Good Taste Magazine May Issue 2016

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G O O D T A S T E . C O . Z A

WIN

A TRIP TO MAURITIUS WORTH R30 000!

RSA R29,90 (INCL. VAT)

Eat Your Way Through Vietnam (p.18) Surprising and Unpredictable India (p.36) • Meet Sommelier Tinashe Nyamudoka (p.62) How to Use Art to Extend Living Space (p.46) • Cheese & Wine, the Perfect Pair (p.58) W I N E · F O OD · T R AV E L · H E A LT H · A R T & DE SIG N · C A R S

GOOD TASTE C O N T E N T S

FOOD

18 Eat Your Way Through Vietnam If you’re looking for a fantastic and varied ‘foodie’ destination, Vietnam is the place to go

28

AGEING STEAK

28 Ageing Steak Chefs are pushing the boundaries of beef ageing— and with it, the evolution of steak flavours

64

A Tasty Combination Get ready for Autumn with this pork belly recipe, and enjoy with a Chardonnay

MAURITIUS

30

18

EAT YOUR WAY THROUGH VIETNAM

TRAVEL

30 Miracles of Mauritius Mauritius deserves recognition for its conservation efforts

36 Incredible India India is a country full of surprises

58

CHEESE & WINE

WINE & DRINKS

58 Where There’s Whey, There’s Wine Cheese and wine are both very complex, and fantastic when paired together

62 ‘Wine is my life’

DAWIE BOTHA

66

Tinashe Nyamudoka, head sommelier at The Test Kitchen, on how he got into wine

66 Red, for Sure Meet Dawie Botha, winemaker at Anthonij Rupert wyne

72 ‘You leave your mark on a wine’ We chat to Johann Fourie, winemaker at KWV

INCREDIBLE INDIA

36 M AY

KMV WINEMAKER

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72 A N D

Burnt Umber by Hugo Maritz (See ‘No Correct Interpretation’ on p.44)

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GOOD TASTE

WIN

51

OENO FILE

Subscribe to Good Taste ...

And you receive 15% off, plus stand a chance to win Baleia Extra Virgin Olive Oils

8

33

Win a Mauritius Trip worth R30 000 You stand a chance to win a 4-night stay with return flights—for two people

LIFESTYLE

44 No Correct Interpretation

GRAPEVINE

10

33

WIN A TRIP TO MAURITIUS

Here’s more about art, from Hugo Maritz

46 Perfect Small Space Using art to visually extend a living area

52 The Art of Art Collecting How does one go about collecting art?

REGULARS

BEST BITES

14

BEST ART

42

44

HUGO MARITZ

6

Grapes and Gripes Readers’ opinions, comments and criticisms

8

Oeno File Your wine questions answered

10

News & Happenings What’s on and what’s new

54

BEST READS

14

Tickle your Taste Buds Products & ideas for all your foodie desires

17

Goodtaste.co.za What’s happening online

42

Squiggles & Scribbles Art, design and theatre happenings

56

REV RAP

54

A Good Read Reviews on the latest must-reads

56

Rev Rap Motoring matter-of-facts

68

Latest Wines Our panel reports on the latest wines, All the Winning Wines, and the Editor’s Choice listing

DÉCOR: PERFECT SMALL SPACE

46 M AY

LAST ROUND

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Last Round Changing Hands

Moment The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

For further information call +27 11 234 6524, e-mail infosa@luxresorts.com M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E T U R K E Y | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

THE ONEO FILE

good taste P. O . B O X 3 0 · C O N S TA N T I A 7 8 4 8 · T E L 0 2 1 -7 0 9 - 6 4 0 0 FA X 0 8 6 - 6 74 - 419 9 · w w w.go o d t a s te . c o. z a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR ART DIRECTOR/DIGITAL MANAGER DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR ADVERTISING ADVERTISING WINE TASTINGS TRAFFIC WINE BUYER MARKETING MANAGER WINE ESTATE CIRCULATION PUBLISHER

Colin Collard Shannon Latimer Astrid Rowe Lauren de Sousa Malu Lambert Matthew Brand Karen Naumann Tamlin Jethro & Chesray Apollis Lesel Haddon Natalie Collard Katherine Miller Bridget Bensimon Natalie Collard

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles —David Biggs, Irina von Holdt, Alex Latimer Car Reviews—Stuart Johnston Illustrations—Alex Latimer Photography & Styling—C&D Heierli News—Kari Collard Proofing—Bronwen Griffiths OTHER CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Sarah Duff • Carrie Hampton Hilary Prendini Toffoli • Keli van der Weijde

HAVE A QUESTION? Here’s how to contact us:

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• WRITE TO THE EDITOR : Email us on editor@goodtaste.co.za or write to The Editor, Good Taste, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to editor@goodtaste.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

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TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Good Taste will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Good Taste magazine, their families, their agencies, Good Taste contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. Sms entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.

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Good Taste magazine is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2016. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

GOOD TASTE E D ’ S

L E T T E R

Purchase a bottle of the

T

he big news for this issue is the LAUNCH OF OUR NEW WEBSITE . You’ll love the big and colourful images and the clean and modern look. We’ll be updating more often with news, with lots more recipes and competitions.

Make sure not to miss out on what’s new by signing up to receive our newsletter.

Importantly, if you sign up now you stand a chance to win a trip to Mauritius, worth A taste of Vietnam R30 000! Go have a look now at www.goodtaste.co.za.

We’ve also gone big with our food section in this issue—combining food with travel. The team spent a month in VIETNAM and have come back inspired to cook just like the locals do (page 18).

You’ll enjoy the tasty recipes. Just one bite and you’ll be transported to the Far East. So make sure to give them a try.

While we are in that part of the world, here’s another thought: why not visit INDIA? Sarah Duff will help jell into reality any musings you might have had about going there. She shows how this diverse and mysterious part of the world is full of surprises and is never predictable, and gives you M AY

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valuable insight into what to do and where to go (page 36).

We do some island hopping too, to one of the most popular destinations for South Africans, MAURITIUS. But the article isn’t about sun and sea but about the many conservation miracles taking place here and on the surrounding islands (page 30).

For some DÉCOR and art inspiration we visit a small Green Point cottage, where the owners have turned a small home into one that’s seemingly spacious, with clever renovations and a focus on art (page 46).

On the wine side of things, we go all out at CULTURE CLUB CHEESE in Cape Town, playing with cheese and wine pairings (page 58). And we chat to winemakers DAWIE BOTHA (page 66) and JOHANN FOURIE (page 72) about what to expect from the 2016 harvest.

There’s more, of course, not forgetting valuable information on all the best and latest in wines.

Enjoy!

T H O U S A N D

Ardbeg Escape Pack for R719,00 and stand a chance to

WIN!

(The Ardbeg Escape pack consists of the 10 Year Old and two shortie glasses)

WIN!

You could WIN 1 of 2 limited addition Ardbeg prize packs to the value of R5,000 each!

Prize consists of: Limited Edition Ardbeg Tweed overnight bag, 1x Ardbeg 10 Year Old, 1x Ardbeg Uigeadial (limited edition bottle), 1x Ardbeg Corryvreckan (limited edition bottle)

to order: contact wine-of-the-month club Call us on 086 111 wine (9463) Terms & Conditions: Offer valid from 1 March 2016 while stocks last.

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Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.

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GOOD TASTE

B E S T

Exploring Cape Town The article ‘48 hours in Cape Town’ in the January issue is a great guideline to exploring the city. When you stay in Cape Town, like I do, you are blessed with the endless possibilities of seeing new sights.

Cape Town has so much to offer, you can actually visit a new place every time you plan an outing. The wine estates alone can fill all your weekends. And these days it’s not just plain wine tastings on offer, most farms offer pairings with all sorts of delicious goodies.

There are chocolate and wine tastings, canapés and wine, cupcakes and wine, biltong and wine, and even meringues and sparkling wine, nougat and MCC—and that’s just to name a few.

One of the latest, and super trendy, additions to the drinks scene in the Cape is craft beer. And craft beer festivals are popping up everywhere too—and they seem very popular and well attended.

L E T T E R S

SEND US YOUR My favourite Cape Town activity, though, is a COMMENTS: picnic in the tranquil surroundings that the wine editor@goodtaste. estates offer—of course, Kirstenbosch Botanical co.za Gardens too.

If you are of the more active crowd, you won’t be disappointed with what’s on offer either: clay pigeon shooting, ice skating, abseiling, kite surfing, roller derby, paragliding, rock climbing and many, many other activities. Zip-lining is also becoming a very popular Constantia experience—and an exhilarating one at that.

I would not want to stay in any other city, what with all the

wonderful possibilities at my fingertips.

—MARIA LÊ ROUX, BRACKENFELL

Maria wins the case of Rekorderlig Ciders. Email us on editor@ goodtaste.co.za with your opinion, comments or criticisms.

Game Driving in the Cape I really loved that beautiful photo of the zebras and giraffe in the ‘Stellenbosch Wine Route Uncovered’ story, in your March issue. And when I read the caption, I almost spilt my wine—a real game drive, in the winelands.

Well, about two weeks later my husband and I went out to Villiera and on the game drive. And you were right. We were not disappointed.

We saw beautiful bird life, the giraffe (and its partner), zebra, kudu, springbok, and lots more. What a wonderful drive, with a great guide who was passionate about the land and its animals.

We can now also recommend it.

—SASHA CARTER, RONDEBOSCH, CAPE TOWN

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Liebherr Appliances: Quality, Design and Innovation Liebherr prides itself on manufacturing refrigerators, freezers, wine and beverage coolers for integrated and freestanding use that meet outstanding design criteria by combining excellent materials such as premium-quality stainless steel, precision electronics, and exquisite fittings with classic contours, to produce appliances of timeless elegance.

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GOOD TASTE O E N O

F I L E

Are there any regulations about how pale, or dark a wine must be to qualify as a rosé? How important is it to serve a different wine with every course? How do I go about starting my own tasting circle?

A

a deep pink. I have also tasted rosé

with the soup?

wines that are almost white. Are there

That depends entirely on the formality of the occasion. If it’s a very grand affair, a wine for every course might be a pleasing touch. Not many modern homes have the facilities for this, however. You don’t want to be bustling back and forth all evening changing glasses and opening bottles, unless you have serving staff to do it for you.

Traditionally, a dry sherry is served with soup, but if it’s a thick, creamy soup, an unwooded Chardonnay could also be a good match. For most modern dinner parties, three wines should suffice—a sparkling wine as a welcoming drink, red or white with the main course depending on the dish, and a sweet fortified wine or noble late harvest with the dessert.

Rosé wine from Stonehill (alas, now

no longer available) and noticed it was

any regulations about how pale, or dark a wine must be to qualify as a rosé?

No, as long as there is some pink tint in the wine it can be labelled rosé. The colour of a red wine comes from the skin of the grapes, so the longer the juice is left on the crushed grape skins the darker the wine becomes, up to a point. To make a rosé wine, the juice is removed from the skins as soon as it has attained the depth of colour the winemaker wants.

The skins of red grapes also add tannins to the wine, so the winemaker might like to leave the juice for a little longer in order to let it pick up some grippy tannic bite. This would, of course, result in a darker pink. Some rosé wines are a blend of red and white wine, confusing the issue even further.

Basically, if it’s pink the winemaker can call it a rosé.

t a dinner party, how important is it to serve a different wine with

every course? What would one serve

I

don’t know of any established wine tasting circles in my area. Would it be

possible to start my own tasting circle and how should I go about it?

It can be as simple or as complicated as you choose to make it.

At the simple end of the scale, you simply need to invite a few wine-loving friends round on a regular basis, open a few bottles and taste. You might like M AY

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to draw up a few basic rules: How often should you meet? About once a month is usually a good idea. Who supplies the wines? You can either decide that each member brings an interesting wine to share at each meeting, or elect a wine selection member and pay him or her a monthly levy to cover the cost of the wines. Who is in charge? Any club without a chairman tends to wander and fade after a while. If there’s club money involved, who is responsible for it and how is it controlled?

It may seem like a lot of pompous bother, but a simple, written constitution can save a great deal of argument and misunderstanding. Every member of the group should have a copy. You could, of course, become members of the Wine-of-the-Month Club and have a tasting date every time your club selection arrives.

Puzzled about wine? Bothered by etiquette or formality?

Anything you would like to know about grapes or grape juice? Send your wine questions, which our panel will try to answer in the least pretentious way possible, to: The Editor, Good Taste, PO Box 30, Constantia, 7848 or email editor@goodtaste.co.za.

ASK US A QUESTION

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GOOD TASTE B E S T

N E W S

W H A T ’S O N A N D W H A T ’S N E W

Red Wine Is Good for Diabetics A recent study found a glass of RED WINE EVERY NIGHT WITH DINNER MAY HELP PEOPLE WITH TYPE 2 DIABETES MANAGE THEIR CHOLESTEROL AND CARDIAC HEALTH. This is according to new findings from a two-year trial led by

researchers at Ben-Gurion University of the Negev. People who have diabetes are more susceptible to developing long alcohol study, researchers aimed to assess the effects and safety of initiating moderate alcohol consumption in diabetics, and sought to determine whether the type of wine matters. Both red and white wine can improve sugar control, depending on alcohol metabolism genetic profiling. “Red wine was found to be superior in improving overall metabolic profiles, mainly by modestly improving the lipid profile, through increasing good (HDL) cholesterol and apolipoprotein A1 (one of the major constituents of HDL cholesterol), while decreasing the ratio between total cholesterol and HDL cholesterol,” the researchers explain. So drink up and be merry!

Say Hello to CWG’s New Protégés Three new aspirant winemakers have been given the opportunity to develop their skills working side by side with some of the country’s finest masters of their craft, as part of the CAPE WINEMAKERS GUILD PROTÉGÉ PROGRAMME. This mentorship programme aims at developing and empowering talented young protégés to become future winemakers and viticulturists of excellence. This year’s intake of three new interns brings to 20 the total number of protégés who have participated in the programme since its inception in 2006. PETER VAKELE of Khayelitsha in Cape Town is spending his first year at Ernie Els Wines under Louis Strydom, chairman of the Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Development Trust. Fellow protégé SYDNEY MELLO, who comes all the way from Mahwelereng in Limpopo, is working with veteran winemaker, Neil Ellis. The third new addition to the programme is MARYNA HUYSAMEN of Vredendal in the West Coast, who joins David Nieuwoudt at Cederberg Cellars. Students interested in applying for the programme can visit www.capewinemakersguild.com.

Kevin Arnold initiated a program of research and development in the Waterford wine styles. Each year the winemaking team tries new combinations of blends or even new varietals. These wines are made in small quantities and if they meet the

criteria, set by Kevin, the wine will be bottled and labelled under the exclusive The Librar y Collection label. These wines are produced for the wine connoisseur who wants to challenge their palate to new tastes and flavours.

THE LIBRARY COLLECTION 3BB 2009: The wine shows good depth and length of flavour. It has dark berr y flavours on the palate and a long finish. This wine will age well for another 10+ years. (54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot.)

TEL: +27 (0)21 880 5300 | E-MAIL: info@waterfordestate.coza | WEB: www.waterfordestate.co.za

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TEXT BY KARI COLLARD • PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCK.COM, YUPPIECHIEF.CO.ZA • VODKA IMAGE LAUREN DE SOUSA

cardiovascular diseases than the general population and have lower levels of ‘good’ cholesterol. In this first two-year

GOOD TASTE

How to Make the Perfect Vodka Soda Despite seeming simple, there are a few key elements to keep in mind when mixing up this classic. Follow these four steps to get the perfect vodka soda:

•

Bigger ain’t better. Super sizing your drink just means it’ll turn into a watered-down disaster. Instead, use a short tumbler

•

that’ll aid the right ratio of vodka and soda.

Keep it ice cold. Use full-sized cubes with no shards or chips of ice in sight. Keeping your vodka in the freezer will also ensure

•

the drink is as chilled as it can possibly be.

Stick to small. Get the smaller bottles or cans of soda as they’re extra carbonated and you won’t be left with a big bottle of

•

almost-finished soda that’ll go flat in your fridge.

Lemon so fresh. Step away from the easy-peasy-squeezy bottle of lemon juice. Your lovingly made drink (and guests) deserve a slice of real deal citrus.

Good Looking and Eco-Friendly Wine always tastes better in a good looking glass, don’t ya think? Put eco-friendly on top of that and this starts to sound even better. Now, when enjoying wine outside, we often need to resort to drinking out of paper or polystyrene cups. Horrors! Introducing a stylish little glass called GOVINO. Made from a special BPA-free polymer that closely replicates the attributes of crystal, govino is ideal for picnics, pool areas, yachts or concert venues where breakable glass is either prohibited or simply not feasible. govino is completely environmentally friendly and its patented thumb-notch not only provides a secure, ergonomic grip, but allows for easy holding and sipping. The range includes a red and white wine glass, decanter and beer glass. Get yours at www.yuppiechef. com and other kitchenware stores and wine boutiques.

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What’s on Where

1

TASTE OF CAPE TOWN, 7-10 APRIL. This annual event returns

to the Mother City at a fresh new venue: the Claremont

Cricket Club. With a host of exhibitors, artisan foodie producers and award-winning wineries, expect the city’s finest food and drink. From R80pp from www.itickets.co.za or at the door.

2

SA ON TAP CRAFT BEER & MUSIC FESTIVAL, 9 APRIL. SA’s biggest

craft beer and music festival returns to Jozi’s Montecasino.

Featuring over 180 of SA’s premier hand-crafted brews, ciders, gins, whiskies and wines from 30 of our nation’s best brewers. Tickets start at R110pp at www.quicket.co.za. Go to www.saontap.co.za.

3

HOUSE OF MOËT WINE CELLAR DINNER, 27 APRIL. Spend the

evening in The Oyster Box’s exclusive wine cellar, with each

course accompanied by a champagne within the Moët portfolio.

Available for ten guests only, the Moët representative will talk through each pairing. R850pp. Visit www.oysterboxhotel.com.

4

ELGIN COOL WINE AND COUNTRY FOOD FESTIVAL, 30 APRIL-1 MAY. As harvest comes to an end, the Elgin Wine

valley invites visitors to their annual festival. Award winning wines, delicious food, outdoor activities and entertainment are all on the menu. Tickets R120pp at Webtickets. Visit www.elginwine.co.za.

5

THE RIEBEEK VALLEY OLIVE FESTIVAL, 7-8 MAY. This annual olive

festival is the place to be if you’re a big fan of the humble

olive. Sample a wide range of olives from local olive oil producers in between sips of wines from the area. Artisanal beers, hearty local food and live entertainment promise an unforgettable weekend. R125pp, book via www. webtickets.co.za.

6

THE TOPS AT SPAR WINE SHOW, 12-14 MAY. This show returns

to Joburg’s Sandton Convention Centre, with ‘The Greatest Show

Unearthed!’ as this year’s theme.

The event will channel a vintage burlesque experience while expertly blending hundreds of fine wine exhibitors, edu-taining activities, food and festivity. Tickets R150pp, from www.wineshow.co.za or from R170pp at the door.

7

THE CABERNET FRANC CARNIVAL, 21 MAY. This carnival will

take place at Avontuur Estate with 16 wineries participating.

Combined with the Cab Franc Challenge where the top six examples will be chosen by the judging panel and made available for tasting and purchasing on the day. Only 300 tickets available, starting at R120pp. Go to www.avontuurestate.co.za.

8

SHIRAZ & CHARCUTERIE AT ANTHONIJ RUPERT, 28 MAY. What

could be better than this mix? Experience this delicious duo at

this year’s event at Anthonij Rupert Wyne in Franschhoek. Tickets cost R180pp via www.webtickets.co.za.

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GOOD TASTE

Appletiser Turns 50

Franschhoek’s Top 10

This year marks Appletiser’s golden

The FRANSCHHOEK APPELLATION GRAND PRESTIGE (AGP) made their Top 10

anniversary, as this proudly South African

announcement earlier this year, where Môreson’s Mercator 2013 secured the top position.

brand celebrates 50 years. To celebrate,

AGP was established in 2013 with the aim of rewarding producers who focus on bottling

over the next 12 months Appletiser will

premium quality Wine of Origin Franschhoek wines. In November 2015, 92 wines

be giving away a trip to Royal Ascot in the

were entered and evaluated in a blind tasting by an independent panel of five judges.

United Kingdom and a trip to experience

Internationally acclaimed sommelier, David Clarke, was appointed as the convener for

New Year’s Eve in Times Square. There

the competition.

will also be a number of

Ten wines with the

competitions for hampers,

highest scores were

gifts and experiences

identified as the 2016

to be won, as

Franschhoek AGP

well as something

Wines. Well done to

special, which will

all the winners!

be launched later on this year. So keep an eye out on Appletiser’s social media pages for more information on celebrations and festivities. Go to www. appletiser.co.za.

The 2016 Franschhoek AGP Top 10 Wines, in order of ranking, are: Môreson Mercator 2013 (Chardonnay), Franschhoek Vineyards Semillon 2012, Black Elephant Vintners Brut MCC NV (Chardonnay/Pinot Noir), La Chaumiére Pinot Noir 2013, La Bri Affinity 2013 (Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend), Môreson Chardonnay Straw Wine 2013, Holden Manz Cabernet Franc 2013, Stony Brook Ghost Gum 2011 (Cabernet Sauvignon), Lynx SMV 2013 (Shiraz-based blend) and Maison Straw Wine 2012 (Chenin Blanc).

J A N U A R Y

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B E S T

NEW PRODUCTS

&

B I T E S

IDEAS FOR A LL YOUR FOODIE DESIR ES

Want to Make It to 100? You Have to Be Berry Lucky This power-packed berry has been around for some time, but we just can’t get enough of the goji berry’s sky-high nutritional value. Here are a few reasons why you need to make these ruby red berries a part of your diet: A SUPERFOOD ON STEROIDS. They contain 18 amino acids, including the eight essential amino

acids, 21 trace minerals, more iron than spinach and more vitamin C than an orange.

PACKED FULL OF PROTEIN. Goji berries contain almost 13 per cent protein, making them one of the

most protein-dense fruits around. Just one cup contains a whopping 12 grams of protein.

REJUVENATE YOUR GRANNY. These berries are also full of antioxidants and phytochemicals, helping

to reverse free-radical damage and making them a helpful agent for anti-ageing.

LADIES, LISTEN UP. They’re excellent for women’s health, are thought to help regulate hormones,

ease cramps and improve those pesky monthly mood swings too.

A FEW MORE BONUSES. Goji berries are naturally anti-inflammatory, may help to lower cholesterol,

support liver and kidney function as well as improve overall immunity.

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TEXT BY KARI COLLARD • IMAGES SA CHEESE FESTIVAL, SKINNY SCOOP, LEIPZIG COUNTRY HOUSE, ISTOCK.COM, LAUREN DE SOUSA

GOOD TASTE

GOOD TASTE

The Scoop on Guilt-Free Ice Cream

was born when Jarred Plu’g and Gabriella

Skinny Scoop has launched a first of its

and fitness interests. Skinny Scoop retails

kind—sugar-free protein ice cream in

at R34,99 for the 175ml tub and R89,99

SA—an innocent indulgence with fun

for the 500ml tub, and can be found at

flavours like Vanilla Camilla and Afterdark

various retail outlets in and around Cape

Cacao. The tempting treat contains only

Town. Someone hand us a spoon.

the highest quality natural ingredients and

Go to www.skinnyscoop.co.za.

Esposito discovered their common health

Cheese Tip 1: Go to the Cheese Festival The ever-popular SOUTH AFRICAN CHEESE FESTIVAL will again, this year, feature the most well-known and popular cheeses to the more exotic, handmade boutique cheeses. Festival-goers can also enjoy wines, good music, celebrity chefs and famous personalities at Sandringham, Stellenbosch (exit 39 on the N1). Tickets are R150 per day, and available at any Computicket outlet, Shoprite or Checkers store. No tickets will be sold at the gates. The festival

ER READ WAY A GIVE

runs from 30 April-2 May. Go to www.cheesefestival.co.za.

Reader Giveaway: SMS your name and ‘cheesefest’ to 32060 and you stand a chance to win one of ten double tickets to the SA Cheese Festival, valid on 2 May only.

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GOOD TASTE

Win with SA Cheese Festival and Wine & Olive Route

Cheese Tip 2: Baked Brie

Are you in need of some time away? Enter this competition and

Looking for an impressive, but also quick and easy way

a lovely weekend away can be yours, along with some delicious

to serve your guests cheese and crackers? Why not try

wines. THE WORCESTER WINE & OLIVE ROUTE is giving away a

baking your favourite brie or camembert? It’s so easy and

weekend package for two, to the value of R4 500! Plus the

adds a new tasting dimension around the cheese board.

winner also gets two tickets to the SA Cheese Festival, valid on 2

It’s almost like a mini fondue. Grab some breadsticks or

May only. (Closing date for entry, 21 April.)

your favourite crackers and dip in.

YOUR ITINERARY LOOKS LIKE THIS: Accommodation at Leipzig

Country House, with breakfast included. On Saturday, a wine tasting at Brandvlei Cellar (with 6 bottles of wine to take home), a wine tasting at Aan De Doorns (with 6 bottles of wine to take

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To bake your brie, pierce the top in several places and insert your herbs of choice.

Bake at 180ºC for about 5 minutes or until the centre is melted and gooey.

home), an olive tasting at Willow Creek Olive Estate (with a gift hamper of olive products to take home), followed by lunch at the Willow Creek Bistro. Then you’re free to enjoy your afternoon, followed by dinner at Leipzig. After a more lazy start after breakfast on Sunday, it’s back to some wine tasting. You’ll begin at Nuy on the Hill (with 6 bottles of wine to take home), followed by wine tasting and lunch at Overhex Winery & Bistro. Couldn’t sound more heavenly.

Travel dates are between 3 May-31 August 2016, and the package also includes

We baked the Dalewood Brie Superlatif with sprigs of thyme and served it with melba toast and, for some sweetness, figs.

a mixed case of 12 Worcester Wine & Olive WIN d a weeken 2, r fo e g a pack lue of to the va !

R4 5 0 0

Route wines. Go to www.

Dalewood Cheesery Shop: Open Monday-Friday 9am-4pm,

worcesterwineroute.co.za.

Saturdays 10am-3pm (October-April).

Here’s how to enter:

R45 Klapmuts-Simondim Road. Tel: 021-200-2580.

Simply SMS ‘wineandolive’ and your name to 32060.

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Email: cheesery@dalewood.co.za. Web: www.dalewood.co.za

GOOD TASTE G O O D T A S T E . C O . Z A

Can’t get enough? Visit www.goodtaste.co.za for more on food, wine, travel and lifestyle

FRESH NEW LOOK

WIN

All in One Place Take a look at all our previous covers.

We’ve put these beauties in one place for you to drool over.

We’ve redesigned the Good Taste website.

And it’s looking beautiful. Go see for yourself and let us know if you love the change as much as we do—or if you have any feedback for us. Send your comments to editor@goodtaste.co.za.

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Sign up to our newsletter and you stand a chance to win a competition worth R30 000! You and a partner could be jetting off to Mauritius for 4 nights at Radisson Blu Azuri Resort, with Air Mauritius. Sign up on the home page.

Win with Good Taste You can now enter our competitions directly online. Make sure to watch this space, as we’ll be running some fabulous competitions this year.

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NEW Big and Visual You’ll be glad to see our beautiful recipe images displaying at a good size—just big enough to make your mouth water.

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Hanoi is made up of layers—layers of colours, traditions old and new— all against the backdrop of communist flags and mad spaghetti power lines

The lotus lilies are striking, and the salad made from their stems is just delicious

Market places are a hive of action and culinary gems, with the beautiful silvery fish being a top choice

Rambutan: South East Asia’s version of the litchi. It’s slightly spikier in appearance than ours, with a perfumed taste

GOOD TASTE BEST FOOD DESTINATIONS

Eat Your Way Through

VIETNAM

BY DIANE HEIERLI PHOTOGR APHY & STYLING C &D HEIERLI R ECIPES DIANE HEIER LI • FOOD ASSISTANT M AR ELI ER ASMUS

I

f you’re looking for a fantastic and varied ‘foodie’ destination, Vietnam is the place to go. Markets

and street corners are bustling with an assortment of fresh aromas, colourful fruit and unusual ingredients—it’s a feast for the senses.

Eating like a local is largely determined by the geography of the land. The North has a distinct Chinese influence. The food is less spicy, less sweet but reliant on the generous use of fresh herbs such as mint, basil and coriander.

The South, on the other hand, is more tropical with definite Indian influences, more sweetness and spice. It’s these subtle differences that

essentially set them apart.

Forget your Western sensibilities of straightbacked chairs and tables with cutlery. Give yourself over to plastic chairs that look like they’ve escaped from a nursery school. Learn to wield a pair of chopsticks and prepare to sit in little huddled groups next to traffic lights. And, before you know it, you’ll be eating like a local.

There's more to Vietnam than the beautiful scenery—expect to fall in love with the chaotic markets, interesting produce and tasty food M AY

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www.

Bitter gourds: These are sold sliced and whole, ready for street markets

Pho: A Vietnamese noodle broth with rice noodles, fresh herbs and either beef or chicken. So much more than a soup. For the recipe, go to www.goodtaste.co.za/meat-1.

The Hoi An fruit and veg market is buzzing with the sounds of people selling their wares. Here, neither young nor old is spared work M AY

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Bahn Mi

Chicken & Pork Sarmie (recipe on p.27)

This delicious throwback from the French colonials is made up of a smallish baguette filled with a variety of toppings. The toppings will vary from stall to stall, but typically the dish contains terrine or pâtÊ and some chicken, fresh coriander, spring onions, chillies and pickles

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Mackerel

baked in caramel coconut sauce (recipe on p.27)

Fish makes up a large portion of the Vietnamese diet, which means if you love fish you will be spoilt for choice. All the combinations on offer—from fresh to cooked, spicy to sweet—work together to create a flavour sensation

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Rice noodles, peanuts, sprouts and coriander combine to create interesting new tastes

Forget the idea of a Western-style supermarket. Here you’re faced with the hustle and bustle of trade. You’ll find stalls filled with live or plucked chickens, herbs, vegetables, fruit, spices and fresh fruit. In fact, it’s also not out of the ordinary to see a scooter navigating its way through these busy, narrow walkways

Fish, fish and more fish, beautifully packaged into little woven baskets and then sold to passers-by

A variety of chillies

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A treasure chest: Prickly gourds, duck eggs, sweet potatoes and daikon

Good TasTe

Bun Cha (recipe on p.27)

Tasty Bun cha with a squeeze of fresh lime, a touch of chilli and a scattering of fresh herbs. This favourite dish is also often referred to as ‘two ways with pork’. Pork shoulder minced and rolled into tiny meatballs and sliced pork belly all prepared over barbecue coals.

Served with rice vermicelli, a dipping sauce and lashings of fresh herbs

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Banana and Coconut

Tapioca (recipe on p.27)

Pork belly cooking, for Bun cha

A typical shop on a side street—fresh bananas by the bunch, hats to shield you from the midday sun, and almost anything else your heart desires

Dessert is not big on the menu in Vietnam, but its people certainly have a way with caramelised bananas, tapioca, sesame seeds and coconut

Dragon fruit: Delicious and available in white flesh or bright cerise.

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Vietnamese iced

coffee Also called Ca phe da, this full-flavoured coffee is decadent and oh-so-delicious Serves 2 • 2 scoops good quality, full roast ground Robusta or Arabica coffee • 6 tbsp condensed milk • ice 1. Place the ground coffee in a stainless steel drip filter and pour hot water over the coffee. Or you can use a percolator.

2. Set aside when ready.

3. Pour the condensed milk into two glasses and top up with some ice.

4. Pour the coffee over the ice and condensed milk and stir until creamy.

No Vietnamese meal is complete without rice, and rice noodles are no exception. Here you see them dried and ready for transportation

No chickening out for the buyer. You choose your chook, then it’s slaughtered and plucked right there for you

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Citrus is a firm favourite, often distributed by bicycle

GOOD TASTE

BAHN MI CHICKEN AND PORK SARMIE Serves 4 • 50ml mayonnaise • 10ml sriracha • 4 small baguettes • 150g mettwurst • 2 roasted chicken breasts, thinly sliced • carrot and kohlrabi pickle • 1 handful fresh coriander • 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 1. Mix the mayonnaise and the sriracha. You can add more sriracha according to preference.

2. Cut the baguettes open and spread with a layer of mettwurst at the bottom as well as some sriracha mayo.

3. Arrange slices of chicken on top.

4. Add some pickle, spring onions and a toss of fresh coriander.

FOR THE CARROT AND KOHLRABI PICKLE: Makes about 2 cups • 1 medium kohlrabi, peeled and thinly sliced in the shape that you desire • 2 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced • 1 tsp salt • ½ cup sugar • 1 ¼ cups white wine vinegar • 1 red chilli, finely chopped • 1 cup lukewarm water 1. Put the vegetables in a bowl and toss with the salt and 2 tsp sugar.

2. Massage the vegetables for 2 min until they have lost about a quarter of their original volume and are bendable.

3. Rinse with running water and drain from all excess water.

4. For the brine, stir together the remaining sugar with the vinegar, chilli and water until all the sugar has dissolved.

5. Pour the brine over the vegetables and refrigerate.

6. The pickle will keep for up to a month in your refrigerator.

1. Preheat oven to 180°C. 2. Combine mackerel with shallots, fish sauce and pepper and set aside for about 20min.

3. Meanwhile, put sugar with 1 tbsp of water in a saucepan over medium heat.

4. Bring to the boil and let the sugar caramelise until it’s a rich, golden colour.

5. Pour in 250ml water, standing away from the pan 6. Stir until the caramel is smooth.

7. Heat olive oil in a frying pan and fry the fish on both sides until the skin is crispy and golden.

8. Add the caramel sauce, coconut milk, chopped chilli and ginger.

9. Bring to the boil and then remove from the heat.

10. Put the fish in an oven proof dish and pour the sauce over.

11. Bake for 10min or until the sauce starts to thicken.

12. Serve the fish sprinkled with fresh coriander, spring onion and some maldon salt.

BUN CHA Grilled pork with rice vermicelli and bun cha dipping sauce Serves 6

BANANA AND COCONUT TAPIOCA

• 1 tbsp fish sauce • 8 shallots, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, chopped • 1 tsp castor sugar • 300g pork belly, cut into thin strips • 350g pork mince • 1 free range egg • 4 tbsp chopped chives • 600g rice vermicelli • 150g bean sprouts • 200g butter lettuce leaves • 1 large handful coriander sprigs • 1 large handful fresh mint • 1 large handful fresh basil

Serves 4 • 2 cups tapioca pearls • 2 cups water • 400ml coconut milk • 3 tbsp sugar • 6 bananas, peeled and cut lengthways • 4 tbsp treacle sugar • 2 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts, roughly chopped FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE: • 50g treacle sugar • 25ml water

Serves 3

FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE: • 300g castor sugar • 100ml fish sauce • 100ml rice vinegar • 100ml lime juice • 1 red chilli, seeded and chopped • 3 garlic cloves, chopped • 60g carrot, thinly sliced • 60g kohlrabi, thinly sliced

• 3-4 fresh mackerel fillets that are lightly smoked • 3 shallots, finely diced • 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce • ¼ tsp black pepper • 1 ½ tbsp sugar • 250ml water • olive oil, for frying • 150ml coconut milk • 1 red chilli, finely chopped • knob of ginger • handful fresh coriander • 4 spring onions, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 200°C on grill.

2. FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE: Combine sugar, fish sauce, rice vinegar and lime juice and heat just enough so that the sugar can dissolve.

3. Add the chilli, garlic, carrot and kohlrabi and set aside.

4. Make the marinade by combining the fish sauce, shallots, garlic and sugar.

5. FOR THE CRACKLING: Remove the rind from the pork belly.

6. Place the rind on an oven tray and brush with olive oil.

MACKEREL BAKED IN CARAMEL COCONUT SAUCE

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7. Place in the oven for about 45min or until very crispy and golden.

8. Set aside to cool down. If not used immediately, wrap airtight.

9. Put the pork belly strips with half of the marinade in the refrigerator for 2 hours to marinade.

10. Mix the pork mince, the remaining marinade, egg and chives in a bowl. Refrigerate for 2 hours as well.

11. Heat a barbeque or grill to medium-high heat.

12. With damp fingers, form the pork meatballs into 3cm patties.

13. Barbeque the pork strips and patties for 3 min on each side or if an oven is used, make sure they get a charred appearance.

14. Boil some water and add 2 tsp salt.

15. Cook the rice vermicelli until cooked for about 5 min.

16. To serve, divide the dipping sauce between 6 bowls. Add some grilled pork and patties to each bowl.

17. Arrange the noodles, bean sprouts, lettuce and herbs around the pork and serve immediately.

S I X T E E N

1. Rinse tapioca pearls under running water in a colander.

2. Put tapioca in a pot with the water and bring to the boil.

3. Turn the heat down and simmer until halfway cooked.

4. Rinse again, transfer to a clean pot and add coconut milk and 3 tbsp of sugar.

5. Simmer on very low heat until translucent.

They should keep their shape.

6. Place the bananas on a baking tray and generously sprinkle with treacle sugar.

7. Place under the grill until a crispy golden caramel forms.

8. Set aside to cool slightly.

9. FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE: Place the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat until it turns into a caramel.

10. Serve tapioca with the banana. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and peanuts and drizzle with caramel sauce.

GOOD TASTE BEST TASTES

Chefs are pushing the boundaries of beef ageing—and with it, the evolution of steak flavours

BY MALU LAMBERT

D

ry ageing meat is nothing new.

Back in the time of the butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker, dry ageing beef was standard practice—and some of those butcheries are still in operation today.

American company, DeBragga & Spitler has been hanging meat out to dry for 90 years now (originally in Brooklyn, before moving, rather appropriately, to Manhattan’s Meatpacking District).

Owner, George Faison sums up the process neatly: “Just like with making cheese or wine, this is a process of controlled decomposition.”

Dry ageing steak is a quixotic mix of microbes, fat, air, water, cut—and time. If handled (read coddled like a new born baby) correctly, dry-aged beef can be as complex as a South African Shiraz—with flavours of nuts, cheese, truffles and smoke. Traditionally, dryaged meat is hung from around 21 to 28 days, but it’s becoming more and more common to push this deadline into the hundreds—there are even reports of a 459-day aged steak from a ‘Chop House’ in Dallas.

Locally, Andy Fenner of Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants is leading the charge. “It’s quite a process with a lot of meat-geek stuff but essentially the end goal is to intensify flavour and to increase tenderness. We will never dry

for the microbes to do age beef for less than 14 their work, creating days. It’s a waste of time. a complex array of 14 days is when you start flavours—umami, seeing a distinct impact sweetness, bitterness— on the tenderness of the that can’t be replicated in meat. From 14 days to 21 any other way. is when the rich, buttery, The basic science of the earthy flavours that come process is that enzymes with grass-fed beef really in the meat’s muscle cells start kicking in. The effect break down proteins, fats improves exponentially and glycogen into amino from there, but we have acids, fatty acids and found 35 days to be the Dry-aged beef can be as complex as a South sugars. The kicker here is sweet spot.”

African Shiraz that one of these amino The Magic of Microbes acids is the flavourful glutamate, which An aged steak is a sight to behold. Top is a natural MSG. Chef Masters judge, Francis Lam once Different kinds of beef age differently. described an aged rib-rack as: “Five More marbled meat can age for longer different colours: maize-y fat, blackperiods, while grass-fed beef can only be brown crust, snowy patches of mould, hung for a shorter time, as the grass-fed creamy bone, and deep-red meat.” fats don’t oxidise as well.

The art of cooking relies on the cook Air is another little magic helper. Air to transform ingredients into something movement takes away moisture from that’s flavourful, through seasoning and the surface of the cut; keeping unwanted clever combinations. But sometimes, moulds at bay as well as helping the like with cheese, we can allow the food water work its way out of the meat. This certain conditions to make itself more leaching of moisture concentrates the delicious, by encouraging the enzymes beef’s flavour, similar to reducing a already present to evolve along with stock or sauce. foodie friendly microbes.

Next time you’re in a steak house or With dry ageing of beef, the process is butchery, ask for the dry-aged steak— relatively straight forward—portions of and you’ll soon discover that, like fine meat are placed in cool conditions with wine, beef can get better with age. GT high humidity. This is the foundation M AY

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GOOD TASTE PROMOTION

Luxury Travel Experience Scenic Iceland & the Northern Lights The Northern Lights are a spectacle to behold and the best time to view this natural phenomenon is when it is dark, cold and dry. November and December usually give guests the best show and it is recommended to spot them on a moonless night.

Outside the capital city of Reykjavik on the west coast and near Vik on the southern coast you will find two of the most magical places to see the Aurora Borealis display. Be sure to wrap up in your warmest winter woolies, this is the Arctic winter after all, and set your sights on the heavens to take in the most incredible display of light you will ever encounter.

Experience the Northern Lights first-hand when you travel to Iceland with INSIGHT VACATIONS . Go to www.insightvacations.com, or call 011-2808400. Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #InsightMoments and #InsightMomentsLG.

Let Us Take Care of Everything When unrivalled luxury, exceptional service, extraordinary cuisine and nautical excellence come together, the result is unmistakably UNIWORLD. The company’s European fleet of authentic boutique cruise liners features luxurious ships with an average capacity of 130 guests, the highest staff-toguest ratio in the river cruise industry, enticing shore excursions, world-class gourmet cuisine, impeccable hospitality, and numerous other all-inclusive benefi ts. Uniworld puts a unique spin on river cruising, with floating boutique hotels that are meticulously designed with the signature touches for which our company is known. As the world’s most renowned river cruise line, we redefine all-inclusive by combining unsurpassed luxury and attention to detail with unmatched amenities, personalised experiences, unrivalled value and incomparable service. All you need to do is pick your boutique cruise and let us take care of the rest.

Go to www.uniworld.com or call 011-280-8400.

Light and Bright Hospitality LUX* RESORTS & HOTELS helps people to celebrate life by delivering

consistently on the promise of a different kind of luxury; hospitality that is lighter and brighter. Star ratings are all very well but we do more than tick boxes in the way conventional resorts and hotels do. Since luxury means different things to from person to person, we focus on perfecting the priorities.

The resorts and hotels in the LUX* portfolio include LUX* Belle Mare, Mauritius; LUX* Le Morne, Mauritius; LUX* Grand Gaube, Mauritius; LUX* South Ari Atoll, Maldives; LUX* Saint Gilles, Reunion Island; LUX* Tea Horse Road Lijiang, Yunnan Province, China, and LUX* Tea Horse Road Benzilan, Yunnan Province, China. LUX* Lijiang and Benzilan hotels are the start of a collection of six luxury boutique hotels along an exciting new circuit of distinctive stays allowing guests to discover the legends of the Tea Horse Road first hand. Helping people celebrate life.

Go to www.luxresorts.com or call 011-234-6524.

GOOD TASTE B E S T

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

T R A V E L

MIRACLES OF

BY CARRIE HAMPTON

M

auritius has experienced a number of conservation miracles. A great many of them lie firmly at the door of eccentric Welshman Professor Carl Jones. He has singlehandedly brought several species back from the brink of extinction. He is as unconventional now as when I met him 20 years ago when I was in Mauritius for a volunteering stint with the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation. Even though Mauritius Dr Carl Jones has been Dr Jones’s

home for 30 years, he still retains his delightful Welsh lilt. In his time there, he has forged a path in the conservation of endangered species that no-one thought possible.

BACK FROM THE EDGE

Personality traits such as boyish optimism, an impudent sense of humour and refusal to accept defeat enabled Dr Jones to see a future for some of the world’s most criticallyendangered creatures where others had given up.

Take the case of the Mauritius kestrel, of which, by the late 1970s, only a

handful remained in the wild.

Enter Carl Jones. A born naturalist, the young Jones had an uncanny ability to rear kestrel chicks in his back garden in Wales. It was this unlikely talent that brought him to Mauritius, where he set about collecting kestrel eggs and reared the precious young in captivity, just like he did back home. In the space of a decade, Jones had managed to rear 333 Mauritius kestrels with his captive breeding programme. He reversed what many had thought to be a species heading for extinction. On Mauritius and the surrounding islands, Jones is

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GOOD TASTE attributed to having saved over a dozen plants and animals from extinction. That’s quite a legacy.

Most of Jones’s kestrels were released back into the wild. But therein lay another problem— Mauritius had lost over 95 per cent of its biodiversity. Exotic plants such as the highlyLower Black River Gorges invasive guava had overrun the forests and created impenetrable except conservationists, the island’s stands where native species could not lizards were fearless and approached thrive. The eco-system was so depleted us like gangsters coming to collect of suitable habitat that some of the protection money. We were there to world’s rarest birds, reptiles and plants search for the burrowing boa, last seen had nowhere to live. many years before. We never found Jones recalls how people declared, this snake and to this day it is listed as “You can’t possibly restore a whole ‘presumed extinct’. forest.” But Jones already knew the PARADISE BROUGHT BACK FROM THE power of small steps. Environmental BRINK teams—like the one I was in—were A happier outcome is Ile aux Aigrettes, drafted to cut and poison dense sections a small 27-hectare island about 850 of invasive saplings. Clearing just a few metres out to sea from the holiday square metres a day felt like a thankless resorts of Mahebourg Bay on the task, but today—20 years later—large south-east coast. Unlike the mainland, parts of the Black River Gorges National which is of volcanic origin, Ile aux Park have been restored and are bursting Aigrettes is coralline limestone and home with life. to the last remnants of dry coastal forest, On your next Mauritius holiday, head once found around most of Mauritius. south and take a hike in the park along Like much of Mauritius, the 60km of trails in hilly, forested terrain. culmination of logging, land clearance Look to the skies and appreciate the and the introduction of exotic plants Mauritius kestrels, pink pigeons and and animals almost totally destroyed pretty green echo parakeets, knowing the native fauna and flora of Ile aux they were all brought back from the Aigrettes. The saving grace was its edge by Dr Jones. declaration as a nature reserve in 1965 Jones has also tackled the offshore and the intense conservation efforts islands. I was sent to Round Island—a undertaken to restore the forest and desolate dome of rock 22,5 kilometres reintroduce species. Take a short boat offshore, with little groves of rare ride from Pointe Jerome and let an palms clinging to the remaining soil. eco-ranger take you on a two-hour Uninhabited and off limits to everyone M AY

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guided walk, introducing the area’s unique flora and fauna.

Look out for pink pigeons, Mauritius fodies and Mauritius olive white-eyes, giant tortoises, iridescent ornate day geckos, Guenther’s geckos and Telfair’s skinks. There is also a startling sculpture in the ebony forest: a bronze life-size dodo, a mute reminder of what has been lost for eternity.

THE BATMAN SILHOUETTES OF RODRIGUES

A little over 600 kilometres east of Mauritius is Rodrigues, another island with numerous conservation projects.

This special little island—just 108km² in size and with a population of around 35 000—is a marvellous destination for a truly relaxed holiday. It lacks the sophistication and the resort-filled coastline of Mauritius and takes laid back to new heights. Perhaps you’ve seen something about Rodrigues recently, as they are busy promoting tourism. Until now, though, island life in Rodrigues has focused on fishing, farming and handicrafts—especially anything made of straw. Walking out of the airport 20

Rodrigues fruit bat

GOOD TASTE

years ago, each tourist was given a straw hat—it was a lovely touch.

As in Mauritius, what seems like paradise for us isn’t always utopia for wildlife. Where there’s degradation of habitat and species, who do you call?

Dr Jones, of course. He instilled new energy to an existing project to preserve the Rodrigues fruit bat and its habitat.

This huge, harmless Batman-shaped silhouette graces the night sky in only one place on earth. Numbers once dwindled to less than 100 and one of my jobs in 1994 was to count the individuals as they exited their roost—that’s how few there were. They have now recovered to around 20 000, largely as a result of increased forest cover. But even so, such

is the importance of the Rodrigues fruit bat that a 2012 global poll by the Alliance for Zero Extinction (raising awareness of endangered species found at only one remaining site) placed the Rodrigues fruit bat at number one out of 587 global sites. The IUCN status of the bat is still ‘critically endangered’.

“HE’S DONE MIRACLES”

Dr Jones’s work to bring back species from the brink of extinction has been enough to win him recognition.

Most recently as a finalist in the 2014 Indianapolis Prize—the world’s leading award for animal conservation, honouring individuals who have made extraordinary contributions. Dr Jones’s tireless work is admired in Mauritius

too. Kailash Ruhee, Chief of Staff of the Mauritius Prime Minister said, “What Carl Jones has done in Mauritius is really a miracle.”

Next time you choose Mauritius or Rodrigues for a sun-soaked holiday, allocate some time to witness the ways in which one resolute man has made a world of difference to the wildlife and plants that make these islands unique.

Go to www.mauritian-wildlife.org. GT From 30 October 2016, Air Austral will offer three weekly flights on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays with seamless connections to and from Mauritius. For more information contact johannesburg@ air-austral.com or call 011-326-4440.

Take Care If you’re looking for a resort group that cares about the environment as much as Professor Jones, look no further than LUX Resorts & Hotels.

This group of hotels strongly believes in sustainable tourism development. They have embarked in a journey towards a carbon clean future through its project ‘Tread Lightly’, which is the offsetting of 100 per cent of the carbon emissions emitted during guests’ stay. This contribution will be used to support various offsetting projects in developing countries within the regions where LUX is operating.

LUX is also working in collaboration with Ecosur Afrique, a market-leading provider of environmental sustainability solutions through a more transparent way.

Find out more about LUX Resorts & Hotels at www.luxresorts.com.

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Good Taste Competition

WIN a holiday to Mauritius

WORTH R30 000!

You stand a chance to WIN a 4-nights stay at Radisson Blu Azuri Resort & Spa (including breakfast), with return flights from Air Mauritius—for two people.

Mauritius is a small paradise on earth. Come and live the adventure with us at RADISSON BLU AZURI RESORT & SPA. The resort is located on the north east coast of Mauritius, close to Belle Mare and Trou aux Biches. Here you can expect total relaxation. Azuri offers a village concept great for couples and families. It’s safe and protected with shops, a pharmacy, a local market, ATMs, bars, restaurants, as well as a wide range of sports and sea activities.

Radisson Blu is renowned for providing guests with world-class services and 100 per cent guest satisfaction.

o to TER: G TO EN ste.co.za, sign

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A sadhu (holy man) in Udaipur

The Taj Mahal

IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS LOVE STORIES TRANSLATED INTO ARCHITECTURE

One of the beautiful doors in Jaipur's Amer Fort

GOOD TASTE B E S T

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

T R A V E L

India

INCREDIBLE

BY SARAH DUFF WO R D S & P H OTO G R A P H Y

T

here are some sights you travel halfway across the world for, only to feel a tinge of

disappointment at how they don’t quite match up to your postcard-perfect expectations. The Taj Mahal is not one of these. India’s most famous building has a lot to live up to, and I was prepared to be impressed but not to be so emotionally affected by it.

As I stand under the main archway entrance and take in the Taj’s decorative spires lining up perfectly symmetrically, I have goose bumps down my arms. After all the buildings I’ve seen—from European cathedrals to the pyramids in Egypt—this is by far the most aesthetically astounding.

The TAJ MAHAL is one of the world’s most famous love stories translated into architecture.

Built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648

for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth, it’s been beautifully described as a “teardrop on the cheek of eternity”. I walk slowly down the pathway leading up to the building and end up spending hours wandering the building and sitting silently (despite the gaggles of selfie-snapping tour groups) watching the pearly exterior turn from offwhite to soft gold in the fading afternoon light.

As spectacular as it is, the Taj Mahal is not the only jaw-dropping sight I see on my trip

Sarah Duff travels around India and finds the country to be full of surprises and never predictable M AY

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Luxury at Th

e Oberoi Uda

ivilas in Uda

ipur

The massive courtyard of Jama Masjid in Delhi

to India. The subcontinent deals in architectural and historical riches like McDonald’s dishes out fries. The Taj sets the scene for a month-long whirlwind journey where I try to take in as much of India’s spectrum of attractions as I can. At every turn I feel the immense diversity of this colourful and confounding country.

I start my trip in DELHI, where I hop on the back of a bicycle taxi and get my first taste of choreographed chaos.

The roads are full of rusty rickshaws, hooting trucks, flower-adorned cows and sputtering motorbikes. My senses are assaulted by chanting in temples and calls to prayer in mosques, the smells of samosas frying, incense burning and spiced chai tea brewing.

This is the real India. But even amongst the non-stop energy and the noise I manage to discover pockets of serenity: a sublime red sandstone and white marble 16th-century mausoleum,

Vibrant, bustling and full of life: the Sri Meenakshi Temple in Madurai is a must see

Humayun’s Tomb, and Jama Masjid— the country’s biggest mosque, which, wreathed in a thin wintertime mist looks like an apparition.

Delhi’s historical sights are at the top of every tourist’s itinerary, but on the road to see the Taj Mahal, the landscape is littered with ancient ruins and crumbling temples. These date back far beyond the capital’s mosques and mausoleums, yet some of them are barely signposted and have not made it into the guidebooks. Civilisation in M AY

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India dates back more than 5 000 years, and these scattered remnants of the past give a sense of immemorial time etched physically on the country.

In JAIPUR, the capital of the state of Rajasthan, I stay in a living historical monument—the Rambagh Palace. Just short of two centuries old, the palace is the former residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It feels akin to living in a museum and gives a taste of royal life: I sleep in a lavish room, explore the 47-acres of gardens inhabited by cawing

GOOD TASTE

GOOD TASTE

Getting the fire ready

The unusual facade of the Hawa Mah

al (Palace of Winds) in Jaipur

Freshly foraged

A camel ride in rural Rajasthan

peacocks, eat paneer curry and buttery naan bread in the restaurant under family portraits and drink gin and tonics in the Polo Bar, adorned with the Maharaja’s polo trophies.

Rajasthan, the Land of Kings, has a lot to offer travellers. From desert dunes, tigers, forts, camels and more history than you can shake a guidebook at, to the opulent palaces of the maharajas, of which Rambagh is just one. My three highlights in Jaipur are the terracotta Hawa Mahal (the Palace of Winds) with its latticed windows overlooking a street thick

Street food in Rajasthan: delicious pakoras and kachoris

with honking traffic and placid camels.

The magnificent Amber Fort, with its Persian-carpet gardens, hall of mirrors and endless courtyards. And the City Palace, which is crammed full of intricate daggers and golden royal clothing. Southwest of Jaipur is UDAIPUR, known as the Venice of the East for its artificial lakes, crumbling mansions, narrow streets and cupola-topped palaces. The City Palace is easily my favourite of these.

Rajasthan’s largest palace, it offers a M AY

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glimpse into the lives of the maharajas spanning three centuries: tea parlours for gossiping ladies of the court and 300-year-old miniature paintings detailing extravagant wedding processions. day’s travelling via Mumbai brings me to the state of Kerala, 2 300 kilometres to the south. Even just exiting the airport, I feel like this is a different country to the one I left. In contrast to the intensity and desert climate of Rajasthan,

A

GOOD TASTE

Prepping the pine ring mushrooms

time out under ing ‘mad Tak Eric’s Resor t achscience’ Be food

coconut palms at Marar

i

Kerala is hot, humid and Meeting the locals while cruising tropical. The vegetation is lush, on Kerala's serene backwaters houses are the colour of a box of crayons and it has a low-key holiday atmosphere. I realise just how different Indian states are to one another—each one has its own languages, music, history, architecture and culture. And then there’s the food. India’s cuisine is cruising on a teak and palm thatch remarkably regionally diverse. In the houseboat for a few days. The pace north are rich, meaty, creamy curries of life in this world of emerald-green accompanied by bread whereas down rice paddies, small waterside villages south in Kerala, it’s all about coconutof waving children and gently gliding infused dishes and curries, rice, piquant fishing boats, mirrors the sway of chutneys, fish and seafood. I feast on all coconut palms fringing the water. of these happily, while drinking young This is laidback India at its best and coconuts and freshly squeezed lime a welcome break from the intensity juice. of travel in a country that doesn’t do Starting in the coastal city of KOCHI I make my way to Kerala’s backwaters. anything in half measures.

Here I explore the 900-kilometre Just when I think Kerala couldn’t get network of channels, lakes and lagoons more down-tempo, I spend a couple

'This is laidback India at its best

of days at a seaside resort at Marari Beach, a short drive south of Kochi. The gruelling regime here consists of morning yoga classes in a beach hut, swimming in the warm Arabian Sea, getting Ayurvedic head and body massages, eating my body weight in coconut curries and banana pickles, and drinking chai on hammocks stretched between palm trees.

I even dream of moving to Kerala and becoming a yoga instructor, but the road beckons me on to explore more. I wind my way eastwards through mountains, past tea, coffee and spice plantations before reaching the next state to the east—Tamil Nadu,

and a welcome break from the intensity of travel in a country that doesn’t do anything in half measures’

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A shrine dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva in a rural temple near Agra

ir sprayed with sn Sarah gets her ha g in Tamil Nadu elephant blessin

ot in an

known as the Land of Temples. Armed with a guide to some of the 330 million Hindu gods, I explore some of Tamil Nadu’s 33 000 temples, getting blessed by holy men and elephants—the latter leaving a smear of spiritual snot on my hair—along the way. Of all the temples I see, Sri Meenakshi in Madurai takes the holy cake. Dedicated to a triplebreasted goddess, it’s a six-hectare complex that includes towers adorned with thousands of rainbow-hued gods and demons, and a shopping arcade of golden goods and neon flashing light statues. It’s so unlike any other religious monument I’ve ever visited before— kaleidoscopically bewildering, noisy and brimming with life.

The road takes me further east, all the way to the coast and my last stop of

the trip, charming PUDUCHERRY. This former French colonial outpost retains much Gallic charm and flavour along with a bohemian atmosphere. You can expect cobbled French-named streets lined with pastel-coloured buildings, hip boutiques and cafés serving up crêpes, cheese-filled baguettes and great coffee. It couldn’t be more in contrast to all the other places I’ve visited on the trip. But then again what India has taught me is this country is endlessly surprising and never predictable. There’s no other place that can fire the imagination quite like India, and your experiences here—which range from breathtaking to bizarre—are likely to be among the most memorable of any travel destination you can visit. GT M AY

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A colourful Hindu temple in Puducherry

Friendly school kids in Kochi

GOOD TASTE G A L L E R I E S

A ND OTHER CU LTUR A L H A PPENINGS

Natural frame - Morkel Erasmus

Reflect and Provoke 21 May-21 June. Johannesburg-based artist, cultural activist and producer, Marcus Neustetter, reflects critically and playfully on his context through both his art and collaborative projects. His strategy has been to create and experiment with opportunities and experiences which investigate, reflect and provoke. Mostly process driven, his work offers a multidisciplinary approach from conventional drawings and installations, to mobile and

Where the Wild Things Are Now-30 April. For over 50 years the Wildlife Photographer of the Year

virtual interventions. See Marcus’s latest body of work at Circa Gallery in Jozi. Go to www.circagallery.co.za.

An Intriguing Tale

Exhibition has provided a global showcase

As part of the Artscape educational

of the world’s best nature photography.

programme, the Grade 12 isiXhosa set-

Hands down this is the most prestigious

work play, Amaza, by ZS Qangule, will be

photographic exhibition and an

in its sixth consecutive season. Amaza is a

international leader in representing the

thriller set in a rural village in the Transkei

natural world. Make a date at the V&A

where a police detective is investigating a

Waterfront, entry costs R120pp. Go to

private and personal matter. This case takes

www.waterfront.co.za.

him back to the village where he and the woman he married came from. His visit there coincides with the double funeral of a couple who were mysteriously murdered in Johannesburg. Go to www.artscape.

Perspective II, ink on paper 2016

co.za.

South Africa’s Favourite Satirist 31 May-18 June. This honest and raw performance is just Pieter-Dirk Uys propped on a barstool at Cape Town’s Theatre on the Bay. Now, at 70, Pieter-Dirk bares his soul and chats about his father, his mother, his grandmothers, censorship and Evita’s famous false Turtle flight - David Doubitet

eyelashes. To book your tickets for The Echo of a Noise go to Computicket.

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GOOD TASTE

The Greatest Instrument You’ll Ever Own

SA’s Sure Got Talent

1 March-19 June. Body Worlds Vital is

art and design competitions, the PPC

back. Make sure you plan a visit to this

Imaginarium Awards, received a

all-new, unique exhibition celebrating

record number of 698 entries—with a

the wonder of the human body. Visitors

notable improvement in the standard

will get a detailed look at the human

of the submissions. Finalists in each of

body and its intelligent design, explore

the six categories were chosen for their

how it functions and see what happens

achievements in their respective sectors.

when disease strikes. Specimens are

Congrats to the following winners: Film:

permanently preserved through the

Kyle Goulden (winner), Francois Knoetze

process of plastination. This internationally

and Zara Julius (runners-up). Fashion:

acclaimed exhibition takes place at the

Hester Erasmus (winner), Industrial

Sci-Bono Discovery Centre in Newtown,

Design:August de Wet (winner), Ivan

Johannesburg and costs between

Brown (runner-up), Sculpture: Janna Kruger

R90-R160. Get your tickets at www.

(winner), Esther Pohl (runner-up) and

webtickets.co.za.

Jewellery: Mignon Dauberman (winner).

Faretelling abundance, Acrylic on board

This year, one of the country’s top

Legrand Studio

A One-of-a-kind Story-Teller 30 March-30 April. Belgian born multidisciplinary artist Wim Legrand’s skills range from drawing, painting and printmaking to carpentry. But Legrand is, above all, a story-teller. His conceptual approach is based simply on narrative, staged in mundane, funny, eloquent and often strange stories. In 2014 he

Sculpture - Janna Kruger

founded Black River Studio in Cape Town,

Tinder Tales

a production space that collaborates with

18-30 April. After two successful and sold-

artists on fine art screen-printing projects.

out runs at the Mother City’s Alexander

Brouhaha—Layers of Racket will be on show at Cape Town’s 99 Loop. Go to

Bar, ‘Love me Tinder—Violet Online Rebooted’ is back—recharged and ready

Jewellery - Mignon Dauberman

www.99loop.co.za.

for some online action. Single and sassy, Violet continues her hilarious search

This Just In

for the perfect (online) match. Violet

8-9 April. Jimmy Carr, the English-Irish

dispenses advice on the dangers of dating

stand-up comedian, television host and

too close to home, Tinder, texting, and

actor, known for his deadpan delivery, dark

the unexpected joys of DIY. All of this,

humour and edgy one-liners, is heading

of course, is based on her own personal

over to our shores. Jimmy is one of the

experiences. Violet Online is based on

biggest selling live acts in UK comedy.

blog posts by a mystery blogger who is an

Catch him and his latest tour, Funny

over-40-year-old mother, an ex-wife and

Business, at the CTICC on 8 April or at

grammar fiend. Go to www.alexanderbar.

Jozi’s Emperor’s Palace on 9 April. Book

co.za.

your tickets at Computicket.

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A R T I S T S

Here’s more about art, from Hugo Maritz

inspiration is a myth, why do you think this?

I don’t believe you should wait for inspiration. Inspiration usually comes around later in the day after ‘struggle’ and ‘despair’. I’m joking somewhat but, really, I find the more I work the more inspired I feel. Inspiration mostly comes from trying to improve on what I did previously.

Hugo Maritz

What is the essence of a good painting?

The reality is that it’s pretty difficult to make a good painting no matter what style you work in. Long practice is your only recourse. A lot of artists play it safe and just repeat the same composition over and over with different subject matter. The truth that few people want to hear is that subject matter is by far the

easiest part of a painting—the really difficult part is composition. And an education in art can certainly help you learn what to look for, if your teacher is good and a real painter. But it’s not much help when it’s you and the canvas. Picasso said it’s very beneficial to create a serious problem and then see if you can fix it. I agree with that.

Why the interest in portraits?

Long before I was a professional artist I mostly drew figures. As a child I was inspired by comics. I wanted to make my own and that is when I taught myself to draw. Because we are human, a human figure usually communicates more to us. I’m so often asked to interpret a painting for a client. I think they assume there is some correct interpretation. This, in my opinion, ruins the whole part the audience is meant to play. There is no correct interpretation. I want the viewer’s imagination to be fired up.

You shouldn’t be required to know anything about my intention or life to interpret it.

Who is your favourite artist?

Blackwood Park

skilled, his pictures do for me what I hope to do for other people—provoke the imagination. They are also often dark and moody, which is right up my alley. GT

Dave McKean—he’s not so much a fine artist as he is an illustrator for graphic novels and such. He is my favourite because aside from being incredibly M AY

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Departure

Ithica

You can find Hugo’s work at The Rossouw Modern in Hermanus, Vincent Art Gallery in East London, Red the Gallery in Cape Town and 21 on Montagu in George. Or go to www.hugomaritz.co.za for more of Hugo’s artworks.

BY SHANNON LATIMER

You say

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The couple’s art wall greets guests as they arrive A gold baboon skull made

by Sobeit Studio

A collection of brass and copper vessels are displayed in the study

A vintage water jug and tumblers from OnSite Gallery

GOOD TASTE B E S T

D É C O R

Perfect SMALL SPACE

BY HILARY PR ENDINI TOFFOLI PHOTOGR APHY C &D HEIERLI

“O

ur art wall is the first thing visitors see when they walk into our home,” says Jean-Pierre de la

Chaumette. “Almost everyone engages with us about it and wants to know the story behind each piece.”

Artworks replace views in this Victorian cottage where JP lives with his partner Jonathan Bain.

They’re a necessary escape in a home that’s a confined space surrounded by neighbours—one of a small row of semis jostling cheek by jowl in the trendy part of Green Point—a block up from Somerset Road where property is at a premium.

The house covers 100 square metres, including a narrow strip of courtyard. Yet space is not a major issue, thanks to an ingenious renovation that entailed removing the walls of the two front rooms and making the living area open

plan. Nor does the art hijack the roominess: abstract pieces juxtaposed with photography, prints, watercolours, charcoal sketches, woodblock and oils.

“Living centrally within a city usually means you have to compromise on space,” says JP. “With the renovation we lost a bedroom but gained a lovely living space with incredible flow.” For example, though the dining table beside the kitchen island normally accommodates eight people, for Jonathan’s 40th

A creative couple use their art collection to visually extend their living area M AY

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Good TasTe birthday the couple happily seated 18 for dinner. They hired trestle tables to make one long comfortable stretch into the lounge area. xtending a small space is all about thinking out of the box, being creative and innovative.

JP combines styling interiors with his day job as a busy publicist. Jonathan is a creative director and partner in a Johannesburg advertising agency, as well as an excellent illustrator. It’s a talent he inherited from his artist mother Winnie Bain, some of whose appealing drawings and woodcuts are on these walls.

The couple split their time between this semi and their Johannesburg apartment in Sandton (where Jonathan spends the week.) That’s an even smaller property than their Green Point home.

JP says having two smaller homes is less maintenance-intensive and more manageable. Clever storage concepts keep them organised, with surfaces clear.

The kitchen island has cupboard space below, and there’s lots of vertical storage in shelves that go up to the ceiling.

In the bedroom, along with the deep drawers created for the couple in the narrow bedside tables by their friend Justin van Breda, there are pull-out units under the bed that accommodate JP’s ever-growing shoe collection.

In the bathroom next door they’ve saved space by having a wetroom for the shower, and added spice with an inspired white ceramic menagerie attached to the white tiles—small heads of rhino, ram and springbuck. On the wall opposite are three pieces they teasingly call their Blue Period: a Willow pattern plate, along with Frank van Reenen’s

E

A piece by Tomeu Ventayol the couple call ‘Tilt’, takes centre stage in the open plan kitchen and dining room. The island separates the two rooms and features storage on both sides

JP purchased the piece above the bed, by Suki Cohen, from the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy

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The study accommodates the couple’s library in h o u s a n d a n d f i f T e e colour coordinated to the ceiling - 4 8shelves -

n

Good TasTe

A vase by Kate Rosenberg sits atop the 1970’s server whilst a Berber rug from Gonsenhausers Fine Rugs adds texture to the timber floors

Ceramic animal heads add 3-dimensional fun to the bathroom wall

‘Artworks replace views in this Victorian cottage … They’re a necessary escape in a home that’s a confined space surrounded by neighbours’ Shy Girl and Sarah Pratt’s Chinese shadow puppets in a Karoo setting.

Another smart storage move was to have the attic reinforced by Loft & Ladders, and a retractable ladder attached to the trapdoor in the ceiling that they can pull down with a long hook, and fold back up again just as easily.

JP admits the attic has become a bit of a dumping ground. “We’re curating a growing collection of ‘undecided’ artworks up there. Viewing by appointment only. But we do try to be disciplined and not allow things to pile up. I regularly organise our clutter into piles for recycling, donating and selling on Gumtree. It’s an on-going chore.”

Their tastes in art overlap, with the extremes rather polarised. “As a copywriter Jonathan is partial to art involving typography,” says JP, “while I

lean more towards the abstract, which Jonathan doesn’t like so much. Yet somehow we manage to curate a suitably harmonious space. He’s also a fan of vintage posters. I’ve banished all of his Japanese James Bond movie posters to the Joburg study.”

Their art wall in the lounge area features a sizeable collection of work, stretching from floor to ceiling. One of the ways the couple refresh it is with annual trips to that British institution, the Royal Academy of Arts’ Summer Exhibition. JP used to visit it when he lived in London and it’s where he and Jonathan together bought the first piece in their collection five years ago: one of the provocative autobiographical works for which the enfant terrible of the art world, Britain’s Tracey Emin, has become famous.

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The small courtyard is inspired by a trip to Buenos Aires

JP heads up the pull-out ladder into the attic

“Tracey Emin’s Sex Sydney was initially a visceral purchase,” says JP. “The fact that it was Emin was a bonus.

It cost us £400 in 2012 when the rand was still okay, and we love it. It’s rude, androgynous and has a wonderful sense of fluidity. We were drawn to it from across the room even before we knew who the artist was. Ms Emin has been spamming us ever since.”

The two of them have attended the Summer Exhibition four times. It’s the world’s largest open submission exhibition, with over 1 000 works in all media on show, a mammoth three-month-long indication of what’s currently going on in contemporary art.

“The Royal Academy’s curation

Good TasTe

The Spanish oil painting on the back of the chimney breast is a vintage find

process generates a diverse selection of established and emerging UK-based artists,” says JP. “The wonderful thing about it is that you never know what you’re going to come home with. We treat it as a completely immersive experience and do at least two fairly brisk circuits of the halls before homing in on our favourites. Then perhaps a final slightly more languid tour of these favourites before purchasing according to our budget. Although we don’t put pressure on ourselves to buy, we never come home empty-handed.”

They often choose artworks that are thought provoking, like the print they acquired at the last Summer Exhibition entitled A Fall of Ordinariness and Light. These four fine pencil drawings

by Jessie Brennan focus on the muchdebated demolition of the London council housing estate Robin Hood Gardens, which had initially been conceived as a community utopia.

As an interiors stylist, JP knows the importance of where and how you hang your artworks. “On a recent interior

The courtyard features the Maia Armchair by Kettal and Drops side table by Tribù from marlanteak

A series of black and white artworks sit above the teak McIntosh cabinet

design project for an advertising agency I had the privilege of working with a respected gallerist and he opened my eyes to different hanging styles. Pieces with commonality were grouped together and we completely abandoned the linear style of hanging for a more haphazard approach.

“I find that laying pieces out on the floor helps to get a sense of what works and what doesn’t. I keep a pot of Polyfilla and paint, for touch-ups.

Although we don’t usually group similar styles of work together, I’ve created a bit of a black and white section in our study. Larger pieces deserve their own wall or space and you should allow breathing room to permit proper absorption.

“We don’t skimp on frames. Bad framing takes away from the art. I regularly reframe pieces, as I find an injection of new materials and colours transforms the art. Wessel Snyman Creative in The Old Biscuit Mill does our framing and always comes up with interesting techniques. I steer away M ay

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from non-reflective glass as I find it makes the art flat and static. Reflections offer movement.”

Simple, fine wood frames enclose many of their artworks, like the piece by Spanish artist Tomeu Ventayol that they fell in love with while visiting Jonathan’s aunt in Mallorca. This visually poetic abstract consists of delicately angled brushstroke lines representing Spanish rooftops, but which to an English eye forms the word TILT. It’s a striking piece and they’ve hung it in a prominent position. Here, surrounded by the Victorian ambience that gives this small space authenticity and charm—the cast iron fireplace, Oregon pine floors and tongue-ingroove ceilings—it makes a clear-cut statement about the modern artistic inclinations of the couple who live here. GT How does one go about collecting art?

Hilary Prendini Toffoli chats further to JP and Jonathan, and two gallery experts.

To read more, go to page 52.

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Good TasTe B E S T

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Art Collecting How does one go about collecting art? Hilary Prendini Toffoli chats to two art lovers and two gallery experts

By Hilary Prendini Toffoli

“B

uying art with an eventual profit in mind can take the soul out of the whole process. our purchases are always based on the heart and gut.

Having said that, if you can snap up a Gabrielle raaff or Justin fiske, we advise you to do so.” This from JeanPierre de la Chaumette and Jonathan Bain who don’t believe in buying art for investment (see page 46, for an idea of the kind of art they enjoy). “Jonathan used to work in an office where the art was bought for investment, and a lot of

it was invariably quite hideous,” says Jean-Pierre. “established galleries have their fingers on the pulse of the local art scene and being on their mailing lists prompts you to get out there to see what’s on offer. But don’t collect an artist only because he or she is on trend. and don’t buy something only because the colour appeals. you have to look at the piece every day. Trust your gut. Work should have a long life-span. if it provokes an emotional reaction

in you it will bring reward for years.

Buy art in which you keep seeing new depths.

“Gumtree has the odd treasure.

So do junk shops, if you have a good eye. Prints are more affordable these days and make owning a piece of well-known art more accessible.

We tend to opt for limited edition prints. reframing an inexpensive piece can give it instant stature. i’ve framed postcards from my travels and pages from art books. i tore a

‘You have to look at the piece every day. Trust your gut ... If it provokes an emotional reaction in you it will bring reward for years. Buy art in which you keep seeing new depths’ M AY

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GOOD TASTE

William Kentridge out of a David Krut catalogue and framed it. A friend framed theatre tickets...”

For places to find good, affordable art, the director of the Irma Stern Gallery, Christopher Peter, suggests end-of-year exhibitions of universities, colleges and art schools: “UCT’s Michaelis undergraduate show is a bun fight of dealers and people panting to buy. To acquire the art of good young artists before their prices rocket, get in at the end of second year. By their fourth year, many Michaelis graduates’ work have already been snapped up by art institutions.

Early work is sometimes better than anything that follows because the artists are at such an intense and highly charged time in their lives.

“Regarding resale investment, often it takes decades before you see a profit. Art investment is a minefield, only for those with money to burn or who are frustrated dealers. Plus, it’s hard to let go of beauty. But if you happen to find something really reasonably priced that you know has an assured market and you don’t mind parting with it, wonderful! Release it into the world and grab the money.

“The mistakes new collectors make are buying things other people told them to, without really knowing what they like or having the courage to own up to what gives them joy.

‘To thine own self be true.’ Don’t be governed by price, high or low, and above all don’t be conned into buying a signature because it’s cheap.”

According to Mark Read of the Everard

‘ Reframing

an inexpensive piece can give it instant stature’

Sighs & Traces by William Kentridge

Read Gallery in Johannesburg, the golden rule is to build up knowledge about the sort of art you’d like to collect: “It’s a worthwhile educational process. Go to the national galleries and art museums. Research the artists and the market in general. Speak to dealers in the commercial galleries, as well as the artists themselves.

Great collections are put together by people who have a feel for what they’re doing, not people who’ve just thrown it together. It’s a journey, and the collecting part should be fun, as long as you’re not dealing with galleries who just see new buyers as a meal ticket.

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“We deal with a lot of young South Africans who’re starting out as art collectors, trying to put something together that’s meaningful. We work with them. If they like a painting and can’t pay for the whole thing immediately, we let them pay in instalments. And we’re willing to change artworks. If someone feels they’ve outgrown a piece, or they don’t like it as much as they thought they did, they bring it in. I certainly don’t want to think people are walking around with our paintings at home that they hate. That’s not what this is about.” GT

GOOD TASTE BOOK REVIEWS

Alex Latimer reviews Slade House, in which an award-winning author tries his hand at horror B Y

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few years ago I was chatting to Tan Twan Eng and I got round to asking him what he was writing at the time. He was unsure

about what to write next and so I suggested he choose a random

genre out of a hat and give that a crack.

He laughed it off, of course. Genre writing and literary writing do not mix. Someone who’s won the Man Asian Literary Prize would be shooting himself in the foot if he suddenly wrote a western or a sci-fi or a cli-fi (climate fiction—it’s a real thing thanks to global warming). Readers expecting more of The Garden of Evening Mists would be enraged by anything too different, and genre fans simply wouldn’t know who Tan Twang Eng was.

But there is one mainstream author who seems to have no trouble with the idea of mixing literary writing and genre writing—and that’s David Mitchell. The last Mitchell book I read was Black Swan Green, a semiautobiographical novel. The writing was good, the characters and setting had real depth and I found the whole novel quite memorable. Mitchell’s other books are more famous—the multi-award-winning sci-fi fantasy

Cloud Atlas, The Bone Clocks and the historical drama The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet. So when I heard his latest book Slade House would be a horror, it reinforced a loose pattern and indicated Mitchell is being quite deliberate about trying his hand at genre writing. I made a note and waited for the publication date to arrive.

Sadly, I’m not convinced he pulled it off. I’ll tell you a little about the book M AY

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and then I’ll let you know why I think it failed.

The premise of Slade House is every nine years, at a certain time of day, a tiny iron door appears in the wall of an extremely narrow—and extremely difficult to find—English alley. The door leads to the bottom of a magnificent garden in which sits Slade House. Those who find the door and pass through it never return.

The book is divided into five sections, each voiced in first-person by a victim of Slade House. With every new character’s experience, we see more of the house and more of its occupants, and we begin to develop an understanding of what’s happening behind the iron door.

In theory it sounds great but unfortunately the execution lets it down.

My first problem is Voice. Voice is probably the most important thing for an author to master. It’s one of those irritating aspects of writing that if you

Good TasTe get it right no one notices, but if you get says in response to the other—“I know is—is blatant social media marketing. it wrong it’s glaringly obvious. And the perfectly well what would happen.”

This book was written so it would sell, hardest voice to get right is the voice The suspension of disbelief falls again. and that’s no bad thing in itself. It’s of a child. Slade House begins with As the reader I’m wondering why these only bad if it’s the only reason the book an account from 13-year-old Nathan two are having this conversation at has been written. And I get a feeling Bishop—and it’s littered with voice all—then the reason becomes clear: that this may be the case. Add to this errors. At one point Nathan names a so Mitchell can explain to the reader the fact that the publication date of range of flowers in the garden of Slade what’s going on. It’s lazy writing.

Slade House coincided with Halloween, House. What’s wrong with that? Well, Thirdly, Slade House isn’t scary. I and it makes this book seem more like I don’t know any a product than a ‘A character from Slade House uses an analogy to explain his 13-year-old boys work of passion. experience, and it’s an analogy that applies equally well to the who know or would Alright, enough mention the names novel as a whole: “Tonight feels like a board game co-designed David Mitchell of specific flowers. bashing. Most of

by MC Escher on a bender and Stephen King in a fever.”’

Sure, boys like that these reservations watch quite a lot of horror films. I’m exist, but putting it in a book without about the book seem to clear up as the fascinated by the filmic devices writers qualifying why he knows about flowers story goes along. The need for overt and directors use to build suspension makes me aware I’m reading a story exposition dwindles as the reader and fear. Frights are cheap and easy, written by a 46-year-old man (who learns more about the world of the but real fear building is an art. And obviously knows a thing or two about story, and the voice of the final two just like any emotion conveyed flowers) pretending to sound like a characters in the sequence is spot through film or text, fear hinges on 13-year-old boy. The best way to tell on. There’s a good level of intrigue the viewer’s connection to a character. whether the author is getting the voice that builds throughout the story and Unfortunately none of the characters right is to look out for moments in despite my reservations about Slade in Slade House are endearing or a book that make you aware you’re House, they were never severe enough developed enough to make me worry reading. Voice errors break the magic to make me put the book down. ne last thing that I do find for their safety. And so what is meant and bring a reader’s suspension of odd—and this time it’s not to be horrific passes by as mildly disbelief crashing down. A boy needs to Mitchell’s fault—is so many unsettling at best. Really good horror sounds like a boy, and a girl like a girl, reviewers have responded so positively films make me sleep with the light on, and a woman like a woman, and a man to Slade House. It perpetuates but I could read Slade House in a dark, like a man. And if they don’t, then the my theory that once you’ve been deserted mansion on a stormy night reader needs to know why they don’t. nominated for (and won heaps of) and sleep like a baby.

Second up is Exposition. Of course awards, the Emperor’s New Clothes And fourthly, in doing some every author must find a way to Syndrome kicks in. Personally, I don’t background reading on the book explain the plot of a novel, the problem think there’s anything wrong with itself, I discovered Mitchell published only arises when exposition isn’t saying Slade House is a misfire from the first chapter of Slade House as a hidden well enough. At one point in an excellent author. It happens. The Twitter novel. Don’t worry; I didn’t Slade House two characters are talking experiment didn’t work. I’ll still look know it was a thing either. Essentially, about what the House is and why it forward to his next book. GT it’s a gradual revelation of a story one exists. The problem? They are both —Slade House by David Mitchell.

140-characters at a time. It sounds very well aware of what Slade House Hodder & Stoughton, R283. exhausting to me, but what it really is and why it exists. One of them even

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GOOD TASTE B E S T

C A R S

MOTOR ING M AT TER-OF-FACTS

Jaguar’s Luxury Alternative

T

legroom, a fact not immediately apparent

Tata. The funding Tata brought to Jaguar

ride on smooth roads and excellent grip

in the past decade has seen the British

too. While the supercharged model is

company launch a slew of models that are

quite the extrovert, Good Taste’s personal

top-drawer. Tata has been shrewd enough

favourite is the 2,0 petrol model, available

to allow Jaguar to operate as it did before,

in a few trim variants. The two-litre four-

but with the blessing of development

cylinder motor is remarkably smooth

money.

and free-revving. And with 177kW on

The latest model in this happy marriage

tap there is more than enough poke to

VW Caddy Grows Up

is the new XF, the mid-sized sedan

keep you interested. Plenty of aluminium

The latest VOLKSWAGEN CADDY

that competes against the likes of the

in the construction has kept the weight

has been restyled and re-engineered

Mercedes-Benz E-Class and the BMW 5

well down, and the boot is surprisingly

and comes in a number of variants

Series. The new XF has class-leading rear

capacious.

regarding configuration. What we love

he best thing that ever happened to

as the car looks extremely sleek and

the JAGUAR brand was being taken

compact from the outside.

over by the Indian conglomerate,

VW Caddy: You won’t realise it’s a van

The new Jag has an amazingly good

about the Caddy is that it handles so Jaguar XF: A good ride with excellent grip

well, it doesn’t realise it’s a van. On the seven-seater model it is remarkably easy to remove both the second and third rows of seats, effectively turning the vehicle into a rather luxurious van for the weekend when you are entrusted to clean out the old storeroom. If really lengthy objects need to be loaded, there is the option of a front passenger seat that also folds flat. van format and a 1,6-litre 81kW

Locally, the car comes in the entry-level 2,0-litre diesel form—the Prestige—at

motor, for R234 000. The range-

R714 800 (these prices all exclude CO² tax), the mid-line two-litre petrol turbo

topper is a seven-seater with

starting at R749 100, with the top-priced engine option being the V6 Supercharged

103kW from its diesel motor that

model, selling for just under R1,2 million.

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TEXT BY STUART JOHNSTON

You can order it in a two-seater

GOOD TASTE

Upping the Technology Stakes

B

BMW’s 7 Series uses carbon fibre at the core of its construction

MW’S new 7 SERIES is adept at

wafting along roads in surreal magic-carpet fashion. Beneath its

svelte, redesigned exterior it advances the cause of automotive technology by being the first high-numbers production car to make use of carbon fibre at the core of its construction. And at the same time it skilfully melds aluminium and high-strength steel to produce a body-shell of impressive strength coupled with being light-weight.

What the BMW brings to the party is a new level of ride composure for this class of car (and that takes some doing!), high tech

The Comfort Option

the new 7’s lane-keeping device takes this

M

system a step further. It not only warns the

Merc devotees since its 2012 launch. And

driver the car is wandering off the road, or

selling up a storm. Time flies and now

out of its lane, but automatically tugs the

there is already a face-lifted model with

steering back on course.

a slightly sharper nose, LED lights and a

that includes gesture command for its new infotainment and car-configuration control panel and, yes, a degree of autonomous driving. As part of the new steering system,

So, if you are bucking the trend towards top-end SUV’s, this should be the one on

ERCEDES-BENZ’S A-CLASS

A major upgrade for Merc’s A-Class

hatch has been a gamechanger for the company—

lining up a whole new generation of

range of new wheel choices.

The major upgrade has been the fitting of new, more comfortable suspension to the

your shopping list.

models—including the mid-line 220d and the sporty Mercedes-AMG A45. This all-wheel-

Engines range from a three-litre

drive, low-slung hatch has also had a power hike to 280kW, which is amazing from a mere

straight-six diesel—which is superb—

four-cylinder turbo engine. It will run the 0-100km/h sprint in just 4,2 seconds—a time

through to a four-litre V8, and V12.

previously the preserve of seriously focused sports cars.

Prices start at R1,3 million and top out

Prices for the revised A-Class start at R391 252 for the A200 and top out at R688 833

at R1,9 million.

for the A45.

30 APRIL-2 MAY 2016 STELLENBOSCH SANDRINGHAM

FESTIVAL TIMES ARE FROM 10:00 TO 18:00 DAILY TICKETS: R150 PER PERSON | SENIOR CITIZENS: R100 | CHILDREN (-13 YEARS): FREE Tel: +27 21 975 4440/1/2/3 • www.cheesefestival.co.za

pages/Cheese-Festival

@SACheeseFest

Not just wine, some beers can go well with cheese too

Jean-Vincent Ridon always has a ready smile

We get straight down to it. The most important factors in pairing cheese and wine comes down to fat versus acidity.

“You also need to be careful that the tannins in wine don’t overwhelm the creaminess of the cheese,” says JeanVincent. “Rather play with acidity.”

Although, he admits, the tomato leaf flavour typically found in Cabernet Franc is often complementary to cheese.

An overhead lamp made of a hollowed out Parmesan wheel casts a halo around Luke as he slices into the Reblochon, ‘a stinker’.

“Once you touch it, you keep it for the day,” laughs Jean-Vincent.

“This is another fantastic raw milk cheese from the expert hands of Barry Sergeant,” enthuses Luke.

“His Reblochon can be large or small, the larger version is crumblier than its French namesake, but is equally as pungent, if not more so. Think brandy, bacon, Marmite, Lapsang Souchong tea, oxtail, teenagers’ socks, and more.”

Jean-Vincent pulls a cork out of a bottle of Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. “Sauvignon Blanc on its own can be too phenolic for cheese. As a cool climate wine, with no astringency,

it’s a good match for spicy cheeses.

“The Sémillon in the blend gives the mouth-coating effect that you look for when pairing wine and cheese,” he continues.

Why is this important? “Cheese is a blend of protein and fat. Wine will usually overpower your taste buds, so it needs to have a viscous effect in order to balance the cheese fat that would otherwise saturate your senses.”

Our focus shifts to the next cheese: Belnori’s Forest Phantom, a goats’ cheese, aged in ash hailing from Bapsfontein in Gauteng.

“The white mould grows in the first couple of weeks and is swiftly followed by a brain-like ‘Geotrichum’ [type of fungi] rind,” says Luke.

“You can make boots from it,” quips Jean-Vincent, alluding to its crocodile skin appearance.

The cheese gets its name from the white mould that grows around it, which is referred to as a ‘forest’. And while attractive to look at, the vegetable ash also adds alkalinity to the cheese.

The ash, incidentally, was used in times before refrigeration to keep the flies off the curd.

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Wild cheese-making at its best

GOOD TASTE BEST SOMMELIERS

We chat to Tinashe Nyamudoka, head sommelier at The Test Kitchen, about how his personality brought him to wine

BY MALU LAMBERT

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PHOTOGRAPH BY JASON VD MERWE

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stewards with opaque ways. inashe Nyamudoka cuts “Wine is my life. In the a striking figure. He’s restaurant, it’s all about sharing silhouetted against the wines, and sharing experiences,” light streaming in from The Pot he says. Tinashe says people Luck Club’s bar window. Suited want to hear the stories behind up, he’s dressed to kill. the wines and not necessarily all Head sommelier and beverage the technical details that go into manager of The Test Kitchen (the Tinashe showcases the making it. world’s 28th best restaurant), this best MCCs from this mobile “Restaurant-goers have become is how he usually looks. cart, moving it around the restaurant. It was custom more open-minded and want The Zimbabwean native’s wine built for Chef Luke by Andre to drink wines they’ve never knowledge is as sharp as his dress Strijdom of Thurteen Worx tried before. People are also sense. He wasn’t always interested ‘When not charming people in the less concerned with the labels in wine. His entrance into the restaurant, or searching for the perfect wine [producers], and are more world of wine was through interested in the style of wines.” waitering at The Roundhouse. He match, you’ll find Tinashe tasting wine for When not charming people says the training “was intense”.

Wine-of-the-Month Club’s panel’ in the restaurant, or searching “I didn’t even know what an He’s been at The Test Kitchen now for the perfect wine match, you’ll find oyster was,” he admits, laughing. “Back for just under a year. What’s it like Tinashe tasting wine for Wine-of-thethen they were looking for people working with Chef Luke Dale-Roberts?

Month Club. He has been guest tasting with personalities, rather than wine “He’s constantly trying new things in for the panel for some time now, but the knowledge.” the kitchen,” he says. “The menu is news is out and he’s officially part of He’s certainly made up for lost time. always changing—sometimes even just the wine tasting panel. So, you can rest From there he went to the Showroom, before a shift! So, I’m always on the assured when ordering your next wine and after that closed down he headed hunt for perfect wines to match the new pack that a little flare and passion has to One&Only Cape Town, where he dishes.” Tinashe says it’s a creative and been added to the wine choices. worked as part of a wine team at collaborative atmosphere, “We often When at home, you’ll find him in the both Nobu and Reuben’s. It was at taste together and come up with wines kitchen. “I love to cook. I try and copy the latter where he won the award for to best suit the dishes.” what they do in the restaurant. When best Wine Steward in the Cape Legends It’s sommeliers like Tinashe who are I’m tasting the chefs’ food I ask them a Inter Hotel Challenge. He then spent 14 ushering in a new age of wine service. lot of questions—so that I can try for months at The Oyster Box Hotel in The tide is turning against snooty wine myself when I get home.” GT Umhlanga Rocks.

A NIGHT ON

THE TOWN

Diners Club recently hosted an exclusive evening of delicious cuisine with perfectly-paired wines to thank their premium cardholders at Maximillien restaurant at the DaVinci Hotel Guests were greeted with a glass of Montaudon Champagne for an evening of culinary creations paired with top-rated wines from Rust en Vrede: The Stellenbosch Reserve and Donkiesbaai.

Jean Engelbrecht from Rust en Vrede and executive chef Sawan Hurkhoo collaborated to offer something new and interesting, specially created for the evening.

Jean expertly paired his wines to the four-course menu and entertained guests with stories and anecdotes attached to each wine.

Guests were treated to take-home goodies sponsored

by Rust en Vrede, Clarins, Lindt and Wings.

GOOD TASTE B E S T

P A I R I N G

Try this pork belly recipe—from My Little Black Recipe Book—and enjoy with one of these Chardonnays

Garlic and Sage Roasted Pork Belly Serves 4-6 If you don’t mind a lot of garlic, serve with garlic mash!

• • • • •

1. Preheat the oven to 160ºC. 2. Score the skin of the pork belly, rub olive oil all over and then rub the salt into the skin.

3. Arrange the garlic on the roasting dish and place the pork in the dish, skin side up. Roast for 2 hours.

4. Turn the oven to 180ºC, add the sage and roast for 30-45 minutes or until the skin is golden and crunchy.

2.5kg pork belly 60ml olive oil 30ml Maldon salt 2 heads garlic, halved handful of sage leaves

My Little Black Recipe Book by Siphokazi Mdlankomo “Cooking is my life”, says MasterChef SA 2014 runner up, Siphokazi Mdlankomo. In My Little Black Recipe Book she shares her favourite recipes, from the simple scones and ginger beer her mom taught her to make, to mouth-watering braised oxtail, cinnamon cream pears and other sumptuous fare she developed on her way to the Masterchef finale. Metz Press, R241.

For these wines go to: www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Try this recipe with one of these Chardonnays:

SIMONSIG CHARDONNAY 2014

WATERFORD ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2013

LOTHIAN VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2013

Shy lemon butter and lime aromas, will develop further. Dry-ish with citrus overtones of orange marmalade. The oak is very subtle, soft finish. R98

Mineral-driven aromatics supported by citrus blossoms and lime cordial, as well as soft, roasted almond underlying notes originating from subtle oak. R169

Medium weighted with good texture supporting fresh tropical fruits within a focused, citrus driven acidity. Crisp with a long dry finish. R159

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Good TasTe PromoTion

Restaurants in the Winelands Award-Winning, with a View With sweeping views of Table Mountain, Table Bay and the vineyards that surround the cellar, the restaurant at Durbanville Hills offers a unique dining experience. And it’s award-winning too, being named Best Restaurant in the Winelands by the 2015 Restaurant Week South Africa Awards.

The restaurant is a light and contemporary space with a double volume ceiling, wood finishes, earthy tones and South African art. Chef Louisa Greeff selects all her ingredients from local producers, an approach that lends a special touch to her dishes. “Fresh produce is central when I design my dishes. Local creamy full fat yoghurt, artisan cheeses, fresh farm herbs and vegetables makes it easy to experiment with flavours and textures.

Incorporating good quality fresh ingredients together with spices, butter, love and passion adds a special touch that can be experienced with every bite.”

Open for breakfast and lunch (Tue to Sun), and dinner on selected evenings.

Go to www.durbanvillehills.co.za or email info@durbanvillehills.co.za.

Destination Dining at Its Best Over the years Haute Cabrière has long charmed visitors with its perfect marriage of fine wine and gourmet cuisine. Now, with the arrival of new Head Chef Dennis Strydom, this iconic family-owned estate is evolving the menu at its cellar restaurant to offer a more relaxed bistro-style experience. A key component of this young chef’s philosophy is to let the finest local produce shine through. This includes incorporating fresh produce from the restaurant’s vegetable gardens into the menu.

While the new à la carte and tasting offering cement Haute Cabrière’s position as a sought-after destination-dining venue, the casual Terrace menu remains hugely popular with tourists and travellers looking for a light bite before or after a wine tasting experience in the cellar.

Open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, on Sunday for lunch only from 12-3pm. Terrace menu available from Tuesday to Saturday from 3-5.30pm during summer. Email restaurant@cabriere.co.za or call 021-876-3688.

A Tantalizing Menu tokara restaurant offers its guests terroir-focused contemporary cuisine,

award-winning wines and dramatic views over Stellenbosch and False Bay. Multi-awarding winning chef Richard Carstens leads the kitchen team.

Dishes are inspired by pure flavours and tantalizing textures. The à la carte menu changes every season, while daily specials offer something new and exciting to returning guests. The menu also offers more playful creations on a seven-course chef’s menu, each course optionally paired with premium South African wines. The dishes offered on the à la carte menu, chef’s menu and daily specials appeal to young and old time and again.

A new feature of the renovated restaurant includes a bar with a clear view of the hustle and bustle in the kitchen or the sun setting through a picture window.

Open for lunch Tuesdays to Sundays and for dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays.

Call 021-885-2550 or email reservations@tokara.com.

GOOD TASTE BEST WINEMAKER PERSONALITIES

Dawie Botha

Red, for Sure Dawie Botha, winemaker at Anthonij Rupert Wyne, on red wines, his travels and this year’s harvest

What did you want to be when you were ten years old?

What is your favourite wine and food combo when cooking at home?

And what do you think of our 2016 harvest so far?

Black Wildebeest fillet braaied at home, with a

I think it will be a relatively difficult vintage

A table grape farmer, just like my dad. Who

well-aged Cabernet Franc—shared, of course,

because of the heat early in the season and

doesn’t want to live on a farm in the Boland?

with friends and family.

very low rainfall the previous winter. This will result in a smaller crop with early high

What is your favourite vineyard site?

And your favourite wine to drink?

sugars and relatively low acidities. Those

The L’Ormarins Estate Vineyards—the

The Anthonij Rupert Optima. It is a full-

who were lucky enough to have enough

decomposed granite soils and the North

bodied, well-balanced, blended wine

water for irrigation will produce very full

Westerly slopes make it ideal for Cabernet

(Bordeaux style) that you can drink now or

and concentrated wines. I think the key to

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. From

age for another ten years or more.

this vintage is to taste the grapes and be very precise about when you will pick. We are

this great terroir we receive deep and dark structured wines. These three key Bordeaux

What in particular impressed you when doing a harvest in Bordeaux?

varietals contribute the biggest part of our

Well, in Bordeaux I worked close to Saint-

Anthonij Rupert range.

Émilion at Château Angélus and their other

red fruit flavours, which make for very full-

extremely happy with the wines from our properties so far.

winery Château de Francs. The first thing I

You’ve travelled quite a bit for work, but what is your favourite place to holiday?

Which do you prefer to work with, red or white?

learned there was the attention to detail in

Yes, I have travelled quite a bit through

the vineyards, and how well they know their

Europe and the USA, but my favourite place

Red, for sure. Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon

terroir. When they pick the grapes they know

is right here in South Africa, in Still Bay. I also

are two of my favourite varietals. They are two

exactly what they want to do with them in the

love Mozambique and Namibia—just me, the

versatile cultivars that you can either pick at

winery, from the fermentation to what barrel

wife, and my bakkie, and we just see where

the red fruit or ripe fruit stage. They are well

they want to use for ageing. And from work in

the road takes us.

suited to our area and can handle harsh weather

both France and the USA, I learned the value

conditions. Because they ripen fairly late in the

of grape sorting between vineyard and tank.

Dawie says his winemaking style reflects the

season you can get phenolic ripeness with a

Something else I picked up that is

knowledge he acquired during his travels and,

decent sugar level. In the cellar they can handle

important—which is for some reason

stylistically, his wines show the complexity and

extended skin contact. These qualities are

frowned upon in South Africa—are the long

depth typical of Old World wines, while still

perfect for big, bold, well-structured wines that

lunches with wine and an afternoon nap

reflecting the more upfront fruit and liveliness

can handle new oak for up to 24 months.

during the harvest season.

characteristic of wines from New World regions.

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GOOD TASTE

The winemaker's selection Dawie Botha’s Favourites Anthonij Rupert Optima 2012

A Terroir-Specific Focus Anthonij Rupert Wyne was founded on the farm, L’Ormarins in Franschhoek.

“Alluring, spicy, aromatic overlay to dark berry and plum fruit with blackcurrant leaf and hint of cracked black pepper and violet. Layered and harmonious. Rich, plush and nuanced with an aftertaste that lingers.”

Originally owned by the late Anthonij Rupert, who passed away in 2001, the farm was taken over in 2003 by his brother Johann Rupert and the brand named after him. It was Johann Rupert who constructed a state-of-the-art winemaking facility, transformed the farm into a prestigious wine estate and the beginnings of what is now a sprawling wine enterprise.

The focus is on terroir-specific wines, with the aim of building a portfolio of farms representing the best in grape-producing locations. The collection is made up of L’Ormarins in Franschhoek, Rooderust in Darling, Riebeeksrivier in the Swartland, and Altima in isolated Elandskloof. Individually, each site offers optimum varietal specific growing conditions, allowing Anthonij Rupert Wyne to produce some of the best true-to-type wines for their different brands.

Anthonij Rupert Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 “Blackcurrant, cassis and violets on the nose.

Fruitcake and blackcurrants, tinged with deep mocha notes and a hint of violets on the palate. Refined and elegant with a layered, structured complexity. Soft, silky and lingers long.”

Anthonij Rupert's Five Labels: ANTHONIJ RUPERT is the flagship range and represents their pinnacle of quality. Here

only the best grapes are used, from the best suited terroirs, and the berries are processed with some of the most sophisticated machinery in winemaking today.

The CAPE OF GOOD HOPE range pays tribute to the vinous heritage of the Western Cape, using grapes from ancient vines and unique sites. The range celebrates an impressive legacy of terroir, climate, soil and grape variety.

The L’ORMARINS range focuses on innovation. Their first Méthode Cap Classique is now successfully challenging this growing market.

As an homage to the late Anthonij Rupert, the TERRA DEL CAPO range reflects his passion for establishing some of the finest of Italian varietals on South African soils, with three distinctly Italian wines.

The PROTEA range is made up of more accessible wines and bears the name of South Africa’s national flower, as well as the shape-shifting Greek God, Proteus. And, as is also the case with the flower, it illustrates a wide diversity in range.

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Anthonij Rupert Cabernet Franc 2010 “Blackberry pastille notes vie with origanum, cocoa, graphite and fynbos on the nose. Spicy black berry fruit, cocoa and cinnamon spice with a light brush of herbs.

Dry, fine tannins are noticeable but provide grip. Plush, layered, elegant and long.”

Give these wines a try. Call us on 086-111-WINE (9463) to order.

GOOD TASTE O U R PA N E L R E P O RT S

The panel tastes its favourite category together with its least favourite, and there are surprises all round

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It’s time for our favourite category—Dry White Blends—and we’re smiling. But are we? Some of the time, but not all of the time—and of a category—so much promise, so much creativity, and when it’s right it’s sublime. We’ve been seduced and charmed—but at other times, as promising blends unravel, just plain disappointed.

Dry White Blends: A Blending Party We talk about the philosophy of blending and the discussion gets quite airy fairy, “When a winemaker blends then he or she really makes wine. Blenders really do something worthwhile,” says Colin.

Winnie thinks all white blends should

be good because we do it very well in SA, and special guest Tinashe says that while they’re not necessarily 5-star wines, they’re a joy to drink. Now what more could you possibly want?

We agree that these days there are more building blocks to play with— varieties like Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc, all Rhône varieties, are bringing something new to the blending party. They’re bringing lower acids, more breadth and flavours of dried herbs and scrub, and dried fruits. The well-established ones such as Gewürztraminer (for aroma), Sauvignon Blanc (for acidity) and Chardonnay (for depth and breadth) continue with their valuable contributions. And the fabric that so often holds these together is our trusty Chenin.

With choices like these it’s easy to put together a super blend, but to make it mind- and palate-blowing takes a maestro. It seems we are not short of them either. It’s interesting that while M AY

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the white blends excite the panel, the red blends are not in the same league. Interesting, yes, but not quite there yet.

A blend has the capacity to almost always surpass a single varietal wine.

If perfect grapes are harvested from a perfect site in a perfect vintage then, yes, a single variety can be superb. But that’s a lot of “ifs” and those perfect sites are legendary and very scarce. In the meantime, there’s reality; any lack in a wine can be rectified by blending— higher acidity, more body, more aroma can easily be crafted. A blend can also be made just for sheer fun and exhilaration, not just to fix up a wine.

Better balance, better structure and, darn it, better taste and aroma is what we need—and blending is the way to go.

We start to talk about styles, inevitably.

“Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blends are not good unless they come from a cool climate,” notes Clive. Christine agrees saying, as our climate is so much warmer, we see more tropical flavours,

STOCK IMAGE: ISTOCK.COM

some of us, for only some of the time. This is becoming a real minx

GOOD TASTE but those from cooler vineyards have the edge.

Buks prefers those with more body, “I like those that are fuller and especially those with Sémillon or Viognier. They do well here, so use them.”

Clive is in love with the Rhône varieties.

“I wish there were more of these,” he says. “Innovative blends with Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc charm me and bring something extra to the table.”

From Irina: “Please no more Sauvignon Blanc/Chenin Blanc blends. They’re simple and we can do better than that. I know it mops up a lot of wine, but let’s add something extra.”

Then the problems. High acidity is the biggest culprit and very often the result of early-harvested grapes.

Winemakers pick early in response to overseas markets, which want wines with lower alcohols. To do this, grapes are harvested before they are fully ripe, when the acids are still very high, and the result is a green acidic wine. Now who wants to eat green, unripe grapes? Other problems are odd flavours and lean, austere wines.

But Christine consoles us. “Somehow not all the low alcs are bad,” she says.

“Blending works here and the aromatics help, too.”

From Buks: “I would like to see better unwooded blends. All the effort seems to go into the wooded wines and consumers would get good value if the unwooded wines were better.”

Some Hope for Merlot After years of disappointment there seems to be some light at the end of this particular tunnel. Comments,

this time round, are less harsh—rather like the softer tannins we are finding now. Tinashe puts his finger on it, “Trying to make a blockbuster out of Merlot doesn’t work. When the wines are juicy and light, or commercial, they work well.”

“I enjoy the nose … but then I have to taste the stuff,” complains Buks.

“But some of the colours are nice,” says Colin. Talk about damning with faint praise. He goes on, “Half of these, at least, were drinkable. Half had none of that ‘mule-kick’ tannin.”

It’s accepted throughout the industry that hard, green tannin is the problem with Merlot. All the stories about Merlot being soft and fleshy are just stories, the reality is different.

From Irina: “I have trouble understanding why we have this tannin problem because the guys are so darn good at managing tannins these days. They’re even making Cabernet with soft, ripe tannins, but they just don’t get it right with Merlot.”

Clive answers: “The problem is in the vineyard—uneven ripening combined with bad canopy management and sorting of grapes.”

“They probably need to sort it grape by grape,” interjects Colin. “Merlot is the wine I recommend for serving to guests who’ve overstayed their welcome.”

However, and aside from the criticisms, this tasting, for the first time in a long time, brings some hope. In the meantime, only ever buy a bottle or two of Merlot, never a whole case. Or, better still, rely on people like our panellists to sort out the wines for you. GT M AY

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WINE TASTED BY THE PANEL Cabernet Sauvignon – Winners out of 20 WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Landskroon Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ALSO LIKED: Bonnievale Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Bosman Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Protea Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Weltevrede 1912 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Arabella Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Backberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Balance Winemakers Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, De Bos Handpicked Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Holden Manz Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Journey's End Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Klawer Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, La Capra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Neethlings Hof Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Stonybrook Ghost Gum Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Viljoensdrift River Graneur Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Waverley Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Weltevrede Hard Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Dry White Blends – Winners out of 20 WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Lemberg Lady White 2013 ALSO LIKED: Allée Bleue Isabeau 2013, De Morgenzon Maestro White 2014, Rickety Bridge The Foundation Stone White 2013, Sijnn White 2013 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Allée Bleue Starlette Blanc 2014, Allée Bleue Starlette Blanc 2015, Deetlefs Estate De Hageveld White 2013, Deetlefs Stonecross Chenin Blanc/ Chardonnay 2014, Deetlefs Stonecross Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2014, Hermanuspietersfontein Die Bartha 2012, Highlands Road Sine Cera 2013, Kleine Rust White 2014, Laborie Chardonnay/Pinot Noir 2014, Miss Molly Hoity Toity 2014, Spier Discover White 2014, The Pie White 2014, Vondeling Petit Blanc 2014, Whalehaven Viognier/ Chenin/ Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Zevenwacht Tine Mine White 2014

Merlot – Winners out of 20 WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Mochavino Coffee Merlot 2013 ALSO LIKED: Creation Merlot 2013, Creation Reserve Merlot 2013, Spier Signature Merlot 2014, Whalehaven Merlot 2012 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Barton Merlot 2013, Boplaas Merlot 2013, Clos Malverne Merlot 2013, Compagnies Wijn Merlot 2013, De Meye Merlot 2012, Glenwood Merlot, 2013, Hoopenburg The Guru Merlot 2013, L'Avenir Merlot 2013, Lourensford Merlot 2013, Mount Rozier The Bookeeper Merlot 2014, Oldenburg Merlot 2012, Ondine Merlot 2011, Raka Barrel Select Merlot 2013, Steenberg Merlot 2011, Thelema Merlot 2011

Sauvignon Blanc – Winners out of 20 WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Steenberg Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ALSO LIKED: Allée Bleue Green Label Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Eagle's Nest Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Oak Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Strandveld Pofadderbos Sauvignon Blanc 2014 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Almenkerk Lace Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Almenkerk Sauvignon Blanc 2013, De Wetshof Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Hathersage Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Kanu Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Klein Consantia KC Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Leopard's Leap Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Môreson Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Neil Jouberg "Enita" Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Palesa Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Raka Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Rhino Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Rooiberg Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Star Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Three Peaks Sauvignon Blanc 2014

GOOD TASTE B E S T

W I N E S

Here is a listing of this issue’s club selections. For more information call us on 086 111 WINE (9463) THE PLATINUM CLUB—Top of the well-known brands

The Wine-of-the-Month Club Panel, from left to right: David Biggs, Margaret Fundira, Winnie Bowman, Colin Collard, Claude Felbert, PJ ‘Buks’ Nel, Christine Rudman, Gregory Mutambe, Clive Torr, Irina von Holdt, Tinashe Nyamudoka

• Saxenburg Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Bottle Price: R275.00

• Mullineux Syrah 2013 Bottle Price: R295.00

• Waterford Library Collection 3BB 2009

How the Panel Chooses the Wines

Bottle Price: R515.00

• Flagstone Writer’s Block Pinotage 2013

The Wine-of-the-Month Club panel conducts

Bottle Price: R229.00

more than 40 tastings in a year. A minimum of

• Radford Dale Chardonnay 2014

40 wines are assessed at each tasting. Before the

Bottle Price: R198.00

tasting of a particular category, producers are

• Ken Forrester FMC 2013

requested to submit bottled samples of available

Bottle Price: R399.99

vintages. All wines are tasted blind. Each judge’s score is taken into account. Wine-of-the-Month Club selections are chosen from among those

THE RESERVE CLUB—Winning wines, regardless of price

wines which achieve the highest scores in their respective categories. If two or more wines achieve

This month’s favourite wine:

the same score, the wine with the lowest price is

Painted Wolf Pictus III 2011

selected as the winner. Best Value Club wines are

Best Bordeaux Blend out of 20 – Bottle Price:

taken from entries that achieve high scores but

R189.00

are priced below the average of their respective

A rich, full-bodied wine which combines charm

categories. Reserve Club wines must score an

with power. Red berry and spicy, with a long,

average of not less than 15 out of 20. Wines in

polished finish. Drink for another 10 years.

restricted quantities are issued as limited-release

Serve with your favourite red meat dish.

wines while Platinum Club selections are chosen from among premium-priced wines.

• La Courronne Portside Red 2013

Members of the panel give their comments

Best Bordeaux Blend out of 20 – Bottle Price: R69.95

before knowing the name or origin of a winning

• Moveable Feast 2013

wine. The rankings of entrants in a tasting are not

Non-Bordeaux Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R379.00

published although winemakers can request the

• Lanzerac Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

scores achieved by their wines or their rankings.

Best Cabernet Sauvignon out of 20 – Bottle Price: R149.00

Members of the panel are paid a fee for judging.

• Waterkloof Circle of Life White 2012

The Wine-of-the-Month Club is an independent

Dry White Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R149.00

organisation and is not affiliated to any producer.

• Ken Forrester Roussanne 2013 Best Unusual White out of 20 – Bottle Price: R239.00 M AY

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GOOD TASTE

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB—Panel selections with

DID YOU KNOW?

price a consideration

Visit our blog for a peek at the Wine

This month’s favourite wine:

Club Panel’s top wine picks each week,

Terra Del Capo Sangiovese 2013

interesting wine info, and much more.

Go to www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Unusual Red Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R79.99 A touch chalky but then the tangy blue and blackberry fruit and rich red plum spice

BEST VALUE CLUB—High-scoring wines offering value

take over. Succulent and juicy in the mouth.

for money

Integrated and harmonious. Light and appealing. Drink by end 2017. Pair with

This month’s favourite wine:

rich roasted meat or hard cheeses.

Flagstone Truth Tree Pinotage 2014

• Steenhuis Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Pinotage Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R79.99

Cabernet Sauvignon Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R119.99

• Compagnies Wijn Shiraz/Mourvèdre NV

Upfront, dark berries with dark chocolate and subtle spicy undertones. Flavours of

Non Bordeaux Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R109.00

• Stellenrust Cabernet Franc 2011

darker blackberry and cherry, with hints of dark chocolate and spicy oak. The palate is

Unusual Red Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R129.00

• Quartet Reserve White 2015

surprisingly rich and beautifully balanced.

Drink now or by end 2016. Enjoy with

Dry White Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R75.99

• Simonsig Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc 2015

venison, red meats and casseroles.

Sauvignon Blanc Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R75.00

• Rietvallei Classic Chardonnay 2015

• Klaasenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Chardonnay Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R87.99

Cabernet Sauvignon Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R89.00

• Doolhof Lady in White 2010

• Giant's Peak Shiraz 2012

Dry White Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R75.99

Shiraz Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R88.00

• Meerkat Sun Angel NV Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R54.95

• Rooiberg Cape White Colombar 2015 Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R49.99

• Theuniskraal Bouquet Blanc 2015 Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R39.50

• Stellenrust Picalot Non Bordeaux Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R79.99 • Ayama Leopard Spot White 2013 Dry White Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R59.99 • Strandveld Adamastor 2012 Dry White Blend Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R95.00 • Spier Inspire Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R62.95 • Sentinel Chenin Blanc 2014 Chenin Blanc Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R71.50

DID YOU KNOW?

• Meerkat Sun Angel NV

For corporate or personal gifting options, go to www. wineofthemonth.co.za/promotions/corporate-gifting.

Choose from top wines & whiskies and we'll deliver

Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R54.95 • Rooiberg Cape White Colombar 2015 Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R49.99 • Theuniskraal Bouquet Blanc 2015

them for you, in a velvet-lined box.

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Off Dry/Sweet/Semi-Sweet Selection out of 20 – Bottle Price: R39.50

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GOOD TASTE BEST WINEMAKER PERSONALITIES

‘You leave your mark on a wine’ Johann Fourie, winemaker at KWV, on his favourite winemaking site, predictions for the 2016 harvest, places he’d like to see, and food and wine combinations

Johann Fourie

a 360-degree view of the Cape Winelands.

probably the star grape of the 2016 vintage,

It is so quiet up there, with nothing else

so far.

Have you always wanted to be a winemaker?

happening apart from the sound of growing

On the red wine side, we are seeing lower

vines. It is such a contrast to the hustle and

alcohol levels, which will result in beautifully

I was bitten by the wine bug during my

bustle of what happens at the foot of the

balanced wines. We are also seeing juicy

studies at Elsenburg. During this time I

mountain.

reds with immense fruit concentration and

visited wine farms in Stellenbosch and was enticed by the way winemakers spoke about

structure as a result of smaller, compact

Do you have a prediction for this year’s harvest?

berries and bunches and lower crops. This

their wines. The diversity in winemaking is what excited me most—from the very

In some areas this vintage has been

Sauvignon, but then again, it’s early days.

technical as well as the creative side of the

recorded as the driest yet. A dry winter

process, to the taste of the wine itself, along

followed by a dry ripening period leads to

vintage, wine lovers are advised to stock up

with the ability to enjoy and share the fruit

quite a few farms having to use irrigation,

sooner than later to avoid disappointment.

of your labour. I also realised that the wine

where available, very judiciously. The dry

you make carries your unique influence—

conditions result in lower than normal

like a fingerprint. I liked that.

yields in some areas and it also causes some

Do you have someone you go to for advice?

cultivars to ripen earlier than normal. We’ve

Yes, I have a couple of winemakers who I

What is your favourite vineyard site?

been lucky to have even ripening in our

often call on for help, ideas, feedback and

Our Perold Vineyard which is right on

vineyards, which makes for less intervention

input on various matters. People like Willie

the ridge of Paarl Mountain, at just over

in the vineyard, fewer pickings and grape

Burger, Henri Swiegers, Bertus Fourie,

500 metres above sea level. This vineyard

sorting, and overall better quality.

Richard Rowe, Neil Ellis and Charles

bears the fruit of our flagship wine; it also

Consumers can expect elegant, fresh and

year my money is on Pinotage and Cabernet Overall, 2016 is going to be a small

Hopkins. These are men who are humble

boasts magnificent views. Up there you are

easy drinking white wine with softer acidity

and put the wine industry first. They are

elevated above the entire Paarl valley, with

levels. In my opinion, Chenin Blanc is

men who take the time to talk, invest, share

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GOOD TASTE and mentor youngsters like myself.

What's your favourite grape to work with?

I read something the other day that really

What is your favourite wine and food combo?

summed it up for me: ‘Making wine is like

I’m a bit of a travel addict and love exploring

are they different’. I guess that’s what I enjoy

different cultures, with that comes tasting

about making wine from a wide variety of

different cuisines. You can serve me

grape cultivars from grape growing regions all

something spicy any day, anything along the

over the Western Cape, as we do here at KWV.

lines of Lebanese, Turkish, Indian or Thai/

No two wines or vintages can be approached

Eastern, and I’m happy. I do pair my food

the same way, they all react differently in

with whatever I’m drinking, but it’s also

the vineyard and cellar and it’s up to you to

worth mentioning that pairing wine with

make sense and adapt your approach to get

the occasion, setting, mood and people are

to the desired end result or wine style. I’m

equally important factors for me.

driven by what’s new, innovative and different:

having children: you love them all but, boy,

Grenache Rouge and Sémillon as standalone

Is there a winemaking region/country you would like to visit and learn from?

wines, for example.

I’ve never been to New Zealand. I’m a fan

the-month keeps changing all the time.

But to answer your question, my flavour-ofGT

of their wines from a stylistic point of view, and it’s been on my bucket list for a long

Johann and his wife, Tanja, have been married

time to go there and get to grips with what

for eight years. They have two children, Lize

they are doing. I’m also interested in visiting

(5) and Louhan (2). Tanja’s the Marketing

emerging wine countries like China, India

Manager at a wine estate on the outskirts of

and Russia. I’m sure there’s lots for us to

Paarl. Johann’s job requires him to be away from

learn from them, especially considering how

home a lot, but he’s a believer in ‘happiness is

innovative some of them have to be to be

homemade’, “and that’s exactly what home, my

able to grow wine in the first place.

wife and two kids, are to me—happiness”.

Wines as Good As the People Who Make Them In the world of wine—locally and abroad—KWV needs little introduction. It is one of South Africa’s leading wine and spirits pioneers, which has played a major role in shaping the local wine industry into one that is to be reckoned with. Since 1918, KWV has been steadfast in transforming itself into a commercial player, exporting award-winning wines and brandies from its main complex in Paarl, all over the world.

It is a well-respected wine brand to boot: as was the case in 2014, KWV was again the only South African wine brand to be voted onto Drinks International’s World’s Most Admired Wine Brands for 2015. It was also named Producer of the Year for the fifth consecutive year at the Veritas Wine Awards.

Having been in the game for as long as they have, KWV knows the importance of innovation. In a constantly evolving industry there is no room for stagnation, which is why this wine house is a hub of exciting initiatives, mainly focused on increasing wine quality year-on-year. With KWV already being home to what is possibly South Africa’s most awarded single wine range—the well-known KWV The Mentors—this is a goal which will reward the wine consumer greatly.

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The winemaker's selection Email. customer@kwv.co.za Tel. 021-807-3911 www.kwv.co.za

KWV The Mentors Chenin Blanc 2013 Intense flavours of honey blossom, peach and nougat supported by notes of lemon zest and citrus. The palate is complemented by pure fruit and raw almonds with a refined and lingering finish. Serve with tuna tataki.

KWV The Mentors Orchestra 2013 Aromas of dark plums, red cherries and pencil shavings with hints of violets and cigar box.

Well-developed tannins leave the palate juicy with sweet fruit that delivers a smooth finish.

Serve with peppered springbok loin.

KWV The Mentors Pinotage 2013 Strawberries, black cherries, plums, and hints of fruit cake and marzipan on the nose.

Sweet fruit and wellintegrated oak on the palate. Silky tannins contribute to the juicy, round and seamless finish. Serve with a Moroccan lamb tagine.

Give these wines a try. Call us on 086-111-WINE (9463) to order.

GOOD TASTE

A selection of highly-rated wines to try. Order them by calling the Wine Club on 086 111 WINE (9463)

Green apple

Biscotti

1. WATERFORD ELGIN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015

2. KLEINE ZALZE VINTAGE BRUT MCC 2010

Fresh granadilla and green apple fruit, with underlying chalk and slate notes. The palate is finely textured with soft fruit, tight acidity and a long finish. Drink now.

Pairs well with baked white fish.

Single bottle price R107.00

Delicate and elegant nose. Freshly baked brioche and biscotti aromas with a rich lees-creaminess and a tantalizing mineral richness. Drink now or keep for 5 years. Pairs well with smoked salmon.

Single bottle price R125.00

Berry

Butteriness

3. CLOS MALVERNE CABERNET/MERLOT 2013

4. CANTO CHARDONNAY MCC 2012

The herby, berry character of the Cab is apparent and complemented by the fruitiness of the Merlot.

To be enjoyed now, but can be aged for another 2-3 years.

Enjoy with a rib-eye steak.

Single bottle price R109.00

Violets

Intense

5. MULLINEUX SYRAH 2013

6. WATERKLOOF CIRLE OF LIFE WHITE 2012

Notes of spicy citrus rind, refined black fruit, violets and lilies. Elegant and restrained yet with plenty body and a silky texture. The finish is long with supple tannins. Drink within 3-5 years after bottling.

Serve with rare venison dishes.

Single bottle price R295.00

Intense, with great balance. A tight mineral core and creamy middle palate allows for great complexity and a persistent finish. Enjoy now, or keep for up to 6 years. Try with white meat or firm fish dishes.

Single bottle price R149.00

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Extra fine bubbles, beautiful mousse and richness in texture.

Wonderful yeastiness comes through on the nose and finishes with a slight butteriness. Drink now or by winter 2017. Perfect with oysters or salmon dishes.

Single bottle price R188.99

GOOD TASTE

Ripe pears

Citrus

7. MULLINEUX WHITE 2014

8. RIETVALLEI CLASSIC CHARDONNAY 2015

Ripe, green citrus fruit and Christmas spices. The palate is fairly full and richly textured, with notes of ripe pears, almonds and peaches. Drink within the first 3 years after bottling. Pair with pork belly.

Single bottle price R199.99

Ripe citrus with a touch of toasted oak. The palate is rich and creamy with a good balance between fruit, oak and acidity and finishes with a lingering aftertaste. Drink now.

Pair with grilled fish or chicken.

Single bottle price R87.99

Lemon & lime

Mint aromas

9. DOOLHOF LADY IN WHITE 2010

10. FISH HOEK MERLOT 2015 There is a mixture of dark red fruit, cigar box and mint aromas with wood—well balanced. Sweet, spicy undertones give this wine great depth. Enjoy now. Pair with ostrich fillet in red wine reduction on a wild mushroom risotto.

Single bottle price R42.99

Subtle elegant citrus with fresh lemon and lime to the fore. Soft, crisp lengthy finish with hints of oak. Drink now.

Enjoy with white fish, shellfish or a crisp garden salad.

Single bottle price R75.99

Black cherries

Apricot

11. LANZERAC CABERNET SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013

12. RADFORD DALE CHARDONNAY 2014

Black cherries, currants and berries, with hints of olive tapenade, dark chocolate and sundried tomato.

Soft, supple tannins. Drink now or mature for 5-8 years. Enjoy the wine with a succulent steak.

Single bottle price R149.00

Apricot and lemon aromas with intense, yet nuanced palate. A generous palate weight and perfect balance along with a buttery texture. Drink now. Can be enjoyed with a variety of dishes.

Single bottle price R198.00

Fruity

Vanilla

13. CONSTANTIA ROYALE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015

14. KEN FORRESTER FMC 2013

Crisp with a refreshing minerality, gently softened by light, fruity flavours. A lively and full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now.

Enjoy with your favourite dishes.

Single bottle price R95.99

Rich, layered with dried apricot, vanilla and honey. Drink now but will gain additional complexity with cellaring.

Enjoy with spiced dishes, even mild seafood/shellfish or curries.

Single bottle price R399.00

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GOOD TASTE

Lime blossom

Fresh & sweet

15. KEN FORRESTER ROUSSANNE 2013

16. THEUNISKRAAL BOUQUET BLANC 2015

Elegant, rich and restrained. Hints of lime blossom, soft on the palate with a gentle structure.

Will reward with good cellaring, up to 10 years. Perfect with smoked fish or chicken.

Single bottle price R239.00

Fresh and sweet with a complexity of fruit flavours and a lingering aftertaste.

Drink now. An ideal partner to traditional Cape desserts and also excellent on its own.

Single bottle price R42.95

Fruit salad

Melon

17. ROOIBERG CAPE WHITE COLOMBAR 2015

18. MEERKAT SUN ANGEL NV

Glowing golden-green colour, light fresh-honey and strong guava bouquet, as well as mouthfilling flavours of tropical fruit salad. Drink now. Eat with a spicy chicken or a pasta dish.

Single bottle price R49.99

A fusion of sun ripened fruits.

Aromas of melon and litchi are complemented by a luscious mouthfeel of granadilla and mango leaving you with a lingering taste of kiwi and pear drops. Drink now. Serve with bobotie.

Single bottle price R54.95

Plum & cherry

Blackcurrant

19. DARLINGTON MALBEC 2012

20. SAXENBURG PRIVATE COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006

Hints of ripe cherry. Palate is full of berry fruit with layers of ripe plum and cherry. Full mouthfeel with an inviting aftertaste.

Keep for 3-4 years. Pair with a hearty stew.

Single bottle price R52.99

Layers of ripe blackcurrant and cassis fruit with a ripe tannin finish. Serve up to 15 years from vintage. Best enjoyed with classic red meat dishes.

Single bottle price R275.00

Hazelnut

Co ee

21. SAXENBURG PRIVATE COLLECTION CHARDONNAY 2013

22. STELLEKAYA MERLOT 2010 Minty character and loads of blackcurrants, hints of coffee and dry fruits. Drink now or keep for up to 4-6 years. This wine pairs well with beef carpaccio, drizzled with homemade mayonnaise.

Single bottle price R94.95

A full and concentrated wine with lovely tropical fruit and hazelnut flavours. Drink up to 5 years from vintage. Best enjoyed with seafood and lighter meat dishes Single bottle price R129.99

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Good Taste Promotion

The world of Whisky & Beer

COLLIDE

Bread and Butter, Bacon and Eggs and Gin and Tonic... certain things in life just work better as a pair.

Now, hot on the heels of the popular craft beer and burgeoning craft spirit movement, the mavericks from Compass Box Whisky Company and Brewdog have boldly created a pairing of their products for you to add a new yin to your yang.

A NATURAL CONNECTION… Whisky, at a point in its production before being

with all the options on hand, the only way to work out

distilled, is essentially a simple beer – so given

what will tickle your taste buds is to start tasting! To

their shared humble origins, it seems only a natural

save you some time (and your liver!), we have happily

progression to start looking for similarities and

experimented on your behalf to come up with a few

complementary flavours within them. Just like in beer,

suggestions that you can try, but of course, feel free

whisky can offer a plethora of exciting aromas, styles

to continue to experiment to discover your very own

and characters to suit a variety of different palates and

perfect partnership!

THE ULTIMATE COLLABORATION!

Keep an eye out for the Paradox Compass Box from Brewdog With such shared passion, it only seemed logical to combine forces and create something that celebrated both great beer, as well as great whisky. Thus “The Paradox Compass Box” was born and is the latest of Brewdog’s whisky cask aged imperial stouts to be released. Aged in Compass Box Great King Street barrels for 221 days before bottling, watch out for this huge stout to be available in select specialist retail stores near you soon.

Compass Box Whisky available from Liquidity Tel: 021 905 9066 Brewdog products available from Beverage People Tel: 021 438 6900

Compass Box products are available at select top retail stores nationwide, but are also available through Wine-of-the-Month Club for direct delivery to your door. To place your order contact: Tel: 086 111 WINE(9463), Fax: 086 674 3966 or Email: orders@wineofthemonth.co.za.

C AR AM E L M

ALT

HOP BOMB & POPCORN

They do say that opposites attract—Libertine is a dark hop bomb combining the maltforward indulgences of a stout with the insatiable hopload of an IPA, whilst Hedonism reminds of sweet, voluptuous coconuts and lightly buttered popcorn.

Hardcore IPA & Compass Box Spice Tree Hardcore is braced by a backbone of caramel malt, matched perfectly by the rich Christmas cake flavours held within the Spice Tree.

BITTER Jackhammer Pale Ale – Compass Box Great King Street Glasgow Blend

They call it the Jackhammer as the thumping bitterness drills straight through your taste buds, and much like the fiery temperament of the Glaswegians, for which the Great King Street Glasgow Blend is a testament to, this bold combination is not for the faint of heart.

Libertine Black Ale & Compass Box Hedonism

Can a Psycho tame a Monster?

The Cocoa Psycho Imperial Stout borrows from the voluptuary decadence of 18th Century Russia, and its extravagantly smooth blend of crushed coffee beans, cacao nibs and dark malts manages to fight off the smoky bacon flavours found within the Peat Monster.

Cocoa Psycho Imperial Stout & Compass Box Peat Monster

Try these pairing suggestions from the distillery and brewery, but it’s all about trial and error and of course, personal taste. Feel free to experiment and discover some great new combinations!

COFFEE

BEER &

WHISKY & The trick here is to remember that the higher the

With hundreds of hops, yeasts, malts, and combinations,

alcohol in the whisky, the more it cuts through the

the possibilities for mouth-watering beer and cheese

richness of the cheese, cleansing the palate between

pairings are endless. Here are just a few beer and cheese

bites and complementing and enhancing both the

combos to try at home.

subtle and bold flavours within.

th Go big wi l B d l a bo eue chees

+ + + +

A large wedge of Camembert

Experiment with spiced hard cheeses

Classic mature Cheddar

Your pongiest Gorgonzola

Try a vinta ge Cheddar or a stinky Blue cheese

A hard cheese, like Romano

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.

Go for a more creamy cheese, or an aged Gouda

GOOD TASTE L A S T

R O U N D

Not everything in life is paid for with money D A V I D

B I G G S

O

urs was a typically conservative Karoo farming family until my spinster Aunt Rhona surprised us all at the age of 45 by marrying an eccentric Dane. Our new Uncle Niels turned many of our traditions upside down and brought an element of whacky fun into our lives. He drove a souped-up pink Ford Cortina, wore brightly coloured odd socks and smoked cheroots. He had a passion for fast cars and was a member of the Cape Racing Drivers’ Association.

After many years of happy marriage, Aunt Rhona died and Uncle Niels moved into a single room in a retirement village, where I visited him every Sunday afternoon for a beer and a chat. One of his rules was that I arrive armed with a subject for discussion. There were to be no long silences.

Time passed and Uncle Niels reached the age when he had to admit he was no longer a safe driver. He would have to give up his precious, pampered Opel Astra (slightly pimped) and rely on other drivers.

“Would you like to buy my car?” he asked gruffly one Sunday.

“It depends on the price,” I replied cautiously. Niels was known to be rather tight with his money.

“You can have it for a bottle of five-

year-old KWV brandy,” he said. “Not ten-year-old; I don’t like that.”

The following Sunday I arrived with the bottle, not knowing whether he had been serious. He handed over the car keys and registration papers solemnly. I handed over the bottle. Deal done.

At that time my partner Gail was driving a seriously clapped-out old Mazda, so I offered her the Opel for “The same price I paid for it.”

She hesitated and asked what I’d paid.

I told her and another bottle of five-yearold KWV changed hands. She loved the car. It was sturdy, reliable and safe, and reasonably economical.

Time passed and tragedy struck. My lovely Gail was diagnosed with cancer and after a long battle the disease won.

During the fight we learned who our true friends were. Many members of the M AY

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wine industry offered financial support, friends spent time providing meals and comfort, some sat at the bedside for hours and days but the battle was finally lost and she passed away one midnight.

One good friend who had been particularly supportive was a single mother who was struggling to get her daughter to school and back each day in a seriously unreliable old car. From time to time she had borrowed the Astra when her car broke down yet again. She loved it.

“Would you like to buy Gail’s car?” I asked.

“That depends on the price,” she said.

“You can have it for what I paid,” I said.

She looked dubious. “I’ll see what I can get for my old crock,” she muttered.

“That should pay for some of it. Can I owe you the rest?”

I agreed and she managed to get rid of her wreck. “How much more will I have to pay?” she said.

I told her what I had paid, and a few hours later she arrived with a bottle of five-year-old and a big smile.

I hope that one day when she is rich and famous (she’s a writer) she can afford to sell that car to somebody who needs it. And I hope the price remains the same. One bottle of five-year-old. GT

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX LATIMER

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