GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 71 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
CONTENTS FEATURE
EATING OUT THE HUMBLE HOT CROSS BUN
WHOLEMEAL HOT CROSS BUNS
GUILT FREE FISH ON GOOD FRIDAY 10
Bec Thexton
Charley May
REGULARS
RECIPES 22
Bec Thexton
12
CONTRIBUTORS
4
NOW OPEN
6
AROUND THE TRAPS A YARRA VALLEY EASTER WEEKEND 18
Lisa Holmen
TSOUREKI BREAD AND BUTTER
INTERVIEW
PUDDING Philip Vakos
MÖRK CHOCOLATE
16
PHILIP VAKOS | BAHARI 28
Lauren Bruce
Megan Osborne
14
GIFT GUIDE EASTER GIFT GUIDE FOR FOODIES
26
7
THINGS WE LOVE
28
REVIEWS
33
THE DIARY
35
ARROZ CALDOSO WITH WILD YABBY AND SEAWEED Charley May
24
HOT CROSS CHOCOLATE Josefin Zennell
32
ON THE COVER: EASTER EGGS Easter eggs, also called Paschal eggs, are decorated eggs that are usually used as gifts on the occasion of Easter or springtime celebration. As such, Easter eggs are common during the season of Eastertide (Easter season). The oldest tradition is to use dyed and painted chicken eggs, but a modern custom is to substitute chocolate eggs wrapped in colourful foil, or plastic eggs filled with confectionery such as chocolate. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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Jess Hourigan
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EDITOR
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Lauren Bruce
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
www.grammagazine.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS Ah, Easter. A time of joy, contemplation, and utterly overindulging in chocolate; thus undoing all your good post-Christmas diet work. The chocolate egg is, of course, the first thing on everyone’s minds when they think of what to consume around Easter. I myself am extremely partial to classic Easter fare such as the humble Crème Egg (RIP Dairy Milk-covered Crème Egg–I will have to make do with your poorer compound chocolate cousin), or Darrel Lea’s nougat egg, which I always eat in one sitting–a move that
MEGAN OSBORNE Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine— she’s not fussy.
is always swiftly regretted. As a privileged youth, nothing brought me more joy than the chocolate egg hunt. My
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
younger brother and I would scramble around plucking eggs off mantelpieces and out of cupboards and then at the end, I would make sure that we had a completely even split of the goodies. No one was getting more Crème Eggs than I; not on my watch. But there is so much more to Easter feasts than just chocolate. Tsoureki, the delicious brioche-like bread decorated with brightly coloured eggs, is an Easter staple in Greek culture; rosquillas–fried donuts–are a delicious Spanish Easter treat; Sweden is all about marzipan at this time of year. In this edition, we’re celebrating Easter from all angles; looking a little deeper into Easter food traditions as well as sharing with you some really delicious recipes from some of our best chefs, bakers and chocolatiers. So grab a coffee and a hot cross bun slathered in butter, sit back and enjoy our Easterthemed Edition #71! Lauren Bruce
LISA HOLMEN After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s, also spending time in London. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel. Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
EDITOR lauren@grammagazine.com.au ON THE BANDWAGON DEAN SCHMIDEG Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffeeobsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.
beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
BEC THEXTON INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
Dancing Through Sunday is about enjoying the little things in life, like a Sunday brunch. Whilst reading Dancing Through Sunday you will find
CHARLEY MAY Charley May is a biologist by training and a wine communicator by profession. When she’s not at the tasting bench or crafting silky words, you’ll find her on a river somewhere pursuing her other great love... Fly-fishing. TWITTER: @charleymay1
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delicious healthy meals to inspire you to cook scrumptious, real food. In her spare time she can be found standing on chairs or tables trying to get ‘that perfect shot’ or typing away in one of Melbourne’s stellar cafes. dancingthroughsunday.com.au INSTAGRAM: dancingthroughsunday
DIAVOLETTI CHAMPION 2017 AUSTRALIAN GRAND DAIRY AWARDS
Award Winning Cheeses
#thatsamorecheese
NOW OPEN SOUK New restaurant and bar Souk is a Contemporary Middle Eastern establishment taking diners deep into the Arabian, North African and Anatolian flavours via a slick new venue among Melbourne’s inner city laneways. Owners Ergun Elmas (Arabesque) and Vlad Kovacevic have embraced Elmas’ Turkish culture, imbuing it with the contemporary playfulness of Melbourne.
AN UONG EAT. DRINK. VIETNAM An Uong Eat. Drink. Vietnam has launched to take diners on a culinary journey across the diverse regions of the Southeast Asian country. Started by three friends from different regions of Vietnam, the restaurant is one of the latest venues to open on Richmond’s Bridge Road; adding
Behind the Middle Eastern menu is Mexican-born head chef Rogelio Almanza. After living and working in Mexico, America and Japan for the last ten years learning to cook many cuisines including Japanese, Italian and French, Almanza has finally settled in Melbourne to create some unique dishes at Souk. “I am very excited to be working with the team at Souk. With this menu I have unleashed an explosion of flavours,” says Almanza. In a location formerly known as The Deanery, Souk seats 130 and is separated into two main areas: a bar downstairs and dining space upstairs.
even more colour and character to the rapidly expanding hospitality hotspot. Owners Richard, Zico and Le have combined their hometown culinary memories and travel adventures to create a menu where north, south
Souk’s menu is designed to share, with a selection of small and big plates, including the prawn falafel served on smoked black tahini with coriander mayonnaise and tomato oil; and Souk’s version of KFC (Kuwaiti fried harissa chicken): ras-el-hanout crumbed chicken ribs with sweet cucumber and harissa toum (garlic sauce).
and central Vietnam collide. “Eat. Drink. Vietnam is a place where we can showcase Vietnam’s varying local ingredients and cooking methods in a modern way, while staying true to the traditional flavour combinations we grew up with,”
With a late liquor license and a vast array of delicious beverages to choose from including Aladdin’s Mistress with Moroccan green iced tea, crushed cardamom pods, white rum and dark rum shaken with mint, and a wine list that features a mixture of Australian and international wines, you’re going to want to settle in for a long and enjoyable night.
says owner Richard Nguyen. 13 BLIGH PLACE, MELBOURNE “It was really important for us to introduce a modern and contemporary
www.soukmelbourne.com.au
feel to each of the dishes, without losing the authenticity of the flavours that connect us with the recipes from our families and home.” Head chef Zico Lu honed his skills at some of Australia’s best establishments including Grossi Florentino, Donovans and Peter Gilmore’s Quay in Sydney. Lu has returned to Melbourne for the opportunity to apply his skills and passion for Vietnamese cuisine to a menu of his own. “Eat. Drink. Vietnam has enabled me to reinvent and share the flavours from my childhood and travels. The grilled kingfish rice paper rolls and the kingfish salad, for example, were inspired by the seafood we bought at the fishing city of Nha Trang while visiting Le’s family,” says Lu. By day, Lu sources local ingredients from nearby markets to serve up fresh, fast and affordable lunches in a casual atmosphere that lends itself to the bustle of business lunchtime. By night, the venue introduces a more refined atmosphere and diverse dinner menu designed to be shared. The well-placed local wine list smartly lends itself to the complex and bright nature of the dishes served, and holds its own against the intricate flavours native to Vietnam. Whether you’re after a quick and tasty lunch option, or a diverse
WHITEHART BAR New bar Whitehart is not your average Melbourne watering hole. The new bar can be found down a bleak CBD sidestreet in a two-storey car park that has been transformed into a bar that houses craft beer, cocktails and art installations. While Melbourne’s restrictive inner city landscape has provided quite a platform for the creativity of the city’s bar scene, this hidden and surprising establishment is providing some healthy competition for its counterparts. Created by husband and wife team Stephen Johnson and Sabrina Santucci, Whitehart is set to breathe new life into a former car park just off Little Bourke Street, with the pair drawing inspiration from the most memorable drinking spots they’ve encountered on their overseas jaunts. The bar provides some respite from its urban surroundings with a mix of indoor and outdoor areas, art installations and wall projections courtesy by design studio Daisylegs.
for any occasion.
With a comprehensive craft beer and wines offering along with a unique cocktail list, and access from the site to some of Melbourne’s most delicious food vendors, just add Whitehart to the long list of reasons you’re always hungover on a Saturday morning.
378 BRIDGE ROAD, RICHMOND
22 WHITEHART LANE, MELBOURNE
www.anuongrichmond.com.au
www.whitehart.com.au
Vietnamese dining experience, Eat. Drink. Vietnam is a choice destination
6
AROUND THE TRAPS
GAREN MASKAL AND PARTNERS TO OPEN SHUKAH Following a successful reception of their Spanish
really good stuff there, so we thought it was time to
establishment The Black Toro in Glen Waverley
branch out.”
MELBOURNE HOSTING WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS THIS APRIL Melbourne is playing host to the world’s prestigious culinary
and their Armenian fine dining offering Sezar in Melbourne’s CBD, business partners and cousins
Maskal says the food is going to be a bit more
Garen Maskal, Aret and Sasoon Arzadian are set to
traditionally Armenian. “It will kind of be like the food
open their third venue, Shukah.
I eat at home, lots of mezze-style share plates, lots of
awards, the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, this April. Since its inception 14 years ago, the World’s 50 Best
lighter dishes.”
Restaurant Awards has become iconic in the food industry.
flavours to a corner of Chapel Street dominated by
The star of the show will be Shukah’s Mibrasa charcoal
For the first time ever, the awards ceremony is being held
new-style Asian cuisine.
oven, which will add a unique, rich, smoky flavour to
The restaurant will open in Windsor, introducing new
in Australia–and we’re certainly making the most of the
many of the dishes served at the new establishment.
opportunity. While the best of the best in the industry rove
drawing on the traditions of the land-locked country
Sean Thomas, formerly of Ginger Boy, will head
offerings, they will also be sharing their extensive knowledge
as well as its surrounding influences.
up the kitchen, and the venue will take bookings,
Like Sezar, Shukah will focus on Armenian flavours,
bucking the “walk in and wait in line” trend popular “The flavours are a little bit lighter, a little bit more
with Melbourne establishments.
at the #50BestTalks, which are live Q&A shows in Sydney and Melbourne, hosted by ABC presenter Annabel Crabb. The greatest opportunity for the general public to get in
punchy, and the vibe at the venue will be more casual than Sezar,” Maskal says.
around the country to experience Australia’s best food
Shukah will be open seven nights a week with plans to add a lunch service down the track. 104 Chapel St, Windsor 3181
really comfortable with how we’re going, we’re doing
www.facebook.com/shukahwindsor/
Festival, during which many of the chefs being honoured at the Awards will be taking part in events.
“When we first opened Sezar, food from the Armenian region was kind of a little bit unknown. But now, we’re
on the Awards action is at the Melbourne Food and Wine
For more info, go to: www.theworlds50best.com.
THIS INCREDIBLE PRIZE INCLUDES - Return economy flights from Melbourne to Europe with Qatar Airways - 3 nights (4 star) accommodation in London - 4 nights (4 star) accommodation in Rome
- A cooking lesson in the Roman countryside - A private market tour in London - A Taste of Borough Market Gastrotour
- Airport transfers to accommodation in London and Rome - Internal travel (flight or train) between London and Rome - $1000 travel money card
For the chance to win, simply complete an entry form at South Melbourne Market, at an italktravel store (Melbourne metro) or at southmelbournemarket.com.au
Proudly sponsored by:
Competition closes 4pm on Wed 31 May 2017. Full T&Cs at southmelbournemarket.com.au
7
THE HUMBLE HOT CROSS BUN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BEC THEXTON
It seems as soon as all of the Christmas pud is cleared out, hot cross buns
We use our own spice mix with a few tweaks but it’s butter, flour, milk
magically start appearing. ‘Tis the season for hot cross buns in every
etcetera,” Lang says. “Our fruit is soaked in a pear juice so it’s really sweet
bakery, so we caught up with Gontran Cherrier from Gontran Cherrier
and plump and allows the texture of the bun to be as soft and juicy as
Boulangerie and Brenton Lang of Rustica Bakery to chat hot cross buns,
possible.”
technique and what’s on offer this year. Both Gontran Cherrier and Rustica Bakery have started baking hot cross The tradition of picking up hot cross buns around Easter is a common one,
buns daily.
with their origins going back as far as the 12th century. Gontran says that although his boulangeries in France are happy to forego Although throughout his childhood, Gontran Cherrier celebrated Easter
the bun, the Smith St Gontran Cherrier has the traditional bun available. “I
traditions leaning more on the influence of French baking, “Hot cross buns
also developed a special recipe this year with chocolate and hazelnut hot
are not a typical French tradition, so in Easter in France we enjoy pastry,
cross buns which are on offer,” Gontran tells us.
brioche, mini chocolates and chocolate rabbits,” Cherrier says. You can catch Gontran Cherrier and Rustica at the Melbourne Food and In lieu of hot cross buns, each area in different parts of France they have
Wine Festival this year when they take part in the Festival’s sugar-filled
their brioche specialty. “In the North East of France in places such as
extravaganza at Sweet Alley. Lang reveals to us his plans for a soft serve-
Alsace and Lorraine, you can find a lemon brioche which is often baked
filled hot cross bun, which will be on offer during the festival–we could not
around Easter time.”
be more excited!
Cherrier’s shopfront in Smith St has ‘Let Them Eat Croissants’ lit up in
In the meantime, you can pick up hot cross buns from Gontran Cherrier,
neon lighting, so you can’t forget how much the French (and the rest of
Rustica Canteen or Rustica Sourdough until Easter Monday.
the world) love their pastry. Rustica’s Brenton Lang has fond memories of the lead up to Easter and
GONTRAN CHERRIER
always having hot cross buns around the house this time of year–but the
140 Smith St, Collingwood
tradition may have lost its lustre for Lang since getting into the business. “I’ve been baking since I was 16 so there’s been a lot of long and tedious
Rustica has three locations:
Easters since then,” he laughs.
RUCTICA CANTEEN RICHMOND 166 Swan St, Richmond
“Last year we made over 14,000 hot cross buns over the four-day Easter period. It’s a bit crazy and with the rest of our production still going; it’s a
RUSTICA CANTEEN CBD
really big weekend.”
33 Guildford Lane, Melbourne
When it comes to technique, Lang says the process is comprehensive but
RUSTICA SOURDOUGH BAKERY
the results are worth it. “To get the buns right it’s a fairly long process.
402 Brunswick St, Fitzroy
11
RECIPE: WHOLEMEAL HOT CROSS BUNS RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHY BEC THEXTON
One of my favourite things about making these hot cross buns was the
METHOD:
cross making at the top of the buns–very therapeutic. Making hot cross
Combine the flour, yeast, sugar, mixed spice and salt in a large bowl. Melt
buns has also opened a whole new door for me to explore... next up is
the butter in small saucepan over medium heat; add the milk. Heat for 1
cinnamon scrolls! Guys... I am enjoying baking. What?!
minute, or until warmed through.
You can add some cocoa, choc chips or currants for a more festive bun
Add warm milk mixture and eggs to dough mixture. Use a flat-bladed
however I am a fan of the plain wholemeal variety. You can also use white
knife to mix until dough almost comes together. Use clean hands to finish
flour for a lighter, more fluffy bun but I thought I’d go the healthy option.
mixing to form a soft dough.
Makes 15 buns
Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead for 10 minutes, or until
INGREDIENTS:
dough is smooth. Place into a lightly oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until dough doubles
FOR THE BUNS
in size.
3 1/2 cups wholemeal flour 2 x 7g sachets dried yeast
Line a large baking tray with non-stick baking paper. Punch dough down
1/4 cup caster sugar
to its original size. Knead for 30 seconds on a lightly floured surface until
1 1/2 teaspoons mixed spice
smooth. Divide dough into 12 even portions. Shape each portion into a ball.
Pinch salt
Place balls onto lined tray, about 1cm apart. Cover with plastic wrap. Set
40g butter
aside in a warm, wind-free place for 30 minutes, or until buns double in
300ml milk
size. Preheat oven to 190°C or 170˚C fan-force.
2 eggs, lightly beaten To make the flour paste: Mix flour and water together in a small bowl until FOR THE WHITE CROSS PASTE
smooth, adding a little more water if paste is too thick. Spoon into a small
1/2 cup plain flour
snap-lock bag. Snip off 1 corner of bag. Pipe flour paste over tops of buns to
5 tbsp water
form crosses. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until buns are cooked through.
For the glaze
To make the glaze: Place water and sugar into a small saucepan over low
1/3 cup water
heat. Stir until sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil. Boil for 3-4 minutes. Brush
2 tablespoons caster sugar
warm glaze over warm hot cross buns. Serve warm or at room temperature
Butter, to serve
with butter.
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13
PHILIP VAKOS | BAHARI WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEG OSBORNE
Philip Vakos launched himself into the Melbourne food scene in 2010 as a
In 2015, Vakos opened up Bahari on Swan Street Richmond. Over the last
contestant on the widely popular TV show, Masterchef. Vakos is proudly a
two years he has worked on defining the concept of Gringlish cuisine, and
Greek Australian, meaning that although he grew up in Tasmania, he still
bringing an interesting style of fusion to the busy food strip. We spoke to
identifies strongly with his Greek heritage—especially when it comes to
Vakos about Bahari, balancing technique with produce, and as it’s that time
cooking.
of the year; Greek Easter.
14
Bahari serve up a ‘Gringlish’ style of dining, which essentially represents
Some of the traditional Creteian recipes Vakos has learnt from his family are
Vakos’ dual nationality in food form. “Gringlish is about using Greek food
those such as Kaltsounia, which are Greek cheese pies that can be either
and flavours, but adapting it to the ingredients that are available to us
sweet or savoury. Another, which is closely associated with Greek Easter, is
here in Australia,” says Vakos. “We have all this beautiful produce available
Tsoureki, a Greek version of a brioche, baked with painted red hard-boiled
in Australia that isn’t really available in Greece.” The cuisine at the Swan
eggs. “Growing up Greek Easter was, I guess, the most important event of
Street restaurant is influenced by Greek technique, and while respectful of
the year,” Vakos says.
authenticity, still aims to push some boundaries. “It’s good that we’re not sticking to just traditional things,” Vakos tells us, “because [by doing that]
“[It was more important] than Christmas, because we have forty days of
your food and your culture can’t really adapt. It holds you back.”
fasting where we’re not supposed to eat meat or anything that comes from an animal. After those forty days, it’s the lamb on the spit; moussaka; salads.
An example of the marriage of Greek and Aussie flavours at Bahari is the
It’s all about the meat. It’s just awesome because you’ve been forty days
twist on an original Greek recipe of rice-stuffed zucchini flowers. “We’ve
without eating anything… it makes you feel alive again, trust me.”
got beautiful prawns here in Australia,” says Vakos, “So I’m thinking, well, let’s get an Aussie prawn, make a mousse and stuff it into a zucchini flower.
This year, Greek Easter falls on the same dates as ‘Australian’ Easter, but
Things like that is what we do here [at Bahari].”
that doesn’t really impact the community much (aside from missing out on discount chocolate Easter eggs, Alatsas laughs).
The team at Bahari didn’t invent the term ‘Gringlish’, Heleena Alatsas, Vakos’ fiancée who manages brand, marketing and events at Bahari, says. “It’s used
“For me, Greek Easter, aside from the religious aspects, it’s about family,
sometimes. People throw it around as a descriptive word, but we’ve kind of
togetherness and reflecting on the year to come,” Vakos says. He jokes about
come in and owned it in the food space,” Alatsas says. “It’s really something
growing up in Tasmania where other kids would show off their chocolate
that describes what we do, who we are and what we produce.”
Easter eggs at school, compared to his (in his eyes) disappointing loaf of bread. “Growing up I was never really a fan of Tsoureki. Whether that had
Being located in Richmond also plays into the Gringlish theme, as the area
been my grandmother cooking the bejesus out of it or not… but I wasn’t
has a strong Greek community, both old and new, interspersed with other
really a fan.”
cultures and many Australians. This didn’t stop him, however, from realising there was a foundation in the But Vakos says that was just a small reason for setting up shop on the busy
Tsoureki tradition that could serve well with Bahari’s Gringlish concept. “I
Swan Street. “It’s a prominent foodie strip,” Says Vakos, mentioning that
wanted to make something with it [Tsoureki] that I enjoyed. So I thought,
other fantastic nearby restaurants—such as Feast of Merit, Messina and
well, I always enjoyed bread and butter pudding growing up.” Enter the
more—only help build its popularity. “It’s the hub for food in Melbourne, I
most decadent version of a bread and butter pudding you’ve ever tasted.
think.” Vakos has used Tsoureki as the bread element but added the unique The Greek and Aussie fusion available at Bahari draws on Grecian cooking
ingredients of chocolate and Halva. Made up of ground sesame seeds and
and history, but to generalise Greek technique and tradition as all the same
sugar, the Halva provides a nutty flavour, and candied macadamias on top
would be a big mistake. Vakos’ family is from Crete, and he tells us that
supply textural contrast to the custard and bread. “It’s an all-round favourite
spices are a prominent component of Creteian cooking. Bahari even means
for me,” says Vakos.
“spice” in Greek, and this style of cooking helps Vakos explore flavours and use a really creative approach. “For me, Greek food is very fresh, basic and
(Across the page you will find Vakos’ own Tsoureki recipe, perfect for a
simple. I’ve always liked using spices in my food. They’re pretty heavy on
touch of Greek Easter in your own home.)
spices in Creteian cooking. I find spices are a sort of alchemy to amplify food, and I love using them,” says Vakos.
In the lead up to the festive period, Bahari will feature Greek Easter dishes on the menu; the Tsoureki will be a dessert special and Kaltsounia will also
If you were to visit Greece, depending on the region your experience with the
make an appearance. “It gives people that Greek Easter feel and experience,”
food would most likely be different, Vakos tells us. “If you have a Moussaka
says Vakos, which, unless you have Greek heritage, or perhaps a Greek best
from Athens, it’s very neutral. If you have one in Crete, it’s heavy with cloves
friend, can be somewhat hard to come by.
and cinnamon; and if you have Moussaka from northern Greece it’s different again.” Creteian cooking represents the Creteian way of life, Vakos says.
Keep an eye out for Bahari’s upcoming Gringlish projects, including stepping
“Bold people, bold flavours.”
outside the Swan Street locale.
15
RECIPE: TSOUREKI BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING WITH CHOCOLATE AND HALVA RECIPE PHILIP VAKOS - BAHARI
Note: If you don’t have a lot of time, you could buy a pre-made Tsoureki and add the chocolate and Halva to the bread and butter pudding stage. INGREDIENTS:
METHOD:
FOR THE CHOCOLATE HALVA TSOUREKI:
For the tsoureki, preheat the oven to 180 C. Sift the flour. In a saucepan put
1 kg plain flour
vanilla sugar, vanilla bean paste, mahlepi, cinnamon, oil, orange juice and
100 g dry yeast
zest and warm until the sugar melts—making sure not to boil. Beat eggs
5 eggs
separately.
1 cup of olive oil 1/2 cup of orange juice
Prepare the yeast, 1/4 cup slightly warm water, caster sugar, a pinch of salt
50 g mahlepi
and yeast. Dissolve and put this aside until it rises.
500 g vanilla sugar 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
Once yeast has risen, add eggs and yeast to the wet mixture, and stir them
1 1/4 cups of caster sugar
in. Make a well in the flour, and pour the mixture in adding chocolate, Halva
Zest of 1 orange
and hazelnuts. Keep some oil nearby for your hand, and mix it all through
A pinch of salt
so it’s all combined into a dough—try not to over handle! Cover it, and
200 g dark chocolate buttons
keep it warm until it rises again.
1 cup of toasted hazelnuts 1 cup of crumbled Halva
Once the mixture has risen, roll the dough out into shapes, again try not
1 tsp ground cinnamon
to over handle! Then let the shapes rise again, in a warm place. Once they have risen, base them with an egg yolk wash, and place in the oven.
FOR THE BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING 100g unsalted butter, melted, cooled
Drop oven to 170 C and cook for around 20 minutes. Prick with a skewer
6 eggs
in the centre of Tsoureki to make sure it is cooked through, before resting
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
on a cake rack to cool.
600ml pure (thin) cream 600ml milk
For the bread and butter pudding, Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 2L
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
baking dish. Cut the tsoureki into slices and arrange around the bottom
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
and the sides of the baking dish. Follow this with another layer on top.
Icing sugar, to dust Roasted macadamia nuts, for garnish
Whisk the butter, eggs, sugar, cream, milk, orange zest and vanilla together in a bowl until just combined. Pour over the tsoureki, and let stand for 3-4 hours to allow the cream mixture to soak in and the flavours to develop. For more of a caramelized crunch on top, add a thin layer of sugar before it reaches the oven. Bake the pudding for 1 hour or until just set. Dust with icing sugar and roasted macadamia nuts to garnish. Enjoy!
16
17
A YARRA VALLEY EASTER WEEKEND WORDS AND PHOTOGTAPHY LISA HOLMEN
Less than an hour’s drive from Melbourne, the Yarra Valley is a prime
in the heart of the Yarra Valley in scenic Coldstream, Oakridge Wines is the
location for a day trip or Easter weekender. Home to spectacular rolling
place to visit for epic views, brilliant food and award-winning wine. Famous
hills, a patchwork of vines and picturesque villages, it’s a region to fully
for their farm to fork dining philosophy, the menu is crafted from local
indulge your senses, especially your taste buds. Whether you’re looking
produce, ingredients in their kitchen garden as well as foraged ingredients.
to treat yourself to a leisurely lunch, a wine tasting or just to try some
Don’t miss the caraway pastry paired with smoked trout, caviar and garden
delicious hot cross buns and chocolate, there is plenty to do in the Yarra
herbs; and there’s no better place than their alfresco deck on a sunny day,
Valley to get you into the Easter spirit.
overlooking the ranges beyond. For a more rustic cellar door experience, visit Yering Farm; a boutique
FOR THE WINE LOVER
family-owned vineyard with a 100-year-old resurrected hay shed beside the lambing nursery and orchard. Their boutique wines are all grown and
The Yarra Valley is one of the best places to indulge in a wine weekend, as
made onsite, taking inspiration from Burgundy, with their chardonnay and
it’s home to dozens of award-winning vineyards and cellar doors. Nestled
pinot varieties taking centre stage.
18
FOR A LONG LUNCH
FOR THE CHOCOHOLIC
Take a drive through the winding country roads of Yarra Glen past the old
If chocolate is more your thing, venture to Yarra Valley Chocolaterie and
railway tracks and you’ll soon find Zonzo Estate nestled snugly in the valley.
Ice Creamery. Entry is free and chocolate and ice cream tastings are
A former milking station, the Estate is now home to a restaurant and cellar
also available. This is the place to indulge in Easter-inspired chocolate
door, boasting one of the best views of the region. Drawing inspiration from
desserts, decadent fondues and rich hot chocolates in the chocolaterie’s
Italy, the menu includes sumptuous sharing platters, wood fired pizzas and
café amongst the picturesque scenery.
antipasto. Think tiger prawns marinated in chilli, garlic and parsley and home made meatballs pan-fried with vino cotto. A great value sharing menu is
There’s also plenty of fun for the family to be had over the Easter
also available for $50 per person.
weekend with an amazing display of over 30 000 handcrafted Easter chocolates. Their popular Easter Hunts will also take place four times a
Over in Tarrawarra, the Tarrawarra Estate is another must-visit destination
day on Good Friday, Saturday and Easter Sunday at 12 noon, 2pm and
for foodies. Start in the striking cellar door, then head to the restaurant for
4pm (no bookings required) in the Chocolaterie’s picturesque grounds.
lunch where Head Chef Troy Spencer serves up local produce-focused fare
Easter Bunnies will help kids aged 12 and under search for a golden token
with a whimsical and contemporary twist. Here you will find the renowned
to then claim their complimentary Easter egg.
duck, beetroot, liver pâté and artichoke–an art form in its own right. The property is spectacular with bountiful weeping willows, peppercorn trees
FOR THE BEST HOT CROSS BUNS
and grapevines dotting the landscape. Don’t leave without visiting their onsite gallery.
When it comes to Easter, you can’t beat a delicious, sticky hot cross bun fresh from the oven. There’s a delicious aroma at Easter time at
For a more casual affair, feast at Giant Steps where you can enjoy fresh
Beechworth Bakery in Healesville, which has hordes of hungry locals
Wapengo Rocks oyster–natural or with a seaweed dressing, plates laden
salivating at the slightest whiff. At Beechworth Bakery, the hot cross
with charcuterie and authentic wood-fired pizzas. The larger plates are also
buns have the perfect combination of fruit and spices and are cooked to
equally impressive with options like spanner crab teamed with avocado
perfection. They also have a great selection of authentic baked delights,
salsa, slow-cooked lamb and maple-roasted duck. I’m getting hungry just
freshly brewed coffee and sandwiches, making it a great spot for a quick
thinking about it.
lunch or tasty snack.
19
FOR THE CHEESE LOVER Cheese lovers will rejoice at the first sight of Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can sample some of the finest Australian cheeses. Cheese maker Jack Holman has created delicious farmhouse cheeses from both cows’ and goats’ milk. Visitors can take a tour of the Dairy to find out more about the cheese making process. Or you can just kick back and relax with a glass of wine at the Dairy’s café and enjoy a selection of cheeses and antipasto. If you’re in a hurry you can also takeaway their produce or give it as a gift.
FOR FRESH MARKET PRODUCE The Yarra Valley Farmers Market is the perfect spot to stock up on the freshest local produce from around the region, direct from the farmer and producer. Held on Easter Sunday, the market will be held at the barn of Yering Station. This farmers market is one of Victoria’s original and oldest farmers’ markets. From seasonal fruit and vegetables to organic breads and free-range eggs, there is plenty of local produce to pick from. If you’re lucky, you may even pick up a hot cross bun or chocolate or two. There’s also a lot of treats for breakfast and lunch to fill yourself up like paella, crepes and gozlemes.
FOR THE ADVENTURE SEEKER To appreciate the beauty of the Yarra Valley in all its glory from above, take a balloon flight with Global Ballooning. Let the breeze take you on a ride around the picturesque corridors of grape vines and ogle at the spectacular views of the ranges. Start at sunrise for unrivaled views of the region, soaring through a patchwork of vines and rolling hills, then finish with a champagne breakfast at Balgownie Estate. FOR THE GIN LOVER Learn all about the craft of distilling at Four Pillars Gin in Healesville. The former timber yard has been brilliantly transformed into a fully functioning distillery, where guests can sample all of the gins in the Four Pillars range. You can also build your own Negroni’s and sample a variety of other cocktails, or you can just pop in to have a simple gin and tonic in the sunshine.
20
Bendigo in Autumn
Over 50 events are showcased during autumn celebrating Bendigo’s cosmopolitan culture of arts, fashion, food and wine, against a magnificent backdrop of gold rush architecture.
Food Fossicking Tour
cockTAiL MAsTErcLAss
Every saturday
29 April & 27 May
Meet local foodies, go behind the scenes, taste your way around our golden city and fossick for your own food gold. You’ll be weaving your way through the laneways and statues of Bendigo, hearing stories of local history, combined with delicious treats to sample and take home.
Hosted by Finn, learn step by step how a superior mixologist creates their stunning beverages. You will learn how to make (and consume!) four Rocks cocktails, complete with delicious canapes served over the afternoon.
ProgrEssivELy dELicious dEssErT Tour
FroM MArkET To PAddock To PLATE
Monday – saturday
13 May & 8 july
Spend an afternoon tasting delicious dessert dishes matched with signature beverages along the View Street Arts Precinct. Rocks on Rosalind, Wine Bank on View and Mr Beebes are all former historic gold rush banks now modern bars and restaurants.
Join Masons of Bendigo hatted restaurant chef Sonia Anthony on an extraordinary excursion to some of the most outstanding food producers in central Victoria, collecting produce for a private evening meal prepared for you by Sonia and an overnight stay at The Schaller Studio.
sTrATEgEM bEndigo WinEMAkErs FEsTivAL
HEATHcoTE on sHoW
29 April
Spend a weekend meeting artisan winemakers, chefs and brewers from the Heathcote region. Enjoy exclusive tastings, new releases, music, gourmet food, community activities and more at over 30 locations across the Heathcote region.
10 – 12 june
Meet the winemakers of the region, sample hand-crafted red and white wines and feast on delicious regional food in the historic garden setting of Rosalind Park.
E n j o y b E AuT i F u L b E nd i go i n AuTuMn For more events, accommodation options and things to do over autumn, freecall the Bendigo Visitor Centre on 1800 813 153 or visit:
www.bendigotourism.com
Ma in iMa ge:
Courtesy of The Schaller Studio’s Lekker bikes at Lake Weeroona. Photography by Lucas Allen.
@explorebendigo #explorebendigo SASI 213661
GUILT FREE FISH ON GOOD FRIDAY WORDS CHARLEY MAY INFOGRAPHICS COURTESY OF SUSTAINABLE TABLE
With Easter upon us, memories of my mum’s whole-poached salmon with
digesting these facts actually makes me want to cry. But rather than splash
asparagus, new potatoes and Hollandaise sauce are starting to make me
about in my own tears, I gave Cassie Duncan – General Manager at leading
salivate. As a kid, this used to be my favourite dish... Until I was told that
environmental not-for-profit Sustainable Table – a call to talk about how we
we were eating fish out of respect for Jesus who sacrificed himself for our
can save our seas.
sins. Nothing like a nice slice of Catholic guilt to turn your taste buds sour, thanks mum. Today, I still feel a little shame eating seafood. However, it’s
The statistics make me feel pretty depressed and like I can’t do much to
got nothing to do with Christian dogma, but rather the plight of our oceans.
help. Can I?
Since 1950s the global fish catch has increased five-fold and we now
It’s totally normal to feel overwhelmed, but by making a few small changes
consume around 150 million tonnes of fish every year. Thanks to decades
you can actually make a massive difference. These include buying locally
of mismanagement and overfishing we’re now in a situation where 80 per
caught seafood from sustainably managed fisheries, not eating imported
cent of the world’s fish stocks are fully exploited or overexploited. And
prawns, diversifying the fish you eat and making what you do eat a treat.
22
faster breeding fish like sardines or mackerel. If you do choose to indulge in the occasional serve of tuna it’s best to look for Australian Bonito or Australian caught Skipjack Tuna. Also, Australian caught Yellowfin Tuna is listed by the AMCS as ‘think twice’, which means a very occasional indulgence will be forgiven. Okay, why are imported prawns so bad when they taste so good and are so cheap? They’re actually not cheap when you consider the costs involved. At the moment 75 per cent of the world’s farmed prawns are produced in Asia alone. The problem is that whilst we’re paying just a few dollars a kilo, the environment and the prawn-farming communities pay a significantly higher price. Environmental destruction, food insecurity, human rights That sounds achievable, but how do I find out where my fish comes from
abuses and illegal land-seizures are just a few examples of the problems
and whether it’s okay to eat?
associated with prawn farming in Asia and Latin America. There are some responsible prawn fisheries internationally so it pays to do your research,
If you’re eating out or buying from a fishmonger, ask them where it’s from.
but on the whole if it’s cheap and imported, then the costs are being felt
Australian fisheries are ranked amongst the best in the world when it comes
along the supply chain.
to their management, so it’s best to buy local. If it’s imported, I’d give it a miss unless you can be certain it has come from a sustainably managed fishery, the Marine Stewardship Council tick is a good one to look for. You should also download the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s Sustainable Seafood Guide app. It’s a super simple way of finding out what’s okay and what’s not and it’s free! I also love the GoodFishBadFish website if I’m unsure about a seafood species. Oh wow, that is simple. So it says that one of my fave fish, Yellowfin Tuna, is off the menu–why? Sadly, it’s because tuna stocks have declined by 60% on average globally over the past 50 years. And this is because large fish like tuna, but also shark (flake), take years to reach sexual maturity and breed in comparatively smaller numbers compared to other species. Basically they’re currently being fished at a rate where they can’t regenerate quickly enough. So, it’s better to eat lower down the food chain and enjoy smaller, short-lived and I’m a creature of habit when it comes to eating fish. Should I be spicing
o o o
it up when it comes to the types of fish I fry?
o
SUSTAINABLE SUSTAINABLE SUSTAINABLE o o o
Oliver Edwards Founder of GoodFishBadFish
SEAFOOD SEAFOOD SEAFOOD
Definitely! We can’t all eat the same five species and expect their populations to be kept at a sustainable level. There are hundreds of
THAT IT SUPPORTS. communities
species out there that are just as delicious as the familiar fish. And if you
TODAY, TODAY, TODAY, TOMORROW TOMORROW TOMORROW
need a little inspiration, just purchase The Good Fish eBook ($15) from our
AND THE
eating eating eating IS ABOUT IS IS ABOUT ABOUT SEAFOOD SEAFOOD SEAFOOD
HOME, o
CALL IT
AND INTO AND AND THE INTO INTO FUTURE. THETHEFUTURE. FUTURE. ensuring ensuring IT IS ABOUT IT ITIS ISABOUT ABOUTensuring THE ONGOING THETHEONGOING ONGOING VITALITY VITALITY VITALITY
THE species THAT
OF THE MARINE ENVIRONMENT,
OF THE OFOFMARINE THE THEMARINE MARINE ENVIRONMENT, ENVIRONMENT, ENVIRONMENT,
AND INTO THE FUTURE. IT IS ABOUT ensuring THE ONGOING VITALITY
species THE species THETHEspecies THAT THAT THAT
CALLCALL ITCALLITIT HOME, HOME, HOME, o o o
TODAY, TOMORROW
AND THE AND ANDTHETHE
IS ABOUT eating SEAFOOD
SEAFOOD
communities communities communities
website for a bunch of tasty recipes. Why does The Good Fish Book contain vegetarian recipes too? That’s because if we want to save the oceans and preserve fish for future generations then we need to eat more greens. By making seafood an occasional treat, rather than an everyday item, we can ease the pressure on our oceans and still have our fishcake and eat it too.
THAT IT SUPPORTS. THAT THAT IT SUPPORTS. IT SUPPORTS.
SUSTAINABLE o
Oliver Edwards Oliver Oliver Edwards Edwards Founder of GoodFishBadFish Founder Founder of GoodFishBadFish of GoodFishBadFish
o o o
I’m eating zucchini fritters as we speak, but afraid I just couldn’t go past the arroz caldoso with wild yabby and seaweed recipe (see page 31). I reckon this dish will rock with the flavours and texture of Municipal 2014 Tempranillo. Thanks so much for your advice Cassie, cheers to a cracking Easter holiday!
23
o
RECIPE: ARROZ CALDOSO WITH WILD YABBY AND SEAWEED INGREDIENTS:
3. In the same pan, cook the garlic, capsicum
4 tbsp olive oil
and tomatoes with bay leaf for 15 minutes until
500g yabbies, cut in half length ways (head to tail)
they start to turn a golden colour. Meanwhile, in
1 tbsp salt
another saucepan, start to heat the fish stock.
2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 red capsicum (fresh if available or preserved),
4. Add the tablespoon of salt, saffron and
finely diced
paprika to tomato mix and cook for 1 minute.
2 ripe tomatoes, finely diced 1 bay leaf
5. Add the rice, reduce the heat to low and cook
5 cups fish stock
for 2 minutes.
4 saffron threads 1 tsp Spanish (smoked) paprika
6. Add hot fish stock, turn the heat back up to
1½ cups bomba or calasparra rice (or arborioo)
medium and cook for 12-15 minutes, then add
100g wakame fresh seaweed (available from
the yabbies and seaweed, cooking for a further
specialty stores)
eight minutes, seasoning with more salt if
Flat leaf parsley, for garnish
needed. The rice should be al dente.
METHOD:
7. Rest for a few minutes before garnishing with
1. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan or
flat leaf parsley.
paella pan over a medium heat. To get more recipes and info on sustainable 2. Season the yabbies with a little salt and add
seafood head to: www.sustainabletable.org.au
to the pan when the oil is sizzling. Seal and fry
And if you’d like to try Matt Froud’s freshy and
until golden in colour and set aside.
funky uber boutique vino head to: www.municipalwines.com.au
24
BRINGING YOUR BRAND TO LIFE
FOOD, BEVERAGE & RETAIL ACTIVATIONS
Combining creative ideas, technology, design & excellence in activation fit-out using recycled shipping containers.
www.shippingcontaineractivation.com.au 25
a foodies’
EASTER GUIDE UNIQUE EASTER GIFTS WITH STYLE Easter is a challenging time for selecting
inter-relationships that make each Bindle
unique
gifts.
unique. The artisans, farmers, families,
Supermarket shelf sourced chocolates
friends, and recipients. Gifts for your
have sufficed for many years, but it
friends, your family and your colleagues.
is beginning to become a little bit
Bindle assemble it, you take the credit!
and
well
thought
of
predictable and persona non grata. The times are changing and gift giving is
The drool-worthy Easter Bindle includes;
experiencing a revival.
Kennedy & Wilson beautifully wrapped chocolate egg, Endeavour
loose
leaf
Bindle engages local artisans to produce
breakfast tea, Rinaldi Honey Nougat,
Australian,
gift
Rochelle Adonis heavenly rocky road,
packages. There are Bindles for every
Fudge by Rich divine caramel fudge,
occasion and every part of the creation
Phillippa’s Honey Bunnies, and Hot Choccy
is Australian - the products within the
dark drinking chocolate. All wrapped to
Bindles; the boxes that contain them; the
perfection.
hand-made,
tailored
hand that wrapped them. Purchase online at BINDLE.COM.AU or pre Each Bindle is a compilation of several
order via: Phone 03 8790 7707 or email
talented individuals that brings to it his or
info@bindle.com.au
her own personality and creativity. It’s the
ZEST COFFEE - PUTTING THE DESSERT IN COFFEE It’s standard really, coffee and dessert. Or
doing so, Zest discovered, quite pleasantly, the
coffee in dessert.
blend presents as a big-bodied, syrup-y and
But what of dessert in coffee?
chewy, complex milk based espresso – almost a ‘dessert coffee’.
The team at Zest Specialty Coffee enjoy tweaking roasts to intensify flavour nuances,
So why not hold up some of the calories from
but they also know when to stop tweaking
your chocolate eggs this Easter and indulge
and let the beans speak for themselves. And
in a more adult treat – a sweet, full-bodied,
that’s just what they’ve done with their African
sophisticated latte – dessert, but not as you
Mailman blend, and it speaks – boldly – of
know it.
dessert. Visit us at 2017 MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL The African Mailman marries 2 quality lots –
COFFEE EXPO (MICE), March 30- April 1,
Nicaraguan, big, chocolatey, Los Potrerillos
Melbourne Showgrounds, Flemington at stand
(80%) and Ethiopian, red-berry boasting, Suke
#48.
Quto (20%) – to create a simple blend that celebrates each distinctive flavour profile. In
26
ZESTCOFFEE.COM.AU
GRAM FEATURE
PASSIONATE ABOUT BEAUTIFUL CHOCOLATE Our passion for chocolate was realised in 2005 when our
Our boutique stores are where we can share our passion
first Xocolatl store was opened on Maling road, Canterbury.
for chocolate. We are service orientated and always hope
As a family, since the very beginning, our philosophy has
to provide a relaxed and comforting ambiance in store for
been to create the most superior and eclectic couverture
those who visit. However, what we hope most of all is that
products.
when you leave us after devouring a decadent treat, you were able to taste our secret ingredient- love.
When creating our couverture products what excites us and
- The Partsioglou Family
keeps our passion alive is experimenting with ingredients. Whilst we are inspired by and respect tradition, we are
Family to Family
driven by innovation.
In support of family businesses in cocoa production, we only use Fairtrade Certified Couverture.
To produce unique flavour experiences for our customers, Xocolatl explores both the exotic and savoury, developing
Kew East 11 Strathalbyn Street, Kew East. T 03 9857 0971
combinations that surprise the palate and generate a new
Canterbury 66 Maling Road, Canterbury. T 03 9836 3100
perspective on what chocolate can be. Equally important is
Toorak 611 Malvern Road, Toorak. T 03 9826 3457
to respect the integrity of our ingredients so we use only
WWW.XOCOLATL.COM.AU
what is fresh and of the highest quality available.
THAT’S AMORE CHEESE HAMPER Why have chocolate when you can have cheese? That’s Amore Retail Outlet is the place where you can purchase the best Italian cheese in Australia. For this year’s Easter celebrations, the cheese shop has put together a range of cheese hampers, featuring our best selection of Italian style cheese. Hampers also include other gourmet local and imported products, such as olive oil, pasta, raw honey and cured meats! Pre-order your cheese hamper and head to our Retail Outlet collect it! Price from $30 THAT’S AMORE CHEESE RETAIL OUTLET Open every day | 03 9463 4222 retailoutlet@thatsamorecheese.com.au | WWW.THATSAMORECHEESE.COM.AU
27
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
TOP 15 EASTERY THINGS TO CHECK OUT AT SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET 1. Try the delicious Greek almond crescent biscuits kourabiedes from Emerald Deli 2. Sample the best cannoli outside of Italy (Italian pastry filled with fresh custard) from La Lapa or Steve’s Deli 3. Devour sourdough, organic, yeast-free Hot Cross Buns from St George’s Bakery 4. Fill your Easter table with the freshest seafood from Aptus Seafood and South Melbourne Seafoods 5. Grab a dozen, fresh, free-range “googie eggs” from Babe’s Eggs 6. Be one of the first to try pastry queen Agathe Kerr’s Easter bicolour croissant, flavoured with chocolate and ginger, from Agathe Patisserie 7. Bring the kids along for the free Easter Egg Hunt southmelbournemarket.com.au/event/easter-egg-hunt 8. The Easter Bunny’s hopping along to visit southmelbournemarket.com.au/event/easter-bunny-market 9. Adults can delight in the roving jazz musicians, guaranteed to keep your toes tapping as you hit the market stalls 10. Easter-themed face painting in the Food Hall is always a hit with kids 11. Roasting lamb is a special Easter tradition for some cultures, so for a great cut try Kirkpatrick’s Meats 12. Pick up a bottle of the traditional Italian Easter wine, Vin Santo, available at The Little Wine Shop 13. Savor sweet tsoureki (Greek Easter bread with the red egg) from John The Market will be trading on the following days over the Easter week:
and Angela at Vangeli’s Deli
WEDNESDAY 12 APRIL: 8am - 4pm
14. Add a touch of joy to your home with regal, white Easter lilies
THURSDAY 13 APRIL: 6am - 4pm
available from Emerald Hill Florist; and
(6am fresh food opens, 8am general merchandise opens)
15. Make sure you enter the Market’s most exciting competition for the
GOOD FRIDAY 14 APRIL: CLOSED
chance to win a trip for two to EUROPE to visit Markets in London and
EASTER SATURDAY 15 APRIL: 8am - 4pm
Rome valued at over $8,900 – enter at the Market or online:
EASTER SUNDAY 16 APRIL: 8am - 4pm MORE AT SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
southmelbournemarket.com.au/win-trip-2-europe/
BOOKINGS (03) 9347 5610 • 313 DRUMMOND ST, CARLTON • LUNCH & DINNER 7 DAYS • 11AM TILL LATE @MASANIDINING MASANI_DINING MASANI.DINING
28
RECIPE BOOK: AQUACOTTA BY EMIKO DAVIES Tuscan-based, Australian-born writer and photographer
through the use of local ingredients, as well as sharing the
Emiko Davies takes us on a journey to discover the cuisine
history of rustic, storied dishes including scampi and potato
of a secret part of southernmost Tuscany, a sliver of land
soup, hand-rolled strozzapreti noodles, spinach and ricotta
known as la Costa d’Argento–the Silver Coast.
tortelli, chestnut gnocchi and the classic fig and chocolate bread, pagnotella; and of course, the book’s namesake
Named for the shimmery salt-and-pepper sand along this
acquacotta, a quintessential Maremman peasant dish that
part of the Tyrrhenian Sea, it is a region of rolling hills, long
captures the spirit of this incredible place.
beaches, overgrown fig trees, rambling vineyards and rich Acquacotta is all about the food that we love to eat and love
culinary history.
to cook–comforting, low maintenance and easy to prepare. In Acquacotta, Davies has compiled and adapted her
Accompanied
Italian family’s best-loved recipes from Capalbio, Monte
sweeps readers away to share the unique tales and flavours
Argentario, Giglio Island and inland to the hot springs of
of this often undiscovered coast.
Saturnia and the ancient Pitigliano. She guides readers
RRP: $49.99 | HARDIEGRANT.COM.AU
BIBELOT EASTER RANGE
by
stunning
photography, Acquacotta
SUSHI DONUTS AT SEA SALT Due to popular demand,
One of Melbourne’s premier locations
sushi
for all-things-sweet; Bibelot, has an
donuts
are
now
available at Sea Salt in
amazing selection of Easter treats on
Carlton.
offer for 2017. Having Bibelot’s
Easter
collection
pushes
amassed
a
bit
of a cult following in the
boundaries and creates a modern
States, the do
interpretation of ancient European treasures.
The
entire
concept
is
Having amassed a cult
inspired by nature and excavating ancient ruins to find hidden artefacts,
following
relics and treasures. Each creation focuses on combining carefully selected elements and pairing delicate flavours. Artisanship and attention to detail is at the core of every product that makes its way in store.
in
the
USA,
sushi donuts are eagerly being sought after by Melburnians. Sea Salt Owner Serinna Fragoulis says customer demand pushed the seafood outlet to experiment in the kitchen until they were able to produce their own interpretation of
There will be four unique chocolate egg creations this Easter season at
the popular new treat.
Bibelot and available for preorder and in-store from 15 March till the 23 April.
“We had customers coming in and calling to see if we had sushi doughnuts, so our head chef played around in the kitchen and came up
The Dark Chocolate Egg, $29 | Ancient Sculpture This creation has shades of gold to creating a sense of opulence in its ‘Historical’ time, but also weathered down with shades of black. White Chocolate Egg, $29 The touches of green represents nature contrasted against the pronounced grey and silver metallic colours from the rest of the collection.
with some incredible combinations like Nikkei style kingfish ceviche, torched Brazilian trout and smoked salmon creme cheese,” Fragoulis says. The sushi doughnuts were on offer at 12pm on the day of their launch, and were sold out by 2pm. “We had customers coming in early, but we had to turn them away to keep things fair. We only make 25 of each flavour, so they are in high demand”, Fragoulis says.
Milk Chocolate Egg, $29 | Ancient Fossil This egg is inspired by naturalistic fossils and barren landscapes. This creation has more of an earthy and textured finish with shades of copper to add warmth, representing sand that is rich in iron and minerals.
The sushi doughnuts are made by pressing sushi rice into doughnut molds and then topped with smoked salmon, sliced avocado, pickled ginger, mayonnaise, nori sheets, and other ingredients to create instagram-worthy masterpieces.
Wild Nest Egg, $19 Finally, the nest pulls inspiration from nature and the elements. This creation is a representation of a wild nest egg that incorporates bright colours and a life-like nest denotes the eggs are from an exotic bird. Due to the high demand for the collection, Bibelot recommends customers preorder online. WWW.BIBELOT.COM.AU
SEA SALT 364 Lygon Street, Carlton 3053 (next door to Brunetti) WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/SEASALTMATES/
30
MÖRK CHOCOLATE After firmly establishing themselves as Melbourne’s premier hot chocolate
hot chocolate something interesting while keeping the chocolate flavour
brand and brewhouse since their inception in 2012, Mörk Chocolate has
in tact,” Zennell says. “It’s about adding something to it that gives it a bit
well and truly shifted our narrow assumptions around a beverage widely
of a punch; whether that’s a bit of spice, or sweetness or whether it is a bit
considered to be a children’s drink.
of sea salt and so on.
With the establishment of sexy dark chocolate flavours, ingenious chocolate
“It was really important to us that we highlighted the chocolate while
food and drink creations and strong collaborative work with Rooftop
we added some spices. And because we make a hot cross bun – which
Honey, Luxbite, St. David’s Dairy and others, it’s easy to understand why
is a triple chocolate bun – for the Chocolate Brewhouse every Easter as
Mörk has such a solid reputation in Australia, and now, overseas.
well, it’s kind of the same thing; we kind of balance the spices against the chocolate. One flavour doesn’t take over the other.”
Co-owner Josefin Zennell as been making chocolate since she was a 21 year old in Sweden. Zennell knows a thing or two about hot chocolate, and
Zennell says it’s about getting the right balance and, in the absence of
indeed, Easter. Zennell says the Easter traditions back where she grew up
fruit, making sure the chocolate plays the role of fruitiness in the bun.
are slightly different to those of Australia. “In this Easter hot chocolate recipe, if you choose not to add the port, “In Europe, Easter is obviously about the chocolate and the candy; but
it’s okay because the chocolate actually has raisin flavours,” Zennel says.
[more generally], it’s all about eating and drinking delicious things, I think,”
“The chocolate that we use has kind of stone fruity, dark cherry, dark fruit
Zennell says.
flavours. So even without adding raisins or any kind of fruit to the drink, it still has a strong fruit flavour.
“And for me, I’ve worked in chocolate since I was [young] so I’ve always worked a lot during Easter. It’s always been about making the most of
“It’s really interesting. I think it’s one of the best flavours to combine with
beautiful Easter creations; eggs and chocolate pralines with Easter flavours;
those [hot cross bun] spices.”
and in Sweden, Easter is about marzipan, so using those marzipan flavours. “It’s really all about making colourful, playful chocolate and candy things
Josefin says chocolate is as complex as wine and coffee, with about 500-
for grownups and kids.”
600 different flavour compounds to be found in the foodstuff. “Chocolate is one of the most complex things on this earth, so you really
Josefin and her team at Mörk have created an Easter hot chocolate
do find sometimes subtle, but very complex flavours,” Zennell says. “You
exclusively for Gram readers centered around the hot cross bun, a drink
can find notes of anything from green bananas, to grapes, to strawberries
she says is all about trying to find the balance between flavours while
and raspberries, to nuttiness, depending on how the beans are roasted.”
keeping the chocolate flavours in focus. “We’re always trying to find ways to balance the chocolate, and make the
31
RECIPE: HOT CROSS CHOCOLATE Mork Chocolate’s Josefin Zennell and her team have created a delicious
Please note: The port wine is optional, but if you want to re-create that
Easter hot chocolate exclusively for Gram readers.
fruity flavour without the alcohol, you can substitute the port wine for vino cotto instead.
This is an Easter-inspired after dinner hot chocolate that uses hot cross bun spices, caramel, orange zest, and a dash of port wine to intensify the fruit and indulgence factor. METHOD:
Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:
To make the caramel, add sugar and water to a small pot and caramelise FOR THE SPICED CARAMEL:
FOR THE HOT CROSS CHOCOLATE:
over a medium heat until the colour turns amber. Take it off the heat and
75g caster sugar
100g Mörk Chocolate
add the butter; whisk quickly until combined. Add the cream and whisk
75g water
0.8L milk
again until smooth. Now whisk in the spices and salt. Set aside.
30g unsalted butter cut into in cubes
100g spiced caramel
75g cream
15ml port wine per serve (optional)
Make the hot chocolate by adding Mörk Chocolate to milk in a small pot.
zest of half an orange
Whisk while heating over a medium heat until just hot. Add 100 grams of
1½ tsp cinnamon
the caramel, whisk and serve straight away in cups.
1¼ tsp nutmeg ¾ tsp ginger ½ tsp salt
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Optional: add a dash of port wine to each of the cups before serve.
REVIEWS ADORE ESTATE COFFEE - FLORITO BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG These days many caffeine-loving Melburnians go to a
A lot of specialty coffee is roasted lighter to bring out
cafe wanting more than just coffee. They need to know
the fruitier nuances in the beans; however this style is
where it’s come from and how ethically it was sourced,
best enjoyed black. What drew Voitin to Adore Estate’s
with questions about sustainability, who the farmer is and
Florito blend was its medium to dark roast, rich body
pretty much what he ate for breakfast. Welcome to the
and sweet chocolate character, which is balanced by the
world of specialty coffee.
floral notes from the Guatemalan and Costa Rican beans. The addition of 10% Robusta gives this blend a bit of
When assessed or ‘cupped’ by an accredited coffee or ‘Q’
punch and the intensity it needs to cut through the milk.
Grader, the coffee must reach a score of at least 80/100,
Adore Estate’s owner and roaster Nick Mastro started the
and the beans should be virtually defect free, with certain
business in Sydney seven years ago. A certified Q Grader
quality standards maintained throughout its production
himself, Mastro works closely with the farmers to ensure
from crop to cup.
the coffees they’re roasting are the best they can be, with cupping scores and notes listed on each of the bags.
Sharing similar values is Owner of Balwyn cafe The Providore Clare Voitin, who also owns Swan Bay Farm in
The relationship between The Providore and Adore
Geelong where they grow their own fruit and vegetables
Estate is a strong one. It’s very much about Clare’s
as well as producing beef, lamb and pork. In her world,
connection with Vincenzo who represents the brand here
“crop to cup” is known as “paddock to plate”, an ethos
in Melbourne and his understanding of what she is trying
which revolves around the same quality procedures in
to achieve. The coffee is part of a bigger picture here, in
production, processing, transportation and final sale of
a space where the customers are encouraged to be more
goods; it’s about knowing where the food comes from
aware of what they eat and drink, and how the quality
and how far it has travelled to get to you. So when she
of ingredients and what they put into their bodies really
rebranded her Balwyn cafe at the beginning of the year
does matter.
and it became The Providore, she wanted to use a coffee that fit in with her philosophy but also suited her patrons,
www.adorecoffee.com.au
who are mostly local and very much lovers of milk-based
vincenzo@coffeegalleria.com.au
coffee.
1300 797 944
OUT OF STEP 2016 WILLOWLAKE SAUVIGNON BLANC WORDS LAUREN BRUCE While they’re a small wine company that operates in
Reeves and Chatfield work with the philosophy that in
small batch winemaking, Out of Step’s Dave Chatfield and
order for the wine to be great, “It must be real, expressive
Nathan Reeves have well and truly established themselves
and honest.” Well, whether the expression is real or honest
as one of the leading producers of sauvignon blanc in
or otherwise, the Willowlake sauv blanc is damn delicious.
Australia. Sourcing the beautiful grapes from the 30-year-old vines
Out Of Step 2016 Willowlake Sauvignon Blanc
at Willowlake Vineyard in the Yarra Valley, there’s no
RRP: $27.00
underestimating the strong character of this drink. While
Region: Yarra Valley, VIC
many sauvignon blancs go down the hatch without much
Alcohol: 13.5%
thought, Out Of Step’s variety is a wine that demands you
www.outofstepwineco.com
savour its complexity. The wine is intensely fruity, while remaining really fresh and delicious. The mouthfeel is smooth; and while the flavours are complex, they work together so well that the drinkability isn’t compromised.
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REVIEWS BRIDGE ROAD PALE DE WILDE WORDS ON THE BANDWAGON
f you’re familiar with winemaking, you would have heard of Brettanomyces, a yeast strain that can spoil a wine’s character and aroma. Most would associate it with poor winery hygiene. While hygiene is also paramount in brewing, we’ve seen a steady growth of Brett/Sour beers over the past few years as brewers contain and capture the Brett character for creating funky, wild flavours unlike anything else. Bridge Road Brewery, located in Beechworth in Victoria’s High Country, is nestled amongst some of the finest chardonnay producers in Australia. Owner of Bridge Road Brewery and ex-winemaker Ben Kraus worked with his good friends at Giaconda, A Rodda and Sorrenberg to produce three distinctive Brett Pale Ales to educate, inspire and enjoy. I had the pleasure of catching up with Ben for a chat Could you expand on “generating our own identity”?
about these intriguing beers.
Well, I think we’ll see an increase in the use of native ingredients, locally developed The three Pale De Wilde beers are mind-blowingly good. What are you most
hop varieties and collaborations with Australia’s world beating food, coffee and
proud of with this release?
wine scene.
I have always enjoyed trialling new ideas and pushing the boundaries with our beers. This theme has always been a part of what we do; from brewing Saisons in 2005
It’s common for people to think that wine is better matched to cheese, but I see
to introducing 100% Brett-fermented foeder beers to our stable in 2016. The three
your challenging that thinking with the Pale De Wilde.
Pale De Wilde beers follow this theme and allow us to work with local winemakers
Yes absolutely, we recommended matching these beers with soft and blue cheeses
and be part of the exciting period that is vintage each year. I like that it blurs the
on the label. As it happens, I only just recently sampled all three beers with our
lines between beer and wine yet highlights the differences between the two.
recommended cheese match and I’m pleased to say I can stand by the decision to go to print ahead of bottling.
What was your experience like collaborating with some of the best winemakers in Victoria? They all happen to be mates, so it was pretty casual. They all enjoy the brewery and beers and I’m a fan of their wines. It generates discussion and debate about the importance of yeast in wine and beer and the complexity that wild wine yeast offers.
MURRAYS FRED IPA ABV: 5.6 STYLE: India Pale Ale FOOD PAIRING: Smokey Chicken Fajitas ORIGIN: Bobs Farm, NSW PRICE (RRP): 4 pack 330ml $19 Buy it here: www.murraysbrewingco.com.au
How have you seen the evolution of Brett / Sour beers in Australia over the past couple of years? We’re only just seeing the tip of the iceberg with these styles. I think Australia will begin to generate its own craft beer identity, rather than only following the USA model. That said, this trend is booming in the US.
BAR/D UP Video Feature - Silverlake Social If you’ve ever been to Los Angeles, you may
Regardless of what you choose to drink, you have
have visited an Eastside neighbourhood called
to make sure you order some food too. From the
Silver Lake. Known for its bars, restaurants and
totchos to the tostadas, the buffalo wings to the
music scene, there is no shortage of places
burritos and everything in between, the menu
where people can gather for good food and
has been seriously considered, with options for
drinks in an environment comprised of all things
carnivores and vegetarians alike.
hip. Wanting to capture the essence of this and bring it to Chapel St Prahran were brothers Tom &
This is a celebration of the authentic American
Nick Welch, owners of the successful White Oaks
local. It’s a place to congregate and keep things
Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video.
Saloon Bar & Dining, together with partner Byron
casual while enjoying some of the best craft
Instagram - @bardupmelb
Barrowclough. At The Silverlake Social, they have
products coming out of the US. It may not be
Facebook - facebook.com/bardupmelb
created a little bit of Southern California in a tap
California, but if you want to experience the spirit
house focusing on American brews both bottled
of Silver Lake and you want somewhere social,
and on tap, and a cracking list of cocktails,
this is surely the next best thing.
The SIlverlake Social 198 Chapel Street Prahram 3181 Pj: 9510 2995 silverlakesocial.com.au
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shooters and boilermakers.
THE DIARY March 30, 2017
BURGUNDY DINNER Masani Italian Dining and Terrace - 313 Drummond Street, Melbourne
The Masani philosophy is simple – local, fresh and seasonal produce and artisan crafted cooking. Richard, Luciana and Kara are inspired by their roots (Italy) and their country (Australia). Like Italy’s regions, our cuisine is diverse and unique. The brilliant vintage of 2014 will be celebrated over four courses on March 30, as Masani host ‘Burgundy Dinner’. Inspired by Autumn, Chef Richard Masani will delight guests with an array of the finest Italian cuisine, matched with the very best in white and red Burgundy. BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL Ph: 03 9347 5610 | eat@masani.com.au masani.com.au
Kicking off at 7pm and featuring a surprise guest from acclaimed importer Domaine Wine Shippers. This will be a sensational night to remember.
June 10 - 12 - Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend
HEATHCOTE ON SHOW FESTIVAL Heathcote, Victoria
The central Goldfields town of Heathcote is readying for its annual wine and food festival, a three-day event that offers visitors the opportunity to sample the region’s very best award winning wines. More than 40 winemakers will be on hand for winery tours, winemaking classes and with 30 cellar doors, plenty of opportunity to sample and buy award winning wines, museum releases and many new white and red varietals. Enjoy many food and wine locations offering cheese, olives, antipasto platters and winter favourites plus live music. You can also BYO a picnic and enjoy the views and beautiful surroundings the wineries offer.
April 29, 2017
STRATEGEM BENDIGO WINEMAKERS FESTIVAL Rosalind Park, Bendigo
The popular Strategem Bendigo Winemakers Festival is a highlight on Bendigo’s Autumn calendar, taking place in Rosalind Park in the centre of Bendigo. It’s on Saturday 29 April 2017, 11am to 4pm. Sparkling, white and reds produced by local wineries will be on show. It’s a great day to meet the winemakers and sit back and enjoy the garden setting of Rosalind Park, in the heart of Bendigo. There’s children’s entertainment for the young in the family. Three wine masterclasses will run throughout the day (additional ticket) where you can indulge in four tasting plates produced by Rocks on Rosalind, and matched with local Bendigo wines. Finn Vedelsby, owner of Rocks on Rosalind, will take you on a 45 min wine-and-food pairing journey. So pack a picnic rug, bring along family and friends, and enjoy a leisurely Autumn afternoon with a Bendigo region wine, delicious food and music to make you smile.
And throughout the long weekend many wineries also take the opportunity to launch their new release wines. Whilst Heathcote is renowned for its premium Shiraz wines, it is also home to many other red and white varietals harvested from its famous ancient red Cambrian soils. The heritage town’s many restaurants and cafés are also gearing up to create menus using homegrown regional produce to create a variety of culinary dishes designed to please the most discerning gourmand. Add to that a variety of musical events, arts and crafts and kiddie’s amusement and you have a real family festival weekend. The local Market will be held on Saturday 10 June and the High Street will have vintage cars on display, pony rides, face painting and the petting zoo full of baby animals for the kids. Transport to Heathcote will be made available with Shuttle buses operating excursions from the town centre to the region’s wineries and cellar doors throughout the long weekend. Lock away the weekend now and contact the Heathcote Visitors Centre (03) 54333121 for more information and accommodation options, or check out heathcoteonshow.com.au for what’s on show and for all booking details.
Tickets available via bendigotourism.com or on the door bendigowine.org.au
April 8 - May 8, 2017
GRAMPIANS GRAPE ESCAPE Grampians Region, Victoria
A month-long food and wine festival showcasing the best of the region, culminating in the 26th annual Grampians Grape Escape weekend, 6 & 7 May 2017 The Grampians Grape Escape food and wine weekend is held during the first weekend of May every year at Halls Gap. A number of other food and wine events are held in and out of region to showcase the many offerings the Grampians boasts making this a month-long celebration. Enjoy the Region’s signature wines while you graze your way through the delights of local beef, lamb, pork and turkey; as well as beer, teas and herbs, olive products, preserves, gourmet sausages and pies, cookies, cakes and fresh organic produce. Victoria’s longest running food and wine event has something for everyone from the winemaker’s Barrique Auction to cooking demonstrations, live music, grape stomping, children’s activities and lots more. grampiansgrapeescape.com.au
May 1 and 2
PERFECT MATCH: ITALY V AUSTRALIA Milk the Cow St Kilda and Carlton
Do Italians do it better? There’s only one way to find out. We pit Italy and Australia head to head in this month’s Perfect Match, with four Italian style wines from Primavera matched to four farmhouse Aussie cheeses in a very friendly cultural showdown. Join our experts as they take you through the production methods, stories and tastes of each country in a guided cheese and wine flight. Tickets $42 pp milkthecow.com.au
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