(EN) Gwangju News December 2014 #154

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# 154/ December 2014

Every Orphan:

Choi Sunjin and Calen Cygan’s Ambitious Christmas Mission

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Do you want to experience Korea? Then this program is for you! Experience Korean culture at Hyanggyo, a traditional Confucian school. Experience Programs (2 hours, at least 10 people)

Basic Programs (2 Hours) - Experience wearing Hanbok (Traditional Costumes) - Learn the etiquette of hand gestures, greetings, and bowing - Drink green tea - Explore Hyanggyo and watch movies Optional Programs (additional cost) - Experience a Korean traditional wedding ceremony - Experience a coming of age celebration - Watch a performance of Korean classical music and Fan Dance - Make kimchi, traditional confections, and rice cake. - Play traditional Korean games such as Tuho, Yut, etc 7-8, 95 Angil, Jungan-ro, Nam-gu, Gwangju 503-818, South Korea E-mail: swk2013@daum.net Website: www.swk2013.com Tel: 062-431-6501

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Cover Photo: Calen Cygan (right) and Choi Sunjin (left) for the Adopt-A-Child at Christmas program Photograph by Joe Wabe

Gwangju & South Jeolla International Magazine

December 2014 #154 Publication Date: November 24, 2014 Publisher: Professor Shin Gyonggu

GWANGJU NEWS PRINT Editor-in-Chief: Professor Robert Grotjohn Editor: Adam Volle Senior Coordinator: Kim Minsu Coordinator and Layout Editor: Karina Prananto Photo Editor: Joe Wabe Chief Proofreader: Bradley Weiss Copy Editors: Kate Blessing, Henry Gerlits, Kate Jarocki, Joey Nunez, Danielle Mitchell, Karly Pierre, Benjamin Young, Jon Ozelton Proofreaders: Lianne Bronzo, Paul Foskey, Don Gariepy, Jessica Keralis, Jannies Le, Carrie Levinson, Joey Nunez, Gabrielle Nygaard, Stephen Redeker, Pete Schandall, Teri Venable, Gilda Wilson Creative Consultant: Warren Parsons Researchers: GIC Foreign Support Team: Lee Jeonghwa, Kim Hyunyoung, Han Jeongbong, Han Juyeon, Yong Yurim

GWANGJU NEWS ONLINE Editor: Ana Traynin Online Editorial Assistants: Mathew Jacob, Amanda Miller, Jacqui Page, Adriano Salamone Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com E-mail: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr Registration No.: 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Address: Gwangju International Center 1-2 Fl., 5, Jungang-ro 196 beon-gil (Geumnam-ro 3 Ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 501-023, South Korea Phone: +82-62-226-2733~4 Fax: +82-62-226-2731 Website: www.gic.or.kr Email: gic@gic.or.kr Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise - without the written consent of the publisher.

Meet Our Contributors GIC Foreign Support Team Volunteers Standing L-R: Han Juyeon, Han Jeongbong, Yong Yurim Sitting L-R: Lee Jeonghwa, Kim Hyunyoung We are glad to introduce ourselves as the new volunteers for the GIC Foreigner Counseling team and researchers for Gwangju News. From our first day as GIC volunteers, we all dreamed of being on this team and participating with Gwangju News because it has helped many foreigners and citizens in Gwangju. Thankfully we made it, and we will serve on the team until next March. Since joining the team, we have been working to make Gwangju News better. In every meeting, we discuss what we do and how to efficiently help our readers. We promise to put all of our passion and effort in contributing more practical and useful articles. We can also help GIC members with translations between Korean and English. Let us help you!

CORRECTIONS for Gwangju News November 2014 On page 30, the photographer is Christina RileyHedinger. On page 37, the correct author’s name is Richard Wilhite. We apologize for the errors.

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.

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CONTENTS 6 9 12 14 15

FEATURES Every Orphan: One Expat Org’s Amazing Christmas Mission Little Buddhas The GPP Offers “Proof” Korea’s Fighting Spirit Sewol Ferry Disaster Aftermath

16 20 22 24 26 27

LOCAL Gwangju Gwangju Gwangju Gwangju Gwangju Gwangju

28 30 32

PLACES TO SEE Departing Gwangju: India: Dreams to Memories Korea in the World: Poland My Korea: The 5.18 Memorials

34 36

PHOTOGRAPHY Photo Essay: Baekyang Temple Photo of the Month: Fall

37 38 40

CULTURE Standing Up to Destiny: Korean-American Poet Ed Bok Lee Korean Poetry by Lee Yong-ak Gwangju Writes: Remember the Words: A Short Story

42 43 44

GENERAL BIRDS Korea: Can We Connect? Health: HIV in Korea: A Tangled Mess of Law, Stigma, and Bad Public Health KOTESOL: Tips & Techniques for Communicating Instructions

46 48 49

GIC GIC Culture Tour: Jangheung Spa Experience GIC Talk Preview: Knowing Gwangju Through the May 18th Uprising GIC Talk December Schedule

50 52 55

INFO National Pension Service: Social Security Agreement for the U.K., Dutch and Spanish Nationals Upcoming Events Community Board

Talks: “What do you think about people from other countries?” City Hall News Works: Photography As Art and Life Plays: Ingress, The Fight to Control Gwangju Cooks: Salad with Fried Shrimp Noodles Eats: Diem Hem Quan

gwangjunewsgic.com

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GwangjuNews

@GwangjuNewsGIC

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[COVER STORY]

Every Orphan: One Expat Org’s Amazing Christmas Mission Words by Blake Bouchard Photos by Joe Wabe and Relja Kojic

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onversations about orphans tend to evoke images of an “Oliver Twist”-like scenario, complete with raggedy figures roaming the streets. Thankfully, this is not the case for the orphans of Gwangju. Indeed, the residents of Gwangju’s nine institutions have roofs over their heads, food in their bellies and access to education. However, from there the rosy picture turns a rather ugly shade of gray, as the reality of Korean children in care is arguably more complicated and less promising than in many other developed nations. Currently, there are over 18,000 children in institutions, primarily orphanages, all over Korea. They end up in these institutions for a variety of reasons, but the majority are not “true” orphans, i.e. children without living parents. Last year, just over 6,000 children entered institutions in Korea, 200 of them in Gwangju. Based on numbers gathered by Courtney Snyder, just over 2,200 of these children entered the system as a result of divorce. Almost 2,000 were taken to institutions by parents who did not have the financial wherewithal to support them. Over 1,500 were born to unwed parents and nearly 300 were abandoned. Strong stigma against unwed parents leads most single mothers to give up their children, often due to family pressure. Coupled with the reality that divorced parents often find it impossible to remarry with children from a previous marriage, and the fact that institutions will take children that cannot be financially supported by their parents, it quickly becomes apparent why these institutions receive so many children each year. Sadly, the chance of these kids finding adoptive homes is not only low but dropping. The Special Adoption Law has recently restricted the number of international adoptions in order to encourage domestic adoption. However, continued emphasis on bloodlines and traditional stigma against adoption has held domestic adoption numbers down. Combined with the reduced number of allowable international adoptions, these social barriers have resulted in a lower cumulative number of children finding permanent homes. Of more than

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6,000 children who entered the national system last year, less than a quarter will be adopted. Such daunting odds make it that much more important that these children be shown love and support while living in these institutions. Enter: Adopt a Child for Christmas (ACC). The program is the brainchild of Al Barnum, who began it to benefit Sungbin Orphanage in 2010. That first year, over 200 gifts were collected for 50 girls. The program expanded each year, to the point that 450 gifts were distributed in 2013. As the 2013 organizer Jordan VanHartingsveldt said at a recent GIC talk, “people trust the program,” and as the word has spread, support has grown. This year ACC is co-organized by Calen Cygan and Choi Sunjin. During an interview with

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3 1, 2 and 3: AAC volunteers deliver presents in Adopt-a-Child for Christmas in 2013

Gwangju News, Cygan explained that she first got involved by sponsoring presents for two girls, and has been involved as a volunteer ever since. Although she was not planning on becoming a primary organizer, Cygan was happy to step into the breach when previous organizers were no longer able to carry the program forward. Cygan was drawn to the program because, she said, “I love to see the members of our community coming together and having fun while simultaneously raising money for something wonderful.”

ACC’s greatest challenge for this year’s event is the lower number of volunteers. Choi explained that many Koreans are interested in the program, but due to the high incidence of fraud and corruption in unregistered organizations, they are reluctant to get involved. With long-term stability in mind, Choi plans to register the ACC with the government as a nongovernment organization (NGO). She hopes that “with a formalized, ongoing group in Gwangju, people will be comfortable joining — not only foreigners but many more Koreans!”

The ACC’s goal for this year is to supply presents to 700 orphans in ten orphanages across Gwangju. This ambitious goal will see every child in every orphanage in Gwangju receive a gift, with the exception of infants and graduates. In an effort to reach 700 gifts, the organisers have opted to streamline the program by shifting to a cash-only drive, rather than having donors purchase gifts directly. Cygan hopes that ACC will ultimately sponsor every child, including infants and graduates.

However, that solution will not be implemented this year, so readers interested in getting should consider sponsoring a child, volunteering their time wrapping presents or playing the part of Santa. ACC has a Facebook page with more information. As Cygan notes, “it’s completely priceless to see the look of happiness on these children’s faces when they get a new coat or a hat and gloves.”

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To help, email accgwangju@gmail.com.

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Little Buddhas: The Child Monks of Haein Temple Words by Kathryn Blessing Photos by Joe Wabe Special Thanks to Kim Youngim

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he holiday season tends to conjure up thoughts of home and comfort for those who celebrate. These thoughts manifest in different ways for everyone, but family is a common theme. The child monks of Haein Temple in Jangseong are an unusual family. For a variety of reasons, the parents of these children have given them to the head monk at Haein Temple for safekeeping. Though predominantly male, there are three girls living amongst the group of 20. The head monk, Venerable Muhak, is their sole caregiver, and receives no money from the government for his work, because he has adopted these children as his own. He is their father as well as their mother, and the children are each other’s brothers and sisters. In short, the temple is not an orphanage; it is a home. The young monks range in age from 3 to 18. They attend a normal public school nearby and live together on the temple grounds. In winter, they stay warm by sleeping in the temple, but they also have a two-story dormitory where they eat and study. Together they wake up every morning before 5 a.m. to meditate and read teachings from the Diamond Sutra. They also are visited once a month by Kim Young-im, founder of the Korean Organization of Natural Approach (KONA) Storybook Center in Gwangju. She brings with her a small team of volunteers who help the monks improve their English skills as part of the Extensive Reading (ER) program. When they are old enough, the monks may continue with their education by going to university or seeking employment at a secular job. When Kim first visited the temple 10 years ago, the head monk and children were living in a tent. Through generous donations and other forms of compassion, the facilities have since expanded dramatically, so that the child monks live a life with many similarities to their public school peers. They play with each other during free time, which may entail playing with a basketball or a “dog pile� of boys being boys. The older kids generally keep to themselves, but they still look after and care for their younger siblings. The young children cry, the adolescents make trouble and the older ones brood; they are a very large but very normal family. This time of year offers a period of reflection, so the temple gives thanks to the people who have found their way into their lives and for everything they have received. Family, no matter its shape, size, make-up or functionality, is the most beautiful gift

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we have been given. While Haein Temple may have a non-traditional family arrangement, they offer each other the love and support we each receive from our own. Donations of money or food can be sent to the monk directly at Nonghyup Bank (농협), account number: 645025-51-013693 or Post Office (우체 국), bank account number: 502245-01-000216, bank account holder Haeinsa (해인사). Clothes, especially warm socks, gloves, mittens and hats, can be taken by Kim when she visits the temple. Contact her at konacenter@gmail.com. For more volunteering opportunities with KONA, please refer to the Community Board on page 55.

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The GPP Offers “Proof” Words by Ali Saleh Photos by Relja Kojic

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he Gwangju Performance Project (GPP) will be putting on the play “Proof” by David Auburn from December 6, 7 and 13. The story follows the daughter of a recently deceased mathematician who must prove authorship of a groundbreaking mathematical proof in her father’s papers, while dealing with the shadow of his genius and mental illness. The Pulitzer Prize-winning play has been made into a film, following a line of Auburn’s works that deal with themes of family and psychological dilemmas. It’s a subject matter that director Tori Brown said “connects with people on many levels.”

question the connections between mental health and genius. The relationships we have with other people and also issues within families. People who suffer from mental illness are often oppressed within societies. Though it’s getting better, people still feel shameful about it.” Brown’s concern is not without footing, given the recent protests against South Korea’s National Police Agency and their screening restrictions on individuals with a history of mental illness. According to Korea Times editor Lee Chang-sup, “Discriminating against applicants with a history of mental illness would worsen the stigma that people with even minor mental disorders face … And discourage them from getting medical treatment.”

According to Brown, “It entices the audience to

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Brown also said she had comedy legend Robin Williams in mind while putting the play together. Williams committed suicide this year. Although mental illness is a familiar motif in Auburn’s work, Brown hopes the final product will be “a very different production to anything anyone will expect… I really want the audience to experience something different. I am inspired by a lot of ideas as we go along, as the play evolves, grows and develops; a lot of amazing ideas come to me at 3 a.m. when I didn’t sleep!” Brown had at least a couple of options for a script to follow but decided to stick with the original. “We are using the original script, but the play will not be what anyone is expecting,” Brown said, citing influences from experimental practitioners Grotovski and Lecoq.

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New surprises mean new challenges, though. For example, Brown said, “There is going to be a minimal set, so the audience isn’t going to see a porch which is described in the script. Instead we have a representation of that, so for me a challenge is making sure that all the actors’ work is complete to make the world real.” The actors themselves, Brown mentioned, range from individuals with a relatively extensive theatre background to first-timers onstage. Although there are difficulties involved in catering to the different experience levels of each actor, GPP president Anna Volle thinks this variety is one of the better things about doing theatre in Korea. “The most amazing thing about making theatre happen in Korea is that the field is wide open,” Volle said. “Back in North America, getting involved with theatre can be extremely competitive and difficult... Here, anything is possible.” Volle emphasized the GPP’s willingness to work with newcomers. The group holds its own own workshops for almost every aspect of theater. “Our group encourages anyone to join our workshops, auditions, choir and future endeavors. For any and all of our events, no experience or skill is required, and everyone is welcome.” The GPP is also looking to reach out to the Korean community. “We’ve started subtitling our full-length plays to make them more accessible to the Korean

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“Proof” Director Victoria Brown “Proof” actress Anissa Ghali “Proof” actor Jamie Oliver Jones

audience. We also have a new GPP Player, Jackie Choi, who is our Korean liaison.” “Proof” will have a total of three viewings divided between two Saturdays, Dec. 6 and 13, as well as a Sunday afternoon showing on the 7th. It will be playing at the Gwangju Art Hall, near the downtown Megabox movie theater. For more information, check out their website at www.gwangjutheatre.com or email them at gwangjuplayers@gmail.com.

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Korea’s Fighting Spirit Words and photo by Ana Traynin

Sangju, N orth Gyeo ngsa

ng

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hen I came to Korea in February 2012 to teach English, I was embarrassingly unfamiliar with Korea’s rich history and the struggles and triumphs that have made it what it is today. I soon learned that for such a small country, Korea has an incredible fighting spirit. As a high school English teacher, I first settled in rural Gangwon Province. The town where I first lived, Sabok, was originally Korea’s center of coal production. The town rose up against job insecurity and oppression in April 1980, a month before the Gwangju Uprising made history. When I visited the town museum, I met a young artist who illustrates through paintings the changes his hometown has undergone, from being coal-based to featuring the only casino open to Koreans. I began to realize that the more I learned about what was right in front of me, the more there was to unearth about my adopted home. Since I already had a privileged look into the education system as a teacher, I decided that more deeply investigating food production was a wise next step in learning about Korean culture. I began to spend many of my weekends volunteering on farms through the website World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF). I learned that despite the onslaught of industrialized farming practices, there were still many people committed to environmentally conscious food production. Despite this on-the-ground experience, it would take me a full two years to begin to grasp the scope of Korean farmers’ struggles, and how my home country’s free trade policies are deeply destructive to their survival. Continuing my journey of discovery, I visited wellknown sites of struggle like Jeju Island’s anti-naval base community and rural Miryang’s fight against nuclear energy transmission towers — and of course when I relocated to South Jeolla Province, I struck gold. I came to reside in Gwangju, Korea’s human rights capital.

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Still, I felt that something was missing. Though gradually learning the language, I was still struggling to find information about Korean social issues in English. I hit the jackpot again when I found the Englishlanguage blog of the International Strategy Center called Solidarity Stories (isckoreamedia.wordpress. com). This group is dedicated to connecting Korean struggles with those around the world. By joining the group and writing for the blog, I have been able to go deeper into modern Korean history and meet the people who are still making it happen. As a bonus, the writing requirement gives an outlet for reflection. Sometimes, when Koreans hear about my engagement in the country’s social issues, they tell me that I care more about it than most Koreans. It could be that all over the world, citizens are made complacent to the problems and struggles going on around them. We are laden with debt, we are dependent on the things that we own and we are increasingly isolated from our communities. Still, I have met people in this country who believe that democracy means more than material wealth. Through marches, candlelight vigils, activist community sites, art, food cooperatives, natural living and much more, these Koreans of all ages are continually moving forward to build a better society. Korea gave me a job and a place to call home for at least a few years. As a foreigner with native Englishspeaking privilege and an interest in social movements, I feel that the best way I can give back is by spreading the word. Go behind the scenes of the smartphones, the neon lights, the studying for tests and the image consciousness, and meet the people who have shaped Korea. Meet the farmers, factory workers, feminists, Buddhist monks, Christian labor activists and all the extraordinary people who are so often labeled ordinary. As a teacher, community member and writer, I can share what I have learned with others. I am always learning. Let us learn together.

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Sewol Ferry Disaster Aftermath Words by Kim Singsing Translated by Park Eunyoung and Kim Dong-hun

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ne more body was recovered on October 29, 2014, which was later identified to be Hwang Ji-hyun, a student from Danwon High School. She was found on her birthday. There are still nine bodies to be found. However, the government has decided to end the maritime search operation and is now considering how to salvage the sunken Sewol ferry. The Gwangju Citizen Sangju group, which has committed to mourning the loss of the Sewol Ferry disaster for three years, embarked on a 1,000-day-long pilgrimage around Gwangju on November 15, with plans to end on August 11, 2017. The pilgrimage was started under the slogan “Building 100 Safe Towns in Gwangju” and “Seeking the Truth of the Sewol Ferry Disaster for the Safer Society in the Future” in hopes of encouraging local citizens and organizations to participate in the cause. The special Sewol Bill, aimed at addressing issues surrounding the Sewol Ferry disaster, was issued at the Plenary Session of the National Assembly on November 7. According to the Sewol Bill, the Special Investigation Committee will investigate the disaster for up to 18 months. If necessary, an accompanying warrant will be issued to witnesses. Bereaved families noted that the bill was not enough, but they have accepted it in the hopes of finding out the truth about the disaster.

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Marking November 1 as the 200th day since the disaster, the Gwangju Citizen Sangju group and the Committee of Bereaved Families of the Sewol Ferry Disaster held a cultural event under the theme “Ruminating on the Memory of Sewol Ferry Disaster” at the Paengmok Harbor on Jindo. Residents of Gwangju traveled to the event on six buses. In total, roughly 500 people attended the event.

residents in Gwangju raised 27 million won to fund the event and the yellow ribbon-shaped sculpture.

In remembrance of the disaster, a five-meter high yellow ribbon-shaped sculpture was placed at the Paengmok Harbor during the festival. A pole was also erected to symbolically safeguard the truth, along with a memorial chair and a dinner table. The Gwangsan Nanum Culture Foundation and the local

The captain of the Sewol ferry was sentenced to 36 years at a public trial, held at the Gwangju District Court on November 11, 2014. The first mate, second mate and chief engineer were each sentenced to 1520 years in prison. Another 11 crew members were sentenced to serve 5 to 10 years in prison.

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2 1,2 2. Gwangju Citizen Sangju group on a 1,000-day pilgrimage to seek the truth of the Sewol Ferry disaster and to promote a safer society.

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[Gwangju Talks] Each month, Gwangju News surveys a particular demographic of Gwangju’s residents for their perspective on a topic of interest. What topics would you like to see discussed, and from what viewpoint? Email your requests to gwangjunews@gic.or.kr.

“What do you think about people from other countries?” Compiled by Lee Jeonghwa, Kim Hyunyoung, Han Jeongbong, Han Juyeon, and Yong Yurim Photo by Lee Jeonghwa

PEOPLE FROM CANADA 5th grade students in Mudeung Elementary School Kim Eunwoo: I can easily imagine people who are tall, have blonde hair and blue eyes. Park Eun-chae: They look like they are living in an atmosphere of freedom. Park Ga-hee: They have more tolerance than Koreans. Kim Do-hyo: They can handle a gun, it’s awesome! They’re very brave! If a Canadian joined your class, how would you feel? Kim Hoyun: I would be happy because it’s a good opportunity to practice my abilities to speak English. Jeong Yujeong: I would feel awkward because I can’t speak English very well, so we wouldn’t be able to communicate with each other. Choi Hanul: It would be cool. I would ask many questions about Canada’s culture and festivals.

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Yoo Ho-hyun: I would appreciate having foreign friends, because I can introduce them to Korean culture and make them think better about our culture. Jeong Jeong-gwan: They look different, but, we are all humans, so I would treat them equally. If I don’t treat them as human, it would surely make them feel stressed in their situation.

PEOPLE FROM THE PHILIPPINES Go Siwoo, 11-years-old

I moved to the Philippines with my family a few years ago. Back then, we went along with a guide so I did not directly talk to the locals, but I observed Filipinos. All the places that I could see were markets and the streets were crowded. Although the people did not seem poor, most of them looked thin.

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PEOPLE FROM CHINA Yong Seung-hyun, 16-years-old

At first, a gap between the rich and the poor is seriously hard to understand. However, each of the poor has their own job and they are not afraid of others’ perceptions of their jobs, even though it might be a humble occupation. Also, if studying does not fit in their aptitudes, they find other strengths immediately. Perhaps I think they should find various sorts of jobs, because there are more than a billion people in their nation. On the whole, it appears that the people are stepping towards building relationships with other developed countries, but it is only for the upper classes, and not for the lower classes. I am really wondering if the lives of China’s poor is the same as in other developed countries.

PEOPLE FROM THE U.S.A. Han Minwoo, 11-years-old It seems free there. When I think about the U.S.A., I think of freedom at the same time. I saw a video from the U.S.A. in English class and there were many different kinds of students who had a discussion in class freely. That is why I think the U.S.A. seems free. Also they seem like they are all outgoing people, because they seem as if they do not care about talking with unknown people. It also seems like there is more variety in the U.S.A. My older sister gave me chocolate from the U.S. and there were a lot of different types. I also think their culture is more varied and that there are a lot of cultural things to do, such as festivals. Emerson Lee, 14-years-old I was born in America, and I lived there for the first 10 years of my life. Before my family moved to Korea, we lived in Washington, D.C. People from all over the world live in D.C. In my school district, students came from 72 different cultural backgrounds. So I am used to being around people who are different from me, including Africans. My father also had many friends with different races, and his best friend from high school is black. I think people who are black or who are from Africa are just the same as everyone else. People are similar, no matter where they come from in the world, so everyone should just treat each other with kindness.

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www.holidayinngwangju.com

Welcome to December!

With Christmas day falling on a Thursday this year, we have decided to extend our special Christmas buffet from Monday December 22 through to Thursday December 25. Smoked salmon, fresh oyster, Poached shrimp, Scallop with shell, top shell, roasted turkey, Whole Tuna head and yellow tail fish and much more. Lunch: 45,000 won (Includes Tax) Per person Dinner: 57,000 won (Includes Tax) Per person Reservations are essential: 062-610-7061~2

Christmas Special Dinner at Cloud Lounge The chefs and his culinary team has concocted a very selected menu of for Christmas. 4 COURSES MENU WITH WINES While enjoying the view on the 10th floors of the hotel, enjoy it with good company. 120,000 won (Includes tax)/per person

A Unique Lifetime Experience at Holiday Inn Gwangju For more information: 062-610-7063~4

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[This Month in Gwangju] Our municipal government would like to share some information with you.

Gwangju City Hall News Words by Benjamin Grady Young Compiled by Lee Jeonghwa, Kim Hyunyoung, Han Jeongbong, Han Juyeon, and Yong Yurim

Muan International Airport Photo courtesy of TravelOn

Persimmon tree tended by Gwangju Museum of Art Photo courtesy of Gwangju Museum of Art

MUAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EXPANDS SERVICE

THE FRUIT OF RECOVERY

Local and regional managers for Gwangju and the South Jeolla region respectively have worked with Muan International Airport to allow international flights from China, Japan and other East and Southeast Asian countries. This agreement, held primarily with the low-budget service T-way Airlines, will service Chinese cities initially and expand during the course of the next year. The deal also stipulates that any other flights established by T-way Airlines will go through Muan International Airport before other airports in the area. This new deal demonstrates a commitment from Gwangju and South Jeolla officials to make Muan a hub of international activity with a focus on attracting Chinese tourists. Facilities in and around Muan International Airport will see improvements, including new shopping centers and ATMs capable of accepting the “Eun-ryun” bank cards used by many Chinese travelers.

A commemorative persimmon tree, representing the sole surviving persimmon tree found after the 1945 bombing of the Japanese city Nagasaki, has borne fruit following a 14-year effort. It symbolizes the continued growth of the Korean-Japanese relationship and both countries’ commitments to peace. The first tree, planted by honorary ambassador Ha Jeong-woong and Japanese artist Miyajima Tatsuo in April, 2000, withered only a month later, presumably due to anti-Japanese vandalism. Mr. Ha replanted the tree in March of 2001 with a safety net to prevent further destruction, but it died seven years later due to root damage, again assumed to be the deliberate work of anti-Japanese nationalists spurred by the disagreement over Dokdo between Korea and Japan. Mr. Ha planted the tree for a third time at an undisclosed location somewhere in Jungoe Park to avoid the risk of further damage. This tree has been tended by the Gwangju Museum of Art, and it is this tree that has finally born the fruit of more than a decade of labor.

Please scan the QR Code for more info on Gwangju

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UNIVERSIADE BUDGET AND PLAN FINALIZED After 12 years of being hosted in other countries, the Universiade, occasionally referred to as the World Student Games, is returning to South Korea next year. Last hosted by Korea in Daegu in 2003, next year’s Universiade will be centered in Gwangju and take advantage of new venues in the city and surrounding areas starting July 3. The focus of the City these past few months has been on reducing and finalizing the budget for the international games. A total of 70 facilities, including 38 arenas and 32 training facilities, will be operational during the games. Of these, four will be newly constructed and the remaining 66 will be renovations of existing sports facilities. To stay under budget, generators, electronic displays and communications equipment will all be temporarily installed or rented. Several other changes to the final budget plan, including the relocation of the archery range and the substitution of several key arenas, as well as a commitment to renovating existing facilities rather than building new ones, have helped reduced the budget by a total of 142.7 billion won. With the budget finally complete, construction can soon begin.

GWANGJU CITY BUSES MINE ‘BIG DATA’ TO FILL GAPS City Hall has spent the past few weeks and months analyzing data collected from bus cards, telecommunications and city demographics in order to maximize the efficiency of the city bus system. In a public briefing session the City announced plans to fill “blind spots” that have received less than optimal service. The analysts looked at high-residency areas compared to the locations of bus stops and subway stations, then selected 10 highly populated areas without bus stops to be considered for bus line expansion. They also analyzed bus routes that are commonly used by the elderly and disabled, which they recommended be serviced by low-floor buses allowing for easier access. Finally, the analysts identified overburdened bus lines to which Gwangju City now plans to provide more service. This project is particularly meaningful in that it is the first demonstration of the benefits of “big data” analysis in Gwangju. A City Hall official commented that, “Gwangju will keep analyzing and utilizing the ‘big data’ … to offer conveniences to citizens and to lead in administrative innovation.”

PEER COUNSELING EXPANSION AND WORKSHOP Gwangju City recently hosted a suicide awareness and prevention workshop at its Jae-il and Seongdeok High Schools. While most schools in Gwangju employ a mental health professional, this workshop focused on peer counseling — a program that teaches students how to recognize suicidal tendencies and how to report them to a professional organization. Peer counseling is a growing focus of South Korea’s efforts against teen and student suicide, as studies show students are far more likely to express their feelings to friends. A similar program trained 147 counselors during two training sessions. These students play a vital role in schools around Gwangju which, according to the office of National Statistics, had the highest rate of suicide for the 15-19 age group in 2013.

Jeolla Safety Alliance is a group of Koreans and international residents alike to create awareness of crimes. This safety card is for you to cut out and keep handy! FB group: Jeolla Safety Alliance

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Photography As Art and Life An exploration of photography as a profession Words by Kate Jarocki Photo courtesy of Joe Wabe

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rt has long been part of Joe Wabe’s life, but today he makes it pay, living and working as a photographer. He runs a studio here in Gwangju with a partner and works on other ventures freelance. As a freelancer, Wabe sells his work through stock photo agencies that provide licensed work to companies for commercial purposes. His photos of happy people, for example, may be used to depict happiness in relation to an organization, or to promote sales of a certain product. More abstract is the idea of concept photography, in which his images can be used to stimulate memories of the public or to instill an idea in consumers’ minds. With his partner, Wabe provides photography services to the international community in Gwangju. Wedding photography is one area in which they specialize. They also provide couples, baby and family portraits. But what drives his passion, and why did he decide on photography? “Photography is an evolution of my graphic artist career,” said Wabe. Having loved art for as long as he can remember, his first memories of art are of drawing cartoons of people. When he got his first computer, he transitioned to graphic design and studied that through Florida International University. Upon graduation, he focused his career in the same sphere. As photography worked its way into

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more and more of his commercial design assignments, Wabe began to see its importance and eventually left the design field seven years ago to work solely in the field. After moving to photography as a singular career endeavor, his images began to gain notice through social media, exhibitions and contributions to different publications, and Wabe says he jumped right into the photography business. More recently, Wabe has created and positioned himself as editor-in-chief of Photographers In Korea, or P.I.K., an online magazine that brings together photographers from all over the Korean peninsula to work on photographic engagements such as photo walks and contests. It should also be noted that as of this issue, Joe Wabe is the photo editor for Gwangju News, replacing Simon Bond. Wabe’s biggest dream is to publish a book, which will showcase his own best work as well as the works of international photographers in Korea. Focusing on Gwangju, Wabe hopes for this dream to become a reality in the near future, and it is a project on which he is currently working. Wabe and his partner’s studio work can be viewed at www.dalkoom.photography. His own personal blog, kimchitales.com, features photos organized by topic, with short excerpts about each subject. For more information on his latest project, Photographers In Korea, please visit www.photographersinkorea.com.

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[Gwangju Plays] Gwangju Plays publicizes sports and recreation opportunities in Gwangju.

Ingress: The Fight to Control Gwangju Words by Lori Moody Photo courtesy of Ingress

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re you tired of playing the same boring games, or sitting on your couch staring aimlessly at a T.V.? Ingress may be the answer; a real world “massively multiplayer online game” (MMOG) that is taking over Gwangju. Developed by Niantic, a Google subsidiary, the game takes place in an alternative version of the real world on your smartphone. According to the in-game storyline, players join either The Enlightened faction or the Resistance, two groups that are hunting for alien “exotic matter,” or XM. Participants download the app, and then use a Google Maps style interface to find portals — typically a historical landmark, museum, sculpture, convention center and other popular destination point around the world — that have this exotic matter. Each team competes to control as much of the XM as possible. According to the Google Play store, there have been over 7 million downloads of the game so far worldwide, and now it is available to download on the iPhone as well. There are over six hundred Ingress members on Korea’s Google+, with more members being added every day. Even though the game has been out for over two years and has developed an intricate backstory, it is not hard for a new user to join. Player Stephanie Peters said, “There are two parts of Ingress. There’s the part where you run around blow- ing things up, basically playing ‘Capture-the-Flag’, and then there’s the part where there’s a complicat- ed mobile storyline. We don’t really play storylines, which sounds like a big copout, but it’s a lot of backstory

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to catch up on.” Ingress is only available in English, which can make it harder to enjoy the storyline for non-native speakers. Yang Hae-kwon (Ingress name: Samsungman) is a level 14 Resistance player. He’s one of the highest-ranking players in Gwangju and thinks that despite the language barrier, the mechanics of the game are easy. Of those who consider the game difficult, Yang is contemptuous. “They want to play in their chairs.” Kim Jae-in (Ingress name: NeoJaein) is a level 8 member of the Enlightened team who thinks Ingress is the next step to gaming. “Some people say that Ingress is the third-generation game. The first-generation game is video games. The second-generation game is DDR (Xbox, Dance Dance Revolution.) That makes people wake up from the sofa. The third generation is Ingress. It’s getting out of the house to walk around.” The easiest thing about the game, all of the players agreed, is how easy it is to commute and play the game. “I have seen so much of Gwangju that I’ve never seen because the best possible places to go are the places you’ve never been,” says Peters. “I’m going to go to the 5.18 Sangmu Park and take a portal, and it gives you a reason to get out and stretch your legs and go hunt down cool things that you’ve never seen.” Brian Burgoyne (Ingress name: 1BigFool), is a level 8 player on the Resistance team. He went from weighing 90 kilograms to weighing 85 in a month just by

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playing the game. “I walk between 6-10 miles a day. That’s why I got into this game more is because it gave me a path. This is my purpose for the day, and then I add it up on Google maps, and that is eight miles.” Gwangju’s tight-knit players are fiercely competitive. Right now the Enlightened team controls most of the downtown area, while the Resistance team has taken over the Sangmu area. In spite of their competitiveness, the factions were able to unite for a project this year entitled “Gwangju Lights.” In the game, once you capture a portal, you can connect the portals in an area and create a zone visible on the game map. This strengthens the area a team controls. The factions used their fields to spell out

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the Chinese symbol for light to represent Gwang (light) ju (province). “It took an enormous amount of coordination, because it meant that no one in Gwangju was allowed to make fields for a week and a half,” said Burgoyne. “There was a truce for like a week and a half! We couldn’t blow things up. We couldn’t make fields so we could spell this out, and it was visible across the city. On the world map, you could see the first character for Gwangju. It was very cool.” Each faction is looking for new members to fight for the cause. To get involved with the Gwangju Ingress community, sign up on Ingress Google+ or the Ingress: Gwangju: Enlightened Facebook page.

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[Gwangju Cooks] Gwangju Cooks equips would-be cooks with recipes for both classic Korean dishes and innovative fusion food.

Salad with Fried Shrimp Noodle 국수말이새우튀김샐러드 Words and photo by Han Juyeon

INGREDIENTS (serve 2-3 persons)

Plain noodles, 15 raw shrimp, ½ head of lettuce, 3 tablespoons of potato starch, 1 cup of cooking oil

TOOLS

shallow pan, pot, colander, small bowl, spoon, plates, paper towels

COOKING METHOD 1.

Boil the noodles in a pot and drain in a colander.

2.

Peel the shrimp and pat dry with paper towels.

3.

Wash the lettuce and pat dry with paper towels.

4.

Cover the shrimp with potato starch and wrap the noodles around the shrimp.

5.

Heat oil to 180 degrees Celsius in the shallow pan and fry the shrimp for 40-50 seconds on each side.

6.

Arrange lettuce on the plate and place the fried shrimp on top.

7.

Mix the mayonnaise, honey mustard, sugar and vinegar in a small bowl to create sauce.

8.

Drizzle the dressing over the shrimp and lettuce.

9.

Serve immediately.

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[Gwangju Eats] Gwangju Eats highlights the best and most unique dining experiences in Gwangju and South Jeolla.

Diem Hen Quan Words and photos by Cody Jarrett

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ometimes nothing feels more relaxing than a big bowl of soup and noodles. While everyone has their preference, most can agree that Vietnamese pho ranks near the top of the soup and noodles pantheon. Unfortunately, good pho can be hard to find in Gwangju. While there are a few chain versions available, they tend to miss the mark, using broth that is too sweet or thin. However, those with a craving for good pho are in luck; all it takes is a bus ride to Wolgok-dong to find some of the best noodles in town. ATMOSPHERE AND SERVICE Like a lot of restaurants in the area, Diem Hen Quan is a small, familyowned place. The restaurant is clean and bright, and the service is always friendly. One potential hurdle is the menu, which is written only in Vietnamese, with few pictures and no prices. Ordering pho is easy enough, but unless you are well-versed in Vietnamese cuisine, choosing anything else may be a bit of an adventure.

FOOD There are two varieties of pho available here: pho bo, which is made with beef, and pho ga, which uses chicken. Also available is a similar dish, hu tiu, a soup made from pork bones with shrimp and rice noodles. Both dishes come out in big, steaming bowls loaded with noodles, bean sprouts, cilantro and cha lua, a type of pork sausage. Along with the soup comes a big plate of more sprouts, cilantro and a few lemon wedges. Squeeze in some lemon and then add some hoisin and chili sauce to taste. Swirl it all together and listen as all conversation is replaced by the sound of slurping noodles. One hard-to-find delicacy that is occasionally available here is trung vit lon, better known by its Filipino name balut. Whatever you call it, it is a partially-developed duck embryo that is boiled in the shell and served with a salty pepper and lemon sauce. The taste is fairly similar to regular duck meat, but the texture depends on how developed the embryo is. While definitely not for everyone, it is absolutely recommended to more adventurous diners. Pho dishes are 7,000 won, with Vietnamese beer occasionally available. There is a small selection of Vietnamese goods available for purchase. DIRECTIONS Take a bus to Wolgok Market. With the market on your left, walk along the main road until you come to a Nonghyup Bank. Turn left after the bank and walk until you see Diem Hen Quan on the left.

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광주광역시 광산구 월곡동 550-17번지 550-17 Wolgok-dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju 010-8012-6272 Daily 8 a.m. – 10 p.m. Bus no 18, 20, 29, 37, 40, 46, 98, 196, 700, 701, 720 (Wolgok Market Stop)

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28 places to see

[Departing Gwangju] Departing Gwangju is Gwangju News’s monthly travel column. To submit your own adventure, email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr

India: Dreams to Memories Words and photos by Joey Nunez

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reamers are meant to be seekers, even when those dreams start in middle school. International residents like myself are blessed to live in Korea, where we have access to so many other Asian countries. This helped me feel at ease while planning a trip to India. All I really wanted to see was real life in India. Pictures and others’ stories were no longer good enough. And thanks to networking (which Dad and Mom taught me early, so thank you also to you two), reviving contact with a friend I met in Thailand over one dinner secured my first three days in Mumbai, and simply explaining my trip to someone in Gwangju a month before leaving guaranteed the remainder of my week’s stay in New Delhi. It is amazing how simply talking to people provided me with generous offers for a roof, food and travel recommendations, all free of cost!

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Before traveling, I spent time researching Mumbai and the sights I wanted to see. Once I arrived, my hosts were extremely hospitable, shuttling me to the places I wanted to see and suggesting a few more that were not on my list, but which actually became my favorite stops. Plans are good, to a certain degree, but sometimes they should be abandoned. From Mumbai, authentically interacting with people was my favorite lesson. I shared my thoughts on three different occasions — twice translated into Marathi, Mumbai’s local dialect — and spent time with a family committed to Christian ministry. My favorite memory was going to a reservoir with them. Mist saturated the atmosphere, preventing exhaustion from the normal July heat and monsoon rain. During this three-day stay, the rain fell and I enjoyed waking up to its rhythm: a sign of full rest as I began preparing for what the day’s activities would bring.

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29 places to see

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Previous page: Taj Mahal in Agra 1. Writer in front of Gate of India in Mumbai 2. Jaipur: The Pink City in Mid-Day 3. Red Fort in Agra 4. Writer meeting India’s local children

Consistent rain and abundant sleep did not travel with me to New Delhi, as I knew from my planning in Korea that there were many sites I wanted to see and activities I wanted to do in India’s capital. Whereas I saw more people in Mumbai and conversed at ease with them, I saw more places in New Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, and spoke less. It is interesting how much louder messages project once we take time to listen. The Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum exhibited a woman’s legacy and encouraged me to see how much of a difference a single person can make in a country. Raj Ghat, the tomb of Mahatma Gandhi, instilled appreciation in me for the great man’s advocacy for peace, especially when my taxi driver offered his public gratitude. The Red Fort protected humanity and historic landmarks within its walls and displayed how Indian culture can be preserved and function in India’s developing society.

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Outside New Delhi I also learned a lot. Traveling to and staying in Jaipur for about 30 minutes taught me contentment, as I marveled at the friendly interactions between cows and vehicles, purchased a number of English books about India and was also amazed by two sudden rain showers before I reached the “Pink City.” And, of course, the Taj Mahal’s magnificence in Agra is one that cannot be understood without a personal visit. The time spent in and around this tomb’s garden grounds was time and energy well spent, as I visualized love that transcends language. The pictures on these pages share their own stories. May this article inspire you as you create your 2015 summer vacations, no matter when or how long they are. After all, when one dreams at 11-years-old to go somewhere, who is to stop that person from following their dreams?

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30 places to see

[Korea in the World] Korea in the World is a look at the varied experiences of the Korean diaspora.

Poland

Words and photos by Choi Jinsil

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hough Poland is not as popular among Koreans as other Western European countries, Korean culture is becoming more accepted there. For example, K-pop is gaining popularity among teenagers and university students in Warsaw. Both Poland’s growing economy and love of Korean culture helped me to choose this country for my first experience abroad. KOREA CULTURAL CENTER The Korean Cultural Center in Warsaw was a great place to get in touch with the Korean community. When I visited, I found it quite impressive. The center was well-equipped; there were Korean language, K-pop dance classes and taekwondo classes. K-Pop fans could take photos next to celebrity cutouts of groups like Shiny, 2ne1, and Super Junior. Furthermore, there were a variety of books to educate people about Korean culture, and every year the center hosts a big event. KOREA COMMUNITY Koreans in Poland have an active business and social community. I saw Korean companies such as Samsung, LG Electronics, Hyundai and the Korean Trade-Investment Promotion Agency (KOTRA). Many Koreans connect through churches or community activities. The Polish-Korean community often sponsors events and works to unite Koreans living in Poland. They also provide Korean language schools for children. Interestingly, the Korean embassy in Poland, KOTRA and the Korean Cultural Center collaborate for events and projects. In June, they helped to organize the Korea Festival. I was able to attend an annual dinner hosted by the Korean Embassy for Koreans studying in Warsaw. It

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was not only a good opportunity to visit the ambassador’s residence and listen to a speech, but a great way to meet students from different universities in the city. Whenever I went to the Korean Cultural Center or was with the Korean community, I felt as welcome as if I were home. MEETING THE CEO OF A KOREAN COMPANY IN POLAND It has been 25 years since Korea and Poland began a diplomatic relationship. I am so grateful that because of this relationship, many Korean companies exist in Poland. I met one Korean man who worked for LG and now has his own business in Poland. I listened to his story about how he started his company and his difficulty managing Polish workers because of cultural differences. He gave us good advice about managerial roles and was a mentor with a lot of valuable experiences living in Poland. He also took us out to a great dinner at a Korean restaurant called Shilla.

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Even though I am living in a new environment, I feel comfortable because of kind people from my country and the communities that I am involved with. I can always find a Korean restaurant whenever I am homesick.

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Writer (right) and the Ambassador for Republic of Korea in Poland Old town Main Square, Warsaw, Poland Mermaid Statue in Sawa Lazienki Park, Warsaw The writer also got the chance to visit far-off places, including Auschwitz Korea Cultural Center in Warsaw Palace of Culture and Science in Warsaw

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32 places to see

[My Korea] My Korea allows readers the opportunity to explain why particular locations in Korea are special to them. To submit your own recollection, email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr

The 5.18 Memorials Words by Mathew Jacob Photos by Mark Eaton

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eing associated with the human rights movements in India for a while now, coming to Gwangju was a difficult decision. It was difficult to drift away from the mounting challenges I used to engage, but at the same time, Gwangju has been more than welcoming, provided a road map to reflect on and get inspired from what the citizens did in 1980. For me, the historic May 18 Uprising shall ever remain a beacon of democracy in the world. The fight for democracy was a fight against dictatorship and autocracy. It succeeded in overthrowing a dictatorship, but the struggle to triumph over autocratic ways continues. The seed for the democratic struggle was sown during the period of ten days, May 18-27 of 1980 in Gwangju – ten days that shook South Korea. It witnessed students, workers, mothers and the most common of the citizens occupy the streets against military might. The military was successful in

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crushing the movement, only to spread the fire of democracy across the country. Eight years from the historic uprising in Gwangju, Korea adorned itself with democracy. This democracy was successful in obtaining convictions of two former presidents directly involved in the Gwangju Massacre, enacting the 5.18 Law and recognizing Gwangju Uprising as a milestone in modern Korean history. The citizens of Gwangju continue their struggle on two important aspects of the uprising – bringing to light who ordered the firing at peacefully demonstrating citizens on May 21 and the role of the US army, as the movements of the Korean armed forces were determined by it. The western world, as the rest of Asia, both geographically close or far, has little knowledge about these democratic struggles. The Gwangju uprising,

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33 places to see

while extremely prominent in Gwangju even 34 years down Memory Lane, is a little less known among the younger generation. These uprisings have been very systematically reduced to a couple of pages of the Korean modern history in schools. For the people of the West, Korea today stands for Samsung, Hyundai and K-pop. Can civil societies across Asia, struggling to uphold justice and human rights, look eastward towards Gwangju and draw inspiration? Certainly, yes, because Gwangju teaches us that the fight for justice and condemnation of state power are not the only important elements of any revolution. For a revolution to be successful, it is imperative that the oppressors are prosecuted and the marchers are provided true recognition in the national history. Gwangju teaches us that a nation can only be built on pillars of recognition of the aspirations of its youth, recognition of its working class, opportunities for the marginalized and equality among all its citizens. The long campaign for democratization by Gwangju ensured recognition and respect to those who were martyred and those who survived. Gwangju made sure that the revolution is remembered and lives on in full spirit. The subways, buses, foundations,

memorials, archives, parks, cemetery and other daily encounters portray the heroics of the past, so that anyone who visits or hears about Gwangju will surely come across May 1980. With Korea’s involvement in globalization, close ties with the United States of America, its government’s narrow vision and conservative approach on unification, and its extreme push for economic growth, the fight for true democracy is bound to heat up. Two recent incidents of the state’s high handedness were the May 18 commemorative ceremony, in which the May 18 anthem “March for My Beloved” was not permitted, and the taking down of a painting critical of the government within the Gwangju Biennale. Gwangju stands tall today, not only for its clarion call for democracy but for continuing to resist state oppression. Surely the times have changed and so have the forms of oppression, but they will be met with rejuvenated resistance. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Mathew Jacob is currently an international intern with the May 18 Memorial Foundation, Gwangju, South Korea. He can be reached at mathewjaacob@gmail.com.

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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

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[Photo Essay]

Baekyang Temple Words and photos by Abhishek Sahu

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ince I got back to Korea six months ago, I have been very busy with work. I haven’t had many chances to go out with my camera. A few weeks back when my photographer friend asked me if I was interested to go to Baekyang Temple for a daytrip, I immediately said yes. My love story with Baekyang Temple began in the fall of 2011 when I visited the place for the first time. It is not only the natural beauty but the sense of calm, the sense of serenity about the place which engrosses me. I have visited the temple many times, in every season. But fall is always special. All the vibrant reds and yellows from the autumn leaves add an extra layer of splendor to the whole place.

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This year’s visit to Baekyang Temple was different not only because I was returning after a long break, but also because I had the company of two great friends, Joe Wabe and Lorryn Smit. We were there very early in the morning, when sunlight was just breaking through the mist and there were dew drops on the fallen leaves, on the blades of grass and on the spider webs. Although the autumn leaves were not at their peak color, it was still very beautiful. Every visit there gives me an opportunity to look at the same thing differently. My eyes start to search for more and more small things, fine details which I may have overlooked in the past.

By the afternoon there were a few thousand visitors there enjoying the beauty, taking their pictures with the colorful leaves, having picnics with family and friends. The total atmosphere was very festive, a celebration of the magnificence of nature. We finished our day with some pajeon and makkeoli before coming back to Gwangju. I am waiting eagerly for my next visit. Hopefully, when all the leaves are gone and snow covers the whole area, winter will transform it into an equally beautiful, but totally different, dreamland.

SHARE YOUR PHOTOS WITH GWANGJU! Interested in having your pictures as Gwangju News’ photo essay? Send your pictures of Korea to our photo editor at info@photographersinkorea.com. We look forward to sharing your work.

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[Photo of the Month] By Lorryn Smit

“Autumn carries more gold in its pocket than all the other seasons.” – Jim Bishop

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all has always been my favorite time of the year here in Korea. It is the last time the earth gives us a glimpse of true beauty. It is as if Mother Nature has been saving something special for us all year. The muggy summer heat suddenly disappears, as though someone has taken a cloth and dusted Korea off. Everything looks crisp and clear again. People creep out of their homes again and into the light. Each day is more beautiful than the last and each day

I fall head over heels for Korea again. This is the season of inspiration. Around every corner there is something beautiful: the leaves, the blue skies and the gorgeous, gorgeous light. It is the last pretty smile of the year. Fall is my time. It awakens my soul. It brings magic. It brings love.

SHARE YOUR PHOTO WITH GWANGJU! Interested in having one of your pictures as Gwangju News’ Photo Of The Month? Send your picture of Korea to our photo editor at info@photographersinkorea.com. We look forward to sharing your work.

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37 culture

Standing Up to Destiny: Korean-American Poet Ed Bok Lee Words and photo provided by Robert Grotjohn

when you’re singing karaoke, there are more important things than staying in tune;... the only thing that really matters is ... Destiny and how much you can affect it with the far end of your voice. how much you can stand up to it ...

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hose lines appear near the beginning of award-winning poet Ed Bok Lee’s “Real Karaoke People,” and anyone who has spent any committed time in a noraebang has a pretty good idea of what he means. On December 4, Chonnam National University will host Mr. Lee for a reading and discussion sponsored by the University’s British and American Culture Research Center, the Department of English Language and Literature, and the U.S. Embassy in Seoul. Lee has received high praise for his work from poets and critics alike. His first book, “Whorled” (Coffee House Press 2011), won an American Book Award and a Minnesota Book Award for Poetry. “Real Karaoke People” (New Rivers Press 2005) won an Asian American Writers’ Workshop Members’ Choice Award and the PEN Open Book Award. Lee also writes plays and teaches creative writing at Metropolitan State University in St. Paul. In an interview on the Coffee House website, he describes his background: “I am an American poet, born of parents who lived through the Korean War — my mother from what is now the (communist) North, my father from what is now the (capitalist) South. I attended kindergarten in South Korea, grew up in North Dakota and Minnesota, and have lived, worked, and studied in America, South Korea, Russia and Kazakhstan.” He says that his first book looks more to the past, while his second book looks more toward a globalized future, and not always happily. Both of those perspectives relate to his Korean heritage. “I have memories of a Third World Korea, from childhood, shanty towns, how the people acted, sounded, smelled, etc. Korea is now basically a First World nation, ... I feel very compelled to try to make an artful document of this shift in consciousness, and then superimpose that on how I feel about globalization and, perhaps, ultimately, on the future of America.” The reading is open to the public, and lovers of poetry and performance are invited to attend. Date and Time: Thursday, December 4, 4:30 p.m. Place: Chonnam National University, Humanities Building 1, Room 103 (인문대 1호관 103호). For more about Lee and his art, check out his website edbooklee.com.

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[Korean Poetry] Korean Poetry translates the works of Korea’s prominent poets into English.

“Chŏlla Lass” by Lee Yong-ak Words by Lee Yong-ak Translation by Brother Anthony of Taize (An Sonjae) Photo courtesy of Corner Stone (http://blog.ohmynews.com/cornerstone) *From Brother Anthony’s online collection of his translations. Used with permission.

전라도 가시내 <1947년> 알룩조개에 입맞추며 자랐나 눈이 바다처럼 푸를 뿐더러 까무스레한 네 얼굴 가시내야 나는 발을 얼구며 무쇠다리를 건너온 함경도 사내 바람소리도 호개도 인전 무섭지 않다만 어드운 등불 밑 안개처럼 자욱한 시름을 달게 마시련다만 어디서 흉참한 기별이 뛰어들 것만 같애 두터운 벽도 이웃도 못 미더운 북간도 술막 온갖 방자의 말을 품고 왔다 눈포래를 뚫고 왔다 가시내야 너의 가슴 그늘진 숲속을 기어간 오솔길을 나는 헤매이자 술을 부어 남실남실 술을 따르어 가난한 이야기에 고이 잠거다오 네 두만강을 건너왔다는 석 달 전이면 단풍이 물들어 천리 천리 또 천리 산마다 불탔을 겐데 그래도 외로워서 슬퍼서 초마폭으로 얼굴을 가렸더냐 두 낮 두 밤을 두루미처럼 울어 울어 불술기 구름 속을 달리는 양 유리창이 흐리더냐 차알삭 부서지는 파도소리에 취한 듯 때로 싸늘한 웃음이 소리 없이 새기는 보조개 가시내야 울 듯 울 듯 울지 않는 전라도 가시내야 두어 마디 너의 사투리로 때아닌 봄을 불러줄께 손때 수집은 분홍 댕기 휘 휘 날리며 잠깐 너의 나라로 돌아가거라 이윽고 얼음길이 밝으면 나는 눈포래 휘감아치는 벌판에 우줄우줄 나설 게다 노래도 없이 사라질 게다 자욱도 없이 사라질 게다

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Lee Yong-ak (1914 to 1971) was born in North Hamkyeong Province in North Korea on the border with China. He was educated in Japan, spent time as part of the Korean diaspora in Manchuria and Siberia, was imprisoned by Syngman Rhee, and lived in the North after the armistice. In this poem, he connects the furthest northeastern province of Korea with the furthest southwestern province in imagining a meeting with the “Chŏlla Lass.”

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Chŏlla Lass You grew up kissing soft clams with colorful shells, your eyes are blue as the sea, your face lightly tanned, little lass. And I am a lad from Hamkyŏng who crossed the iron bridge with freezing feet. The sound of the wind and of tigers howling are not so fearful now. Beneath this feeble lamp I long to drink down the cares crowding in like fog, but I feel as though some appalling news will come rushing in, in this Manchurian tavern where I cannot trust thick walls or neighbors. I have come harboring all kinds of curses. I have come through fierce blizzards. Little lass, as I wander down the shady woodland lanes that lie in your breast, pour wine, pour to the brim daintily and steep it softly in your story of destitution, please. You crossed the Tuman River three months ago, you say? Surely every hill you crossed, mile after mile after mile was aflame with scarlet leaves then? Still, you must have hidden your face in your skirt, lonely and sorrowful? You must have wept like a crane for two days and nights as the train went hurrying as if in the clouds, the windows must have misted over? Seemingly intoxicated by the gentle breaking of waves, you sometimes smile a frozen smile, silently showing dimples, little lass, about to weep, about to weep, never weeping Chŏlla lass, let me summon out-of-season spring with a few words in your dialect. Go back for just a moment to your homeland, your pink pigtail-ribbon with its dirty finger marks flapping in the wind. As soon as the icy road grows light I shall be setting briskly off across the snow-swept plains I shall vanish without so much as a song. I shall vanish without a trace.

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[Gwangju Writes] Gwangju Writes presents the poems, short stories and creative nonfiction of South Jeolla residents. Views and opinions expressed herein are not necessarily supported by Gwangju News or even the author. To submit your own work, e-mail: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr

Remember the Words A short story by Trevor Groce

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figured the cabbie wasn’t pleased about us cutting our trip short, so after Hayley handed him 5,000 won and stumbled out onto the sidewalk I passed him another 1,000 won bill, did my best approximation of an honorific thanks and scurried out myself. When I looked up Hayley was leaning with one hand pressed against his thigh and the other against a tree, his head hanging over a couple of bulging garbage bags.

“Get yourself straightened out. I’ll grab another taxi,” I told him as I leaned out over the curb and scanned up and down the road. Our previous cab was picking up a couple of men from the corner of the block. A couple more stood smoking until after it had pulled away, then dropped and stomped out their cigarettes before walking around the corner and out of sight. There were no cars in either direction. It may have been later than I thought. It may just have been a quiet street.

“Get it out, Hayley! We need to catch another cab.” Hayley exhaled audibly. “It’s not coming up.”

“No, wait!” I heard Hayley clomping toward me as he shouted this. “No taxi. I’m not ready!”

“What did we stop for, then?”

“Get ready. There’ll be one soon.”

“Sorry,” Hayley squawked. Eventually he pushed off the tree to stand mostly upright again. “Shouldn’t you be happy for me?”

“No, I don’t want to go home.” Hayley was huffing. He got himself to me as quickly as he could. “I’m exhausted. It’s almost day again. Time to rest.”

Two months before, at the end of a similar night of cathartic bacchanalia, Hayley had opened the taxi door but deposited a bit of what he’d consumed that day on the door panel before he could get all the way out. So although I was relieved on this night to not be frantically wiping away what Hayley chucked up while also trying to guess if I’d have enough cash on hand to placate the driver, who was lambasting me with what I could only understand as bile, I couldn’t really say I was happy for him. Hayley budged one of the bags with his foot while turning toward me. A clear plastic coffee cup tumbled from the top and thudded against the cobblestones. Diluted coffee dripped through the lid as it rolled back and forth, leaving a darkened crescent on the brown stones. We were still a ten-minute cab ride from our neighborhood and I had no idea what time it was, other than a suspicion that the sun couldn’t be more than a couple hours from reappearing. It felt like the long night was about gone, and I was feeling frantic for sleep.

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“Let’s find a noraebang.” His hand was on my left shoulder. “You don’t have to sing. You can just sit. I just want to sing.” He lost his balance again, his one hand pushing against my deltoid. I widened my stance and put my weight on my right foot to keep us upright, mostly. “We need to sleep this off.” “I can’t. I need to sing.” I grabbed his hand and we turned to scan the wall of signs behind us. Around the corner we spotted a sign for a singing room on the second floor. The entrance was next to a convenience store. The men leftover from the quartet we’d seen before sat on plastic stools on either side of a table strewn with empty bottles and crumpled chip bags, their mouths open to little trails of crumbs. One of the men watched us approach. His eyes stayed uncomfortably locked on me, but he shifted in his seat and pursed his lips as though he

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wanted to talk to us. Perhaps earlier in the night he would have given it a shot, but English would have taken too much effort by that point. He lifted a small dark glass bottle of vitamin drink to his lips in relieved resignation and we walked silently through the door, past the stairs to the elevator in the middle of the hall. In the flat white lighting of the elevator we caught each other’s eyes in the mirrored surfaces of the door panels as they slid shut. I knew I didn’t want to see myself that far into the night, so I looked at Hayley and hoped I was in better shape than he was. The brew inside him was showing itself in his sickly pale face. His eyes were half-shut, and when he saw me looking he dropped his gaze down to the floor. “Your shoe’s untied,” he whispered. I groaned, knowing I didn’t have the energy or the command of my motor skills necessary to kneel down, tie them, and get back to my feet without plenty of help. And I couldn’t count on enough from this companion. I looked down anyway. He laughed. “Hah! Those shoes don’t even have strings.” I looked down at my mauve flats and grunted in a way I hoped sounded good-natured. Hayley chuckled with all the strength he could muster, and I guessed he’d last another hour and a half before winding down enough to sleep. We’d had enough of these nights together since we met last year that I could recognize them. The first time was at the end of his first month in the country, after we’d met a few times at dinners with some other teachers from our schools. We all went out late after work on a Friday night, and Hayley and I had our first chance for a one-on-one conversation. I’d picked up his hometown, age, alma mater, and major during previous meetings, so when we were sitting alone at the bar I asked him why he’d come to Korea. First he snickered. “I’m sorry, I’m sick of that question. Everyone asks that. I’ve tried answering it so many different ways. Let’s talk about something else.” So I asked why he’d left Ohio. To his credit, he chuckled and told me. Just like he requested, we haven’t discussed her since then, even when I could tell he was thinking about her.

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It occurred to me when we walked into the dimly lit entrance of the noraebang that I’d never gone to one without a Korean speaker, so I wasn’t sure what to attempt to say to the middle-aged woman who rose from a little sofa in a corner of the room behind a folding screen and came over to the desk. I thought it should have been obvious what I wanted, but she looked at me, waiting for something. I held up two fingers for two people, mumbled “Two,” and rolled my eyes toward Hayley. The woman said something to us in Korean which sounded as though it would be the obvious response, that she’d show us to a room and turn on the karaoke machine, so I nodded. “Yeah.” With a blank gaze she looked me over and then Hayley, trying not to imagine the debauchery we would not be getting up to in her establishment. Then she led us to the first door down the hall and set us up inside. Hayley collapsed on the couch once she closed the door. “Alright, let’s go!” His eyes were closed and buried in the crook of his elbow. I picked up the controller. The power button dimmed the lights and turned on a disco ball next to the television screen. I claimed my corner of the couch. “Give me a number,” I told Hayley. He didn’t move, so I opened up the binder myself. English songs are usually in the back, and within about thirty seconds I’d found them. I felt like some Queen, but entered the wrong number. A Korean song started playing, a chipper-sounding woman wailing against a video of summer scenes on the monitor. “Your Song!” Hayley called. I sat on the far side of the couch and flipped a few pages, to the Ys. “They don’t have it,” I lied. He played it each time we went to a singing room, and the whole group usually joined in. I know it must have been their song, so it was the last thing he needed to hear. Hayley pushed himself up to the table. “I need to hear it. To remember the words.” He propped his head up on his arms and I reclined on the couch, watching the faded scenes of children feeding ducks in a pond. The edge of the table blocked the left side of the screen from my view, so I watched the right half. As my mind surrendered to sleep it seemed the ducks were nibbling off large chunks of hangeul.

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[Birds Korea] Birds Korea advocates for the conservation of birds and their habitats through research, education and public-awareness raising.

Can We Connect? Words and photos provided by Jason Loghry

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n Korea, there are about 365 regularly-occurring bird species. Some 87 percent of these birds are migratory. Of these bird species, at least 103 species have declined substantially just this century and two are facing global extinction. Still, many of us living in Korea, including teachers, parents and elders, do not know about these decreases. Recent headlines show that the earth has lost more than half of its wildlife populations since 1970. These are critical trends, and one of the first steps to reversing them could be as simple as going outside, and taking a child with you.

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Studies show that outdoor learning promotes positive behavior, engages students to achieve more, improves physical self-image and fitness and contributes to higher test scores. Research also shows that children who do not usually encounter wildlife develop unreasonable fears towards it. Therefore, it is safe to assume that the more we know about nature, the more likely we will grow up wanting to conserve it. As a child, many of my years were spent with my father, quietly walking through local wildlife refuges. Supported inquiries about nature created a strong connection within me toward the land and water. Now a teacher, I want to share similar opportunities with others to help strengthen their connections with nature too. In the past few years, my students have learned a lot about birds. At camps, we studied about endangered bird species, bird-watching and habitats. We exchanged postcards and participated in an animation project with over 500 students from eight different countries. These programs were wellreceived and our school encouraged us to start a bird-watching club. Since May, we have had the unique opportunity to learn outdoors.

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2 1,2. Students are encouraged to learn about birdwatching outdoors and inside the classroom.

A teacher recently asked me how this program will continue after I leave. As a Birds Korean, I want to help make the necessary tools available for this kind of learning. Imagine a field guide that includes lesson plans and a teacher’s guide, for teachers who do not know anything about birds. It would be so valuable for teachers wanting to learn outdoors with their students. I have some experience but making these materials will not be easy. Together we can make this possibility happen. If you are an educator in Gwangju who would like to help, please contact Birds Korea. Together, we can help our children stay connected with nature.

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[Health] The health column is written by a health professional to inform on health-related issues.

HIV in Korea:

A Tangled Mess of Law, Stigma, and Bad Public Health Words by Jessica Keralis

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he routine health check required to teach English in Korea is a familiar annoyance to native English teachers, who have bonded over shared stories of blood pressure and temperature checks, blood and urine samples, and chest X-rays. Unfortunately, “routine” has an asterisk next to it: if a teacher tests positive for the human immunodeficiency virus, popularly known as HIV, the teacher will lose his or her job and be deported. This reaction has been recognized as discrimination, bad policy, and part of a larger problem of stigmatization of HIV in Korean society. HIV is a disease that is present in bodily fluids. The virus can only be transmitted to another person through sexual contact, needle-sharing, from a pregnant mother to her baby, or through breast milk. The percentage of adults with HIV in South Korea is very low, about 0.1%. The most recent figures available from the Korean Centers for Disease Control (KCDC) estimate that there are 7,780 South Koreans living with HIV. In 2012, there were 868 new diagnoses reported among Koreans and 85 among foreigners. Currently, E-2 visa applicants are the only group required to be tested for HIV under Korean law. Supposedly, the reason why is that in 2007, a Canadian man who had formerly taught English in Korea was arrested for sex crimes against children in southeast Asia. Though he was never linked to sex crimes in Korea and was not known to carry HIV, his arrest sparked a moral panic and a fear of foreign teachers. There are multiple problems with the response to this scandal, of course. HIV-positive status does not make someone a criminal, and HIV cannot be transmitted in the classroom, so outlawing it does not make students safer. When contacted by the Korea Herald in 2010, an official from the Ministry of Education cited only parental concerns and a public opinion poll as justification. The government recently dropped the

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HIV test requirement for visa renewal, but new applicants must still be screened — and many schools disregard the law and insist on HIV tests for foreign teachers each year anyway. Koreans are no safer from HIV stigma, and those who discover they are HIV-positive are pushed to the fringes of society if they disclose their status. Despite it being illegal, companies often screen new employees for the virus during the required health check, and workers are often fired if their employers find out they are HIV-positive. One study on HIV-related attitudes among Korean high school students found that nearly half (42.9%) supported forcing people with HIV to live in isolated residences. The virus is associated with homosexuality and promiscuity, which are taboo in Korean society, and misinformation is rampant, which makes discrimination more insidious and difficult to combat. This stigma actually makes preventing the disease’s spread more difficult. HIV-positive individuals might not get the medication they need in order to try to hide their infection. This is a big deal, because HIVpositive people who are not taking their medication are much more likely to pass the virus on to a sexual partner. To make matters worse, those at risk for infection often choose not to get tested at all so they do not have to know their status — which means they fail to get the care they need and are more likely to infect others. Our knowledge of HIV has come a long way since the virus was first discovered in 1983, but public health policy to control the spread of the virus will only be effective if they are based on good science. Koreans and foreigners will be better protected against HIV when the government combats stigma, rather than enforces it.

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[KOTESOL] KOTESOL promotes scholarship, disseminates information, and facilitates cross-cultural understanding among persons concerned with teaching and learning English in Korea.

Tips & Techniques for Communicating Instructions Words by Lindsay Herron

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hen you explain an activity to your EFL students, do they just look at you blankly? Or perhaps they nod their understanding and then immediately turn to ask each other, “What did she say?” As English teachers in Korea, we have all been in this kind of situation, and we have all had activities fail because of an inability to communicate what we wanted students to do. Fortunately, with some careful planning and practicing, these kinds of communication failures can be minimized. Below are five techniques that I have found useful over the years to communicate even the most complicated instructions. 1. MODEL, MODEL, MODEL. Many new teachers overlook the power of this simple technique. Instead of explaining what you want students to do, show them! Model the activity yourself, or walk some student volunteers through the activity, while the other students observe. You can draw students’ attention to salient details by asking questions (“What is this?” “What is next?” “Is it right?”) and by encouraging predictions about what the next step is. After students get started on the activity, you can reinforce what you are looking for by pointing out students who are doing it correctly: “Like this!” 2. REMEMBER TO KISS. Keep It Short and Simple (KISS)! Use simple, grammatically correct directions. Honestly, I have encountered very few activities that could not be explained in 15 words or fewer, not counting the modeling of the target language. Sometimes it helps, when preparing your instructions, to try teaching the activity

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in silence, paying careful attention to your gestures and facial expressions. Then start adding words — especially if they are simple directions you intend to use repeatedly in the future. 3. FOCUS ON THE PRESENT. Instead of telling students what you are “going to” do, just do it. For example, instead of announcing, “I am going to give you some cards, and then you are going to take turns...,” just give out the cards. Then model or explain the remaining processes step by step: tell them one step, and then give them time to do it. Then move onto the next step. This step-by-step process gives you a chance to visually confirm that students are on track and address any problems or misunderstandings. Here, too, it is useful to point out students who are doing it properly, so others can follow their example. 4. CHECK FOR UNDERSTANDING. “Do you understand?” is rarely a productive question; instead, try to figure out the key points in your instructions where misunderstandings might occur and ask about these points, specifically. You can conduct a visual check (e.g., ask students to point to where they are going next, or ask each character in a role play to raise his or her hand, You can also model doing the activity the wrong way and then ask, “Is it OK?”, or you can ask questions designed to pinpoint where confusion might be lurking (e.g., “So, will you speak loudly or quietly?” “Can you look at your partner’s paper?” “Just do one and then... are you finished?”). 5. CHOOSE APPROPRIATE ACTIVITIES.

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follow directi

ons!

classroom instructions

Remember, what is clear to you might be completely unfamiliar to your students. For example, I have had young students who were completely baffled by the concept of a survey, and one of my American acquaintances had difficulty teaching Battleship, a common American children’s game, to her students. When planning a lesson, keep these potential problems in mind. This applies, too, to the contents of the activity. For example, if you are teaching ordinal numbers (i.e., first, second, third) and using the context of the Olympics, it might be better to stick with familiar country names instead of unfamiliar country names, so students can easily focus on the target language instead of becoming bogged down in tangential details. Some teachers have asked me, “What do you think about translating instructions into Korean?” This is a little controversial. On the one hand, if English

instructions are consistently translated into Korean, the students have little incentive to listen to the English — and the instructor has little motivation to improve her instruction techniques. On the other hand, if you are introducing a complex activity that you are going to use repeatedly in the future; if giving instructions in English is going to require more time than the activity, itself; or if, despite your best efforts, students just are not getting it, L1 translation can be very useful. Try to plan for its use, though, so it does not become a mere crutch to fall back on! Finally, when you think about your instructions, consider this: are you sure you need to explain the activity at all? Sometimes it is possible to just do it, without preamble, and let students figure out the details as they go, particularly with whole-class activities where you can give immediate cues and feedback about what they are doing. It is OK for students to be a little confused at first — but it should be the kind of struggling that happens in a video game, where the struggle does not prompt students to disconnect and give up, but instead to have fun figuring out how to do something. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Lindsay Herron is Treasurer of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the Chapter, she invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings and special events. Lindsay is a visiting professor at Gwangju National University of Education, where she has taught for the past six years. She is also presently the National First VicePresident of KOTESOL, Membership Committee Chair, and a chair on the International Conference Committee.

KOTESOL MONTHLY CHAPTER MEETING Date & Time: December 6 (Saturday), 1:45 p.m. 6 p.m.: Annual Year-End Holiday Dinner at Gwangju International Center Auditorium (1st Fl.) Place: Chosun University, Main Building, Left Wing, Rm 4211 Admission: No Charge (Afternoon Meeting Admission: No Charge) Morning (11:00) Reflective Practice Session 1. Presentation: Getting the Most Out of Your Coursebook Activities By Jessica Ives (Dongshin University) 2. Collaborative Workshop: What Makes a Classroom Language-Learning Activity Good (and how to make ‘em even better) By Dr. David Shaffer (Chosun University) For more details: Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL Website: http://koreatesol.org/gwangju Email: gwangju@koreatesol.org Twitter: @GwangjuKOTESOL

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[GIC Culture Tour] Each month the GIC’s knowledgable guide offers a new, budget-friendly chance to experience the authentic South Jeolla. Sign up now!

Jangheung Spa Experience Words and photos by Warren Parsons

GIC Culture Tour

Date: December 20, 2014 Price: GIC Members 40,000 won/ Non-Members 50,000 won Contact: 062-226-2733 (이보람 Boram Lee) or gic@gic.or.kr / gictour@gic.or.kr

Gwangju

Andante Sea Water Spa Resort

Lunch @ Oyster Farm Restaurant

Gwangju: Adios 2014: GIC End-of-the-Year Party

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ecember is the time to celebrate the end of the year and the festivities of the winter holidays. This month the GIC Culture Tour visits the seaside fishing and farming town of Jangheung for an invigorating spa experience and a convivial lunch of grilled oysters before returning to Gwangju to join the GIC “Adios 2014” party. Jangheung is blessed with a particularly beautiful landscape of mountains and fields, along with open stretches of coastline fronting the South Sea. The Andante Resort at Sumun Beach encapsulates the charm of South Jeolla by providing modern facilities juxtaposed with the fishing village traditions of the area. The spa offers three floors of hot tubs, saunas and massage rooms, along with the quintessential Korean relaxation experience, the jjimjilbang. Among the variety of ways to stay warm and steamy on a cold winter’s day, this resort has unique seawater baths at different temperatures, including one steeped with green tea leaves from nearby Boseong. Besides being therapeutic and great for the skin, the baths all face giant glass windows looking onto the sea. In the jjimjilbang, participants can cozy up in a dry sauna and gaze at the scenery while drinking a cold beverage, or sweat out all of the toxins of the

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past year in a cypress-walled traditional bulgama, an exceedingly hot kiln-like room heated with fire. Whatever the case, this spa is a great place to relax and heal the body and the mind, as well as enjoy the company and community of friends while reflecting on the past year. After refreshing the body and the soul at the resort, the GIC Culture Tour moves to the slopes of Janghueng’s patron Cheongwan Mountain to enjoy a seasonal specialty: grilled oysters. Farmed locally and harvested daily, the oysters come directly from the nearby sea to the restaurant. The owners of

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this family business offer the freshest oysters in a frills-free greenhouse structure installed among the rice fields. Large metal kettles are heated with gas burners and strewn with dozens of oysters for participants to shuck and eat at their leisure. Eating here is more than just lunch — it is an opportunity to enjoy a yearly tradition and to socialize around a blazing fire. Full of oysters and of cheer, the tour leaves Jangheung and heads back up to Gwangju to continue the merry atmosphere at the GIC Potluck Party. The GIC staff and volunteers are preparing an afternoon of food, drink, and friendship at the GIC, so the whole GIC Culture Tour is invited to attend! Note: The Andante Resort Spa is like a typical Korean sauna and jjimjilbang in that changing rooms, showers, and wet baths are divided by gender, and clothing is not allowed in the hot tubs. The jjimjilbang and associated dry saunas are co-ed and clothing is provided. It is useful to bring personal toiletries for use in the shower rooms, and for those who have not had this type of experience, it is important to come with a sense of adventure and an open mind.

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Join Our Team! Gwangju News always need volunteers who want to share their expertise or gain some. We welcome anyone who would like to join our team of enthusiastic individuals to bring Gwangju to the world. Feel free to contact us with your interest and your idea to get involved! Email us today to: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr and start getting involved!

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[GIC Talk Preview] GIC Talk Preview samples the discussion being had at this month’s GIC Talk. See the GIC Talk Schedule for more information.

Knowing Gwangju Through the May 18th Uprising Words by Mary Rose D. Sarturio and Mathew Jacob

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oth Mary Rose D. Sarturio and Mathew Jacob will soon be completing their international internships with the May 18 Memorial Foundation. Their presentation at the GIC will delve into their experiences working with the May 18 Memorial Foundation. These experiences include work undertaken by the foundation to commemorate the May 18 uprising, their understanding of the Gwangju Uprising and its meanings, and their interpretations of Gwangju via the May 18 Democratization Movement of 1980. Mary Rose used to work for a martial law museum in the Philippines under Bantayog ng mga Bayani, the Monument of Heroes Memorial Foundation. The museum honors heroes and martyrs who supposedly fought for truth, justice and freedom during a time of martial law in the Philippines. At Bantayog, Mary Rose was a museum guide, educating students about martial law history that had been previously distorted. Just like other young students, she had never encountered certain facts and stories while under martial law, including such human rights violations as mass killings, abductions, enforced disappearances and tortures, until she started her work with Bantayog. Mary Rose continued her quest for understanding state violence, trauma and rehabilitation in South Korea during her internship. Mary Rose will be sharing the research from her visits to non-governmental and governmental organizations across South Korea. Both the Philippines and South Korea have experienced forms of dictatorship involving brutal killings and torture. The suffering of human beings remains the same, but while in South Korea, Mary Rose has found that better social and political activism has played a constructive role in rebuilding the society.

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Mathew has been associated with the human rights movement in India and has written on various issues in South Asia. For him, Gwangju is an inspiration and a beacon of democracy. During his internship, Mathew set out to compile a book in English about the stories of those who were a part of the May 18 Uprising. In the course of his work he has discovered two passions. Firstly, Mathew has the need to tell people, both in Korea and outside the country, about the Korean democratization movements. He finds important information within it for sustaining democracy in any true sense. While there are many documents already written on these issues, most writing is more academic, which significantly limits potential readership. It is also important to have these details accessible to a larger audience and document the results in English. There have been significant literary efforts made in the past decades about the Korean democratization movements. However, they are confined to limited academic circles. Mathew wants to change this present reality. Secondly, Mathew has a need to share his stories and provide them to a broader audience. He will be sharing his experiences of becoming familiar with Gwangju and its uprising through her people, whom he considers heroes who have fought for democracy. Come support Mary Rose and Mathew as they conclude their services in Gwangju with this Special GIC Talk on Saturday, December 20, in the GIC Auditorium (Samho Center, 1st Floor).

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[GIC Talk Schedule] Are you a fan of TED Talks? Koreans and internationals gather weekly to hear and discuss a variety of presentations.

GIC Talk December Schedule Time & Location: Saturdays from 3 p.m. – 4 p.m., GIC Auditorium (Samho Center, 1st Floor) For more information, contact gictalk@gic.or.kr

“Ten-thousand tigers” by Ho Tzu Nyen

DECEMBER 6 Speaker: Max-Philip Aschenbrenner Currently an ACCT dramaturg (A professional theater expert researching and developing plays) Topic: ACCT (Asia Culture Complex Theater): A New Space for the International Contemporary Performing Arts in Gwangju Scheduled to open in September 2015, ACCT will produce and present international performing arts, with a strong emphasis on Asian artists. During the opening festival, 27 projects will center around the following two questions: What is Asia today? What are contemporary arts today? ACCT will not focus on finding answers to these questions, but will instead aim to perform them through a class of artistic visions coming together in Gwangju. How do artists in Jakarta, Bangkok, Chennai and Beijing, for example, see the world we live in today? What vision of common ground can be shared? Come to hear more about Max’s thoughts for this new space located in the Asian Culture Complex. DECEMBER 13 Speaker: Dinh Nu Ha My Currently a student at Chonnam National University Topic: The Vietnam War The Vietnam War was the longest war in United States history. Promises and commitments were

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made to the people and government of South Vietnam in an effort to keep communist forces from overtaking them. These promises started with the Harry S. Truman administration and involved five consecutive U.S. presidents. After Truman, Dwight D. Eisenhower placed military advisers and CIA operatives in Vietnam. John F. Kennedy sent American soldiers to Vietnam. Then, Lyndon B. Johnson ordered American troops to enter combat for the first time. Finally, Richard Nixon concluded the war. Despite the decades of unresolved conflict, billions of dollars, the cost of nearly 60,000 American lives and many more injuries, it is believed that the United States failed to achieve acceptable objectives. The legacy of bitterness has divided the American citizenry and influenced foreign policy into the 21st century. These and more topics will be presented at this GIC Talk. DECEMBER 20 Speakers: Mathew Jacob and Mary Rose D. Sarturio Currently interns at the May 18 Memorial Foundation Topic: Knowing Gwangju Through the May 18th Uprising See the GIC Preview article on the previous page for more information about this GIC Talk. DECEMBER 27 AND JANUARY 3 There will be no GIC Talks, due to the Holiday Season. Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Kwanzaa, Happy Boxing Day and Happy New Year! Thank you for supporting the GIC Talk Program throughout 2014. We look forward to seeing you at the next GIC Talk, starting on January 10.

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[National Pension Service]

Social Security Agreement for the U.K., Dutch and Spanish Nationals Foreigners 18-60 years old who are residing and working in Korea, regardless of their nationality, should be covered under the National Pension Service (NPS). Foreigners whose countries do not cover Korean nationals, however, are excluded from the coverage of NPS. Even so, if there are relevant provisions under the Social Security Agreement (SSA) between Korea and any foreign countries, those provisions will be applied. To protect the rights of foreigners, the SSA is publishing a series of articles spotlighting SSAs in cooperation with Gwangju News. This month’s featured SSA is for foreigners from Spain, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom.

THE U.K. AND THE NETHERLANDS SSA between Korea and the UK entered into force : August 2000 SSA between Korea and the Netherlands entered into force: October 2003 EXEMPTION FROM DUAL COVERAGE 1. In general, an employee is subject to the legislation of a contracting country in which he/she is employed. 2. Where an employee is employed in both countries for the same period, the person is subject to the legislation of a contracting country in which he/she ordinarily resides. 3. A self-employed person is subject to the legislation of a contracting country in which the person ordinarily resides. 4. A person employed in the territory of one contracting country, while self-employed in the territory of the other country for the same period, he/she is subject to the legislation of a contracting country in which he/she ordinarily resides. 5. A detached worker is exempt from coverage under the legislation of the contracting country which he/ she is sent to for less than 5 years if he/she is covered under the legislation of his/her home country. BENEFITS UNDER THIS AGREEMENT 1. Since the Convention on Social Security between Korea and (the U.K./ the Netherlands) is a Contributions-only Convention, there is no provision of totalization of periods of coverage for the entitlement to benefit. 2. Therefore, there are no pension benefits under the convention, whether the payment is granted depends on the each country’s legislation respectively. 3. And a Korean lump-sum refund is not paid to the nationals of (U.K./The Netherlands).

SPAIN SSA between Korea and Spain entered into force: April 2013 EXEMPTION FROM DUAL COVERAGE 1. In general, an employee is subject to the legislation of a contracting state in which he/she is employed. 2. In general, a self-employed person is subject to the legislation of the state in which he/she works. 3. A detached person is exempt from being subject to the legislation of the state which he/she is sent to for no more than 5 years if he/she is covered under the legislation of his/her home country. 4. Based on the mutual agreement between the two countries, those periods can be extended. 5. A person who is engaged in gainful activities in both contracting states is subject to the legislation of only the contracting state in which he/she ordinarily resides.

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BENEFITS UNDER THIS AGREEMENT Even though your periods of coverage in one country are not sufficient to qualify for pension benefits, you may be eligible for benefits after this Agreement has entered into force. This is possible due to totaling the coverage of both countries. KOREAN NATIONAL PENSION BENEFITS UNDER THE SSA 1. If you have no less than one year of period of coverage under the Korean national pension program but do not have enough periods of coverage (e.g., 20 years for Full Old-age pension) to qualify for pension benefits under the Korean national pension program, you may be able to qualify for Korean national pension benefits by totaling periods of coverage under the Korean and Spanish pension systems. However, these periods creditable under the Spanish pension system, must not coincide with those under the legislation of Korea. 2. Your benefit is calculated by dividing the Korean periods of coverage by the total periods of coverage and then multiplying by the benefits amount (theoretical benefit). The benefits amount (theoretical benefit) is calculated based on the total periods in both countries. SPANISH PENSION BENEFITS UNDER THE SSA 1. If you have no less than one year of period of coverage under the Spanish pension program but do not have enough periods of coverage to qualify for pension benefits under the Spanish pension system, you may be able to qualify for Spanish pension benefits by totalizing periods of coverage under the Korean and Spanish pension systems. However, these periods creditable under the Korean national pension program, must not coincide with those of under the legislation of Spain. 2. A national of either contracting country who resides in the other contracting country is treated equally with the national of the other contracting country in the application of the legislation of the other contracting country. 3. Despite the provisions on equal treatment, Korean lump-sum refunds are not granted to Spanish nationals based on the Agreement.

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Upcoming Events December 2014 Compiled by Lee Jeonghwa, Kim Hyunyoung, Han Jeongbong, Han Juyeon, and Yong Yurim

festivals

Boseong Tea Plantation Light Festival 보성차밭빛축제 Dahyanggak, Boseong-gun, South Jeolla December 12 - January 25, 2015 Green Tea Plantation Theme Street, Milky Way Tunnel of Love, Photo Zone, Light Street, Stairs of Pledge and Hanging Hope Card. Take a bus from the Gwangju Bus Terminal to the Boseong Bus Terminal (1.5 hours). Then, take the local bus for Gunhak at Boseong Bus Terminal and get off at Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation (0.5 hours). 061-850-5211~4 http://light.boseong.go.kr/index.boseong

Ttanggut (Land’s End) Sunset and Sunrise Festival 땅끝해넘이해맞이축제 Ttanggut Village, Haenam-gun, South Jeolla December 31 - January 1, 2015 Julgut Game, Farewell Concert, Torch Play, Disco Party, Wish Lantern-Flying, Ganggangsullae, etc. Take a bus from the Gwangju Bus Terminal to the Haenam Bus Terminal (2 hours). Then, take the local bus for Sagumi at Haenam Bus Terminal and get off at Ttanggut Village (2 hours). 061-532-1330 http://tour.haenam.go.kr/

Hyangilam Temple Sunrise Festival 향일암 일출제 Dolsan Impo Village Hyangilam, Yeosu-si, South Jeolla December 31 ~ January 1, 2015 The Sunrise Singing Contest, Orchestra, Candlelight Ceremony, New Year’s Countdown, Fireworks, Dance Festival, Samulnori, etc. Take a bus from the Gwangju Bus Terminal and get off at the Yeosu Bus Terminal (2 hours). Then, take the local bus no. 111 or 113 from the Yeosu Bus Terminal and get off at Impo, Hyangilam (2 hours). 061-659-4743~4745 http://www.ystour.kr/kr/festival/hyangilam.jsp

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exhibitions Special Exhibition <Gongjae Yun Du-seo> 특별전 <공재 윤두서> Gwangju National Museum October 27 - January 18, 2015 10 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. / Closed Mondays ₩ Admission: Free Take bus no. 29, 48, 63, 84, or 95 and get off at the Gwangju National Museum bus stop. 062-570-7000 http://gwangju.museum.go.kr/

Choi Woon-hyoung Exhibition <Pee On My Face> 최운형 개인전 Space K Gwangju November 13 - December 26 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. ₩ Free Take bus no. 12, 37, 200 or 217 and get off at the Shinsegae Department store bus stop. 062-370-5948 http://www.spacek.co.kr/

Gwangju Jeonnam Female Artists Association Exhibition <Pumda> 광주전남여성작가회 <품다>전 Gwangju Museum of Art- Sangnok Annex November 15 - December 14 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. / Closed Mondays ₩ Free Take bus no. 19, 36 or 72 and get off at the Sangnok Building bus stop, or take bus no. 1187 and get off at the Seo-gu Health Center bus stop. 062-613-7133 http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr

Senior Artist invitation Exhibition <Choi Jong-seob > 원로작가 초대전 <최종섭> Gwangju Museum of Art November 25 - February 8, 2015 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. / Closed Mondays Not noticed Take bus no. 64 or 83 and get off at the Gwangju Biennale bus stop, or take bus no. 83 and get off at the Gwangju Biennale Entrance bus stop. 062-613-7100 http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr Ha Jeong-woong Young Artist invitation Exhibition <The Light 2014> 하정웅 청년작가 초대전 <빛 2014> Gwangju Museum of Art November 27 - February 8, 2015 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. /Closed Mondays 500 won Take bus no. 64 or 83 and get off at the Gwangju Biennale bus stop. 062-613-7100 http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr

performances

AKMU CAMP in Gwangju 악동뮤지션 콘서트 – 광주 Kim Dae-jung Convention Center December 24 8 p.m. R Seats 88,000 won / S Seats 77,000 won Take bus no. 25, 38, 63, 64 or 518 and get off at Kim Dae-jung Convention Center bus stop. 1544-0412 http://ticket.interpark.com

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URBAN ZAKAPA CONCERT in Gwangju 2014 어반자카파 콘서트 – 광주 Venue: Kim Dae-jung Convention Center December 14 6 p.m. R Seats 99,000 won / S Seats 88,000 won / A Seats 66,000 Take bus no. 25, 38, 63, 64 or 518 and get off at Kim Dae-jung Convention Center bus stop. 1800-2575 http://ticket.interpark.com

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movies at Gwangju theater ₩

Chungjang-no 5-ga 62, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC WAVE) 8,000 won per person per film Bus no. 06, 07, 12, 45 74, or 170 get off at Gwangju Tax Office Bus Stop or 06, 07, 12, 45, 55, 59, or 74 get off at Chungjang Police Center Geumnam-ro 4 Ga Exit 2 062-224-5858 cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju

Mommy 마미 / Drama Director: Xavier Dolan Starring: Anne Dorval, Suzanne Clement Language: French Synopsis: A widowed mother has a very troubled and violent son.

Mood Indigo/ L’ecume des jours 무드 인디고 / Drama, Fantasy, Comedy Director: Michel Gondry Starring: Romain Duris, Audrey Tautou Language: French Synopsis: A rich man lives a very pleasant life.

Maps To The Stars 맵 투 더 스타 / R, Drama, Romance Director: David Cronenberg Starring: Julianne Moore, John Cusack, Robert Pattinson Language: English Synopsis: Two former child stars navigate the entertainment industry.

The Piano 피아노 / R, Drama/ Romance Director: Jane Campion Starring: Holly Hunter, Harvey Keitel, Anna Paquin Languages English, Maori Synopsis: Set during mid-nineteenth century New Zealand, this film tells the story of a mute piano player and her daughter.

EXHIBITION – GWANGJU THEATER AND MOVIE CHRONICLES Programs: Gwangju Theater Exhibition, Movie Screening China Town 차이나타운 / R, Drama/Mystery/Thriller

Raging Bull 성난황소 / R, Biography, Drama

Director: Roman Polanski Starring: Jack Nicholson, Faye Dunaway Language: English Synopsis: A private detective investigates an adulterer and finds himself in a more complex situation.

Director: Martin Scorsese Starring: Robert De Niro, Cathy Moriarty, Joe Pesci Language: English Synopsis: A boxer journeys through life.

Brief Encounter 밀회 / Romance/ Drama

Sweet Dream 미몽 / Drama

Director: David Lean Starring: Celia Johnson, Trevor Howard Language: English Synopsis: A woman is tempted to cheat on her husband after meeting a stranger at a railway station.

Director: Yang Joo-nam Starring: Jo Taek-won, Mun Ye-bong Language: Korean Synopsis: Produced in 1936. A wife of a middle-class man has no interest in looking after her family.

Sunset Blvd. 선셋대로 / Drama

The Housemaid 하녀 / Drama

Director: Billy Wilder Director: Kim Ki-young Starring: William Holden, Gloria Swanson Starring: Kim Jin-kyu, Ju Jeung-nyeo, Lee Eun-shim Language: English Language: Korean Synopsis: A silent film star has faded into Hollywood obscurity Synopsis: A young woman becomes involved in an illicit and dreams of a comeback. relationship while working for a middle-class couple.

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Community Board Have something you want to share with the community? Gwangju News community board provides a space for the community to announce clubs’ activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information. UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS UNESCO KONA Volunteers is a registered organization that helps underprivileged kids to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month (please check the days and locations below). Foreign volunteers who are interested in practicing their Korean and learning more about Korean culture with Korean children are welcome to stay at the center on any Saturday morning or Saturday evening for a short cultural exchange. If you have any picture books, storybooks, puppets and any educational items, we accept all donations in order to distribute them to the local children’s homes or community children’s centers in Gwangju and Jeonnam province. The days and locations of the facilities are as follows: 1. Every Saturday mornings / 10 a.m.-12 p.m. Every Saturday afternoons (evenings) 5-7 p.m. Location: UNESCO KONA Volunteers Center (Ssangchong-dong, Seogu, 062-434-9887) 2. 3rd Sunday afternoons / 3-5 p.m. 1) Location: Youngjin Children’s Home (Imgok-dong, Gwangsangu, 062-952-8040) 2) Location: Gwangju Children’s Home (Dongrim-dong, Bukgu, 062-513-0859) 3. 4th Friday afternoons 3-5 p.m. Location: Grandmother’s Community Children’s Center (Punghyang-dong, Bukgu, 062-524-2076) 4. 3rd Sunday mornings and afternoons/ 9 a.m.–2 p.m. (Lunch is provided) Location: Haein Temple (Jangseong, South Jeolla, 061-393-5135) For 1. 2. 3.

more infomation, please visit: http://cafe.daum.net/konavolunteers www.facebook.com (UNESCO KONA Volunteers) contact KONA (Kim Young-im) at 062-434-9887 or at konacenter@gmail.com

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GWANGJU ICE HOCKEY TEAM Looking for men and women of all ages to join us every Saturday night from 8:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. at Yeomju Ice Rink near World Cup Stadium. If you are interested, contact Andrew Dunne at atdunne@gmail.com GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, e-mail: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search ‘Gwangju Inter FC’ on Facebook. JOIN THE GWANGJU PERFORMANCE PROJECT CHOIR No experience is necessary and all are welcome. The choir will be learning and singing a wide variety of material, including pop, jazz, choral, and musical theater! The GPP Choir meets every Saturday from 12:30 - 2:30 p.m. on the second floor of the Gwangju International Center. For more information, visit our Facebook page or e-mail at gwangjuplayers@gmail.com GWANGJU MEDITATION CLASS Every Monday evening from 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. by Maria Lisak from September 1st to December 29th. Venue: GIC Office Participation fee: Free Please contact Gwangju Meditation Group on Facebook or Maria Lisak at gwangjumaria@yahoo.com for more information.

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