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FROM THE EDITOR
CONTENT
Content Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net
INSIDE 4 NEW TALENT
THE BIZ 2 0 RAISING THE BAR
Meet the new faces contributing to the Great Taste of Orange County
8
Vermouth
21
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS Restaurants in the Orange County
BAR TALK Artisan. Craft. Boutique. Mixology. Rift.
22
community are recognized for their
VIN Fresh Wine
milestone birthdays.
TRENDS 1 0 POKE
D E PA RT M E N T S 5 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH
Perfect Cuts Mandarinquats
F E AT U R E S 1 2 ASIAN INSPIRATION
9
CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Rogue River Blue
Subtle and Spicy
14
ASIAN TWIST On The Menu
18
CHEF DE CUISINE
RECIPES 7 TIATO ROLL 1 4 ASIAN CARNITAS AND
Chef/Partner Ron Lee
KIM CHEE TACOS
19 20
SALT & PEPPER PORK CHOPS PANACHE COCKTAIL
On The Cover Vegan lovers can enjoy AnQi By House of An’s Tiato Roll. A fresh, crisp roll of delicious veggies rolled in rice paper and soy wrappers. View the recipe for the Tiato Roll on page 7 and one of Chef Ron Lee’s delicious dishes on page 19. Photo by Michael Rutt Photography
TERI’S TAKE hen I grew up Asian cuisine options were few and far between. Going out for Chinese was a grand affair with the flaming Hibachi pupu platter center stage alongside the umbrella-clad Tiki drink. Oh, Tiki drinks – we’ll save that subject for an upcoming issue of Great Taste. There was the occasional Chinese restaurant, perhaps designated by region, but that was about it. In Southern California we’re blessed with a plethora of choices. Not only do the offerings come from many different countries, but from different neighborhoods within those countries! Of course, the next step in the evolution is fusion with non-Asian cuisine and the modernization of Asian Cuisine. Some say it’s bastardization, and Chef Alan Wong professes that Asian + Fusion = Con Fusion, but others consider the progression natural and necessary. Great Chefs, in pursuit of new, exotic flavors are incorporating Asian grown ingredients into dishes to create Umami, bring a specific taste profile or texture to their dishes or create more creative Vegan options. Come discover the flavors of Asia in both Asian and American restaurants.
W
Visit www.great-taste.net for more indepth articles, recipes and cookbook selections. We’re here to spark the fire in your imagination and help keep your restaurant concept evolving! Cheers!
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
3
INSIDE
New Talent
SINCE 2000
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
PHILLIP PRETTY CHEF PARTNER,
EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams
RESTAURATION
Contributors Andrew Aoun
After more than 10 years of cooking in Los Angeles at the
Chef Gabriel Caliendo
likes of Axe, The London and fundamental LA, Long
Sonya Kelsen
Beach native Philip Pretty is finally creating his
Derek Sena
wonderful, thoughtful cuisine in his own city. Chef Pretty
James Wood
joined Restauration in October 2015 and has since put his signature style and culinary flair on the menu while continuing to grow the use of hyperlocal and sustainable ingredients. His mission: be a part of the growing Long Beach culinary scene and help the Long Beach community to eat well and eat local. RESTAURATION 2708 E 4th Street, Long Beach, CA 90814
ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
PHOTO
MAC GREGORY CEO, SAINT MARC USA CEO and master mixologist Mac Gregory, executive of 25 years in the international food and beverage community,
Photography Editor Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com
ADVERTISING
has developed, launched and managed some of world’s
Advertising Sales
most elite luxury hospitality brands and concept
714-960-0534
restaurants. Gregory and his close executives plan to elevate the culinary experience in Orange County by providing an open and welcoming environment to their guests. Shortly after moving to Orange County in April
21851 Newland St #217
2014, Gregory discovered that local dining always considers tourists, visitors and local residents, creating a
Huntington Beach, CA 92646
great, dynamic experience, all of which was considered carefully while developing Saint Marc. SAINT MARC PUB-CAFE, BAKERY & CHEESE AFFINAGE 21058 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, CA 92648
4
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net
INSIDE
PRODUCE PICK O F
T H E
M O N T H
MANDARINQUAT MANDARINQUATS ARE A WONDERFULLY-TART FRUIT. Never heard of them? Well, they’re fairly new and limited in production—you’d typically need to visit specialty produce markets during the months of January through March. They originated in the 1970s in Indio near UCLA, evolved from an open pollinated seedling under a Nagami kumquat tree. This little fruit has a semi-sweet character, and though they can be eaten out-of-hand, they’re well-suited for sauces, purees and preserves. Applying the Mandarinquat’s juice and zest in cocktails can give new life to classic mixes. You can even pair this fruit with aged cheeses, Middle-Eastern spices, and a variety of fresh herbs. Rich in vitamin C and fiber, Mandarinquats are of great nutritional value. Add this fruit to your culinary creations today! The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. www.theproducehunter.com.
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
5
INSIDE
New Talent MICHAEL BECK EXECUTIVE CHEF, HOTEL IRVINE Originally from Austria, Chef Michael Beck has worked at upscale, award-winning clubs and hotels in the U.S. for the last 20 years, including his stints as Executive Chef at The Valley Hunt Club, Pasadena, and Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa, Rancho Santa Fe. Beck takes pride in crafting most of his food in-house at Hotel Irvine and enjoys knowing the history behind each ingredient. In his new position, Chef Beck oversees all food and beverage outlets but his first order of business is to introduce new chef-driven private event menus that will focus on food quality, freshness and, most importantly, flavor. He intends to design a roster of options for events and meetings to include uncomplicated, yet appealing European- and American-style breakfast choices such as hot sandwiches, frittatas and skillets. His goal for private events lunch and dinner menus is to present contemporary restaurant-oriented choices to planners and hosts and then deliver restaurant quality food at all functions. Another goal is to make morning, mid-day and afternoon food and beverage breaks fun and exciting by focusing on themes and providing up-to-date interactive action stations manned by chefs. In addition, developing a new down-to-earth dessert menu for private events is part of Beck’s overall plan. He admits to having a sweet tooth – in fact more than one! HOTEL IRVINE 17900 Jamboree Road, Irvine, California 92614
6
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
INSIDE
TIATO ROLL ON THE COVER
SAUCE PREPARATION
RECIPE BY: House of An
Add garlic, rice vinegar, and sugar in a pot.
Makes 4 Rolls
Reduce the liquid until golden in color, or about 3/4 C remains. Add cilantro, chopped chilies, lime juice
1
Package firm tofu - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons
1/2
Zucchini - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons
1/2
Chinese eggplant - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons
ROLL PREPARATION
1/2
Sweet potato - cut into 3” x 1/2” batons
Fry all vegetables until light golden brown and
16
Tia tô leaves (Vietnamese Perilla)
tender. Marinate zucchini and eggplant with Cilantro
16
Thai basil leaves
Chili Sauce. Season sweet potato and tofu with salt,
4 sheets Rice paper
and fish sauce.
pepper and a pinch of sugar.
4 sheets Sesame soy wrappers 8 oz
Sweet Cilantro Chili Sauce
TO ASSEMBLE
Salt, pepper, sugar to sprinkle
Soak rice paper in warm water just enough to slightly soften. About 7 seconds. Place soaked rice paper
CILANTRO CHILI SAUCE
flat on work surface. Place soy paper on center of
2T
Garlic - minced
rice paper. Proceed with a line of both herbs. Layer
1C
Sugar
vegetables on top of the herbs. Wrap base of spring
1C
Seasoned rice wine vinegar
roll over veggies, and continue to roll to make a tight
1T
Red chilies - chopped
cylinder being careful not to wrap too tight as the
2T
Cilantro - chopped
wrapper will break.
1t
Fish sauce
1t
Fresh lime juice
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
7
INSIDE
Happy Anniversary
Books
In the restaurant business, arriving at the one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment. In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and lauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations on your milestone birthdays! Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.
26 YEARS L’OPERA
AN: TO EAT In Vietnamese, “an” means “to eat,” a happy coincidence, since the An family has
WHAT YEAR DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN? 1990
built an award-winning restaurant empire—
HOW MANY OWNERS HAS THE RESTAURANT HAD? Terry Antonelli has been the owner since the restaurant’s
including Orange County’s AnQi. Helene
inception, but he has had several business partners over the years.
An, executive chef and matriarch of the
HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DOES THE RESTAURANT CURRENTLY HAVE? 49
House of An, is hailed as the “Mother of
TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE POPULARITY OF THE RESTAURANT? The popularity of the restaurant is
Fusion” and was inducted into the
attributed to many things not the least of which our amazing consistency and timeless design that has never
Smithsonian Institute for her signature
been trendy but enduring. Chef Cotta has maintained an unparalleled menu that has earned the restaurant
style that brings together Vietnamese,
countless coveted awards and critical acclaim both locally and nationally as Zagat's top 1000 restaurants in
French, and California-fresh influences.
the nation. Chef Cotta prides himself in personally shopping for the best produce, fish, poultry and meats from
Now, her daughter Jacqueline tells the
many local markets including many organic herb farms.
family story and shares her mother’s
Our pastas and breads our made on site daily to insure the freshest foods for our dining guests.
delicious and previously “secret” recipes,
TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE LONGEVITY OF THE RESTAURANT? The Longevity of L'Opera is a
including “Mama’s” Beef Pho, Drunken
testament to our food and service and an ambience that is classical and timeless. The majority of our staff is
Crab, and Oven-Roasted Lemongrass
seasoned and has been here over 15 years and has established many enduring friendships with our wonderful
Chicken.
guests over the years. The interiors are always fresh as we renovate every few years with new upholstery etc.
The book is a fascinating peek at a
and are continuously adding new items on our menu including many vegan, vegetarian and gluten free items
remote world, and the evolution of an
to insure that our guests have the many options that they desire.
extraordinary cuisine. The 100 recipes in
WHAT MAKES YOUR RESTAURANT UNIQUE? The uniqueness of L'Opera is it's classical design and being
An: To Eat feature clean flavors, simple
located in one of Long Beach's oldest and most recognized historical buildings. circa 1906. The clock tower
techniques, and unique twists that could
located on the roof of this 6 story building keeps the downtown "on time" as the clock chimes each hour. The
only have come from Helene’s personal
award winning design features a ground up restoration of what was once the First National Bank. The original
story.
ceilings were meticulously restored and accented by a series of marble columns that sit on mahogany hardwood flooring throughout the main dining room. The restaurant is richly adorned by etched beveled glass
To purchase this book and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.
and granite and features a modern exhibition kitchen with a copper Façade. The building was renamed "The L'Opera Building" in 1998. ARE THERE ANY ORIGINAL DISHES THAT ARE STILL ON THE MENU TODAY? L’Opera is constantly improving upon the menu. Here are several CUSTOMER FAVORITES: FAVORITO!!! — Homemade Red & Green Tagliatelle Pasta Sautéed with Jumbo Lump Crab, Butter & Black Truffle Peelings, Drizzled with Truffle Oil CAPPELLACCI DI ZUCCA — Homemade Ravioli, Butternut Squash, Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Spicy Marinara, Shaved Parmigiano Cheese, Brown Butter Sage Sauce LASAGNA DI POLLO — Homemade Sheet Pasta, Chicken Ragu, Mozzarella, Ricotta Cheese, Parmigiano Cheese, Spicy Tomato Sauce, Creamy Pesto Sauce SALMONE DORATO — Sustainably- Raised Salmon, Shaved Apple, Fennel, Cider Mustard Sauce;
MAKE CONTACT
Fingerling Potatoes, Leeks, Smoked Pancetta (Italian Bacon)
101 Pine Avenue
CIOPPINO — Stew of Fresh Fish, Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, Crab, Calamari, Clam Juice, Tomatoes; Crostini
Long Beach, CA 90802
HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We are planning to announce our milestone celebration as soon
GENERAL MANAGER: Nicole Lira
the existing renovations has been completed sometime in late August 2016.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Walter Cotta
8
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
INSIDE
1 YEAR WURSTHAUS
25 YEARS BACI
WHAT YEAR DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN?
Baci Restaurant was open in the month of March in
Wursthaus had it's first official soft opening on
1991. My name is Angelo Juliano, Chef/Owner and it
February 20th, 2015. However, our Anniversary
has been my pleasure to bring Authentic Italian food
Celebrations took place this year on March 5th,
to Huntington Beach. I can honestly tell you I am a
2015. If you ask anyone, we opened in March 2015
real Italian running a family business. My wife Maria
as that is when we first hit our stride serving up the
Juliano is the General Manager for the last 21 years.
best brats and biers in Santa Ana.
We are celebrating by giving 15% off the entire
18748 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach, CA
WHAT IS THE SIGNATURE DISH? Many would
dinner bill for dinner Sunday to Thursday for the
GENERAL MANAGER: Maria Juliano
disagree on our signature dish. We serve up a wide
months of March and April.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Angelo Juliano
MAKE CONTACT
variety of classic, gourmet, and exotic sausages (including Alligator!). However, our signature and most popular sausage is our Smoked Bratwurst. It's made with pork, spices, and a dash of paprika. It's delicious in our homemade pretzel roll or traditional grinder. It is also the perfect addition to our famous Drunken Fries that are made with fresh-cut kennebec potatoes twice-fried golden and topped with haus andalouse sauce and our IPA caramelized onions. HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We celebrated our anniversary this year with a night-long
CHEESE PICK O F
T H E
M O N T H
promotion inviting our loyal patrons to 'bring a brat' and 'get a brat.' The brat could be their best friend, husband, cousin, mom, boyfriend, girlfriend, whomever, but if they bought any brat they'd get our smoked bratwurst for free. One of their brats equaled one of ours from 5pm to midnight on March 5th! DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES OR EXPANSION? We're very excited to announce we just got approved to expand and start construction on a new rooftop section of our restaurant that will allow us to bring a classic European Beer Garden to Santa Ana. Guests will be able to sip our imported Belgium and German brews on a patio overlooking Downtown Santa Ana by midsummer. We hope this expansion will allow us to provide the perfect environment for day-drinking and brat-eating, in addition to a must-see place on all Santa Ana late-night beer crawls.
ROGUE BLUE
MAKE CONTACT
ROGUE RIVER BLUE IS A HIGHLY-VENERATED BLUE CHEESE MADE BY ROGUE CREAMERY, a
305 E 4th St.
numerous awards, including a 1st Place award in the Blue Class at the World Cheese Awards! Only
Santa Ana, 92701
made during autumn, when the cow’s milk is best suited for the pursued flavor profile, the cheese is
GENERAL MANAGER:
wrapped in grape leaves that have been macerated in pear brandy. The aging process lasts for a
Georgiana Ruiz
minimum of eight months, giving a beautifully-well-aged, fruit and brandy flavor, with a tactfully-
EXECUTIVE CHEF: (Wursthaus was
wonderful hint of hazelnut and a firm texture. Rogue River Blue is complemented by strong beers
established with the owners' vision and a chefs
(barleywines, Belgian dark strong ales, porters, etc.), bourbons, tempranillos, and rieslings. With a
consultant helped us establish the recipes) We do not
cheese this exquisite, be sure to serve it at your next party or get-together!
have an Executive Chef Georgiana oversees all kitchen execution.
Southern Oregon-based creamery that focuses predominantly on blue cheese. This cheese has won
For more information on Rogue River Blue or Rogue Creamery, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
9
TRENDS
SoCal is Hungry for Poke POKE—PRONOUNCED POH-KAY—IS A HAWAIIAN DISH THAT IS
What made you decide to put poke on the menu at Yard House? It was
this raw fish salad getting so much hype? Why are new poke restaurants
great way to utilize raw Tuna in a different way. It was also an exciting story
popping up? How did people even get the idea to make a veritable raw fish
for our guests as we, as a brand, like to be a culinary bridge to the masses,
hodge-podge, discover that it would actually taste nothing short of amazing,
introducing new flavors. We put it on the menu at our original Long Beach
and call it an appetizer/entrée?
location in 1999.
Starting from humble origins, poke began when fishermen would season
How does poke fit with the Yard House theme? For food, we like to have
and snack on the cutoffs of their catch. Poke is traditionally served with ahi
authentic flavors with food that has a story, then, we put our spin on it. As
tuna, otherwise known as yellowfin tuna. Heavily influenced by Asian
far as fit, it works well for our guest and goes great with the variety of beer
cuisine, the tuna cuts are seasoned with ingredients like soy sauce, green
we carry.
onions, sesame seeds/oil, dried seaweed, wasabi, and ginger. Thematically,
Would you consider serving a broader spectrum of poke, such as with
the sauces or condiments that are considered typical in Japanese sushi
octopus? We have prepared Ono for special events, and we are certainly open
cuisine (sriracha, salmon roe, roasted garlic, ponzu sauce, you name it) can
to it as trends evolve.
be tactful in an ahi poke dish. Also, the fish can easily be replaced or mixed with other raw, marinated seafood, such as salmon, octopus, or scallops. Poke, in its present form, has only started gaining popularity since the 70s, mainly in Hawaii. While Chinese food has been in the United States for over a century, many Asian foods haven’t truly gained an American following
Have you visited any of the new poke restaurants in Southern California? I have not but [I] will soon. I have seen two different locations open up in my neighborhood. I have to admit that I have bought poke at Costco. What do you think of the new poke trends? I think the poke trend is right up the alley of healthful eating with an adventurous bent.
until latter parts of the 20th century. Poke only truly hit its stride amongst
Well, now you might be asking: Where do I go to find a good bowl of poke
Orange County residents during the last few years! (Yes—poke has been
and try this stuff out? From upscale eateries like Yard House, to popular
around SoCal for longer than a few years, but never has it piqued the interest
chains like California Fish Grill, to foodie-favorite joints like North Shore
of the region like now!)
Poke Co. in Huntington Beach or PokeNometry, you can’t go wrong. It must
At Great Taste, we wanted to delve further into poke, so we asked Chef
be emphasized that, since poke can be done in so many ways, each
Carlito Jocson, Vice President and Corporate Executive Chef of Yard House,
restaurant prepares it differently, so try it everywhere you go until you
for his opinions on the matter since he was one of the first Chefs to introduce
discover your favorite. Want to know more?
Poke to local mainstream diners. How did you first experience poke? I experienced it in the big Island of
10
Hawaii served with some dried shrimp and poi.
TRENDING SIGNIFICANTLY ACROSS SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. But why is
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
Come visit us at Great-Taste.net for information and addresses to all the popular poke hot spots!
TRENDS
Celebrate National Soy Foods Month Located in Los Angeles, AFC has been in the soy manufacturing industry for over 40 years, providing tofu that can be used in salads, baked tofu that can be used in sandwiches, soy noodles as a low carb item, and soy pudding as a healthy dessert to name just a few items in their expansive product lines. Tofu is a nutrient dense food that is low in calories, high in protein and contains many important vitamins and minerals including all eight of the amino acids that the body needs. If tofu was not a staple item in the mainstream diet 10 years ago, it is now, with the millennials who are highly aware in making healthy food choices and have great buying power to do so. Millennials account for $6 billion in food expenditures and 45% of that figure is spent just on eating away from home; surpassing the baby boomers.1 Many restaurants including Mendocino Farms, Pick Up Stix, P.F. Chang's, Pei Wei, Salata, Urth Cafe, and Yard House have incorporated AFC products into their vegan and Asian menu options like vegan sandwiches, noodle Yard House specs AFC soy products in their Garlic Noodle and Lettuce Wrap dishes.
dishes, lettuce wraps and rolls. Today, AFC produces more than 17,000 packages of tofu daily, along with its other popular products in their state-of-
SOY PRODUCTS, SUCH AS TOFU ARE VERSATILE ITEMS THAT CAN BE A
the-art facility, and continues to be one of the largest manufacturers of soy
TASTY MEAT ALTERNATIVE FOR RESTAURANTS LOOKING TO EXPAND
products established in the United States.
THEIR
CURRENT
MENU
CATERING
TO
HEALTH
CONSCIOUS
For more information on ordering AFC
CONSUMERS. While soy has been highly contested, and people may think
products directly, through a distributor or ideas
all soy products are genetically modified, only American grown non-
of how to incorporate soy products into your
genetically modified soybeans and certified-organic soybeans are used at the
restaurant’s menu, visit www.afcsoyfoods.com.
American Food Company (AFC) manufacturing plant.
1 The Food Institute: www.foodinstitute.com/blog/Millenials
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
11
F E AT U R E
Asian Inspiration
ABOUT THE WRITER Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the VP of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar. Stay tuned for Chef Gabe’s new column. SEA-FARM-TABLE
by Chef Gabriel Caliendo
AT LAZY DOG RESTAURANT & BAR WE LIKE TO UTILIZE ASIAN FLAVORS
sesame seeds and sesame oil. The cucumber salad is a perfect side dish that
AND PROFILES THROUGHOUT OUR MENU. Sometimes, we are creating
is crisp and refreshing. It also happens to be very low in calories and is
our version of an authentic dish, and other times we are just using Asian
featured on Lazy Dogs’ “Nutritious & Delicious” menu as a low-calorie
ingredients to enhance a dish. Either way, the Lazy Dog team loves to
option.
develop dishes inspired by Asian cuisine and Asian ingredients.
Sometimes the inspiration isn’t based on an authentic recipe, but a
We have several dishes that are inspired by, and authentic to, the cuisine
concept that utilizes the ingredients of the Asian country. A great example
of the country. From Thailand, we’ve created our version of Pad Thai
of this is our Calamari Appetizer. It starts by marinating calamari strips in a
Noodles, featuring rehydrated rice vermicelli, tofu, scrambled eggs,
traditional Chinese solution of egg whites, cornstarch, oil and salt. It is then
chicken, shrimp, vegetables and crushed peanuts served in our house made
dredged in flour and flash-fried at a very high temperature for a short period
pad Thai sauce. The sauce is made using traditional ingredients, such as,
of time to seal in the juices. The fried calamari is added to a clean wok with
fresh squeezed lemon juice, fresh chopped ginger and the pungent but
ginger, garlic, bell peppers, peanuts and our house made five-spice Asian
delicious Fish Sauce. There are many levels in quality with fish sauce — I
BBQ sauce. After quickly tossing it is finished with sesame oil and plated on
always choose a brand that has anchovy and water as their first two
top of steamed rice and garnished with sesame seeds and green onions.
ingredients.
Another dish Lazy Dog offers is our Sticky Ribs with Asian Slaw and Umami
Lazy Dog serves a traditional Japanese edamame appetizer, but with a
fries. The crispy tender ribs are tossed in a sesame plum sauce. The slaw is
twist! We toss the whole edamame beans in a wok with fresh ginger and our
mixed with our own dressing version of a Ponzu sauce. The French fries are
house-made Japanese Togarashi, a blend of black and white sesame seeds,
drizzled with an Asian inspired sauce made with ginger, sambal chile paste
red chile flakes, sea salt, garlic and peppercorn. We then take this blend to
and the traditional Japanese eel sauce found at sushi bars. When combined
the next level by adding fresh orange peel, making Lazy Dogs’ version a
the dish truly embodies the flavors of Umami!
Nanami Togarashi! Also from Japan is our version of Sunomono or Japanese
12
Cucumber Salad. We finely shave seedless cucumbers, carrots and radishes
Togarashi, the Japanese word for “chiles,” is a group of condiments always
and then quick pickle them in rice wine vinegar, sugar, black and white
including chiles that bring out the clean, simple flavors of Japanese food.
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
digital
catalog
advertising
web
studio
location
www.michaelrutt.com 949-322-7590 | michael@michaelrutt.com
F E AT U R E
Asian Twist ASIAN CARNITAS AND KIM CHEE TACOS By Chef Tom Fraker Melissa’s Produce Makes 12 servings – 20 mini tacos 2 lbs
Pork butt
MARINADE 1C
Soy sauce
1C
Water
1/2 C
Seasoned rice vinegar
1/2 C
Fresh orange juice
THE ASIAN DINING CULTURE CONTINUES TO EVOLVE ONTO MAINSTREAM MENUS as chefs get more
1/4 C
Honey
familiar with the flavors of the east. They are incorporating ingredients most noteworthy on Asian menus into
2 Cloves Melissa’s peeled garlic - minced
dishes not customarily inclusive of them. Ingredients like, enoki mushrooms, fish sauce, ginger, bean
1T
Fresh ginger - minced
sprouts, bok choy, and sesame are blended with non-traditional pairings, adding just a touch of Asia.
1/4 C
Sweet chili sauce
1T
Sesame oil
On other menus in the non-Asian sector we now find not only inspired dishes but authentic dishes like sushi, pho, dumplings, spicy noodle dishes and the like. Roy's first introduced me to their unforgettable, and still favorite, Misoyaki Butterfish and similar dishes are now found on many seafood restaurant menus.
TOPPINGS
Tangata, created by Chef Joachim Splichal, offers a modern Pacific Rim influenced cuisine reflective of the
1 jar
Melissa’s jo san kim chee - chopped
exhibitions at Bowers Museum in Santa Ana. Executive Chef Donald Harris combine the tastes of Asia, the
3
Melissa’s mini cucumbers - ends
noodles, spicy cabbage, and charred green onion; Spam Tacos with corn tortillas, sesame marinated seaweed
3
Fresh roma tomatoes - diced small
salad, and spicy Sriracha crema; and Manilla Clams with ginger, scallions, coconut milk, and Thai basil.
1/2 C
Sweet chili sauce
Accompaniments such as kimchi are now served to balance and enhance dishes with no Asian inspiration.
2T
Hot chili oil
40
“Chicanitas” corn tortillas (4.5-inch
Pacific Islands, and California to create dishes such as Korean Marinated Skirt Steak with sesame glass
Here in Orange County we're lucky to have not only the enclave of Little Saigon, but we also have Chinese centers with shops and restaurants, Japanese mega stores, and Korean markets; some of the best choices in
trimmed; diced small
diameter)
the world. Then there are the authentic Asian restaurants upfront like AnQi, Capital Seafood, and Din Tai Fung
Mix the marinade ingredients until well combined.
introducing their cuisines with no substitute to authenticity but also with a touch of fusion. And yes, we have
In a pot or dutch oven, add the 2 pounds of pork
plenty of fusion restaurants. Born in Southern California’s culinary melting pot, Urban Seoul brings a menu
butt and the marinade. Cover and refrigerate
revolving around California and traditional bibimbap dishes. The cultural background of those in line at Lee’s
overnight. Preheat the oven to 350º. Remove the
Sandwiches, East Borough, Hashigo, Mr Katsu, Jolly B, Goldie Locks, Guppy House, etc. are varied as it
pan with the pork from the refrigerator, cover with
should be in the melting pot of educated diners in Orange County.
foil and set at room temperature for 30 minutes.
In Los Angeles, teppanyaki tables are many, hot pots continue to appear and it seems that these
Place in the preheated oven and roast for about 1
interactive dining options are forefront in the appetites of some of the younger self-proclaimed "foodie" dining
hour or until the interior temperature reaches 160º.
audience. WP24 by Wolfgang Puck, perched on the 24th floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles offers guests
Remove from the oven, let cool and shred pork,
a fine dining Chinese restaurant offering an elevated take on traditional dishes with high-end, farm fresh
using 2 forks. Drizzle with the pan drippings and
ingredients, authentic flavors and spices, and eye-catching presentation such its Whole Roasted Peking
mix well. To assemble the tacos, stack 2 tortillas on
Duck, XO Seafood Dumplings with sweet shrimp, Alaskan king crab, and Maine lobster. The service style
a plate. Top with some pork, kim chee, cucumber
includes a customizable dining experience moving away from their original tasting menu format, and menu
and tomatoes. In a bowl, mix together the chili
additions offering a la carte and family-styled dishes.
sauce and chili oil. Drizzle on the taco and repeat
In Washington DC Filipino cuisine is making a splash. Could it be next for Orange County?
14
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
for remaining tortillas.
F E AT U R E
KIMCHI Kim Chee, also spelled kimchee or gimchi, is a traditional fermented Korean side dish made of vegetables (napa cabbage, radish, scallion, or cucumber) with a variety of seasonings. In traditional
preparation,
kimchi
was
stored
underground in jars to keep cool during the summer months and unfrozen during the winter months. Asian Carnitas and Kim Chee Tacos (see previous page for recipe)
PHO A traditional Vietnamese noodle dish, pho consists of meat and ban pho, a medium wide rice stick noodle served in a bowl of clear broth flavored with seasonings such as star anise, ginger, ngo gai and onion, with accompaniments like basil, bean sprouts, chili peppers, onion, lemon or lime, mint and cilantro. Beef Pho: Shortribs and an egg. Chef Cathy Pavlos Provenance 2531 Eastbluff Dr, Newport Beach, California 92660
KOREAN STYLE BARBECUED BEEF (BULGOGI) Consisting of thin, tender strips of beef that have been marinated for several hours before being briefly grilled, Bulgogi, Korean for “fire meat,” isn’t highly spiced. Bernie's Bones: Korean-style short-ribs, pickled vegetables, sesame seeds. Chef Justin Odegard Ways & Means 21022 Pacific Coast Hwy, Huntington Beach, California 92648
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
15
F E AT U R E
TOFU Custard-like, white tofu is made from curdled Soy Milk, an iron-rich liquid extracted from ground, cooked Soybeans. The resulting curds are drained and pressed in a fashion similar to cheese-making. The firmness of the resulting tofu depends on how much whey has been extracted. Tofu has a bland, slightly-nutty flavor that gives it a chameleon-like capability to take on the flavor of the food with which it’s cooked. Babette's Salad: Mixed baby lettuce, crisp organic tofu, toybox tomato, roasted beets, shaved parmesan, fennel, walnut herbed potato, red wine vinaigrette. Chef Michael B Powell Babette’s 7962 E Coast Hwy, Newport Beach, California 92657
FISH SAUCE Popular throughout Southeast Asia, fish sauce can be any of various mixtures based on the liquid from salted, fermented fish. This extremely pungent, strong-flavored and salty liquid can range in color from ochre to deep brown. It is used as a condiment and flavoring, just as soy sauce would be used. Fish sauces may be flavored variously — such as with chiles or sugar — depending on the use. Thai Balls: Buttermilk fried pork cutlet, jalapeño cilantro lime shallot fish sauce, topped with maple syrup. Chef Cody Storts Grits 133 W Chapman Ave. Fullerton, California 92832
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www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
F E AT U R E
KOBE An exclusive grade of beef from cattle raised in Kobe, Japan. These pampered cattle are massaged with Sake and fed a special diet that includes plentiful amounts of beer. This specialized treatment results in beef that is extraordinarily tender and full-flavored. It also makes the beef extravagantly expensive which is why it’s rarely available in the United States.
TERIYAKI A Japanese dish of food, such as beef or chicken, that has been marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, sake (or sherry), sugar, ginger and seasonings before being grilled, broiled or fried. The sugar in the marinade gives the cooked food a slight glaze. The Rising Sun: Kobe beef, teriyaki glaze, nori fruitcake, crispy yam, spicy mayo, and tempura avocado. Holsteins Shakes and Buns 3333 Bristol St, Costa Mesa California 92626
KUNG PAO A spicy sour-sweet Chinese stir-fry dish of chunks or strips of chicken, shrimp or vegetables with sweet peppers, dried chiles, peanuts, garlic, ginger, wine and soy sauce. Kung Pao Pizza: Asian spiced chicken topped with mozzarella, red onion, sweet bell peppers, and pineapple. Craftsman Woodfired Pizza 148 E Yorba Linda Blvd, Placentia, California 92870
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
17
CHEF DE CUISINE and turn on the TV. [I was] beat. [I was] tired. I’d lay on the couch, flipping through the channels, and I would come across chefs on TV. It wasn’t even the Food Network. It was Discovery Channel. And they had this program called “Great Chefs.” They would highlight three chefs on a 30-minute program. That setting, where I would see a chef just cook a dish, and they would talk about the preparation—[they might be] from France and even need a translator. But the technique they would show on camera, the plating and the artistry and everything, I was wowed. I was so into it. I want to do that!” After high school when his parents split—and Ron was forced to move several times, going to several different community colleges—cooking was always a therapeutic past time. So, when he was dealing with the hardships of UCLA pre-med, he would remember the cooks on Great Chefs, and at that point it seemed like a no-brainer. Ron went to his school advisor and dropped from UCLA. His advisor told him that, if the “cooking thing” did not pan out, he could always come back, but to Ron it was a point of no return. In 2001, at the age of 25, Ron enrolled into Le Cordon Bleu. There, he worked hard to learn the foundational aspects of his trade. He then found his first kitchen job at Mistral, where he learned a great deal of seafoodcooking techniques, before working at other esteemed establishments such as Melisse and Napa Rose. It was at Melisse that he would learn butchery, and it was at Napa Rose that he would develop his butchery techniques, from duck to fish to lamb. Napa Rose would come to be a very educational experience, as they had a “vintners menu,” where every week had a new menu. During his time at Napa Rose, he met his girlfriend, Bon Buttasin, a fellow cook. He worked at Napa Rose for seven years, becoming promoted to sous-chef when a fellow sous-chef had temporarily leave. Unfortunately, when that fellow sous-chef returned, Ron was returned to the line, and it was Photo by Michael Rutt
soon after that, that he left Napa Rose and found his place at AnQi. At AnQi, Chef Ron is pushed to the limit. Of course, when you work with the An family, the spotlight is always right above. Elizabeth An, daughter of the famous Chef Helene “Mama”, is the main operator of AnQi, and constantly pushes for new events and promotions! With large productions happening
Chef Ron Lee by Derek Sena
year ‘round, it is a wonder that he has the tenacity and perseverance to keep up. From fashion events, to catering off-site, to in-house promotions, new dishes are always being created. To Chef Ron, these productions are essential to success in fine dining: “Just having good food is not enough, these days. There’s too much competition.” Through Chef Ron Lee’s culinary experiences, from his formal education at Le Cordon Bleu, to his kitchen jobs at Mistral, Melisse, Napa Rose, and
18
DURING CHILDHOOD, MANY PEOPLE FIND ACTIVITIES THEY ENJOY AND
AnQi, he says that the main take-away that everyone should prioritize is
LOVE. Some children want to become actors, some want to become
humility, something that he says he lacked early on in his career. He even
professional athletes, some want to become astronauts. For Chef Ron,
said that that early ego costed him dearly, in that when being interviewed for
becoming a veterinarian was that dream. Ron considered many aspirations;
potential work with the Four Seasons Hotel, it kept him from getting in the
not only did he want to be a veterinarian, but perhaps an officer or a fireman.
door. It was inspiring to hear what he had learned, ascribing these lessons
He was so hard-working and smart, that as a young adult, he was accepted
to chefs he had worked and learned under: “Leave your attitude at the door.
and was fulfilling pre-med courses at UCLA to realize his veterinary dream.
[Wherever you go,] come with a clean slate and just work. If you have
But even with the multiple ambitions, as well as the prestige of UCLA pre-
something going on, just forget about it. [Like with athletes,] when you play,
medicine, something was still not clicking. After long, arduous school days,
you just play. It’s game time.” Chef Ron also ascribes worth to family. Once
Ron would turn the television on and watch one of his favorite shows on the
he’s off the clock, he likes to go home to his family, where he and his
Discovery Channel: Great Chefs. It was watching this show that he would
girlfriend raise a girl they’re hoping to adopt. “I’m almost 40 years old!
realize his true calling in life—to be a chef.
There’s this biological yearning for someone small to take care of. And I got
Ron always loved cooking. Growing up, cooking seemed like the most
it now. Basically, it was that missing piece that I didn’t have. I have the
therapeutic event of each day. During an interview with Ron, he explained:
career and the status. [ . . . ] What is fulfilling is coming home to hear ‘Papa,
“When I was in high school, I would get out of football practice, come home,
you’re home!’”
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
CHEF DE CUISINE
SALT & PEPPER PORK CHOPS WITH RED PLUM SAUCE CHEF RON LEE I used to make this dish for my fellow cooks on special occasions. They would ask for it for family meal at least once a month. 3
Single bone pork chops
METHOD
1/2 C
Corn starch
Pound pork chop with a tenderizer to 1/2” thickness. Season both sides with salt
2T
Garlic - minced
and pepper. Dredge in corn starch. Shallow fry on medium heat in a skillet with a
2t
Ginger - minced
1/4” of neutral oil. Cook chops one by one in the skillet till lightly browned on both
2
Red Fresno or jalapeño chilis - sliced thinly
sides. Let drain on a towel. In a separate pan or wok. Add Black pepper and toast
2
Scallions - sliced on a bias 1/2 inch pieces
till fragrant with no oil. Add 3 T oil and add cooked pork chops. Once golden brown
1t
Salt
flip and add garlic, ginger, chilis, and scallions. Mix salt and sugar and season
1/2 t
Black pepper
chops liberally. Place pork chops on a plate and spoon the luscious aromatics and
1t
Sugar
the sauce over the top of the meat.
RED PLUM SAUCE
SAUCE
4
Red plums - peeled seeded and cut into quarters
Add sugar to a sauce pan. Bring to medium heat and make a dry caramel. Add
1/4 C
Sugar
shallots, lemongrass and plums. Let the juices of the fruit degrade the pan. Add
1/3 C
Rice vinegar
vinegar and reduce liquid by a third. Add fish sauce. Blend at high speed to make
1T
Shallots - minced
smooth.
1t
Lemongrass - minced
1t
Fish sauce
Enjoy!
From the Chef’s Mouth ANNIVERSARY WITH THIS RESTAURANT I just
JUNK FOOD BBQ potato chips
ANQI
celebrated my five year anniversary at AnQi on
RAW INGREDIENT I love working with all herbs
3333 S. Bristol St.
February 4, 2016
especially exotic herbs - Vietnamese Tiato and
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Kinh Gioi
www.anqibistro.com
AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A
FAST FOOD Sushi in a Box
WEEK Approximately 60 hours
FOOD PROGRAM Iron Chef -Japan
1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY
MOST RECOMMENDED FOOD INGREDIENT
When I was a kid, I remember walking into the
SOURCE FOR FOODIES Melissa’s for fresh produce
HOURS
kitchen seeing big plastic buckets on the floor and
& Zion Market in Irvine
11:30am-9pm Sun & Mon
ESTABLISHED December 15, 2009
my parents were making Kim Chi.
11:30am-10pm Tues-Thur BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB I
11:30am-11pm Fri & Sat
KITCHEN That it is a glamorous job
worked as a prep cook at Mistral - Beverly Hills
AVERAGE COVER SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE Too
Lunch: $ 28
IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE A police
many to choose from but if I have to choose, a
Dinner: $ 65
officer, I studied biology at UCLA before turning my
well-seasoned juicy steak, cooked in a pan
love of cooking into a career.
HE
3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY
C
STYLE Clean, Timeless & Innovative
knives - expensive ones especially Misono
3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR MANAGEMENT
*
KITCHEN APPLIANCE A great wok is my go to
STYLE Patient, Hands-on & Motivating
SPO
COOKWARE French Copper pots and pans CONDIMENT/SPICE Pantai
ADVICE FOR STUDENTS INTERESTED IN THE
DISH TO EAT Fresh from the oven baguette with
HOSPITALITY AND CULINARY INDUSTRY If you
gourmet Plugra butter, homemade ramen; never
truly love to cook and work in this industry, work
fails, nor does fried chicken
becomes easier and more fulfilling each day.
N
MELIS SA’ PRODU S CE
* Y
KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL I love Japanese
RY
FAVORITES:
F ST O
SO
B RED
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
19
THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR
18th Century Spirit by James Wood
THE WORD VERMOUTH DERIVED FROM “WORMWOOD,” EARLIER
WAS
INHERITED
HUNGARIAN
Almost all contemporary Vermouth producers manufacture
both
sweet
(red)
and
WHEN
CONCEPTUALIZING
THE
BAR
dry
PROGRAM FOR VACA, it was important to
GERMAN
Vermouths. It is generally fair to say that French
us to match the authenticity of the food with
WORMWOOD-INFUSED WINES OF THE SAME
producers are better known for the lighter, dry
that of the bar experience and drinks offered
NAME. Modern vermouth is a refinement
and white Vermouths, and Italian producers for
in Spain. In addition to the gin tonics and
incorporating the most desirable elements of
the red, spicy Torino-inspired Vermouths. All
sherry served throughout the country, one
both these older wines and various other
commercial Vermouths are proprietary formulas,
would see vermouth being served, often
traditions
the
and it is their unique botanicals and flavor
house-made and on tap, especially in
principal, defining botanical. The Vermouth we
profiles that distinguish them. Some may be
Madrid. With vermouth's popularity once
know today originated in the region around Turin,
better, some lesser, although even those often
again on the rise in the U.S., we thought
Italy in the late 18th Century as a moderately
judged amongst the “best” may not be best in all
this was our chance to expose our guests to
sweet and herbaceous bottled beverage. In
circumstances. It is particularly important to not
the versatility of good vermouth, especially
ensuing years, other interpretations of the idea
fall into the trap of comparing vermouths to some
as
emerged from France, predominately in the
platonic ideal: it’s no more reasonable to expect
Developing our own recipe truly gives our
Chambéry (Savoy) and Lyon/Marseilles regions.
with
Wormwood
AND
FROM
remaining
something
to
drink
on
its
own.
all vermouths of one style to taste the same than
clientele something that, along with the
In the United States, Vermouth imported from
it is to expect all bourbons or gins to taste the
Vaca Tonic, they cannot get anywhere else.
Italy became wildly popular beginning in the
same. Celebrate the diversity of choice and let
Our favorite way to serve it is simply on the
1870s, and ever since, this type of Vermouth has
your own taste be your guide.
rocks with an orange peel but we also
been strongly associated with the Manhattan cocktail. By contrast, Europeans commonly sip
created a Roma, our take on the Americano
PANACHE COCKTAIL
this aperitif neat or over a little ice. The dry style,
that’s on the vermouth section of our cocktail menu. House vermouth, Gran
that emerged first in France, achieved similar
Glass: Old Fashioned
Classico and soda water with a grapefruit
popularity in the US almost concurrently,
Garnish: Lemon Twist
peel. (pictured above).
eventually becoming strongly associated with the
Ingredients:
Martini cocktail. Dry vermouth, especially that,
3 oz Dry Vermouth
BAR CONSULTANT
in the Marseilles style, also has a strong tradition
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
Gabriel Dion
in the regional kitchen as a cooking ingredient
1 Dash Angostura Bitters
The Mixing Glass
and makes a particularly nice alternative to white
Method: Add all ingredients to an old fashioned
3313 Hyland Ave.
wine in pan sauces.
glass filled with ice and stir to combine.
Costa Mesa
20
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016
T H E B I Z : B A R TA L K
What’s Old is New Again ARTISAN. CRAFT. BOUTIQUE. MIXOLOGY.
Every time we use the terms “mixology,”
by Andrew Aoun
increased your flavor arsenal ten-fold. Superior
Many of us have used these words to define
“craft,” and so on, we are creating an unnecessary
the refined means of bartending that has firmly
rift between what lies at the core of what we
Tools of the trade are equally important for
rooted itself in the current incarnation of the
actually do; bartending. Let us embrace the revival
proper bartending as with any profession. A
hospitality industry. House-made syrups, fresh
of our craft while remembering its roots. Leave the
proper jigger will achieve consistency from
juices, unique herbs, exotic ingredients, and a
mixologist behind, and celebrate the bartender
cocktail to cocktail across all bartenders on your
renewed
and
within, and represent it the best way we can. If
team. A copper bar spoon or a crystal mixing
technique have elevated the simple bartender of
you’re a restaurant owner and looking to up your
glass will show guests that you are paying
old into the realm of cocktail Jedi master.
game in the bar, some research, diligence and a
attention to the details of your craft. Above all
small monetary investment can do wonders in
else, educate yourself and those around you with
redefining any beverage program.
passion. Read about cocktail history, make as
emphasis
on
showmanship
We have made impressive strides in going back to the classic methods that our bartending forefathers pioneered at the turn of the century.
differentiating
many drinks as you can and get out of your
The great Jerry Thomas, the bartending father of
improvement we can make is to commit to
comfort zone. Ascend to new heights, but do so
us all, would certainly be proud that his work
freshness. A Sunkist commercial juicer and a
while respecting the origins of the trade. The
from the late 1800s has found a new foothold in
case of fresh citrus will make immediate impact
quality of our craft, not the title, defines us.
modern day cocktail culture. Should we not
in elevating any bar program. Guest perception of
celebrate
this
renaissance
of
The
first
and
most
cocktails command better prices.
bartending
seeing your barkeep hand-juicing each piece of
enlightenment? Is it not proper cause to twirl our
fruit going into their cocktails will win your
moustaches with delight, that we have reached a
establishment instant credibility. Most prepared
new pinnacle of excellence in our drink crafting?
simple syrups are made with high fructose corn
Andrew Aoun is the wine and
Absolutely! Any reason for a celebratory beverage
syrup and have other fillers in the mix. Spend the
spirits manager for The Manzella
should be explored. With that being said, it is
extra preparation time and make your own with
Restaurant Group including
prudent to be humble in the midst of such
superfine sugar and water. Take that same syrup,
TAPS Fish House & Brewery,
newfound glory.
infuse it with an herb or a tea, and you have just
The Catch and Lillie’s Q.
ABOUT THE WRITER
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
MARCH | APRIL 2016 | great taste
21
THE BIZ: VIN
Keep it Fresh by Sonya Kelsen
ABOUT THE WRITER Sonya grew up in the restaurant business working under her father, chef/owner of a number of restaurants in Pto. Vallarta, Mexico. She made her way to California to follow her passion for wine. In her early OC career she managed restaurants and beverage programs and became a certified sommelier. Since then Sonya has had the honor of managing distribution, sales, and marketing for a number of wineries (Turnbull Wine Cellars, Alpha Omega Winery, Quintessa, Monteverro etc.) state wide and on a national level. Sonya is blessed enough to bring her years of experience under one roof with her husband Mike. In late 2014 they opened Colony Wine Merchant where they welcome guests as they were welcoming them into their home.
22
SUSHI MAY HAVE BEEN AMERICA’S FIRST
ask for the wine list and they say “we have
wine that is not fresh, you ask? A wine that is
EXPERIENCE WITH THE UMAMI FLAVOR
chardonnay, merlot and cabernet” out of a box --
bottled after barrel ageing then cellared for a
FOUND IN JAPANESE CUISINE. The unctuous
in the bus station no less. I know, I know -- there
time before it reaches it potential. A wine like
quality of fatty fish belly, salmon cheeks, soy
are sushi bars that have award-winning wine
that would pair perfectly with a dry aged steak,
sauce, miso glaze, fish flake and so on took us by
lists, but a 96-point Napa Cab or a barrel-
aged cheese, chocolate etc. These foods take
storm a few decades ago. But something was
fermented Chardonnay that made it on the cover
time to become what they are and pair with a
missing, the complete experience seemed to have
of WS is not going to cleanse the palate after
wine that does the same.
fallen short. Why did we not get handed a wine
getting hit with wasabi.
Sushi is all about fresh seafood, with some
list with our sushi list? Wouldn’t it have been fun
Pairing wine with sushi should be — must be
heat, some pop, some sweet, some spice and
to fill a box with an X alongside the wine you
— part of your program as a restaurant owner,
everything nice. Get fresh wines that put out the
wanted to enjoy with that roll? A refreshing beer
manager or server and must be demanded by the
heat, cleanse the palate, remind you of the ocean
or sake with sushi does make sense but what
connoisseur, consumer or casual diner. This is a
and put a smile on your face. Forgo the serious
about a vibrant Sauvignon Blanc or an off dry
simple process, I promise. Fresh fish (raw in this
reds and oaky whites and think Sauvignon Blanc,
Riesling to go what that spicy ahi roll?
instance) pairs with fresh wine. What do I mean
Pinot Gris, Albarino, Riesling, Chenin Blanc,
I love nothing more than supporting a local
by fresh wine? A wine that is bottled in its youth
Gruner Veltliner and have as much fun as those
family owned sushi bar but I just cringe when I
and meant to be consumed right away. What is a
guys behind the sushi bar.
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2016