Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 271 Tucson, AZ
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
The Best Choice for All Your Holiday Hams
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FROM THE EDITOR
CONTENT INSIDE 8 GREAT READS
THE BIZ 2 2 MARKETING
LA's Legendary Restaurants Teri Williams
4
Publisher, Proprietor
NEW TALENT Great Taste of Orange County
teri@great-taste.net
8
TERI’S TAKE
W
24
TECHNOLOGY Smart Decisions
26
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS
VIN In a Nutshell
Restaurants in the Orange County community are recognized for their milestone birthdays
e’re creeping up on 2017 and, at this time of year, we seem to reminisce about our gains and losses of the past. The industry is grieving the passing of Chef Greg Moro and we too mourn his loss. He led with love, passion and enthusiasm, and those qualities that he delivered and you continue to bring are what makes the industry great. Though he left us too early, he made his mark. He left us with great memories and all the more reason to hold our friends and family close. It’s important to embrace the good and the bad; to learn from them both and to celebrate the wins. Give the losses the respect they deserve, but tuck them away. Don’t dwell on what could have been. Make today great and keep the following in mind: Friends and Family are first. Life is Good! Life is Sweet! Life is Short! Everyone has a voice and everyone has an opinion. Celebrate yours! “Cheers to a new year and another chance for us to get it right.” — Oprah Winfrey Happy New Year!
Gift Card Sales
Meet the new faces contributing to the
& Chief Editor
Content
TRENDING 1 3 THE SANDWICH IS KING F E AT U R E S 1 4 BUILDING AN EMPIRE 1 8 MEET OUR CHEF DE CUISINE
D E PA RT M E N T S 6 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Di Stefano Burrata
7
SEA | FARM | TABLE Aguacate
9
PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH Delicata Squash
12
BUTCHERY Buying a Prime Rib
Zachary Geerson
RECIPES 1 9 HERITAGE PORK CHOP WITH BRAISED CARROTS AND PICKLED APPLES
19 19 19
19 20
GRILLED SPANISH OCTOPUS WITH ANGRY SAUCE
HARISSA BRAISED CARROTS
SMOKED PAPRIKA VINAIGRETTE
20
OCTOPUS SOUS VIDE
PICKLED APPLES
On The Cover GRILLED SPANISH OCTOPUS WITH ANGRY SAUCE The Grilled Spanish Octopus, found on the menu at Citizen Kitchen, is sous vide and then grilled. Succulent tentacles are served with Smoked Paprika Vinaigrette (Angry Sauce) and Pistachio Ragu. View the recipe on page 20 and other favorites by Chef Zach of Citizen Kitchen at Hotel Fullerton on page 19. Photo by Michael Rutt.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
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INSIDE
SINCE 2000
New Talent
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors
CHARLES IMBELLI
Katarina Bassil Chef Gabriel Caliendo Mario Del Pero
DIRECTOR OF
Linda Duke Eric Gustafson
CULINARY OPERATIONS AND EXECUTIVE CHEF, THE RANCH AT LAGUNA BEACH
Sonya Kelsen Sagi Rochman Taryn Sauer James Wood
ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
Charles Imbelli, Director of Culinary Operations and Executive Chef of The Ranch at Laguna Beach heads the resort’s culinary program, which includes the highly-anticipated debut of its signature restaurant,
PHOTO
Harvest. Thanks to Imbelli’s fifteen years of experience in the culinary industry, Laguna Beach’s newest hotel
Photography Editor
and restaurant will brim with contemporary California cuisine and cool coastal ambience. Chef Imbelli joins The Ranch LB after most recently serving as the Executive Chef/Director of culinary at Fundamental LA. Prior to this, Imbelli worked as the Executive Sous Chef for the Ace Hotel and Swim Club in Palm Springs, as well as serving on the opening team for the Ace Hotel in Los Angeles. Imbelli was recognized in 2014 as a Zagat “30 under 30” during his time with renowned Chef Marcus Samuelsson. “I’m thrilled to take on this new challenge to launch the culinary program for The Ranch at Laguna Beach,” said Chef Imbelli. “I am excited to meld my culinary styles, arts and influences with the unique
Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com
ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess 714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net
flavors and ingredients so prevalent in California; to create a menu that is a perfect, yet comforting, and complementary to the atmosphere and creativity of Laguna Beach.”
21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646
HARVEST AT THE RANCH AT LAGUNA BEACH 31106 S. Coast Highway Laguna Beach CA 92651
4
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net
INSIDE
New Talent TIN VUONG EXECUTIVE CHEF & CO-FOUNDER, BLACKHOUSE HOSPITALITY Although I’m from the San Gabriel Valley, I started my restaurant career in Orange County at Sapphire Laguna before leaving my position to become the Executive Chef and Co-Founder of Blackhouse Hospitality in 2012. In addition to Bluegold/LSXO, our team at Blackhouse operates six restaurants in the South Bay and Los Angeles: Abigaile (Hermosa Beach), Little Sister (Manhattan Beach, Downtown), Dia de Campo (Hermosa Beach), Steak & Whisky (Hermosa Beach), and Suburbia (Redondo Beach). When I finally returned to Orange County in late 2016 to open Bluegold/LSXO, it really felt like a homecoming, and it’s been a lot of fun catching up with old colleagues and friends in the area. Orange County’s dining scene has evolved quite a bit since I left (even though the Vietnamese food in Westminster is still some of the best I’ve ever had), and I’m excited to rejoin the community and bring my own global approach to Californian coastal cuisine to the table at Bluegold/LSXO. BLUEGOLD/LSXO 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, CA 92648
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
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Cheese Pick of the Month
IT RUNS IN THE FAMILY DI STEFANO BURRATA HAS A WELL-KNOWN REPUTATION as being the creamy cousin of mozzarella. It has a bit of a unique twist from a traditional mozzarella, in that it has a soft Italian shell made from fresh cow milk. The shell acts as a natural container for the delicious sweet cream inside that slowly flows out once cut. This Burrata has a long history dating back to the 1920s on a Bianchini farm in the town of Andria, Italy and has traveled all the way to Southern California. It is now produced by family-owned dairy Di Stefano, right here in Pomona who are dedicated to making Burrata. It is a perfect addition to any salad, pasta, prosciutto or fresh tomato. Great companions to try with this delightful cheese are a dry RosĂŠ or a Vermentino. After taking a bite of this rich cheese, there is no question why Di Stefano Burrata is the family favorite. For more information about Di Stefano Burrata or Di Stefano Premium Italian Cheese, and other delicious cheeses, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
6
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
INSIDE
AGUACATE by Gabriel Caliendo
AS YOU KNOW, THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY IS CONSTANTLY IN FLUX and every day delivers new challenges. One reoccurring challenge is product supply. Many things can affect supply and create issues: weather patterns, demand increases, seasonal growing limitations, herd thinning, disease….you get the picture. Most recently there was an issue with the avocado supply. California’s long term drought dramatically increased the cost of growing avocados and forced some to abandon their groves. Additionally, a beetle bark outbreak destroyed many avocado trees and some lost entire orchards. Of
VP OF RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT, LAZY
course, the demand for avocado has been multiplying for many years…who doesn’t love guacamole.
DOG RESTAURANT & BAR, CORPORATE
Adding to all of those headwinds is the seasonality issue. California crops peak in July and quickly
EXECUTIVE CHEF
taper off into early fall so at this time of the year, there are no California grown avocados available.
NICKNAME “Gabe”.
Most of the avocado supply then shifts to Mexico. Over 40 million pounds of avocados are imported
HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE
weekly from Mexico after the California season ends. With a shortage of supply and an increase in
25 years.
demand the Mexican growers and packers exercised their ability to increase price. By withholding
FAVORITES:
product for sale via a strike, the avocado market plummeted to just 12 million pounds crossing the
BEER Sculpin IPA.
border (a five year low), causing the wholesale price to go from around $40 a case up to $100 per
WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot.
case.
COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed Oranges with Vodka.
Restaurants were caught scrambling and some even faced with the possibility of not serving avocado. Difficult to do these days as guests expectations are high. Many explored the alternates of peeled processed pulp products or different avocado sizes. Eventually, a negotiation was made and avocados flowed over the border again. Prices came down as supply increased and all was back to normal. As we wind down this year and look in the rear view mirror, the avocado shortage will just go down as another hard fought challenge for restaurateurs in our nation.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
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INSIDE
Happy Anniversary In the restaurant business, arriving at the one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment.
Books
In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and lauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations on your milestone birthdays! Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.
50 YEARS AVILA’S EL RANCHITO HOW MANY OWNERS DOES THE RESTAURANT HAVE? Each of our 13 locations is owned and operated by a member of the Avila family. TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE POPULARITY AND LONGEVITY OF THE RESTAURANT? Mama Avila’s recipes, fresh ingredients and passion for flavor continues to connect with our guests year after year. Each location has the same commitment to faithfully recreate Mama’s recipes from scratch and made to her high standards. A member of the Avila family personally oversees each restaurant, guaranteeing the reputation the family has earned for treating customers like part of our family. Just as our history spans three generations of family members, we have also enjoyed three generations of devoted guests who have a deep connection to our food and they experience the warmth of our family’s hospitality. Our guests feel at home. We credit the
TAKE ME BACK TO THE GOLDEN AGE
longevity of our restaurants to the love and unity of our family, Mama’s authentic recipes, our pledge to serving fresh food made from scratch and a decision to have a member of the Avila family oversee each restaurant.
DO YOU EVER WISH YOU COULD GO
WHAT MAKES YOUR RESTAURANT UNIQUE? After 50 years, our restaurants are still family-owned and each
BACK IN TIME to experience the glitz and
restaurant reflects the vibrancy of its neighborhood.
glamour of old Hollywood? Now you can,
ARE THERE ANY ORIGINAL DISHES THAT ARE STILL ON THE MENU TODAY? Our recipes have been
with best-selling cookbook author George
handed down for generations. Many of our cooks have been with us for decades and are like family to us.
Geary in his new book L.A.’s Legendary
They have mastered Mama Avila’s authentic Mexican dishes so that no matter what location is your favorite,
Restaurants. This book is more than just
you can enjoy the same home-cooked, authentic food. Mama Avila’s Soup, a guest favorite, is made with
your average cookbook; L.A.’s Legendary
fresh made chicken broth, chicken breast and rice. Garnished with generous portions of avocado, tomato,
Restaurants
illustrated
cilantro and lime and served with warm tortillas, it’s Avila’s El Ranchito’s way of expressing the traditional
narrative filled with vintage photographs
artistry of real and hearty Mexican fare. The Carnitas have also become a favorite menu item over the
and menus of Los Angeles’ landmark
decades, thanks to the Avila family’s signature method of slow cooking chunks of lean pork marinated in
eateries.
garlic and citrus. Guests continue to find comfort in one of our most popular dishes - a crispy taco with hand-
has
a
richly
Each page takes you on a journey
pulled beef or chicken, made the old-fashioned way.
through Hollywood’s Golden Age, one
HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? During the summer, each of the 13 locations hosted a 50th
moment you are splitting an ice cream with
anniversary summer fiesta to celebrate with their loyal guests. The events featured fresh food, drinks, live
Shirley Temple at Pig ‘n Whistle and the
Mariachi music, 50th anniversary souvenirs, prizes and more. We’re also continuing the celebration with
next you are sitting in the same booth as
50th anniversary commemorative shirts and glassware.
Walt Disney at the Tam O’ Shanter. This
DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES OR EXPANSION? Right now, we are focused on
book is filled with over 100 of famous
ensuring that guests at all 13 of our locations have a great dining experience and want to come back again
celebrities’ favorite recipes such as the
and again with their kids and grandkids. We’re proud that the third generation of family members are
popular Cobb Salad from The Brown Derby
passionate about joining the family business. Who knows what the future will hold!
and even teaches you how to make a “hangover cure” known as The Zombie from Don the Beachcomber. Even though most of these locations are
Corona Del Mar, Costa Mesa, Foothill Ranch,
a thing of the past, L.A.’s Legendary
Huntington Beach, Huntington Park, Lake Forest,
Restaurants will always let us remember
Laguna Beach, Laguna Niguel, Newport Beach,
how old Hollywood ate, drank, and played.
Orange, Santa Ana, San Clemente, Seal Beach
To purchase this book and many others,
www.avilaselranchito.com
visit www.great-taste.net.
8
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www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
INSIDE
40 YEARS ROYAL THAI
Produce Pick of the Month
HOW MANY OWNERS DOES THE RESTAURANT HAVE? Throughout our 40 years we had 7 restaurants and currently have 3. WHERE WAS YOUR ORIGINAL LOCATION? Pico Blvd., West LA HOW MANY OWNERS DOES THE RESTAURANT HAVE? 7 brothers of Tilakamonkul HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DO YOU HAVE? 40-45 TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE POPULARITY AND LONGEVITY OF THE RESTAURANT? Our foods are authentic and exotic. ARE THERE ANY ORIGINAL DISHES THAT ARE STILL ON THE
MAKE CONTACT
MENU TODAY? Pad Thai Noodles
4001 W. Coast Hwy.
HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? On November 19, we
Newport Beach, CA 92663
had a Monks blessing followed by great food, music and Thai dancers.
1750 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, CA
DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES OR
9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, CA
EXPANSION? No changes. When nothing is broken we don’t try to
GM: Sam Tilakamonkul
fix it. No expansions are in the works. We are too old for more.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Sam Tilakamonkul
1 YEAR SLICE WHEN DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN? November 2015 HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DO YOU HAVE? 16 WHAT IS THE SIGNATURE DISH? Tomahawk Chop and Brussel Sprouts WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE DURING YEAR 1? Year one has presented its challenges with this location, but
MAKE CONTACT
DELICATA SQUASH
we've been able to survive with great word of mouth
8780 Warner Ave.
DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES OR
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Winter is well on its way and it is time to bust
EXPANSION? We plan to start an aggressive grass root marketing
GM: Natalie & John Sanchez
out your holiday décor, eggnog, and a perfect
campaign and plan to expand the brand in thriving culinary cities
EXECUTIVE CHEF: John Sanchez
time to try Delicata Squash! Chefs often refer to this vegetable as the winter Squash lover’s
1 YEAR GOLDEN ROAD BREWING
dream since it requires no effort to maintain it
WHEN DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN? November 24, 2015
squash.” You will be pleasantly surprised by the
HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DO YOU HAVE? 12
non-starchy, sweet flavor. Delicata Squash’s
DO YOU BREW ONSITE? Yes, at our Anaheim location and LA facility
name is actually taken from a Massachusetts
DO YOU SERVE OTHER BREWERY BEERS? No, we only serve
Indian word askutasquash, which means,
Golden Road beers
“eaten raw.” Delicata Squash is perfect for
rich flavor and creamy texture. After the first bite you will be taken to a sweet wonderland, its flavor often referred to as the “sweet potato
MAKE CONTACT
baking pies, casseroles and cookies. Baked in
special beer releases throughout the day and raffles
2210 E Orangewood Ave.
Delicata Squash rules in our test kitchen.
WHAT WAS YOUR PRIMARY FOCUS YEAR 1? Orange County has
Anaheim, CA 92806
Delicata Squash goes perfectly with a fine glass
a vibrant brewing scene and as our brewing operations ramped up
GM: Tim Olivas, Taproom Manager
of Beaujolais. This holiday season make
we just wanted to focus on connecting with our local community
BREWMASTER: Victor Novak
Delicata Squash your newest tradition!
and offering them a unique and fun destination.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Adam Levoe
HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We held a great celebratory event on November 26th with free food, bands,
the oven and combined in a spicy calabacitas,
The produce hunter has developed close
PLEASE DESCRIBE THE INTENTIONS FOR THE DINING
relationships with family farmers who are
MENU? We want to offer a dining option for every occasion. Our
committed
menu would best be described as California cuisine marked by an
personable production, and the propagation
interest in fusion cuisine (integrating disparate cooking styles and
and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable
ingredients) and in the use of freshly prepared local ingredients.
varieties. www.theproducehunter.com
to
sustainable
agriculture,
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
9
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Nature Doesn’t Make Bad Fats – Factories Do by Eric R. Gustafson into the food chain, where residuals have been detected. The system used to refine vegetable oils also produces “process contaminants.” These substances form during food processing — in particular, when deodorizing vegetable oils at high temperatures. The State of California is now reviewing n-Hexane, with an eye toward adding it to Proposition 65’s list of chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Recent studies have indicated that the extraction processes used in producing vegetable oils for cooking/frying foods can release various potentially unhealthy toxic agents. Survey respondents were asked to rate their awareness of the potential health risks associated with consuming vegetable oils on a 1 to 5 scale. According to the Coast/Ipsos research, roughly half of those surveyed indicated little or no WHEN IT COMES TO FATS, CONFUSION STILL
of the health risks arising from the manufacture of
awareness of potential health risks arising from
REIGNS, BUT THAT DOESN’T NEED TO BE THE
products like canola oil and palm oil.
vegetable oil processing. Overall, 48 percent were
CASE. Healthy fats like lard and beef tallow are
The Ipsos survey is nuanced, examining not so
unaware, 29 percent indicated they were “very
derived from an animal source; oils and shortenings
much the nutritional properties of the various
aware” or somewhat aware and another 23 percent
are derived from a vegetable source -- soybean,
sources of these oils as the potentially toxic
were in the middle. Millennials, men, residents of
rapeseed (canola), palm, coconut and so on. While
properties
in
the Western states, respondents with children at
vegetable oils can be traced back to nature, turning
refinement. It speaks to the purity, or lack thereof, of
home, those better educated and those employed all
these sources into food is a manufacturing process.
the products we consume.
recorded a higher overall awareness of potential
And the results don’t always promote health.
arising
from
chemicals
used
As the USDA notes, canola oil is used in frying
health risks.
Stroll through any supermarket and it becomes
and baking applications, and is an ingredient in
Squeezing oil fit for human consumption from
abundantly clear that Americans really like vegetable
salad dressings, margarine and a variety of other
seeds is complex and anything but natural. The
oils. Canola, corn, safflower oils and the like are
products: “Canola oil appeals to health-conscious
science is increasingly clear. With toxic additives and
remarkably popular. According to the USDA, “the
consumers because it has a low percentage of
carcinogenic compounds putting popular vegetable
dramatic success of the canola brand in North
saturated fat and is free of artificial trans-fats. High-
oils at risk, embracing minimally processed animal
America has caused the word ‘canola’ to become
oleic canola varieties have been developed recently
fats isn’t a fad.
synonymous with edible rapeseed in much the same
that are used in commercial high-temperature frying
way the word ‘Xerox’ is understood to be a
applications to replace partially hydrogenated oils.”
photocopy.” And, indeed, recent market research affirms this basic fact about American culinary life. According to a new consumer survey from Ipsos Research and
And that health message is the one that consumers have heard, as the survey indicates — to the exclusion of all others. But vegetable oils are highly refined, a process
Coast Packing (my company) Americans regard
that enlists chemicals to extract the oil from
vegetable oils as the “healthiest option” for cooking
the seed — including compounds like n-Hexane, a
and frying. At the same time, a majority are unaware
known neurotoxin that has found its way
10
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
INSIDE
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NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
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BUTCHERY ABOUT THE WRITERS
Brian Smith & Robert Hagopian Co-owners of The Butchery OC with locations in Brea, Costa Mesa and Newport Beach. www.butcherymeats.com
BUY A STANDING RIB ROAST (PRIME RIB) FOR THE HOLIDAYS WE ARE OFTEN LOOKING FOR SOMETHING
ribs on the loin (back) end where there is a larger
NICER THAN USUAL TO FEED A LARGER THAN
central eye of meat, and less fat.
USUAL GROUP OF FRIENDS AND FAMILY AT
3. We recommend that you have your butcher cut
HOLIDAY TIME. For most of us, a preparation like
away the bones, leaving just an edge connected,
this only happens once a year and it’s a special
and then tie them back on for you. When the roast
occasion… and an expensive occasion. A standing
is finished and rested you’ll be able to cut the
rib roast — also known as Prime Rib — is
string and have the roast ready for slicing without
impressive looking and produces flavorful, tender
having to cut around the bones.
slices of beef. At our shops, this is the most requested holiday roast, by far. The use of the word
PREPARING YOUR ROAST
Prime in the name of this roast isn’t about the
Salt your roast and let it sit at room temp for about
grade, it began long before the USDA Beef grading
two hours, less if the roast is small. Preheat your
system even came to be, and applies to it being the
oven to 500°F. Salt the roast again and place it
most expensive and desired cut. Many people
bones down in a roasting pan. Insert a meat
assume you need to get a prime grade roast because
thermometer into the thickest part of the roast. (If
of the name, however this cut has a lot of fat, so you
you spent the money on this roast buy a meat
don’t need to go with the most expensive prime
thermometer too, don’t wing it.) After browning
grade. The upper part of the very broad choice grade
the roast, about 15 minutes, reduce the oven
(target the top third) will give you a high level of fat
temperature to 325°F. Roast in oven until
and marbling (flavor) at a lower cost. If you prefer
thermometer registers 115°F for rare or 120°-
heavy marbling and a larger “eye” then Prime Grade
130°F for medium. (The roast will continue to
would be a better choice.
cook after you take the roast out of the oven.) You can assume 12-15 minutes per pound for cooking
12
SHOPPING FOR YOUR ROAST
time, and if you feel the roast is cooking too fast
1. A roast is typically sold by the bone. We
or slow you can adjust the temperature a little to
recommend one bone for every two of your guests,
compensate. Once the roast has reached the
which will allow for some leftovers. The entire rib
temperature you want, remove it from the oven
section consists of seven bones, so a roast could
and place it on a carving board. Cover it with foil
contain anywhere from two to seven bones.
and let it rest for at least 30 minutes before
2. The first three to four ribs (often called the
carving. Cut away the strings that were used to
second cut), from the end closer to the chuck
hold the roast to the rack of rib bones, and finish
(front), have more fat which many people prefer
the cut the butcher made. Remove the bones and
in a well-roasted piece of beef, and also contains
slice meat across the grain for serving, making the
the prized “cap”. If you prefer leaner, more tender
slices about 1/4-1/2 inch thick. Happy Holidays!
beef, then ask for the first cut, the three to four
Enjoy!
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
TRENDING
Sandwich Tips: Dos & Don'ts What makes your favorite sandwich your favorite? Some like a huge stack of meat, a little cheese, the usual condiments (mustard and mayo) and a little veg. Others stack ‘em high with pickles, coleslaw and any number of crunches. When you make your favorite, you probably just stack it up by wrote, with not much thought to the reasons for your construction and, obviously, some of us are better at it than others. Today, one of the fastest growing dining segments is the sandwich shop with pros concocting new combinations daily. They’ve been around — sandwiches, that is — since the 18th century but they’re still a favorite and a growing segment in the industry. The Earl of Sandwich is said to have invented the sandwich so that he could eat and not leave the gambling table. Thank him next time you’re savoring every bite while driving or sitting at the computer or television.
by Mario Del Pero DOS
sauce is used to flavor our “carne” and is paired
meat. It does not want you to have the meat on one
DO USE GREAT BREAD. Get fresh baked, small
with hand pulled Oaxacan cheese and avocado to
side of your mouth with lettuce and tomato and
batch, European style bread from your local
cool down the spice, creating a very Latin sandwich.
pickles and anything else, then taste some cheese
baker. The beginning and the end of a great
DO BALANCE YOUR SANDWICHES. At Mendo,
stuck to the top of the bread on the next bite. (Your
sandwich is the bread. At Mendocino Farms (MF),
we call it the “flavor triangle.” Each sandwich
we have been blessed to work with two great local
should have something savory, smoky or spicy;
DON’T THINK THAT PANINI GRILLING EVERY
bakeries (Drago Bakery & Rockenwagner Bakery)
something sweet, creamy or rich; and something
SANDWICH MAKES IT BETTER. Saying all
that are willing to create breads specifically for
bright or acidic. Most sandwiches or dishes in
sandwiches taste better grilled is like saying
some of the sandwiches we design. The bread can
general that come off as “one note” or boring are
everyone looks good with a tan (we know that is
be the key component of flavor and texture.
usually missing one edge of the triangle…or two!
not true). Some sandwiches are better with the
Don’t forget to consider your filling to bread ratio.
bread fresh, some are better with the bread
DO INTEGRATE VARIETY INTO YOUR BREAD CHOICES and choose your bread based on the flavor, transportability and/or heritage of the
brain and palate are thanking me right now!)
toasted and of course some are meant to be panini
DONT’S
grilled. Some sandwiches have a type of cheese
sandwich style you’re going for. At MF, we designed
DON’T FORGET THE ACID. Get creative with
that is better un-melted, while some sandwiches
a torta roll that mimicked the size and shape of a
how you can incorporate acid into your sandwich—
are better with the bread toasted, but the protein
traditional talero roll, but we added a little
it doesn’t always have to be from traditional
cold. At Mendo, we try to use a thoughtful culinary
sweetness to help us balance the spiciness of the
cucumber pickles or mustard. At Mendo, we realize
POV to determine how the sandwich should be
Mexican style Al Pastor Chicken sandwich we did
how important acid is to creating balance so we
served, and try not to leave it up to the guest’s
last summer. If you limit yourself to only one style
sometimes sneak it into the greens by tossing them
(sometimes less than knowledgeable) whim.
of bread, you are really limiting your creativity.
in a vinegar or vinaigrette, other times we will add
DON’T BELIEVE THAT SANDWICHES ARE JUST
DO GET CREATIVE WITH YOUR SANDWICH
vinegar to the spread, but mostly we love pickling
ABOUT COLD CUTS. Mendo has 22 sandwiches on
IDEAS! At MF, we find the most inspiration from
new and interesting produce. This season, we have
the menu at any given time and only one has cold
reconstructing entrees in a sandwich form. On our
an Asian style Chicken Meatball sandwich with a
cuts. At Mendo, we braise, roast, house-smoke and
winter, seasonal menu this year, we have a wine
lot of richness, so we needed to bring some big
grill many of our proteins giving us an enormous
braised short rib sandwich that we pair with
acid to the dish. We pickled a medley of Asian
amount of flexibility. This really helps us drive large
“French Onion Soup” onions and horseradish
mushrooms in a concoction of mirin, rice wine
dinner sales since we don’t get put into the category
crema spread. It’s a sandwich that deserves to be
vinegar and ponzu and they added just the right
as a cold cut place, but a viable dinner destination.
served as an entrée on a beautiful plate.
punch to the sandwich.
DON’T DEMONIZE BREAD AND CARBS. There
DO GET YOUR “ETHNIC ON”! Sandwiches are
DON’T PUT PRODUCE BETWEEN YOUR
are some really good gluten free breads out there
great vehicle to showcase a wide variety of different
PROTEIN AND CHEESE. OK—there are certain
(there are some really gross ones as well). Also,
cultural flavors. We spend an enormous time
circumstances where you can, but most of the time
there are some great wraps with tortillas, naan and
studying Latin and different Asian cuisines. One of
it is just a rookie mistake. At Mendo, we are always
flatbread. But, most interesting are some creative,
our most popular sandwiches is based on our chef
talking about texture and mouth feel, but trust me.
new innovative ways to do lettuce wraps that don’t
creating a Latin version of sriracha using a
Your brain talks to your palate that then talks back
feel like you are eating your way through a head of
traditional Peruvian pepper called Aji Amarillo. The
to your brain, and it wants the cheese to touch the
lettuce to find the protein in the center.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBERR 2016 | great taste
13
FEATURE
Building an Empire A Look at Multiple Concept Restaurants by Taryn Sauer
For those whose entrepreneurial hunger cannot be satiated with a single unit, multiple restaurant concepts can be a very rewarding endeavor. Within the OC restaurant scene, with such a condensed market, opening several brands under a single corporation can have its advantages. For the past two years, California has led the nation in restaurant growth and in 2015, we saw 2,025 new openings across the state.
“Being able to try new concepts and new cuisines for people is what gives me inspiration to
Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern (JFAT), said that a variety of factors influence a successful business path.
That’s one of the reasons why Alicia Whitney,
stay in the business,” he said. “Even if I can't
“At this point in my career I want to focus on
MCO (Multiple Concept Owner) and head of Prjkt
work on the line and create new dishes every day,
developing and growing a single brand that has
Restaurant Group, began to stake her claim.
I hope to create establishments that allow me to
long term legs and very broad appeal,” he said.
have that creative outlet.”
“To me, this is just as challenging as creating
“When I had an opportunity to preview a new building that was being built in the same
Whitney shares Chon’s creative drive and owns
shopping center as our existing restaurant,
and operates seven concepts stretching from her
SeaLegs Wine Bar,” Whitney said, “I realized that
landmark restaurant, SeaLegs Wine Bar, in
if I didn’t take the location, my competition
Huntington Beach, to concessions in Bolsa Chica,
would.”
and even to LAX.
multiple concepts.” For those with an appetite for more, each restaurateur has some solid advice: “I think, especially in California, that it’s an increasingly competitive market, so I would
In addition to the financial benefits of
Like Whitney, Russell Bendel of RB Squared
advise anyone interested in developing multiple
operating multiple concepts, MCOs are able to
Inc. found success along the California Coast,
concepts to stick with just two that somehow
create several unique dining experiences that
with Vine Restaurant & Bar in San Clemente and
relate to each other, but perhaps on different
cater to different communities and demographics
Ironwood, Cellar. Craft. Cook. in Laguna Hills.
price levels”- David Wilhelm
all within the invisible umbrella of a single
These restaurateurs are able to source from the
“Take it one step at a time. Have a great plan
company—just a few reasons why some of OC’s
same purveyors across each concept though the
that aligns with your vision and passion, and
restaurateurs have jumped into the game, salting
menus differ.
surround yourself with people who want the
the food scene with their expertise. Chef Jeffrey Chon, who owns and operates The Alley Restaurant & Bar in Newport Beach, has
“This helps us maintain consistency, because we know exactly what we are going to get,” Bendel said.
been able to expand his passion in multiple
But let’s be clear, being a MCO is no
concepts. His extended portfolio includes several
gluttonous venture. In fact, it can often make you
restaurants: Tabu Shabu Restaurant (opening
feel like you’re running a marathon.
soon in Huntington Beach), The Wayfarer and
14
Oak & Coal.
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
David Wilhelm, former MCO and founder of
same” – Russel Bendel “Let your passion drive you. If you can see it, feel it and touch it and you want it that bad, you can make it happen” – Alicia Whitney It’s clear: creating multiple concepts takes an adept mind; operating multiple concepts takes a strong belly.
FEATURE I am obsessed with SeaSalt Woodfire Grill — it is so cool, I am so proud of that restaurant. SeaSalt is a Santa Maria steakhouse with slowgrilled meats and hearty breakfasts — a cool vibe with a big firepit on the patio and a rustic feel. I love hopping back and forth between SeaLegs and SeaSalt…
they
both
offer
totally
unique
experiences. For the Bolsa Chica State Beach Concessions: • SeaLegs at the Beach is a one-acre beach club, a beachside version of SeaLegs Wine Bar where people can toast the sunset • SeaSalt Beachside Burger is a bona fide beach burger shack with awesome shakes • Beach
City
Provisions
is
a
curated
provisional store and sandwich shop that offers nightly dinners and entertainment to RV guests during peak season • Pacific Kitchen is a Baja-inspired surf menu with
A Restaurateur’s Perspective
acai
bowls,
Kean
coffee
and
sustainable seafood • SeaLegs LAX serves up California cuisine
ALICIA WHITNEY
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS/CHALLENGES TO
PRJKT RESTAURANT GROUP
HAVING CONCESSIONS ON THE BEACH? We are
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE YOUR
writing a playbook that has never been written
HOW
CONCEPTS? When I came back after working for
before. I can’t call someone and ask how their
ACROSS ALL OF THE RESTAURANTS? We just
three years in Vegas, I decided that I was going to
beach club restaurant, RV Park and four-mile
never take our feet off the gas pedal. It’s not easy,
make it a goal to open a new concept. I told
beachfront property did last year to help us craft
but we are committed to maintaining quality,
myself that if I did one thing every day toward my
our plan. The hardest part has been getting
consistency and building a brand that offers
goal, I could make it happen. Four months later, I
through the first year as we learn about the
unique, outside-the-box concepts.
was signing the lease for SeaLegs Wine Bar with a
location.
a
ARE YOU ABLE TO WORK WITH THE SAME
baby strapped to my chest. When I had an
presentation by California State Parks about the
PURVEYORS ACROSS THE BOARD? Yes, we do
opportunity two years later, to preview a new
Bolsa Chica State Beach opportunity. When we
work with most of our purveyors across the
building being built in the same shopping center
heard Kevin Pearsall, from CA State Parks, share
restaurants, with the exception of specialty items.
as our existing restaurant, SeaLegs Wine Bar, I
plans for the beach, we were floored at the
ARE THERE PLANS FOR MORE CONCEPTS IN
realized that if I didn’t take the location, my
opportunity and decided to go after it. The
THE FUTURE? Yes, we do have plans for future
competitor would. I then created a concept that
benefits are tremendous, we see great vision for
concepts and are working on a few right now
would be the opposite of SeaLegs WB, and would
Bolsa Chica State Beach and are thrilled to be
under Prjkt Restaurant Group. Our international
complement our dining scene in HB.
working hand-and-hand with California State
outpost is on hold right now. Stay tuned!
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS AND CHALLENGES
Parks to revitalize this beach. We’re focused on
WHAT WAS THE HARDEST LESSON LEARNED?
TO HAVING MULTIPLE CONCEPTS? It’s awesome
making Bolsa Chica a Southern California
Don’t trust everyone, and build a strong team.
because you can leverage buying power. On the
destination. It’s the most challenging, but I know
ADVICE FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN OPENING
other hand, we joke that it feels like a game of
this will be the most fulfilling as our legacy
AND OPERATING MULTIPLE CONCEPTS? People
whack-a-mole as we go from one restaurant to
project.
in this business have a sickness — they are
another to put out fires.
DESCRIBE THE BRANDING PROCESS FOR EACH
addicted to hospitality and can’t get enough of the
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS/CHALLENGES TO
OF THE RESTAURANTS/CONCESSIONS. HOW DO
game. If you want to be in this business, you
HAVING A RESTAURANT IN THE AIRPORT?
THEY DIFFER IN COMPANY CULTURE AND/OR
better love it because if you don’t love it — and I
Access in and out of the airport is difficult; getting
STAFFING PATTERNS? SeaLegs Wine Bar is our
mean REALLY love it — this industry will chew
purveyors into the locations in order to source
landmark location, otherwise known as my home. I
you up and spit you out. If you have to have vision
unique products is also challenging. The benefits,
keep this one as close to my heart as possible and
and passion, then jump in with two feet!
however, are awesome. I think the biggest benefit
you can still almost always find me here. The shared
WHAT IS YOUR NEXT BIG GOAL? I plan on
is having an international footprint for our brand.
plates menu has won multiple awards and the wine
building the Prjkt Restaurant group with a
People trying SeaLegs LAX as they travel
list is vast, including many limited selection wines.
superior
internationally, offers tremendous opportunity for
The Hamptons inspired décor is the perfect setting
management contracts as well as building our own
visibility and growth.
for brunch, dinner or drinks with friends.
concepts.
Initially,
we
were
invited
to
and has a killer wine bar comparable to the one in Huntington Beach. DO
YOU
MAINTAIN
hospitality
team
CONSISTENCY
that
works
on
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
15
FEATURE
A Restaurateur’s Perspective RUSSELL BENDEL
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS AND CHALLENGES
This helps us maintain consistency because we
RB SQUARED, INC.
TO HAVING MULTIPLE CONCEPTS? The benefit
know exactly what we are going to get.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE MULTIPLE
is we are not limited to doing one specific menu
WHAT ARE THE DETAILS IN YOUR PLAN TO
CONCEPTS OVER A SINGLE BRAND? We wanted
or culinary concept and we are flexible to cater to
OPEN A THIRD CONCEPT? We have not officially
to allow each restaurant location to have its own
the guests that frequent each location. The
created a third concept, but are looking forward to
personality and cater specifically to that
challenge is, it’s more work and not a “one-size-
this sometime in the very near future. We want to
neighborhoods’ demographic.
fits-all”, but that is the way we want it. I think our
learn from what people love about both locations
guests appreciate this and are also excited to
and continue to use that as our foundation.
visit our other concepts after hearing about the
DO YOU FORESEE ANY OF THE ABOVE
relationship.
CIRCUMSTANCES CHANGING? We strive for self-
DESCRIBE THE BRANDING PROCESS FOR
improvement in all areas and are always open to
EACH OF THE RESTAURANTS. HOW DO THEY
change when it makes sense.
DIFFER IN COMPANY CULTURE AND/OR
WHAT WAS A TURNING POINT IN YOUR
STAFFING PATTERNS? Our brand is very
CAREER WHEN YOU DECIDED TO LEAVE
important and we like to consider quality and
FLEMING’S IN SEARCH OF YOUR OWN PATH? I
value as our main focus. We consider each
had to make the decision to re-sign a new partner
location to be Wine Country inspired. There are a
contract at the end of 2012 or move on so I
lot of similarities to both Vine and Ironwood,
decided to create my own venture.
especially our culture. We employ people that are
WHAT WAS THE HARDEST LESSON LEARNED?
just as excited about our brand as we have been
You can’t save your way to success. You have to
from the start.
continue investing in the people and business to
HOW DO YOU, CHEF JARED AND YOUR
stay relevant and exceed the guests ever changing
MANAGEMENT
PARTNERS
expectations.
CONSISTENCY
ACROSS
MAINTAIN THE
TWO
WOULD YOU EVER ADD A FAST-CASUAL
RESTAURANTS? It all starts with us and we try to
CONCEPT? We are open to doing any type of
instill an eye for detail in our people every day. We
concept as long as it makes good business sense.
look at every shift as an opportunity to teach and
We definitely do not limit ourselves to only one
learn, and to find ways for improving at all levels.
style or segment.
ARE YOU ABLE TO WORK WITH THE SAME
WHAT IS YOUR NEXT BIG GOAL? Opening a third
PURVEYORS ACROSS THE TWO RESTAURANTS?
successful and admired restaurant in an area that
Yes, we use all the same purveyors at each location.
is in need of a great place to dine.
A Restaurateur’s Perspective
16
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
DAVID WILHELM
WHY ARE YOU CHOOSING TO GO THE SINGLE
JFAT INC.
CONCEPT ROUTE NOW? I think at different
WHAT SPARKED YOUR INTEREST IN CREATING
points in your life you are motivated by different
MULTIPLE CONCEPTS IN THE PAST? I found the
factors in determining what business path you
process of creating new concepts very satisfying
choose to take. At this point in my career I want
and I enjoyed the challenge that creating each
to focus on developing and growing a single
new brand presented. Most of the restaurants
brand that has long term legs and very broad
were geographically close to each other so the
appeal. To me, this is just as challenging as
notion of duplicating concepts in the same area
creating multiple concepts.
didn’t make sense from a business point of view.
WILL
WHAT WERE THE BENEFITS AND CHALLENGES
MULTIPLE CONCEPTS AGAIN? At this point my
OF OPERATING MULTIPLE CONCEPTS? The
entire focus is on the JFAT brand, but at some
benefits were that you could have several locations
point in the future I’m sure I’ll end up
close to each other in one trade area without them
developing something different and fun that
cannibalizing each other. The challenge in
would be close to home and allow me to tinker
operating them wasn’t that difficult in that once
with it. I would see it as a small place with an
recipes and service protocols are put into place the
eclectic menu that would serve as a place to
management teams simply have to execute.
hang out with friends.
YOU
EVER
CONSIDER
CREATING
800.644.7310
photo by Bรถhringer Friedrich
CHEF DE CUISINE
HE
by Taryn Sauer
* Y
N
THE H FULL OTEL ERTO N
RY
* SPO
Chef Zach Geerson
SO
B RED
“IT ONLY TAKES 30 SECONDS OF CRAZY
Or better yet, use a TV screen with a scene of
Since joining the team in November 2015,
THOUGHTS TO CHANGE YOUR LIFE,” Chef Zach
the ocean as a plate and top it with a perfectly
Chef Zach has been able to host a private dinner
J. Geerson says with raised brows, a decided
seared fish. (Just one of the many, wild thoughts
for The Culinary Institute of America’s family
smile across his face.
swimming inside Chef Zach’s head).
tour; redesign and rename Hotel Fullerton’s
It’s a quote from a movie that’s stuck with
“Think about how much that would increase
previous restaurant, “Griswold” to “Citizen
him—one of the many quotes he’s used to frame
the experience!” he says, as his gasoline-colored
Kitchen;” and conceptualize a second, in-house
his life so far.
tweezers shine against his chef’s whites, the
restaurant, “Journeyman’s” (opening by Summer
rainbow lighting just as colorful as his ideas.
2017); all the while occupying the position of
We’re seated at The Hotel Fullerton’s Citizen Kitchen and he’s been talking about continuously
Executive Chef and Food and Beverage Director
drawing inspiration from everything around him;
A PEEK INTO CHEF ZACH’S BACKGROUND
constantly absorbing the many culinary books
Chef Zach is the type who flourishes on creative
This flurry of changes is nothing new for Chef
he’s collected throughout the years.
release. The Hotel Fullerton has placed no
Zach, who whirl-winded into Orange County shortly after graduating from the C.I.A.
of the entire hotel.
Gesturing to the adjacent wall, he says the
handcuffs across his wrists; Chef Zach is able to
array of changing colors could be used for plating
utilize the kitchen to amplify his cuisine his way.
Originally from Fort Myers, FL, Chef Zach got
sauces. He wonders how he could reflect that
“I love it here because there’s a lot of
his start as a dishwasher at Cru and quickly
smooth wash of pigments across a dish.
18
F ST O
C
Photos by Michael Rutt
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
freedom,” he says.
ascended to sous chef after proving his limited
CHEF DE CUISINE knife skills—he used to carve sticks with his dad—
do everything even better.
during the restaurant’s reopening. It was here that he learned how to hold a chef’s knife and slice instead of, simply, cut. It was here
come. Chef Zach’s passion, scribbled on the
creativity, he’s still in the game to break some
pages of his wood-grained notebook, spills onto
rules.
every plate, elevating the palate to explore new
that he met Chef Harold Balink, who would influence his entire career and still serves as his mentor. But a career as a chef was never Chef Zach’s original intention. In fact, culinary school wasn’t
“There are things that you are technically not
His passion accelerated him through 18 months at the C.I.A, after which he served as MIT to Chef
flavor combinations.
supposed to do, that we’re going to do,” Chef
Chef Zach lives in La Habra, CA with his
Zach says. “Because if we don’t and somebody
fiancé and fellow Pastry Chef, Liv Prach, who
else does it, then I’m going to be pissed.”
accentuates his spirit and balances out his
either, but the process of creating masterful dishes overtook his senses and he let that guide him.
Surely, there are many more concepts to
And while he acknowledges technique over
And although, Journeyman’s is “shrouded in
tempestuous mind. At the end of his career, he
mystery,” it’s promised to be a time-stopping
hopes to open up a 12-seat restaurant and serve
experience and reflective of his contemporary
hand-made pasta to friends, family and locals
global cuisine.
who just want to come and hang out.
Scappin, whom he also worked under at Cucina in Woodstock, NY. “This is where I got my line chops; this is where I burned myself and cut myself,” he reflects. He reveals a thick scar at the bottom of his palm, a reminder of a night where he hustled, solo, during a dinner rush. After cutting his hand, he threw a bit
Heritage Pork Chop with Braised Carrots and Pickled Apples RECIPE BY CHEF ZACH GEERSON, CITIZEN KITCHEN AT HOTEL FULLERTON
of dirt and cayenne pepper into the gash, wrapped it with a towel and duct tape and kept going. “The pain was not as bad as the idea of failing,” he says.
CARROTS
Grill until 140 degrees internally. Let the meat
4.5 lbs
Carrots - whole
1 Qt
Water
rest for at least 5 minutes before cutting.
1/2 C
Harissa (house made recipe follows)
GARNISH
another aspect of Chef Zach’s dedication to his craft.
2 1/3 C
Orange juice
3
“I always did one thing that made me feel
1 1/2 t
Kosher salt
That same thought process is also evident in
Fig per plate Hazelnuts - candied and chopped
uncomfortable, that was a good way to grow,” he says.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Place all the
Grill three fresh figs with some olive oil and salt
It’s that mentality that got him all the way across
carrots in a large roasting pan. Combine the rest
and pepper about 1 minutes or until slightly
of the ingredients and add them to the roasting
charred on the outside and warm on the inside.
the country against the worries of his family. He told them the worst that could happen would
pan with the carrots. Cover the pan with foil and
be that he would have to live out of his car and then
place in the preheated oven and cook until
PLATE
go beg Thomas Keller for a job.
tender, about 2 hours.
Slice the carrots into long wedges and toss with
“I’ll just go ask for a job at one of the world’s best restaurants. No biggie,” Chef Zach says, chuckling. Needless to say, that was never necessary. He
the warm pickled apples. Place the mixture on PICKLED APPLES
the bottom of the plate. Smash the figs with the
3
Granny Smith apples - cored and
side of a spoon and place in three separate parts
sliced into 12 even wedges
of the plate. Sprinkle some chopped candied
worked with Chef Jorge at Tempo Urban Kitchen in Brea for a year, occupying positions in both the
3C
White distilled vinegar
hazelnuts over the carrot-apple mixture, place
front and back of the house.
1C
Water
the rested pork chop on top and serve.
3
Dried bay leaves
his list during his stay at Tempo (he wanted to be a
1 bunch
Fresh oregano
HARISSA
pastry chef at some point in his life), he said he
4
Garlic cloves
2 1/2 lbs Fresno chile peppers
never really felt like it was his restaurant.
1/4 t
Ground cumin
1
Small dried chile
So when the chance to set up shop at The Hotel
1T
Kosher salt
2 oz
Sundried tomatoes
Fullerton came across his plate, he took it—but not
1T
Sugar
1
Garlic clove
until he knew he’d have free reign to evolve the
Place the apple slices into a medium size
1/2 t
Turmeric
kitchen.
plastic bowl. Bring everything except for the
1/4 t
Coriander seeds
CONTEMPORARY: AS OF NOW
apples up to a simmer and strain. Pour warm
1/4 t
Cumin seeds
Now at Citizen Kitchen, with Journeyman’s in the
liquid over the apples. Let the pickled apples
1/4 t
Caraway seeds
works, Chef Zach has checked off his list in full: he
rest in the liquid on the counter for 1 hour and
1 1/2 t
Fresh lemon juice
wanted to be an executive chef, do pastry, work at a
then place in the refrigerator.
1 1/2 T
Extra-Virgin olive oil
1 1/2 t
Kosher salt
While he was able to check an achievement off
hotel, work in a small restaurant and then eventually open up his own restaurant and do
PORK
In a blender, blend all the ingredients together until
banquets and catering. Check, check and check.
We use Heritage Berkshire Pork seasoned with
smooth and reserve until needed. Holds well in the
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
freezer so if you are not using it immediately we
Season the chop liberally with salt and pepper.
recommended that you freeze it until needed.
When asked what’s next for him, he said the new list consists of all the same things, he just wants to
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
19
CHEF DE CUISINE
From the Chef’s Mouth FAVORITES:
HOW MANY UNITS DO YOU OVERSEE? 3 Banquet
CITIZEN KITCHEN AT THE HOTEL
KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL Pasta roller
Halls and 2 Dining Rooms
FULLERTON
COOKWARE Grill
1500 S. Raymond Ave.
SPICE/CONDIMENT Szechwan Peppercorn/Aioli
SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE I love
Fullerton, CA, 92831
OC RESTAURANT McCallans Public House in Brea
working with pasta, but every dish I make is my
www.hfullerton.com
DISH TO EAT Fresh Pasta
favorite for a moment.
714.635.9000
RAW INGREDIENT Fresh Herbs or citrus fruits
IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?
ESTABLISHED
FAST FOOD Carl's Junior El Diablo Burger
Restaurant Consultant or Designer. I love coming
May 2016
FOOD TV PROGRAM Chef's Table on Netflix
up with new concepts and designs.
HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 75-90
WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR
Dining Room
CULINARY STYLE Contemporary / Global / Inspired
Lunch: 11 am - 2 pm
JUNK FOOD Swedish Fish
HOURS
WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE
Dinner: 4 pm-10pm
HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? The challenge and girls
WHAT 3 WORDS DESCRIBED YOUR
Bar
MANAGEMENT STYLE Firm / Consistent / Love
Lunch: 11 am - 2 pm
CULINARY EDUCATION 2 1/2 years at the Culinary
Dinner:
Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY
4 pm - 11 pm
ADVICE FOR CULINARY STUDENTS Do it for love and keep your head down. Whatever you invest in
AVERAGE COVER
BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE
this work, the industry will give you back tenfold.
$24
KITCHEN Anyone can do it.
So, give it everything and you won’t regret it.
GRILLED SPANISH OCTOPUS WITH ANGRY SAUCE ON THE COVER By Chef Zach Geerson Citizen Kitchen at Hotel Fullerton
20
octopus on a pan and get ready to grill.
plastic container and store in the refrigerator.
Preheat a grill and drizzle the octopus with
OCTOPUS SOUS VIDE
olive oil, season liberally with kosher salt and
PISTACHIO RAGU
1
Octopus - 6 - 8 lbs.
ground black pepper. Grill over high heat
1
9
Medium Bay Leaves
approximately 2 minutes per side, until nicely
1 clove Garlic - thinly sliced
1
Large Bunch Fresh Thyme
charred on each side but not burned.
2C
Raw pistachios - shelled
1C
Extra-Virgin olive oil
3T
Extra-Wirgin olive oil
9
Ziploc bags
Medium shallot - thinly sliced
ANGRY SAUCE
Heat a sauté pan or small pot over medium heat.
Bring a pot of water or a Thermal Immersion
(SMOKED PAPRIKA VINAIGRETTE)
Add Extra-Virgin olive oil. Add the shallot and garlic
Circulator to 185 degrees F. While waiting for
3 1/2 T
Smoked Paprika
and sweat them for approximately 3 minutes, until
the water to heat, cut each individual tentacle
1 1/2 t
Sage
fragrant, but not browned. Add the pistachios and
from the octopus and separate the head. Put
1t
Oregano
cook gently for about 2-3 minutes until warmed
one tentacle in each of the bags with a bay leaf,
1t
Rosemary
through and fragrant as well. Season gently with
a small bunch of fresh thyme, and 2 T extra-
1/2 t
Red Chili flakes
kosher salt and a small amount of freshly ground
virgin olive oil. Once the water has come up to
1 1/4 C
Distilled white vinegar
black pepper and set aside, keeping it warm.
temperature, place all the sealed bags of
3/4 C
Canola Oil
octopus into the water and submerge them with
1/4 C
Extra-Virgin olive oil
GARNISH
a plate. Cook them for about 2 1/2 - 3 hours
2 1/2 t
Kosher salt
4
depending on the thickness of the tentacles.
3-4T
Water
Once the octopus is tender, (check by gently
Add Paprika, vinegar, chili, herbs, salt and water
PLATE
squeezing the tentacle and if it gives with a
to the cup of a blender and blend on medium-
Spread the paprika vinaigrette on the bottom of
tender touch, then it's ready) remove the bags
high speed to finely chop all of the herbs.
a plate, place the grilled octopus on top of the
from the hot water and place them directly into
Reduce the blender speed to medium-low.
sauce, sprinkle some of the ragu evenly on top
a bowl of ice to stop the cooking process and
Combine the two oils and then slowly drizzle
of each tentacle and then garnish the octopus
let cool completely. Remove from the bags and
them into the blender. Once the sauce comes
with the blood orange segments.
discard all the herbs and oil and place the
together, use it immediately or transfer it to a
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
Blood oranges segmented
Drizzle with additional olive oil and serve warm.
CHEF DE CUISINE
The Hotel Fullerton SITUATED AT THE BORDER OF FULLERTON AND ANAHEIM, THE HOTEL FULLERTON IS THE EMBODIMENT OF SOPHISTICATION AND STYLE; offering 250 luxurious rooms and suites, spacious event venues—and just a seven-minute ride away from the heart of Downtown Fullerton. Choose your destination: a short, shuttle ride strolls you to Disneyland for free, or call a lift to cruise through Harbor Boulevard. Pub crawl, anyone? The Hotel Fullerton is conveniently located near the base of DTF’s eclectic restaurant and bar scene. Looking to stay in, instead? The hotel also offers delicious dining options, making it easy to relax and never have to leave. Two restaurants reside within the hotel. RED offers your classic, American breakfast buffet—perfect for large groups; and Citizen Kitchen serves contemporary, global cuisine within an urban lounge atmosphere. A hidden gem; The Hotel Fullerton received the 2016 Certificate of Excellence by trip advisor and finished in the top five four-star hotels in Orange County. Amenities include, but are not limited to: a high-definition LED TV, coffee/tea maker, complimentary internet, In-Room Pay-Per-View Movies, WakeUp Calls, refrigerator and room service. Breakfast is served from 6 - 11 a.m.; lunch from 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Alongside the phenomenal room experience, The Hotel Fullerton houses function space that is perfect for weddings and special gatherings. Its 15,000 square feet state-of-the-art facility can be used by birthday parties, reunions and anniversary celebrations, and can accommodate up to 450 guests.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
21
THE BIZ: MARKETING
RECIPE: Gift Card Sales ABOUT THE WRITER
Linda Duke 25+ year restaurant marketing veteran, Linda Duke, is CEO and founder of Duke Marketing, LLC., a full service marketing firm specializing with restaurant chains and multi-unit retailers; and author of Four Star Restaurant Marketing Cookbook Recipes for Restaurateurs a marketing resource for restaurant operators. Learn to drive
sales
using
local
store
marketing
tactics.
Visit
www.dukemarketing.com for more information.
GIFT CARDS ARE ONE OF THE BEST WAYS
3. Large area businesses are great to target with
7. Trade gift cards with other nearby businesses
RESTAURATEURS CAN INCREASE SALES and
gift cards. Large employers in your restaurant’s
such as a local car wash and give a free car wash
get new people to try their restaurant and they
1-3 mile radius should be offered a special
to your employees and as a “Thank You” for your
are especially important during the holiday
promotion, like 10 percent off for buying gift
best customers.
season. People love a convenient way to buy gifts
cards for their entire staff. Selling 50, 100 or
for their friends and family. Last year, consumers
200 gift cards to a large area business with your
8. Sell gift cards on your website. One third of all gift
spent $23.6 billion on gift cards during the
company logo on it, at one time, is 100% profit!
card purchases originate from outside the state of
holiday season, with an average of $40 spent per
When those gift cards are given out at the
where the business is located. Your business will be
card, according to data from the National Retail
holiday, a large portion of those who receive them
more likely to get the sale from someone who is
Federation.
will visit your restaurant in the future and drive
interested in finding a local restaurant for their friend
traffic.
or family member if you have online listings. Make
INGREDIENTS • Gift cards with different or adjustable price
sure that your business is filed under the right 4. Encourage your employees to remind guests
neighborhood and there is the correct address
about the gift cards when they are ordering or
information on sites like Google Places, Yahoo Local,
• A goal for how many gift cards you want to sell.
paying. Have an incentive program that offers the
and Yelp. You can sell your cards on Amazon too.
• Phone numbers of various businesses that
employee a prize or cash for selling the most gift
increments to sell.
have purchased gift cards in the past and
cards.
potential businesses to trade cards with for crew incentives. • Gift card flyer and display.
opportunities
to
sell
your
restaurant gift cards at your local CostCo store. 5. Create a Sign. One of the easiest ways to let
This big box retailer is known for incorporating
customers know that you offer gift cards is by
local businesses as their partners and offer gift
using signage. The sign could say something as
cards alongside notable national brands.
DIRECTIONS
simple as "Buy a gift card today." Making use of
1. Sell the benefits of a gift card to your
things like easels and sandwich boards on the
customers. Make sure to let them know they can
weekend to encourage impulse gift card buying.
TIPS
pick an amount that is suitable for their budget
Tie balloons to the easel to attract attention.
• Gift cards should be reusable with your brand
and that their friends and family will love getting free food that they can choose.
logo on the front. Use magnetic gift cards, not 6. Display and create a flyer for gift cards. Have a gift card display near the entrance and at the
22
9. Investigate
paper, to track and report sales. • Make agreements with non-competitive
2. Remind customers about your holiday gift
registers. Create a flyer to put in all take-out
cards beginning in early November. Make phone
orders and use on table tents and check
• Offer an incentive to the purchaser of the gift
calls to the people and businesses that bought
presenters. Also, make sure that anyone who is
card to earn their own additional gift.
them last year to remind them about their
working the cash register reminds customers on
Purchase $100 worth of gift cards and earn a
holiday shopping.
their way out about your gift cards.
$20 bonus card.
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
locations to sell your gift cards.
THE BIZ: MARKETING
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
23
THE BIZ: TECHNOLOGY ABOUT THE WRITER
Sagi Rochman Better Chains Founder and CEO, Sagi Rochman, is an international hospitality owner and technology innovator. After honing his restauranteur career in Israel, Rochman moved to Long Beach and opened up Sachi Bar and Sababa. When he met Marty Cox, President and Founder of It’s a Grind Coffee Franchise, they decided to collaborate on what is now, Better Chains: a technology firm that simplifies restaurant operation systems. “Technology is the answer,” he said. “The restaurants must jump in.” Better Chains products range from applicant tracking systems, to training modules, to staff scheduling and more. For more information, visit www.betterchains.com
8 Ways to Make Your Restaurant Smarter in 2017 2016 HAS BEEN A TUMULTUOUS YEAR FOR THE
AUTOMATED PICKUP
RESTAURANT INDUSTRY. Food contamination
Customers expect not only speedy service inside
scandals. Joint-employer battles. Changing labor
a restaurant, but also when they take their food
EMPLOYEE LOYALTY APPS
laws. And now we’re hearing grumblings about a
to go. Rather than leave them waiting for the
With so much emphasis placed on making the
new restaurant recession. This year has been
host, bartender or cashier to pick up their order
customer happy and gaining their loyalty, some
tough.
and
more
restaurant operators forget about keeping their
Restaurant operators shouldn’t have to subsist
restaurants will go the way of Eatsa and offer
teams happy. With growing unrest over labor
on shaky ground, hoping to break even by year’s
automated ordering and pickup, so customers no
wage changes, disruptive turnover rates, and
end. As we move into 2017, it’s clear that we
longer have to wait.
more, I wouldn’t be surprised if we start seeing
process
a
payment,
of time before others take that step too.
I
expect
need to dig ourselves out of this quagmire. It’s
restaurants offering loyalty apps for their
even clearer that there’s only one way to do it:
WEARABLES
new technology.
Wearable technology presents an interesting opportunity in terms of real-time notifications
CONNECTED RESTAURANT RESOURCES
HOW TO MAKE YOUR RESTAURANT SMARTER
and engagements. Managers get called to tables
For multi-location restaurants and chains that
IN 2017
to handle urgent complaints. Servers find out
previously operated as individual units, I expect
When we talk about new technologies in the
about 86’ed items the moment they are nixed.
greater connectivity among them. Operators
restaurant sector, the focus needs to be on how
Customers complete their payments through
could use close proximity to other locations to
to make your restaurant smarter—both in the
their Apple Watches. There are a lot of time-
save money through the sharing of resources.
technological sense as well as the operational
saving possibilities here.
Schedules could be shared so that employees
one. The ultimate goal is to streamline
willing to “float” can work where they’re needed,
operations, automate systems, and provide an
KITCHEN SENSORS
regardless of location. And when one restaurant
even more enhanced experience to every single
We all saw what happened to Chipotle this year,
runs low on inventory, another one can send over
guest (and employee). Here are the smart
so tighter control over kitchens is an absolute
whatever excess they have.
technologies I expect will make a huge splash in
must. Cloud-connected, smart sensor containers,
the coming year:
utensils and storage already exist—it’s just a
A POSITIVE OUTLOOK
matter of bringing them in-house for real-time
With all the technologies available right now—
ANYWHERE, ANYHOW ORDERING
awareness of what’s happening in the kitchen as
and the prospect of some really innovative game-
Think about what Domino’s did with their
well as with inventory.
changing ones on the way—the restaurant
“AnyWare Ordering” push. Customers text or
24
employees.
industry can be more hopeful for the coming
tweet them a pizza emoji, use their Amazon Echo
ROBOT “REPLACEMENTS”
year. Greater time savings, improved efficiency,
to place an order, request an order with zero
I don’t know that robots will ever completely take
better communication and real-time insights are
clicks through an app and more. This is going to
over restaurants, but I do know that restaurants
crucial to any business’s success.
get big, especially with restaurants already active
already make use of robotics to automate
on social media and mobile devices.
repetitive tasks in the kitchen. It’s only a matter
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
And that’s what you get with the right technology on your side.
THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR
A Bartender's Guide To Surviving The Holidays
ABOUT THE WRITER
James Woods SALES REPRESENTATIVE, WINE WAREHOUSE NICKNAMES “JTB” or (“jimmy the brit” for short). HOW LONG BARTENDING OR PAIRING FOOD AND BEVERAGE? 20 Years. AWARDS & CONTESTS Golden Foodie (Best Cocktails, Hopscotch), OC Weekly People’s Choice Bartender Of The Year (Hopscotch). FAVORITES: BEER I am a sucker for a good sour beer but stick a Tennants Lager (Scottish) in front of me and I’m in happy land. WINE 2002 Lanson Gold Label (one of the best champagne vintages in the last 50 years.) COCKTAIL Last Word, although a good Aviation is right there with it. COCKTAIL CREATION The Buccaneer. IT'S HERE. EVERY YEAR, A LITTLE QUICKER
off?
work
prepared to stay later than your exit time. If your
THAN THE LAST, IT’S UPON US. There is no
Thanksgiving or Christmas day. Get your requests
Of
course,
nobody
wants
to
fellow bartender is in the weeds, do all you can to
hiding from the holiday season. For a bartender,
in early. First come, first serve. Talk to your bar
help them out. Being proactive about helping
that means kissing the loved ones goodbye and
buddies. You may be able to work out a holiday
each other out will quickly have your tribe of
telling them you will see them in a couple of
schedule that works for everyone. Leaving it up to
bartenders yelling “We are Sparta”
months. You have trained all year for these last
the manager might mean you get stuck with shifts
two months which I used to call the Bartenders
you don't want and then can't get rid of.
Super Bowl. It's a chance to make some major
STAY HEALTHY You’re exhausted, grumpy and all you want is a
MOOLA. However, it is not without recourse. Your
OVER PREPARE
cocktail or ten. As awful as it sounds, it is much
body will ache, you will live on a constant diet of
And I mean like, zombie apocolypse over prepare.
more important to take care of your body. With any
Red Bull, extra-large coffee and advil. Your brain
There is nothing worse than running out of citrus
number of viruses circulating around the
will turn to mush, tempers will flair and feelings
or bar syrup during a regular shift and during the
restaurant at this time of year, nobody wants to
will be hurt. Sounds like fun, right? Here are a few
holidays it is ten times worse. Taking the extra
get sick. Go to the gym, drink water, try to skip the
tips to survive the holidays without going bonkers,
time to make sure you have extra mise en place
booze where possible (I can’t believe I just wrote
broke or getting fired.
will reduce the stress level immensely.
that) and for goodness sake, STRETCH before
PLAN AHEAD
SUPPORT YOUR FELLOW BARTENDERS
What is your ultimate goal? Do you want to work
We are all in this together. We are a band of
AND IF ALL THAT FAILS
every shift you can, or do you want the holidays
brothers. Come in early for your shift and be
Well. I will leave that up to your imagination!!
going into battle.
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016 | great taste
25
THE BIZ: VIN
2016 In A Nutshell 2016 WAS AN INTERESTING ONE IN THE
ABOUT THE WRITER
As buyers in the Southland we can provide a
releases of some of the best scoring California
local experience for our customers without having
wines in years (2012, 2013). As restaurateurs
to compromise quality. We have the best of the
and retailers we saw those fly off the shelves. We
best at our finger tips, from San Diego to
also took advantage of those wineries that could
Sonoma. We can pick and choose AND support
CO-FOUNDER/OWNER, COLONY WINE
not move 2011 (which was panned by critics)
local,
MERCHANT
while everyone was waiting for the 12s and 13s.
breweries with little effort.
Oh boy, did we see some great deals on the 11s
products (and people) on your list or shelf will
HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE
and they were showing beautifully; old world in
make your staff proud to sell them and your
20 years.
style with finesse and more backbone than the
guests pleased to buy them.
FAVORITES:
latter vintages.
26
the next 5 years).
WINE BIZ. As consumers, we got to enjoy the
independently
owned
wineries
and
Supporting such
This year is ending on an unusual note for
Sonya Kelsen NICKNAME “Hey Boss Lady”.
BEER Depends on the day.
2016 also proved to be a year where beer
Americans. We have seen the tightening of purse
WINE Depends on my mood.
sales outnumbered wine sales in many So Cal
strings due to fear of the unknown. The end of
COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment.
“wine” bars. The craft beer movement is as
October through November, sales dropped for
COCKTAIL CREATION Silver tequila
exciting as the wine industry was decades ago
many of us selling luxury items such as fine wine
straight out of the freezer.
when California wine country pioneers made
and craft beer. We don’t know what 2017 will
their way up north and put us in the map. So
bring, but the sun will rise, the sun will set and
Cal breweries are multiplying much like Napa
rise again; we will see another harvest come and
wineries. Orange County has become the craft
go we will bid 2016 farewell and toast to the New
brewery hub with over 10 breweries in
Year. In a nut shell, we will be here to proudly
Anaheim alone (and 10 more slated to open in
support one another.
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2016
digital
catalog
advertising
web
studio
location
www.michaelrutt.com 949-322-7590 | michael@michaelrutt.com