GRAM Magazine Issue 76 // OCTOBER 2017 by GRAM Magazine

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PUBLISHER Rothesay Media EDITOR Lauren Bruce lauren@grammagazine.com.au DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne megan@grammagazine.com.au DESIGN Jess Hourigan jess@grammagazine.com.au ADVERTISING Keats Mulligan keats@grammagazine.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Bel Ryan, Charley May, Dean Schmideg, Trev Birks, Lisa Holmen PRINTING ACM Printers DISTRIBUTION Melbourne Distribution Services

ISSUE 75 : SPRING Ah, spring. There’s a heady scent in the air of cherry blossoms, sunshine and afternoon rain. But we’re not here to talk about the weather. We’re here to talk about FOOD – and what better season to talk about food than in spring? Spring is all about our natural environment bursting at the seams with seasonal produce, so we’re elebrating all that spring has to offer this month – and in the springlike spirit of starting anew, we’re kicking off our new bi-monthly format in the process with a bigger, beefier magazine to boot. This month, we’re taking strawberries to places they’ve never been before in a fresh, delicious recipe feature; we’re looking at edible flowers and how to use them; we find out about Carlton North’s ingenious food and wine bar, Henry Sugar, and we discover the amazing sparkling wine of Tasmania.

CONTACT info@grammagazine.com.au WEB grammagazine.com.au 2

This, of course, is just the beginning. Get stuck in, and get inspired to take your spring kitchen to the next level with issue 76: The Spring Edition. - Lauren grammagazine.com.au

Table

O F CO N T E N T S

features

SPOTLIGHT: FOOD, FISHING AND WINE

Lauren Bruce

A GUIDE TO EDIBLE FLOWERS

Bel Ryan

HENRY SUGAR

Megan Osborne

BEYOND CHAMPAGNE: TASMANIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S REMARKABLE SPARKLING Lauren Bruce

GOURMET INDULGENCE IN THE ATHERTON TABLELANDS

TROUT CEVICHE

Lisa Holmen

12.

24.

recipes

30.

regulars 16

GRAM NEWS

COFFEE REVIEW

BOOZE NEWS

BEERS AND BREWS

BAR/D UP BAR REVIEW

DIARY

NEXT MONTH

Charley May

NORTHERN STYLE LAMB

Ricky and Pinkys

ONE FRUIT FOUR WAYS - STRAWBERRIES

Chilli and Strawberry Jam White Chocolate Matcha Strawberries Savoury Strawberry and Basil Pizza Balsamic Strawberry Salad with Walnuts and Blue Cheese

Bel Ryan

ELDERFLOWER BABA

Mike Baker and Daniel Mason

TOMATO, WHITE BEAN AND SPINACH SOUP WITH THYME

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Gram

CO N T R I B U TO R S Megan Osborne DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne is the GRAM Magazine deputy editor and a food-obsessed writer. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.

Lisa Holmen After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel. Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. lisaeatsworld.com ig: lisaeatworld

meganosborne.com.au ig / tw: foodiewritings

Bel Ryan Since she was young pup Bel Ryan has been infatuated with two things – words and food. After moving to the culinary mecca that is Melbourne just shy of seven years ago, Bel is determined to whisk, dice and eat her way through the entire city. She is known for combining food with music in her writing for various publications, as well as striving to taste every unusual ingredient under the sun. itsbelryan.wordpress.com

Trev Birks Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival. tw / ig: onthe_bandwagon

Charley May Charley May is a biologist by training and a wine communicator by profession. When she’s not at the tasting bench or crafting silky words, you’ll find her on a river somewhere pursuing her other great love... Fly-fishing.

Dean Schmideg A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee-obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. ig / fb / tw: imagesds / bardupmelb e: deany76@gmail.com

Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: keats@grammagazine.com.au

Jess Hourigan

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

EDITOR

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au

Lauren Bruce

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

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Spring NEWS

Provincial Rooftoop Launch

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The Provincial Hotel has long been known as the ‘grand old dame’ of Brunswick Street, and now, its new rooftop is bringing a fresh aspect to this establishment while continuing the Provincial tradition: an eclectic cohesion of vintage patio furniture, rambling vines and dilapidated charm. The rooftop’s bar offering is uncomplicated, with 10 beers on tap, a selection of local and international wines by the glass, and cocktails with a a dash of sass, including: Dance with the Devil, a rich, dark and slightly bitter drink with vanilla, caramel and butterscotch flavours; the Pina Colada 2.5, which is a classic Pina Colada served ‘the Prov way’; and You’re Punching Mate, a fruit punch with quick picked watermelon, pomegranate, mint and citrus. Relaxed dining championing burgers is on offer including: The Johnson Jamma, with fried chicken, onion jam, cheese and bacon crisps; The Brunswick with a mac patty, cheese and cheese Doritos; and The Smith Street, a sticky pork burger with battered sausage and pickles. With the warmer months just hitting, the Provincial Rooftop is set to be the ultimate hangout in the heart of the north. provincialhotel.com.au

Piccolina Gelateria opens New Flagship Store in Collingwood

Atta brings exciting Indian cuisine to Albert Park Restaurateur Harry Dhanjal is aiming to change Melbourne’s perception of Indian food with new contemporary Indian venture, Atta, in Melbourne’s south. Located a stone’s throw from Albert Park beach, Atta (meaning “flour”) is serving up vibrant, creative dishes that encourage diners to think about and enjoy Indian food in new ways. Plates include Sikandari Raan, braised leg of lamb, sous vide Dutch carrots, herb potatoes and mint chutney, Tandoori Aloo, spice infused stuffed potatoes with pumpkin cumin puree and chilli chutney, and Ras Malai, which are cottage cheese dumplings with saffron and pistachio chhena accompanied with freezedried raspberry tuilles. Dhanjal has always lived and breathed quality food and brings more than a decade of hospitality experience to Atta. Dhanjal says he’s looking to not only walk the line between a fun and fine dining experience, but he’s also looking to elevate the sophistication of Indian food’s reputation in Melbourne. “People don’t usually consider Indian cuisine when it comes to special occasions or fine dining, and we believe it deserves to be showcased for what it is; a delicious cuisine with amazing flavours… and a range of options that don’t have to be heavy, unlike the usual perception of Indian cuisine.” attarestaurant.com.au

Traditional south Italian gelato joint, Piccolina Gelateria, is set to launch a brand new flagship store in Collingwood’s Smith Street. A small shop selling some of the best gelato in Melbourne from its little store in Hawthorn, Piccolina has more than 20, all-natural and seasonal gelato, sorbetti and granita flavours, such as pistachio, salted caramel and lime. Now, part-owner Sandra Foti is taking her family recipes to a brand-spanking-new Collingwood site, where the wonderful store can truly come into its own – the only issue is, the extra space might mean more flavours, making it even more difficult to choose! Smith Street Piccolina is launching this October. piccolinagelateria.com.au

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Taste of Melbourne gets an MCG makeover Taste of Melbourne is coming to central Melbourne, and this time, it’s not just about food. With an exciting new concept aimed at celebrating Melbourne’s vibrant food and culture scene, Taste of Melbourne will now call Melbourne Cricket Ground’s Yarra Park home. Once again in partnership with Electrolux, the new and improved Taste of Melbourne will also take place on a new summer date: 30 November to 3 December 2017. The program has been shaken up to include many aspects of Melbourne’s vibrant creative scene. For the first time, Taste of Melbourne will pair the city’s favourite chefs with creative counterparts, from fashion designers and sculptors to graffiti artists and illustrators. A series of unique culinary collaborations will be created to celebrate the festival’s 10th birthday.

Already known as the food capital of the country, Melbourne is about to play host to a new series of curated festivals and events when the La Dolce Italia lineup kicks off in October. Showcasing the very things that Melbourne is famous for, from eats and drinks to fashion and music, Melbourne’s love of good food, and a good party, will be well tended to when the La Dolce Italia lineup kicks off in October.

The four-day festival will see MCG’s Yarra Park transformed to delight the senses of art and entertainment enthusiasts, culinary connoisseurs, gig-goers and passionate producers as the city unites to welcome summer in style with good vibes and great food.

From seafood masterclasses to a pizza and beer extravaganza, no matter what your eating preference, you can bet you will be well taken care of.

Taste of Melbourne is launching a reimagined new program that includes: • A 10th Birthday Bash to kick off the festival including creative collaborations • An After Dark Party in the park with exclusive gigs by local bands and DJs • The Marketplace with wares from Melbourne’s favourite makers, designers and artisan producers • Intimate masterclasses where foodies can cook and dine with the city’s top chefs and cooking demonstrations • A Family Fun Day for a kid-approved Sunday outing • VIP experiences for friends to feast together in exclusive Taste Tipis, or private Garden Bar Bungalows

For the more refined palettes, and those who like to get a better sense of what they’re eating, a series of masterclasses including demonstrations from some of Australia’s leading chefs and patissiers is sure to tick all boxes. International seafood Chef Pete Hilcke, award winning cake maker Shan Weerasiri of Cake Bytes, and World Champion Pizza Maker Johnny Di Francesco will share their tricks of the trade—and some incredible food—to get foodie brains ticking and fingers licking. Food lovers will also rejoice at the pizza and beer degustation event, which matches seven pizzas with seven different beers – deadly sins of the very best kind –all accompanied by live music.

Taste of Melbourne tickets will be on sale from 5 October. melbourne.tastefestivals.com

Event extravaganza coming to Melbourne this October

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Italian Yum Cha? Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it at the Grand Hotel Richmond’s Grand Hotel is fusing the best two food traditions ever – Italian food and yum cha – together in several weekends across October and November. The concept, made famous by the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival, will see the iconic Richmond local’s kitchen serving up Italian specialties in traditional yum cha style. Imagine beautiful small dishes of to-die-for food being whisked around the room ready for you to pick and choose. Imagine little steamer baskets opening with a puff of steam to surprise you with superb hand-made rabbit tortellini, divine crudo of kingfish, and a myriad of other Italian delights. Served in yum cha portions, we challenge you to try them all (although we doubt you’ll be able to)! Italy meets China – you’d have to be a fool to say no. Sitting Dates: Saturday October 7th, Sunday October 8th, Saturday November 4th, Sunday November 5th grandrichmond.com.au

South Melbourne Night Market Stall Applications Now Open! In 2018, the South Melbourne Night Market turns ten, and we’d love you to be part of this milestone year! Applications are now open for stallholders to take part in our Night Market, which opens for an eight-week season every Thursday evening from 4 January until 22 February. Just like the regular Market, there’s a lot to love about the Night Market. Fans come from near and far, with the delicious food and festival vibe attracting locals alongside tourists from interstate and abroad. After all,

Anyone (and everyone) who likes a drink is also guaranteed to have a good time at the two boozy festival events on offer. A dedicated Gin and Vodka Festival, and a delightful Champagne, Prosecco and Sparkling Festival will round out the events with no shortage of drinks or good times. Don’t miss some of the country’s best DJ’s including Chloe Wilson, Piero Giovannini, Mark Pelligrino & DJ AK – Australia’s #1 Female R&B DJ also at the Gin & Vodka Festival. All events take place at The Paddock in Federation Square. Full event details and tickets available at ladolceitalia.com.au

where else in Melbourne can you saunter along the street and take your pick of worldclass fare from restaurants, bars, food trucks and carts while enjoying a laid-back summer atmosphere with live music, shopping and entertainment? It’s a much-loved combination that we can’t wait to showcase again. Add your sparkle to the Night Market and apply for a stall now at: southmelbournenightmarket.com.au Applications close 31 October 2017. Brought to you by South Melbourne Market.

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BENDIGO IS A VIBRANT regional centre, boasting beautiful streets created from one of the world’s greatest gold rushes.

a spring guide to

BENDIGO

Now fondly regarded as an arts and cultural hub, Bendigo’s historic streets beat with a contemporary feel. Good food, wine, boutique shopping, attractions and experiences are ready to be explored. Magnificent buildings and monuments remain in Bendigo to shed light on the formative heydays, and today they are the beautiful backdrop to a fascinating destination. The weather is finally getting warmer, so it’s time to get off the couch and enjoy some of the must-dos in Bendigo this spring!

FOR THE FASHION ENTHUSIASTS

FOR THE WINE FANATICS

FOR THE MUSIC FANS

Edith Head is one of the most celebrated

October is the month for you! For those who

Bendigo will be buzzing with Blues and Roots

Hollywood costume designers. She dressed

enjoy a great festival atmosphere, Heathcote

performances and workshops during the

the ever so elegant Princess Grace, fashion

Wine and Food Festival (7–8 October) is the

Bendigo Blues and Roots Music Festival (9–12

icon Audrey Hepburn and Hollywood

event not to be missed. Be the first to try new

November). There will be more than 100 artists

sweetheart Shirley Temple, just to name a

release wines from the Heathcote region in a

performing across more than 30 venues over

few. Bendigo Art Gallery is bringing you an

Shiraz heaven country!

four days, including the popular Blues Trams

exclusive exhibition this spring, “The Costume

and very secretive Bendigo Beer Pop Up

Designer: Edith Head and Hollywood”,

Wanting something with heritage on the side?

opening 29 September and here till 21 January.

Bendigo Uncorked Week (6–15 October) is

laneway parties.

just what you need. Bendigo Winegrowers

Are you a massive fan of Australian rock?

Want to dress up? Don’t miss the Jayco

are bringing you a week-long celebration of

Jimmy Barnes, along with Jon Stevens, Richard

Bendigo Cup on 1 November, where a

Bendigo fine wine, inspired local food and

Clapton, and Taxiride will be performing

fascinator accompanied with champagne is a

grand gold rush architecture. From all-time

at Rock in the Vines on 4 November at the

must.

favourites Bendigo Heritage Uncorked and

stunning Sutton Grange winery. It’s going to

Heritage After Dark, to a laneway Fiesta,

be glorious!

underground dinner and a pop up wine shop.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

BENDIGO WINEGROWERS ARE BRINGING YOU A WEEK-LONG CELEBRATION OF BENDIGO FINE WINE, INSPIRED LOCAL FOOD AND GRAND GOLD RUSH ARCHITECTURE.

FOR THE HEALTHY MINDS

Bendigo is ideally located in Central Victoria and only 90 minutes from Melbourne Airport along the Calder Freeway, and 90–120 minutes via

What if we told you there is a festival which is

V/Line trains from Southern Cross station in Melbourne.

animal friendly and promotes a healthy lifestyle and diet? Plus, yoga and food demonstrations are on the table. Vegecareian Festival on 7 October is a food festival with a difference and we promise you will love it. Are you looking for a challenge? Want to experience Bendigo’s grand heritage streetscapes by foot? We can help! The Bendigo Bank Fun Run (5 November) is a great event which raises money for the local hospital and is the one you should lock in this Spring. There are plenty more experiences and events in Bendigo on offer. For more information, things to see and do, and accommodation visit WWW.BENDIGOTOURISM.COM

BREAKING THE MOULD Charley May has now entered an entirely new sphere that focuses on her fly fishing expertise

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WO R D S L AURE N BRU CE

SP OT L I G H T : FOO D , F ISH IN G AN D WIN E It’s interesting that we’ve reached 2017 and yet, fishing is still widely considered a predominantly male pastime. Here to change perceptions and encourage not just women, but burgeoning fly fishers of all kinds to give it a red-hot go and have fun in the process is wine writer, biologist and fly-fishing enthusiast, Charley May. Awarded ‘Australia’s Best New Wine Writer’ in 2014, Charley May has now entered an entirely new sphere that focuses on her fly fishing expertise. Launching her new business, Charley May Fly Fishing, she offers flyfishing fun no matter what your level of experience. We spoke to Charley about her nearly 30 years of fly fishing, her tips on how to catch and cook trout and how she brings together her two passions: fly-fishing and wine.

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ABOUT CHARLEY MAY Why have you moved from the world of wine into flyfishing? I started working in the wine industry in 2010, so vino is a relatively new passion for me. However, I’ve been fly fishing since I was nine. Last year, a rough experience at work made me kind of fall out of love with wine and to heal, I turned to where I always go – the water. Whilst fishing on the Mitta Mitta I thought how I’d always taken friends out fly fishing as a side hustle and wondered: why not turn this skill into something more serious? I then mentioned my business idea to a couple of mentors and mates, and they gave me the confidence to give it a go. To celebrate the launch of Charley May Fly Fishing on 30 August, I cracked open a bottle of Bollinger and got my first booking enquiry a few hours later! Do you think wine and fishing go together? How are you combining both of these passions? In correct order, I think they go together like good Sauternes and Stilton! Most of the rivers I take people on are just a stone’s throw from some of my fave Victorian wine regions. The Stephenson River - a day trip from Melbourne - lies just beyond the Yarra Valley, so I’ll often pop into Oakridge, Giant Steps or Dominique Portet

to pick up something cool for the esky at the end of the day. The Portet NV Sparkling Rosé is my springtime go-to – it’s pure glee in a glass. Further afield, I also fly guide up on the King River (hello, Italian varietals) and the Ovens River near Beechworth and Bright (Giaconda, Star Lane, Sorrenberg and Billy Button wines being regional standouts) so I’m spoilt for choice when it comes to riverside aperitivo! When I take people to my fishing nirvana near Angler’s Rest in the middle of nowhere, I usually pack a few special bottles because whether we catch fish or not, the beauty of the surrounds deserves a decent drop. Despite not working in wine anymore I’m still mad for it and love educating anyone willing to listen (and taste) on the subject.

ABOUT FLY-FISHING AND COOKING TROUT What time of year is good to go fly fishing for trout? The trout season in Victoria runs from Saturday 2 September 2017 to the Queen’s Birthday weekend in June 2018. Early in the season many rivers run high because of winter rain and snow melt from the mountains making fishing a bit tricky, especially for beginners. However, rivers usually settle down and start fishing sweet by the end of October – making it

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an awesome time to start fly-fishing. January and February can heat up, so I tend to head into cooler conditions in the High Country to get the best fishing. Personally, my all-time favourite time and place to fish are those balmy evenings in March on the Bundarra River, when the stream comes alive with insects and trout start going nuts. Last season I caught five decent-sized fish just before the sunset – it really was a magic moment. Why is fly-fishing synonymous with trout? Fly-fishing is an ancient form of angling that has been used to target trout for hundreds of years. Back in the Middle Ages people noticed that trout fed on insects living in the river, so they started making rudimentary equipment to imitate the bugs and catch fish. Over the years, advances in technology led to the development of much more sophisticated rods, casting techniques and an array of beautiful ‘fly patterns’ that are used to catch fish. To be honest, it’s always been a kind of esoteric, geeky pursuit because you can catch trout using lots of other easier angling techniques. However, when Brad Pitt hit the screen in 1992 as a rebellious fly fisher in Robert Redford’s A River Runs Through It he really raised the profile of fly fishing by making it look particularly beautiful.

because Mother Nature doesn’t always play nicely. However, when everything you’ve learned comes together and a trout smashes your fly and takes off down the river at speed it’s pure magic. Beware, it can get addictive. Once you’ve caught the trout, how do you prepare it for cooking? I often release fish I catch if they’re undersize or too good to take out of the river (you’ve got to keep some prize fish in the water to breed after all). However, when I do take one, I knock it on the head with a priest (a specially designed tool to kill it quickly), gut it and put it in the esky to cook later. What are your top tips for cooking trout? While it’s quite a delicate fish, it’s pretty versatile and can be cooked in a number of ways. When I’m back in UK - where I’m from - I usually gut it, stuff it with fresh fennel (that’s often growing near the river) and lemon, and bake it. However, I also like it smoked or cured and served with crème fraîche and fresh horseradish on blinis. See over page to discover Charley May’s trout ceviche recipe.

What are your top tips for a fly-fishing beginner? Turn off your phone, tune into the beauty of your surrounds, and be patient and kind to yourself. Fly-fishing isn’t easy but the best things never are. It requires focus and being present in the moment – the perfect nature therapy for the digitally distracted! By the end of the day I’ll have you casting and being able to read the water well. I can never guarantee a catch

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CHARLEY MAYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TROUT CEVICHE I like to make trout ceviche. This recipe reminds me of my time in South America where I caught my biggest rainbow trout to date and ate a lot of ceviche. The citrus in the recipe really brings out the delicate yet meaty texture of the trout, and the chilli, shallot and coriander give it a freshness and crunchiness that works well in a warm Aussie climate. All you need to enjoy the dish is a warm evening, a cool river to dip your feet into and a nice fresh glass of riesling to sip when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re spinning tall tales about the size of the fish you caught!

2 trout fillets 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 1 bunch coriander, finely chopped 3 limes A pinch of sugar 80ml grape seed oil

For the ceviche, place the chopped chillies, shallot and coriander into a bowl and mix well. Add the juice of three limes and the zest of one, the grape seed oil and season well with the sea salt, white pepper and sugar - taste and add more seasoning if desired. Set aside. Skin the trout fillets (if not already skinned) and make sure that all bones are removed. Dice into 1 cm (inch) squares or chop roughly. Set aside. To serve, add the trout to the dressing and mix well. Leave to rest for 10 minutes before Charley May offers single and multi-day fly fishing

serving with some smashed avocado.

experiences from Melbourne and to across Victoria. To book, visit www.charleymayflyfishing.com

Enjoy with a big glass of Ladies who Shoot their Lunch Riesling. Cheers!

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the

village market

Wed Fri Sat Sun

8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm

Corner Coventry & Cecil Streets, South Melbourne southmelbournemarket.com.au

Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days

WORD S BE L RYA N P H OTO S J E M K IN G

a guide to edible flowers Spring has most certainly sprung. One of the most colourful aspects of the season is the abundance of gorgeous flowers in full bloom. But did you know that many of these bouquets are more than simple eye candy? There is a wealth of edible flowers around, and we’ve done the hard yards on what to eat, how to use them and where they can be found. A word of warning before we begin – proceed with extreme caution if you suffer from hay fever or other allergies. Always triple check your flowers before consumption to ensure they are of the edible variety.

PINEAPPLE SAGE Pineapple sage features a vivacious red-pink flower, which is easily spotted due to its phenomenal colouring. Though not related to actual pineapples, the saccharine scent will have you second-guessing this for sure. Native to Mexico, pineapple sage is often planted in gardens to attract butterflies and birds. Even nature just can’t get enough of the sugary-sweet fragrance.    As you can probably guess, pineapple sage is the candy of the flower family. Sweet in smell and taste, pineapple sage works well with other fruit flavours. You can use both the leaves and the flower, with the former being the more mild of the two. In particular, the leaves work well as an alternative to basil in both pestos and creamy sauces. The flowers are well suited to baked desserts with fruit as the star ingredient. Use both in a refreshing iced tea concoction.

EDIBLE LAVENDER Lavender possesses some of the strongest flavour notes of the flowers on this list. The most common in Australia, the English or lavandula lavender has a huge range of culinary applications. This hardy plant flowers all year round and is exceptionally versatile. Although a member of the mint family, lavender has a sweet fragrance. Don’t let this sugary scent fool you – lavender works for both sweet and savoury recipes. We recommend drying out the buds before use, though you can also use them fresh. Simply cut the stems, tie together with twine and hang upside down in a cool, dry place. Whizz them in a food processor to produce a powder-like substance perfect for infusing butter, oil or sugar. Use lavender to add a whole new layer to sweets and desserts, or combine with sea salt for an exceptionally fragrant seasoning with proteins.

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ROSEMARY FLOWERS Rosemary is a delightful herb and there’s even more to this plant than meets the eye. The petite, purple flowers of rosemary are most definitely edible and will add an aromatic pop of both colour and flavour to your plate. They are available all year round. In contrast to the distinct fragrance of the rosemary herb, the blooming flowers have a far more delicate scent. Used together, the herb and flower are truly an unbeatable combination. If you happen to be growing your own, the flowers are an indication that the rosemary has reached peak flavour. Use them as a zesty garnish on your Sunday lamb roast, with root vegetables, or for a sweet kick with honey, apple or pear. The flowers are best used as fresh as possible and will deteriorate if heated.

ROSE PETALS Rose petals are widely used in a variety of teas for their medicinal purposes and distinct aroma. The petals of these romantic and decadent flowers are equally at home in a broad range of culinary delights. Most strains are edible, so you have a huge range of colours and flavours to choose from. Roses bloom all year round but are most prevalent during spring. An important thing to remember when using rose petals is that the white base often bitter taste, so it’s generally a safe bet to remove this portion. This is key if your desire is to use them fresh in salads or as a garnish. The rose is derived from the same plant family as the strawberry, and both work well with similar ingredients. Rose petals shine brightest when dried, as this is when their perfumed fragrance is intensified. Sugar them for cakes and desserts, or infuse everything from butter to jams.

WHERE TO FIND THEM Before you chomp down on your flowers, you need to find out exactly where they came from. It’s really important to avoid pesticides and chemicals, which are often found in the flowers sold at commercial florists. If you stroll through the suburbs of Melbourne you’ll find most of these flowers exploding from gardens onto the footpath. Rather than go full guerrilla, always ask your neighbours before plucking their precious flora. Not only is it important to be courteous, but you can also seriously destroy someone’s crop if not cut correctly. Not to mention the pesticide risk (yes, again with the pesticides). You don’t want to give yourself a nasty stomach ache, or worse. You’ll find most people are accommodating, especially if you offer to bring them some of the spoils from your cooking adventures.    Alternatively, head to your local nursery. Either start from scratch with seeds, or skip a step and grab yourself some potted babies to grow at home. Plants such as rosemary and broccollini are multi-faceted, in that you can use the entire thing. If all of that’s too much hassle, fresh, dried, freeze-dried and preserved flowers are readily available at specialty cooking outlets both online and in store.

PETITE INGREDIENT   Victorian grown edible flowers available online. Their website features a huge range of recipes and you can also purchase seeds to grow your own. petiteingredient.com.au FLOWERDALE FARM  Australian wholesaler of edible flowers. They have a super useful stockists page, which will lead you to your closest green grocer who stocks their produce. flowerdalefarm.com.au SPROUT HOUSE FARMS  Sprout House Farms specialise in organic gourmet ingredients grown in the Geelong region. You can buy a huge variety of flowers and seeds via their online store. They even run workshops on growing your own. sprouthousefarms.com.au B&B BASIL  Based in Bendigo, B&B Basil sell lovingly tended micro herbs and of course, edible flowers. Gorgeous punnets of seasonal selections are available online. bandbbasil.com.au

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SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS LAMB MARINADE 2 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tbsp yellow bean paste 2 tbsp shaoxing rice wine 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp Korean chilli flakes 1/2 tsp Chinese five spice powder 1/2 tsp sugar 1 x 1.5 kg lamb should on the bone. 3 litres of canola oil for frying SOY BEAN SAUCE 3tbsp light soy sauce 3tbsp soy bean paste GLUTEN FREE FLOUR 2tbsp glutinous rice flour 2tbsp rice flour 2tbsp tapioca flour SESAME DRESSING 60g healthy boy soy 20g black vinegar 30g tahini 12g sugar 20g sesame oil 1/2 spring onion, rough chop 1 garlic clove, rough chop 13g ginger, rough chop 1/2 tsp white peppercorns 20g sesame oil 60g blend oil PICKLED CUCUMBERS 200g of sugar 200g of rice wine vinegar 4g Sichuan peppercorns toasted 5g small dried small red chills 60g gluten free soy 20g ginger sliced 1 continental cucumber (Shredded face down on a mandolin, on a large setting) 1 small jar Gan Mar brand crispy chilli in oil 1tsp whole Sichuan chilli, roasted and ground 1tsp cumin seeds 8 steamed bao

NORTHERN STYLE LAMB Created by the team at Ricky & Pinky, this dish is a beautiful way to make the most out of our delicious seasonal produce using Chinese flavours.

METHOD In a bowl, mix together the light soy, yellow bean paste, shaoxing, cumin, five spice, Korean chilli, and sugar. Take a heavy, deep roasting tin, large enough to fit the lamb shoulder. Rub the marinade all over the meat, put it in the tin and cover with plastic wrap; leave to marinade for a few hours, ideally in the refrigerator overnight.

FOR THE PICKLED CUCUMBERS Roast the Sichuan pepper in a frying pan on high heat until it starts to smoke and become very fragrant. Combine with the rest of the pickled cucumber ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for five minutes. Pour over the cucumber and let pickle for at least two hours. Roast the Sichuan pepper and cumin seeds separately in a frying pan over a medium heat until they become toasted and fragrant; let them cool and roughly crush in a mortar and pestle.

Preheat your oven to 150C. Remove the plastic wrap form the lamb and add 250 ml of water to the roasting tin. Cover the lamb tightly with aluminum foil and roast the lamb in the oven for two hours. Reduce the oven temperature to 110C and cook for a further four hours. Check every so often, and add a little water if the tin becomes dry. Remove the foil form the tin and roast for the last hour of roasting to crisp up the skin. Let the lamb cool long enough to handle, and then break the lamb into eight pieces. FOR THE SOYBEAN SAUCE Whisk both the soy sauce and soybean paste together. Meanwhile, prepare the gluten free flour by combining all flours together and passing them through a fine sieve to remove any lumps. FOR THE SESAME DRESSING SautĂŠ the ginger, spring onion and garlic in a little oil, then transfer to a blender with the rest of the ingredients except the oil and blend on a high speed. Slowly pour in the oil to thicken and emulsify.

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Drain off all the oil form the fried chilli condiment reserving both the oil and crispy chilly for serving. WHEN READY TO SERVE: Take a large pot with three litres of canola oil and warm it to 180Â° C on your stove. Coat each piece of lamb with the soybean dressing and drain off excess, then coat evenly in the gluten free flour. Deep-fry the lamb pieces for 5 minutes (until hot and crispy). REMOVE FROM THE POT AND PLACE INTO A BOWL WITH: 5tbsp of the sesame dressing 2tbsp of the reserved crispy chilli 2tbsp of the pickled cucumbers 1tsp of the crushed cumin seeds 1tsp of the crushed Sichuan pepper. Using a wooden spoon, smash the lamb into smaller pieces, making sure you mix all the ingredients well together and that the lamb is well dressed. Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle with one tablespoon of the reserved chilli oil. Serve with hot steamed bao.

WORD S BE L RYA N

ONE F RUI T F OUR WAY S

Strawberries Melbourne has fantastic access to an abundance of local, seasonal fruit ripe for the picking throughout spring. The humble strawberry is grown all across Victoria most of the year, with an estimate of over 100 active farms spanning across the state. Like many berries, strawberries are considered a superfood. In addition to antioxidants, they also contain nutrients such as fibre, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium and more. The sweet, juicy flesh is often a favourite for desserts and also works well in a range of savoury dishes. Rather than sticking to the same old recipes time and time again, we thought weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d share four unique ways to use this wonderfully versatile fruit as it hits its seasonal peak.

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BALSAMIC STRAWBERRY SALAD WITH WALNUTS AND BLUE CHEESE This fresh, tangy salad is right at home on all spring menus. The sweetness of the strawberries are superbly complemented by the sharpness of the blue cheese and slight bitterness of the walnuts. SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 3 cups baby spinach 250g strawberries, hulled and sliced 1/2 cup walnuts 100g blue cheese ¼ cup fresh mint, chopped 50g goat’s cheese (optional)

METHOD Puree half of your strawberries in a food processor. Roughly chop remaining half. This gives the jam a heartier texture. Zest and juice the lemons. Combine strawberries, lemon juice and zest, chilli and the salt. Following that, stir in the fruit pectin. Bring to the boil over high heat, stirring as you go. Reduce heat slightly. Stir through the sugar, then return to the boil, stirring for one minute. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and skim any foam off the top.

DRESSING 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup balsamic vinegar Salt and pepper, to taste

WHITE CHOCOLATE MATCHA STRAWBERRIES

METHOD   Combine the baby spinach, walnuts and strawberries in a mixing bowl.

Chocolate-coated strawberries are an easy, popular dessert treat. We’ve changed things up a bit using Japanese green tea matcha for both its eye-catching colour and unique flavour.

Whisk together dressing ingredients, or place in a jar with a secure lid and shake to emulsify. Drizzle over your salad ingredients immediately before serving.

CHILLI AND STRAWBERRY JAM  This flavour combination may surprise you, but the spice of the chilli works exceptionally well with the sugary strawbs. When you have a swag of strawberries to use in a short time, this is a great recipe to ensure none of your precious bounty goes to waste. MAKES 4 – 6 JARS INGREDIENTS 1 kg strawberries 3 cups caster sugar 4-5 fresh birds eye chillies, finely diced 2 lemons 1 tsp sea salt 1 and ½ tbsp fruit pectin

When most people think strawberry on pizza, the first thing that comes to mind is some kind of dessert. Well, have we got news for you. This savoury pizza is light on ingredients but maximum on deliciousness. For a sweeter variation, sub basil for pineapple sage leaves. You can make your own pizza base or use store bought; just make sure it’s thin and crispy. SERVES 4

Allow to cool.

Crumble the blue cheese and mint on top, along with the goat’s cheese if you’re using it.

SAVOURY STRAWBERRY AND BASIL PIZZA

SERVES 2 – 4 INGREDIENTS 250g strawberries  250g white chocolate buttons   1 tsp matcha powder  Black sesame seeds, to sprinkle   METHOD Place white chocolate buttons in a heatproof dish that will fit nicely over your saucepan. Bring water in a saucepan to a simmer, before placing the heatproof dish on top. Stir occasionally until the chocolate is glossy and melted.

INGREDIENTS 6 strawberries, thinly sliced 1 thin pizza base 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice 1/2 cup fresh whole basil leaves 50g buffalo mozzarella 50g goats cheese Cracked pepper and salt to season METHOD   Preheat your oven to 220C, then place your pizza base in it for 3-5 minutes. Drizzle the olive oil over the base, using the back of a spoon to spread evenly. Distribute strawberry slices. Top with lemon juice, crumbled goats cheese and pieces of torn mozzarella. Season well with salt and pepper. Place the pizza in the oven for 10 minutes until the buffalo mozzarella is melted and golden. Remove pizza from the over, sprinkle over the fresh basil leaves and serve.

Stir through matcha powder. This should create an even, pale green colour through the mixture. Arrange a sheet of baking paper on a tray. Dip your strawberries in chocolate, then place on the lined tray making sure strawberries aren’t touching. Sprinkle immediately with black sesame seeds and pop in the freezer for a few minutes until chocolate is set.

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WO RD S M E G AN O S B O R N E P HOTO S H E N RY SU G A R

HENRY SUGAR When it comes to seasonal ingredients, it stands to reason that springtime—known for fresh blooms and new growth thanks to bountiful rain marrying with renewed sunshine—has an abundance of vibrant young produce. It’s the time of year where farmers markets start to look a little more colourfully chaotic, and enthusiastic cooks ooh and ahh over the intense magentas of rhubarb and beetroot, or the crisp green artichoke and leek that will inspire the move away from heavy stews and winter hot pots, and signal the start of fresh, crisp salads and snappy raw produce.

GRAM had a chat to Mike Baker and Daniel Mason from Henry Sugar (an inventive bar and restaurant in Carlton North) about what the changing of the gardens means for the menu. The progressive wine bar serves finely designed and thoughtfully composed food in a rustic sharing style. Although meat is on the menu, many of the dishes feature vegetarian versions of typically meaty recipes, such as a lentil parfait that mimics one made from livers. Chef and part owner, Mike Baker has worked as a chef in New Zealand and Spain, bringing an interesting blend of European and local experience to the table, whereas front of house manager and part owner Daniel Mason pilots an extensive

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knowledge of hospitality in Melbourne, and a commitment to supporting small producers. They tell the story that they met playing croquet in the south of France, which is a statement that’s probably almost as enjoyable to say as to experience. “We both have different strengths”, Mike Baker tells us. “I’m more like; we gotta get all of this shit done today, and Dan will be thinking about it a bit more. We usually end up with something both finished but considered.” With a regularly updating menu, each week at least one or two items change. “We dedicate a lot of attention to our ‘Henry Sugar Menu’,” Baker

WHILE THE FOOD TAKES PRIDE OF PLACE AT HENRY SUGAR, THE COCKTAILS... PROVIDE DELICATE AND SINGULARLY CREATIVE SIPS TO SAVOUR

says, referring to the six course tasting. They focus on making the best of current produce or developing flavours by tweaking dishes, and are also set on ensuring that guests won’t have repeat dinners when returning to experience the tasting menu again. “That said, we have a couple of, I suppose, signature dishes that won’t be going anywhere anytime soon.” Says Baker. (Please let it be the lentil parfait, says us!) While the food takes pride of place at Henry Sugar, the cocktails are enticing in their own right, providing delicate and singularly creative sips to savour. Try the House Spritz, which includes fermented orange, Okar, oleo saccharum and in place of a typical garnish; a morsel of creamy olive ice cream encased in white chocolate. It’s all delicious, but we’ll take ten more ‘olives’, thanks. Spring is set to bring some new drinks to the bar, such as a Daisy, Julep and Cobbler, which are all great to add a twist to Baker tells us. “We try and only use

liqueurs made in house from fresh ingredients, so are looking forward to having a bit more to play with.” The team also vowed to avoid as many mainstream alcohol brands as possible, resulting in house made fermentation to develop carbonation, and creating original sodas. The liqueurs are developed by utilising in-season fruits, and relying on what’s available (which sometimes means stocking up). With such singular tastes and creations, what comes first; the food or the beverages? “It goes both ways” Daniel Mason tells us. “Sometimes Mikey will come up with a really stunning dish first, sometimes I’ll create a really banging drink first, and each of us works with the other to create its pair. It helps bring out our creativity and give each other new ideas.” The stereotypical vision of spring is something the Henry Sugar team aren’t particularly fond of, likening the terms “pollen, hay fever and grammagazine.com.au

flowers”—the latter which they avoid—to the season. They heartily avoid using superfluous blossoms and micro herbs, but will instead focus on light, delicate flavours that are; “fresh, peppery and slightly tart.” But we’re pretty excited about the fact they promise to cook with feijoas if they can find a good source (we think that’s your Kiwi showing through Mike). The following recipe for an Elderflower Baba with toasted fennel seed ice cream, blueberries and macadamia is supplied by Mike Baker and Daniel Mason from Henry Sugar. Give it a shot at home with this season’s new produce, or potentially pay a visit to Carlton North and see how the restaurant makes it, although Baker doesn’t promise this exact version will be on the menu “This was a dish that we developed using produce that was great and available last spring. The baba was a popular format and will make a re-appearance with a variety of produce that is particularly good at the time.” 25

ELDERFLOWER BABA, WITH TOASTED FENNEL SEED ICE-CREAM, BLUEBERRIES, AND MACADAMIA R E CIPE M I K E BA K E R A N D DA N I EL MAS O N FROM HE N RY SU G A R

A friend dropped off two huge tubs of elderflowers that were looking so awesome, we ended up making about 20L of syrup. The best way to use up syrup in a dessert is in a baba (classically rum-baba). This dish took a little while to develop. We eventually settled on toasted fennel seed ice-cream (the fennel element came from a previous cocktail flavour pairing). Blueberries bring a great little zip of acidity and were at the peak of their season. In the version we served we had blueberries in a few different ways (fresh, jellied, freeze dried), and to round out the texture, raw macadamia gave a crunch and a touch of oiliness to help carry the other flavours.

What tastes does it evoke? Fresh, light and delicate while having a fair bit of intensity. A nice light twist on a traditionally sweet dessert. What would you recommend we drink with it? The sweetness of the dessert calls for something dry or rich to offset it. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d go with a delicate spirit like gin, Gin & Tonic with some cucumber, or a White lady cocktail would be delicious, even a simple Tom Collins - you could spruce it up with a touch of the elderflower liqueur and a few of the blueberries to match flavours.

BABA DOUGH 500 strong high protein flour 125 butter at 25 C 45 sugar 10 salt 10 dried yeast 225 whole egg Knead all ingredients in a stand mixer with a dough hook leaving the salt and butter until the last moment. Form into a ball and leave to proof until double in size, about 30 minutes in a warm spot. Knead again then repeat the proofing process. Cut into 40 gram pieces and form into balls and put into greased mini dariole moulds or plum cake moulds. Proof until double in size then cook at 140 C for about 8 minutes or until the dough reaches 90C. Turn out into a lidded container lined with a tea towel until cool. TOASTED FENNEL SEED ICE CREAM Infuse milk overnight with toasted fennel seeds about 100g to a litre. Strain then use the milk in a standard anglaise ice cream base. ASSEMBLY Cut baba in half then soak in a hot elderflower syrup mixed with a little elderflower liqueur. Allow to cool then serve with the ice cream and blueberries.

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WORD S A N D PHOTO S D E A N S CH M ID EG

coffee review AU79 Specialty Coffee - Midas Blend

Melbourne’s coffee aficionados are always on the lookout for a new place to get their fix, and in April this year, an amazing and exciting new space opened in Abbotsford called AU79. Promising visitors a multi faceted experience, it’s a cafe, a bakery, a patisserie and most importantly, a roaster; run by a group of people who have an understanding of hospitality and want to achieve big things.

While AU79 places a strong emphasis on single origins, they understand that many people will drink their coffee with milk, and so the Midas blend was created. As with most specialty coffee, it varies according to what beans are available in order to maintain the correct flavour profile; and at the moment comprises 50% Brazil, 30% Ethiopia and 20% Guatemala. They wanted the blend to be nice, light and easy to drink.

In December 2015, Robin Shepherd, Maggie Li and Julia Hou decided to take over Camberwell’s respected Prospect Espresso and revitalise the six-year-old café, while still keeping its original cozy feel. The area may be well established and very much about the local trade, but together with manager Wesley Lim, the trio set out to create a destination cafe to entice Melbourne foodies with beautifully presented dishes and of course, good coffee.

The natural process Ethiopian brings out flavours of strawberries, while the Brazil is there for its classic dark chocolate and almond notes and a little apple acidity. The Guatemalan has hints of biscuit and cocoa, so a small percentage was added into the blend to reinforce the base notes from the Brazil.

At this time, Robin, Maggie and Julia already owned Liar Liar and Addict Food & Coffee, and since then, have grown their business to include Sir Charles, St Edmonds and of course, their flagship venue, Au79. Now being able to roast their own coffee at AU79 means they can take care of all the cafes, maintain quality control across the board and begin sharing their great beans with other cafes around Melbourne. They also host weekly cupping sessions for the baristas, so they can fully understand the current beans and blends being offered and then, in turn, communicate this knowledge to patrons.

The team behind AU79 obviously have a knack for spinning straw into gold. They have created an impressive suite of successful venues, tying it all together nicely with their own specialty coffee brand. If you want to experience a bit of the Midas touch, here are the places you can enjoy it: Prospect Espresso - 2A Prospect Hill Rd, Camberwell AU79 - 27 Nicholson St, Abbotsford Sir Charles - 121 Johnston St, Fitzroy Liar Liar - 90 Kinkora Rd, Hawthorn St Edmonds - 154 Greville St, Prahran Loco - 436 Glen Huntly Rd, Elsternwick

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WO RD S L AURE N B R U CE

B E Y O N D C H A M PAG N E : TA S M A N I A ’ S R E M A R K A B L E S PA R K L I N G In an alcohol market teeming with trendy winemaking techniques like organic and natural wine production, a pocket of Australia has established a global reputation producing some of the world’s best traditionally-made bubbly.

in climates similar to famous European wine regions such as those from the Burgundy and Champagne, Tasmania’s mild seasonal weather ripens the grapes in just the right way to produce these incredible cool climate wines.

Winning numerous global awards for wine produced in the region, Tasmania’s wonderful premium sparkling’s characteristics can only be described as elegant, graceful, sophisticated and downright tasty. Made from grapes grown

Tasmania’s sparkling wine seems to be sending global wine enthusiasts’ hearts a flutter. In 2015, legendary wine writer and speaker Tyson Stelzer declared Tasmania “arguably the greatest

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region for sparkling wine anywhere in the world outside of Champagne itself”. Here in Victoria, bigger Tasmanian producers such as Clover Hill and Jansz are easily recognisable on the shelf at Dan’s. But there are some delicious and now, iconic sparkling wines from Tasmania not in distribution here that are huge success stories, making waves around the world from London to New York.

BREATHTAKING The sun rises over Josef Chromy Winery - Tasmania

One of these producers is Andrew Pirie. Australia’s first PhD in viticulture and a wellknown pioneer of Tasmanian sparkling wine, Pirie is one of the pivotal figures that helped propel Tasmanian sparkling into the world-class category it enjoys today. It all began when Pirie’s master’s degree in agricultural science led him to conduct research into cool climate sites in Australia that had potential to produce wines to match the superior French sparkling wines of the time. “I was trying to find a region that might compare with northern France in climate soil,” Pirie says. This lead Pirie and his brother David to move to Tasmania to establish Piper’s Brook vineyard and the Ninth Island label in 1974. “[Piper’s Brook Vineyard] was one of the early new developments in Tasmania in the sort of ‘modern era’ of vineyards, at a time when Tasmania was thought to be too cool for grape growing,” Pirie says.

Pirie says that, at the time of Piper’s Brook’s inception, even the Tasmanian Government was unconvinced of the region’s capacity to produce quality wines. “I wrote a piece in the Financial Review in 1976 sort of saying that the Tassie government ought to get cracking because it was overlooking this opportunity, and at that point, the Government weren’t in favour,” Pirie says. “Now, [around] 40 years later, the government is right behind the industry. So we’ve seen that turn around.” It wasn’t until the early 90s that Piper’s Brook started producing sparkling wines, after initially leasing out their vineyards to other companies for sparkling wine production. “The sites attracted a lot of attention and we decided we’re better odd doing it ourselves, which is how the Pirie brand was really started,” Pirie says. First made in 1995, Pirie’s namesake and most famous wine, Pirie Sparkling, became the most grammagazine.com.au

awarded of Piper’s Brook’s entire offering. Its reputation reached such great heights that Pirie Sparkling even made its way to British royalty. As stated on Pirie’s website, the wine has been drunk by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II “on at least two occasions.” When Pirie moved on to become chief winemaker at Tamar Ridge, he brought the label with him. Tamar Ridge is now owned by the Brown Brothers juggernaut – but there are still some bottles of Andrew Pirie-made Pirie sparkling floating around that are now rare and highly sought after. “It’s a bit of a long story,” Pirie says, “but we started making Pirie again from 2005 onwards and it’s the Pirie wines from 2009 in particular that have again attracted recognition.” Pirie continued his research in cold climate wine sites, refining his knowledge in predicting the terroir - the set of environmental factors that 31

FROM LEFT Dining at Josef Chromy | Tasting at Apogee

affect the grapes, and consequently, the wine of potential vineyard sites. After finding what he told tasmanialife.com.au was “the perfect site” for producing sparkling in 2007, Pirie left his position as Chief Winemaker and Chief Executive of the Tamar Ridge winery, along with his namesake sparkling label, to establish his current vineyard and single vineyard origin label, Apogee. With his unprecedented knowledge of Tasmanian terroir combined with his specialist knowledge in producing sparkling wine using traditional French methods, it’s no surprise that Apogee sparkling has put Pirie on the international sparkling wine map all over again. “I’m a traditionalist in my approach in the way I do my winemaking, which goes down to a fairly technical level,” Pirie says. “It’s got to do with where I source my grapes from… and I’ve got very specific requirements for sparkling wine fruit.” Pirie says the grapes have to come from very cool vineyard sites, be subject to certain picking dates, and the chemistry of the grapes themselves have to be at a certain balance. Once the perfect grapes are sourced, Pirie then uses traditional champagne methods to make the wine. This includes a certain way of handling the grape juice, ensuring a particular ratio of chardonnay to pinot noir juice is used. “That package comes together in the final bottle, and it’s a combination of the site the juice comes from, the way the juice was handled, and the 32

subsequent steps [after that],” he says. “Bubbly is so complicated because there are many steps on the way through, which are critical,” Pirie says. He’s referring to just how much man-made interference is required during the process of the wine making, from the grapes being picked through to the wine being ready for sale. This includes the initial tirage process, where the wine is placed in the bottle with the addition of yeast for fermentation, and the disgorging process, when the yeast is taken out of the bottle. “This method we use, which we call the traditional method, does those two steps in a particular way; other cheaper methods either miss those steps or they shortcut the.” He says. As is the traditional way, after the tirage process Pirie’s sparkling wine then stays in the original bottle until it’s drunk. “That’s the hallmark of the traditional method; that’s the method I use and the method that’s used in Champagne,” Pirie says. Another successful Launceston winery championing traditional European methods is Josef Chromy Wines. Where Pirie approached the wine industry from his background in agricultural science, Chromy saw the potential of Tasmania’s wine industry through his business nouse. After World War II, Chromy fled Sovietoccupied Czechoslovakia to realise his dream to become a self-employed butcher. He eventually grammagazine.com.au

settled in Tasmania, penniless and lucky to have escaped with his life, a determined Chromy saved every cent he earned to open a butcher, and then ultimately, establish Blue Ribbon Meats. Not one to shy away from reinventing himself, Chromy floated Blue Ribbon Meats on the ASX in 1993, using the money to invest in Tasmania’s then-fledgling wine industry. After owning and developing some of Tasmania’s leading wineries including Rochecombe (now Bay of Fires), Jansz, Heemskerk and Tamar Ridge, Chromy established Josef Chromy Wines in 2006, at the ripe age of 76. It was one of the most successful launches in Tasmanian history and is now an established premium wine producer, which, other than sparkling, includes the production of pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling. Early on in the piece, Josef Chromy enlisted the expertise of Chief Winemaker Jeremy Dineen, who has been with the winery since its inception. With intimate knowledge of Tasmanian viticulture, Dineen says that the cool climate acidity of Tasmanian wine is its real point of difference in the sparkling wine market. “In the higher latitudes, we have longer, cooler days that usually lead to longer, slower ripening of fruit.” Dineen says. “This allows for the gradual development of delicate flavour and aroma compounds, while retaining the natural acidity that is so critical for high quality, bottlefermented sparkling wines.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Sparkling Master Class at Josef Chromy Wines | Josef Chromy barrels galore | After World War II, Chromy fled Soviet-occupied Czechoslovakia

The close proximity of the vineyard to the winery is an advantage, because the fruit can be processed quickly, which ensures that the delicate nature of the juice, its flavour and aromas, can be better preserved in the process. Dineen says that Josef Chromy sparkling wine is, like Pirie’s sparkling, produced using traditional methods; but the amount of wine they produce is larger in comparison to Pirie’s smaller production winery. “We grow, press, ferment, bottle, store and disgorge our sparkling wines on site, so we control every step of the process, ensuring every bottle is fresh, crisp, and full of flavour,” Dineen says. Dineen tells me the winery has been designed specifically for premium sparkling wine production and, when you wander through, you can see the production set up at Joseph Chromy is indeed impressive. Free-run juice from the estate’s fruit is gently pressed and first fermented in the tank before being inoculated with yeast a second time, and bottled during this fermentation. “This second ferment inside the bottle traps the gas produced by the yeast inside the wine, which adds the fizz,” Dineen says. The wine is aged with the yeast sediment in the bottle for a minimum of 18 months for their nonvintage styles, a minimum of 3.5 years for their vintage-style wines, and a minimum 10 years for the ultra premium Zdar sparkling.

After the ageing process, the wine is disgorged by slowly turning the bottles upside down so that the lees – the yeast sediment – settles in the neck of the bottle. The neck portion of the bottle is then placed in a neck freezer so that the portion of wine containing the sediment is frozen. The yeast is then removed - the pressure formed during the fermentation process forces the frozen sediment and ice from the bottle, and all that’s left is clear, sparkling wine. A small dosage is added to complete the palate, which is a sugar component, before the cork closure is inserted and the wine is labelled and ready for sale. While the method of making the wine is important, both Dineen and Pirie say the Tasmanian environment is key in the region’s ability to produce such remarkable sparkling wine. “Tasmanian wine grapes are famous for their naturally high levels of cool climate acid,” Dineen says. “This is a feature of all of the grapes in our vineyard, and one that we look to showcase in all of our wines, including our sparkling.” Pirie highlights the importance of where the vineyard is situated, which has shaped the way he makes wine. “My [agricultural] background has shaped my vineyard-centric outlook… For me, that’s where the emphasis is,” he says. “If you go to France, you’ll find a very similar balance in the traditional areas of the country like Champagne of Burgundy. In terms of quality, the greatest emphasis is where the vineyard is,

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and the winemaking is considered somewhat secondary… still very important but, once the best method is worked out, it then tends to all go back to the vineyard.” Pirie says that the chemistry of Tasmania’s sparkling wine, and how it all comes together to form a beautiful union in the bottle, is why it is such a formidable force in the local and international sparkling wine industry. “What we’re all striving for is the chemistry of the wine,” he says. “The alcohol content, the certain amount of acidity, the ph level or the strength of the acidity… those things are the building blocks.” Pirie says once you do what you can as a winemaker to get that chemistry right, the flavour then comes from the vineyard and the environment. “What we’re looking for is a sparkling wine that’s very complex in flavour, ages really well, and has natural balance in the mouth; so it’s got sufficient acidity to make the wine interesting and balanced,” Pirie says. “These are all the bits that are important, and so much of it comes from the climate of the region originally. If you get that right, then the chemistry of the wine follows almost naturally.” You can buy both Apogee and Joseph Chromy wines online atapogeetasmania.com and josefchromy.com.au.

BOO Z E N E WS

spring cocktails We asked some of Victoria’s finest bars and craft distillers to create delicious cocktails just in time to celebrate in spring.

The Easy Colada by The Beaufort

Blushing Beauty - Cerise Gin and Tonic by Bass & Flinders Distillery

The Beaufort’s cocktails come from a crew that have spent time in some of the globe’s best bars, but want to mix it up with a bit of fun and not wear a waistcoat to work. Their Easy Colada is an accurate reflection of this, and an great way to cruise into the warmer months. Ingredients: 50mls Untold spiced rum 40mls fresh pineapple juice 10mls coconut cream 10mls sweetened condensed milk

The best time for new beginnings is now, the beginning of spring, and what better way to say ‘hello sunshine’ than to toast with this pink Blushing Beauty cocktail. A cocktail celebrating ingredients from local farms on Red Hill and offering a taste of things to come from Bass & Flinders.

Method: Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain and serve in a tall glass. Even better: for a frozen cocktail, throw everything in a blender with 5-6 ice cubes. Blend and serve with a pineapple frond and a lime wedge. thebeaufort.com.au

A light and delicate springtime garden party sipper, the Blushing Beauty cocktail is a delicate berry-filled cocktail splashed with a hint of soda water and lime for a light, refreshing drink.

Ingredients: 60mls Bass & Flinders Distillery Cerise (Pink) Gin 1 handful of fresh raspberries The juice of one lime 30mls Sugar Syrup Soda Water Sliced limes for garnish Method: In a large mason jar, mix all the ingredients with ice finishing with the soda water. Pour into two glasses filled with ice and garnish with raspberries and lime slices. Serve on a warm day Notes: To make sugar syrup: put 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until sugar dissolves. Cool. Store in refrigerator for up to one month. bassandflindersdistillery.com

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WORD S A N D PH OTO S T R EV B IR K S - O N T HE BA N DWAG ON

WORD S DE A N SCHM I DEG - B AR / D UP

beers and brews

bar/d up bar review

Moon Dog Cake Hole Black Forest Stout

Freddie Wimpoles - St Kilda - In collaboration with Glendalough Distillery

For most breweries, the formula for entering the beer market is not to scare anyone and compete with the hundreds of other Pale Ales and Golden Ales. But for Moon Dog’s founders Josh and Jake Uljans and Karl van Buuren, they were brewing “cool and weird” brews before it was cool.

Melbourne is filled with beautiful old buildings, but lately many are being demolished to make way for new apartment blocks. Luckily, The George Hotel in St Kilda, built is 1857, is heritage listed and not in any danger of destruction. Taking up residence here on the ground level in mid 2016 is Freddie Wimpoles, a unique bar for the Fitzroy Street precinct, named after the man who used to own the building, and who also happened to love his beer.

Beginning in 2011, Moon Dog tested everyone’s palates (including their own) with their smoky, peaty stouts. Then came funky, tart dark ales, double IPAs and some of the best named beers to see the light of day, the most notable being the “Magnificent Mullet Series” of fruit wheat beers: Melon Gibson, McGuava and Billy Ray Citrus. In more recent times, ample demand for their beers has seen quite a large expansion at the Abbotsford brewery which pumps out a heap of their core range, yet still allows plenty of room to play around with experimental batches. Which brings us to their latest beer: Cake Hole Black Forest Stout. It includes notes sour cherries, cacao and vanilla alongside a long list of roasty, toasty specialty malts. The verdict? It’s not bad at all. In fact, it’s sensational. For those expecting a rich, thick cake tastes, well, you won’t get that; but the drinking experience still involves a heap of chocolate with a slight tart cherry twang at the end. The head disappears quite quickly, which for me, is best enjoyed a little warmer than recommended. Cake Hole has been out for a few weeks now and available at selected good beer venues in Melbourne and regional Victoria. Why not pop in to the brewery at 17 Duke St, Abbotsford. I suggest a Thursday night after work, as they tap a heap of other rare beers for you to try. Cheers!

Naturally, there are craft brews on the thirteen taps which regularly rotate and match the food, but this place also has an impressive back bar filled with some great whiskies and bourbons, too. The burgers, subs and sandwiches are all popular options, as well as the meat and cheese platters which are great to share; but please make sure you grab the loaded fries topped with ground beef chilli, spicy cheese sauce and pickled jalapeños – they are just too damn tasty to pass up. With a deer head affectionately known as George watching over the venue and antler chandeliers overhead, Freddie’s is a mix of a warm and cosy hunting lodge and a roadside diner on the side of a US highway. In true St Kilda style there’s no pretension here, just come as you are, have a few games of pool, a couple of pints, chuck some coins in the jukebox and enjoy the warm hospitality offered by Scott McKay and his team. History often repeats itself and on most nights, you’ll find a group of locals sitting up at the bar catching up for a few drinks and a chat about the day’s events, just as they would have done here more than a century ago. Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video. Instagram - @bardupmelb Facebook - facebook.com/bardupmelb

ABV: 6.5% | Style: Sweet stout | Serving Temp: 6-8 degrees Food match: Black Forest Cake! Origin: Abbotsford, Victoria Prie (RRP): $24 for a 4 pack

Freddie Wimpoles 125 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda 3182

moondogbrewing.com.au

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WORD S AND P HOTOGRAP HY LI SA HOLM E N

GOURMET INDULGENCE I N T H E AT H E R T O N TA B L E L A N D S As I drive through the peppermint green rolling hills filled with farms and grazing cows I could easily be fooled into thinking I am in the English countryside… Well, until I see the rich, red soil adorning the roadside, budding banana plantations and lush tropical rainforests towering above me. I’ve arrived in the Atherton Tablelands, tropical Queensland’s very own food bowl where the scenery changes by the minute. At only a 45-minute drive inland from Cairns, the region spreads westwards and southwards from the coastal escarpment of the city. The weather is cooler with a light breeze, giving visitors a touch of relief in the summer months. For me, spring was the perfect time to visit. Perhaps known best for its stunning waterfall circuit (home to one of Australia’s most photographed attractions, the Millaa Millaa Falls), the region has so much to offer beyond its beautiful location. The Atherton Tablelands are a foodie’s paradise, where you can indulge in the freshest gourmet food from farm to plate, epic wine trails and coffee plantations as far as the eye can see. Do yourself a favour and spend more than a day here to really take in the beauty of the region and the diversity of its landscapes. Whether you want to bushwalk around a crater lake, swim in cascading falls, visit tropical fruit farms or just eat fantastic produce, this is the place to come for the ultimate gourmet weekender. Here’s a guide for getting the most out of your visit. Just make sure you bring your appetite!

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First stop, coffee Over 70% of Australia’s coffee crop is grown in the Atherton Tablelands so you can expect some serious caffeine overload in the region. Stop at Coffee Works in Mareeba for a perfect flat white and a tasting tour where you can learn the secrets behind the perfect cup and have a tour of the facilities. For a double dose of caffeine, head to Jacques Coffee Plantation (for specially created house blends) or the 360-acre Skybury Café and Roastery nestled in the heart of Australia’s coffee-growing region in Mareeba, known for its pure Australian Arabica Coffee. Coffee is roasted fresh each day. Get lost in a tea plantation Nestled in the foothills of the Tablelands, just 10 minutes out of Malanda is Nerada Tea, where you can discover how tea is grown and processed, or just sample the tea in the visitor centre. Over one thousand acres of bright green tea plants contrast brilliantly with the red volcanic soil underneath. If Devonshire style is more your cup of tea, visit the Falls Teahouse, or the Lake Barrine Teahouse where you can enjoy a sumptuous feast of tea and scones in the 80-year-old building. Follow the winery road… with a twist Ten minutes north of the Mareeba township is family-owned Golden Drop Winery, a working mango plantation where you can sample tropical mango wines, coupled with Citrus Cellos, Mango Port, and Golden Mango liqueur-style wine.

Over at de Brueys Boutique Winery, visitors can sample fermentations of lychee, mango, jaboticaba, bush cherry, mulberry, passionfruit and star apple. Venture a little further afield to the foothills of Mount Uncle and you will find Mt. Uncle Distillery, known for their award-winning premium spirits and liqueurs specialising in native ingredients. Feeling peckish? There is also a Bridges Bar and Restaurant on site serving a selection of wood-fired pizzas and slow-cooked meats. Indulge in dairy Eat and drink to your heart’s content at the picturesque Mungali Creek Dairy, where you can feast on award-winning bio-dynamic cheeses, milks and yogurt. The dairy’s cows and chickens graze on lush biodynamic mountain pastures, which impart a distinctive flavour and goodness to the milk. Perch on the verandah of the Whey “Cheesery and Teahouse” and soak in the beauty of the Tablelands while enjoying Devonshire tea served with Rainforest Jam and Jersey Cream. Don’t go past their famous Quark cheesecakes – trust me! Over in East Barron, you can see a dairy at work at Gallo Dairyland, while Emerald Creek Ice-Creamery just east of Mareeba is the perfect spot to finish your day on a sweet note with a delicious range of exotic flavoured ice-cream, sorbets, gelato and frozen yoghurt.

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Sample tropical fruit At the Rainforest Heart Orchard you can wander through native fruit orchards deep in a valley on the edge of the world heritage listed rainforest near Mungali. Here you can sample some of Queensland’s most famous exotic fruits like Davidsons plum, lemon aspen, rainforest cherry and rainforest lychee. Enjoy a cup of refreshing Davidsons plum tea or a native fruit spritzer while you hear the history of the first settlers in this valley and their relationship with the indigenous people. Experience the waterfall circuit The 17 kilometre Waterfall Circuit begins just east of the town of Millaa Millaa off the Palmerston Highway. Start at the Millaa Millaa Falls on Teresa Creek Road, the gateway to the Southern Tablelands, then follow the circuit onto Zillie and Elinjaa Falls which majestically cascade over a series of lava columns. All the falls have their own individual appeal, but make sure you bring your walking shoes to Zillie Falls as it’s a bit harder to get to. At Millaa Millaa Falls, you can enjoy a refreshing swim in the cool watering hole below after a long days’ hike. Be one with nature Shaped by volcanic activities, the Tablelands are a nature lover’s paradise and visitors can immerse themselves in activities ranging from bushwalking and fishing to hot ballooning and wildlife viewing. Hiking tracks are plentiful in the region, including a particular favourite: Lake Eacham. With a clear blue lake filling the former volcanic crater, it’s the perfect spot for a barbeque or picnic. For a bird’s eye view over the rainforest below, visit the elevated walkway, the Mamu Rainforest Canopy, or see it all from above in the early hours by taking a sunrise hot air balloon flight. Don’t miss the Cathedral Fig in Yungaburra which has canopy cover that spans two hectares.

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FESTIVALS PRESENTS

The Paddock at Federation Square

21st of October

22nd of October

Gin & Vodka

Champagne, Prosecco & Sparkling

Pizza & Beer

MASTERCLASS

FESTIVAL

FESTIVAL 23rd of October TICKETS HERE

FESTIVAL

A Culinary Experience 20th of October

www.ladolceitalia.com.au

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TOMATO, WHITE BEAN AND SPINACH SOUP WITH THYME This is a really healthy, warming soup that has a delicious richness without the calories.

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 1 can crushed tomatoes 1 can cannellini or butter beans, drained 1 fresh tomato, diced 1 brown onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 6 sprigs thyme, stems discarded and leaves chopped 1 bunch spinach, washed and roughly chopped Â˝ cup olive oil Dried chilli flakes, to taste 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup parmagiano reggiano, grated Crusty baguette and butter, to serve

METHOD SautĂŠ onions and garlic in the oil in a deep medium-sized saucepan until translucent and slightly golden. Add tomatoes, stock, and thyme, and bring to the boil, then reduce temperature and simmer for approximately 30 minutes, or until the soup has reduced slightly and the flavour of the tomatoes has been concentrated. Add spinach and stir; turn off the heat. Season to taste. Ladle soup into bowls and top with parmagiano reggiano. Serve with crusty bread.

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Events DIARY

Toast to the Coast 4 - 5 November - Various locations in Geelong Geelong’s pre-eminent annual food, wine and music festival, Toast to the Coast is once again being held over two days of the Melbourne Cup weekend.

Junipalooza Melbourne

Now in its 16th year, Toast to the Coast attracts over 4,000 people

21 - 22 October - Meat Market - North Melbourne

who attend the festival to sample wines from 33 leading and lesser-

Junipalooza Melbourne is back in October, following a rip-roaring debut at

known wineries participating across the Bellarine, Moorabool Valley and Surf Coast.

the Meat Market in 2016. The annual gin festival will have more distillers, more masterclasses and more gins than last year’s sell-out event.

Wineries throughout the region will give guests the chance to soak up the atmosphere while showcasing award winning premium cool climate wines right inside their cellar doors giving guests the opportunity to meet the makers behind the wineries. In addition to savouring the region’s award winning wines, guests can meander through the vineyards, enjoy a delicious lunch and be entertained by the best local musicians.

Not only are all of the makers behind each gin there to talk you through their products in person, but every single gin is free to sample and comes with the option to try neat and with tonic. The main attraction at Junipalooza Melbourne in 2017 will be Australia’s first live distillation using Four Pillar’s experimental still, Eileen, demonstrating exactly how gin is made. Junipalooza offers obsessives the chance to try something entirely different

Tickets on sale now: winegeelong.com.au/toast-to-the-coast

and newbies the chance to fall in love with the most creative of spirits. Tickets on sale now via Eventbrite

World Vegan Day Melbourne

ginfoundry.com/junipalooza-melbourne

12 November - Flemington Showgrounds World Vegan Day Melbourne is a one-day event, which brings all things vegan into an exciting festival celebration of healthy living and compassion. WVD is a family friendly festival, and is the perfect occasion to get a tasting for what it means to be vegan. Featuring an incredible spread of cruelty free food, WVD also includes music, art and performances, activities for the kids, health, fitness and vegan strength advice, guest speakers, food demonstrations, a vibrant fashion show. World Vegan Day is a very welcoming and supportive event, no matter what your dietary and lifestyle preferences are. It is a great opportunity for the vegan community to bring along family and friends, and it’s an excellent event for the vegan-curious to see first hand that living vegan starts on your plate, but expands much further than that. wvd.org.au

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Bendigo Heritage Uncorked 14 October - Various locations around Bendigo Bendigo Heritage Uncorked is a wine and food event with a difference. It is a moving, yes moving – like walking, feast of the Bendigo region. Your ticket is a special opportunity to taste the wines of the Bendigo region, matched with speciality food prepared by local chefs while strolling between seven stunning heritage buildings in Central Bendigo. It is an event with a relaxing pace, allowing you to stroll from one venue to the next when you are ready to discover more Bendigo wines, inspired food and grand gold rush architecture. Located within Central Bendigo, the seven venues are easy to walk between. At each venue you will get to experience Bendigo’s thriving foodie scene with entrée sized dishes developed specially for the day. Each ticket includes wine tastings, seven entrée sized speciality dishes, souvenir tasting glass, carry bag and guide book with walking map. Wines you enjoy on the day can be ordered from individual wineries or purchased from the Pop Up Wine Shop. Fastway Couriers Bendigo kindly provides free delivery for half-dozens or dozens purchased. Tickets from the Bendigo Tourism website. bendigotourism.com

Archie Rose Gin Dinner 28 October - Bohemian - 35 Dukes Walk South Wharf Enjoy an abundant Spring celebration, with a four course gin dinner as Bohemian head chef Gerard Curto showcases the best of Spring produce matched to gins from the acclaimed Sydney distillery, Archie Rose Distilling Co. You’ll sip and savour gins including the limited edition Horisumi-Spring, a collaboration with tattoo artist Horisumi, as well as the award winning Archie Rose Distiller’s Strength gin and Signature Dry Gin. A special Bohemian blend has been created for the evening as well as two spring gin inspired cocktails created by our head sommelier and former UK cocktail champion, Gavin Wraith. thebohemian.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au

Melbourne Oktoberfest 14 October - Melbourne Showgrounds In its seventh year, Oktoberfest in the Gardens hits Melbourne, Sydney, Perth and Adelaide in 2017, cementing its place as Australia’s biggest and best Oktoberfest celebration. Inspired by a love of the traditional Bavarian festival and great beer, Oktoberfest in the Gardens features two massive beer halls, authentic German food stalls, roving performers, sideshow alley, silent disco and an eclectic mix of entertainment and competitions across multiple stages throughout the afternoon and evening. Taste your way across Europe with a large selection of imported German beer, cider, wine and a range of other beverages. As an added bonus, your ticket to Oktoberfest in the Gardens includes a commemorative event stein (550ml) and can of German beer (or non-alcoholic alternative) on entry. Tickets on sale now: melbourne.oktoberfestinthegardens.com.au

ISSUE The silly season has hit again and boy, has it

come around fast! Don’t worry, we got you with Issue #77. In this edition, we’ll be all about Christmas – giving you all the recipes you need for the before, the during and the aftermath of the silly season. We’ll also arm you with some great foodie gift ideas for even the most discerning friend or partner, or even those fussy mums and dads. The secret: NO ONE doesn’t like a food-related gift! Keep an eye out for Gram – The Christmas Edition this coming December.