HANDICRAFTS LINE OF NATIVE COTTON FABRIC
Abstract The native cotton (Gossypium barbadense) is a fiber of natural colors, the use of which dates back some 5000 years old, which has been documented in the findings in Sacred Citadel of Caral, considered the center of the oldest civilization America, located in the district of Supe, Barranca province of Lima. Lambayeque is the most important native cotton producing region in Peru. In our country today fiber for the manufacture of traditional fabrics and practice of folk medicine in infection control is used. It is worth mentioning that despite efforts to exterminate their culture, the native indigenous cotton and it continues to flourish because of the significant existing textile craft tradition, especially in rural communities that grow where women artisans skilled in the tissue, transform it into various products, becoming therefore an important source of income. Introduction The handicrafts on native cotton is one of the most representative craft lines in the Lambayeque region due to the uniqueness of the cotton, which is unique and it has natural colors. The crafts are made by housewives from rural district Morrope, who in addition to farm mainly take this activity as a complementary activity, which generates additional income, which can help in sustaining their homes. These crafts from native cotton are characterized by being made with ancient techniques from seed of the plant to the final product. The garments produced by artisans are made by hand, this gives an additional value to their products; However despite all the benefits that can have native cotton handicrafts perform them is not really profitable for craft activity. The research we have done which is intended to demonstrate the influence of native cotton crafts in sustainable development of the artisans of the village of Arbolsol in the district of M贸rrope ; influence not only in the economic but also social and environmental .
Native Crafts Cotton in Peru and Lambayeque Native cotton has been eradicated over time; in the twentieth century, foreign observers often assumed that species naturally pigmented cotton used by indigenous cultures were extinct. Funds of valuable genes natural color cotton in Peru were severely worn during the past half century due mainly to the introduction of commercial varieties of white cotton governmental policies aimed at eradicating native cotton. (Caritas of Peru 2010) Brack (2004 ) mentions that its history and its shades of colors in the Andes began thousands of years ago and sure enough colored cottons are known in the West, has its origin in preColumbian indigenous peoples of South America. The Peruvian native cotton unlike other species of commercial cotton has natural colors, feature that makes it very popular in the international market, this species is native to the northern coast of Peru, the tissues that occur in this fiber were considered symbol elite by pre -Inca cultures, currently textile innovation allows couture clothing in great demand in the market are developed. (Ministry of Agriculture, S.F) Crafts and handicrafts, as part of local traditions, is one of the cultural expressions that more directly linked to the tourism industry. The quality that the artisanal product to synthesize the symbolic values of a culture would make it one of the expressions most popular among visitors. (BenĂtez 2008) The craft has a dynamic analyzed covering the cycles of creation - production, circulation and consumption is linked to other critical current social phenomena such as the problems of depletion of natural resources and environmental crisis; the impersonation of manual labor by industry, associated with migrations from the countryside to the city, regarding 3 market fluctuations, particularly in its relationship with the tourism industry, among others. (BenĂtez 2008) Crafts and handicrafts, as part of local traditions, is one of the cultural expressions that more directly linked to the tourism industry. The quality that the artisanal product to synthesize the symbolic values of a culture would make it one of the expressions most popular among visitors.
To date artisans promote their tissue -based products native cotton , showing the process of developing tissues showing new designs that are learned in the training workshops offered by the Olmos project and regional management of foreign trade and Tourism ( CITE SIPAN 2010).
The traditional crafts of native cotton in Lambayeque In Lambayeque was found evidence of ancient native cotton cultivation. This is confirmed by the findings in the tomb of the Lord of Sipan. According to archaeologist Walter Alva which shows that the native cotton was used since the time of the Moche culture, dating from the years 200 and 700 d. C. The native cotton fabric is an activity that has passed from generation to generation, from mother to daughter, being a domestic activity type done mostly by women. The artisans planted and even sow their own cotton in their gardens or on their farms, has been so ever since. Previously cotton was planted in order to produce garments for everyday use, such as girdles or saddlebags are kind of bags used to collect agricultural products. The tradition is maintained not only in this sense but also in how to prepare cotton fiber and then are converted into yarn and then usually be woven belt is a very old and hard to make art. Of course artisans also use more contemporary techniques such as crochet and chopsticks, which are a kind of needles that joins together the threads. Years ago, in rural areas, young women should stay at home to do housework, which also meant learning to knit the native cotton; with the passage of time these young people have chosen to engage in other activities such as studying a sprint or perhaps simply migrate to a city and set aside the tissue; that is why this activity stopped being transmitted from mother to daughter, now young people living in rural areas of the district M贸rrope not know weave native cotton. While it is an activity that has managed to stay in time, it is likely that with the passage of the same is being lost because every time there will be fewer artisans to produce them.
Materials and methods The present research is descriptive as precise detail the relevant features that native cotton crafts to influence the sustainable development of the artisans of Arbolsol. The quantitative method was employed, using two variables (crafts and sustainable development) to be measured without any influence or handling any further because the information is taken into a single moment of the study. A questionnaire of 26 questions was applied with a Likert scale at 15 artisans from the village of Arbolsol for information on techniques, designs and finishes used in their tissues besides investigating how to sell their products, as they are organized, etc. Regarding the sample, we used a non-probability convenience sampling. Baptista (2010) argues that non-probability samples of convenience, choice of elements does not depend on chance, but related to the characteristics of the investigation or who makes the sample causes. For processing the survey data Microsoft Excel 2013 program which allows organizing all the information collected, and get graphs indicate in full the results, to proceed to analyze each of them is used.
Data analysis All data obtained from research through surveys, we could make the following analysis on the influence of crafts in sustainable development in the village of artisans Arbolsol.
Table 01 Quality level obtained in technical design and finishes native cotton fabric by the artisans of the village of Arbolsol, 2014
ITEMS
N
S
A
The artisans of the village of Arbolsol perform their tissue quality in technical, design and finish.
16
113
51
Source: Own elaboration Analysis: It is determined that the artisans get low quality scores in their final products; accordingly is identified not have established processes to ensure they produce quality products.
Maldonado (2013 ) states that there is a need to improve the quality of the handmade product , while we review and study those aspects that are considered important to increase the quality of handcrafted objects ; increase and improvement among with other aspects will allow open other markets craftsman. If the artisans of Arbolsol increase the quality of their products, then they can access international markets. Table 02 Degree of sustainability in cotton native artisans village of Arbolsol, 2014
ITEMS
N
S
A
The artisans of the village of Arbolsol generate 64 sustainability through the craft
28
108
Source: Own elaboration
Analysis: It is determined that the artisans have a sustainability index greater than 50% ; accordingly it is identified that generate development in the socioeconomic, institutional and political , productive and technological fields ; but mainly generate ecological development in their community. ONU (2003) states that sustainability is meeting current needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs, ensuring a balance between economic growth, environmental protection and social welfare. If the artisans generate sustainable development, then keep balance between economic growth (craft as complementary activity to agriculture); environmental care (care of the soil, water, etc.); social welfare (government support for basic services, development of social projects, training in the craft, etc.)
DISCUSSION To maintain variety in the production of handicrafts native cotton fabric, craft must use both existing indigenous techniques and modern techniques that allow them to develop diversity of textures and designs in their tissues. The craft must end its products with much more elaborate finishes due to the demand for quality in demand today. All handmade product of native cotton fabric made for marketing should be varied and attractive designs to catch the attention of consumers. (See Figure 01) The level of economic sustainability that have the artisans of the village Arbolsol minimum due to the lack of plans and improvement projects for the craft ; social sustainability is an intermediate level , since there are associations of artisans , but still need advice and companies that support the development of clusters ; sustainability that can be observed is most ecological because it maintains harmony with the environment from planting to final product , the whole process is performed friendly to the environment. (See Figure 02)
CONCLUSIONS The native cotton fabric beyond being an artisan line is a link to our cultural identity because it allows the expression of people's creativity and Peruvian identity. The artisans of cotton fabric in native Arbolsol have skills in the art of weaving ancient techniques; however, it is necessary to train them in techniques, designs and modern finishes, to gain access to a competitive market. The native cotton is unique in the world, both in texture and color, and can generate returns to farmers and artisans. RECOMMENDATIONS We must protect the folk arts and crafts, since their products are exponents of cultural value and source of income for artisans. The protection should aim to conserve artistic authenticity and production enhancement. We should promote national agencies with sufficient technical, financial and administrative autonomy for the protection and development of handicrafts.
THANKS
We thank the Mg. Liliana Mairena Fox for guiding us and contribute their knowledge to the proper development of this project. We also thank the Mgtr. JosĂŠ David Sanchez Medina, for encourage us to develop our capabilities in a language that is basic to the development of our profession.
REFERENCES
Caritas of Peru (2010). Native cotton www.caritas.org.pe/documentos/algodon.pdf
fiber
quality
for
the
industry
[Online]
Brack, A. (2004)The Peruvian Cotton. Lima, Peru: Santillana Ministry of Agriculture (2011) cultivation of native colored cotton in florida view Lambayeque [Online] http://es.scribd.com/doc/55234545/ALGODON-NATIVO Benitez, S. (2008) Journal of Culture: The Latin American crafts as a development, economic, social and cultural : the light of the new concepts of development culture , 10, 14 -15 . CITE Sipan. (2010) Hand- woven Cotton Line Native (2nd edition). Lambayeque Peru: Ecoprensa Editors. .