(EN) Gwangju News February 2017 #180

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I February 2017 Issue No.180

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Get Involved!

Gwangju & South Jeolla International Magazine

Join the GN Team

February 2017, Issue No. 180 Published: February 10, 2017 Cover Photo: by Lorryn Smit Cover Art & Design: Joe Wabe Gwangju News is the first local English magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise — without the written consent of the publisher.

Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center 5 Jungang-ro, 196 beon-gil (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702

Please contact our managing editor at gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for volunteering inquiries.

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors. @GwangjuNewsGIC

February 2017

Volunteering Inquiries and Feedback: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr Advertising and Subscription Inquiries: karina@gic.or.kr or 062-226-2733~34

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We have plenty of opportunities for writers, copy editors, photographers, web and blog editors as well as graphic artists and creators.

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PUBLISHER Dr. Gyonggu Shin EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Dr. David Shaffer MANAGING EDITORS Kelsey Rivers, Anastasia Traynin ONLINE EDITOR Nathan Fulkerson CREATIVE ADVISOR Joe Wabe COORDINATOR Karina Prananto LAYOUT EDITOR Karina Prananto PHOTO EDITOR Lorryn Smit CHIEF PROOFREADER Joey Nunez COPY EDITORS Brian Fitzroy, Eden Jones, Gabi Nygaard PROOFREADERS Monique Dean-Onyema, David La Boon, Ynell Lumantao-Mondragon, Paolo Mondragon, Boipelo Seswane RESEARCHERS Ahn Hyerang, Jang Jaehee, Park Chulhan, Yu Ri

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Contents

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

February 2017

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GWANGJU NEWS 04. Gwangju City News 05. Upcoming Events 07. Gwangju Theater Schedule 09. GIC Talk February Schedule COMMUNITY 10. Local Entrepreneurs: The Texture of Peculiar Meats 12. Lost in Gwangju: Songjeong Surprise – 1913 Songjeong Market 14. Live in Gwangju: Rocking in Gwangju with Wasted Johnnys 28. Sports: Rock Bowling 46. Expat Living: Internet Shopping

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FEATURE 16. Yi Mong-ryong and Sung Chunhyang: Korea’s Love Story EDUCATION 44. Four Weeks in Seoul: Short-Term Intensive Korean Language Courses 47. Talk to Me in Korean: Internet Shopping 48. KOTESOL: How to Bore Your Class to Death ARTS & CULTURE 19. Sunburn and the Afterlife (Sunstroked Out) 20. Picasso and Van Gogh Come to Gwangju 22. Photo Essay: The Cloud Bridge 26. Photos of the Month 43. Movie Review: The Client

TRAVEL 30. Insights of a Traveler: The First Trip 32. Around Korea: Old Seoul 38. Navruz: New Year of Uzbekistan 40. From Abroad: Reasons to Visit Central Asia – Follow Our Silk Road Journey FOOD & DRINKS 35. Korean Food: Know Which Is Which – Seolleongtang and Gomtang 36. Where to Eat: Afterworks OPINION 50. All You Need Is Love

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issue

#180 Letter from the Editor

W

e are officially one month into the New Year—how are you holding up on your resolutions for the year? I would share mine, but honestly I would be a little embarrassed that I stumbled so quickly out of the gate.

Speaking of New Year’s, we at Gwangju News hope you had a lovely Lunar New Year as well.

As online editor, I would first like to make a plug for the online edition of Gwangju News, always accessible at http://gwangjunewsgic. com, and give you a sneak peek of things to come.

First and foremost, the team has spent time archiving old columns and bringing the site’s categories into line with the latest iteration of the print edition. Second, expect a newer and better site design to debut this month. Gwangju News Online has changed very little since the site launched in 2012, so lastly, expect the new design to bring a much better mobile and tablet experience. This is vital: almost 50 percent of all website views come from a tablet or phone!

Nathan Fulkerson

Gwangju News Online Editor

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

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Gwangju City

News

Compiled by AHN Hyerang, YU Ri and PARK Chulhan

NTS Recommends Year-End Tax Adjustment to Foreign Workers The National Tax Service (NTS) has announced that foreigners who have earned income in Korea must file a yearend tax settlement regardless of their nationality or period of stay, just like South Korean workers.

The period and method of filing taxes for foreign workers will reportedly follow that of South Korean citizens, and like their Korean counterparts, foreign workers will receive tax refunds in early April.

Gwangju Love Thermometer Campaign Hits 4.4 Billion Won in Donations The Gwangju Community Chest of Korea has reportedly collected a total of 4.4 billion won in donations in its Love Thermometer Campaign to date, exceeding the organization’s target by 200 million won.

Those who are not fluent in Korean can visit the tax agency’s English web site or call the NTS’s Helpline.

Not only did donations surpass the group’s goal, but they have also exceeded last year’s collection by 880 million won.

February 2017

This puts the “temperature” on the Love Thermometer, located in downtown Gwangju, at more than 100 degrees Celsius.

The number of foreigners who completed year-end tax settlements stood at roughly 480,000 in 2013, 508,000 in 2014 and 544,000 in 2015.

Business donations made up some 51 percent of the entire amount, accounting for 2.2 billion won, with individual donations contributing a further 1.4 billion won.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

To help foreign nationals file their year-end settlement, the agency offers an “Easy Guide for Foreigners’ Year-end Tax Settlement” and related guidelines on its website.

Photo by Gwangju Daily News

The Biennale Foundation signed an agreement with the ACC Thursday to cooperate in the hosting of the upcoming international art event.

Next Gwangju Biennale to be held at ACC The next Gwangju Biennale is likely to be held at the Asia Culture Center.

Following the contract, the two organizations will work together on art-related international exchange and education programs and promotional activities.

In addition, the organizations reached a joint decision to relocate the event site as the previous exhibition hall, which was constructed in 1995 in Yongbong-dong, is now considered outdated.

Gwangju Biennale Foundation President Park Yang-woo stated the collaboration is expected to take advantage of the ACC’s established role in the art world to produce an event that reflects Gwangju as being a hub of Asian culture and art.

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Upcoming

L’exposition de photos - Eric Aupol

The work, node 5:5, is largely composed of video projection, kinetic laser, and modular wave field synthesis.

Ten moving lasers are reflected on a prism to illuminate the screen, and the orbit to which the light is directed is combined with the video image on the screen. This creates a dynamic spatial form, filling the composite one tube (18 meters high and 50 meters wide) along with the sound. In this space, the artists intend to convey the intention of the work, a “new synesthesia experience.”

Born in 1969 and based in Paris, Eric Aupol is known for his photography relating to places and spaces as markers of history and as mental configurations. The expanses of the landscape, the tightening of the private or collective habitats, the details of objects, bodies and faces are approached in the quest for a visual writing where the sensible and the intelligible would cease to oppose each other.

Dates: February 1, 2017 ~ March 26, 2017 Venue: Asia Culture Center Creation Space 1 Time: Tuesday ~ Friday: 10 am – 6 pm Wednesday: 10 am – 9 pm Saturday: 10 am – 7 pm Admission Fee: Creative exhibition package (Adults 7,000 won / Middle and High school students 5,000 won / Elementary school students 3,000 won) Telephone: 062-601-4555

Dates: January 9, 2017 ~ February 14, 2017 Venue: 2F, 217, Gyeongyeol-ro, Bukgu, Gwangju, Alliance Francaise de Gwangju Website: http://www.afgwangju.co.kr Telephone: 061-921-9906

February 2017

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node 5:5

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Dates: December 23, 2016 ~ February 28, 2017 Venue: Suncheon Bay National Garden West Garden Program: Opening Ceremony Fireworks Show, LED Castle Garden 3D Parashard Show, Lighting Show, Busking Performances, Indoor stalls, Hanging Lantern Experience Telephone: Suncheon City Hall National Garden Administration Division 061-749-2727

February

GWANGJU NEWS

Suncheon Bay National Garden Starlight Festival

Events

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Special Exhibition of the Cultural Heritage of Wando, Jeollanam-do This special exhibition is the third annual exhibition focused on the history and culture of the western Jeolla region, in a series that has in the past featured the Naju and Wolchul Mountain exhibitions. This exhibition is intended to recount the historical identity of Wando and promote the 2017 Wando International Seaweed Expo.

Dates: November 22, 2016 ~ February 19, 2017 Venue: 747 Gobun-ro, Bannam-myeon, Naju-si, Jeollanam-do, Naju National Museum Admission Fee: Free Website: http://naju.museum.go.kr Telephone: 061-330-7800

Historical Porcelains of the Joseon Dynasty The National Museum of Gwangju will host a special exhibition concerning Jeggi (traditional porcelains for ancestral rites) from the Joseon Dynasty.

These porcelains were considered to be quite meaningful in terms of Confucianism, which influenced the period’s social norms. The museum will premiere collections of early- and late-stage Joseon Dynasty porcelains, as well as the Buncheong Jeggi discovered at the Buncheong Kiln Site in Gwangju in 1991.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

Dates: December 6, 2016 ~ April 2, 2017 Venue: 110, Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju, National Museum of Gwangju Time: 9 am – 6 pm Admission Fee: Free Telephone: 062-570-7000

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Hello Van Gogh, Gwangju The exhibition showcases the artwork of Vincent Van Gogh through the use of sensuous lighting and video technology of HD projectors. The work of Gogh and Monet, the major painters who led impressionism in the late 19th century, are reinterpreted by motion graphic and IT media.

Dates: December 9, 2016 ~ March 5, 2017 Venue: 316-1, Im-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju Time: 10 am – 6 pm Admission Fee: Adults 13,000 won, Students 10,000 won, Children 8,000 won Telephone: 062-524-9377

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GWANGJU THEATER Chungjang-no 5-ga 62, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC WAVE) TICKETS: 8,000 won INFORMATION: 062-224-5858

Personal Shopper

매기스 플랜

Genres: Comedy, Drama, Romance Director: Rebecca Miller Time Length: 98 minutes Starring: Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke, Julianne Moore Maggie wants to have a baby and raise it on her own, but when she gets romantically involved with John, a married man, things get complicated and the balance of Maggie’s plans may collapse.

Jackie

재키

Genres: Biography, Drama Director: Pablo Larrain Time Length: 100 minutes Starring: Natalie Portman, Peter Sarsgaard, Greta Gerwig Following the assassination of President John F. Kennedy, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy fights through grief and trauma to regain her faith, console her children, and define her husband’s historic legacy.

Try to Remember

다방의 푸른 꿈

Arrival

컨택트

Genre: Drama Director: Kenneth Lonergan Time Length: 137 minutes Starring: Casey Affleck, Michelle Williams, Kyle Chandler An uncle is asked to take care of his teenage nephew after the boy’s father dies.

Moonlight

The Reader

더 리더: 책 읽어주는 남자

Genres: Drama, Romance Director: Stephen Daldry Time Length: 124 minutes Starring: Kate Winslet, Ralph Fiennes, Bruno Ganz A re-release of the movie The Reader (2008). Post-WWII Germany: Nearly a decade after his affair with an older woman came to a mysterious end, law student Michael Berg re-encounters his former lover as she defends herself in a war-crime trial.

For the full February movie calendar please visit: cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju

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문라이트

Genre: Drama Director: Barry Jenkins Time Length: 111 minutes Starring: Mahershala Ali, Shariff Earp, Duan Sanderson A timeless story of human self-discovery and connection, Moonlight chronicles the life of a young black man from childhood to adulthood as he struggles to find his place in the world while growing up in a rough neighborhood of Miami.

February 2017

Genres: Drama, Mystery, Sci-Fi Director: Denis Villeneuve Time Length: 116 minutes Starring: Amy Adams, Jeremy Renner, Forest Whitaker When 12 mysterious spacecraft appear around the world, linguistics professor Louise Banks is tasked with interpreting the language of the apparent alien visitors.

Manchester by the Sea 맨체스터 바이 더 씨

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Genre: Documentary Director: Kim Dae-hyeon Time Length: 73 minutes Starring: Kim Minja, Kim Sisters, Lee Nanyeong, Kim Haesong, Son Seoku, Tommy Vig Min-ja of the “Kim Sisters” is still working as a singer in Budapest, Hungary. The audience can meet the three shy girls who fluently sang songs in English without even knowing the language through the memories of Min-ja in the film.

퍼스널 쇼퍼

Genres: Drama, Mystery, Thriller Director: Olivier Assayas Time Length: 105 minutes Starring: Kristen Stewart, Lars Eidinger, Sigrid Bouaziz This film revolves around a ghost story that takes place in the fashion underworld of Paris.

GWANGJU NEWS

Maggie’s Plan

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February 2017

COMMUNITY

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February Schedule The monthly GIC Talk will showcase talks from speakers who would like to share their areas of expertise with the GIC Talk audience, with new topics throughout 2017.

Time & Location: Saturdays from 4 - 5 p.m., GIC Auditorium (1st Floor) For more information and for a GIC Talk application, contact gictalk@gic.or.kr

::February 4

Speaker: Camellia Sodki Topic: The Secret of Being Multilingual

:: February 11

Speaker: Mohamed Fawzy Topic: Mohamed Fawzy and his Art

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Speaker: Emmanuel Ntegamaherezo Topic: A Brief History of Rwanda and Rwandan Culture Rwanda is located in central Africa and suffered a genocide in 1994 against the Tutsi people. Genocide devastated the country. Rwandans killed their fellow Rwandans and more than a million people were murdered. By the time it ended, in July 1994, there was almost nothing left of the country. Between then and the present day, the country has registered miraculous developments in all sectors of life, including the economy, education, health, infrastructure, and politics. Listen to Emmanuel, PhD student at CNU, give his insight into the history of his country.

::February 25

Speaker: Kim Sungho Topic: The Benefits of Water Water; we all know that it constitutes 70 percent of our bodies, but… How can we drink water? When? How much should we really drink? What diet should we have to keep hydrated? All of these questions can be answered by Dr. Kim Sung-ho, an expert on hydration who will share with us the secrets of water to keep from getting sick.

February 2017

Mohamed Fawzi, also known as “Motopia,” a multi-talented artist from Egypt, will have a GIC Talk and share his experiences in art. He has been working with children all over the world and has done over 50 solo exhibitions.

His art is flexible, fun, intriguing, and full of imagination. His work ranges from ink and paper to illustrated books. Fawzy is based in Gimje, Jeollabuk-do and wishes to share his knowledge and art with the Gwangju Community. Come and meet Mohamed, and participate in his hands-on GIC Talk.

::February 18

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Our world is shaped in a way that language proficiency has become either an asset or a liability. It can boost your career or create new opportunities for you as well as draw you back. Today more than ever, being multilingual has become a necessary skill that many of us have yet to realize. Mastering a language is not just about vocabulary and grammar; it entails many other variables such as culture and history... so how do people do it? Either from home or through traveling, learning a language is not easy, so what is the secret to becoming multilingual?

Deep gashes delivered by the killers are visible in the skulls that fill one room at the Murambi School – the aftermath of Rwandan genocide.

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COMMUNITY

10 LOCAL ENTREPRENEURS

The Texture of Peculiar Meats

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February 2017

Words By Peter Gallo

“A

ll-in-all, it’s a pretty boring story of one guy who has a hobby and is the province’s crazy cat lady.” These are the humble words of JD Gold, the founder of both Peculiar Meats and the Damyang Project. Gold’s hobby is making sausages, hams, and other meat products for a select number of customers in the Gwangju area. The Damyang Project is a service that provides for the local homeless cat population. The

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▲

Photo Courtesy of JD Gold

only thing peculiar about the meat is Gold’s traditional, distinctly foreign approach to the processing and other aspects.

Gold is an “American semi-retired Science and Math teacher from the state of New Jersey.” He worked in Japan for a year but did not like the school system there, so he took a job in Korea. Gold delivers his locally famous, home-made meat products to

Gwangju, which is the nearest city to Damyang, where the meat-processing kitchen is.

“I manage to do only one to two batches of meat a week, and only deliver to Gwangju once or twice a month.

Making sausage (and other processed meats) is extremely labor-intensive, so a single batch of say, meatballs, will take between four to five hours of processing,” says Gold.

JD Gold (front, in white), Founder of Peculiar Meats and Damyang Project, is seen here with the local Damyang Filipino basketball team that he sponsors.

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11 Gold has been making his own meats for most of his life. About five years ago, he decided to start doing it here in Korea. “Let me tell you a long story,” Gold says. “Simply put, about five years ago, I got tired of never having my “comfort foods” (meatballs, sausage, etc.), since the Korean versions of these things were terrible and seasoned in ways that just tasted wrong.

So, I decided to bring back a grinder from one of my trips home.”

Since Gold processes his own sausage, this allows him to get the texture just right. “My family comes from farm stock and have always made our own meat,” he says.

Once Gold got the texture and the seasoning right, he then started making meat for himself about once a month. Nowadays, demand from the community has increased, so he makes sausages up to twice a week.

Gold offers his products for what he claims are more than fair prices. “Ask around and check meat prices,” Gold explains. “Folks will tell you that the finished product is comparable to US products, and the pricing is much cheaper than store-bought.”

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“All my meats come from either the Nonghyup meat collective or from a local butchery, bought in bulk and cryovaced or vacuum-packed,” Gold says. “My customers are anyone who is interested when I post on the Gwangju pages. I tell folks what I have and when I will be coming into the city. I do not use delivery services.” He never uses preservatives, except for the home-made hams. Gold explains, “Hams actually need a type of salt that acts as a preservative. You can’t have one without the other, like bacon.”

Gold is precise about his packaging.

He comments, “Except for meatballs and sausage patties, all meat is sold in bulk packs of 500 grams weighing one to three kilograms.” Because of restric-

Free sausage alert! Aspiring customers may receive samples of new recipes by being in the right place at the right time, mainly by hanging out at First Alleyway in Gwangju while Gold is meeting up to make deliveries.

One should note that there is no connection to any other Peculiar Meats companies which may exist by the same name. For updated information about the cats and kittens, contact Gold by personal message on Facebook or see the profile for The Damyang Project.

February 2017

“Nowadays, demand from the community has increased, so he makes sausages up to twice a week.

Gold offers his products for what he claims are more than fair prices.”

Gold was “born and raised back when most families still hunted and fished for fun and additional food.” Since Gold’s family did not have much money while he was growing up, the boys were encouraged to hunt and fish, not only for fun, but to literally “bring home the bacon.”

tions on imported meat products, he is not able to get the type of intestines needed to make link sausage. Recent posts on Facebook by Peculiar Meats offered Christmas Hams. Gold explains, “At this time, I regularly make breakfast sausage, Italian sausage, Italian meatballs, Philippine Longanisa, Apple cinnamon, and pepper hams (in season). I am currently trying to find a good recipe for chicken sausages that works well in artificial casings, but no luck so far.” www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Gold describes his efforts as “seminon-profit” because all the proceeds are donated to a charity that he founded, called The Damyang Project. It finds homes for cats and provides neutering/spaying of the feral cat population.

The main expenses of the charity come from veterinary services. I asked Gold to describe his sausages. He responded, “[In Korea] the textures are more reminiscent of finely-ground German bratwursts, so I make mine more in keep-

ing with traditional mid-western (USA) meat styles.”

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COMMUNITY

12 LOST IN GWANGJU

Songjeong Surprise:

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February 2017

1913 Songjeong Market Words by Rachel Johnstone Photos by Kelsey Rivers and Kim Jin-young

I

n Gwangju, Songjeong is a short street with a long history. The vibe is mellow; the people move at a slower pace. Couples pause to take selfies, and parents gather children and grandchildren together for one last photo.

Independent coffee shops, mom-and-pop restaurants, and specialty stores settle against each other.

Originally started in 1913 as the Songjeong Yeokjeon Maeil Market, the 170-meter-long street has acted as Songjeong’s market for the past 100 years. In recent times, however, the market began to close up as people left. Then in 2015, things began to change when the Gwangju Cent-

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er for Creative Economy and Innovation, and Hyundai Card, saw potential in the little market.

The 1913 Songjeong Market does not have the history of Yangdong nor the location of Daein, and unlike more well-known Gwangju markets, the 1913 Market is openair. There is a collection of coffee shops, restaurants, food stores, and a pub, but no roof covers the street. Many of the businesses have been there for years, while others are recent arrivals.

For many in Gwangju, the market is relatively unknown.

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Brew Pub near the center of the market offers craft beers and pub food.

A couple coffee shops dot the street. One, the 1913 Café, has a large window to people-watch from, while another, Mimi’s Bagels, offers rice-based bagels and ricotta cheese spread.

Acting as an outdoor waiting area for the KTX, the market has a schedule board for the KTX halfway down the street. With plenty of places to stop and eat, it is a good meeting area for those coming and going on the train.

To arrive at the 1913 Market, the easiest way is to take the subway to the Gwangju Songjeong stop (two beyond the airport) and take Exit 2. At the top of the stairs, turn left, walk back to the intersection, and turn right. Follow the people, for many of them are entering the market.

When asked about the market, most did not know about it, or responded with, “I have heard about it, but I have not been there.” Even those who live in Songjeong have yet to rediscover the market.

Walking down the street, a line of people forms outside Ttoa Bread, known for its delicious loaves. Sometimes the line is short; other times, it winds down towards the center of the market. Get there early for the famous bread, or miss out.

Walking back to the entrance, on the left is Hankki Ramen, specializing in ramen from different countries. If kimchi and ramen are not your thing, the Wheat Field

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February 2017

On the far end of the market is a place selling street food with pork, vegetables, and kimchi wrapped in bacon. It comes in two versions, spicy and mild. The spicy one hits the back of the mouth, whereas the mild has a sweet barbeque-style sauce. Both are tasty!

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

“My children have brought food home from there, but I have not gone yet,” one woman from Songjeong said in a coffee shop across from the market’s entrance. “They said it is nice.”

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COMMUNITY

14 LIVE IN GWANGJU

Rocking in Gwangju with Wasted Johnnys

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

Words by Kelsey Rivers Photos courtesy of Wasted Johnnys

D

oIndie, a bilingual webzine dedicated to supporting and spreading the word about independent Korean music, is at it again, bringing a small slice of the thriving music scene in Seoul south to Gwangju.

Previously, DoIndie had organized a show at Speakeasy featuring the indie bands Rough Cuts, 57, and Nametag way back in September. In further efforts to bring alternative music to venues outside of Seoul, another live show is slated for February 18, featuring Wasted Johnnys.

Wasted Johnnys is a band based in Seoul that describes itself as being a “strong cocktail of blues-based rock and roll with a grunge grit.” The members are Angie, the vocalist and a guitarist, Kim Young-jin on drums, the guitarist Baek Seon-hyuk, and the bassist Chung Yoon-gyum. Gwangju News was able to speak briefly with Angie

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about the music scene, both in Seoul and Gwangju.

How did you all come together to make Wasted Johnnys?

We used to be a three-piece band, with Nills Germain, Kim Young-jin, and myself, for about four years. We decided to add one more guitar position, Seon-hyuk, last year. However, we switched members last autumn, when our bassist changed due to problems with Nills’ school.

We met Yoon-gyum as a replacement, and now we are ready to go!

How did you first get interested in rock music, and how is the Korean rock music scene developing these days?

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15 joy seeing rock band gigs, and that is what makes me frustrated.

Personally, it is true that no scenes are larger than those in Hongdae, and it is also a fact that even Hongdae is now suffering from many problems. We have lost too many live clubs because of economic difficulties. I know some friends that talk about their poor local environment. I fully understand, but I also think that we can make better solutions by using our local environment and talents’ unique color and characteristics. I believe there are many good event managers who have their own brilliant ideas about supporting band music, and we have lots of bands who would take to the stage as well.

Neighborhoods can easily ignore certain aspects of the local culture, such as music or the lives of band members. But think, it should be the opposite! Local bands completely have the potential to be an icon for their home or neighborhood, unless we give up. Let’s not be frustrated, and make our dreams come true. Wasted Johnnys is always ready to rock with you.

What is it like to play in Gwangju and other cities, and what is your favorite part about playing at a show?

I liked to listen to many bands through YouTube when I was in middle school, and I used to collect the CDs of my favorite groups. I began playing in a band, and I never stopped playing even in high school. I thought it was quite natural for me. Also, I am originally from Busan, and I had a lot of chances to look around and experience rock clubs. I always dreamed of making my own band, and so it is no coincidence that we gathered to form Wasted Johnnys.

What do you think of the Gwangju music scene and other scenes outside of Seoul?

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February 2017

Actually, we want to ask this question to you! We only know two or more bands in Gwangju, and we are not familiar with the scene as of yet. And moreover, this is our first gig in Gwangju, too. However, we do not get too nervous about going to new places, but gain confidence and feel refreshed instead. I recall that our gigs in Daegu or Busan were cool, but I felt that there were relatively fewer people than in Seoul (especially Hongdae) who en-

For more information about the February 18 show, check out the event page at “Speakeasy Gwangju” on Facebook.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The rock scene these days seems to be pretty minor, or familiar only to a small group of listeners, but despite this we still have many talented and fascinating bands in Korea. There are many good people involved in bands, clubs, and as listeners. I do not think they will stop maintaining this scene, but continue to help it grow and develop.

It is a little bit hard to move around to other cities (like when we are on tour), but it is okay. We make new friends at the places that we have never been to before.

I love my shows though; going into madness. I like the moment when I share these feelings with my fellow band members, and the audience. It is very strange that I cannot stop singing and playing guitar, even when everybody goes crazy on the stage.

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FEATURE

16

Yi Mong-ryong and Sung Chun-hyang: Korea’s Love Story

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

Words by Joey Nunez photos by Lorryn Smit

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T

he nations collectively celebrate love on February 14.

When thinking about love, Koreans admire the poetic saga of Yi Mong-ryong and Sung Chun-hyang, both on February 14 and eternally.

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A woman named Wolmae was dissatisfied with her lower-class status in Namwon, Jeollabuk-do. Aching to be more than just a gisaeng (Korean

Fast-forwarding 16 years, Mong-ryong, the son of a district magistrate, was leisurely walking when he spotted Chun-hyang on a swing. Mong-ryong became Korea’s love-story hero at first sight. However, unlike how a man typically approaches a woman to express his love nowadays, Mongryong arranged for Pang-ja, his male servant, to set-up a meeting with Chun-hyang. The pair met officially at the Gwanghallu Pavilion, even though Chun-hyang hesitated.

Mong-ryong demonstrated a chivalrous move by seeking Wolmae’s

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Before sharing about Mong-ryong and Chun-hyang, an explanation of the story’s context is key for full understanding of how this love story overcame so many obstacles and still exists in the first place. What love Mong-ryong initially demonstrated towards Chun-hyang was unheard of and frowned upon during those times. When a higher social class member wanted to associate with

Korea’s Confucian class system established order so the country could prosper within boundaries. But love powerfully transcends social classes, demonstrating that traditional origins, while valuable, sometimes need to be modified. Do you agree that love should always win, not any system? Valentine’s Day enthusiasts would, and the same Korean enthusiasts do too, as evidenced by the fact that this story remains an integral part of Korean history. And while this love story currently has multiple adaptations as films, plays, and movies, the story’s premise remains loyal as the words that follow here.

term for a female singer/entertainer), Wolmae sought after a civil minister, they fell in love with each other, and he took her as his second wife.

It seems only fitting that this mother should bear the daughter, who was named Chun-hyang (Korean name meaning “scent of spring”), who became Korea’s love-story heroine.

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This love story originates in the form of pansori, a type of song-demonstrated and percussion-driven musical storytelling. This love story developed its prose roots during the reign of King Sukjong (1674-1720) and King Yeongjo (1724-1776).

a lower social class member to the point of marriage, the higher social class member became lower in status.

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February 2017

▲

Gwanghallu Garden in Namwon, Jeollabuk-do is famous as the place where Chun-hyang and Mong-ryong first met.

permission to marry Chun-hyang.

Knowing that this move would provide Chun-hyang with even better opportunities than she herself had obtained, Wolmae approved. Unlike in the story of Jacob and Rachel in the Bible, where Jacob had to work fourteen years to marry his love, Mong-ryong obtained Chun-hyang’s hand in marriage just after he passed the civil service exam. It was during their courtship and Mong-ryong’s studying when Chun-hyang fell in love with Mong-ryong, and the pair lived happily and peacefully in close proximity, but only for a short time.

Mong-ryong’s father received a career position, requiring his entire family to relocate from Namwon to Seoul. Sadly, Mong-ryong’s father did not value his son’s choice of marrying a daughter of a female singer. The two lovers were forced to separate, but Mong-ryong promised that he would pass his exams, earn a respectable title, and return to marry Chun-hyang with dignity.

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Unlike the Yi family, Byeon Hak-do, the new magistrate in Namwon, later demonstrated his selfish and devious ways by controlling the population. He even wanted the pleasure of having Chun-hyang for himself. Remaining loyal to Mong-ryong, Chunhyang refused Hak-do’s unwanted advances, but Chun-hyang suffered when Hak-do allowed her to be both tortured and imprisoned for months.

Mong-ryong passed his test and returned as promised with a respectful title as a secret royal inspector. Naturally, Mong-ryong was not pleased to hear what was happening in his hometown, and justifiably, he was outraged to hear how his bride was being mistreated. Using his position to his benefit, Mong-ryong returned disguised as a homeless wanderer and approached Chun-hyang as she was near death in prison. She did not recognize his disguise or intentions, but as Mong-ryong approached and expressed his love to Chun-hyang, she remained loyal in saying that she had only one true love. In this mo-

ment, Mong-ryong discovered for himself how Chun-hyang had remained pure and faithful to him. He then revealed his true identity to her, and the two lovers embraced and rejoiced together.

Mong-ryong saved the day by ousting Hak-do from his position for his wrongdoings and freeing multiple political prisoners before Mong-ryong officially married Chun-hyang in Namwon and took her back to Seoul.

Upon returning, the king provided Mong-ryong a promotion. In the end, Mong-ryong and Chun-hyang continued Korea’s love story uninterrupted in Seoul for the rest of their days together.

Korea is pleased to share its love story with the nations. Everyone can learn not only how Yi Mong-ryong and Sung Chun-hyang loved each other and won, but also be inspired by such a beautiful example where love conquered.

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Sunburn and the Afterlife (Sunstroked Out) Words by Peter Gallo Photo by Lorryn Smit

his is the exception. It’s gonna be difficult. It’s gonna be painful.

Please let me know when you find the exact right place you want to go. This morning I’d just like to focus on the exact right position that I want to sleep in.

We’ll be leaving this place soon. Leaving all our security and tidiness behind. Setting sail for the Old World. To see if there’s anything left there for us. To see if we left anything behind.

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Everywhere I go, there’ll be chickens, there’ll be days like this. There’ll be words and writing. But more so, there’ll be mountains to climb and wilderness to explore.

Break me up and I’m out of it. My daily routine. Drag me into the mountains.

Where you never know. There might be a mountain lion or two to take me out. This could be my last dash. My last attempt at survival. When I left, I thought I was gone, but I ended up right back where I started.

So many years ago, now. The first double rainbow. The first rocky mountain. The first time I saw the sky!

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But I can’t help looking back in time and seeing faces that I loved once. Faces that left me behind. So hear me out. Listen to my tale. Of the one that got away. A slippery fish that tried to take me away from my home.

A hearty meal for the road. One more cup of coffee, and I’m gone. I’m off again. This time for keeps. www.gwangjunewsgic.com

But alas, I’m in the wrong bed. And it’s already 5:30 anyways, so I probably won’t be able to get back to sleep.

The dog won’t get out of the room. He’s attached to the bit of floor here in the forbidden bedroom. And last time I dragged him out he peed on the floor.

I wouldn’t go, and I got left alone here in this town. Where, I swear, I thought I’d drown. Finally launched myself out after getting so caught up. In a web. A web of lies. Entangling me and a scene. So there’s a hot soup for this morning’s breakfast.

ARTS ARTS && CULTURE CULTURE

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ARTS & CULTURE

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Picasso and Van Gogh Come to Gwangju

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February 2017

Words by Bridgette Britton Photos Provided by the GIC

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icasso and Van Gogh, bulls and broads, sunflowers and sadness. Names and images nearly everyone recognizes — artists known for vastly different styles — who have marked modern art history with their own unique flair.

In Gwangju, two shows touch on the timeless history of both men. Picasso and His Passions, showing at the Kim Daejung Convention Center through February 18, focuses on Picasso’s lesser-known prints and pottery.

Hello, Van Gogh, at the KIA Cham-

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pion Field Gallery through March 6, emphasizes Van Gogh’s relationship with other Impressionists.

“I begin with an idea and then it becomes something else.” Pablo Picasso Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) is best known for Cubism, but he was also a prolific potter, printer, and stage designer. The artwork on display includes many works, most of which are not as well known. The front

piece of the exhibit is the collection of paintings and prints Picasso made about bullfighting. The stark blackand-white images capture the brutality and vitality of the spectacle.

Some of the more interesting pieces are those Picasso based on two stories: La Celestine and Carmen. Both of the series show Picasso’s versions of the stories. For La Celestine especially, his images do not always coincide with the story but often diverge into his own interpretation.

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◀ Starry Night Over the Rhone [Van Gogh] ▼ Ceramic arts by Picasso

Lastly, Le Tricorne is a series of costume designs for the Ballets Russes production of Le Tricorne (El sombrero de Tres Picos or The ThreeCornered Hat). Scattered throughout the show are pieces of Picasso’s pottery. Often rough and bold, the plates, bowls, and pitchers capture the mood of the man, his world, and many loves.

“There is no blue without yellow and without orange.”

Vincent van Gogh

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One of the highlights of the show, however, is the reproduction of Van Gogh’s bedroom in Arles. Guests can enter the room for a photo-op in Van Gogh’s painting. Visitors can take photos from the position where Van Gogh would have painted the room or through a glass providing another angle.

Both shows are quite interesting in their own ways. Hello, Van Gogh is a wonderful afternoon trip for families, while Picasso and His Passions

is better savored slowly. Both shows provide activities for children to explore the worlds of the two painters.

It is best to call ahead for Hello, Van Gogh to make certain it is open.

For non-Korean speakers, Hello, Van Gogh and Picasso and His Passions have most of their information in Korean and English. Prices for Hello, Van Gogh range from 8,000 to 13,000 won. Picasso and His Passions range from 10,000 to 15,000 won. Tickets can be purchased at both locations.

February 2017

Unlike Picasso’s show, Hello, Van Gogh is a collection of prints of the artist’s more recognizable paintings and those from other popular Impressionist painters. Several of the larger pieces are video images of the paintings that have been remastered and animated. One can see the clouds passing over Two Women in the Moor; lights twinkle in Starry Night over the Rhone. Van Gogh watches and blinks from his many self-portraits.

▲ Night Fishing at Antibes [Picasso]

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Most people know Vincent Van Gogh (1853-1890) for Starry Night, but the artist was prolific. According to the man himself, “I’ve just kept on ceaselessly painting in order to learn painting.”

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ureumdari Footbridge, also known as the Cloud Bridge, is located in Wolchulsan National Park. The park is just outside the little city of Yeongam in Jeollanam-do. The Cloud Bridge is just one of the many sites to see within the park.

There are also temples, waterfalls, and many trails to choose from that lead to various peaks; Cheonhwangbong Peak being the highest, sitting at 809 meters.

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February 2017

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Photo Essay

The Cloud Bridge Words and photos by Ellin Hale

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We started up together with the other group, putting down the first footprints into the soft, snowy trail. Soon, we separated from them as Dong-jin and I were engrossed in taking photographs of the beautiful scenery. The trail was actually not bad at all and soon other hikers started to appear behind us. Reaching the bridge was a trek — especially climbing up all the stairs — but when we finally arrived,

the view was amazing. Shouts of excitement from the other hikers echoed to the ones far below the bridge that lies 120 meters up, connecting two mountain peaks. My first steps on the bridge felt a bit weird because I could feel it shifting at every step the other hikers took. It was quite an interesting feeling. Dong-jin and I enjoyed the view for as long as we could in the snowfall, but then the cold wind arrived, encouraging us to head back.

In just two hours up and an hour back down, we were able to complete our journey to Cloud Bridge. Though this is only the second national park I have been to in South Korea, I think it will always be my favorite, as well as the most memorable, because of the adventure it turned out to be. I know we will be back again to conquer Cheonhwangbong Peak and to see the numerous other sites that Wolchulsan has to offer.

February 2017

As the driver dropped us off at the Cheonhwangsa parking lot entrance and waved goodbye with a rather concerned look on his face, he wished

us luck and advised that if at any time we felt that the trail was too dangerous, we should turn around immediately. I considered his words carefully, but I am a rather stubborn person.

On the walk up to the start of the trail, it seemed like we were the only crazy ones out hiking this early in the morning, and in the middle of a little snowstorm no less. Soon enough, however, we met a large group of hikers who seemed both eager, and also like us, a bit worried of what the hike ahead of us would hold. Nonetheless, the trek to the bridge began.

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So, on the snowy morning of January 14, Kim Dong-jin and I set out for Wolchulsan National Park at the rather brisk hour of seven o’clock from the U-square Bus Terminal.

After about an hour and twenty minutes of travel, we arrived at the quaint little bus terminal in Yeongam. We had time to relax before heading out to the park because our next bus was not leaving until nine. At the convenience store, we picked up some light snacks to bring with us and enjoyed the warmth inside. When the time finally came to board the other bus, we had begun to feel a bit skeptical about the adventure ahead of us. The weather did not look to be the best for hiking, but we were not going to turn around so easily, so, we got inside and hoped for the best on the short ride from the terminal.

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Photos of the Month Words by Lorryn Smit

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

ARTS & CULTURE

“Be around the light bringers, the magic makers, the world shifters, the game shakers. They challenge you, break you open, uplift and expand you. They don’t let you play small with your life. These heartbeats are your people. These people are your tribe.”

— Anonymous

W

inter is a quiet season in the photography world. Everyone goes into hibernation, and so the work coming in is few. However, this means we are able to create some personal work. On this day, I ventured out to Damyang with two other creators: a hanbok designer and a dancer. It was a beautiful day with two of my own magic makers who let me shine through their craft. This will be one of my favorite pictures for years to come, not because it’s a good picture, but because it was a wonderful day spent making magic together.

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▲ Photo by Abhishek Sahu ▶ Photo by Lorryn Smit

Gwangju News is now going to feature a few photos of the month, instead of only one, on a regular basis. By making this change, we hope to create more opportunities to promote more photographers based in the Jeollanam-do region and to show off our beautiful province from different areas and angles. Submissions can be posted in the “Photography in the South” Facebook group throughout the preceding month.

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COMMUNITY

28 SPORTS

Rock Bowling

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February 2017

Words by Rachel Johnstone Photos by Lorryn Smit

I

f you have ever woken up and fancied a beer and a spot of bowling, then Korean rock bowling might be right up your alley. While having a pint while you bowl may not seem particularly revolutionary, this Korean-style of bowling really makes you question why it has not caught on yet back home. That is to say, rock

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bowling is more like being at a club than at your regular bowling alley.

The origin of the name is unclear and may just be an example of Konglish, considering neither “rock” nor “bowling” in the given context has a direct translation in Korean. One can only assume it comes from “rock

and roll” and therefore to “party,” and given the atmosphere, this certainly makes sense.

In a nutshell, what you should expect from a night of rock bowling is music, beer, and bowling (granted, the last factor should not come as a surprise). And for those who think

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29 this sounds like an odd mix, it is not such a terrible combination. I believe it to be a solid start to any Friday or Saturday night, certainly if you plan to continue drinking into the early hours downtown.

If you find yourself craving a rock bowling session, then I highly recommend Sangmu’s Kingpin bowling alley, which is fairly simple to find, even if you do not know the area well.

Walking away from Sangmu subway station with the King Sejong Outlet behind you, walk until you hit the Ramada Hotel on your right-hand side. Remain on the main road with the Ramada on your right and walk a block. Turn right and a rather large bowling pin will appear in the skyline, and there you will find the entrance to Kingpin. Bowling is in the basement, and as you descend, the decibels increase until you are met with a room so dark and so edgy you might forget you are in Gwangju. It reminded me of a bar I would go to in London. There was a live DJ play-

ing decent music and willing to take requests in perfect English (although he did lack any music from the UK grime scene), comfortable sofas while we waited to be assigned a lane, friendly bar staff serving a good selection of beer, a darts board, and some arcade games.

I arrived between 8:30 and 9 p.m. on a Saturday and had to wait perhaps 20 minutes before there was a bowling lane available. While we waited, we made the most of the bar activities provided and got a beer. Compared to the bars in downtown Gwangju that foreigners frequent, the price of drinks was slightly higher, around 6,000 won for one beer. Personally, this did not offend me so much, as it was what I was expecting, considering the style and general feel of Kingpin, and if I am being totally honest, it is what I would expect to pay in the U.K. if I went drinking at a popular club/bowling alley (if one existed), so no harm done.

We played two games (the total we were permitted to play, as it was a popular alleyway with people waiting for their own turns), but this was more than enough. Rock bowling cost 10,000 won each (excluding alcohol), a very reasonable price, I believe, and considering the time, day and location, I was surprised it was not more. I would totally recommend rock bowling to anyone looking for an unusual twist yet safe bet to start their night, and equally to those just looking for a fun activity to fill a couple of hours on the weekend. I know there are other rock bowling alleyways around Gwangju, but I would look no further than Sangmu to fulfill your bowling needs and your beer cravings on a Saturday night.

Kingpin Bowling 광주광역시 서구 상무연하로 50 에코노블빌딩 Eco Noble Building UG 1-2F, Sangmuyeonharo 50, Seo-gu, Gwangju Open daily 10 a.m. ~ 6 a.m.

For inquiries and reservations call 070-88050592/ 010-3202-3026

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Insights of a Traveler: The First Trip

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February 2017

TRAVEL

Words by Elizabeth Kaye Corpuz Photos by Lorryn Smit

H

ow can you describe a color to a blind man?

There are no correct or incorrect answers. Some may associate the color with an emotion. Some may use tangible objects to describe a color. There are no right or wrong answers. It all boils down to a matter of perception.

We all have different views; sometimes converging at one point, sometimes diverging into many branches.

When I was given the opportunity to share my travel experiences in South Korea, I was overwhelmed with the joy of writing, but concerns loomed on what I should write. Upon much pondering, the best way I found to relate my experience is through anecdotes from the cities I have been to in South Korea.

HOW WAS SOUTH KOREA? The first time I set foot in South Korea was in April 2014, together with my sister and cousin. Incheon greeted me with spine-chilling cold. As a firsttime traveler, I had many apprehen-

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sions and expectations, but the most grappling part was when I got out of the plane going for the immigration process.. I was literally chilled, the coldness permeated my bones and I could not even talk. Coming from a country with only two seasons, this was mind-blowing. We had researched about the weather and packed the recommended clothes, but the cold wind greeted us instantly and shattered me.

blossom trees. That first night, I could easily pinpoint the differences between our countries. I had my first lessons on Korean culture while walking about the city and taking the train.

Organized. Fast. I-don’t-care-aboutyou-so-don’t-burden-me character.

Then, I had my first Korean meal – fried chicken of various flavors. I am used to pairing up chicken with rice, but that is not the trend here. Chicken and beer is the one true pairing.

Our experience in Incheon was just a quick hello, and then we went on to meet the city of Seoul. I thought, “Ah, this is finally Korea! The land of Hallyu stars, idol groups, and Song Joongki.” Forgive me for my pettiness, but at that time I was not very interested in South Korea in general; my knowledge was limited to the 38th parallel and the so-called “Hallyu Wave,” which is apparently very popular in the Philippines.

After a few days of walking around Hongdae, Myeongdong, Insadong, and Dongdaemun, I had this feeling that Seoul was somehow too glamorous for me, and I felt that the emphasis for living in Seoul was being on top of all the latest trends.

Yeah! I have checked off something from my list! At last, I knew the smell of foreign air, Korean air for that matter, and the alluring scent of cherry

However, among the places I visited, I was, and still am, most attached to Hongdae because I could feel a freespirited vibe. I see it as a meeting place of artists and a hang-out for those who want to unwind. In the areas we had been to, most of the people were in a hurry and the atmosphere was palpably business-like. This was under-

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31 where we experienced a very sumptuous meal. It also brought me to the commemorative statue honoring the Philippines for its participation in the Korean War. I felt proud knowing that my country had extended a helping hand to those in need, but also sad because of the war.

Then, our seven-day trip ended.

When we went back to the Philippines, I felt distant towards myself and my country. Having seen Seoul, which I mistook for South Korea as a whole, was I being lured to see it as a perfect pristine jewel?

standable because we were in the center of commerce and trading. Hongdae and a part of Insadong were a contrast to that character. Perhaps that is why many locals, even foreigners, frequent the Han River to escape their mundane and pressure-filled lives, while watching the rainbow fountain of Banpo Bridge.

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Korea is known as the Land of the Morning Calm, but I noticed that the sun did not shine quite as brightly as it does back home in the Philippines, and so I felt a gloomy atmosphere.

Somewhere along this trip, it got me thinking, maybe it was very hard to live as a poor person here because there is more of a “mind-your-ownbusiness” attitude. Everyone is seeking a comfortable life as a reward for their hard work.

Seoul is like a beauty queen: hardworking and glamorous. If you want to have an experience of what every city might be like, then Seoul could offer that to you. Seoul is a one-stop place, a preview of the movie, a teaser.

My first trip also extended to Jeonju,

(To be continued in the March issue of Gwangju News.)

February 2017

Before the trip, I was thinking that maybe we could have a conversation with the guesthouse’s owner or a local, and cook some traditional food with the ingredients we were going to buy in the market. Aside from going places, I think the best way to enjoy a foreign land is to have interactions with the locals. But all of these ideas just existed in my mind. I wanted interaction, but conversations were very rare. Being a foreigner could account

We tried our best to live as a local would, so we saw ourselves eating from regular restaurants to roadside tents where office workers go to drink soju. Perhaps, this is how some of them live, especially if living alone.

Waking up. Office or school. A little chat. Home. Sleep. Then, they will wait for the weekend to have some time alone.

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One thing I marveled at was that you could find cafes around every corner. Aside from cafes being meet-up places, it got me thinking that maybe Koreans want to have a relaxing time, even for just a minute, so these establishments are everywhere with different concepts and themes. From all the self-induced and societal stressors, these are a comforting way to help Koreans cope with all of their anxieties.

for this: we were the odd-ones-out.

If South Korea were a lover, then it was not love at first sight. I was not interested in Korean culture, in all honesty.

While my peers followed Korean drama series and were avid fans of different idol groups, I was busy watching anime, reading manga, or fantasizing about European cities. My disinterest might have been because everyone was so hyped about the place.

Blame my character for not wanting anything too commercial or popular.

I do not jump on bandwagons, and if I become interested in something popular, I prefer to indulge after the hype is gone. Ironically then, my first travel abroad took place in South Korea. Probably, Koreans put some spell on their culture and work that slowly worked its way into my system. Because, almost unknowingly, I began following a number of Korean dramas, and since K-pop is all over the Philippines, I could not help but be a listener and a fan. However, after the first trip, I wanted to dig more, to validate or to disagree with what little knowledge I had garnered. I felt that there was still a facade that I had to see beyond. This impulse would bring us back to Korea in the future, to experience new cities.

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32 AROUND KOREA

TRAVEL

Old Seoul

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February 2017

Words and Photos By Stephanie and Ryan Hedger

T

here are a great many places in Korea that are perfectly suited to the romance associated with February. Jeju, Geoje, and Nami Island all advertise themselves as romance destinations, sure, but many destinations can be equally romantic for those looking to simply relax and be immersed in their partner’s presence. One of our best recommendations for couples in this most romantic month is a weekend trip to Bukchon in Seoul.

ENDLESS OPPORTUNITIES Located northeast of Insadong, this neighborhood is also very central to the more cultural areas of the city.

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Along with its sightseeing opportunities, Bukchon is probably the best possible place a visitor wanting a taste of “Old Korea” could stay the night. Famous for its neighborhood of traditional hanok houses in the middle of an ultra-modern Seoul, Bukchon Hanok Village is a beautiful juxtaposition for the skyscrapers you can see a mere few blocks away.

This neighborhood has many “homestay” properties where visitors can stay in accommodations reminiscent of Joseon-era Korea. Endlessly photogenic and a great place to get lost in alleyways between tea breaks, we find ourselves returning time and time again.

BUKCHON MAGIC Traditional Korean architecture is wonderful to see in ultra-modern Seoul and provides a beautiful backdrop to a romantic weekend. In areas like Bukchon, you can still find clusters of these houses, and the charm and traditional feel of this royal neighborhood justifies its affluent vibe. Entering this area has a transformative effect on visitors: one that is welcoming as well as fascinating.

This fantasy neighborhood is the perfect place to be lost with a loved one, eating street foods, venturing out to other areas of Seoul, and exploring some of the city’s most traditional properties.

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FOOD & DRINKS

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ROMANTIC BUKCHON It will likely come as no surprise that this area is exceedingly popular with tourists as well as couples. While being distinctly quieter than other tourist areas, Bukchon also retains the distinct advantage of not having subways and buses congesting the area. A walk in the neighborhoods of this historic district provides ample nooks and crannies for ducking away from prying eyes and the mass of people that visit daily. To add to the romance of Bukchon, one can easily rent hanbok clothing from several vendors in the area to make your photos all the more memorable. The city of Seoul does a lot to discourage noise in this area for the sake of the residents, so an extended stroll through Bukchon is likely to be one of the more peaceful and serene experiences you could have in the middle of any massive city. For those wishing to enhance their experience further or simply need a reason to

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stay a bit longer, many of the properties in the neighborhood offer “hanokstay programs” where visitors can stay the night in the beautiful and memorable houses. A weekend stay in the Bukchon area is not only guaranteed to be a remarkable experience, but one of serene tranquility.

BUKCHON GETAWAY Whether visiting for the first time, the hundredth, or simply going for a romantic weekend to one of the quietest areas of Seoul, Bukchon is sure to delight even the most discerning traveler. With its charms, culture, food, shopping, architecture, aesthetic beauty, and Jongno background, this neighborhood is one that cannot be overlooked. With Valentine’s Day fast approaching, we cannot think of a more lighthearted and fun location for a romantic getaway than renting hanbok clothing and spending a few nights in one of Bukchon’s many beautiful hanok houses.

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KOREAN FOOD 35

Know Which Is Which: Seolleongtang and Gomtang Words by CHO Namhee Photos Provided by the GIC

H

Before we get down to the real tang business, there is an interesting fact to learn about beef in Korea. There is

no other country besides Korea that classifies beef into 125 parts. As per tradition, Koreans never let any part of the animal go to waste. The ingredients are by far the biggest difference between seolleongtang and gomtang.

Both soups require the ingredients to be simmered for a very long time (sometimes more than half a day); however, the ingredients make the colors different. Kneecap bones or leg and foot bones are simmered to make a deep, rich broth in milky white seolleongtang. On the other hand, traditional gomtang should be made using beef ribs, brisket, flank, tripe, and other innards (even tailbones) slowly simmered at a low heat. The more varieties of beef parts put into the pot for simmering, the richer the broth. In brief, seolleongtang is more bone-dense and gomtang is more meat-based.

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Try to distinguish between these two soups this winter. I hope this article has educated you sufficiently to guide you in choosing the soup that is just right for you! Bon Appetit!

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The seasonings of the two dishes are another difference between them.

During the broth simmering for gomtang, soy sauce is used as seasoning; however, seolleongtang uses pure, simmered broth and needs to be seasoned with salt and scallions according to the consumer’s preference.

Furthermore, gomtang is expected to be served with few, relatively thick, chunks of meat simmered with the broth. On the other hand, seolleongtang is served with only a few thin slices of meat surrounding the bones, or beef parts are prepared separately as a garnish. This may be the reason why seolleongtang has plain noodles inside but gomtang does not.

Side dishes like kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi), kimchi, and hot chili pepper are served alongside these soups for specific reasons. They not only add savor to the soup, but also balance the plain flavor with spiciness, eliminating the fatty flavor of the soup. It is strongly recommended by the locals to add the juice of kkakdugi into seolleongtang for a fresher taste. As with all other Korean dishes, these two soups may be served differently depending on the region.

Gwangju is fortunate enough to have our neighboring city, Naju, which is famous for its gomtang variation known as Naju Gomtang. Its distinct flavor and presentation attracts Koreans from all over the peninsula, forming a unique street of gomtang restaurants that draws crowds of diners and tourists on weekends.

FOOD & DRINKS

ot bowls of guk or tang, otherwise known as soup, can never be left out from Korea’s winter recipes, especially in this cool weather. Although there is an extensive range of soup varieties in this paradise for soup-lovers, there are not that many choices you can make if you seek something not red or spicy. For Koreans, seolleongtang (설렁탕) and gomtang (곰탕) will be at the top of the list of milky soups with their rich flavors. But it is shameful to know that not even most Koreans can fully explain the difference between the two white soups. Therefore, I gift you here with the revelation of the truth behind distinguishing these two beef soups enjoyed by many.

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February 2017

FOOD & DRINKS

36 WHERE TO EAT

Where to Eat:

Afterworks

Words by Sean D’Angelo Photos by Sean D’Angelo and Lorryn Smit

H

ere is a quick riddle for all our clever readers out there: This meal begins with a “B,” and there is no better way to start your day. If you guessed beer, then we can be friends. While it is true that most Korean beer winds up mixed with soju, over the past four years, craft brewing has inspired a new generation of connoisseurs who value the quality of their drinks over the quantity. Until recently, trendsetter breweries like Craftworks, Magpie, Hand and Malt, and Galmegi could really only be found in Seoul, Busan, or Jeju-si, but with increasingly relaxed regulations on production quotas, microbreweries have finally begun to crop up here in our neck of the woods. Local beer lovers have a reason to rejoice because Gwangju just got its very first chic little brewpub: Afterworks. All the beers served on tap at this quaint Dongmyeong-dong venue are locally made and custom-tailored to younger palates. The food is also, incidentally, worth checking out.

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The story of Afterworks begins six months ago when three passionate founders, Choi Jin-won, Seo Jun-yeoung and Yun Hyun-suk, envisioned an upscale boutique brewpub that married beer with fine dining. Starting from scratch, they founded their business in Jeonju’s famous traditional village and began testing recipes with names that would resonate with Gwangju customers, like Mudeung Mountain Pilsner and Yeongsang River Dunkel. In a break from recent trends towards heavy stouts and double hops, these three pioneers focused on lighter drafts, IPAs, and weizens, flavors that are far more approachable for folks accustomed to Cass. The resulting flight offered exclusively at their Dongmyeong-dong venue is perfectly delicate in every sense: pale in color, light on the tongue, and dangerously easy to drink.

Gwangsan Weizen, their big-ticket seller, is a frothy and full-flavored beer with hints of banana and clove that the

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37 ladies cannot resist. The Dongmyeong ESA is nutty, with rich caramel overtones. Ipdong IPA is floral, bordering on hoppy, with a distinct yeast bite that positively screams craft brewing. The Dunkel and Pilsner are both so light on the tongue they almost seem to evaporate. The average price for a half pint is 8,000 won, putting Afterworks a little on the pricy side, but for just 16,000, you can pick your favorite four to taste and even get some killer brie, nuts, and dried fruit on the side.

Or, if you are feeling a little more decadent, you can double the price and order a full plate of toasted cheeses as an appetizer. Dinners are served more as Korean anju (dishes to share when drinking) than as individual meals. When ordering, expect more food than you can comfortably eat alone.

In fact, just the menu selection itself is a bit overwhelming — 35 pasta, steak, seafood, salad, and fried items cover two pages in tiny font. You will probably finish at least one beer while choosing what you want to eat. An average party of two should expect to spend somewhere in the range of 30-40 thousand won for an evening’s entertainment.

If you can find it, Afterworks is the perfect place for a date or small get-together. Look for a little yellow sign with their logo, a pair of crossed wheat stalks, along a dark and deserted alley. The restaurant itself is tucked away from the street be-

Afterworks Brewpub 광주 동구 동명동 68-35 (동명로 14번길) Dongmyeong-ro 14-beongil, Dong-gu, Gwangju Open daily 12 pm – 12 am (last order @ 11 pm) Break time 2:30 pm – 5:30 pm For reservations call 062-225-1963

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

hind a tall wall that makes the place look uninhabited at first glance. Once you are through one of the two tiny gates, you will discover a gorgeous glass and wood cottage nestled in a brightly lit courtyard strewn with lanterns and Christmas lights. The pub interior is modern and sophisticated, more like a café than either a restaurant or a bar, and the staff is both elegant and professional. Menus are currently printed in Korean, but seasonal favorites are listed next to pictures of snowmen and Santas to help guide you in ordering the best that this fun new joint has to offer. Everything is good, so you cannot go wrong.

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38

TRAVEL

NAVRUZ New Year of Uzbekistan

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February 2017

Words by Yuldoshov Kurbonali

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sk any Uzbek person, whether old or young, about their dearest and most favorite holiday. As often as not, you will get the answer “Navruz.” What kind of holiday is it? And why it is so loved by everyone, whether residents or guests of the country?

First of all, it has brought wisdom from the depths of the centuries to the contemporary era. The history of this holiday goes deep into the ancient history of humanity, to the time when farming and cults related to agriculture first appeared.

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The birthplace of Navruz is Khorasan (north-east of Iran), and it is more than 3000 years old, and over time, it spread to the neighboring regions of West Asia and Central Asia. The holiday did not appear on a whim but according to the rules of nature.

On that very day, March 21, when daytime and nighttime are equal, a new solar cycle begins as well as a new astronomical year; thus, the law of renewal enters its strength. That is why Navruz for Turkic and Iranian people is the same as the New Year for the western part of the world. Lat-

er, during the Achaemenid Empire (6th-4th centuries B.C.E.), Navruz received an official status-change, shifting from a farming ritual to a Zoroastrian holiday, and was tied to the cult of the Sun and Zaratustra.

Today, Navruz is a national holiday, and one of the main Uzbek national traditions, and it is full of ancient, unique rituals and beautiful customs as in ancient times.

The main mystery happens on the night of March 21. It is time for the preparation of the main ceremonial meal from germinated wheat: su-

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39

Navruz folk festivals

Navruz is generally very tightly con-

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Navruz feast table setting

nected with new hopes and expectations. Therefore, this day is used to forgive even the worst enemies, to not quarrel, and to help the weak and poor. People believe that all of this will lure success into your house.

Abundance is also a good sign. Hostesses fry special patties with greenery, cook nishalda (a sweet dessert made of egg whites, whipped with sugar and the scented roots of herbs), bake puff samsa (fried pastry with various fillings), and steam the fragrant pilaf in pots... On March 21, the table is

plentifully laden with delicious food.

Another good sign of the holiday is to entertain. In each house, guests are expectantly waited for on this day: people accept guests and pay visits.

It is hard to stay at home on Navruz!

Folk festivals in the villages are especially interesting where traditional sport competitions of kupkari (team competition played on horseback), wrestling of dzhigits (brave people), and equestrian competitions are arranged. There are folk fairs as well, where you can buy everything from souvenirs to national baked foods.

February 2017

malak (a sweet paste). The whole mahalla (social institutions or divisions based around familial ties and Islamic rituals), mostly women, gather near the huge pot; they sit in a circle, sing songs, have fun, each of them waiting for their turn to stir the sumalak. In the morning, the still warm sumalak is handed out to neighbors, relatives, and friends. While tasting the sumalak, it is necessary to make a wish, which, the locals say, will come true.

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February 2017

TRAVEL

40 FROM ABROAD

Reasons to Visit Central Asia:

Follow Our Silk Road Journey Words by Áine Byrne and Fabio Tardim Images Provided by the GIC

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41 Would you like to travel to the heart of the Silk Road? Go off the beaten track and find some place that is new? How does visiting the Gates of Hell in Turkmenistan appeal to you? Or perhaps star-gazing from a yurt in the remote mountains of Kyrgyzstan?

T

hrough a series written by Áine Byrne and Fabio Tardim, you may discover parts of Central Asia via a unique route cutting across desolate mountains, majestic lakes, and lush valleys of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan. Stroll with us through the deserts and ancient cities of Uzbekistan to reach the secretive Turkmenistan.

Our journey reaches its end by crossing the Caspian Sea towards Baku in Azerbaijan.

Welcome to Stanland! The Mongol Empire once considered this region as its staging area. Later in the 19th century, the British and Russian empires had a difficult time in trying to spread their influence throughout these areas. More recently, it is best known as military ground for NATO’s campaign in Afghanistan.

Our aim is to help clear the fog and provide a few tips on how to travel through this astonishingly beautiful part of the world.

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3. Relax in one of Karakuls’ tranquil resort spas in Kyrgyzstan If, however, you are not an active person or think of holidays as a chance to chill out, then you can head to Issyk-Kol lake, the second-largest alpine lake in the world. Join the Russians and Kazakhs who travel all the way down to Kyrgyzstan to enjoy the warm waters of the lake and relax.

Note the amazing backdrop views and a busy animal market on Sundays.

4. Travel across the spectacular Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan Locals call it “The Roof of the World,” and it is one of the highest highways, as well as one of the least populated regions, in the world. It is the ultimate road trip with astounding high-altitude lakes and jaw-dropping mountain views. Take note that it is almost impossible to travel here in the winter and spring due to the severe weather conditions.

5. Drive down the “Tunnel of Death” near Dushanbe to Khojand in Tajikistan

February 2017

TOP 10 REASONS TO VISIT CENTRAL ASIA: 1. Get to know the heart of the Silk Road Whether you start your journey in China or not, it is up to you. Nevertheless, you can fly relatively cheap from Seoul to Almaty, the jewel of

2. Stay in yurts of nomadic people throughout your visit This is an incredible chance to experience a unique lifestyle that is diminishing all over the world. There are a lot of community-based tourism agencies that can arrange your stay. Prepare yourself for some serious stargazing, trekking, helicopter skiing, hiking, and more.

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Even some experienced travelers consider it a “terra incognita,” with its overly complicated visa rules and border crossings. For most people, the “Stans” are simply a geographical haze. For all these reasons, the area is shrouded in a fog of mystery. A fog that in some ways has preserved the rich cultural identity and diverse history of the Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, and the many other ethnic groups across the nations of Central Asia.

Kazakhstan, and start your journey in the heart of the Silk Road. This ancient route has been extensively traveled for more than a millennia by merchants, explorers, and conquerors. It was the trading route that connected Beijing to Istanbul and the rest of Europe.

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42

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February 2017

Not exactly a place to do your sightseeing, but the death tunnel has its quirks. It is about 5 kilometers long, with highly toxic air and absolutely no lights. Just make sure you do not break down halfway through. Once in Khojand though, you will be delighted with one of Tajikistan’s oldest towns, founded by a chap named Alexander the Great.

6. Peek into the fields of Afghanistan from the Wakhan Corridor of Tajikistan At the moment, it would not be very wise to cross into Afghanistan.

Though it is possible, and the remote Afghan part of the Wakhan Corridor is considered safe. However, the Tajik side offers similar views, and it is a bit more developed than its neighbor.

7. Gaze at the exquisite mosques and architecture in Samarkand, Uzbekistan This is certainly the cradle of culture in the region. Here is where you will find the top-three most beautiful cities in Central Asia: Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. It has been said by many that no one will ever be disappointed by these three, and often people say that the cities are even more beautiful than they had anticipated.

8. Lose yourself in the exquisite

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“City of Love,” Ashgabat, Turkmenistan Unfortunately, the old city was wiped out in 1948, and in its place, a typical soviet city was built. However, in the last few decades, it has reinvented itself with a number of marble palaces and golden domes punctuated by parks and more fountains than Las Vegas. The city is often considered a cross between Pyongyang and Vegas. This is no ordinary place, that is a certainty.

9. Tour the scorching “Gates of Hell” in Turkmenistan The Darvaza Gas Craters are artificial craters created by soviet gas explorations in the 1950s. There are three large craters, but only one was set alight during the failed exploration, and it has been burning ever since.

It is an impressive site, and it has been compared to something like the Gates of Hell. You can camp nearby and enjoy the majestic blazing inferno at night.

10. Drink in the culture and bazaars of Baku, Azerbaijan Finally, after crossing the Caspian Sea, one may as well enjoy a few relaxing days getting to know one of the most cosmopolitan places of the region. It is also easier to find a flight back to Korea from Baku. But again, if time is of no concern, then the Silk

Baku, Azerbaijan at night

Road keeps going through Iran and Turkey...

There are many more reasons to go and places to visit in Central Asia, but we think this top 10 illustrates some of the most exciting places to visit and activities to complete. Some words of warning are worth stating, however. Central Asian nations are a bit underdeveloped in comparison to Western nations, and traveling to the region requires research and some patience.

Visa rules have changed lately, and it is not as hard as it used to be to get a visa. U.S. and U.K. citizens will usually pay a lot more for their visas, and most nationalities will have to arrange their visas before boarding the plane. Getting to Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan can be both costly and tricky. These setbacks are minor though, and the staff at the embassies in Seoul are very helpful.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS: Áine Byrne and Fabio Tardim are an intrepid, traveling couple who shall journey across Central Asia while writing a series about each country for Gwangju News.

They will also publish articles for Turkish Airlines and some other media outlets about their travels in spring 2017. To find out more about Central Asia, how to get there, and to follow their travels, visit: www.followoursilkroad.weebly.com

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MOVIE REVIEW 43

Words by Marty Miller

W

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The above being said, “The Client” seems best appreciated while retaining

a slightly objective viewpoint. When watching this film, it is difficult not to compare it to its Hollywood counterparts or other North American courtroom dramas. As such, more subtle details become intriguing. For example, noting how the speed and intonation of dialogue navigate the courtroom in culturally specific hierarchies showed this reviewer his own conditioning on the subject. Or take the director’s embrace of blood yet tasteful restraint from bringing unnecessary gore onto the screen. Consider also the unique design of the courtroom set itself, which seemed, perhaps, more akin to the set of a sci-fi film than to the neoclassical designs represented onscreen of many British, American, and Canadian courthouses.

In short, whether seeking to compare a Korean court drama with the likes of similar Western films or just seeking two hours’ worth of semi-sober entertainment, “The Client” will likely prove worthy of your intrigue.

February 2017

First off, as this film is readily available online (via a YouTube search for “The Client Korean Movie”), there

will be no hint of any sort of spoiler within this review. If you readers are familiar with the Joel Schumacher film of the same name, fear not. This is not a simple re-branding of the story that garnered Susan Sarandon her fourth (failed) academy award nomination for best actress way back in the mid-nineties. Therefore, it is fair enough to say that the three lead roles (all male) manage to pull off distinct performances without getting in each other’s way (those waiting to see a female do anything more than scrub a coffee stain off a desk or steal a middle-aged man’s toupee will be disappointed.) There is also a well-timed climactic moment within one of the latter courtroom sequences that yanks even the most passé viewer’s heart to attention. Overall, the film manages to survive a few terribly timed doubletake cuts to produce a very entertaining two hours.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

e are into a new year, and as such, are greeted with a new array of films to set our sights upon. This time of year allows for a healthy dose of big-budget local screenings as well as Hollywood films, all jockeying for position to empty our wallets of our holiday bonuses. However, in an attempt to save time and cash, this month’s selection can easily be watched for free, online.

Directed by Sohn Young-sung, “The Client” did better than expected at the box office in the fall of 2011. While there are a plethora of love stories and revenge-filled historical dramas being made in South Korea, there are far fewer courtroom dramas. As such, watching “The Client” serves as a window into both the reinterpretation of Hollywood’s take on the genre, but also a brand of film attempting to come into its own.

ARTS & CULTURE

The Client 의뢰인

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EDUCATION

44

Four Weeks in Seoul:

Short-Term Intensive Korean Language Courses

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

Words by Kelsey Rivers

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earning Korean can be hard.

Even for those international residents who have been living in Korea for years, developing fluency in the language can seem like a daunting task, and one that we never quite seem to manage. It does not help that Korea is obscenely easy to navigate with the most minimal use of Korean – English and gestures will do us just fine in most everyday scenarios. The problem can be further aggravated by our differing learning styles and location in Korea. Some of us can easily pick up language by immersing ourselves in the environment, in which case, living in a more isolated, rural locale can have its ben-

February 2017.indd 44

Photo by Lorryn Smit

efits. However, some of us need more structure in our language-learning environments, with teachers to guide us in our development. In such situations, living in that rural town is less than ideal. Even in large, metropolitan cities like Gwangju that does have classes available, finding what you need can be difficult for working adults, with our various work schedules.

However, there are options available to us to learn more Korean! While self-study through textbooks and such websites as Talk to Me in Korean are perennial favorites, if you want a more intensive experience,

heading to Seoul to attend one of the top universities in the nation for their short-term intensive language programs (one to four weeks long, typically) is a definite option.

Yes, these types of programs exist in other cities as well, but the majority of programs are concentrated in Seoul, and some of the most reputable programs are located there. And for those of us who are English teachers working for the majority of the year, these programs are convenient for being short-term (but intensive!), and available during winter and summer vacation periods.

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45 Molly Lockwood, a former Fulbright English Teaching Assistant who worked in Mokpo from 2013 to 2015 and is now a program coordinator at the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences at Harvard University, attended two such programs in Seoul, at Seoul National University and Yonsei University. She was happy to share her thoughts regarding these kinds of programs.

Why did you choose to study in Seoul, as opposed to someplace else in Korea, such as Gwangju? Is there a particular reason why you chose to study at Seoul National University and Yonsei?

Seoul was my favorite program out of all the Korean language courses I’ve

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The strengths of these kinds of intensive language programs are the access to the mass of information dispersed in an economical time frame, and the immersive environment created by that. Sixty to eighty hours of class in three to four weeks forces one to focus much of their energy on the language, and that creates an environment for immersion regardless of whether or not you are in a geographic area where the language is spoken. For me, progress can be noticed much more easily, which in turn makes me feel like I’ve really accomplished something in a short amount of time.

Are there any drawbacks to participating in these programs?

There are many drawbacks to participating in these programs, one of which is the lack of support for further study post-program. Many times, a textbook will be completed during the course, and students have to pursue the next level in that pro-

Why were you interested in taking intensive Korean language programs?

I was interested in taking intensive Korean language programs mainly because I thought it was important to learn to communicate in the language of the country that was hosting me. I was committed to bridging the communicative and cultural gaps between myself and others in my community, including my co-workers at school, my homestay family, my students, and my local friends as well as those whom I’d only meet once. My relationships with each of these people was central to my life, and I was highly interested in bonding with them. Additionally, I love learning languages and deeply value the lessons learned and skills gained in the process.

For more information on specific programs, a quick Google search will bring up popular choices, including Molly’s favorite at Seoul National University. Some programs may suit your needs more than others. Molly noted that while Seoul National University was more like what she was used to in the US, Yonsei was more traditional in their teaching methods, which was personally less engaging for her. Do your research, and happy language learning!

February 2017

What were these programs like?

Could you describe a typical day in the program?

What are the strengths of these kinds of programs, in your opinion?

gram or get the next textbook on their own to continue studying. Alternatively, if the student has easier access to another program’s textbook after the course, the material may not be in line with the skills previously learned, which could be beneficial to the student if they don’t mind reviewing, but it could also be difficult if another textbook or program expects the student to have learned material that they haven’t. This, of course, is a minor issue.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

I chose to study in Seoul over other areas in Korea because, frankly, I didn’t know about other programs with a similar intensity and schedule.

I chose Seoul University and Yonsei specifically because their university programs were well advertised and easy to navigate online (easier than others at least), and I had already taken a course at Korea University before, so I was interested in trying out all the schools in SKY. In my teaching community, I knew of others who had taken courses at these universities in Seoul before, and they recommended them. Seoul and Yonsei were also optimal to me at that time because they offered courses that fit well with my winter break schedule.

I was actually really interested in taking courses at Sogang University because of their focus on the speaking component, but the timeline didn’t match well. Additionally, the winter before, I had taken a month-long course at a Ganada Hagwon in Seoul and was looking for something more intense and was willing to pay for the difference to get that intensity.

taken in Korea by far. At Seoul Dae (sorry, Seoul University just sounds weird to me) we met for 4 hours, 5 days a week for 3 weeks. Each hour focused on a different language skill (speaking, listening, writing, and reading) while covering one chapter in the textbook each day. Culture was a focus in addition to language, which I think is ideal in any foreign language classroom. There were varying exercises throughout the program, and no two days felt like they were being taught the same way. I think this course mirrored my previous experience in language classrooms in the US and met my expectations for desired intensity. At the end of the course, we had truly bonded as a class (maybe 12 students with 3 instructors) and were sad to leave campus.

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46 EXPAT LIVING

Internet Shopping

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

February 2017

COMMUNITY

Words and Image provided by GIC Staff

I

nternet shopping is relatively very easy, safe, and convenient to do in Korea, being the world’s best in Internet speed. A few years ago, registration for Internet shopping users was difficult for foreigners, as online shoppers had to register with their resident registration numbers. So, as international residents, we were limited in using these kinds of services.

Nowadays, we only need to confirm our identification with our phone numbers, so everyone, international residents along with Koreans, can register rather easily on any website.

Internet shopping in Korea offers diverse services, from buying clothes, to services like baby item rentals and even supermarket delivery; all can be acquired with a click of a button. Big online shopping sites like 11st (11번 가) and GMarket are very popular among international residents as they have various language options. Payments can be made by credit cards and real-time bank transfers, and completed easily either online, on your computer, or with your phone.

Here are my personal tips if you decide to shop online: 1. Check the seller’s reviews. The higher the star rating, the better.

You can also check the seller’s

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information through the option 판매자정보 (usually available on the tab next to the item information). You can check their business registration number and whether their office is located in Korea (this tip requires you to know a little bit of Korean language).

2. Check the question and answer (Q&A) section of each item. If you see regular questions, like when the items will be delivered, and the answer from the seller is prompt (see the reply date), it is more likely that you can trust the seller. If the Q&A is filled with unhappy notes and complaints about delivery time and returns or exchanges, you better avoid this seller and find a different seller instead. Extra tip: Even if you don’t know much Korean, unhappy messages are usually indicated by the fact that they were sent by the same customers for an extended period of time. The messages tend to be long, and filled with lots of question marks and even exclamation points. Even if the poster keeps it hidden, you can see if they were posted by the same person by checking their ID. 3. Check the return and exchange policy. Usually the store will of-

fer a seven-day exchange or refund policy that can be done directly through the website. Or you might have to call the seller first to make the necessary arrangements. Be aware that if you have received the item and did not confirm that you have decided to keep the item (구매결정), the system will automatically change after seven days, after which you cannot make any claim. Usually undergarments and food products are non-returnable.

4. Compare prices because sometimes the same seller will sell their items on different sites at the same prices, but because of the different discount coupons offered by different sites, you may be able to purchase it at a somewhat cheaper price.

CASH RECEIPT (현금영수증) If you pay for items in cash while shopping online, which includes immediate bank transfers, you can claim a cash receipt. You have to provide either your resident/alien registration number or your phone number before making a payment. Cash receipts are useful when you have to fill out your year-end tax forms because a portion of your cash purchases can be refunded by the government.

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47 Survival Korean includes the most essential Korean phrases you need to know while traveling or living in Korea. The expressions come with detailed explanations as well as fun and useful information about the situation where they are used.

Talk to Me In Korean

Internet Shopping

Talk To Me In Korean and Seoulistic are proud to present to you

Survival Korean!

Make your stay in Korea much easier and enjoy it to the fullest with Survival Korean!

Whether you are just traveling or living in Korea, this book, the perfect size that can fit right in your purse, will come in handy whenever you want something.

EDUCATION

WEBSITE REGISTRATION Many Korean online shops are limited to registered members and require user registration for further access. When registering to become a member, most of the time there is no English version of the registration page. Instead of just randomly clicking around and guessing what something means during the sign-up process, refer to the list below!

회원가입 [hoe-won-ga-ip] / 가입하기 [ga-i-pa-gi]: sign-up/registration The website registration process starts by clicking on the word 회원가입 or 가입하기. The word 회원 means “membership” and 가 입 means “registration”. 성명 [seong-myeong]: name 성명 is a more formal version of the common Korean word for “name”, 이름 [i-reum]. 이메일 [i-me-il]: e-mail 연락처 [yeol-lak-cheo]: phone number Another word for phone number is 전화번호 [jeo-nwa-beo-no]. 주민 등록 번호 [ju-min deung-nok beo-no]: Resident Registration Number Many websites require an international user to register for website IDs by providing his/her resident registration number, a number that all Korean citizens are given. It is similar to national identification numbers in other countries.

본인 인증 [bo-nin in-jeung]: identity confirmation For certain registration sign-ups, identity confirmation is also required. This step is typically completed by the website sending a pin number to the mobile phone that is used for registering with the same resident registration number, 주민 등록 번호 [ju-min deung-nok beo-no], or with a foreigner registration number, 외국인 등록 번호 [oe-gu-gin deung-nok beo-no].

개인 회원 [gae-in hoe-won]: personal account Some websites allow a choice between personal accounts, 개인 회원, and corporate accounts, 법인 회원 [beo-bin hoe-won].

This book extract from Survival Korean is available at MyKoreanStore.com

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February 2017

개인정보 [gae-in-jeong-bo]: personal information 동의 [dong-ui] / 동의 안 함 [dong-ui an ham]: accept / do not accept For websites with user agreements, there are several terms and conditions on documents that the user must accept in order to continue with signing up. These agreements are usually in relation to how personal information can be or is going to be used for website management and future promotions.

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외국인 등록 번호[oe-gu-gin deung-nok beo-no]: Alien Registration Number This number is given to foreign residents to serve as an identification number when coming to Korea on a certain type of visa, such as a student or working visa. International residents (depending on the type of visa) can receive an Alien Registration Number ( 외국인 등록 번호) and an Alien Registration Card (외국인 등록증 [oe-gu-gin deung-nok-jjeung]). Some websites are difficult for international residents to sign up, but this practice has changed in recent years, now that most major websites have extended sign-ups to include international residents registering with an Alien Registration Number.

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48 KOTESOL

How to Bore Your Class to Death

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February 2017

EDUCATION

Words and Photos provided by Dr. David Shaffer

S

tudents reading comic books in class. Texting on their phones.

Chatting. Doodling. Dozing off. Students being bored. Actually, I do not think I really need to write too much on how to bore students because most teachers realize how to do this, albeit unintentionally, without very much classroom experience being required. What every teacher wants to do is avoid boring their students. You may quickly think that the answer to this problem is obvious, but I think that as the new school term approaches, it is good to revisit and reflect on how to avoid boring our students to death – how to keep them attentive and engaged in language learning rather than counting the minutes until the bell rings.

WHO’S DOING THE TALKING? Just like English, Korean has distinct terms for “classroom” and “lecture hall.” The latter is intended for oneway, speaker-to-audience communication. The former is not – not in today’s EFL world. We know that students learn best through interaction, engagement, learning by doing.

We need to have our students working on tasks, projects, and talking. It is through inquiry, negotiation, and practice that language learning takes place.

Students need comprehensible L1

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input, too, and this can come from the teacher. But we need to be very mindful of the quality of our input.

Are we speaking in a monotone?

Are we speaking too softly? Are we speaking disinterestedly? These are sure-fire boredom-builders. We need to speak loudly and clearly with feeling in our voice, and very importantly, we need to speak at their level of English proficiency, not at our own.

The classroom is not the place for the teacher to be showcasing their speaking skills, but rather showcasing their teaching skills.

DO YOUR ACTIVITIES ACTIVATE? It is generally accepted that languageskills classes should contain a lot of

student activities: worksheets, pattern practice, role plays, discussions, tasks, skits, songs, games, etc.

They are to activate, to motivate the students, rather than have them sit passively in their seats. The construction of an activity, though, can make a world of difference in how engaging it is. Let us take, as an example, something as simple as a patternpractice question: “What color is your _____?” It is so easy for us to make display questions for such an exercise that we all already know the answer to: “What color is your shirt/ hair/pencil?” Boring! Ask referential questions, questions that you do not already know the answer to, and encourage your students to do the

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Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL Monthly Meeting Date: February 11, 2017 (Sat.) Place: Gwangju National University of Education Two Main Session Presentations of EFL Topics SwapShop – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have. same. “What color is your dreamhouse?” “What color is your dreamcar?” Such questions get the students thinking, engaged, and give them a feeling of success in conveying a real message. The same is true of more involved activities: set tasks that involve the students’ lives, their real-life situations, or future aspirations.

What the Korean student is looking for, though, is an authority figure – one who exhibits professionalism as a teacher and at the same time projects empathy toward the students in the class. Students care whether their teacher seems to care. The teacher who shows their students that they truly care about them and whether they learn is the teacher who needs not worry about boring their class to death.

THE AUTHOR

David E. Shaffer is Vice-President of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the Chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (2nd Saturday of the month). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University, where he has taught graduate and undergraduate courses. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions, including First Vice-President and Publications Committee Chair. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching.

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HOW ARE YOU “PERFORMING”?

A teacher, pretty much by definition, needs to be a performer. But it is very important for the teacher to decide what type of teacher they choose to be. Some will adopt an authoritarian character, keeping the class under control, but also under a spell of boredom. Some will slip into the teacher-preacher style, hogging valuable class time, talking away at KTX speeds. Still others will take on the court-jester persona, belittle himself with clownish acts to make the class have fun, but learn little language.

For full event details: • Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju • Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

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DOES YOUR TECHNOLOGY REFLECT METHODOLOGY? We tend to think of the use of technology as a fail-safe way to liven up a lesson. Power-point presentations and video clips may be a diversion from the traditional lesson plan, but listening activities that involve long video clips and routine power-point presentation lessons tend to become . . . Boring! Ensure that your technology-based activities and lessons are based on the same ELT methodology that your no-technology lessons are.

Have you been one of those who has thought, “I will show a movie – that will take care of the last class period!”

Integrating technology into our lessons is great, but we must be vigilant to make sure that we use it as a learning tool rather than as just an enlivening tool. And the use of technology should not be limited to the teacher’s domain. Almost every student has a smartphone that has Internet ac-

cess and apps for language learning.

Many of these apps (e.g., Socrative) can be employed by students in the classroom to great effect.

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OPINION

50 OP-ED

All You Need Is Love

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February 2017

Words by Doug Baumwoll Photo by Lorryn Smit

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r so crooned Mr. Lennon back in July of 1967. Elsewhere, that same summer was dubbed “The Summer of Love” because 100,000 “hippies” converged on the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood in San Francisco to celebrate free love, drugs, self-exploration, and self-expression. “Love the one you’re with,” advocated Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young in 1970. New Agers say “God is Love.” A search online for “true love quotes” yielded 36 million results. So, as this issue of Gwangju

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News coincides with Valentine’s Day, let us take a closer look at love.

LOVE In 1849, Alfred, Lord Tennyson famously wrote, “’Tis better to have loved and lost, than never to have loved at all.” Consider these lines; what do they mean to you? Did you know that, in actuality, Tennyson was talking about the brotherly love he felt for a male friend, here, and not romantic love? So, that brings us to a crucial question: What is “love”? First

of all, the Greek language distinguishes between four distinct types of love.

Sanskrit denotes 96 words for love.

For those of us from the West, the English word “love” was birthed from the Old English “lufu” in roughly the 12th century. Yet, although a thousand years old, we must still add qualifiers to express its complex nuances.

“I love her as a friend.” “I love him like a brother.” We talk of “romantic” love, “Platonic” love, “maternal” love. We “like” him, but we definitely do not “love” him. It seems we do not really

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51 have a handle on this vast, amorphous concept at all. So, when we say, “I love her, and am going to marry her,” what does this mean? And, importantly, does it mean the same thing to you as it does to me? Love in this sense – the Romeo-and-Juliet, “true love ’til death do us part” sense – originated in England in just the 16th century.

It connotes libido, physical desire, lifelong monogamous devotion, and transcendence of the individual, all rolled into one. A tall order, it seems to me.

Finally, there is also a scientific aspect to love (the romantic version): brain chemistry. Did you know brain dopamine levels, responsible for euphoria, are elevated during the first six months of a relationship? Ever hear of oxytocin or vasopressin?

Both are involved in long-term pair bonding. It seems Gibran, Shakespeare, and Garcia Marquéz (not to mention Hollywood) left this part out of their stories. Read about biological anthropology if you want the full story.

Anyway, let us say you have found someone who fits your concept of love and you want to marry them.

How old are you? Well, in the United States, women and men on average espouse at 27 and 29, respectively, up from 20 and 22 in 1960. In Korea, brides wed at 30, grooms at 32.

“More than half ” of Korean men “in their thirties” were unmarried in 2010, with 30% of women also single.

Economic considerations such as low salaries, an unstable job market, the

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THEN COMES BABY In 2014, Korea’s birthrate ranked 219th of 224 nations worldwide. In contrast, humanity as a whole took only 12 years to birth the last billion earthlings. With 7.47 billion people currently sucking at Mother Earth’s teat (and expelling all kinds of waste into her air, earth, and water), it seems that begetting children is not as straightforward a proposition as it once was. There are new sociological and ecosystemic consequences to consider.

SO? Look, I just like thinking about things, and I hope I have incited you to do so as well. We all certainly need to feel and express love in all its forms. The Inuit people of Alaska have some 30 words for snow because each has its own important characteristics and distinctions. I think it would be grand if all languages could use distinct words to verbalize thoughts like I “love” humanity, I “love” Mother Earth, and I “love” my wife. Such usage would reflect a deeper understanding of love, in all its epistemological forms. We would love our global brothers and sisters more and shepherd our beloved Spaceship Earth better. Correlatively, marriage is no longer something that “you just do,” and its connection to love has never been iron-clad. Its role in organizing society and people’s lives has evolved significantly over time. How will love and marriage evolve henceforward, you ask? What am I, a clairvoyant here?

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“In the end, someone is ‘a good catch’ for at least some of these reasons, and it is foolish to think that marital bliss is guaranteed by love alone.”

cost of raising children (200 million won until the age of 18), and exorbitant real estate prices contribute to young Korean men and women delaying or avoiding marriage altogether. The phenomenon is so common that a new term has been born into the language: sampo. Meaning “the three releases,” the Sampo Generation has given up on courtship, marriage, and childbirth.

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THEN COMES MARRIAGE Do you remember the elementary schoolyard song that taunts two kids by chanting, “First comes love, then comes marriage, then comes baby in the baby carriage”? We were unwittingly proselytizing the Western life narrative in which you marry and have kids; furthermore, you marry someone you love. We do not consider things like one’s income, emotional stability, intellectual interests, communication skills, or religion, right? Wrong. In the end, someone is “a good catch” for at least some of these reasons, and it is foolish to think that marital bliss is guaranteed by love alone.

Until 500 years ago in the West, there was little, if any, correlation between romantic love and marriage. Matrimony was all about considerations like bequeathal of wealth to bloodline children, economic survival, physical survival in the cruel world, and the merging of family power and lands. Just two generations ago, a large percentage of Korean marriages were contrived by “matchmakers.”

Today, for millions worldwide, marriage means “arranged” marriage, based on factors like social class, age, and family wealth (a “love marriage” is specially termed so). Think dowry, sometimes from the bride, sometimes from the groom. In Korea, plenty of grooms are still expected to buy an apartment for the newlyweds.

Elsewhere, many cultures today still promote polyamory for economic, social, and gene-mixing reasons. In the animal kingdom, all but one primate species are polyamorous. It is simply a cultural convention that for the last 500 years Western culture has promoted the ideals of “true” love, “The One,” and “happily ever after.”

As a result, it has also invented the concept of divorce, which runs at a higher percentage of marriages entered than Shakespeare would have us imagine.

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Community Board

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February 2017

Have something you want to share with the community?

Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce clubs’ activities and special events.

Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered public small library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide family and children to develop the love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

GWANGJU INTERNATIONAL CENTER KOREAN CLASS The Gwangju International Center (GIC) provides Korean classes to international residents in Gwanjgu and the Jeolla provinces, helping them learn Korean and understand Korean culture. Please join our Korean classes to improve your Korean skills with our awesome Korean teachers!

GWANGJU FREECYCLE Swap, Don’t Shop!

March 11 10 am – 4 pm Gwangju International Center

Tuition Fee: Weekday classes 120,000 won (100,000 won for GIC members) Saturday classes 90,000 won (70,000 won for GIC members)

Office hours are 9.30 am – 6 pm Monday – Saturday, except holidays.

The GIC is also open on Sunday’s from 10 am – 5 pm

The days of KONA volunteering and the facilities are as follows: 1. KONA Storybook Center every Saturday 3 – 5 pm 2. Gwangju Children’s Home 1st, 2nd, and 4th Saturday, 3rd Sunday, 3 – 5 pm 3. Grandmother’s Community Children’s Center 4th Friday 4 – 6 pm

How to Register: Try online registration through the GIC website www.gic.or.kr or drop by the GIC

For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum.net/konavolunteers or our Facebook page of KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers or contact Kim Young-Im 062-434-9887 or email konacenter@gmail.com

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More Information: Park Yangim Email: language@gic.or.kr Telephone: 062-226-2733 GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook.

Donations are now being accepted on the GIC’s first floor.

Accepting gently used clothes, accessories, shoes, books, home goods, electronics, and appliances.

Free, but donations to the GIC are appreciated.

GWANGJU ANIMAL SHELTER VOLUNTEERING Every Sunday. Meet at the Alleyway at 12 for brunch and carpool to the shelter. Walk dogs between 1 – 4 pm. Please wear comfortable clothing.

See you there!

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Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes.

We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee

former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

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