GRAM Magazine Issue 72 // MAY 2017 by GRAM Magazine

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CONTENTS CHEF PROFILE

INTERVIEW GRANT ACHATZ Megan Osborne

GASTON ACURIO’S SCALLOP

GASTON ACURIO 10

Lauren Bruce

REGULARS

RECIPES 22

BACHICHE

CONTRIBUTORS

NOW OPEN

AROUND THE TRAPS FOOD, EMOTION, ART:

JOAN ROCA’S MARINATED

DOMINIQUE CRENN Lauren Bruce

MACKEREL WITH BOTTARGA 16

THINGS WE LOVE

7 28

REVIEWS

OUT AND ABOUT

THE DIARY

ON THE COVER: PUMPKINS A pumpkin is a cultivar of a squash plant, most commonly of Cucurbita pepo, that is round, with smooth, slightly ribbed skin, and deep yellow to orange coloration. The thick shell contains the seeds and pulp. Some exceptionally large cultivars of squash with similar appearance have also been derived from Cucurbita maxima. Specific cultivars of winter squash derived from other species, including C. argyrosperma, and C. moschata, are also sometimes called “pumpkin”. In Australia and New Zealand English, the term pumpkin generally refers to the broader category called winter squash elsewhere. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au

Jess Hourigan

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

EDITOR

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au

Lauren Bruce

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

www.grammagazine.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS

The

entire

culinary

world

was

watching Melbourne as we hosted

MEGAN OSBORNE

the “Oscars of Food”: The World’s

DEPUTY EDITOR

50 Best Restaurants last month. Coinciding

with

the

Melbourne

Food and Wine Festival, all eyes were on us and our vibrant food culture as we played host to the best chefs and restaurateurs in the business. The World’s #50 Best Restaurants

Megan Osborne is the GRAM Magazine deputy editor and a food-obsessed writer. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.

was one of the most exciting nights for the food industry in Melbourne to date. Needless to say, if an after

meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

party ends at 5am after Neil Perry, Daniel Humm, Dominique Crenn and Massimo Bottura have ruined your brand spanking Gorman dress after showering you with champagne while they dance on the bar (true story!), then you know it’s been a pretty good night. In this edition we get up close and personal with many of those who are taking food in exciting directions on an international scale. We spoke to two Michelin-starred chef Dominique Crenn (also the World’s Best Female Chef 2016); one of the world’s leaders in progressive cuisine, Grant Aschatz; and the man responsible for introducing Peruvian food to the world, Gaston Acurio. We have an amazing recipe from Joan Roca’s El Celler de Can Roca , whose restaurant in Spain made number #3 on the 50 Best list. Settle in as we showcase the envelope-pushers, the molecular gastronomes

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.

TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

and what we think generally makes the world of food really exciting. Lauren Bruce EDITOR lauren@grammagazine.com.au

DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee- obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com

DIAVOLETTI CHAMPION 2017 AUSTRALIAN GRAND DAIRY AWARDS

Award Winning Cheeses

#thatsamorecheese

NOW OPEN

KARTON MILK BAR Following a successful stint in serving up brilliant burgers to Caulfield North burger enthusiasts, the Tuck Shop Take Away team have now expanded their offering to open an ode to a childhood icon fondly remembered by 90s kids everywhere: the Karton Milk Bar.

LUKUMADES

With a cute and simple fit out that includes some seriously cool gold signage at the front, Karton is serving up all your

Following the success of the Lukumades food

Tuck Shop.

sentimental favourites: flavoured milk, frozen desserts and – gasp! Bargain – $1 lolly bags, all just down the road from

truck, the Victorian-based business focused on the Greek doughnut – the loukoumades –

Karton is full to the brim with frosty drinks, frozen treats such as icy-poles, ice cream sandwiches, take-home tubs of

has launched its first permanent store in West

ice cream and house made slushies. There are also piping hot pies and basic pantry supplies to keep it traditional. To

Melbourne.

add to the trip down memory lane, you can play the memory-triggering NBA Jam arcade game while you chow down on your nostalgic snacks.

Nestled next to the Queen Victoria Market, the launch of the store is the next step in founder

261 HAWTHORN ROAD, CAULFIELD NORTH

Exarhos Sourligas’s plan to bring his hand-

facebook.com/kartonmilkbar/

crafted doughnuts to broader audiences in Australia and beyond. Lukumades takes the traditional sweet treat and gives it a modern twist. The menu, served with coffee by William De Nass Coffee Roasters, includes crowd favourites such as the Twix Fix (with melted milk chocolate, crushed Twix, salted caramel and vanilla bean gelato) and Oreo Balls (melted white chocolate, crushed Oreos with cookies and cream gelato) alongside new additions including Let’s Jam (with peanut butter and jam) and Grandma’s Pick (with sour cherries and vanilla bean gelato). When designing the store fit out, Sourligas wanted to create a welcoming space that embraced contemporary Greek culture while paying homage to Greek traditions. “It’s Greek, but not too Greek,” Sourligas says. This includes a space where customers can tuck into their Lukumades on bunker seating and wood-carved tables, or dine alfresco in the laneway adorned with street art. The food truck side of operations will still be running, and Lukumades will soon be adding another truck to its Melbourne fleet, as well as expanding to Sydney. 83 PEEL STREET, WEST MELBOURNE www.lukumades.com.au

PAWN & CO After being told to move along from their old Chapel St abode due to development plans at the site, bar/ pawn shop hybrid Pawn & Co took the challenge in their stride and packed up their five-year running business to re-emerge at lightning speed in a new location at 177 Greville Street. The new location also comes with a new look–The Greville Street site is a bigger, two-level space incorporating booths, a courtyard and three separate bars; and the bar’s aesthetic has undergone

futuristic

steampunk

makeover. Many weird and wonderful features have been installed to surprise and delight, including a cryogenic chamber, a steampunk throne, and, obviously, a Victorian tram carriage. There’s also a church organ mixing cocktails, a talking vending machine taking drink orders, and plenty of other surprises that we won’t give away here… go see it for yourself! 117 GREVILLE STREET, PRAHRAN www.pawnandco.com.au

AROUND THE TRAPS

ONE OF COLLINGWOOD’S FINEST, EASY TIGER ON SMITH ST, TO CLOSE Arguably Collingwood’s greatest ode to Thai food,

get older. We need support to remind diners that we

Easy Tiger is set to close on June 16, six years after

are still here, working hard to do a good job.”

THE TRUMP TOWER BURGER HITS THE GROSVENOR HOTEL

its establishment on Smith Street. Since its inception, owners Simon Hall, Jarrod Hudson

over the business, where he will be serving a cheap

While Trump creates an alternate reality in the States, Bayside

and Suzanne Tyzack have had new families and new

eats menu at the site, focusing on laksas, rice noodles

pub the Grosvenor Hotel’s new Trump Tower burger is as real

projects on the go, including Hall’s Major Major Café

and hot pot. The warm and inviting courtyard is likely

as it gets when it comes to the President’s likeness.

at 5 Smith Street.

to be turned into a beer garden, which will fit in well

Accompanying a recent menu change, the Grosvenor Head

“We have achieved everything we wanted to with the

Chef Paul Tyas decided to create an edible version of the man

restaurant - longevity, consistency, some nice awards

Until Easy Tiger closes, they’ll be tipping their hats to

himself, inspired by his golden tresses and orange hue.

and a great bunch of local customers,” Hall says. “We

some of the best and brightest on their menus past–

have both had kids in the last few years, and at night,

their ma hor, a sticky minced pork and prawn ball

it becomes harder to be away from the family.”

on pineapple, as well as their son in law eggs, their

Chef Kun Fu of Bowl Bowl Dumpling is set to take

with its Smith Street counterparts.

The burger contains a Mexican salsa to pay tribute to the controversial USA/Mexico border wall; and a thick double pattie represents the overwhelming presence of Trump Tower.

chocolate and pandanus dumplings, and all of their Hall says that while the business was successful

rich and beautifully-balanced curries… pretty much

(they’ve enjoyed a string of awards and established

everything on their menu is a must-try before they

For the final flourish, Paul has used Cheetos crumbs to create

a loyal clientele over the years), Hall highlights the

say their final goodbye.

a ‘Trump Orange’ dust. “It’s just not Trump without a layer of

pressure of increasingly short attention spans on

bright orange,” Paul says.

the food industry. “I have loved Easy Tiger. Having

And it’s not all over yet. Hall also hints that Major

amazing staff and brilliant customers has made it the

Major might be injecting some Easy Tiger into their

best experience,” Hall says.

offering. “I’d like to take [Major Major] into some

The Trump Tower is now available on the Hotel’s menu indefinitely, with Paul predicting the burger will “Outlive [Trump’s] presidency.” Indeed. www.grosvenorhotel.com.au

specialty dinners; introduce some Thai perhaps one “I’d love there to be less of a focus on the hottest

night a week,” Hall says. “I know some of my chefs

and newest… to find ways to [highlight] places that

from Easy Tiger are really keen.” Sign us up.

have been around for a while but are still delivering a good product. [Restaurants] do need press as we

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Duncan and Leese Elliot CAFE TREO - Owners We’ve setup a few cafes from scratch in the last

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RICE PAPER SCISSORS

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GRANT ACHATZ WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLIN PAGE AND CHRISTIAN SEEL

Melbourne has recently played host to the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

balloon and serve it with fancy renderings of tomato (think tomato water),

Aside from being an amazing celebration and privilege for a food-mad city

basil and balsamic, joking about how really it’s just a glorified Caprese

to host, it has meant one very important thing to our culinary community:

salad. It’s fair to say that anyone would be exhausted after leading such an

Our city gets to entertain not some of, but most of the world’s best chefs

event, but coffee in hand, he pulled up a chair in a quiet corner of the press

and hospitality experts. Faithful fingers crossed they were impressed by

room and pleasantly bantered with me about jet lag, initial impressions

Melbourne, because Melburnians were impressed by them.

of Melbourne, and how busy his day had been thus far–a far cry from the serious-seeming chef plastered across promotional photographs of Alinea.

Amongst those journeying to Melbourne for the awards ceremony and the number of events surrounding it–such as Melbourne Food and

Achatz trained under Thomas Keller at the esteemed French Laundry,

Wine Festival–was Chicago chef, Grant Achatz. While he’s been on the

and spent a brief stint at elBulli (Spain) before gaining one of his first

food industry’s radar of gastronomic genius for the last fifteen years

accolades back in 2003; the James Beard award for Rising Star Chef of the

or so, it’s only recently after the hugely popular Netflix series, Chef’s

Year, during his time at Trio. In 2005, Achatz opened Alinea with business

Table, that recognition of his name and restaurant, Alinea, has reached

partner Nick Kokonas, catapulting himself into foodie fame and ensuring

epic proportions. Slotting (somehow!) into his busy schedule, I had

many more future awards.

a conversation with Achatz that explored his journey, what’s to come, and what he really thinks about Melbourne.

‘Alinea’ translates to ‘the beginning of a new train of thought’, which as an ethos represents the restaurant’s constant drive to reinvent diner’s

When Achatz sat down with me, he’d just completed a masterclass in front

perceptions of food and their emotional experience. The degustation

of a few hundred Melburnians, talking and cooking on stage for over an

restaurant that started as part molecular gastronomy, part pyrotechnics,

hour. He showed the auditorium how at Alinea they inflate a mozzarella

and part pure creativity, continues to push boundaries today. Think ‘pillows

of nutmeg air’, where plates of food are seated on inflated pillowcases

“Then to have it come back in the same way that a newborn gains that

filled with the scent of nutmeg, that gently exude a warm, spicy scent as

sensory quality of perceiving flavour

you cut into your meal. Or sugar balloons filled with helium that are not

“For me, [losing my sense of taste] was very informative… It changed the way I cook. I feel like I appreciated subtleties. I appreciated balance. I appreciated just the way you season food.”

only delicious, but inspire the giggles in just about anyone. For those who’ve seen Achatz’s story on Chef’s Table, read about him, or watched the film documentary, Spinning Plates, you’d be familiar with his more personal journey. Shortly after opening Alinea and reaching national recognition and success, Achatz discovered he had stage IV cancer of the tongue. The diagnosis was grim; invasive and hugely scarring surgery, with no other alternative in sight and a low chance of survival. He thought he

Achatz has many times spoken publicly about this process and how it

was going to die.

helped educate him on balance of flavours, giving him a new perspective as a culinary professional. Curious not only about the process, I wanted

Thankfully the University of Chicago reached out with an experimental

to know more about how his appreciation has changed since regaining

alternative of non-surgical treatment that included intense rounds of

the sensory qualities of taste, almost eight years ago now. “It’s about the

radiation. After this harsh and gruelling process, Achatz was deemed

way flavours work together,” he says, “because when they came back,

cancer free. If you’re assuming it’s all uphill from there you’d be wrong, as

they came back so isolated that it was really easy for me to go: ‘Okay.

he discovered that with his new lease on life, he had lost his sense of taste.

All I taste is bitter. I taste this coffee, it’s bitter.’ I can perceive that. Then

One of America’s–and the world’s–best chefs found himself in a position

if I dump a bunch of sugar in it, it still just tastes bitter. But then three

that had become incredibly hampered by his physical capability.

months later when I dump a bunch of sugar in it, I can taste sweet and bitter, and all of a sudden you start going; ‘Okay, this is how they work’.”

Eventually flavours started to come back, but fragmented. Achatz found

Playing around and experimenting with balance was something he could

himself learning the process of developing taste as an adult. “When you’re

explore as an adult–and what’s more, an adult chef–in the way that a

born, you’re learning how to perceive flavour, but you’re too young to

newborn would not be informed enough to. “It was really profound, I

know or remember it,” Achatz explains. “So you think about going through

wouldn’t recommend it,” he laughs, “but, for me, [losing my sense of

your adult life as a chef, somebody that makes it their livelihood and their

taste] was very informative… It changed the way I cook. I feel like I

life–their life passion–to discern flavours and the way they combine, and

appreciated subtleties. I appreciated balance. I appreciated just the way

then to have that wiped out…” He says, giving me a moment to digest this.

you season food.”

“I can taste probably better than I used to, everything has come fully

to be a really bad thing… Even fifteen years ago, Michael Ruhlman who

back and I’m now more mentally aware of how things work. However it’s

wrote four books on Thomas Keller, was like: ‘Chefs are craftsmen, they’re

not normal,” Achatz says, elaborating that his sensitivity to acidity, and

not artists.’ Now we’re being put into the same category as musicians,

general taste is higher. “Anything extreme kind of short circuits me a bit.

painters and photographers. Which is great and I think it’s largely to do

Realistically it’s left over from radiation where essentially what they did

with exposure on television, and books and movies.”

was they burned me, right? So when you think about somebody that has a severe burn, the skin is thinner,” he says. To demonstrate, he rolls up

That’s probably the best thing to come of his and others’ recent exposure,

his sleeve, showing me a burn on his inside forearm, a badge one would

although I have to admit the celebrity status associated seem tiring. When

assume has been earned in the kitchen. “So if you think about the covering,

asked how he deals with his fame–which now extends outside the food

the actual layer of skin on your palate, on your tongue, mine is simply

industry–he tells me it does feel strange. “It’s one thing for you to be in

thinner… I think I just have a greater appreciation and a different way of

your target market and have a captive audience.” He says, referring to

evaluating flavour.”

the many kitchen staff who have approached him before and after our conversation, asking for a selfie. “For me it’s weird because there’s that

Even though Achatz’s and Alinea’s success came before the diagnosis,

cancer component,” which is hard to ignore as it is such an integral element

the experience and aftermath has clearly informed him not just on flavour

of his development to the chef–and person–he is today.

analysis and understanding, but on working with others in the kitchen, too. Achatz often speaks fondly of his time under Thomas Keller, labelling him a

It’s not Achatz’s first time to Australia, but having only been to Sydney

great mentor and now friend. His own processes had to be revisited when

and Perth previously, it’s his first time touring and tasting Melbourne.

he lost his sense of taste, relegating him to idea inception (mostly through

Initial impressions? “Awesome,” says Achatz. “Didn’t really know what to

drawings and descriptions on large sketch pads), but not in control of

expect. I thought it might be like Sydney, and it’s so not. Nothing wrong

creation in the kitchen. “I was admittedly–prior to being diagnosed and

with Sydney, but just the restaurant scene, the bar scene, the coffee, the

going through treatment–I was a dictator,” Achatz tells me, as it’s been

doughnuts, like everything is just on fire right now,” he tells me as he

mentioned that most dishes during service were plated up and touched

describes his first few days in our humble metropolis.

at least once by the Head Chef himself. “Like most chefs are, especially when they’re young, it was: ‘I’m right, you’re wrong. I make up the rules. You bring it to me, I’ll tell you what it needs,’” he says. “It was

“A mentor is—to me at least—somebody that through whatever medium that you’re in, gives life lessons and sets character examples and guides and advises on bigger picture things than literally how to cook. It’s part of it but it’s not the whole thing.”

“We’ve

already

had

amazing meals, Attica last night just blew my mind.” He

mentions

that

he’s

often asked what the best meal of his life is, and he doesn’t believe in naming

very much that, and when

just one. Often his first

I had to rely on people

dining experiences make

and I had to trust people to tell me what was right and wrong and what

the cut, such as the first time trying French Laundry or elBulli. “That meal

tasted good and what didn’t, it made the restaurant so much better. Like

last night, it was right in that circle.” He says fondly of Attica. Also on

genuinely, I don’t think Alinea would be where it is if I didn’t get sick.”

the Melbourne list is Ricky and Pinky, Lûmé, IDES and Cutler and Co, and he has generally been impressed by the range and accessibility of the

Achatz tells the story of how Executive Chef at Alinea, Mike Bagale helped

Melbourne dining scene. “It’s cool to wake up in the morning and know

create the edible floating sugar balloon, a now iconic dish for Alinea. “In

that you can go find some amazing coffee, and you can go find a great

the beginning everybody was like; ‘Wow, I can’t believe that you’re giving

croissant.”

him credit for doing that, that’s like, crazy.’ That balloon would not exist, I don’t think, if for one, I hadn’t thought about making food float fifteen

His experience at IDES allowed him to draw some parallels with his own

years ago, and two, throwing out the gauntlet to him [Bagale] and he

history working underneath an influential chef and how Peter Gunn has

figured it out. That’s a great thing. Sometimes it’s better to hand off an

ventured out after being the Sous Chef of Attica, under Ben Shewry. “IDES

idea and let somebody run with it.” The sugar balloon attached to a string

was great. I appreciate the meal there more after eating at Attica, because

of taffy has since been a regular feature on the Alinea menu, something

I know what it’s like–having worked for Thomas Keller for four and a half

that’s almost unheard of with the ever-innovating dining style–albeit the

to five years. I know how hard it is to break free from your mentor’s style...

flavour does change, Bagale mentioned during their Melbourne Food and

We thought it was so good, and after at eating at Attica I realised that it is

Wine Festival masterclass, with this month featuring grape.

quite different. I was like, ‘Wow, that makes it even more impressive’. You know? That he has the wherewithal, the vision, the confidence. I imagine

Achatz has always been influenced and inspired by creative mediums,

that he’s only begun his journey… It was a great experience.” He laughs

whether it be painting, photography, sculpture or music. He also

as he recounts his personal conversation with Peter Gunn. “I said, ‘Chef,

encourages a creative and collaborative environment at Alinea. “There’s

everything was amazing’, and I told him the dishes I thought were my

never a dumb idea,” he says. “You need to embrace that, nobody can do

favourites, and I said: ‘But really, aside from me telling you that this, this

it all by themselves.” He’s also thrilled of the movement in the hospitality

and that was good, the barometer is the fact that you kept six Chicagoans,

space that is giving more kudos and attention to creativity in the kitchen.

that were severely jet lagged, engaged the whole time. That says

“For the first time it’s okay to say chefs are artists.” He tells me. “That used

something, right?”

Many creative chefs have worked at Alinea and gone on to do some amazing

I also took the liberty to ask Achatz what he would tell himself now, in 2017,

things, Achatz tells us. “It’s a really rewarding thing to see people move on,

when he’s ten years older (in 2027). It relates somewhat to general advice

or stay within your organisation and learn. That’s got to be very rewarding

for those in the industry already, and was something he took a minute to

for Shewry, to see that. It’s a neat thing.” Achatz’s own mentorship style is

mull over, ruminating with closed eyes over steepled hands. “Be patient,”

‘getting better’ he admits, with a somewhat embarrassed laugh, telling me

He tells me confidently. “It’s woven into a chef’s DNA to be restless and

it’s a process of maturing and feeling comfortable with yourself before you

always feel like they’re not accomplishing. Most chefs I would say. Usually

can really teach people. “When I say mentorship, I don’t mean; ‘here’s how

it takes a long time to accomplish your goals.”

you make that sauce’. That’s a teacher, that’s not a mentor,” Achatz says. “A mentor is, to me at least, somebody that through whatever medium

Achatz’s story is one that many people have been interested in, and you

that you’re in, gives life lessons and sets character examples and guides

can’t take the hardship, or the success, or the creativity as any separate

and advises on bigger picture things than literally how to cook. It’s part of

element, but rather each part of the whole inspiring make-up of the chef

it but it’s not the whole thing.”

and multiple-restaurant owner he is today. When asked what he thought

“It’s woven into a chef’s DNA to be restless and always feel like they’re not accomplishing. Most chefs I would say. Usually it takes a long time to accomplish your goals.”

Alinea represented in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, he told me the whole awards program is about having an original vision. “It’s really cool to think about going to Attica, and seeing what he’s doing, and then going to Osteria Francescana and they’re completely different… that to me is the major component; originality. On the list you’ll see so much bandwidth, so much originality, I think Alinea fits nicely in there. We have that unique blend of high level technique, that play on emotion and a little bit of pyrotechnics.”

So what did Achatz wish he knew before entering the hospitality world (even though he did start quite young, in his parents diner before attending

ALINEA

culinary school)? “I wish I knew how important academics and business

alinearestaurant.com

acumen would be to a chef, to a cook. It’s as important to be a good

1723 N Halsted St, Chicago

businessperson as it is to be a good cook. For a young culinary student

@thealineagroup

or people that are aspiring to get into the business or open their own

@grant_achatz

restaurant; spend just as much time paying attention to that as you do reading cookbooks.”

BRINGING YOUR BRAND TO LIFE

FOOD, BEVERAGE & RETAIL ACTIVATIONS

Combining creative ideas, technology, design & excellence in activation fit-out using recycled shipping containers.

www.shippingcontaineractivation.com.au

FOOD, EMOTION, ART: DOMINIQUE CRENN WORDS LAUREN BRUCE

When I first met Dominique Crenn, it was while dancing to 90s RnB on

“I told [the students], it’s not about my recipe, or what I teach you; you guys

the dance floor at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants after party. Moving

gotta cook, so you gotta get into it. You gotta understand and you gotta

around us all with lots of laughter and smiles, eyes sparkling into the

be a part of the story tonight,” Crenn says. “But it has to be organised. Yes,

early hours of Thursday morning, she was a far cry from the focused,

we had ideas, we went to the market this morning, we have some [produce

formidable person, her jaw set in a line, that I then interviewed the

that is] not to our liking. But we started yesterday, the prep list,” Crenn

following Saturday afternoon.

says, assuring us, and possibly herself, that all will be well.

It shouldn’t have been a surprise to me. We were about two and a half

“The first day I came, I gave them the menu, and I told them to take it home,

hours out from a mammoth ten-course degustation Crenn was about to

to read it, and to understand their weaknesses and their strengths, and

put on with assistance from Drysdale TAFE students in Launceston as

come back the next day and tell me which part they would be [strongest

part of the Great Chefs Series; and Crenn isn’t beating around the bush

at]… You have to mentor them,” she says with a smile. “You know, chefs at

when she talks about the task at hand. “I don’t know what I’m doing,” she

that level, they’re all just so excited.”

says. “The students have been amazing, but I just want to make sure it all comes together.”

And come together it did. Despite some nervousness from a young and inexperienced team, the food was delicious: Grilled abalone with oyster

She hasn’t set an easy challenge for herself. The morning of the dinner,

cream and egg yolk jam; smoked salmon roe and koji cream, and super

Crenn decided to change the menu after some of the produce she had

fresh salmon served with salt-baked turnip. Dominique had been in

hoped to use wasn’t up to scratch. “We had some sea urchin, but we had

Tasmania for a mere two days and had figured out how to get the best out

to throw them away because they are not good. We had to change the

of the local produce… there’s no denying her talent and ability.

menu, very fast.” “I’m just trying to understand a little bit about Tasmania. Trying to There’s no hypocrisy with Crenn; only what she believes is the truth. If she

understand the produce here, and incorporate a lot of things to tell a

thinks your question is bullshit, you know it; and in response to a potentially

story... Make it all come together. ”

sensitive question, she tells it to you straight while looking directly into your face.

The fact Crenn could rise to the challenge isn’t a surprise given the accolades she and her team have achieved. Dominique is the first woman to receive

Despite the severity with which she sometimes answers questions, there’s

two Michelin stars for her restaurant Atelier Crenn in San Francisco; she

no doubting Crenn’s warmth, and patience with the students who have the

won World’s Best Female Chef at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2016.

rare opportunity to work with the two Michelin-starred chef.

The latter title, however, is something she’s in two minds about, stating that the awards are “political”. Certainly, the fact the organisation feels the need to highlight the world’s best female chef rather than simply having an award for the world’s best chef is something that doesn’t sit well with me as a female reporting on the food industry. Crenn is gracious about it. “It’s a platform. We still need to continue the conversation, and I hope in two years there will not be any of this [Best Female Chef] on the list… [but] I think [chefs] need to support each other and I think it’s all about the balance. It’s aspiring for young chefs and young women for sure.” Despite her obvious strength and presence, Crenn’s restaurants in San Francisco tell a soft narrative – one of warmth, family and emotion. Adopted as a baby by a French couple, Crenn and her family lived in Versailles, where Crenn was influenced by her mother’s fantastic cooking and her father, a well-known French politician, taking her out to Michelin-starred restaurants from a very young age. Very close to her parents-and in particular, her father–Crenn’s establishments are greatly influenced by her memories of her family. This is evident from the art on the walls, to the Kir Breton cocktail she serves at Atelier Crenn that her mother often used to serve guests back at their home in Brittany. “Memory, smell, [are] experiences that I try to recreate as a dish,” Crenn says. “There is definitely a story behind each dish that we do at Atelier. It could be walking through the forest with my father and picking up blackberries, wild mushrooms and herbs [and then creating] a couple of dishes out of those ideas...It’s very interesting. When you go back to memories, memories bring people together.” This underpins the ethos of all of Crenn’s establishments. As well as the sophisticated Atelier Crenn, there is a more casual-style eatery, Petit Crenn, and also Bar Crenn, a bar focused on brilliant wine. Crenn says that regardless the setting, her food is about emotion and simplicity; it’s about telling a story that’s relatable. “It’s very simple. It comes from the heart. Everything I cook, and my kitchen cooks, starts right here,” she says, gesturing to her heart. “’High end food’, I actually don’t like that term. I think what we do is more a story. It’s all about extracting… the best flavour from the ingredient that we’re using. “When you think about food, food is not just cooking something. If you’re conscious and responsible [as] a chef, there’s a story behind it. Anything that you do in life, if you’re an artist, there’s

a story behind it… You have to be personal. Food needs to be personal and to be able to connect with the diners, especially at that level.” Of course, it’s no wonder that Crenn is so concerned with narrative. Aside from her talents in the kitchen, she is a passionate poet–which she incorporates not just into her food and her restaurant fit outs, but into the dish descriptions on her menu. “It used to be the line [that came before the dish],” Crenn says. “Now they are pretty connected.” “Since the age of four, I got into poetry. For me, poetry is words, and words matter. [Writing poetry is] a way for you to understand what’s going on with yourself, but also to understand what’s going on in the world, and bring your own take on that, your own curiosity, your own question,” Crenn says. “And it’s a dialogue with myself and myself, but also with the people that come in and eat the food. And food, poetry, these things come together. What’s more beautiful than to write a poem? It just makes sense.”

‘

MOTHER’S DAY

’

gift guide

SAFFRON AND BARBERRY RICE Celebrate Mother’s Day with a festive platter of Persian Jewelled Rice. This meal kit contains all the core ingredients to create this celebration dish; Ruby red barberries, sweet sultanas and golden saffron along with unique hand-blended spice mix. Follow four generations of family recipes and discover the art of Persian Home Cooking.

AVAILABLE ONLINE FROM THE SPICE LIBRARY OR NEAREST GOODGROCER www.thespicelibrary.com.au info@thespicelibrary.com.au

CHEESE, CHOCOLATE, COFFEE AND CRAFT BEER... A match made in heaven! Whether your mum has a sweet or savoury tooth, is a foodie or has a refined palate, her tastebuds will be tantalised with ‘Perfect Pairings’.

Together with 3 Ravens Brewery, Milk the Cow Fromagerie, Ganache Chocolate and Aviary Coffee, Ben’s Brew Tours brings you a simply mouth watering experience!

Enjoy exclusive access to industry experts, great recipe tips and of course plenty of tastings. Each taste tester will receive a ‘Perfect Pairings’ gift bag, including take home craft beer glass and special gift from each venue expert.

COST: $85 per person WHEN: Saturday 13 May, 1:00pm-3:30pm WHERE: 3 Ravens Brewery, Thornbury Book now at goodbeerweek.com.au or see facebook.com/bensbrewtours

THE PERFECT CUP OF TEA The Kettle That Makes Tea. Perfectly. For the perfectly balanced brew, different teas need to be steeped at different temperatures and for different times. So how do you get it right?

This revolutionary kettle has a motorised basket that automatically lowers tea leaves

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up. Detach the basket and it’s a variable temperature, glass kettle.

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GRAM FEATURE

SPOIL YOUR COFFEE LOVING MUM! Until now you have been asked to choose, manual or automatic. The Oracle™ is the world’s first automatic manual espresso machine that brings true café quality to your home without the barista. The Oracle™ has automatic grinding, dosing, tamping and milk texturing, automating the

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MOROCCAN PRESERVED LEMONS The must-have culinary ingredient for the foodie mum. This speciality creation is tangy and delicately spiced in flavour. Add to couscous, salad, tagines, moghrabieh, grilled vegetables and fish.

Recipe ideas and unique culinary ingredients available online at The Spice Library. Choose from our Gift card, Gourmet Gift pack or spice sets.

AVAILABLE ONLINE FROM THE SPICE LIBRARY OR NEAREST GOODGROCER www.thespicelibrary.com.au info@thespicelibrary.com.au

BRIDGEWARD GROVE

KITCHEN STYLE FOR MUM The Vitamix Pro 750 Heritage blender

Bridgeward Grove is open Wednesday’s or call ahead any other day. The Olives and

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Art outlet at Bridgeward Grove is a place to enjoy creative activities, local produce

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CHEF PROFILE: GASTON ACURIO WORDS LAUREN BRUCE

Last year, the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival seemed to have a

Ventanilla district of Peru. He is the former boss and mentor of culinary

strong focus on North American chefs, restaurateurs and outlets. This

genius Virgilio Martinez, a big player on the international stage and winner

year, in conjunction with the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants being hosted

of the Chef’s Choice Award at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants with his

in Melbourne, they shifted slightly to Latin America, with a cuisine rarely

Lima-based restaurant, Central.

featured among the Australian culinary landscape: Peruvian food. Watching Acurio speak to Le Cordon Bleu culinary students following It has long been said that Gaston Acurio is responsible for the world taking

his collaborative masterclass with the international school (of which he is

notice of Peru’s cuisine. Owner of 45 restaurants around the world, nine

alumni), his passion to educate is obvious–as is his passion to assist young

different brands, host and main player on various TV shows, and with

aspiring chefs discover what’s possible with their own career paths.

several books to his name, he certainly deserves the title “The Face of Peruvian Food”.

Attending the Gaston Acurio x Le Cordon Bleu masterclass at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, it’s easy to understand his appeal to

Acurio has been an inspiration and mentor to many. In 2007 he founded

aspiring culinarians. While his stories of Peruvian food and culture were

the first school for cooks and servers for low-income youths in the

related with warmth, the food was also delicious without being intimidating.

The scallop bachiche with tigers milk and basil oil was a heavenly, sophisticated balance of fresh flavours presented in quite a casual way and the duck with rice with plaintain, and avocado; a warming comfort food. His food isn’t overbearing; it’s accessible and damn tasty, and it tells a vibrant story about the exciting flavours available in Peru. We had a chat to Acurio about what makes Peruvian food so special, and why we should sit up and take notice of this country beyond the Inca Trail. What characteristics most define Peruvian cuisine for you? It is multicultural. We are a melting pot of all the cultures of the world… almost all of them. [It is] the result of immigration, and these families founded in a kind of forbidden love between Chinese, Japanese, Arabic and Italians, Incas and Spanish… the result of that is our food. And that’s what we are… those are the flavours. It is interesting because what we eat now dates back [hundreds of years]. When the Spanish empire won the war against the Inca Empire, the Spanish brought chillies to Peru. Then the Africans arrived as slaves and

So what happened? [Around] 30 years ago, we started to finally rebuild

the African women, they were in charge of the kitchen… they put spices in

our nation. Our culture. Recovering our memory of our heritage, accepting

their recipes. Then the Chinese arrived to work on the fields and stayed in

ourselves as a multicultural society, celebrating that we are different than

Peru, and they mixed with the local families.

any other country in the world because of this mix. And the [leaders] of this movement was the food community. Chefs [are now] saying that, it’s

What an amazing mix of cuisines. So why don’t we know much about it

not true that we are a colony. We’re gonna show you, everybody, that we

here in Australia?

love the food we have in our homes.

Why now after 300 years, suddenly, is Peruvian food [being] ‘discovered’?

And what drives your personal passion for Peruvian food?

[Because] we were trained in our minds to be a colony; to deny our culture. Because we needed to be safe; look European, or to look later

Because I had a restaurant outside of Peru and I was very successful, and

North American, because we were trained to be a colony emotionally, and

I had a television show, I was in the position to tell [the Peruvian food

we lost our sense of nation.

community] to go further. You need to use your TV shows not just for you but for the other chefs, so they can have the opportunity to build the sense of community, not of rivalry. So Peruvian chefs, you were initially in competition with each other? Yes. We didn’t talk to each other. Happens all over, no? Two or three years ago, [people would ask us]: “Are you guys working together for the [shared] purpose?” It was like, no, this chef doesn’t talk to the other chef, the other guy doesn’t talk to the other guy. So what was the turning point? What changed this? In our case, at the beginning, we came together and said, “Okay. If we continue in this way of thinking; that your world starts and ends in your restaurant, we’re not going to build anything. We are not going to convince anybody. We need to convince our own people that our treasure is our food. “But if I’m going to tell these things to an audience and then you say, ‘No, that’s not true’, then we are done. So we need to work together.” So that’s what we did; the more successful chefs helped the [less successful Peruvian chefs] so that everybody could share failures and successes all the time.

Obviously you think about the impact that you have on your country’s

I made a loooong journey, and then I came back, and realised there’s a

culture, in terms of bringing Peruvian food to the rest of the world.

lot of jobs to do inside [my own] country. You realise that there are huge

Was that always the plan? Or did you realise along the way that that

monopolies in the industry of dairy, the lack of quality, pushing all the

was an opportunity?

farmers to sell their milk to big companies, so we need to break all these [cycles]. To recover economy for the producers, and recover equality for

It’s an everyday learning [experience]. At the beginning, it was a matter of,

the families.

“We need to prove to our people that Peruvian food is something beautiful and that everybody will love it.” And then it was the discovery that when

Do you think that’s possible?

you do this, you are helping with tourism in your country. Of course it’s possible. Never is it more possible than today. Because And at the same time, you see [Peruvian] ingredients that nobody was

people are connected, people are informed, people are looking for quality

using [appearing] in supermarkets, and people are buying them. We are

more and more.

opening markets with these ingredients. And finally, you understand that your food culture could become global, and how important that is for your

So you can do it, because our chefs are the ones living one of the most

country.

important moments in the lives of chefs. Because they have followers, so you can have a very important, good influence in recovering the quality

Why is your country so important to you?

that we had for hundreds of years in family cooking.

Because I’m Peruvian. Because I was born into a privileged family, and

There’s a movement now in Peru where we’re telling everybody that they

I know there are a lot of young kids without the opportunities I had to

should cook at home more and more. People say, “But you are telling them

succeed in life. Because we are a country [still being] developed; we are

not to come to your restaurant”. Yes, you should cook at home. You should

still building a country with opportunity for everybody. So [with all my]

celebrate maybe at my restaurant but you should cook at home because

resources, it is important to take Peruvian food to the world.

it’s beautiful for you, it’s good for you. It’s good for everything; its good for memories, it’s going to [get the] best out of you. It’s going to connect

So you’ve taken Peruvian food to the world, but you’ve recently started

you with your culture, a lot of things. So if you do that, you will be more

looking back into Peru to improve the quality of food education there,

concerned with the quality of ingredients, who is producing something,

and the nutrition of Peruvian people across the board. What made you

how it is produced. So that’s the challenge now; the responsibility.

change course? What do you love about Peruvian cuisine? Firstly, because there is another generation ready to do this job internationally; because they need to and they want to. And it’s my

You know, when you see the Peruvian culture, it’s a matter of colours. It’s

responsibility to step aside, to give them the chance to succeed, to be

a matter of generosity. It’s expression. It’s accelerating life and nature. And

recognised, to represent their own country in the world.

when you taste a Peruvian dish, you taste the acidity and sometimes the spiciness, the fragrance, it has a lot of character you know? A lot of love. It’s very deep; It’s a very deep food, but at the same time, it’s humble.

GASTON ACURIO’S SCALLOP BACHICHE Acurio cooked and served this dish to lucky punters at his masterclass

because it’s spicy and citric; it’s very good for sex; it gives you so much

with Le Cordon Bleu during the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

power you become fiery!” he laughs.

A delicious, fresh dish packed with punchy flavours, this Bachiche is a vibrant celebration of Acurio’s native Peru.

“The tiger’s milk is always evolving. So when you [make] tiger’s milk in the morning, you need to re-season it; you need to put [more] lime, chillies.

Acurio explains tiger’s milk as a fiery tradition in Peruvian cuisine. “People

Even in one hour, the flavours have changed.”

think [in Peru] that a sauce that is richer, because it has shellfish and chillies; Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

METHOD

FISH STOCK (MAKES 2 LITRES)

FOR THE FISH STOCK:

Olive oil

Sweat the onion until soft but not coloured in a large stockpot. Add fish

1 brown onion

bones and water and simmer for one hour.

1kg fish bones 2L water

FOR THE CONFIT VEGETABLES: Cover vegetables with oil and confit them in the oven until garlic is tender

CONFIT VEGETABLES

and cooked through. Strain the excess and reserve vegetables.

200g brown onion, peeled 200g celery

FOR THE PARMESAN AND ANCHOVY BRINE:

40g peeled garlic

Process parmesan and water and process in a Thermomix for ten minutes

200ml vegetable oil

on 60C [Note: Alternatively, process in a food processor and then heat on a medium heat in a saucepan for ten minutes). Strain through a fine sieve

PARMESAN AND ANCHOVY BRINE

and rest overnight.

170ml water 100g parmesan

Place anchovies and prepared parmesan brine in a food processor and

50g anchovies

pulse until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve. Set aside.

TIGER’S MILK

FOR THE TIGER’S MILK

125g parmesan, grated

Place all ingredients in a blender except for the fresh coriander, Peruvian

75g confit vegetables

chilli and xanthan gum. Blend on high for one minute. Add the coriander

3 scallops

and chilli and blend for another minute. Strain the mixture and stabilise

50ml fish stock

with xanthan gum.

1-2 Peruvian Limo chilli Bunch fresh coriander

TO SERVE:

50ml lemon juice

In a bowl, combine tiger’s milk, scallops and cobia. Season with salt and

25ml anchovy brine

pepper. Arrange with tomato and avocado and garnish with basil sprouts

2g xanthan gum

and basil oil.

FOR SERVING 24 scallops 400g sliced cobia Basil oil Parmesan and anchovy tiger’s milk Avocado Tomato

THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

COME ON A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE TO SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET’S 150 YEARS OF THE VILLAGE MARKET EXHIBITION

Come on a trip down memory lane to South Melbourne Market’s

WHERE: SO:ME Space, South Melbourne Market

A Maglia of Melbourne swimsuit will be displayed

WHEN: Friday 5 May – Wed 31 May 2017 (Market days

with vintage sewing memorabilia and the story told

Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday)

by 86-year-old Paul Millet, whose family ran a stall at

FREE: Just take a wander through and enjoy!

the Market for 53 years after fleeing Europe during World War II. The stall sold high-quality, Australian-

years of the village market exhibition A collection of stories, memories, photos and memorabilia

Part of the year-long celebrations to mark the Market’s

made women’s fashion including knitwear, lingerie,

150th anniversary, this exhibition showcases the long

nightgowns and swimwear, and women would travel

and colourful history through the eyes of those who

from around the city for a fitting by Mr Millet, who

have known it best – the traders, shoppers and local

was fondly known as the ‘Maglia Man’.

residents. It features memories, stories, photos, films, props, historical information and antique items.

The exhibition is one of many events being held to celebrate the Market’s major milestone, including free

Tightly woven into the fabric of South Melbourne and

guided history tours and large murals celebrating the

its surrounds, the Market officially opened to the public

diversity of people working and visiting the Market

on 1 May 1867 and has been serving the community

over 150 years. On Saturday May 6, the streets around

ever since. “The history of South Melbourne Market

the Market will come alive for the 150th Birthday Big

wasn’t as well documented as we’d have liked, so

BBQ Street Party, featuring delicious barbecue and

we went out to the community to ask them to share

street food from restaurants, traders, food trucks and

their market memories through the My Market Story

carts, plus free family-friendly entertainment all day

campaign,” Port Phillip Mayor Bernadene Voss said.

including live music, giant games, jumping castle,

“It has helped us to piece together elements of our

kids’ fun, BBQ cook-off, roaming performers, a giant

past and, when combined with our own archival

birthday cake and lots more.

photos and memorabilia, it makes for a wonderful More info: www.southmelbournemarket.com.au

collection.”

PAPER CUP PROJECT The Paper Cup Project started with the

Issue (#). The company then distributes

question: how can you help local artists,

the cups out to independent cafes and

designers, thinkers and doers connect

restaurants

with their local community? While social

back to the community by donating a

media is awesome, Paper Cup Project

percentage of profits to a different local

wanted to create a more tangible way for

charity with each new issue.

around

town.

They

give

creatives to showcase their work. Originating in Perth, Paper Cup have

Paper Cup help share Melbourne talent in

over 50 partner cafes and due with their

a simple way... on the side of your coffee.

support, are now launching in Melbourne.

Every two to three months, they wrap a

If you would like to get involved or stock

local artist’s work around biodegradable

Paper Cup Project cups, shoot them an

takeaway coffee cups and give it an

email at hello@papercupproject.com.

THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

BRAE: RECIPES AND STORIES FROM THE RESTAURANT Author: Dan Hunter Surrounded

paddocks

and

Victorian

countryside in the Cape Otway region, Chef

from Brae’s produce-filled gardens to what cutlery and crockery they use and why.

Dan Hunter’s Brae isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a destination. There’s no doubting its chops: Brae

And of course, there’s the recipes themselves–

has recently taken out #44 on the World’s 50

the book is filled with the dishes that people

Best Restaurants list following a string of home

travel to Brae for. This includes possibly one of

grown and international accolades, and people

the most challenging and renowned dishes at

come from far and wide just to visit the restaurant

Brae, the Iced Oyster: oyster brine combined with

sitting almost in the middle of nowhere.

various ingredients and treated in intricate ways at particular temperatures to be turned into a

In “Brae”, Hunter explores the theme of place

savoury oyster ice cream; and the much-revered

and the impact it has had on him and his style

dish, Parsnip and Apple: deep-fried parsnip husk

of cooking.

with apple and parsnip mousse, dusted with freeze-dried apple.

From the forward by Andoni Luis Adruiz of Mugaritz (where Hunter formerly worked) to the

Artfully produced with beautiful photography

‘Kitchen Dos and Don’ts’ (“Please… don’t arrive

by Colin Page that reflects Brae’s spectacular

after a big weekend looking shipwrecked… do

regional Victorian backdrop, Hunter’s food and

sharpen your knives – often”), this is a candidly

his restaurant’s environment, the Brae book is

written, honest book with zero flounce or filler.

as close as it gets to actually spending time and

eating at the culinary institution itself.

incorporates

beautifully-related

history,

anecdotes and detailed information on anything and everything you’d like to know about Brae,

braerestaurant.com

POKE: HAWAIIAN-INSPIRED SUSHI BOWLS Authors: Celia Farrar and Guy Jackson From sunny, tropical Hawaii, poké (pronounced

Poké takes you through absolutely everything

poh-kay) is best described as ‘laid-back sushi

you need to know while you embark on your poke

bowls’. One of the hottest food trends going

journey, from the essential poke ingredients you

‘round, the dish is traditionally based around

should stock your pantry with, to how to make

chunks of super fresh raw fish… but anything goes

basic condiments and other delicious poke

when it comes to selecting poke ingredients.

additions (gochujang mayo, pineapple kimchi and pickled ginger to name a few).

Simply select your fish, cube it, layer it on rice and pile it high with toppings like pineapple and

Complete with an adorable design by Ella

chilli salad or cubes of avocado, mango or sweet

Jackson and vibrant photography with a retro

potato. Vegetarians don’t despair, Poké has you

touch by Matt Russell, the cheerful appeal of

covered with options like tempeh or crispy fried

Poké is undeniable.

tofu to sub in for the fish… and the possibilities are endless!

www.hardiegrant.com

JOAN ROCA’S MARINATED MACKEREL WITH BOTTARGA

Over the years, Chef Joan Roca has served as a mentor and inspirational

of how he and his family lived above El Celler De Can Roca, and how he

figure for countless young chefs around the globe. The restaurant he runs

and his staff still eat every day at his parents’ humble and long-running bar

with his brothers, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, was voted No.1 in

and eatery down the road from his restaurant, called Can Roca, to remind

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013 and 2015. This year, he still placed

himself and his staff of their beginnings.

remarkably high at number three in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Here, Roca shares with us a zesty, flavoursome fish recipe from his incredible But accolades aside, the humility with which Roca cooks his astonishing

restaurant back home in Girona. Cooks take note: this is a challenging

food is quite extraordinary. Talking at the Estrella Damm Gastronomy

recipe, but the results will be worth it!

Congress in Melbourne ahead of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, he spoke

INGREDIENTS AND METHOD

4. ANCHOVIES AND BLACK OLIVE PUREE

1. Marinated mackerel

20g of black olive puree

2. Mackerel sauce with white wine

75g of anchovies

3. Sauce of Mackerel Blend ingredients together, then strain. Reserve.

4. Anchovies and black olive puree 5. Garlic oil 6. Tomato puree

5. GARLIC OIL

7. Parsley emulsion

150g olive oil

8. Fried capers

30g garlic, crushed

FOR THE BOTTARGA

Mix garlic with olive oil, and let it marinate for two hours. Reserve.

50g of bottarga 6. TOMATO PUREE Cut the bottarga into thin sheets of 1cmx0.5cm and a thickness of 2 mm.

500g ripe tomatoes

Reserve.

1 garlic clove 10g of virgin olive oil

1. FOR THE MARINATED MACKEREL

Salt

4 mackerel fillets 500g of salt

Blanch and peel the tomatoes, remove the seeds and set aside for assembly.

500g of sugar

Cut the flesh into small cubes. Peel and chop the garlic. In a saucepan with olive oil, brown the garlic, add the tomatoes and cook slowly. When well

Mix the salt and sugar. Remove the bones form the mackerels. Cover the

confit, season with salt. Reserve.

boneless mackerel fillets in the salt and sugar mixture and leave for 45 minutes. Remove, rinse and dry the fillets thoroughly. Cut them into 6 pieces

7. PARSLEY EMULSION

of 0.5cm each and reserve.

100g of parsley 50g water (for cooking the parsley)

2. FOR THE MACKEREL SAUCE WITH WHITE WINE

50g of water

375g of mackerel

0,2 g of xanthan gum

250g of water

30g of virgin olive oil

7g of garlic

Salt

65g of White wine 50g of virgin olive oil

Blanch the parsley and cool it down. Shred parsley and return to the water it

1.5g of agar

was cooked in, along with the extra water. Strain. Emulsify the parsley water by blending it with the xanthan gum and extra virgin olive oil. Add salt. Reserve.

Fillet the mackerel and reserve the bone. In a frying pan, brown the garlic and reserve. Pan roast the mackerel fillets in the same pan. Add garlic and deglaze

8. FRIED CAPERS

with white wine, reduce by half and add water. Simmer for 20 minutes, then

100g of capers

strain and leave the sauce to cool down. Once cold, separate the fat from the

1L sunflower oil, for deep-frying

broth by skimming the liquid, and reserve both separately. Drain the capers and deep fry in sunflower oil at 160Â°C, until they open like a Bring the mackerel broth and the agar to boil, then leave to cool. When cool,

flower. Reserve.

with the help of a hand blender, blend the mixture until it forms a gel texture, and emulsify with the mackerel fat by slowly adding it to the mixture while

GARNISHING AND PLATING

blending. Reserve.

Lemon zest Chilli

3. SAUCE OF MACKEREL

Basil sprouts

150g of the reserved mackerel fishbone

Purple basil sprouts

150g of water 0.3g of xanthan gum

Spread the plate with the mackerel sauce with white wine; in the center of the

10g of virgin olive oil

plate, place a tear of olive and anchovy puree with a little of the lemon zest.

In a saucepan, bring the water to 80ÂşC. Add the mackerel fishbone, cover and

On top of this, layer the pieces of mackerel with the bottarga in between

leave to infuse for 30 minutes. Strain and reserve.

them. Place a few drops of raw garlic oil and put three large drops of the parsley emulsion of parsley and three large drops of the tomato puree on the

With the help of blender, blend the infusion together with xanthan gum for

plate. Chop the chilli and place over the fillets. Finish with the basil sprouts,

a few minutes, then gradually emulsify with extra virgin olive oil by slowly

the purple basil sprouts and the sauce of mackerel.

adding the oil to the mixture while blending.

REVIEWS LITTLE REBEL COFFEE ROASTERS - BLACK SHEEP BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

We all have our favourite places to go for that

Their award winning Black Sheep blend is pretty

daily caffeine fix. It may be a cafe near home or

much as the name suggests: the one that stands

somewhere on the way to work, but what about

out from the rest. A combination of beans from

when we go on holidays? If I want a break, or even

Brazil and Colombia, it’s the main one served at the

a day away, I love to escape to the Mornington

roastery and a perfect example of the style of coffee

Peninsula and without fail, I head to The Little Rebel

that Pete and Trish produce: very approachable and

Roastery.

not shy in any way. This is very much an espresso lover’s blend, which is probably why I enjoy it so

Hidden away in the industrial part of Dromana

thoroughly and it never disappoints me. According

near the freeway, don’t expect a view of the ocean.

to Pete, people often say their coffee tastes like

Instead, you’ll get a beautifully renovated 50-year-

coffee should: smooth, rich and punchy without the

old factory housing a roastery and cafe, where

acidic undertones that can give a sour taste when

you’ll find locals grabbing a coffee or buying beans

prepared with milk.

to take home. Pete and Trish Roberts had already been roasting on a small scale for their own cafe

These guys also roast and sell about 15 different

before selling up and making their home here in

single origins for those looking for specific flavour

2012 in order to focus on the roasting side of the

profiles, and there’s always someone around to

business.

help you choose if you’re unsure what to go for.

That said, welcoming people into their space is

Don’t live on the Peninsula? Get in your car, leave

still part of what they do. From start to finish,

city life behind and go visit Little Rebel Roastery in

everything is created with passion and via quality

Dromana. Even if you have to take a day off work,

equipment, including the stunning orange Victoria

just do it. Go on, be a Little Rebel… you know you

Arduino Black Eagle coffee machine, which boasts

want to.

custom group handles made from old wooden skateboards. The baristas here love using it, and there is no doubt in my mind that the coffee tastes even better because of this.

Little Rebel Roastery 22 Collins Rd Dromana www.littlerebel.com.au

2016 RAVENSWORTH RIESLING WORDS LAUREN BRUCE

Canberra isn’t exactly known for its wines. Its abundance of public

The 2016 Riesling is a great buy at $25. A delicate drink with a distinct

servants and native flora and fauna, yes–but it has a pretty short wine

floral flavour, this also tastes a bit spicy, like fennel, cinnamon and

making history.

ginger; as well as a citrusy, zesty hit of lemony goodness on the palate. At any rate, it’s a quality, clean drop that I would be happy to drink

However, there is quite a lot happening on the wine front in the

with a dinner full of really fresh flavours–or of course, on its own.

ACT region that is very exciting for Australian viticulture. Clued-in winemakers are tapping into the local climate to produce some really

2016 Ravensworth Riesling

amazing wines.

REGION: Canberra, NSW (Murrumbateman) ALCOHOL: 12.0%

Bryan Martin of Ravensworth Wines is no exception. Assistant

RRP: $25.00

winemaker to Tim Kirk at Clonakilla, he is expressing a own unique

www.ravensworthwines.com.au

wine making style through his own label. His wines aren’t just tasty; they’re also really well priced.

SOUTH PRESS WINE HOUSE, SOUTH YARRA There are so many beer halls and

to a bar unless there’s beer or spirits,

cocktail bars in Melbourne–but what

you’ll find a nice tight selection to

about places that cater to all the wine

choose from, as well as ready made

lovers out there? Over the past few

cocktails prepared by the masters at

years, bottle shops that also operate

The Everleigh Bottling Co. All drinks

as bars have become very popular,

are served either in the cozy confines

giving patrons the ability to try before

of the venue, or you can sit out in

they buy.

the pretty courtyard where time just seems to stand still–especially after a

When South Press opened, it wasn’t

relaxing few glasses of wine!

just good wine they wanted to serve

Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video review

and sell, but also top notch food

Toorak Road needed this place and

options. Opening at 11:00am until

ever since it opened in 2015, it’s

late seven days a week, means winers

become a favourite little spot for the

and diners can visit to enjoy stunning

locals. That being said, everyone is

shared plates for lunch or dinner. None

welcome here, so go Southside, go

of this ‘bar snacks’ nonsense.

South Yarra, go South Press!

From terrines to rillettes and beautiful

SOUTH PRESS WINE HOUSE

Hopkins River Beef, you’ll still get

27 Toorak Road

the requisite cheese and charcuterie

South Yarra 3141

boards here–and they are pretty damn

Ph: 9866 4635

special too.

southpress.com.au

For those of you who just can’t go

BAD SHEPHERD WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON

Autumn is my favourite time of year when it comes to drinking different styles of beers in the one day. Whether it’s sitting down for a Sunday session in the beer garden enjoying fresh hop harvest ales, or putting the feet up in front of an open fire to watch the footy with a lovely roasty stout, it really is the time of year beer-lovers relish all the colours of the ale rainbow. Now it’s not common for me to review more than one beer, but the urge was too great once I tried some of the latest offerings from relative newcomer, Bad Shepherd. Based in Cheltenham, husband and wife Derek and Diti Hales left the office life behind and opened up their brewpub in 2015. Sharing the brew space with fellow husband and wife team Scott and Renae from Wolf of The Willows, the brewpub offers tasty and reasonably priced American-style bar food, which perfectly suits the

According to Derek, the Bad Shepherd philosophy is simple. “We’re here to make

Bad Shepherd range.

beer that is tasty, interesting and fulfilling. Whether at a bar or through our bottles in people’s homes, we’re here to make things better, to make them good, great.” Couldn’t

Their American Pale Ale (5.2%) is a solid example of the style with some Australian

have put it better myself.

hops thrown in for a subtle tropical melon aroma hit. Expect a sharp bitterness experience at the back of the palate and a dry finish. For the hop-driven, the India

For the best experience, drop into the bar in Cheltenham and taste these beers

Pale Ale (6.8%) delivers an intense pine bitterness trip on the sides of your tongue

straight from the source. They do have a number of stockists around Melbourne and

and not much of the malt comes into play–a real hop-head beer. The pick of the bunch

are beginning to branch out into regional Victoria, so make sure to keep an eye out.

for me is the sexy Hazelnut Brown (5.9%) made with real hazelnuts and additions of vanilla extract and a touch of Frangelico. It’s an absolute experience and I highly

BREWERY: Bad Shepherd

recommend. Finally, Bad Shepherd’s Oatmeal Stout (5.5%) is a seasonal release only

ORIGIN: 386 Reserve Rd, Cheltenham Victoria

available in autumn and winter, and it gives me the impression head brewer Derek

BREWERY HOURS: 12 til late, Wed to Sun

really enjoys a dark beer. The Oatmeal Stout is such a pleasure to drink, especially

BUY IT HERE: www.badshepherd.com.au

if you like a smooth nutty chocolate shot and I highly recommend you get to the brewery and enjoy this one over the coming winter months.

OUT AND ABOUT THE WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS. PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BRUCE AND COURTESTY OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS

Dubbed “The Oscars Of Food,” The World’s 50 Best Restaurants was held at Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton. Champagne was flowing; Neil Perry’s canapés were being consumed by the hundreds. Here’s a look into the culinary world’s night of nights.

THE DIARY

May 5 - 21, 2017

HIGH COUNTRY HARVEST Various locations throughout Victoria’s High Country

Feast and forage your way around Victoria’s bountiful High Country over 17 delectable days in May. In a region where produce and personalities are the heroes, indulge in food, wine and craft beer nurtured from fertile soils, as you meet the producers and winemakers who have not long harvested their autumn spoils. 53 innovative events serve up rich bounty from the High Country: • Meet passionate growers for ‘hands in’ events. Food provenance takes centre stage; soil, sun and sustenance are explored and enjoyed. • Learn from the masters for your ‘hands on’ events. Produce, production and producers provide the focus for classes, tastings and skill sharing. • Relax, indulge and reconnect over a glass or a nibble ‘in hand’, or sit down to a feast with passionate regional foodies.

highcountryharvest.com.au

May 12 - 21, 2017

GOOD BEER WEEK Various Locations Around Melbourne

In just seven years, Good Beer Week has grown from the spark of an idea to a global festival made up of more than 300 diverse and innovative events across Melbourne and Victoria that attracts seventy five thousand attendees from across Australia and overseas.

June 17 and 18, 2017

June 10, 2017

TRUFFLE MELBOURNE

GAME OF RHONES: MELBOURNE 2017

Queen Victoria Market

Meat Market - 5 Blackwood Street, Melbourne

Inspired by European truffle celebrations, Truffle Melbourne Director and truffle grower Nigel Wood first introduced Melbourne to the world truffle festival stage in 2014. Three short years later Truffle Melbourne is now the largest truffle festival weekend outside Europe! Celebrating Australia’s new found place as the fourth largest truffle growing nation Truffle Melbourne’s aim is to demystify the truffle and bring you unique winter food and wine experiences. During the winter black truffle season, join truffle growers across the country, Australia’s best truffle chefs and the finest food and beverage producers to celebrate the delights of the truffle. Truffle Melbourne presents an event program unlike any other and last year 32,000 guests enjoyed one or more of our events. Truffles are an accessible seasonal luxury and the perfect flavour enhancer for their food and drink companions. Everyone starts their truffle journey in a different place: a great truffled pizza, an exquisite truffle dish at a restaurant, experimenting at home with fresh truffle and truffled scrambled eggs for breakfast. Truffle Melbourne peels away the mystique and shares truffle stories, secrets and tastes.

The celebration of the great grape varieties of the Rhone Valley returns in 2017 for its fifth epic year. Think Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier, Marsanne and more, all from some of the best wine producers in Australia, New Zealand and beyond. This combative celebration sees country versus country, regions vs region and producer vs producer with you, the people, deciding if there is one wine to rule them all. So send forth your ravens and tell your friends that the winter wine event is back! Ticket price includes an epic PLUMM wine glass for you to keep and all wine tastes. No tokens. Royal Pass ticket includes exclusive pre-event access (12pm till 1pm), food voucher and time with one of our Sommeliers to personally help curate your event experiece based on your personal taste and a glass of wine at the Rhone Bar.

In 2017 you’ll find a program of exceptional truffle experiences, as well as an “everything truffle” retail and online store. The festival is working with truffle produce makers in Australia and around the world to bring you the best from Italy, France, Spain, the US and Australia.

A range of food, beer and cider is available to purchase on the day.

trufflemelbourne.com

gameofrhones.com

General Admission: $65.00 Royal Pass: $105.00

Run by an independent, not-for-profit association, the program has grown almost 500 percent in size since launching in May 2011 and in 2017 it celebrates its seventh anniversary with a lineup that features guests from around the world, big name chefs, masterclasses, sublime degustations, live music and even a fashion show. It is Australia’s preeminent beer event, one that has inspired smaller imitators interstate and in New Zealand, and is well placed to achieve its founders’ stated goal of establishing the leading beer festival in the Asia Pacific region. It is the biggest single platform for local brewers and beer businesses to showcase themselves to a broad audience and also plays host to the Australian International Beer Awards (AIBA) and the three-day GABS 2017, Beer, Cider, Food Festival at the Royal Exhibition Building. To encourage more people into the good beer world, we divide the annual program into four streams to make it easier for attendees to discover what stage of their good beer experience they are at. These are; Foodie, Beer Lover, Beer Geek, and Good Times, as well as Beer School for education. Good Beer Week’s goal is to make Good Beer Week the largest and most professional beer festival in the Asia Pacific, as well as crown Melbourne as the Craft Beer Capital of Australia. goodbeerweek.com.au

May 4, 2017

May 19 - 21, 2017

CHAMPAGNE DAME AT MILK THE COW

GABS: GREAT AUSTRALIAN BEER SPECTACULAR BEER, CIDER AND FOOD FESTIVAL

Milk the Cow - 323 Lygon Street, Carlton

Royal Exhibition Building 9 Nicholson Street, Carlton

Kyla Kirkpatrick, The Champagne Dame, hosts an exclusive Champagne and Cheese Masterclass. Four champagnes from some of the best maisons in France will be paired with four incredible cheeses for a luxurious guided flight where you will learn about the history, stories, artisan production methods and even etiquette behind France’s most delicious exports. Tickets $120pp milkthecow.com.au

Tickets available via: gabsfestival.com

At GABS Beer, Cider and Food Fest presented by Dan Murphy’s, they’re all about sharing a their love of craft beer and cider with as many people as possible through an exceptional festival experience. Featuring more than 600 beers and ciders including up to 180 specially brewed festival beers and ciders, the thriving Dan Murphy’s Marketplace, The Local Taphouse Craft College, Ariston Food and Drink Experience, the Little Creatures Live entertainment program and more, there’s plenty to see and do at GABS!