GRAM Magazine Issue 75 // AUGUST 2017

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GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 75 FREE

PLEASE TAKE ME HOME


Showcasing SOME of Australia’s independent breweries

BonE NtheD Ihop GO

26 AUGUST 20 BREWERIES, 40 BEERS tickets on sale from 1 june

www.bendigobeer.com


CONTENTS FEATURE

MEET THE SUPPLIER

RECIPES

THE REVIVAL OF AUSTRALIAN

HAYLEY BLIEDEN OF THE

MUSHROOM PAPPARDELLE

BUSH TUCKER

AUSTRALIAN SUPERFOOD CO

WITH MOUNTAIN PEPPER LEAF

Lisa Holmen

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INTERVIEW

18

HOW TO

OFFALLY TASTY: Q&A Megan Osborne

Lauren Bruce

10

21 24

MIXED RENDANG AUNTIE SUSAN’S LEMON MYRTLE CAKE

HOW TO APPROACH UNUSUAL INGREDIENTS Peter Gunn

REGULARS

22

26

CONTRIBUTORS

4

NOW OPEN

6

AROUND THE TRAPS THINGS WE LOVE

7 28

REVIEWS

32

OUT AND ABOUT

34

THE DIARY

35

LAMB BREAST WITH VADOUVAN SAUCE

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ON THE COVER: BUNYA NUT The Bunya Nut (Araucaria bidwillii) is native to south-eastern Queensland especially the Bunya Mountains National Park. The bunya nut tree is a huge tree which bears a crop only after the tree itself is around 100 years old, and then it crops once every two or three years only. The crop itself consists of large cones up to the size of a very heavy soccer ball – 300 mm in length and 10 kg in weight. The cones contain the edible nuts (seeds) which are encased in a shell. The nut resembles a chestnut and is equally tasty, maturing in summer. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: keats@grammagazine.com.au

Jess Hourigan

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

EDITOR

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au

Lauren Bruce

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

www.grammagazine.com.au

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CONTRIBUTORS Using ingredients we’re unfamiliar with is the essence of

Oakridge Chef and Author of The Natural Cook Matt Stone;

creativity in cooking. Say you’ve never done pork belly

we delve into Australian bush tucker grown on Peppermint

before, and suddenly you’ve committed to cooking a

Ridge Farm and we talk to native foods supplier The

southeast Asian-style pork belly dinner for four with chilli

Natural Superfoods Co. We also hear from nationally and

jam and apple slaw. The task starts off intimidating, but isn’t

internationally renowned chefs about all things offal, and

that feeling of elation when you pull it off, along with your

IDES’ Peter Gunn gives us a run down on how to approach

expanded set of cooking skills and knowledge of different

all ingredients weird and wonderful with confidence and

flavour profiles all worth the initial terror? I certainly think

flair.

so. So take a deep breath, open your mind and prepare to have Given August is the pointy end of winter, there’s a limitation

all your preconceptions of food and cooking thrown out the

to what’s in season and things have to get imaginative in

window.

the kitchen. With that in mind, it’s a good month to set aside your misgivings and eat and cook differently.

Lauren Bruce EDITOR

This edition should help you out a bit when it comes to

lauren@grammagazine.com.au

stepping into the culinary unknown. We’ve got great recipes from chefs who aren’t afraid of unusual foods such as

DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee- obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com

LISA HOLMEN After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel. Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

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MEGAN OSBORNE DEPUTY EDITOR

Megan Osborne is the GRAM Magazine deputy editor and a food-obsessed writer. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.

TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_ bandwagon


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NOW OPEN TAIT LANE The man behind successful North Melbourne

establishments

Hot

Poppy, Oskar Pizza Bar and cocktail bar Joe Taylor, has now opened Tait Lane, a coffee and toastieladen

pop-up café attached to

Trennery Property’s display site in Melbourne’s West as a clever way to appeal to prospective off-theplan homebuyers.

The good ol’ Aussie pie – is there anything better? Chefs Matt Wilkinson (Pope Joan)

Serving coffee, brunch dishes and tasty toasties named after places in the local area, Tait Lane is a timely addition

to

West

THE PIE SHOP EAST BRUNSWICK

Melbourne’s

growing café scene.

and Steve Rogers (ex Circa, Movida) certainly don’t think so, opening pastry paradise The Pie Shop at 75 Nicholson Street, East Brunswick. The opening menu features savoury and sweet pies, small pies for the little ones, plus extras like hot chips, steaming dim sims, and the old faithful Mars Bar or Snickers to shove in your back pocket for the bike ride home.

The menu is inspired by Henderson’s eatery Hot Poppy, with toasties being the real crowd pleasers, and full of cheeses such as Fontina, Taleggio, Gruyere and Emmenthal encased between crunchy sourdough. There are plans to include a drinks menu inspired by Joe Taylor, to get the home-purchase-inducing dutch courage flowing. Tait Lane is one aspect of a stylish culture Trenerry is trying to cultivate for its future property development in the west. Other businesses looking to flesh out the development are dog walking outfit and instagram sensation Tom & Captain, who will have their first retail outlet within the complex, and art curator Anna Prifti has

There are five savoury pies on offer: The Bruce (spaghetti bolognese); The Allen (chunky beef and veg); The Shazza (caramelised onion, cauliflower and cheese); The Daryl (curried turkey); and The Clancy (pumpkin, chard and haloumi). There is also a Little Bruce pie (mini-sized spag bol) for the youngsters. Their sweet pies are irresistible in strawberry balsamic and Alphington Rooftop Honey and buttermilk. Sweet pies are sold by the slice and will change regularly depending on seasonal produce. The Allen, The Shazza and the two sweet pies also come in family size to take away.

created a local art gallery in the display space.

The Pie Shop uses produce and ingredients from a bunch of top local suppliers

Come for the toastie, the art and the dog treats; stay for the mortgage!

Hidden Souk, Alphington Rooftop Honey and Demeter biodynamic milk.

185 ROSSLYN STREET, WEST MELBOURNE

The Pie Shop is located at the East Brunswick spot formerly occupied by Pope Joan’s

www.westend.melbourne

including Warialda Belted Galloway Beef, Deutscher’s Turkey Farm, Pacdon Park, The

produce store, Hams & Bacon. 75 NICHOLSON STREET, EAST BRUNSWICK

THREE RED STRIPES

www.thepieshop.com.au

Three Red Stripes has launched their fourth

THE GARDEN CLUB

Vietnamese restaurant at Greensborough Plaza in the centre’s urban-style ‘Tables on the Green’ precinct. The South Vietnamese flag, a symbol of heritage and freedom for Vietnamese immigrants, inspired the restaurant’s name. “We are a family owned restaurant and we like to stay true to the original recipes. Our food is fast, fresh and authentic,” Owner Ken Luong says, proudly stating further that all produce is bought fresh each day. “From steaming bowls of rice noodle soups to warm you during a cold Melbourne winter, to healthy rice paper rolls to go; we have you covered.” In addition to offering all your traditional Vietnamese favourites like Pho, Vietnamese salads, and the restaurant’s signature dish; the popular spicy beef noodle or BBH (Bun Bo Hue), there are plenty of colourful traditional drinks that make you feel like you are in the heart of Hanoi or Saigon. The menu offers plenty of options for the entire family to enjoy – whether you’re after traditional Vietnamese or Southeast Asian with a more modern twist. 984 DONCASTER RD, DONCASTER EAST www.threeredstripes.com.au

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Michael Pham (Tiny, Phamily Kitchen) has teamed up with Adriana Hanna (Kennedy Nolan) and his builder from Phamily, Oliver Smith, to create French hedge maze/topiary garden-inspired café, Garden Club. With a fresh menu and a fab fit-out, Smith Street’s new establishment establishment is set to be a favourite with locals. Garden Club is a counter café serving Coffee Supreme (espresso and filter), with a menu separated into “Brunch”, “Lunch”, and “Salads”. Fresh seasonal produce salads such as the roasted eggplant with tofu, cucumber, sesame, buckwheat noodles and ginger miso dressing; sandwiches including the roast chicken with roasted garlic aioli, chives and cucumber and a delish fish finger sarnie with pickle mayo; and a classic brunch menu offering with eggs benny, hash, polenta chips, confit mushrooms, and stewed tomatoes with butter and basil. “Food & Foliage” themed, Garden Club has house plants and bouquets from Pomp and Splendour for sale, with plans for a monthly plant market in their massive courtyard out back of their Smith Street home. 366 SMITH STREET, COLLINGWOOD instagram.com/gardenclub3066/


AROUND THE TRAPS

TERROR TWIGHLIGHT OPENS IN COLLINGWOOD Named after the album by 90s band ‘Pavement’, Terror Twighlight is the fourth Melbourne venue opened by Wide Open Road Coffee Roasters co-founders Jono Hill and Hootan Heydari. TT has something of an unusual story. After launching and operating successful haunts Wide Open Road Café (Brunswick) and Heart Attack and Vine (Carlton), Hill and Heydari opened classy American-style diner Bedford Street in Collingwood.

GROCERY GIANTS BAN THE PLASTIC BAG

However, eight months in, Hill and Heydari realised the local clientele were a

Woolworths, Coles and Harris Farm Markets have finally committed to stop offering

healthy bunch – they weren’t looking to eat fried chicken and waffles every day.

customers single-use plastic bags by the end of 2018.

So they had to make a tough call. “We came [to the Collingwood space], we had some ideas… people liked [Bedford St], but not all of the elements were

Both Woolworths and Coles say they will stop offering the plastic bags within the

working,” Heydari says. “And as we found ourselves settled in here, we realised

next 12 months, whereas Harris Farm Markets will remove the bags from its stores by

the neighbourhood actually… wanna be healthy; they don’t want big meals every

January 1, 2018.

day.” Woolworths’ plastic bag ban will apply to the entire Woolworths Group network The Wide Open Road influence is definitely stronger in the new incarnation

including Woolworths supermarkets, convenience stores and Big W. Its Dan Murphy’s

of the space. But Terror Twilight aims not only to showcase Wide Open Road

and Cellarmasters alcohol stores are already plastic bag free.

coffee, it also seeks to offer Collingwood locals something beyond the usual cafe experience: wholesome meal options.

Woolworths will also be working to reduce plastic use across its entire supply chain, especially with regard to fruit and vegetables.

The predominantly healthy menu offers market bowls and broth-based dishes that have been designed to add nutritional value, alongside more substantial

Customers will have access to alternatives to the plastic bag, including being able

options including a breakfast sausage with a fried egg made using mince from

to purchase thicker, reusable plastic bags. Big W may provide these bags at no

Meatsmith, and a roast chicken sandwich with lemon mayonnaise.

extra cost.

In addition to the food, the drinks menu is carefully curated as well. With a

Coles has been working on removing plastic bags for some time, but have struggled

full specialty-coffee menu by Wide Open Road Coffee Roasters and a host

to let go due to the demand for the bags by customers. By the end of 2018, Coles

of delicious and virtuously healthy smoothies on offer, customers are able to

hopes to have the bags eradicated, but will continue to offer soft plastic recycling

‘upgrade’ their coffee and smoothies with custom-blended “nootropic (memory

services at 630 of its stores.

and cognitive-enhancing)” supplements and some natural health-boosters such as Chaga Mushrooms and Cordyceps.

Harris Farm Markets decided to ban the single use bags following its ‘Ban The Bag’ campaign. Having launched in April 2017 where it donated 5 cents to Clean Up

“With the character [of the fit out], with the menu, with the coffee, we brought in

Australia every time customers said no to plastic bags at the checkout. The outlet

a bit of the nootropics; the bowls and broths, a lot of greenery, a lot of freshness,

has offered customers the choice of cardboard fruit boxes as an alternative to plastic

health… all the things we ourselves want to have every day,” Heydari says.

bags for over ten years, but will continue to work towards an outright ban on singleuse plastic bags by the end of 2018.

The transformation of the Collingwood establishment paid off. “It felt like the right time to do it, so we thought, let’s just do it,” Heydari says. “It could’ve not

Governments in South Australia, the Northern Territory and the Australian Capital

worked, but it is working. And it feels good; it feels right.”

Territory already have a blanket ban on single-use plastic bags, and Queensland will be banning the bags in 2018. New South Wales, Victoria and Western Australia are

www.terrortwilight.com.au

yet to introduce similar legislation.

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Cooking

With Cheese

O

GF O

V


#thatsamorecheese



OFFALLY TASTY: Q&A WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE, STEVE MURRAY FOR NEPTUNE AND UNCLE

In a city like Melbourne, diners can find themselves rather spoilt for

The dish we really wanted to know more about, however, was the bone

choice. With numerous cuisine options, and accessibility to pretty

marrow tortellini. The menu at Neptune is pretty enticing, so while the

much any ingredient you can name, there’s not much you can’t get your

bone marrow tortellini didn’t jump off the list at us, our curiosity pulled us

hands on.

over the line—and boy are we glad it did!

Excluding import laws, and that whole business about cheese (all in the

Delicate parcels of pasta encase salty, melting morsels of marrow, sitting

name of biosecurity), hunting down a unique or not-local ingredient does

in a buttery sauce with a sharp citrus tang to prevent the dish from being

not involve pulling a Sherlock. Yuzu juice, tropical fruits in winter, jamon,

too oily and heavy. Perfect for these chilly winter nights, the tortellini’s

the (delicious) list goes on.

salty richness hits the spot, especially paired with a vino from Neptune’s carefully curated wine cellar.

But with such a big wide world, and so many cooks in the kitchen, it’s also increasingly hard to be surprised. Chefs are constantly innovating

We spoke to Head Chef at Neptune, Daniel Natoli to find out more about

(and thank goodness for that), whether it be reinventing a traditional

the process of making this dish, where the idea came from, and why

recipe, or embracing new flavour combinations. Just stabbing in the dark

bone marrow.

here, but it would be safe to assume that chefs and cooks are usually those among us with the most adventurous palates. We spoke to two

Can you tell us a bit about the process of sourcing the bone marrow and

Melbourne chefs about odd ingredients, unusual recipes, and who the

preparing it?

biggest fans of unique foods are. I like to go to Donatis on Lygon St to pick up the bones. The opera is loud New to Windsor is restaurant, wine and cocktail bar; Neptune. Nic

and the bones are cut length ways, you can tell they are fresh! The bones

Coulter and Simon Blacher (both behind Hanoi Hannah, Tokyo Tina and

need 24 hours in cold water to ‘purge’ them before they can be scooped

Saigon Sally) have joined forces with owners of San Telmo and Pastuso,

out and roasted over golden shallots, thyme, garlic and pepper.

David and Michel Parker to open the establishment, and the result of this combo is as amazing as you’d expect it to be.

Do you remember when you first ate bone marrow? If so, when and what was your reaction?

The food is Mediterranean-influenced; so think modern spins on a range of European dishes; from charcuterie and Saganaki, to Hangar steak

The first time I ate bone marrow was in Osso Bucco: slow-cooked beef

complete with frites. The poached quince with Chinotto jelly and burrata

shin with marrow in the centre. I was little and my dad would prepare it

granita is worth saving room for.

in the slow cooker. The richness of the tomato and the slow cooking time is everything! The meat is tender and the marrow is still inside the bone. I used to push it out all over the risotto – molto farking bene!

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Bone marrow is quite popular in the US and Europe. Do you think Australia

How do you convince guests to try new things?

is behind the times with appreciation for bone marrow? It’s a joy trying new things! Even if you don’t like them. If you don’t try, you I guess it depends what food environment you grew up in. Using more

will never know.

offal is great, if you know how to cook it! I wouldn’t say Australians aren’t behind it, just less adventurous to prepare a dish that might take more

***

than 45 minutes. When considering unusual dishes in Melbourne, offal is still up there as What inspired you to create this dish?

being something only the adventurous (or those in the industry) enjoy. We have to strongly dispute this, because really, what difference does it make

Any dish that has warmed me inside and uses offal. Dishes like the marrow

to how palatable the concept is, whether you’re eating a piece of the cow’s

on toast at St John in London, Lampredotto sandwiches in Firenze and

bottom or its tongue?

even Xiaolongbao in Hong Kong. In fact, we’re rather partial to a bit of cheeky ox tongue, and some ox What else goes into the dish to complement the bone marrow?

cheek while we’re there, too. So we were pretty much making like a cow jumping over the moon when visiting the second instalment of Uncle on

All our offcuts from the steak. We cook it low and slow with red wine, star

Collins Street, Melbourne. While taking after the first Uncle in St Kilda in

anise and cloves; a little butter sauce with shallots, capers, parsley and

some regards, this version has a slightly more European twist. Vietnamese

spiked with lemon zest; along with tiny crunches of puffed lemon rind. We

flavours still dominate, but when there’s a burrata and tomato salad on the

finally found a better use for the rinds than flavouring oil!

menu (albeit with house-made, aged fish sauce), we feel Uncle is speaking our language.

What is your favourite unusual ingredient to cook with? In the south of Italy, there was a pudding we made with pig’s blood called

Head Chef Dai Duong tells us about one of his favourite dishes on the

sanguinaccio dolce. I wouldn’t say it’s my favourite, but I’m seeing more

menu: the Tongue and Cheek, wrapped in bean curd skin with fragrant

and more Australian chefs experimenting with blood.

herbs and a spicy satay – a dish that we found incredibly tasty; so much so that we couldn’t put our forks down, and will now always order it when visiting this snazzy restaurant.

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Who did you have in mind when designing this dish? Who will most

What is unique about the flavour of ox tongue?

appreciate it? What makes tongue unique is the fact that it has a very soft texture. It’s When designing this dish or any dish, I always think about what I would

like eating a nice piece of steak. It melts in your mouth and if you grill

eat if I went out to a restaurant. Because I love offal, I always try and

tongue it tastes even better.

incorporate an [offal] dish into my menu. What is your favourite not-widely popular ingredient to cook with? Where do you get the ox tongue from, and how do you cook it? I would have to say bone marrow is one of my favourite ingredients to I have a great relationship with my meat supplier; they always source out

cook with. Now that it’s wintertime, I’m starting to play around with a new

the freshest and best quality for me. We get it in fresh, and the first process

dish for Uncle to incorporate bone marrow.

is to pickle the tongue for 24 hours, to give it a different flavour from the ox cheek. It also cuts through the richness of the dish.

How do you try to educate diners to try new things?

When did you first try ox tongue?

First thing is to try and make it bloody tasty as hell! Word of mouth… Take my pig’s ear banh mi: at first it wasn’t a big seller, but once a few people

I’ve eaten tongue from an early age. My parents always cooked with offal;

came back and ordered it every time, then told their friends, next minute

that’s probably why I love it so much. But I think the most memorable

it’s one of our most popular dishes!

tongue I’ve ever had was a tongue taco in Mexico. It has such a great texture and is so soft once you braise or grill it for a few hours.

NEPTUNE 212 High Street, Windsor

How is ox tongue mostly served?

(03) 9533 2827 www.neptune.melbourne

Ox tongue is mostly used in a noodle soup dish called mi wang or grilled

UNCLE

and served with lemon, salt, pepper and fresh chilli.

Level 1, 15 Collins St, Melbourne 03 9654 0829 www.unclerestaurants.com.au

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THE REVIVAL OF AUSTRALIAN BUSH TUCKER WORDS BY LISA HOLMEN

Forget matcha, raw cacao and goji berries, there’s an abundance of native

Indigenous ingredients are becoming so mainstream that many producers

superfoods and they are right here on our doorstep. Long used by Indigenous

and farms are now specialising in them to keep up with demand. This has

Australians, but largely neglected for many decades, native foods and good

the danger of becoming a sustainability issue in the long-term, however.

ol’ Australian bush tucker are now the hottest ingredients to hit Australian taste buds. These ingredients are changing the way people think about

Peppermint Ridge Farm in West Gippsland’s Tynong North is not a stranger

Australian cuisine demonstrating that we’re more than just a melting pot

to native foods, and has been successfully growing them for over 20

of multicultural food from our foreign shores. Native foods are our original

years. Their native food garden now features over 40 edible species. Julie

local produce, and they are found in our own backyard.

Weatherhead and her husband Anthony Hooper are passionate about producing quality bush food. Their aim is to educate people about their

From muntries and warrigal greens, to Kakadu plums and mountain

health benefits and encourage home cooks and gardeners to add a native

pepper, native foods are being embraced by some of Australia’s leading

foods section to their gardens so they can add these delicious and nutritious

restaurants. A new breed of Australian chefs are promoting the use of

plants to their diet every day whilst increasing the habitat levels of their

Indigenous ingredients to be more than just kangaroo and lemon myrtle.

gardens for birds and bees.

Native foods are also gaining popularity as a more mainstream ingredient on the international stage. At Brae in Birregurra, chef and owner, Dan

“Native foods are the Real Cornucopia – an abundance of food from plants

Hunter, has created a produce-driven menu (most of which is grown at

evolved to match Australian environmental conditions that will thrive in

his own property), which celebrates Indigenous ingredients in all their

Australian gardens and provide a staggering array of nutrients and medicinal

glory. Native ingredients are now being celebrated as a core flavour rather

benefits. They are the champions of sustainability. They will grow in range

than a sideshow.

of climate conditions, many have low water needs once established, they require minimal fertilisation and grow readily organically,” says Weatherhead.

Over in the Yarra Valley, executive chef at Oakridge Wines, Matt Stone, is equally passionate about native foods. Stone’s menu changes with

The Farm’s unique Taste Learn See experiences and cooking classes aim to

the seasons, and is adapted to create a selection of dishes based on the

inspire people about Australia’s unique native foods. Visitors can also enjoy

availability and quality of surrounding produce. A keen forager, Stone

their sumptuous bush food platters for lunch, or morning or afternoon tea,

regularly uses ingredients foraged in the surrounding Yarra Valley and

including lemon myrtle muffins and strawberry gum jam drops.

stresses the importance of sustainable foraging. Native ingredients including wattleseed, muntries, cinnamon myrtle, riberry and sunrise lime are just

Here are some of the most popular Australian native foods right now:

some of the foods which grace the menu, a perfect substitute to European and other introduced ingredients. Think kangaroo finished with native

KAKADU PLUM POWDER

greens and sandalwood nuts, or an 864 pumpkin paired with macadamia,

Kakadu Plum Powder is one of Australia’s superfoods that is 100% wild,

mountain pepper and garlic.

harvested by Indigenous Australians. As well as being packed with antioxidants, the Kakadu plum is known to have the highest source of natural

But it’s not just Victoria’s regional restaurants which are enjoying the native

Vitamin C of any plant in the world, up to 100 times more than oranges.

food resurgence. One of Melbourne’s most popular brunch spots, Street

Best enjoyed in smoothies, smoothie bowls, salads, and sprinkled on top of

Talk Espresso, heroes Kakadu Plum Powder on their ‘Feelin Fruity Granola’,

breakfast bowls, it is one of the best ways to add Vitamin C to your body in

while Charcoal Lane in Fitzroy offers seasonally inspired dishes infused with

a pure, natural and raw form, while also making a positive social impact at

native ingredients like pan seared emu fillet with beetroot and lemon myrtle

the same time.

risotto, and paperbark-wrapped seasonal vegetables with truffle oil.

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FINGER LIMES

Where you can try Australian native foods:

This elongated, cylindrical rainforest fruit (grown in Queensland and Northern New South Wales) contains juice similar to a lime and has a very

Peppermint Ridge Farm

intense citrus flavour. Unlike limes, finger limes are filled with tiny juicy

540 Tynong N Rd, Tynong VIC 3813

beads (almost resembling caviar), which literally pop with flavour. This fruit

(03) 5942 8580

was once a valuable source of food and medicine for Aboriginal people

peppermintridgefarm.com.au

(often used as an antiseptic) and is rich in folate, potassium and vitamin e. Brae Finger limes are often used in jams, chutneys, marmalades and sauces and

4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra VIC 3242

are also extremely popular as a garnish, for example, on a kingfish ceviche.

(03) 5236 2226

They are now one of the most sought after ingredients in top restaurants

braerestaurant.com

around the world. Oakridge Wines WATTLESEED

864 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream VIC 3770

The wattle flower is a well-known emblem of Australia, and has been a

(03) 9738 9900

largely unsung hero of the food industry. It has a nutty, savoury flavour

oakridgewines.com.au

profile. Wattleseed has a number of health benefits since it contains calcium, iron, zinc and potassium. It is most commonly roasted and ground (similar

Street Talk Espresso

to coffee) before it’s used in cooking. Wattleseed is a versatile ingredient in

710 High St, Armadale VIC 3143

the kitchen and can be used in cakes, sauces and even ice cream. Note that

(03) 9509 9687

not all acacias are suitable for consumption.

www.streettalkcafe.com.au

QUANDONG

Charcoal Lane

A staple of the Indigenous diet, quandongs are a crimson-bright fruit, which

136 Gertrude St, Fitzroy VIC 3065

can be eaten raw or dried. Quandongs are often referred to as a “native

(03) 9418 3400

peach.” They have a sweet and slightly salty taste. They also have a range of

charcoallane.com.au

health benefits since they are high in vitamin c, vitamin e, folate, magnesium, zinc and calcium. They are often used to make jam or chutneys or in desserts. MOUNTAIN PEPPER The mountain pepper is a native species found in the open forest or temperate rainforest of Tasmania, Victoria and southeast New South Wales. Mountain pepper was historically used for its antiseptic properties and was also a popular food preservative and flavour enhancer. Since it is high in antioxidants, mountain pepper is bursting with health benefits. It has an aromatic and spicy flavour and is commonly used as a marinade for seasoning, added to dukkah and other dips. Both the mountain pepper leaf and its berries can be used for cooking. The fruit may be used fresh or dried, and often as an alternative to pepper.

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/ ricepaprsistr #useyourhands 17


Meet the Supplier:

HAYLEY BLIEDEN OF THE AUSTRALIAN SUPERFOOD CO

Hayley Blieden has created an extraordinary business that taps into the most authentic Australian fare available – our own superfoods. A dietitian with an MBA, Blieden has set about bringing Australian native superfoods into kitchens around the country and the world with her company, The Australian Superfood Co.

After tapping into a unique market that is relatively new territory, Blieden’s

The passion for native food was ignited on a trip to Alice Springs and

raison d’etre is to increase awareness, accessibility and affordability of our

Uluru, where Blieden tasted “bush tucker” for the first time. Blieden noticed

Native ingredients, and in turn, increase demand in order to encourage

with excitement that these native foods, which had sustained Indigenous

their cultivation.

Australians for over 50,000 years in some of the harshest climates in the world, had distinctive and intoxicating flavours. “I knew that I wanted to

“I have always been passionate about nutrition and business. I knew I didn’t

share these foods and flavours with Australia and the world,” Blieden says.

want to follow the traditional dietitian’s path, choosing instead to focus on

Thus the concept of Australian Superfood Co was born.

designing foods that enhance the way people feel and perform,” Blieden says. “A growing global interest in health and foreign superfoods ignited

Blieden’s experience in the Northern Territory drove her to find out more

my curiosity about native Australian superfoods, so I began researching

about the nutritional content and current farming practices of Australian

what our country has to offer.”

native food, and after visiting remote communities in the region, Blieden discovered a pattern in their recurring health issues borne out of inadequate

18


consumption of fresh food. Community elders spoke to her about their

taste the bars and see how the Kakadu plum their families picked is now

poor diet; they now consumed mainly cheap, processed fast food instead

being incorporated into packaged food products.

of relying on their traditional diet, which featured fresh native foods. “I was thrilled to discover that Australian bush tucker has superfood nutritional

“We’re trying to show the youth in these communities the different

status, which made me realise Indigenous communities could benefit from

opportunities that they have by supplying these ingredients,” Blieden says.

collecting and cultivating bush tucker,” Blieden says.

“These range from hospitality and supplying restaurants and cafes with ingredients to showing them the manufacturing process of our bars and

As a result, the Australian Superfood Co’s deeper agenda is to enhance

granolas.”

the respect for Australia’s Indigenous culture, and promote the growth and development of Indigenous communities. The company does a lot of work

Blieden’s company also gives back annual donations to different indigenous

with these communities, from sourcing ingredients to contributing back to

communities – last year, for example, they funded the repainting of houses in

the community financially.

Jabiru in the Northern Territory.

The company has a multi-faceted approach to this work, including sourcing

Blieden says the partnerships between Indigenous communities and the

as much produce as possible from indigenous communities around Australia

Australian Superfood Co. so far have been successful.

to encourage them to continue sourcing and growing the industry. “We currently source and sell wild harvested wattle seed and Kakadu plum,

“We are having regular conversations [with indigenous communities]

which are 100% sourced through Indigenous communities,” Blieden says.

regarding increasing supply and furthering research on the fruits to debunk

“By doing this, we not only provide an income stream, but we also enable

common misconceptions that are circulating. We regard our work as a

these communities a platform to tell their stories of how they currently

partnership, which is ongoing and mutually beneficial,” Blieden says.

and historically used native Australian produce as a source a nutrition and medicine.”

The day-to-day work of Australian Superfood Co is much like any successful supplier. The distribution is broad with a varied customer base, from Attica

A big part of this project is engaging young indigenous people in the work,

to Dinner by Heston, to Perth fine-diner Wildflower. “With a growing interest

Blieden says. Recently, teenagers from Wadeye to Melbourne were brought

in these native foods, we’re seeing that more and more restaurants are

in to see the first production run of the bars. They were the first people to

interested in using our native Australian ingredients throughout their menus,” Blieden says.

19


The company has also made the natural progression into the café scene,

about their flavours, they’re really easy to incorporate into your daily life

health food stores, greengrocers and independent supermarkets, and they

and home cooking,” Blieden says, further stating that that’s why they have

also supply ingredients to other brands who incorporate them into their

such a strong recipe archive on their website. “It’s all about educating our

own products from gin, to juice, to their own granolas and even chocolate.

customers and the public,” she says.

Beyond Australia, Blieden says there’s a strong international appetite for

“This year, our ingredients have appeared a lot on Masterchef, so education

these native Australian foods. “We’re really proud to be exporting our

around our ingredients is increasing. Hopefully soon, cooks will be

products to [customers in] Japan, Korea, U.K, Singapore and United States

substituting riberry for cloves and finger lime for lemon!”

who love seeing what Australia has to offer,” Blieden says. Blieden has got to taste a lot of the food created by chefs using her products, Blieden says it’s quite a thrill to learn what chefs create using the

exclaiming that she continues to be amazed by the tasty combinations

ingredients the company supplies. “Chefs are always looking for new and

people in the industry come up with. “We can’t get enough of the Riberry

unusual ingredients to cook with... something to give them that edge and

Pink Gin cocktail from Dinner by Heston Blumenthal,” Blieden says. “We

to challenge them,” she says. “We never know what they are going to be

also love the Dry Aged Wagin Duck Breast with sweet Quandong from

creating when they purchase our ingredients but we are always amazed at

Wildflower (or their Wood Grilled Arkady Lamb with Sheep’s Curd and

how inventive and authentic their dishes end up being!”

Native herbs).”

Blieden says she sees the native superfoods she supplies as rare and

Blieden says she also never ceases to be delighted by the discovery of how

unique rather than unusual.

these native ingredients can be used in her own cooking. “At Australian Superfood Co, we are completely obsessed with Mountain Pepper Leaf

“People are excited about them and are always amazed when hearing

and love using it in our home-cooked mushroom pastas, particularly

about their exceptionally high nutritional value – that’s why we love them

Pappardelle. It really spices things up and gives it an earthy flavour.”

so much,” Blieden says. “A good example is the Kakadu Plum, which has the highest source of Vitamin C of any fruit in the world. This ingredient

www.austsuperfoods.com.au

that has been sitting in our backyard for tens of thousands of years.” Try Blieden’s Mushroom Pappardelle With Mountain Pepper Leaf recipe for Blieden says people shouldn’t be afraid to use these ingredients just because they’re unfamiliar with them at first. “Once you try them and learn

20

yourself!


MUSHROOM PAPPARDELLE WITH MOUNTAIN PEPPER LEAF This is a delicious vegetarian pasta that includes the native Australian herb Mountain Pepper Leaf, which has a spicy, earthy avour and an aroma of pesto. Best enjoyed with a glass of red wine!

INGREDIENTS

2. Over medium high heat, melt 60g of butter in a large frying pan. Add

10g dried porcini mushrooms

onion, and fry for a few minutes until golden. Add the porcini and Swiss

100g unsalted butter

browns and fry gently for 2-3 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and

1 white onion, diced

Mountain Bush Pepper and cook for another 2 minutes until softened.

500g Swiss brown mushrooms, thickly sliced 1 tbsp Mountain Bush Pepper

3. Add vinegar to deglaze any mushrooms or onions that may be sticking

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

to the bottom of the pan.

1 tbsp balsamic or red wine vinegar 1kg fresh pappardelle

4. Cook pasta in a medium size pot of boiling salted water according to

1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

packet instructions. Drain and add the pasta to the pan of mushrooms

Grated parmesan, to serve

along with 1/3 cup (80ml) of the mushroom liquid and the remaining

1/2 cup fresh sage, to serve

butter.

METHOD

5. Once the butter has melted, add the parsley and toss to combine.

1. Soak dried porcini in boiling water for 10 minutes. Squeeze out and

Season with salt to taste, then divide among bowls and sprinkle

reserve soaking liquid, then slice the mushrooms. Set mushrooms and

parmesan cheese on top and torn sage.

soaking liquid aside. This recipe was originally published on The Australian Superfood Co Website on January 16, 2017.

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HOW TO APPROACH UNUSUAL INGREDIENTS Owner and Chef at IDES Peter Gunn is known for testing the boundaries of what food can be. Here, he shares how he and his staff at IDES approach new ingredients. The funny thing is, I don’t find what we do at Ides overly experimental. What

between myself and [Chef Zach Furst], and whoever else is around and

I set out to do is just be constantly motivated and stimulated, and have that

gives a f**k. A lot of the time, it can start off by somebody saying oh, this is

[attitude] amongst my core team. And one way to [prevent] the mundane

really fatty and could work well with something acidic.

mentality amongst staff is to introduce something new, constantly. EXERCISE YOUR CREATIVITY – THEN MAKE A RECORD OF IT In the Ides kitchen, this is how we treat these new and exciting ingredients:

Part of my job now [at Ides] is to just mess around with whatever we’ve got

we look for something, we find something, we mess around with it, we create

going on, make a sauce or something. So if I come up with something that

something with it, then we get bored of it and try and find something else.

has legs, then we store the recipe on the iPad. In all honesty, there’s no real

In the beginning at Ides, I just started changing a dish every other day, or

creative session that goes into it… [But] we’ve got a rule in the Ides kitchen:

two dishes… then that started getting to a point where it actually got a

If we make anything more than twice, we jot down the recipe, or take a

bit challenging. So we put a bit of structure into that, changing one dish

photo of it, so it’s just there.

on the menu every two weeks, giving us a good amount of time to find an ingredient, take note of that ingredient, and then start working that

It’s really just lots of playing/messing around. I mean, my goal is not, “Oh,

ingredient into a dish. Today, that’s the structure we use to target something

I’ve got to come up with something really different.” I think you can put all

new, or something that we’re unfamiliar with.

sorts of pressure on yourself.

TASTE IT FOR YOURSELF

But with creativity, you’ve gotta work on it consistently, constantly. It’s just

If it’s a piece of fruit, or if it’s a meat product, we always just start by eating

like going to the gym [if] you want to get big muscles. I don’t think you can

it raw. Even if it’s a truffle mustard from somewhere, we’ll start by trying

be creative just by sitting down with a pen and a notepad all day every day.

it [ourselves], first and foremost. Then, it’s always really a conversation

It’s trial and error.

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At Ides, we stretch a few creative muscles. And when people get to know that’s what you do… it does work to our advantage because it helps us see lots of small batch items. That’s also hard because ideally, these days, we want to come up with something, establish it into a rock solid dish, and then let it run its course on the menu for at least two months. That’s what sparked our “sample table”, where we do a four course menu on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. That helps us off load some of these smaller products and gives us a larger range, and actually incorporates and forces the staff to contribute ideas to the creative side of the restaurant, which is really fun, and works. THE MOST UNUSUAL INGREDIENT GUNN HAS EVER USED The most unusual thing I’ve used before was at Attica, and it was the flesh from a native Boab tree. We got the flesh off it, the bark, which we ground up into a powder, and we made a sort of wattleseed sauce and then thickened it with this Boab tree flesh. It was really strange and it sounds strange, but it was really tasty. It almost acted like cornflour; it was just like a creamy sauce. THE BEST DISHES COME FROM MULTIPLE F**K UPS

The other side of that is you can overwork things to the point of ridiculousness.

For me, lots of things stem out of multiple f**k ups and things that go wrong.

A piece of grilled fish with a wedge of lemon might be better than some

We’ve served [many] unique dishes that have sparked off of something

grilled lemon with a fish sauce.

that’s been a bit of an error. Because that’s when you know you’re onto something new. The sauce is made by something you wouldn’t normally do

At Ides nowadays, we basically have two weeks to turn [a new ingredient]

because you’ve never done it before.

into a dish. We try and change one dish every two weeks. And that just gives us a bit more time to come up with something great.

Don’t get me wrong, some experiments don’t work. We’ve served some s**t dishes before, too. And that becomes part of the process as well. Like, “Well

These days, I’m a lot more comfortable within myself; I’m a lot more

this definitely has legs, but we need to tweak it.”

comfortable with my abilities, and my restaurant and surroundings. I can work on something for three or four days, even a week, and get close to

You know I’m happy to mess up ten times to create something, as opposed

putting it on the menu, and then go, “Oh scratch that, let’s start again”. I’m a

to doing something perfectly. Whether it’s curing meat to even just pickling

lot more comfortable with that these days. Before, I used to be like, “Oh no,

a little vegetable. Just enjoy the process, big or small. The day I stop enjoying

I’m going to show signs of weakness if I don’t [send] this out.” Today, things

what I do, I don’t know if I could do it anymore.

on the Ides menu are on there because I believe they’re good.

KEEP IT SIMPLE AND TAKE YOUR TIME

TRUST YOUR PALATE TO ACHIEVE BALANCE

I think the danger of the younger cooks, they’re like, “Oh, we’ve only got a

The old sweet, sour, salty [balance rule] is true. If you’ve got something fatty,

certain amount of time to do this,” and they’ll just do it and be really happy

you want something not so fatty. You don’t want fat on fat on fat on fat.

with what they came up with. But they haven’t given it the time to taste it through.

At Ides, I reckon the best, most random combination that we’ve put together most recently has been mandarins, which are in season now, pressed together in a honey vinegar that had mandarin oil through it. Then we made an XO sauce, and we scooped some fresh honeycomb on it. So compressed mandarins, XO sauce and honeycomb. We served it as a savoury course, as a starter. The mandarins are super juicy, super tart. The XO sauce was really prawn-y, and honeycomb you can use in both sweet and savoury applications. So we just did it. I can’t even remember how. It was like, “Mandarins are good. We’ve got all this XO sauce, and let’s just use the last of that honeycomb we’ve got.” HOW TO APPROACH COOKING WITH AN UNFAMILIAR INGREDIENT: Just do it. Literally, just do it.

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RECIPE: MIXED RENDANG RECIPE BY DATO FAZLEY YAAKOB

Chef Dato Fazley Yaakob is a man of many talents. Seriously. His story doesn’t begin or end with food. As well as a businessman, motivational speaker and TV host, Yaakob is a popular singer in Malaysia, recording several albums before becoming a contestant on Malaysia’s Celebrity Masterchef – and winning. Not quite content to enter the industry from there, Yaakob sought to deepen his understanding of food and cooking at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. His fusion of French and Malaysian cooking now defines his food at his restaurant, SukaSucre Bistro in Kuala Lumpur. Yaakob shared with us his rendang recipe, which he presented to Australian Cordon Bleu students earlier this year.

24


Malaysia’s traditional way of preparing ingredients and cooking them are

in Malaysia for additional flavour. Offal in particular is a deeply flavourful

very similar to the French technique – from the way the ingredients are cut,

addition to the standard rendang recipe, and Negeri Sembilan’s rendang is

to the way they are marinated and cooked. The only major differences are

famous for its unique flavour and dark color.

the herbs and aromatics used for the recipes, due to cultural, geological and Once cooked, offal absorbs all the aromatics and spices in a dish, and it adds

historical differences.

a wholesome character to a well-cooked rendang. It can be an acquired I find it very exciting to combine French flavours and Malaysian ingredients.

taste to many, but it is certainly delicious to me!

Historically, the two cuisines are worlds apart; but the culinary science There’s a beautiful Malay saying that goes, “Tak kenal maka tak cinta”,

behind each has plenty of common ground.

which is translated as, “To know is to love”. So to my adventurous Australian In Negeri Sembilan where I was born and raised (about an hour away from

readers, give it a try! You really don’t know what you’re missing until you

Kuala Lumpur), the older generation of cooks taught us not to waste any

have tried it!

edible parts of a protein; whether it’s cow, sheep, or even seafood. [The lesser used parts of an animal in western cooking] will always be used

MIXED RENDANG INGREDIENTS

METHOD

Spices:

250g red onions (halved)

Blend half of the red onions, garlic, bird’s-

Add the tamarind. Bring to a boil, then add

5 star anise

7 cloves garlic

eye chillies, 3 stalks of lemongrass (sliced)

the coconut milk little by little.

2 cinammon sticks

2.5kg coconut milk

and galangal. Add the rendang spices and

5 cloves

1⁄2 cup ground chilli

ground chili to the blended ingredients. Slice

Add the remaining two stalks of lemongrass,

2 tbsp rendang spices

20 bird’s-eye chillies

the remaining red onions.

kerisik, salt and sugar. Stir ingredients until

1 tbsp turmeric

2 tbsp tamarind flesh,

4 cm galangal

mixed with 1⁄2 cup water

Heat the oil, then fry the cinnamon, star

5 stalks lemongrass

1 cup grated, toasted and

anise and cloves until fragrant. Then, add the

Serve with lemang (Malay glutinous rice),

ground coconut (kerisik)

sliced onion and blended ingredients.

ketupat (Malay compressed rice) or steamed

250g beef liver

Salt to taste

250g spleen

Sugar

250g beef

the oil separates and gravy dries.

rice. Put the beef in first and cook until tender. Then, add the liver and spleen.

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RECIPE: AUNTIE SUSAN’S LEMON MYRTLE CAKE RECIPE FROM THE NATURAL COOK BY MATT STONE, PUBLISHED BY MURDOCH BOOKS 2016

For as long as I can remember, my Auntie Susan has baked the most amazing cakes. For years, I tried to get her to give me a book with all her recipes. Though I’m still waiting for that book, she shares my passion for native foods and has developed this recipe for me. It’s a super simple cake packed with flavour.

INGREDIENTS

Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter

155 g (5. oz/1 cup) macadamia nuts

until smooth.

180 g (6. oz) butter 150 g (5. oz) sugar

Add the sugar and cream the two ingredients for 5 minutes, or until light

2 eggs, at room temperature

and fluffy. Add 1 egg at a time, making sure the previous one is incorporated

2 teaspoons baking powder

before adding the next. Beat for a further 5 minutes.

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) 300 g (10. oz/2 cups) freshly milled flour

In a food processor, blitz the macadamia nuts to form a rough breadcrumb

185 ml (6 fl oz/. cup) buttermilk

consistency. Add the remaining ingredients, except the edible flowers, and

2 teaspoons dried lemon myrtle

the nuts to the butter mixture and beat until smooth. Pour into the cake tin

edible flowers, to decorate (optional)

and bake for 40–45 minutes, or until lightly golden. Gently press on the top of the cake – if it bounces back, it’s ready. Remove from the oven and let it

ICING

cool for 10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack to cool further.

3 egg whites 210 g (7. oz) caster (superfine) sugar

To make the icing, fill a medium saucepan one-third full of water and place

210 g (7. oz) butter

over medium heat. Bring to a light simmer. Put the egg whites and sugar

2 teaspoons dried lemon myrtle

into a stainless steel bowl. Using a whisk, briefly mix until the sugar has been incorporated. Place the bowl over the simmering water to create a double

NOTE: Most supermarkets stock lemon myrtle, and it’s a cinch to order

boiler and, stirring constantly, heat the mixture until the sugar has dissolved.

online. You can also use lemon myrtle teabags – just remove the leaves from the bag and grind them to a fine consistency. This icing can be used for any

Using an electric mixer or hand-held electric beaters, whisk the egg mixture

cake or muffin. Substitute lemon myrtle with any flavour you like.

at high speed for 10–12 minutes; it will become white, glossy and thick. Keep whisking until the mixture is cool.

METHOD Preheat the oven to 160˚C (320˚F). Grease a 20 cm (8 in) round cake tin and

Switch to a paddle attachment if you have one, then mix on medium speed,

line the base and side with baking paper.

adding the butter in four batches. Beat until thick and creamy, then add the lemon myrtle and stir until combined. Spatula onto the cake with enthusiasm

Spread the macadamia nuts evenly on a baking tray and roast for 12 minutes,

and decorate with edible flowers, if using.

or until golden brown, then set aside to cool. Turn the oven up to 170˚C (340˚F).

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THINGS WE LOVE

23 DEGREES COFFEE

SPOIL YOUR DAD WITH THAT’S AMORE CHEESE

Every so often you come across a business and its people so committed to their

Celebrate Father’s Day and gift one of our ‘I Love Mozzarella’ cheese

cause, it makes you want to stand up, move to Columbia, and shout from the

boards! This board is a unique way to display your cheese selection and

coffee-growing mountain tops.

enjoy freshly made mozzarella.

23 Degrees is the latest specialty coffee roaster to hit the Melbourne coffee

Our Father’s Day package includes a custom made wooden board and two

scene, with the dynamic women behind the brand, Tina Wendel and Anne

artisan cheeses from our That’s Amore preselected range.

Cooper, focusing on bringing women into the forefront of coffee. Available for purchase at our retail outlet, open seven days a week. “We use the power of business to further social and environmental impact, and importantly give women in every step in the coffee chain a helping hand,”

THAT’S AMORE CHEESE

Wendel says. Wendel has crafted a team and process that is second to none

66 Latitude Boulevard, Thomastown VIC 3074

on quality and traceability, and her entrepreneurial spirit runs deep into the

03 9463 4222

philosophy of this new concept.

www.thatsamorecheese.com.au

“I have always been inspired by the vision and courage of entrepreneurs in

FERMENT FOR GOOD: SHARON FLYNN

Australia. Immersing myself into Melbourne’s amazing coffee culture, I just knew it was the right place, venture and time to pluck up the courage and give it a damn good go!”

Ferment for Good is a guide to discovering the joys of fermentation in its myriad

Wendel then recruited the award winning coffee-roasting consultant Anne

variations. One-time English teacher Sharon

Cooper. A certified Q-Grader and Judge, member of the SCA Roasters Guild

Flynn has now made it her life’s work to learn

Executive Council, Judge for the Cup of Excellence and current Head Judge of

and share all there is to know about this most

the Golden Bean, Cooper was the right person for the job.

ancient of practices.

23 Degrees is not something done on a whim; this is a carefully crafted model

Alongside a how-to guide on the basics (why do it; what you need; and

that focuses on quality and flavour in a special way that empowers women

what you’ll get), Flynn’s book offers sections on wild fermented vegetables

across the chain. The coffee is sourced from First Crop green bean importer

(including sauerkraut, kimchi and brine ferments); drinks (water kefir,

founder Celina Lazaru, who gets the coffee from Women Coffee Growers

kombucha, Jun tea, pineapple wine, mead); milk and dairy (including

Project in Columbia – a coffee-farming initiative for women who have survived

yoghurt and milk kefir), condiments and breads (such as mustard, spreads,

wars and strife in the country.

dosa and injera); and Japanese ferments (including miso and tamari, soy sauce, sake kasu and pickled ginger).

This coffee is currently on limited run for Three Thousand Thieves members until August 7th, but check out their website to order from them directly.

Lovingly illustrated and featuring informative photos, Ferment for Good is a beautiful, carefully curated collection to introduce you to the world of

23degrees.com.au

fermentation. hardiegrant.com

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RECIPE: LAMB BREAST WITH VADOUVAN SAUCE RECIPE BY SAM GANT FROM POT AND PAN

“A lot of people are using lamb ribs now, however there can be a lot of waste. To leave the breast on means you avoid waste, and allow the flavours to be released from the fat and bone into the dish.” SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS

METHOD

2kg lamb breast (ribs attached)

For the marinade, blitz the oregano, olive oil, garlic and sea salt for the

Half bunch oregano

marinade. Baste all over the lamb.

2 tbsp olive oil 4 garlic cloves

In a metal roasting dish with high sides, place lamb in the oven at 150C for

3 pinches sea salt

one hour. Pour 10cm of water into the pan and turn the temperature down to 110C, slow cooking for a further three or four hours (depending on your

VADOUVAN SAUCE

oven). Check the lamb after three hours, when the meat should almost be

1/8 tsp fenugreek (be careful with portion here as very bitter)

falling off bone.

Pinch brown mustard seeds (as above) 1 dried curry leaf

Whilst the lamb is cooking, prepare the sauce: sauté the garlic and shallots

2 shallots

with olive oil and half the butter until soft. Slightly temper spices in a pan on

3 cloves garlic

the stove on a very low heat until fragrant (note: there is a short window of

Pinch curry powder

time between a fragrant and burnt spice mix!) then ground them together

1/8 tsp cumin seeds

using a mortar and pestle, then blitz ground spice mix in a blender with

Pinch ground cardamom

the garlic and shallot mixture. In a small saucepan, cook remaining butter

Pinch turmeric

until it turns a golden brown colour. Mix through the spice/shallot mixture.

Pinch chilli flakes 100g butter

Serve lamb with Greek yoghurt on the base of plate, placing the lamb on

2 tbsp olive oil

top. Finish by spooning the Vadouvan sauce over the top of the lamb.

2 cloves 1/4 whole nutmeg, grated Salt and pepper, to taste

31


REVIEWS WIDE OPEN ROAD COFFEE - SHADY LANE BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

Opening a new cafe is never easy. Opening a

appearing at other cafes wanting to be part of the

new cafe in the middle of winter is even harder.

Wide Open Road story.

So while everyone was pretty much getting ready to hibernate for the colder months, Ryan Cassidy

Wide Open Road’s “what you see is what you get”

was putting the finishing touches on his new place

mentality is all about transparency from crop to

Poke the Bear in Northcote. Cassidy’s father flew

cup, passing on all information about the coffee

over from Perth to help him set up, spending 12

and where it’s from to the customer. They also

hour days converting the space to reflect Ryan’s

encourage customers to stop by to see what they

love of Bali using vibrant colours and textures, but

do, to meet the roasters and ask any questions

most importantly, creating a culture of good food,

they may have about the coffee.

coffee and service. Ryan had been friends with Hill for over ten years,

Follow the Wide Open Road, take a left, then a right and pay a visit to Shady Lane at a cafe near you: Poke the Bear - 2A Mitchell St, Northcote Gellibrand - 16 Gellibrand Crescent, Reservoir Jethro - 385 Burnley St, Richmond Forage - 157 Boronia Rd, Boronia Marci Kitchen - 844 Glenferrie Rd, Hawthorn Dikstein’s Corner Bar - 433 Little Collins St, CBD

Cassidy has been in the Melbourne cafe scene for

a friendship kindled around the time the third

many years, starting at Leroy in St Kilda before

wave of boutique coffee roasters hit Melbourne.

heading around the corner to Galleon, then running

Everyone became obsessed with a lighter-roasted,

Truman in Albert Park and Veruca Salt in Elwood.

fruity style and Ryan, who preferred his coffee

This is his very first venture on his own and a

more rich and robust with chocolatey caramel

natural progression for someone like Cassidy, with

notes, became involved with the creation of Wide

an old school approach to hospitality who has

Open Road’s Shady Lane blend, which he now

always wanted to look after his customers.

uses at Poke The Bear.

Similarly wanting to take the next step and start a

Beans from Indonesia, Tanzania and Colombia

new business were Jono Hill and Hootan Heydari,

have been selected especially, resulting in a dark

when they opened Wide Open Road Coffee back

cherry/chocolate profile and a bold, sweet cup

in 2009. With extensive experience in the industry,

with mild acidity that’s great with milk (or milk

they had been operating their cafe A Minor Place in

substitutes). This is perfect for Ryan’s clientele,

Brunswick since 2004; but being in control of their

who don’t drink a lot of black coffee – however, the

coffee was the missing piece of the puzzle and at

blend works well as an espresso and as a piccolo

that time in Melbourne, they believed there was

as well.

room for another coffee brand. They established the on-site café which serves their coffee as well

www.wideopenroad.com.au

as awesome food, and slowly their coffee started

roastery@wideopenroadcoffee.com.au

QUEALY – AMPHORA FRIULANO WORDS LAUREN BRUCE For those that are curious about the now very fashionable

with a floral aroma that sits alongside the scent of fresh

skin contact white wines but are a little tentative to dip

almonds. The flavours are citrusy and surprisingly soft on

their toe into the pond, Quealy’s Amphora Friulano is a

the palate given the hue of the wine suggests a stronger

nice gateway drop.

flavour.

An Italian varietal, the Quealy family were the first to plant

All is not what it seems with Quealy wines – in fact, you’ll

the friulano grape in Australia in 2004, demonstrating

find they’re more brilliant than you could have imagined.

their well-documented pioneering spirit reflected in the

The Amphora Friulano is no exception.

rest of their dynamic and creative offering. The variety has been overlooked by many in the industry, as the variety suits skin contact vinification, which is a fairly new

Quealy – Amphora Friulano (extremely well-priced)

winemaking technique in Australia.

RRP: $25 www.quealy.com.au

In the case of the Friulano, the grapes are steeped on skins for eight hours before they are transferred into beautiful 4x800 litre terracotta amphora. Slow, oxidative maturation results in a luxurious texture to this wine,

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BAR/D UP VIDEO REVIEW: ABSINTHE SALON MELBOURNE For most of us, our first encounter with fairies was watching Disney’s Peter Pan as children, seeing pretty little Tinkerbell fly across the screen. But what does the fairy actually represent? She is a supernatural being, a symbol of transformation and enchantment, human yet magical, a bridge between fantasy and reality. In Paris in the late 1800s, bohemian writers and artists discovered they could cross that very same bridge, indulging in a beverage distilled from herbs to inspire them and unlock their creativity. The spirit became known as La Fée Verte or The Green Fairy – the drink known as absinthe. A pretty perforated metal spoon sits on a glass with a sugar cube on top. The absinthe waits patiently at the bottom for you to gently turn the tap and release a trickle of iced water. Drip, drip, drip… with every drop of water, the oils are released and the liquid magically transforms, like the fairy, from a clear liquor to a cloudy and sweetly perfumed liquid, ready to be sipped and savoured.

embrace because it feels right. Each of the little tables have a shared water fountain in the centre, ensuring that every table can have their own unique absinthe experience.

Is it dangerous or hallucinogenic? No, that’s just propaganda resulting in its being

You have 36 different absinthes to choose from, each with a story of their own, most

banned in the early 1900s. That being said, the wormwood, a main component of

of them unavailable anywhere else.

absinthe, does have a gentle relaxing effect on the mind and body; probably why it was so sought after by some of the most noted artists and writers around Europe

There’s a house rule: you can only have three serves of absinthe in one sitting. This

from that time in history.

place isn’t about over-indulging; it’s a celebration of a very misunderstood spirit, one that should receive far more recognition than it does.

At Absinthesalon Melbourne, absinthe is pretty much all you’ll get to drink; and the story of how absinthe came to be is intrinsically linked to the bar’s owners. Absinthesalon

The green fairy’s enchanting glow washes over the venue and spills out onto the

has been created with passion by husband and wife team, builder Vince Marino and

street, like a beacon of light drawing you inside. Allow yourself to fall under her spell,

interior designer Rebecca Lombardo. Both highly creative, motivated and wanting

and be transported to a place that may feel like bohemian Paris but is unmistakably

to transform their lives, Marino and Lombardo moved from Sydney to Melbourne to

Absinthesalon Melbourne.

share their favourite drink with our city. ABSINTHE SALON MELBOURNE Absinthesalon Melbourne is a unique space in Fitzroy, reminiscent of a beautiful little

82 Rose Street, Fitzroy

Parisian cafe or bar filled with wicker chairs, murals on the walls and lights shaped like

0406 207 903

tulips hanging from the ceiling en masse. There is a sense of calm here, a silence you

www.absinthesalonmelbourne.com.au

Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video review

STOCKADE MAPLE IMPERIAL STOUT WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON

Our theme for this month is unusual ingredients – but is it that unusual to want to combine breakfast, dessert and a big boozy beer? Apparently not, according to Stockade Brew Co. Stockade used their award-winning Imperial Stout as a base for their entry into 2017’s Great Australian Beer Spectacular (GABS), but added some maple syrup for some extra Canadian flair. While some would say GABS is a Willy Wonka-inspired game of one-upmanship, one benefit to us the drinkers is the freedom breweries have to try something they normally wouldn’t. In the case of Stockade’s Maple Imperial Stout, the creative gamble worked, winning Stockade the People’s Choice Award at the event and becoming an instant hit with good beer bars and beer nerds alike. For the uninitiated, an Imperial Stout is brewed to higher gravity and hopping levels compared to a normal stout, which intensifies the flavours and adds a noticeable alcohol presence. With The Mountie, the maple aroma can be detected from a range of 3-5 feet once poured into the glass (no kidding; it’s strong!). However, drinkers will be pleased to find the traditional roasty, dry fruit and chocolate characteristics of Stockade’s original Imperial Stout are not overpowered by the additional flavour. Now this beer comes with a word of warning: patience. I found it very hard to slow down when trying this beer for the first time, but it has a little heat at the finish due to its 12% ABV. It does, however, taste amazing… so slip slowly!

Stockade will be appearing at Australia’s best winter beer festival, Bendigo On The Hop, on Saturday 26 August. Limited tickets are available now at bendigobeer.com. Cheers to creativity! Stockade Maple Imperial Stout ABV: 12% Style: Stout Serving Temp: 8 degrees Food match: Sticky date pudding Origin: Narellan, NSW RRP: $40 for a 4 pack (330ml) www.stockadebrewco.com.au

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OUT AND ABOUT THE GEORGE ON COLLINS LAUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY JAM ON YOUR COLLAR AND KRIS PAULSEN

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The Iconic Georges building housed the Longroom for over 12 years. Now, the site is home to modern European restaurant, The George on Collins. Here’s a sneak peek into the launch of the new establishment.


THE DIARY

August 26, 2017

BENDIGO ON THE HOP 10 venues, 20 breweries, 40 beers - Bendigo CBD

Regarded by many in the industry as Australia’s best winter beer festival, Bendigo On The Hop is back again to showcase some of the best local and national independent breweries. Bendigo On The Hop is a unique beer festival in many ways, not least being that its venues play an important part in the beer lover’s experience. The city is fortunate to have a number of good beer venues, and punters can make their way around a 1.2km course where they sample as they go while taking in the sights, sounds and smells of the historic Bendigo landscape. There’s a mix of traditional pubs, funky bars, artistic flair and outdoor pop-ups showcasing local produce, live music and most importantly, unique and rare beers, many of which will only be available at the festival. If you’re new to beer, there will be plenty of entry-level brews on offer as well. All you need is an open mind and a good crew to enjoy the day with! Why not make a weekend of it and head up the day before. The Cambrian Hotel will again be hosting the Opening Night party and Brewers Dinner on Friday 25 August where you can meet and greet with some of the best brewers in Australia.

September 2, 2017

FOUR PILLARS, FOUR COURSES, FOUR COCKTAILS Bohemian Bar and Restaurant, 35 Dukes Walk, South Wharf

Hosted by Four Pillar’s Ambassador and Melbourne bar legend Samuel Ng, with a menu created by Bohemian Head Chef Gerard Rodriquez, gin and food lovers alike will be in for an indulgent night. Guest will enjoy four courses designed to compliment the unique and complex flavours of the renowned Four Pillars Gin. Each course will be paired with tailored cocktails made using Cousin Vera, Four Pillars Navy Strength, Spiced Negroni Gin and the infamous Bloody Shiraz Gin. Locally distilled, and locally enjoyed, this special degustation overlooking Melbourne’s iconic Yarra River is sure to please all foodie fans. $120pp www.thebohemian.com.au

August 19 - 20, 2017

MITCHELTON CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Mitchelton Wines, 470 Mitchellstown Road, Mitchellstown

Mitchelton Wines and The Ministry of Chocolate will again partner to deliver the Mitchelton Chocolate Festival on the grounds of the iconic winery over the weekend of August 19-20. Going bigger and better than last year’s inaugural event, the winter festival will again be headlined by celebrity chefs Adriano Zumbo and Kirsten Tibballs, and will be held on site in Nagambie in the heart of the Goulburn Valley. The celebration of all things chocolate will also showcase the best in local wines and produce together with established, Melbournebased chocolate companies. On both days of the event, the best chefs will compete for the Cacao Barry and Callebaut ‘Best Chocolate Entremet’. Competitors will plate and present their final culinary dessert to four esteemed judges who will adjudicate before the public announcement on the afternoon. The family-friendly event is free to enter and will include an exciting Children’s Zone complete with jumping castle and petting zoo.

Bendigo On The Hop tickets are strictly limited to 2,000 and will definitely sell out so make sure to book yours now.

www.mwchocfest.com.au

Bendigo On The Hop Saturday, 26 August 11am-6pm Tickets: $55 in BF, souvenir glass and 85ml tasting token for all 20 breweries. Tickets on sale now from www.bendigobeer.com

August 14, 2017

A NIGHT IN THE ALPS AT ST KILDA Milk the Cow Carlton, 323 Lygon Street, Carlton

Milk the Cow’s sell-out fondue series is back for winter! Warm up at Milk the Cow St Kilda with A Night in the Alps, deliving into the warm, gooey heart of cheese fondue.

August 19, 2017

CELEBRATION OF THE PIG De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate, 58 Pinnacle Lane, Dixons Creek

Dinner with a difference in the ‘Pop-Up’ Shed. Enjoy platters of antipasto and salumi followed by pig on a spit with winter vegetables and finishing with a selection of cheese and desserts. Wash it all down with carafes of white and red wine straight from barrel, hand-selected by chief winemaker, Steve Webber. www.debortoli.com.au

Milk the Cow’s expert cheesemongers will greet you with a warming Glühwein upon arrival and then take you through the makings of a gourmet fondue. Taste the traditional European cheeses used in Milk the Cow’s fondues, then learn the secrets to a perfect fondue by melting them all together using their signature recipe.

August 1 - 31, 2017

HOT CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Yarra Valley Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery, 35 Old Healesville Road, Yarra Glen

The annual celebration of this all time favourite winter warmer, the Hot Chocolate Festival will take the classic combination of chocolate and milk to hot new heights with 31 different flavours over 31 days in August.

Finish by gorging yourself on a freshly made fondue pot, all set to the festive strains of our favourite Alpine accordionist.

Eight different flavours will be introduced each week of the Hot Chocolate Festival, with the return of crowd pleasers such as chocolate brownie, Nutella and cookies and cream and some amazing new flavours too. All are served with an extra shot of milk, dark or white couverture and the ultimate accompaniment, a giant handcrafted marshmallow.

$48pp www.milkthecow.com.au

Hot Chocolate connoisseurs can enrol in special tasting sessions on offer everyday of the festival. www.mwchocfest.com.au

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