GRAM Magazine Issue 73 // JUNE 2017

GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 73 FREE

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CONTENTS FEATURE WINE + CHEESE: THE PERFECT PAIR 10

Megan Osborne

ON THE ROAD

RECIPES

THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

BBQ SHAPE CRISP WITH

48 HOURS IN RUTHERGLEN

JAMON IBERICO

22

ALMOND FETA

23

Lisa Holmen

INTERVIEW CHARCUTERIA WITH FRANK CAMORRA AND DAVID ROBERTS Lauren Bruce

18

14

REGULARS

HOW TO

BAKED ALMOND FETA WITH GNOCCHI AND NAPOLI SAUCE

23

CREATING THE PERFECT

CAPRESE SALAD

30

CHEESE BOARD Will Studd

26

CONTRIBUTORS

4

NOW OPEN

6

AROUND THE TRAPS THINGS WE LOVE

7 28

REVIEWS

32

OUT AND ABOUT

34

THE DIARY

35

HANGED CACIOCAVALLO WITH RED CABBAGE SALAD

30

ON THE COVER: CHARCUTERIE Charcuterie is the branch of cooking devoted to prepared meat products, such as bacon, ham, sausage, terrines, galantines, ballotines, pâtés, and confit, primarily from pork.

Charcuterie is part of the garde manger chef’s repertoire. Originally intended as a way to preserve meat before the advent of refrigeration, they are prepared today for their flavors derived from the preservation processes.

Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au

Jess Hourigan

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

EDITOR

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au

Lauren Bruce

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

www.grammagazine.com.au

3

CONTRIBUTORS It’s that time of year again, where we take stock of a crazy summer full of festivities and prepare ourselves for the

MEGAN OSBORNE

colder, darker winter months – pickling,

DEPUTY EDITOR

preserving, fermenting and taking our produce that little bit further.

It’s the perfect time of year to cosy up next to a fire with a glass of wine, and a spread of good cheese and charcuterie that’s bursting with flavour.

Many, if not almost all, of my best conversations are had when tucking into French cheeses, or Italian antipasto, or Spanish charcuteria alongside lots of different pickles, olives, pastes and good bread. I don’t know about you, but I don’t need much of an excuse before I’m

Megan Osborne is the GRAM Magazine deputy editor and a food-obsessed writer. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

sitting down with friends to a delicious array of meats and cheeses while we gasbag over a glass of something delicious or two (or three…).

This month, we explore what makes good charcuterie, as well as how to make a cheeseboard great. We’re also looking at wine pairings, and, on the other side of the spectrum, unorthodox ways to make cheese WITHOUT dairy products (gasp).

So grab a glass of something yum, swaddle yourself in a blanket and get stuck into #73 with us.

Lauren Bruce

LISA HOLMEN After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel.

EDITOR Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible.

lauren@grammagazine.com.au

DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee- obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars.

Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media.

Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.

INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com

lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

MIMI BIGGADIKE Mimi Biggadike is a professional chef and freelance journalist. After working as a food consultant, recipe tester and food writer in London for two and a half years, Mimi has set off around the world

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.

TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

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with an open mind (and mouth). Her skills include knitting, eating, cooking and getting herself into a lot of trouble with her monstrously loud laugh.

You’ll find her in cafes eating cake and writing about her life in the third person. bloggadike.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: bloggadike

burrata, mussel guazzetto & olive crumbs

#thatsamorecheese

www.thatsamorecheese.com.au

NOW OPEN PIQUANCY Hawthorn’s

new

Indian

restaurant,

Piquancy

-

meaning

a pleasantly sharp and appetising flavour - is set to live up to its name with an enticing mix of flavours and spices to transport diners to the streets of India.

The contemporary venue is brought to you by Mani Waraich and Ranjit Singh, the team behind St Kilda hotspot, Babu Ji. The pair’s Punjab family-orientated upbringings will also be at the forefront

RUSTICA SOURDOUGH HAWTHORN

of Piquancy.

We have a diverse menu and want people to experience all the

Melbourne’s leading bakery-café, Rustica will officially open the doors to its new Hawthorn location on Monday 8 May. Designed by architect Fiona Drago, Rustica Hawthorn features pastel tiles, marble surfaces, custom-made furniture, lighting pendants,

concrete

pillars

covered

in

greenery and a suspended timber ceiling.

“The north facing position has allowed lots of natural light to play with so coming into the cooler months it will still be bright,” says co-owner Brenton Lang.

Head chef and co-owner Tristan White has created dishes unique to the Hawthorn store,

including

shoulder

a

baguette

slow-roasted

lamb

with

lamb

tender

“In India, food brings people together and it puts a smile on

elements of a contemporary Indian meal.”

everyone’s faces. This is what we want to do at Piquancy,” Waraich says, “Fresh and local produce is paired with carefully thought-

The wine list has been put together by renowned sommelier Jeff

out recipes to make our customers feel special and at home.”

Sault, with a focus on local winemakers. A selection of 40 craft beers will also be available from a help-yourself beer fridge – the

The menu features Indian street foods such as yoghurt kebabs,

perfect complement to aromatic food.

pani puri and cheese dosa. Diners can also expect classic Indian dishes with rice, as well as healthier options like quinoa biryani

Piquancy also offers ticketed cooking classes for adults, where

or cauliflower rice to accompany the delicious curries, such as

attendees can learn how to bring Piquancy’s delicious flavours

achari pork chops, okra tikki and curried lamb shanks.

into their own cooking.

“We hope our venue will help shift the usual perception of Indian

Creating a ‘smile on a plate’, Piquancy delight in creating an

food, which is the typical curry and rice menu,” Waraich says.

experience that is an Indian home away from home in the heart

“When people talk about going to Piquancy, it’s a name that’s not

of Hawthorn.

obviously Indian, so people won’t have a preconceived opinion of the food. We want people to know they can order lighter street

123 AUBURN STREET, HAWTHORN

food dishes to share, and not fill up on just curry and rice dishes.

piquancy.com.au

marinated in rosemary and garlic and topped with cumin yogurt, red onion and

HANA

iceberg lettuce.

Another favourite is the Baba Ganoush served with grilled haloumi, roma tomato, poached eggs and greens. Coffee is by

Earlier this year Lang and co-owners Tristan White and Matt Vero sold Rustica Richmond to focus on the new Hawthorn us as their first pick. We liked the site’s potential for weekday trade with the nearby offices, and weekend trade with the residential community. It’s a good combo”,

Yarra’s Lilli Apartments, and most recently, Higher Ground on Lonsdale Street’s Upper West Side apartments.

Plans for further expansion of the Rustica Group are not too far away. Adding to its Fitzroy, CBD and now Hawthorn location, Lang has secured a site at the base of the Rialto Towers due to open in a few months.

121 POWER STREET, HAWTHORN rusticasourdough.com.au

6

rum tart and a decadent lime cheesecake.

Hana brings a touch of

Manabe, who was raised in Hawaii, was classically trained and

Hawaiian

Little

worked as Curtis Stone’s sous chef for four years in both the

Collins Street. Inspired by

United States and Australia, before collaborating with owner

the coastal town at the

Matteo Bruno on this lively project.

bliss

to

came to be after owner

Tiki cocktails take centre stage at Hana, and are named after

Matteo

(Meatball

beaches and waterfalls in Maui, such as the ‘Twin Falls Jungle

& Wine Bar) spent time

Bird’, or the ‘Honolua Bay Sharknado’, an electrifying mix of

exploring

dark rum, Cointreau, passionfruit, lime, orange and orgeat (a

Bruno the

wondrous

landscapes of the islands.

says Lang.

including Two Birds One Stone in South

leads the sweet offerings, accompanied by a pineapple and

even the darkest winter

eastern end of Maui, Hana

store. “Maple Development approached

partnering with residential developments

A Hawaiian favourite, Haupia, (a coconut milk-based dessert)

that’s bound to brighten day, new dining destination

Rumble Coffee Roasters.

Rustica joins the rise of café operators

Sporting a design aesthetic

sweet syrup, almost like liquid marzipan).

The Road to Hana traverses mountainous jungle and passes

The Hana Colada is set to be a stunner, made with coconut,

spectacular waterfalls, ultimately opening up to the coast where

freshly juiced pineapples and Jamaican rum. It can be sipped

dolphins and whales are easily spotted in the clear blue sea. The

as a single serve or upgraded to a ‘volcano’, for two to four

new venue embodies this playful spirit, making it ideal for all

people.

occasions, the perfect escape.

There’s also a sharp wine list based around natural, orange, bio-dynamic and precise minimal intervention wines

Hawaiian born Head Chef, Mario Manabe has created a menu that follows the seaside theme, focusing on raw seafood with just a

Once occupied by Hairy Canary, the site has been entirely

handful of the savoury options served hot.

transformed by Samantha Eades (refurbishment at Chin Chin, fitouts at Hawker Hall and The Meatball & Wine Bar on

Guests may choose to begin with individually portioned items,

Flinders Lane), who worked closely with Bruno and builders

such as mudcrab with tempura apple and ginger, or tapioca crisps

MIC Projects. Neon pink illuminates the ceilings and walls,

with poké, avocado and yuzu. But the real action begins with

interspersed with custom made Monstera-leaf wallpaper and

share plates; a seafood frenzy featuring dishes such as kingfish

pineapple shaped light fittings that lend a truly tropical vibe.

with jalapeno and lemon ice and snapper ceviche, kumquat, tigers milk or the grilled lobster with carrot and cardamom puree

212 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE

and pickled shitake.

hanarestaurant.com.au

AROUND THE TRAPS

SOFT SERVE WINE ICE CREAM Vinomofo is making enjoying wine just that bit sweeter with their limited edition soft serve “wine-scream”, debuting at this year’s Good Food & Wine Show.

Imagine a glass of premium European wine in one hand and a delicious tub of creamy, delicious wine-scream in the other. It’s the makings of any wine lovers dream!

QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET WINTER NIGHT MARKET RETURNS Wednesdays are about to get a whole lot warmer with the Queen Victoria Market’s Winter Night Market, returning every Wednesday from June 7 to August 30.

The theme this year is ‘Fire and Lights’, with the Market revealing an exciting new lighting concept including installations of large glowing neons and hazy red smoke.

The two delicious types of wine-infused frosty treats on offer are: - The Orgy soft serve wine-scream: a delicious GSM from McLaren Vale made by Vinomofo and the famous wine making brothers, Hither & Yon. - Fanny Limehead soft serve sorbet, a beautifully zesty riesling from Clare Valley made by Vinomofo and Penna Lane. It’s citrus, zesty and fresh.

Each wine-scream is gluten free, and the sorbet is lactose-free. Available each day at the Good Food & Wine Show, wine-loving mofos can get these delicious sweet morsels for free!

Open fires, quirky entertainment, 50 specialty stalls, and 30 global food traders are sure to ease the Melbourne winter chill.

Winter cuisine will be on show with traders serving up heart-warming dishes and drinks. MoVida’s Paco’s Tacos will be dishing up their famous Mexican street-style tacos along with char-grilled corn on the cob; Those Girls will be warming up market-goers bellies with Hollywood’s latest health food trend, Bone Broth. That’s Amore Cheese are creating a tasty new polenta dish served alongside their famous Parmigiano wheeltossed pastas.

The Fondue Corner will be taking us to the Austrian Alps with its famous cheeses; Savoyarde and Raclette Fondue. Churro Kitchen are offering deliciously naughty churro bowls and gooey marshmallow hot chocolates. Butterlake are also back, alluring market-goers with their decadent Taiwanese pancakes.

THE FOOD REPOSITORY FITZROY POP-UP STAYS OPEN UNTIL AUGUST

Mulled wine from ReWine will take up its iconic place at the market, along with Coldstream Brewery serving steaming cups of their hot cider from cauldrons of boozy joy.

Championing diversity and providing a unique opportunity to enjoy a cheery midweek event during the cooler months, the Winter Night Market is sure to sate Melburnians

Due to the overwhelming response to

looking for a place to escape the cold once again.

its pop-up store, The Food Repository owner Jony Marcelis has decided to keep

Cnr Queen and Therry Streets, Melbourne

its doors open until August, meaning

thenightmarket.com.au

Melbourne’s dedicated food-lovers can continue to appreciate a one-stop-shop for products from the metro and regional producers they love.

Originally from Belgium, Marcelis moved to Australia four years ago, working in finance before deciding to follow her passion for well-made food.

The Food Repository, an online store that highlights small producers, launched its

Marcelis handpicks each item stocked by The Food Repository for its sustainable

online presence in November 2016. After

production methods and delicious, natural ingredients. While she has put an emphasis

three successful months, Marcelis opened

on catering to a range of dietary requirements in her store, it’s also the place to find

her pop-up store in Fitzroy to bring

some more indulgent items, such as Fix & Fogg peanut butters and Four Pillars’

her love of small-batch, artisanal food

Breakfast Negroni.

producers to the masses. foodrepository.com.au

7

BRINGING YOUR KITCHE

EN DREAMS TO LIFE

www.chefshat.com.au

WINE + CHEESE

The perfect pair

WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE, MILK THE COW AND DAVID HYDE

Like two peas in a pod, wine and cheese were made for each other.

Carlton appeared in 2014. The selection is huge, with tastes ranging from

Soulmates, you could say, like Batman and Robin, Romeo and Juliet,

sweet to salty to extremely pungent and blue veins abundant (epic). The

peanut butter and jelly, cats and a Friday night in.

experience at Milk the Cow is even greater due to the cheese flights on offer, with boards matched with beverages ranging from wine, beer, cider,

While wine pairing often comes secondary to food and is chosen to

whisky, fortifieds, and even sake.

complement the edible, for this scrumptious selection we’re showcasing a range of Victorian wines, and picking the perfect cheeses to match

Lown has been working in cheese for 13 years, previously in the UK. When

the drops.

she arrived in Melbourne, Milk the Cow Owner Daniel Verheyen got in touch prior to opening the initial establishment. “I’m opening a fromagerie,

Laura Lown, Cheesemonger from Milk the Cow, helped us out with her

but it’s really unlike any other fromagerie”, Verheyen told Lown. She laughs

extensive collection and even wider knowledge base around the dairy

about her scepticism of being sold the dream, until she realised how fresh

delights. Impressing us with an array of cheeses from Spain, France, the

the concept was at the time.

Netherlands, USA and, closer to home, the Yarra Valley, we couldn’t have been more impressed by her pairings.

Having been a cheesemonger at Milk the Cow since day one, she’s seen the business evolve and expand the flights and offering, including reaching out

Milk the Cow first opened its doors in St Kilda in 2012 as a fromagerie

into masterclasses, catering, fondue nights, chef dinners and winemaker,

with a cellar door experience, and by popular demand, a second store in

brewer and distiller events. “Some would say I have a hard job,” Lown says,

10

sarcasm clearly apparent in the statement, and in the obvious enjoyment

THE PAIRINGS

she gets from being in the industry.

MONTARA - 2014 GOLD RUSH RIESLING While the majority of the offering at Milk the Cow is French, which Lown

Grampians, $23

attributes to coming from a country that’s been making cheese for

Paired with Midnight Moon, USA

centuries, 15% is Australian, which she considers quite an achievement

The Gold Rush Riesling by Montara in the Grampians is an off-dry soft style

given their process for selecting the product. “We really want to focus on

with forward, fruity flavours of lime, lemon rind and a talcy touch. Lown

top quality cheeses, and cheese you can’t just get everywhere,” Lown says.

recommends with the higher acidity found in Riesling; “It would be nice

Keep an eye out for the Norwegian Gjetost, a sweet caramelised whey that

to match it with something really clean, milky and silky, which is Midnight

Lown calls the ‘breakfast cheese’, and it goes brilliantly with coffee. Lown’s

Moon from America.”

tip for a unique and lovely, lesser-known cheese is the Fleur de Maquis from Corsica.

Midnight Moon is an aged goat’s milk gouda, and though the recipe is from the Netherlands, this one is produced in California. A sweet, mild and

When selecting these ten Victorian wines, we purposefully chose a range

milky cheese, it also holds floral and fruity tones that balance well against

in terms of style, region and price. While we don’t claim these to be the

the weight of the riesling, without overpowering, but rather enhancing the

best wines in Victoria - as we strongly believe wine is a subjective pleasure

aromatics.

to be enjoyed by each person individually - we do believe that if you enjoy a drop now and then, then there’s something for you in this list, and a darn

OAKRIDGE - 2014 864 CHARDONNAY, FUNDER & DIAMOND VINEYARD,

fine cheese to pair with your next bottle.

DRIVE BLOCK Yarra Valley, $78

“There’s no right or wrong,” Lown tells us, when it comes to cheese and

Paired with White Savourine, Yarra Valley, Australia

wine pairings. While there are guidelines to follow, there’s many different

Chief Winemaker at Oakridge, David Bicknell tells us that although the

paths to go down, she explains: “You can complement, cut through, or

Yarra Valley was historically a Cabernet region, “The best wines that have

contrast flavours.” A definite handy tip she shares is; “Whatever grows

been coming out of the valley consistently in the last ten years, have

together, goes together”, as well as thinking about other complementary

probably been chardonnay.” The Funder & Diamond is the highest of the

flavours: “If you’ve got a pinot noir which is like strawberries, put a cheese

vineyards at Oakridge, and Bicknell tells us, “It’s one of those just right

which is like cream, and it’s like you’ve created your own little dessert,”

scenarios: It faces north, it’s close planted, it’s mature, planted in 1990.”

she says.

11

The richness and depth of the Oakridge 864 Chardonnay makes it pretty

PATRICK SULLIVAN - PINK POUND ROSE 2016

special, with white stone fruits, flint and toast, to smooth vanilla, brioche

Elinbank & Taggerty, $30

and poached quince. “It’s the most important wine that we currently

Paired with La Tur, Italy

produce.” Says Bicknell.

Lown loved the description of Patrick Sullivan’s Pink Pound Rose, which states that the crisp drop is; “more flamboyant than Freddy Mercury”.

For the cheese, Lown chose the Yarra Valley White Savourine. “I’ve gone

“So what’s more indulgent than a blend of three milks?” says Lown. From

with that whole, whatever grows together, goes together.” She says. “It’s

Piedmont in Italy, this cheese gets richness from cow’s milk, nuttiness from

[the White Savourine] known for having this high acidity, and it’s really

goat’s milk, and sweetness from sheep’s milk. “Really, it’s like a cheesecake,”

nutty and toasty.” This complements the creamy nuttiness of the Oakridge

Lown laughs, stating it even looks like a little cupcake. The pinot noir is

Chardonnay, and holds it’s own against the stone fruit depth and weight.

pressed off early for a light colour, then a little gewürztraminer is added back in, with limited interference to preserve the integrity of the fruit in

YERING STATION - 2015 CHARDONNAY

this fresh rosé. Sullivan tells us it’s perfect drinking for a “Sunny day with

Yarra Valley, $40

oysters and cigarettes in SOHO”.

Paired with Queso de Cabra, Spain The Yering Station 2015 Chardonnay has a nose of stone fruits and sweet

POLPERRO - 2015 EVEN KEEL PINOT NOIR

spices, but it was the cashews that drew Lown’s attention, leading her

Mornington Peninsula, $35

to suggest the Spanish cheese, which is an: “Amazing aged goat’s milk

Paired with Beaufort d’Alpage, France

from Spain, called Queso de Cabra. It’s literally like brioche, cashew and

Another Pinot Noir from the Mornington Peninsula, the Polperro Even Keel

macadamia. So I thought, let’s play off the whole nuttiness,” says Lown.

Pinot Noir boasts cherries and raspberries alongside earthy notes, supple

With the creamy, mild palate and toasty vanillin spice of the wine, the

tannins and a fine acidity, with potential to cellar until 2018. “It’s really juicy

cheese is quite unctuous, she says, making a perfectly rich match.

but then it’s got a really fine texture,” says Lown. “Hill spice, bramble: It’s got so many characteristics going on. There’s this cheese which is a raw

BLUE RANGE ESTATE - 2015 PINOT GRIGIO

milk cheese from the Savoie; Beaufort d’Alpage.

Mornington Peninsula, $30 Paired with Buffalo Mozzarella, Italy

“Usually the French say when you try these styles of cheeses, you’re meant

The Blue Range Estate Pinot Grigio is medium bodied with strong aroma and

to pick up about 80 plus flavour characteristics. I thought there’s so much

taste of pear, with a crisp and subtle finish. Lown tells us that when it’s quite

going on in there, you need something which is going to stand up to it and

light in body, you want something texturally to balance that. Buffalo Mozzarella

not get lost.”

is rich and high in protein and fat, so it’s going to coat your palate nicely.

Lown explains that the cows feed in summer, digesting strawberries, “Because it’s so light, it [the cheese] should enhance the fact that the wine

buttercups, thistles, plums, daisies and raspberries, and apparently you

has amazing pear notes running through it,” Lown says. The crispness of the

don’t lose those flavours. “It’s big and bold… and very similar to everything

Pinot Grigio suits the young age of the cheese, which leaves it light and fresh,

going on in here [the wine]” she says. The cheese is smooth, not cheddary,

playing off each other well.

enhancing the fine tannins of the pinot.

12

TERINDAH ESTATE - 2013 SINGLE VINEYARD RESERVE PINOT NOIR

tannin sits hand in hand with red berries and liquorice, making a bright

Bellarine Peninsula, $80

but dense and complex red wine that can be cellared up to 2023.

Paired with Ossau Iraty, France The 2013 Single Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir from Terindah Estate has

While Lown admits that usually you may classically match gouda or

a rose and fruit aroma, followed with complex leather and mineral taste.

cheddar with a shiraz, the smokiness and suggested pairing with slow-

Classic pinot earthiness with savoury meat, cranberry, rhubarb and sweet

cooked meat led her to choose the Epoisses from France. Washed in

cherry combine with silky tannins in this light red wine.

brandy, it was created by monks as an alternative to meat. “So I thought let’s play on that, and match it with the cheese that tastes like charcuterie.

Lown has paired this drop with the Ossau Iraty from France. “Sheep’s milk

We used to nickname it the bacon cheese. It’s salty, silky, milky, full and big

is renowned for having a higher fat content in the milk, so you get this

and it’s really going to stand up to this Shiraz.”

smooth texture, this elasticity as it’s aged. But then you get this subtler caramel and green olive kind of nutty undertones coming through,” says Lown. With pinot noirs you’ve got to be careful, she informs us, to choose

SCION WINERY - 2014 SINGLE VINEYARD AFTER DARK (FORTIFIED

quite mild cheeses to ensure you don’t lose the body of the delicate wine,

DURIF)

and rather lift it.

Rutherglen, $29 Paired with Reypenaer V.S.O.P., Netherlands

MERRICK’S CREEK - 2015 RESERVE PINOT NOIR

Scion Winery in Rutherglen produces a delightfully smooth, single vineyard

Mornington Peninsula, $50

fortified durif called After Dark. Medium sweet, this style is inspired by

Paired with Brillat Savarin, France

south-eastern France and it can be served chilled or at room temperature.

Merrick’s Creek in the Mornington Peninsula boast some rather exceptional

Reminiscent of plum liqueur, fruit cake and chocolate; while sweet and

Pinot Noir. The 2015 Reserve is a cracker, with a bright red and purple

smooth, it’s not sticky or thick like other syrupy fortifieds.

colour and a bouquet of plum, spice and integrated oak, followed by an intense fruit flavour and long palate. The cheese pairing for this delightful

Lown is excited to tell us about this pairing. “There is this amazing cheese

pinot is the very famous triple brie from France, Brillat Savarin. With 85%

that people when they come in here, they fall in love with,” she says. The

fat, the cheese is “very rich and very morish,” says Lown, explaining that

two-year-old Dutch Gouda is called Reypenaer V.S.O.P…Although a blue

the spice, plum and cherry from the wine will work well with the earthy

would work well, this wild card is like butterscotch and caramel, a real

richness of the cheese.

dessert match”, says Lown. Side note: this cheese was the fast favourite for us.

ZONZO ESTATE - 2015 SHIRAZ Yarra Valley, $55 Paired with Epoisses, France

MILK THE COW

2015 was the first vintage of the Zonzo Estate wines, and what a

157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda

ripper it was. The Estate Shiraz is bold and velvety, and showcases

323 Lygon Street, Carlton

the attributes of a cool climate Shiraz really well. The fine persistent

milkthecow.com.au

13

THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED 48 HOURS IN RUTHERGLEN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA HOLMEN

Nestled in Victoria’s rugged north-east, Rutherglen is one of Australia’s

With a few wines under your belt, take a short detour to the Jones Winery

most loved wine and food destinations; yet it is a region which is largely

and Vineyard, where you’ll find the most charming heritage-listed building

unexplored by the masses. Perhaps most famous for its big red and fortified

with an adjoining art gallery. Owned by brother and sister team Mandy and

wines, Rutherglen is a destination which warrants a visit for so much more.

Arthur Jones, the winery (built in 1860) is one of the oldest and smallest in the Rutherglen area. Specialising in French cuisine, the restaurant has

The wonderfully historic wine region is home to 20 award-winning wineries

a refined, homely vibe. It’s the sort of place you dream of stumbling upon

and fantastic restaurants and cafes, as well as being an outdoor paradise

while road tripping through Provence.

for all its fishing, water sports and camping hot spots.

The dishes are all prepared with flair and finesse, concentrating on Whether you’re looking to cycle along Rutherglen’s famous historical rail

traditional French techniques and flavours. Think pork medallions teamed

trails, discover their world-famous muscat or treat yourself to some luxe

with apple and ginger puree, boudin noir crumble and green beans and

glamping, it really is a town that has it all.

confit duck Maryland with braised lentils, confit potato, red cabbage and orange salad. Hungry anyone?

Here’s a guide for the ideal food lover’s weekender.

No trip to Rutherglen is complete without a muscat tasting. And as far DAY ONE

as muscats go, Morris Wines is an essential stop for the muscat lover (or the soon to be converted). Morris Wines is one of Australia’s most iconic

After a three-hour drive from Melbourne, get your drinking boots on at

wineries with over 150 years of history and winemaking tradition. For five

Scion Vineyard. Located just south of the Rutherglen township, Scion

generations, the Morris family winemakers have been producing world

was established in 2002 and focuses on hand-crafting small-batch wines

class fortified and red table wines led by Muscat and Durif. Muscat is a

and shaping classic regional varieties of Durif, Muscat and Viognier into

wine style unique to Australia, made from Muscat à Petit Grain Rouge,

premium contemporary wines. Stop and have a chat at the cellar door with

known locally as Brown Muscat. To make such a rich wine, you need very

owner and winemaker Rowly Milhinch, whose winemaking style is inspired

ripe fruit, which makes the Rutherglen climate perfect for this kind of

by France and food pairings. At Scion, everything is done by hand and

grape. The muscats here range from bright, raisin-y sweetness in its youth

yields are low due to an emphasis on quality, not quantity.

to more intense, complex flavours as it ages. It’s the ideal after dinner wine, pairing perfectly with chocolate, fruity desserts or even a strong cheese.

15

Muscat has an incredible richness and intense flavour, which really lingers

by a continental or ‘cook your own’ style breakfast. Or, if you’re feeling lazy,

on the palate. There is a saying that “the first sip of Rutherglen Muscat is

let the experts do the work for you and enjoy breakfast at the charming

a memory that stays with a wine lover for life,” and I’d have to agree. Don’t

Pickled Sisters Café.

miss the barrel room here if you can get a sneaky peek.

After breakfast make your way to the picturesque Lake Moodemere Wrap up the evening with dinner at Thousand Pound wine bar, the latest

Estate. The Estate is owned and operated by sixth generation winemaker

venture of the Brown siblings and Denis Lucey of Melbourne’s Bottega

Michael Chambers and his wife Belinda. Enjoy a wine tasting in the cellar

Restaurant. It’s the kind of place you’d imagine being located in the heart

door before trying your luck at The Great Lake Moodemere Hole in One. If

of Melbourne with all its bar seating, wine barrels and cosy corners. Chef

you’re lucky, you could win $1,000 worth of wine!

Simon Arkless has crafted a brilliant produce-driven menu including bar snacks and shared plates. A definite highlight is the steaks grilled

Dine alfresco in the 100-year-old gardens overlooking the lake. Weekends

over charcoal, or you can skip straight to the cheese plate laden with

feature a Moodemere Lamb Special, or you can share a charcuterie plate

Woombye gold, Le Marquis chevre de Rambouillet, Blairlaith cheddar

laden with lamb terrine, formichi salami, prosciutto, and smoked trout. The

and quince.

estate grows its very own Moodemere premium, free-range Lamb, the fat marbling of which could be compared to that found in wagyu beef.

Sleep under the stars at the ultimate winery experience at Cofield Wines; Grapevine Glamping. Unwind with a glass of wine before bed while

Spend the afternoon exploring the Rutherglen region at a gentle pace.

camping at this winery and vineyard. This isn’t any average tent. The bell

Pick up a bike at St Leonard’s Winery and join the Pedal to Produce Cycle

tent is fully furnished with a king size bed (with the most comfortable

Trail to sample the very best wine, fruit and produce at local orchards,

pillows in the world), a fridge, board games and magazines, stargazing

wineries and cafes.

kit and fishing gear. There’s even a heater to keep you cosy in the winter months.

Dinner time? Finish your visit in style and dine at the Tuilleries Restaurant, or treat yourself to a degustation at Taste. If you’re after something a bit

DAY 2

more casual, takeaway some award-winning pies from Parker Pies.

There’s something about the great outdoors and sleeping under the stars

Discover Rutherglen’s Winemakers

that makes you feel closer to nature. Watch the sun rise over the vines

winemakers.com.au

before making a cuppa in Cofield’s very own Camp Kitchen, accompanied

16

Showcasing SOME of Australia’s independent breweries

BonE NtheD Ihop GO

26 AUGUST 20 BREWERIES, 40 BEERS tickets on sale from 1 june

www.bendigobeer.com

CHARCUTERIA WITH FRANK CAMORRA AND DAVID ROBERTS WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN BRUCE

It’s difficult to talk about Spanish food in Australia without uttering the

Born in Barcelona to Spanish parents before migrating to Australia and

name ‘Frank Camorra’. A Spanish food pioneer in this city, Camorra has led

growing up in Geelong, Camorra has dedicated his food career to bringing

the way in fostering the tapas tradition in Melbourne.

traditional Spanish cuisine to Melburnians and Melbourne visitors alike; a big part of which is focusing on Spanish-style charcuteria and smallgoods,

Camorra’s restaurants MoVida Original, MoVida Next Door and MoVida

or embutidos (Spanish for “cured sausage”).

Aqui reflect the vibrant food culture of Spain; not least of which is charcuteria and, in particular, jamon.

By his side in his culinary endeavours has been Dave Roberts, former head chef at MoVida Original, who after 13 years with MoVida, decided

When I head into MoVida Original to interview Camorra, he brings out

to venture into the world of smallgoods himself due to being dissatisfied

a selection of smallgoods for me to try that I’d be a fool to say no to.

with what was on offer locally. Roberts’ smallgoods company; Carne-Sal-

Tender and flavourful chorizo with a perfect fat-to-meat ratio tinged with

Tiempo (Spanish for “meat-salt-time”) supplies Camorra’s restaurants

a deep earthy red from Spanish paprika; Jamon Iberico de Bellotta with

with its embutidos.

a layer of fat like butter that is so delicious and unlike any other cured pork I’ve tasted before. Based purely on this experience, it’s easy to see why

Camorra and Roberts have a fairly traditional, pure approach to cured

Camorra is known for his charcuteria.

meats, and insist that when it comes to quality smallgoods, less is more.

18

“We do a mixed [charcuterie] board [at MoVida Aqui], but we prefer to sell it individually. The whole smallgoods board tradition isn’t particularly Spanish; I think it’s more a way to increase sales,” Camorra says. “But when you’re in Spain, you order chorizo or you order jamon. You don’t actually mix it together.”

Camorra says that instead of it being all about piling up your board with various meats, it’s all about the quality of the product.

This comes down to the quality of the meat, whether it’s made by someone who knows what they’re doing, and whether the meat is well-cured and well-aged.

Roberts agrees, conceding that having one great stand-alone meat product with accompaniments to balance it out is the way to go. “On the board, you’ve got to get the textures [right],” he says. “With the meat, you [should have] pickles, or anything that will cut through the fattiness and the different sorts of textures in the salamis.”

“It’s much more pleasurable to eat one really nice piece of meat, which is just the way I was brought up,” Camorra says. “It’s one really special thing, it’s a jewel, and you don’t need eight jewels on the plate.

It’s a bit too much bling. That’s how I think about food in general.”

“It’s much more pleasurable to eat one really nice piece of meat... It’s a jewel, and you don’t need eight jewels on the plate.”

Growing up in Australia, Camorra and his parents kept traditional Spanish food culture alive and well in their family, which might shed some light on why Camorra is so passionate about celebrating traditional

foods

and

methods

of

cooking

across

his

own

establishments. That said, Australiana culture still made its mark on Camorra’s family traditions.

“Dad cures his own ham. We’ve been doing it for years. And Mum always gets a plate of the cured ham and then chucks Barbeque Shapes with it. I don’t know why, but it’s just her thing!” He laughs.

When Italian restaurateur Massimo Bottura hosted a dinner in collaboration with Camorra and others at Pei Modern, Camorra decided to turn his mum’s comfort food snack into a tapa. “I made a dish playing around with that idea, our own version of Barbecue Shapes and jamon, which was pretty tasty,” he says. “[Bottura] made us put a narrative to the dishes [we created]. It had to be something that meant something to us, so I made this dish. It was served in the restaurant for ages.”

Camorra serves a variety of Roberts’ smallgoods in his restaurants, but also imports varieties of charcuterie from Spain. “Smallgoodswise, we’ve got jamon iberico; we’re using David’s fuet de anis, and we’re using salchichon, which is just a straight pork sausage but the Spanish version, with a bit of pepper and nutmeg. We’re using Spanish chorizo, which is [seasoned with] Spanish paprika and a bit of fino sherry. We’re serving marcon, which is usually made from large pieces of [pork] neck muscle. We do wagyu bresaola, which has also been on the menu forever and a day,” says Camorra.

19

Both Camorra and Roberts take their cured meats pretty seriously. When

The other distinctive feature about Spanish charcuteria is the natural

asked about what makes cured meat great, they cite everything from how

moulds that occur during the curing process. The sausage ferments the

much the muscle has been worked during an animal’s life, to what the

same way cheese does, with the natural mould giving the meat its unique

animal is fed as determining the flavour of the end result. “I’m a purist for

flavour.

what’s best quality,” Camorra says.

“Good jamon is basically cured naturally, with the windows open,” Camorra There’s no doubt Camorra and Roberts champion Spanish traditions when

says. “Most of the ibericas are still cured that way.”

it comes to cured meats. Camorra says the quality of the Iberian pork, the black pig that can be found along the Iberian coast in Spain and Portugal,

The jamon is refrigerated for a certain period, but after the ‘danger’ period

is first and foremost what sets Spanish cured meats apart.

(where the meat is stored at temperatures that cause the highest risk of it becoming inedible), the meat is exposed to natural ventilation. ”The

Another major difference, Camorra notes, is the paprika – or pimenton. “It’s

windows are opened up, and that natural ventilation gives the jamon its

the key Spanish ingredient,” Camorra says. “You can’t really cook [Spanish

natural flor,” Camorra says, referring to the ‘good’ bacteria that develops

food] without it.”

the flavour of the meat.

“With the meat, you [should have] pickles, or anything that will cut through the fattiness and the different sorts of textures in the salamis.”

Given that Camorra is surrounded by cured meat on a regular basis, he’d be forgiven for getting sick of it. But Camorra says there’s no denying the joy of great charcuteria.

There are different types of Spanish paprika prevalent in Spanish cooking

“Everyone leads busy lives. So having a really high quality, delicious thing

that are all on different parts of the flavour spectrum according to where

to eat, that’s no effort [other than] buying and slicing it, it’s great,” he says.

they are produced. Smoky la vera, which is “smoked because it’s so wet in the [region of Spain] its produced that they have to dry the peppers over

“If you’re entertaining, you’re taking all the effort out of making a really

fires”; says Camorra. Then there are the sweet and hot varieties such as the

nice dish. You have time to talk to your friends but you’re still serving

that of the Murcia region in Spain, a sweet and sour paprika traditionally

something that’s easy and good quality that everyone can enjoy… I think

used in chorizo. “Paprika is the standard ingredient in Spanish cooking.

that’s the appeal.”

Then spices like fennel seed, coriander seed are used. But every area in Spain has its specialty,” he says.

20

With over 14 years’ experience in the hospo industry, Chef Azem Dzevlan has cooked his fair share of French and Middle Eastern cuisine at Bistro Thieny, Maha, Le Bouchon and Smith + Singleton.

Now-finally-he’s got a little menu to call his own. The place is called Black Gold, a new cafe that’s making waves on Richmond’s trendy Lennox St. Dzevlan started up the new venue with his wife, Aisha.

The self-proclaimed travel-bugged foodie couple had been wanting to open a cafe for the last two years, and finally found the spot that ticked all their boxes.

Black Gold opened its doors for the first time in April.

The pair were inspired by a three-month gastronomy trip through Europe in 2016, visiting their favourite countries (especially the foodie ones).

The couple has gone out of their way to build a menu around absolutely top-notch ingredients, the finest produce from trusted local providers. As such it’s set to change seasonally, depending what’s fresh at the mar­ket, for maximum quality and flavour.

With dairy from the Yarra Valley, baked goods from Cobb Lane Bakery and organic cane sugar from Panela (trust us, it matters), you’re definitely getting your money’s worth at Black Gold.

Another thing: you won’t find common cafe meats like bacon and chicken on the menu. Instead, Azem and Aisha are kicking things up a notch with house-smoked salmon, air-dried wagyu and scrumptious smoked duck.

Living up to their exclusive name, Black Gold is one of the first cafes in Melbourne to offer a special blend of “black gold”, the Raspberry Candy from award­ winning ONA Specialty Coffee.

Black Gold is clearly off to a flying start-they sold out a heap of dishes on opening week-but the little selfish part inside us hopes it stays a Richmond secret for a while yet.

With food like this? Fat chance.

FRANK CAMORRA’S BBQ SHAPE CRISP WITH JAMON IBERICO Camorra came up with this tapa recipe during a collaborative dinner at Pei Modern with Massimo Bottura, after Bottura asked his fellow chefs to come up with a dish based on a narrative that meant something to them.

This is Camorra’s take on one of his mother’s favourite snacks: jamon iberico with the classic Aussie BBQ Shape.

Please note: The tomato powder is made from dehydrated tomatoes and can be found at Essential Ingredient.

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

200g potato flour

1. Mix together all dry ingredients except tomato powder together.

Salt, to taste

2. Add boiling water and mix quickly to form a smooth paste.

350ml boiling water

3. Spread on a non-stick baking paper, 2-3mm thick.

50g sesame seeds

4. Bake at 130C until crisp for approximately 45 minutes.

50g sunflower seeds

5. Once cooked, portion into 4cmx4cm rough squares and dust with dried

5g onion powder

tomato powder. Top with jamon iberico and serve.

Tomato powder, for dusting

22

ALMOND FETA Vegans rejoice, the search is over! Mimi Biggadike uncovers a baked almond feta recipe you can preserve with olive oil!

All thanks and praise go to the folk at Sister of Soul, St Kilda where we met

dairy cheese from scratch – with only a few hours’ work you can have this

with the owner Daniel Clerici to talk about this nuttiest of cheeses. Daniel

meal completed and on the table impressing your friends in no time.

saw a niche for a good, wholesome, clean-eating restaurant in St Kilda back in 2015 and has since proved his hunch with the uproariously busy

Almond Feta

Sister of Soul.

INGREDIENTS: 150g raw almonds

The establishment serves breakfast, lunch and dinner to hungry hoards

50g raw cashews

seven days a week. With a totally vegetarian menu, strong ethical sourcing

60ml lemon juice

of ingredients and a policy of making as much as possible in-house, it’s not

2 tsp salt

hard to see why the masses are flocking.

1tsp sugar 1.5 tsp savoury yeast flakes

The restaurant also upholds principles about the ethical treatment of

150ml water

animals, as they explain in large capital letters on their outside wall: ‘Animals

60ml olive oil

are my friends... And I don’t eat my friends’. Thankfully, you don’t have to kill a nut in order to eat it, all that’s necessary is a little soak overnight in a

METHOD:

bath and you’re ready to go!

1. Line a 20x20cm tray neatly with baking parchment and pour in the mix 2. Cover the nuts with cold water and leave overnight to soak.

This almond feta ‘cheese’ is divine. The recipe has been researched,

3. Drain and then pop them in the blender along with all the other

sampled and tried out with different blends and combinations before

ingredients. Blitz until silky smooth.

finally a recipe was found which recreated the taste and texture of dairy

4. Pour out the mix into the tray making sure to level it out, bake at 180

feta, only it’s sourced from entirely plant-based ingredients.

for 35-40mins until firm and just starting to colour.

5. Once cool, you can begin to portion it out. If you’re able to not scoff

The almond feta enjoys such popularity at Sister of Soul that Daniel ponders

the lot immediately, it preserves beautifully well in olive oil.

whether he’ll soon have to offer it for home sale. In the time leading up to this eventuality, we’ve got you covered with the following recipe.

INFUSION INSPIRATION Find yourself a jar, cut the feta into chunks and cover in olive oil and maybe

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT WHY IT WORKS

one of the following:

The lemon splits the fat in the milk in the same way that rennet does for traditional dairy cheeses. It’s a great little trick, adding half a squeezed

SIMPLE AND DELICIOUS: Oregano, rosemary or chilli

lemon to 250ml of any nut milk (or indeed soya, rice etc) to give you

SOMETHING SWANKIER: Lemon myrtle and garlic or bay leaves, mustard

instant ‘buttermilk’. It’s also quicker and cheaper than making traditional

seeds and pink peppercorns.

23

Never waste the oil from these infusions. It can be used to flavour your

Napoli Sauce

dishes further, whether it be to sauté your gnocchi quickly after cooking or

INGREDIENTS:

to fry off the onions and garlic for the risotto you’ll later be crumbling your

2tbsp olive oil

feta over.

1 x 400g can whole peeled tomatoes 1 onion

MAKING A MEAL OF IT

2 cloves of garlic

Baked Almond Feta with Gnocchi and Napoli Sauce

1 tsp salt

Gnocchi

1/2 tsp raw sugar

(Generous portions for 2)

1/2 tsp dried basil

INGREDIENTS:

1tsp balsamic

200g potatoes

Fresh basil for garnish

140g plain or 00 flour 1tsp Dijon mustard

METHOD:

1tsp sea salt

1. Blend your onion and garlic in a food processor until roughly chopped,

1/2 tsp savoury yeast flakes

add to a deep frying pan with the olive oil and sweat them for a couple of minutes without colouring them.

METHOD:

2. Simply add the rest of the ingredients to the pan and bring to simmer,

1. Dry roast your potatoes whole for an hour at 180 degrees. Once cooked,

leave for 5 minutes to quietly bubble.

leave to cool and then scoop out the insides, discard the skins.

3. Bend it all up into a smooth sauce. Transfer back into the pan on a very

2. Add the mustard, salt and yeast flakes and mash until smooth. Add 100g

low heat (you can make your sauce whilst your potatoes are roasting in

of your flour and start kneading in the bowl to combine. Tip the remaining

the oven. I leave it to bubble after blending to strengthen the flavours and

flour on your worktop along with your dough and knead further until it’s

then add the gnocchi straight into the sauce after they’ve boiled. If you do

smooth and malleable.

this, you can skip out the ice water stage).

3. Pop a large pan of salted boiling water on the stove on a medium heat.

4. Transfer into your favourite bowl, crumble 2 tablespoons of the feta

4. Cut into 8 portions and roll each out into a sausage about the thickness

over with a good glug of olive oil, some freshly ground black pepper and

of your thumb. Cut each sausage into 2-3cm nuggets. Once you have all

a slight handful of fresh basil.

your potato nuggets cut, transfer them into your pan. They are cooked once they float to the top, scoop them out at this point with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl of ice water to stop them cooking and prevent them from going mushy.

24

BRINGING YOUR BRAND TO LIFE

FOOD, BEVERAGE & RETAIL ACTIVATIONS

Combining creative ideas, technology, design & excellence in activation fit-out using recycled shipping containers.

www.shippingcontaineractivation.com.au 25

26

CREATING THE PERFECT CHEESEBOARD Will Studd reveals all you need to know about making a cheeseboard great.

When it comes to putting together a great cheese board, the [essential] thing is obviously the cheese. That’s the hardest bit and the most fun bit. All the best and most interesting cheeses tend to be influenced by the seasons, and that means going to your local cheese maker or cheese shop and finding out what they recommend.

Find a cheese shop/cheese maker you trust, and find a cheese you trust and know something about.

WHERE TO FIND YOUR CHEESE

I’m not against biscuits; I think they’re really convenient, but their texture

Sure you can go to the local supermarket, but cheeses there tend to be

tends to battle it out with the cheese. If you’re going to have biscuits, I

much more predictable. In Melbourne, in Victoria, I would go to a farmer’s

would try an oatmeal biscuit, which is a traditional way to go. I don’t like

market or any of the markets; there are good cheese retailers in all of

the very wafer-thin things that crack and break when you put the cheese

the markets in Melbourne. There’s nothing quite like meeting the people

onto them.

producing the cheese to convince you that you’re eating the best cheese of your life!

There’s no right and wrong with accompaniments. If quince paste turns you on, then go for it. It’s worth remembering that the idea of serving any

WILL’S TOP THREE LOCAL CHEESES

sweet jam or quince paste with cheese is to help bad cheese taste better.

I love the cheese from Holy Goat, they’re fantastic. If I were to go to a farmer’s market, I’d go straight for the Holy Goat stand. I love their La

DON’T GO OVERBOARD

Luna because it’s got a beautiful rind on the outside… They’ve mastered

Get something between one and five cheeses for your board. Don’t be

the art of growing that very special type of mould, which looks like coral

lured into the idea that you need to have more than that, because one or

on the outside, and it’s got this wonderful yeasty flavour. It’s a mould

two great cheeses is better than five or more mediocre ones.

that’s normally found in raw milk but it’s possible to create on pasteurised cheese. It’s a pretty special cheese.

WINE PAIRING Different types of cheese require different types of wine–for example, blue

I’ve also been enjoying the Venus Bay Blue, which is a cheese from Prom

cheeses really don’t work with a red wine. It can get complicated when

Country Cheese, down near Wilson’s Prom. It’s a ewe’s milk cheese. They’ve

really, the joy of a cheese board is that it’s something simple to share with

got that wonderful balance of salty blue flavours and lovely rich aftertaste

your friends and guests. You don’t want to get into, “Oh, this cheese will

that comes from using ewe’s milk.

go with this sauvignon blanc” or, “This blue cheese will go with this sticky wine” and, “I’ve gotta eat the cheese and drink the wine in this order.”

The third would be the cloth-bound Annie Baxter from Shaw River. That’s a hard buffalo cheese. It’s quite special because it’s cloth-bound which

White wines usually go better with cheese than reds, which surprises many

allows it to breathe. Buffalo milk is interesting because it’s rich but it has a

people. Generally speaking, a dry white would go well. Some people really

slightly mossy aftertaste, grassy, like the pasture.

enjoy a sticky dessert wine with cheese. Champagne also goes remarkably well with cheese, a parmigiano reggiano, for example.

WHAT TO SERVE IT WITH If you’re a purist, it’s definitely bread and a French baguette. A sourdough

SIMPLE IS BEST

also works really well. But if you’re serving blue cheese, rye bread works

I think one wonderful cheese that you can talk about, that you know

really well too.

something about, a cheese you can really appreciate, is far better than a whole bunch of cheeses just put out to impress people.

27

THINGS WE LOVE

EAT DIRT, FEEL GREAT: EDIBLE MUD

DALMATIA

Clay-based beauty has gone next-level with My Ultimate Detox

Nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean of the edge of the dazzling

(MUD) officially launching Edible MUD.

Adriatic is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets – the spectacular Dalmatian coastline of Croatia.

Made from food-grade 100% Australian Bentonite Clay, Edible MUD can be mixed with water, smoothies or used in cooking to support

A region defined by the sea, rambling vineyards and olive groves, it

the body’s gut health.

is home to some of the country’s most treasured dishes with flavours

Founders of MUD, Caitlin O’Farrell and Rosemary Jonas, first came

reminiscent of Greek and Italian food… but with an identity all its own.

across the benefits of Bentonite Clay while working their highly stressful, corporate jobs.

At its heart, Dalmatian cuisine is frugal, honest and rustic; with distinctive flavours including silverbeet, varenik (grape molasses)

“We were looking for a way to unwind and relax after a hellish day of

and prošek (Dalmatian fortified wine), telling the region’s unique

back-to-back meetings at the office. With long hours, desk lunches

story.

and all-weekend partying, it’s fair to say we were burning the candle at both ends,” O’Farrell says.

In his first book, Ino Kuvačić captures the charm of his beloved native home, celebrating the food traditions, hospitality and signature

O’Farrell and Jonas started their business after experimenting with

purity of this magical place.

the idea of detox baths to help the body sweat out toxins through the pores using the powerful Bentonite Clay topically.

With chapters covering vegetables and salads, meat dishes, fish and seafood and sweets, Dalmatia reveals over 100 authentic recipes

Then they started noticing articles raving about the health benefits

such as pašticada (slow-cooked beef cheeks), Brujet (Dalmatian fish

of ingesting the clay. “After trying a two-week detox, drinking the

stew) and Torta Malcarana (almond cake from Makarska).

pure Bentonite Clay daily, I couldn’t believe how much better I felt: no more bloating and way less brain fog,” says Jonas.

Accompanied by stunning local photography of both the region and the culinary experiences and traditions it offers, Dalmatia will

28

Edible MUD is available via O’Farrell and Jonas’ online store:

transport you to the sparkling coastline of Croatia from your own

www.mudmudmud.com

kitchen.

NICK HADDOW – MILK MADE At a time where real cheese everywhere is under pressure from industrialised agriculture, Milk Made is your definitive guide to making the right choices about the cheese you buy and eat.

Embarking on a mission to close the gap between farm and cheese, Haddow celebrates centuriesold traditions of cheese-making and sheds a light on how these traditions are applied today.

Haddow is the brains behind the revered Bruny Island Cheese Co, so he knows a thing or two about cheese. In Milk Made, he shares this knowledge about making, serving and storing cheese at home, and includes 75 delicious recipes all built around your favourite foodstuff to boot; including a delicious saag paneer, or the perfect fondue.

Accompanied by photographer Alan Benson, Haddow documents his visits to internationally renowned cheesemakers across the globe from Australia to Europe to the US.

If cheese is your thing, Milk Made is a good place to start.

30

CAPRESE SALAD This classic dish from That’s Amore is super easy to make and captures the very essence of Italian food – a combination of simple, balanced, good quality produce that, when put together, is absolute magic.

Serves: 10 INGREDIENTS: 2 tomatoes 1 fresh That’s Amore Fior di Latte mozzarella ball or Buffalo Mozzarella Handful fresh basil leaves 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste METHOD: 1. Thickly slice the tomatoes and the mozzarella, overlapping alternating slices of each on a serving plate.

2. Tuck the whole basil leaves in between the tomato and mozzarella slices, then drizzle over the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

HANGED CACIOCAVALLO WITH RED CABBAGE SALAD Caciocavallo is a Southern Italian stretched-curd cheese made out of sheep’s or cow’s milk, similar in taste to Provolone cheese.

That’s Amore share with us a beautiful and simple dish that could be served for a light lunch or dinner, or any time of day, really – because who’s going to say no to melty, gooey, delicious cheese on bread?

Serves: 4 INGREDIENTS: 1 red cabbage 1 That’s Amore Caciocavallo 4 slices of any bread you like (we used a sourdough loaf from our local bakery) 1 bunch parsley Extra virgin olive oil White wine vinegar METHOD 1. Cut the red cabbage very finely in order to get very thin slices (spaghetti-style).

2. Add chopped parsley, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and vinegar to taste.

3. Hang Caciocavallo over a barbecue flame and let it melt. Alternatively, slice it thickly and fry the slices in a pan until melted.

4. Carefully place the melted Caciocavallo onto the bread and serve with the red cabbage salad.

31

REVIEWS PROMISED LAND COFFEE - HAWK BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

For those of you who don’t know your bible stories,

Promised Land has already made a name for themselves

The Promised Land was a covenant between God and

with their delivery service, bringing airpots filled with

Abraham, first mentioned in the book of Genesis. It

fresh filter coffee to workplaces and cafes each day,

would take a great journey and the ability to overcome

now adding espresso options for those wanting the full

adversity for his people to eventually settle there. It was

package.

to be a place of security and hope and somewhere to build a nation. So when husband and wife Jonathon and

Roasting is done three days a week and the coffee is

Erin Sciola – who both pastored a church in the Northern

micro-lot, truly specialty and always aged eight days.

suburbs – decided to start their coffee business, they

Because the grinder requires far less adjustment, the

knew exactly what they wanted to call it.

customers experience an unparalleled consistency in their cup. Their Hawk blend is predominantly comprised of a

The Hawk blend is available at: Mock Turtle - 34 Degraves St CBD Edamama - 727 Collins Street Docklands The Village Food Store - 126A Canterbury Rd Heathmont www.promisedlandcoffee.com

The name is representative of their journey, one that has

natural Honduras with some washed Colombian, resulting

its own challenges in a saturated market. It is a quest to

in a balanced brew with a sweet citrus acidity. It’s bright

provide cafes with exceptional quality and service in order

enough to get your taste buds tingling, but still rich and

to create a good life for themselves and their children.

smooth with a medium-caramel body.

Sciola had been working at St Ali as an account manager,

Wanting to buck the trend of dark-roasted, Italian-style

looking after 50 venues across the brand’s portfolio,

coffee in tourist-driven Degraves Street, the owners

training baristas, running cupping sessions and working

of Mock Turtle wanted to offer a blend that was more

in the roastery. He also helped set up a number of cafes

relevant to Melbourne’s coffee drinkers – and Hawk

which gave him an insight into what the owners actually

suits them perfectly. They choose to prepare it on a La

needed.

Marzocco for consistency and reliability.

According to Sciola, specialty coffee can’t stand alone;

With an eye on current trends and promoting themselves

it’s the product of many things. Like life, the journey from

as a healthy cafe with raw, gluten free and vegan options,

crop to cup has many speed bumps along the way and

Mock Turtle operates in a very busy Melbourne laneway,

while there may be a plan, things can go wrong. Baristas

so knowing they have Sciola’s support and expertise any

want to create the perfect coffee, but if they aren’t using

time of day is very reassuring.

the right equipment or have a lack of support, the end result will be sub-standard.

We have the privilege of being inhabitants of the world’s most liveable city, and know that Australia is an amazing

Understanding coffee with a crazy amount of knowledge

place to call home. This is our promised land, and we

of the science behind coffee and the technical aspects

deserve to drink only the best coffee. Thanks to passionate

required to produce it, Sciola delivers a level of customer

people like Jonathon and Erin Sciola, we always have that

service and product knowledge that is very rare in the

opportunity.

industry.

ASTRO BUNNY PET-NAT WORDS LAUREN BRUCE It’s easy to be charmed by Pet Nat-style wines. Their

The delicate fruity flavours reflect the colour of the drink

primary fermentation process is finished off in the bottle,

– a peachy, muted colour. This light pink hue, along with

which results in a deliciously light sparkling effect that

the gentle bubble, makes this an appealing drink inside

makes for super easy drinking. A more rustic sparkling

and out.

than champagne, the Pet Nat is perfect for those seeking something a little different.

Astro Bunny Pet-Nat RRP: $34.00

Deliciously creamy with a dry minerality that crisps up the wine significantly, the Astro Bunny Pet-Nat is full of apricot and peach flavour, the stonefruit hitting you almost straight away. Citrus, particularly grapefruit and orange, are in the mix as well, freshening up the wine.

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www.ravensworthwines.com.au

BAR/D UP REVIEW: POLLY In recent years, bar-hoppers have

Pizza, tapas and bar snacks keep

been flocking northside to experience

everyone happy, and the charcuterie

great bars close to the city and the

board is brilliant with a bottle of wine

surrounding suburbs, particularly in

to start the night. Once you’ve settled

Fitzroy; but way back in 2000, a new

in, you’ll never want to leave – and

and very different place called Polly

why would you when the atmosphere

opened up, setting the benchmark

is so special? If you feel like ending

for future bars in the area with great

your experience here like a boss, order

service and high-end cocktails.

a cigar from the humidor, sit outside and disappear under a veil of smoke

Recline on the plush velvet couches

as you plan your next visit… because,

and sip slowly on your beverage

regardless of how long it takes you,

surrounded by voluptuous rubenesque

Polly will be there waiting just as she

women adorning the walls in antique

always has.

gilded frames. Order an absinthe

Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video review

fountain and watch as the liquid drips

POLLY

gently over the sugar cubes and the

401 Brunswick Street

stresses of the day just melt away.

Fitzroy

Prefer a cocktail? You’re totally spoilt

Ph: 9417 0880

for choice as, since day one, the bar

pollybar.com.au

has been serving up serious drinks.

This is why over fifteen years since its inception, Polly remains a Melbourne institution.

VALHALLA BREWING WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON

Dedicated craft beer lovers are small in number compared to the wider beer community, but they are very vocal and not afraid to put their hand in their pocket to try something before anyone else. So when Torquay home brewer Scott Hunt launched an online crowdfunding campaign in early 2016 to kick off with a 7% Black IPA named Obsidian, he had no shortage of new investors.

With the impressive success of Obsidian, you’ll be pleased to know Valhalla now run independently, and can be found most weeks at Red Duck Brewery in Ballarat, pumping out a diverse and impressive core range of beers.

Apart from Obsidian (which is drinking really well right now), you’ll find a beer to suit most palates, with a special tip of the Bandwagon hat to the Illywhacker Australian Pale Ale. It’s a great example of how Galaxy, Topaz and Ella hops can work together while its malt base ensures you can enjoy a solid session.

If you’re a David Bowie fan that thinks outside the box, the Ziggy Stardust session Red IPA is one that teases your palate and matches food across a broad range of cuisines. Then of course you have the Aragon IPA for hopheads, and Fenix Belgian Ale for those new to

Look out for a brand-spanking-new Valhalla Brewery on the Surf Coast somewhere over the next 12-18 months; but in the meantime, you can find Valhalla beers all over Melbourne and regional Victoria at good beer venues and bottleshops. Skoll!

ORIGIN: Torquay (via Bendigo) BREWED: Red Duck, Ballarat BUY IT HERE: valhallabrewing.com.au

the craft beer world.

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OUT AND ABOUT

GREG MALOUF AT CURLY WHISKERS PHOTOGRAPHY DS IMAGES - DEAN SCHMIDEG

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In a one-night-only experience, Brighton crêperie Curly Whiskers hosted an intimate dinner with worldrenowned chef Greg Malouf. Malouf prepared a four-course Middle Eastern feast and spoke about leaving his home in Melbourne to open his latest venture, Zahira in Dubai.

THE DIARY

June 17 - 18, 2017

TRUFFLE MELBOURNE Queen Victoria Market

Inspired by European truffle celebrations, Truffle Melbourne Director and truffle grower Nigel Wood first introduced Melbourne to the world truffle festival stage in 2014. Three short years later Truffle Melbourne is now the largest truffle festival weekend outside Europe! Celebrating Australia’s new found place as the fourth largest truffle growing nation, Truffle Melbourne’s aim is to demystify the truffle and bring you unique winter food and wine experiences.

June 10 - 12 - Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend

HEATHCOTE ON SHOW FESTIVAL June 16 - 25, 2017

Heathcote, Victoria

Daylesford, Victoria

The central Goldfields town of Heathcote is readying for its annual wine and food festival, a three-day event that offers visitors the opportunity to sample the region’s very best award winning wines.

DAYLESFORD MACEDON PRODUCE HARVEST FESTIVAL

During the winter black truffle season, join truffle growers across the country, Australia’s best truffle chefs and the finest food and beverage producers to celebrate the delights of the truffle. Truffle Melbourne presents an event program unlike any other and last year 32,000 guests enjoyed one or more of our events.

Australia’s most dynamic and picturesque food and wine region will again host its famous Harvest Festival from June 16 to 25, 2017. The festival is a celebration of the harvest of Central Victoria, showcasing the region’s abundant food and wine, and celebrating the best of our producers, farmers, provedores, restaurateurs and vignerons.

Truffles are an accessible seasonal luxury and the perfect flavour enhancer for their food and drink companions. Everyone starts their truffle journey in a different place: a great truffled pizza, an exquisite truffle dish at a restaurant, experimenting at home with fresh truffle and truffled scrambled eggs for breakfast. Truffle Melbourne peels away the mystique and shares truffle stories, secrets and tastes.

The Daylesford Macedon Region, widely known throughout Australia for its diversity of high-quality produce and vibrant food culture, and for being one of Australia’s most dynamic and picturesque food and wine regions, will throw open its doors to the public once more.

In 2017 you’ll find a program of exceptional truffle experiences, as well as an “everything truffle” retail and online store. The festival is working with truffle produce makers in Australia and around the world to bring you the best from Italy, France, Spain, the US and Australia. trufflemelbourne.com

The Festival hosts events for everyone from culinary tourists, to families, nature enthusiasts, the local community and industry professionals.

Authentic experiences from farm visits, gardening talks, and classes on everything from sausage making to bee keeping; to special winemaker and chef’s dinners and classes, are designed to inspire, provoke thought and take our visitors on a path of self-discovery.

Visitors are encouraged to visit farm gates and cellar doors throughout the region, take advantage of the many special harvest week offers, shop with the locals at the farmers markets, or taste their way around the region by visiting our many varied cafes and restaurants.

More than 40 winemakers will be on hand for winery tours, winemaking classes and with 30 cellar doors, plenty of opportunity to sample and buy award winning wines, museum releases and many new white and red varietals.

Enjoy many food and wine locations offering cheese, olives, antipasto platters and winter favourites plus live music. You can also BYO a picnic and enjoy the views and beautiful surroundings the wineries offer.

Throughout the long weekend, many wineries also take the opportunity to launch their new release wines. Whilst Heathcote is renowned for its premium Shiraz wines, it is also home to many other red and white varietals harvested from its famous ancient red Cambrian soils. The heritage town’s many restaurants and cafés are also gearing up to create menus using homegrown regional produce to create a variety of culinary dishes designed to please the most discerning gourmand.

Add to that a variety of musical events, arts and crafts and kiddie’s amusement and you have a real family festival weekend. The local Market will be held on Saturday 10 June and the High Street will have vintage cars on display, pony rides, face painting and the petting zoo full of baby animals for the kids.

Transport to Heathcote will be made available with Shuttle buses operating excursions from the town centre to the region’s wineries and cellar doors throughout the long weekend.

Lock away the weekend now and contact the Heathcote Visitors Centre (03) 54333121 for more information and accommodation options, or check out heathcoteonshow.com.au for what’s on show and for all booking details.

dmproduce.com.au/dmpharvest-festival

June 25, 2017

ITALIAN FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Royal Exhibition Building, Carlton Gardens

Everything that’s good about eating and drinking in Italy comes together under one roof in June with the second Melbourne Italian Wine + Food Festival.

Journey through Italy with over 200 wines to taste, meet winemakers and importers, or attend an Italian wine masterclass. Feast on pizza, pasta and Italian snacks in pop-up restaurants, while Melbourne’s top Italian chefs share their joy for cooking on the main stage.

Taste your way through the Italian Market - salumi, cheese, pasta, gelato and more. Sip on an authentic Italian cocktail from the Negroni Bar and relax in one of the festival wine gardens.

June 10, 2017

June 10 -12, 2017

Captain Baxter - 10 - 18 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda

Mornington Peninsula

A variety of gin for an exclusive dining event celebrating World Gin Day. Bespoke gin producers will come together to present a Gin masterclass at Captain Baxter.

The Winter Wine Festival - an exhibition and tasting which traditionally marks the beginning of the extensive Winter Wine Weekend program. One place, on one day.

All undercover, where you can taste more than 200 premium wines from around 50 wineries.

Tickets include all tastings, Riedel wine glass, tasting book which includes all wines on exhibition and two entree size dishes.

A VARIETY OF GINS

This ginstronomy masterclass will showcase Australian boutique gins and how they pair with the exquisite food by Captain Baxter.

Proudly presented by Smeg, the festival is all about celebrating wine, food and culture together in inimitable Italian style.

Includes cocktails and canapes on arrival, threecourse sit-down dinner with matched gins.

italianwinefoodfestival.com.au

facebook.com/CaptainBaxter

WINTER WINE WEEKEND

mpva.com.au/events/detail/WinterWine-Weekend

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