GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE
ISSUE 38
FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
Constable Gainsborough Millais Reynolds Sargent Turner Waterhouse
Tickets: 03 5434 6100 Packages: 1800 813 153
Exhibition organised by Bendigo Art Gallery and the Royal Academy of Arts, London Frank Cadogan Cowper, Vanity (detail), 1907, oil on panel. Š Royal Academy of Arts, London. Photographer John Hammond.
Higher education partner
What a magnificent March we have had. The
ON THE COVER:
weather has been ney on perfect, the food and
Spices not only just excite your
drink plentiful and we even had a public holiday
taste buds but also contain an
thrown in for good measure. Congratulations and
impressive list of plant-derived
much kudos goes out to the Melbourne Food
chemical compounds that are
and Wine festival organisers for a splendid event.
known to have disease preventing and health promoting properties.
April sees comedy galore in our fair city, Easter celebrations and
They have been in use since
ANZAC commemorations.
ancient times for their anti-
This month, GRAM features an array of pieces. From the newly
inflammatory, and carminative
opened Nieuw Amsterdam, to the semi-permanent, Place Holder.
properties. Spices have been a
Jafflechutes make an appearance, as do regional Victoria’s Annie
part of our food for centuries, and
Smithers and Harry’s Mussels. Burgers are still on everyone’s mind
are now an integral part of our life,
with Burger Royale and their perfect pickles and the team at
thanks to the European explorers,
Tucker talk to head cheesmonger Laura Lown, from Milk the Cow.
whose contributions in spreading them from their place of origin
We hope you will enjoy the latest edition of GRAM.
greatly help spices popular all over
Jess Hourigan, Editor
the world!
INSIDE APRIL GRAM
4. 4. NIEUW AMSTERDAM
8. PLACE HOLDER
12. MILK THE COW
16. ANNIE SMITHERS
I’M SO HUNGREE
ESPRESSO MELBOURNE
TUCKER
GASTROLOGY
4.
4. 20. JAFFLECHUTES
26. ROYALE BROTHERS
WE HEART
PEACH WATER
4. 28. GETTING TO KNOW MUSSELS APPLES UNDER MY BED
REGULARS: 18. WE LOVE
19. WHAT’S NEW AND WHAT’S ON
4.
30. WINE REVIEWS
30. WINE REVIEWS LA DONNA DEL VINO
32. WHAT’S HOT.
34. DISTRIBUTORS
FEATURES: 24. MELBOURNE’S ROOFTOPS
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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Melbourne. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
Editor: Jess Hourigan Email: jess@grammagazine.com.au Advertising sales Email: advertising@grammagazine.com.au Phone: 0407 506 179 Art and Design: Jess Hourigan
Head office Rothesay Media Pty Ltd 268 McKenzie Street Golden Square VIC 3555 info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au
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WANT YOUR BLOG TO BE FEATURED IN GRAM? SEND A LINK OF YOUR FOOD OR DRINK BLOG TO jess@grammagazine.com.au
NEW AMERICAN: NEW YORK INSPIRED SPACE
NIEUW AMSTERDAM 106–112 Hardware St, Melbourne. Ph: 9602 2111 Words and photos by I’m So Hungree.
ABOUT I’M SO HUNGREE I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and the world!). I love good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences. I hope you all enjoy reading as much as I enjoy sharing!
SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT
WWW.IMSOHUNGREE.BLOGSPOT.COM TWITTER: @IMSOHUNGREE | FACEBOOK: IMSOHUNGREE
If I’m about to head off for a trip for a while, and Brad is not coming with me,
to baffle me. However Nieuw Amsterdam’s take on this classic, with pate
I always use it as an excuse to schedule in a few extra meals together…as I’m
and terrine stacked on mini waffles, and finished off with a sliver of crispy
kind of saving him money since I won’t be around…right?
chicken skin and a drop of orange caramel, is not to be missed
Before this next trip, I insisted he come meet me after work one night to
I’ve always been a sucker for chicken pate, and here they have taken this
check out Nieuw Amsterdam.
love to a new level with a play on texture and the richness in flavour. The real highlights for me, were the tiny piece of chicken skin at the top, that audibly
This New York inspired space, which had taken over an old Irish pub and
crunched amongst the softness in the mouth, and the orange caramel,
given it a fresh and slick new face, is spread out over two levels. We opted
unexpected, but so delightful.
to sit upstairs, where the light was bright and inviting with lots of art deco hints in the decor. As we deliberated the menu, which defines itself as ‘New American’, with its roots in American culture and taking flavours and inspirations from the immigrant population, we nibbled on a small log of house made New York sourdough. The sourdough is cooked in a combi oven, which introduces
WITH THE ICE-CREAM JUST AT THE PRECIPICE BETWEEN HOLDING ITS SHAPE AND MELTING, IT WAS PERFECT WITH THE SMOOTH CHOCOLATE BAR THAT PUT UP NO RESISTANCE OR TENSION AGAINST MY SPOON AS I SCOOPED SOME UP.
steam and humidity to the process, resulting in a tanned and crunchy outside that contrasts nicely with the soft inside. There’s a delightful butteriness in
Grits fritters with a variety of sweetcorn and heirloom beetroots is pure
this dense bread,that leaves the fingers mildly oily.
comfort. The grits reminding me of gnocchi, with their round shape and fluffy and light texture. The flavours on a whole made me think of Mexico,
The concept of chicken and waffles, ever popular in the states, continues
WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
corn, bright flavours and all that cheese. Mmhmm!
5
GRITS FRITTERS: PURE COMFORT
CHICKEN AND WAFFLES: NIEUW AMSTERDAM’S TAKE ON THIS CLASSIC, NOT TO BE MISSED
these were delicious. I tend to usually opt for skinny and crunchy, but I was
GRITS FRITTERS WITH A VARIETY OF SWEETCORN AND HEIRLOOM BEETROOTS IS PURE COMFORT.
definitely wooed over with these generously cut, finger thick fries with a
I’ve been impressed with some of the newcomers onto the Melbourne dining
nice dark colour.
scene since the start of the year. Nieuw Amsterdam fills in a nice little space
On the side, I couldn’t resist a serve of Dutch potato fries with spiced garlic mayo. I’m not entirely sure what makes these Dutch, but I know that
where they’re dishing up amazing food, with some of the friendliest service, Our last savoury was the Southern style pork belly chops, completed with
at prices that really don’t hurt the pocket much that you might also be able
sauerkraut, apple sauce and crackling. Who can ever really dislike crackling?
to indulge in late into the night.
Certainly not I, as I dived in and happily snap, crackle, crunched my way through the lot!
So why are you still here? Hurry up and go get some (slightly schmancy) chicken and waffles in you!
I’VE ALWAYS BEEN A SUCKER FOR CHICKEN PATE, AND HERE THEY HAVE TAKEN THIS LOVE TO A NEW LEVEL WITH A PLAY ON TEXTURE AND THE RICHNESS IN FLAVOUR.
ADDRESS: 106-112 Hardware Street, Melbourne
Even before our dishes were cleared, I put in my dessert order, and quite
PH: 9602 2111
promptly, I found the Nieuw chocolate bar, with banana and tonka bean
HOURS: Mon - Thurs 12pm - 3am / Fri - Sat 12pm - 5am / Sun 12pm - 3am
ice-cream placed in front of me. With the ice-cream just at the precipice
WEBSITE: www.nieuwamsterdam.com.au
between holding its shape and melting, it was perfect with the smooth
TWITTER: @NieuwAmsterdam_
chocolate bar that put up no resistance or tension against my spoon as I
FACEBOOK: nieuwamsterdam
scooped some up.
COFFEE: Lavazza
6
NIEUW AMSTERDAM CUISINE: American, Barbecue
WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
Everything a great Chef needs for every occasion
WWW.CHEFSHAT.COM.AU
PRINCIPLES OF SIMPLICITY: LIGHT TIMBER AND BURSTS OF GREENERY 8
CENTRAL FOCAL POINT: DINING ROOM AND BAR AT EITHER END OF THE KITCHEN
PLACE HOLDER 9 Smith Street, Fitzroy. Ph: 9650 3155 Words by Lola Golightly photos by Guy Lavoipierre.
ABOUT LOLA GOLIGHTLY Is a glamourise, but slightly enigmatic Melbourne writer with a penchant for good coffee. SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT
ABOUT GUY LAVOIPIERRE Melbourne based food photographer specialising in lifestyle and food
WWW.ESPRESSOMELBOURNE.COM TWITTER: @ESPRESSOMELB | FACEBOOK: ESPRESSOMELBOURNE
The pair serves exceptional coffee with a cross-section-of-Melbourne
Place Holder kindly opened so close to the front door of my workplace
bean selection: Seven Seeds and Small Batch for espresso, Proud Mary for fi lter and “whatever else is tasting good” Sam tells me (this could 2014
coffee machine, with the added benefits of a cake cabinet and the fact 1864 50
1
that someone else makes my coffee and it doesn’t taste like bong water. So it follows that I’m there around 1000 times a week.
mean Everyday Coffee, Market Lane or Top Paddock thrown in the mix). R
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that it’s pretty much the same distance from my desk as the kitchenette’s
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You’d expect nothing less from boys known citywide not only for their 14 864 - 20 F RESH FROM 1
skills and knowledge but for their winning banter and service. Owners Sam and Sonam assembled the space themselves, adhering to
BRATIN
Sam is Seven Seeds alumni, recognisable to those who frequented
few pockets of stools turn out to be all you need to create a beautiful1864
De 2014 Clieu, Patricia and most recently, Top Paddock. Sonam’s clocked several years with the vintage Three Bags Full/Two Birds One Stone/ R S
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looking nook in which to read the paper.
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design principles of simplicity. Light timber, bursts of greenery and a ELE
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YEARS FRESH FROM 1864 -
2014
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9
EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE: CROSS SECTION OF MELBOURNE BEAN SELECTION
FOOD OFFERINGS HAVE EVOLVED: PASTRIES BY RUSTICA SOURDOUGH 10
PLACE HOLDER: A SEMI-PERMANENT PRESENCE
LIFE COLLECTION
European Style Cream Handle Knife Top Paddock crew (in and around locking down his architecture degree). Their partnership is a no-brainer: I’m no mathematician
Robert Gordon
Yuki
DIPPED TERRACOTTA COLLECTION
La tavola
Robert Gordon
but legend + legend is a winning formula. Place Holder is a semi-permanent presence, carved into the base of forthcoming real estate development, Neometro’s Number Nine Smith Street. The café looks into a display home set-up, which I like to imagine is my living room and that Place Holder is my butlertended kitchen. Artist-run gallery Slopes nests at the back of the building and a community garden by 3000 Acres launched with a ceremonious cracking of coconuts in mid-February. The garden – previously an unused car park – is dotted with twenty-two recycled vinegar vats reborn as garden plots. Place Holder’s pair of plots supplies fresh herbs for teas and edible flowers. Another plot owned by Hamish and Andy, I can only assume, grows organic hilarity.
a passion to inspire.... Cedar Hospitality is the industries choice for quality products, innovative ideas and foodservice concepts. Our 2000sqm showroom is fully equipped and our friendly sales team is happy to help with all your requirements.
Food offerings have evolved since Place Holder’s doors opened a month back. Silo by Joost provide granola and the occasional
Jason Rodwell
rice pudding, hearty-looking sandwiches and a stunning selection of pastries are by Brunswick Street’s Rustica Sourdough, and cakes and assorted sweet treats are by NORA and Top Paddock (the cookie with M&Ms, a pretzel and a potato chip melded into its surface deserves special mention, as do the activated-charcoal tarts). Open seven days (a godsend at this end of Smith Street where Mondays are hospitality’s Sabbath), Sonam and Sam are holding a place for you, brew at the ready (feel free to drop one by my desk: I take it black, no sugar, pretzel cookie on the side). PLACE HOLDER CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee, Cake ADDRESS: 9 Smith Street, Fitzroy HOURS: Mon - Fri 7am - 4pm / Sat - Sun 8am - 4pm WEBSITE: www.placeholdersmithstreet.com TWITTER: @Placeholdermelb FACEBOOK: placeholdermelb COFFEE: Seven Seeds, Small Batch, Proud Mary, Everyday Coffee, Market Lane and Top Paddock.
WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
“
Cedar is a lolly shop for me, I always find the majority of my requirements, and if they don’t have it they will find it for me. The Showroom is always tastefully decked out with new plates, glasses and serving wear, and stocks a great range of quality kitchen basics at a competitive price point. That’s why Cedar is My Hospitality Store
Jason Rodwell Head Chef
”
ALBERT ST FOOD & WINE
382 Sydney Rd, Brunswick VIC 3056 (03) 8354 6600
cedarhospitality.com
223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com
11
LAURA LOWN: HEAD CHEESEMONGER
MILK THE COW: OVER ONE HUNDRED SEASONAL, RARE AND SPECIALTY CHEESES
AN INTERVIEW: MILK THE COW 1/157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda Ph: 9537 2225 Words by Tucker. Photos by Emily Bartlett
ABOUT TUCKER Crafted by some of the most exciting and intelligent young writers, photographers and cooks in Australia and beyond, Tucker combines an array of recipes, technical how-to’s, and features on cooks, food culture and cooking and eating at home.
WWW.HEYTUCKER.COM
SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT
TWITTER: @HEY_TUCKER | INSTAGRAM: HEYTUCKER WWW.EMILYBARTLETTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
It’s early on a Wednesday morning and St Kilda is just starting to wake up.
OK, let’s talk cheese. What cheese would I find in your fridge at the moment?
On approaching 157 Fitzroy Street we are greeted by a young, smiling woman. Her checkered shirt is buttoned all the way to the top, her hair is
Right now I have a great selection of Sartori cheeses from the USA, which
tightly tied up and she is sporting a very sharp black blazer. “Hi, I’m Laura,
were sent to me to sample (it’s a hard life but someone has to do it) they
the head cheesemonger here at Milk the Cow”. Young, bubbly and uber
consist of cheeses rubbed in all sorts of things like, balsamic vinegar, chai
trendy, she wasn’t who we were expecting, but then again, perhaps it was
and Merlot.
wrong of us to assume anything given Milk the Cow’s growing reputation as one of Melbourne’s most innovative and modern specialty cheese shops.
Which cheeses are Melbournians going nuts for?
Did you always dream you would be a twenty-something cheese monger?
Firstly, we stock over one hundred seasonal, rare and specialty cheeses from all over the world and we love to match it with booze in a way that
Haha, not quite. I was one of those people who thought of cheese as
compliments and celebrates our cheeses. We flavour match anything from
something my dad would eat, that blue smelly stuff… I wouldn’t even go
our coffee to our cocktails and it is probably our passionate team and their
to Pizza Hut for the dislike of it. It wasn’t until I moved to London as a
attention to detail that distinguishes us.
struggling student and took a job behind a cheese counter that I fell in love. I worked at various fromageries for seven years before someone saw my
Where do you source your cheeses?
cheesy potential and put me through a specialist course. All over the globe, our range stems from the UK, France, Italy, Norway, USA, Wow, so you have a qualification in cheese? Yes.
Switzerland, Ireland, Spain and Australia and many more. We really trying
Is there a certificate? Yes.
to open up the doors into the variety of cheeses that are not typically that
Can I see it? Absolutely not.
accessible here in Australia.
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13
EXPERT MATCHING: BALANCING TEXTURES AND FLAVOURS
What should we be thinking about when making a cheeseboard? Definitely balancing textures and flavours, mixing tradition with more climate appropriate cheeses and a bit of forethought with regards to the drinks you might like to serve alongside.
SOURCED FROM AROUND THE WORLD: NOT TYPICALLY THAT ACCESSIBLE HERE IN AUSTRALIA
WE STOCK OVER ONE HUNDRED SEASONAL, RARE AND SPECIALTY CHEESES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD AND WE LOVE TO MATCH IT WITH BOOZE IN A WAY THAT COMPLIMENTS AND CELEBRATES OUR CHEESES.
Laura Lown’s Cheese board
Laura’s tips to respect your cheese…by choosing the right drink!
1. Something borrowed, something blue: a very traditional cheese has to be
Beer: Firm aged cheeses like Goudas. Match a Reypenaer XO (a three year
Stilton. I would choose a Colston Bassett Stilton.
old Gouda from the Netherlands) with a Palm, Belgium Amber Ale. The malty sweet, lightly bitter ale pairs wonderfully with the rich caramel and
2. I would pair the Stilton with a light and elegant Brillat Savarin. A triple
butterscotch character of the Gouda.
cream interior, soft fluffy white coating and a balance of both rich and light. Sparkling: The light and creamy Brillat Savarin is the most decadent match 3. To finish the board we need some texture and some bite. A Reypenaer
for the French sparkling Monmousseau Brut Etoile. The sparkling has
VSOP fits perfectly for our warmer weather. This Dutch cheese is sharp and
a refined finesse about it with flavours of fig, apple and pear and pairs
tangy with faint fruit sweetness.
beautifully with a luxurious triple cream cheese.
14
ADDRESS: 1/157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda PH: 9537 2225
HOURS: Tues - Thurs 12pm - late / Fri - Sat 12pm - 1am / Sun 12pm - 11pm. Mon Closed.
MILK THE COW
Gin: Choose a great quality gin like Gin Mare from the Mediterranean and
WEBSITE: www.milkthecow.com.au pair it with a Fleur du Maquis. This is a cracking combination, the gin has
TWITTER: @MilktheCowMelb been distilled with olives, rosemary, thyme and basil and the cheese from
FACEBOOK: milkthecowstkilda Corsica has an aromatic coating of rosemary, fennel seeds, juniper berries
COFFEE: Naked Espresso
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CUISINE: Cheese, Wine Bar, Coffee
WE FLAVOUR MATCH ANYTHING FROM OUR COFFEE TO OUR COCKTAILS AND IT IS PROBABLY OUR PASSIONATE TEAM AND THEIR ATTENTION TO DETAIL THAT DISTINGUISHES US.
and the occasional bird’s eye chilli. The sweetness of the cheese works
wonders with the light citrus notes in a well-made gin and tonic
SASHIMI OMAKASE: QUALITY AND QUANTITY
BEAUTIFULLY COOKED: PERFECTLY SEARED ON THE OUTSIDE
16
ICONIC: BRILLIANT MODERN TWIST
ANNIE SMITHERS BISTROT: TAKEN-OVER BY PASSIONATE TIM AND MICHELLE FOSTER
ANNIE SMITHERS BISTROT AND PRODUCE 72 Piper Street, Kyneton. Ph: 5422 2039 Words and photos by Gastrology.
ABOUT GASTROLOGY Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food and other deliciously related
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things. They travel around Melbourne and sometimes beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way and reporting back to their readers.
WWW.GASTRO-LOGY.BLOGSPOT.COM.AU
Iconic Annie Smithers Bistrot was recently taken-over by passionate
The slices of duck breast were cooked to a rarely found perfection
Tim and Michelle Foster, bringing about a brilliant modern twist to the
with the subtle smokiness allowing the rich flavour of the duck to
menu whilst retaining the métier and the spirit of the bistro, in one of
shine through. The accompanying confit leg was tender, the skin crisp.
Piper Street’s most beautiful spaces.
The sweet and sticky cherry jus provided the crowning element to a luxurious dish.
Under Tim’s guidance, the kitchen offers high-quality cuisine in a relaxed setting. The highlight of the cuisine served is seemingly simple
Consistent with our savoury courses, the desserts that followed were
but carefully prepared dishes; the fruit of Tim and Michelle’s expansive
superbly executed, well balanced and fresh.
experience in the world of hospitality. The rich chocolate delice was, as its name suggests, decadently rich. Tim was most recently the Executive Chef at Healesville Hotel Group,
The lavender honeycomb added a lovely textural element.
and prior to that was Head Chef at Hollicks Winery Coonawarra. Whilst his wife Michelle is a qualified Chef, she now works as the front of house
The lemon verbena poached yellow peaches exhibited a vibrant
Manager.
combination of flavours.
The dining room combines an atmosphere that is warm, welcoming,
The panna cotta was smooth and well crafted, the rhubarb was cooked
modern yet rustic and relaxed.
to perfection. The sorbet had a bold fresh strawberry flavour and the
From the kitchen flows a careful
selection of healthy, seasonal gourmet cuisine in the traditional bistro
melt-in-your-mouth texture of the shortbread accompanied perfectly.
style. Of particular note is that despite the complexity of the dishes crafted What we experienced was sensational. The menu is based on two
by Tim Foster, each element on every plate was cohesive and necessary,
central elements: top-quality ingredients from local producers and a
and when eaten together were stunning.
strong European influence. This enables the bistro to offer its guests the best meats, fish, vegetables and fruit available in Victoria.
Under Tim and Michelle, Annie Smithers brings traditional, classic dishes bang up to date using local and seasonal produce. The reputation of
Our favourite entree, the tortellini was exceptional. The filling of
Annie Smithers appears to be in safe hands.
deliciously savoury and melt in your mouth cauliflower was encased in al dente pasta. The accompanying roast cauliflower, raisins, pickled
ANNIE SMITHERS BISTROT AND PRODUCE
walnuts and stunning brown butter sauce made this a perfectly
CUISINE: French, International
executed, expertly balanced and intelligent dish.
ADDRESS: 72 Piper St, Kyneton PH: 5422 2039
The steak was beautifully cooked and arrived cooked medium as
HOURS: Thu - Sun 12pm - 4pm / 6pm - 11pm
requested. Perfectly seared on the outside and beautifully juicy and
WEBSITE: www.anniesmithers.com.au
pink on the inside. It was evident that the meat was sourced from a
TWITTER: @ANNIES_BISTROT
quality producer and great care had been taken in its preparation.
FACEBOOK: ANNIESBISTROT
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17
Stuff
ADVETISING FEATURE
WE LOVE A LOT
TASTE OF THE SOUTH AND SOUL IN ST KILDA The deep south of the US is synonymous with flavour. Think chilli and lime, gumbo from the heart of Louisiana and dark and smokey Texas style BBQ ribs. If right now you’re wishing you’d ordered the southern fried chicken instead of that quinoa and pomegranate salad, then the Tastes of the South weekend festival is where you need to be. From March 29 to 30, Joe’s Bar and Dining Hall is hosting a festival of food that will journey across 12 of the Southern States of America. Part owner of Joe’s Bar and renowned chef, Andrew Blake says he fell in love with Southern flavours after travelling the South-West on a search for the holy grail of ribs. He says “Melbourne is slowly acquainting itself with the traditions of Southern style food and we’re excited to be driving the trend.” A weekend of food, drink and Southern US culture wouldn’t be complete without a chilli-eating contest. From 4pm on Sunday March 30 you can show the world what your taste buds are made of. Entry is via Facebook. Go on, we dare you! Head to WWW.JOESBAR.COM.AU for more details.
EVER DREAMED OF HAVING A STALL AT SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET? South Melbourne Market is seeking submissions from individuals or companies to license a number of shops (stalls) in the Food Hall. If you are an experienced food specialist, this is your chance to own and operate a business within Melbourne’s oldest running and most dynamic Market. There are also a number of other non-food stall opportunities available at the moment. All information and Expression of Interest (EOI) documents and details of how to register are available at: WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
PRANA CHAI The Chai - Prana Chai was born after our four-year-traveling-around-the-globe. Returning to Melbourne with a simple idea: To do the best chai. Just like what we fell in love in south Asia and Nepal. We perfected the recipe in our St Kilda Café over the years and customers grew to know and love our chai. A Simple Philosophy - We are chai drinkers, not salesman. Our aim is to share the Prana that comes from chai and to help promote a calm frame of mind through our tea ceremony. We work hard and put a lot of effort into making an honest product that people can enjoy both in their homes and in their favorite café. The Natural Process - Our process is beautiful in its simplicity. We source fresh, whole spices from many parts of the world. We crack open and blend these spices with high quality black Ceylon tea, fresh ginger and Australian bush land honey that comes from highlands, all by hand. All the ingredients are natural. We do not use machines, additives or preservatives to ensure the Prana (life force) in our product stays intact. WWW.PRANACHAI.COM
OUT OF THE RESTAURANT. NOT OUT OF THE LOOP. How does a hospitality operator juggle their work-life balance whilst keeping their finger on the pulse of their venue? OrderMate have listened to their customers and understand that operators are not always onsite 24/7 to pull off reports from the POS. As a result, they have developed an exciting live mobile reporting App called Control Centre. With the click of a button, operators can pull live data from their Point of Sale and see their sales figures for the day, week and month with comparisons relative to the previous period. As well as dollar value of surcharges, discounts, no sales and deletions – which are all crucial pieces of data. The Control Centre App is available on Smart Phones (Apple, Android and Windows) exclusively to OrderMate customers. For more information on the OrderMate’s Control Centre App call 1300 667 067 or visit the website: WWW.ORDERMATE.COM.AU
WHAT’S NEW > SMITH BALLS
> TAXI KITCHEN
OPENING: April 2014
OPENED: February 28, 2014
CUISINE: Italian
CUISINE: Modern Australian, Australian, European
ADDRESS: 98 Smith St, Collingwood
ADDRESS: Transport Hotel Federation Sq Flinders St
> MS COLLINS
PH: 9654 8808
> 19 APRIL 2014 South Melbourne Market Easter Egg Hunt Cecil St, South Melbourne Market More info: www.southmelbournemarket.com.au
> 6 APRIL 2014
HOURS: Tues - Sat 12pm - 11pm
OPENED: March 28, 2014 CUISINE: Cocktails, International Street Food ADDRESS: 425 Collins Streetm Melbourne
WEB: www.taxikitchen.com.au TWITTER: @taxikitch | FACEBOOK: Taxikitchen
HOURS: Tues - Wed 4pm - 11pm / Thu - Fri 4pm -3am
> CHEW BURGERS
TWITTER: @mscollinsmelb
OPENED: February 25, 2014
FACEBBOOK: MsCollinsMelb
CUISINE: Burgers
> LE GRAND CIRQUE
ADDRESS: 147 Plenty Rd, Preston PH: 9484 9720 HOURS: Tues - Thurs 11am - 10pm / Fri - Sat 11am -
OPENED: March 27, 2014
12pm / Sun 12pm - 10am
CUISINE: French
TWITTER: LeGrand_Cirque
> JABILI’S KITCHEN
> SMITH & DAUGHTERS
OPENED: February 15, 2014 CUISINE: African, Food Truck
OPENED: March 21, 2014
ADDRESS: 95 & 97b Smith Street Fitzroy
CUISINE: Latin American, Vegetarian ADDRESS: 175 Brunswick Street. Fitzroy PH: 9939 3293 HOURS: Tues - Fri 12pm - 1am / Sat 10am - 1am /
> 26 MARCH 2014
4pm - 10pm TWITTER: JabilisKitchen | FACEBOOK: jabiliskitchen
> POPOL NAH
WEB: www.smithanddaughters.com
OPENED: February 12, 2014
FACEBOOK: SmithandDaughters
CUISINE: Latin American
> GENERAL FOOD CO.
ADDRESS: 171 Lygon St Carlton PH: 9347 3293 HOURS: Mon - Thurs 11.30am - 11pm / Fri - Sat
OPENED: March 17, 2014
11.30am - 11pm / Sun 11.30am - 10pm
CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee ADDRESS: 117 Nelson Place, Williamstown HOURS: Tues - Sun 8am - 4pm
WEB: www.popolnah.com.au
> B’CHURRASCO
> FEAST OF MERIT
OPENED: December 2013 CUISINE: Brazilian, Barbecue, Steakhouse ADDRESS: 61 A Beckett St, Melbourne
CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee
> 6 APRIL 2014 2014 Melbourne Swiss Festival Queensbridge Square, Southbank More info: swissfestivalaustralia.com
> 29 - 30 MARCH 2014 Tastes of the South Festival Joe’s Bar and Dining Hall 64-66 Acland St, St Kilda More info: www.joesbar.com.au
FACEBOOK: popolnahmelbourne
FACEBBOOK: generalfoodco
OPENED: March 8, 2014
Upper Goulbourn Vintage Celebrations Median Reserve, High St Mansfield More: www.uppergoulburnwine.org.au/ category/news/events
HOURS: Thurs - Fri 5pm - 11pm / Sat 6pm - 12am Sun
Sun 10am - 11pm / Mon closed
> 06 APRIL 2014 The True History of Bread A free session on bread making North Melbourne Library More info: www.winemakers.com.au
HOURS: Wed - Thurs, Sun 6pm - 11pm
ADDRESS: 117 Swan Street, Richmond
Fri - Sat 6pm - 1am
HOURS: Seven days 7am - 11pm WEB: www.ygap.com.au/feast-of-merit2 TWITTER: @ygaps | FACEBOOK: YGAP.main
WEB: www.bchurrasco.com.au TWITTER: @B_Churrasco | FACEBOOK: BChurrasco
> BLENDCO. OPENED: October 2013
OPENED: March 7, 2014
> 25 APRIL - 4 MAY 2014 Daylesford Macedon Produce Harvest Festival Various Venues around Daylesford More info: www.dmproduce.com.au
TWITTER: @chew_burger | FACEBOOK: chew147
WEB: www.legrandcirque.com.au
> THE HIGH ROAD CAFE
Rockin the Hops Festival and Family Fun Day The Old Cheese Factory 34 Homestead Road Berwick More info: www.rockinthehops.com.au
WEB: www.chew.net.au
ADDRESS: 21 Daly Street, South Yarra
> 16 MARCH 2014 Raining Produce Bress Wines, Cider & Produce 3894 Calder Hwy, Harcourt More info: www.weekendnotes.com/the-truehistory-of-bread/
CUISINE: Juice and smoothie food truck
CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee ADDRESS: 736 Mount Alexander Road Moonee Ponds HOURS: Mon - Fri 7.30am - 4.30pm Sat 8.30am - 4pm
WHAT’S ON
WEB: www.blendco.com.au FACEBBOOK: blendcoaustralia INSTAGRAM: @blend_co
FACEBOOK: thehighroadcafe
WIN!
> 23 MARCH - 20 APRIL 2014 Melbourne International Comedy Festival Melbourne Town Hall 90-130 Swanston Street Melbourne VIC 3000 More info: www.comedyfestival.com.au For more upcoming events, please visit grammagazine.com.au
TO WIN A COPY OF RODNEY DUNN’S ‘THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN’
EMAIL US AT COMPETITIONS@GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU AND TELL US YOUR NAME AND YOUR FAVOURITE DISH TO COOK AT HOME. ENTRIES CLOSE FRIDAY APRIL 10, 2014.
INSTA LOVE Thanks @lissymac for this crazy pic of our March front cover!
JAFFLECHUTES www.jafflechutes.com Words and photos by We Heart.
ABOUT WE HEART We Heart is an award-winning UK-born online magazine, currently flirting with Australia’s cultural capital, that explores the intersections between design, culture, lifestyle and travel.
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WWW.WE-HEART.COM TWITTER: @WE_HEART | FACEBOOK: WEHEART GOOGLE PLUS: WE HEART | PINTEREST: WE_HEART
There are toasted sandwiches falling from the sky. In a city defined by
diagrams I found on the internet” begins Grant, the driving force behind
its hipster food trends, the crowds have assembled at Melbourne’s most
a clandestine phenomenon that has already gained healthy notoriety
eccentric restaurant. Expectant faces look upwards, kids on Christmas
and fervour amongst Melbourne’s trend-conscious diners. The ex-army
Eve, teenagers waiting for their favourite band to take the stage.
boffin posting instructions for water bottle rocket parachutes surely
Smartphones aimed for the heavens, parched desert-dwellers praying
didn’t have cheese and ham toasties in mind. The core Jafflechutes trio
for long-due drops of rain. I can’t remember the last time I was in a
are surprisingly relaxed given one of their famous drops is looming,
dining room brimming with this much anticipation.
“things can get a little fraught” McDonald tells me, launching into an account of one particular chute dropping into the path of a patrolling
But I’m not in a dining room. No, I’m on Barry Lane – a usually forlorn
police car…
alleyway just off Lonsdale Street in the wrong end of Melbourne’s CBD. The team behind this rare culinary suspense? A clutch of media types
15 August, 2013. The morning before their first launch. Going to bed on
with nice hair, no tattoos, and certainly no formal training under a
10 orders, awaking to 60, pushing 100 by the time Grant was in work…
totalitarian gastronomic despot – no siree.
the word was out, and the frantic dash to fulfil orders was rewarded with a windy night. A very windy night.
Adam Grant, David McDonald and Huw Parkinson are seven floors up – oblivious to the anticipation, frantically preparing jaffles on a trio of
Six months on, several drops in, and the boys’ latest session begins to
Brevilles, fiddling with fancy coloured pipe cleaners and undertaking
look equally chaotic. Order #1, Elizabeth: straight onto a window ledge,
final checks on their parachutes. Yes: parachutes.
one floor down. A concerned silence washes over the team, slow motion, panic. (That last bit might just be my imagination, I’ve been sucked right
Everything was much calmer 30 hours prior, up north in Fitzroy.
into the drama – someone sign these chaps up for a movie deal.) Panic
Sharing a beer with the aforementioned trio, I’m undergoing a crash
over, subsequent chutes meet the baying public with little incident.
course on jafflechuting. Jaffles + chutes. “The chutes are based on
McDonald mans the Brevilles with honorary Jafflechuter Michael Sloan,
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21
the heightening stench of melted cheese is palpable, Parkinson occupies
Scratch the surface though, experience the obsessive ardour behind
the wrapping, sorting of orders, Grant is orchestrating the madness,
crafting hundreds of DIY plastic parachutes, the sheer daftness of
chuting with a little help from the young pair whose apartment the JC
cooking up jaffle after jaffle, the atmosphere generated at street level
crew have commandeered for their latest drop.
during a drop…
The atmosphere at ground level – amid those who placed their
Adam Grant, David McDonald and Huw Parkinson are architects of joy,
orders two days prior, they who have arrived under instruction from
pioneers in a new wave of nice – trailblazers in a global service industry
Jafflechutes’ social channels to the ‘secret’ location – couldn’t be further
so often sullied by surly staff and aloof better-than-thou posturing.
removed from the intensity upstairs. And here, my friends, doth lie the
Jafflechutes are not just delivering sandwiches by parachute, but
true essence of Grant, McDonald and Parkinson’s eccentric endeavours.
dispatching smiles, launching good times. Jafflechutes are the irresistible feel-good glow that Ferris Bueller’s Day Off never fails to render, the “go
Anticipation has been replaced by ebullience. Paper and foil are ripped
get him” fist-pump you can’t stifle when Woody galvanises his troops
from primitive lunchtime sandwiches with all the wide-eyed vigour an
in search of Buzz.
eight year-old reserves for pulling out Barbie’s hair and applying eyeliner to Ken. Chutes are caught, names are called, there’s relief, cheer.
Coming to a city near you (well, maybe: there are plans afoot for New York, Vancouver and Montreal), Jafflechutes may well be that trend, that
At ground level a community are thrust together, companions in a
fad, that gimmick. But you won’t be able to resist rooting for the good
perverse experience. Silenced couples each staring into the digital
guys.
oblivion, more concerned in the social activities of their intangible internet buddies than the living, breathing sack of flesh and bones sat
JAFFLECHUTES
across the table? Not at this restaurant, amigos. Hallelujah!
CUISINE: Jaffles, toasties, brevilles, toasted sandwhiches...whatever you grew up calling them!
Trend, fad, gimmick; Adam and his merry men have practically
WEBSITE: www.jafflechutes.com
lined themselves up and invited their own firing squad. There is no
TWITTER: @jafflechutes
escaping the cynical view that Jafflechutes is one hipster-food-fad
FACEBOOK: jafflechutes
too many in a city that has reached hipster-food-fad saturation point.
22
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23
Melbourne’s A collection of the best sky high bars and venues TRANSIT ROOFTOP BAR This groovy, New Orleans style cocktail bar, nestled at the top of the Transport Hotel at Federation Square, enjoys unrivalled views of Melbourne encompassing the arts precinct, Southbank and the Yarra River down to the MCG. In the afternoons the expansive deck area draws a sophisticated crowd to watch the sunset over Melbourne and enjoy a skilfully assembled cocktail and wine list as well as a cultured supper menu. As the night unfolds the dance floor heats up and the stage is graced by some of Melbourne’s best jazz and funk bands such as The Shuffle Club, Phoebe and the Night Creatures, and the Sarah C Band, to name but a few. Open from 3pm through till the cruisy, boozy early hours, Transit provides all the ingredients for a great night out under the stars! ADDRESS: Level 2 Transport Hotel - Federation Square Cnr. Swanston & Flinders Streets PH: 9654 8808 HOURS: Wed 3pm - 12am / Thurs - Sat 3pm - late / Sun 3pm - 12pm WEB: www.transitcocktaillounge.com.au FACEBOOK: TRANSITCOCKTAILLOUNGE
THE LAUREL HOTEL The Laurel Hotel is a local tradition and it has just reopened its rooftop for the summer season with a new retractable roof protecting you from the unpredictable Melbourne weather. When in use, the rooftop is 100 per cent water proof and heated for those cold nights. As you walk up the separate staircase entrance, you’ll hear the live local duo from the car park. Enjoy the famous jugs of Sangria and Chombord and a meal from the specialty rooftop menu or the specials board. The rooftop is open Thursday through to Sunday. Book a table before you arrive. ADDRESS: 289 Mount Alexander Rd, Ascot Vale PH: 9370 5800 HOURS: Thurs - Sun till late WEB: www.laurelhotel.com.au TWITER: LAURELHOTEL | FACEBOOK: THE-LAUREL-HOTEL
A BAR ABOVE - MOUNTAIN VIEW HOTEL The Mt View Hotel in Richmond has opened its brand new rooftop deck bar, A Bar Above. With a fully refurbished outdoor bar and beer garden, the Bridge Road establishment is set to become a prime summer drinking spot. The bar has unparalleled 360 degree views of the Melbourne skyline, a brand new bar, and is easily accessed from the city. The new cocktail menu has been developed by Londoner Tim Simon and features several mouth watering house specialities. The drinks list also features a clever mix of premium and craft beer, cider and wine. ADDRESS: 70 Bridge Rd, Richmond PH: 9428 3973 HOURS: Open seven days WEB: www.mtviewhotel.com.au | FACEBOOK: Mt View Hotel Richmond TWITTER: @hotel_view
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Rooftops
ADVERTISING FEATURE
THE EMERSON Every home needs a showstopper, and The Emerson’s is the rooftop terrace. The largest outside the CBD, it is a causal and relaxed space, where 360 degree views from South Yarra to the city skyline await. Grab a day bed, or private booth, and take in the sights as you share the delights from the extensive drinks, cocktail and food menu – where the focus is all about sharing. Home to indoor and outdoor bars, chilled tunes and sunset photo ops; this jewel in The Emerson crown is the perfect destination to wile-away a lazy afternoon on the sundrenched deck or hang around well into the evening. The rooftop provides a variety of spaces to eat, drink and play – it’s an absolute grown up playground! ADDRESS: 143-145 Commercial Road, South Yarra PH: 03 9825 0900 HOURS: Wed & Thurs 5pm – late / Fri – Sun 12pm - late WEB: www.theemerson.com.au TWITTER: @THEEMERSON_AU | FACEBOOK: EMERSONMELB
ALUMBRA Hidden at the end of Central Pier in the heart of the Docklands, sits Alumbra. Where great drinks, fun and friends come together in a magnificent terrace decking space with open bar and lounge area. Unwind in a versatile indoor and outdoor space with a fine beverage and grill menu every Friday 4pm to 9pm and Sunday from 4pm. Alumbra offers an open bar or catered private functions for a group of any size. Set on Central Pier, Alumbra features magical views of the water, famous sheds and surrounds. ADDRESS: Shed 9, Central Pier, 161 Harbour Esplanade, Dockland HOURS: Fri 4pm - 9pm (drinks and grill) / Sat 9pm (house) Sun 4pm (drinks and grill. rnb later). WEB: www.alumbra.com.au FACEBOOK: ALUMBRAMELBOURNE | TWITTER: @ALUMBRA_MELB INSTAGRAM: @ALUMBRA_MELBOURNE
NEXT MONTH IN GRAM MAGAZINE! Featuring Melbourne’s very best hidden gems, space in Melbourne’s Basements feature is selling fast!
MELBOURNE’S BASEMENTS
With over 20,000 copies distributed around Melbourne and Victoria every month, GRAM is the place to get noticed. Book your space today advertising@grammagazine.com.au or phone Jess on 0407 506 179
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25
CRISPY FISH BURGER: COMPLETELY CONVERTED
PICKLES: PERFECT ACIDITY
ROYALE WITH CHEESE: PULP FICTION INSPIRED
ROYALE BROTHERS Rear 1 Church St, Brighton. Ph: 9005 4242 Words by Peach Water photos by Hashem. ABOUT PEACH WATER Probably best described as a geek girl who is an avid and active video gamer, prone to carnivorous cravings and mad for macarons and cupcakes. When she is not sampling
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the menu of Melbourne and beyond, she takes delight in designing and progressing her design portfolio.
WWW.PEACH-WATER.COM TWITTER: @PEACH_WATER | INSTAGRAM: PEACHWATER
Royale Brothers is a newcomer to the burger scene and was recently opened
For chips, Hashem and I shared a serving of chips lightly seasoned with
by the owners of The Pantry. It’s located to the rear of The Pantry and there
chilli seasoning and aioli. The chips were crisp and golden on the outside
are a long row of seats for people to sit down and enjoy their burgers.
and soft and fluffy on the outside.
After going through all the burger options, I settled for the crispy fish burger
Hashem chose the Royale with Cheese. He told me he chose this burger
which consists of crispy battered fish, avocado, tartar, house slaw, cheese
because of the reference of the Royale Cheese burger in the movie Pulp
and Coney Island cocktail sauce. I’ve never had such a delicious fish burger
Fiction. The burger didn’t dissapoint, he even mentioned that the pickles
in my whole life – no joke.
were pickled to the right acidity! Who else likes pickles here? Me!
Sandwiched between the beautiful soft golden brown milk buns lies the
If you love burgers and you’re willing to travel around Melbourne, then
most delicious crispy battered fish. I was completely converted after taking
The Royale Brothers is definitely a place on your must-visit list. The
a bite. On the outside the batter was cooked until crisp and light golden
burgers are high quality and I would definitely return just for the crispy
brown and the inside was juicy pieces of fish cooked to the perfection. It
fish burger. I can’t emphasise how much I loved that burger!
didn’t taste overcooked either. ROYALE BROTHERS The house slaw consisted of shredded cabbage, coriander (great addition)
CUISINE: Burgers, Fast Food
and sliced capsicum, which help add an element of freshness to the burger.
ADDRESS: Rear 1 Church St, Brighton PH: 9005 4242
The final element that made the crispy fish a perfection was the tartar, cheese
HOURS: 11am - 9pm seven days
and Coney Island cocktail sauce. I don’t know what they used to make the
WEBSITE: www.royalebrothers.com.au
Coney Island cocktail sauce, but it was a smooth, creamy and slightly tangy
FACEBOOK: theroyalebros
sauce that went well with the slaw, cheese and of course crispy battered fish.
INSTAGRAM: theroyalebros
NEW TO CHEF’S HAT
LUZERNE
Dedicated to the art of fine dining
www.chefshat.com.au
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28
SPAGHETTI CON LE COZZE: SERVE IN GENEROUS BOWLS
GETTING TO KNOW MUSSELS Recipe, words and photos by Apples Under My Bed.
ABOUT APPLES UNDER MY BED My name is Heidi. I adore homemade pie and spaghetti. My blog, Apples Under My Bed, is my food diary. I write about my life, what I cook, where I travel and what I eat. I am a dietitian, I love butter and the Mornington Peninsula is my home.
WWW.APPLESUNDERMYBED.COM.AU
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TWITTER: @HEIDIAPPLES | INSTAGRAM: HEIDIAPPLES
I didn’t always love mussels. Early on in my eating career I made a few half-
so please do leave comments if you have suggestions on buying sustainable
hearted attempts to enjoy these shelled wonders. But it was a fruitless pursuit,
seafood. I’m hungry for knowledge.
as I continued to ignore seafood pasta in favour of ragus or pesto. The Sustainable Seafood app on my iPhone has been serving me well as a It wasn’t until travelling Italy with Ben on our seven month world adventure
reference on the best types of fish and canned tuna to purchase. This app
that I realised how incredibly delicious a plate of fresh mussels could be.
has taught me to avoid flake if buying fish and chips due to overfishing of
Though on a backpacking budget, anything tastes delicious (and free bread
shark meat, to really cut down my purchase of canned yellowfin tuna even
at restaurants is a saviour). Nevertheless, I believe it was the skilled hands of
if it is incredibly delicious (see this guide for more information), and to look
Italian seafood chefs who taught me how divine fresh mussels and clams can
for more wild Australian salmon when purchasing fresh fish. You can always
be. Whether decorating strands of pasta or piled in a bowl alongside a hunk
ask your fishmonger about their practices (and favour pole and line fishing
of bread, I now swoon for bivalve beauties.
methods), to help guide your selection ( just one of the many benefits from shopping at smaller specialty stores). This guide gives you some great quick
In line with my desire to get to know my food, and consuming and eating
tips on sustainable seafood and is worth a look.
mindfully and thoughtfully, I’ve been making an effort to consciously select where my seafood comes from. Boy, is this a learning process. I still have a
And if you can do one better, visit the fisherman himself! That’s what we get
long way to go and am relying on tips from others who know more than me,
to do when buying Harry’s Mussels in Flinders.
RECIPE: SPAGHETTI CON LE COZZE
the garlic, chilli and parsley stalks and cook for 30 seconds before adding the white wine and letting the alcohol evaporate.
INGREDIENTS 700g fresh, live mussels, cleaned and debearded
Add the mussels and half of the parsley leaves to the fry pan. Cover with a lid
200g spaghetti (dried works best in this dish)
and allow to cook for two minutes. After two minutes, lift the lid and check to
2 tablespoons olive oil
see if any mussels are slightly open. Remove any open mussels into a bowl and
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
put the lid back on, checking every minute and removing the open mussels
1/2 a red chilli, finely chopped (seeds removed if you don’t like heat)
until all are out of the pan and in the bowl.
2 handfuls fresh flat leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped 3 parsley stalks, chopped
Once the mussels are open and removed, add the three quaters cooked pasta
1/4 cup dry white wine
to the fry pan along with a good dash of the starchy cooking water (which will
1 cup starchy pasta cooking water (you won’t use it all but do reserve 1 cup
help create a silky sauce) and allow the pasta to cook for a minute or so until
before draining your spaghetti)
almost al dente but still not quite ready (adding more pasta cooking water as
Extra virgin olive oil, freshly cracked black pepper and a squeeze of fresh
required. The amount you use will depend on how much juice the mussels give,
lemon juice are optional extras when serving
you don’t want it soupy, but the pan should not be dry).
METHOD
When you’re one minute away from perfectly al dente pasta, add the mussels
Boil heavily salted water in a large pot. Cook your spaghetti until it is 3/4
back to the pan with the remaining parsley and toss everything together
cooked – it is best to err on the side of undercooked, as the al dente texture of
(again, adding more pasta cooking water if required). Taste and add a little sea
the pasta in this dish is paramount to it’s success (overcooked pasta is just so
salt if required (as the mussel liquid is salty, it may not be necessary)
sad). Reserve one cup starchy pasta cooking water before draining.
Serve in generous bowls, topped with a extras if desired such as a drizzle of extra virign olive oil, freshly cracked black pepper and a squeeze of lemon
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large fry pan over medium heat. When hot, add
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juice.
29
FROM LEFT: CRITTENDEN ESTATE OGGI 2012, DEXTER CHARDONNAY 2012 AND BRASH HIGGINS NERO D’AVOLA 2013
30
WINE REVIEWS Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo
ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
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WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM TWITTER: @LADONNADELVINO | FACEBOOK: LA-DONNA-DEL-VINO
CRITTENDEN ESTATE Oggi 2012
the memories. The Nero d’Avola fruit seems to enjoy its new home in
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
the McLaren Vale soil, displaying healthy, ripe cherry fruit characters with
RRP $35.00
elements of liquorice and lavender on the furry tannic finish.
A wine fermented on skins isn’t anything new, but the team at Crittenden
I would love to see this wine in another year or so after a bit more time
Estate took it upon themselves to create a label called Oggi (‘today’
mellowing in the bottle. In the meantime, while this is not your typical
in Italian), which allows them to show their customers what they
tasting wine, I imagine that the people who would buy this would not be
experimented with during a particular vintage in the winery. For 2012, it
looking for a cookie-cutter product. So everyone’s happy. Try it with lamb
is a blend of alternative white grape varieties grown in the Mornington
kofta or a similarly spiced/herbed piece of meat.
Peninsula. These include Friulano, Savagnin and Arneis. Stockists: St Crispin and The Town Mouse are pouring it, otherwise This is one of the more kooky wines I have tasted in some time. The
available at Banks Fine Wine and Carwyn Cellars.
nose is quite uncommon with aromas of guava, milk thistle and a hint of burnt sugar. The palate continues the eccentric ride with an overriding
DEXTER Chardonnay 2012
peppery character, medium acidity and a very dry and chalky finish. The
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
most obvious feature about Oggi is that it lacks fruit and is instead more
RRP $40.00
vegetal and spicy. Oggi is certainly a wine for the adventurous drinker. Try this unconventional blend with random dishes like a juicy burrito, salted
Only a few weeks ago I received an email from Tod Dexter requesting the
calamari or even some fishy Spanish tapas.
chance to review his latest 2012 Chardonnay. At the same time he had also put the feelers out to established writers and professionals for the
Stockist: Blackhearts & Sparrows, all locations.
opportunity to give his ego a boost or a battering. What a brave man!
BRASH HIGGINS Nero d’Avola 2013
Fortunately for Mr Dexter and Gram readers, I only have positive comments
McLaren Vale, South Australia
to add. The best and most telling attributes of this wine came from the
RRP $45.00
palate. It was the decent amount of graphitey and spiced almond oak that first caught my eye followed by a touch of minerals and butter. Despite the
Welcome to Brash Higgin’s world, where making a wine that stays on its
mouth coating buttery-ness, the palate is not overtly rich. It is downplayed
skins in beeswaxed-lined amphorae for 180 days using the southern Italian
by the lean fruit characters, clean acidity and almond meal phenolic finish
black grape Nero d’Avola is not an uncommon occurrence.
and ultimately displays great balance between fruit and wood. An ideal match for the Dexter Chardonnay would be a juicy Tandoori chicken thigh
This wine is an unusual bird, displaying complex aromas of bramble, kola
with a splash of mint yoghurt on the side.
nut, raspberries, cherries and a very distinct note of dried apricot. The last time I came across this particular perfume was when I fermented some
Stockists: Armadale Cellars, Armadale and Cloudwine Cellars, South
Tempranilllo on its skins for a good few months at Henschke winery. Ah,
Melbourne
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Tastebuds of Melbourne
Gloria Jeans
Plane Tree Café
Adelphi
The Mill
GPO Café
Purple Peanuts Japanese Café
Bluestone
Vialetto Restaurant
Imperial Hotel
Sheni's Curries
BISQ
Ito Noodle Café
Silk Road
Breadwell
HOSIER LANE
Izakaya Hachbeh
Strozzi
Brunetti (City Square)
Misty
Korova
Summit Café and Bar
Bull and Bear Tavern
Movida
Lanes Edge Bar
Switchboard Café
Bull Run
Langleys Café
The Brazilian Bean
Café 53
LA TROBE STREET
Mister Close
The Kitchen Cat
Café Rema
Basement @ 350 Latrobe
Movida Terrazza
The Sherlock Holmes
Cafenatics
Blaq Café Bar
Nando's
Treasury Restaurant and Bar
Cecconis
Café Nostimo
Nashi
Tutti In Piazza
Cherry & Twigs
Cafenatics on Latrobe
Ombra
Zuffa
Chin Chin
Club Chef
Pellegrini’s
Zuroona Café
City Library Café
Coffee Academy
Coda Bar Restaurant
Duke of Kent Hotel
Red Violin
Campari House Creperie Le Triskel
POP Restaurant and Bar
Romano's
DEGRAVES STREET
Coffee Eclipse
Frescatis Fine Foods
Royal Melbourne Hotel
Barber on Degraves
Crema Espresso Bar
Internet Café
Salida
Café Andiamo
Cumulus
Kanda Sushi Noodle Bar
Shuji Sushi
Degraves Espresso
Full Plate Café
Klik Food and Drink
Society Restaurant
Grill’d
Il Cubico Café
Latrobe Café
Spaghetti Tree
Little Cupcakes
KCL
Oriental Spoon
Spleen Bar
Sea Salt
Lustre Lounge
Spicy Noodle Café
Street Café
The Quarter
Nighcat Bar
William Angliss Bistro
The Bund
TOFWD Deli
Overdraft Café Papa Goose
LITTLE BOURKE STREET
DRIVER LANE
Roasted Coffee Bar
Bar Humbug
Penny Blue
Rosati
Brother Baba Budan
Superfino
Café 600 (Hotel Ibis)
The Mess Hall Tuscan Bar Grill Twenty Seconds Café
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Tropicana
CENTRE PLACE
ELIZABETH STREET
Swiss Club Victoria
Ishiya Stonegrill Dining
Issu
Café Scalletti
Tazio Birraria Pizzeria
Korean BBQ Buffet
Café Victoria
Terra Rossa
Kri Kri
CHAPEL STREET
Citi Noodle Café
The Trust
La Di Da
Traffik Foods
Coffea
Virginia Plain
Little B
Food Inc
Yak Bar
Longrain
CITY SQUARE
Hudsons Coffee
3 Below
Jasper Kitchen
FLINDERS STREET
Mrs Parmas
Lord of the Fries
Bertha Brown
+39 Pizza
COLLINS PLACE
Piazza Vittoria
Desi Dhaba
Punch Lane
Feeling Fruity
SNITZ
Kikoo Sushi
Scugnizzo
Roozervelts
Spiga
Kitaya
Shuji sushi
The Garden Café
La Stazione
SMXL Café
Mezzo Bar and Grill
Softbelly Bar
Troika Bar
China Bar
The St Kilda Rd Boulevarde Café
Sorry Grandma
York Café
Hawkers Café
Times Café
Sushi & Bon Apetit
Infinity Café Bar
The Apartment
LONSDALE STREET
Ishikai Japanese Café
SWANSTON STREET
Vine Café Bar
Aspro Ble
Izakaya Den (Basement)
Beer Deluxe
Babbo
James Squire Brewhouse
Café Chinotto
LITTLE COLLINS STREET
Baguette Club
King of Kings
Café L’Incontro
Basso
Baraki
Postal Hall
Café Mimo
Bridie O’Reilly's
Club Retro
Red Hummingbird
Citi Espresso
Brisq
Colonial Hotel
Seoul House
Claypot King
Cacao Fine Chocolates
Degani’s
Syn Bar
Crown Café Bakery
Café De Tuscany
Demi Tasse
Teppansan
Druids Café Bar
Caffe e Torto
Emerald Peacock
The Portland Hotel
Easy Way Tea
Champagne Lounge
Encore Café Bar
Two Fingers
Gigi Sushi Bar
Chestnut Exchange Café
Hikari Sushi
Won Ton House
Gogo Sushi
Council House 2
J Walk Café
Dikstein
Japanese Pub Shogun
Elevenses
Kenny's Bakery
Exchange Coffee
Latte Love Café
Famish’d
Le Traiteur
Fiddler Pub
Legals Café Bar
Gills Diner
Madame Kay's
Gordon's Café & Bar
Urban Deli
Green Press
Wheat Restaurant Bar
Guava Bean Hairy Canary
MELBOURNE PLACE
Hudson’s
Saint Peters Bar & Restaurant
In a Rush Espresso Irish Times Pub
MEYERS PLACE
Kitten Club
Lily Blacks
Mamma’s Boy
Loop
Mar Lourinha
Waiters Restaurant
Menzies Tavern Oriental Tea House
MORAY STREET
Ortigia Pizzeria
Water Rat Hotel
Pony Quists Coffee
NEWQUAY PROMENADE
Rare Steakhouse
Fish Bar
Saki Sushi Bar
Live Bait
Stellini Bar
Mecca Bar
Tengo Sushi Terrace Deli
QUEEN STREET Bellini (ANZ Building)
LITTLE LONSDALE STREET
Chaise Lounge
1000 Pound Bend
Degani
166 Espresso Bar
Mercat Cross Hotel
Angliss Restaurant
Michaelangelo
Café 111
Muleta's
Café 18
Nashi
Don Too
Nourish
Equiniox
Romano's
Gianni Luncheon
Segafredo
Giraffe Café
Speck
Horse Bazaar Il Vicoletto
RUSSELL PLACE
La La Land
Bar Ampere
Koukos Café Match
RUSSELL STREET
Modo Mio Café
Bean Room
Oddfellows Hotel
Blu Point Café
Rue Bebelons
Café Little Hut
Shop 7 Espresso
Chilli Café
Strike
Chill On Ice Lounge
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Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom SPENCER STREET Carron Tavern
Melbourne Town Hall Mr Tulk (State Library North)
Pensione Hotel
Nando's
SPRING STREET
Old Town
Appitizer Kubklam Café 201 City Wine Shop Elms Family Hotel Federici Café Hudson's Lime Café Bar
Nelayan Indonesian Oxford Scholar Soul Café Starbucks Sushi Sushi The Lounge The Order Three Degrees
The European
Time Out Café
ST KILDA ROAD
Your Thai Rice Noodle
606 Café Aroma on St Kilda Aromatic Espresso Balencea Bar Belgian Beer Café Bluestone Bite Café 409 Café 434 Café Allegra Café Deco Café Equesta Café News Café Promenade Café Safi Café Saporo Cafeteria Lounge CBD Café & Foodery Cinnamons Citro
Transport Young and Jackson Yoyogi TATTERSALLS LANE Section 8 (Chinatown) THE CAUSEWAY Grasshopper’s Feast WILLIAM STREET Illia Café and Bar La Stradda Café Metropolitan Hotel Nashi Slate The Mint WILLS STREET Operator25
Daily Coffee Gloria Jean’s Heaven Il Locale
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ISSUE 38
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PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
Izumi Krave Lime Café Metrop Café Movo Mod Oz Movo NGV Gallery Kitchen Purple Café The Blue Moose Café
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