Tuscany the Etruscans'spirit by Gruppo Editoriale srl

Who were the Etruscans and what’s left in Tuscany of the ancient Etruscan civilization? We ventured on a journey, in a very contemporary style, through the tastes, savoir-faire and passions of one of the most important civilizations of the Mediterranean area, who flourished in the Central Italian regions- mostly Tuscany and Laziobetween the 9th and 2nd centuries B.C. Initially farmers and sheep farmers, the Etruscans always remained faithful to their peasant origins and to the call of nature, even when they had developed into skillful ship-owners and traders and ventured on long voyages across the sea. They were sensitive to the arts, clever with technology, gifted with a talent for manual craftsmanship and sophisticated aesthetes. They did not have a capital city, but a repeatable system of 12 confederate cities. And Etruscan women, unlike their Greek and Roman counterparts, were considered to be equal to men. For a long time, and perhaps wrongfully, the Etruscans have been associated with the cult of the dead. The latest studies, however, tend to focus on the many aspects of the everyday life of this joyful, mobile and cosmopolitan civilization. Their energy and vitality, as well as their extraordinarily contemporary “liquidity”, do not emerge from the cryptic language which has made them so fascinating and mysterious, but rather from material evidence. The tombs themselves, with their decorations and possessions of the deceased, contribute to shed new light on the Etruscans’ customs and traditions. In accordance with this new point of view, our intent is to provide a key, even photographic, to the reading of the Etruscans’ settlement in Tuscany, in order to describe their spirit, which survives in many aspects of the so-called Tuscan style, rather than their history.

PHOTO ALESSANDRO MOGGI

THE ETRUSCANS C O N T E M P O R A RY PEOPLE

CON T ENTS

HARMONY In step with nature

FLUIDITY

CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES, JEWELRY

Our cultural roots

When the “Etruscan style” was all the rage

CRAFTS AND DÉCOR Lords of iron and clay

SPORTS AND ENTERTAINMENT

ART AND ARCHITECTURE Masters of figurative art

FOOD AND PRODUCTS

A civilization in love with life

and makers of fluid cities

Family banqueting

FLUIDITÃ&#x20AC;

Ombra della sera 3rd century B.C., bronze, 57 cm. Volterra, Guarnacci Museum 2

FLUIDITĂ&#x20AC;

FLU I DI TY OUR CULTURAL ROOTS

You can easily tell if someone comes from Tuscany by the way they speak or by watching them sip a glass of wine or season their salad, or even build a dry-stone wall. In Tuscany, a magical sense of grace and inborn beauty pervades the basilicas and historic buildings in the cities and the farmhouses and landscape in the countryside. If so many different qualities, however, were able to fuse and consolidate into a single language, we owe it to our original cultural roots, the Etruscans. Mobile and cosmopolitan people, the Etruscans became very wealthy and open-minded by trading with other flourishing cultures. They brilliantly assimilated the manufacturing traditions and customs of other people, adapting them to their own lifestyle and vision of the world. In the pages that follow, we examine the architectural and landscape traces which provide an enduring testimony to such cultural roots through history, in an attempt to identify their solid, as much as fluid, origins.

FLUIDITÀ

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence’s Duomo, was completed with the dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in 1418. It remains the world’s largest masonry dome (ph. Lorenzo Cotrozzi) 4

FLUIDITĂ&#x20AC;

Tanella di Pitagora, a cylindrical mausoleum with a diameter of about seven meters, between Camucia and Cortona, 3rd -2nd century B.C. 5

Annunciation by Beato Angelico, fresco circa 1442. National Museum of San Marco, Florence (ph. Pasquale Paradiso)

FLUIDITĂ&#x20AC;

Detail of a sculpted bas-relief Lasa, MAEC Cortona. Angels in the Christian tradition may have been inherited from the mysterious Lase, demigoddesses venerated by the Etruscans and depicted as feathered winged figures wearing a tunic 7

FLUIDITĂ&#x20AC;

Sorano, in the Maremma area, one of the few villages dating back to the Etruscan age, which is still populated 8

FLUIDITĂ&#x20AC;

Detail of a building built in 2014 on Via Vittorio Gui, in the Stazione Leopolda area, Florence (ph. Lorenzo Cotrozzi) 9

Deposition from the Cross by Rosso Fiorentino, 1521, oil on wood, Pinacoteca e Museo Civico of Volterra 10

FLUIDITÃ&#x20AC;

FLUIDITÀ

Exterior detail of the new wing of Prato’s Centro Pecci, designed by Maurice Nio and inaugurated in 2016 (ph. Fernendo Guerra) 12

FLUIDITÀ

Etruscan remains in Cortona’s countryside 13

HARMONY

A typical hilly Tuscan landscape, dotted with olive and cypress trees and vineyards, near Volterra 14

HARM ON Y

SUSTAINABLE PEOPLE AHEAD OF THEIR TIME

HARMONY

IN STE P WITH NAT U R E A world of farmers and merchants who knew how to combine environmental protection with culture and traditions “Finally home!”, she said, while she

she said with a smile- is unrivalled

deftly jumped off her horse and

when it comes to appearance and

none of the servants who rushed

strength. We should start shipping it

in the courtyard dared help her,

along with the most beautiful piec-

knowing that their mistress wanted

es of that wonderful amber that the

to have the horse taken care of first

goldsmiths in Vatl (Vetulonia) are

thing. “He does the hard job!- she

working on now…..nothing should

always said- He climbs up the road

be left unattempted. They are well

and bears my weight and all that it

organized in Pupluna (Populonia),

represents!” She motioned for the

I’ve seen them at work on my way

aulete to play his flutes and the ser-

back. Their iron is good quality and

vant in charge of the house to follow

we should learn how to better work

her into the room she considered as

our Accesa mines”. The servant lis-

her own now, the one she had once

tened to his mistress silently: since

shared with her husband. The cart

her husband had died seven years

carrying the goods and bags was

earlier and she had been left alone,

due to arrive in a few hours’ time,

childless, everyone- in the house-

but that was none of her concern

hold, in the family and in town-

anymore. The room’s stone slab

had expected her to remarry quite

flooring had been polished and

quickly. But she had declared that

the bed of river pebbles on which

she would not have another man

the table and stools were placed to

in her life and that everyone would

reduce indoor humidity- the same

finally see what the daughter of

she had had installed in the thala-

Begoe, the splendid nymph who

mus- was fragrant with the scent

not only interpreted the meaning

of freshly washed wool, which had

of lightning strokes but also taught

been softened with beeswax. “Our

farmers the rules of land marking,

wool, although rough to the touch-

was really made of.

Left page. Above: the Grotte Necropolis at the Archeological and Naturalistic Park of Baratti and Populonia Below: the Tuff City of Sorano 17

HARMONY

And she had worked hard to en-

ancient Greek and Roman world

large the fields planted with em-

which

mer wheat and vines, which she

scene for many centuries, gender

had also started to export- the

difference was not viewed as a

same she wanted to do with iron-

value, as is testified by the ancient

and she had made improvements

sarcophagi, sculptures and figures

on the house and on the work-

depicted on vases, in which the

shops where servants and lautni

bride and groom appear of the

(freed slaves) worked, by build-

same height and busy doing the

ing houses for them and a small

same activities, including farming

temple dedicated to Begoe. The

and trading, which we can also see

fields were accurately farmed and

on some of the surviving steles.

plowed and sowing was performed

In the early phase of the Etruscan

according to the waters and differ-

civilization, that fertile Italian re-

ent soil types. And there was always

gion which the Greeks called â&#x20AC;&#x153;land

music playing in the background,

of the calvesâ&#x20AC;?, was dotted with

as befitted the daughter of her

farms and a few houses gathered

father, who always had the bread

in villages. The soil was red-colored

kneaded beside an aulete, while

and rich and the fields were plant-

other flute players entertained the

ed with olive trees and vineyards,

deer and wild boar hunters on their

surrounded by wild myrtle and

hunts in the countryside.

lentisk, rosemary and lavender,

In the Etruscan society, unlike the

pine trees (whose wood was used

dominated

the

cultural

Right page: a detail of the so-called Vie Cave, a sort of narrow trenches running deeply through tuff cliffs in the Maremma area 19

HARMONY

Left: Tomba delle Pissidi Cilindriche, an example of Etruscan tumulus tomb in the Necropolis of San Cerbone, Populonia. Right: the Gulf of Baratti, where the Etruscan city of Pupluna (Populonia) was located, known for its intense metallurgic activity based on the production of iron.

Right page: cluster pines surrounding the Gulf of Baratti 20

to build ships) and cypress trees,

stone, whereas the walls and roofs

which still line the less busy roads

were built of wood and straw and

winding through Tuscanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweet

baked clay bricks.

hills and toward the sea.

Houses were built in hilly areas or

Today, the Etruscans would be de-

at the foot of the hills, which were

scribed as eco-friendly people, who

considered to be more easily de-

paid great attention to environ-

fendable

mental impact to ensure a safe and

Gulfs served as major port sites,

livable future for the generations

from which the Etruscans export-

to come. Their roads, with steles

ed iron, such as the Port of Baratti,

spaced out at about every six miles,

whereas the inland towns like Volt-

did not modify the landscape, but

erra would use Vada as a port. The

rather blended in with it and, al-

Elba Island was very rich in mines,

though the Etruscans were great

from which precious iron was ex-

town planners- the first civilization

tracted and transported to the

to build walled cities according

seaside town of Pupluna to be pro-

to specific town plans,

and

healthier

places.

includ-

cessed. At least until the Romans

ing streets, usually unpaved dirt

took over the rich mines of Carin-

streets, and sidewalks, sewerage

thia, in the lands of the Illyrians and

systems and aqueducts which the

Celts. And the Etruscans eventually

Romans would further develop-

assimilated in the Roman society,

both private and public buildings

while leaving, however, their indeli-

had only the foundations made of

ble mark on it.

HARMONY

FASHION

Woman’s Bust in “fetida” stone, mid-6th century B.C, National Etruscan Museum of Chiusi 22

CLOT HI NG ACCESSOR I ES JEWE L RY

SOPHISTICATED AESTHETES, THEY LOVED BRIGHT CLOTHING AND COLORS

FASHION

WHE N THE ET RUSCA N STY L E WAS AL L T H E RAG E Vipia Vetes and the picture of a sophisticated Etruscan lady

Vipia Vetes enjoyed showing off her

control unknown to other peo-

cascade of curls. She was seen mov-

ples. Unlike Roman women, Etrus-

ing gracefully about the villages of

can females played an active role in

Comeana and Artimino, an Etrus-

social life. And even Vipia partook of

can settlement on the Pratese side

banquets lying down, and not seat-

of the Montalbano mountain, faith-

ed like Roman women usually did.

ful to the canons of hairdressing

An aristocratic lady with very so-

which were popular in the 5 centu-

phisticated tastes, in summertime

ry B.C. The young Etruscan girl was

Vipia wore dresses of the finest

proud of the long curls brushing

linen, decorated with precious em-

her shoulders or tied into a braid on

broidery and gold leaves, enriched

top of her head and kept in place by

with colorful fringes and painted

wearing a pileus, a felt cap. Vipia Ve-

flounces, cinched at the waist with

tes is not a fictional character. This

a belt. In wintertime, Vipia preferred

high-ranking lady actually existed:

wearing woolen clothing in bright

her name is engraved on a funerary

colors and richly embroidered.

stele on display at Artimino’s Arche-

She was greatly influenced by the

ological Museum. We like to pic-

Oriental-style trends which inspired

ture her as a young, independent,

Etruscan fashion in the years 730-

emancipated girl, proud of her pre-

580 B.C. In the beginning, Etruscan

nomen (Vipia) preceding her aristo-

women wore long braids tied with a

cratic name (Vetes), treated in the

ring. Had the camera been already

same way as men. Etruscan equal-

invented, Vipia would have most

ity between men and women is not

likely seen this hairstyle in the pic-

a creation of our imagination: “the

tures of her female ancestors, who

other half of the sky”, in the Etrus-

lived in the 6th century B.C. One cen-

can culture, enjoyed an indepen-

tury later, the young Vipia would

dence and freedom from male

choose a more elaborate and so-

Etruscan women wore colored cloaks over light-weight tunics falling down to their feet, closely pleated and with decorated hemlines 25

FASHION

T H E ET RUSCANS E NJOYE D WEAR ING CARE FULLY DETAILED A ND COLO R ED CLOTHI NG. WOME N CO MPLETED T H E I R LO O K WITH R EFINE D PIECES O F J EWELRY phisticated hairstyle, accessorized

were Vipia’s tools of seduction, the

with jewelry and ornaments, includ-

same used by her Etruscan and

ing small ivory combs decorated

Greek peers. Vipia gave much atten-

with figures of imaginary animals.

tion to her appearance: she made

Her wardrobe’s “key piece” was the

up her eyes with colored powders

chiton, a Hellenic-style tunic held

or fatty matters mixed with mineral

in place at the waist with a belt and

or vegetable colorings, the primitive

draped in folds. It was sewn to fit

version of today’s eye-shadows.

her figure perfectly, with soft and

The most popular colors were light

light drapes, made of fine fabrics as

pink and saffron yellow. She also

light-weight as silk, which had been

used powdered malachite for eye

brought to Etruria from Greece, Syr-

make-up to add a touch of deep

ia and Egypt, fastened by precious

green, a red-colored, myrtle-scent-

pins and enriched with earrings,

ed rouge made of tallow (an ani-

bracelets, rings and necklaces. Ele-

mal fat), and mineral vermillion on

gant from head to toe. In summer-

the lips. Vipia was not the only one

time, the young Etruscan girl wore

who enjoyed looking at herself in

light sandals, heavier shoes in the

the mirror. These precious bronze

cold weather, clogs with removable

objects, usually decorated with in-

soles by means of a zip fastener

scriptions, were kept stored in ac-

mechanism, and overshoes covered

tual beauty cases found in Etruscan

with thin layers of bronze on rainy

tombs. Ladies of the house, fond of

days. Vipia’s favorite shoes, howev-

partying and banqueting as much

er, were pointed upwards and were

as their husbands and attentive to

embellished with colored ribbons,

all things related to body care and

studs and thin chains.

fashion: Etruscan women were not

She knew how to get to men’s heart.

as different from us as one might

Ointments, perfumes, eye liners

suppose.

FASHION

An Etruscan cinerary urn, detail of the body. Guarnacci Museum, Volterra 27

FASHION

WOM E N, P E R FU MES JEWE L RY. A LO NG LOV E STO RY Thana Plecunia and the precious ointments which were a status symbol of beauty and high rank

Thana Plecunia’s birthday was ap-

That mix of exotic essences came

proaching. It was her eighteenth,

from a far-away country, much to

the most special one. “There must

the young girl’s delight. Moringa

be a reason for me being named

trees, from which the essence was

after the goddess of moonlight. On

extracted, grew, in fact, in Sudan

that day, my skin will have to be as

and Egypt. “So it’s true, Etruscans

glowing as a goddess’ skin”. It was

are perfume importers after all”,

a young lady’s whim, while a glori-

the young lady said to herself. Tha-

ous civilization was declining. Thana

na was a beautiful, smart and sexy

lived in Clevsi, the ancient name of

girl: just like her peers, she knew

Chiusi. On the eve of her birthday,

that perfume was not only some-

she asked her parents for a special

thing to boast about but, first and

hair and body perfume.

foremost, a status symbol of beau-

It was the 2

century B.C. and this

ty and high rank for any Etruscan

prosperous town which connected

woman.

Rome and Northern Etruria was still

Perfumes and ointments were not

ruled by noble Etruscan families, be-

only used as beauty products on a

fore submitting to Rome’s domin-

daily basis, but also for therapeu-

ion. The young Thana was a member

tic and hygienic purposes, not to

of one of these families. Her request

mention the Etruscans’ burial prac-

was granted: her parents gave her a

tices. Thana knew it well. When

special ointment, a mixture of mo-

her great-grandmother died, she

ringa oil (used also by the ancient

was buried was an ointment kept

Greeks and Egyptians), pine tree

in a specially provided container. It

and lentisk resin. The ointment was

was one of the many objects bur-

kept in an unguentarium ( a small

ied with the deceased, a sign of a

bottle) made of

wealthy life on earth. It is, in fact,

alabaster, which

had been quarried in Egypt.

no chance that Thana’s “beauty

Left page: necklace with gold pin, Guarnacci Museum, Volterra 29

FASHION

The pursuit of luxury and beauty and the attention to elegance were the distinguishing features of the Etruscans’ goldsmith’s art. This ancient civilization was able to create pieces of jewelry of the highest craftsmanship

case” was found about ten years

pieces of jewelry. Small works of

ago by archaeologists in a necrop-

art to be carefully treasured. Thana

olis near Chiusi: the beauty kit (two

would never go out without wear-

bronze rings, a pair of tweezers,

ing her mother’s elegant fibula, a

two combs) included an alabaster

brooch that she used to fasten her

unguentarium of Egyptian origin.

tight-fitting cloak. It was a gold-

Inside the small bottle was a mix of

en brooch, made by using a spe-

oils. And to say that the Etruscans’

cial granulation technique. Just

favorite fragrances used to be cin-

like her perfumes, Thana’s jewelry

namon, saffron, myrrh, aloe and

came from far-away countries.

cyprus extracts, followed later on

Even granulation was a technique

by nutmeg, pine tree, sandalwood

imported from the Far East, a dec-

and musk. The most expensive es-

oration process in which minute

sence, however, was ambergris,

grains of gold were applied to a

which had been brought to Eu-

surface. The Etruscan goldsmith’s

rope by Alexander the Great’s fleet

art reached its height between

century B.C. Thana was

the mid-7th century and the late

crazy about it. She would always

6th century B.C., in the Vetulonia

wear it on special occasions, such

and Vulci area. By the time Thana

as banquets with other aristocrat-

lived, between 150 and 50 B.C., and

ic families from Clevis. Everyone

wore earrings, diadems, bracelets

partaking in the banquet would

and rings, this was a thing of the

show off precious ornaments and

past.

in the 4

Above to the left: one of the mirrors kept at the National Archeological Museum of Chiusi Above to the right: rings were enriched with cut gems or embossed settings Left page: one of the finds kept at the National Archeological Museum of Chiusi 31

SPORT

SPO RTS A N D ENTERTA I N M EN T THE PASTIMES OF PEOPLE WHO ENJOYED LIFE TO THE FULLEST

SPORT

A CIV IL IZAT I O N IN LOV E W I T H L I F E The Etruscans enjoyed having fun and every form of entertainment, even sports had to be spectacular

Tullia was always thrilled to spend

tory over the Latins with solemn

the summer season in Populo-

games featuring boxers and hors-

nia. It was such a fun city, not

es coming from Etruria for the oc-

one single day went by without

casion.

a sporting event taking place.

Horse racing and boxing com-

And she did think that cousin

petitions were the most popular

Volumno was quite good-look-

sports, mostly because the Etrus-

ing, now that his front teeth had

cans, notoriously pleasure-seek-

been fixed. But, most of all, Tullia

ers, enjoyed watching more than

(our imaginary guide) couldn’t

participating. They were not ob-

wait to get out of the suffocating

sessed with physical appearance

heat of Rome, where her fami-

as much as the Greeks, although

ly of merchants had settled. She

they were very concerned with

loved travelling by sea, but only in

their health. They were known

spring and summertime, when it

for growing officinal herbs, they

was safer.

were skilled dentists, as testified

And Tullia didn’t care that the

by golden dentures, both remov-

Greeks, some of whom lived in

able and fixed.

Gravisca, viewed them as mere

Experienced surgeons, the Etrus-

pillagers

corsairs.

cans considered the liver to be

“They are only envious”, her fa-

the key organ, the source of ev-

ther would tell her. He traded in

erything. An alabaster model fea-

hulls which he bought in Volter-

turing an actual mapping can be

the

sea,

ra. Tullia didn’t like the Romans

seen in Volterra. The aruspices

either, they were too rude. It was

read the future on it. But Tullia

a well-known fact that Tarquinius

didn’t care about all this, she was

Priscus (the fifth king of Rome,

young and full of life and wanted

an Etruscan), celebrated a vic-

to have fun. She would have en-

Boxing competitions were performed by wearing gloves made with strips of leather outside and soft wool inside 35

SPORT

The Etruscans enjoyed watching sports competitions which required strength, ability and courage, but they also liked to play challenging games which involved brain power and strategy to be completed

joyed watching the horse races,

endless number of shows in the

which ran through an entangling

village next to the palazzo-farm

maze of hedgerows, but they

where she spent her holidays.

were reserved for the aristocrats,

Tullia loved that place, where

while everyone else could attend

men wore broad-brimmed hats

the chariot races. The Etruscans

(at the village’s museum) that

perfected chariot racing by in-

looked like sombreros. Shows

troducing the use of the triga, a

and sporting events were held

three horse-drawn chariot, as can

throughout the summer season:

be seen on the stele of Palazzo di

ballet performances, athletics,

Murlo, but also on the Francois

javelin throw, pankration (a mix

Vase at Florence’s Archeological

of wrestling and boxing) and

Museum. They were more stable

boxing, which was performed by

than the Greek two horse-drawn

slaves. The purpose of all events

chariots, and the auriga, the driv-

was to entertain the audience. As

er, wore a short tunic, the chiton,

a matter of fact, these competi-

unlike the long, Greek-style one,

tions, unlike those performed by

and the reins were kept tied be-

the Greeks, were always attended

hind the back instead of in the

by auleti who played the double

driver’s hands.

flute and created a musical back-

Murlo was another of Tullia’s fa-

ground (Archeological Museum

vorite summer destinations, the

and Tomb of the Monkey in Chi-

place where she could enjoy an

usi).

Above: one of the reliefs kept in Chiusi. Left page: a black-figured vase kept at the National Archeological Museum of Chiusi 37

SPORT

Music was a central part of the Etruscans’ life. The notes of the instruments and voices accompanied all daily activities: from working to banqueting, public and religious ceremonies, hunting, sports competitions and even war

Above: black-figured vases from the National Archeological Museum of Chiusi Right page: frescoes of the Tomb of Colle Casuccini, in Chiusi 38

There were also musicians playing

wigs and masks. The Etruscans

citharas and seven-string lyres,

valued farce over tragedy.

and trumpets. For Tullia, there

They dedicated night-long rituals

was nothing more fun than that.

to Fufluns (the Etruscan equiva-

Not all sporting events, however,

lent of the Greek God Dionysus)

were so pleasant to watch. Every

to honor the dead. The Etruscans

time she attended a performance

also played party games, such as

by a Phersu, she ran away before

Tabula Lusoroia (Tomb of the

the end, disgusted by that grue-

Monkey in Chiusi), the earliest

some show. She could not stand

precursor of modern chess, and

the sight of the Phersu, a masked

Kottabos, a sort of target shoot-

man, the precursor of modern

ing game played by flinging a

Pulcinella, who incited a savage

portion of wine left in one’s drink-

dog against a hooded prison-

ing cup to a precariously placed

er armed with a weapon to de-

target

fend himself. A cruel show, which

hoops toward a stand with a stat-

would develop into the gladiator

uette on top. The Etruscans were

games in the Roman age.

also passionate dice players. Dic-

While the Phersu was a violent

es can be found painted on vas-

form of entertainment, the fersi, a

es and among the objects with

masked race, was hilarious (Sarte-

which the dead were buried. And

ano). Even plays were very amus-

they were crazy about greasy

ing. Actors wore false beards and

pole games (Chiusi).

throwing

grace

SPORT

DESIGN

A bronze chandelier originally designed for a religious building, 4th century B.C., MAEC Cortona. 40

CRA FTS AND DÃ&#x2030;COR A SYNCRETISM OF FORM AND FUNCTION OOZING WITH CHARM AND MYSTERY

DESIGN

LO R DS OF I RO N AND C L AY Larth Tharnie and Etruscan spare-style “design”, a source of elegance and charm

“Forge the weapons. I demand the

and objected to Larth’s request.

most powerful ones”. Axes, cuirasses,

“I’ve known you for a long time, my

lances and swords: Larth Tharnie not

dear friend. I know that you are not

only was the Lord of the prosperous

made to be a warrior”. Actually, the

Volterra, which had become a dense-

Etruscans were a pacifist rather

ly populated town between the 4

than belligerent civilization: they

and 1st century B.C., surrounded by

resorted to war only if attacked. But

seven kilometers of boundary walls

history was running its course and

to protect the population from the

Larth Tharnie had to protect Ve-

Celts and Romans. He also posed as

lathri (Volterra) from the Romans,

a headstrong warrior who knew ex-

although the Etruscan town would

actly where to find the artisans who

always manage to remain indepen-

would provide him with the most

dent from Rome somehow. Around

sophisticated arsenal. The people of

the mid-3rd century B.C., however,

Etruria were master craftsmen when

Volterra joined the Italic confedera-

it came to the art of metalworking,

tion with the name Volaterrae. And

in particular, iron, which was mined

so, even if only as a precaution, Lord

on the Elba Island and transport-

Larth was given his iron kopis, forged

ed by sea to Populonia, along the

by skillful hands. The metal required

Gulf of Baratti, where it was forged.

a temperature of 1,250 degrees to

In order to have a proper kopis, a

fuse in coal and wood-heated stone

heavy knife with a forward-curving

ovens. “The temperature must be

and sharp blade capable of deliver-

kept constant- Master Petruis said-

ing powerful blows, Larth knocked

in order to achieve the desired re-

at the door of a famous craftsman

sult”. In this case, the Etruscans’

from Arezzo, particularly good at

skills made the difference. Just like

working iron, Master Petruis. The ar-

in the field of Etruscan “design”.

tisan, however, was quite surprised

Spare-styled Etruscan artefacts al-

Left page: a piece of Etruscan pottery, Guarnacci Museum, Volterra 43

DESIGN

The Etruscans brilliantly assimilated the manufacturing traditions and customs of other people, adapting them to their own lifestyle and vision of the world

ways took on a patina of charm and

nique. Larth encouraged his crafts-

mystery. The Lord of Volterra strove

men to do what they were best at

to transform that lively town sur-

doing: the red-figured technique,

rounded by mighty boundary walls

inspired by Hellenic art. Amphoras,

into a busy workshop. The local mas-

craters, cups and plates were such

ter potters gave their best to create

sophisticated objects that they be-

buccheri, black ceramic vases for ev-

came the envy of the whole world.

eryday use. The Etruscan buccheri’s

The artefacts were decorated with

lustrous, glossy black surface was

mythological

achieved by using a very fine clay

scenes and figures of athletes.

mixture which was fired in special

Volterra’s red-figured pottery facto-

ovens. One day, Larth was informed

ry got the better of the Chiusi work-

that a competition would be held

shop. The local craftsmen presented

in the lands of Etruria for the most

Larth with a Kylix, a red-figured At-

beautiful artistic pottery creation.

tic-style wine-drinking cup decorat-

Attic-inspired ceramics with black

ed with scenes from the Iliou Persis,

figures, less geometric and more

an ancient lost epic poem which told

decorative or red-figured ceramics

the history of the Trojan War. It was

commissioned by aristocrats: the

the work considered to be the most

variants of mixtures, shapes and col-

beautiful by a jury of local aristocrats,

ors depended upon the period and

out of about one hundred artefacts.

place of production and upon the

Style after style, Etruscan art would

craftsman and his personal tech-

go on for seven centuries.

subjects, wedding

Above, from left: Bucchero masterworks, the typical Etruscan ceramics made, according to some, by mixing clay and powdered coal, Guarnacci Museum, Volterra Left page: a duck-shaped Askòs, a small vase containing oil for lamps, MAEC Cortona 45

ART

A sphinx in “fetida” stone, mid-6th century B.C., National Archeological Museum of Chiusi 46

ART A N D ARCHITECT U R E SKILLFUL SCULPTORS AND MAKERS OF FLUID CITIES

ART

M AST E RS OF FIGU RAT I V E A RT

Refined sculptors who worked iron by using the lost-wax casting technique

Aulus Metellus was a good and just

their power ran in Tuscany. After all,

man if his fellow citizens paid out of

the Etruscans well expressed the Tus-

their own pocket to have a life-size

cans’ proud nature and commercial

bronze statue sculpted as a tribute

spirit. The two bronze statues testify

to him. Aulus Metellus was an orator,

to the Etruscans’ sculptural skills, as

and that is how he is portrayed, with a

they knew how to work iron using

serious expression on his face and his

the lost-wax casting technique. And

right hand stretched out toward the

the Arringatore, in particular, shows

crowd he is addressing. Not in an au-

how much the Etruscan civilization,

thoritative pose, but rather with the

in the late 2nd century, had been ab-

self-confidence that distinguishes

sorbed into the Roman society. Aulus

those who always succeed in convinc-

wears a Roman toga and boots, but

ing the audience. The bronze statue

the statue features an inscription

of Aulus Metellus, better known as

in the Etruscan language. The story

the L’Arringatore, was stolen from

of the Chimera is slightly different.

Lake Trasimeno by Cosimo I and

Roughly restored in the 18th centu-

brought to Florence, where today it

ry, the statue was originally part of

can be seen at the city’s National Ar-

a larger sculptural group represent-

cheological Museum, along with the

ing a fight between the Chimera- a

Chimera of Arezzo, found in 1555 by

monstrous creature with a lion’s head

workers building the city’s boundary

and body, the head of a goat arising

walls. The Arringatore (with whom

from its back and a tail ending with

Cosimo identified) and the Chimera

a snake’s head- and Bellerophon, the

(which the Grand Duke saw as a sym-

hero who killed the monster while

bol of his power) perfectly describe

riding on Pegasus, his winged horse.

the relaunching of the Etruscan civili-

Bellerophon

zation by the Medicis, who were anx-

and the Chimera his enemies. In the

ious to prove how deep the roots of

restored statue, the snake bites the

represented

Cosimo

ART

The Etruscans were known for their beautiful bronze sculptures, made by using special methods, such as the lost-wax casting technique, which is still used in Tuscany

dying goat’s horns instead of attack-

of interest for marble statues, are con-

ing Pegasus. The Florentine museum

sistent with a mobile civilization. Fur-

showcases also some sarcophagi and

thermore, the Etruscans, according to

many cinerary urns. One of the most

the archeological finds discovered so

beautiful pieces is the terracotta sar-

far, seemed also very little interested

cophagus of Larthia Seianthi, por-

in life-size sculptures, having a prefer-

traying a young aristocratic woman

ence, at least until the Hellenistic age,

from Chiusi, lying on top of the cof-

for small-sized statues. The Etruscans’

fin. Sarcophagi, like most Etruscan

slight, stele-like figures, which remind

statues, were richly painted and par-

us of the modern artwork by Giacom-

ticularly expressive. The distinguish-

etti, have always been so fascinat-

ing feature of all Etruscan sculpture

ing. One of them, Ombra della Sera,

is the ability in combining the formal

is kept at the Museum of Volterra.

balance of classical Hellenic art and

This 50 cm-long statuette is one of

other artistic expressions, whether

the most mysterious works of art of

rupestrian or from Northern Europe,

the whole Etruscan heritage. While

which tells us how flexible the Etrus-

the body is very elongated, in a nearly

can culture was. The result of travel-

post-modern style, the head is in nor-

ling the world as merchants. And it

mal proportions. The statue was called

tells us much more. The Etruscans’

Ombra della Sera by D’Annunzio, for

predilection for terracotta, which they

it reminded him of the long evening

transformed into serial statues by cre-

shadows. And Giacometti must have

ating models and, instead, their lack

been incredibly inspired by it.

Above left: detail of the wall paintings of the Tomb of the Quadriga Infernale, Archeological Museum of Sarteano. Above right: The Chimera, bronze, 4th century B.C., Archeological Museum of Florence. Left page: Head of Young Man, bronze, 4th century B.C., Archeological Museum of Florence 51

ART

A polychrome cinerary urn, National Archeological Museum of Chiusi 52

ART

ARCHITECTURE

FLUID C IT I ES

The Etruscans were clever town planners. But nothing survived of their domestic architecture, for they used non-durable materials such as wood and terracotta Larth, the flute player, had grown

with frescoed walls. That is the main

old and tired and his life was slowly

reason why there are very little re-

steering towards Aita (the under-

mains of Etruscan temples. How-

world). He had spent his life play-

ever, the columns, evenly spaced

ing the double flute, at the sports

out from each other, were made

competitions held in the hills of Fie-

of stone with a smooth, non-fluted

sole, and he had often climbed up

surface. A more modern style com-

to the temple to assist the harus-

pared with Greek temples. The cap-

pices who practiced divination by

ital was similar to the Doric-style,

inspecting the entrails of animals.

but it was called Tuscanico. The

But by now, Larth could only make

pitched roof with wooden beams

it as far as the first step, for the tem-

was usually covered with terracotta

ple was too high up. The Etruscans,

tiles decorated with brightly-col-

in fact, built their places of cult on

ored apotropaic images and gor-

high ground or embankments of

gons. Larth used to sit on the first

earth accessed by means of steep

step, and after a quick glance at

stairs (Fiesole was partially reused

the temple where propitiatory rites

by the Romans).

dedicated to the three major Gods

Etruscan temples were designed to

Tinia,

resemble Greek temples, but in a

Juno and Minerva) were performed,

simpler style. They were built at the

he enjoyed the view of the sunset

intersection of the town’s two main

which highlighted or softened the

roads, the cardo and decumanus,

colorful houses in Fiesole. Whether

which would be later used by the

geometric-patterned or depicting

Romans too. And, like all Etruscan

domestic or mythological stories,

buildings, only the foundations

frescoes were an integral part of

were made of stone, while the rest

the Etruscans’ everyday life. Fires

was built of wood and baked clay

often broke out in the towns so rich

Uni and Menrva (Jupiter,

Only the temples’ foundations were made of stone, while the rest of the building was built of wood. Domestic architecture reached its peak in the 4th century B.C., with the roofs made of tiles and pantiles, much like those seen today in Tuscany 55

ARCHITECTURE

T H E ET RUSCANS BUILT T E M PLES AND HOUSES BY US ING LOW E NVIRONMENTAL-IMPACT MAT E RIALS, SUC H AS WOOD A ND BA KED C LAY in wood and brickwork. Larth was

There were several kinds of tombs.

very sorry about this. The only way

The Hypogea tombs were built

to protect oneself from the fire was

underground and were accessed

to gather near the boundary walls,

by means of a staircase that led

which were erected by using big

to a vestibule followed by the se-

squared dry-stones, without ce-

pulchral room filled with benches,

ment (Fiesole, Volterra), or take to

house furniture and decorated with

the necropolis. As they strongly be-

frescoes. The Tumulus and Tholos

lieved in the afterlife, the Etruscans

tombs were, instead, partially un-

built cities for the deceased, which

derground and featured a circular

were designed to last and, in fact,

or rectangular layout. They were

they made it all the way to us. We

usually located behind an artifi-

are now able to have a clear idea of

cial hillock. Today, in Tuscany, such

what Etruscan buildings were like

tombs can still be seen in Populo-

by looking at the necropolises. Be-

nia, Roselle, Volterra, at the Mon-

cause, apart from the arch- which

tagnola in Sesto Fiorentino. They

is believed to have been invented

were accessed through a dromos,

by the Etruscans (although it was

a long corridor leading to a rectan-

more likely imported from the Far

gular room containing another two

East) in Volterra and Perugia, the

rooms. The dome was supported by

two best examples-, we can picture

a central pillar. The Aedicula tombs

Etruscan buildings by looking at

were simpler and most of them

the tombs. Never isolated, always

were found nearly intact in Populo-

gathered in the necropolis, verita-

nia. They resembled real rectangu-

ble cities with squares and streets.

lar-shaped homes with an accentu-

Each tomb reflected the ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

ated roof with two sloping sides. All

house and was designed to be en-

tombs were richly frescoed, such as

larged over time.

the Flabelli Tomb in Populonia.

ART

Panoramic view of Sorano, in the Maremma area 57

FOOD

Two menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s portraits from the paintings of the Tomb of the Quadriga Infernale in Sarteano. The Tomb was cut deep into the travertine rock and is accessed by means of a long dromos, an open-air corridor, dug into the ground or rock, leading to the entrance to the tombs 58

FO OD A N D P RODUCTS

LONG-LASTING BANQUETS AND PASSION FOR GOOD FOOD

FOOD

FAMILY BANQUETS

The abundance of the countryside on the table: olive oil, grapes and cereals, the foods grown by the Etruscans The warm late-summer afternoon

the family’s and Etruria’s customs

was fading to silver, when from the

and traditions. Tanaquil, in fact, was

atrium of the house set among the

in the kitchen watching over the

olive trees, the clear voice of a man

handmaids, who were piling up the

accompanied by the cheerful bark-

plates that would be set on the ta-

ing of two large dogs was heard

bles facing the triclinium, accompa-

crying out: “Larthia! Ramtha! Are

nied by the various wines produced

you ready? Uncle Turms is coming,

on her husband’s farm. Her Eastern

with Velia! The first servant is al-

Celtic mother had raised her to be

ready here!”

frugal with food, but in the fertile

The two young girls were ready to

lands surrounding Curtun (Corto-

greet the most distinguished of

na), the habit of two meals a day

the guests attending the banquet

was the norm and neither her hus-

for which preparations had been

band Lars Marcna nor his brother

in full swing for days. They ran to-

Turms were willing to renounce the

wards their father dressed in the

family gathering traditions. Larthia

traditional outfit of Etruscan wom-

approached her mother twitching

en- a bright bodice and a long

her delicate nose and pointing at

and dark-colored tunic cinched at

a big piece of meat: “It’s venison,

the waist and hips- and then they

isn’t it? This time, I might have the

ran to help their mother, who was

chance to get my share before it’s

supervising the final touches to

all gone…? Oh! There’s also a pork

the banquet where she would be

leg cured with salt and spices! It

seated next to her husband: her

comes from Mutna! Mother! May

brother-in-law’s return from Mag-

I taste it’!” In the meantime, the

na Graecia, after ten years, was

sweet smell rising from the pots

worth celebrating with a sumptu-

in which the chickpea gruel and

ous dinner party reminding him of

emmer wheat and barley gruel

Left page, from top clockwise: detail of a find from the National Archeological Museum of Chiusi, amphoras from the Cathedral Museum of Chiusi and one of the sarcophagi of Volterra’s Guarnacci Museum 61

FOOD

M E NUS INC LUDED H EARTY MEAT COURSES, I N PA RTICULAR , GAME M EAT, AND LEGUM ES, CH E ES E AND FRUIT were cooking filled the room, while

heritage, along with olive oil and

the pea and lentil soup was al-

wheat. Cereals were grown in the

most ready. Cinnamon, black pep-

whole of Etruria, in regular plots,

per, cumin and myrtle tempted

which gained the region the title of

Ramtha with their alluring aroma

“Etruscan granary”, as it was called

exuding from the tiny bucchero

by Titus Livius, and the bakers of

amphoras, usually tightly closed to

the cities known today as Chiusi,

prevent the fragrance from evapo-

Arezzo and Pisa prepared a popu-

rating quickly. For such an import-

lar type of bread. The production of

ant occasion, the menu included

wine developed into a major “busi-

boiled mutton and goat’s meat,

ness” starting from the 7th century

in addition to vegetables- onions,

B.C., to the point that it was export-

garlic, carrots, peas, white lupins

ed throughout the whole Mediter-

and savoy cabbage- which were

ranean area- from Sicily to France

usually the family’s staple food In-

and Spain. Of course, wine in those

cluding the precious and versatile

days was very thick, intensely alco-

fava beans, which were normally

holic and aromatic and mixed with

eaten both raw and dried.

the right amount of water and hon-

Tanaquil was sorry that the sea was

ey, as attested in the Greek and Lat-

too far away to be able to serve fish,

in sources and shown by the many

which her brother-in-law had grown

amphora finds, in addition to the

use to eating along the Campania

pottery decorated with harvesting

Coast, but eggs as an entrée and

scenes. As for olive oil, it was im-

hens ( much more delicious than

ported from Greece throughout

hedgehogs and dormice) as well as

the 7th century B.C until, according

ducks and little birds would have

to tradition, the fifth king of Rome,

been enthusiastically welcomed by

Tarquinius Priscus (whose father

the guests, along with the bay lau-

was Greek, from Corinth) intro-

rel-scented game meat. The meal

duced the practice of olive oil-mak-

would be crowned with fruit and

ing according to the Magna Graecia

cakes made from cheese, hon-

system, and completed the golden

ey and eggs, and washed down

landscape design of the future Tus-

with wine, the farm’s most valuable

can countryside….

FOOD

A flock of sheep in the countryside between Sorano and Sovana 63

Project by

ÂŠ 2018 Toscana Promozione Turistica Publishing initiative implemented under the interregional project In-Etruria photos

Alessandro Moggi editors

Rossella Battista, Teresa Favi, Maria Lardara, Mila Montagni cover

Sphinx, National Archeological Museum of Chiusi photo Alessandro Moggi graphics

Martina Alessi, Chiara Bini photo contributors

Lorenzo Cotrozzi (p. 4, 9) Fernando Guerra (p. 12) Pasquale Paradiso (p. 6) translations

Tessa Conticelli printed by Baroni & Gori - Prato