GRAM Magazine: October 2014 // Edition 44

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Spring into Bendigo

BENDIGO’S ARTS, FOOD , W I NE , M USI C, AN D FASHI ON I N FUL L B L O O M

SPRING EVENTS

As the warmer days and clear skies appear, over , of Bendigo’s famed-tulips open to brighten the beautiful heritage streets.

• • • • • • • • • •

A sunny glow beckons you outdoors to enjoy the array of springtime events. While in Bendigo, explore these streets to discover the heart of Bendigo. Enjoy our arts and culture led by the acclaimed Bendigo Art Gallery, dine at award-winning restaurants and cafés, unearth unique fashions and collectables. Relive the gold rush by visiting our world-class attractions, and taste quality local wines and produce from markets, nearby farms, and surrounding vineyards.

For more events, tickets and weekend accommodation packages, freecall the Bendigo Visitor Centre on 1800 813 153 or visit:

Image credit: Blues & Roots: Mick Griffin. / SASI 210962

Bendigo is only 90 minutes from Melbourne Airport along the Calder Freeway and 90–120 minutes via V/Line from Southern Cross Station.

www.bendigotourism.com

LA

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Heathcote Wine and Food Festival 4–5 October Bendigo Heritage Uncorked 10–11 October Bendigo Oktoberfest 18 October Bendigo Cup 29 October Maldon Folk Festival 31 October – 3 November Big Hill Food & Wine Festival 1 November Vegecarien – care for yourself and your pets 1 November Race the Train – Castlemaine/Maldon 2 November Bendigo Blues & Roots Festival 6–9 November Bendigo Craft Beer & Cider Festival 15 November

@explorebendigo #explorebendigo

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Bendigo Art Gallery • Until 26 October 2014 From Queen Victoria’s drawers to the show stopping Bottega Veneta red carpet gown worn by Emma Watson – don’t miss this most revealing exploration of fashion’s hidden history in this international premiere Tickets 03 5434 6100 • Packages 1800 813 153 www.undressedbendigo.com

Official Hotel Partner

Exhibition organised by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Fashion photograph, John French, 1940s. Museum no. F442/6 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London


As I sit here writing my piece this month, sunshine

ON THE COVER:

streams through my front window and the weekend

Grapes are rich in polyphenolic

spent cultivating my spring veggie garden a couple

phytochemical compound

of weeks ago, is paying dividends, with fresh parsley

resveratrol. Resveratrol is one of

and basil on the menu tonight. This time of year is

the powerful anti-oxidant which

truly my favourite. As everyone re-stocks their fill

has been found to play a protective

of Vitamin D the air of optimism and the promise of summer days

role against cancers of colon and

is palpable, and energising. And with the sunshine, also comes the

prostate, coronary heart disease,

dining!

degenerative nerve disease,

This edition we welcome back I’m So Hungree, Ms I-Hua (and the

Alzheimer’s disease and viral/ fungal

boy), De-Brief Me and Tim Baxter. Lauren Bruce and Georgia Haynes

infections. Grapes are also a rich

travelled north to Mildura to sit down with Australian icon, Stefano

source of micronutrient minerals like

de Pieri and we also celebrate one of Victoria’s best wine events,

copper, iron and manganese and a

the Heathcote Wine and Food Festival. Jess from My Clean Treats

good source of vitamin-C, vitamin

also brings us a delicious and guilt free dessert, perfect for spring

A, vitamin K, carotenes, B-complex

afternoon baking.

vitamins such as pyridoxine,

Jess Hourigan - Editor.

riboflavin, and thiamin.

INSIDE OCTOBER GRAM

4.

4. TWO LITTLE PIGS

8. HOW TO DRINK

12. RAW TRADER

14. MISTER JENNINGS

I’M SO HUNGREE

TIM BAXTER

DE-BRIEF ME

MS I-HUA AND THE BOY

18. HEATHCOTE WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL

23. MELBOURNE’S BEST COCKTAILS

24. STEFANO DE PIERI

28. RECIPE: CHIA, BANANA AND WALNUT LOAF

LAUREN BRUCE + GEORGIA HAYNES

MY CLEAN TREATS

REGULARS: 22. WE LOVE

30. WINE REVIEWS 31. BEER REVIEWS

32. WHAT’S NEW AND WHAT’S ON 34. DISTRIBUTORS

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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Victoria. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

Editor

Advertising sales

Head office

JESS HOURIGAN

MEGAN BEATRICE JACKSON Email: megan@grammagazine.com.au Phone: 0424 870 552

Rothesay Media Pty Ltd 268 McKenzie Street Golden Square VIC 3555 info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au

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CAB AUDITED

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TWO LITTLE PIGS: NOT SO LITTLE

DUCK FAT FRIES: DIFFICULT TO RESIST

4

BUBBLE AND SQUEAK: POACHED EGGS SITTING ON A CHICKPEA FRITTER


TWO LITTLE PIGS CHARCUTERIE AND GRIND 146 Sydney Road, Brunswick. Ph: 9939 4042 Words and photos by I’m So Hungree

ABOUT I’M SO HUNGREE I am a Melbournite with a penchant for sweets, eating my way around Melbourne (and the world!). I love good food and photography. I also suffer from ‘Oooh Shiny Thing!’ syndrome. My blog is my pretty eating diary and focuses on eating out experiences. I hope you all enjoy

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reading as much as I enjoy sharing!

WWW.IMSOHUNGREE.BLOGSPOT.COM TWITTER: @IMSOHUNGREE | FACEBOOK: IMSOHUNGREE

On a cool, but comfortable Sunday morning, three little piggies and their

an impromptu table of six, but fortunately there’s a relatively spacious

partners went out for brunch. Jo had organised a brunch catch up for

courtyard with bigger dining tables, and some darned strong heaters,

herself, Bryan and I, and our partners at Two Little Pigs in Brunswick.

which I made sure to curl up next to…Brad can deal with the cold…right? Coffees and hot drinks came in cheerful yellow crockery, coffees looked

As the name might suggest, the cafe is mad for pork, with sausages and

smooth and my chai was hearty and rich.

cured meats hanging across the room as you walk in. The tall white boys of the table needed their fill, and opted for the Two I was initially worried as we walked by that there would be no space for

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

Little Pigs, which really wasn’t all that little!

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NUTELLA DOUGHCAKES: VERY TASTY

PORK BELLY WALDORF: INSANELY DELICIOUS

PORK BELLY WALDORF: INSANELY DELICIOUS

I LOVED THAT THE GUYS AT TWO LITTLE PIGS WEREN’T AFRAID TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES FOR ‘BREAKFAST’ AND REALLY DISH UP SOMETHING REALLY INTERESTING A giant plate of free range eggs, thick cut bacon, house made sausage,

And what did I order? Uh well, one of the few dishes without pork. What’s wrong with me? Who knows. But goodness, I still left happy. My Bubble and Squeak with poached eggs sitting on a chickpea fritter of braised beef, caramelised onion, truffle oil and corn kernels was comforting, with creamy fritters and the strong aroma of truffle tapping you on the nose. Delightful, and not overly heavy.

duck fat mushrooms, spinach, mashed potatoes and apple chutney, the plate must have been double the size of my face! With bleedy poached

To wrap up, we got brunch dessert (again, six people, sharing the load,

eggs, the boys chowed down their plates, Brad completely finishing the lot

good times) which was one of the specials of the day; Nutella doughcakes

with a satisfied lick of his lips. I assume all good.

with strawberry butterscotch ice cream. They were so fluffy, and as the name suggests, are made up of quite a lot of dough. I definitely could have

Jo and Bryan’s partner, Fatbee (as he’s called), went for Pea’s and Ham, a

gone for more Nutella inside, but overall, still very tasty and something

serve of crisp roasted pork belly, with poached free range eggs, green pea

different to your average pancake.

veloute and some sourdough toast. From not knowing anything about Two Little Pigs, I left absolutely besotted What a stunner this was! In aroma, in colour, and in the audible crunch

with it. I love a menu where every item on it has me excited, as there’s so

that conjured food envy with each bite. I loved that the guys at Two Little

many different things on it that I haven’t seen before. But more than that,

Pigs weren’t afraid to push the boundaries for breakfast and really dish up

it’s beautifully presented and deliciously executed as well. I’m intrigued by

something really interesting, and maybe a touch rich, but that’s what the

the charcuterie, and although I don’t think I could make the commitment

fresh pea veloute is there for.

to have it for breakfast, I do hope to meander down for a late lunch to give it a go sometime.

Bryan opted for a lunch dish, the pork belly waldorf sitting on the fence between healthy and decadent, with roast pork belly, celery, royal gala

TWO LITTLE PIGS

and granny smith apples, walnuts, egg yolk mayo and preserved lemon.

CUISINE: Coffee, Breakfast/Brunch, Charcuterie

The pork belly looked fantastic, and although the ‘salad’ looked relatively

ADDRESS: 146 Sydney Road, Brunswick

simple, it was insanely delicious. The yolk mayo really adding a delightfully

HOURS: Mon – Sun 7am – 4pm

rich edge to the freshness.

FACEBOOK: twolittlepigscharcuterieandgrind

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PINT METRIC CUPS FL. OZ 100ml 3½ 125ml ½ 4 ¼ 150ml 5 200ml 7 250ml 1 8¾ ½ 275ml 10 300ml 11 400ml 14 500ml 2 17 1 570ml 20 750ml 3 26 1¾ 1.0L 4 35

OVEN TEMPERATURES

LIQUIDS

˚C ˚F 120

250

140

275

150

300

170

325

180

350

190

375

200

400

220

425

230

450

240

475

WEIGHTS IMPERIAL METRIC ½ oz 15g ¾ oz 20g 1oz 30g 2oz 60g 3oz 90g 4oz (¼lb) 125g 5oz 155g 6oz 185g 7oz 220g 8oz (½lb) 250g 9oz 280g

˚C x 1.8 + 32 = ˚F ˚F - 32 ÷ 1.8 = ˚C

IMPERIAL METRIC 10 oz 315g 11 oz 345g 12oz (¾lb) 375g 13oz 410g 14oz 440g 15oz 470g 16oz (1lb) 500g 24oz 750g 32oz (2lb) 1kg 48oz (3lb) 1.5kg 64oz (4lb) 2kg

a handy guide to help you in the kitchen

A COOK’S COMPANION SPOONS

1 teaspoon = 5ml 1 dessertspoon = 10ml 1 tablespoon = 20ml

MEAT CUTS

FLANK Skirt Cheap mince

SHOULDER Blade chops Spare rib chop Rolled shoulder

NECK/CHUCK

braise/grill/pan fry grill roast

Braising steak Best mince Stewing steak Chuck steak

LOIN Loin steak Loin rack joint Tender loin

CUPS ONE CUP Flour Uncooked Rice White Sugar Brown Sugar Butter Golden Syrup

IMP. 4¾oz 6½oz 7oz 6½oz 8oz 12oz

METRIC 150g 200g 225g 200g 250g 350g

grill/braise roast/braise/pot roast roast/braise/pan fry

FORE RIB Rib eye steak Fore rib roast Rolled rib Single rib

BELLY Spare ribs Rolled belly

stew/braise pan fry stew/braise stew/braise

roast/pot roast roast

grill/pan fry roast roast grill/pan fry

stir fry pan fry

SIRLOIN Rolled sirloin Sirloin steak T-bone steak Fillet steak

RUMP TOPSIDE SILVERSIDE THICK FLANK LEG

roast grill/pan fry grill/pan fry grill/pan fry grill/pan fry roast/pot roast pot roast pot roast stew/braise

LEG Leg steaks Leg joint

grill/braise roast

r um

eek

p

ch

l

jow

E V E R Y T H I N G A G R E AT C H E F N E E D S F O R E V E R Y O C C A S I O N

Scan this code to download a copy of the Chef’s Hat Kitchen Cheatsheet

www.chefshat.com.au


8

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4


HOW TO DRINK “The only time I ever said no to a drink, was when I misunderstood the question” Words by Tim Baxter. Photos by Amanda Malone.

ABOUT TIM BAXTER With over 25 years’ experience in the food and drinks industry, Tim is the owner of one of central Victoria’s most celebrated restaurants, The Dispensary Enoteca, located in Bendigo. Tim is now celebrated as one of the country’s finest authorities on food and drinks. “If Tim Baxter has not created the best all-round drinks list in Australia, he must be close”.

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The Age Epicure, 2012

AMANDA MALONE: Freelance graphic designer (0468 690 420)

Anyone who knows me, knows I’m obsessed with drinks. The sheer variety

A good drink, no matter what it is, poured at the right time, in the right

and multitude of them, and their vastly differing flavours boggles my mind.

glass, with the right dish has the ability to turn lunch into a legacy, a meal

I’ve spent the past 25 years reading, learning and of course imbibing in as

into a miracle and an evening into an event. Here are a few tricks, ideas

many of the world’s unique drinks as possible.

and insights to help you improve your drinking pleasure, add cachet and pizzazz to your next dinner party and help you identify which restaurants

I respect drinks so much that I’d go as far to say they represent at least

and bars are really looking after your needs!

half of any decent meal. I see little point in great food without great drinks. Give me any opportunity to discuss drinks and I become a veritable

The Australian wine industry has spent considerable time, effort and

boozehound with verbal diarrhoea.

money over the past 40 years convincing us that the only way to emulate the aesthetic sophistication of European cool that we so crave, is by

Drinks should be respected, revered, admired and enjoyed in the same

drinking wine.

way as food.

BY

Every action we take has an impact on our environment. The I am eco™ range takes the guess work out of environmental responsibility. Make the switch to sustain your relationship with the environment. For more information call Detpak customer service 1300 362 620 or visit www.detpak.com

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9


WINE is a truly brilliant drink – but it’s just one of many. Far too many of us just go straight for a glass of Shiraz before we even think about what we are going to eat or how we feel. We have been brainwashed. Nothing makes a dinner party more exciting than a designer meal, slaved over by the host, featuring artisan produce, cooked with respect for all ingredients, featuring unique and playful flavour interpretations, all showcased by intricate attention to detail. However nothing makes the same dinner party seem quite so hollow as being served bad or inappropriate wine. It certainly doesn’t need to be either hard or costly to serve wine of the same quality as the meal you enjoy. Any wine guide or your local bottle shop staff member should be able to help you out – whatever your budget. My “drink yardstick” for all bars and restaurants has always been a CAMPARI and soda – one of the world’s greatest aperitifs – that’s sadly far too often butchered. When made correctly, this is the liquid equivalent of sitting in a Venetian piazza in springtime. Campari is not a spirit, but part of group of aperitifs called ‘bitters’ and they require a minimum of 45ml or 60ml (not 30ml) when poured – otherwise the drink is watery, limp and insipid with an imbalance of proportions, that creates a bitterness not present when made properly. The human perception of bitterness is quite acute and increasing the dilution of Campari will not change this much. But by minimising the Campari our palate will detect the increasing lack of sweetness (as Campari is both bitter and sweet) – essential to balance the bitterness and to enjoy the drink. The photos on the previous page show you how to make a Campari and soda correctly (any tall hi-ball type glass will suffice). ICE is virtually free, yet so often we get our drink in a tumbler with just a couple of ice cubes sweating themselves into an early grave. Quite simply - the more ice the better. Ice cubes keep drinks at the temperature they are intended to be served at. The more ice – the longer it will stay at the desired temperature. Ice cubes should be solid – never hollow, and preferably spherical, thereby having the minimum possible surface area so the melt speed is slowest. The bigger the ice cubes the better. Crushed ice dilutes drinks very quickly and has few uses in drinks outside slushies at fast food stores and cinemas – though it’s mandatory for Brambles, Mojitos, Mint Juleps and a few other classic cocktails. When shaking a COCKTAIL always fill the shaker with solid cubes and shake it furiously and with such intensity that it feels like the skin on your fingers might peel off with frostbite. The key is to get the cocktail very cold, very quickly. The outside of the shaker should be covered in condensation when done. And here’s a tip for home - If making ice cubes for a special event, try using mineral water (unbelievably pure and clean). Gone are the days when we were forced to use badly formulated sugary MIXERS from profiteering multinational companies. There is now a vast array of unique and interesting artisan soft drinks and mixers on the market. They make such a huge difference to the quality of your mixed drink. Use a quality tonic water and you can actually taste your gin’s botanicals, and not just sugar and quinine. Many of the best mixers have much less sugar than their supermarket counterparts and are therefore less cloying on the palate, as well as allowing the flavours of your chosen spirit to flow through. When you GARNISH a drink always remember you should always be able to squeeze the juice out of any fruit garnish. A decent chunk of lemon, lime, orange, cucumber or whatever your preference, shouldn’t be flaccid and drowning hopelessly in the drink.

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It should be sitting upright, substantial, proud and erect like the iceberg that sunk the Titanic. With the amazing array of local and imported CRAFT BEERS available out there now, it still beggars belief that so many restaurants and cafes still offer the same range of mass marketed corporate lagers. Even a small section of a fridge devoted to a selection of great local craft beers and inspired and interesting brews from around the world shows that you care about your customer’s or guest’s many modern and varied drinking tastes. You wouldn’t have just 10 chicken dishes on your food menu, or only Shiraz on your wine list, so why have 10 bland Euro styled lagers on

a passion to inspire....

your beer menu. Attica in Ripponlea is widely recognised as Australia’s best restaurant. It also happens to have one of the country’s best beer lists. Whilst modest in numbers, stocking just 16 different beers from

Cedar hospitality has made it an enjoyable experience to fit out our restaurants and keep them looking amazing - from kitchen to the table.

around Victoria and the world, each one is an absolute cracker; the styles and prices are varied and each beer has an individual tasting note. There is something for everyone’s palate and all of them could be favourably matched to their amazing food. Every restaurant owner should check their list, as it’s a shining example of balance, quality and integrity.

Benjamin Cooper

The Lucas Group Executive chef

125 Flinders Ln, Melbourne VIC 3000 (03) 8663 2000

La Tavola

cedarhospitality.com

223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com


FIT-OUT BY DESIGN TEAM STUDIO Y: CLEAN AND MODERN


10 Sutherland Street, Melbourne Ph: 0478 692 008 Words and photos by De-Brief Me

ABOUT DE-BRIEF ME Elaine is a mother of two, a doctor, and a food and lifestyle blogger. Join her on her dining adventures, cooking experiments and so much more at de-briefme.com.

WWW.DE-BRIEFME.COM INSTAGRAM: DEBRIEFME | FACEBOOK: DEBRIEFME

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Having a subscription to Gwyneth Paltrow’s goop, and having read

Our seven-month-old is addicted to the complexion smoothie, made up of

about various raw food fads taking the world by storm, I’ve never really

coconut water, apple, mango, maca, blackberries. And yes, she does have

delved wholeheartedly into this particular health food craze. Yes we

skin as soft a baby’s!

have a fortnightly organic fruit and veg delivery service, and yes I like to eat fruit all the time and raw salads every now and again…but I really

We also sampled the chocolate and raspberry slice and the carrot cake.

do love cooking with my awesome electrical appliances and I love eating

The slice was a bit grainy in the middle section but lovely and creamy on

everything, completely unrestricted. And heck…I like my food hot most of

top. You could taste the tartness from the raspberries and it wasn’t at all

the time – thank you very much!

overwhelmingly sweet. Such an interesting dessert.

SAMYNE HAS MANAGED TO CREATE A MENU CONSISTING OF ORGANIC FOOD THAT IS NOT ONLY VEGAN BUT GLUTEN FREE, DAIRY FREE, SUGAR FREE AND PALEO.

The carrot cake had a lot of texture as well but wasn’t as sweet as most carrot cakes. I think the texture and the fact that it wasn’t too sweet allowed us to actually taste every single ingredient. It was lovely. We finished with the strawberry chia pudding. This was probably the least

But I really do have to take my hat off to the owner, creator and chef of Raw

sweet and most sour of them all. But I loved the texture of the chia seeds

Trader – Emily Samyne. With a background in food technology, Samyne

and it’s definitely inspired me to attempt to make chia pudding sometime

has managed to create a menu consisting of organic food that is not only

soon.

vegan but gluten free, dairy free, sugar free and paleo. She’s even managed to make them taste really good. Everything is made on the premises and

Overall, Raw Trader is a great place in that it cares to cater for people with

is packed full of superfoods such as inca berries, raw cacao, chia, acai, goji

food intolerances – which are real. For the rest of us fortunate ones that

berries and maca. There are coffees, juices, smoothies, chocolates, cakes,

can still eat anything, it’s worthwhile keeping in mind that superfoods are

slices, tarts, protein balls, and even ice creams and sorbets to choose from.

beneficial for everyone.

It’s a safe place to take people with food intolerances. RAW TRADER The fit-out by design team Studio Y is clean and modern, yet remains

CUISINE: Coffee, Desserts/Ice Cream, Organic

true to Raw Trader’s name – exuding a natural and organic feel with the

ADDRESS: 10 Sutherland Street, Melbourne

recycled wooden wall panelling and lacquered concrete flooring.

HOURS: Mon – Sun 7am – 4pm WEB: www.rawtrader.com.au

First I tried the energiser smoothie – a delicious mix of almond milk, banana,

FACEBOOK: rawtrader14

chia and maca. It was quite delicious. Not too sweet but lovely and creamy.

TWITTER: rawtrader14

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13


CHOCOLATE, CARDAMOM, CRUNCH: A PERFECT ENDING

14


MISTER JENNINGS 142 Bridge Road, Richmond. Ph: 9078 0113 Words and photos by Ms I-Hua and The Boy

ABOUT MS I-HUA AND THE BOY A collaborative blog between the Boy and Ms I-Hua on

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their eating and travelling adventures in Melbourne.

WWW.MSIHUA.COM FACEBOOK: The-Chronicles-of-Ms-I-Hua | TWITTER: msihua

It must be the change in the weather. Vitamin D does wonders for

Since The Boy was making decisions, as it was his impromptu plan,

people’s moods and feelings.

he decided for us to go with the five course tasting menu at $80 per person. If you are interested in not having any alcoholic drinks, Mister

Take The Boy for example, ever since the sun has been out longer, he has

Jennings offers unlimited still or sparkling water for $4.00 per person.

been more spontaneous on impromptu dates with me. In winter, it was all about staying at home and being couch potatoes (which also has its

APPETIZER: DAGWOOD DOG

merits).

As our appetizer to get us started with the tasting menu, we were presented with every Aussie fun-fair, footy game, food truck, food snack.

For me, the sun being out means I have become more productive. Waking up is easier and we get more done during the day. Maximising

Obviously, as this is a fine dining establishment, nothing is ever quite

the sunlight we call it.

what it seems when served up on the plate. This Dagwood Dog is Flaherty’s cheeky take on the traditional Boudin Blanc with a casual

One such afternoon The Boy came to pick me up and announced, “We

twist.

are heading to Mister Jennings!”. COURSE 1: CRAB, SALMOREJO, CHILLI, BLACK PEPPER I was confused at first as he caught me by surprise. Racking my head,

As the first course was brought to our table. I couldn’t help but

I wondered to myself who Mister Jennings was. Was he a media

exclaimed at the vibrant colour of the dish.

personality? A chef? A hitman?! As I brought the first spoon to my lips, it was a light and delicate sensory Clearly I have an overactive imagination before he could explain further,

experience. I accidentally said out loud to The Boy, “Why can’t your

I asked The Boy, “Are we in trouble? Who is Mister Jennings? It wasn’t

gazpacho taste as good as this?” Bam-pow, minus ten points to me, wife

me!”. The Boy gave me an incredulous look that read “you know nothing,

of the year.

Jon Snow”. COURSE 2: FROZEN KANGAROO, WASABI, NASHI It wasn’t until he pulled up on busy Bridge Road in Richmond that I

The next course to be served has been marked as the signature dish of

realised Mister Jennings was a restaurant *phew*!

Mister Jennings. It doesn’t take long for you to wonder why. The colours, texture and ingredients on this dish is a salute to

Chef Ryan Flaherty (ex-Estelle) has branched out to do his own thang.

inventiveness and culinary skill.

Upon walking into Mister Jennings, I was immediately wanting to know who their interior designer is! We loved the minimalist Swedish look of

How did this dish come about? Malcolm regaled us with how Chef

the furniture with key blue feature items on display.

Flaherty wondered why chefs would wait for the meat to thaw once they had shaped it in the freezer, before searing it and serving hot to guests.

It was pretty quiet as we walked in. That in itself was a surprise as Mister Jennings has been making waves in newspaper features and magazine

A lightbulb moment of, “hey, why don’t we just shave it as is and serve it

shout-outs recently. Maybe we found a lull in the time, as we’ve since

frozen”, brought this dish into being.

discovered that it can get pretty busy during dinner time. Thin slices of frozen kangaroo starts to defrost in the mouth, changing its Whatever the reason, we were very glad and thankful that we managed

texture and flavour profile as you chew. It’s a dish that slowly reveals its

to snag a table before it became even more popular and bookings

flavour.

impossible to make.

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15


APPETIZER: DAGWOOD DOG

COURSE 1: CRAB, SALMOREJO, CHILLI, BLACK PEPPER

COURSE 2: FROZEN KANGAROO, WASABI, NASHI

COURSE 3: OCEAN TROUT, BARLEY, CAPERS

COURSE 4: PORK, LIME PICKLE, KALE

COURSE 5: CHOCOLATE, CARDAMOM, CRUNCH

PETIT FOURS: MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH YOYO BISCUITS


We loved the interplay of textures, temperature, the playfulness of the

by chanting, “chocolate, chocolate, chocolate” much to the bemused

idea and vibrancy of the colours.

expression of Malcolm. It helped that by this time, we were the only couple dining in the restaurant, so I didn’t attract any attention from any

COURSE 3: OCEAN TROUT, BARLEY, CAPERS

others in the vicinity.

The next course was my favourite. Introduced to us as Chef Flaherty’s

Could you have berated me though? Should this dish have been brought

ode to risotto, it was anything but.

forth to be placed in front of you, would your heart not have skipped a beat too? Would you not have returned to days of childhood gone by?

The textural component of the pearl barley was a stunning introduction

Chocolate in all its elements. Biscuits, powder, ganache, soil, and mousse.

to the rich flavours imparted by the ocean trout. Thin slices of broccoli

A perfect ending to a most refreshing meal.

stems gave the dish a crunchy component. As petit fours go, we quite enjoyed the melt-in-your-mouth yoyo biscuits How would we describe it? It is a risotto but not a risotto. Just close your

which came with the bill.

eyes and let your other senses bring you joy. We loved the vibrancy and genius play with perceptions of food served COURSE 4: PORK, LIME PICKLE, KALE

at Mister Jennings. Sure, there were hints of Estelle here, but given where

When the next dish was brought out to us, I turned my head to an angle

Flaherty has been in recent times, that’s not a bad thing.

and then my whole body sideways in an effort to glimpse under the

He’s taken his experiences with Scott Pickett’s group and turned it on

striking green of the kale shroud on the plates.

another couple of notches. Bars have been raised. If there was a form to fill, we would mark it under ‘Exceed Expectations’.

Once the photographing was over and I was allowed by The Boy to uncover the layer of kale on my plate, a thick cut of pork jowl and baby

MISTER JENNINGS

carrots was revealed. Sitting atop a nettle purée, the light flavours and

CUISINE: European, Modern Australian, Wine Bar

punchy lime pickle certainly helped cut through the fattiness of the jowl.

ADDRESS: 142 Bridge Road, Richmond

Give me more!

HOURS: Tue – Thurs 5pm – 11pm / Fri – Sat 12pm – 11pm / Sun 12pm – 6pm

COURSE 5: CHOCOLATE, CARDAMOM, CRUNCH

WEB: www.misterjennings.com.au

For dessert, like a child, I clapped my hands and stated the obvious

FACEBOOK: MisterJenningsRichmond

the dispensary enoteca upcoming events

protagonists of hospitality & drink culture

9 Chancery Lane Bendigo 3550 Victoria 03 5444 5885 E info@thedispensaryenoteca.com w www.thedispensaryenoteca.com T

Hidden away down Bendigo’s hippest laneway is a small, stylish and inviting bar and restaurant. Famed for the finest drinks list in Central Victoria - featuring over 200 boutique wines, 100 Champagnes, 100 craft beers, 100 single malt whiskies, 50 gins, 50 cocktails & much more! Normal Hours TUESDAY - SATURDAY / 11:30am until late Extended Hours Some Sundays/Mondays - Public Holidays ST EAVES

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Sunday 12th October #3 DC Tribute Concert Chris Russell plays live! Renowned Melbourne blues guitar legend comes to Bendigo to play two cracking, rockin’ sets whilst you enjoy a seasonally inspired 3 course lunch and whatever tipples tickle your fancy. The dirtiest most swamp garage version of the blues you’ll ever hear. TIME: 12pm COST: $70pp 25 seats only.

Sunday 19th October Bindi Winegrowers Annual Bendigo Event Arguably Victoria’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producer will feature their latest releases and rare museum wines over a 4 course degustation lunch featuring 9 wines. Hosted by the affable Michael Dhillon. TIME: 12pm COST: $195pp 25 seats only.

Sunday 16th November #4 DC Tribute Concert Henry Wagons plays live! Guitar slingin’ rock ‘n’ roll hero comes to Bendigo to play this intimate gig! Consumate showman, guitar hero, all-round top bloke and a voice of liquid velvet - what more could you want!! Includes a 3-course lunch. TIME: 12pm COST: $70pp 25 seats only.


MEEHAN VINEYARD Our Vineyard, Cellar Door and Winery are situated on the McIvor Highway within the town boundary, just 1km north of the Caltex Roadhouse. The Meehan family welcomes visitors for tastings and sales or even just a “chin wag” about vines, wines and all things winey. The Meehan Heathcote Shiraz is picked at lower sugar levels, with the reasoning that up to 24 months in tight grain oak allows the higher tartaric acid to reduce by naturally forming sediment. This Heathcote wine is complex in nature and is best served after breathing for several hours. All our wines are made on site in the traditional method of small batch fermentation and gentle basked pressing. Cellar door hours: 11am - 5pm weekends and public holidays (during the week, please phone to make sure we are home) Heathcote Wine and Food Festival Marquee 54 Contact Details 4536 McIvor Hwy, Heathcote Ph: 0407 058 432 Website: www.meehanvineyard.com

SHE OAK HILL The family of pioneering Heathcote wine grower, Gordon Leckie senior, continue to produce outstanding wine from their boutique vineyard on She-Oak Hill in the exciting Heathcote Wine Region. Recognised for its spice and dark fruit characteristics She-Oak Hill wines represent the best of traditional Heathcote Wines. She-Oak Hill produces highly acclaimed Shiraz, Chardonnay and Rosé wine and invites you to taste our new releases, current vintages and some older favorites at the 2014 Heathcote Wine and Food Festival at Marquee 48. Contact Details Shuran’s Lane, Heathcote, Victoria Ph: 03 9882 3715 Website: www.sheoakhill.com.au Twitter: @sheoakhill Facebook: sheoakhill

SANGUINE ESTATE

A marquee not to be missed, having been awarded a red 5 star winery rating from James Halliday, the Hunter family of Sanguine Estate will be providing tastings of their award winning wines over the festival weekend including the 2013 Progeny Shiraz that was awarded the best wine in the $20 to $25 category at Winestate’s 2014 World’s Greatest Syrah and Shiraz Challenge. Also on display will be the prestigious Heathcote Grand Terroir Trophy that Sanguine won (for the second year in a row) at the recent Heathcote Wine Show – a sight to behold! With an amazing offer on a gold medal winning Shiraz due to an export label error; Plumm Glassware gifts including free decanters plus some wines in extremely limited supply, several of the current vintages will sell out on this festival weekend so make sure you get in early. Heathcote Wine and Food Festival Marquee 7 If you can’t make it to the festival, the Sanguine Estate cellar door is open every weekend from 10am to 5pm (although it will be closed over the festival weekend).

Contact Details 77 Shurans Lane, Heathcote Ph: 03 54 33 3111 Website: www.sanguinewines.com.au

For more information on Heathcote Wine and Food Festival visit www.heathcotewinegrowers.com.au


Heathcote comes alive again this October to celebrate the annual Heathcote Wine and Food Festival. Showcasing over 40 of Heathcote’s best wine producers and some of Australia’s best Shiraz (among other varieties), Shiraz Heaven is all in one place, over one great weekend. Sample delicious regional food and produce and improve your knowledge and

enjoyment of wine with tasting seminars and masterclasses. Enjoy live music and children’s entertainment too; all in a relaxed family friendly environment. Buses to and from the festival are available from Melbourne and Bendigo. www.heathcotewinegrowers.com.au for more information.

YOUR GUIDE TO THE HEATHCOTE WINE REGION

Michel’s commitment to creating exquisite hand made biscuits and crackers results in quality products bursting with natural flavour. Our team bakes in a small commercial kitchen in Castlemaine, using the best ingredients (many sourced locally) such as real butter, free range eggs, Belgian Couverture Chocolate, Australian nuts, fresh fruits and organic sourdough for our crackers. You can taste the quality.

Heathcote Wine & Food Festival

@WinesHeathcote #Heathcotewinefest14

03 5472 4274 michelsfinebiscuits.com.au


TICKETS ONLINE PRE-EVENT PURCHASE Saturday – Standard $35, Premium (inc tasting seminar) $55 Platinum (inc masterclass) $100. Sunday – Standard $30, Premium $45, Platinum $100. Weekend – Standard $60, Premium $80 Non-drinker $10. Children under 18 $10. Children under 12 free

GATE PURCHASE Saturday – Standward $40, Premium $55, Platinum $110. Sunday – Standard $35, Premium $50, Platinum $110. Weekend - Standard $70, Premium $80 Tasting seminars $10 Non-drinker $10. Children under 18 $10. Children under 12 free

For more information on Heathcote Wine and Food Festival visit www.heathcotewinegrowers.com.au


NO: 31 13 24 41 33 35 30 3 6 32 29 39 25 42 14 27 30 52 2 15 17 22 10 23 12 46 54 38 36

WINERIES Armstead Estate Barfold Estate Barnadown Run Buckshot Vineyard Bull Run Estate Burke & Wills Winery Coliban Valley Wines Condie Estate Cornella Ridge Estate Domaine Asmara Domaines Tatiarra Downing Estate Ellis Wines Flynns Wines Galli Estate Greenstone Vineyard Hanging Rock Winery Heathcote Estate Heathcote II Heathcote Winery Hennings Vineyard Idavue Estate In the Know Wines Kennedy Vintners M. Chapoutier Australia McIvor Estate Meehan Vineyard Merindoc & Shelmerdine Wines Mia Valley Estate

NO: 43 47 26 37 45 11 7 48 20 16 9 19 49 53 1

18 28 40 40 72 56 44 55 34 33 8

NO: Milvine Estate 51 Mt Burrumboot Estate 68 Munari Wines 70 Noble Red 21 Peregrine Ridge 21 Red Edge 60 Sanguine Estate 59 She-Oak Hill 63 Silver Spoon Estate 67 St Michael’s Vineyard 58 Stefani Estate 73 Tar & Roses 26 Tellurian Wines 64 The Bridge 69 Vinea Marson 65 57 FOOD AND PRODUCE 5 Axedale Olives 66 Barfold Olivesw 61 Boonderoo Walnuts 68 Chapman Hill Olive Oil 71 Flavour Shack Flying Calamari Brothers Goldfields Farmhouse 4 Cheese Himalayan Sherpa Huon Aquaculture Jamie’s Fine Dressings Kyneton Olive Oil Mandi’s Kitchen Gourmet Puddings

Michel’s Fine Biscuits Monsieur Pierre Nazca Peruvian Food Olive Branch Preserves Pud for all Seasons Seven Hills Tallarook Simply Spanish Thai Takeaway The Forge Pizzeria The Meat Room Timboon Ice cream Turkish Pastry Twins Pantry Vietnamese Food House Warialda Belted Galloway Beef Wicked Coffee Carts Wildings Pantry Essentials Willow Room Wonga Stle Twisty Potatoes Bavarian Bangers Street Feast OTHER Bendigo Hat Shop


Stuff

WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

FOWLES WINE LAUNCH NEW WILD FOOD AND WINE POSTER To celebrate the season of brighter days and blossom Fowles Wine, the team behind Ladies who Shoot their Lunch wines, has released a brand new spring ‘seasonal’ poster featuring the delicious flavour combination of Riesling and wild trout. This Art Deco style poster is one of a series Fowles Wine will release throughout the year to coincide with spring, summer, autumn and winter. A breath of fresh air on any wall, this exclusive poster is strictly limited edition and only available when you purchase ANY six bottles of Ladies who Shoot their Lunch wine. Each poster is block mounted and measures 392mm × 580mm. For more information or to get hold of one visit: www.fowleswine.com

WINNERS ARE GRINNERS For the second year in a row, our traders jostled for your votes in the MYOB Melbourne Market Awards. After judging by an expert panel, four of South Melbourne Market’s favourite traders then went on to WIN Melbourne’s Best Trader award for their category across the four big Melbourne Markets. South Melbourne Market is home to the: Best General Merchandise and Ultimate Best Trader: The SuperCool Best Coffee: Padre Coffee Best Deli: Emerald Hill Deli Best Fruit and Veg: Georgie’s Harvest

Or drop the Fowles Wine team a line: (03) 5796 2150 or cellardoor@fowleswine.com

Congratulations to everyone and a special congratulations to Kate and Noonie (pictured) of The SuperCool who took out the top gong for the Ultimate Best Market Trader too.

www.southmelbournemarket.com.au

LIVE. MOBILE. REPORTING. EVEN IN THE MALDIVES…. Juggling business and life. Trying to balance it all. It’s hard to keep it all in check especially as an operator in the frantic hospitality industry. That’s why OrderMate has developed Control Centre. We understand that operators are wanting to keep their finger on the pulse whilst not wanting to spend 24/7 at their venue. Control Centre is a new mobile reporting app that tracks live data from the POS. Right in the palm of your hand - wherever you may be in the world. Take a snapshot of current sales and live vitals – giving operators the tools to make executive decisions on the fly. Hospitality Operators. Out of the Venue. No Longer out of the loop. Control Centre is available on all platforms, exclusively to OrderMate customers. For more information on Control Centre or OrderMate in general head to our website www.ordermate.com.au

22


GRAM SPECIAL FEATURE

MELBOURNE’S BEST

COCKTAILS THE SHAW DAVEY SLUM

Let The Slum’s carefully curated menu of cocktails take you back to a simpler time. With an ingredient list that seems like they’ve ransacked the lolly isle at the local shops, you’ll be instantly whisked back to a slightly boozier (e.g. better) version of your childhood. The Fairy Bread is perfect for an overly unambitious afternoon, with the slow-drinking tastes of apple and cinnamon, and a creamy white chocolate finish. The Jelly Doughnut is a clear choice if you’re looking to confuse your taste buds, as it tastes exactly like a jam doughnut when sipped through the rim! One of the more popular concoctions, the Sour Warhead, isn’t for the faint of heart- it truly lives up to its namesake. If you’re not a fan of getting out of your seat, cocktail jugs are available in three different flavours (including the classic Musk Sticks!) The extensive cocktail list ranges between $10-20, including jugs, making them perfect to enjoy on a sunny day underneath our retractable rooftop! ADDRESS: 171-175 Elgin Street, Carlton WEB: www.theshawdaveyslum.com.au HOURS: Mon - Sat 11am - 1am / Sun 11am - 11.30pm FACEBOOK: theshawdaveyslum | TWITTER: @shawdaveyslum

FATHER’S OFFICE If it’s one thing Father’s Office is known for besides their burgers, it’s got to be their cocktails! Nestled in amongst the classics you know and love are some signature drinks you won’t find anywhere else! Granny’s Blackberry Press, smacking of sweet fruit and citrus notes, is an instant favourite with some of the prettier customers. The Cupid’s Bow continues the fruity tradition, filled to the brim with raspberries, Soho, apple and house-made vanilla vodka. If you’re looking for a good time, their take on the classic Zombie can’t be missed-with a strict 2 per customer limit, you know you’re in for an interesting night! As it comes into the warmer months, you simply can’t go past an ice cream float. Combining two of our favourite summer ingredients (ice cream and booze, duh), these will see you through any number of warm, breezy afternoons spent on the balcony overlooking the State Library grounds! The cocktail list starts from $15 to $20, so there’s no excuse not to try a few (or all) of the wide selection! ADDRESS: 249 Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne WEB: www.fathersoffice.com.au HOURS: Mon - Thurs 11am - 1am / Fri - Sat 11am - 3am / Sun 11am - 12am FACEBOOK: fathersofficemelbourne | TWITTER: @fathersofficeqv

MS COLLINS Unwind in the heart of the CBD, with Melbourne’s newest socialite Ms Collins. Designed by Blackmilk Interiors with bespoke art by street artist, Juan Mcarb, Ms Collins is an eleven room Parisian inspired fusion of food, fashion, art and music. Ms Collins is open every Tuesday to Saturday with soulful and down tempo beats to unwind after work. Luxe food menu features international street food menu by four of Australia’s most celebrated chef’s including Jacques Reymond, Paul Wilson, Daniel Wilson and Riccardo Momesso. Cocktails by award-winning bar tender, David Debattista. Who has once again been nominated as bar best cocktail maker 2014 by The Urban List. ADDRESS: 425 Collins St WEB: www.mscollins.com.au HOURS: Tues - Wed 4pm - 11pm / Thurs - Fri 4pm - 3am FACEBOOK: MsCollinsMelb | TWITTER: @MsCollinsMelb INSTAGRAM: mscollinsmelb


24


AN INTERVIEW: STEFANO DE PIERI Words by Lauren Bruce. Photos by Georgia Haynes.

ABOUT LAUREN BRUCE Lauren is a communications crusader by day and passionate foodie by night, exploring Melbourne’s cuisine hotspots like a proverbial hotspot explorer. She blogs mainly on food but also fashion, travel and sometimes more food.

WWW.LAURENDARCYBRUCE.WORDPRESS.COM

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ABOUT GEORGIA HAYNES Georgia Haynes is a designer and a passionate photographer, bringing her design knowledge and skills to her images. She works in food, music and fashion photography and knows the visual impact of a great photo.

WWW.GEOSTUDIO.TUMBLR.COM INSTAGRAM: HAYNESANDBRUCE

As an inner Melbourne food enthusiast, it is often difficult to see beyond

Along with the restaurant, De Pieri pursued other projects such as

the brioche bun burgers and salted caramel cupcakes of our city-centric

recipe books, a television series based on celebrating the produce of the

lives and realise that in regional Victoria, there lies other food cultures that

Sunraysia region, contributing to food education, and playing major roles

come in many forms, both good and bad.

in food and culture festivals. Throughout all of these projects, it is clear de Pieri has always been conscious of celebrating and promoting Mildura’s

Mildura, the citrus capital of Australia, is a place that encompasses both.

fresh, local produce.

In the farthest reaches of inland regional Victoria, the regional city is often overlooked from a social and political point of view. Stefano de Pieri, a

“When I first came here, I saw this town had a lot of potential for food, but

Venetian-born cook with a passion for community, has always been

it wasn’t really reflected in anything that [Mildura] did at the time,” de Pieri

concerned with this.

says. “There was a disconnect between what was being offered and what could have been offered. I said, surely we can do a bit better than that. But

After dabbling in Victorian politics while based in Melbourne, de Pieri

there is a proliferation of fast food, and there is a nexus between fast food

and his wife Donata settled in Mildura in 1991, where he assisted in the

and socio-economic status.”

refurbishment of the Grand Hotel and also set up his restaurant, Stefano’s, in the hotel’s cellar. Under de Pieri, the restaurant became an icon of

De Pieri says he has met with some resistance from the locals in his

Victorian dining, drawing interest from all over the country and beyond.

endeavours to bring Mildura into the spotlight.

“I was honestly trying to tell the story about Mildura, to get down to the

“A lot of people interpreted it as some kind of arrogance, because I came

bowels of location,” de Pieri says. “I was striving for this, even though I was

to Mildura and said, ‘here’s the citrus capital of Australia, and you can’t find

just an improvised cook. I was cooking from the heart, like when I went to

a freshly squeezed orange juice anywhere.’ It’s only this year we had the

my mum’s place and got a good meal, after my mum had been making

first orange festival, the Zest Fest. And even then it was mostly done by

these dishes over and over again for many years.”

people not in the local food industry,” he says.

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

25


IF YOU CAN SUCCEED IN THE COUNTRY, YOU WILL SUCCEED ANYWHERE. BECAUSE IT POSES SO MANY LIMITATIONS AND CHALLENGES; IT’S SO SEASONAL.

indifferent, they were part of the community. Now most of them have gone. “It is evolving obviously; innovation’s happening in a localised way. But it’s as if there is no past. There were a lot of innovative people and great restaurants back in my days and before, in this country. Just read old editions of the Good Food Guide and there are hundreds of great restaurants every year…

“It is sad but it’s a cultural thing here where parents may not teach their

but is cheffing the only way to define food in a society? It’s about distribution,

children to cook, where sometimes there’s no pleasure in sitting around the

availability of produce, about relationships with butchers, with deli owners

table and talking and eating together. And to me, that is what food is all

and with cheese makers. I don’t feel that that has changed that much.”

about.” Despite his enduring presence in the industry, de Pieri’s passion for sharing As part of Australia’s food industry for more than two decades, de Pieri’s

good food and drink remains strong. After officially handing over the reigns to

opinion of the country’s food culture may come as a shock to the average

Stefano’s late last year, de Pieri has taken on both the brewery and restaurant

food blogger.

at Mildura Brewery, which is housed in the beautiful art deco architecture of a former cinema at Langtree Avenue.

With a long history of striving to make a dent on local mentality, you can understand why he might be a bit cynical.

“It was a crazy project from the start,” de Pieri says. “To establish a brewery in Mildura at a former cinema site was a great bit of lateral thinking, a way

“A lot of people think the Australian food industry has changed. I don’t think

of reviving the tradition of the cinema by restoring it; but from the point of

it has at all. There were always people interested in food, even 20 or 30 years

view of a business owner’s future serenity and life balance, well, it’s crazy. It’s

ago – always good restaurants. But it shouldn’t be about that, it should be

a challenging market for this kind of thing here.”

about what people eat at home; and aside from people watching Masterchef now, that hasn’t improved much,” de Pieri says.

Although he continues to lead on the food side of things at the brewery’s restaurant, it’s clear that his beers are de Pieri’s main interest. de Pieri says

“The only thing that’s changed is the presence of farmer’s markets. I think they

his ambition is to dispel the stereotypes associated with beer consumption.

are a good avenue for smaller farmers and for people to get fresh food from the source, but they’re there because we don’t have butchers shops and smaller

“The long-term plan for the Brewery is to continue to make good beer,

grocery shops anymore. There used to be smaller growers, small businesses;

and to keep the food fresh, simple and beer-friendly. But not burgers.

but it’s all being suffocated by Woolworths and Coles. When I came to Australia

I don’t have burgers at The Brewery anymore. I’ve abolished them.

there were bakeries, real ones. There were milk bars instead of 7-Elevens,

This notion that if you have a beer then you have to have a burger, it is insane.

there were butcher shops with sawdust on the ground and, good bad or

It diminishes the hard work of brewers who are scientists as well as craftsmen.

26


work of brewers who are scientists as well as craftsmen. Why can’t a beer be

I get texts from this great fish supplier in Collingwood all the time saying, ‘Oh, I

served with a most beautiful dish?

have these fresh anchovies.’ Oh yeah? By the time you transport them to me, how much are they gonna cost and what are they gonna look like when they

There’s nothing wrong with a beautifully made burger, but it’s like people

get here? They’ll be rotten little things.

who say Italian food is about pasta. Beer is about a lot more than that,” de Pieri says.

“You’re limited. For example, we’ve been using these big shoulders of lamb grown around here. They’re delicious, but the lamb is too big. So we’ve been

“I would put good beer in the same category as wine. A good craft beer is as

going down south to source the lamb, where the price of the lamb is through the

interesting as a glass of wine so I would put them on the same level. They’re

roof and the transport cost is unbearable. And by the time you trim it for cooking

both things that have to be done respectfully and beautifully. I’m not going

and then slow cook the meat, you lose about 70 per cent of the weight. So the

to serve a good bottle of chardonnay with chips and a burger, am I? So same

price goes through the roof. So now we’ve decided that we’ll take it off the menu

goes for really good beer.”

and source the local lamb, and instead of cooking it one way, we’ll do a Moroccan dish that is tasty and affordable for people, there won’t be miles attached to it

De Pieri says that, given the challenges of operating in a regional area, his

and it will be good with beer as well.”

longer-term ambitions for Mildura Brewery will require investment and patience.

Given that Stefano has so much to say about the obstacles Mildura presents to a restaurateur, it is almost surprising to hear that he wouldn’t want to be anywhere

“It takes time to build a team where you’re all on the same page. This is not

else.

the city; I can’t just pick up some good chefs and give them a brief and bingo, they make it happen,” he says. “In a place like Mildura, it has to happen more

“Someone once said to me if you can succeed in the country, you will succeed

organically; you have to train people, you have to refine your ideas about

anywhere. Because it poses so many limitations and challenges; it’s so seasonal.

what’s possible, and you have to source good local ingredients and keep it

You really have to sharpen your wits,” he says. “But there is no place like Mildura. I

simple,” he says.

wouldn’t live anywhere else. My experience and my reputation was formed here.

“If we were in Melbourne, you could get on the phone to suppliers and things

“And I like the connection between food and this landscape. It’s a very lovely, hot,

would arrive in the morning. Not here. If you want produce here, you have to

strange, daunting, scary landscape and it’s a great landscape. The appeal of this

make a choice. You have to say, what fish, when does it come, who do I get it

place is the mystery. It’s a crossroads, of climate change, industrialisation of our

from, do I have no fish or do I have Murray cod which costs an arm and a leg?

agricultural sector, globalisation… they’re all intersecting here. There are very few places in Australia where you can see the effect and the impacts of this stuff at one point. It’s here.”

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

27


THERE’S ALWAYS AN EXCUSE FOR CAKE. But one with chia seeds, banana and walnuts? Well gee, you could just eat it whole and call it a day. With great nutritional benefits, there’s nothing to feel guilty about when consuming this moist loaf.

Combined with the natural sweetness from bananas, the team of flavours work wonderfully together with crunchy chia seeds mixed through the batter for the ideal ‘banana bread’ substitution.

Chia, Banana and Walnut loaf is not only delicious, but also beautifully presented with banana cream smeared over the surface and walnuts to decorate. Whether you want to create a healthy treat for yourself or impress your friends at a dinner party, this loaf will be sure to excite your palate – enjoy!

28


RECIPE: CHIA, BANANA AND WALNUT LOAF WITH BANANA CREAM Recipe and phots by My Clean Treats.

ABOUT MY CLEAN TREATS My Clean Treats is a healthy dessert blog featuring simple, guilt-free recipes made with all natural ingredients and no refined sugars or plain flours. Jessica is a Melbourne food lover with a self-confessed sweet tooth

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(chocolate in particular) and loves creating clean alternatives to her favourite desserts.

WWW.MYCLEANTREATS.COM FACEBOOK: MYCLEANTREATS | INSTAGRAM: JESS_MYCLEANTREATS

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

• 2 cups wholemeal flour (or flour of choice)

• Preheat oven to 180°C and line a rectangular baking pan with

• 1 ¼ cup almond milk • 2 eggs • 3 teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon baking soda • 2 bananas mashed • ½ cup rice malt syrup • ½ cup Natvia Sweetener (or an extra ½ cup rice malt syrup) • ½ cup chia seeds • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste • ½ cup chopped walnuts

baking paper. • In a large bowl mix the flour with chia seeds, baking powder, baking soda, and Natvia. • Add almond milk and eggs to mixture in alternating batches mixing lightly. • Add mashed bananas, rice malt syrup and vanilla to mixture and combine well. Mix through walnuts very lightly. • Pour mixture into baking pan and place in oven for around 40 – 45 minutes and let cool while you prepare banana cream. • Place all banana cream ingredients except walnuts in blender

Banana cream decoration

until a creamy texture is formed and smear over the top of the

• ½ banana

cake.

• 4 tablespoons almond milk

• Decorate with walnuts, slice and enjoy!

• ½ cup cashews • Yellow food colouring (optional)

*Serves 20

• 1 tablespoon Natvia Sweetener or rice malt syrup • Walnuts

THE ULTIMATE ZEST MACHINE FOR THE MODERN BARPERSON AND COCKTAIL MIXOLOGIST

www.chefshat.com.au


WINE REVIEWS Words and photo by La Donna Del Vino.

ABOUT LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM TWITTER: @LADONNADELVINO | FACEBOOK: LA-DONNA-DEL-VINO

TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR

of wild strawberry and cranberry aromas backed by

Estate Pinot Noir 2012

a lick of vanilla and pebbles. It’s classically beautiful

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

from the get go. The palate shows great balance,

RRP $46

length and poise with almost a hint of sweet roasted vegetables flavour in the background.

Ten Minutes by Tractor have been around a good number of years now and by golly do they keep on

I don’t often drink Mornington Peninsula Pinot

performing. Based on an immaculate property on

Noir, only because there are so many other wines I

the Mornington Peninsula, it is little wonder how they

need to look at. I should probably change my tact,

are able to produce such lovely wines within such an

as this example shows how delicious they can be.

idyllic landscape.

On the finish, the tannins are on the very delicate side with not a hint of abrasiveness at all, meaning

The key vineyards for this Estate Pinot Noir include

you will find it is well-suited to drinking on its own

the Judd, McCutcheon and Wallis vineyards, which

or with lighter flavoured and textured cuisines.

were planted in the early 1990s in Main Ridge. Stockists: The Wine House, Southbank or King & Delve gently into your glass to find a Pinot Noir full

Godfree, Carlton

Insta foodies to follow curiouslyceleste

FatandFuriousBurger

onedishaway

Melbourne | food | travel | life

Let’s talk about bun, baby.

I like my coffees strong,

& pretty things

fatandfuriousburger.com

teas uncomfortably warm,

www.curiouslyceleste.

summer night’s long, wine

blogspot.com

glasses full and my food tasty + nourishing. www.onedishaway.com

30

butterbaking

ewenbell

marte_marie_forsberg

Natasha Pastry chef and

Travel. Photography. Words.

Norwegian photographer

baking blogger. Melbourne

Ideas. Life. Indulgence.

and home cook, living in

based. Tweeting @butter_

Visit me on www.

a 200 year old thatched

baking

ewenbell.com or www.

cottage in Dorset England.

www.butterbaking.com

photographyfortravellers.com

Blog: @the_foodforthought

#happyplaces

Twitter: @mmforsberg

www.ewenbell.com

www.mmforsberg.com

davehagerman

italyonmymind

the_change_room

S.E. Asia & Turkey based

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BEER REVIEWS Words and photo by On the Bandwagon.

ABOUT ON THE BANDWAGON Trev spends most weekends drinking craft beer, playing guitar really loud while drinking craft beer and eating as much amazing food as he can stomach – whilst drinking craft beer. He founded Bendigo Beer to legitimise his addiction and hang out with some awesome people.

SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT

Loves a chat.

TWITTER: @ONTHE_BANDWAGON | INSTAGRAM: ONTHE_BANDWAGON

Formerly known as Monster Mash, until an energy drink company decided

and determined it was best drunk from a Spiegelau IPA glass, (pictured).

the average consumer would get as confused as a chameleon in a bag of

I asked one half of Kaiju, Nat Reeves, what he loved so much about The

Skittles when they ordered a Monster Mash and didn’t have their heart ticking

Behemoth. “It is so full on, it’s hoppy, it’s malty and roasty but all in perfect

like a lab rat in less than 2 minutes, brother’s Cal and Nat Reeves have gone

balance whilst still being a sensory overload in a good way.” I agreed with Nat

from strength to strength producing some consistently high quality beers, as

to a point, except I found the sensory overload was bad, in that I just had to

well as a very approachable cider.

drink more!

When deciding to rename themselves, the guys stayed true to the monster

KAIJU BEHEMOTH DOUBLE INDIA

theme and went with Kaiju, which in Japanese literally means “strange

BLACK ALE STATS

creature”. Their beers certainly pack a punch for those with lower lupulin

ABV: 10.8%

thresholds, but what I love about them is that every beer in their range has its

Style: India Black Ale

own character, and The Behemoth is no different.

Serving Temp: 10 degrees Food Pairing: Sticky beef ribs or

So yes , it’s hoppy as hell. But it is well balanced against the roasty malt

gooey chocolate mousse

characters and the high ABV means there’s a very sublte ‘rum’n’raisin

Origin: Prahran, Victoria

thing’ going on while still allowing for a truly complete beer experience.

Price (RRP): 500ml $20

Originally brewed for this year’s Great Australian Beer SpecTAPular, the

Buy it here: Most good bottle shops around

Behemoth is a powerful, punchy, full bodied affair with an earthy, grassy

Melbourne, such as Slowbeer (Richmond),

hop presence. I tested a few bottles (because I’m thorough like that!)

Malt & Vine (Newport)


WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING? BENDIGO ON THE HOP Photography by Jim Marshall.

They said they were mad to organise a beer festival in regional Victoria in winter… but they were wrong. The sold out event saw over 2000 people hop their way around Bendigo and sample a huge variety of craft beers on August 16. With live music, great food, and plenty of beer, this event will no doubt become an annual fixture on the craft beer calendar.

DISH’D FOOD STORE LAUNCH Introducing a new way to discover food, dish’d Food Store launched on Tuesday September 2. With a star studded guest list sampling a selection of dish’d entrees, mains and desserts dish’d is brought together by legendary chef, Jacques Reymond.

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WHAT’S NEW?

WHAT’S ON?

> VAMOS

> ROUND BIRD CAN’T FLY

OPENING: October 31, 2014

OPENED: September 4, 2014

CUISINE: Mexican, Peruvian, Tapas

CUISINE: Coffee, Modern Australian

ADDRESS: 1st Floor 37 Little Bourke St

ADDRESS: 170 Main St, Lilydale

WEB: www.vamos.net.au

WEB: www.rbcf.com.au

FACEBOOK: vamosmelbourne

FACEBOOK: Round-Bird-Cant-Fly

> GRADI CICCHETTI BAR

> FIRESTATION CUCINA BAR

OPENED: September 17, 2014

OPENED: September 1, 2014

CUISINE: Italian, Bar, Restaurant

CUISINE: Italian, Wine Bar

ADDRESS: 99b Lygon St, Brunswick East

ADDRESS: 77 Upper Heidelberg Road, Ivanhoe

FACEBOOK: gradicicchettibar

WEB: www.firestationcucinabar.com.au

> 4 - 5 OCTOBER 2014 Heathcote Wine and Food Festival Heathcote Showgrounds, Heathcote VIC www.heathcotewinegrowers.com.au/festival > 20 SEPTEMBER – 5 OCTOBER Hoptoberfest Hophaus, Southbank Promenade, Southbank www.hophaus.com.au

FACEBOOK: firestationcucinabar

> THE STOREHOUSE OPENED: September 15, 2014

> LONA PINTXSO BAR

CUISINE: Coffee, Organic, Café Fare

OPENED: August 29, 2014

ADDRESS: 7a York Road, Mount Evelyn

CUISINE: Wine, tapas and cocktail fusion bar.

FACEBOOK: The-Storehouse-Mt-Evelyn

ADDRESS: 64 – 66 AclandStreet, St Kilda

> 4 – 5 OCTOBER 2014 Glenrowan Winemakers Weekend Wineries of the Glenrowan Wine Region Taminick Gap Road, Glenrowan www.visitwangaratta.com.au

WEB: www.lona.com.au

> PORRIDGE BAR

FACEBOOK: LonaPintxosBar

OPENED: September 13, 2014 CUISINE: Breakfast/Brunch

> PALEO DEN

ADDRESS: 163 Commercial Rd, South Yarra

OPENING: August 28, 2014

WEB: www.porridgebar.com.au

CUISINE: Café Fare, Paleo

FACEBOOK: porridgelove

ADDRESS: 321-323 Chapel St, Prahran FACEBOOK: PaleoDenMelbourne

> THE WOLF AND I WINDSOR (UPSTAIRS BAR)

> THE LUMBER YARD

OPENED: September 13, 2014

OPENED: August 27, 2014

CUISINE: Bar

CUISINE: Old British

ADDRESS: 152 Chapel Street, Prahran

ADDRESS: The Workers Club Fitzroy

WEB: www.thewolfandiwindsor.com.au

51 Brunswick St

FACEBOOK: TheWolfandI

WEB: www.lumberyardfitzroy.com

> THE BOOT FACTORY

> VIVO TAPAS AND WINE LOUNGE

OPENED: September 13, 2014

OPENING: August 23, 2014

CUISINE: Breakfast/Brunch, Coffee, Café Fare

CUISINE: Tapas

ADDRESS: 19 Pentridge Blvd, Coburg

ADDRESS: 674 Mount Alexander Rd, Moonee

FACEBOOK: thebootfactory

Ponds

> 10 OCTOBER 2014 Bendigo Wealth Heritage Uncorked Bendigo Town Hall, 189 - 193 Hargreaves Street, Bendigo www.bendigotourism.com > 10 – 12 OCTOBER 2014 Drinks Arts Food Torquay Torquay, Bell Street, Torquay www.daftorquay.com > 11 OCTOBER 2014 Beyond Heidi – An introduction to the cheeses of Switzerland Spring Street Grocer 157 Spring Street, Melbourne info@springstreetgrocer.com.au

FACEBOOK: vivotapasandwinelounge

> SARDI OPENED: September 10, 2014

> BOCA DEL SUR

CUISINE: Breakfast/Brunch, Coffee

OPENED: August 15, 2014

ADDRESS: 111 Church St, Hawthorn

CUISINE: Tapas Bar, Restaurant

FACEBOOK: SARDI

ADDRESS: 1 Melrose Street, Sandringham

> 11 – 12 OCTOBER Australian Cider Festival Ormond Hall at the Village www.cideraustralia.org.au

WEB: www.bocadelsur.com.au

> BURGLED

FACEBOOK: BocaDelSur

> 12 OCTOBER 2014

OPENED: September 8, 2014 CUISINE: Café Fare, Coffee, Brunch, Breakfast ADDRESS: 287 Huntingdale Rd, Oakleigh WEB: www.burgled.com.au

Wine and Cheese Fest Seaworks, 82 Nelson Place, Williamstown www.wineandcheesefest.com.au

FACEBOOK: BurgledBurgerBar

For more upcoming events, please VISIT GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

WINNERS! Congratulations to Sal Hosie and Isobella Wright! You’re the lucky winners of this month’s newsletter competition - keep an eye on your mailbox!

INSTALOVE Thanks to @dsimages for

Subscribe by heading to: grammagazine.com.au

sharing the insta-love right back!

WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

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