NO. 28 2016
East greenland FĂŚldefangst Trapping
Ilulissat
Hotel Arctic Air Zafari
Kangerlussuaq mere end et pitstop more than a pit stop
Nuuk
Arktisk hovedstad Arctic capital
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5 704973 201635
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leder / editorial
Malerisk
land
Grønland er smukt og idyllisk. Det betager både indbyggerne selv og de, der besøger landet for første gang, med sine fjelde, farver og fjorde. Nordlyset, der danser om vinteren, og midnatssolen, der aldrig går ned om sommeren. Isbjerge over det hele og et rigt dyreliv. Hvis landet var en model, ville Grønland være at finde blandt topmodellerne. Særpræget og unikt. I denne udgave af bladet håber vi, at du selv kan fornemme det.
Vi er på Grønlands østkyst med en ung fotograf. Vi er i Kangerlussuaq blandt moskusokser og ved indlandsisen. Vi flyver over isfjeldene ved Ilulissat, og vi har været langt oppe i det nordøstlige Grønland for at se, hvad en dygtig naturfotograf har fanget i sine fælder.
God fornøjelse med læsningen. Avi & Mads Udgiver & Redaktør
Picturesque
country Greenland is beautiful and idyllic. It enchants its own inhabitants and those who visit the country for the first time with its fells, colours and fjords. The Northern lights dance in the winter and the sun never sets in the summer. There are icebergs everywhere and abundant wildlife. If the country were a model, Greenland would be one of the top models. Distinctive and unique. In this issue of our magazine, we hope you can feel this.
We go to the east coast of Greenland with a young photographer. We are in Kangerlussuaq amid musk-oxen and we are at the ice sheet. We fly over the icebergs in Ilulissat and far up in Northeast Greenland we see what a skilled nature photographer has caught in his traps.
www.eastgreenland.com
M
emories of Greenland
Bring back
Galleri Roar Christiansen Et unikt udvalg af grønlandsk kunst, litografier, kunsttryk, plakater, akvareller, træsnit, kobberstik, linoliumstryk, postog kunstkort. Se en del af vores udvalg på www.galleri.gl
Happy reading. Avi & Mads
På gensyn i et galleri af en anden verden.
Publisher & Editor
.com
A R T
O F
Gallery Roar Christiansen A unique selection of Greenlandic art, lithographs, prints, posters, watercolours, wood carvings, copper engravings, linocuts, postand art cards. See some of our selection on www.galleri.gl See you in a gallery of another world.
G R E E N L A N D
Tlf +299 32 13 93 . Fax +299 32 23 93 Tuapannguit 8 . Box 348 . 3900 Nuuk e-mail: roar.c.galleri@greennet.gl
indhold / contents
Lisa Kreutzmann - En usleben juvel - A rough diamond
t t t t
En fotograf på Østkysten
26-29 t t t t t
NO. 28 2016
greenland today
n in the snow, listen to the silence, and enjoy the greenish hue orthern lights. A trip that combines winter, great nature and – the vast Ice Cap, Ilulissat Icefjord, and thousands of sled dogs. Book your dream tour online www.greenland-travel.com/7040 Tel. (+45) 33 13 10 11
ng weekend out of the ordinary
n Ilulissat! Clear your schedule and recharge your batteries in pecial way. Many possibilities await you, from hiking or dog g, sailing among icebergs, to exploring the town and restaurants.
Arktisk hovedstad med vokseværk Arctic capital with growing pains
East grEEnland FældEFangst trapping
Book your dream tour online www.greenland-travel.com/9015 Tel. (+45) 33 13 10 11
KangErlussuaq mere end et pitstop more than a pit stop
American flowers in Greenland
36-38
nuuK
arKtisK HovEdstad arctic capital
2016
Forside foto / Cover photo: Gunilla Lindh
DKK 49,95
www.greenlandtoday.com
5 704973 201635 20/10/16 16.14
greenland today
Oversættelse/Translation Maria Holm, Jesper Kunuk Egede
Tryk/Printing PrintConnect Aps
Ansv. redaktør/Editor in Chief Mads Nordlund editor@greenlandtoday.com
Grafisk tilrettelægning/Layout Aviaq Nordlund Mørch (red./ed.) aviaq@greenlandtoday.com
ISSN 1902-8857
greenland today
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M i l j ø mær
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Udgiver/Publisher Aviaq Nordlund Mørch
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Travel: greenland-travel.com · Hotel Arctic: hotelarctic.com
HotEl arctic air ZaFari
NO. 28
ason opens up new worlds and ged individual and inspiring ure. With an experienced tour t country. Look forward to
ilulissat
Lisa Kreutzmann - En usleben juvel 06 Kirker for spæk 10 180 meter is 16 Bøger 22 Det sker i Kalaallit Illuutaat 23 The Glacier Shop 24 Arktisk hovedstad med vokseværk 26 En fotograf på Østkysten 32 Amerikanske blomster i Grønland 36 Kangerlussuaq mere end blot et pitstop 40 Fældefangst i Nationalparken 48 Som at bo i fjeldet 58 Kulinarisk ambassadør 62 Krabbeballotine med krabbebouillon 64 Grønlands største pagga 66
Amerikanske blomster i Grønland
No
ure February-April 2017 1,555 EUR
A photographer on the east coast
t t t t
32-34
m in on snow and ice
ure January-April 2017 1,810 EUR
6-8
4041
0820 Tryksag
Skribenter/Writers Martine Lind Krebs, Gunilla Lindh, Toke Brødsgaard, Mads Nordlund, Jesper Kunuk Egede, greenland today
Annoncer/Advertising aviaq@greenlandtoday.com +45 4043 7370 nh@rosendahls.dk +45 7610 1156
Air Zafari
- 180 meter is - 180 meters of ice
16-19
Grønlands største pagga Greenland’s biggest pagga
66
Lisa Kreutzman - A rough diamond Churches for blubber 180 meters of ice Books Events at Greenlandic House The Glacier Shop Arctic capital with growing pains A photographer on the east coast American flowers in Greenland Kangerlussuaq is much more than just a pit stop Trapping in the National Park Like living out in the fells Culinary ambassador Crab ballotine with crab bouillon Greenland’s biggest pagga
08 10 19 22 23 24 29 32 38 44 54 60 63 65 66
Foto/Photo Irene Jeppson, greenland today, Mads Nordlund, Lars Holst Hansen, Toke Brødsgaard, Mads Pihl / Visit Greenland, Sisimiut Museum, Martine Lind Krebs, Qaasuitsup Kommunia, Ken Bower, Gunilla Lindh, Hans Jørgen Mørch, Stine Selmer Andersen, Evy Aller Holding, Dida Heilmann
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Nuna Law Firm, PO Box 59, 3900 Nuuk, Greenland. Tel: (299) 32 13 70 www.nuna-law.gl
kunst / art
En usleben juvel Dyr og mennesker mødes i Lisa Kreutzmanns fantasifulde univers, der ofte henter inspiration i naturen og den hverdag, hun lever i Tekst & foto: Mads Nordlund
Lisa Kreutzmann, 34 år, kommer fra den lille bygd Kangaatsiaq med 500 indbyggere i Diskobugten, hvor hun stadig bor. Indimellem er hun væk i længere tid som i år, hvor hun i løbet af sommeren har arbejdet på Ilulissat Kunstmuseum, og som den næste opgave skal male nogle af sine fabelagtige dyr på væggen af Socialpædagogisk Seminarium. Hun har også i længere perioder boet både i Nuuk og Danmark, hvor hun er uddannet på kunst- og animationsskole. Hun har gennem sin karriere udstillet flere steder i Grønland og desuden i Alaska, Danmark og Sverige. 6
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Denne sommer har hun boet i Ilulissat Kunstmuseums lille kunstnerindkvartering, mens hun har passet museet og butikken og selv har en udstilling på første sal. Her møder hun greenland today med et stort varmt smil, som alle besøgende modtages med. Hendes glade væsen virker smittende, og hendes sprudlende positive energi kommer blandt andet til udtryk ved, at hun går nynnende og stille syngende rundt i lokalerne under interviewet, og indimellem arbejder på det næste værk, når der ikke er besøgende på museet. I øjeblikket er de igangværende værker en række akvareller, som hun har
kommet salt på. Det giver nogle sjove mønstre og former ligesom snekrystaller. Dermed har hun en baggrund, som hun så finder et motiv til. - Jeg har altid tegnet, lige siden jeg var lille, fortæller Lisa. - Jeg begyndte først at male på Kunstskolen i Nuuk i 1999, hvor jeg lærte teknikkerne. Siden har jeg ikke kunne lade være med at male, smiler hun. Det meste af hendes familie bor i Kangaatsiaq, hvor hun bruger en stor del af sin tid på at male og tegne. I fritiden henter hun inspiration i naturen, og hun elsker at gå ture og ro i kajak.
- Jeg kan godt lide at være alene, selvom det også kan være lidt ensomt at arbejde for sig selv, forklarer hun. Isbjørnen For ni år siden mødte Lisa en sulten isbjørn i Kangaatsiaq, og lige siden har hun elsket at tegne og male Grønlands vilde dyr. - Jeg stod kun ca. 30 meter fra isbjørnen og kunne både se og lugte det smukke dyr. Jeg forsøgte også at tage et billede, men jeg rystede for meget. Jeg var selvfølgelig bange men også meget glad, siger hun om den intense oplevelse. Hun maler også mennesker, men kun ud fra sin egen fantasi. Hun vil ikke lave portrætter af rigtige personligheder, forklarer hun.
Den igangværende udstilling er blandt andet malet ovenpå nogle gamle børnemalerier, der var smidt ud. Hun kan også lide at arbejde med drivtømmer, som hun finder på stranden i Kangaatsiaq. Ellers bruger hun både akvarel og akryl og alle former for tegnematerialer. Fremtiden Lisa Kreutzmann arbejder meget og lever af at være kunstner. Hun har lavet flere udsmykningsopgaver rundt omkring i Grønland. Hun har sit eget lille hus i Kangaatsiaq, hvor hun også har sin elskede kajak. - Jeg vil altid vende hjem, når jeg har fri, fortæller hun. Hun er både på Facebook og mail, men ser det kun engang imellem.
- Nok ikke så tit, siger hun og smiler igen. Denne kreative uslebne juvel fra Grønland ville i USA eller Europa nå langt via en agentaftale med et kendt galleri. Men penge er ikke så vigtigt, forklarer hun, bare hun kan betale sine regninger til det lille hus i Kangatsiaaq og få tid til familien, naturen og til at sejle i kajak. Med sin produktivitet og talent er Lisa Kreutzmann stille og roligt ved at etablere sig som en af Grønlands største nulevende kunstnere. Helt uden selv at vide det og helt uden at de sidste mange års succes kan mærkes på den venlige og beskedne kunstner.
Unika Crafts Glass Art
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Intaleeqqap Aqq. 12 Nuuk Tlf.: +299 58 31 09
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Workshop Visit my workshop and see how the glass art are created
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28 2016
greenland today
7
kunst / ART
A rough diamond Animals and people meet in Lisa Kreutzman’s imaginative universe, which often finds inspiration in nature and her everyday life Text & photo: Mads Nordlund
Lisa Kreutzmann, 34 years of age, is from the little village of Kangaatsiaq, Disko Bay, with 500 inhabitants and this is where she lives today. Sometimes, she is away for a longer period, like this year where she spent the summer working at Ilulissat Museum of Art and, like her next job, where she is to paint some of her fantastic animals on the wall of The College of Social Education. She has also spent longer periods in both Nuuk and Denmark, where she attended the art and animation school. Throughout her career she has exhibited in several places in Greenland and also in Alaska, Denmark and Sweden. This summer, she stayed at Ilulissat Museum of Art’s little artist retreat while she tended to the museum and the shop and exhibited her own work on the first floor. Here, she meets greenland today with the big, warm smile with which she greets all the visitors. Her happy nature is contagious and her bubbling, positive energy is reflected, among other things, in the way she walks humming and quietly singing through the rooms during the interview, occasionally working on the next piece when there are no visitors in the museum. At the moment, she is working on a series of water colours on which she has just sprinkled salt. This makes peculiar patterns and shapes like snow crystals which form the background to which she finds a motif. - I have always drawn, ever since I was little, says Lisa. - I started painting at art school in Nuuk in 1999, where I learned the techniques. Since then, I haven’t stopped painting, she smiles. Most of her family live in Kangaatsiaq, where she spends a great deal of her time painting and drawing. In her spare time, she finds inspiration in nature and she loves walking and kayaking. - I like being alone, although it can be 8
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a little lonely, working on your own, she explains. The polar bear Nine years ago, Lisa met a hungry polar bear in Kangaatsiaq. Since then, she has loved painting and drawing Greenland’s wild animals. - I stood just 30 metres from the polar bear and I could smell the beautiful animal as well as see it. I also tried to take a picture, but I shook too much. Of course I was afraid, but also happy, she says about the intense experience. She paints pictures of people too, but only from her imagination. She does not want to paint portraits of real people, she explains. Some of the pieces in the present exhibition are painted over some old children’s paintings that had been thrown out. She also likes working with driftwood, which she finds on the beach at Kangaatsiaq. Otherwise, she uses both water colours and acrylics and all kinds of drawing materials. The future Lisa Kreutzmann works a lot and makes her living as an artist. She has carried out commissions in Greenland. She has her own little house in Kangaatsiaq, where she also has her beloved kayak. - I will always come back home when I have time, she says. She is on Facebook and e-mail, but only checks them occasionally. - Probably not often enough, she says and smiles again. This rough, uncut, creative diamond from Greenland would go far in the USA or Europe if she had an agent’s agreement with a known gallery. But money is not that important, she explains, as long as she can pay the bills for the little house
in Kangatsiaaq, and have time for her family, for nature and for kayaking. Lisa Kreutzmann’s talent and productivity are steadily establishing her as one
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of Greenland’s greatest contemporary artists. She is not herself aware of this and the many years of success have not marked this friendly and modest artist.
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Se adgangskravene til uddannelserne på hjemmesiden : www.maritim.gl Du er altid velkommen til at kontakte os for yderligere information.
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28 2016
Tlf.: +299 348787 E-mail: maritim@maritim.gl
greenland today
9
kultur / culture
Kirker for spæk
De grønlandske kirkers historie er fyldt med skibsforlis og drama, men det er også fortællingen om ressourcestærke menigheder, der selv købte og betalte deres kirker… med spæk! Tekst: Martine Lind Krebs
Genbrugskirke Det var ikke unormalt, at kirker og kapeller blev flyttet fra et sted til et andet, i takt med at noget nyt blev bygget. For eksempel er der et kapel i Sydgrønland, der har stået i fire forskellige bygder. Det samme gælder kirken i bygden Itilleq ved Sisimiut. Den stod oprindeligt i det gamle Thule, hvor den var blevet bygget i 1930. Menigheden i Qaanaaq havde brugt seks år på at samle ind til betaling af kirken. For eksempel donerede nogle af menighedens fangere 13 ræveskind til sagen. Men i 1954 blev Thules befolkning tvangsflyttet til det nuværende Qaanaaq, hvor der blev bygget en ny og større kirke. Derfor blev Thule-kirken i 1960-62 bræt for bræt flyttet til Itilleq, hvor den er i brug endnu. 10
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Recycled church It was not unusual that churches and chapels were moved from one place to another as new ones were built. For example, there is a chapel in South Greenland that has been in four different villages. The same applies to the church in the village of Itilleq near Sisimiut. It was originally located in old Thule, where it had been built in 1930. The congregation in Qaanaaq had spent six years collecting funds to pay for the church, e.g. hunters in the congregation donated 13 Arctic fox skins. But in 1954, the inhabitants of Thule were forced to move to what is now Qaanaaq, where a new and bigger church was built. So in 1960-62, the church in Thule was moved plank by plank to Itilleq, where it is still used today.
t t t t t
Foto/Photo: Sisimiut Museum Foto/Photo: Mads Pihl / Visit Greenland
Churches for blubber The history of churches in Greenland is filled with shipwrecks and drama, but there are also stories of resourceful congregations that bought and paid for their own churches... with whale blubber! Text: Martine Lind Krebs
Blubber for a church 1771 was a lucky year for the hunters in Sisimiut. They caught four large whales; enough to fill 60 barrels with blubber and that was sufficient to order and pay for the church they dreamt of. Blubber was in demand in the towns of Europe where whale oil was used as fuel in the towns’ street lights. In the letter written by the congregation in Sisimiut to the Trading Company in Denmark, it said that if there was not enough blubber to pay for the church, they only had to ask for more. The church arrived as an assembly kit together with a Danish carpenter, but an epidemic delayed the work assembling the church, so it was first opened and consecrated in 1775. The weathercock still bears witness to the delay. It carries the inscription 1773. Bethel Church in Sisimiut is Greenland’s oldest intact church building. It no longer functions as a church; instead it is part of Sisimiut Museum, which is working on restoration of the church so that it can function as a museum exhibition of religion in the 1700s and of the history of the building of the church. 28 2016
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t t t t t
Spæk for en kirke Året 1771 var et heldigt år for fangerne i Sisimiut. Fire store hvaler lykkedes det dem at fange. Nok til at fylde 60 tønder med spæk, og det var nok til at bestille og betale for den kirke, som de drømte om. Spæk var en eftertragtet vare i de europæiske byer, der brugte hvaltran som olie i byens gadelamper. I brevet, som menigheden i Sisimiut skrev til Handelskompagniet i Danmark, tilføjede de, at hvis der ikke var nok spæk til at betale for kirken, skulle man bare bede om mere. Kirken ankom som samlesæt sammen med en dansk tømrer, men en epidemi forsinkede arbejdet med at samle kirken, der blev indviet i 1775. Vejrhanen vidner i dag stadig om forsinkelsen. Den bærer årstallet 1773. Bethelkirken i Sisimiut er Grønlands ældste intakte kirkebygning. Den fungerer ikke mere som kirke, men er i dag en del af Sisimiut Museum, der er i færd med at restaurere kirken, så den kommer til at fungere som museumsudstilling om religionsmødet i 1700-tallet og om bygningens historie.
Kilder/Sources: Nunatsinnioqaliffiit/Grønlands kirker/Greenland’s Churches, by: Otto Sandgreen, published by Otto Sandgreens Forlag, 1991 Da Grønland fik en kirke som samlesæt/When Greenland got a Church in an Assembly Kit by: Harald Nielsen og/and Jørgen Nørgaard Pedersen, Danmission, juli/July 2014 Grønland – mægtig og afmægtig/Greenland, Powerful and Powerless, by: Marianne Krogh Andersen, Gyldendal 2008 Den Grønlandske Kirke i Tusind år/1000 Years of the Church in Greenland, by: Jørgen Taagholt, Tidsskriftet Grønland, 1994 Christine Løventoft, museumsleder/curator, Sisimiut Museum og / and Kangerlussuaq Museum Morten Nornild, stiftskontorchef/diocesan office manager, Grønlands bispeembede/Episcopate of Greenland Karen Ørsted’s første og andet testamente og gavebrev/first and second testament and deed of gift, 1775 og/and 1778
Kristendommen i Grønland Kristendommen blev introduceret i Grønland i 1700-tallet. Den dansk-norske præst Hans Egede kom til Grønland i 1721, hvor han grundlagde kolonien Godthåb, der hvor Nuuk ligger i dag. Præster fra den tyske brødremission Herrnhut kom til nogle år senere og grundlagde også en kirke i Grønland. Inden udgangen af 1700-tallet var der kirker i alle de grønlandske byer på vestkysten, og langt de fleste inuitter lod sig døbe i løbet af 1700- og 1800-tallet. De sidste steder, der blev omvendt til kristendommen, var Østgrønland og det nordligste Grønland. Man regner med, at den sidste tilhænger af den oprindelige inuit-religion lod sig døbe i Thule i 1934. I dag er 94,5% af den grønlandske befolkning medlemmer af kirken.
Christianity in Greenland Christianity was introduced to Greenland in the 1700s. Hans Egede, a Danish-Norwegian minister of the church, came to Greenland in 1721 and founded the Godthåb colony, there where Nuuk is located today. Ministers from the German Moravian Church arrived some years later and also founded a church in Greenland. By the end of the 1700s there were churches in all the towns on the west coast and during the 1700s and 1800s almost all Inuit were being baptized. The last places to be converted to Christianity were East Greenland and northernmost Greenland. It is thought that the last believers of the original Inuit religion were baptized in Thule in 1934. Today, 94.5% of the people in Greenland are members of the church. 12
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Jomfruen betalte kirken Karen Ørsted havde aldrig sat sine ben i Grønland. Alligevel er det hende, der har betalt for den kirke i Nuuk, som senere hen skulle blive til Grønlands domkirke. Det er lidt et mysterium, hvorfor Karen Ørsted valgte at testamentere sin arv til at bygge en kirke og nogle skolehuse i Nuuk – det er blevet antydet, at hun måske havde haft en affære med Hans Egedes søn, Poul Egede. I hvert fald havde de to mødt hinanden i Danmark. Karen Ørsted var aldrig blevet gift og boede hos sin søster, der var gift med provsten i Haderup ved Ribe.
I sit testamente og gavebrev fra 1775 skrev Karen Ørsted, at indbyggerne i Grønland kom hende for »som en lampe der behøver olie«. For de 2500 rigsdaler fra Karen Ørsteds gavebrev blev Vor Frelser Kirke i Nuuk bygget. Navnet på kirken havde hun betinget sig. I modsætning til mange andre kirker blev den ikke bestilt som samlesæt, men blev bygget op i sten, der senere er blevet erstattet med træ. Kirken stod færdig i 1849. I 1993 blev den udråbt til Grønlands domkirke, da Grønlands stift blev oprettet.
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Foto/Photo: Martine Lind Krebs
The maiden paid for the church Karen Ørsted had never set be »like a lamp that needs foot in Greenland. And yet oil«. Our Saviour’s Church in she paid for the church in Nuuk was built for the sum Nuuk which would later beof 2,500 rigsdaler from Kacome Greenland’s cathedral. ren Ørsted’s legacy. She had Why Karen Ørsted chose to stipulated that the name bequeath a legacy to build a of the church be Our Savichurch and some schoolhouour’s Church. In contrast ses in Nuuk is something of a to many other churches, mystery. It has been suggethis was not ordered sted that she may have had as an assembly kit. an affair with Hans Egede’s Instead, it was built son, Poul Egede. In any up in stone, which event, the two had met in was later replaced Denmark. Karen Ørsted never with wood. The married and she lived with church was finished her sister, who was married in 1849. In 1993 to the dean of Haderup near it was declared a Ribe. In her will and deed of cathedral when the gift from 1775, Karen Ørsted diocese of Greenwrote that the inhabitants of land was founded. Greenland seemed to her, to
Foto/Photo: Mads Pihl / Visit Greenland
Samlesættet forliste Det gik ikke helt efter planerne, da Qaqortoq skulle have sin første kirke. Kirken, som kom til at hedde Vor Frelser Kirke, var en gave fra Det Danske Missionsselskab. Den
blev sendt som samlesæt fra Danmark til Grønland med skib i 1828. Men skibet gik på skær ud for Paamiut, og byggematerialerne og tegningerne måtte bjerges i land og fragtes til Qaqortoq
Assembly kit wrecked Things did not quite go to plan when Qaqortoq got its first church. The church, which would be named Our Saviour, was a gift from the Danish Mission. It was sent as an assembly kit from Denmark to Greenland by ship in 1828. But the ship ran aground off Paamiut and the building materials and plans had to be salvaged and transported to Qaqortoq in smaller portions over the next year. The rough treatment made it difficult to assemble the church so expert help was sent from Denmark. The church did not open until 1932.
i mindre portioner over de næste år. Den hårde medfart havde gjort det vanskeligt at samle kirken, så der måttes hentes eksperthjælp fra Danmark. Først i 1932 kunne kirken indvies.
A small cathedral It was the first time Greenlanders had used their own language in an official letter when, in 1777, Nikolaj, Nathanael, Abel and Ole from Ilulissat wrote to the Mission College in Denmark and asked for a loan for a church. The Zion Church, which in those days could almost be compared to a small cathedral, cost the congregation around 157 barrels of blubber and 59 whalebones. It was opened and consecrated in 1783. For a long time, this church was the biggest in Greenland and it is the oldest church building in Greenland that still functions as a church.
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Foto/Photo: Qaasuitsup Kommunia
En mindre katedral Det var første gang, grønlænderne formulerede sig på deres eget sprog i en officiel skrivelse, da Nikolaj, Nathanael, Abel og Ole fra Ilulissat i 1777 skrev til Missionskollegiet i Danmark og bad om et lån til en kirke. Zionskirken, der efter datidens forhold nærmest var en mindre katedral, kostede menigheden 157 tønder spæk og 59 hvalbarder. Den blev indviet i 1783. Kirken var i lang tid Grønlands største kirke, og den er den ældste kirkebygning i Grønland, der stadig er i brug som kirke den dag i dag.
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No port, No quay – No problem We have the equipment, experience and the possibility of also solving tasks in places where there is no infrastructure in order to secure the supply chain to all of Greenland.
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oplevelser / adventure
180 meter is foto / photo: mads nordlund
At flyve over fjelde og isbjerge i lav højde er noget Tekst: Mads Nordlund helt specielt
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2.000 km lang, 800 km bred og over tre km tyk på det højeste punkt, men fra luften mest af alt opfattes som en uendelig hvid horisont. I alt dækker indlandsisen over 80% af Grønlands samlede areal, og det er svært at fatte set i lyset af, at landet totalt set er på størrelse med Vesteuropa. Ved kanterne dukker kontraster op, der gør isen mere levende end blot hvidt i hvidt. Her folder isen i kæmpe buer ned mod gletsjerkanten, hvor isen brækker af som isbjerge. Flere målinger har vist, at gletsjeren bevæger sig med omkring 20 meter i døgnet, så selvom den set oppefra er smuk og figurativ, er der i virkeligheden tale om en kæmpemæssig smeltedigel under enormt pres, hvor kæmpe kræfter brydes og i sidste ende skub-
foto / photo: mads nordlund
foto / photo: mads nordlund
Det er en helt fantastisk oplevelse at kravle ombord i en af Air Zafaris små fly i lufthavnen i Ilulissat. Alle får headset, så de kan kommunikere med hinanden og høre, hvad piloten fortæller. Først har vi alle fået en sikkerhedsbriefing og hilst på den pilot, der skal flyve os ud over den mest producerende isbræ på den nordlige halvkugle. Vi når også at hilse på hans kollega, der lige er landet med et andet hold turister. Han fortæller, at de netop har set en større flok hvaler ved iskanten, så vi kan være heldige at se dem, hvilket sætter vores i forvejen store forventninger til turen en tak højere. Efter at være lettet fra lufthavnen flyver vi direkte ind mod indlandsisen. Den kæmpe sammenhængende ismasse, der er mere end
ber millioner af tonstunge isbjerge ud i isfjorden. Piloten flyver langs gletsjerkanten, men fra flyveren er det svært helt at fatte de tal, han fortæller, eller sætte iskantens højde i relief til noget andet end isen selv og isbjergene foran. At det er kæmpe størrelser, der er tale om, er der ingen i tvivl om, og alle sidder tavse og nyder synet. 180 meter is Piloten sætter kursen mod isfjordens udmunding. Vi flyver ud over den 60 kilometer lange isfjord, mens det ene kunstværk formet i is afløser det andet. På vejen rager mange smukke istoppe op fra de isbjerge, der stadig er uberørte i forhold til, da de knækkede af iskanten. Halvvejs ude af isfjorden ligger et af de isbjerge, der
endnu ikke er tippet rundt, og det bliver turens hidtidige højdepunkt. Bogstaveligt talt. Et gigantisk isbjerg rager op mellem de andre, og hvad det ikke har i drøjden, har det i højden. Flyets ene vinge stryger forbi isbjergets tinde på tryg afstand. På grund af isbjergets størrelse virker det helt tæt på og tryllebinder os alle. Piloten tjekker med sine instrumenter og fastslår, at isbjerget står mindst 180 meter højt over havoverfladen. Altså to gange højere end Frihedsgudinden (93m) og 2/3 af Eiffeltårnet (300m). En fantastisk skulptur fra naturens hånd. Jo længere vi kommer ud, jo mere plads bliver der mellem isbjergene, og synet af det første dybblå vand giver en smuk kontrast til isen. Længere ude er mange af isbjergene tippet rundt 28 2016
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Ilulissat, men her sidst i september er de fleste begyndt deres vandring sydpå for vinteren, så vi føler os ekstra heldige. Turen slutter med et fantastisk vue over Ilulissat med frit udsyn til havnen på den ene side, og over fjeldene til den anden side. Her ses en træbelagt sti, der går fra byen helt ud til isfjorden for at skåne naturen i verdensarvsområdet. Tilbage i lufthavnen kravler vi alle lettere euforiske ud,
og der bliver taget fotos af hinanden foran flyveren. Alle trykker pilotens hånd flere gange og takker endnu mere, før vi igen er ude af lufthavnen. En uforglemmelig oplevelse – af isen og hvalerne ved Ilulissat.
Se mere airzafari.gl Book din egen tur guidetogreenland.com
foto / photo: mads nordlund
Pukkelhvaler i sigte Da flyet når ud til kanten af isfjorden, følger vi det åbne vand mod vest og ser bygden Ilimanaq. Her er bygget en række nye hytter, hvorfra man kan nyde udsigten til isen, samtidig med at man oplever livet i en lille bygd. Fra Ilulissat kan man sejle derned på en times tid, og stedet ryger straks på ønskelisten.
Piloten vender flyveren og annoncerer, at vi lige tager hele kanten af isfjorden på vejen tilbage til lufthavnen i tilfælde af, vi er så heldige at se en pukkelhval. Og det er vi. Pludselig ser vi blåsten fra en hval, og så en til. Udover de to kæmper dukker fem mere op, og piloten kredser om stedet, så vi alle kan nyde de fantastiske dyr, der nyder godt af de store mængder krill ved kanten af isfjorden. Hele sommeren har der været masser af hvaler ved
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foto / photo: hans jørgen mørch
og fremstår dermed fladere i toppen.
foto / photo: hans jørgen mørch
Flying at low altitudes over mountains and icebergs is quite extraordinary Text: Mads Nordlund
It feels marvellous to climb aboard one of Air Zafari’s small aircraft at the airport in Ilulissat. Everyone is given a headset so they can communicate with each other and hear what the pilot has to say. First, we are all given a safety briefing and then we greet our pilot, who is going to fly us over the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere. We also say hallo to his colleague who has just landed with another group of tourists. He tells us that they have just seen a large group of whales at the edge of the ice, so our already high expectations go up a notch. After taking off from the airport, we fly directly towards the ice sheet. This huge, continuous ice mass is more than 2,000 km long, 800 km wide and more than three kilometres thick at its highest point, but from the air it looks more like an endless white horizon. In all, the ice covers more than 80% of the total area of Greenland and this is difficult to comprehend, seen in the light of the
180 meters of ice
foto / photo: mads nordlund
oplevelser / adventure
fact that the entire country is the size of Western Europe. The contrasts appear at the edges, giving the ice more life than just white in white. Here, the ice folds in gigantic arcs down towards the edge of the glacier, where it breaks off into icebergs. Several have shown that the glacier is moving at approx. 20 metres a day, so even though it looks beautiful and sculptural, it is in reality an enormous melting pot under tremendous pressure, where great forces wrestle and in the end push icebergs weighing millions of tons out into the fjord. The pilot flies along the glacier, but it is difficult from the aircraft to comprehend the figures he quotes or to relate the height of the ice face to anything other than the ice itself and the icebergs in front. There is no doubt that these are vast dimensions and everyone sits silently, enjoying the view. 180 metres of ice The pilot sets a course towards the mouth of the
ice fjord. We fly out over the 60-kilometre long ice fjord, as one ice sculpture replaces another. On the way, many beautiful tips stick up from the icebergs that are still intact after breaking off from the face of the glacier. Halfway out of the ice fjord there is an iceberg that has not yet tipped over and this is the high point of the trip – literally. A gigantic iceberg sticks up among the others and what it does not have in breadth, it has in height. The aircraft’s wing sweeps past the iceberg’s tip at a safe distance. Due to the size of the iceberg, it seems to be very close and it spell-binds us all. The pilot checks his instruments and determines that the iceberg extends at least 180 metres above sea level. That is twice the height of the Statue of Liberty (93m) and 2/3 of the Eiffel Tower (300m). A magnificent sculpture crafted by nature. The longer out we get, the more space there is between the icebergs and the sight of the first deep-blue water 28 2016
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makes a beautiful contrast to the ice. Further out, many of the icebergs have tipped over and therefore have flatter tops. Humpback whales in sight When the aircraft reaches the edge of the ice fjord, we follow the open water to the west and see the village 20
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of Ilimanaq. There are new cabins here, from which you can enjoy the view of the ice and at the same time get a feeling of how it is to live in a small village. You can sail there from Ilulissat in about an hour and the place is immediately put on my to-do list. The pilot turns the plane
and announces that we are going to fly along the entire edge of the ice fjord on the way back to the airport, in the hopes of being lucky enough to see a humpback whale. And we are! Suddenly we see the blow from one whale and then another. In addition to the two giants, five more turn up and the
pilot circles so we can enjoy these wonderful animals which benefit from the large amounts of krill at the edge of the ice fjord. All summer, there have been many whales in Ilulissat but here, at the end of September, most of them have started migrating south, so we feel really fortunate. The trip ends with a magnificent view of Ilulissat with the harbour on one side and the mountains on the other side. There is a wooden walkway here that goes past the town and all the way out to the ice fjord. The walkway is there to protect nature at this world heritage site. Back at the airport, we all crawl out, slightly euphoric and we take photos of each other in front of the aircraft. Everyone shakes the pilot’s hand and says thank you before we leave the airport. It was an unforgettable experience of the ice and the whales at Ilulissat. See more airzafari.gl Book your own trip guidetogreenland.com
www.colourfulnuuk.com
#colourfulnuuk
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bøger / books
Ulrik Pram Gad: National Identity Politics and Postcolonial Sovereignty Games Greenland, Denmark, and the European Union. English. 198 DKK
Greenland Calendar in large format with images of Greenland's magnificent nature. Greenlandic, Danish, English. 190 DKK
bøger
books
Rolf Müller: Grønland Kalender i stort format med billeder af Grønlands stor-slåede natur. Grønlandsk, dansk, engelsk. 190 DKK
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Nerisagut / Vores mad En kogebog med grønllandske råvarer lavet af unge i Nanortalik pg Tasiilaq som en del af projektet »Siunissaq uagut pigaarput« der betyder »Fremtiden tilhører os«. Grønlandsk, dansk. 249 DKK
Nerisagut / Our food A cookbook with Greenlandic ingredients made by young people in Nanortalik and Tasiilaq, as part of the project »Siunissaq uagut pigaarput«, which means »The future belongs to us«. Greenlandic, Danish. 249 DKK
Ide Jenny Tullin & Lis Anker Pedersen: … Nuannaraarput / Vi elsker … Mange sjove opskrifter og ideer til håndarbejde. Hvordan laver man en hvalbamse? Eller sin egen hjemmelavede müsli? Grønlandsk og dansk, 249 DKK
... Nuannaraarput / We love ... Many fun recipes and ideas for needlework. How to make a whale teddy bear. And your own homemade muesli. Greenlandic and Danish, 249 DKK
Naja Rosing-Asvid: Nipilersorta! Bogens titel betyder »Lad os spille«. Den indeholder 10 grønlandske børnesange med tilhørende noder og farverige tegninger, samt et indbygget »orgel« i bogen. Grønlandsk. 225 DKK
Nipilersorta! The book's title means »Let's play«. It contains 10 Greenlandic children's songs with accompanying notes and colourful drawings, as well as a built-in »organ« in the book. Greenlandic. 225 DKK
books
Lise Andersen: UUMMAT Fortællinger fra hjertet. Stærke beretninger fra tidligere børnehjemsbørn. Dansk. 225 DKK
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UUMMAT Stories from the heart. Strong reports from former orphanage children. Danish. 225 DKK
Det sker i Kalaallit Illuutaat Events at Greenlandic House Udstillinger / Exhibitions
»Warm Ice« and »The Word-(Assiliaq)« November 30: Photos by Anne Mette Ehlers about climate change and a conceptual exhibition with drawings, poems etc. by Lisbeth Karline Poulsen and Niviaq Korneliussen about the language issue in Greenland
Mit hjem – mit samfund & Det gyldne savn Fotos af Ivinguak’ Stork Høegh og malerier af Anina Hansen. Slutter 26. november »My Home – My Society« & »The Golden Loss« Photos by Ivinnguak’ Stork Høegh and paintings by Anina Hansen. Last day November 26
02. februar: Retrospektiv udstilling med Aaju Kristian Olsen February 02: A retrospective exhibition by the Greenlandic painter Aaju Kristian Olsen
Åbningstider: Mandag - torsdag 10.00 - 17.00, Fredag 10.00 - 16.00, Juli alle hverdage 10.00 - 16.00 Opening hours: Monday - Thursday 10am - 5pm, Friday 10am - 4pm, July weekdays 10am - 4pm
Varm is og Ordet-(assiliaq) 30. november: Fotos af Anne Mette Ehlers med en højaktuel klimavinkel og en udstilling af Lisbeth Karline Poulsen og Niviaq Korneliussen om det grønlandske sprog og sprogdebatten. Slutter 27. januar Arrangementer / Events 12. november: Bogpræsentation og koncert. Forlaget milik præsenterer novellesamlingen »Hun står i nordenvinden« af Nina Kreutzmann Jørgensen. Sammen med bogen udgives også Nina Kreutzmann Jørgensens første danskskrogede album med ti sange om de kvinder, novellerne handler om November 12. at 8pm: Book and CD release by the Greenlandic artist Nina Kreutzmann Jørgensen 26. november: Juleklip fra 13 – 17. Vi gentager succesen fra sidste år og inviterer til en hyggelig eftermiddag med fælles juleklip. Papir og skabeloner vil være til rådighed, og der sælges kaffe, the, saft og kage November 26. at 1 – 5pm: Cosy get-together for the whole family, Christmas decoration making, activities for children and Greenlandic Christmas music
December 10. at 5pm.: North Atlantic Christmas Concert with six choirs from Iceland, Greenland and The Faroe Islands in Helligaandskirken (Church of the Holy Spirit) on Strøget. Doors will be open from 4.15 pm. Tickets for sale from November 14. December 16. at 5pm.: Christmas Concert with the Greenlandic opera singer Josef Lund Josefsen with a piano accompaniment by Jim Milne. Tickets for sale from November 14.
10. og 11. december: Julemarked. Traditionen tro holder vi et stort julemarked med 30 boder med grønlandsk håndarbejde og kunsthåndværk December 10 and 11 from 11am to 4pm: Greenlandic Christmas Market with more than 30 stands with knittings, seal skin products, bead work, Christmas decorations, book sale and much more 10. december: Nordatlantisk julekoncert i Helligåndskirken. Færøske, islandske og grønlandske kor synger julen ind. Billetsalg starter 14. november
16. december: Julekoncert med operasanger Josef Lund Josefsen. Billetsalg starter 14. november
Der offentliggøres desuden løbende arrangementer på www.sumut.dk og facebook Besides the already announced events, we regularly publish events on www.sumut.dk and on facebook Løvstræde 6 Postbox 1042 DK - 1007 Copenhagen K Denmark Tel: 33 381 570
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erhverv / business
10 år med The GlacierShop, elements of Greenland - Ilulissat Hvis man er i Ilulissat, skal man besøge Grønlands flotteste souvenirbutik Tekst: greenland today
Siden indehaver Susanne Møller startede The GlacierShop, elements of Greenland den 1. marts 2006, er der sket rigtig meget i takt med, at der er kommet flere turister. Udover de, der kommer fra Europa via Danmark, er der også kommet flere krydstogturister og turister direkte fra Island de senere år. The GlacierShop, elements of Green-
land har derfor åben alle ugens syv dage i højsæsonen. Sortiment The GlacierShop, elements of Greenland har et bredt udvalg af grønlandsk kunsthåndværk, smykker, grønlandsk designet tøj, malerier og mange andre spændende souvenirs.
- Jeg vil først og fremmest fremhæve mit fantastiske team af medarbejdere. De taler flere forskellige sprog og yder vores kunder en unik service, siger Susanne Møller, der af samme årsag sendte pigerne ud til fotografering i stedet for sig selv.
10 years with The Glacier Shop, elements of Greenland - Ilulissat If you are in Ilulissat, you must visit the most beautiful souvenir shop in Greenland Text: greenland today
There are more tourists now than when the owner, Susanne Møller, started The Glacier Shop, elements of Greenland on March 1st 2006, and a lot has happened. In recent years, in addition to those that come from Europe via Denmark, there are also more cruise tourists and tourists that come directly from Iceland. The Glacier Shop, elements of 24
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Greenland is therefore open seven days a week in the peak season. Selection The Glacier Shop, elements of Greenland, has a wide range of Greenlandic handicraft, jewellery, Greenlandic-designed clothing, art and many other interesting souvenirs.
- I would like first and foremost to praise my fantastic team of employees. They speak several different languages and offer our customers an outstanding service, says owner Susanne Møller. For the same reason, she sent the girls out to be photographed instead of herself.
28 2016 Serving all sectors across Greenland.
The taste of Greenland with organic lamb.
Fuel supplier to mines and cruise ships. Experts in Arctic conditions.
greenland today
Greenland’s largest retail chain with stores in 66 settlements and cities.
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Greenland’s no. 1 webshop with a wide selection of nonfood products.
erhverv / business
Arktisk hovedstad med vokseværk Grønlands hovedstad Nuuk har udgivet en ambitiøs »Hovedstadsstrategi«, der blandt andet forudser, at byen skal kunne rumme 30.000 indbyggere i år 2030 Tekst: Mads Norlund
Der er fart på i Nuuk. Det kan man blandt andet se på antallet af byggekraner. Byen er i vækst. Det har den været i mange år, kun afbrudt af korte pauser som under den seneste finanskrise, hvor farten bremsede lidt, uden at byen dog gik helt i stå. Går man rundt i byens butikker, mærker man også en øget aktivitet. Der er flere kunder i byen, og nye butikker åbner, hvilket er et godt tegn på tillid til fremtiden. 26
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Strategi Strategi betyder groft oversat »den vej vi skal«, og som en vejviser for fremtidens udvikling har en enig kommunalbestyrelse med borgmester Asii Chemnitz Narup i spidsen vedtaget og udgivet hovedstadsstrategien »Nuuk – Arktisk Hovedstad«. En plan er nødvendig for at sikre en sund udvikling af Grønlands hovedstad i fremtiden for alle byens borgere, fastslår borgmesteren. Og bliver Nuuk en
hovedstad for hele Arktis, vil det skabe øget opmærksomhed til gavn for hele landet, skriver borgmesteren i indledningen til strategien. At det er nødvendigt med en god planlægning for Nuuk, kan mange andre hovedstæder snakke med om. Siden 2010 har verdens fordeling af mennesker mellem land og by tippet over, så der nu bor flere i verdens byer end udenfor. Det stiller krav til alt fra infrastruktur som veje og offentlig
Hele Grønlands Kuturhus »Katuaq« er et samlingspunkt i Nuuks hverdag med bl.a. biograf, musik, teater, konferencer og en levende cafe med rigtig god mad.
transport, til kloakering, butikker, byggeri, skoler, osv. – også i Nuuk. Her har man allerede mærket det, blandt andet på trafikken i myldretiden. Foreløbig har man løst problemerne med ensretning af nogle veje i bestemte tidsrum. Når Nuuk engang bliver dobbelt så stor som nu, vil der være behov for nye veje, mere trafikregulering, osv. År 2030 Tilflytningen fra land til by er ikke noget,
politikerne har bestemt, men er drevet af tilflytning for at få uddannelse og andre behov som arbejde og dermed noget at leve af. Dette har man traditionelt også flyttet efter i Grønland, hvor man som jæger og fangersamfund havde sommerog vinterbopladser alt efter, hvor fangstdyrene var på bestemte årstider. Ser man på Nuuks nærmeste nordiske naboer, bor 33% af befolkningen i Island i hovedstaden Reykjavik, og over 60% hvis man tæller forstæderne med.
foto/photo: Evy Aller Holding
foto/photo: stine selmer andersen
Greenland’s culture centre »Katuaq« is a rallying point in Nuuk, with e.g. cinema, music, theatre, conferences and a busy café with really good food.
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Isbjerge står højt på turisternes ønskeliste, og de leveres af gletsjeren i bunden af fjorden ved Nuuk. Icebergs are at the top of the tourists’ wish list and they are provided by the glacier at the head of the fjord in Nuuk.
På Færøerne er et næsten sammenligneligt indbyggertal på ca. 5.000 færre færinger end grønlændere. Her bor »kun« ca. 38% i hovedstaden Torshavn, men øerne har en bedre infrastruktur med veje og tunneller, der gør, at flere kan bo udenfor hovedstaden og pendle til arbejde. I Grønland findes ingen veje mellem byerne. Her må man sejle eller flyve mellem byer og bygder, og som i resten af verden vender de færreste tilbage til de små steder, når de først har boet i en by. Dermed vil Nuuk fortsat vokse fremover, og holder hovedstadsstrategiens forudsigelser, skal der masser af planlægning og forarbejde til, for at byen en dag kan rumme 30.000 indbyggere, svarende til 55% af landets befolkning.
bære den fortsatte udvikling. Med den voksende interesse for Arktis udtrykkes også et ønske i hovedstadsstrategien for, at Nuuk bliver det første valg, når politikere, virksomheder og turister retter blikket mod nord. Med internetforbindelse via søkabel til resten af verden og et sundt investeringsklima er det ikke utænkeligt, at virksomheder med handel i Arktis i fremtiden vil overveje at have kontor her. Som hovedhavn for sejladsen på Grønlands vestkyst er Nuuk godt placeret den dag, det bliver muligt at benytte Nordvestpassagen. At hovedstaden samtidig ønsker en international lufthavn, skyldes primært, at hovedparten af alle rejsende, der ikke er turister, skal til og fra Nuuk.
Mulighedernes by I fremtidsplanerne indgår også udvidelse af både havn og lufthavn. Det er nødvendigt, hvis forsyningslinjerne skal kunne
Nuuk som destination Med sloganet »Colourful Nuuk« og deltagelse i forskellige rejsemesser har Sermersooq Business Council gennem
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længere tid arbejdet på at få flere virksomheder og turister til Nuuk. I mange andre lande er storbyferie en normal rejseform. I Nuuk kan man kombinere byens mange kulturtilbud og madoplevelser med en storslået natur. Bjergtoppene Sermitsiaq, Store- og Lille Malene samt Hjortetakken skifter konstant udseende i takt med både dagslys og årets gang. Udenfor Nuuk ligger en række øer og Nordlandet (Akia), der med sin kæde af fjelde nok er noget af det mest fotograferede under de grønlandske solnedgange. Baglandet og fjorden kan nemt besøges på vandring eller med båd. Det meste af året kan man også besøge gletsjeren i bunden af fjorden og se både isbjerge, hvaler og et rigt dyreliv. Nuuk har som resten af Grønland et fantastisk nordlys, og derfor ser flere og flere muligheden for at besøge hovedstaden i vinterhalvåret, for eksempel i kombination med Island.
erhverv / business
Arctic capital
with growing pains Greenland’s capital, Nuuk, has published an ambitious »Capital Strategy« which, among other things, predicts that the city should have the capacity for 30,000 people in the year 2030
foto/photo: mads nordlund
Text: Mads Nordlund
Vokseværk I dag har Nuuk over 17.000 indbyggere, og flere store byggerier med tilhørende arbejdspladser står snart færdige, blandt andet en ny moderne anstalt og »Sikuki Nuuk Harbour« – en ny fremtidssikret havn. Fremtiden må dømme, om udviklingen sker på en bæredygtig vis, hvor byens smukke omgivelser bevares og tænkes ind som rekreative værdier, som strategien ligger op til. En ting er helt sikkert. Når man kan se en udvikling i én bestemt retning, er det bedre at forberede sig og være på forkant. Med den nye hovedstadsstrategi håber Nuuk at være netop det; En godt forberedt hovedstad for hele Arktis. Se mere sermersooq.gl business.gl colourfulnuuk.com kriminalforsorgen.gl sikuki.gl
Things are moving fast in Nuuk. The many building cranes bear witness to this. The city is growing. It has been doing so for many years, interrupted only by short breaks such as during the recent financial crisis, where the pace slowed, but did not stop completely. If you walk round the city’s shops, you also notice the increased activity. There are more customers in town and new shops have opened which is a good sign of confidence in the future.
mands on the infrastructure in the way of roads and public transport, sewerage, shops, buildings, schools etc., and Nuuk is no exception. The effects are already felt here, for example in the rush hour traffic. For the present, the problem has been solved by making some streets one-way at certain times. When Nuuk grows to twice the size it is now, new roads will be needed as well as increased traffic regulation, etc.
Strategy Strategy means roughly »the direction we should take« and as a guide for future development a unanimous municipal council headed by mayor Asii Chemnitz Narup has adopted and published the strategy for the capital: »Nuuk – Arctic Capital«. A plan is necessary in order to ensure the healthy development of Greenland’s capital in the future for all the citizens of the city, says the mayor. If Nuuk becomes a capital for the entire Arctic, it will raise an awareness that will benefit the entire country, wrote the mayor in the foreword to the strategy. That good planning is necessary for Nuuk is something that is evident from other capitals. Since 2010, the distribution of people all over the world between rural and urban has tipped over, so more people live in cities and towns than in the country. This makes de-
The year 2030 Migration from rural to urban areas is not determined by politicians, but it is driven by the desire to get an education and by other needs such as employment and ways to make a living. For the same reasons, it has been traditional in Greenland to move around. Hunting communities had summer and winter camps, all according to where the prey was in each season. If you look at Nuuk’s nearest Nordic neighbours, 33% of the population in Iceland live in the capital, Reykjavik – more than 60% if you include the suburbs. On the Faroe Islands, the population is almost comparable, with about 5,000 fewer Faroese than Greenlanders. Here, »only« 38% live in Torshavn, the capital, but the islands have a better infrastructure with roads and tunnels, enabling more people to live outside the capital and commute to work. 28 2016
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In Greenland, there are no roads between the towns. Here, you must sail or fly between towns and villages and, like the rest of the world, only a few people return to the smaller places, once they have lived in a town. Thus Nuuk will continue to grow and if the predictions of the »Capital Strategy« come true, a lot of planning and preparation will be necessary before the city has capacity for 30,000 inhabitants, the equivalent of 55% of the country’s population. The city of opportunity Plans for the future include expansion of both port and airport. This is necessary, to ensure the supply lines can cope with continued development. With the growing interest for the Arctic, the Capital Strategy also expresses a desire that Nuuk be the first choice when politicians, businesses and tourists look to the North. With an internet connection via submarine communications cable to the rest of the world and a sound investment climate, it is not unthinkable that companies with business in the Arctic could consider having an office here. 30
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Being the main port for shipping on Greenland’s west coast, Nuuk is in a good position for when it becomes possible to use the North West Passage. The capital still wants an international airport, mainly because most of the passengers who are not tourists fly to and from Nuuk. Nuuk as a destination For some time, the Sermersooq Business Council has worked under the slogan »Colourful Nuuk« to bring businesses and tourists to Nuuk, participating in various travel fairs. In many other countries, city breaks are a common form of holiday. In Nuuk, it is possible to combine the city’s many cultural and gastronomic offers with magnificent nature experiences. The mountains of Sermitsiaq, Store Malene and Lille Malene as well as Hjortetakken change constantly with the daylight and the seasons. Several islands lie outside Nuuk and Akia, with its chain of mountains, is probably one of the Greenland’s most photographed places during sunsets. The hinterland and the fjord are easily
accessible by foot or by boat. For most of the year it is also possible to visit the head of the fjord where there are icebergs, whales and abundant wildlife. Like the rest of Greenland, Nuuk has magnificent northern lights, so many people take the opportunity to visit the capital in the winter months, for example in combination with Iceland. Growing pains Today, Nuuk has more than 17,000 inhabitants and several major construction works with associated jobs will soon be complete, among them a new correctional facility and the »Sikuki Nuuk Harbour« – a new, future-oriented port. The future must judge whether development is taking place in a sustainable manner, where the beautiful surroundings of the city are preserved and involved recreationally, as the strategy suggests. One thing is certain: When you can see development is going in one direction, it is better to be prepared and to try to stay ahead. With the new capital strategy, Nuuk hopes to be just that: a well-prepared capital for the whole of the Arctic.
Nuuk has wonderful northern lights in the winter.
foto/photo: stine selmer andersen
foto/photo: Dida Heilmann
Nuuk har fantastisk nordlys i vinterhalvåret.
See more sermersooq.gl business.gl colourfulnuuk.com kriminalforsorgen.gl sikuki.gl
HERLUFSHOLM SKOLE - en dansk skole med globalt udsyn
Herlufsholm Skole er en traditionsrig, dansk skole med mange elever, der har forældre bosiddende i udlandet. På kostskolen bestræber vi os på at skabe et hjemligt miljø, hvor undervisning, fritidsaktiviteter og livet på elevgårdene udgør kernen i kostelevernes fælles hverdag. De smukke omgivelser, historiske traditioner og stærke værdier er med til at skabe rammen om en uddannelse med et højt fagligt niveau, hvor der er
plads til individualitet og ambition samt fokus på både personlig og akademisk udvikling. Et rigt aktivitetsprogram giver eleverne mulighed for at udøve sport, dygtiggøre sig inden for kunst og deltage i forskellige projekter såsom Round Square, The Duke of Edinburgh’s International Award og Model United Nations, hvor de møder børn og unge fra hele verden.
LÆS MERE PÅ WWW.HERLUFSHOLM.DK ELLER FIND OS PÅ FACEBOOK
• Grundskole 6. - 10. klasse • Dansk studentereksamen (STX) • International 1.g med internationale eksaminer (Prep-IB) • International Baccalaureate (IB) Herlufsholm tilbyder også en INTERNATIONAL SOMMERSKOLE for børn og unge i alderen 13-15 år. Programmet byder på niveauinddelt danskundervisning for de engelsksprogede eller engelsk medieprojekt, sportslige og kreative aktiviteter samt ekskursioner og oplevelser. Læs mere om Herlufsholm Sommerskole på
sommerskole.herlufsholm.dk 28 2016
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Natur / nature
Et lille hus i Tiniteqilaaq på bredden af Sermilikfjorden Tiniteqilaaq er en lille bygd nord for Ammassalik Ø med en permanent befolkning på knap 150 personer. Deres vigtigste levebrød er fiskeri og jagt. Bygden er kun tilgængelig med hundeslæde eller snescooter om vinteren og om sommeren med båd. Alternativt kan man året rundt komme dertil med helikopter. A small house in Tiniteqilaaq at the edge of the Sermilik Fjord Tiniteqilaaq is a small settlement north of Ammassalik Island with a permanent population of just under 150 people. The main livelihoods of the settlement are fishing and hunting. The settlement is only accessibly in winter by dog sled or snowmobile and in summer by boat. Alternatively, all year around you can go there by helicopter. 32
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Facebook Gunilla Lindh Photography Web https://500px.com/gunilla_lindh_photography www.gunillalindh.com E-mail photography@gunillalindh.com
En fotograf på Østkysten Et foto siger det hele – næsten Svenskfødte Gunilla Lindh er en fotograf med base i Island og Grønland, hvor hun arbejder som freelance bjergguide og fotograf. Hun fokuserer på at fotografere i de arktiske områder og især i
Grønland, som først bjergtog hende tilbage i 2013. Siden er hun flere gange om året vendt tilbage for at arbejde. I 2016 tilbragte hun tre måneder i Tasiilaq på Ammassalik Ø, hvor hun
arbejdede med hundeslædeture for Arctic Dreams og Icelandic Mountain Guides. Resultatet er den fine serie af billeder, I ser på disse sider - ledsaget af Gunillas egne kommentarer.
A photographer on the east coast a photo says it all – almost Swedish born Gunilla Lindh is a photographer based in Iceland and Greenland, where she works as a freelance mountain guide and a photographer. She focuses on photography in the Arctic regions and especially Greenland
which first captured her heart in 2013. Ever since, she has returned to work there several times a year. In 2016, she spent three months working for Arctic Dreams and Icelandic Mountain Guides on their dog
sledding trips. She lived in Tasiilaq on the Ammassalik Island in East Greenland and the result of her stay is the delicate series of photos you see in these pages, accompanied by her own words.
Alfred og Emil Det er to af hvalpene, der blev født i løbet af min tid i Tasiilaq dette forår. I løbet af de første par uger navngav vi dem ikke, for det er altid usikkert, om nyfødte hvalpe overlever de første par uger af deres liv. På dette billede er de omkring fem uger gamle, og de voksede op til at være to af de mest charmerende og skælmske, unge hunde. Når de når en alder af 4-5 måneder, bliver de lænket og tilknyttet et hundekobbel. Alfred and Emil These are two of the puppies that were born during my time in Tasiilaq this spring. During the first few weeks we did not name them as it’s always uncertain whether new born puppies will survive the first few weeks of their life. In this photo, they are about five weeks old and growing up to become two of the most charming and mischievous young dogs around. At about the age of 4-5 months they will be put on chains and into sled teams. 28 2016
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Ice fishing near Ammassalik Island I was very fortunate to spend time with the local hunters and fishermen and, on this sunny day at the end of March, I had the chance to accompany them for a day of fishing. Fishing in Greenland is still very often done in a simple, traditional way, using just a line, bait and a wooden stick in an open hole in the ice. The depth at this particular spot was around 500 meters. Here we fished for redfish, spotted wolf fish and also the Greenlandic shark. The fish caught are divided amongst the fishermen and provide an addition to the scarce food that can be found in food shops in East Greenland during the winter. Isfiskeri ved Ammassalik Ø Jeg var så heldig at tilbringe tid med de lokale fangere og fiskere, og på denne solskinsdag i slutningen af marts havde jeg chancen for ledsage dem på en dag med fiskeri. Fiskeri i Grøn-
land foregår stadig ofte på en simpel, traditionel måde i et åbent hul i isen med en line, madding og en træpind. Dybden på dette sted var omkring 500 meter. Her fiskede vi efter rødfisk, havkat og grønlandsk
haj. De fisk, der fanges, bliver delt mellem fiskerne og er et godt tilskud til det knappe udvalg af mad, der kan findes butikkerne i Østgrønland i løbet af vinteren.
Slædehundefamilie Jeg tog dette billede i Tiniteqilaaq i Østgrønland. En fanger i nærheden var ved at flænse en friskfanget sæl, og moderhunden og hvalpene gav ham deres fulde opmærksomhed som for at se, om der ville være nogen stumper tilbage, efter at fangerens egne hunde var blevet fodret. De østgrønlandske hunde blev først introduceret til Østgrønland fra Sibirien for omkring 4.500 år siden, og de betragtes som en af de reneste og stærkeste racer i verden. Brugen af hundeslæder er en integreret del af at livet og traditionerne i Grønland, og de anvendes stadig i udstrakt grad i Øst- og Nordgrønland. Den dag i dag er slædehunde en mere pålidelig transportform end moderne snescootere, og de er i stand til at dække terræn, som snescooter ikke kan forcere. 34
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Family of sled dogs I captured this photo in Tiniteqilaaq, East Greenland. Nearby was a hunter cutting up a freshly caught seal, and the mother and puppies were giving him their full attention as if to see if there would be any scraps left after the hunter’s own dogs were fed. The East Greenlandic dogs were first introduced to East Greenland around 4,500 years ago from Siberia and they are considered one of the purest and strongest breeds in the world. The use of dog sleds is a traditional and still integral part of living in Greenland, and they are used extensively in Eastand North Greenland. Still to this day, sled dogs are a more reliable mode of transportation than modern snowmobiles and they are capable of covering terrain that snowmobiles cannot.
Sejlads på Sermilikfjorden Dette foto blev taget under en sejltur med en af de lokale fangere fra Tiniteqilaaq ved solnedgang i begyndelsen af april. Da solen går ned over indlandsisen, får isbjergene en gylden farve, som giver en perfekt kontrast til det dybblå vand i fjorden.
Sailing on the Sermilik Fjord This photo was taken during a boat trip at sunset with one of the local hunters from Tiniteqilaaq at the beginning of April. As the sun is setting over the ice cap, icebergs gleam with a golden colour, providing a perfect contrast to the deep blue water of the fjord.
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Natur / nature
Amerikanske blomster i Grønland Den amerikanske fotograf Ken Bower fik sig noget af en overraskelse, da han satte sig for at lave et anderledes fotoprojekt i Grønland Tekst: Jesper Kunuk Egede
amerikanske fotograf Ken Bower har stor interesse i de nordiske og arktiske egne. Han hørte om området, da han for nogle år siden lavede research til et projekt, hvor han ville fortælle en historie, der kunne rykke noget. Han ville ikke blot begejstre med smukke billeder.
De lokale i Østgrønland kalder området ved den tidligere amerikanske base Bluie East Two Amerikanske Blomster, en ironisk betegnelse der dækker over en omfattende forurening ved basen, der blev rømmet helt tilbage i 1947. Den
Grafiske elementer i naturen Med en baggrund i grafisk design og reklame har han gennem 25 år samtidig fotograferet og formår at tage utroligt smukke billeder, der også fortæller en historie. Det gør, at hans arbejde er
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offentliggjort i internationale magasiner som Stern, GEO og National Geographic Traveler for blot at nævne nogle. Ken Bowers grafiske baggrund gør, at han bruger naturens former som en form for lærred. Som han nævner på sin hjemmeside, så ser han landskaber i kraft af deres former, størrelsesforhold, farver og kontraster og det prøver han at gengive igennem de følelser, der dukker op i ham ved mødet med stedet. American Flowers Hans nyeste fotoserie, som vi præsenterer
Måske som en konsekvens af denne fotoserie er der nu forlydender om, at at det amerikanske luftvåben er ved at indsamle mere information om situationen med Bluie East Two.
- Jeg blev ret chokeret, da jeg stod på stedet. Man føler, man er i et usædvanligt øde og uberørt område, og pludselig oplever man denne himmelråbende forurening, der selvfølgelig kunne have været undgået. For nogle år siden var det amerikanske militær i området og lede efter et forsvundet fly fra 2. verdenskrig. I Kulusuk kunne mine venner godt undre sig over den disposition. »Hvorfor har de råd til at lede efter et forsvundet fly, men ikke fjerne denne ubegribelige forureningskilde?« Jeg forstår virkelig godt deres undren, ræsonnerer Ken.
ved basen i fem dage for at kunne tage sine billeder. I 2014 var han der nogle dage for at recognoscere, og i 2015 kom han tilbage tidligt på foråret i håb om at få sne med på billederne som en god kontrast til de mange tønder. Forår i Østgrønland betyder dog også storis, så bare det at komme over til »blomsterne« var en kamp i sig selv, der krævede tre forsøg fordelt over seks dage. Da han så endelig nåede frem, blev de fem dage i hans lille lejr til otte, for det var ganske simpelt ikke muligt at hente ham før på grund af storisen.
Lang campingtur Det var Kens plan, at han ville ligge i telt
Se mere ken-bower.com
her, kalder han Amerikanske Blomster præcis, som de også gør i Østgrønland. - Når man ser de rustne tønder på lang afstand, ligner de fløjlsblomster, som de ligger der og skinner gyldent i solen. Men når man kommer tættere på, bliver det tydeligt, at der i stedet er tale om tusindvis af rustne olietønder, der er spredt ud i landskabet. Sammen med den tydelige olieforurening oplever man også en masse asbest, der med vinden har spredt sig i området, fortæller Ken. 28 2016
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Natur / nature
Perhaps as a consequence of this photo series, the American Air Force is collecting information about the situation at Bluie East Two.
Americaninflowers Greenland
The American photographer Ken Bower got a surprise when he set out to do a different kind of photo project in Greenland Text: Jesper Kunuk Egede
The locals in East Greenland call the area around the former American Base Bluie East Two American Flowers, an ironic term used for the extensive contamination at the base which was vacated back in 1947. The American photographer Ken Bower is very interested in the Nordic and Arctic regions. He heard about the area a few years ago, when he was researching a project that would tell a story that could make a difference. He did not want to simply enthral people with his beautiful pictures. 38
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Graphic elements in nature He has a background in graphic design and advertising and he has been taking photographs for 25 years. He has taken incredibly beautiful photos that also tell a story. His work has been published in international magazines such as Stern, GEO and National Geographic Traveler, to name just a few. Ken Bower’s graphic background means he can use nature’s own shapes as a form of canvass. He writes on his home page, that he sees landscapes in
terms of shapes, scale, colours and contrasts and he tries to couple this with the emotions that he feels at the site. American Flowers His most recent photo series, which we present here, is called American Flowers, just as it is in East Greenland. - When you see the rusty drums in the far distance, they look like golden marigolds shining in the sun. But when you get closer, it becomes clear that they are thousands of rusty oil drums spread out
over the landscape. Together with the considerable oil contamination, you also find that there is also a lot of asbestos that has been spread around the area with the wind, says Ken. - I was quite shocked when I was there. You feel you are in an unusually remote and untouched region and suddenly you find this horrendous contamination that, of course, could have been avoided. Several years ago, the American military was in the area looking for an aircraft that was lost during WW2.
In Kulusuk, my friends were astonished by this decision. »How can they afford to look for a plane that vanished, but cannot remove this incomprehensible source of pollution?« I really understand their astonishment, says Ken. Long camping trip It was Ken’s plan to stay in a tent at the base for five days in order to take his pictures. In 2014 her was there to reconnoitre for a few days and in 2015 he came back early in the spring hoping to
get photos with snow as a nice contrast to the many oil drums. Spring in East Greenland means sea ice, so just getting to the »flowers« was a battle that took three attempts over six days. When he finally got there, the five days in his small camp turned into eight, because picking him up was delayed due to the sea ice.
See more ken-bower.com 28 2016
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oplevelser / adventure
Kangerlussuaq er meget mere end blot et pitstop Den største indfaldsport til Grønland hedder Kangerlussuaq. Kun få gør et stop i denne bygd, men man kan sagtens have den som destination i sig selv Tekst & Fotos: Toke Brødsgaard
Der er mange grunde til, at man ikke bare skal have Kangerlussuaq overstået for at nå en anden destination. Den forholdsvis lille bygd med ca. 500 indbyggere er oprindelig grundlagt af amerikanerne under Anden Verdenskrig under navnet Bluie West Eight. Lufthavnen spillede en vigtig rolle i forbindelse med færgeflyvninger af fly mellem Amerika og Europa. Man kan stadig tydeligt se, at amerikanerne har sat deres præg på bygden. Desuden er hele området omkring Kangerlussuaq et eldorado for aktive naturelskere. Indlandsisen og Punkt 660 Områdets meget stabile vejr gør Kangerlussuaq meget attraktiv som destination og lufthavn. Turoperatøren World of Greenland Arctic Circle har daglige guidede ture. Det er en stor oplevelse og bør stå på enhver to-do liste. En populær destination er Punkt 660, 40
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der ligger for enden af vejen mod isen ca. 39 km. fra Kangerlussuaq bygd. Vejen er med sine 51 kilometer fra havnen til isen Grønlands længste vej. I sommermånederne er dette en støvet vej, da klimaet er meget tørt. Der er dog under hele turen en del at se på, både speciel vegetation, blomster og dyr. Undervejs gøres et par stop for at nyde den storslåede landskab med isen som en kæmpe baggrundskulisse for det hele. Punkt 660 indikerer højden over havet, da stedet blev navngivet. Her ledes man af en guide op på isen. Man kan tydeligt se, hvordan isen har trukket sig tilbage og har efterladt et goldt moræneområde med en del spændende sten og mineraler. På isen ser man den rå overflade og kan krydse flere vandløb med godt gang i vandet. Man fascineres af synet ind over isen, der fortsætter længere – meget længere end øjet rækker.
Russel gletscher En anden populær udflugt går til den smukke Russel Gletscher. Der køres i »buslastbiler«, der er særligt affjedrede og har en meget høj bund, da vejene er meget ujævne, og der køres på forholdsvis stejle strækninger. Man føler sig dog meget sikker under kørslen med meget erfarne chauffører. Første stop er ved et vrag af et amerikansk jagerfly, der faldt ned i 1968. I området omkring Kangerlussuaq ligger der flere af disse nedfaldne fly, hvor alle piloterne heldigvis har nået at skyde sig ud forud for styrtene. Undervejs til gletscheren laves yderligere fotostop, især hvis der spottes moskusokser eller rensdyr, hvilket altid vækker stor begejstring. Russel Gletscheren er en kæmpe oplevelse. Den aktive gletschervæg brydes med jævne mellemrum, og isstykker kan derfor ses i floden. Vegetationen er rig omkring gletscheren, og i højsommeren er der et væld af blomster i området, ligesom der ofte er sneharer.
Kangerlussuaq fra luften De fleste ankommer til Kangerlussuaq med fly, men der er meget mere at opleve fra luften i og omkring Kangerlussuaq. I sommerhalvåret har AirZafari et mindre fly, hvor man kan købe rundflyvninger i området omkring bygden. Her er rig mulighed for at se både moskusokser, gletschersøer, indlandsisen og ikke mindst det utrolig smukke og meget varierende landskab omkring Kangerlussuaq. Lufthavnen er ligeledes base for redningstjenesten, der udføres med helikopter. Da denne meget sjældent er optaget til det formål, er der mulighed for at flyve sightseeingture med helikopteren i det smukke landskab, hvor der laves en landing ved eller på selve isen. Overnatning Der er forskellige muligheder for overnatning i Kangerlussuaq. I selve lufthavnen ligger byens hotel. Et stenkast fra
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Den Amerikansk base Basen Bluie West Eight blev grundlagt af amerikanerne i 1941 som en vigtig lufthavn, hvor fly, der skulle færgeflyves fra Amerika til Europa kunne lande og tanke. Senere blev basen omdøbt til Sondrestrom Air Base og fungerede frem til 1992 som amerikansk militærbase. I de sidste mange år som base var dens vigtigste formål at agere forsyningsbase for DEW-kædens fire DYE-stationer (DYE1, 2, 3 og 4) på isen. Disse stationer var varslingsstationer, der under Koreakrigen og Den Kolde Krig skulle advare, hvis der var fly på vej fra Rusland. DYE stationerne er nu lukket, og amerikanerne har lukket basen ned, men kommer hvert år og træner landinger med militærfly på isen, hvor de anvender Kangerlussuaq lufthavn. Ligeledes kommer der hvert år en række amerikanske forskere til bygden primært for at undersøge klimaforandringerne. Kangerlussuaq som civil lufthavn Allerede i 1970erne havde SAS flyvninger til Kangerlussuaq, men ingen af disse flyvninger var dog med Kangerlussuaq som slutdestination, da adgang til basen krævede speciel tilladelse. Folk blev fløjet videre i S-61 helikoptere af Grønlandsfly, det nuværende Air Greenland. De store S-61 helikoptere blev senere skiftet ud med Dash 7 fly og er er nu erstattet af Dash 8 fly, der flyver til en række destinationer omkring i Grønland. Desuden er der nu direkte flyvninger fra Island i sommerhalvåret.
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lufthavnen finder man Polar Lodge, et vandrehjem med en ganske god standard, enkle værelser og fælles køkkenfaciliteter, bad og toilet. Lidt længere fra lufthavnen, finder man Old Camp, et simplere vandrehjem med god lejrstemning. I bygden finder man Kangerlussuaq Vandrehjem. Er man til friluftsoplevelser, kan man medbringe telt og campere i fjeldet. En del af året arrangeres todagsture med overnatning på isen, hvilket er en unik oplevelse – især forår og efterår med nordlys på nattehimlen. Nordlys, hundeslæde og ski I vintermånederne januar-april er Kangerlussuaq dækket af sne, der giver mulighed for at komme på hundeslædetur og at stå på langrendski. I denne periode er nattehimlen ofte oplyst af imponerende nordlys, der kun få andre steder kan opleves så klart og flot som i Kangerlussuaq. Nogle nætter domineres himlen af nuancer i grønne, violette og blå farver, der bølger frem og tilbage. Har man ikke oplevet dette før, tror man ikke sine egne øjne. Især de frostklare nætter er helt ubeskriveli-
ge. Man skal dog være klædt godt på, da her kan være meget koldt. Mad i Kangerlussuaq Bor man på et af vandrehjemmene og selv har mulighed for at lave mad, er der et fint lille supermarked i bygden. I selve lufthavnen ligger et cafeteria, der serverer grillmad og har en dagens ret. De er især kendt for deres moskusburger. Bagest i cafeteriaet ligger en lille restaurant. I bygden ligger et kombineret pizzaria/Thai restaurant, der samtidig er byens lokale bar. Fire km fra lufthavnen ligger Kangerlussuaqs bedste spisested »Restaurant Roklubben«, der serverer god kvalitetsmad med grønlandske råvarer. Højdepunktet er deres meget flotte grønlandske buffet, der serveres hver søndag aften. Her skal man huske at bestille bord, for stedet er godt besøgt. Se mere WOGAC.com AirZafari.gl hotelkangerlussuaq.gl guidetogreenland.com greenland-travel.com
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oplevelser / adventure
Kangerlussuaq is much more than just a pit stop The biggest gateway to Greenland is called Kangerlussuaq. Only a few people stop over in this village, but it could easily be a destination in its own right Text and photos: Toke Brødsgaard
There are many reasons why you should not just rush through Kangerlussuaq on your way to another destination. The comparatively small village with approx. 500 inhabitants was originally established by the Americans during WW2 under the name Bluie West Eight. The airport played a major role as a stopover site for aircraft flying missions between America and Europe. The American influence on the village is still clear to see. In addition, the entire area surrounding Kangerlussuaq is an El Dorado for nature lovers. The Ice cap and Point 660 The very stable weather in the region makes Kangerlussuaq a very attractive destination and airport. The World of Greenland Arctic Circle tour operator has guided tours daily. It is a fantastic experience and should be on everyone’s to-do list. 44
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Point 660 is a popular destination which is located at the end of the road to the ice cap, approx. 39km from the village of Kangerlussuaq. With its 51 kilometres from the harbour to the ice, it is Greenland’s longest road. In the summer this is a dusty road, because the climate is very dry. However, there is plenty to look at on the way; special vegetation, flowers and animals. There are a couple of stops on the way to enjoy the spectacular landscape and the ice is an enormous backdrop for everything. Point 660 indicates the altitude above sea level when the place was named. A guide leads you up the ice here. It is clear to see that the ice has retreated and left a barren, moraine area with interesting stones and minerals. The rough surface of the ice can be seen and you can cross several fast-running rivers. The view across the ice is fascinating and it reaches much, much further than the eye can see.
Russell glacier Another popular excursion goes to the beautiful Russell Glacier. Transport is in »bus-trucks« that have special suspension and are very high off the ground, since the roads are very uneven and comparatively steep. However, you feel very safe riding in one of these and the drivers are very experienced. The first stop is by the wreck of an American fighter aircraft which crashed in 1968. There are several of these aircraft wrecks in the area around Kangerlussuaq. Fortunately, all the pilots were able to catapult out before the planes crashed. There are more photo stops on the way out to the glacier, particularly when a musk-ox or reindeer is spotted, which is always very popular. The Russell Glacier is a tremendous experience. The face of this active glacier often breaks off and pieces of ice can therefore be seen in the river. The vegetation around
the glacier is rich and at the height of summer, there is an abundance of flowers in the area and there are also often Arctic hares. Kangerlussuaq from the air Most people fly to Kangerlussuaq, but there is so much more to experience from the air in and around Kangerlussuaq. In the summer months, Air Zafari has a small aircraft you can hire to take you on sightseeing flights around the surroundings of the village. This provides a great opportunity to see muskoxen, glacier lakes, the ice sheet and especially the incredibly beautiful and very diverse landscape around Kangerlussuaq. The airport is also the base for rescue services, which are undertaken by a helicopter. Since this is rarely occupied with such tasks, there is an opportunity to fly on sightseeing trips with the
helicopter in this beautiful landscape, where the helicopter lands either near or on the ice. Accommodation There are various forms of accommodation in Kangerlussuaq. The town’s hotel is at the airport. Polar Lodge, a hostel with a very good standard, is a stone’s throw from the airport. It has single rooms and common kitchen facilities, bathroom and toilet. Old Camp is a little further from the airport. It is a more modest hostel with a good camp atmosphere. Kangerlussuaq Vandrehjem is a hostel in the village. If you like fresh air, you can bring a tent and camp out in the fells. At a certain time of year, two-day trips are arranged, where you spend the night on the ice. This is a unique experience – particularly in spring and autumn with the Northern lights in the night sky.
American base The Bluie West Eight Base was established by the Americans in 1941 as an important airport where aircraft flying on missions between America and Europe could stop to refuel. Later on, the base was renamed Sondrestrom Air Base and until 1992 it functioned as an American military base. In the past several years, the most important purpose of the base was to act as supply base for the DEW chain’s four DYE stations (DYE 1, 2, 3 and 4) located out on the ice. These early warning stations were used during the Korean War and the Cold War to warn of aircraft on the way from Russia. The DYE stations have been closed down and the Americans shut down the base, but they come back to Kangerlussuaq airport each year to train in landing military aircraft on the ice. In addition, American researchers come each year to the village, primarily to investigate climate changes. Kangerlussuaq as a civil airport Already in the 1970s, SAS had flights to Kangerlussuaq, but none of these flights had Kangerlussuaq as their final destination, because the base was off-limits and access required special permission. Passengers were flown onwards with the S-61 helicopters by Grønlandsfly, now Air Greenland. The large S-61 helicopters were later replaced by Dash 7 aircraft and these have in turn been replaced by Dash 8 aircraft which fly to a series of destinations around Greenland. Nowadays, there are also direct flights from Iceland in the summer. 28 2016
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Northern lights, dog sleds and skis In the winter months, January to April, Kangerlussuaq is covered in snow, providing an opportunity to take a dog sled trip or to do some cross-country skiing. At this time of year, the night sky is often illuminated by impressive Northern lights. There are few places where it can be experienced as clearly as in Kangerlussuaq. On some nights, the sky is dominated by shades of green, violet and blue colours that pulse back and forth. If you have not experienced it before, you will hardly believe your own eyes. Especially the clear, frosty nights are indescribable. But dress warmly, it can be very cold. Eating in Kangerlussuaq If you live in one of the hostels you can cook your own food. The village has a fine, little supermarket. There is a cafeteria in the airport building that serves fast food as well as a dish of the day. It is particularly known for its musk-ox burgers. At the back of the cafeteria, there is small restaurant. In the village there is a combined pizzaria/Thai restaurant, which is also the village’s local bar. Four kilometres from the airport you find Kangerlussuaq’s best restaurant, »Restaurant Roklubben«, which serves good, high quality food made of Greenlandic ingredients. The highlight is their magnificent Greenlandic buffet which is served every Sunday evening. Remember to book a table, because it is very popular.
See more WOGAC.com AirZafari.gl hotelkangerlussuaq.gl guidetogreenland.com greenland-travel.com 46
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GREENLAND VENTURE
The capital, know-how and network to make things happen Vi har kapitalen, der kan bringe dine ideer i hus Greenland Venture provides investment to help businesses grow and prosper. We work with local entrepreneurs and businesses and with international partners who plan to invest in and work with Greenlandic companies.
Greenland Venture investerer i virksomheder, der kan skabe vækst, udvikling og arbejdspladser i Grønland. Vi investerer i sunde og bæredygtige virksomheder, der har et potentiale for at vokse og skabe stabil indtjening.
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Vil du udvikle din virksomhed, men har brug for kapital til at vokse, kan Greenland Venture være det næste naturlige skridt. Vi investerer i veletablerede
is dedicated to helping national and international investors and entrepreneurs who wish to take active
virksomheder, når vi kan se et sundt forretningsgrundlag, en gennemarbejdet forretningsplan og muligheder
par t in shaping the future of our countr y. If you are seeking to invest in Greenland and the Arctic Region, Greenland Venture is your key to getting star ted. We
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international cooperation and par tnerships.
Greenland Venture A/S a subsidiary of Greenland Holding A/S PO Box 1068, 3900 Nuuk, Greenland +299 342880 info@venture.gl
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natur / nature
Fældefangst i Nationalparken Det kræver både tålmodighed og teknisk opfindsomhed, at »fange« dyrene på Grønlands østkyst Tekst greenland today, Foto Lars Holst Hansen
I Nordøstgrønland blev der fra 1908 -1960 fanget polarræve og skudt andre dyr som isbjørn, ulv og moskusokse af danske og ikke mindst norske fangstmænd. Med oprettelsen af Nationalparken i 1974 var det imidlertid stort set slut med jagt og fældefangst i dette store område. I dag bliver der igen fanget og skudt dyr ved Zackenberg Forskningsstation, men nu med fotofælde og kamera. 48
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- Jeg har siden 2007 arbejdet som feltbiolog og fra 2009 også som stedfortrædende videnskabelig leder ved Zackenberg, fortæller Lars Holst Hansen. - Mine primære opgaver er at overvåge den biologiske del af økosystemet samt at sørge for den lokale ledelse af forskningsstationen i samarbejde med logistikerne.
Naturfoto - Naturfoto er min store passion, og det at opholde sig lange periode det samme sted i en af verdens største vildmarker giver nogle unikke muligheder, fortæller Lars. - Man kan lære enkelte dyrs vaner at kende, og omvendt får de lejlighed til at vænne sig til én og finde ud af, at man er harmløs og derved lade én komme relativt tæt på. Der er dog grænser
for hvor tæt på, man kan bevæge sig med tanke på sikkerheden for én selv. Fotofælder giver mulighed for et meget tæt perspektiv på selv potentielt farlige dyr uden at forstyrre. - Jeg ser det som en mulighed for at opnå billeder, der ellers ville være umulige eller meget svære at lave. Det kræver en del både kreative og tekniske overvejelser for at lykkes. En god portion
held skal der også til, men det gælder vel i grunden de fleste former for naturfoto. Fotofælder - I 2011 havde jeg en infrarød udløser med til Grønland med planer om at lave en fotofælde. Jeg så en oplagt mulighed, da nogle moskustyre begyndte at holde til ved et lille midlertidigt vandhul i midten af juni. Det var endnu tidligt på sæsonen, og
vandhullet var stort set det eneste sted med saftig grøn vegetation i miles omkreds. Der var derfor en god chance for, at de ville blive der nogle dage. Jeg brugte et fiskeøjeobjektiv for at få meget af bjergene i baggrunden med og samtidig afbilde dyrene relativt tæt på, forklarer Lars.
Lars Holst Hansens første seriøse forsøg med fotofælde. Billedet fik en placering i Pattedyrkategorien i en stor nordisk naturfotokonkurrence i 2012, og Grønlands Postvæsen valgte i 2013 at udgive et frimærke med dette motiv. Lars Holst Hansen’s first attempt with a photo trap. The photo was runner up in the Mammal Category in a major Nordic nature photography competition in 2012 and in 2013 Greenland’s postal services issued a postage stamp with this motif.
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Lars Holst Hansen var ganske glad for baggrunden med fjeldene ovre på Clavering Ø, men det var ikke rigtig til at se, at det var en død moskusokse fra den synsvinkel. Man kunne naturligvis have drejet oksen, men Lars er principfast med hensyn til ikke at iscenesætte noget i naturfotografierne, så han lod oksen blive liggende.
Selv som døde kan moskusokserne faktisk udgøre interessante motiver. I forbindelse med en tælling af moskusokserne i terrænet så Lars Holst Hansen denne moskustyr. Det friske kadaver tiltrak ravne og polarræve og var et oplagt sted at stille fotofælden op. Ravnene fløj væk, så snart han nærmede sig, men de vænnede sig hurtigt til fælden.
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Even dead, the musk-oxen can actually make interesting motifs. In connection with counting musk-oxen in the field, Lars Holst Hansen saw this musk-ox bull. The fresh carcass attracted Arctic foxes and ravens and it was the obvious place for a photo trap. The ravens flew off as soon as he approached, but they soon got used to the trap.
Lars Holst Hansen was very pleased with the background made by the mountains over on Clavering Island, but it was not possible to see it was a dead musk-ox from that angle. He could, of course, have moved the musk-ox, but Lars is resolute in his determination not to orchestrate anything in his nature photographs, so he let the musk-ox lie.
I stedet for at dreje kadaveret, forsøgte Lars sig med alternative vinkler. Det var spændende at følge kadaverets langsomme nedbrydning, og det gav mange gode billeder både med og uden fælde, for rævene vænnede sig efterhånden helt til hans tilstedeværelse. Instead of moving the carcass, Lars tried alternative angles. It was interesting to watch the slow decomposition of the carcass and it provided many good photos, both with and without the trap, because the foxes gradually became accustomed to his presence.
Om fotografen n Lars Holst Hansen n Dansk naturfotograf født i 1973 n Medlem af Naturfoto grafer i Danmark n Feltbiolog og stedfor trædende videnskabelig leder ved Forskningssta tion Zackenberg i Nord østgrønland n Har siden 2007 arbejdet for Aarhus Universitet i Danmark med overvåg ning af klimaændrin gernes påvirkning af det arktiske økosystem ved Zackenberg n Freelance-rejseleder med ture til Grønland, Afrika og Galapagos n Foredragsholder
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In 2012, Lars Holst Hansen brought a photo-robot – a radio-controlled, mobile camera platform – for close-ups of the musk-oxen with a wide-angle lens. However, the animals were afraid of it, so it was only tested once. Instead, the photo trap came into play again, this time in wetlands, where there are plenty of musk-oxen in the autumn.
I 2012 havde Lars Holst Hansen medbragt en fotorobot – en radiostyret, mobil kameraplatform – til næroptagelser af moskusokserne med vidvinkel. Dyrene var imidlertid bange for den, så det blev ikke til mere end en enkelt test. I stedet kom fotofælden på arbejde igen. Denne gang opstillet i et vådområde, hvor der opholder sig en masse moskusokser om efteråret.
TEKNIK Til fotofældefangst har man brug for en udløser. Lars har passive infrarøde sensorer (PIR), som reagerer på bevægelse. Man kan også bruge såkaldt aktive udløsere, hvor en lysstråle brydes, snubletråde eller trykfølsomme kontakter. En aktiv udløser giver mulighed for større kontrol af, hvornår billedet tages, men man risikerer også, at ingen billeder tages. Lars bruger ingen former for lokkemidler ud over de, der findes naturligt såsom kadavere, da han ikke ønsker at iscenesætte noget. Nogle dyr kan dog blive tiltrukket af selve
NATIONALPARKEN Beliggenhed: Nord- og Østgrønland – den største i verden. Areal: 970.000 km². Heraf ca. 200.000 km², der ikke er dækket af indlandsis. Etableret: 1974. Indbyggere: ca. 20 militærfolk ved Station Nord, Slædepatruljen Sirius samt Mestersvig Flyveplads og ca. otte vejrstationsfolk ved Danmarkshavn. I sommerhalvåret dertil en række forskere, logistikere, råstofeftersøgningshold og endelig turister på enten egne såkaldte sportsekspeditioner med eksempelvis kajak eller krydstogter.
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kameraet. Eksterne flash bruges hyppigt, men ikke så meget i Nordøstgrønland, hvor midnatssolen er fremme tre måneder om sommeren. Det kan være en god ide med en kasse, der kan beskytte kameraet mod vejret og ikke mindst de knubs, som nogle dyr kan give det. Kameraet stilles for det meste på blændeprioriteret automatik med automatisk ISO, så flest mulige lysforhold dækkes. Et lavt solidt stativ eller en hjemmelavet platform med gevind til et stativhoved med snapkobling kan være praktisk.
Natur: indlandsis, tundra, fjelde, gletsjere, søer, elve. Beskyttelse: Naturen er generelt beskyttet, men der gives særlige tilladelser til mineralefterforskning og udvinding, og begrænset jagt tillades på fjeldrype, polarhare og sæler af fast stationspersonel samt jagt på isbjørn af grønlandske erhvervsfangere. En nylig dispensation til Slædepatruljen Sirius til at skyde seks moskusokser til undervisningsformål er ikke blevet udnyttet fuldt ud på grund af hensyn til forskningen og overvågningen i Nationalparken.
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natur / nature
Trapping in the National Park It requires both patience and technical expertise to ÂťtrapÂŤ the animals on the east coast of Greenland Text: greenland today, Photo: Lars Holst Hansen
Between 1908 and 1960, Arctic foxes were trapped and other animals such as polar bears and musk-oxen in Northeast Greenland were shot by Danish hunters and by Norwegian hunters in particular. The establishment of a national park in 1974 marked the end of hunting and trapping in this huge 54
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area. Today, trapping and shooting of animals is again taking place at the Zackenberg Research station, but now with photo traps and cameras. - Since 2007 I have worked as a field biologist and from 2009 also as deputy scientific director at Zackenberg, says Lars Holst Hansen.
- My primary work is to monitor the biological part of the ecosystem and to undertake the local management of the research station with the logisticians. Nature photography - Nature photography is my great passion and staying in one place for longer periods
in one of the world’s biggest wildernesses provides unique opportunities, says Lars. - You can learn the habits of the individual animal and it gets an opportunity to become accustomed to you and find out you are harmless, letting you get relatively close. There are, however, limits to how close you can
It was not the intention to attract the musk-oxen, because Lars Holst Hansen prefers photos of animals that are uninfluenced. The photo here was published as a postcard in 2013. Det var ikke intentionen at lokke moskusokserne til, for Lars Holst Hansen vil helst have billeder af dyr, der er upĂĽvirkede. De er imidlertid nysgerrige dyr. Billedet her er udgivet som postkort i 2013.
About the photographer n Lars Holst Hansen n Danish nature photogra pher, born in 1973 n Member of Nature Pho tographers in Denmark n Field biologist and deputy scientific director at the Zackenberg Research Station in Northeast Greenland n Since 2007, he has wor ked for Aarhus Univer sity in Denmark on mo nitoring the effects of cli mate change on the Arc tic ecosystem at Zacken berg n Freelance tour guide for tours to Greenland, Africa and the Galapagos Islands n Lecturer
get for your own safety’s sake. Photo traps provide an opportunity to get a very close perspective of even potentially dangerous animals, without disturbing them. - I see it as an opportunity to achieve photos that would otherwise be impossible or at least very difficult to obtain. It takes quite a
lot of creative and technical consideration in order to succeed. It also requires a good amount of luck, but then that applies to most kinds of nature photography. Photo traps - In 2011, I took an infrared trigger to Greenland, planning to build a photo
trap. I saw an obvious opportunity when some musk-oxen started to come to a small, temporary water hole in the middle of June. It was still early in the season and the water hole was just about the only lush green vegetation for miles around. Therefore, there was a good chance they would be there
for a few days. I used a fisheye lens to get a lot of the mountains in the background and at the same time get really close shots of the animals, explains Lars.
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TECHNIQUES Triggers are required for photo traps. Lars has passive infrared sensors (PIR) that detect movement. Active triggers, where a beam is broken, trip wires or pressure-sensitive mats can also be used. An active trigger provides greater control over when the photograph is taken, but there is also a risk that no picture is taken at all. Lars does not use any kind of bait above what is found naturally, such as carcasses, because he does not want to orchestrate anything. Some animals can, however, be drawn to 56 56
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the camera itself. External flashes are often used generally, but not so much in Northeast Greenland where the midnight sun shines for three months in the summer. A box is a good idea; it can protect the camera against the weather and especially from being knocked about by animals. For the most part, the camera is set on aperture priority auto with automatic ISO to cover as many light conditions as possible. A low, solid tripod or a homemade platform with a thread for a tripod head with quick coupling can be practical.
THE NATIONAL PARK Location: North and East Greenland – the world’s biggest park. Area: 970,000 km² of which approx. 200,000 km² is not covered by the ice cap. Established: 1974. Inhabitants: Approx. 20 military personnel at Station Nord, the Sirius Sled Patrol and Mestersvig Airfield and about eight people at the weather station at Danmarkshavn. In the summer, there are also researchers, logisticians, exploration teams and finally tourists; tourists on so-called sports expeditions,
e.g. with kayaks and passengers on cruises. Nature: ice sheet, tundra, mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers. Conservation: Nature is generally well-protected, but special permission is given to mineral exploration and exploitation. Limited hunting is permitted for ptarmigan, Arctic foxes and seals by permanent staff members of the station. Professional Greenlandic hunters may hunt polar bears. A recent dispensation given to the Sirius Sled Patrol to shoot six musk-oxen for training purposes has not
You do not always get the photo you hoped for. The trap was set up close to a river, where Lars had seen many fox tracks. However, the fox stayed away, but this Arctic hare came by instead. Det er langt fra altid, at man får det foto i kassen, man har forestillet sig. Fælden blev stillet op tæt ved en elv, hvor Lars havde set mange rævespor. Ræven holdt sig dog væk, men i stedet kom denne polarhare forbi.
In 2011, Lars saw how the foxes ate a musk-ox from the inside and one fox even used the hollow chest cavity to take a nap during a snowstorm. It awoke with surprise when Lars came to check on the photo trap. Later, Lars cut a hole in the opposite side of the foxes’ natural way into a fresh carcass, big enough for a protective box and a flash. The musk-ox was quite winddried and no longer of interest to the foxes, so the entire summer passed before a fox became interested in the carcass and poked its head inside. I 2011 så Lars, hvordan rævene spiste en moskusokse indefra, og en ræv brugte endda den hule brystkasse til at tage en lur under en snestorm. Den vågnede noget overrasket og løb sin vej, da Lars kom for at se til fotofælden. Senere skar Lars et hul i den modsatte side af rævenes naturlige indgang i et friskt kadaver stort nok til en beskyttelseskasse og en flash. Oksen var godt vindtør og ikke længere så interessant for rævene, så hele sommeren gik, og det blev efterår, inden en ræv fandt kadaveret interessant og stak hovedet indenfor.
been fully exploited due to consideration for research and surveillance in the national park.
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erhverv / business
Som at bo i fjeldet Hotel Arctic i Ilulissat har udvidet med fem nye fjeldværelser, hvor man får fornemmelsen af at være i fjeldet, selvom man er omgivet af den ypperste luksus, hotelværelser kan byde på Tekst & foto: greenland today
Hvis man gerne vil opleve naturen på nærmeste hold, men stadig kunne holde varmen, giver Hotel Arctics nye værelser en oplevelse i særklasse. Her kan man sidde på sin egen terrasse eller ligge i en topmoderne elevationsseng og kigge ud over isfjorden. Værelserne er bygget ind i soklen på en af hotellets nyere fløje, hvor de øvrige værelser har samme fænomenale udsigt. Men det, der gør fjeldværelserne unikke,
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er, at de alle har separat indgang fra fjeldet, og hver er forsynet med sin egen lille terrasse. Her kan man sidde og nye solens gang over isfjorden med en kop kaffe fra værelsets egen Nespressomaskine eller et glas vin fra køleskabet. Der er ikke sparet på interiøret, og det første, der fanger øjet, er en fantastisk fotostat af en fugleflok i flugt foran en række isfjelde, der pryder hele rummets ene væg.
Helhedsoplevelse Den nyeste teknologi er også anvendt på badeværelset, hvor en glasvæg med et tryk på en kontakt bliver matteret og ugennemskuelig. Toilettet fungerer samtidig som bidet, og lyset i spejlet tændes og slukkes uden berøring. Brusehovedet er et stort vandfalds-armatur, der giver en udsøgt badeoplevelse. Generelt er alle elementer fra møbler til de mindste detaljer
gennemtænkt og af højeste standard. Da hvert fjeldværelses yderste væg, inklusive døren, er af glas, kan man nyde naturen, der på denne måde har en konstant tilstedeværelse og er en stor del af oplevelsen. I sommerhalvåret kan man køre en udendørs persienne ned for solen. Vil man være helt uforstyrret eller lukke de lyse sommernætter ude, lukkes persiennerne og gar-
VERDEN SKAL EROBRES! Vi glæder os til at udfordre dig!
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dinet trækkes for, men ellers er det svært at få øjnene fra naturen, der »trænger sig på« udefra på den mest positive måde. Elsker man naturen, men ikke livet i et shelter, findes der næppe en mere luksuriøs naturoplevelse end de nye værelser på Hotel Arctic i Ilulissat.
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28 2016
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erhverv / business
Like living out in the fells Hotel Arctic in Ilulissat has expanded with five new outdoor rooms, where you feel you are living out in the fells, despite being surrounded by the finest luxury, hotel rooms can offer Text & Photo: greenland today
If you want to get really close to nature, but still keep warm, Hotel Arctic’s new rooms can give you an exceptional experience. Here, you can sit on your own patio or relax on an ultra modern adjustable bed and look out onto the ice fjord. The rooms are built into the footing of one of the hotel’s newer wings, where the other rooms have the same 60
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phenomenal views. But what makes the outdoor rooms unique is that they all have a separate entrance from the fells and each room has its own small patio. You can sit here and enjoy the sun’s passage over the ice fjord with a cup of coffee from the room’s own Nespresso machine or with a glass of wine from the refrigerator.
Total experience The newest technology has been used in the bathroom, where a glass screen becomes opaque at the push of a button. The toilet also serves as a bidet and the light in the mirror turns on and off without contact. The shower head is of the waterfall type, providing an exquisite bathing experience.
Overall, every element, from the furniture to the smallest detail, is well-thought out and of the highest standard. The outer wall of each outdoor room, including the door, is made of glass, so you can enjoy nature all the time and this constant presence of nature is a major part of the experience.
PROMOTE GREENLAND
In the summer months you can roll down an external venetian blind to shade for the sun. For privacy, or to shut out the light of the summer nights, you can close the blinds and pull the curtains, but otherwise it is hard to take your eyes from nature that »intrudes« from the outside in the most positive way.
If you love nature, but living in a shelter is not quite your thing, there is hardly a more luxurious way to experience nature than the new outdoor rooms at Hotel Arctic in Ilulissat.
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mad / food
Kulinarisk ambassadør Den tredobbelte Grønlandsmester for kokke, 29-årige Inunnguaq Hegelund, er på vej rundt i Grønland, Danmark og USA Tekst: greenland today
Der har været fart på den grønlandske mesterkok Inunnguaq Hegelund, siden han startede i lære på Hotel Arctic. Først vandt han grønlandsmesterskaberne for kokkeelever, og efter han blev udlært i 2009, har han hele tre gange hentet trofæet hjem som Grønlands bedste kok. Sidste år stoppede han på Hotel Arctic for at prøve livet som »event-kok«, og siden har han rejst rundt i Grønland. Han har blandt andet været en måned i Kangerlussuaq og lavet »fra jord til bord« med de unge på børnehjemmet der. Sammen fiskede de ørreder og skød både moskusokser og rensdyr, der blev tilberedt og serveret med urter fra fjeldet. Ud i verden Til oktober går turen til USA, hvor han i en uge skal stå for menuen på »Re62
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staurant Vinland« i Portland, Maine. Her er de kendt for at lave ærlig mad og traditionelle tilberedninger kun med økologiske lokale råvarer. Det er den amerikanske kok, David Levy, der blandt har arbejdet på noma, som har taget kontakt til Inunnguaq. - Det bliver ikke mad med grønlandske råvarer, for så afviger vi fra konceptet, som de kører 100% Lokalt og økologisk, men jeg vil prøve at indtænke vores metoder i forberedelsen af den mad, vi skal servere, forklarer Inunnguaq. - Senere skal jeg lave »popup-menu« på det århusianske spisested »Frederiksgade« en uge i starten af november. Der er også andre steder, som jeg er i kontakt med, blandt andet Det Grønlandske Hus i København samt Michelinrestauranten Frederikshøj, hvor der også vil komme nogle events, siger han.
Fremtiden - Jeg arbejder for, at Grønland bliver mere kendt for sine råvarer i fremtiden, så vi får mere omtale og fokus på landet. Hvis man behandler vores fantastiske råvarer med respekt, kan man få de mest vidunderlige ting ud af dem, siger han. Hvad der skal ske i fremtiden, ved Inunnguaq ikke, men han savner indimellem at arbejde i restaurant. - Jeg har masser af ideer og kontakter, men har ikke nogen fast plan. - Det er sjovt, det jeg laver nu med spændende projekter. Så må vi se, hvad der sker i fremtiden, slutter Inunnguaq Hegelund og haster videre til et møde på Skype med endnu en interesseret restaurant. Kontakt ihegelund@hotmail.com
Culinary ambassador The three-time Greenland cooking champion, 29 year old Inunnguaq Hegelund, is on his way round Greenland, Denmark and the USA Text: greenland today
Greenland cooking champion Inunnguaq Hegelund has not slowed down since he started as a trainee at Hotel Arctic. First, he won the Greenland championship for trainee cooks and later, after he qualified in 2009, he won the trophy for best cook in Greenland three times. He left Hotel Arctic last year to try life as an »event-cook« and since then he has travelled round Greenland. He spent a month in Kangerlussuaq and did »from fjord to fork« with the youngsters at the children’s home there. Together, they fished for Arctic char and shot musk-oxen and reindeer which were then cooked and served with herbs from the fells.
The world beckons He is going to the USA in October. Here, he will have responsibility for the menu at »Restaurant Vinland« in Portland, Maine for one week. The place is known for its straightforward food and traditional meals using only local, organic ingredients. It was the American cook, David Levy, who has worked at Noma, who contacted Inunnguaq. - It won’t be food with Greenlandic ingredients, because that would mean we didn’t adhere to the concept of using 100% local, organic ingredients, but I would like to incorporate our methods in the preparation of the food we serve, explains Inunnguaq. - Later on, at the beginning of November, I am going to spend a week doing a »Popup menu« at an eatery called »Frederiksgade« in Århus. I am also in touch with other places, such as the Greenlandic House in Copenhagen and the Michelin restaurant »Frederik-
høj« where there will be some events, he says. The future - I am working at creating awareness for Greenland’s food, so we get more publicity and more focus on the country. If you treat our wonderful produce with respect, you can make the most fantastic things, he says. Inunnguaq does not know what will happen in the future, but sometimes he misses working in a restaurant. - I have plenty of ideas and contacts, but no actual plans. - What I am doing now is fun and the projects are interesting. We will have to see what the future brings, concludes Inunnguaq Hegelund and rushes off to a Skype meeting with yet another interested restaurant. Contact ihegelund@hotmail.com
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Opskriften er beregnet til fire personer. This recipe serves four.
Krabbeballotine
med krabbebouillon
Tekst: greenland today
Anrettet med spinatcreme, saltet agurk, kålrabi og røget tang – pyntet med rød skovsyre En semikold ret præsenteret af Heine Knudsen, souschef i køkkenet på Hotel Arctic, Ilulissat, der er kendt langt ud64
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over Grønlands grænser for en fabelagtig beliggenhed samt for god service og et fremragende gourmetkøkken.
Ingredienser 3 krabbesider = 12-16 ben 3 løg 2 gulerødder ¼ knoldselleri 5 fed hvidløg 1 porre
Crab ballotine Text: greenland today
with crab bouillon
Served with creamed spinach, salted cucumber, kohlrabi and smoked seaweed – decorated with red sorrel This semi-cold dish is presented by Heine Knudsen, Sous Chef in the kitchen at Hotel Arctic, Ilulissat, which is famous beyond Greenland’s borders for its fabulous location, for its fine service and for its excellent gourmet kitchen. Ingredients 3 crab sides = 12-16 legs 3 onions 2 carrots ¼ celeriac 5 cloves of garlic 1 leek ¼ bunch of thyme 3 cloves of fermented garlic or 1 tsp purée 1 tsp whole peppercorns 4 bay leaves Parsley and dill stems, if you have them Decoration Thinly sliced kohlrabi
¼ bundt timian 3 fed fermenteret hvidløg eller en teskefuld puré 1 tsk peberkorn 4 laurbærblade stilke fra persille og dild, hvis du har det
Pynt Tyndtskårne skiver kålrabi Røget tang i papirtyndeskiver Rød skovsyre Krabbeballotine Krabbekødet trækkes ud fra kløerne og saltes let i en lille skål. Rul film ud på bordet, fordel krabbekødet på filmen, formes som en pølse, rulles stramt omkring til pølseform, sno den i begge ender stramt og fast, lægges på køl ca. ½ time. Skæres og filmen fjernes inden servering.
Smoked seaweed in paper-thin slices Red sorrel
Crab ballotine Pull the crab meat from the claws, put into a small bowl and salt lightly. Place a layer of cling film on the table; place the crab meat on the film in the shape of a sausage. Roll the film tightly around the crab, close each end tightly with a twist and place in the fridge for ½ hour. Slice and remove the film before serving.
to the stock together with carrots, garlic, leeks, celeriac, thyme, parsley and dill stalks, bay leaves, peppercorns and fermented garlic – or a little tomato paste (roasted/fried off).
Creamed spinach Blanche the spinach in salted water (dip in boiling water and then move immediately into ice water). Add a little bicarbonate of soda to the water to maintain colour. Squeeze the water out of the spinach and blend the spinach until it is creamy. Season with a little salt. This dish is primarily for festive occasions, because there is some food waste if you cannot use the rest of the vegetables, creamed spinach and cucumber.
Bouillon Fry the crab shells hard in a pan in a little oil until the surface is golden and slightly burned. Put the shells into a saucepan, cover with water, bring to the boil and skim off any scum. Halve the onions, place them on a pan and sear the cut side. Add these
Cucumber and kohlrabi Scoop out balls with a Parisienne scoop. Alternatively, cut thin strips with a peeler and roll them up to serve. Salt lightly to draw out moisture before serving.
Bouillon Skallerne fra krabberne steges hårdt af på panden til gylden og let brændt overflade i en lille smule olie. Skallerne puttes i gryde og dækkes med vand, koges op, skummes af for urenheder, halverede løg lægges på panden og brændes af på skæresiden, lægges i fonden, gulerødder, hvidløg, porrer, knoldselleri, timian, persille og dildstilke, laurbær, peberkorn, alm. hvidløg, fermenteret hvidløg – ellers lidt stegt tomatkoncentrat (ristet/brændt af).
man ikke kan bruge resterne af grøntsager, spinatcreme og agurk. Agurk og kålrabi Laves som kugler med et Parisienne jern (lille udhuler). Kan også være lange bånd, der laves med en skrællekniv og rulles op ved anretning. Saltes let og trækker lidt væde før anretning.
Spinat creme Spinat blancheres i saltet vand (ned i kogende vand, direkte op i isvand) evt. lidt natron i vandet for at holde farven. Vrides for væde. Blendes, indtil den bliver cremet, smages til med lidt salt . Retten er primært til festlige lejligheder, da der er en del madspild, hvis 28 2016
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Kultur / Culture
Grønlands største
pagga Tekst: greenland today, Foto: Irene Jeppson
I takt med at forstaden Qinngorput i Nuuk vokser, er behovet for flere indkøbsmuligheder steget. Derfor åbnede grønlandske Brugseni i september en ny butik i Nuuk forstaden, der i forvejen huser en købmandsbutik, skole og børneinstitution. Pagga Den grønlandske tradition pagga er et
udtryk for glæde, når man har noget at fejre. Det kan f.eks. være en nybagt mormor, der smider en masse mønter og råber »pagga«, hvorefter alle kravler rundt og samler op under stor munterhed. I forbindelse med åbningen af den nye Brugseni afdeling, holdt forretningen Grønlands største pagga hvor medarbejdere smed mønter og slik
med overraskelser. Hele dagen blev der ligeledes serveret kaffe, te og kage og balloner til børnene og buketter til de første 100 kunder. Eventen blev en stor succes med flere hundrede deltagende gæster i og udenfor butikken, og dermed kan man roligt kalde det Grønlands hidtil største pagga.
Greenland’s biggest
pagga
Text: greenland today, Photo: Irene Jeppson
As Nuuk’s suburb Qinngorput grows, so does the need for new places to shop. Greenland’s Brugseni therefore opened
a new shop in September in Nuuk’s suburb, which already has a grocer, a school and a day care centre.
DISCOVER THE SECRET GEM OF GREENLAND OPLEV GRØNLANDS HEMMELIGE PERLE
BOOK AT AUL.GL 66
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Pagga The Greenlandic tradition of pagga is an expression of joy when you have something to celebrate. It could e.g. be someone who has just become a grandparent. The person throws lots of coins into the air shouting »pagga«, after which everyone scrambles to collect the coins amid great hilarity. In connection with the opening of the new branch of Brugseni, the shop held Greenland’s biggest pagga, with employees throwing coins and candy with surprises. Coffee, tea and cake were served all day long and there were balloons for the children and bouquets of flowers for the first 100 customers. The event was a huge success, with several hundred visitors inside and outside the shop, so it can easily be called Greenland’s hitherto biggest pagga.
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The wonders of the Arctic Embrace the winter wonderland in Greenland! The snowy season opens up new worlds and new trails across an otherwise roadless land. We have packaged individual and inspiring tours that combine the best of the sights and the unique culture. With an experienced tour organizer, you can experience more than you think of this vast country. Look forward to unforgettable activities. And be prepared to lose your heart.
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