how it is made

Time required to dye using myrobalan = 30 mins or more depending on the desired shade

FeSO4 required = 2% - 5% WOF = 5/100(X)

Water required for FeSO4 solution = 2:1 (2 parts water to one part iron)

Observations:

• Plants with tannin leave their own colour when used as barriers. • Old iron blankets (old fabrics which has gone through many wash cycles) release more iron making the area covered darker compared to newer iron blankets

Precautions:

• Since plastic is used as the barrier make sure there is enough water in the steamer otherwise the heat could melt the plastic and fabric could get spoiled. • While handeling FeSO4 or any other chemical use golves. Rememeber to take them off during the steaming process. • If not used in lower concentration iron can degrade the fabric • Do not soak the plant materials used in this process in iron solution.

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Scoured fabric dyed with myrobalan Laying Plant materials Laying Iron blankets Folding the fabric

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Rolling and Tying Steaming Ș

Wash, rinse and iron

Sampling and experiments

BUNDLE DYE SAMPLES:

Fig 32: Butterfly pea, madder on neem silk Mordant - alum

Fig 34: Cosmos, Buuterfly pea, Iron water on sappan silk Mordant - alum Fig 33: Butterfly pea, marigold, anatto on tulsi silk Mordant - alum

Fig 35: Butterfly pea, Cosmos on white cotton Mordant - alum

RESIST ECO-PRINT SAMPLES:

Fig 36: Tannin blankets with wild plants used as barriers

Fig 37: Iron blankets with wild plants used as barriers Fig 38: Guava leaf imprint on tulsi cotton Fig 39: Eucalyptus leaf imprint on organza

Fig 40: Guava leaf and cosmos imprint on sappan silk Fig 41: Tulsi seed imprint on neem silk

Finalised swatches

Shown are the finalised swatched we have selected from the lot and tried to replicate for the final collection.

I have incorporated all the three techniques with some ayur vastra for the final products making sure they go hand in hand.

Fig 44: Ecucalyptus eco printed 4ply organza Fig 45: Resist eco printed 4ply organza, Eco printed organza with iron

Fig 46: Bundle dyed cotton with sappan, marigold, rose petals and butterfly pea Fig 47: Bundle dyed cotton with marigold and butterfly pea with silhouette embroidery

Colour board