Great Golf
Magazine
THE LUXURY TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
in association with Brand USA
www.greatgolfmagazine.co.uk
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SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA
The Boulders - 7th tee, South Course
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Desert
. . . s m a e dr orld, w e h t ourses around c f l o g d n a s u o h t le There are more than thirty b a k r a em there’s the good, the bad and the ugly. Some of the most r and stunning you’ll find in Scottsdale Arizona. By Nils Bjornes, (text & photo) pictures also by Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, The Westin Kierland, Troon North and The Boulders
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SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA
TPC Scottsdale Stadium Course at Fairmont Scottsdale Priincess
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uch could be said about long-haul flights these days but ”comfortable” is not a word that comes to mind. That is to say if you’re not traveling first or business class. On this particular flight to Phoenix, Arizona, not only were we packed together like sardines in a tin and the fact that the air condition didn’t work properly didn’t exactly help. But the long uncomforta b l e j o u r n e y w a s quickly forgotten when I arrived at the hotel in Scottsdale where I was going to spend the next couple of days.
Great resort Fa i r m o n t S c o t t s d a l e Princess is a wonderful resort located on 450 acres in North Scottsdale, and despite being in the heart of the Sonoran desert, there are plenty of local shopping centers, restaurants and attractions just a golf shot away. But there is no need to leave the resort, the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess has everything. With 650 luxurious rooms and suites, restaurants, bars, five swimming pools, an award winning spa, and not least two excellent 18-hole golf courses, there are plenty of things to do, so boredom should not be a problem here. It’s already evening, but still around 35 degrees and surprisingly humid when I step out of the car. I’m greeted by helpful porters 16
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who take care of the luggage while a valet parks the car. Someone brings me an ice-cold bottle of water, and I’m quickly checked into the hotel. My room is large and luxurious, and comfortably cool after the heat outside
Culinary delight I was advised to try the food at Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak restaurant with its friendly, relaxed atmosphere, and found a place at the bar. Coming to America “the home of the hamburger” and sitting in a restaurant with an award winning chef - who has this as his specialty - the choice is easy. And what a burger I got. Served with a variety of French fries and dips, from spicy to mildly sweet, it made something we in Europe look upon as nothing but fast food into an exquisite culinary experience.
Immaculate The two golf courses at the Fairmont Princess are as immaculate as is the rest of this beautiful resort. The TPC Champion’s Course, formerly the Desert Course, was completely rebuilt in 2007 under the direction of golf course architect Randy Hackenkemper.
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Fairmont Scottsdale Priincess
The course meanders over natural ravines and picturesque foothills, with five par-3’s and a diverse array of par-4’s, ranging from the 480 yard 5th hole with a split fairway, to the 15th with a sharp dogleg to the left which if you should decide to be brave and go directly for the green, makes it about 310 yards from the back tee. We however, are going to the Stadium Course, Arizona’s only PGA Tour facility and venue for the Waste Management Phoenix Open, the largest attended golf event in the world with an estimated 500 000 spectators each year. This par-71 7.216 yard course was designed by Jay Morrish and Tom Weiskopf and even though it’s a challenging course, it’s enjoyable for all levels of golfers - professional and amateur alike.
Hole in one During the tournament the 16th hole becomes a Coliseum-like arena with fully enclosed stadium seating and the most
enthusiastic fans in the world of golf. They will scream and throw their cups in the air for great shots, and relentlessly heckle poor shots. It was here on the 16th that Tiger Woods made a hole in one during the Phoenix Open in 1997, and on the 17th Andrew Magee became the only person in the PGA Tour history to hit a hole in one on a par-4 hole. Another historic moment came in 1999 when Tiger Woods got 12 fans to help move aside a 400 pound boulder to make his shot. Since then the rule is that you can still move loose impediments obstructing your shot, but just with the help of your caddy. On most holes on this course the desert comes into play, especially on hole 13, a par-5 with a “desert island” at about 211 yards and water to the right, dividing the fairway in two. This is the longest hole on the course at 595 yards from the back tee. If you’re confident with your first shot you’ll want it somewhere between the water and the desert island in the middle. The green is protected by a huge bunker on the left and a smaller one on the 17
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SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA right, so lots of fun to look forward to on this one. But now it’s time for me to head back to the hotel because I have an appointment at the Spa.
Pain in the neck In recent years golfers of all levels have become more aware of the importance of physical training and stretching to avoid injuries, and among all the choices at The Willow Stream Spa you will find the special Golf Performance Treatment, which I am going to try. The Spa is inspired by and modeled after a hidden oasis deep in the Grand Canyon called Havasupai, and its design is drawn from nature’s essential elements – earth, air, fire, water and wood. The treatment lasts for 90 minutes and is a combination of massage, stretching and acupressure, aimed at improving balance and swing rotation for distance and accuracy. I hadn’t noticed how sore and tense my neck and shoulder muscles had become, probably due to the many hours spent in front of the computer, so the treatment felt wonderful. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to check out the waterfalls, where you can sit and let cascading water sooth away stresses and strain. I end the day with dinner and good company at La Hacienda where we are served tasty Mexican tapas, while the restaurant’s beautiful Tequila Goddess lets us sample some of the more than 240 varieties of tequila on offer. Needless to say I slept well that night.
Into the wild Before 6 am the next morning I’m already on my way north towards Flagstaff on Interstate 17 to take part in an excursion into
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the desert with Desert Wolf Tours. Rendezvous is at the Roadrunner Saloon, an authentic western bar that has been used in several Hollywood films. Desert Wolf Tours has a fleet of so-called Tomcars, originally developed for use by the Israeli Defence Forces Special Operations units, and still in use today in places like Afghanistan. These terrain vehicles are in a class of their own, and on this trip they certainly will have to prove their worth. If you’re over 18 you’ll do the driving yourself, and so as the sun slowly rises over the Sonoran desert we head out into the wilderness. This is definitely a trip to be remembered. Incredible bumpy, as we drive literally over sticks and stones, through a terrain hardly accessible on foot. Admittedly, we don’t see many animals, as most desert creatures are nocturnal, but we do see a flock of vultures sitting with their wings spread out as if to catch the first rays of the morning sun. Our guide, Brendon Buckles a native of Colorado, has an incredible amount of knowledge about everything that lives and grows in this wild and fascinating landscape. Not least about the protected Saguaro cactus that is so characteristic of this area and the only place in the world where it grows in the wild. These fascinating cacti can live to several hundred years of age. We also visit the ancient ruins of Native American settlements and the remains of sporadic mining for copper. If you don’t mind a bit of shake, rattle and roll – this trip is well worth taking.
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Kierland Golf Club at The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa
The Westin Kierland My next port of call is The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa located just a few miles from Fairmont in what is called the ”new” Scottsdale and like the latter, this is a resort of great dimensions. The Westin was not originally on my ”wish list” for this trip, but I’m so glad I got the chance to experience this fabulous resort. A slightly more conventional hotel building with its 10 floors, but when it comes to service and comfort this establishment definitely knows how to deliver. The one thing that makes Westin Kierland stand out is that it
is very family orientated, with a wide range of facilities and activities for both kids and adults, and the fact that they have a whole shopping district with bars and restaurants just around the corner adds to the experience. I enjoyed a very pleasant meal at a lively Chinese bistro called P.F. Chang’s. For the youngsters, Westin Kierland has a range of activities to choose between, from treasure hunt and ball games to ”lawn chess” and RC Car Race Tracks all to be found at the ”OK Coral”, and of course child-friendly swimming pools with slides and canals for paddle boating. 19
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SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA
Troon North - 18th at the Pinnacle Course se onument cour Troon North - M Troon North - Pinnacle Course
The Segway There are also the three 9-hole golf courses that can be combined in different ways to provide a varied and enjoyable round of golf. The courses; Acacia, Ironwood and Mesquite, named after indigenous plants that grow here, have well-groomed fairways, more than 300 bunkers and plenty of water hazards, and of course the ever present desert. Westin Kierland was also the first golf resort in the U.S. to offer golfers the option of using Segways to maneuver around the course. These two-wheeled devices use gyroscopes and microprocessors to keep balance, and they have been specially designed by Kierland Golf to carry golf bags and other equipment needed for the round. The Segways are more gentle on the fairways than the traditional golf buggies. Then there is the Scottish Golf Experience complete with authentic Scottish kilt rentals for those golfers who would like to try golf the ”Scottish way,” and to complete the picture there is a bagpiper who ”calls in” the golfers after a great game of golf.
cliffs and a multitude of shrubs and plants, and with giant Saguaro cacti as guards to remind us that we are intruders in this otherwise pristine desert landscape. It’s like a painting, dramatic, beautiful and filled with contrast. As a photographer, I had high hopes of finding a motive that could be a cover for our magazine here at Troon North, and my guide around the course Mike Friend, Director of Golf Events is doing his best to comply with my wishes. I am a little bit disappointed by the fact that large parts of the course are surrounded by huge private villas, although built in a style that fits into the terrain, it detracts somewhat from the feeling of being out in the desert. Many of the holes may seem a little intimidating for the novice golfer with a lot of desert between the tee and the fairway, but the desert is deceptive and the distances aren’t as daunting as first perceived.
Beautifully kept A jewel in the desert Troon North is truly a masterpiece of a golf course, and it is with anticipation that I take off from East Dynamite Boulevard far out in the desert and finally pull up in front of the clubhouse. Just the thought that anyone could imagine to build golf courses here in the wilderness seems to me almost incomprehensible. The two courses, Monument and Pinnacle, flows through the scorched landscape like emerald green rivers, surrounded by sandstone 20
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As you might expect, it is desert and bunkers that dominate among the hazards on these two courses, but there are also water hazards, as on hole 14, the Spanish Dagger and hole 18, St Andrews on the Monument Course, as well as on the 16th, Post Card on the Pinnacle. Both courses are varied and entertaining with plenty of challenges, but what strikes me most is how well maintained they are, even after a long hot summer. For me the terms manicured and well planned seems to be a perfect
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The Boulders
description, not just when it comes to fairways and greens, but also the way the natural environment comes into its own. When we get to hole 2 on the Pinnacle course, I finally get the image I was hoping for. Satisfied, I bid farewell to these two magnificent courses, who truly deserve to be ranked among the best courses in America, and head back to the hotel to pack up and go to my final destination.
The Boulders I thought I had used up most of the superlatives when describing
Troon North, but that was before I came to The Boulders. Driving through the gates of this Waldorf Astoria Resort, you have a feeling of being in a giant Hollywood movie set, and as the road winds itself towards The Lodge, I can actually understand guests who think they are surrounded by giant props. This is truly an amazing resort, a place that fills you with awe, and you can’t help thinking how anybody could have envisioned to build this remarkable resort in such an otherwise inhospitable place. I’m staying in my own luxurious casita (Spanish for ‘little house’) next to the 7th hole on the south course, where I can sit 21
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The Boulders
on the patio watching the sun set and the course get taken over by rabbits, coyotes and gamble quail - a little chicken-like bird that actually comes all the way up to where I’m sitting and enjoying a cold beer after a rather hot and hectic day.
Spotted Donkey The sunset is spectacular and I decide to walk along the fairways to El Pedregal, where there are lots of small boutiques, galleries and restaurants which are also part of The Boulders. I find a table on the terrace at the Spotted Donkey Cantina and enjoy a fabulous Mexican meal while darkness descends on the desert around us. Afterwards I take a refreshing dip in the pool behind The Lodge, which at this time is virtually empty. It feels heavenly after spending much of the day in almost 40 degree heat, to float on my back whilst looking up at a sky carpeted with more stars than I have ever seen, and with the 12-million year old granite boulders stacked as if placed by giants, discreetly illuminated as a backdrop. Did I say heavenly? I guess I did.
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Secluded fairways Tiger Woods might have had 12 fans helping him move the little boulder on the Stadium Course at the Fairmont, but he would certainly have needed a lot more help to move any of the boulders on these courses. Because here you’re talking tons – not pounds. Something that strikes me is how wonderfully incorporated the fairways are into the landscape, and how secluded they feel, without any disturbance from other players on nearby fairways. And as my casita is situated right next to the tee on the 7th hole on the South Course, I can not help but notice the relaxed tone of the passing golfers. It seems they’re laughing and enjoying themselves more than I have experienced on courses in Europe. And when it comes down to it, isn’t that exactly what golf is supposed to be; an enjoyable game in beautiful surroundings with good friends. What more can I say about these spectacular golf courses? Well, keep your eye on the ball, something that can prove hard in this distractingly beautiful landscape.
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Up – up and away My last day in Scottsdale begins at 5.45 am as I’m being picked up at The Boulders to go on a balloon flight over the desert. Not my favorite time to start the day, but this is an experience I would not want to miss. The launch site is on the other side of the valley where a total of 7 hot-air balloons will take off with passengers this morning. As the enormous balloon lifts from the ground, there are 13 of us in the basket. For a while, everyone is quiet and perhaps a bit tense as we gather height and move towards the first cliff top which seems to us to be looming dangerously close. Just the roar
from the burner breaks the silence. Then we are clear and as the sun rises and sets color to the desert below us, we float around at 5000 feet, with only the air currents and our eminent pilot to steer us for the next couple of hours. It’s a wonderfully peaceful way to fly. No wind can be felt, no engine noise heard, and the views are spellbinding. When we finally land, the ground crew who were following us via radio are already in place, and the journey ends as tradition requires - with champagne and breakfast. What better way to end the trip to this stunning part of Arizona and a desert I’ve come to love – I miss it already.
GOOD TO KNOW Only British Airways has nonstop flights to Phoenix Sky Harbor. www.britishairways.com I had a car from Enterprise Car Rental, renting a Sat Nav is recommended www.enterprise.com Resorts & Golf Clubs Fairmont Scottsdale Princess www.scottsdaleprincess.com The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa www.kierlandresort.com Troon North Golf Club www.troonnorthgolf.com The Boulders Resort www.theboulders.com Trips & Tours Desert Wolf Tours www.desertwolftours.com Hot Air Expeditions Inc. www.hotairexpeditions.com
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TEXAS - USA
Falconhead 17th hole
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Deep
in the Heart of Texas
It’s cowboys in big hats, it’s “Dallas” and J.R, it’s cattle and oil, politics and presidents. We’re of course talking about the Lone Star State. By Nils Bjornes. Photos also by Texas Tourism, Lakeway Resort and Hyatt Hill Country Resort
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TEXAS - USA
W
ould you believe that Texas is larger than France and twice as big as Germany? I certainly do after my recent road trip that took me some 430 miles from Austin to San Antonio, and from Corpus Christi to Houston. And I still only covered a fraction of this vast state. But hey, I got to visit some wonderful golf courses and resorts along the way – it’s all in a week’s work. But every road trip needs to start with the beginning. I flew from London to Austin by way of Newark, New Jersey. And, might I suggest that if you’re traveling to any part of the US other than the New York area, then you try to avoid a transfer at Newark airport, it’s not a pleasant experience. Going through customs with hundreds upon hundreds of people in line, it takes forever. In this case it made me think that this must have been how our European ancestors felt like when they arrived in the New World at Ellis Island outside New York. Add to this that Newark constantly seems to have long delays and you have many reasons to find alternative routes.
Caught in the rain I arrived in Austin around midnight and had just got into the rental car and started out from the airport when “the heavens opened” and I found myself caught in what was described the next day as one of the worst thunderstorms in the area for years. As the roads became increasingly flooded and visibility was reduced to practically zero, I was forced to stop under an overpass and it wasn’t until 3 o’clock in the morning that I finally arrived at the hotel.
Lakeway Resort Lakeway Resort and Spa is located on the shores of Lake Travis, a man-made lake on the Colorado River some thirty miles northwest of Austin. Being sixty miles long and four and a half miles wide at the widest point, Lake Travis is a popular place for all kinds of boating, water sports and fishing. e rain had stopped when I got up the next morning, but the view over the lake from my balcony was rather disappointing as the heavy rainstorm over night had done very little to remedy the months of drought which had resulted in extremely low water levels.
The Hills
Hills 9th hole
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After breakfast at Travis Restaurant I meet up with Jack Bickart, director of sales and marketing and Aaron Chilek, director of golf to take a tour of the golf courses. ere are a great number of golf clubs in Austin and Lakeway Resort offers guests access to some of the most exclusive private clubs. e Hills of Lakeway is home to two 18-hole championship courses; e Hills and Flintrock Falls. e 7,035 yards par 72 Hills signature course was the first golf course in Austin designed exclusively by Jack Nicklaus and has hosted the Champions’ Tour a number of times. In spite of the rainstorm the course looks in remarkably good condition, except that quite a few of the 45 bunkers now have turned into water hazards and the grounds crew are still working to clear fallen branches from the paths and around the fairways. e greens are undulated and sometimes ridged or tiered. It’s a course that provides an excellent challenge for all levels of players. e 7th hole - a 184 yard par-3, is simply breathtaking. A wide cascading waterfall fronts the raised green - creating a memorable scene - and a daunting tee shot. As the newer of the two, Flintrock Falls, designed by Jack Nicklaus and Jack Nicklaus II which opened in 2002, is noted as
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The Oasis at sunset
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having two of the most picturesque holes in the country, the spectacular par-3 and the par-5 fifth which has landscaped, cascading waterfalls. The course is well designed, with some 78 sand bunkers and eleven holes which have water in play in some shape or form.
Photo by Drew Kolb
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Falconhead Falconhead Golf Club was opened in 2003 and the course fifth laid out by the PGA Tour Design architects to meet the standards of the PGA Tour. At 7,302 yards from the back tees, this is a course that is fun and fair but challenging for all level of players where the sixth, ninth, eleventh and seventeenth holes might be the ones you’ll find most impressive. Particularly the the 17th, a 184 yard par-3, where the green is built out on a ledge over a flowing stream - pretty daunting. Falcon Head is a course you will remember both for the scenery and for the fact that it throws a bit of everything at you; the blind shots, the trees in the middle of the fairway, the dog legs, the wind and the water and the huge bunkers.
The Oasis I had dinner that evening at a place called Oasis with representatives from the Austin CVB (Convention and Visitors Bureau) and Texas Tourism, and what a place! Called the Sunset Capital of Texas, Oasis is a large shopping center built on a clifftop overlooking Lake Travis with bars and restaurants on several levels where you can sit outdoors on huge terraces and balconies overhanging the cliff. e views are breathtaking. We were seated at a window table in Soleil Bar & Grill where Chef David Burton Sanchez serves up a blend of many cuisines which signify some of the world’s greatest foods. Among a selection of starters for us to share was sauted local goat cheese and shrimp sliders - grilled shrimp patties with coriander horseradish slaw and pickles. For my entrée I chose Mojo Chicken, flat grilled served with seasoned black beans and avocado pico and accompanied by a surprisingly good local red wine from McPherson cellars. An excellent meal with good wine in pleasant company, the perfect way to end a long day.
Going south Early next morning I’m heading south to San Antonio and the Hyatt Hill Country Resort and Spa. is 500 room luxurious “ranch style” resort set on 300 wooded acres is home to three nine hole golf courses, each with a different layout and character that can be played in the combination of your choice. e courses have a wide-ranging terrain with rolling meadows, steep hillsides, wooded ravines and tree-shaded plateaus, as well as the deceptively tranquil treat of lakes and ponds. Several long par-4s, with an interesting mixture of par-3s and a number of distinctive par-5s, demand both strength and strategy from golfers of all levels.
Remember The Alamo Like many of my generation I grew up with Hollywood’s western movies, mostly about cowboys and Indians, but I can still vividly remember “e Alamo” with John Wayne as Davy Crocket where a small band of Texans held out for 13 days in a battle against the Mexican army of General Santa Anna. It was therefore with a great deal of expectation that I programmed my Sat-Nav and took off to finally see the famous place. I’m not sure what I expected, but to me it was a big disappointment. Yes, the reconstructed Mission building was there, and apparently on the same spot, but surrounded with high rise hotels and office buildings it felt totally misplaced. It might
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La Cantera, Resort Course 7th hole
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as well have been in Disney World. However, it’s still the most visited attraction in Texas.
Beware of the wind Just a short drive from Hyatt Resort lays the Westin La Cantera resort with its two golf courses, the Resort Course, designed by Jay Morrish and PGA Tour professional Tom Weiskopf, and the Palmer Course designed by the master himself, Arnold Palmer. Although this is the Texas Hill Country, it’s not exactly dizzying heights you experience, especially not for a Norwegian like myself, but at the eleventh hole on the Resort Course you stand on top of one of the highest points in all of San Antonio, and on the seventh hole, a 316 yard par-4 appropriately named “e Rattler,” you’ll have an eighty foot drop from the tee to the fairway and a magnificent view over San Antonio. But just be aware of the wind and try not to hit people on the roller coasters at the Six Flags amusement park nearby. Would be a perfect place for a picnic I thought to myself, at evening, after an early dinner at the hotel, I decided to enjoy some peace and quiet sitting on the patio outside my room with a glass of wine, accompanied by bird song.
On the road again On the morning of the fourth day I made an early start for my last port of call, Corpus Christi, on the gulf coast, some three to four hours drive to the South. is part of Texas is not particularly scenic, it’s flat, rather boring, but of course the roads are excellent and endlessly straight forward, and I managed to get to my meeting with the representative from the Corpus Christi CVB ahead of time. Her name was Colette Rye and she had kindly offered to be my guide for the day. Among the golf courses we visited during the next few hours were Padre Isles Country Club and North Shore Country Club. Padre Isles is a semi private club with an 18-hole, 6,623 yards par 72 golf course created in the early 1970s by Bruce Litrel.
Plenty of water Like most other seaside and link courses the course is flat, but still offers members and guests one of the most challenging rounds of golf in South Texas. With the ever present sea breezes and the dunes covered in deep natural grasses, some players have nicknamed Padre Isles Country Club "e St. Andrews" of Padre Island. Water is ever present with 15 of the 18 holes featuring the challenge of strategically placed lakes. Northshore Country Club is located in the area of Portland on the Northeastern side of Corpus Christi Bay. is links style course features 6,805 yards of golf from the longest tees for a par of 72, and many of the holes along the shore offers a spectacular view of the Bay and the City on the other side.
U.S.S. Lexington On the way back to the City you may want to take the opportunity of visiting the World War II aircraft carrier, U.S.S. Lexington, which is located on North Beach. Here you have a chance to climb behind the controls of a jet fighter, take a ride in the flight simulator, and of course enjoy the views from the flight deck. A city with a population of just over 300 000, Corpus Christi is according to my guide Colette, a quite close knit community with a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, and with plenty of good “eateries.” We enjoyed lunch at Harrison’s Landing, a cozy little restaurant on the waterfront, and in the evening we had dinner
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Newport Dunes Golf Club
at the very popular Doc’s Seafood & Steaks, where I had some heavenly crab cakes and mouthwatering bacon wrapped shrimps with new potatoes. e place can be highly recommended.
Luxury living Tired, but quite content after a rather hectic day, I was happy to finally get to my hotel, the Port Royal Condominiums on Upper Padre Island. “Hotel” might not be the right description because my “room” was in fact a two bedroom luxury apartment, fully equipped with wide screen TV’s, kitchen with all modern appliances and a huge balcony overlooking several swimming pools and Jacuzzis. On the kitchen bar there was even a welcome basket including a bottle of wine. What a joy! But before a glass of wine I decided to relax in the Jacuzzi and enjoy a swim in the pool.
Newport Dunes After breakfast on the balcony and a refreshing morning swim in the pool, I pack my camera equipment and head for the golf course which was the reason I wanted to include Corpus Christi in the trip. Situated not far from Port Royal, e Newport Dunes is a true links course designed by Arnold Palmer who has said; "Being here and seeing this course has aroused some enthusiasm in me I hadn't felt for a while. I can tell you that I've not enjoyed playing any golf course more than I did this one. is is a fantastic setting." And a fantastic setting it is. Measuring some 6,900 yards from the back tees, this par 71 golf course meanders through sweeping untamed native dunes and offers spectacular views of both the Gulf of Mexico and Corpus Christi Bay. It certainly reminds me of the coastal links in Scotland, and it challenges golfers with ocean breezes, rolling fairways lined with native grasses and imposing greens. But there is a downside to this. On a golf course that was recognised as America’s best new course in 2009 you would expect some pretty luxurious facilities to go with the rest, but the “Club House” is more like a “collection of porta-cabins,” and is a bit of a disappointment. When the golf course opened in 2008, the project was launched as “Newport Dunes Beach and Golf,” a luxury resort complete with condominiums and Italian style villas. en came the economic downturn and the project came to a halt. “e timing was bad and the developers ran into financial problems,” explains General Manager Kevin Michael. “However, things are looking up, now we have financial support from the 32
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bank who took over and we expect to have the course back in shape very soon. We also have high hopes there will be new owners in the very near future so we can get the project back on track.” Whatever happens you shouldn’t let it discourage you from playing this wonderful golf course. My guess is that someone out there very soon will see the potential in this project, and for me it was well worth the trip.
Homeward bound It’s Sunday morning and time to pack the car and head for Houston and the flight back to the UK. It’s been a busy and eventful week, and my head is filled with impressions. Somehow America always seem to have a certain allure that envelopes you and make you start missing it even before you’ve left. e positive “you can do it” attitude which is still there despite everything, the vast landscapes and flourishing cities – America is still the land of dreams and opportunities. e expression “everything is bigger and better in America” is also very fitting when it comes to golf, and Texas is no exception.
GOOD TO KNOW HOW TO GET THERE From London Heathrow, United Airlines offers daily services to Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco and Washington D.C. Fares from London Heathrow to Houston start from £666.06. Readers can book by calling 0845 8 444 777 or by visiting www.united.com Car hire in the USA from £19 per day, subject to availability and change. Visit www.avis.co.uk or call 08445810147 Where to stay & eat AUSTIN Lakeway Resort and Spa www.lakewayresortandspa.com The Oasis www.oasis-austin.com SAN ANTONIO Hyatt Hill Country Resort and Spa www.hillcountry.hyatt.com The Westin La Cantera www.westinlacantera.com/golf CORPUS CHRISTI Port Royal Condominiums www.port-royal.com Doc’s Seafood & Steak www.docsseafoodandsteaks.com VISIT U.S.S Lexington www.usslexington.com For further information on Texas visit www.traveltex.com
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LAS VEGAS
Swinging on the Strip might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the words “play” and “Las Vegas” in the same sentence. However, there are some quite stunning golf courses just a tee-shot away from the Strip, so grab your woods, irons and wedges and go clubbing with a difference on some of the most expensive and exclusive golf courses in America. By Peter Ellegard. Photos: Peter Ellegard, Las Vegas News Bureau, Wynn Resorts, Walters Golf and Heli USA
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LAS VEGAS
oney doesn’t just talk in Las Vegas – it positively shouts. America’s brashest city flaunts itself with the same bravado as its buxom, feather-bedecked showgirls, assaulting the senses with its bewildering array of glitzy resort hotels, its dazzling lights, its mind-boggling choice of top-drawer entertainment and restaurants, and its high-octane party atmosphere. Inside the luxury hotels, the vast lobbies are cathedrals of gambling, resonating to the cacophony of endlessly jangling slot machines and buzzing gaming tables that heave with the faithful, all praying to Lady Luck.
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Finding your way to the guest room lifts involves negotiating a labyrinth through the slots and tables, testing your own faith and resolve. Day or night, the disciples are still there paying their dues 24/7 and hoping their numbers will come up. SEX IN THE CITY. If ever there was a city on speed, Sin City is it – and I love it, probably because of rather than despite its excesses. Perhaps also because I come from Essex’s answer to Las Vegas: Southend. Las Vegas even celebrates its notoriety, which dates back to the days of the Mob and the Rat Pack of Frank Sinatra and co. The new Mob Museum tells the tale of organised crime in the city and
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across the US. Sex has always been a big part of its appeal, and remains so with raunchy shows and strip clubs among the alternatives to homely favourites like Celine Dion and Elton John. The city even sells itself with the brazen slogan “What happens here, stays here”. Its famous Strip (as the 4.2-mile section of Las Vegas Boulevard through the heart of the city is known) is the hub of the action, although you should also check out the Fremont Street Experience downtown with its illuminated roof displays. At night, the traffic crawls past the iconic buildings fronting the Strip while the pavements throng with people heading out on the town or watching the free roadside spectacles that include the
dancing fountains at Bellagio, the volcano eruptions at The Mirage and the pirate ship battles at Treasure Island. HIGH ROLLERS’ GOLF. Yet, tucked behind the Strip and unnoticed by the vast majority of the millions who flock to this latter-day Eldorado rising from the Nevada desert, are two verdant golf courses where you can swap the pizzazz for peace and quiet. The courses lie at either end of the Strip and their holes are framed by landmark casino hotels, some of which are outlandish pastiches of international monuments. Bali Hai Golf Club is at the southern end, right by the runways of McCarran International Airport, allowing a round before your flight back home.
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LAS VEGAS
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The Wynn Golf Course, near the northern extremity, is part of the refined Wynn Las Vegas resort hotel and across the Strip from the Fashion Show Mall’s designer labels. The course is restricted to guests staying at the Wynn and its elegant sister hotel, Encore. A round will set you back $500, although rental shoes and clubs are included. This is seriously high rollers’ golf. But considering that the Wynn Las Vegas cost a record $2.7 billion when it opened in 2005, and that the shiny Ferraris and Maseratis on show in the dealership inside the hotel cost up to $1.6 million each, you can understand why.
HEAT WAVE. The course, covering 142 acres of prime real estate, was designed by leading architect Tom Fazio, who also collaborated with owner, casino entrepreneur Steve Wynn, on the exclusive Shadow Creek course in North Las Vegas before he sold it along with his Mirage casino hotels to MGM Resorts. I was fortunate to play both the Wynn and Bali Hai while in Las Vegas for a trade show in late June. Even normally, the temperature at that time of year is searing. During my visit, a record heat wave pushed the thermometer to a scorching 113º F (45º C) as we teed off at lunchtime on the Wynn course. 57
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LAS VEGAS Besides the oven-like heat, what struck me was how green and luxuriant the landscaped course was: the tee boxes and fairways immaculate, greens as slick as glass and all edged by trees, flowering shrubs, lakes and meandering streams. The course also had some surprisingly dramatic elevation changes. SOARING BACKDROPS. A challenging Par 70 that tips 7,000
yards, every hole was a visual delight, whether playing with the curved bronze towers of the Wynn and Encore hotels, the Italianate Venetian hotel or the soaring Stratosphere Tower as backdrops. Memorable holes include the par-4 dogleg 3rd that skirts a stream, the pretty par-3 6th where you have to fire your tee shot over a lake to a green cupped by grass slopes, the par-3 15th hole, with water on three sides of the green, and the 18th, which has a stream flanking the left and a gushing waterfall beyond the green.
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Buggies are well stocked with drinks to help keep you hydrated and forecaddies are assigned to every group, to help give guidance on hole layouts and the tricky, sloping greens. TROPICAL ISLAND FEEL. Bali Hai, part of the Walters Golf chain, is open to all with green fees from $179-$349, depending on the season and when you play. I had actually played Bali Hai on a previous visit. Because the early morning tee times were busy, even in June, I had time to hit some balls on the range. Highly compact, it has netting above and at the end of the short practice area, but the best bit is that it is automated, with the range balls popping up on a tee from under the ground to a height you select. More open and less undulating than Wynn, the course is peppered with palm trees, water hazards, wide white-sand bunkers
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and waste areas that combine to give it a tropical island feel. Except that no tropical island course has a skyline like Bali Hai. The holes near the clubhouse are so close to some of the Strip hotels, it feels like you can reach them with a lob wedge. STRIP SKYLINE. I was staying at the closest one, Mandalay Bay, and as I looked back from the first green, my temporary Vegas home (I moved to the ARIA casino resort in the huge CityCentre complex for the trade show) loomed large over the course, its golden façade glinting against the cloudless sky along with that of sister property THEhotel and between them the glass pyramid roof of the Luxor casino resort. Bali Hai’s open aspect gives sweeping panoramas from holes such as the par-3 6th, where you fire your tee shot over the edge of a lake to green next to a cascading stream with desert mountains
in the distance. The 8th and 18th holes give the best Strip skyline views as you tee off, while the view from behind the bunker separating the 2nd and 11th greens is also worth a Kodak moment. Although its wide fairways are forgiving, water challenges including the island-green par-3 16th by the clubhouse punish errant shots. After a while you don’t notice the aircraft flying overhead at regular intervals from the adjacent airport. Service is with a smile throughout, especially from the friendly beverage cart girls. Allow time to eat in the clubhouse, too. The bar snacks are a meal in themselves and there is fine dining in the Balinese themed Cili restaurant. OTHER COURSES. Beyond the Strip is more excellent golf. In the Summerlin community to the north, TPC Las Vegas is a challenging desert course with lots of exposed rocks and cacti and scenic views
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LAS VEGAS fire live-round machine guns, take to the skies for a duel in combat aircraft, drive a high-speed NASCAR racing car or dive with sharks at Mandalay Bay’s Shark Reef Aquarium. Helicopter tours are a great way to see Las Vegas, especially lit up at night, as well as the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon and Hoover Dam. I got grandstand views of them all on an overnight package with Heli USA, landing close to the canyon rim for a stay in a rustic cabin at its Grand Canyon Ranch after firing pistols at zombie targets on a gun range (I blasted their faces with my Sig Sauer), a horse ride to a desert overlook to watch the setting sun and see the ranch’s resident bison, dinner and a cowboy singalong under the stars round a roaring camp fire. Rent a car or take a tour to explore scenic areas including Red Rock Canyon, Valley of Fire State Park and Lake Mead. NIGHTLIFE. Vegas really comes alive at night. Once you have sated
yourself at one of the many celebrity chef-owned eateries, catch a show. Besides the star performers, you can see lavish productions including eight permanent Cirque du Soleil shows, among them the water-based O at Bellagio, the Beatles’ LOVE at The Mirage, and the new Michael Jackson ONE, which I saw a preview of before it opened at Mandalay Bay. Afterwards, sip cocktails at an ultra-lounge, the chic late-night clubs that are now de rigueur in Vegas. My favourites include Encore’s Surrender, where guests spill out into the adjoining openair Encore Beach Club in a poolside setting with cosy cabanas, pole dancers and a DJ in a glass booth, the multi-floor Marquee club at the Cosmopolitan, and the long-established PURE at Caesars Palace, where the rooftop terrace gives superb views over the Strip. With the clubs staying open until 5.30am, you might as well stay up for breakfast before teeing off. GGM of Red Rock Canyon that I played on my last visit. Nearby are the Arnold Palmer-designed Arroyo Golf Club at Red Rock course and Bear’s Best Las Vegas, with 18 holes hand picked by Jack Nicklaus from his 270 designs worldwide. Desert resort Las Vegas Paiute, an hour north-east of Vegas on a tribal reservation, has three 18-hole Pete Dye designs. Of Bali Hai’s two sister Vegas courses, Royal Links is the most notable; a links-style course, it features replica holes from 11 Open Championship courses, including the Road Hole, from the Old Course at St Andrews, and Royal Troon’s Postage Stamp. MINI-SKIRTED CADDIES. Casino hotel giant Caesars owns two Vegas courses, both by Rees Jones. Cascata, laid out through desert canyons near Boulder, is one of the area’s best. Rio Secco, home to the Butch Harmon Golf School, offers golfers the option to book mini-skirted female forecaddies called T-Mates, for $200 excluding tip and green fee (from $99 to over $200). Shadow Creek is only available to guests staying at MGM’s hotels on the Strip, unless you’re a high roller or celebrity, and costs $500 a round – but that does include the limo ride there and back. DIVE WITH SHARKS. Vegas has an endless array of things to do when not golfing. By day, you can hit the pool. Mandalay Beach has 2,700 tons of real sand and a beachside casino, MGM Grand’s Wet Republic has eight pools with party cabanas and DJs rocking dance platforms in and out of the water, and Encore’s adult-only European Pool allows topless bathing and its private cabanas come with mini fridge, plasma TV and a sofa. Shop at stand-alone malls or in themed shopping areas at casino resorts. Adrenalin junkies can get their kicks on roller coasters (there is even one at the top of the Stratosphere Tower), 60
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GOOD TO KNOW
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CITY BREAK
Some like it hot...
Tired of the cold and the rain? Then pack your golf clubs and head off to The Sunshine State By Camilla Kaas-Stock, photos courtesy The Resorts
After what one can only describe as a disastrous British summer, you might feel the need for a bit of a pick-me-upper, and perhaps a city break with a spot of golf and some retail therapy is just what the doctor ordered. Add some sunshine,
fantastic beaches and a bit of glamour – and you have the recipe for the perfect getaway. I am of course talking about Miami. It’s not surprising that Florida and Miami are so popular with tourists and retirees; with its wonderful year round climate it is the perfect place to escape the winter blues. The summers tend to be very hot and humid with temperatures up in the 30’s, but through the winter months the weather is dry and pleasantly warm.
The Biltmore As the richest city in the US, Miami has plenty of glamorous hotels to offer and you can’t get much more up-market than The Biltmore Hotel. Built in 1926 and surrounded by 150 tropical acres, this National Historical Landmark is located in the Coral Gables area right in the heart of the city and just minutes away from the excitement of South Beach. The hotel, which in its heyday played host to everyone from President Roosevelt to Judy Garland and even Al Capone, is designed to emulate the finest in classic Mediterranean architecture. The Biltmore's centrepiece is its 93-foot copper-clad tower, modelled after the Giralda Tower in Seville, Spain. Here you will >
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find all that you would expect in a luxury hotel - sumptuous rooms, award-winning restaurants, spa, a 23,000 sq. ft pool and, last but not least, an 18-hole championship golf course where, if you’re lucky, you might rub shoulders with stars such as Robert Redford, Will Smith or perhaps Bill Clinton, who are frequent guests at the Biltmore. The course was originally designed by the legendary golf architect Donald Ross, but has since had a $5 million makeover and now hosts the annual Junior Orange Bowl International Golf Championship. It was here that golf legends such as Tiger Woods and Christie Kerr first proved their metal.
Plenty of restaurants When you have had your fill of golf and shopping pamper yourself in the 25,000 square-foot Spa and fitness centre or lounge by the 7,500 square-foot Laguna Pool. The resort also
Turnberry Isle Miami Situated within the lush surroundings of Aventura, an exclusive enclave in North Miami Beach, lays Turnberry Isle Miami. This award-winning Mediterranean-style resort is located just across the street from Aventura Mall with its 300 specialty shops: in other words a pretty good location for those who have money burning a hole in their pocket. With 408 guest rooms and suites the resort aims to provide the ultimate in luxury and comfort. French doors open onto private terraces with spectacular views of the gardens, pools and its two championship golf courses. The South Course and North Course, originally designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., have both undergone extensive renovations. They offer lush, tropical grounds accentuated with a variety of elevation changes, contoured fairways, doglegs, and strategically placed water features.
has plenty of excellent restaurants to choose from so there is no danger of starvation. And just a short shuttle ride away, guests can enjoy Turnberry Isle’s private Beach Club.
Ocean drive You can't come all the way to Miami without seeing the sights and soaking up the special atmosphere so where better to start than at South Beach – a favourite hangout for sun-seeking tourists and the rich and famous alike. Golden sands, turquoise water, hip sidewalk cafés, designer boutiques, bars and >
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CITY BREAK
dusk-till-dawn clubs – this is truly the place to see and be seen. And when you've had your fill of the beach, take a walk down Ocean Drive with its beautiful pastel coloured Art Deco buildings. There are more than 800 of these historically significant structures, most of which were built in the period between 1923 and 1943. As you stroll along you will notice the porthole windows, ship-like railings and sleek curves, all inspired by the big ocean liners that docked at the Port of Miami in the 30's.
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Here a camera is definitely a must, and at night the accent lighting makes the buildings even more impressive.
The Design District Miami is also a great place for some retail therapy; especially popular is the Design District where you’ll find luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Cartier as well as art galleries, antique shops and plenty of eateries. If you prefer shopping malls, a favourite American pastime, then no worries, Miami can deliver. As well as shopping you should not miss the opportunity to visit Little Havana for a taste of Cuba. And while there, why not pop in to Versailles, a landmark restaurant famous for their Cuban empanadas filled with spinach and cheese, fried yucca and ropa vieja, and finish off with a great Cuban cigar. There is so much to see and do in Miami, and so many wonderful golf courses to play, that you can’t possibly fit it all in in one single trip. So when the winter blues sets in, don’t despair, just pack your bags and take a Jumbo across the water. www.turnberryislemiami.com www.biltmorehotel.com GGM
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GREAT SPA - ARIZONA
As you stare out of your office window looking at another cold, dreary, grey winter day, your dreams of
Pamp
sun, fun, golf and spa seem far away. But all it takes is a hop across the pond to
sunny Arizona to make your dreams a reality. By: Dena Roché, photos courtesy the Resorts
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or the sou f g n i l r e
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M I R AVA L
ARIZONA
conjures up images of the Wild West; gunslingers, showdowns at High Noon and Native Americans. But this stereotype of America’s West belies the fact that in reality Arizona is home to some of the top spas and resorts in the States. If you’re planning a road trip and feel the need for some pampering, here’s a selection of the best of the best.
warm woods and clean-lined furnishings, is simple and sophisticated and helps guests relax and unwind. e facility features 23 treatment rooms, including six outdoor, a relaxation room that overlooks the stunning desert mountain landscape, saunas, steam rooms, hot tubs and a private outdoor patio off the women’s locker room.
Tucson
e spa, three-years in the making, is a collaboration between Miraval and Clarins, the top selling European skin care line. Working in tandem, over 40 exclusive new treatments were created including the Anti-Aging facial, Detoxifying Botanical Body Wrap and the Deep River Stone massage. One of the unique treatments I had a chance to experience was the Naga, a ai massage that incorporates silk scarves that hang from the ceiling. e silks are used by the therapist for entwining and gracefully suspending themselves as well as wrapping and supporting your body. My therapist Melanie, who trained extensively in ailand,
The Naga treatment Miraval is consistently ranked as a top destination spa in the world thanks to its innovative programming and genuine spirit, but it wasn’t until this May with the unveiling of the Life in Balance Spa with Clarins, that Miraval actually had a spa worthy of the resort. The new 16,000 square-foot spa embodies Miraval’s philosophy of life enhancing minimalism. “Balance is what this spa is all about,” said Miraval Chairman Philippe Bourguignon. “It is the opposite of affluence and opulence.” at said the spa is luxurious in an unpretentious way. e design, done in neutral beige and grey tones layered with texture, 102
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THE PHOENICIAN’S CENTRE FOR WELL BEING
was extremely knowledgeable about physiology and anatomy and explained to me why my left hamstring is tight and resistant to stretching, and what is causing some of my chronic aches and pains. It turns out it all stems from a structural issue with my left hip and a weak left glute that isn’t doing its fair share of the work. Armed with this new knowledge, I have a new goal at the gym (Operation Butt Build!).
Golf For the golfer Miraval tees up several experiences. Choose a private golf lesson with Glen Griffith, a PGA of America member since 1993 and learn his unique mind/body approach to the game. At the nearby Golf Club at Vistoso, a Tom Weiskopf designed course voted Tucson’s top public course, you’ll learn a new approach to the game emphasizing balance, awareness and connecting breath and focus with your target. Miraval also offers an on-course coaching session that applies this technique in match play. I had the opportunity to stay in one of the Catalina Suites, the suite’s décor was soothing and so peaceful. As I sat outside on
my private patio reading and writing my notes I realized it was the first time in a long time that I could hear myself think. ere is something magical about Miraval. I don’t know if it’s the positive energy that is so palpable you can feel it; if it’s the secluded site in the mountains or what, but I do know that I feel relaxed and recharged every time I come here. If you want to extend your stay in Tucson and check out other golf courses look no further than the Ritz Carlton Dove Mountain, featuring a Jack Nicklaus designed course, or the Loews Ventana Canyon Resort showcasing two Tom Fazio designed 18-hole courses.
Scottsdale Luxury If Arizona is known for spas, then Scottsdale is the pinnacle of pampering. e city boasts a concentration of four- and five-star spas that is hard to rival in the States, and the Phoenician’s Centre for Well Being is one of the top facilities in town. Not only does the five-star resort have a world-class spa, it will also keep the golfer in your group satisfied with a 27-hole course 103
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comprised of three unique nines that offer several 18-hole combinations. In addition to the courses, the resort features a fullservice driving range, chipping green and putting green. e Phoenician Golf Academy offers full-day classes suitable for beginners to scratch golfers. e 22,000 square-foot spa offers 24 treatment rooms, a fitness studio, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room. One of my favorite features is the Meditation Atrium, a calm oasis with leather chaise longues that I relax in while reading a magazine and listening to the trickling fountain in the sun-kissed room.
I opted to try two signature services starting with the Holistic Massage. is divine 80-minute treatment uses your choice of up to three different massage options to create the most personalised massage experience you could have. As someone who, despite frequent spa visits, has a neck and shoulders with knots the size of the desert boulders you will see around town, I left it up to my therapist Gene to pick the best techniques to use. To try and break up tight muscles he used a combination of neuromuscular and sports massage. At times it felt blissful, at times it was intense, but he got results.
Local desert plants
Popular with celebrities
e menu of services is broad, with many body treatments like the Desert Serenity Scrub and Prickly Pear Scrub, created from local desert plants and minerals like aloe vera, jojoba and chamomile. e spa also pays homage to Native American culture with the Well-Being Stone Ritual, a hot stone massage using the Native American custom of harnessing the power of warm basalt river stones and cool marble stones to soothe the body.
e Intraceutical Infusion Facial was by far one of the most unique I’ve ever experienced. e feature of the treatment is the use of hyperbaric oxygen coupled with an anti-oxidant, Hyaluronic Acid and peptide cocktail. Hyperbolic oxygen is used to treat wounds and for desert sun-kissed skin it can soothe in one treatment. After cleansing my face, my therapist Luanne uses a wand, similar to that for air-brushing, aiming the concentrated
The Phoenician Golf Academy offers full-day classes suitable for beginners to scratch golfers.
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ENCHANTMENT
oxygen on my face. It feels like a cool wind. When coupled with the anti-oxidants it’s like my face is being misted. e system is designed to drive the anti-oxidants deep into the skin. e results are a minimisation of fine lines and increased plumpness and brightness. It’s not surprising that the facial is a favourite of A-listers like Jennifer Lopez, Victoria Beckham and Naomi Campbell.
Boutique hotel Guests of the Phoenician can book rooms in the main hotel, or opt for e Canyon Suites, a boutique hotel within the resort. With 11 tennis courts, the Phoenician is one of the only places that serves up four different surfaces, including grass, where guests can channel their inner Andy Murray. Or simply relax by one of the nine pools on property and end your day dining in Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s J&G Steakhouse.
Serene Sedona A spa vacation is all about relaxing and looking inward and there
is no better place to do that than Sedona. Sedona is known for its vortexes-- convergences of spiritual energy that dot the red rock landscape. Luxury Enchantment Resort sits in the base of Boynton Canyon where several vortexes come together creating a magical escape like no other. e resort just finished a $25 million renovation with modern south-west designed casitas, and new restaurants and lounges like View 180 and Che-Ah-Chi offering views stunning enough to complement the cuisine. The resort has one of the most extensive activity programmes I’ve seen. In addition to ‘spa-ing’ or golfing at the resort’s affiliated Seven Canyons course, you can spend your day in a tennis clinic, a yoga class, learning how to create a vision board, trying Tai Chi, watching a spa cuisine cooking demo (and tasting the results!), exploring Native American culture through lectures or a medicine walk as well as hearing about the area’s vortexes. And this is just a smattering of what is available. 105
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L O E W S V E N TA N A C A N Y O N Wine, meditation and hiking e wine tasting I did was one of the most informative I’ve ever attended; focusing on what makes old and new world wines different and featuring wines that drove the point home. I also loved the evening chakra meditation in the spa’s Crystal Grotto. I have a very hard time meditating but in this setting it worked and I felt relaxed and at peace afterwards. No stay at Enchantment would be complete without a hike on the Boynton Canyon Trail, an easy path that puts you up close and personal with the unique landscape. With all the activities, it was hard to remember I came here to relax and explore Enchantment’s Mii Amo spa. Guests can choose to stay in the spa suites if they sign up for a three, four or seven days or stay at Enchantment and simply pick and choose services from a huge spa menu.
Native American traditions Like other spas in Arizona, there is a strong focus on incorporating Native American traditions and using locally sourced products. I tried the Anasazi Ubtan, which was created by Mii Amo and not available anywhere else. e Ayruvedic treatment began with a massage tailored to my Dosha using local products. It was followed by a herbal paste designed to detoxify and purify the skin. After a quick shower a lotion was applied to leave me hydrated, refreshed and smelling pretty. For my second treatment I decided to take advantage of Sedona’s energy and book the Reading of the Moment, where numerology, tarot and palm reading is used to help you understand the direction of your life. Having just gone through a traumatic experience I was anxious to see what insights I could gain, and was surprised how accurate the information about my past was. I can only hope that the future will be as rosy as my guide, Kamma, indicated.
Night time magic At night even more of Boynton Canyon’s magic is revealed as the 106
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sky is covered in a blanket of bright stars. Take a stroll around the resort, or relax in View 180 with a glass of wine and drink in the spectacular view. While the Old West can still be found in Arizona, it’s clear that the stereotype of the state is just that, a stereotype. is southwestern gem with its stark desert landscape soothes the soul with luxury spas, golf and dining that will make a trip to the Grand Canyon State something that will linger in your memory for a lifetime. GGM
GOOD TO KNOW Miraval Resort & Spa
Tucson, AZ 85739 5000 E. Via Estancia Miraval. www.miravalresorts.com The Golf Club at Vistoso 955 West Vistoso Highlands Drive. Oro Valley, AZ. 85755 www.vistosogolf.com
Ritz-Carlton, Dove Mountain 15000 North Secret Springs Drive. Marana, Arizona 85658 www.ritzcarlton.com
Loews Ventana Canyon 7000 North Resort Drive. Tucson, Arizona 85750 www.loewshotels.com
The Phoenician 6000 East Camelback Road. Scottsdale, Arizona 85251 www.thephoenician.com
Enchantment Resort 525 Boynton Canyon Road. Sedona, AZ 86336 www.enchantmentresort.com
The Club at Seven Canyons 755 Golf Club Way. Sedona, Arizona 86336 www.sevencanyons.com
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Wine_Layout 1 07.05.14 19:54 Side 2
GREAT WINE
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Grapes of joy Frank Sinatra crooned “I did it my way” and the same can be said for Kathleen Inman and Judy Jordan, two women vineyard owners in Sonoma who are taking the Californian wine scene by storm with their individual approaches to the grape. By Dena Roché, photos by J Winery and Inman
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hile both women grew up in California’s Wine Country, their pedigrees couldn’t be more different. Judy Jordan is the daughter of Tom Jordan, founder of the great Cabernet house, Jordan Winery, while Kathleen Inman’s family are fourth generation teetotalers. But each woman came to the world of wine driven by an uniquely personal passion. J winery was born out of Jordan’s love of sparkling wine, and Inman Family was created from a passion for growing things in a sustainable, organic manner. Women winemakers constitute only ten percent of winemakers in California and owner/winemakers only four percent. At Inman, Kathleen is both owner and winemaker, and at J winery the lead winemaker is another woman with a long career in the industry, Melissa Stackhouse. While women are underrepresented in the industry, they are disproportionately making highly rated wine. Of the California wines featured in Opus Vino, a book rating top wines, 23% are produced by female winemakers.
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Sixteen years passed before the lure of Californian wine beckoned them home in 1997, and in 2002 their first wine, a Pinot Gris, from their vineyard in the Russian River Valley was ready. The house is known for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.
PIONEERS. Even though women are making great wines, and
EACH YEAR DIFFERENT. Russian River wines, especially Pinot Noir, tend to be velvety and fruit-forward, whereas Inman’s wines are more acidic, lower in alcohol, balanced and food-friendly. “My wines reflect the place and year they were grown, rather than a certain profile or chemistry,” Inman says. “Every decision a winemaker makes in the process is reflected in the wine. It is utterly fascinating as each year is different. I make my wines very naturally. I don’t add anything or take anything away.” Inman’s wines are built on a foundation of organic fruit. She makes her own compost which is created in part from table scraps from some of the high-end restaurants she supplies wine to, and lets the must ferment with only natural yeast – without the aid of enzymes or inoculation. The winery itself is solar-powered, producing more energy than it consumes, and the new tasting room was built from post-consumer recycled materials.
their presence in the industry is growing, it hasn’t been easy to be a pioneer . “Often times, the older, more successful men in our industry were kind to me and supportive as they would be to their daughters; however, I found it challenging to be taken seriously,” says Jordan. For Inman, wine became a passion after taking a community wine course while she was a student at UC-Santa Barbara. Intrigued, she went home to Napa and worked at a winery during the summer. On her first day, a young Englishman came to the winery. Inman ended up marrying the bloke and put her dreams of vino on hold to live in England, where Simon was a lawyer and she began a career in finance.
NEW VENTURES. Now that Inman has solidified her reputation in the industry, she’s branching out her portfolio. “I’m focusing on things I enjoy making and things people enjoy drinking,” she says. One of those newer ventures is rosé. Her Endless Crush Rosé was created a decade ago to simply celebrate her 20th anniversary. “I forgot our anniversary and didn’t have a present or a card, so I decided to harvest on our anniversary and make this special wine,” she says with a laugh. This year the rosé sold out in a week after its release. What sets it apart is that Inman doesn’t make it as a byproduct of red wine.
GREAT GOLF MAGAZINE
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Instead she presses it like a white wine, giving it an intense flavor, high acidity and a pale color. Inman also produces a Brut Rosé sparkling wine. METHODE CHAMPENOISE. While Inman is getting her feet wet
with sparkling wine, Judy Jordan has focused on this since 1986 when as a 25-year-old Stanford grad, she struck out on her own with J Vineyards & Winery. The winery produces seven sparkling wines using Méthode Champenoise. Jordan had always loved Champagne and had a strong interest in geology. When she looked at Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and the diversity of its soils she knew the terroir would be perfect for growing the grapes used in sparkling wine production. “I’m a rockhead. I just get excited about the history of the Earth. In Burgundy and Bordeaux, their soils are wonderful, but they’re simple,” says Jordan. “It isn’t as much fun as California’s geology. Here, we have so much going on – the San Andreas fault, the glaciation of more recent history, and vulcanization because of the clashing plates. That makes winemaking more exciting, more fun.” NINE VINEYARDS. Today, J Winery makes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris in addition to sparkling varieties. J has nine estate owned vineyards comprising 200 acres. Like Inman, J is committed to sustainable farming, using cover crops to minimize chemicals, and harvesting at night by hand. Their vineyards are certified sustainable by the California Winegrowers Alliance. Jordan was the first to do gourmet food and wine tastings, and today J Winery offers one of the most luxurious tasting experiences in Sonoma. Visitors can do a full blown food and wine pairing in the Bubble Room, or enjoy a relaxed tasting with cheese during the legacy tasting held in an elegantly appointed upstairs lounge. “All of our wines are very expressive and balanced,” says
winemaker Stackhouse. “Judy’s sense of elegance is in the wines.” Stackhouse was the winemaker who created the winery La Crema’s signature Pinot Noir style during her decade there. J winery recruited her in 2010. “I am so proud of our distinguished winemaker, Melissa Stackhouse. I find her passion for wines, experience in winemaking and shared love of terroir to be amazing,” says Jordan. Today you can taste Mellissa's expertise with that grape in the J Vineyards Barrel 16 Pinot Noir, a wine with notes of cinnamon, baked mushroom and cocoa, underscored by bright cherry fruits, or the Sonoma Coast Pinot, bursting with fruit, black spice and chocolate. A sampling of sparkling wine will take you on a journey of cuvée and vintage bruts, a brut rosé and my favourite, a late disgorged vintage brut. MENTORSHIP PROGRAM. J Winery will be creating several new
sparkling wines, including XB, a relatively dry extra brut and a Blanc Noir from an estate vineyard. There will also be the first Pinot Noir from their Bowtie Vineyard and the company’s first Pinot Noir made from grapes from the Anderson Valley. Jordan believes in a lift as you climb philosophy and is active in mentoring future female (and male) winemakers through the company’s Junior Mentorship program for teens. “It is an opportunity for our employees’ kids and local students to experience many aspects of business, agriculture, cooking, marketing, sales and customer service,” explains Jordan. “I love the fact that these young people can join us for a period of time and try out different departments and expertise. What a gift for a young person to be able to learn about what he or she really likes to do and wants to pursue.” And maybe the next Judy Jordan or Kathleen Inman is just waiting to be discovered. GGM 127
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GREAT WINE 2011 Thorn Ridge Ranch Pinot Noir Tasting Notes Color: Garnet with translucent ring Aroma: Black cherry, dried and fresh herbs - particularly thyme and lavender. Redolent with exotic spices. Flavor: This is a luscious wine with ripe blackberry and cherry flavors. Secondary fruit components include black raspberries, Rich, round mid-palate with balanced tannins and the finish is velvety and long, with a beautiful earthiness.
2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay Tasting Notes Color: Pale Straw Aroma: Tart lemon, wet rocks and toasted hazelnuts Flavor: Rich texture with a crisp finish and plenty of tart acidity. Delicate secondary notes of toasted nuts, minerals and sea shells accompany juicy flavors of crisp apple, pear and lemon peel 128
GREAT GOLF MAGAZINE
2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Tasting Notes Color: Bright garnet Aroma: cherry, raspberry, black tea, sassafras and baking spices Flavor: Red fruit dominates the flavor profile. Mouthwatering perception of acid makes this a fabulous food wine. Layers of ripe cherry, dried cranberry, rhubarb and raspberry fruits combine with notes of cinnamon and earthy minerality.
2012 Rose of Pinot Noir “Endless Crush” Tasting Notes Color: Pale Salmon Pink Aroma: Honeysuckle, passionfruit, strawberry, guava, orange zest Flavor: Strawberry, watermelon, guava, ruby grapefruit, and mineral
2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Gris Tasting Notes Color: Pale Straw Aroma: Floral, lemongrass, peach, citrus, hints of nutmeg and cardamom Flavor: Well balanced, clean and refreshing. Typical of Pinot Gris, it is showing citrus, quince and nectarine on the palate. The wine finishes with a flinty mineral character and bright acidity tingles the taste buds.
2009 Brut Rosé Nature Sparkling Wine Tasting Notes Color: Pale Salmon Pink Aroma: Fresh citrus, strawberry, tart cherry and brioche Flavor: Strawberry, watermelon, grapefruit, mineral
2009 Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) Pinot Noir Tasting Notes Color: Bright garnet Aroma: Rose petal, cherry, raspberry, beeswax, ginger, clove and star anise Flavor: Red fruit dominates the flavor profile. Layers of sweet, ripe cherry, dried cranberry, rhubarb and raspberry fruits combine with clove and cinnamon spice.
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