GRAM Magazine: April 2014 // Edition 38

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GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE

ISSUE 38

FREE

PLEASE TAKE ME HOME


Constable Gainsborough Millais Reynolds Sargent Turner Waterhouse

Tickets: 03 5434 6100 Packages: 1800 813 153

Exhibition organised by Bendigo Art Gallery and the Royal Academy of Arts, London Frank Cadogan Cowper, Vanity (detail), 1907, oil on panel. Š Royal Academy of Arts, London. Photographer John Hammond.

Higher education partner


What a magnificent March we have had. The

ON THE COVER:

weather has been ney on perfect, the food and

Spices not only just excite your

drink plentiful and we even had a public holiday

taste buds but also contain an

thrown in for good measure. Congratulations and

impressive list of plant-derived

much kudos goes out to the Melbourne Food

chemical compounds that are

and Wine festival organisers for a splendid event.

known to have disease preventing and health promoting properties.

April sees comedy galore in our fair city, Easter celebrations and

They have been in use since

ANZAC commemorations.

ancient times for their anti-

This month, GRAM features an array of pieces. From the newly

inflammatory, and carminative

opened Nieuw Amsterdam, to the semi-permanent, Place Holder.

properties. Spices have been a

Jafflechutes make an appearance, as do regional Victoria’s Annie

part of our food for centuries, and

Smithers and Harry’s Mussels. Burgers are still on everyone’s mind

are now an integral part of our life,

with Burger Royale and their perfect pickles and the team at

thanks to the European explorers,

Tucker talk to head cheesmonger Laura Lown, from Milk the Cow.

whose contributions in spreading them from their place of origin

We hope you will enjoy the latest edition of GRAM.

greatly help spices popular all over

Jess Hourigan, Editor

the world!

INSIDE APRIL GRAM

4. 4. NIEUW AMSTERDAM

8. PLACE HOLDER

12. MILK THE COW

16. ANNIE SMITHERS

I’M SO HUNGREE

ESPRESSO MELBOURNE

TUCKER

GASTROLOGY

4.

4. 20. JAFFLECHUTES

26. ROYALE BROTHERS

WE HEART

PEACH WATER

4. 28. GETTING TO KNOW MUSSELS APPLES UNDER MY BED

REGULARS: 18. WE LOVE

19. WHAT’S NEW AND WHAT’S ON

4.

30. WINE REVIEWS

30. WINE REVIEWS LA DONNA DEL VINO

32. WHAT’S HOT.

34. DISTRIBUTORS

FEATURES: 24. MELBOURNE’S ROOFTOPS

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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

Editor: Jess Hourigan Email: jess@grammagazine.com.au Advertising sales Email: advertising@grammagazine.com.au Phone: 0407 506 179 Art and Design: Jess Hourigan

Head office Rothesay Media Pty Ltd 268 McKenzie Street Golden Square VIC 3555 info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au

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WANT YOUR BLOG TO BE FEATURED IN GRAM? SEND A LINK OF YOUR FOOD OR DRINK BLOG TO jess@grammagazine.com.au


NEW AMERICAN: NEW YORK INSPIRED SPACE


NIEUW AMSTERDAM 106–112 Hardware St, Melbourne. Ph: 9602 2111 Words and photos by I’m So Hungree.

ABOUT I’M SO HUNGREE I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and the world!). I love good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences. I hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoy sharing!

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

WWW.IMSOHUNGREE.BLOGSPOT.COM TWITTER: @IMSOHUNGREE | FACEBOOK: IMSOHUNGREE

If I’m about to head off for a trip for a while, and Brad is not coming with me,

to baffle me. However Nieuw Amsterdam’s take on this classic, with pate

I always use it as an excuse to schedule in a few extra meals together…as I’m

and terrine stacked on mini waffles, and finished off with a sliver of crispy

kind of saving him money since I won’t be around…right?

chicken skin and a drop of orange caramel, is not to be missed

Before this next trip, I insisted he come meet me after work one night to

I’ve always been a sucker for chicken pate, and here they have taken this

check out Nieuw Amsterdam.

love to a new level with a play on texture and the richness in flavour. The real highlights for me, were the tiny piece of chicken skin at the top, that audibly

This New York inspired space, which had taken over an old Irish pub and

crunched amongst the softness in the mouth, and the orange caramel,

given it a fresh and slick new face, is spread out over two levels. We opted

unexpected, but so delightful.

to sit upstairs, where the light was bright and inviting with lots of art deco hints in the decor. As we deliberated the menu, which defines itself as ‘New American’, with its roots in American culture and taking flavours and inspirations from the immigrant population, we nibbled on a small log of house made New York sourdough. The sourdough is cooked in a combi oven, which introduces

WITH THE ICE-CREAM JUST AT THE PRECIPICE BETWEEN HOLDING ITS SHAPE AND MELTING, IT WAS PERFECT WITH THE SMOOTH CHOCOLATE BAR THAT PUT UP NO RESISTANCE OR TENSION AGAINST MY SPOON AS I SCOOPED SOME UP.

steam and humidity to the process, resulting in a tanned and crunchy outside that contrasts nicely with the soft inside. There’s a delightful butteriness in

Grits fritters with a variety of sweetcorn and heirloom beetroots is pure

this dense bread,that leaves the fingers mildly oily.

comfort. The grits reminding me of gnocchi, with their round shape and fluffy and light texture. The flavours on a whole made me think of Mexico,

The concept of chicken and waffles, ever popular in the states, continues

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

corn, bright flavours and all that cheese. Mmhmm!

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GRITS FRITTERS: PURE COMFORT

CHICKEN AND WAFFLES: NIEUW AMSTERDAM’S TAKE ON THIS CLASSIC, NOT TO BE MISSED

these were delicious. I tend to usually opt for skinny and crunchy, but I was

GRITS FRITTERS WITH A VARIETY OF SWEETCORN AND HEIRLOOM BEETROOTS IS PURE COMFORT.

definitely wooed over with these generously cut, finger thick fries with a

I’ve been impressed with some of the newcomers onto the Melbourne dining

nice dark colour.

scene since the start of the year. Nieuw Amsterdam fills in a nice little space

On the side, I couldn’t resist a serve of Dutch potato fries with spiced garlic mayo. I’m not entirely sure what makes these Dutch, but I know that

where they’re dishing up amazing food, with some of the friendliest service, Our last savoury was the Southern style pork belly chops, completed with

at prices that really don’t hurt the pocket much that you might also be able

sauerkraut, apple sauce and crackling. Who can ever really dislike crackling?

to indulge in late into the night.

Certainly not I, as I dived in and happily snap, crackle, crunched my way through the lot!

So why are you still here? Hurry up and go get some (slightly schmancy) chicken and waffles in you!

I’VE ALWAYS BEEN A SUCKER FOR CHICKEN PATE, AND HERE THEY HAVE TAKEN THIS LOVE TO A NEW LEVEL WITH A PLAY ON TEXTURE AND THE RICHNESS IN FLAVOUR.

ADDRESS: 106-112 Hardware Street, Melbourne

Even before our dishes were cleared, I put in my dessert order, and quite

PH: 9602 2111

promptly, I found the Nieuw chocolate bar, with banana and tonka bean

HOURS: Mon - Thurs 12pm - 3am / Fri - Sat 12pm - 5am / Sun 12pm - 3am

ice-cream placed in front of me. With the ice-cream just at the precipice

WEBSITE: www.nieuwamsterdam.com.au

between holding its shape and melting, it was perfect with the smooth

TWITTER: @NieuwAmsterdam_

chocolate bar that put up no resistance or tension against my spoon as I

FACEBOOK: nieuwamsterdam

scooped some up.

COFFEE: Lavazza

6

NIEUW AMSTERDAM CUISINE: American, Barbecue

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU


Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion

WWW.CHEFSHAT.COM.AU


PRINCIPLES OF SIMPLICITY: LIGHT TIMBER AND BURSTS OF GREENERY 8

CENTRAL FOCAL POINT: DINING ROOM AND BAR AT EITHER END OF THE KITCHEN


PLACE HOLDER 9 Smith Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9650 3155 Words by Lola Golightly photos by Guy Lavoipierre.

ABOUT LOLA GOLIGHTLY Is a glamourise, but slightly enigmatic Melbourne writer with a penchant for good coffee. SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

ABOUT GUY LAVOIPIERRE Melbourne based food photographer specialising in lifestyle and food

WWW.ESPRESSOMELBOURNE.COM TWITTER: @ESPRESSOMELB | FACEBOOK: ESPRESSOMELBOURNE

The pair serves exceptional coffee with a cross-section-of-Melbourne

Place Holder kindly opened so close to the front door of my workplace

bean selection: Seven Seeds and Small Batch for espresso, Proud Mary for fi lter and “whatever else is tasting good” Sam tells me (this could 2014

coffee machine, with the added benefits of a cake cabinet and the fact 1864 50

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that someone else makes my coffee and it doesn’t taste like bong water. So it follows that I’m there around 1000 times a week.

mean Everyday Coffee, Market Lane or Top Paddock thrown in the mix). R

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that it’s pretty much the same distance from my desk as the kitchenette’s

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You’d expect nothing less from boys known citywide not only for their 14 864 - 20 F RESH FROM 1

skills and knowledge but for their winning banter and service. Owners Sam and Sonam assembled the space themselves, adhering to

BRATIN

Sam is Seven Seeds alumni, recognisable to those who frequented

few pockets of stools turn out to be all you need to create a beautiful1864

De 2014 Clieu, Patricia and most recently, Top Paddock. Sonam’s clocked several years with the vintage Three Bags Full/Two Birds One Stone/ R S

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looking nook in which to read the paper.

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design principles of simplicity. Light timber, bursts of greenery and a ELE

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EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE: CROSS SECTION OF MELBOURNE BEAN SELECTION

FOOD OFFERINGS HAVE EVOLVED: PASTRIES BY RUSTICA SOURDOUGH 10

PLACE HOLDER: A SEMI-PERMANENT PRESENCE


LIFE COLLECTION

European Style Cream Handle Knife Top Paddock crew (in and around locking down his architecture degree). Their partnership is a no-brainer: I’m no mathematician

Robert Gordon

Yuki

DIPPED TERRACOTTA COLLECTION

La tavola

Robert Gordon

but legend + legend is a winning formula. Place Holder is a semi-permanent presence, carved into the base of forthcoming real estate development, Neometro’s Number Nine Smith Street. The café looks into a display home set-up, which I like to imagine is my living room and that Place Holder is my butlertended kitchen. Artist-run gallery Slopes nests at the back of the building and a community garden by 3000 Acres launched with a ceremonious cracking of coconuts in mid-February. The garden – previously an unused car park – is dotted with twenty-two recycled vinegar vats reborn as garden plots. Place Holder’s pair of plots supplies fresh herbs for teas and edible flowers. Another plot owned by Hamish and Andy, I can only assume, grows organic hilarity.

a passion to inspire.... Cedar Hospitality is the industries choice for quality products, innovative ideas and foodservice concepts. Our 2000sqm showroom is fully equipped and our friendly sales team is happy to help with all your requirements.

Food offerings have evolved since Place Holder’s doors opened a month back. Silo by Joost provide granola and the occasional

Jason Rodwell

rice pudding, hearty-looking sandwiches and a stunning selection of pastries are by Brunswick Street’s Rustica Sourdough, and cakes and assorted sweet treats are by NORA and Top Paddock (the cookie with M&Ms, a pretzel and a potato chip melded into its surface deserves special mention, as do the activated-charcoal tarts). Open seven days (a godsend at this end of Smith Street where Mondays are hospitality’s Sabbath), Sonam and Sam are holding a place for you, brew at the ready (feel free to drop one by my desk: I take it black, no sugar, pretzel cookie on the side). PLACE HOLDER CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee, Cake ADDRESS: 9 Smith Street, Fitzroy HOURS: Mon - Fri 7am - 4pm / Sat - Sun 8am - 4pm WEBSITE: www.placeholdersmithstreet.com TWITTER: @Placeholdermelb FACEBOOK: placeholdermelb COFFEE: Seven Seeds, Small Batch, Proud Mary, Everyday Coffee, Market Lane and Top Paddock.

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

Cedar is a lolly shop for me, I always find the majority of my requirements, and if they don’t have it they will find it for me. The Showroom is always tastefully decked out with new plates, glasses and serving wear, and stocks a great range of quality kitchen basics at a competitive price point. That’s why Cedar is My Hospitality Store

Jason Rodwell Head Chef

ALBERT ST FOOD & WINE

382 Sydney Rd, Brunswick VIC 3056 (03) 8354 6600

cedarhospitality.com

223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com

11


LAURA LOWN: HEAD CHEESEMONGER

MILK THE COW: OVER ONE HUNDRED SEASONAL, RARE AND SPECIALTY CHEESES


AN INTERVIEW: MILK THE COW 1/157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda Ph: 9537 2225 Words by Tucker. Photos by Emily Bartlett

ABOUT TUCKER Crafted by some of the most exciting and intelligent young writers, photographers and cooks in Australia and beyond, Tucker combines an array of recipes, technical how-to’s, and features on cooks, food culture and cooking and eating at home.

WWW.HEYTUCKER.COM

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

TWITTER: @HEY_TUCKER | INSTAGRAM: HEYTUCKER WWW.EMILYBARTLETTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

It’s early on a Wednesday morning and St Kilda is just starting to wake up.

OK, let’s talk cheese. What cheese would I find in your fridge at the moment?

On approaching 157 Fitzroy Street we are greeted by a young, smiling woman. Her checkered shirt is buttoned all the way to the top, her hair is

Right now I have a great selection of Sartori cheeses from the USA, which

tightly tied up and she is sporting a very sharp black blazer. “Hi, I’m Laura,

were sent to me to sample (it’s a hard life but someone has to do it) they

the head cheesemonger here at Milk the Cow”. Young, bubbly and uber

consist of cheeses rubbed in all sorts of things like, balsamic vinegar, chai

trendy, she wasn’t who we were expecting, but then again, perhaps it was

and Merlot.

wrong of us to assume anything given Milk the Cow’s growing reputation as one of Melbourne’s most innovative and modern specialty cheese shops.

Which cheeses are Melbournians going nuts for?

Did you always dream you would be a twenty-something cheese monger?

Firstly, we stock over one hundred seasonal, rare and specialty cheeses from all over the world and we love to match it with booze in a way that

Haha, not quite. I was one of those people who thought of cheese as

compliments and celebrates our cheeses. We flavour match anything from

something my dad would eat, that blue smelly stuff… I wouldn’t even go

our coffee to our cocktails and it is probably our passionate team and their

to Pizza Hut for the dislike of it. It wasn’t until I moved to London as a

attention to detail that distinguishes us.

struggling student and took a job behind a cheese counter that I fell in love. I worked at various fromageries for seven years before someone saw my

Where do you source your cheeses?

cheesy potential and put me through a specialist course. All over the globe, our range stems from the UK, France, Italy, Norway, USA, Wow, so you have a qualification in cheese? Yes.

Switzerland, Ireland, Spain and Australia and many more. We really trying

Is there a certificate? Yes.

to open up the doors into the variety of cheeses that are not typically that

Can I see it? Absolutely not.

accessible here in Australia.

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EXPERT MATCHING: BALANCING TEXTURES AND FLAVOURS

What should we be thinking about when making a cheeseboard? Definitely balancing textures and flavours, mixing tradition with more climate appropriate cheeses and a bit of forethought with regards to the drinks you might like to serve alongside.

SOURCED FROM AROUND THE WORLD: NOT TYPICALLY THAT ACCESSIBLE HERE IN AUSTRALIA

WE STOCK OVER ONE HUNDRED SEASONAL, RARE AND SPECIALTY CHEESES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD AND WE LOVE TO MATCH IT WITH BOOZE IN A WAY THAT COMPLIMENTS AND CELEBRATES OUR CHEESES.

Laura Lown’s Cheese board

Laura’s tips to respect your cheese…by choosing the right drink!

1. Something borrowed, something blue: a very traditional cheese has to be

Beer: Firm aged cheeses like Goudas. Match a Reypenaer XO (a three year

Stilton. I would choose a Colston Bassett Stilton.

old Gouda from the Netherlands) with a Palm, Belgium Amber Ale. The malty sweet, lightly bitter ale pairs wonderfully with the rich caramel and

2. I would pair the Stilton with a light and elegant Brillat Savarin. A triple

butterscotch character of the Gouda.

cream interior, soft fluffy white coating and a balance of both rich and light. Sparkling: The light and creamy Brillat Savarin is the most decadent match 3. To finish the board we need some texture and some bite. A Reypenaer

for the French sparkling Monmousseau Brut Etoile. The sparkling has

VSOP fits perfectly for our warmer weather. This Dutch cheese is sharp and

a refined finesse about it with flavours of fig, apple and pear and pairs

tangy with faint fruit sweetness.

beautifully with a luxurious triple cream cheese.

14


ADDRESS: 1/157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda PH: 9537 2225

HOURS: Tues - Thurs 12pm - late / Fri - Sat 12pm - 1am / Sun 12pm - 11pm. Mon Closed.

MILK THE COW

Gin: Choose a great quality gin like Gin Mare from the Mediterranean and

WEBSITE: www.milkthecow.com.au pair it with a Fleur du Maquis. This is a cracking combination, the gin has

TWITTER: @MilktheCowMelb been distilled with olives, rosemary, thyme and basil and the cheese from

FACEBOOK: milkthecowstkilda Corsica has an aromatic coating of rosemary, fennel seeds, juniper berries

COFFEE: Naked Espresso

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CUISINE: Cheese, Wine Bar, Coffee

WE FLAVOUR MATCH ANYTHING FROM OUR COFFEE TO OUR COCKTAILS AND IT IS PROBABLY OUR PASSIONATE TEAM AND THEIR ATTENTION TO DETAIL THAT DISTINGUISHES US.

and the occasional bird’s eye chilli. The sweetness of the cheese works

wonders with the light citrus notes in a well-made gin and tonic


SASHIMI OMAKASE: QUALITY AND QUANTITY

BEAUTIFULLY COOKED: PERFECTLY SEARED ON THE OUTSIDE

16

ICONIC: BRILLIANT MODERN TWIST

ANNIE SMITHERS BISTROT: TAKEN-OVER BY PASSIONATE TIM AND MICHELLE FOSTER


ANNIE SMITHERS BISTROT AND PRODUCE 72 Piper Street, Kyneton. Ph: 5422 2039 Words and photos by Gastrology.

ABOUT GASTROLOGY Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food and other deliciously related

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things. They travel around Melbourne and sometimes beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way and reporting back to their readers.

WWW.GASTRO-LOGY.BLOGSPOT.COM.AU

Iconic Annie Smithers Bistrot was recently taken-over by passionate

The slices of duck breast were cooked to a rarely found perfection

Tim and Michelle Foster, bringing about a brilliant modern twist to the

with the subtle smokiness allowing the rich flavour of the duck to

menu whilst retaining the métier and the spirit of the bistro, in one of

shine through. The accompanying confit leg was tender, the skin crisp.

Piper Street’s most beautiful spaces.

The sweet and sticky cherry jus provided the crowning element to a luxurious dish.

Under Tim’s guidance, the kitchen offers high-quality cuisine in a relaxed setting. The highlight of the cuisine served is seemingly simple

Consistent with our savoury courses, the desserts that followed were

but carefully prepared dishes; the fruit of Tim and Michelle’s expansive

superbly executed, well balanced and fresh.

experience in the world of hospitality. The rich chocolate delice was, as its name suggests, decadently rich. Tim was most recently the Executive Chef at Healesville Hotel Group,

The lavender honeycomb added a lovely textural element.

and prior to that was Head Chef at Hollicks Winery Coonawarra. Whilst his wife Michelle is a qualified Chef, she now works as the front of house

The lemon verbena poached yellow peaches exhibited a vibrant

Manager.

combination of flavours.

The dining room combines an atmosphere that is warm, welcoming,

The panna cotta was smooth and well crafted, the rhubarb was cooked

modern yet rustic and relaxed.

to perfection. The sorbet had a bold fresh strawberry flavour and the

From the kitchen flows a careful

selection of healthy, seasonal gourmet cuisine in the traditional bistro

melt-in-your-mouth texture of the shortbread accompanied perfectly.

style. Of particular note is that despite the complexity of the dishes crafted What we experienced was sensational. The menu is based on two

by Tim Foster, each element on every plate was cohesive and necessary,

central elements: top-quality ingredients from local producers and a

and when eaten together were stunning.

strong European influence. This enables the bistro to offer its guests the best meats, fish, vegetables and fruit available in Victoria.

Under Tim and Michelle, Annie Smithers brings traditional, classic dishes bang up to date using local and seasonal produce. The reputation of

Our favourite entree, the tortellini was exceptional. The filling of

Annie Smithers appears to be in safe hands.

deliciously savoury and melt in your mouth cauliflower was encased in al dente pasta. The accompanying roast cauliflower, raisins, pickled

ANNIE SMITHERS BISTROT AND PRODUCE

walnuts and stunning brown butter sauce made this a perfectly

CUISINE: French, International

executed, expertly balanced and intelligent dish.

ADDRESS: 72 Piper St, Kyneton PH: 5422 2039

The steak was beautifully cooked and arrived cooked medium as

HOURS: Thu - Sun 12pm - 4pm / 6pm - 11pm

requested. Perfectly seared on the outside and beautifully juicy and

WEBSITE: www.anniesmithers.com.au

pink on the inside. It was evident that the meat was sourced from a

TWITTER: @ANNIES_BISTROT

quality producer and great care had been taken in its preparation.

FACEBOOK: ANNIESBISTROT

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17


Stuff

ADVETISING FEATURE

WE LOVE A LOT

TASTE OF THE SOUTH AND SOUL IN ST KILDA The deep south of the US is synonymous with flavour. Think chilli and lime, gumbo from the heart of Louisiana and dark and smokey Texas style BBQ ribs. If right now you’re wishing you’d ordered the southern fried chicken instead of that quinoa and pomegranate salad, then the Tastes of the South weekend festival is where you need to be. From March 29 to 30, Joe’s Bar and Dining Hall is hosting a festival of food that will journey across 12 of the Southern States of America. Part owner of Joe’s Bar and renowned chef, Andrew Blake says he fell in love with Southern flavours after travelling the South-­West on a search for the holy grail of ribs. He says “Melbourne is slowly acquainting itself with the traditions of Southern style food and we’re excited to be driving the trend.” A weekend of food, drink and Southern US culture wouldn’t be complete without a chilli-­eating contest. From 4pm on Sunday March 30 you can show the world what your taste buds are made of. Entry is via Facebook. Go on, we dare you! Head to WWW.JOESBAR.COM.AU for more details.

EVER DREAMED OF HAVING A STALL AT SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET? South Melbourne Market is seeking submissions from individuals or companies to license a number of shops (stalls) in the Food Hall. If you are an experienced food specialist, this is your chance to own and operate a business within Melbourne’s oldest running and most dynamic Market. There are also a number of other non-food stall opportunities available at the moment. All information and Expression of Interest (EOI) documents and details of how to register are available at: WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU

PRANA CHAI The Chai - Prana Chai was born after our four-year-traveling-around-the-globe. Returning to Melbourne with a simple idea: To do the best chai. Just like what we fell in love in south Asia and Nepal. We perfected the recipe in our St Kilda Café over the years and customers grew to know and love our chai. A Simple Philosophy - We are chai drinkers, not salesman. Our aim is to share the Prana that comes from chai and to help promote a calm frame of mind through our tea ceremony. We work hard and put a lot of effort into making an honest product that people can enjoy both in their homes and in their favorite café. The Natural Process - Our process is beautiful in its simplicity. We source fresh, whole spices from many parts of the world. We crack open and blend these spices with high quality black Ceylon tea, fresh ginger and Australian bush land honey that comes from highlands, all by hand. All the ingredients are natural. We do not use machines, additives or preservatives to ensure the Prana (life force) in our product stays intact. WWW.PRANACHAI.COM

OUT OF THE RESTAURANT. NOT OUT OF THE LOOP. How does a hospitality operator juggle their work-life balance whilst keeping their finger on the pulse of their venue? OrderMate have listened to their customers and understand that operators are not always onsite 24/7 to pull off reports from the POS. As a result, they have developed an exciting live mobile reporting App called Control Centre. With the click of a button, operators can pull live data from their Point of Sale and see their sales figures for the day, week and month with comparisons relative to the previous period. As well as dollar value of surcharges, discounts, no sales and deletions – which are all crucial pieces of data. The Control Centre App is available on Smart Phones (Apple, Android and Windows) exclusively to OrderMate customers. For more information on the OrderMate’s Control Centre App call 1300 667 067 or visit the website: WWW.ORDERMATE.COM.AU


WHAT’S NEW > SMITH BALLS

> TAXI KITCHEN

OPENING: April 2014

OPENED: February 28, 2014

CUISINE: Italian

CUISINE: Modern Australian, Australian, European

ADDRESS: 98 Smith St, Collingwood

ADDRESS: Transport Hotel Federation Sq Flinders St

> MS COLLINS

PH: 9654 8808

> 19 APRIL 2014 South Melbourne Market Easter Egg Hunt Cecil St, South Melbourne Market More info: www.southmelbournemarket.com.au

> 6 APRIL 2014

HOURS: Tues - Sat 12pm - 11pm

OPENED: March 28, 2014 CUISINE: Cocktails, International Street Food ADDRESS: 425 Collins Streetm Melbourne

WEB: www.taxikitchen.com.au TWITTER: @taxikitch | FACEBOOK: Taxikitchen

HOURS: Tues - Wed 4pm - 11pm / Thu - Fri 4pm -3am

> CHEW BURGERS

TWITTER: @mscollinsmelb

OPENED: February 25, 2014

FACEBBOOK: MsCollinsMelb

CUISINE: Burgers

> LE GRAND CIRQUE

ADDRESS: 147 Plenty Rd, Preston PH: 9484 9720 HOURS: Tues - Thurs 11am - 10pm / Fri - Sat 11am -

OPENED: March 27, 2014

12pm / Sun 12pm - 10am

CUISINE: French

TWITTER: LeGrand_Cirque

> JABILI’S KITCHEN

> SMITH & DAUGHTERS

OPENED: February 15, 2014 CUISINE: African, Food Truck

OPENED: March 21, 2014

ADDRESS: 95 & 97b Smith Street Fitzroy

CUISINE: Latin American, Vegetarian ADDRESS: 175 Brunswick Street. Fitzroy PH: 9939 3293 HOURS: Tues - Fri 12pm - 1am / Sat 10am - 1am /

> 26 MARCH 2014

4pm - 10pm TWITTER: JabilisKitchen | FACEBOOK: jabiliskitchen

> POPOL NAH

WEB: www.smithanddaughters.com

OPENED: February 12, 2014

FACEBOOK: SmithandDaughters

CUISINE: Latin American

> GENERAL FOOD CO.

ADDRESS: 171 Lygon St Carlton PH: 9347 3293 HOURS: Mon - Thurs 11.30am - 11pm / Fri - Sat

OPENED: March 17, 2014

11.30am - 11pm / Sun 11.30am - 10pm

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee ADDRESS: 117 Nelson Place, Williamstown HOURS: Tues - Sun 8am - 4pm

WEB: www.popolnah.com.au

> B’CHURRASCO

> FEAST OF MERIT

OPENED: December 2013 CUISINE: Brazilian, Barbecue, Steakhouse ADDRESS: 61 A Beckett St, Melbourne

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee

> 6 APRIL 2014 2014 Melbourne Swiss Festival Queensbridge Square, Southbank More info: swissfestivalaustralia.com

> 29 - 30 MARCH 2014 Tastes of the South Festival Joe’s Bar and Dining Hall 64-66 Acland St, St Kilda More info: www.joesbar.com.au

FACEBOOK: popolnahmelbourne

FACEBBOOK: generalfoodco

OPENED: March 8, 2014

Upper Goulbourn Vintage Celebrations Median Reserve, High St Mansfield More: www.uppergoulburnwine.org.au/ category/news/events

HOURS: Thurs - Fri 5pm - 11pm / Sat 6pm - 12am Sun

Sun 10am - 11pm / Mon closed

> 06 APRIL 2014 The True History of Bread A free session on bread making North Melbourne Library More info: www.winemakers.com.au

HOURS: Wed - Thurs, Sun 6pm - 11pm

ADDRESS: 117 Swan Street, Richmond

Fri - Sat 6pm - 1am

HOURS: Seven days 7am - 11pm WEB: www.ygap.com.au/feast-of-merit2 TWITTER: @ygaps | FACEBOOK: YGAP.main

WEB: www.bchurrasco.com.au TWITTER: @B_Churrasco | FACEBOOK: BChurrasco

> BLENDCO. OPENED: October 2013

OPENED: March 7, 2014

> 25 APRIL - 4 MAY 2014 Daylesford Macedon Produce Harvest Festival Various Venues around Daylesford More info: www.dmproduce.com.au

TWITTER: @chew_burger | FACEBOOK: chew147

WEB: www.legrandcirque.com.au

> THE HIGH ROAD CAFE

Rockin the Hops Festival and Family Fun Day The Old Cheese Factory 34 Homestead Road Berwick More info: www.rockinthehops.com.au

WEB: www.chew.net.au

ADDRESS: 21 Daly Street, South Yarra

> 16 MARCH 2014 Raining Produce Bress Wines, Cider & Produce 3894 Calder Hwy, Harcourt More info: www.weekendnotes.com/the-truehistory-of-bread/

CUISINE: Juice and smoothie food truck

CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee ADDRESS: 736 Mount Alexander Road Moonee Ponds HOURS: Mon - Fri 7.30am - 4.30pm Sat 8.30am - 4pm

WHAT’S ON

WEB: www.blendco.com.au FACEBBOOK: blendcoaustralia INSTAGRAM: @blend_co

FACEBOOK: thehighroadcafe

WIN!

> 23 MARCH - 20 APRIL 2014 Melbourne International Comedy Festival Melbourne Town Hall 90-130 Swanston Street Melbourne VIC 3000 More info: www.comedyfestival.com.au For more upcoming events, please visit grammagazine.com.au

TO WIN A COPY OF RODNEY DUNN’S ‘THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN’

EMAIL US AT COMPETITIONS@GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU AND TELL US YOUR NAME AND YOUR FAVOURITE DISH TO COOK AT HOME. ENTRIES CLOSE FRIDAY APRIL 10, 2014.

INSTA LOVE Thanks @lissymac for this crazy pic of our March front cover!



JAFFLECHUTES www.jafflechutes.com Words and photos by We Heart.

ABOUT WE HEART We Heart is an award-winning UK-born online magazine, currently flirting with Australia’s cultural capital, that explores the intersections between design, culture, lifestyle and travel.

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

WWW.WE-HEART.COM TWITTER: @WE_HEART | FACEBOOK: WEHEART GOOGLE PLUS: WE HEART | PINTEREST: WE_HEART

There are toasted sandwiches falling from the sky. In a city defined by

diagrams I found on the internet” begins Grant, the driving force behind

its hipster food trends, the crowds have assembled at Melbourne’s most

a clandestine phenomenon that has already gained healthy notoriety

eccentric restaurant. Expectant faces look upwards, kids on Christmas

and fervour amongst Melbourne’s trend-conscious diners. The ex-army

Eve, teenagers waiting for their favourite band to take the stage.

boffin posting instructions for water bottle rocket parachutes surely

Smartphones aimed for the heavens, parched desert-dwellers praying

didn’t have cheese and ham toasties in mind. The core Jafflechutes trio

for long-due drops of rain. I can’t remember the last time I was in a

are surprisingly relaxed given one of their famous drops is looming,

dining room brimming with this much anticipation.

“things can get a little fraught” McDonald tells me, launching into an account of one particular chute dropping into the path of a patrolling

But I’m not in a dining room. No, I’m on Barry Lane – a usually forlorn

police car…

alleyway just off Lonsdale Street in the wrong end of Melbourne’s CBD. The team behind this rare culinary suspense? A clutch of media types

15 August, 2013. The morning before their first launch. Going to bed on

with nice hair, no tattoos, and certainly no formal training under a

10 orders, awaking to 60, pushing 100 by the time Grant was in work…

totalitarian gastronomic despot – no siree.

the word was out, and the frantic dash to fulfil orders was rewarded with a windy night. A very windy night.

Adam Grant, David McDonald and Huw Parkinson are seven floors up – oblivious to the anticipation, frantically preparing jaffles on a trio of

Six months on, several drops in, and the boys’ latest session begins to

Brevilles, fiddling with fancy coloured pipe cleaners and undertaking

look equally chaotic. Order #1, Elizabeth: straight onto a window ledge,

final checks on their parachutes. Yes: parachutes.

one floor down. A concerned silence washes over the team, slow motion, panic. (That last bit might just be my imagination, I’ve been sucked right

Everything was much calmer 30 hours prior, up north in Fitzroy.

into the drama – someone sign these chaps up for a movie deal.) Panic

Sharing a beer with the aforementioned trio, I’m undergoing a crash

over, subsequent chutes meet the baying public with little incident.

course on jafflechuting. Jaffles + chutes. “The chutes are based on

McDonald mans the Brevilles with honorary Jafflechuter Michael Sloan,

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21


the heightening stench of melted cheese is palpable, Parkinson occupies

Scratch the surface though, experience the obsessive ardour behind

the wrapping, sorting of orders, Grant is orchestrating the madness,

crafting hundreds of DIY plastic parachutes, the sheer daftness of

chuting with a little help from the young pair whose apartment the JC

cooking up jaffle after jaffle, the atmosphere generated at street level

crew have commandeered for their latest drop.

during a drop…

The atmosphere at ground level – amid those who placed their

Adam Grant, David McDonald and Huw Parkinson are architects of joy,

orders two days prior, they who have arrived under instruction from

pioneers in a new wave of nice – trailblazers in a global service industry

Jafflechutes’ social channels to the ‘secret’ location – couldn’t be further

so often sullied by surly staff and aloof better-than-thou posturing.

removed from the intensity upstairs. And here, my friends, doth lie the

Jafflechutes are not just delivering sandwiches by parachute, but

true essence of Grant, McDonald and Parkinson’s eccentric endeavours.

dispatching smiles, launching good times. Jafflechutes are the irresistible feel-good glow that Ferris Bueller’s Day Off never fails to render, the “go

Anticipation has been replaced by ebullience. Paper and foil are ripped

get him” fist-pump you can’t stifle when Woody galvanises his troops

from primitive lunchtime sandwiches with all the wide-eyed vigour an

in search of Buzz.

eight year-old reserves for pulling out Barbie’s hair and applying eyeliner to Ken. Chutes are caught, names are called, there’s relief, cheer.

Coming to a city near you (well, maybe: there are plans afoot for New York, Vancouver and Montreal), Jafflechutes may well be that trend, that

At ground level a community are thrust together, companions in a

fad, that gimmick. But you won’t be able to resist rooting for the good

perverse experience. Silenced couples each staring into the digital

guys.

oblivion, more concerned in the social activities of their intangible internet buddies than the living, breathing sack of flesh and bones sat

JAFFLECHUTES

across the table? Not at this restaurant, amigos. Hallelujah!

CUISINE: Jaffles, toasties, brevilles, toasted sandwhiches...whatever you grew up calling them!

Trend, fad, gimmick; Adam and his merry men have practically

WEBSITE: www.jafflechutes.com

lined themselves up and invited their own firing squad. There is no

TWITTER: @jafflechutes

escaping the cynical view that Jafflechutes is one hipster-food-fad

FACEBOOK: jafflechutes

too many in a city that has reached hipster-food-fad saturation point.

22


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23


Melbourne’s A collection of the best sky high bars and venues TRANSIT ROOFTOP BAR This groovy, New Orleans style cocktail bar, nestled at the top of the Transport Hotel at Federation Square, enjoys unrivalled views of Melbourne encompassing the arts precinct, Southbank and the Yarra River down to the MCG. In the afternoons the expansive deck area draws a sophisticated crowd to watch the sunset over Melbourne and enjoy a skilfully assembled cocktail and wine list as well as a cultured supper menu. As the night unfolds the dance floor heats up and the stage is graced by some of Melbourne’s best jazz and funk bands such as The Shuffle Club, Phoebe and the Night Creatures, and the Sarah C Band, to name but a few. Open from 3pm through till the cruisy, boozy early hours, Transit provides all the ingredients for a great night out under the stars! ADDRESS: Level 2 Transport Hotel - Federation Square Cnr. Swanston & Flinders Streets PH: 9654 8808 HOURS: Wed 3pm - 12am / Thurs - Sat 3pm - late / Sun 3pm - 12pm WEB: www.transitcocktaillounge.com.au FACEBOOK: TRANSITCOCKTAILLOUNGE

THE LAUREL HOTEL The Laurel Hotel is a local tradition and it has just reopened its rooftop for the summer season with a new retractable roof protecting you from the unpredictable Melbourne weather. When in use, the rooftop is 100 per cent water proof and heated for those cold nights. As you walk up the separate staircase entrance, you’ll hear the live local duo from the car park. Enjoy the famous jugs of Sangria and Chombord and a meal from the specialty rooftop menu or the specials board. The rooftop is open Thursday through to Sunday. Book a table before you arrive. ADDRESS: 289 Mount Alexander Rd, Ascot Vale PH: 9370 5800 HOURS: Thurs - Sun till late WEB: www.laurelhotel.com.au TWITER: LAURELHOTEL | FACEBOOK: THE-LAUREL-HOTEL

A BAR ABOVE - MOUNTAIN VIEW HOTEL The Mt View Hotel in Richmond has opened its brand new rooftop deck bar, A Bar Above. With a fully refurbished outdoor bar and beer garden, the Bridge Road establishment is set to become a prime summer drinking spot. The bar has unparalleled 360 degree views of the Melbourne skyline, a brand new bar, and is easily accessed from the city. The new cocktail menu has been developed by Londoner Tim Simon and features several mouth watering house specialities. The drinks list also features a clever mix of premium and craft beer, cider and wine. ADDRESS: 70 Bridge Rd, Richmond PH: 9428 3973 HOURS: Open seven days WEB: www.mtviewhotel.com.au | FACEBOOK: Mt View Hotel Richmond TWITTER: @hotel_view

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Rooftops

ADVERTISING FEATURE

THE EMERSON Every home needs a showstopper, and The Emerson’s is the rooftop terrace. The largest outside the CBD, it is a causal and relaxed space, where 360 degree views from South Yarra to the city skyline await. Grab a day bed, or private booth, and take in the sights as you share the delights from the extensive drinks, cocktail and food menu – where the focus is all about sharing. Home to indoor and outdoor bars, chilled tunes and sunset photo ops; this jewel in The Emerson crown is the perfect destination to wile-away a lazy afternoon on the sundrenched deck or hang around well into the evening. The rooftop provides a variety of spaces to eat, drink and play – it’s an absolute grown up playground! ADDRESS: 143-145 Commercial Road, South Yarra PH: 03 9825 0900 HOURS: Wed & Thurs 5pm – late / Fri – Sun 12pm - late WEB: www.theemerson.com.au TWITTER: @THEEMERSON_AU | FACEBOOK: EMERSONMELB

ALUMBRA Hidden at the end of Central Pier in the heart of the Docklands, sits Alumbra. Where great drinks, fun and friends come together in a magnificent terrace decking space with open bar and lounge area. Unwind in a versatile indoor and outdoor space with a fine beverage and grill menu every Friday 4pm to 9pm and Sunday from 4pm. Alumbra offers an open bar or catered private functions for a group of any size. Set on Central Pier, Alumbra features magical views of the water, famous sheds and surrounds. ADDRESS: Shed 9, Central Pier, 161 Harbour Esplanade, Dockland HOURS: Fri 4pm - 9pm (drinks and grill) / Sat 9pm (house) Sun 4pm (drinks and grill. rnb later). WEB: www.alumbra.com.au FACEBOOK: ALUMBRAMELBOURNE | TWITTER: @ALUMBRA_MELB INSTAGRAM: @ALUMBRA_MELBOURNE

NEXT MONTH IN GRAM MAGAZINE! Featuring Melbourne’s very best hidden gems, space in Melbourne’s Basements feature is selling fast!

MELBOURNE’S BASEMENTS

With over 20,000 copies distributed around Melbourne and Victoria every month, GRAM is the place to get noticed. Book your space today advertising@grammagazine.com.au or phone Jess on 0407 506 179

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25


CRISPY FISH BURGER: COMPLETELY CONVERTED

PICKLES: PERFECT ACIDITY

ROYALE WITH CHEESE: PULP FICTION INSPIRED


ROYALE BROTHERS Rear 1 Church St, Brighton. Ph: 9005 4242 Words by Peach Water photos by Hashem. ABOUT PEACH WATER Probably best described as a geek girl who is an avid and active video gamer, prone to carnivorous cravings and mad for macarons and cupcakes. When she is not sampling

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

the menu of Melbourne and beyond, she takes delight in designing and progressing her design portfolio.

WWW.PEACH-WATER.COM TWITTER: @PEACH_WATER | INSTAGRAM: PEACHWATER

Royale Brothers is a newcomer to the burger scene and was recently opened

For chips, Hashem and I shared a serving of chips lightly seasoned with

by the owners of The Pantry. It’s located to the rear of The Pantry and there

chilli seasoning and aioli. The chips were crisp and golden on the outside

are a long row of seats for people to sit down and enjoy their burgers.

and soft and fluffy on the outside.

After going through all the burger options, I settled for the crispy fish burger

Hashem chose the Royale with Cheese. He told me he chose this burger

which consists of crispy battered fish, avocado, tartar, house slaw, cheese

because of the reference of the Royale Cheese burger in the movie Pulp

and Coney Island cocktail sauce. I’ve never had such a delicious fish burger

Fiction. The burger didn’t dissapoint, he even mentioned that the pickles

in my whole life – no joke.

were pickled to the right acidity! Who else likes pickles here? Me!

Sandwiched between the beautiful soft golden brown milk buns lies the

If you love burgers and you’re willing to travel around Melbourne, then

most delicious crispy battered fish. I was completely converted after taking

The Royale Brothers is definitely a place on your must-visit list. The

a bite. On the outside the batter was cooked until crisp and light golden

burgers are high quality and I would definitely return just for the crispy

brown and the inside was juicy pieces of fish cooked to the perfection. It

fish burger. I can’t emphasise how much I loved that burger!

didn’t taste overcooked either. ROYALE BROTHERS The house slaw consisted of shredded cabbage, coriander (great addition)

CUISINE: Burgers, Fast Food

and sliced capsicum, which help add an element of freshness to the burger.

ADDRESS: Rear 1 Church St, Brighton PH: 9005 4242

The final element that made the crispy fish a perfection was the tartar, cheese

HOURS: 11am - 9pm seven days

and Coney Island cocktail sauce. I don’t know what they used to make the

WEBSITE: www.royalebrothers.com.au

Coney Island cocktail sauce, but it was a smooth, creamy and slightly tangy

FACEBOOK: theroyalebros

sauce that went well with the slaw, cheese and of course crispy battered fish.

INSTAGRAM: theroyalebros

NEW TO CHEF’S HAT

LUZERNE

Dedicated to the art of fine dining

www.chefshat.com.au

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28

SPAGHETTI CON LE COZZE: SERVE IN GENEROUS BOWLS


GETTING TO KNOW MUSSELS Recipe, words and photos by Apples Under My Bed.

ABOUT APPLES UNDER MY BED My name is Heidi. I adore homemade pie and spaghetti. My blog, Apples Under My Bed, is my food diary. I write about my life, what I cook, where I travel and what I eat. I am a dietitian, I love butter and the Mornington Peninsula is my home.

WWW.APPLESUNDERMYBED.COM.AU

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

TWITTER: @HEIDIAPPLES | INSTAGRAM: HEIDIAPPLES

I didn’t always love mussels. Early on in my eating career I made a few half-

so please do leave comments if you have suggestions on buying sustainable

hearted attempts to enjoy these shelled wonders. But it was a fruitless pursuit,

seafood. I’m hungry for knowledge.

as I continued to ignore seafood pasta in favour of ragus or pesto. The Sustainable Seafood app on my iPhone has been serving me well as a It wasn’t until travelling Italy with Ben on our seven month world adventure

reference on the best types of fish and canned tuna to purchase. This app

that I realised how incredibly delicious a plate of fresh mussels could be.

has taught me to avoid flake if buying fish and chips due to overfishing of

Though on a backpacking budget, anything tastes delicious (and free bread

shark meat, to really cut down my purchase of canned yellowfin tuna even

at restaurants is a saviour). Nevertheless, I believe it was the skilled hands of

if it is incredibly delicious (see this guide for more information), and to look

Italian seafood chefs who taught me how divine fresh mussels and clams can

for more wild Australian salmon when purchasing fresh fish. You can always

be. Whether decorating strands of pasta or piled in a bowl alongside a hunk

ask your fishmonger about their practices (and favour pole and line fishing

of bread, I now swoon for bivalve beauties.

methods), to help guide your selection ( just one of the many benefits from shopping at smaller specialty stores). This guide gives you some great quick

In line with my desire to get to know my food, and consuming and eating

tips on sustainable seafood and is worth a look.

mindfully and thoughtfully, I’ve been making an effort to consciously select where my seafood comes from. Boy, is this a learning process. I still have a

And if you can do one better, visit the fisherman himself! That’s what we get

long way to go and am relying on tips from others who know more than me,

to do when buying Harry’s Mussels in Flinders.

RECIPE: SPAGHETTI CON LE COZZE

the garlic, chilli and parsley stalks and cook for 30 seconds before adding the white wine and letting the alcohol evaporate.

INGREDIENTS 700g fresh, live mussels, cleaned and debearded

Add the mussels and half of the parsley leaves to the fry pan. Cover with a lid

200g spaghetti (dried works best in this dish)

and allow to cook for two minutes. After two minutes, lift the lid and check to

2 tablespoons olive oil

see if any mussels are slightly open. Remove any open mussels into a bowl and

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

put the lid back on, checking every minute and removing the open mussels

1/2 a red chilli, finely chopped (seeds removed if you don’t like heat)

until all are out of the pan and in the bowl.

2 handfuls fresh flat leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped 3 parsley stalks, chopped

Once the mussels are open and removed, add the three quaters cooked pasta

1/4 cup dry white wine

to the fry pan along with a good dash of the starchy cooking water (which will

1 cup starchy pasta cooking water (you won’t use it all but do reserve 1 cup

help create a silky sauce) and allow the pasta to cook for a minute or so until

before draining your spaghetti)

almost al dente but still not quite ready (adding more pasta cooking water as

Extra virgin olive oil, freshly cracked black pepper and a squeeze of fresh

required. The amount you use will depend on how much juice the mussels give,

lemon juice are optional extras when serving

you don’t want it soupy, but the pan should not be dry).

METHOD

When you’re one minute away from perfectly al dente pasta, add the mussels

Boil heavily salted water in a large pot. Cook your spaghetti until it is 3/4

back to the pan with the remaining parsley and toss everything together

cooked – it is best to err on the side of undercooked, as the al dente texture of

(again, adding more pasta cooking water if required). Taste and add a little sea

the pasta in this dish is paramount to it’s success (overcooked pasta is just so

salt if required (as the mussel liquid is salty, it may not be necessary)

sad). Reserve one cup starchy pasta cooking water before draining.

Serve in generous bowls, topped with a extras if desired such as a drizzle of extra virign olive oil, freshly cracked black pepper and a squeeze of lemon

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large fry pan over medium heat. When hot, add

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juice.

29


FROM LEFT: CRITTENDEN ESTATE OGGI 2012, DEXTER CHARDONNAY 2012 AND BRASH HIGGINS NERO D’AVOLA 2013

30


WINE REVIEWS Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo

ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

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WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM TWITTER: @LADONNADELVINO | FACEBOOK: LA-DONNA-DEL-VINO

CRITTENDEN ESTATE Oggi 2012

the memories. The Nero d’Avola fruit seems to enjoy its new home in

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

the McLaren Vale soil, displaying healthy, ripe cherry fruit characters with

RRP $35.00

elements of liquorice and lavender on the furry tannic finish.

A wine fermented on skins isn’t anything new, but the team at Crittenden

I would love to see this wine in another year or so after a bit more time

Estate took it upon themselves to create a label called Oggi (‘today’

mellowing in the bottle. In the meantime, while this is not your typical

in Italian), which allows them to show their customers what they

tasting wine, I imagine that the people who would buy this would not be

experimented with during a particular vintage in the winery. For 2012, it

looking for a cookie-cutter product. So everyone’s happy. Try it with lamb

is a blend of alternative white grape varieties grown in the Mornington

kofta or a similarly spiced/herbed piece of meat.

Peninsula. These include Friulano, Savagnin and Arneis. Stockists: St Crispin and The Town Mouse are pouring it, otherwise This is one of the more kooky wines I have tasted in some time. The

available at Banks Fine Wine and Carwyn Cellars.

nose is quite uncommon with aromas of guava, milk thistle and a hint of burnt sugar. The palate continues the eccentric ride with an overriding

DEXTER Chardonnay 2012

peppery character, medium acidity and a very dry and chalky finish. The

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

most obvious feature about Oggi is that it lacks fruit and is instead more

RRP $40.00

vegetal and spicy. Oggi is certainly a wine for the adventurous drinker. Try this unconventional blend with random dishes like a juicy burrito, salted

Only a few weeks ago I received an email from Tod Dexter requesting the

calamari or even some fishy Spanish tapas.

chance to review his latest 2012 Chardonnay. At the same time he had also put the feelers out to established writers and professionals for the

Stockist: Blackhearts & Sparrows, all locations.

opportunity to give his ego a boost or a battering. What a brave man!

BRASH HIGGINS Nero d’Avola 2013

Fortunately for Mr Dexter and Gram readers, I only have positive comments

McLaren Vale, South Australia

to add. The best and most telling attributes of this wine came from the

RRP $45.00

palate. It was the decent amount of graphitey and spiced almond oak that first caught my eye followed by a touch of minerals and butter. Despite the

Welcome to Brash Higgin’s world, where making a wine that stays on its

mouth coating buttery-ness, the palate is not overtly rich. It is downplayed

skins in beeswaxed-lined amphorae for 180 days using the southern Italian

by the lean fruit characters, clean acidity and almond meal phenolic finish

black grape Nero d’Avola is not an uncommon occurrence.

and ultimately displays great balance between fruit and wood. An ideal match for the Dexter Chardonnay would be a juicy Tandoori chicken thigh

This wine is an unusual bird, displaying complex aromas of bramble, kola

with a splash of mint yoghurt on the side.

nut, raspberries, cherries and a very distinct note of dried apricot. The last time I came across this particular perfume was when I fermented some

Stockists: Armadale Cellars, Armadale and Cloudwine Cellars, South

Tempranilllo on its skins for a good few months at Henschke winery. Ah,

Melbourne

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GRAM IS AVAILABLE AT 1000 VENUES AROUND MELBOURNE CBD DISTRIBUTOR LIST BANK PLACE

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1806

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Elephant and Wheelbarrow

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101 Café Bar

Tastebuds of Melbourne

Gloria Jeans

Plane Tree Café

Adelphi

The Mill

GPO Café

Purple Peanuts Japanese Café

Bluestone

Vialetto Restaurant

Imperial Hotel

Sheni's Curries

BISQ

Ito Noodle Café

Silk Road

Breadwell

HOSIER LANE

Izakaya Hachbeh

Strozzi

Brunetti (City Square)

Misty

Korova

Summit Café and Bar

Bull and Bear Tavern

Movida

Lanes Edge Bar

Switchboard Café

Bull Run

Langleys Café

The Brazilian Bean

Café 53

LA TROBE STREET

Mister Close

The Kitchen Cat

Café Rema

Basement @ 350 Latrobe

Movida Terrazza

The Sherlock Holmes

Cafenatics

Blaq Café Bar

Nando's

Treasury Restaurant and Bar

Cecconis

Café Nostimo

Nashi

Tutti In Piazza

Cherry & Twigs

Cafenatics on Latrobe

Ombra

Zuffa

Chin Chin

Club Chef

Pellegrini’s

Zuroona Café

City Library Café

Coffee Academy

Coda Bar Restaurant

Duke of Kent Hotel

Red Violin

Campari House Creperie Le Triskel

POP Restaurant and Bar

Romano's

DEGRAVES STREET

Coffee Eclipse

Frescatis Fine Foods

Royal Melbourne Hotel

Barber on Degraves

Crema Espresso Bar

Internet Café

Salida

Café Andiamo

Cumulus

Kanda Sushi Noodle Bar

Shuji Sushi

Degraves Espresso

Full Plate Café

Klik Food and Drink

Society Restaurant

Grill’d

Il Cubico Café

Latrobe Café

Spaghetti Tree

Little Cupcakes

KCL

Oriental Spoon

Spleen Bar

Sea Salt

Lustre Lounge

Spicy Noodle Café

Street Café

The Quarter

Nighcat Bar

William Angliss Bistro

The Bund

TOFWD Deli

Overdraft Café Papa Goose

LITTLE BOURKE STREET

DRIVER LANE

Roasted Coffee Bar

Bar Humbug

Penny Blue

Rosati

Brother Baba Budan

Superfino

Café 600 (Hotel Ibis)

The Mess Hall Tuscan Bar Grill Twenty Seconds Café

34

Tropicana

CENTRE PLACE

ELIZABETH STREET

Swiss Club Victoria

Ishiya Stonegrill Dining

Issu

Café Scalletti

Tazio Birraria Pizzeria

Korean BBQ Buffet

Café Victoria

Terra Rossa

Kri Kri

CHAPEL STREET

Citi Noodle Café

The Trust

La Di Da

Traffik Foods

Coffea

Virginia Plain

Little B

Food Inc

Yak Bar

Longrain

CITY SQUARE

Hudsons Coffee

3 Below

Jasper Kitchen

FLINDERS STREET

Mrs Parmas

Lord of the Fries

Bertha Brown

+39 Pizza

COLLINS PLACE

Piazza Vittoria

Desi Dhaba

Punch Lane

Feeling Fruity

SNITZ

Kikoo Sushi

Scugnizzo

Roozervelts

Spiga

Kitaya

Shuji sushi

The Garden Café

La Stazione

SMXL Café

Mezzo Bar and Grill


Softbelly Bar

Troika Bar

China Bar

The St Kilda Rd Boulevarde Café

Sorry Grandma

York Café

Hawkers Café

Times Café

Sushi & Bon Apetit

Infinity Café Bar

The Apartment

LONSDALE STREET

Ishikai Japanese Café

SWANSTON STREET

Vine Café Bar

Aspro Ble

Izakaya Den (Basement)

Beer Deluxe

Babbo

James Squire Brewhouse

Café Chinotto

LITTLE COLLINS STREET

Baguette Club

King of Kings

Café L’Incontro

Basso

Baraki

Postal Hall

Café Mimo

Bridie O’Reilly's

Club Retro

Red Hummingbird

Citi Espresso

Brisq

Colonial Hotel

Seoul House

Claypot King

Cacao Fine Chocolates

Degani’s

Syn Bar

Crown Café Bakery

Café De Tuscany

Demi Tasse

Teppansan

Druids Café Bar

Caffe e Torto

Emerald Peacock

The Portland Hotel

Easy Way Tea

Champagne Lounge

Encore Café Bar

Two Fingers

Gigi Sushi Bar

Chestnut Exchange Café

Hikari Sushi

Won Ton House

Gogo Sushi

Council House 2

J Walk Café

Dikstein

Japanese Pub Shogun

Elevenses

Kenny's Bakery

Exchange Coffee

Latte Love Café

Famish’d

Le Traiteur

Fiddler Pub

Legals Café Bar

Gills Diner

Madame Kay's

Gordon's Café & Bar

Urban Deli

Green Press

Wheat Restaurant Bar

Guava Bean Hairy Canary

MELBOURNE PLACE

Hudson’s

Saint Peters Bar & Restaurant

In a Rush Espresso Irish Times Pub

MEYERS PLACE

Kitten Club

Lily Blacks

Mamma’s Boy

Loop

Mar Lourinha

Waiters Restaurant

Menzies Tavern Oriental Tea House

MORAY STREET

Ortigia Pizzeria

Water Rat Hotel

Pony Quists Coffee

NEWQUAY PROMENADE

Rare Steakhouse

Fish Bar

Saki Sushi Bar

Live Bait

Stellini Bar

Mecca Bar

Tengo Sushi Terrace Deli

QUEEN STREET Bellini (ANZ Building)

LITTLE LONSDALE STREET

Chaise Lounge

1000 Pound Bend

Degani

166 Espresso Bar

Mercat Cross Hotel

Angliss Restaurant

Michaelangelo

Café 111

Muleta's

Café 18

Nashi

Don Too

Nourish

Equiniox

Romano's

Gianni Luncheon

Segafredo

Giraffe Café

Speck

Horse Bazaar Il Vicoletto

RUSSELL PLACE

La La Land

Bar Ampere

Koukos Café Match

RUSSELL STREET

Modo Mio Café

Bean Room

Oddfellows Hotel

Blu Point Café

Rue Bebelons

Café Little Hut

Shop 7 Espresso

Chilli Café

Strike

Chill On Ice Lounge

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom SPENCER STREET Carron Tavern

Melbourne Town Hall Mr Tulk (State Library North)

Pensione Hotel

Nando's

SPRING STREET

Old Town

Appitizer Kubklam Café 201 City Wine Shop Elms Family Hotel Federici Café Hudson's Lime Café Bar

Nelayan Indonesian Oxford Scholar Soul Café Starbucks Sushi Sushi The Lounge The Order Three Degrees

The European

Time Out Café

ST KILDA ROAD

Your Thai Rice Noodle

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Transport Young and Jackson Yoyogi TATTERSALLS LANE Section 8 (Chinatown) THE CAUSEWAY Grasshopper’s Feast WILLIAM STREET Illia Café and Bar La Stradda Café Metropolitan Hotel Nashi Slate The Mint WILLS STREET Operator25

Daily Coffee Gloria Jean’s Heaven Il Locale

GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE

ISSUE 38

FREE

PLEASE TAKE ME HOME

Izumi Krave Lime Café Metrop Café Movo Mod Oz Movo NGV Gallery Kitchen Purple Café The Blue Moose Café

There are 1000 distributors throughout Melbourne and regional Victoria. For the full list, visit our website at grammagazine.com.au

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