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SMOKED MEAT 5
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www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2013
(562) 948-4408 5220 Van Norman Road Pico Rivera CA 90660 www.danielsmeat.com
FROM THE EDITOR
T E R I’S TAK E
CONTENT INSIDE 5 BOOKS
1 7 Where There is Pig, Party Will Follow Chef Erick Hulme serves whole animals.
1 8 It’s not just a Pig in a Poke
The Prophets of Smoked Meat - A
Da-Le Ranch raises animals the old
Journey Through Texas Barbecue Country.
W
Cover image credit Anne Watson Photography, www.annewatsonphoto.com
fashioned way and supplies quality meat.
1 9 Locando Del Lago’s Morso della Bestia
TRENDS 9 PAUL’S COFFEE SHOP ON TRIPLE D
Whole animal dinners are monthly sell outs at Locando Del Lago.
The coffee shop got a boost after
1 9 Wild Boar Hawaiian Style
appearing on Diner’s, Drive-Ins and Dives.
Hunting, catching and roasting a boar makes for fine eating with Chef Adams.
F E AT U R E 1 2 WAG TO WIG: NO PART LEFT BEHIND
2 0 Lindy and Grundy - Local Pastured and Organic Meats
The whole beast, from head to tail, is
This butcher duo supports small family
this issue’s star. Meet chefs who prepare
farms that raise quality meat.
2 0 Proceed to Pig Perfection
whole animals with an adherence to tradition, sustainability and best of all,
Flavor, smoke and fire are what it takes
a ferocious appetite.
Chef Schoenburg to roast whole animals.
1 3 Save the Meat, Savor the Plate Chef Coleman explains how sustainability saves money and reduces waste.
1 4 Whole Animal from Around the World
THE BIZ 2 2 BEVERAGES The Whole Hog . . . but which wine?
Guests at Clay Oven can enjoy goat, lamb, boar and alpaca.
1 5 Bluewater Avalon - Jimmy Ulcickas The menu at Bluewater includes swordfish harpooned right off the coast of Catalina.
1 5 Whole Animal - Back to Basics Chef Alan Greeley serves it up.
1 6 The Ubiquity Piggy Head to Pizzeria Ortica for Chef Justin Miller’s whole pig dinner specials.
MORE THAN CHEFS
e’ve seen and enjoyed a number of dinners featuring the whole animal, everything from wag to wig, a.k.a. Hoot to Toot. Creative chefs, several of whom you’ll meet in these pages, are using goat, lamb and pig parts that don’t often make the menu. Those willing to take a risk on ears, brains or tongue may find new culinary nirvana either behind the stove or at the table. Other countries have long made the best use of offal in stews, soups, pastas and other dishes. The food cost savings potential make the extra effort worthwhile. In addition, testing new recipes with unfamiliar product expands the restaurant’s repertoire. Read on and find more reasons to try your own hand at cooking cheek, tripe or heart. We salute those brave individuals who take the time to source quality meat and treat every part with the same respect. Many of you take great care to source product from purveyors who sell local, organic and sustainably raised meats. You’ll hear from a few you might not have met yet. Other regulars share a not-youreveryday brownie recipe, how to use fennel pollen and mustard spices, a reflection on mom and pop enterprises and our featured cheese and produce picks. Bon appétit!
Content
Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s
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D E PA RT M E N T S 4 SWEET SPOT 4 BAKING RACK 5 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 7 SPICE RACK 1 0 SUR LE MENU
GABRIEL CALIENDO
KATIE AVERILL
Corporate Executive Chef
Chef/Proprietor
Lazy Dog Restaurant
Eat Street
chair, these talented chefs share their
expertise with us as
our Culinary Advisors.
and Bar
JULY | AUGUST 2013 | great taste
3
INSIDE
SWEET SPOT
THE BAKING
RACK by Chef Katie Averill
BUILDING SAND CASTLES LOOKING FOR A QUIET PLACE TO WRITE ONE MORNING, I accidentally walked into a single unit, independent coffee shop during its first-ever half hour of business. I used to frequent the same location when it was one of a massive chain. Not knowing it was their first day, I found a little (a lot) more chaos than expected. “Why are you not wearing your hat?”
Brownies made with Valrhona Dulcey Blond
by Suzanna Hoang
“I need cups.” “Can we create a tip jar?” “Where is the music?” “We need to do 50% off today because we are clueless.” These were the comments I heard when I was ordering. The six employees behind the counter were tripping over each other in a space built for three.
ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING MANUFACTURERS
In a mixer with a paddle attachment, cream room
The one other person in the place turned out to
OF QUALITY-GRADE CHOCOLATES, French-based
temperature butter with sugar. Add eggs, vanilla and
be an 80ish, hunched over, jaded restaurateur
company
Blond
mix until combined. Sift dry ingredients and
who quipped to me out of nowhere: “This
Chocolate, a couverture (a chocolate with 32% to
combine with a few spins of the paddle. Be sure the
business is like building sand castles. One
39% cocoa butter) that distinguishes itself from
sides and bottom of the bowl are scraped for an
minute you have something beautiful and the
other white chocolates with a caramelized milk flavor
evenly combined batter. Stir in nuts, chocolate chips
next minute it all washes away like it was never
and hints of toasted shortbread. It’s delicately sweet
or a combination of whatever fits your heart's desire.
Valrhona
produces
Dulcey
and frankly, I’m eating the disks of creamy goodness as I type. I thought about how good the blond would be spread out as a ganache with sea salt over my
there. Yet I do it over and over again.” He then walked out the door. Little did he know he was
BLOND GANACHE
preaching to the choir, having opened five
(Adapted from the Bouchon Bakery Cookbook)
hospitality businesses myself.
1T
favorite brownie recipe. Try it if you have a chance!
Trimoline (an invert sugar)
I won’t soon forget this encounter with an old
- or honey as a substitute
man who suddenly symbolized the industry by
Use an 8” x 8” pan for the following recipe or double
1/4 C plus 2 T
Heavy cream
telling a complete stranger (his first customer)
it to fit a 9” x 13” pan.
3/8 t
Sea salt - heaping
something so hopeless and sad, yet profound.
8 oz
Valrhona Blond - melted
CHEWY BROWNIES
I barely had time to tell him that I, for one, would be coming back for the unique coffee
8 oz
Sugar
Combine invert sugar, cream, and salt in a small
and to support another small business. What I
5 oz
Butter
saucepan and heat over medium heat, stirring until
did not tell him is that I hope, in my own small
2
Eggs
the mixture comes to a boil. Stir cream into
way, I can contribute to his retirement lounging
1t
Vanilla
chocolate blond. Spread over cooled brownies.
on a beach somewhere thinking that in the end
2 1/2 oz
All purpose flour
Sprinkle with sea salt if desired.
1 1/2 oz
Dutch processed Valrhona cocoa
stayed to see the constant stream of customers
it was all worthwhile. I really wish he had
powder
that continued to enter the shop.
1/3 t
Baking powder
Katie@EatStreetCulinary.com
4 oz
Nuts or chocolate chips - optional
www.eatstreetculinary.com
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www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2013
INSIDE
SINCE 2000
Cheese Pick of the Month
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Tiffany Haslacker Suzanna Hoang Chris Kern Chantal Lozano Linda Mensinga
ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
LAURA CHENEL’S CABECOU
PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net
ADVERTISING
Laura Chenel's Cabecou, selected as an award-winning goat cheese by the American Cheese Society, is slightly aged for a distinct flavor that plays with your senses. Creamy, firm, and rindless with a nutty flavor and tangy notes of citrus, the product has an herbaceous scent. Goat cheese pioneer, Laura Chenel, sold her business to a family-owned firm renowned for its French cheeses. When two young French women arrived to run the company in Sonoma, they made exquisite alterations to the cheese.
Advertising Sales
Submerged and packaged in jars of olive oil, the Cabecou comes in compact, dense textured disks. It
714-960-0534
is tastiest when eaten on warm bread, added to green salads, or with slow-roasted Roma tomatoes. Serve it with bruschetta as an appetizer or snack. Enjoy with pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc. As long
21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net
BOOKS
as it is kept refrigerated in olive oil, the Cabecou will last at least a couple weeks. Laura's Chenel Cabecou can be found at Whole Foods Markets or from many on-line resources. For more information on Laura Chenel's Cabecou and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
BOOKS
ver wonder why Texas' biggest celebrity is its barbecue? In The Prophets of Smoked Meat: A Journey Through Texas Barbecue, you will find that barbecue is more than a famed presence in Texas; it is a practice, lifestyle, and perhaps even a religion. This must-have book will guide you through Texas and its barbecue ways. Author Daniel "BBQ Snob" Vaughn, blogger of Full Custom Gospel BBQ and a widely acclaimed expert in Texas barbecue, guides you through the different meats, rubs, and recipes. Accompanied by photographer Nicolas McWhirter, Vaughn pilgrimages across Texas to sample and demonstrate the traditions of the state's distinct barbecue styles. The team tastes and explains everything, including where to go, what to order, and who to ask for. Also, hear the tales of barbecue pitmasters from across the state. To purchase this book and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.
E
JULY | AUGUST 2013 | great taste
5
INSIDE
PRODUCE
PICK
OF THE MONTH
TREE RIPE PLUOTS THE PLUOT LOOKS LIKE A PLUM BUT TASTES LIKE AN APRICOT. Produced by California plant breeder Floyd Zaiger, the pluot a.k.a. plumcot, a more descriptive nomer is 70% plum and 30% apricot. Zaiger owns the commercial production of pluot trees and is responsible for branding his science experiment with this exotic name. Whichever label, it is the same tasty fruit. The hybrid fruit comes in a variety of cross-pollinations and can vary in color; black, crimson, green, plum, or yellow. It can also come in varying levels of sweet and tart. With a higher sugar content than plums or apricots alone, it is generally sweeter and less acidic. Although best eaten out of hand and at room temperature, the pluot makes a tasty jam or fresh fruit cobbler. Enjoy the relatively short season, from May to September. The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. www.theproducehunter.com.
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INSIDE
The Spice Rack by Chef Gabriel Caliendo
LO CAL SOCAL IS AN AMAZING MISH MASH OF ASSORTED
through a screen to separate most of the stems
well traveled path and used as a golden carpet to
CUISINES, CULTURES AND TRANSPLANTS.
from the plant leaving behind the highly sought
lead the missionaries along the Camino Real: a sort
Among the influences from elsewhere are treasures
after anthers and pollen for culinary use. The labor
of “Hansel and Gretel” breadcrumb thing going on
that hail from right under our nose. There are many
intensive process is the reason fennel pollen is very
there.
local items that hail from SoCal. Let’s explore two
expensive, sitting at the top with other culinary
of them: fennel pollen and mustard.
treats, such as saffron and vanilla bean.
FENNEL POLLEN
MUSTARD
Known as the spice of angels, fennel pollen has blown
One of my favorite seasons is spring, and as you
some zest and an amazing intensity of sparkling
its way into the fine dining scene across the world.
drive around in southern California vast carpets of
gold color.
Unfortunately, our California wild mustard does not produce usable seeds or leaves, and only the flowers are worth eating. The bright yellow flowers can be eaten raw and tossed into salad adding
The fennel plant, which has dark green leaves
yellow begin to blanket the local valleys, meadows,
Life is nothing without simple pleasures. Slow
and bright yellow flowers, grows wild all over
hills and mountains. It pops up all around, and is
down just a little, and take the time to eat, drink,
California. Fennel, related to dill, cilantro and
one of my all time favorite spring rituals. Showering
and share with friends or family. There are many
parsley, was planted here by Italian immigrants in
us with bright yellow floral beauty against dark
on-line resources where some local SoCal products
the 1800s, and is primarily featured in the Italian
green leafy foliage, mustard takes its turn on center
can be purchased. Support our local farmers and
cuisine of Tuscany.
stage in So Cal.
foragers whenever possible and give fennel pollen
Sugar Ranch Fennel Pollen, a company based in
California mustard is non-native and believed to
Visalia, California, hand picks its wild fennel at full
have been brought long ago by the Spanish during
bloom. The flowers are dried and then passed
the settling of the Missions. It was spread along a
and mustard a test drive. Chef Gabe Caliendo is the VP of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar.
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
JULY | AUGUST 2013 | great taste
7
INSIDE
THE
BEET
THE
BEET
usiness must be looking up and Fashion Island must have won the lottery with the all star list of restaurants slated to open at the upscale center by the end of 2013. From serving up comfort food cafeteria style to an olive oil aficionado’s dream, Fashion Island is now or soon to be home to Lark Creek, Lemonade, Red O, Cucina Enoteca and Fig & Olive. The cafeteria themed Lemonade takes one back to reminiscences of elementary school lunch lines with the addition of one important component – quality. Comfort foods crafted with seasonal ingredients and paired with fresh squeezed lemonade. The Red O opening at Fashion Island marks the second location helmed by Chef Rick Bayless. The menu pays homage to the varied regional cuisines of Mexico. Italian cuisine couples with an extensive wine offering at Cucina Enoteca. Guests can select their preference of dining privately or family style. Fig & Olive boasts a menu centered on olive oil, the integral ingredient of the region’s cuisine. Over 30 types of extra virgin olive oils will be available for purchase. Other establishments including Jimmy’s American Tavern, Selanne Steak Tavern, Provenance, Adya, Long Board, Blind Pig and The Winery are all still scheduled to hit the stage in Orange County this year. Stay up to date – visit www.greattaste.net for the latest news.
B
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www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2013
TRENDS
Semper Finer Diner
P
hil Martinez has enjoyed more than 15 minutes of fame. He gets another 12 minutes every time the Paul’s Coffee Shop segment runs on the Food Network show, Diner’s DriveIns and Dives. Paul’s Coffee Shop in Fountain Valley is owned and operated by Martinez, a former marine, and decorated with US Marine Corp insignia, his uniform and boots. Not surprisingly, a number of retired service people are regular guests. When the phone call from the show came, Martinez thought it was a prank. “They asked if I was interested and said they would call me back for a phone interview,” he says. “They quizzed me about recipes and other details.” Producing the show took three days. On
colorful expressions. The recipe for Martinez’s much tastier version riffs on a dish of creamed ground beef or chipped beef on toast and includes scrambled eggs, which Fieri dislikes. “They are perfectionists. We had to redo the cooking several times. Everything shows. They let me see with the camera and it’s different from looking with your eyes,” Martinez says. The Food Network star spent some quality time with Martinez. “He told me how to make the restaurant more successful.” Following Fieri’s advice, Paul’s now has a website and is soon to undergo a name change. Fieri also strongly recommended that Martinez plan carefully for the day after the show aired. Martinez reports, “It was incredible. He said, ‘I want to tell you what to expect and to be
Paul’s Coffee Shop on Diner’s DriveIns and Dives “I was nervous,” Martinez says. Fieri by Linda Mensinga
noticed and stopped the cameras to pull Martinez aside to chat. “He told me just to have fun.”
Cutline
the first two days, the crew came to set up lights and power and a private area for Fieri was cordoned off. When the Diner’s host first arrives he prefers not to be approached, the crew warned. “He seems a little stuck-up at first,” Martinez says. Filming lasted several hours—the kitchen shots alone took two hours. Fieri was at Paul’s Coffee Shop for 12 hours. “I was nervous,” Martinez says. Fieri noticed and stopped the cameras to pull Martinez aside to chat. “He told me just to have fun.” It helped and filming continued. “He tastes everything,” says Martinez of Fieri. A faux pas was narrowly avoided when the star was almost served their signature dish, SOS. The acronym is military lingo for “Stuff on a Shingle” among other more
prepared for hell.” Martinez credits the show for the 20% boost in income he’s experienced since the first 2010 broadcast. “We get new customers each time our show is repeated,” says Martinez. Paul’s Coffee Shop is open for breakfast and lunch. Besides the comfort favorite SOS, Hawaiian Loco Moco with Spam or meatloaf, chicken fried steak and chicken, burgers, sandwiches and salads are on the menu. Waffles, French toast, eggs and omelet variations are served for breakfast. An unusual side for a coffee shop is the flavorful cucumber kimchi. Martinez hopes to open another restaurant in the future. He’s planning something a little more upscale. Fans will just have to wait and see.
JULY | AUGUST 2013 | great taste
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SUR LE MENU
Nose to Tail
N
ose to Tail eating—a concept that has been around for centuries in the eastern world was catapulted into popular culture by the British chef Fergus Henderson in his book The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating. While some of us cringe at the thought of gizzards and brain, others relish the often discarded goodness that is offal. It can’t be that awful, can it? When it comes to offal, you either love it or hate it. For most Americans, the thought of consuming animal byproducts is unsettling and eating the lesser used parts of an animal is a dare that is often reserved for trips to foreign places and exotic restaurants. Accustomed to only the cuts of meat that are so ingrained in our culture by way of hamburgers, bacon and ribs, it is hard for some to conceive that often gourmet and irresistible meals can be crafted from these “nasty bits.” A real epicurean enthusiast would never say that something was offal until they tried it so pinch your nose and close your eyes if you have to Sur Le Menu.
Merry’s House of Chicken – West Covina Ampela Goreng: deep fried marinated chicken gizzards....................................3 Picca – Los Angeles Anticucho Corazon: beef heart, rocoto-walnut pesto ...............................8
10
The Gorbals – Los Angeles Confit Tongue: romesco, crouton ...........15 Bar Ama – Los Angeles Crispy Pig Tails: pickle and lime ...........11 Bäco Mercat – Los Angeles Crispy Rabbit Liver: watercress, jerk sauce, grape .................................................11
Palm Thai – Los Angeles Beef Liver Salad: cooked beef liver, green onion, rice powder, basil leaves, spicy lime juice ....................................................8
Hop Woo – Los Angeles Deep Fried Pig Intestine ......................10
Pizzeria Mozza – Newport Beach Bone Marrow Al Forno ........................12
Musso and Frank Grill – Los Angeles Grilled Lamb Kidneys ..........................20
Gish Bac – Los Angeles Chicharon En Salsa Verde O Roja: pork skin in spicy green or red sauce, black beans ...................................................9
Bestia – Los Angeles Pan-Roasted Chicken Gizzards: roasted beets, Belgian endive, aged capra sarda..................................................13
www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2013
Calf Brain Piccata (pictured here) by CHEF DAVID COLEMAN of MICHAEL'S ON NAPLES. View the recipe on Great-Taste.net
Little La Lune – Long Beach Pork Chitterlings on Rice: deep fried pork chitterlings, Khmer sweet and sour pickled salad....................................................7 Sublime Food Lounge – Culver City Roasted Bone Marrow: rosemary toast, lemon celery salad, roasted garlic .........11 Marche Moderne – Costa Mesa Sautéed Homemade Pigs Feet Sausage: Chinese long beans, jus de vinaigre, basil .13 The Golden Truffle – Newport Beach Southern Fried Jidori Chicken Liver Beignets ..............................................9 Animal – Los Angeles Veal Brains: vadouvan, apricot puree, carrot ................................................13
SUR LE MENU
“An Offal Lot” CHEF CRAIG BRADY, CHEF DE CUISINE, HAVEN GASTROPUB, ORANGE
PÂTÉ SPICE
4. Panade – mix all ingredients in a separate
2T
Cocoa powder
bowl with a whisk.
1t
Ground clove
5. Place pâté mix into mixer fitted with paddle
1T
Ground nutmeg
attachment, along with the panade.
1t
Ground allspice
6. Mix on medium speed until “tacky.”
1T
Black pepper
7. Do a “quenelle” test to check seasoning, and adjust as needed.
1. Place duck leg and fat, pork cheek, and veal
8. Season chicken hearts and pork liver for
cheek through large die on your meat grinder.
garnish separately, then add all garnishes to mix,
2. Mix 1/3 of this mix with the 4 oz of rabbit
and fold in to incorporate.
liver, 4 oz of pork liver, onion, garlic, and herbs.
9. Bake in a ceramic terrine mold fitted with lid
Run this mixture through your small
at 300 degrees F in convection oven, in a hot water bath until internal temperature reaches
die on the meat grinder.
150°F.
3. Add this mixture directly to the other 2/3 of
10. Refrigerate, and use weights to press
grind. Season liberally with salt & pepper, and
overnight.
add pâté spice.
1 1/2 lbs
Pork cheek
1 1/2 lbs
Veal cheek
4 oz
Rabbit liver
4 oz
Pork liver
1/2 C
Fines herbs (chervil, parsley, chives)
1T
Garlic - minced
1/4
Large onion - diced
3
Duck legs - deboned, reserve the fat
2
Pâté spice (recipe below) Salt & pepper to taste
PANADE 2
Eggs
1/2 C
Heavy cream
2T
All purpose flour
2T
Fine brandy
GARNISH 1C
Macerated cherries - dried
1C
Fat back - blanched & diced
1C
Pork liver - diced
8 oz
Chicken hearts - rinsed, soaked in milk overnight
JULY | AUGUST 2013 | great taste
11
F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
Wag to Wig: No Part Left Behind by Tiffany Haslacker & Linda Mensinga
VEGETARIANS, PROCEED WITH CAUTION. What you are about to read glorifies the very thing you have vowed to eradicate from your digestive system, grocery list and dreams. We’re talking about meat—herbivore sacrilege. Our mouths water for it and we have raised a nation on it. What would summer be if not for family barbeques, rib smothered mouths and the crisp, irresistible notes of bacon that waft through the windows of neighborhood kitchens? Whether we are bacon aficionados or rib revelers, most of us favor certain cuts above all others and, in some cases, the rest of the animal falls to the wayside. As the saying goes “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.” Or, in this case, “An animal’s discarded parts are a chef’s treasure.” We talked to restaurants that keep the act of cooking whole animal alive through traditional means of preparation, roasting feasts and good old fashioned hunting. We interviewed butcher mavens who leave little to no part of an animal to waste by using leftovers for making dog food and got some insight into the world of meat and seafood sustainability. Each chef featured pays homage to the animals that make Christmas delight, back yard barbeque face offs and culinary diversity possible, and they do so by finding means to utilize the animal to its maximum capacity. Let’s face it, food as we know it just wouldn’t be the same without meat. Chefs that live by this truth run their establishments by way of sustainability practices. They know what the meat they serve was fed as an animal, where it came from and how it was raised. They strive to meet standards that assure the meat they serve is not only USDA certified but humanely raised. One chef shows us the sea side of sustainability by talking us through the importance of Marine Stewardship Council certification. Some chefs can afford to be picky, to serve only the finest cuts in the most elegant fashion, but others are making the choice to push the bounds of creativity and serve animals in their entirety. Head to Tail dinners are showcased by a host of local restaurants. Among the ranks there is a large epicurean effort to change the face of what it means to eat a whole animal. If you have ever thought about braving the whole animal challenge, these chefs will give you pointers and cautionary tips on how to produce the perfect beast.
12
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
Save the Meat, Savor the Plate HAD IT NOT BEEN FOR HIS FRUSTRATION FOUR YEARS AGO, CHEF DAVID COLEMAN MIGHT NOT PAY THE SAME ATTENTION TO SUSTAINABILITY PRACTICES AS HE DOES TODAY. After a series of phone calls, Coleman found out that he was not alone amongst proprietors and farmers who were seeking outlets to both buy and sell meat that was raised with integrity. He sought this integrity in the form of sustainability practices such as appropriate feeding, raising and marketing. The first step in Coleman’s sustainability overhaul at Michael’s on Naples starts outside the walls of the restaurant and within his interaction with his supplier. Not only does establishing a good relationship with an honest supplier ensure that Coleman “knows his meat,” it also allows room for bargaining. When buying a 250 pound pig, one can pay on average between three and seven dollars a pound. “It depends on you and your salesman—the relationship you’ve developed. It’s a lot like playing cards,” says Coleman. The likes of whole duck, quail, lamb, pig, jidori, and rabbit are served seven days a week at Michael’s on Naples. Buying in bulk is a major force behind Coleman’s ability to keep whole animal on the weekly roster. Sustainability translates to three cardinal concepts in his opinion. “Sustainability is about doing what is right, ensuring that the way the animal is being raised, fed and marketed is viable and can continue. It’s about being accountable for the slaughter of the animal and doing your best to assure that the full yield of the animal’s life is being purposed properly; but accountability is not only to the animal but also to our customer. Lastly, buying whole animals and putting them in the hands of a skilled butcher and/or food manager can be financially beneficial to the restaurant in terms of food cost.” When Coleman says ‘whole animal,’ he means whole animal. His team butchers in-house, a process which can take one to three hours depending on the type of animal and its intended use. Coleman ensures optimum use of all of the animals served at Michael’s on Naples. For example, he braises less frequently used parts of the lamb like the shoulder and neck. He also breaks down lamb leg muscles to grill as steaks. “Using the whole animal allows for a good, flavorful bone stock which, in turn, always yields a great reduction sauce,” remarks Coleman. Coleman’s seven years experience with serving whole animal combined with his preoccupation over the last four years with viable practices has given him the tools to execute a successful method of sustainability. Coleman and his team are determined to top themselves and the successes of other establishments “This should be on the mind of every chef,” quips Coleman, “We’re intent on serving delectable meals in a sustainable way.”
PAN SEARED RABBIT LEG WITH LIVER AND ESCAROLE AND MILK BRAISED RABBIT AND MASCARPONE STUFFED BAKED RISOTTO CHEF DAVID COLEMAN RECIPE ON WWW.GREAT-TASTE.NET
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
BLACKENED SWORDFISH WITH PEACH AND RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT SALSA, ROASTED POTATOES AND GRILLED VEGETABLES CHEF BRIAN HIRSTY BLUEWATER GRILL
Eyeballs Anyone? Only if you are the guest of honor.
1 8 oz
Swordfish steak
4 oz
Roasted red potatoes (recipe follows)
2 1/2 oz
Peach & grapefruit salsa (recipe follows) Grilled vegetables Cajun spice Pan and grill oil Cilantro sprig for garnish
Coat swordfish with Cajun spice on both sides and FROM THE USE OF A TANDOOR TO PREPARING HER CUISINE BY WAY OF THE TRADITIONAL INDIAN
blacken in pan and grill oil. Plate with roasted
METHOD DUMPHUKHT (SLOW STEAM COOKING), CHEF GEETA BANSAL’S CULTURAL BACKGROUND
potatoes and grilled vegetables and top with salsa
PERMEATES HER PROFESSION. If the walls of Clay Oven in Irvine could speak, patrons would hear the chatter
and cilantro sprig.
of Bansal’s ancestors as they gilded their dishes of curries, chutneys and goat in beloved spices. “Everything I make is based on my Indian heritage and memories of flavors and tastes from India,” says Bansal. As Indian
PEACH AND RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT SALSA
cuisine is influenced by countless regional cuisines, Bansal’s heritage is the definition of eclecticism—her
10 lbs
Frozen peach sections - diced 1/2 inch
preparation of whole animal is proof of this.
2 lbs
Jicama - diced
1 1/2 lbs
Red onions - one inch sliced fine
Bansal’s first encounter with the cooking of whole animal was in Delhi, India, her homeland, when she was ten years old. While attending a ceremonial feast with her family, she watched as a whole goat was prepared on
3 bunches Cilantro - chopped
a spit. Although Bansal has not been able to escape the modern day preoccupation with technology entirely,
6
Jalapeños - finely chopped
noting that it can “make things easier over time and cut down on labor,” it is evident that the authentic
1 bottle
Seasoned rice vinegar
techniques that she was exposed to in her youth in India fortify her culinary aesthetic at Clay Oven.
1/2 C
Granulated white sugar
1 gal
Ruby red grapefruit sections
Bansal has been preparing whole animal for over fifteen years. She prepares lamb, goat, venison, wild boar, rabbit, pig, and alpaca but goat has a special place in her kitchen. This comes as no surprise considering the
Mix all ingredients except grapefruit until well
significance that goat has in Indian cuisine. Between sourcing, prepping and plating, it takes Bansal and her
mixed. Drain grapefruit and delicately mix in to
team four days to prepare a goat. On average, the actual cook time is roughly four to six hours. Goat at Clay oven
salsa being careful not to break sections.
is marinated, cooked in the in house tandoor, minced into kebabs, cooked in curry, and braised and fried. Bansal offers “the tandoor and its accoutrements, heavy duty braising pans and heavy duty steel skewers” as the
OVEN ROASTED NEW POTATOES
essential kitchen ware when cooking whole animal. Amongst the plethora of dishes Bansal prepares from whole
10 lbs
Red potatoes - B-size
animal are seekh kebabs, samosas, haleem (stew) and biryani (rice-based dish). Preference is given to a spicy
4 oz
Garlic - minced
profile of 10 to 12 aromatic spices and herbs. In homage to her heritage, she serves hearty curry and sweet and
1/2 C
Extra virgin olive oil
spicy chutneys as complements to her entrées. Chef incorporates as much of the goat as possible into her dishes—parts like the liver, kidneys, brain and shanks (used to make a gelatinous soup) steer clear of trashcans at Clay Oven. A typical meal includes 5 to 6 courses followed by dessert.
Kosher salt Coarse black pepper Boil potatoes al dente, about twenty minutes. Quarter potatoes and season with olive oil, salt,
Bansal gives credit to Kashmir, India locals for preparing the best whole animal she has ever had. “A whole
garlic and coarse pepper. Oven roast until golden
lamb was prepared for the Id feast [or Eid al-Fitr, a religious holiday that marks the end of the Ramadan] and
brown at 350 degrees. Finish in salamander with
the eyeball was offered to the guest of honor.”
grilled vegetables.
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
BLUEWATER AVALON SEEKS SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD ACHIEVING MARINE STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL (MSC) FULL CERTIFICATION WOULD MEAN THE EPITOME OF SUCCESS FOR CO FOUNDER/OWNER OF BLUEWATER GRILL AND BLUEWATER AVALON JIMMY ULCICKAS. Ulcickas endeavors to display the MSC Ecolabel badge of honor, denotes seafood that is certified by the MSC and is fully traceable on the Bluewater menu. In order to meet these standards, all seafood must be sourced from an MSC certified seafood supplier and the restaurant must show that it meets the MSC Chain of Custody standard (a check that every link in the supply chain is certified), and pending certification, the restaurant has to apply for a license to use the MSC Ecolabel. “We are 90% to our goal of full menu certification,” says Ulcickas. “The other 10% consists of popular shellfish and seafood items on our menu that are a challenge to find farmed or wild sourced that meet sustainability standards. We have a statement of sustainability on each of our menus, but until we reach full certification, we can’t display the MSC Ecolabel.” When it comes to sustainability, talking the talk isn’t enough. Patrons at Bluewater Avalon can enjoy fresh swordfish caught off the coast of Catalina by Bluewater’s very own fisherman. They are out to sea at least once a week and are most proud of their method of fishing. Ulcickas explains, “We harpoon the fish. This 100% sustainable method of fishing is the most humane since it eliminates all of the by-catch caused by nets or long lines.” During swordfish season you can try the fish served Cajun style with coconut rice and a tropical fruit salsa right off the grill. Since the 1996 opening of the first Bluewater Grill in Newport’s Cannery Village, Ulcickas has been committed to seafood sustainability. That commitment has only continued to grow and involves customers in an effort to educate the public. In 2011, Bluewater Grill hosted a sustainable seafood summit and also partnered with the Aquarium of the Pacific’s Seafood for the Future Program. In 2012, the restaurant hosted its first public sustainability dinner. “Our goal has been to educate our consumers about how important and easy it is to make responsible seafood decisions — both while dining out and at the supermarket. Ultimately, we want to foster a greater appreciation for fresh fish, which includes how to purchase it, order it at a restaurant and prepare it at home,” says Ulcickas. “I love the ocean, and I want my children and their children to be able to enjoy the same ocean I do.” A fisherman at heart, Ulcickas wishes to spread the importance of seafood sustainability far and wide and is doing so one swordfish at a time.
Whole Animal – Back to the Basics WHEN YOU HAVE BEEN COOKING FOR 40 PLUS YEARS, you reserve the right to have a lively attitude in the kitchen—your chops simply allow you the breathing room that most wide eyed chefs can’t afford in the midst of their race to success. Alan Greeley of The Golden Truffle takes on this ease when preparing whole animals. Greeley claims that his cultural background has little to no influence on his comfort with cooking whole animal. “Does Newport Beach count for something?” Greeley asks. He gets the whole animal of his choice from a “Gucci provider” or in laymen’s terms, a very fancy supplier. Despite efforts to expose this one of a kind chef’s secret, he supplied no name in particular. Chef Alan offers up the golden rule: when cooking a whole animal, cook time is dependent on size. Those who know their way around the kitchen will think this a given, but if we can learn anything from a chef who has been cooking for nearly a lifetime, it’s the importance of going back to the basics. “Often the biggest mistake is when people undercook the animal,” says Greeley. “You want it to be moist and tender.” He adds that the time between sourcing and plating can take from days to weeks, so plan ahead to optimize time and resources. He also advises that you equip yourself with a sawzall and large pans. He finds that any time of year is the best time of year to prepare your favorite whole animal. What matters most is the outcome you desire and the method you intend to use for achieving that outcome. Greeley has tried it all, from prepping and cooking an entire animal in house to preparing the varied parts of an animal separately then serving at a head to tail dinner. “It just depends on what I’m cooking,” he says. Head to tail dinners served on his watch are usually composed of 3 to seven courses and will most likely be prepared with a spicy or full flavored profile in mind. When choosing condiments and sides, he lets diners call the shots. “It really depends on the audience that’s eating it. Are they looking for cultural inspired sauces to accompany [their meal] or are they less brave?” Whether preparing a private dinner or sawing his was into a whole animal, it is a light hearted spirit and a reverence for the basics that guide Greeley through the chaos of the back of the house.
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
PORK RAGU CHEF JUSTIN MILLER PIZZERIA ORTICA 1
Pork shoulder
1
Rack of spare ribs (Roughly 7lbs meat combined)
2
Carrots - peeled and roughly chopped
3
Celery stalks - peeled and roughly chopped
1
Leek stalk - peeled and roughly chopped
1
Onion - peeled and roughly chopped
1C
White wine
8 qts
Chicken stock - rough measure
4
Black peppercorns
5
Coriander seeds
4 sprigs Thyme 1 sprig Rosemary 3 cloves Garlic - smashed 3C
Mirepoix - one cup each of celery, carrots and onion
Salt the pork shoulder and ribs over night. The next day, wash the salt off and pat the meat dry. Preheat
THE UBIQUITY PIGGY
the oven to 350 degrees. Sear the meat in a hot
TROTTERS, CRISPY PIG’S EARS AND HEAD CHEESE—NOTHING IS WASTED WHEN CHEF JUSTIN
on all sides, then remove. In the same pan over
MILLER PREPARES A WHOLE PIG DINNER FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS AT PIZZERIA ORTICA IN COSTA
medium high heat, add chopped carrot, celery,
MESA. He sources his plump Kunekunes at Old Reminisce Farms in Mira Loma. Kunekunes are small,
leek, onion and white wine to deglaze the pan. Let
docile pigs from New Zealand originally raised by New Zealand native Maoris, they roamed freely through
reduce for approximately 10 minutes. Add meat
pan over high heat until there’s a nice brown color
the villages. At the Old Reminisce farm they graze, instead of rooting, on grass.
back into the pot. Add enough chicken stock to
“They breed for high fat content and thicker meat. When I go, I’m looking for a plump pig,” says Chef
cover the ingredients in the pot (roughly 8 quarts).
Miller.
Add the peppercorns, coriander seed, thyme,
After choosing from the baby pigs at the farm, the chef waits six to nine months, then picks up his
rosemary and garlic. Cover and braise in the oven
choice up directly from the slaughterhouse. For preparation, “My Sous Chef Colleen and I take the better
for about 3 hours, until the meat pulls apart.
part of a day to butcher,” he says, “Putting everything together is a fun challenge for the kitchen staff.”
Remove from the oven then strain stock making
“I like to debone the whole animal, leave the head on, stuff it with vegetables and spices, and then
sure to discard the vegetables. Shred meat and
roast it whole. The outside turns really crispy and the inside stays nice and moist.” Miller uses fennel
reserve fat. Add fat to hot pan until sizzled down to
pollen as a seasoning because it pairs well with the sweetness of the meat. He also roasts the bones to
render fat. Add mirepoix and slowly sauté. Add
make a dark stock, “I like to use it with soup or, even better, risotto.”
shredded meat and stock back into the pot. Serve
Some recent menu items made from a whole Kunekune pig were served as a special offering on
atop of pappardelle or pasta of choice. Optional –
Father’s Day: house cured pancetta, fennel sausage stuffed trotters and local cherries, bibb lettuce salad
top with shaved pecorino cheese, fennel pollen and
with peaches, gorgonzola, red wine vinegar and crispy pig’s ear, pork ragu.
a dollop of ricotta.
Miller came by his whole animal proclivity as an impressionable teenager on Maui. “I was around 13 years old when we first moved to the island. I remember seeing a beat up truck driving on the highway with a wild boar strapped to the front bumper. I thought it was the coolest thing I’d ever seen,” he recalls. Digging a pit then burying the animal wrapped in tea and banana leaves led to delicious, tender meat. The chef also used to paddle a canoe for the Hawaiian Canoe Club. “They used to have an annual party with Kalua pork and turkey. It was the best! Eating huge portions of pork on the sand, what could be better?” he reflects. He shares a couple of hints. “A 70-pound animal will probably take a good four hours to cook, but it really depends on the size,” he warns, “Don’t burn the skin because it will get bitter.” “I like to dry out the skull in the oven the display it in the kitchen for a while. I usually say that it is a server that got out of hand!” says Chef Miller. From wag to wig, no part of the pig is wasted in his kitchen.
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
SALMON, HIMALAYAN RED RICE PILAF, ICICLE RADISH, BABY FRISEE
HIMALAYAN RICE 1/2
Medium yellow onion - finely diced
1
Medium carrot - finely diced
2
Celery ribs - finely diced
3
Thyme sprigs - finely diced
1 1/2 C Himalayan rice - dry 2 1/4 C Water or chicken stock Salt & Pepper 2
Radishes - sliced thin in disks
1
Torpedo onion - thinly sliced
2T
Flat leaf parsley - chiffonade
2
Meyer lemons - zest and juice
TENDER GREENS
2T
Olive oil
(Serves 2)
Sweat the vegetable mix and thyme in a two quart
EXECUTIVE CHEF ERIC HULME
pot. When the onion starts to become translucent, add uncooked rice and continue cooking on low. Gently cook the rice until soft. Add water or chicken stock, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer.
Where There is Pig, Party Will Follow
Cover with a lid. Once it’s fully cooked, spread contents onto tray and cool to room temperature. Remove the thyme sprigs. Place the rice into a mixing bowl. Add the radish, onion, parsley and half the Meyer lemon zest and juice. Combine thoroughly, add olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Let sit for 15 minutes and adjust seasoning.
THE NEXT TIME YOU’RE THINKING OF HAVING A PARTY, FOLLOW IN CHEF ERIC HULME’S FOOTSTEPS
Lemon, oil, salt and pepper, and all the other flavors
AND MAKE IT WHOLE ANIMAL THEMED. On the last Sunday of every month from May to October, Tender
will bloom on their own. Be sure to save a little
Greens hosts a Whole Animal Roast community event. Event goers can enjoy some of Hollywood’s best pig,
lemon for the frisee.
goat, lamb, boar, and game bird. Each roast is hosted by a chef from one of the various Tender Greens locations and features a different animal. The Whole Animal Roast allows the chefs to showcase their one-
SALMON
of-a-kind method for capitalizing on the unique flavors that each animal has to offer.
12 oz
Salmon Fillet - cut into two portions
Hulme has been preparing whole animals for decades. When asked which whole animal is his favorite to
2C
Himalayan red rice - recipe above
cook, Hulme ranked pig as his first choice, followed by lamb. At the Whole Animal Roast held recently,
1 bunch Baby frisee - cleaned and dried
Hulme used a La Caja China to prepare a pig supplied by Re-Ride Ranch. Caja chinas are roasting boxes
Olive Oil
that are amongst the most popular commercial methods used for roasting whole pig and can crank out the
Salt & Pepper
perfect pig in 3 to 5 hours. If you get your pig from the right supplier, your whole animal roast will start off on the right track. Hulme
Sear or grill the salmon. Grilling is recommended method. Lightly oil and season the salmon with salt
likes those supplied by Re-Ride Ranch. “They are all raised with love and fed a very good diet,” he says. To
and pepper. When doing so notice the salmon has an
ensure that he has the perfect pig for a roast, Hulme sources his months in advance. “Because I source
all red side and a side with some brown meat. You
early, the farmer brings me only the best,” remarks Hulme. He likes to “keep it clean and basic,” when
always want the majority of the cooking done on the
seasoning a pig and uses only olive oil, garlic, herbs and salt and pepper — letting the succulent flesh be
red side. This is called the presentation side, as it is
the talk of the party. Hulme’s extensive experience with preparing whole animal has taught him that
the side up that you will present to your guests.
seasoning can be one’s greatest asset or one’s greatest enemy. He warns, “Don’t over season; only season to
Place the salmon presentation side down on a hot
enhance, not overpower.” If endeavoring to cook your own pig, he suggests complementing it with smoked
grill. Let it cook until the edges start to turn a little
cherry gastrique.
pink. With a spatula, rotate the salmon a quarter
Upward of sixty people can feast on a seventy-five pound pig at one of Tender Greens’ roasts. “It’s always
turn. Let it cook until the highest and thickest part
amusing when people go for things like eyeballs and brains,” says Hulme. The cooked pig is a fan favorite
of the salmon is the only raw part. Gently flip the
among guests who eagerly snap pictures of the animal before it is served. Guests can even bid on the offal,
salmon and cook for 45 seconds more. Remove from
bones and parts such as the tongue, brain and eyes—portions that not every group of roast goers are
the grill.
enthused about.
Split the pilaf in half onto two plates. Place the
So what happens when you have sixty or more guests that are eager to tear open the caja china and you
salmon on top, presentation side up. In a small mixing
find that the pig somehow turned out less than perfect? In Hulme’s case you won’t find a second pig roasting
bowl add a teaspoon of olive oil and half a teaspoon
in the woodwork. “In my career as a chef, I have always gone by the motto of ‘I will get it done.’ I will get
of Meyer lemon juice with the frisee and a pinch of
that animal cooked deliciously one way or another!”
salt. Toss lightly and place on top of the salmon.
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
IT’S NOT JUST “A PIG IN A POKE” THOSE LOOKING TO SOURCE SUPERIOR MEAT SHOULD VISIT A SMALL FARM. Dave Heafner of Da-Le Ranch explains, “For the most part local protein farmers should allow the chef to view some of the animals. Some bio-security issues prevent visits at all sites, but the proof is in the raising.” Dave points out, “There are farms that sell many animals but don’t allow any visitors to their facility. Don’t know if that’s good or not, but we are pretty open.” Da-Le Ranch in Lake Elsinore in owned and operated by husband and wife duo Dave Heafner and Leslie Pesic. The two reinvented themselves as farmers for their encore careers. Dave tends to the business side, sourcing and transporting young animals, meat and feed, along with some actual farm chores and Leslie is the primary animal care-giver. At Da-Le, the animals are grass and pasture fed with fresh veggies and fruits. “They’re tasty because they’re raised with love, care and respect. We even slaughter in a humane manner,” Dave says. The animals are hormone, steroid and antibiotic free, making for meat with notably better flavor. USDA processing of meats is required for restaurants Dave notes. Farms that skip this step and sell custom processed beef, lamb, goat and pork are flouting the law. “Both the restaurant and farmer can get in trouble with the Health Department, Dept of Agriculture and USDA.” The only exceptions are animals raised for personal use. “You raise a hog and have it prepared for your family to eat or game legally taken in the wild for your own personal consumption,” are examples that are allowed. Dave explains, “to help insure public safety regarding meat, there are a myriad of USDA regulations pertaining to every facet of processing, from slaughter to preparation, through to delivery to the consumer.” In California, the USDA is responsible for and regularly inspects the slaughterhouse, transportation, cut and wrap, food prep kitchens, restaurants and catered event sites. The USDA approved slaughterhouses in southern California usually specialize in a single animal. Transportation to and from the facilities must also be in USDA approved refrigerated vans and transport bins to ensure the integrity of the process. “Animals are not often cut and wrapped where slaughtered. After transport to a USDA cut and wrap facility, whole animals are broken down to smaller packages for sale to the customer under the watchful eye of USDA inspectors.” Dave continues, “The process can take from several days to a month. For example, I have a hog slaughtered, and it is generally cut within a couple days, depending on the facility’s work schedule, which I try to plan delivery around.” USDA inspected facilities prepare many cuts, from sausage to bacon, ham and mixed meats and monitor restaurants through the Health Department. “They are also required for mixing meat with ANYTHING. For example, there is a USDA facility that inspects the small microwave burritos that one can buy at any convenience store.” Meats are generally available year round at Da-Le Ranch. “We raise in nine locations spread around central and southern California, so we don’t run out or lose an entire flock as we’ve had happen from unforeseen weather and predators.” Animals are inspected carefully to determine the appropriate time for slaughter. At large-scale factory farms, pigs weigh 240 pounds at six months, but at Da-Le Ranch they need twice that time to make weight. “Ours take about a year to grow to size due to the running around in their arena, pasture and foraging,” Dave says. Their meat is popular among chefs and they have a steady customer base who purchase at various farmers’ markets in places such as SoCo (Costa Mesa), Newport Beach and Escondido. Dave notes demand for lamb is growing with consumers. Whole ducks along with livers and fat sell well for pate and French fries. Pork, beef, rabbit, chicken and chickens eggs, geese and duck make the grade with chefs and market customers. “We only have so much of each item. Customers are happy to wait or make another choice if we are out of their first one,” he says. Farmer Dave recommends parts of the animals that customers might not try on their own. “Many have learned and had exciting cooking experiences with jowl, belly and shanks,” he notes. Chefs and home cooks are also rendering fat for cooking. Better product makes a difference and an impression, so meet your meat. Farming is not for the faint of heart or body. You can take a free tour at Da- Le Ranch and experience a day in the life of a farmer. You’ll muck pens, feed and water animals and clear weeds among other tasks. Learn how the meat you serve is cared for and see the work and dedication it takes to get it from the farm to your kitchen.
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
LOCANDO DEL LAGO WHOLE ANIMAL DINNERS TASTE THE PINNACLE OF ITALIAN TRADTION AT LOCANDA DEL LAGO’S MONTHLY MORSO DELLA BESTIA (BITE OF THE BEAST) DINNER. Prepared by Executive Chef Gianfranco Minuz, each menu consists of five courses celebrating the flavors of the featured animal. Some recent menu courses include: housemade pork liver sausage wrapped in savory cabbage braised in white wine, fresh horseradish sauce; roasted buffalo rib-eye carved tableside, celery root puree, summer truffle-red wine sauce; and rabbit shoulder and belly risotto with zucchini flowers. “We have featured lamb, suckling pig, capon chicken, guinea hen, Muscovy duck, rabbit, buffalo (only half a buffalo), goose, Santa Barbara halibut, wild Virginia striped bass and local albacore tuna,” says Megan Heritage, Director of Finance & Marketing at the Santa Monica restaurant, Locando Del Lago. The restaurant serves the cuisine of Bellagio and the Lake region of northern Italy. “It is a general practice in Italy to use the entire animal in cooking. The innards are often used for pasta fillings, the bones for broths, the meats for main courses, roasts and leftovers for sauces,” she explains. Suckling pig, buffalo and lamb sell out regularly. Cooking methods vary depending on the dish, but roasting is preferred. Whole lamb takes about three hours to roast while suckling pig requires four. Although animals are available year round, “We go lighter in the summer using poultry and fish and then heavier, gamey meats in the fall and winter seasons,” Heritage says. She reports good profitability because all parts of the animal are used. “The yield is phenomenal. The rise in cost occurs when you only use the best cuts from the animal like the chops or tenderloins and you don't utilize the other components.” At Locanda, even the intensely flavored offal is transformed into a variety of dishes. “We have served offal salad over wilted market greens in Nicoise olive vinaigrette, ravioli filled with offal in brown butter sage sauce and a ragu of offal tossed with housemade spaghetti,” Heritage says. The bones, of course, are turned into broth for risottos, sauces and soups. “Surprisingly, most guests who attend the feasts are in love with offal.” She’s observed that those who aren’t fond of organ meats are usually American. Europeans are generally familiar with and partial to them. Morso della Bestia dinners happen once a month for $48 and include house wines.
Hunting and Cooking Boar Hawaiian Style
STALKING AND SHOOTING BOAR, OR FERAL PIGS, IS A SPORT IN HAWAII WITH ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS. The wild pigs cause damage to the islands’ rainforests and crops, and hunting keeps the population under control. The act of roaming the wild in search of meat entices locals and tourists alike. Three Seventy Common Chef/Proprietor Ryan Adams describes the experience. While living in Hawaii he and few friends often hunted boar. Depending on the day and location, “It could take just minutes, hours or never happen” Adams says to track and slay a boar. “After that there is a lot of time needed for cleaning and prepping. It takes a good 5 days before being ready to cook.” The animal must be cleaned, seasoned, wrapped and trussed. Digging the roasting pit, or imu, is an additional job. When ready to cook, “We rub the whole boar down with soy sauce,” he explains. Sugar, Hawaiian sea salt, pineapple and peppercorns are some of the most traditional seasonings. Lava rocks are heated and placed in the pit. The boar is wrapped in chicken wire and placed over several layers of banana leaves and burlap. “Finally it is topped with sand and/or clay, so when it bakes the space turns into a giant ceramic oven,” Chef Adams says. “A vent allows the pig to ‘breathe,’” he adds. Cooking will take from eight to twelve hours depending on the size of the pig. “The ones I’ve prepared weighed between 90-200 pounds,” says Chef Adams, who recommends using leather work gloves, an instantread thermometer, very large tongs, forks and knives. The boar must stay sealed to cook properly. “One time someone fell in the pit and let all the heat out, so the animal never got cooked all the way through,” he recalls. Successful and unsuccessful hunts end with plenty of beer. And for the hunter that made the kill? “The tusks are the reserved prize.”
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
ASK THE BUTCHER “OFFAL IS STILL NOT A HUGELY SOUGHT AFTER ITEM, BUT WHEN PEOPLE DO REQUEST IT, IT’S USUALLY LIVER THAT THEY ARE AFTER,” say Erica and Amelia, the tag team behind Lindy and Grundy butcher shop in Los Angeles. If anyone knows what’s in demand in the meat world it is the butchers — the masters behind the meat, the all knowing suppliers of prime cuts. At the heart of a great piece of meat is the hand that skillfully guides the knife that cuts it. This expertise comes into play particularly when butchering whole animals. Erika Nakamura and Amelia Posada are committed to practicing nose to tail butchering and providing both patrons and chefs alike with local, pastured and organic meats. At Lindy and Grundy, one finds beef, pork, lamb and chicken. Heads for making cheeses, shoulders for making sausages and bones for making stocks are the golden tickets at Lindy and Grundy amongst local chefs. The shop supplies various parts of animals to an extensive list of local restaurants and a few brave kitchens (Tavern, Wood & Vine, The Eveleigh and Salt’s Cure) request whole animals.
Proceed to Pig Perfection
The dynamic duo note, “A lot of chefs that buy from
“I LOVE COOKING WHOLE ANIMALS. I PREFER WILD BOAR, BUT GOAT, LAMB AND DUCK ARE AMAZING
us often purchase whole pigs from us, and they love
AS WELL.”
to utilize the whole animal by making their own stocks, demis, charcuteries, sausages and more.”
Some things you will need to choose before cooking the animal are the method and the cooking vessel. If you cook a whole pig, the first thing you need to decide is what to cook it in. Consider the size of the
Erika and Amelia source from farms that are
pig. An average sized pig (100 lbs) will not fit in a standard oven, but there are other ways. I prefer an open
dedicated to meat sustainability and raising 100%
pit. This is how they cook jerk chicken in Jamaica and brisket in Texas. Just as it sounds, an open pit is four
organically reared animals. To get the best of the best,
walls constructed of bricks, usually about 36 inches high. The wood/charcoal is placed at the bottom with
they source from various farms outside of LA and in
the fire fed to maintain the temperature between 225 – 260 degrees. The wood/charcoal is placed off to one
Northern California. With the exception of some glands
side or in a corner so there is no direct heat under the meat. Think of it as a huge wood-fired oven with smoke
and sinew, you can guarantee that every animal
added.
brought through the doors of Lindy and Grundy is used
Now let’s talk about flavor and seasoning. There are an infinite number of options as there are spices. I
to its fullest capacity. Out of the least demanded parts
prefer to brine my pig overnight. When it’s removed, try applying a light rub and then let it hang for 24 hours
like the offal (kidney, liver, heart, etc.) they make
to allow a nice pellicle. The pellicle, a thin layer that forms on the skin as it dries, allows the smoke and
house terrines, pate and even dog food.
seasoning to stick better. If you are not a fan of injecting meat, you can get the same flavor by using the
Butchering whole animals is a trade requiring
brine.
attentive training and practice. In contrast to some
Let’s not forget about the smoke. For optimum flavor, add small amounts of flavored wood chunks
shops that receive packaged meat, Lindy and Grundy
throughout the entire cooking process. You can use a mix of different woods to achieve the specific flavor
only receive whole animals. They are delivered on an
profile you are looking for. I suggest playing around and thinking about the type of woods you are using and
in-house rail system and butchered every day. Erika
how the flavors will complement the meat. For example, apples go well with pork so it is safe to assume that
and Amelia also host butchery classes in-house and
apple wood is a good choice for smoking pork. Wood is not the only thing that can be used for imparting
sometimes in the homes of patrons. They also offer
flavor. Try pecan shells to add a nice nutty flavor.
an apprentice program. They pride themselves on
Now that you have prepared your meat and planned your flavors, you have to cook. Remember that BBQ
being an old fashioned butcher shop that supports
is all about low temperature for long periods of time. I like to place a pan of water or fruit juice next to the
the endeavors of the little guys, the small family
coals to maintain the moisture level in the smoker. It is very important to keep the meat from drying out. I
owned farms that raise quality meat.
also recommend basting the product every hour. This technique gives you a reason to check the product and
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E heat so you roast the perfect pork. You can tell when it’s done by feeling it and checking the juices. Remember that BBQ does not mean that you can start and walk away. Constantly monitor your pit and know you get out what you put in. The more love and care the better the result. You can serve your pork with anything. Salsa, tortillas and black beans are welcomed accompaniments but coleslaw and ranch style beans are great too. I save the pig feet to use in the beans after they’ve been smoked. You can fry the ears and usually make wonderful head cheese from the head and jowls. Guest writer Chef Don Schoenburg shares his long experience and enthusiasm for cooking whole animals.
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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES
The Whole Hog… But Which Wine?
W
hole hog. Two words that conjure so many different images: a suckling pig with an apple jammed Gimpstyle in its mouth served atop a silver tray as the centerpiece to a Sun King-esque feast; a sweat-drenched good ol’ boy wrenching open his sootblack smoker, beer in hand, overalls loose and drenched, mopping down the skin side with his homemade secret-recipe sauce; a corpulent, mustachioed chef dressed in impeccable whites and a foothigh toque sharpening his carving knife to separate out the choice cuts from the offal. Whatever you picture when you hear “whole hog,” one thing people don’t often
PORK BUTT: Contrary to its name, this cut originates not from the hindquarters but from the pig’s robust upper shoulder and is a favorite among barbecue aficionados everywhere. With vinegar or mustard being the sauce of choice for pulled pork butt, an earthier, spicier red such as a Garnacha from Spain’s Toro region will step aside for the tartness but bring added earthy and smoky dimensions to the meat. PORK BELLY: Unlike the butt, this comes from exactly where it says it’s from. Its rich, dense fatty goodness makes it the second best cut of the pig. Whether roasted or fried, a thick slab of subtly-flavored belly cries out for a red with fruit and acidity in spades. An
Whatever you picture when you hear “whole hog,” one thing people don’t often picture is which wine to pair with each cut.
by Chris Kerns Chris Kern, the founder of online wine shop ForgottenGrapes.com, dreams repeatedly of a pig made entirely of bacon. E-mail him directly at chris@forgottengrapes.com or follow him on Twitter at @ForgottenGrapes.
picture is which wine to pair with each cut. Admit it, you weren’t thinking about wine when you visualized those images I mentioned, were you? Didn’t think so. Fortunately, you’ve got me—America’s Uncommon Wine Expert—to solve this conundrum and recommend the perfect wine to pair with every part of the pig. PORK CHEEK: This rich fatty delicacy— known as Guanciale when rubbed with salt, sugar, pepper, and herbs and aircured for weeks—is a staple of heavy Italian pastas like Spaghetti alla carbonara and Sugo all'amatriciana, so a crisp, tart, medium-bodied Italian white like Arneis from the Piedmont region will cut through the cheeks’ richness and showcase Guanciale’s subtle saltiness and slight sweetness with tart pear flavors.
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Oregon Pinot Noir will do in a pinch, but with my belly, I prefer the deeper, biting astringency of an Alvarelhao or Touriga Nacional from Portugal’s Douro region, both of which are redolent with smooth acidity, dark berries, and a lush, silky mouth feel. BACON: Sure, the belly and bacon may be the same cut, but what a difference smoking and curing makes! When frying up a rasher or two of the greatest substance known to man, pair it with an Austrian Grüner Veltliner, a white whose tart citrus, minerality, and distinct white pepper notes are just made for the smoked crispy goodness of God’s favorite meat. PORK LOIN: From the top of the back and
THE BIZ: BEVERAGES
easily the most sophisticated cut of the pig, a thick, juicy carved pork loin deserves an earthier, more complex red wine of herbs, berries, minerals, and depth. Enter the Cotes-du-Rhone rouge from France’s Rhone Valley, whose potent blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre will bring smoothness, elegance, subtle tannins, and enough acidity to make any pork loin melt like filet mignon in your mouth. SPARE RIBS: Another staple of the smoker, spare ribs usually need nothing more than a spicy-sweet, peppery dry-rub, and a few hours of indirect heat. A tart cherry-flavored red with lots of peppery notes itself like a Spanish Tempranillo from Rioja, will drive the spice to the forefront but counteract the heat and fattiness of fall-off-the-bone ribs. No sauce required.
Whether for Christmas, Easter, or just an average Sunday dinner, ham is a must-have for every occasion that needs a good bottle of wine. HAM: Whether for Christmas, Easter, or just an average Sunday dinner, ham is a must-have for every occasion that needs a good bottle of wine. Whether glazed, honeyed, or pineappled to bring out the subtle smoky, salty, and sweet flavors of a ham roast, you need a light, mildly tart and acidic wine that won’t overpower. My choice? A Beaujolais cru (not to be confused with Beaujolais Nouveau) from
southern Burgundy made from 100% Gamay Noir and aged two years or more. For bolder flavor seek out Cru wines from Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, or Chenas. ADDED BONUS – PORK RINDS: Nothing pairs better with a bag of salty, fatty, crispy chicharrones than an off-dry Riesling from Germany’s Mosel River Valley. Nothing.
JULY | AUGUST 2013 | great taste
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