Explore!
Crossing into fall with an adventure agenda
Exhilarating chairlift rides | Color-tour drives | Ghostly brews | Hiking Detroit New nature preserves | Creative art classes
PLUS: Outstanding waterfront homes + cocktail-hour recipes
Wish you were here.
View more photos of this home!
“Coming to this development was the best decision we made. We both are very happy here and have two other couples, both friends of ours, building here now too!”
— Dari and Bob
View more photos of Molly’s home!
Meet Dari and Bob
This edition features Dari and Bob, a couple who chose to begin their retirement in the Macatawa Legends community. This Holland neighborhood proved the perfect place for them to relax and enjoy their new slow-paced lifestyle in the company of a community of friendly, welcoming neighbors.
With the help of Eastbrook Homes they were able to create their dream home in a location that that perfectly captured their vision! Learn more about Dari and Bob’s journey below.
How did you incorporate your family’s lifestyle?
We wanted to build something with just one floor, something smaller than what we had so we could spend less time cleaning and more time enjoying our retirement.
What is your decorating inspiration?
Modern and midcentury.
What do you love about your Eastbrook community?
We’ve met so many nice people experiencing the same changes as us, enjoying retirement which makes being here and away from where we lived before so much easier.
What are your favorite features in your home?
Screened porch, my big island and the open concept, the double fireplace. Just to name a few!
What was your Eastbrook Experience like?
It was a great experience. we had built two other houses, and this was by far the best experience. lots of communication which made building from out of town a lot easier and less stressful.
What does “home” mean to you?
Home is our place to share a good story, and make memories with friends and family. It’s coziness, love and laughter and a place filled with warmth and comfort. All at the same time!
Do you have any tips or tricks for new homeowners?
Make sure to make a list of everything you want to include because you most likely will forget something important.
If you’re interested in learning more about building or buying new with Eastbrook Homes, our team is here to help. Reach out today with your questions and dreams, and we’ll help turn them into a reality.
MORE 5 STAR REVIEWS THAN ANY DECK BUILDER IN MICHIGAN!
18-mile Bi-Path
100+ shipwrecks to snorkel, free-dive, or scuba
50+ Public parks for picnicking, hammocking, beaching
400+ million-year-old Devonian Period fossil expedition
“ ... the entire house opens up like arms to embrace the lake views.”
— CHARLES R. STINSON
50 Where Form Meets Function
Located on the shores of Spring Lake, near Grand Haven, this contemporary home makes a striking statement from all angles. By Anna
Bjorlin
60 Tunnels of Trees
Follow Michigan’s evolving fall palette on 10 scenic drives. By Bill
Semion
64 Cocktails at the Cottage Fast, fabulous, fun — and a symphony of sensory pleasures By Patty
LaNoue Stearns
70 Modern-Day Makeover
A stunning transformation gives a dated Bay Harbor residence a new identity. By Jeanine Matlow
78 Take It Easy
Get your fall color fi x at the Sunrise Side’s inviting state parks and beyond. By Amy S. Eckert
ON THE COVER
On U.S. 2, between Escanaba and St. Ignace, travelers can see stunning views of Lake Michigan and also can check out the 148-foot-tall Cut River Bridge. Refer to the “Tunnels of Trees” feature, beginning on page 60.
Photo courtesy of Pure Michigan
EXPLORE THE CHANGE.
The changing landscape of Ludington's unspoiled natural resources offers a quintessential “Up North” experience close by. Pure Ludington delivers the perfect combination of unrivaled outdoor recreation and quaint, small-town charm. With endless outdoor experiences, craft beer festivals and fall lodging specials like 50% off a second night stay, now is the time to get up and go.
WATERWAYS
20 Sky, Sand & Surf
A new nature center, preserving the Keweenaw area, and chairlift rides glide above the fall colors.
By Giuseppa Nadrowski, Bill Semion, and Mark Spezia
26 Get Outdoors
Expedition Detroit showcases hikes, and three covered bridges are extra pretty in autumn. By Giuseppa Nadrowski and Dianna Stampfler
32 Page-Turner
The Au Sable River influences writer Thomas Buhr’s new books. By Tracy Donohue
34 Staff Picks
From islands to boat rides, these 10 northwest Michigan (and beyond) spots are fun to explore.
36 Headwaters
The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum impresses guests. By Mark Spezia
DESIGN CURRENTS
40 Studio Visit
An artist puts her print on East Tawas’ art scene with a light-filled studio and classroom. By Megan Swoyer
44 Design Star
A Grosse Ile-based online interior design consultant shares tips on creating one of her favorite rooms. By Megan Swoyer
46 The Elements
Does your great room need a simple makeover? Mix and match these tables, trays, and ottomans. By Jamie Fabbri
“(Turtle Cove Nature Preserve’s) trail follows varied topography ... ” — STEVE LAGERQUIST
ANCHORS AWAY
84 Tasting Room
There’s some spooky history behind west Michigan’s Ghost Isle Brewery. By Dianna Stampfler
86 Dining Out
Brandy’s Harbortown features four distinct kitchens and a wonderful waterfront cabana. By Megan Swoyer
88 Book It
The Terrace Inn’s new owner is maintaining and restoring the hotel’s historic charms. By Megan Swoyer
90 Discoveries
Five new nature preserves, located from Traverse City to Allegan, await explorers. By Mark Spezia
IN EVERY ISSUE
16 Reflections
In the Neighborhood. By Megan Swoyer
96 Postcard
A writer floats down memory lane at the 150-year-old Little Sable Point Lighthouse. By Patty LaNoue Stearns
In the Neighborhood
The last time I hosted some women friends at our cottage, one of our plans was to grill up some burgers for dinner — but our old grill was acting up. I asked our neighbor if he could help me light it, and wondered if he might be able to tell if there was something wrong with it. He said he could fix my grill, but he also said, “You’re welcome to use mine. It can accommodate more burgers and it’s easy to use.” So that’s what I did. “Wow,” my friends said. “Everyone needs a neighbor like that.”
On another evening, that same neighbor o ered us the use of his pontoon when he noticed my husband and I were entertaining some friends for the weekend. Canoes and kayaks are great, and so are croquet and hiking, but a relaxing pontoon ride sure would be the icing on the cake, I thought, as he dangled the keys in front of us.
Of course, we took him up on his o er and enjoyed cruising around our lake for a couple hours. We were having such a good time that, before we knew it, it grew dark. Michigan dark. We quickly became disoriented and couldn’t find our way back to the dock. A cell phone call to our neighbor (an embarrassing exchange, at that), and 10 minutes later he was hoisting a light on his dock, and waving and signaling into the night, hoping we’d see him. We did.
ready to tow us home. “You’re not a boat owner until this happens!” he yelled to us. Our a able, ready-to-assist neighbor won’t take money for any of these favors, but we can often cajole him into a happy hour beverage (I’m reminded to try the recipes in this issue at our next cocktail gathering!) or a steak dinner out on us. Sometimes a gift card is just the ticket. Years earlier, another neighbor, who has since passed, would help us put our dock in every spring. He’d arrive at our door before we would even ask for help. A 12-pack of Pepsi was all he’d ever take in exchange for his annual commitment.
Do you know your neighbors? Even if they’re located down the beach, do you wave to each other when you boat by? Try it. Connections can be made with just a head nod or a wave.
My husband and I recently hosted a dinner at our downstate home for some of our neighbors. Former next-door neighbors were on the invite list, too. I posted a few photos on Facebook afterward and the comments were so revealing. “What a nice idea. I find neighbors don’t do that anymore. Everyone stays to themselves.”
This is also the man who o ered to help us install our microwave above the oven (it meant redesigning cupboards), hauled out an old water heater and helped put in a new one, and came to the rescue when our furnace broke down during a winter visit. “You can stay at our place; you know where the key is. Or I can come up and help you install a new one,” he o ered. He was there the next day, and installed a new furnace and smart thermostat!
Most recently, our pontoon was on the fritz, unbeknownst to us, and after watching a lovely display of Fourth of July fireworks a few miles down the beach, we found ourselves floating wearily amid the eerie quiet. Who did we call? You know who! In seconds, that saint and his lovely wife appeared in their boat,
“Can I be your neighbor?”
“That’s what life is all about.”
Our Design Star in this issue, Vanessa Chaverri-Gratz, senses the importance of good neighbors. When she and her husband moved to Grosse Ile, just a few steps from the Detroit River, she was pining not only to live in a four-season state near water (they were living in Texas), but she also wanted to feel like a part of something. She shared with me that Grosse Ile is a friendly community that’s quiet and feels rural.
“People in Grosse Ile are neighborly, and they look out for each other,” she says. I knew exactly what she meant.
Our old grill has since been replaced. The next time the girls come up, I’ll be flipping burgers on a bright, shiny new one, and I likely won’t need help from my neighbor. But, of course, when you own a boat — now, what’s that saying again?
Volume 19 | Issue 4 mibluemag.com
PUBLISHER: Jason Hosko
EDITORIAL
EDITOR: Megan Swoyer
TRAVEL EDITOR: Ron Garbinski
COPY EDITOR: Anne Berry Daugherty
WRITERS/STYLISTS: Anna Bjorlin, Tracy Donohue, Amy S. Eckert, Jamie Fabbri, Jeanine Matlow, Patty LaNoue Stearns, Giuseppa Nadrowski, Bill Semion, Mark Spezia, Dianna Stampfler
DESIGN & PRODUCTION
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Lindsay Richards
ART DIRECTOR: Keagan Coop
PRODUCTION MANAGER: Crystal Nelson
SENIOR PRODUCTION ARTIST: Stephanie Daniel
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR: Amanda Kozlowski
CONTRIBUTORS: Corey Gaffer Photography, Brad and Todd Reed Photography, Beth Singer
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CIRCULATION
DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT: Geralyn Wilson
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Michigan BLUE magazine is published quarterly by Hour Media. Publishing office: 5750 New King Dr., Suite 100 Troy, MI 48098. Telephone 616-459-4545; fax 616- 459-4800. General email: info@hour-media.com Copyright ©2024 by Hour Media. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Michigan BLUE magazine,1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. Subscription rates: one year $14.95, two years $24.95, three years $34.95, U.S. only. Single issue and newsstand $5.95 (by mail $8.95). To subscribe or to order back issues, please contact Circulation at 866660-6247. Advertising rates and specifications at mibluemag.com or by request. Michigan BLUE magazine is not responsible for unsolicited contributions.
LIVE THE CLASSIC
THE BRAND-NEW COTTAGE HOMES
at Covenant Living of the Great Lakes Classic neighborhood experiences will blend perfectly with the convenience and security of modern senior living in our brand new Cottage Home neighborhood. Welcoming front porches and beautifully landscaped walkways will have you enjoying a warm community feel. Maintenance-free living with easy access to fabulous amenities (including on-site health care if ever needed) will have you enjoying the privacy of your very own home— without the headaches of homeownership.
Cottage Home Features:
• Two-bedroom and two-bedroom with den designs
• Large open-concept floor plans
• Welcoming front porches
• Private garages
• Your choice of individual options to customize your new home
Find your ESCAPE
Fall in South Haven is a delightful experience, offering a perfect blend of serene nature and pleasant weather. With the changing colors of leaves, the surrounding landscapes create a picturesque setting for outdoor enthusiasts. Enjoy cozy evenings around campfires, crisp mornings by Lake Michigan, and numerous outdoor activities like hiking and biking on the nearby trails. The quieter ambiance of the season provides an ideal opportunity to unwind and connect with nature, making it a cherished memory for anyone seeking an autumnal escape.
WATERWAYS
20 Sky, Sand & Surf
A new nature center on Mackinac Island, preserving the Keweenaw area, and chairlift rides that highlight autumn.
The Fallasburg Bridge is one of three covered bridges in Michigan open to vehicle traffic. It spans the Flat River and is located in Lowell. See “Get Outdoors.”
26 Get Outdoors
Expedition Detroit showcases some great hikes, and three covered bridges are extra pretty come fall.
32 Page-Turner
The Au Sable River’s charms influenced writer Thomas Buhr’s latest collection of books.
34 Staff Picks
From island vistas to a fascinating U.P. nature preserve, check out these top 10 favorites in the northwest.
36 Headwaters
The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum team keeps guests entertained with fascinating nautical insights.
FIELD GUIDE
Exploring Michigan: Tips, trends, and tidbits
Swimmingly Smart: Grand Haven State Park installed a $570,000 SwimSmart electronic beach safety system to monitor rapidly-changing conditions along its Lake Michigan beachfront. With 12 web-enabled towers, it provides real-time warnings to beachgoers. Eight orange towers on the beach feature an electronic light display that mimics the familiar double-red, red, yellow, and green flag system. Four blue light towers are equipped with an emergency response button and more. michigan.gov/beachsafety
Sensory Certification: As part of a greater Traverse City-area initiative involving more than 20 partners, Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville is the first fourseason resort in Michigan to become a Certified Autism Center. Its staff completed specialized autism-specific training and the designation was awarded based on its amenities for and commitment to accommodating autistic and sensorysensitive individuals. autismtravel.com
Growing Impact: Figures reported by the Michigan DNR show the state’s forest products industry hit a new peak and added $26.5 billion to the state’s economy, up $4 billion from 2019 figures. While employment declined 3.6 percent, the average wage ($80,000), labor income, output, and industry productivity increased significantly. The industry includes forestry and logging, wood furniture, pulp, paper, paperboard products, and woody biomass power generation. Visit the forest products page at michigan.gov/dnr
– Compiled by Ron Garbinski
Have news about Michigan travel and exploration? Send a note to MSwoyer@Hour-Media.com.
Getting to Know Arch Rock
New nature center spotlights
Mackinac Island’s famous limestone formation
By Giuseppa Nadrowski
Astop at Mackinac Island’s most treasured geological feature and one of its most visited attractions — Arch Rock — has been enhanced by the new $7.5-million Milliken Nature Center.
The facility gives visitors an opportunity to learn about the picturesque rock formation from a variety of Mackinac Island State Historic Parks information sources, including a topographical 3-D map of the island, geological highlights, and ongoing exhibits. A video, “Arch Rock: Unsurpassed in Nature’s Beauty,” highlights the historic journey of what was once called the “Jewel of the Mackinac National Park” through images, timelines, and more.
“This augments a visit to Arch Rock,” says Mackinac Island State Historic Parks Director Steve Brisson. “It gives visitors a little knowledge, a few things to think about, and a greater appreciation for what they’re seeing at Arch Rock and throughout the park.”
The new complex, which opened in June near the iconic limestone formation, replaces a more than 50-year-old, out-of-date restroom facility on the arch’s plaza. The new facility also boasts universally accessible features.
“It’s a place to relax as you’re touring the island by horse, foot, or bicycle. There are areas for sitting and a lovely deck on the
PLAN
IT!
Mackinac State Historic Parks mackinacparks.com
back,” Brisson adds. “It’s a place to rest (and) fill up your water bottle, and there are some outlets available to charge your phone so you can continue to take pictures as you’re touring the park.”
Named after former Michigan Gov. William G. Milliken, the nature center features a bronze bust of the Traverse City native. Milliken served as governor from 1969 to 1983, and spent many days at both the state-funded governor’s summer residence on the island and his personal cottage in Hubbard’s Annex. In 1976, Milliken hosted President Gerald R. Ford on the island; Ford is the only sitting president to ever visit the Michigan landmark.
The metal-roof structure blends into its natural setting and is a welcome repose for visitors. Designed by TowerPinkster of Grand Rapids and constructed by Spence Brothers of Traverse City, the center strikes a stunning and sustainable picture thanks to its stone and cedar details.
“The architects were really good at listening to us and kind of studying the area and what our rock meant,” Brisson says. “We wanted it to blend in, but not be camouflaged and disappear.”
Mackinac State Historic Parks, with nine historic ticketed attractions on the island and around Mackinaw City, is a self-funded organization with minor funding coming from state appropriations. It generates revenue from tickets, admissions, its stores, and other activities. It’s also supported by the generosity of Mackinac Associates, a nonprofit membership group focused on preserving Mackinac’s heritage.
Preserving the Keweenaw
The Nature Conservancy, in a unique partnership, ensures the future of a Michigan treasure
By Bill Semion
Aone-of-a-kind conservation partnership spearheaded by The Nature Conservancy guarantees that about 32,000 acres of unique forest, Lake Superior shoreline, wetlands, and inland lakes will remain available for all to enjoy in the Upper Peninsula’s Keweenaw Peninsula.
The effort is seen as a possible model for similar partnerships throughout the country.
In 2022, the Conservancy purchased 32,500 acres, named the Keweenaw Heartlands, from an investment company when concerns arose that the property, which had just come up for sale, could be broken up, sold, closed to the public, or become off-limits for recreational use, severely affecting local tax revenue and tourism.
Within that $39.1 million buy was some of the oldest rock in the world, including a portion of one of the world’s largest lava flows, which had fueled the U.P.’s copper boom that lasted 120 years and is celebrated throughout the peninsula by the Keweenaw National Historical Park.
MORE DETAILS!
Keweenaw Heartlands Project keweenawcommunityfoundation.org
The Conservancy developed a plan to hold only temporary ownership. It is working with state and local governments and other groups to create a special governmental entity to ensure, as TNC Keweenaw Peninsula project manager Julia Petersen explains, that all users — from sustainable commercial lumbering companies to hunters, ATV and mountain bike riders, birders, and local residents — can enjoy the protected natural and cultural features within its boundary, while
making sure the land continues to provide tax revenue.
“The Conservancy was founded in 1951, and our mission is focused on conserving lands and waters on which all life depends, including the human component,” Petersen says. “This is all of those things. We have a footprint in the region already, with about 3,000 acres of preserves. We purchased this with the understanding that we were an interim owner. Working with our partners, including the DNR, local townships, the Keweenaw Bay Indian Community, and other groups, we were buying them time.”
Time to preserve, plan, and make sure the land remains as it is: useful to all. Once the future Heartland entity is authorized by state statute and local governments, and the governing body is created, TNC’s job will be on the way to being finished.
“Our overall goal is a healthy, intact forest, so we have a better ecosystem so people can enjoy a beautiful place. The scope is large. We hope this can be replicated elsewhere, so people who are facing the same challenge of large tracts of forest coming up for sale can learn and bring their local forests into local control,” Petersen says.
TOP LAWYERS MICHIGAN FAMILY
BASED UPON A SURVEY OF THEIR PEERS
These LEADING LAWYERS have been recommended by their peers to be among the TOP LAWYERS in Michigan.
John J. Schrot Jr. Berr y Moorman PC Birmingham 248.645.9680 Family
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Laura E. Eisenberg Eisenberg & Spilman PLLC Birmingham 248.358.8880 Family; ADR: Family
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Kellie S. Devito Giarmarco Mullins & Horton PC Troy
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Sandra User Green Green & Green PLLC Farmington Hills 248.932.0500 Family
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These EMERGING LAWYERS have been identified by their peers to be among the TOP LAWYERS in Michigan who are age 40 or younger OR who have been admitted to the practice of law for 10 or fewer years.
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First there’s an 810-foot chairlift journey to the crest of the hill, then there’s an 18-story elevator ride to the top of the Copper Peak ski-flying hill in Ironwood. The views from 1,180 feet above Lake Superior are simply stunning and something to add to your Michigan adventure bucket list.
PLAN IT!
Mount Bohemia mtbohemia.com
Porcupine Mountains
Wilderness State Park michigan.gov/skitheporkies
Copper Peak copperpeak.net
Crystal Mountain Resort crystalmountain.com
Boyne Resorts boyneresorts.com
Shanty Creek Resort shantycreek.com
Hop aboard an unforgettable chairlift ride at the following iconic state ski resorts and watch as a vibrant panorama of autumn hues expands ever wider as you approach the top. Once there, disembark and soak in a 360-degree panorama of nature’s colorful splendor.
Mount Bohemia
Mesmerizing Rides
Take a seat on a chairlift to experience some of the most breathtaking views of Michigan’s blazing fall colors
By Mark Spezia
Boasting one of the Midwest’s tallest vertical drops at 900 feet, and topping out at 1,465 feet above sea level, the 1,100acre Mount Bohemia resort in Mohawk — famous for extreme skiing — o ers perhaps the state’s most dramatic fall chairlift views.
A mix of cottonwood, birch, and maple trees, among other hardwoods, provides an eye-popping landscape of color that spreads across gullies and ravines. The radiant foliage is showcased beautifully against the deep blue of Lac La Belle, Lake Gratiot, Deer Lake, and, of course, Lake Superior. Explore the many trails at the top before riding back down.
“Chairlift riders are high up and experience a crazy, vibrant landscape you don’t see in many places in the Midwest,” Mount Bohemia owner Lonie Glieberman says. “They’re able to see the steep hills blazing around us with fall color, and experience great views of Lake Superior and several inland bodies of water.”
While you’re in the area, be sure to catch another legendary autumn vista at nearby Brockway Mountain.
Porcupine Mountains
Wilderness State Park
Sweeping views of the park’s wild and scenic 59,000 acres are best enjoyed via a chairlift ride to the top of the Porkies’ Winter Sports Complex ski hill in Ontonagon. Riders often opt to hike back down to the parking lot.
“The ride is slow and peaceful, with only the hum of the lift and the occasional rustle of leaves,” says Scott Lawrence, of the Porcupine Mountains Ontonagon Area Convention and Visitors Bureau.
“Once you’re closer to the top, you’ll be able to catch glimpses of Lake Superior in the distance. The colorful foliage extends in all directions, creating a brilliant contrast with the green grass below.”
The Porcupine Mountains are also home to two of the state’s most popular fall color overlooks: Lake of the Clouds and the Summit Peak Observation Tower.
Copper
Peak
The 810-foot chairlift ride is only the beginning of a journey to the Midwest’s highest fall color vantage point atop the 26-story Copper Peak ski flying hill structure in Ironwood.
Disembark from the chairlift at the crest of the hill, a 360-foot volcanic rock outcrop. From there, an 18-story elevator ride ends at the main observation deck. The very top is still an eight-story climb away, first on wooden steps and then over see-through metal grate stairs. The upper observation platform is 1,782 feet above sea level and 1,180 feet above Lake Superior.
You’ll enjoy stunning views spanning nearly 40 miles in every direction as the mixed conifers and hardwoods of the Ottawa National Forest and the Black River National Scenic Byway pop with vibrant color.
Lake Superior, The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, and Porcupine Mountain Wilderness State Park are among the sights. Bring binoculars for views of Isle Royale National Park and Grand Marais.
“Copper Peak is one of those bucket list places that, once you experience it, you’ll end up bringing your mom and dad, then your friends, and everyone you know,” says Ironwood Community Development Assistant Tim Erickson.
Crystal Mountain
A relaxing ride up the nearly 400 feet on the Buck Quad Chairlift leads to views of vivid fall colors surrounding the four-season, 1,500-acre resort in Thompsonville.
“At the top, riders look over fall colors in Benzie, Manistee, Wexford, and Grand Traverse counties, and it’s a great way to get outside to breathe in the crisp fresh air of northern Michigan,” says Crystal Mountain Director of Communications Brittney Primeau.
Boyne Mountain/The Highlands
At Boyne Mountain in Boyne Falls, the Hemlock chairlift takes riders to a picturesque view overlooking the Boyne Valley. Options at the top include walking over to one of the state’s newest exhilarating autumn viewing experiences: SkyBridge Michigan, a 1,200-foot-long, 118-foothigh timber-towered pedestrian bridge that opened in 2022.
Trails and the Eagle’s Nest, a restaurant with a fireplace where you can purchase food and drinks, can be accessed from the chairlift.
At The Highlands in Harbor Springs, the Heather Express chairlift takes riders through the tree canopy, and you can take in sweeping views of Little Traverse
Bay and inland lakes. Harbor Springs and Petoskey can also be seen. From the top, check out the enchanting Graham Chapel or hike over to North Peak, where you can see the Mackinac Bridge on clear days.
“At both of our resorts, there are great options to explore hiking trails and riders can even bring mountain bikes up the lift to ride miles of trails,” says Boyne Resorts Director of Communications Erin Ernst.
Shanty Creek Resort
Take in amazing views on the blue chairlift while riding to the summit of Schuss Mountain, one of the highest points in Antrim County. There’s plenty to see at the top, including Lake Bellaire and the area’s famous Chain of Lakes.
“Our chairlift is a unique and serene way to view the stunning transformation of nature. It’s a perfect activity for families, couples, and nature enthusiasts who want to soak in the rich hues of the season from a vantage point like no other,” says Shanty Creek Resort Marketing Director Lindsey Southwell.
For more color, check out nearby Deadman’s Hill Overlook and its views of the Jordan River Valley.
Hit the Trails
Expedition Detroit showcases the metro region as a gateway to world-class outdoor recreation
By Giuseppa Nadrowski
There are 11 state parks within about an hour’s drive of metro Detroit. For many people, that may come as a welcoming surprise — which is why Dan Cooke began Expedition Detroit, a one-stop destination for all things outdoors in the state’s southeast region.
The company offers guided adventures as well as advocacy and volunteer programs, and includes content that’s replete with tips and tricks for local enthusiasts.
Launched in 2022, Expedition Detroit provides strategic marketing for organizations, companies, mom-and-pop shops, and larger retailers that are either based within the Detroit region or are trying to market to the region. “We also provide guided hiking, trail running, snowshoeing, backpacking, and night hiking trips,” Cooke says. “Our guided hikes are affiliated with the state parks, so a percentage of the revenue generated directly benefits our state parks, trails, and waterways.”
An avid outdoorsman since his youth, Cooke, a Detroit-based lawyer and native of Washington, D.C., with family roots in Michigan, would often travel with his friends across the country or overseas in search of their next extreme adventure. Then the pandemic hit.
“When COVID happened, we had no idea when our next backpacking trip would be. We had no idea when we’d even be able to leave the country again,” he says. “We just felt like we couldn’t scratch that itch.”
So, Cooke and his friends decided to explore the metro Detroit area’s local state and metro parks. “To our pleasant surprise, they weren’t only very good, they were amazing. I got to explore all these campgrounds, trails, rivers, and new parks that I’d always heard about.”
As the year progressed, Cooke and his friends continued to explore and discover all that the region has to offer. Then, “a light bulb went off,” he says. “If anyone should know that these places exist and how valuable they are, it should have been us — and we had no idea. So, if we didn’t know about these places, we wondered who else didn’t.”
and historical references.
That’s when Expedition Detroit was born, based on Cooke’s belief that most people don’t view Detroit as a gateway to world-class outdoor recreation.
The company offers guided adventures in all four seasons. It has multiple guides, trips for all skill levels, and a passion to spread awareness of the incredible outdoor opportunities in the region.
While Maybury State Park in Northville and Detroit’s Belle Isle are two of Expedition Detroit’s most popular destinations, there are many other not-to-miss locations, such as beginner hikes on the Penosha Trail in Brighton Recreation Area, expert-level mountain biking at a celebrated loop in the Pontiac Lake State Recreation Area, or moderate-level hiking trips to Highland State Recreation Area’s 1,160-foot-tall Mount Kanzer.
Expedition Detroit even offers the ability to conquer one of the Detroit region’s Black Diamond-rated hiking trails: the Highland State Recreation Area’s A-B-C-D Loops.
Dearborn resident Wendy DeLozier, who Cooke calls “our all-star tour participant,” experienced her first trip with Expedition Detroit last winter. In search of a new adventure to try, she stumbled upon the company’s guided tours. “When I read what it was about, I was like, this sounds
great because it’s all about taking a tour with somebody who understands or has hiked a trail,” the 54-year-old says.
DeLozier’s first tour was a night hike in Maybury State Park on a cold, snow-covered January evening. Other participants had canceled their reservations due to the weather.
“Being out in the nighttime with the snow was really peaceful,” she says. “I learned a lot about Maybury. I never knew that it was a tuberculosis hospital location. Dan told me a lot about the history of the park.”
Within a few weeks, she joined three more trips at various parks, including a five-hour hike through Pontiac Lake’s MTB trail. “Expedition Detroit brought my attention to how many different trails there are locally,” DeLozier says. “Dan’s just the nicest guy. So, to me, just to spend time in nature and to learn a little bit more about our culture and about Michigan is pretty cool.”
Ross Sandelius agrees. Wanting to get back into fitness and to explore the outdoors, he went on an impromptu hiking trip
last year and quickly realized he wanted to do — and learn — more. “I love hiking and I’m discovering biking, but I also eventually aspire to go backpacking and camping, so I was just kind of doing some searching online and ran across Expedition Detroit.”
His first trip also was a night hike at Maybury. “The outing was fantastic and it was a great overview of the park’s extensive history,” the 42-year-old Ferndale resident says. “Dan pointed out a lot of things about wildlife in the park, and what his experiences were and what you could look out for. Plus, it was very cool to be out in the woods at night, hiking.”
Cooke plans to expand the company’s members-only subscription service and offer more guided adventures. “We just (had) our largest group ever — a 20-person trip to Belle Isle. It was amazing to have a group that size and feel like everyone was dialed in.”
Wooden Wonders
Three historic covered bridges — and a new canopy walk — are especially stunning in autumn
By Dianna Stampfler
Built out of necessity throughout the 19th century, covered bridges allowed farmers and country residents to cross rivers and streams that separated rural areas from urban centers. It was widely believed that when building or repairing these structures, it was easier to climb on the rooftops and replace shingles than it was to battle the currents while repairing floorboards and walls from the water.
Today, Michigan’s covered bridges are recognized as symbols of history, romance, and nostalgia. In the Grand Rapids area, three rustic and historically recognized covered bridges are popular stops on fall color tours.
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All three covered bridges are listed as Michigan State Historic Sites. Ada and Fallasburg also are listed with the National Register of Historic Places.
Michigan Covered Bridges facebook.com/micoveredbridges
Hidden Lake Gardens
ipf.msu.edu/hidden-lake-gardens
The Ada Bridge connects the vibrant village’s shops and eateries to Leonard Park. The area is a great destination for history buffs.
Ada Bridge
Once known as the Bradfield Bridge, after early businessman Edward Bradfield, the 125-foot-long Ada Bridge opened on July 7, 1867.
The ever-changing waters of the Thornapple River wreaked havoc on the bridge, and flooding in 1904 and 1905 nearly wiped out the wooden structure. It is said farmers would line wagons loaded with stones onto the bridge to hold it in place. There were also times when the sideboards were removed, allowing the water to flow through the bridge instead of dislodging it from its foundation.
Closed to automobile traffic in 1930, the Ada Bridge saw a series of restorations over the decades, including in 1979 when
heavy snow collapsed the roof. Shortly after those major repairs were completed, arsonists set fire to the centennial structure, leaving nothing but charred ruins. Ada locals rallied to rebuild their beloved pedestrian bridge, which today connects the vibrant village — with all its shops and eateries — to Leonard Park, which is home to a softball field, a riverside deck, a walking/bike path, and restrooms.
For an additional glimpse at Ada’s past, look for the red house at 7504 Thornapple River Drive SE, across the road from the park. This was where Edward Bradfield lived and operated his mill, and farmers would gather to sell their crops. The small red window to the right side of the front door was where he would issue payments.
Fallasburg Bridge
New York brothers John W. and Silas Fallas arrived in eastern Kent County in the 1830s and quickly set out to establish a village along the Flat River. The community still bears their name: Fallasburg.
Several of the early structures remain in this quaint historical village, including John’s house, the 1867 one-room school, and a 100-foot-long covered bridge, constructed in 1871 for $1,500 to replace an 1840 bridge that had been destroyed by spring flooding and ice jams.
The bridge’s original wooden abutments were replaced with concrete ones in the early 1900s and major repairs were completed in 1945 and 1994, but what stands today is an authentic piece of history. At 153 years old, it’s the oldest covered bridge in Michigan and one of the few still open to automobile tra c. Drivers should heed the posted warning of a “$5 fine for riding or driving on this bridge faster than a walk.”
Fallasburg Bridge is just one of the many unique sites within the 324-acre Fallasburg County Park. First established in 1928, this park features five picnic areas, historic ball fields (once home to the Fallasburg Cubs), playgrounds, a disc golf course, and a 1930s-era shelter house that’s perfect for small group gatherings. The Fallasburg Historical Society periodically opens its buildings to the public for
tours. The North Country National Scenic Trail, with headquarters in nearby Lowell, stretches for 4,600 miles from New York to North Dakota, and a segment of the trail passes through Fallasburg Park.
White’s Bridge
The first bridge at White’s Crossing, which spans the Flat River in Ionia County’s Keene Township, was a floating log/ corduroy-style unit. In November 1845, the highway commissioners of Keene and Otisco townships “let the job of building
a bridge across Flat River at the Cutler place to Ambrose Spencer for $79 ($3,000 today).” This first primitive bridge was later destroyed by a spring ice jam, much like other bridges in the area.
Rev. Levi T. White built the second bridge in 1856 for $250 and, ever since, the bridges here have been named for him. The second bridge was also lost to ice in the spring of 1869.
Residents of nearby Smyrna then decided it was time to erect a more substantial structure. The second White’s Bridge was completed in just 84 days — using man, ox, and horsepower — for a cost of $1,000, which was due in 1870, and another $700 that was paid the year after. However, when it was discovered that the floor of the 116.5-foot bridge had been planked with secondhand lumber riddled with auger holes, the townspeople deducted $25 from the first installment.
For 144 years, the third bridge at White’s Crossing, and the second named White’s Bridge, stood proudly, and thousands of vehicles crossed its threshold. Then, on July 7, 2013, the entire structure was engulfed in flames at the hands of an
Elevated Bridge
For a different kind of bridge experience, head to Tipton in Lenawee County, near the state line, to explore one of Michigan’s lesser-known gems.
arsonist. In a flash, Michigan’s oldest original construction covered bridge was gone (that title now belongs to Fallasburg).
Three years later, approval was granted to rebuild a replica bridge. It took seven years and more than $600,000 raised from various financial grants, funds, and foundations to complete the process; the newest White’s Bridge opened in 2020.
Those who want to view White’s and Fallasburg bridges from the water can experience a 2.5-mile leisurely paddle between the two along the scenic Flat River.
Last summer, the 755-acre Hidden Lake Gardens — which is owned and operated by Michigan State University — opened its $1.25 million Reach for the Sky Canopy Walk. It’s constructed of southern yellow pine and pressure-treated lumber that’s meant to meld with the secluded woodland landscape and allow visitors, including families with kids in strollers or wagons, to immerse themselves in the natural surroundings.
The canopy walk, which towers 65 feet above the ground at its highest peak, stretches 726 feet, and encompasses two spans of a 374-foot suspension bridge. At every step along the way, visitors experience a 360-degree bird’s-eye view of picturesque topography, including a deep glacial kettle and a variety of wildlife.
“You’ll love the fall vibes,” says Jessica Goodrich, marketing and publicity coordinator for the property. “Our fall color is
spectacular, and you wouldn’t believe the number of people who visit from near and far simply to experience the fall foliage.”
A large, covered “outdoor classroom” located near the entrance to the bridge is utilized as a waiting area, as only 10 people per span are permitted to cross at one time. This gathering space is also used for activities such as birdwatching, outdoor yoga classes, and educational programs. Other features of the Hidden Lake Gardens include a conservatory, bonsai tree collection, 12 miles of hiking trails, a visitor center with a library, an auditorium, a meeting area, and a gift shop.
The entrance to the canopy walk is about a half mile from the visitors center parking lot and one-third of a mile from the trailhead parking lot. Paths that lead to the canopy walk are a combination of paved, gravel, and wood-chipped surfaces. Access is free with admission to Hidden Lake Gardens from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays, from April to October, and, weather-permitting, from November to March (excluding five major holidays).
Big Water Tales
The Au Sable River’s charms caught the imagination of writer Thomas Buhr and now influence his collection of northern Michigan-themed books
By Tracy Donohue
love of the Au Sable River inspired him to launch the Au Sable Big Water Preservation Association. Above: Buhr’s “ The Big Water” features an historical account of the Au Sable River region.
journey, he also became sober and survived Stage 4 cancer.
Some 20 years ago, Buhr moved to northern Michigan and settled east of Grayling near Mio, in Luzerne. The unincorporated community is located within the Huron National Forest. A tributary of the picturesque, 138-mile-long Au Sable River flows through it.
Writer, conservationist, and fishing enthusiast
Thomas Buhr lived the first 14 years of his life in Ann Arbor before moving with his family to Florida, where his father retired in the early 1970s.
“I spent the first part of my life as a Midwesterner, then came of age during the end days of Old Florida in Boca Raton — a place no one had heard of at the time. I became interested in conservation after
watching development steal away this magical land that we can’t get back,” he says.
Buhr earned degrees in history and communication from the University of Miami and the University of Central Florida before returning to his home state later in life to attend the University of Michigan, where he obtained a Ph.D. in communication. “By the time I defended my dissertation at age 44, I had soured on academia and fallen in love with fishing and conservation,” he admits. Along the
The Au Sable quickly caught the imagination of angler and conservationist Buhr, who feels a deep affection for the river. It’s recognized as a fly-fishing paradise that’s home to one of the country’s finest trout fisheries, as well as a bounty of steelhead, salmon, and other fish.
“There’s a whole 'nother world under there. With fishing, you never know what you’re going to catch, and you don’t know what you’ve got until you see it. It’s like a gift,” he says, then adds, “Although these
days, I don’t keep fish. I prefer to be nicer and just take (pictures) of them using an underwater camera.
“The water and land near water is sacred ground. I often go to the river early, with my chair and book. I walk around. I listen to the gurgling of the water over the rocks. It’s a world in which I feel I belong, and I understand. The Au Sable River is my favorite place in Michigan.”
In 2007, Buhr publicly acknowledged his love for the river by founding the Au Sable Big Water Preservation Association. Over the years, he’s also been involved in several other conservation organizations, and has received multiple awards and accolades for his environmental and conservation efforts.
Buhr says he’s been able to cultivate his passions over three decades through freelance writing for magazines such as Field & Stream , Florida Game & Fish, Michigan Out of Doors, Midwest Fly Fishing, and The Riverwatch, where he also served as editor.
By 2013, Buhr turned his attention toward authoring books. However, it wasn’t until the COVID-19 pandemic that the snowbird who split his time between Florida and Michigan moved north and was able to give his full attention to writing books focused on northern Michigan and his beloved Au Sable River.
Since last year, he’s released two books through Mission Point Press in Traverse City. The first book, “The Outgoing: A Spinnerfall Thriller,” is part of a planned four-book mystery series. The first installment is centered in Michigan’s north woods, along the Au Sable River. Earlier this year, Buhr’s second book, “The Big Water: A History of Michigan’s Lower Au Sable River,” was released. This book offers a comprehensive historical account of the region and covers everything from the First People of North America to European explorers, American settlers, and captains of industry, up to present-day happenings.
“People came here to trap, hunt, fish, lumber, canoe, and, as of late, to conserve,” he explains. “I included information and interviews from people who
BOOKMARK!
Thomas Buhr thomasabuhr.com
lived the history over the past 70 to 80 years because I want the next generation to have an up-to-date starting place.”
The author is currently working on several new book projects involving conservation and history. “It’s important to understand historical context and what different events meant. We have a tendency to repeat mistakes, but hopefully we can move toward a future where we can live in harmony with wild places.”
In addition to writing and fishing, Buhr spends time biking, reading, exercising, traveling, and visiting family in Ann Arbor.
“I love this state. In my youth, I thought I was a Floridian — the whole ‘sand in my shoes’ mentality. But the
“It’s a world in which I feel I belong, and I understand. The Au Sable River is my favorite place in Michigan,” says author Thomas Buhr, shown here wading through its refreshing waters.
wildness of northern Michigan is me: Jack pines along the Au Sable River; the beauty and mystery that’s here; the way the seasons flow. There’s a sense of peace that’s lacking elsewhere. Nature has an order and rhythm here that you can’t find anywhere else.”
While Buhr says he still enjoys Ann Arbor and the beauty of the Irish Hills, northern Michigan holds a special place for him.
“Keep going north in Michigan and you’ll fall in love. The U.P. is a country unto itself. It’s incredibly beautiful and, if we’re smart, we’ll keep it that way. You can still experience wild America, even for a while.”
TEN TO TRY
From islands to boat rides, these 10 northwest Michigan (and beyond) spots are fun to explore
1
Boat the Bay: Friendly boat owner and captain Chris Chamberlain and his crew are happy to tell passengers all about beautiful Little Traverse Bay as Chamberlain steers the Little Traverse Bay Ferry Co.’s Harbor Princess to and from Petoskey, Bay Harbor, or Harbor Springs. Or try the relaxing and highly recommended 90-minute sunset cruise that leaves Petoskey’s Bayfront Park dock around 7:30 p.m., depending on the season. History-themed cruises and yoga outings also are available. littletraversebayferry.org
2 Hidden Island: The 2,683-acre Fisherman’s Island State Park, located south of downtown Charlevoix’s bustle, offers a delightful getaway to enjoy sunsets and stone hunting, hike its rolling dunes and cedar bogs, or wade out to the island. Visitors will discover 6 miles of Lake Michigan beach, 80 rustic campsites (16 along the waterfront), and great opportunities to find Petoskey and Charlevoix stones. michigan.gov/fishermansisland
3 Boyne Update: The Donald Ross Memorial Course at Boyne Highlands in Harbor Springs rates among the top courses in Michigan. It features 18 holes that have been recreated from the famous architect’s legendary courses around the U.S. Part of Boyne Golf’s Magnificent Ten courses, the Memorial has been undergoing a multiyear renovation. Four more of the course’s updated holes (2, 13, 15, and 16) are now open for play. boynegolf.com
4
Birder’s Paradise: Seney National Wildlife Refuge, with a total of 95,238 acres, consists of several noncontiguous sections in the Upper Peninsula that serve as breeding grounds for loons, trumpeter swans, Canada geese, bald eagles, osprey, and other wildlife, while providing pools, marshes, and habitats for migrating birds. The 25,150-acre Seney Wilderness Area, near Germfask, features the 7-mile Marshland Wildlife Drive and 8.5-mile Fishing Loop car routes, plus worthwhile biking and hiking trails. fws.gov/refuge/seney
5 Hey, Buckaroos!: The family-owned Ranch Rudolph, southeast of Traverse City, offers guests a chance to enjoy a few traditions of the Great American West. The 195-acre ranch is nestled along the Boardman River in the Pere Marquette State Forest. The biggest draw is the horses, and one- or two-hour trail rides through scenic wooded areas. Other offerings include special horse programs and camps, hay and sleigh rides, camping, and accommodations. ranchrudolf.com
6
Lighthouse Loop: With 45 of the most historic lighthouses in the country, the Upper Peninsula provides great opportunities for exploring these legends of the Great Lakes. The Upper Peninsula Travel and Recreation Association has developed an amazing five-day trip planner with lighthouse visits from Mackinaw City to Copper Harbor, including several bonus lighthouse stops along the way. uptravel.com/blog/
7
Outdoor Museum: Fayette Historic State Park, on the shores of Big Bay de Noc in Garden, invites visitors to explore the preserved 150-year-old weathered town site, framed by 90-foot limestone cliffs and the Lake Michigan coastline. Self-guided tours take sightseers through more than 20 historically preserved buildings and the grounds of this former industrial community, where charcoal pig iron was manufactured between 1867 and 1891. Once home to 500 residents, it became a ghost town in 1891. visitescanaba.com
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Rare Find: Founded in 1902, the internationally recognized A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum at Michigan Technological University showcases the largest public exhibit of minerals in the Great Lakes region, with more than 4,000 specimens from around the world on display. It maintains what’s regarded as the world’s best collection of Michigan minerals. The museum is built on top of a onetime native copper mine (circa 1864) that was rediscovered during the current building’s construction in 2011. museum.mtu.edu/museum
9 U.P. Adventure Tour: The Iron Ore Heritage Trail, covering more than 47 miles, runs through notable Upper Peninsula mining towns from Republic to Marquette, and along Lake Superior to Harvey. The diverse terrain and trail surfaces for bikers/hikers, historical markers and places to visit, and memorable scenery make for an outstanding journey. Take a side loop through the Northern Michigan University campus and Lakeshore Boulevard to Presque Isle Park for more big-lake views. travelmarquette.com
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Cheers!: Catch a Lake Michigan sunset on the Charlevoix pier (enhanced by the South Pier Light Station) and then cap off the magical twilight hour from a bar seat or the outdoor elevated deck at the quaint Vue Wine Bar on Bridge Street. Try a charcuterie board or sip world-class wines while gazing out toward the waterfront. Many of the seats feature views of the iconic Pine River Channel drawbridge; watch the bridge raise as boats cruise to and from Lake Michigan or Lake Charlevoix. vuecharlevoix.com
Visitors to the captivating and sometimes haunting Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum complex in Paradise, located at the northern tip of Lake Superior’s Whitefish Bay, might run into Bruce Lynn, a history bu from Sault Ste. Marie. He’s celebrating his 11th year as the Upper Peninsula museum’s executive director.
Lynn grew up around Columbus, Ohio, and became fascinated by all things Great Lakes shipping during trips to his family’s cottage near Whitefish Point.
The a able leader has a long history with the Paradise museum, first working there as an intern after earning history and criminal justice degrees from OSU in 1996, and then returning to work full time in 1998
Maritime History
The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum team keeps guests entertained with nautical insights and information about its latest underwater discoveries
By Mark Spezia
after earning a master’s degree in historic preservation from Eastern Michigan University. He left the museum to spend about 10 years as the Mackinac State Historic Parks’ group travel coordinator, and then worked for two years as assistant curator of programs at the Sloan Museum in Flint.
Lynn rejoined the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum in 2011 as operations manager before taking on his current role in 2013.
“In the last few years the sta is the best we’ve had,” he says. “We’re fortunate to attract this talent, because we’re not near any big population areas.”
Lynn says the team is energetic about answering hundreds of visitors’ questions every day. That’s one of the many reasons he loves sharing their creativity at the various Great Lakes Shipwreck Historical So-
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Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum shipwreckmuseum.com
ciety’s entities, including the restored 1899 U.S. Weather Bureau Building in Sault Ste. Marie’s Soo Locks Park, which houses its headquarters and features an exhibit and museum store.
From the first of May through the end of October, the Whitefish Point grounds bustle with activity as thousands annually take in the museum’s exhibits and vast collection of artifacts — including the S.S. Edmund Fitzgerald’s bell — as well as eye-opening underwater films of shipwreck discoveries.
Beyond the museum, guests make their way through a lightkeeper’s quarters, surfboat house, and Coast Guard motor lifeboat house with a video theater.
While all of this is happening on land, the society’s 47-foot underwater research vessel, R.V. David Boyd, and its crew are usually out scanning the bottom of the Great Lakes (up to 1,400 feet deep) with advanced marine sonic technology in search of shipwrecks.
Lynn attributes the museum’s success to team members like Sarah Jacques, the museum store’s manager. “She does an incredible job of working with vendors and selecting items that reflect our exhibits. After last year’s delivery of a 1940s-era, 36-foot, 18,000-pound USCG motor lifeboat, which was being restored at Mertaugh Boat Works in Hessel, Sarah found sources to create artwork, clothing, and other souvenirs specific to the boat,” Lynn explains.
Meanwhile, graphic designer Chris Winters and Lynn co-authored a comprehensive book, “The Legend Lives On: S.S. Edmund Fitzgerald,” about the 1975 sinking of the 729-foot freighter. The book includes more than 300 photographs from the society’s collection, including those from its three underwater expeditions to the shipwreck.
Corey Adkins, who won multiple Michigan Emmy awards during his 23 years at
WWTV/WWUP in Traverse City, is in his fourth year as content and communications coordinator, and continues to earn awards.
Adkins, a GLSHS board member for the past 16 years, produced “The Great Storm of 1872,” which won Best Documentary Short at the 2023 Great Lakes International Film Festival. The film chronicles the fate of schooner-barges Jupiter and Saturn, both of which sank during a violent Lake Superior storm on Nov. 27, 1872.
Darryl Ertel Jr., the director of marine operations and the David Boyd’s captain, and his wife, Sarah Wilde, who serves as the society’s operations manager, have been with the organization for a total of more than 25 years. Wilde is also a David Boyd crew member.
At times, Lynn accompanies the society’s research vessel’s crew, whose efforts have been especially fruitful of late, discovering a dozen shipwrecks since the spring of 2021.
The latest was located in 2023 when
Negaunee resident Dan Fountain found a deep anomaly north of Copper Harbor. He reached out to GLSHS for help in investigating the find. The investigation led to the discovery of the wreckage of the S.S. Arlington, a 244-foot bulk carrier that sank in 1940 roughly 35 miles north of the Keweenaw Peninsula.
“Suddenly, a forgotten chapter in maritime history is new again. One of the descendants of the Arlington crew even emailed to thank us.”
A Remembrance: Relatives of the 29 men who perished in 1975 when the Edmund Fitzgerald went down before it could reach the relative safety of Whitefish Bay annually gather at the museum for a ceremony on Nov. 10, the anniversary of the sinking.
What’s New: The U.S. Navy radio building is dedicated to the A.A. Parker, a wooden steamship that went down near Grand Marais in 1903. The exhibit tells the amazing story of how the crew was rescued. Another new item is the aforementioned restored motor lifeboat.
DESIGN CURRENTS
40 Designers’ Notebook
Handcrafted pottery, book a room in a restored manor, and a new Tunnel of Trees boutique hotel opens.
40 Studio Visit Meet artist Joanna Frye, who teaches gel-plate printing and block-printing in her new East Tawas studio/gallery.
44 Design Star Vanessa ChaverriGratz shares insider tips on how she outfitted her cozy, plant-filled sunroom.
46 The Elements
Update your great room with a mixand-match selection of coffee tables, ottomans, and trays.
DESIGNERS’ NOTEBOOK
Tips, trends, and tidbits
Fired Up!: Need some new headturning pieces for your cottage? Check out the handcrafted pottery that’s as delightful to look at as it is to use at The Henry Ford. The Ford potters focus on form and function, and they’re always up to something new — like a stoneware birdhouse, to add a bit of beauty to your everyday. Shop the stores at Greenfield Village and The Henry Ford, or check out the latest merchandise online at thehenryford.org
Mind Your Manor(s): When Julie and Dave Sprenger acquired the Laurium Manor Inn in the Keweenaw Peninsula in 1989, the building, once a local copper baron’s dream home, was a shadow of its former self. The once-majestic halls had been stripped bare, and the mansion was uninhabitable. Fast-forward 35 years, and the couple is celebrating three and a half decades of the Laurium Manor Inn’s stunning restoration. Book your stay at laurium.info.
Inn-side the Tunnel: A new boutique hotel has opened at the southern end of Michigan’s famous Tunnel of Trees. The former Birchwood Inn is now the 31-room Otis Harbor Springs; the Otis name is a nod to the Chicago bankingturned-farming family who used to work the land where the hotel now stands. Holding true to its Mid-century Modern design, the interior renovations were overseen by Daniel Caudill, a former creative director at Shinola. Inspiration also came from interior designer Ken Blasingame: Think velvet sofas that you can sink into. Book a getaway at otisharborsprings.com.
— Compiled by Megan Swoyer
Have news about design and waterfront living? Email MSwoyer@Hour-Media.com.
Pressing Matters
An artist puts her print on northeast Michigan’s art scene
By Megan Swoyer | Photography by Reagan Carney
It’s been a year since artist Joanna Frye, her husband, Fred, and their three daughters — a 14-year-old and 10-yearold twins — moved from Ann Arbor to Tawas City. When the family first arrived, they lived along Lake Huron at Bayview Resort, a collection of several cabins and a main structure that had been turned into a single-family home. In mid-summer, they sold the resort and moved to a three-bedroom, single-family home that’s also on the shores of Lake Huron, in Tawas City. “It’s been used as a seasonal cottage, but we’re fixing it up as a year-round family home,” Frye says. Besides finding a place to live, the couple also discovered a great space in downtown East Tawas where Joanna can create art and
teach. The busy mom and full-time artist opened Sunrise Studio & Art Supply in downtown East Tawas this past spring.
At first, Frye rented just the second-floor area of the building. There, she had space to create art and provide classes. She and Fred turned what had been an accounting office with blue carpeting and dull walls into a bright, pretty spot. “We lifted the carpet and found wood floors. We sanded, sealed, and painted,” she says. A large window provides plenty of natural light.
Frye has since expanded downstairs, where she now has room to host larger workshops. She also added gallery space and displays a small selection of art supplies and kits that she sells to students and other customers. “Students and visitors can buy good-quality supplies — not super high-end, but quality, so they’re not frustrated using cheap supplies.”
Frye received an undergraduate degree in fine arts from Michigan State University; graphic design and printmaking were her areas of concentration. She eventually attended graduate school at MSU and focused on student affairs. “My first job was working at the University of Michigan in its arts engagement program,” she shares. Geared toward freshme, the program encouraged students to get involved in the arts and culture available on campus and in the area.
A few years later, she embarked on a Ph.D. program in higher education at U-M. “It was a hard pivot away from art,” she recalls, “but it was important to me. I was the first in my family to attend college, and I was interested in how public universities are run and funded.” She then worked in the government affairs office at MSU, followed by a stint in the administrative offices at U-M. (If you’re wondering which team she roots for, it’s the Spartans!) Five years later, the COVID-19 pandemic hit. “My kids went remote for school for 18 months and our lives were crazy. Fred and I had to decide who was going to step back. I was the one, because I knew I could easily jump back in later.” Eventually, that step back led the Fryes to the cabins at Bay-
view. The couple had visited Cedar Lake in Greenbush, just north of East Tawas, for years, because Fred’s family had a place on the lake. “We’d stay in Tawas, and that’s how we discovered Bayview,” Frye says. “We fell in love with the community and the beauty of the area.”
As they settled into their new town in northeast Michigan, Frye found that time away from work had inspired her to think about her true passion: art. It wasn’t long before her (color) wheels started turning, and her business was born.
“Printmaking and block-printing, in particular, dovetail so nicely with graphic design,” she says, “and I love it all.” The artist uses a mini-press for block-printing and making greeting cards, and uses a gel-plate printing technique (monoprinting) to create other works of art.
Frye teaches both gel-plate printing and block-printing, and she says both techniques are beginner-friendly. Those who want to carve their own image or pattern for pressing are welcome to give it a try, or students can simply apply paint to the plates Frye already has, add handmade masks (shapes like leaves or fish) or stencils, and press their paper onto the plate.
The artist explains that “printmaking” is an umbrella term that includes all kinds of
printing; block-printing and gel-plate printing are two different types. In block-printing, you carve a design into the surface of a rubber or linoleum block. For those classes, Frye provides templates for carving and helps guide students who want to draw their own design. “Whatever you cut away is the white space,” she says. “Everything is in reverse when block-printing.”
In gel-plate printing, prints are made by applying paint to the gel plate, then creating textures and layers with found objects, stencils, and masks. The final product is a single print (a monotype). “This differs from block-printing, in which the carved block can be inked and printed again and again,” the artist says.
Frye, whose mother was a self-taught artist who was entranced by folk art and decorative arts, creates mostly nature-inspired works including plants, waves, water, and landscape motifs. “I love nature and that stems from growing up in Michigan, with the natural beauty around us. If I could pick any place to be, it would be outside in the woods or on the water.”
The artist can accommodate up to around 20 students per class and currently offers about two classes per week at the studio, which is located inside the Newman Street Marketplace. “I also teach private group classes, which are perfect for girls’ weekends and families,” she
says. She also welcomes guest artists, who teach classes in a variety of mediums, to her studio. Her goal is to spread the joy of art in the region, whether students are local residents or visitors.
Frye’s studio is located just down the street from welcoming shops that range from chocolatiers to old-school grocery markets and a vintage five-and-dime store. The Lake Huron shoreline is just a quick walk from the shop, so students often make a whole day out of their art adventure. “We’re a place that’s hidden out of the way, where you can do something that you wouldn’t normally get a chance to do,” Frye says. “It’s not often you get an opportunity to take a block-printing class.” Most of her students want to improve each time, and she notes that people need creative opportunities. During a recent visit, Frye was sharing gel-plate printing tips with attentive students. “Squirt the paint on your plate,” she told them, “and then layer some shapes over that and put paper over the top. Now, peel it off.” She helps students learn how to build up a background, adding more detail each time. “It’s a process-based art form; you never know what you’re going to get, and you discover as you go. That’s the cool thing about printmaking.”
MORE INFORMATION:
Sunrise Studio & Art Supply is at 211 Newman St., East Tawas. It’s open Thursday-Sunday. To find out about classes, visit sunriseartsupply.com.
Timeless Style
Grosse Ile-based online interior design consultant
Vanessa Chaverri-Gratz shares tips on putting together one of her favorite rooms
By Megan Swoyer
Photography by Joe Tiano
Enjoying a glass of wine together in their Plano, Texas, home, Vanessa Chaverri-Gratz and her husband, Josh Gratz, were scrolling through real estate listings when they stumbled upon a historic Tudor-style home in Grosse Ile. Shortly afterward, they were in Michigan for a wedding and, on a whim, they decided to go look at the nearly 100-year-old home. “We fell in love with it and put an offer in the next day,” Chaverri-Gratz says.
and feels rural. “People here are neighborly and they look out for each other.”
One of the selling points of the circa-1926 home was a gorgeous sunroom that had been added in the 1940s. It’s a temperature-controlled space and has inground flower beds. “We uprooted a good number of plants and did some replanting,” Chaverri-Gratz says. The couple and their 13-year-old Shiba Inu, Kona, enjoy the light-filled space immensely. “We use it as a TV room and breakfast spot. When friends come over, this is the space for watching sports or playing games.”
Vanessa Chaverri-Gratz’s sunroom was added to her circa-1926 home in the 1940s. She and her husband, Josh Gratz, use it for entertaining, growing plants, watching television, and enjoying weekend breakfasts. Their well-designed home is on a 10-mile-long island in the Detroit River.
The two had lived all over the United States for their jobs, but recently found themselves in remote-work positions. “We could live anywhere, and Josh is from Michigan’s downriver area, so we thought why not? We couldn’t believe the price point and how immaculately cared for the home was,” explains Chaverri-Gratz, who was pining to live in a four-season state. Now that she’s here, she finds Grosse Ile — an island in the Detroit River that’s about 10 miles long and one mile wide — to be a friendly community that’s quiet
Chaverri-Gratz is a recruiter by day for Warby Parker; at night and on weekends, she works with clients online to help them decorate their homes. She also creates design-themed content for her social media avenues, and works in collaboration with several home décor companies whose products she features on her Instagram stream (join her 140,000 followers at thegratzlife). “Our home, which is timeless and vintage, is my canvas for my decorating skills. It’s a passion and a fun outlet,” she says.
Here, we get a glimpse of the homeowner’s favorite elements in her sunroom — a great spot anytime of the year!
If walls could talk: One of the walls was “creamy-vanilla yellow and we wanted to pack a punch,” ChaverriGratz says. Her husband had the idea of a greenspace mural, and they decided on a landscape from Belarte Studio. “It’s put up in strips, like wallpaper.”
Sofa, so good:
The couple’s sofa was custom-created by Interior Define. “You choose the fabric, depth, fill, height, arm style, and more,” Chaverri-Gratz says. They went with a vintage velvet in Ivy and chose Old English-style arms; in her mind, green is a neutral. “The sofa style feels vintage.”
What lies beneath:
A Loloi rug (a collaboration with Chris Loves Julia, chrislovesjulia.com) feels “modern,” Chaverri-Gratz says.
Lighten up:
Chaverri-Gratz doesn’t mind blending new and old, and designer and affordable. The floor lamp, for example, is from Target. “I’m a big fan of mixing,” she says. A Tiffany-style lamp over the game table was discovered on Facebook Marketplace.
Thrilled with throws:
“I buy a new throw every year — that’s how much I love them,” Chaverri-Gratz says. The current one is by Minky Couture and is the “crème de la crème of throws.”
She says Kona (their dog) is obsessed with it. “Each blanket is created using high-quality sewing machines, quilting clips, and notions,” she adds.
Tray bien:
Looking up:
“The ceiling beadboard was here when we bought it, and it was raw,” the designer says. “You could see the stains from the sap.” Chaverri-Gratz wanted more green in the space, so she had it painted in Daily Greens (by Clare, a paint company). The rustic beams were left as is, to echo the wood window casements.
Game for games:
A sturdy wood game table, from Poly & Bark, is perfect for playing cards or chess. “I’m slowly but surely learning how to play chess and euchre,” Chaverri-Gratz says. The chairs are from the Detroit Club via a Facebook Marketplace find.
Drink up:
Dig this:
The L-shaped, 21-footlong indoor gardening area brims with monstera, corn plants, ferns, a small lemon tree, and a fig tree. The couple uses a dripline to water it. “I think the bottom is concrete and it’s layered with rocks,” Chaverri-Gratz explains.
Benched:
A West Elm mango bench, placed behind the sofa, is a good spot for putting on or taking off shoes, and for holding books and special mementos, like a vintage eagle sculpture that once belonged to Josh’s grandfather.
Left: Wood furnishings and a cozy sectional complement a wallpaper mural from Belarte Studio. “It’s put up in strips, like wallpaper,” homeowner Vanessa ChaverriGratz says. Below: The temperature-controlled sunroom has in-ground plant beds.
Favorite homedesign collaborators: West Elm, Voluspa Candles, Interior Define, and Yardbird Outdoor Furniture.
A handy tray from West Elm is typically on the ottoman — a perfect caddy for drinks and candles.
An old chest that was the previous homeowners’ television cabinet is now home to bourbons, whiskeys, and tequilas.
“I like having kind of a modern piece among the vintage.” MORE INFORMATION: Follow Chaverri-Gratz on Instagram — @thegratzlife
An Easy Update
Does your great room need a simple makeover? Mix and match these tables, trays, and ottomans.
Styled by Jamie Fabbri
1. The Nadette Coffee Table by UTTERMOST is modern and sophisticated. Price upon request, Lighting Resource Studio, Michigan Design Center, Troy, michigandesign.com, uttermost.com
2. SERENA & LILY ’s Scallop Rattan Tray is an award-winner for all your serving needs. $168, Serena & Lily, Birmingham, serenaandlily.com
3. The Palmer Upholstered Round Nesting Ottoman by ARHAUS makes entertaining or relaxing with family a breeze. $1,999, Arhaus, Ann Arbor and Troy, arhaus.com
4. Keep your snacks within reach on the Havi Tray by ARHAUS, which features a geometric design and combines style and function. $129, Arhaus, Ann Arbor and Troy, arhaus.com
5. A Tray Coffee Table by HAY is sure to be the star of the show in any home. $345, Design Within Reach, Grand Rapids, dwr.com
6. These speckled trays from COTTAGE WORKS make a perfect gift — or get one as an accent piece for your own home. $45$60, Cottage Works, Ludington, yourcottage works.com
7. Kyoto Coffee Tables by GIANFRANCO FRATTINI for POLTRONA FRAU blend design vision and master craftsmanship. $11,120, Design Within Reach, Grand Rapids, dwr.com
8. POTTERY BARN ’s Antiqued Metal Decorative Trays offer endless styling options. $99-$149, Pottery Barn, multiple locations, potterybarn.com
9. Give a round of applause for the Balboa Rattan Coffee Table by SERENA & LILY $1,998, Serena & Lily, Birmingham, serenaandlily.com
10. Bronze strap details give a modern edge to the Strap Ottoman by THOMAS PHEASANT for BAKER . Price upon request, Baker | McGuire, Michigan Design Center, Troy, bakerfurniture.com, michigandesign.com
11. BLUDOT ’s Medium Marble Trays come in statement-making fi nishes including Green Marble, shown here. $85, bludot.com
12. Get cozy with SERENA & LILY ’s Bridgeway Ottoman, shown in Artichoke Vintage Indigo. $3,998, Serena & Lily, Birmingham, serenaandlily.com
13. This Burlwood Tray by POTTERY BARN , a perfect spot for a bowl of popcorn, features a bright and natural pattern. $129, Pottery Barn, multiple locations, potterybarn.com
14. Kick your feet up and rest them on the Pastille Ottoman by HLYNUR ATLASON for DESIGN WITHIN REACH . $1,595, Design Within Reach, Grand Rapids, dwr.com
Where Form Meets Function
Located on the shores of Spring Lake, this contemporary home makes a striking statement from all angles
BY ANNA BJORLIN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY COREY GAFFER PHOTOGRAPHY
When the lots on both sides of their house on west Michigan’s Spring Lake, near Grand Haven, went up for sale, a couple who had originally been planning to build a new home on the same site as their current residence decided to pivot and take advantage of the opportunity to expand on their vision and increase the footprint of their future abode. The couple, west Michigan natives with two young children and a shared love of sailing, ended up contacting Minnesota-based Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design. They quickly set up a meeting with Charles Stinson and hit it off right away. “The first time he came out to the site, he had three pencil sketches and basically nailed it,” the owner says. “He modified the design a bit after seeing the site from the water, but essentially the initial layout he came up with, without even having been there, was what we moved forward with.”
One of the challenges the design team needed to consider was how to situate the house on the long, combined lot and diagonal coastline so it would be oriented toward the water while preserving the functionality of the garage on the other side. “It was
a real puzzle to organize the geometry of the house on a very irregularly shaped property,” says Stinson, who led the architectural process with designer Benjamin Bower. He adds: “The challenge is what made it unique; you couldn’t build this house on just any site. You had to really embrace it.”
The stairstep style of the three-level house was designed to take full advantage of the sweeping views, Stinson explains, so each room would have two views of the water: one directly in front and one off to the side. “As you walk through the house from one end to the other, you see water the entire way, even though you’re going around angles and corners,” he says. “From inside, your eye doesn’t see the ground — you see the lake, the sky, and the horizon. The first level is actually 15 feet above basement-grade, so you really feel like you’re on a boat, peering out over the water.”
The exterior is characterized by horizontal floating planes that make up the roof and floor levels, intersected with vertical forms of custom Valders limestone. A drive-under canopy helps define the main entrance, while live green roofs add
“WE HAD OUR EYE ON THIS PAINTING FOR YEARS AND FINALLY BOUGHT IT BEFORE WE BROKE GROUND ON THE HOUSE, KNOWING THE WALL ABOVE THE FIREPLACE WOULD BE ITS EVENTUAL HOME.”
— THE HOMEOWNERS
an organic touch and help soften the sharp lines of the rectilinear architecture.
The interior, designed by the owners themselves and inspired, in part, by their time spent living in Tokyo, is clean, minimalist, and modern, exhibiting timeless colors and a commitment to intentionally designed spaces with plenty of places to hide clutter.
“We really fell in love with the concepts of the Japanese architecture style — how it’s simple and elegant, yet practical with no wasted space. That impacted a lot of our thinking for the interior design of this house,” the owner says. “We wanted it to look cool, of course, but we also needed to live in it, so it was about finding that balance between form and function. But if we had to pick between the two, functionality would always win the day.”
The focus on functionality is perhaps best exemplified in the main kitchen area, where the family spends the majority of their time together cooking, eating, and watching TV. Dual waterfall islands and a roomy pantry provide plenty of space to cook and prep food, while a corner breakfast nook with custom banquette seating offers some of the best lake views in the house. Nearby, a gray sectional and a pair of swiveling blue armchairs are arranged in front of a fireplace wall, creating a cozy seating area ideal for lazy afternoons.
Meanwhile, the adjoining living room was designed for more formal entertaining, featuring a bar and larger dining and seating areas. An enormous fireplace takes center stage, providing a subtle backdrop for a serene painting of Buddhist monks by Vietnamese artist Nguyen Minh Phuoc. “We had our eye on this painting for years and finally bought it before we broke ground on the house, knowing the wall above the fireplace would be its eventual home,” the owner shares.
High ceilings, expansive Loewen windows, wide overhangs, and a series of walkout decks and verandas were designed to open up the house, flood the interiors with natural light, and create an outward flow to engage with the water. “The main spaces all face an outdoor deck,” Stinson says. “In fact, the entire house opens up like arms to embrace the lake views.” Located off the living room and accessible through a pair of large sliding glass doors, the main porch is outfitted with fans, heaters, a skylight, and drop-down screens that make it perfect for use during buggy summer evenings or on cooler autumn days.
“AS YOU WALK THROUGH THE HOUSE FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER, YOU SEE WATER THE ENTIRE WAY, EVEN THOUGH YOU’RE GOING AROUND ANGLES AND CORNERS.”
— CHARLES R. STINSON
The owners’ suite and offices are located on the main level, as well — a purposeful choice to allow for future aging-in-place accessibility — while the children’s bedrooms are located on the upper level, along with separate bathrooms, a shared deck, and their own laundry space. “We wanted to create their own little zone for them to do their thing, and we taught them early on how to do their own laundry. So, their laundry never comes downstairs!” the owner says, chuckling.
The lower level is a prime spot for casual entertaining, with a bar, couch and TV area, an exercise room, and an indoor pool and hot tub — a fun challenge for Stinson and his team, as it was one of the first indoor pools they designed, and the only one located beneath a main-level living area. “That actually required a lot of coordination because you have to create a different mechanical system and airlock with two sets of glass doors that (prevent) the air from the pool (from) getting in the rest of the house,” he explains. Another pair of glass doors opens out to the walkout patio and outdoor kitchen (complete with a bar, grilling station, and fireplace), and
RESOURCES
Opposite page:
leads down to the lake, where neighbors can stop by on their boats for a visit.
A two-bedroom guest house is the perfect addition when it comes to hosting extended family and friends. Since local building codes wouldn’t allow for a fully detached guest house, Stinson incorporated an attached version that would still give visitors their own personal experience, situating access points away from the main driveway and entrance and adding a private carport. “We wanted to be able to give guests privacy, tremendous views of the lake, and the ability to come and go without distractions,” he says.
The final result? A warm and welcoming modern home that will be enjoyed by family and friends alike for generations to come.
“Working with Charles was fantastic — he was very collaborative, and we had a great experience with him and his team from start to finish,” says the owner, adding, “We didn’t settle, that’s for sure!”
ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN
Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design, Wayzata, Minn., charlesrstinson.com
APPLIANCES
Bekins, Grand Rapids BUILDER
Bosgraaf Homes, Holland CABINETRY
IS-2 Interior Specialties, Holland GREEN ROOF LiveRoof, Nunica LANDSCAPING
Twin Lakes Nursery Inc., Grand Rapids MASONRY
Potts Masonry, Holland METALWORK
Buist Sheet Metal Co., Grand Rapids ROOFING
Arrow Roofing Services, Michigan STONE
Valders Stone & Marble, Wisconsin STUCCO
Tom Alderink Plastering, Twin Lake WINDOWS
Loewen Windows and Doors
Tunnels of Trees
Follow Michigan’s evolving fall palette on these 10 scenic drives
BY BILL SEMION
M-26/U.S. 41
HOUGHTON TO COPPER HARBOR
all’s bloom starts with a touch of color, and always in the Upper Peninsula. First frosts, cooler temperatures, and longer nights trigger the transformation. From the Keweenaw region east, then south across the upper and lower peninsulas, Michigan’s fall color show flows like paint splashed on a canvas, blending vibrant strokes of every shade into a brilliant spectacle unlike anywhere else.
With more than half of the state covered in forest, and with its complementary waterways, Michigan consistently ranks near the top when it comes to places in the country to experience the majesty of fall’s colors. One of the best ways to watch the show progress from north to south is by driving along the following marvelous scenic highways.
One of the state’s two “original” Tunnels of Trees, the Copper Country Trail National Byway is a favorite drive. It captures the beauty of Michigan in fall, from leaves to lakes, and offers a look at the state’s history; the copper mining industry here is credited with producing the wire that electrified America and helped win two world wars.
Easy side trips include following the road up Brockway Mountain Drive to Copper Harbor, where you can stop for lunch at a local favorite such as The Mariner North or the Harbor Haus, and cruising along the spectacular Lake Superior waterfront on M-26 between Copper Harbor and Eagle River. Then, enjoy a beverage at Houghton’s Keweenaw Brewing Co.
Other stops might include savoring the treats made by monks at The Jampot bakery, near Jacob’s Falls; looking for beach agates; waterfall-viewing; and, in mid- to late October, booking a charter to catch some Lake Superior splake, a hybrid trout.
When it comes to lodging, you can stay at The Sunset House, near Eagle River, which is available through rentmichigancabins.com. Other options include booking a cabin at the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge or a lakeside room at Fitzgerald’s Hotel & Restaurant in Eagle River. Farther south, Baraga Lakeside Inn is a good choice. Combine your adventures with tours at Keweenaw National Historical Park, and don’t miss shopping at spots such as Houghton’s Keweenaw Gem & Gift for local greenstone and agate jewelry.
BLACK RIVER SCENIC BYWAY
At just 15 miles, this drive is short, but it’s worth the trip. Skirting the Black River from Bessemer in the western U.P., County Road 513 has been a National Forest
Left: For some 20 miles, the M-119 Tunnel of Trees drive near Harbor Springs offers amazing views. Below: For an added treat, venture beyond the Straits of Mackinac area and explore the scenery along M-123 leading to Tahquamenon Falls. Opposite page: Lake Michigan’s shoreline, the Cut River Bridge, and colorful trees lining U.S. 2 west of St. Ignace are a leafpeeper’s paradise.
at all the falls overlooks, then drive to the Lake Superior harbor and walk the suspension bridge. Stay in Bessemer or Ironwood and tour the Stormy Kromer factory, where you can buy a legendary woolen hat or two.
U.S. 2
ESCANABA TO ST. IGNACE
Follow the Lake Michigan shoreline and enjoy another spectacular water-and-color combo. Views of the lake emerge between towns like Rapid River and Manistique, and you’ll discover a number of places that offer their own reasons to linger — like a raft ride over the Kitch-iti-kipi spring. Other places worthy of making a stop are the Cut River Bridge; Gustafson’s in Brevort, for smoked whitefish; and Lehto’s, my favorite pasty shop, which is located along U.S. 2 west of the Mackinac Bridge or in St. Ignace.
Bike the Haywire Grade Trail. Camp at a lakefront site near Brevoort, or stay in Manistique at the Gray Wolf Lodge, with beach access, or at its lakefront city campground.
M-119
HARBOR SPRINGS TO CROSS VILLAGE
This is the other original Tunnel of Trees route. With glimpses of Lake Michigan and a slow speed limit, M-119 winds through a beautiful hardwood forest for about 20 miles. Most travelers start near Harbor Springs and go north. At the end, enjoy a lakeside lunch or dinner at Legs Inn (its 2024 season ends Oct. 20, and it’s closed on Tuesdays). Stay in Petoskey or Mackinaw City, or camp in spots such as Burt Lake State Park in Indian River.
M-65
STANDISH TO ROGERS CITY
This more than 100 mile route is less traveled and can be just as scenic in October as it is in mid- to late September. Turn north off U.S. 23 and, in a little while, you’re deep in the Huron-Manistee National Forest. Prepare for stunning views above the river at the Westgate Scenic
Outlook, then continue north through miles of hardwoods until you reach Lake Huron at U.S. 23. Find lodging in East Tawas, Mackinaw City, or Rogers City. Camp at state forest campgrounds or along Lake Huron at Rogers City’s P.H. Hoeft State Park.
I-75
HOUGHTON LAKE
TO MACKINAW CITY
This is one of my favorite drives. It begins where I-75 meets U.S.127 just south of Grayling, and enters forest lands broken only with potential stops for food and lodging at Roscommon, Grayling (canoe or kayak the Au Sable’s South Branch and main stream), and Gaylord (drive deep into the Pigeon River Country State Forest). In early October, the trip between Gaylord and Mackinaw is without-words-spectacular.
SOUTHWEST MICHIGAN
The warm Great Lakes help delay fall’s progression here, but mid- to late October is the prime time to enjoy a waterfront drive along what’s basically the same route, but it goes by different names in several locations. At South Haven, it’s North Shore Drive. South of Holland, it’s A-2/Blue
Star Memorial Highway. Near Holland, it’s Lakeshore Avenue. Above Muskegon, it’s North Scenic Drive. This is a beautiful route that also offers side trips closer to the water, and there are scores of places to dine and stay — including a winery or two.
M-25
Michigan’s Thumb is capped by M-25. Start by following M-29 from Lake St. Clair through Algonac along the St. Clair River, to Port Huron, then continue north. You’ll pass state parks and go through beach towns and farm communities like Port Austin, Caseville, and Sebewaing, plus historic Grindstone City and Huron City. Stay overnight and explore towns such as Port Austin, Caseville, or Bay City.
U.S. 12
Originally a stagecoach route, U.S. 12 starts in Detroit. West of Saline, huge trees mark the way through the Irish Hills, past antiques shops and parks. The nation’s second federal highway is also one of the state’s first designated Pure Michigan Byways. The fall colors are usually at their peak in late October. Continue on U.S. 12 through to Chicago, and you’ll eventually get to the Pacific Ocean. A fun place to
stay is the Clinton Inn, built in 1901, just east of the Irish Hills.
KENSINGTON METROPARK
This nearly 4,500-acre southeast Michigan park has everything. A bike trail rings the lake and connects to Island Lake State Recreation Area. A scenic roadway rings it, too. Walk its 12 miles of trails, or ride along 19 miles of marked accessible equestrian trails. Stop by the Farm Center, and take a ride on the lake in late October on the Island Queen (check schedule). Dine and stay in nearby Brighton. Regardless of which route you choose, slow down. Get out of your vehicle. Experience the smell and crunch of just-fallen leaves on damp ground. Feel that slight crispness in the wind on your cheek. See a waterfall. Watch migrating birds. Enjoy this special season.
PLAN IT!
Before you go, check out fall color updates, which are available through Pure Michigan, the state’s travel website. michigan.org/fallcolormap
COCKTAILS
BY PATTY LANOUE STEARNS
THE COTTAGE AT
Fast, fabulous, fun — and a symphony of sensory pleasures
Autumn on the water in Michigan is all about cozy: Crisp walks on wooded trails, quick dips in still-temperate lakes, sun-warmed towels to wrap around your shoulders, and, perhaps best of all, reveling in the toasty shades of russet, amber, crimson, and scarlet that fill the skies and the air with their own special sweetness.
After days like these, keep that fall feeling alive with a cocktail party at the cottage that’s quick, easy, and brimming with five-star autumn flavors. We’ve assembled some great recipes using mouthwatering artisanal products from Petoskey’s American Spoon, which have tantalized foodies for more than four decades.
Founded in 1982 in Petoskey by Justin Rashid and New York chef Larry Forgione, American Spoon has amassed many awards, including Rashid’s “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America” from the James Beard Foundation, and it’s received accolades from every culinary magazine since the company’s inception. American Spoon’s long list of epicurean delights range from granolas to gifts — all of which are meticulously hand-made and come from goods produced by Michigan’s finest small growers.
Today, American Spoon is owned by Rashid, his wife, Kate Marshall, and their son, Noah Marshall-Rashid, the company’s new-generation leader, who’s keeping the pure culinary ethos alive with exciting products such as a smallbatch mustard made with Michigan craft beer and a hand-picked wild blueberry conserve from Upper Peninsula berries.
“It’s a constant evolution,” MarshallRashid says, adding: “We put exceptional flavors first. (They’re) unlike anything you can find.” For example, when fresh New Haven peaches come in, he shuts down the entire canning line and his staffers “freshprocess” the peaches — 20 people sit down and start peeling (by hand) at once. “Nobody else is doing it like us,” he says.
Amen.
OK, so now it’s five o’clock somewhere. Cocktail time! Get ready for a taste thrill with American Spoon’s Bloody Mary Mix, flecked with dill and hand-grated horseradish, and a host of fine finger-foods to sate your senses.
BLOODY MARYS
Serves: 8
PREPARATION
For each drink, pour one ounce of vodka and three ounces of American Spoon Bloody Mary Mix over ice. Stir to combine. Garnish with fresh dill sprigs, lemon wedges, celery sticks, cornichons, crunchy dill spears, stuffed olives, and spicy pepperoncini.
THE DIVINE EDIBLES
To pair with the Marys, American Spoon culinary director Chris Dettmer offers some of his favorite recipes on the following pages. Let’s dig in!
CHEESE/CHARCUTERIE BOARD
Assemble your favorite cheeses (a sharp cheddar is good) and sausages on a wooden board, paired with American Spoon Whole Seed and Golden Ale mustards (made with Michigan sparkling wine and craft beer, respectively). Other treats that are divine with sharp cheeses: Bartlett Pear Preserves, with pears grown by Fredrickson Farms in Northport; Chili Jam’s chilis, which are grown at historic Coveyou Scenic Farm in Petoskey; and the balsamic-brown sugary Apple & Onion Jam, made with Michigan Ida Red apples.
SPICY PIMENTO CHEESE WITH CHILI JAM
Prep time: 5 minutes
Serves: 10-12
INGREDIENTS
1 cup cream cheese
1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/2 to 1 jar American Spoon Chili Jam 14 ounces extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated 3 tablespoons minced chives Salt and pepper to taste Fresh veggies or crostini
PREPARATION
Place the cream cheese in a medium bowl and stir until softened. Add the mayonnaise and half the jar of Chili Jam, and mix well. Add the grated cheddar cheese, chives, and salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning and stir in additional Chili Jam until desired heat level is achieved. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
CHILI JAM CHICKEN SKEWERS
Cook time: 10 minutes
Prep time: 30 minutes, plus refrigeration overnight
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds chicken breast
1 red onion, quartered
1 jar American Spoon Chili Jam
Kosher salt to taste
PREPARATION
Trim the chicken of any skin, bone, or sinew, and cut into bitesized pieces. Cut the onion into quarters. Thread the chicken pieces and onion petals onto skewers, alternating a few pieces of chicken, then a few onion petals. Place the prepared skewers in a deep casserole and sprinkle all over with salt. Using about two-thirds of the jar, rub the Chili Jam into the chicken. Reserve the remaining jam to serve at the table. Cover the marinated skewers and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. Remove the skewers from the refrigerator and roll them around in the marinade again. Prepare your grill; you’ll want a nice, hot fire. When the coals are ready, grill the skewers for about 8-10 minutes, turning once, until the chicken is cooked through and a little charred. Serve with the remaining Chili Jam.
SMOKED SALMON BAGEL WITH WHOLE SEED MUSTARD
Cook time: 5 minutes | Prep time: 10 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 bagel (plain, pumpernickel, or everything)
1 tablespoon cream cheese, softened
1-2 ounces smoked salmon
2 tablespoons American Spoon Whole Seed Mustard
Chopped fresh dill
Watercress
PREPARATION
Toast the bagel and spread with cream cheese. Break the salmon into small chunks and scatter over the cream cheese. Dollop a few spoonfuls of mustard on top, and garnish with dill and watercress.
MORE INFORMATION:
American Spoon’s original shop is at 411 E. Lake St., Petoskey. Other Michigan stores are in Harbor Springs, Charlevoix, Traverse City, and Saugatuck. Order online at spoon.com.
Modern-Day Makeover
A stunning transformation gives a dated vacation home in Bay Harbor a new identity
BY JEANINE MATLOW | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BETH SINGER
Some people can spot potential, even when it involves an outdated, Victorian-style cottage with ornate windows that block the highly sought-after views of Little Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. That was the case for a savvy couple with a passion for real estate and design who turned to Harbor Springs-based Cottage Company Interiors for a renovation to make their diamond-in-the-rough Bay Harbor retreat the ultimate summer destination.
Floral wallpaper and heavy draperies were among the “before” features that had to go in order for the couple to have their happily-ever-after home. The cottage’s Victorian style gave way to a fresh and sophisticated vibe that represents the current owners, who make their home on the East Coast but have childhood ties to northern Michigan. “No room was left untouched,” says Kelly Konoske, president of Cottage Company Interiors
(the design arm of Cottage Company). “(The home) had good structure and decent bones, and the clients could envision what it could be. We didn’t change much structurally or architecturally, and the location was a big selling point.”
With seven bedrooms, including a main floor master, five full baths, and two half-baths, there’s plenty of room for the family and their guests to spread out. The second floor has four bedrooms and a bunk room, while the lower-level walkout features a guest room, a kitchenette, and a game room. Color continuity connects the deluxe guest rooms to the bathrooms. “It’s a great opportunity to have one element that ties it all together, to make it feel like it flows,” Konoske explains.
Practicality was a priority that was met with performance fabrics and hardwood floors. Casual living areas with a purpose answered the homeowners’ request for no formal or wasted space. “The goal was to make the home accommodating and welcoming for friends and family, (and to ensure it’s) a place for entertaining and making memories,” says Konoske, who adds that she thoroughly enjoyed this project. “The (homeowners) were so fun to work with and so trusting of my ideas. We just gelled, and the process was seamless.”
Wanting to give the home a sense of place, Konoske took inspiration from the serene surroundings and brought in varying shades of blue, as well as patterns and textures that lend interest and keep the rooms cohesive. Low-profile furnishings expand the views, while distinct ceiling treatments — like the single beadboard in the great room — define each space.
Artwork plucked from the couple’s existing collection was refreshed with new frames, while an intriguing array of seating showcases pieces with ar-
chitectural details, like the stools in the great room. “There are so many places to seat people,” notes Konoske, who arranged the back porch by placing chaise lounges near the master bedroom, and dining and lounging options by the main rooms.
The master bedroom is a soothing respite for the homeowners, with shiplap walls and a wool carpet that provides comfort underfoot. Gray tones appear on the fabrics, including the subtle animal print worn by the couple’s Art Deco-style chairs. In the master bathroom, a soaking tub is a focal point in the calming space, and geometric tile floors add texture. His-and-hers vanities feature custom built-ins, while vertical shiplap gives the illusion of a taller ceiling. Contemporary fixtures deliver a modern twist to the classic cottage environment.
Lighting makes a statement in the dining room, where a modern chandelier hangs from the coffered ceiling, illuminating the teak table with its metal base and chairs upholstered in an abstract animal print. “I love contemporary lighting,” Konoske says. “That’s one area where you can push the boundaries.” An adjacent sitting area with swivel chairs is a cozy spot
for enjoying a cup of coffee or playing a card game.
An open layout that resulted from the renovation led to an airy white kitchen with stainless steel appliances, a handmade Chain Homme geometric tile backsplash, and quartz countertops. The window seat in the breakfast nook can easily accommodate company when the table is pushed beside it. “They like having a house that’s comfortable for 10, but intimate for two,” Konoske says.
The bunk room, with six beds, is a favorite with kids, while the couple loves the meditative quality of the lake and the back porch that enables them to eat outside whenever possible. Another big hit is the fire pit, where everyone gathers for laughter and s’mores.
With the couple’s childhood ties to northern Michigan, this reimagined cottage creates a home base with a special connection they can share with their three grown children and endless guests. The coveted location lets them spend time outside, with the added convenience of being able to walk to the beach or take a stroll down the street for dinner or drinks.
According to the couple, the home — thanks to its fabulous reinvention from dated to delightful — has already created priceless memories.
RESOURCES
DESIGN SAMPLER
STYLED BY JAMIE FABBRI
1. SERENA & LILY ’s Pacifi ca Dining Chair sets the stage for scenic dining al fresco. $898, Serena & Lily, Birmingham, serenaandlily.com
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3. A mirror hung where it can refl ect the water view is a must — this Cheville style by ARTERIORS is perfect for the job! $2,070, arteriors.com
4. The Hermosa Lounge Chair by PALECEK features a black aluminum frame that’s hand-wrapped in gray synthetic wicker. Price upon request, palecek.com
Get your fall color fix at the Sunrise Side’s inviting Lake Huron state parks and beyond
BY AMY S. ECKERT
As a longtime resident of west Michigan, I’m accustomed to staying up late to catch a brilliant Great Lakes sunset. Getting up early to catch a Great Lakes sunrise? That was something new to me.
Yet that was precisely what I found myself doing on a clear morning last September — heading out the door at 7 a.m. to see the sun poke its first rays above the glassy surface of Lake Huron at Bay City State Park. I had every reason to believe the experience would be worth the early wake-up call, imagining a magical pairing of the reds, violets, and oranges of sunrise with a similar palette of autumn foliage. I was right.
Northeast Michigan’s shore from Bay City north is called the “Sunrise Side” for obvious reasons. This corner of the Great Lakes State is also called Michigan’s “Quiet Side.” There are no serious traffic jams to contend with, no four-lane expressway whisking travelers from the Thumb to the Mackinac Bridge, no straight shot from Bay City to the Straits of Mackinac.
And that’s precisely why you should visit.
Your main route and the back roads around the region follow the twists and turns of the Lake Huron shoreline. U.S. 23 winds its way from one state park to the next, slowing as it passes through small towns, and tempting you to stop at farmers markets and beaches that alternate between golden sand and colorful pebbles. If you visit in fall, you’ll be drawn in by spectacular Instagram-worthy images of colorful hardwood trees reflected in the deep blue water.
The relaxed pace of a fall road trip on the Sunrise Side of Michigan offers plenty of rewards. Slowly soaking in fall’s colors is truly the best way to absorb them.
BAYSIDE BIRDING
Within the Lake Huron Bay City State Park’s Tobico Marsh, clusters of shoulder-high cattails bob in the breeze, their ripe brown flowers split open to release tufts of fluffy white seeds. The marsh’s 900-acre Tobico Lagoon attracts area mammals — sit still long enough and you’re likely to spot the telltale trail of a muskrat swimming across the water’s surface or see a deer sipping at the lagoon’s shore — and stands of brown- and gold-hued hardwoods rim the marsh’s edges.
The chief draw at Tobico Marsh is its abundant migratory bird population, which attracts avid birders every spring and fall. Encompassing 1,848 acres (more than 2.88 square miles), the marsh offers a welcome respite to hundreds of thousands of migrating birds of more than 200 species each fall, beginning in mid-September and lasting through October.
PLAN IT!
Michigan State Parks michigan.gov/dnr/places/state-parks
Heritage Route 23 us23heritageroute.org
Birdwatchers can expect to spot wading birds such as herons and sandhill cranes, and ducks like to linger near the lagoon. Wood warblers and flycatchers, buntings, and multiple varieties of woodpeckers flit among the marsh’s trees, resting up and refueling before continuing their journey south.
More than 5 miles of footpaths and boardwalks lead through the marsh, and two observation towers offer a treetop view of the landscape, whether your preference is to spy birds with binoculars or cameras.
LIGHTS & SHIPWRECKS
Follow M-13 and U.S. 23 north from Bay City and you’ll be treated to miles of expansive Lake Huron shoreline. On the northern reaches of Saginaw Bay, Tawas Point State Park sits on a sandy peninsula, crisscrossed by hiking trails and crowned by a towering white lighthouse and its red-roofed keeper’s house — a sharp contrast to the surrounding low dunes. After more than a year of work, renovations on the lighthouse are complete and the tower has reopened for seasonal tours.
Harrisville State Park, one of the first in Michigan, offers broad sandy beaches, two miles of nature trails through fragrant white pine and cedar forest, and campsites that are located right on the beautiful Lake Huron beach. It’s a Petoskey stone-hunters paradise!
The nearby Sturgeon Point Lighthouse and Museum stands watch just 5 miles north, its brilliant white tower and keeper’s building adorned with cherry-red shutters.
A long sandy spit leading to a 1.5-mile reef into the lake and a pebble-strewn beach glisten in shades of cream, orange, and brown, washed by the Lake Huron surf and glimmering in the autumn sunshine. The 1870-era lighthouse and museum are open seasonally for tours and tower climbs, and the isolated grounds with historic markers telling the stories of its life-saving station days are open all year.
Overlooking the protected waters of Thunder Bay, Alpena is a place that sailors have long sought out — and still do — as a safe retreat from the wide-open expanse of Lake Huron. Visitors also seek out the quiet solitude and hospitality of Alpena, where they enjoy magnificent lake vistas, visit local farm markets, explore downtown, and soak up the rich maritime history of Thunder Bay. Plus, the New and Old Presque Isle lighthouses just north of town are worth visiting.
Nearly 100 shipwrecks lie protected within the waters of the Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary,
the nation’s first freshwater sanctuary. The ships’ stories are told in dramatic detail through artifacts, interactive displays, and a shipwreck simulator at the sanctuary’s Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center.
Visitors also can head directly to the bay to enjoy the bold fall colors and temperate fall waters of Thunder Bay. There, glass-bottom boat tours take visitors across the waters for a downward peek and a sense of proximity to Shipwreck Alley and its storied ships, from summer into early October.
ALONG THE SUNRISE TRAIL
A thick stand of densely packed hardwood trees might be the last thing you’d expect of a plot of land once owned by a lumber baron. But that’s precisely the history of Hoeft State Park. Lumberman Paul Hoeft donated this 340-acre tract to the state in 1922 to create one of Michigan’s original 14 state parks. A stately picnic pavilion of fieldstone and local timbers stands on the property. The building, which was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the late 1930s, exudes history.
Hoeft State Park’s maple, beech, and oak trees glow with color in the fall. It’s an ideal time to walk the park’s mile of Lake Huron shore or hike its 4 miles of forested hiking trails.
Better yet, linger in this colorful corner of Michigan and follow the Huron Sunrise Trail from the seat of a bike. Stretching 8 miles along the Lake Huron shore, and cutting through Hoeft State Park and nearby Rogers City, the trail wends its way beneath a canopy of red- and yellow-hued leaves, past wide-open beaches, through low dunes, along the banks of the Trout River, and through meadows dotted with fall wildflowers like purple asters and black-eyed Susans. There are scores of places to stop, swim, or enjoy a picnic with a great view.
Fall is fleeting in Michigan, so get outdoors to explore these and the Sunrise Side’s other fantastic state parks, such as the delightfully isolated Negwegon, the boater’s safety of Thompson’s Harbor, or Cheboygan, which is celebrating its 100th birthday. The parks offer plenty of reasons to slow down and enjoy the annual color show. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a bald eagle or two.
ANCHORS AWAY
Step back in time and enjoy the charming ambience at the Terrace Inn in Petoskey, where a new owner is maintaining and restoring the hotel’s historic appeal.
84 Tasting Room
There’s some spooky history behind west Michigan’s Ghost Isle Brewery.
86 Dining Out
Brandy’s Harbortown features four distinct kitchens and a must-visit waterfront cabana.
88 Book It
A few smart updates are taking place at the Terrace Inn and 1911 Restaurant, thanks to new owner Mary Beth Bennett.
90 Discoveries
Explorers, grab your binoculars and head to five new nature preserves, from Traverse City to Allegan.
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Ghost Isle Brewery ghostislebrewery.com
Ghost Isle Brewery goes all out for fall, festooning the taphouse with pumpkins and gourds, and providing a palette that complements its toasty pours.
Full-Service Taphouse
There’s some spooky history behind west Michigan’s Ghost Isle Brewery
By Dianna Stampfler
When the Sima family decided to build a brewery in New Buffalo, overlooking the Galien River and its surrounding wetlands, they chose a name based on a spirited legend that’s been perpetuated by the community for decades.
Tucked into a 3.5-acre parcel between Red Arrow Highway (U.S. 12) and the still-active Amtrak train line, Ghost Isle Brewery was opened in April 2019 by Jim and Elizabeth Sima and their son, Bob, who learned the art of brewing at Chicago’s
esteemed Siebel Institute of Technology.
“The name Ghost Isle comes from a tiny island in the marsh. (It’s) known fondly as Ghost Island by kids who grew up in the area,” says Tyler Ream. “Rumor has it the island is haunted.”
Jim was among those kids who spent time exploring, swimming, and fishing around Ghost Island, which is identified as Riveria Island on maps. In fact, many locals over the age of 60 are likely to be familiar with the island’s cryptic past. Little is actually known about Ghost Island, but it’s believed to be an old Indian camp. Given the Miami, Iroquois, and Pottawatomi tribes all lived in the area at one time or another, this seems plausible. Now that the brewery is open, Jim spends time researching and documenting the history and folklore associated with the mysterious island.
The Sima family has longstanding ties to the community — four generations, in fact. In the 1950s, Jim’s grandfather purchased large tracts of land including 156 acres that were later donated to the Chikaming Open Lands conservancy and are now known as the Louis J. Sima Great Lakes Marsh.
Autumn is an especially vibrant time around the marsh, as the trees, grasses, and other native flora go through their colorful transformation. Ghost Isle Brewery provides a front-row seat to the seasonal show.
“Ghost Isle is well known for going all-out on Halloween decorations, inside and out,” Ream notes. “The deck becomes a cozy spot with bales of hay, pumpkins, gourds, skeletons, and more. The staff tends to meet the occasion with elaborate costumes, as well.”
As weather permits, the brewery’s outdoor patio, with seating for more than 100, remains a popular gathering space for locals and those passing through on a color tour. A fire pit adds to the ambience,
while also providing much-needed warmth on chilly fall days.
“My wife, Tici, and I discovered Ghost Isle Brewery shortly after they opened,” says David Bartlett, who travels the Lake Michigan coast from Saugatuck/Douglas to New Buffalo a couple times each year to enjoy time at Ghost Isle.
“Being fans of ghost stories and the like, we just had to visit when we saw the sign. Now, any time we’re in the area, it’s a must-stop for their crafted beers and great food options. Our favorite thing is sitting on the patio and catching a glimpse of the Amtrak speeding by on raised rails about 50 yards away.”
Beyond the glass overhead garage doors, the 7,000-square-foot taphouse and brewery offers another 100 seats, including 30 at the one-of-a-kind bar crafted of Buchanan walnut by area woodworkers.
Behind the bar, there are 18 taps serving up the brewery’s signature New Buffalo Pilsner, cool-weather seasonal stouts and porters, and Märzen-style Oktoberfest brews. Most are crafted in-house on the 10-barrel steam-jacked system by head brewer Dale VaDerra, an award-winning brewer from Arizona who sources local hops and other ingredients.
A handful of guest taps give customers added regional options. If committing to a pint of just one style is scary, a flight might be the way to go, with four 5-oz. samples. As a brewpub with a Class C liquor license, Ghost Isle also serves classic and specialty cocktails, wine, cider, and seltzer, plus a handful of non-alcoholic options.
Ghost Isle offers a diverse menu to complement its beer, including appetizers such as firecracker shrimp, salads with house-made dressings, sandwiches such as the Classic Isle burger, and a handful of land and sea entrees. For the kids, there are chicken tenders, macaroni bites, hot dogs, and a chargrilled 7-oz. burger. Desserts feature house-made, locally sourced specials from head chef Ryan Martin.
Ghost Isle offers brewery tours, live music on Fridays and Sundays into the fall, and the occasional cornhole match on the patio.
What Are You Craving?
Brandy’s Harbortown features four distinct kitchens and menus with offerings ranging from lobster enchiladas to burgers, dogs, and grain bowls
By Megan Swoyer
Photography by Jamie Morrison
to the popular lobster enchilada, German brats, and stuffed portobello sandwiches. Gorgeous sunsets are enjoyed throughout the year, thanks to new windows and doors that provide stunning views of Bay Harbor Lake Marina and beyond.
The Morrison family, including Bryant and his wife, Jamie, and Bryant’s twin brother, Philip, and his wife, Laura, has created a water’s-edge paradise where Jimmy Buffet would likely have felt right at home.
“The cabana is the draw,” says Philip, who adds that it’s open May through October, weather-permitting.
There’s a port on a northwestern bay, and it serves hundreds of folks a day. Sounds a bit like the Looking Glass song called Brandy (You’re a Fine Girl). Indeed, it’s Brandy’s Harbortown and, yes, the new restaurant/bar was named after the catchy 1972 song about a port on a western bay. You might not meet a Brandy here, but you will meet friendly waitstaff and your tastebuds will be introduced to some seriously memorable fare.
The spot that was once known as Knot Just a Bar — a longtime Lake Michigan destination in Bay Harbor, west of Petoskey — is, as of this past May, called Brandy’s Harbortown. Patrons can enjoy a tropical beverage at the new 20- by 40-foot cabana, sit in a yellow Adirondack chair around a fire pit and sip on the popular Painkiller (the rum and fresh nutmeg make this a truly a tasty concoction), or watch waterfront activity all while indulging in selections from crab cakes
The family, which runs two sister restaurants, including the nearby NOMAD and Maple + Batter, was approached by Rick Iceberg last fall to partner on the new project and assume the lease of the former Knot Just a Bar facility. Iceberg is a Michigan-based entertainment entrepreneur. (Read about NOMAD in the winter 2023 issue of BLUE .)
The Morrisons agreed, and the rest is destination-eatery history. The fab-four family members, who live in the Petoskey area, each bring different talents regarding business acumen. Jamie is responsible for social media and photography, and has a keen eye for design, while Laura has a hospitality degree from Michigan State University and oversees events.
Bryant and Philip, who are also Spartans, focused on accounting, information systems, supply chain, and finance while at college.
“The four of us came together and brought our ideas and design creativity,” Laura says. “While NOMAD is romantic and moody, this is all about bright and light.” Adds Philip: “We thought a lot
about what this space needed to be to serve a large patio. Having four individual kitchens was key, so we wouldn’t get overwhelmed with the magnitude of the volume coming in.”
The Morrisons decided to extend the layout to include a patio and cabana (replete with a white pine ceiling and rattan light fixtures) on what was formerly a large lawn that, Philip says, “wasn’t used for much in the past.” Two fire pits (60 and 48 inches) also were installed.
On the patio, pretty umbrellas in jaunty turquoise and yellow-green tones mingle with cheerful pale-yellow Adirondack chairs and white chairs and tables.
“Everything pops,” Laura says. The palette complements the blue-green waters of Little Traverse Bay and the Bay Harbor Marina, which offers deep-water access for mega yachts that are fun to ogle while enjoying Brandy’s offerings.
“Brandy’s welcomes families, babies, pets; pull up your boat or get out of the pool, and stop for lunch. It’s as casual and inviting as possible,” Bryant says, adding that patrons include guests at the Bay Harbor Inn, boaters, locals, and travelers.
“We took the facility down to the studs,” Bryant recalls. To capture what they call a “beachy-coastal” vibe indoors, they added a beadboard ceiling, gold accent lighting, a fluted wood bar, double French doors with huge windows (so when you’re inside, you feel like you’re outside), and the four separate kitchens with themed offerings. “It’s clean-lined and casual,” Philip says.
The overhaul included partnering with several Michigan companies: All countertops are from the Grand Rapids area’s Counterpoint, while Pro Image Design of Traverse City oversaw all signage. In addition, a lot of the products served at the restaurant are sourced from Michigan, including the micro greens, which come from Higher Love Farms in Gaylord, and wines from Mawby Vineyards and Winery in Suttons Bay.
“It’s a very social atmosphere here. People are interacting, talking about the menu, there’s a lot of movement and
activity,” Bryant says.
Colorful tiles are used to designate each kitchen. For example, there’s green for the Heirloom space and blue for the Fresh Catch section.
The Heirloom Kitchen specializes in healthy options such as grain bowls and salads that can be made as wraps. “We have quite a few gluten-free and vegan options. We want it welcoming to all,” Philip says.
The Wings + Beer area cooks up traditional-style baked wings and serves them with house-made sauces. There are two types of beer at this station.
In Brandy’s Kitchen, selections include the special Smash Burger, a grilled chicken sandwich, and Brandy’s Best Wurst, dripping with sauerkraut and curry cat-
sup tucked into a brioche bun. “Brandy’s Kitchen is all-American bar fare,” Philip says. “It also offers small bites such as Reuben egg rolls and fried pickles.”
The lobster quesadilla, with its poached lobster and smoked gouda, rules at the Fresh Catch Kitchen. Other popular selections include a lobster roll, served cold or warm, and fish tacos. If you’re a chip lover (aren’t we all?), try the Old Bay chips, which are house-made potato chips featuring a sprinkling of Old Bay seasoning.
If you’re at Brandy’s when live music is playing, it’s even more fun. “This is a come-as-you-are kind of place — flipflops and bathing suits are welcome. With the cabana bar, and to be this close to the water, there’s nothing like this in northern Michigan,” Philip says.
Brandy’s Harbortown is open seven days a week, year-round. Call ahead to find out which nights feature live entertainment.
PLAN IT!
Brandy’s Harbortown
brandysharbortown.com
In Good Hands
The Terrace Inn’s new owner makes it her mission to maintain and restore the hotel’s historic charms
By Megan Swoyer
Just a few months ago, Mary Beth Bennett found herself poring over dozens of paint swatches. All of them were a shade of white.
“There are a million whites!” exclaims the owner of the historic Terrace Inn in Petoskey. And although she was challenged to find just the right white, you can be sure the Bay View community innkeeper was committed to finding the perfect swatch to echo the inn’s historic exterior shade when it was built 113 years ago. “We started painting the front with Benjamin Moore’s Dove White, but it was too creamy,” Bennett says, “so we switched to Simply White (Benjamin Moore). It was a very hard decision.”
As of press time, the inn — which most recently sported di erent tones of pink, mauve, and green — should be entirely ensconced in its new white. The hue features the slightest hint of warmth, but is clean and crisp.
Bennett, who purchased the inn in 2023, decided that painting the building would be the major undertaking in her first year of ownership. “The color is like the original design. It’s very classic, very stately,” says Bennett, who lives in downtown Petoskey with her husband and their 3-year-old daughter.
“I have a thousand dreams for the inn, which is open throughout the year, but for now we’re making sure the structure is in good shape. We did some things you don’t see,” she says. “And we also did some soft updates in the dining room, like installing light fixtures that are more period-appropriate and design-focused.”
The building was constructed in 1911 by a banker from Indiana whose goal was to have his wife and daughters run it as a hotel. It’s been operating as an inn nonstop since then, except for when it served as a recovery hospital during WWII. Bennett first knocked on the inn’s front door in January of 2023. “I had heard the owners were retiring,” she recalls. “I knew it was something I’d really love.” At the time, Bennett was the general manager at the chic Siren Hotel in Detroit. “I gave the manager my business card and the owners, Mo Rave and Patty Rasmussen, called me and set up a meeting for the next
week. We came to a quick agreement.”
Bennett kept the staff that was in place and is grateful for all of them, including the efficient operations manager and executive chef.
On a recent evening at the inn’s 1911 Restaurant, many guests were savoring its renowned Great Lakes walleye and planked whitefish. Sitting in the dining room, replete with its original wood floors, or on the terrace looking out to expansive lawns, diners can also enjoy bone-in porkchops, lasagna, and other divine treats. In warmer weather, many visitors enjoy their cocktail hour beverage on the front porch. Bennett says special events are popular at the inn, thanks to the alluring terrace. “My mom got married here last September,” she shares. “We accommodated 40 people on the terrace; it was beautiful.”
The 38 guest rooms range from standard and charming queen and twin 200-squarefoot spaces to king rooms and super-roomy king suites with fireplaces. Some rooms have jet tubs and whirlpools. Whether guests need just 200 square feet, a full garden apartment (dog-friendly), or a family suite with separate rooms and a kitchenette, they’re bound to find the right fit. Every room has its own bathroom, which isn’t always typical of inns of this age and size.
The Victorian and early Edwardian vibe is alive and well, and history buffs love relaxing in the inn’s gathering spots. Wrought-iron beds, lace curtains, chandeliers, wicker and cottage-style furnishings, hemlock wood beams, vintage wallpaper, and original art throughout put the accent on vintage. A lot of the tables and chairs on the terrace are original. “We’ve had to replace some, and some have been rebuilt,” Bennett says. As for the somewhat-slanted flooring, she adds with a laugh: “It’s a little wonky, I’m not going to lie. But that happens with time.”
Bennett, who grew up in Harbor Springs and Rochester Hills, has always wanted to return to the area. “We moved to Harbor Springs when I was in high school; that was an amazing experience.”
After high school it was off to Boston University, where she received a degree
PLAN IT!
The Terrace Inn theterraceinn.com
king room has an
in hospitality administration. She worked in hotel management in Boston, and then moved to Chicago where she managed boutique hotels. Soon after, she managed a resort in Scottsdale, Ariz., until Miami Beach, Fla., called her name. Once Bennett and her husband moved to the Detroit area, they found they were spending more time Up North. “The end game was always to own a place up here,” Bennett says, sitting at one of the inn’s original tables on the large terrace. “We have long ties to this area. My grandmother still has a cottage here about a half-mile away.”
ABOUT THE BAY VIEW ASSOCIATION
The Bay View Association started in 1875, when a group of Michigan Methodists organized a meeting site for intellectual and scientific culture, and the promotion of morality. They wanted a wonderful summer climate and a beautiful location with access to railroads and lake steamers.
Today, the association is made up of members who live in many of the quaint cottages in the neighborhood, most of which are famous for their Victorian “gingerbread” decorations. Arts and cultural presentations and performances are de rigueur here, although many Michigan residents are still unaware that Bay View’s musical programs, Sunday morning worship services, and weekday religion and life lectures featuring nationally known speakers are available to the public.
Opportunities to experience Michigan’s great outdoors continue to expand with the opening over the past two years of several noteworthy nature preserves. Here are five areas worth checking out.
McDuffee Creek Nature Preserve
The Pere Marquette River’s Little South Branch, a state-designated Wild and Scenic River, and McDuffee Creek flow through this lush Land Conservancy of West Michigan Preserve in Bitely. It opened last fall, and packs plenty into its 300 acres.
In all, a 3,500-foot segment of the Little South Branch and more than 3,200 feet of frontage on both sides of McDuffee Creek are protected by the property and provide an ideal spawning habitat for salmon, steelhead, and trout.
A Walk in the Woods
Lush new nature preserves pack miles of trails and plenty of wildlife into fun outdoor outings
By Mark Spezia
A 4-mile trail system meanders through wetlands and forests teeming with a variety of wildlife and plants. Stretches of the trail offer views of the waterways and surrounding scenery, which is especially dramatic in the fall.
Come spring, the wooded lowland near McDuffee Creek is home to vernal pools that host creatures like fairy shrimp, fingernail clams, and wood frogs.
“This is a beautiful place to explore in all seasons, but it’s especially vibrant in fall,” says LCWM’s advancement manager, Marie Orttenburger. “The northwest trail loop leads hikers through an aspen grove, which glows bright yellow in fall. Crimson-hued red maples, deep-emerald hemlocks, and towering white pines can also be viewed throughout the preserve, which is home to many species of animal life. You may even spot a porcupine.”
Turtle Cove Nature Preserve
The 120-acre Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy property, located roughly 10 miles southeast of Traverse City, opened in December and features a three-quarter-mile stretch of undeveloped Arbutus Lake shoreline, including the preserve’s namesake, Turtle Cove. The cove provides an ideal habitat for fish, amphibians, and invertebrates.
A 1.7-mile trail loops through a variety of habitats and a portion of it hugs the western shoreline of the lake. Hikers pass through mesic northern forest, dry-mesic northern forest, open fields, a steep bluff overlooking the lake, and a riparian area. There’s also a section of dry sand prairie and a leatherleaf bog.
Plant life and towering trees abound, including white pine, sugar maple, and oak, along with native flowers, ferns, and grasses. Coralroot, a type of wild orchid, blooms come fall.
Camping is available at Arbutus Lake State Forest Campground, which is located along the north side of the preserve. Pines Park, a natural area owned by East Bay Township, borders the west side.
“The trail follows Turtle Cove’s varied topography and offers great views of Arbutus Lake, with open views of the lake in fall
and early spring,” says GTRLC stewardship specialist Steve Lagerquist. ”The cove has a variety of interesting vegetation, including water lilies that produce a fantastic fragrance, and it’s home to turtles and fish. In summer, birders can experience nesting bald eagles, great blue heron, hermit thrush, indigo bunting, and scarlet tanager.”
Melvin Family Hiking & Biking Trails
Scenic and hilly, yet designed for mountain bikers of all levels, the 150-acre Little Traverse Conservancy preserve opened in April and sits between Mullett and Burt lakes north of Topinabee in Cheboygan County.
An 8.5-mile trail system features 10 paths of varying lengths, including three designated as biking and hiking, six strictly for biking (no e-bikes allowed), and a hiking-only trail, as it follows old logging roads. Mountain bikers encounter fun obstacles like gravity trails, sidewinder segments, skills features, rollers, and berms.
Trails wind through rolling terrain marked by oak, beech, aspen, and red maple trees. Some of the trails’ most notable
highlights are the stunning views, especially during fall, of Mullett Lake — the state’s fifth-largest inland lake.
Mullett Lake is best seen from a ridge on the property’s east side.
“Our Melvin trails go through beautiful hilly and very wooded terrain,” says the Little Traverse Conservancy’s director of communications and outreach, Anne Fleming. “The area is gorgeous when the fall colors are peaking, of course, but the view of Mullett Lake when the leaves are down is amazing.”
Saginaw River Headwaters Rec Area
Once an industrial site, this 334-acre park at the confluence of the Shiawassee and Tittabawassee rivers, which forms the Saginaw River, opened in April of 2023.
The property includes wetlands, several shallow-water ponds, and wooded sections. More than 3 miles of trails wander through the vibrant landscapes and along the river. The trails are perfect for hiking, biking, and birdwatching; fishing is permitted from the Saginaw River shore. An
Below:
Area is a great spot for catching a pretty sunset. Once an industrial site, it now boasts shallow-water ponds and inviting wooded sections.
PLAN IT!
McDuffee Creek
interpretive timeline at the park entrance details the rich history of the site.
Future development plans call for additional trails, observational overlooks, a fishing platform, and the planting of more than 1,000 trees and native pollinators.
To the southeast are the Shiawassee National Wildlife Refuge and Shiawassee State Game Area, which offer more than 18,000 acres of protected lands and miles of trails. Greenpoint Nature Center is to the west.
“With its accessible trails, various wetlands, and high points at its center, this property provides some of the most unique views in the region,” says Saginaw County Parks and Recreation Director Brian Keenan-Lechel. “There are great opportunities for birding and wildlife viewing throughout the park. It’s also a great place to catch a sunset.”
Armintrout-Milbocker Nature Preserve Showcasing astounding biodiversity, this 142-acre Southwest Michigan Land Conservancy gem just south of Allegan opened in the fall of 2022. More than 560 different documented plant species are found throughout the preserve’s 80 acres of pine and oak forest and 60 acres of wetland, which is home to about 25 percent of all plant types that grow in Michigan.
Armintrout also boasts 3 miles of Kalamazoo River frontage. Some sections of the preserve’s two loop trails, totaling more than 2 miles, take hikers more than 60 feet above the river, while another stretch meanders through a forested floodplain. Towering trees range from a red oak with a trunk measuring 5 feet in diameter to the unique honey locust. The rare hairy leafcup flower also grows in the preserve, which is home to coyotes, deer, and owls.
“Our preserve is a peaceful refuge, a hidden pocket of nature that’s conveniently close to downtown Allegan but still a world away,” says Amelia Hansen, the
Nature Preserve naturenearby.org/explore
Turtle Cove Nature Preserve gtrlc.org
Melvin Family Hiking & Biking Trails landtrust.org/explore
Saginaw River Headwaters Rec Area saginawcounty.com/ departments/parks-recreation
Armintrout-Milbocker Nature Preserve swmlc.org/armintroutmilbocker-nature-preserve
Southwest Michigan Land Conservancy’s media specialist. “With an unusually wide array of plant varieties, it practically glows with fall color, especially when the red and yellow maples, rich brown oaks, and dark green pines frame gorgeous natural views of the Kalamazoo River from up close and high above.”
Dalton & Tomich, PLC
WWhile living on a Michigan WaterWay can be rewarding, it can also come with challenges. One issue that waterfront owners can encounter is encroaching neighbors. The attorneys at Dalton & Tomich, PLC, deal with many of these issues. In responding to waterfront issues, there are multiple approaches that might be successful. The following success stories illustrate some of these.
Greg and Susan live on a canal with an out-lot next door. The plat specifies certain uses for the out-lot. Recently, neighbors began using the out-lot for docking boats, which is not permitted under the plat. The neighbors’ use was preventing the legitimate use of the outlot. After sending a letter to the neighbors and seeing no changes, Greg and Susan elected to file suit in circuit court. Ultimately, the attorneys at Dalton & Tomich
were able to secure an order directing the neighbors to cease the illegal use of the out-lot, allowing it to be used as intended.
In another part of Michigan, Rose owns a lakefront home. She purchased the home with the intention of allowing her guests to swim and launch kayaks from her beach. However, a backlot owner placed a dock and boat adjacent to Rose’s beach, and they encroached on Rose’s bottomlands. Rose spoke with the neighbor herself, but he was unwilling to move the dock and boat. On Rose’s behalf, Dalton & Tomich sent a letter to the neighbor instructing him to respect Rose’s property. Within a few days, the encroachments were removed, and Rose now enjoys her beach uninterrupted. While each case is unique, and not all cases resolve like this, the attorneys at
Dalton & Tomich offer multiple options for resolving neighbor disputes. A free, 30-minute consultation can help you decide next steps. Visit daltontomich.com to learn more.
Dalton & Tomich, PLC
719 Griswold St., Suite 270 Detroit, MI 48226
313-859-6000
daltontomich.com
Shining Glory
Floating down memory lane at the 150-year-old Little Sable Point Lighthouse
By Patty LaNoue Stearns | Photo by Todd and Brad Reed Photography
In 1961, my parents bought a piece of Michigan heaven — a 2.47-acre lot just up the road from Little Sable Point Lighthouse in Oceana County, near Mears.
I was 11. I had never seen a lighthouse up close, and the majesty of this one — nestled in the golden dunes, with the cerulean-blue sky and the deeper hue of Lake Michigan as the backdrop — simply blew me away.
When our tribe of nine settled nearby, the lighthouse was painted white and remnants of the former lighthouse keeper’s home kept guard over the sandy beach. Over the years, my family built a cottage, surfed in the big waves of the lake, and watched as the lighthouse’s bricks were
sandblasted and returned to their original red. On clear evenings, my sisters and I grabbed our sleeping bags and spread them out on the dunes for a night-long adventure that included watching for shooting stars, feeling the cool breezes coming off the lake, and being aware of the calming comfort of the lighthouse’s intermittent beacon.
Three centuries earlier, French explorers called the site “Petite Pointe au Sable” (little point of sand), a name the lighthouse kept until 1910. The 115-foot-tower was designed by Orlando Metcalf Poe and completed in 1874 to guide busy ship traffic headed to the area’s bustling lumber markets.
The lighthouse is topped with a copper
roof; below that, a decagonal lantern room houses the light’s original thirdorder Fresnel lens. Made in Paris, the lens features hand-ground glass prisms that intensify the glow of a center lamp, which, before electrification in 1954, originally burned lard oil.
Little Sable’s lens also was rare in that its lower and center sections were fixed, while its upper section revolved, powered by a weight-driven clockwork mechanism. Every 11 hours, light-keepers had to manually wind it so it would flash at fixed intervals.
Today, the now-fixed-movement 40,000-candlepower light flashes white and its range reaches up to 19 nautical miles. Those who love Little Sable as much as I do (or those who want to learn more about the structure and its history) can tour the lighthouse, celebrate its shining 150 years, and take a plunge in the lake afterward!
For more information on tour hours: Sable Point Lighthouse Keepers Association, 231-845-7417, splka.org. Photo information: toddandbradreed.com.