MELBOURNE
ISSUE 16
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376 Smith St. Collingwood 3066 Phone: +61 3 9417 2233 www.robertburnshotel.com.au facebook.com.au/robertburnshotel
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Turn the pages to find reviews of new pizza restaurant Firechief,
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Miss Marmalade, San Telmo, Good Beer Week and more. Danielle Gullaci, Editor
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Firechief 169 Camberwell Road, Hawthorn East. Ph: 9831 1700 Words and photos by Sharking for Chips and Drinks
About Sharking for Chips and Drinks Sharking for Chips and Drinks is a writer-photographer team that relocated from London to Melbourne last year, and soon found themselves falling for the city’s coffee, brunch and bar scenes – and every meal in between. While Melbourne is the main focus, the pair regularly venture far and wide across Australia, Asia and, of course, their old stomping ground in the UK.
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We have a soft spot for pizza, who doesn’t? And we have found a few
a gradual process, with both halves of the refurbed high-ceilinged
pretty good joints here in Melbourne – from the authentic Italian staff at
warehouse space getting to grips with jam-packed services (on a busy
St Kilda stalwart Il Carusi (where you will find rich, sweet tomato sauce
Saturday night, Firechief can see in excess of 200 diners pass through
slathered on thin and crispy bases, paper tablecloths and very drinkable
the doors in up to three sittings – seems like everyone wants a slice of
red wine) to upmarket fare at Ladro (on Greville Street in South Yarra
the action – ouch).
and Gertrude Street in Fitzroy – the funky fit-outs and interesting pizza toppings do the two fashionable addresses proud).
Rolling pins on the wall, oversize rustic chandelier, splashes of yellow and the odd pot plant housed in wooden boxes – all very Melbourne
Then there is old reliable Pizza e Birra on Fitzroy Street (which also
(in fact Paul Mathis Design has been shortlisted for the 2012 Australian
serves a range of pastas and meaty mains, plus Italian antipasti-
Interior Design Awards).
style starters), city slickers +39 on Little Bourke Street and Joseph Abboud’s (of Rumi fame) super-delicious Lebanese take on the beloved Italian peasant food at The Moor’s Head in Thornbury (full review to come – just one quick tip – order the fairy floss for a post-pizza trip back to childhood). Then there are the places we want to visit and haven’t got round to yet –
on a busy Saturday night, Firechief can see in excess of 200 diners pass through the doors in up to three sittings – seems like everyone wants a slice of the action.
400 Gradi (East Brunswick) and Pizza Meine Liebe (Northcote). Pizza connoisseurs – now is the time to get excited. Three ovens provide But let’s now turn our attention to Paul Mathis’ new kid on the block
three different pizza styles. That’s right – authentic and original pizzas
– Firechief, which along with sister brunch/coffee shop operation
from Naples are made according to strict guidelines (outlined by a
Goldilocks, opened in Camberwell late 2011/earlier this year. As lovely
rather stringent pizza-loving ‘associazone’) and cooked in a 400°C
front of house man-in-charge Lucas is keen to point out, it has been
wood-fired oven for just two minutes.
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Crispy, uncluttered and authentic toppings – we opt for Crudo – San
The third class of pizza is ‘the great Australian family pizza’ cooked in
Marzano tomato, Bufala mozzarella, topped with San Daniele prosciutto
trays in a conveyor oven with local Aussie ingredients – six minutes at
and basil ($24.90).
340°C sees fluffy bases and some less authentic, but no less popular,
Then there is the modern artisan ‘hand-style’ pizzas – cooked in a classic Italian twin-deck oven, worked by hand and shovel, and placed on the stone floor at 360°C for around four minutes.
toppings – think pineapple, egg, pepper-marinated chicken and scallops. There are salads – fresh tomatoes, fior de latte, cucumber and basil – among other fresh and zingy offerings. Also starters make for good popin-the-middle-of-the-table sharing plates, in case you’ve had enough dough for one sitting (like that would ever happen). Deep-fried calamari with yoghurt tzatziki dip ($13.90) was our choice.
Then there is the modern artisan ‘hand-style’ pizzas – cooked in a classic
Happily seated, we think we might have found our new favourite pizza
Italian twin-deck oven, worked by hand and shovel, and placed on the
place – unpretentious, affordable, with a great range of pizzas (without
stone floor at 360°C for around four minutes. We ordered the Prawn
making up topping combinations for the sheer heck of it – a pet niggle
and Pancetta – Tiger prawn cutlets, fior di latte, crispy pancetta, mojo
of ours), good drinks and decent coffee. Mama would be proud.
dressing (tangy aioli-style sauce, offsetting the salty meat) and fresh rocket ($23.90). If you flew to Italy tomorrow (we wish), this is most likely the kind of thing you would be biting into (okay, the toppings have been given the Melbourne treatment) while knocking back of few cheeky glasses of Chianti. On that note, the drinks list is a happy mix of old and new world grapes and grain, and old-school aperitifs.
Happily seated, we think we might have found our new favourite pizza place – unpretentious, affordable, with a great range of pizzas.
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Miss Marmalade 126 Union Street , Brunswick. Ph: 9388 8202 Words and photos by Bryan
ABOUT BRYAN I’m an inquisitive foodie with an Asian palate. I love how food brings people together. There is a story behind every meal and I’m constantly trying to find it. Please join my Melbourne-based food journey and let’s get fat together.
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I don’t know about you, but I always feel a slight sense of gloom whenever daylight savings ends. Just overnight, you’re suddenly driving back home from work in the dark. As I inched alongside Southern Cross Station, I observed the city lights of obsidian yellow and green, gleaming from gloss windows speckling the half-scrapers. After a bad day at work, I’m tired. And coming face-front with a city
Fakegf and I are rather fond of 5 Senses coffees, and they were made satisfyingly here. I had a piccolo and could taste a touch of cinnamon spice with notes of dark chocolate in its body.
canvas like this puts me into a contemplative mood from within the
more and more. I remember Ees likes frequenting here, especially for the
encapsulated bubble of my car. I don’t even want to think about how to
corn fritters, so I was glad that he could make it for this visit.
make my dinner happen at home. Fakegf and I got here first, just before 11am on a Sunday, and thankfully
We got a nice booth seat by the window and waited a few minutes while Ees power-walked from his home with Little Death trailing behind, puzzled at the rush.
so, because hordes of hungry brunch-goers arrived immediately after us. We got a nice booth seat by the window and waited a few minutes while Ees power-walked from his home with Little Death trailing behind, puzzled at the rush. Ha ha… I think Ees remembers how cranky I used to get when people are late for appointments. These days, I’m generally a lot more mellow… happy to read a book… or people watch.
This brunch happened back in the hey-day, where the sun still sets way past 7pm. The recent months have seen me visiting cafés in the Northside
Off to business with coffees. Fakegf and I are rather fond of 5 Senses
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coffees, and they were made satisfyingly here. I had a piccolo and could taste a touch of cinnamon spice with notes of dark chocolate in its body. Fakegf’s magic held a fresh citrus rush in its crema. I later got a single origin magic, which tasted somewhat similar, but gentler. Just
Fakegf cleverly chose a lovely chicken salad with Israeli cous cous. Perfect for such a bright Sunday in summer. I had brunch envy!
as enjoyable. potatoes, cherry tomatoes, and the pick of market vegetables with a Little Death is an adorable creature of habit with his brunches. I noticed
poached egg, microherbs and avocado crush ($15.50).
he’d start with a strong flat white, order the muesli and finish off with another flat white. When I asked how he liked his dish, his reply was
What a good-looking dish! Definitely not what I’d usually have for
“Good… yup! Good yoghurt, good milk… sweetness level good: The Ideal
brunches, but I found my meal very rustic, with many interesting
Muesli.” Ees had the green fritters, which I must say looked good. From
implements to keep me curious. The poached egg was just a touch
the sample I stole from him, I thought they tasted like light, fluffy and
overcooked, but I enjoyed how different this dish tasted.
zesty pancakes. I couldn’t get enough of the accompanying whipped lemon and sesame ricotta. Ees overall found this dish quite rich, but said
We finished off with shared sweets amongst the four of us. The coconut
that the balsamic glaze helped cut through the richness.
raspberry tart tasted quite sweet, but I liked it because there was lots of coconut in it.
What a good-looking dish! Definitely not what I’d usually have for brunches, but I found my meal very rustic, with many interesting implements to keep me curious.
I know why Ees likes coming here, coffee’s good and the menu interesting. There were many groups waiting for a table when we left that Sunday. We may now have embarked on the darker half of the year with regards
Fakegf cleverly chose a lovely chicken salad with Israeli cous cous.
to daylight, but I’m glad that we will still get to brunch so brightly
Perfect for such a bright Sunday in summer. I had brunch envy!
like how we did today. These days, I’d rather spend my pink dollar on brunches, and then go simple with my dinners by either eating at home,
I had the farmers market breakfast of homemade corn bread, hash
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or going somewhere cheap and easy.
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON san telmo (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
San Telmo 14 Meyers Place, Melbourne. Ph: 9650 5525 Words and photos by Agnes Hon
ABOUT AGNES HON I LIKE TO EAT. I LIKE TO COOK. I LIKE TO BAKE. I LIKE TO BLOG. I LIKE THE WORD SPORK.
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WWW.OFFTHESPORK.COM
Named after one of Buenos Aires’ oldest neighbourhoods, San Telmo is
The menu at San Telmo is designed to be shared, with a focus on meat
one of Melbourne’s recentish additions to the Latin American inspired
cooked on the char-grill. There’s not that much for non-meat eaters,
dining scene. And judging by my meal there over the Easter weekend
and in any case it’s not really a vegetarian friendly environment.
with Alastair, Hazzie and Gazman: it’s a good one. The restaurant contains a big 2.5 metre parrilla/char-grill near the Opened late last year, San Telmo is a casual style eatery serving
entrance, which is fantastic for cooking meat, but the smell does tend
Argentinean inspired food. Fortunately they’ve bucked the no-booking
to linger in the air and cling to hair and clothes.
trend of many of Melbourne’s new casual restaurants and take bookings, though half of the restaurant is set aside for walk ins. Hoorah.
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We started with the humita – fried corn and polenta chips ($12). This
came as four fingers of soft cheesy polenta served with chipotle
We added a vegetable dish to go with our meats, opting for the grilled
mayonnaise. These were incredibly moreish, particularly with the spicy
zucchini, eggplant and roast garlic ($10). It was just a simple side, but
mayo, and left me wishing we had ordered two serves.
it was seriously good. Both the zucchini and eggplant were soft and subtly sweet.
The plato de picada ($18) was a plate of jamon, bresaola, chorizo, pickled green tomato and caper berries. The meats were all really good, but strangely I loved the caper berries the most. I also adored the pickled eggplant that came with the pita bread ($4). There were two types of ceviche on the menu and we decided on the white fish with chilli, sweet potato and ginger ($16). Thick slices of fish
Our next two dishes came off the char-grill and were served with two sauces – a chimichurri and a tomato and capsicum salsa. First we had the special eight hour slow cooked lamb ($39). As expected, the lamb was fantastic.
had been marinated in fresh citrus juice and mixed with cubes of sweet potato and a bit of ginger. I didn’t really like the ceviche – the firm
We finished our meal with a small taste of dessert, which Hazzie ordered
texture of the fish didn’t do it for me.
for us. We thought she was ordering us an alfajores each – a cookie filled with dulce de leche ($5) – but she only ordered us one to share.
We thought that a salad would be a good idea, so we added the ensalada
We carefully cut it into quarters. And guess what? It turns out that one
palmitos – a salad of palm heart, jamon and buffalo mozzarella ($16).
between us was enough. It was fine, but somehow it just didn’t excite
I loved the mozzarella and jamon, but would’ve been happy to leave
any of us. It was a soft, crumbly cookie – veering towards being too dry
behind the palm hearts, which reminded me of bamboo shoots.
– and the dulce de leche couldn’t elevate it to greatness. Oh well.
Our next two dishes came off the char-grill and were served with two
Our second dessert was the dulce de leche flan with caramel salted
sauces – a chimichurri and a tomato and capsicum salsa. First we had
peanuts ($14). It was fine, though again it didn’t excite us. The dulce de
the special eight hour slow cooked lamb ($39). As expected, the lamb
leche on top was quite different to portion out.
was fantastic – tender with crisped fatty parts. Despite the fact that desserts didn’t wow us, and we left smelling like But the steak was even better. Our 400g striploin ($47) had been
cooked meat, we really enjoyed San Telmo. I definitely need a return visit
dry aged on the bone, but came to the table all sliced up. The knife
to try the empanadas, as well as the grilled provolone cheese which I
provided wasn’t necessary. The meat must’ve been cooked over a very
hear is incredible. I also need to take some beef eating offal eaters with
high heat initially because it had developed a fantastic browned crust,
me (sorry Alastair, Haz and Gazman) so I can eat my way through the
while inside it still remained perfectly medium rare. Delicious.
blood sausage, sweetbreads and grilled tongue.
Laneway or Rooftop? Your guide to finding the city’s best restaurants, bars and recipes hidden away in laneways and rooftops throughout Melbourne.
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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON minimo (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
Minimo 822 Sydney Road, Brunswick. Ph: 9383 2083 Words and photos by Chomp and Slurp
About Chomp and Slurp Photographing my food doesn’t take away my personal encounter because it’s such a visual and olfactory adventure. I’m all about the love of food and will only blog about the positive elements because being vicious and negative about food experiences will only give you a heart and tummy ache.
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www.chompandslurp.wordpress.com
Opening hours:
of salads, quiches and cakes were displayed instead of sitting next to
Mon, Wed, Fri: 7:30am to 4:30pm
the coffee machine facing the open kitchen. I plonked down at the large
Sat & Sun: 9am to 4pm
communal table situated along the wall so I could spread out The Age and read it properly.
A while back, I ducked into the place whilst it was pouring down rain just to have a quick coffee and now, I finally got around to having something
This open and light filled atmosphere is sparsely but nicely decorated
nice to eat. They were good to me back then and things haven’t changed
which is not that important because here, they care more about the
which is so wonderful.
service and their food. They even sell packaged goods here too. I was so worried at first that I wasn’t going to be able to eat anything but oh
I was greeted straight away and led to the counter where the selection
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Lordy… I was so wrong!
The head chef was so accommodating when I asked about their gluten free produce and he went into rapid fire on what he had in store. I was bowled over by his enthusiasm and suggestions.
Restaurant & Events 680 Victoria Street, Richmond 3121 P: 03 9427 8500 | W: fenix.com.au
The head chef was so accommodating when I asked about their gluten free produce and he went into rapid fire on what he had in store. I was bowled over by his enthusiasm and suggestions of salads, big slabs of frittatas and gluten free cakes. Then he said he could just make something from the breakfast menu and I was so impressed that even though he was busy, he took the time to make suggestions of what I could eat. Bonus points to you, my dear sir!
‘10 things you should know about Fenix’ 1. 2.
We are not just a Wedding venue… We are an Eatery, Bar & Café, that means use us
I was sold on the Salmon Rosti ($17.50) which consisted of two perfectly
for coffee, brekky, lunch, dinner, as a café / restaurant
soft poached eggs that were blanketed in a pale yellow velvety
or bar
hollandaise, with fresh garden mixed salad with a generous slab of hand
3.
We are not ‘fine dining’, or expensive…you be the
grated nicely cooked potato rosti which had salmon and green herbs
judge fenix.com.au/page/Lunch_-and-_Dinner_
mixed through and was baked to golden brown with extra smoked
Autumn_Menu
salmon slices on the side. Accompanying that was the most kick arse pickle mustard seed relish I have ever had! I was trying to ration that
4. 5.
because it was so good. Man, the balance of sour, tang, sweet and spice is just heavenly. I would have licked the plate clean if I could get away
6.
with it, but no, I’m out in public and I have dignity. I also had a flat white ($3.50). They use Atomica coffee and mine was of a rich English toffee sweetness with a good strong aroma and I could actually taste hints of berry. The milk wasn’t at its ideal temperature but
7. 8.
We believe food should be shared, incredibly fresh, tasty and offer value You can have your lunch ‘express items only’ in 20 minutes or it’s free (excluding Sunday’s shared table) Local produce, beer & wine, reign supreme, except for a few… We are one of Melbourne’s best spots to enjoy a light meal, coffee, glass of wine or elegant dinner by the
at least it wasn’t burnt or scalding hot. 3 out of 5
9. the balance of sour, tang, sweet and spice is just heavenly. I would have licked the plate clean if I could get away with it, but no, I’m out in public and I have dignity.
We love our customers, ‘our home is yours’
Yarra River We host a weekly ‘Happy Hour’ between 5pm – 7pm every Friday, half priced wines, beers & select cocktails…and a few bites to enjoy on us!
10. We are a fantastic Wedding venue… OPEN 7 DAYS
Bonus points for the sunny dining experience and the extremely helpful
Weekly
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staff. This place makes everything on the premises except for the
Breakfast
croissants which are premade somewhere else but baked in their ovens.
Lunch
Also the menu changes according to the seasons which is another great
Dinner
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
T
W
T
F
S
S
Hours 9am – 11:45am 12pm - 3pm 6pm – 10pm
reason to come back. I love variety! The head chef was ever so kind to let me take photos and would ask how my meal was going. I like it when they do that because then you don’t feel bad when you have to let them know when something isn’t right. Since they made everything there, I was hoping they sold their relish but he was incredibly nice to give me some relish in a cup and put a lid on it. Now what place does that? A small gesture like that just made my entire day.
We reward those who follow us… competitions, give a way’s and coffee code words.
SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON komeyui (DETAILS ON PG. 3)
komeyui 396 Bay Street, Port Melbourne. Ph: 9646 2296 Words and photos by Libby Margo
About Libby Margo Libby is a lover of all things nice (foie gras, truffles and Dr Loosen Riesling) and all things downright nasty (chickenflavoured potato chips, Costco hot dogs and Stella Artois). When she is not thinking of, blogging about and eating food, she is working as an office clerk, studying law, wasting time on Supercoach and dreaming about sojourns to
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Echo Beach (Daylesford is usually fine by her though).
www.theveryveryhungrycaterpillar.com
Every now and then, I leave work early to attend appointments, go to
balls dominate the lunch menu, set menus containing the obligatory
uni and run errands. It’s a pain having to do them but on the bright side,
elements of rice, miso soup, a small side and pickles plus your choice
leaving in the middle of the day does have its perks. If I’m ultra-efficient
of hot mains are also available. I liked that each dish on the menu came
on the day, I’d have all my chores done before lunchtime which means
with a comprehensive description; for example, they explained that their
that I can find a nice place to have lunch at. The last time I managed to
Berkshire pork katsu was a ‘deep-fried, bread-crumbed Berkshire pork
do that was a few weeks ago. It was a lovely autumn day, and I had not
cutlet’. Even their description of the humble miso soup was comprehensive
only visited my GP, attended to boring uni stuff and blitzed through a job
– ‘traditional Japanese soup consisting of miso paste and dashi stock
interview (for a temporary casual job to fill my evenings, my Saturday
made from dried bonito and dried kelp’… but did we really need to know
afternoons and my bank balance with) but did all my grocery shopping
that the rice was ‘cooked carefully with traditional Japanese rice cooker’?
too. With time to kill until it was time to meet Dave for after-work nibbles, I decided to bus it to Bay Street, Port Melbourne.
I took a seat at the bar, a few spots from a lone Asian businessman who was the only other diner that day. From what I’ve read about this place
Despite having worked a stone’s throw away from the suburb a few years
so far, the fresh sashimi was king while the hot dishes, not so.
back, I had actually never explored the gentrified bayside suburb. But because Melbourne’s new gem in the Japanese dining scene, Komeyui,
The chef’s omakase was apparently worth exploring but unfortunately
is actually in Port Melbourne, I decided that that was a good excuse to
only available for dinner. In the end I chose the set menu, with the sushi
make the very short trip to postcode 3207.
and sashimi combination as my main ($35). Because the sushi/sashimi platter was considerably more expensive than the other mains, this set
Although Komeyui does a roaring trade during the dinner hours, it’s also
menu did not contain any rice, pickles or side dishes. They did, however,
open for lunch albeit with a limited menu. While sushi, sashimi and rice
retain the bowl of miso soup.
E
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As soon I took out my soon-to-be-replaced camera, head chef and
On the side, I also ordered an omusubi (Japanese rice ball). All rice balls
owner Motomu Kumano, who was at work behind the counter, asked
are equally priced at $4 and there is a decent list of flavours to choose
me if I was a photographer. ‘Har-har, I wish,’ I replied, which made him
from. I had difficulty choosing one so I got the waiter to recommend
laugh. As a graduate of Tsuji Culinary Institute, one of the finest culinary
me his favourite. He suggested the grilled salmon one, which sounded
schools in Japanese, and as a former chef at Melbourne’s Kenzan, chef
fine to me. Unfortunately, I couldn’t muster any enthusiasm for this rice
Kumano certainly knows his stuff. He left Kenzan not too long ago, and
ball. I was expecting generous chucks of grilled salmon in the middle of
opened up Komeyui only last year to showcase his skills.
the rice ball but all I got was a ball of sticky rice… and what looked and tasted like salmon floss in between the grains. The sad thing was that the
Komeyui’s food philosophy is to use the freshest possible ingredients, an
so-called grilled salmon bits were few and far between. I knew I should
attitude more restaurants need to adhere to.
have chosen the tempura prawn one instead.
Another philosophy that the restaurant follows is the idea that food should
Thankfully, that was the only downer I encountered during my meal. My
be shared with family and friends – but that’s not to say that Komeyui
sushi and sashimi combination was made up of nine pieces of sashimi, five
discriminates against solo diners if their friendliness is anything to go by.
pieces of nigiri sushi and six pieces of maki sushi – and it was wonderful. The sashimi – kingfish, tuna and salmon – were among the freshest I’ve
It didn’t take long for my miso soup to arrive. With nary a trace of MSG,
had in Melbourne. Fresher than Shoya? Well, on par, but better value
my broth had a gentle touch yet was still strong on the dashi. Probably
for money which therefore makes Komeyui’s sashimi better. I savoured
one of the better ones I’ve had.
every bite. Meanwhile, the nigiri sushi pieces were also fantastic. Along with the obligatory salmon and tuna, there was also John Dory, squid
Next, the waiter presented a complimentary serving of chawamushi
and scallops. Mmm, sweet succulent scallops. The maki sushi pieces were
(Japanese steamed savoury egg custard). It was totally unexpected but
also great, though I did wish every single piece did NOT contain salmon.
greatly appreciated nevertheless. Rarely do I come across chawanmushi that’s decent in Melbourne so I wasn’t expecting much here. To my
After saying goodbye to chef Kumano and the waiter, I stumbled into the
surprise, I was blown away. It was amazing. The egg custard was so
bright, harsh daylight and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Bay
delicate and so amazingly silky.
Street. As a result, I discovered half a dozen eateries to add to my evergrowing ‘to eat’ list and walked out of Noisette French bakery with two
Digging deep into the fragile custard, I uncovered chicken pieces, bits
boxes of pastries (another story for another time – maybe). Although
of shiitake mushroom, a gingko nut and a large piece of prawn. And
I’ve been told that the hot dishes at Komeyui are only okay, I will still go
the best bit? All the dashi, with just a slight level of sweetness, held
back for the omakase experience, more sashimi and three more bowls of
everything together. It was fantastic.
that awesome chawanmushi.
18
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Good Beer Week: St Peter’s Bar and Restaurant 6 Melbourne Place, Melbourne. Ph: 9663 9882 Words and photos by Poppet’s Window
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and refuse to enter stores that misplace an apostrophe. By combining my passion for prose, my fascination with food and my fervor for photography, I hope to leave an impression on more than just your taste buds.
www.poppetswindow.com
(DETAILS ON PG. 3)
Beer, cider and ice cream. Ice cream, cider and beer. Definitely three of
Guests were treated to a glass of Napoleone apple cider upon arrival,
my favourite things. Although until last night’s Beer and Cider Sorbet
served in a champagne flute. Apparently Kirrily never serves beer or cider
Masterclass at St Peter’s Bar and Restaurant in the city, I had no idea
in a traditional glass, and from now on, neither will I. The flavours of the
they made such a wonderful threesome.
delicate apple cider were better suited to the thin vessel, which forced us to sip slowly rather than guzzle.
The event took place as part of Good Beer Week and was hosted by beer prodigy Kirrily Waldhorn (more commonly known as Beer Diva), Ricketts
“Do you drink beer or cider out of the bottle?” asked Kirrily, who was more
Point Artisan Ice Cream and Napoleone & Co. Cider. Kirrily has been in
or less met with a “yes” from everyone. “How about wine?” she queried.
the beer industry for about 13 years. This chick knows her brews like the
While I could think of a couple of times I had consumed wine straight from
back of her hand.
the bottle, I still knew where she was going with this.
The evening was split into two parts: a beer and cider appreciation sitting
“80 per cent of taste comes through our noses,” Kirrily continued, “If there is
and a hands-on ice cream making class with Som Sayasane, owner of
one thing I want you to take away from this, it’s drink beer, drink cider, out of
Ricketts Point.
a glass… it’s the best way to appreciate all of the flavours.”
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21
It is truly amazing how the presentation of your drink can alter your
Apparently 90 per cent of the beer we drink in Australia is a lager.
preconception of what it will taste like, and therefore the entire experience of
The Hatlifter Stout was my personal favourite. A stout should be served
consuming it. As for cider served with ice at your local, if the drink is the right
around room temperature, and getting this wrong can ruin the drinking
temperature, it shouldn’t need it.
experience. The Hatlifter is a very dark, creamy drink with a strong coffee aroma, chocolate tones and a hint of liquorice. It is the perfect cold weather
Napoleone is a family owned business that grows their own fruit, so they
brew. Kirrily suggested marinating meat in stout before chucking it on the
have total control over the quality of what goes into their bottles. It shows.
barbeque. Not only is it tasty, it has been scientifically proven that it lessens
After the apple cider, we sampled the pear cider, made with two varieties of
the amount of carcinogens from barbequing. Even so, I preferred her other
pears, a beautifully crisp drink with a wonderful aftertaste of fresh pears. It
suggestion: pour stout straight over vanilla ice cream!
wasn’t overly sweet like many pear ciders, and it tasted like it was made with barely overripe fruit.
We finished with Moonshine dark scotch ale. It was incredibly warming, like cognac or port. I love the idea of enjoying this variety as an after dinner drink.
A cider, made from five different apples, aged in American oak and then back-blended with fresh apple juice was pulled out of the fridge next. I loved that the blend was an experiment.
It’s very sweet and slightly fruity and would go wonderfully with any form of dessert. Kirrily suggested using it to poach fruit, which I will definitely try. After the Moonshine, it was time to put our kitchen skills to the test. I’m not going to lie, by this point any skills I can usually lay claim to were severely compromised from the appreciation session. Ricketts Point prides itself on authentic, high quality ice cream made with fresh ingredients using original recipes. They supply their product to Melbourne’s best restaurants, bars,
A cider, made from five different apples, aged in American oak and then
cafés, gastro pubs and hotels, and work closely with wineries and producers.
back-blended with fresh apple juice was pulled out of the fridge next. Supposedly, it was meant to be a touch spicier and darker than the first
We were shown how the pros at Ricketts Point make ice cream, using very
apple cider we tried. It was a touch sharper, although we found it difficult to
specific to-the-gram ingredient measurements. We split into small groups
tell the difference overall.
and mixed together some powders, dissolved them in warm milk, added cream, egg yolk and then some of the Hatlifter Stout, before putting the
Next it was time to move on to the beer, which went wonderfully with the
mixture into some ice cream machines.
bowls of crisps, pork scratchings and nuts. The tasting component wasn’t just Kirrily spouting information – although she did that incredibly well.
The two machines take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour to make ice
Instead, it was interactive. The crowd was a mix of brewers and novices who
cream, but Som gave us a demonstration using dry ice and a mixer which
wanted to learn more about beer and cider. Everyone asked questions and
only took a few minutes.
Kirrily’s knowledge was astounding. Every now and then she’d throw in a bit of history and some facts. For example, did you know that people are
Both varieties of ice cream were divine, but the quick method didn’t quite
the only animals who don’t reject the taste of bitterness outright, and that
match up to the machine. Both had a slightly fizzy tang from the stout. The
women are more perceptive to bitterness than men?
best way to describe the flavour is that it had a similar aftertaste to a spider. The ice cream produced using the machine was incredibly smooth and silky.
But it wasn’t just about drinking. Kirrily also put our pouring skills to the test.
Som suggested adding a shot of coffee or some chocolate to the recipe to
Most people pour their beer with the glass on a slant. Kirrily’s advice? Don’t.
bring out the flavours of the beer… or simply adding more beer to taste!
Pouring a beer is all about the foam. As she pointed out, “there’s nothing
foam that sticks to the sides of the glass as it’s emptied.
We finished with Moonshine dark scotch ale. It was incredibly warming, like cognac or port. I love the idea of enjoying this variety as an after dinner drink.
The four beers we tasted came from Grand Ridge Brewery. The first was
After we’d made a mess and left a pile of dirty spoons in the kitchen, we
the Natural Blonde Wheat Beer, a light and summery Belgian-style brew
regrouped to finish off the session. The guests were ecstatic that ‘finishing
made with coriander and orange peel. The citrus seeped through noticeably
off the session’ meant eating a scoop of cider sorbet in a glass, followed by
and the slight honeyed flavour cancelled out the subtle bitterness. Kirrily
mini cones of stout ice cream topped with crispy specks of brown sugar.
worse than getting a beer that is flat.” Any beer aficionado will tell you that the head of a beer is an important taste component and a crucial part of the drinking experience. The best way to pour a beer is to leave the glass flat, create the foam first, and then fill up the glass. You should be left with a firm
recommended drinking it with fresh seafood such as scallops and prawns, Vietnamese food made with coriander to draw out the ingredients of the
If nothing else, this Good Beer Week event helped to prove my theory: it’s
beer, or even goat’s cheese.
never too cold for ice cream or too early for good quality beer.
The Brewers Pilsner came next, a fruity lager brewed with Saaz hops that
Disclaimer: I was invited as a guest of Good Beer Week to attend the Beer
creates a floral aroma. It was sweet with a malty taste and overall very easy to
and Cider Sorbet Masterclass. The opinions reported above are based solely
drink. It was interesting hearing Kirrily talk about our prejudice against lager.
on my personal experience, even if my judgment was slightly clouded by beer.
22
A CULTURAL LOVE AFFAIR We’ll keep you informed about Italian food, wine and cultural events going on around Australia and in Italy. Packed with authentic regional recipes, wine reviews and features on Italian restaurants and chefs both in Italy and Australia.
NOW ONLINE italianicious.com.au Italianicious Magazine
ItalianiciousEd
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Tom Phat 184 Sydney Road, Brunswick. Ph: 9381 2374 Words and photos by Krapow
About Krapow Born out of a love of Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, krapow chronicles foodie couple Andy and Tina’s adventures though the culinary wonderland that is Melbourne. Follow krapow and discover Melbourne’s Thai and Vietnamese restaurant scene, learn where to source ingredients to prepare authentic recipes at home and hopefully gain an insight into the interesting culture of both countries along the way.
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www.krapow.blogspot.com.au
Saturday morning we were excited to wake up and go out for breakfast
it is not as filling as a baguette. The fried eggs were nice and crunchy on
to a place in Carlton that we had been told about called Middle Fish. It is
the outside and soft in the middle which is just how we like them and the
a rarity for us to go out for breakfast on the weekend so we were really
chilli soy dressing added a really nice flavour to the dish. I will leave it to
looking forward to it. Charlie wakes with the birds so we were out very
Andy to explain more on the Viet eggs as I did only have a taste – I was
early only to discover that Middle Fish didn’t open until 10am. Ouch! But
hanging to dive into my sticky rice!
disappointment only lasted a few minutes as Andy of course had a back up plan! Enter Tom Phat…
The Black Sticky Rice with Mango and Yoghurt was unbelievable. The black sticky rice was lovely and plump and the yoghurt had a
After a short drive to Sydney Road we arrived at Tom Phat. Upon arrival
sharp sourness to it which I really enjoyed. My favourite part of the dish
I was immediately excited. The fit out was very cool and the front
was the placement of the mango. There was a sort of mashed mango
window seat was a lounge with cushions – perfect seating for a lazy
on top which was cool in temperature and then on the bottom there
Saturday morning.
was chunks of warm mango. When I first dipped my spoon into the bottom and tasted a piece of the warm mango I was in heaven! This is
After ordering coffees (which were excellent by the way), we ordered
a dish that starts off great and ends up amazing. A perfect (and a bit
Black Sticky Rice with Mango, Coconut and Jaggery Yoghurt and Viet
indulgent) breaky!
Eggs with Hanoi Baguette (we also ordered good old poached eggs and toast for Charlie and she was suitably impressed – well the eggs ended
We really enjoyed our morning at Tom Phat and I know we will be back
up all over her which is a sign of a very satisfied toddler).
soon. It looks like it would be a great place to go for dinner and a few drinks. They have another room next door to the room we were in and
They were out of Hanoi Baguettes for the Viet eggs so they served it
again it has an interesting fit out with a what looks to be a well stocked
with roti instead which we thought was a master stroke. We love roti and
bar. This room was not really open when we were there in the morning.
25
Recipe: Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownies Recipe and photos by Michele Froidevaux
About Michele Froidevaux Half Malaysian, half Swiss girl in her twenties. A graphic designer by day, and a food blogger by night. Loves baking, cooking and mostly eating. A real sweet tooth and a weakness for macarons, meatballs, and ribs. Also has an obsession with buying cookbooks. On weekends you’ll usually find me stuffing my face with something delicious!
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www.ironchefshellie.com
This recipe ain’t for the light hearted… diet conscious… or diabetic.
Method:
This is a full on chocolate peanut butter brownie. This recipe does come from a USA recipe in an issue of SBS’s Feast Magazine, so I should have
1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Fill a small saucepan one-third full with water
been expecting it was going to be a full blown sugar explosion. I didn’t
and bring to a gentle simmer. Place the chocolate and butter in a small
even use all the peanut butter mixture, let alone drizzle it on top to serve.
heatproof bowl, place over pan and stir until chocolate is melted (don’t
Needless to say, it was moreish, and could possibly be made better by
let the bowl touch the water). Allow to cool slightly.
using crunchy peanut butter. 2. Whisk eggs and sugar for 4 minutes or until thick and pale. Stir in
Ingredients:
chocolate mixture, flour and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Pour mixture into a greased, lined, deep 20cm square cake pan. Set aside to slightly thicken.
200g dark chocolate, chopped 200g undated butter, chopped, at room temperature
3. To make peanut butter mixture, heat all the ingredients in a saucepan
4 eggs, lightly beaten
over medium heat for 45 seconds or until just starting to soften. Stir to
295g caster sugar
combine. Reserve one-third of the mixture to serve. Drop spoonfuls of
100g plain flour
remaining peanut butter mixture into chocolate mixture and lightly swirl
Melted chocolate and ice cream to serve
with a skewer or knife. Bake for 1 hour or until just firm to touch. Cool for 5 minutes. Remove from pan and transfer to a wire rack.
FOR THE PEANUT BUTTER MIXTURE 500g peanut butter
4. Cut into squares and serve topped with warmed peanut butter mixture
100g unsalted butter
and melted chocolate, with ice-cream on the side. Store in an airtight
55g icing sugar
container in single layers separated by baking paper for up to a week.
VISITING VICTORIA’S WINERIES THE OFFICIAL GUIDE TO VICTORIA’S WINE REGIONS IS FREE
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27
wine reviews Words and photo by Krystina Menegazzo
ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who completed her winemaking degree whilst being a gypsy working in vintages throughout Australia and Italy. Finally she decided to return home and sell wine instead. In her spare time she cooks, eats, drinks buon vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
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www.ladonnadelvino.com
MONTEVECCHIO Rosso 2011
the famous COS winery in the same area. Her wines are produced from
Heathcote, Victoria. RRP $23.00
biodynamically grown grapes and produced in a minimalist, almost rustic
If this wine were a mix tape, it would inevitably be a hodgepodge of music
manner, with natural fermentations and no fining or filtration.
sung in different languages. To the unsuspecting, that might seem like
I brought this along to a dinner at Vicasia in Albert Park, where my criteria
a confusing compilation, but in fact, it could not have been put together
was to ‘bring a fragrant red’. I chose wisely. At least aroma-wise, I attempted
more professionally. The Montevecchio Rosso is produced by the avant-
to dig a little deeper than Wikipedia and pick up more than just ‘grapes’.
garde and grape-loving Chalmers family, now working out of Heathcote in
There were cranberries and forest floor aromas in this mid-bodied, bright
central Victoria. It is a co-fermented field blend of shiraz, lagrein, nero d’Avola
acid red. Admittedly, the rusticity of the winemaking technique seemed to
and sagrantino grapes, the latter three being Italian grape varieties that
have spread to the final product with a playful whiff of horse. Looking beyond
originate from completely different regions with their own unique dialects:
that though, I found the wine was overall wonderfully balanced, lively and
Trentino Alto-Adige in the north, Sicily in the south and Umbria in the centre,
with ample wild berry and mineral nuances to dominate the scene. Imported
respectively. Hence the hodgepodge comment.
by Addley Clark Fine Wines.
Each component in this blend works to add its own magic. The shiraz offers a mountain of flavours that come across in a thick thread of violets,
HIRSCH Zöbing Riesling 2010
peppercorns and an unmistakable scent reminiscent of red meat slapped on
Kamptal, Austria. RRP $38.00
the barbecue. These sit happily alongside the cooler plum of the lagrein,
A few months ago, I thought it sounded like a good idea to attempt an
the juicy body of the nero d’Avola and a lasting black cherry element and
Austrian wine scholarship. The prize for the students who scored the best
dusty finish of the sagrantino. With a light tannic backbone to finish, this
in the exam was a trip to Austria’s famous wine regions. I did not come even
estate-grown and made style is eminently quaffable and fortunately not one
close to winning, but the main point of my attempt was to stick my nose in
to hurt the wallet either. Available from Bottega Tasca, Vintage Cellars CBD
a book and study up on a country I was not as familiar with (compared to
and Rathdowne Cellars.
say, Australia and Italy). The other enlightening tidbit I picked up from that experience was just how bloody delicious the array of Austrian wines are.
OCCHIPINTI Il Frappato 2009
The focus for the scholarship was on the white wines, which were generally
Sicily, Italy. RRP $65.00
either Grüner Veltliner or Riesling. We were given a range of wines to try that
I was drawn to this bottle because like so many things out there in Wine Land,
showcased their beauty hailing from all the different regions in their own
I had never heard of nor tried the frappato grape before. Of course, being the
unique style.
geek that I am, I headed straight to my trusty wine books to get a better idea
Months later and I have picked up this Riesling from the Kamptal region in
of what was in store. The red frappato grape grows in the southeastern end
Austria, located 70km north of Vienna near the Danube and an area more
of Sicily near the town of Vittoria where it is commonly found in a blend for
influenced by the rivers, thus experiencing hot days and cool nights. The
Sicily’s only DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Thankfully I didn’t go straight
Hirsch Estate was founded in the late 1800s and is today run by great
to Wikipedia, which simply stated that frappato produces ‘wines with a
grandson, Johannes Hirsch. Those Austrians sure know how to keep it in
distinct grapey aroma’. Wow. Who’d have thunk it?!
the family. Zöbing is the name of the village near the 15-year old vineyard
Occhipinti is the label made by a young Sicilian lass named Arianna Occhipinti.
where the fruit was sourced. This dry Riesling shows Tahitian lime acidity, wet
She is already a star in her region and to be honest, I think I’ve developed a
stone flavours and a slatey finish. It is taut and mouthwatering, just like that
little bit of a crush after reading up on her. She studied winemaking over the
other flexed Austrian export, Arnold Schwartzenegger, used to be. Bottled
last decade under the guidance of her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti, who operates
under screwcap.
29
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ROAST & RED LUNCH – Royal Mail HotEl on SpEnCER During the month of June, we’re offering a two course ‘Roast & Red’ Lunch, Monday to Thursday.
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Enjoy a hearty mid week traditional pub roast with all of the trimmings, celebrating Victorian produce including Gippsland beef.
WHERE: Royal Mail Hotel on Spencer 519 Spencer Street, West Melbourne
Matched with a glass of Cornella Ridge Estate Heathcote Shiraz & a Winter fruit crumble, what a delightful way to warm up this Winter!
COST: $35.00 ‘Roast & Red’ Roast Main, Dessert & glass wine
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Transport Public Bar
Café Euro
Plane Tree Café
Locanda
Waterside Hotel
Café On Bourke
Roozervelts
Schnitz
Young and Jacksons Pub
Café Tono
Sheni's Curries
Cafenatics
Silk road
Sushi Burger The Maj Café (Her Majesty's Theatre)
FEDERATION SQUARE
Carlton Club
Strozzi
Toby's Estate
Beer Deluxe
Degani
Summit Café and Bar
Trunk Bar and Café
Café Chinotto
Donatos Café
Switchboard Café
Urban Deli
Riverland Bar
Earl Canteen
The Brazilian Bean
Elephant and Wheelbarrow
The Kitchen Cat
EXPLORATION LANE
Florentino Bar
The Sherlock Holmes
League of Honest Coffee
Gloria Jeans
The Trust
GPO Café
Treasury Rest and Bar
FLINDERS LANE
Hudson's
Tutti In Piazza
101 Café bar
Imperial Hotel
Zuffa
Adelphi
Ito Noodle Café
Zuroona Café
Bluestone
Affogato
Breadwell
Aloi Na
Izakaya Hachibeh
FLINDERS STREET
Time Out Café Transport/Transit franklin street Miss Libertine HARDWARE LANE
Korova
DEGRAVES STREET
Brunetti (City Square)
Basic Bites
Lanes Edge Bar
Barber on Degraves
Bull and Bear Tavern
Campari House
Langleys Café
Café Andiamo
Bull Run
Charlie’s Bar
Movida Terrazza
Degraves Espresso
Café 53
Creperie Le Triskel
Nando's
Grill’d
Café Rema
Khokolat Bar
Nudel Bar
Issu
Cafenatics
La La Land
Pellegrinis
Little Cupcakes
Cecconis
Max Café Bar
Red Violin
Sea Salt
Chin Chin
POP Restaurant and Bar
Romano's
The Quarter
City Library Café
Settebello
Royal Melbourne Hotel
TOFWD Deli
Coda Bar Restaurant
Tastebuds of Melbourne
Salida
Coffee Eclipse
The Mill
Shuji Sushi
Vialetto Restaurant
DOCKLANDS
Crema Espresso Bar
Society Restaurant
Banc Café
Cumulus
Spaghetti Tree
Coffee Gauge
Friends Café
Spleen Bar
La Tazzina
Full Plate Café
Misty
Squires Loft Steakhouse
Lamore Docklands
Glicks
Movida
Street Café
Nixon Hotel
Il Cubico Café
The Bund
Squires Loft Steakhouse
KCL
The Mess Hall
Watermark
Lustre Lounge
Basement @ 350 Latrobe
Nighcat Bar
Blaq Café Bar
Tuscan Bar Grill
HOSIER LANE
LA TROBE STREET
Twenty Seconds Café
ELIZABETH STREET
Overdraft Café
Breeze Café
The Harbour Kitchen
Café Scalletti
Papa Goose
Café Nostimo
Café Victoria
Roasted Coffee Bar
Cafenatics on Latrobe
COLLINS STREET
Citi Noodle Café
Rosati
Club Chef
Alfreds Place Café
Coffea
Superfino
Coffee Academy
Bistrot D'Orsay
Edelweiss Café
Swiss Club Victoria
Duke of Kent Hotel
Blue Bag
Food Inc
Tazio Birraria Pizzeria
Frescatis Fine Foods
Box on Collins
Hudsons Coffee
Terra Rossa
Internet Café
Café Esc
Jasper Kitchen
The Trust
Kanda Sushi Noodle Bar
Charles Dickens Tavern
Lord of the Fries
Verge
Klik food and Drink
Collins Quarter
Piazza Vittoria
Yak Bar
Latrobe Café
Degani
Spiga
Mr Tulk (State Library North)
Oriental Spoon
Tengo Sushi
NEWQUAY PROMENADE
Crown Café Bakery
Spicy Noodle Café
Terrace Deli
Café Medici
Druids Café Bar
William Angliss Bistro
Un Caffe Bar
Fish Bar
Easy Way Tea
Liquid Bar Café
GiGi Sushi Bar
LITTLE BOURKE STREET
LITTLE LONSDALE STREET
Live Bait
Gogo Sushi
Bar Humbug
1000 Pound Bend
Mecca Bar
Hi Fi Bar and Ballroom
Brother Baba Budan
166 Espresso Bar
The Lounge room
Melbourne Town Hall
Café 600 (Hotel Ibis)
Angliss Restaurant
Vic Harbour Kitchen
Nando's
Ishiya Stonegrill Dining
Café 111
Waterside Oriental Bistro
Nelayan Indonesian
Korean BBQ Buffet
Café 18
Kri Kri
Don Too
RANKINS LANE
Oxford Scholar
La Di Da
Equinox
Manchester Press
Soul Café
Little B
Gianni Luncheon
Longrain
Giraffe Café
RUSSELL STREET
Sushi Sushi
Mezzo Bar and Grill
Horse Bazaar
A1 Café Restaurant
The Lounge
Mrs Parmas
Il Vicoletto
Bean Room
The Order
Plus 39 Pizza
Koukos Café
Blu Point Café
The Wine Bar
Punch Lane
Match
Café 294
Three Below
Scugnizzo
Modo Mio Café
Chilli Café
Time Out Café
Section 8 (Chinatown)
Oddfellows Hotel
China Bar
Transport/Transit
Shuji sushi
Rue Bebelons
Hawkers Café
Your Thai Rice Noodle
SMXL Café
Seamstress
Ian Potter Centre
Yoyogi
Softbelly Bar
Shop 7 Espresso
Infinity Café Bar
Sorry Grandma
Strike
Ishikai Japanese café
the causeway
Sushi & Bon Apetit
The Little Café on Healeys Lane
Izakaya Den (Basement)
Grasshopper’s Feast
The Apartment
Troika Bar
James Squire Brewhouse
Vine Café Bar
York Café
King of Kings
WILLIAM STREET
Postal Hall
Illia Café and Bar
Red Hummingbird
La Stradda Café
Seoul House
Slate
Syn Bar
The Mint
LITTLE COLLINS STREET Bar Lourinha Basso Bridie O Reilly's Brisq Cacao Fine Chocolates Café De Tuscany Caffe e Torto Champagne Lounge Chestnut Exchange Café Council House 2 Elevenses Exchange Coffee Famish'd Fiddler Pub Gills Diner Gordon's Café & Bar Guava Bean Hairy Canary Hudson's Irish Times Pub Kartel Kitten club Menzies Tavern Oriental Tea House Ortigia Pizzeria Pony Quists Coffee Rare Steakhouse Saki Sushi Bar Stellini Bar
LONSDALE STREET Aspro Ble Babbo Baguette Club Baraki Club Retro Colonial Hotel Degani
Old Town
Starbucks
Teppansan The Portland Hotel
QUEEN STREET
Two Fingers
Bellini (ANZ Building)
Won Ton House
Chaise Lounge
Zmeg's Café
Degani Mercat Cross Hotel
Demi Tasse
Michaelangelo
Emerald Peacock
SPENCER STREET
Encore Café Bar
Carron Tavern
Golden Monkey
Pensione Hotel
Nashi
J Walk Café
SPRING STREET
Romano's
Japanese Pub Shogun
Appitizer Kubklam
Kenny's Bakery
Café 201
LatteLove Café
City Wine Shop
Le Traiteur
Elms Family Hotel
Legals Café Bar
Federici Café
Madame Kay's
Hudson's Coffee
Urban Deli
Lime Café Bar
Wheat Restaurant Bar
The European
MEYERS PLACE
SWANSTON STREET
Lily Blacks
3 Below
Loop
Beer Deluxe
Waiters Restaurant
Café L'Incontro
Hikari Sushi
Muleta's Nourish Segafredo Speck
MELBOURNE
Café Mimo Citi Espresso Claypot King
ISSUE 16
FREE
There are an additional 780 distributors around Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at www.gram.net.au.
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