficionado. “We plan to make this event as prestigious as the legendary Pebble Beach event in California.”
It’s all about the up
On the Up and Up! Volkswagen has launched four-door versions of its stylish little up! entry-level hatchback, which has been on sale here since early 2015. VWSA has sold some 3 500 units of the two-door hatch, and the advent of the four-door model will increase its appeal considerably. Along with the two extra portals, VW now offers two lifestyle versions known as the cross up! and the colour up!, lower-case nomenclature fully intentional! These still make use of the basic three-cylinder 1,0-litre engine, which to date has proved adequate for this small car. Prices range from R156 800 to R185 000 for the classy up! range.
Two Engines—One for Each Set of Wheels Volvo’s newly-launched XC90 T8 Twin Engine is the Swedish
Mazda MX5
DID YOU KNOW?
The Mazda MX-5 is the world’s bestselling roadster, or open sports car, with over one million sold worldwide since 1989. The latest fourthgeneration car has been available here since late 2015.
company’s first plug-in hybrid model to be introduced here. It uses a four-cylinder engine that’s both turbocharged and supercharged to drive the front wheels, while an electric motor drives the rear wheels. Volvo launches this car as the only seven-seater hybrid on the market—the packaging of the battery has been achieved in the transmission tunnel, and has little intrusion on overall passenger or luggage space. The battery system can be recharged at home without the need for any expensive home-charging devices. But the car can also be run in various modes to enable on-the-go re-charging of the battery. The fully equipped luxury SUV costs R1 053 400. Volvo claims that in ideal conditions petrol consumption can drop as low as 2,1 litres/100km. goodtaste.co.za
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‘ALCOHOL IS LIKE LOVE. THE FIRST KISS IS MAGIC, THE SECOND IS INTIMATE, THE THIRD IS ROUTINE. A FTER THAT YOU TAKE THE GIRL’S CLOTHES OFF’
IMAGE THIS PAGE: RAYMOND CHANDLER | OPPOSITE PAGE: EDGAR ALLAN POE
–Raymond Chandler
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The Genius in a Bottle A wry look at the drinking habits of fa mous wr iters
BY DAVID BIGGS · ILLUSTRATIONS L AUREN DE SOUSA
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istory doesn’t tell us how much William Shakespeare drank or what his favourite tipple was, but it’s clear from his writing that he was well acquainted with the fruit of the vine. His version of the famous ‘In Vino Veritas’ quote was: “The wine-cup is the little silver bell, where truth, if truth there be, doth dwell.” It should be noted that the ‘wine-cups’ of Shakespeare’s day were not the prissy little things they serve up in modern pubs. They were proper mugs. Ben Jonson, writing at about the same time, said, “Wine is the milk of Venus”. Milk came in buckets and jugs in his day, not little plastic sachets. Long before Shakespeare’s time, the Persian philosopher poet, Omar Khayyam, wrote: “Here with a book of verse, a flask of wine and thou beside me, singing in the wilderness, and
wilderness is paradise enow.” (Translated into modern language, that goes: “Gimme a bird and a bottle and I’m a happy dude.”) Khayyam also pondered a good question: “I often wonder what the vintners buy one half as precious as the goods they sell.” More recently, the drinking habits of writers have been well documented—and sometimes they make for mind-blowing reading. Dylan Thomas enjoyed a bottle or two of Old Grand-Dad Whiskey and once bragged that he had downed 40 pints of beer in a row. The night before he died he left his lover, Elizabeth Reitell, in bed at 2am and returned some time later, telling her he had just drunk 18 whiskies. (He may possibly have lost count somewhere along the way.) Oscar Wilde is quoted as having said, “Drink is the curse of the writing classes,” but judging by the output of inebriated authors, drink doesn’t seem too bad a stimulus. Many famous writers have been heavy drinkers and some have claimed that alcohol is the only cure for writer’s block. goodtaste.co.za
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When Raymond Chandler was commissioned to write the script for the film Blue Dahlia in 1945, he suffered a complete case of writer’s block. In desperation, he eventually shut himself in his study and was found some hours later, passed out face down at his desk, surrounded by empty bottles and with the completed, typed script neatly stacked beside him. Chandler once said, “There are no bad whiskeys; only some whiskeys that are not as good as others.” The prolific writer Stephen King is said to have lived in constant fear of losing his writing talent, so he drowned his anxieties in generous quantities of alcohol and the words kept flowing. “There was never a time when the goal wasn’t to get as hammered as possible,” he once said. “I never understood social drinking. To me that seemed like kissing your sister.” Jesus is on record as having changed water into wine; it seems many authors have the miraculous talent of changing wine into words. It’s hard to think of a single modern writer who did not have a warm relationship with the bottle. The mournful poet Edgar Allan Poe was typical of the boozy breed and was known to drink a bottle of brandy at a sitting. No wonder his poetry is filled with gloom. He probably suffered from what Afrikaans speakers would call “dronkverdriet.” (Booze depression.) His raven may have croaked “nevermore,” but that certainly didn’t apply to his drinking. Oscar Wilde spent a lot of his time in Paris, where he learned to drink absinthe and seemed to enjoy the hallucinations it gave
‘A LWAYS DO SOBER WHAT YOU SAID YOU’D DO DRUNK. THAT WILL TEACH YOU TO KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT’ –Ernest Hemingway
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‘THERE ARE NO BAD WHISKIES ; ONLY SOME WHISKIES THAT ARE NOT AS GOOD AS OTHERS’
–Raymond Chandler
him. (In those days absinthe was a far fiercer drink than the stuff produced today by former South African David NathanMaister, now the king of the modern absinthe world and a resident of Monaco.) Another of Wilde’s passions–and he had many–was Champagne, which he consumed in immoderate quantities, even in his most difficult times. Ian Fleming, creator of the super-spy James Bond, is said to have downed a bottle of gin a day until his doctor recommended that he switch to bourbon whiskey, which was thought to be slightly less harmful. (What is it about whisky–or whiskey–that makes it the favourite tipple of the medical profession?) A 2013 university study of James Bond’s drinking habits worked out that the fictitious hero consumed between 65 and 95 units of alcohol a week. This is four times the recommended maximum. It’s a wonder he was still able to perform so well, particularly in bed. Shakespeare famously warned alcohol increases the desire but removes the performance. This doesn’t seem to have applied in Bond’s case. The chaps with breathalysers obviously couldn’t catch up with 007’s Aston Martin. F Scott Fitzgerald’s preferred drink was gin because he claimed it could not be detected on his breath. It may have contributed to his literary output but it certainly ruined his marriage to Zelda. After it broke up he wrote to her: “We ruined each other.” Gin ruined them both. (In case you’re interested, Fitzgerald drank his gin with lime juice and soda in a tall glass, garnished with a big slice of lime.) William Faulkner is quoted as saying: “A man shouldn’t fool with booze until he’s fifty, and then he’s a damn fool if he doesn’t.” He certainly didn’t live by that rule and ‘fooled’ with alcohol long before he reached 50. Faulkner’s favourite drink was Jack Daniels and he seldom went anywhere without a bottle close at hand. He claimed it was an essential part of his creative process. One of his favourite drinks was a mint julep—whiskey, sugar, ice and crushed fresh mint all muddled together in a metal cup. Then there’s “Papa” Ernest Hemingway, a legend in the annals of literary drinking. Hemingway’s drinking was as varied as it was prolific. It seems he would drink anything that came his way.
The German-American poet Charles Bukowski wrote of him: “While there are many literary giants who drank as well as they wrote, Ernest Hemingway may be the all time champ.” Papa Hemingway liked cocktails and his literary characters are seldom without a bottle, glass or wineskin in their hands. An interesting thing about him, however, is he claimed he never drank while working. He firmly denied the rumour that he took a pitcher of martinis to work with him every morning. “Jesus Christ! Have you ever heard of anyone who drank while he worked?” he is quoted as saying. “You’re thinking of Faulkner. He does sometimes—and I can tell right in the middle of a page when he’s had his first one. Besides, who in hell would mix more than one martini at a time?” Hemingway’s favourite drink was indeed a dry martini–15 parts gin to one of vermouth–served freezing cold. “So cold it sticks to your fingers.” He was so obsessed with coldness that he even froze the Spanish onions he used to garnish his martinis. While he was in hospital recovering from his war wounds he would persuade friends to smuggle bottles of vermouth
into his hospital ward. He is also reputed to have invented the Bloody Mary. Once when he was recuperating he was not allowed any alcohol and his wife Mary made every effort to see he stuck to this rule. He discovered he could get away with drinking tomato juice liberally laced with vodka. This way he fooled his “bloody wife” and gave the cocktail its name. (This story has been denied by the bartender ‘Pete’ Petiot of Harry’s Bar in Paris, who claims the honour of creating the drink, but why spoil a good story because of mere facts?) On his boat, Pilar, Hemingway’s favourite drink was a Vermouth Panache, a blend of sweet and dry vermouth with Angostura Bitters. Served ice cold, of course. The habit of mixing wine and words goes back to the earliest of civilised times. Next time somebody tells you they’re going to a “symposium” don’t be fooled into thinking it’s an exchange of serious business ideas. The word symposium comes from the old Greek words meaning to drink together (think sympathy and potable). In ancient Greece friends would gather to drink wine and recite poetry–a symposium. After a few preparatory mugs of the good stuff each person would add a new line to the poem, trying to cap the previous one. A symposium was a sort of wine-fuelled poetry marathon, which doesn’t sound like a bad idea at all. Maybe it’s time the tradition was rekindled. In the interests of honesty, I must confess this article was fuelled by three quarters of a bottle of De Krans Cape Ruby, and it was not consumed from a prissy little port glass. It is important that literary traditions are upheld.
‘Pouring out liquor is like burning books’ –William Faulkner
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The continuity of four generations, the knowledge gained from day to day, hands-on Joubert family involvement, and an intimate understanding of their terroir, all combine to reflect the integrity of their wines
Each bottle filled with pride for your enjoyment Available at leading retailers or direct from the Estate
Contact 021 875 5936 | Email wine@nieljoubert.co.za | www.nieljoubert.co.za
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Top of the World
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very country must have a wine that it’s uniquely associated with,” said the then chairman of the Masters of Wine (MW), Serena Sutcliffe, when they visited South Africa in 1995. I always remembered that because it seemed so sensible, so right. She then talked about two varieties, one red and one white, with which we are “uniquely associated”. Chenin Blanc and Pinotage had grabbed the attention of the MWs. Those were heady days for the South African wine industry; we had been newly re-admitted to the international wine market and were the flavour of the month, which explains why the MWs were here. And we listened. The Chenin Blanc Association was formed, we aimed first at the international market and made our name with Chenin in both the top end of the market as well as in the everyday market. Soon Chenin could be found in some very posh, upmarket restaurants and wine bars, and also on every supermarket shelf in the UK. Regarding Pinotage, the MWs said we had a good feel for the variety and had a good grip on terroir and styles, and were going in the right direction. We were made. Wine-of-the-Month Club found many brilliant wines, wines that shone. Chenin Blanc : It’s South Africa’s favourite wine, it’s our best friend, it’s what we turn to again and again, but what’s
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happening? It’s letting us down, big time, that’s what. In the Noughties, we beat the French on their home turf in the Rendez-vous du Chenin competitions where we won every dry wine category. Looking at comments over the last six months of Chenin tastings, the word “disappointing” keeps cropping up, then we see “mixed bag” which amounts to an improvement! Clive is forthright, “Chenin is not being treated like the royalty that it is, instead it’s being treated badly.” It’s a refrain picked up by others, “Not enough complexity for a great variety and Chenin is a great variety. I was looking for some minerality, for example. Where is it?” asks Christine. “Yeah, how about some botrytis, some lees character, even some raisins,” from Clive. “I don’t know why it should be like this because the price of good grapes has shot up. I’m paying five times what I used to pay,” says Irina, who makes Chenin. We agree that 2015 is a year that was not good for Chenin as the wines generally lack varietal character—we don’t want dry whites, we want Chenin. Adding acid is the wrong way to go, resulting in hard, linear wines with a fruitless, emaciated feel. Most of all, we want wines made from grapes that are properly ripe, grapes that are luscious and generously flavoured, that give
us that deep thrill when we taste wines from them. “But, hey, I’d still drink any of these rather than the latest Sauvignon Blancs!” says Colin. The oaked versions come in for still more criticism—not enough oak, or too much, resulting in gawky wines lacking in balance, another disappointment. On the positive side we do find some gorgeous wines right across the spectrum: delicious everyday wines bursting with juicy ripe fruit, and others more serious and restrained with citrus flavours and touches of minerality, wines that will last a decade. This is the genius of Chenin—its great versatility—one day your best pal, the next imperious, regal and we worship at her feet. Pinotage : This is the variety that South Africa understands best in the whole world, so it’s always interesting to taste. We can take the high road or the low road. The high road wines are top of the pile, each a superb little work of art, while the low road offers everyday drinking pleasure. “There are two parents: sometimes elegant and beautiful from the Burgundy parent (Pinot Noir), at other times ripe and robust from the Rhône parent (Cinsaut),” says Clive with a smile. He’s referring to the fact that Pinotage was bred as a cross fertilisation between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut by Prof Perold about a hundred years ago. Sometimes, and it’s often related to the vintage, one parent dominates and the wines are distinctly Pinot-like or vice versa. “These can age so well,” muses Irina. “It makes me think of those old Lanzerac Pinotages that sommeliers in Europe thought were old Burgundies,” says Clive. “Yeah, they really did.” Top wines are a treat, but what do we drink every day? That is more of a challenge and if it’s red then Pinotage will fit the bill perfectly. “A lot of simple wines, superb fruit, so well made, cleverly made, but ultimately simple. Nothing wrong with that, depending on price of course,” from Irina. “Easy drinking and mostly typical of Pinotage, but often strayed into the area of too much added sugar which isn’t
‘Chenin is not being treated like the royalty that it is, instead it’s being treated badly’
WINE TASTED BY THE JUDGING PANEL OFF DRY / SEMI-SWEET / SWEET WHITES WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Lemberg Surin 2012 ALSO LIKED: Christina Van Loveren Chenin Blanc NLH 2013, Mulderbosch Noble Late Harvest 2010, Radford Dale Vine Dried Chenin Blanc 2013, Simonsig Straw Wine 2011 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Balance Buddy Sweet White NV, Balance semiSweet Muscat 2014, Bergsig Gewürztraminer 2015, Boplaas Moscato 2015, Cape Maclear Semi-Sweet White NV, Hartenberg Noble Late Riesling 2010, Kanu Semi-Sweet NV, Klein Rust Semi-Sweet 2015, Landskroon Chenin Blanc Off Dry 2014, Leopards Leap Look Out Semi-Sweet 2015, Limelight Chardonnay/Pinot Noir 2014, Opstal The Mill Iron 2014, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2015, The Lion Hound White 2015, Van Loveren Neil’s Pick Colombar 2014
MERLOT WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Whalehaven Merlot 2013 ALSO LIKED: Chantecler 2014, Dombeya 2013, Journey’s End 2012, Signal Gun 2013 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Balance Winemakers Selection 2014, Chantecler 2013, Eagle’s Nest 2010, Footprint The Long Walk 2014, Glenwood 2013, Hartenberg 2011, Imbuko 2012, Morgenhof 2011, Palesa 2013, Rainbow’s End 2014, Spier Signature 2013, Steenberg 2012, Stellenrust 2013, Villiera 2013, Waverley Hills 2012
DRY WHITE BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Leeuwenkuil Family Reserve White 2012 ALSO LIKED: Alvi’s Drift CVC 2013, Anchor Drift 2014, Magna Carta 2012, Oak Valley Mountain Reserve 2009
WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Alchemy 2014, Balance Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon 2015, Barton Blanc 2014, Boland Cellar Sixty 40 Chenin/Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Bouchard Finlayson Blanc De Mer 2014, Bloem Chenin Blanc/Viognier 2014, Cloof Chardonnay/ Pinot Noir NV, Dornier Donatus 2014, Ernst Gouws & Co Nineteen Fifty Two 2014, Flagstone Noon Gun 2014, Highlands Road Sine Cera 2013, Hildenbrand Coconut & Angel Cuveé 2013, Kanu Unlabelled 2014, Kleine Rust 2015, Waverley Hills Viognier/Semillon/Chardonnay 2013
SHIRAZ WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Oldenburg Vineyards Syrah 2012 ALSO LIKED: Dombeya Boulder Road 2012, Edgebaston 2013, Flagstone Dark Horse 2011, Hilton The Dalmatian Syrah 2012 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Auction Crossing 2011, Beau Belle Fynbos Reserve 2011, Beau Belle The Chapel 2011, Belfield 2011, Boland Reserve 2011, Cloof 2012, Hilton Ironstone 2011, La Bri 2012, Place In The Sun 2013, Rust en Vrede Estate Vineyards 2012, Simonsig Merindol 2012, Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2011, Tokara Reserve Collection 2011, Waverley Hills 2011, Weltevrede Bedrock Black 2012
SAUVIGNON BLANC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Klein Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ALSO LIKED: Allee Bleue 2015, Glen Carlou 2014, Mount Rozier The Garland 2014, Spier Signature 2015 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Almenkerk 2014, Bergsig 2015, Boland Cellar Five Climates 2014, Bouchard Finlayson 2014, De Morgenzon DMZ 2014, Ernst Gouws & Co 2015, Esona GB 2014, Journey’s End Weatherstation 2014, Klein Constantia Estate 2014, Landskroon 2014, Reyneke Biodynamic 2014, Rusthof 2015, Signal Gun 2014, Welgemeend 2014, Whale Pod 2014
necessary as Pinotage is sweet anyway,” says Buks. “So many well-made, juicy, smooth wines, so good to drink,” from a satisfied-looking Colin. “But a couple of weirdos and too many tasted of coffee grounds,” complains Winnie. Yes, well, the coffee/mocha craze has been eagerly adopted for Pinotage, and in some cases, too eagerly. We agree that a dash of coffee is attractive, but when it overwhelms all other aromas and flavours, to the point where it wipes out varietal character, it is just plain wrong, no matter how addicted to coffee you may be. Other criticisms are a lack of varietal character in some wines, the unwelcome return of acetone aromas as well as the “rusty nails” character that was so prevalent years ago. “We thought that was gone FOREVER,” grumbles Clive. But if you’re looking for a charming, juicy, friendly red for winter, try Pinotage from the Club’s selection and you’ll be smiling. You can’t go wrong, after all, we’re the world champions! GT goodtaste.co.za
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Winning Wines O u r pa n e l’s t o p p i c k s t h i s m o n t h a n d a listing of the club selections
Best Cabernet Sauvignon out of 20
Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 THE RESERVE CLUB—BEST CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Best Cabernet Sauvignon out of 20
Bottle Price: R245 On the nose summer fruits, cassis, fennel, mint, dark, bitter chocolate and the faintest hint of basil—all wrapped up in serious, warm toasty oak. The palate is all about chunky, chewy, magically integrated tannin.
Villiera Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 BEST VALUE CLUB—BEST CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Bottle Price: R85.95 The 2014 vintage shows classic dark berry fruit with a hint of dark chocolate and violets on the nose. On the palate it is well-balanced with rich, soft tannins.
Boplaas Cape Vintage 2013 WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB SELECTION
Bottle Price: R105 Dark, purplish black with flavours of cherries, plum, blackberries, violets, pepper, spiciness and dark chocolate. Expectations are met when you taste the wine—full-bodied with big ripe tannins and integrated alcohol, with a long and luscious aftertaste.
Port Selection out of 20
HOW THE WINE CLUB WORKS 1. Our panel of independant wine experts taste over 2 000 wines blind each year to find the best wines to suit your budget. 7 0
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2. You choose the type of wine you like, how much you want to spend per bottle and where you would like it delivered.
goodtaste.co.za
3. We pack a mix of the best ranking wines into one pack. Then conveniently deliver them to your door when it suits you.
4. You get to impress your family and friends with the best wines in SA, complete with cellar necktags and Good Taste magazine. Quality guaranteed.
THE PANEL
David Biggs
Margaret Fundira
Winnie Bowman
Colin Collard
Claude Felbert
PJ ‘Buks’ Nel
Christine Rudman
Gregory Mutambe
Clive Torr
Irina Tinashe von Holdt Nyamudoka
THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)
The Platinum Club
Top of the well-known brands • Rupert & Rothschild Baron Edmond R398 • Boschkloof Epilogue 2014 R598 • De Trafford Cabernet Franc 2012 R299.99 • Boplaas Cape Vintage Reserve Port 2013 R225 • Savage White 2015 R235 • Cederberg Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2013 R229.99
The Reserve Club
The Wine-of-the-Month Club panel conducts more than 40 tastings in a year. A minimum of 40 wines are assessed at each tasting. Before the tasting of a particular category, producers are requested to submit bottled samples of available vintages. All wines are tasted blind. Each judge’s score is taken into account. Wine-of-the-Month Club selections are chosen from among those wines which achieve the highest scores in their respective categories. If two or more wines achieve the same score, the wine with the lowest price is selected as the winner. Best Value Club wines are taken from entries that achieve high scores but are priced below the average of their respective categories. Reserve Club wines must score an average of not less than 15 out of 20.
• Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Best Cabernet Sauvignon R245 • Buitenverwachting Merlot 2012 Best Merlot R159 • Reyneke Biodynamic Cornerstone 2013 Bordeaux Blend Selection R175.99 • Mulderbosch Faithful Hound Red 2014 Best Bordeaux Blend R164.99 • Stellenrust Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2014 Best Chardonnay R129 • Tokara Director’s Reserve White 2013 Best Dry White Blend R289.95 • Boplaas Cape Vintage Reserve 2013 Port Selection R225
Wine-of-the-Month Club Price a consideration
“A lot of simple wines, superb fruit, so well made, cleverly made, but ultimately simple” —IRINA VON HOLDT
• Robertson Beaukett 2015 Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection R48.99 • Cloof 40 Days Natural Sweet 2009 (375ml) Off Dry/Sweet/ Semi-Sweet Selection R59.99 • Kanu Semi Sweet NV Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection R55.99 • Boplaas Cape Vintage 2013 Port Selection R105
Best Value Club
Winners, regardless of price
HOW THE PANEL CHOOSES THE WINES
• Darling Cellars Premium Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Dry White Blend Selection R89.99
• Glenelly Grand Vin Chardonnay 2013 Chardonnay Selection R109 • Compagnies Wijn Grenache/ Mourvèdre 2014 Non Bordeaux Blend Selection R125.95 • Sentinel Pinotage 2013 Pinotage Selection R125.95 • Tormentoso Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Selection R115 • Painted Wolf Peloton Blanc 2014 Dry White Blend Selection R92.95 • Rudera De Tradisie Chenin Blanc 2011 Chenin Blanc Selection R105.95
High-scorers & good value • Villiera Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Selection R85.95 • Neil Joubert Porcini Merlot 2014 Merlot Selection R89.95 • Van Loveren African Java Pinotage 2015 Pinotage Selection R72.95 • Klein Zalze Cellar Selection Cabernet/Merlot 2013 Bordeaux Blend Selection R76.95 • Waterford Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc 2015 Chenin Blanc Selection R69.99 • Willowbrook Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon 2015 Dry White Blend Selection R68.95 • Delheim Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Best Sauvignon Blanc R65.95 • Doolhof Signature Chardonnay 2015 Chardonnay Selection R69.95 • Robertson Beaukett 2015 Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection R48.99 • Cloof 40 Days Natural Sweet 2009 (375ml) Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection R59.99 • Kanu Semi Sweet NV Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection R55.99 • Muratie Cape Ruby NV Port Selection R89.95
W ne est. 1986
For more information call us on 086 111 9463 or visit wineofthemonth.co.za goodtaste.co.za
OF-THE-MONTH CLUB
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“ The best wine is in your glass” LOUIS STRYDOM THE
BR AND
HAS
OF
ERNIE ELS WINES
GROW N
Do you remember the first time you had wine?
When I was growing up, a bottle of wine was always on our dining room table. It was how I learned to appreciate and enjoy wine without the need for a special occasion. Can you remember the first time you had a really good bottle of wine?
The first wine that made complete sense to me was a 1995 Latour, in France. What was it about this particular wine that made it memorable?
The tannin structure was integrated and sleek, but it showed a vibrancy and freshness I’d never experienced before. When I tasted this wine, I knew this was what wine should taste like. You’ve been with Ernie Els since the beginning. What’s stayed the same?
The quality and consistency of our product remains our core focus. We feel Ernie Els Wines continues to deliver a different form of excellence with every vintage. What’s changed the most?
We’ve expanded our range from having one Bordeaux-style blend to having a range that now includes eight red wines, two white wines and even a rosé. Our brand has really grown over the last 16 years. 7 2
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OVER
THE
TELLS
PAST
16
US
HOW
YEARS
What advice would you give to your younger winemaker self?
I’ve learned winemaking is a combination of both science and art. The fundamentals of winemaking are scientific. However, as you start to understand and appreciate terroir and technique, you’re able to shape a wine into something truly unique and special. That’s art. What’s the best part about making wine?
I enjoy showcasing unique terroirs and the natural qualities offered to a wine by the environment in which it is cultivated. Each vintage is distinctive and shows a different expression of the cultivar. What’s your favourite food and wine pairing?
Our red wines are well-structured and always pair well with red meat dishes. The other night I had our Proprietor’s Blend with beef fillet with a truffle-infused jus and fresh watercress—a match made in heaven. What’s the one wine you most enjoy making?
I enjoy making Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignonbased blends. We have seven different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. Each clone has its own unique characteristics— some clones are more tannic while others are fruity and fresh.
What wine cliché rings true for you?
The most underrated cliché is: “The best wine is the wine in your glass.” Each wine has travelled a different road to the glass and needs to be appreciated for what it is.
Louis’ Selection TRY
THESE
WINES
What do you do during your down time?
We are a very close-knit family and enjoy spending as much time together as possible. We’re often outdoors and use every opportunity available to travel. I love mountain biking and have just finished the Sani2C race in Durban. Ever play a round of golf with The Big Easy?
One of my fondest memories with Ernie is when he said: “Louis, as soon as your handicap is too low, I’ll know you’re spending more time on the golf course than in the cellar.”
ERNIE ELS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 The 2014 is a lighter vintage showing the red fruit spectrum of Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose tempts with notes of coconut, vanilla, raspberries and sweet spice. This leads to a polished, supple palate opening to hints of fine white chocolate. The richness of cranberry and morello cherry gives length while the salty liquorice edge offers freshness and elegance. PROPRIETOR’S SYRAH 2014 The Proprietor’s Syrah 2014 is a hedonistic expression, showing baked plums, bacon-fat and a hint of cinnamon. Sweetly fruited throughout, the mid-palate is elegant and yet powerful, offering a contemporary, luxurious style with rich intensity and depth. Notes of peppered salami and goji berries are wound around fruit-laden tannins and wellintegrated oak.
Louis and his wife, Rianie, met at a wine club tasting in Stellenbosch in 1995. They live in Stellenbosch with their three children, Jean-Louis, Jacq and Danielé.
PROPRIETOR’S BLEND 2014 The distinctive Proprietor’s Blend is bold and invigorating from start to finish. This Bordeaux blend with the addition of Shiraz offers a balance of seamless structure and elegant generosity. Notes of sweet black- and blueberry coulis dance on the nose, and with time, floral aromatics are coaxed from the glass. Medium to full bodied, the intense cherry-laced core finishes with a whiff of mint and dried provençal herbs.
About ERNIE ELS
As a leading South African ambassador and one of the most recognisable faces in the world of sport, Ernie Els has long demonstrated a passion for excellence. His focus, discipline and commitment have led to extraordinary golf success, and these same qualities are evident in Ernie Els Wines. Through his many travels, Ernie has been exposed to, and appreciated, some of the world’s greatest wines and in 1999 decided to pursue this passion for fine wine with the creation of Ernie Els Wines. Ernie Els Wines is situated in the “Golden Triangle” on the north facing slopes of the Helderberg mountain range in Stellenbosch. Perfectly surrounded by mountains and vineyards, with views stretching over Stellenbosch and Table Mountain, this is the ideal setting to enjoy great wine and food.
Give these wines a try. Call us on 086 111- 9463 to order.
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A
Editor’s Choice
SELECTION
MON T H ’S
FAVOU R I T E
WINES
3. BLACKCURRANT
5. RED FRUIT
2. PEPPER
4. CASSIS
6. SWEET MELON
Alto Estate Shiraz 2013 An intense flavoured wine brimming with all those traditional Shiraz aromas. Drink now. Enjoy this wine on its own next to the fire, or pair it with a selection of red meat dishes. Single bottle price R222.49
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THIS
1. LEMON
Glenelly Grand Vin Chardonnay 2013 The nose is vibrant lemon and lime zest, with hints of apple, pear drop, lychee and rose which overlays the minerality. Drink now or keep for 2-3 years. Partner with a chicken, leek and root vegetable dish. Single bottle price R109.99
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Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Cabernet/ Merlot 2013 With rich, ripe blackcurrant fruit on the palate, a savoury and smooth mouthfeel. Drink now or keep for 2-5 years. Pairs well with vegetarian dishes as well as chocolate and fruit desserts. Single bottle price R76.95
Reyneke Biodynamic Cornerstone 2013 The wine presents with a red fruit nose of cassis, blackcurrant and mulberry. Delicate perfumed aromas are backed with an underlying graphite line. Ageing potential of 7-10 years. Enjoy with Beef Bourguignon. Single bottle price R175.99
De Trafford Cabernet Franc 2012 Attractive bright red fruit on the nose with typical spicy, dry leaf Cabernet Franc notes. Soft bright red fruit on palate with nice ripeness. Drink young but should keep for 10 years. Enjoy with grilled meat dishes. Single bottle price R299.99
Silvermist Organic Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Beautifully balanced with good fruit concentration and prominent characteristics of lime, lemon leaf, and subtle hints of sweet melon. Drink now. Pairs beautifully with a host of seafood dishes. Single bottle price R172.00
A selection of highly-rated wines to try. Order them by calling the Wine Club on 086 111 WINE (9463)
7. WHITE PEAR
L’Avenir Brut MCC 2012 Fills the entire mouth with rich flavours of white pear, citrus and flower notes; all accompanied by an authentic crispness.Drink now or keep for 5 years. Serve with fresh oysters or poached pear dessert. Single bottle price R179.95
8. FIG
David Niewoudt Ghost Corner Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Powerful concentrated layers of green figs, with a touch of grapefruit, fynbos and a steely minerality on the palate. Drink now. Enjoy with seafood or poultry dishes. Single bottle price R176.99
9. VANILLA
Cederberg Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2013 Delicate aromas of honey, lime zest, roasted nuts and peaches laced with sweet vanilla undertones. Drink now or keep until 2017. Pair with a slow roasted pork belly and seasonal veg. Single bottle price R229.99
10. VIOLETS
Eagles’ Nest Shiraz 2013 On the nose, aromas of ripe red berry fruit, crushed red pepper kernel, violets, and savoury crushed bramble leaf. Can be enjoyed up to 15 years. Enjoy with flame-grilled foods with a smoky char, lamb or venison. Single bottle price R285.82
11. MULBERRY
13. APPLES
12. LIME
14. FYNBOS
Rickety Bridge Shiraz 2013 Lashings of blackcurrant and mulberry with subtle hints of chocolate on the nose. Layered with white pepper and forest fruits. Goes particularly well with game, ostrich, spare ribs, steak and roast beef. Single bottle price R160.00
Delheim Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Vibrant aromas of green citrus and gooseberries are underpinned by a lush palate of green fig, lime and tropical fruit flavours. Drink now or within 2 years. Enjoy with a bacon and leek quiche. Single bottle price R65.99
Lyngrove Collection Chenin Blanc 2015 This unoaked Chenin has aromas of jasmine, green apples, pineapple and almonds. Finely textured with a crisp lingering finish. Enjoy now. Perfect aperitif and also pairs well with seafood. Single bottle price R64.99
Strandveld Syrah 2012 Full-bodied wine with white pepper, fynbos and spicy aromas. Layered with intense black berry fruit flavours and savoury notes. Drink now and can keep for up to 10 years. Enjoy with roast beef, duck and venison. Single bottle price R192.96
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A selection of highly-rated wines to try. Order them by calling the Wine Club on 086 111 WINE (9463)
15. GREEN PEPPER
17. FRUITCAKE
19. PEPPER SPICE
21. PEAR
16. STONE FRUIT
18. PLUM
20. APPLE
22. CHERRIES
Darling Cellars Premium Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Displays intense flavours of green pepper, flint, asparagus and mineral aromas on the nose. Drink now. Enjoy with a selection of seafood dishes, creamy chicken dishes or a big garden salad. Single bottle price R89.99
Painted Wolf Peloton Blanc 2014 Layered flavours of stone fruit, minerality and citrus complimented with gentle oak. Drink now. Goes well with seafood, pork and chicken dishes, especially those with a South East Asian feel. Single bottle price R92.95
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De Trafford Elevation 393 2009 Complex range of aromas from smoky blackberry, fruitcake, cinnamon, cigarbox and spice. Complex fruit carrying through from beginning to end. Best between 2017 to 2028. Ideal with filled roast or grilled meat dishes. Single bottle price R579.99
Buitenverwachting Merlot 2012 The Merlot 2012 has an elegant style and offers delicious raspberry, plum and chocolate-like characters. Enjoy now. Pairs well with game, lamb and selected muscular game fish. Single bottle price R159.00
goodtaste.co.za
Waterford Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2012 Vibrant dark fruit, earthy and clove pepper spice lead the aromatics, accompanied by soft liquorice undertones. Drink now and keep for a further 4–8 years. Pair with Moroccan Lamb Tagine or Bobotie. Single bottle price R209.95
Montaudon Brut Champagne NV Delivers floral aromas first, of pear and apple, it then develops into a symphony of fresh fruit on the mouth. Drink now. Enjoy as an aperitif or complementing a fruit salad with fruits such as pears and apples. Single bottle price R579.00
Jacquart Brut Champagne NV Aromas of fresh pear, fig and almond, with hints of orange flower. Fresh and supple. Full with long fruity finish. Enjoy now. Drink as an aperitief or pair with fish dishes and a selection of cheeses. Single bottle price R698.00
Muratie Ben Prins Cape Vintage Port 2012 With floral notes of violets, perfume and rose petals along with ripe black cherries, dark chocolate and sweet spice. Can be enjoyed now or up to 30 years. Enjoy with game dishes or matured artisanal cheeses. Single bottle price R179.95
A se r Orde the W
Villiera Ad Wisdom A4 FA.pdf
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Digital Wine Appreciation Course
ONLY $0.99
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Download the Free Wine-of-the-Month Club App from iTunes (iOS) or the PlayStore (Android) Faithful Hound Goodtotaste AD FA.pdf 1 Age 2016/06/13 Not for Sale Persons Under the of 18
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䌀攀氀攀戀爀愀琀椀渀最 夀攀愀爀猀 漀昀 圀椀渀攀洀愀欀椀渀最 䔀砀挀攀氀氀攀渀挀攀 眀眀眀⸀戀愀挀欀猀戀攀爀最⸀挀漀⸀稀愀
Experience Olive Oil Where wine, olive oil and cuisine meet in picturesque surroundings
Tasting daily | Guided tours 11:00 & 14:00 (Weather permitting) Reservation required for groups Tel: +27 (0) 21 808 5913 | Email: wine@tokara.com | @TOKARA_ZA | www.facebook.com/tokaraSA
Champagne!
In victory one deserves it, in defeat one needs it.” —NapoleoN BoNaparte
Enjoy Responsibly. Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.
Mind Your Manners DO
MODERN
FAMILIES
NEED
A
NEW
SET
OF
RULES
?
BY DAVID BIGGS
I
think social life was much easier a century ago. There were rules covering every aspect of human behaviour. Writers like Emily Post laid down the laws of hospitality and behaviour in definite terms. In her book Etiquette in Society, published in 1922, Emily even describes the correct protocol for spitting (or not spitting, as the case may be) at the table. “Terrapin bones, fish bones and grape seeds must be eaten quite bare and clean and removed one at a time between finger and thumb,” she says. “All spitting out of bones and pits onto the plate is disgusting… It is unforgivable to take anything out of your mouth that has been put in, except dry bones and stones.” If you took a bite of very hot food, she advised you to take a gulp of wine discreetly to cool the mouth. Definitely no spitting allowed! She did, however, make allowances for cherry pits, which “may be dropped from the lips into the cupped hand”. One of the most influential food writers of all time, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, who lived in the 1800s, said: “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are.” The French gastronome wrote reams of essays and shelves of books about the correct way of eating, and what to eat. He laid down the rule that a dinner party should never be for more than 12 people so “that the conversation may be constantly general”. I actually agree with that. I’d say eight is my maximum number at a table, but I suppose Brillat-Savarin had a bigger table than mine. “Let the guests be detained by the charms of society, and animated by the hope that the evening will yet develop.” He even
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specified when the dinner should end. “Let none leave before eleven o’clock but let all be in bed by midnight.” Being French, he didn’t suggest whose beds the guests should be in by midnight. I suppose it depended on just how the evening did “develop”. Maybe it’s time for us to have a new set of rules of etiquette to cope with changing times. We very seldom sit down to a formal family meal at table any more. We desperately need rules to cope with modern eating styles— the use of cell-phones at table (definitely a big no-no), whether it is acceptable to serve sauces and dips in the containers in which they were bought (I’d say rather not, but it saves washing-up) and whether it’s okay to wear a baseball cap at table (never!). What about wearing earphones during a meal? I think it’s very rude, but parents may find it keeps the children quiet while the adults chat. Does the modern family even need to bother with the idea of meals at table? I know several families where meals are just a matter of opening the fridge and grabbing something to eat while doing the homework or plugged into electronic games. On the other hand, we all need rules if we are to live in harmony with each other. That’s why we have laws. I think people behave better, generally, when there are rules. Watch the guests at any occasion where the invitation says “Dress: formal” and you’ll see how their behaviour changes. Put on your dress suit and bow tie and you immediately walk a little straighter, mind your manners and cut back on the salty language. Oh, Emily Post, where are you when we need you? GT
VISIT VISITSTELLENBOSCH STELLENBOSCH VISIT VISIT STELLENBOSCH STELLENBOSCH VISIT VISITSTELLENBOSCH STELLENBOSCH www.thestellenboschreserve.com www.thestellenboschreserve.com 021021 881881 3899 3899 | info@thestellenboschreserve.com | info@thestellenboschreserve.com www.thestellenboschreserve.com www.thestellenboschreserve.com www.thestellenboschreserve.com www.thestellenboschreserve.com 021 021 881 881 3899 3899 | info@thestellenboschreserve.com | info@thestellenboschreserve.com 021021 881881 3899 3899 | info@thestellenboschreserve.com | info@thestellenboschreserve.com