Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I January 2018 #191 I Slow Delights: Damyang Food Master Ki Soon Do
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From the Editor
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January 2018, Issue No. 191 Published: January 1, 2018 Cover Photo: Master Ki Soon Do Korean Food Master from Damyang. Photographed by Lorryn Smit. Cover Art & Design: Karina Prananto
THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editors Online Editorial Team Layout Editor Photo Editor Creative Advisor Copy Editors
Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Eden Jones, Anastasia Traynin Nguyen Huong, Karina Prananto Karina Prananto Lorryn Smit Joe Wabe Brian Fitzroy, Gabrielle Nygaard, Alvina Joanna, Joseph Nunez, Kristyna Zaharek
Gwangju News is the first public English monthly magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.
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Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.
Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com E-mail: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702 GwangjuNews
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t’s 2018. Down comes the old wall calendar; up goes the new. It is a time of new beginnings – looks back over the past and the making of resolutions for the coming year. We at the Gwangju News resolve to do our utmost to bring you the latest news and most current information of the people and the Gwangju area, for the people of the area, and by the people of the area for your reading pleasure. We hope that you will be pleased with how we start out in this January issue. We take a look ahead, bringing you a rundown of the upcoming PyeongChang Olympics and how you can get involved. We offer a review of the novella Binti to kickstart your 2018 reading. For teachers, we have a checklist for self-improvement in the coming year. And we serve you up a bowl of tteokguk for an auspicious 2018! We take a look back on 2017 and bring you a “saucy” feature on Master Ki Soon Do of Changpyeong, whose delicacy was chosen to feed a visiting president. We bring you a review of the Gwangju Performance Project’s incredible year (and a peek at the one to come). We bring you great things to know anytime – past, present, future. Our second feature is sure to strike the right note; this overview of the venues in Gwangju for Korean indie music is music to the ear! From a different school of thought, we bring you an eye-opening look at alternative education in the region. And we take to so many other places this issue: to Vladivostok as a vacation destination, to Jeju for trail racing, to the Korean swimming pool for a chuckle at pre- and post-swim etiquette, to Barn Toom for some dining delight, to “down there” for some vaginal health tips. And we provide a lesson on getting to places in Korean. Yes, there’s more! Photography, poetry, a movie review, the theater schedule, Gwangju news and events. All this to add to a great beginning for your 2018.
David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News
CORRECTION
The article “Josh Garcia: Voyaging Onward,” appearing in the last issue of Gwangju News, stated that the left photo was taken by Tim Whitman while, in fact, it was taken by Paul Quay.
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Contents January 2018 #191
GWANGJU NEWS 04. Gwangju City News 06. Upcoming Events: January 08. Gwangju Theater Schedule 56. Community Board FEATURES 10. Slow Delights: Master Ki Soon Do 16. Korean Indie Music Venues in Gwangju COMMUNITY 22. Gwangju Live: Gwangju’s Own Cabaret 36. Health: Lady Bits – A Vaginal Health Resource Guide
10 Slow Delights
TRAVEL 25. Around Korea: Trans-Jeju Trail Race Journey 26. From Abroad: Vladivostok – Russia’s Underrated “City by the Bay” SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 32. Expat Living: 2018 Winter Olympics 34. Sports: Swimming in Korea and the Etiquette You Didn’t Know About FOOD & DRINKS 38. Where to Eat: Barn Toom 40. Korea Culture: An Auspicious Start to the New Year – Tteokguk
22 Gwangju’s Own Cabaret
January 2018
ARTS & CULTURE 46. Photo Essay: My Camera Roll 50. Photo of the Month 52. Book Review: Binti by Nnedi Okorafor – A Novella to Kickstart Your 2018 Reading Resolutions 53. Gwangju Writes: Desert Keep 54. Movie Review: Darren Aronofsky’s Mother! – Why Movie Fans Are Divided
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EDUCATION 41. Everyday Korean: Episode: 1 Traffic Excuses 42. Education and “Alternative” Education 44. KOTESOL: 2018 Checklist for Improvement as a Teacher
GWANGJU NEWS
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▲ Mayor Yoon (sitting, fifth from left) participated in the Gwangju Tsinghua Forum.
Gwangju City News
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January 2018
Reported by the International Relations Division of Gwangju City Photograph courtesy of Gwangju City
Gwangju-Tsinghua Automobile Forum Cementing Its Position as a Platform of Exchange The 2017 Gwangju-Tshinghua Automobile Forum, which is playing a pivotal role in furthering exchanges between Gwangju and China, was held following Mayor Yoon’s address to students of Tsinghua University in Beijing, China in October 2015. Gwangju City plans to continue offering various exchange programs with the National Cultural Industry Research Center of Tsinghua University, which co-hosted the Forum. Renowned for its academic contributions, the National Cultural Industry Research Center of Tsinghua University has become a scientific research model combining industry, academia, and research sectors, as well as serving as China’s think tank. The Center’s research, conducted by prominent experts and high-ranking administrators,
produce excellent research results in the relevant fields of cultural and creative industry, and non-real economy. While reflecting the government’s policies and promoting industrial development to enhance the Chinese cultural industry’s competitiveness and innovation capabilities, the Center will greatly boost Gwangju City’s China-friendly policy in the future.
Accelerating the Process of Gwangju City’s China-Friendly Policy As the once-deteriorated relations between Korea and China due to the THAAD (Terminal High Altitude Area Defense) dispute have recently improved, Gwangju City is reigniting its China-friendly policy. The “Gwangju Metropolitan City’s China Center” opened
5 to the public on November 21, 2017. The Center will contribute to mutual development and promote friendship between Gwangju and China, including Chinese cultural events, language education, cultural experience programs, and newsletters, all while promoting private exchanges to enhance the status of Gwangju as China’s major partnercity in the southwestern part of Korea. Gwangju City and the Chinese Consulate-General in Gwangju have supported the establishment of the Center. The Chinese Consulate-General provided exhibits to the China Center, and the Chinese Embassy in Korea donated over 1,000 books and DVDs. Gwangju and China continue their exchanges and cooperation in financial matters, culture, and tourism, and in other ways as well. Along with the opening of the above-mentioned center, the 2017 Gwangju-Tsinghua Automobile Forum was held on November 24–25 at the Kim Daejung Convention Center. This forum focused on the culture industry, humanities, and social sciences with ten Chinese citizens in attendance, including Mr. Xing Cheng Yu, Head of the National Cultural Industry Research Center of Tsinghua University. Gwangju City plans to accelerate its China-friendly policy by preparing a variety of themes for the Gwangju-Tsinghua Automobile Forum in the future, broadening exchange activities with China, and establishing an extensive network.
Earlier in January 2017, Mayor Yoon Jang-hyun was invited as the main speaker at the China “EV 100 Forum” held in Beijing, where he delivered an address on Gwangju’s environment-friendly vehicle policy. Gwangju signed an investment agreement with Joy Long Automobiles in March 2016. The company plans to invest 250 million U.S. dollars and construct a plant to manufacture 100,000 vehicles by 2020. On November 16, Mayor Yoon Jang-hyun met with Mr. Yang Shin Shin, President of the Chilwee Group, the leading battery manufacturer in the world, to discuss ways of cooperation in the field of electric cars. The two leaders are interested in creating an environment-friendly automotive industry, a new energy industry, and a smart city all within Gwangju and are currently in communication concerning technical and business cooperation, including the possibly of establishing an R&D center in Gwangju. A city official said that, as the saying goes, “even if the world changes, your neighbors will not change”; the relations between these two countries will deepen based on deeply rooted trust as brothers, neighbors, and friends.
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January 2018
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GWANGJU NEWS
Upcoming Events
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January 2018
Said Atabekov, Korpeshe Flags, 2009–2011, Song of Felt.
▲ Tattooed Asia
▲ Oh Chiho, Landscape of Yeongdo (Special Exhibition of the National Academy of Arts)
7 Boseong Tea Plantation Light Festival 보성차밭 빛축제 The Boseong Green Tea Plantation comes to life with the Boseong Green Tea Light Festival! A large Christmas tree, wish trees, themed streets, a galaxy tunnel, and hanging wish cards are planned activities as well as various performances and hands-on experiences for all visitors to enjoy. Date: Lighting Hours: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
Open now through January 14, 2018. 6–10 p.m. 775 Nokcha-ro, Boseong-eup, Boseonggun, Jeollanam-do Free 061-850-5211~5214 http://festival.boseong.go.kr/light/index. boseong
Song of Felt 송 오브 펠트 Song of Felt is an exhibition held in celebration of the 25th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between Korea and Central Asia. The pictures exhibit the identity of Central Asia that brings together the past memories and the present-time circumstances through the intangible heritages and contemporary art of the region. The words “felt” and “song” in its name are the exhibtion’s keywords. These two words symbolize Central Asia. Date: Time: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
Open now through February 4, 2018 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Wed. & Sat.: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.) Special Hall 1, Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Free 062-601-4527 https://www.acc.go.kr/en/board/ schedule/exhibition/1817
The ACC Creative Space Network Exhibition is an annual exhibition series aimed at sharing the latest trends in Asian cultures and arts, and for building a foundation by way of continued exchanges and cooperation among Asian countries through the works of creative spaces across Asia. This year’s event is held under the title Urban Implosion – Cities in Asia. Joining the activities will be 35 artists, representing 33 creative spaces across 19 Asian countries, including China, Korea, Kyrgyzstan, and Lebanon. Date: Time: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
Open now through January 28, 2018. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Wed and Sat: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.) Space 2, Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Regular: 7,000 won; Youth: 3,500 won; Children: 1,000 won 1899-5566 https://www.acc.go.kr/en/board/ schedule/exhibition/1645
Special Exhibition of The National Academy of Arts of the Republic of Korea 국립아시아문화전당 초대 대한민국예술원 특별전 This exhibition showcases the works of 41 deceased artists and 18 current artists, following the exhibition commemorating the 50th anniversary of the National Academy of Arts of the Republic of Korea at the Gwangju Museum of Art in 2004. Works of these members of Korea’s leading art institutes from various fields, such as Korean painting, Western painting, sculpture, crafts, calligraphy, and architecture will be presented. Date: Time: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:
Open now through January 28, 2018. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Wed and Sat: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.) Space 6, Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Free 1899-5566 https://www.acc.go.kr/en/board/ schedule/exhibition/1852
January 2018
This exhibition is a multi-angle review of Asia’s tattoo culture and its history through exhibits collected through local surveys in Japan, the Philippines, and Thailand. The pictures are not presented as mere exotic attractions but as gateways to understanding Asian culture in general. The exhibition brings together numerous photographs, illustrations, and videos of traditional tattoos, as well as a wide variety of exhibits, including the tools used for tattooing. Date: Open now through June 24, 2018. Time: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Location: Special Hall 3, Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Admission: Free Telephone: 061-530-5309 Website: https://www.acc.go.kr/en/board/ schedule/exhibition/1807
2017 ACC 창작공간네트워크 전시 Urban Implosion - 아시아의 도시들
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Tattooed Asia 아시아의 타투
2017 ACC Arts Space Network Exhibition Urban Implosion
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Gwangju Theater
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62 Chungjang-no 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC WAVE) TICKETS: 8,000 won CONTACT: 062-224-5858 For more information, please visit: http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb, and Hancinema
THE DOUBLE LOVER 두개의 사랑 Genre: Thriller Director: François Ozon Film Length: 110 minutes Starring: Marine Vacth, Jérémie Renier
deceased people checks in and the “social workers” in the lodge explain their situation. Once the newly dead have identified their happiest memories, workers design and replicate each person’s chosen memory, which is then staged and filmed.
Summary: Chloé, a fragile young woman, falls in love with Paul, her psychoanalyst. A few months later, she moves in with him but soon discovers that her lover is concealing a part of his identity.
A BEAUTIFUL STAR 아름다운 별 Genres: DSF, Drama Director: Daihachi Yoshida Film Length: 127 minutes Starring: Lily Franky, Kazuya Kamenashi, Ai Hashimoto
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January 2018
A GHOST STORY 고스트 스토리 Genre: Drama Director: David Lowery Film Length: 92 minutes Starring: Casey Affleck, Rooney Mara Summary: In this singular exploration of legacy, love, loss, and the enormity of existence, a recently deceased, white-sheeted ghost returns to his suburban home to try to reconnect with his bereft wife. WONDERFUL LIFE 원더풀 라이프 Genres: Drama, Fantasy Director: Hirokazu Koreeda Film Length: 118 minutes Starring: Abe Sadao, Iura Arata, Kyoko Kagawa Summary: A small mid-20th century social-servicestyle office is a waystation for the souls of the recently deceased, where they are processed before entering their personal heaven – a single happy memory re-experienced for eternity. Every Monday, a new group of recently
Summary: The Osugi family consists of a father, mother, son, and daughter who believe that they are aliens. Each family member is proud of being an alien but keeps their true identity a secret as they struggle to save humankind from nuclear weapons that can destroy the world. DARKEST HOUR 다키스트 아워 Genre: Drama Director: Joe Wright Film Length: 125 minutes Starring: Gary Oldman, Kristin Scott Thomas, Lily James Summary: During the early days of World War II, the fate of Western Europe hangs on the newly appointed British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, who must decide whether to negotiate with Hitler or fight on against incredible odds.
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FEATURE
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Slow Delights
Master Ki Soon Do Written by Karly Pierre Photographed by Lorryn Smit
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January 2018
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he road to Changpyeong is flanked by harvested fields. Mountains rise in the distance. The trees have lost their colorful fall leaves, and bright orange persimmons dangle from bare branches. An old lady wrapped in a puffy coat and warm hat slowly drives her scooter around a curve in the road. It’s a clear day, but biting cold. She passes a low-slung traditional house in the village and a sign pointing down an inconspicuous road leading to the headquarters of the Korea Traditional Food Company, owned by Mrs. Ki Soon Do. That’s where we turn. Changpyeong has been designated a “Slow City” since 2007 to acknowledge the little village’s dogged preservation of fading Korean traditions. Mrs. Ki champions a tradition essential to Korean cuisine: fermented sauces. At the entrance to the headquarters is a garden filled with hundreds of clay pots (onggi hangari, 옹기 항아리). They are fat and dark brown, beautifully arranged in long neat rows. Bunches of radish leaves (shiraegi, 시래기) sway under a gazebo as they hang out to dry in the early winter air. A worker in a white hairnet and full-length apron walks out of the front office to greet us. We follow her up a set of stairs to a hanok house overlooking the garden of pots. At the top of the stairs is a white Jindo dog. He lifts his head, his sagging eyes inquisitive, then lies down again, assured of our unimportance. Mrs. Ki is waiting inside the hanok and offers us a plate of sweet delicacies: bellflower root (doragi, 도라지) and persimmon covered in golden grain syrup (jocheong, 조청), roasted rice cake paired with darker grain syrup dipping sauce (ssal jocheong, 쌀 조청), honey cookies (yakgwa, 약과), and homemade sweet rice drink (ssal sikhye, 쌀 식혜). As the interview begins, my translator is a little flustered.
Mrs. Ki is something of a celebrity on the Korean food scene. She was given the title of “master” in 2008 by the Korean Food Grand Master Organization, and her products are praised by internationally renowned chefs such as Damien Duquesne. Her prized 360-year-old ganjang (간장, soy sauce) was the highlight of a recent state dinner for President Donald Trump.
“When my great-grandmother passed away, we built a house next to her grave and lived there like a dutiful family,” Mrs. Ki explains. “The local government tried to give my
Mrs. Ki’s marriage in 1972 to Ko Gab-seok was pivotal in shaping her future culinary career. Mrs. Ki and Ko met through a matchmaker. “In my generation, women didn’t leave the house often, so my mother taught us at home using the books that had been in the family for generations. There was no such thing for us as going on dates. People had arranged marriages, and the most important requirement for a woman was to be able to do housework well. It took three years for a matchmaker to find me a match. My mother told the matchmaker that I couldn’t even cook rice, so my motherin-law thought I couldn’t do anything. But when I gave her my kimchi to taste, she was shocked by how delicious it was.” Mrs. Ki laughs. Her husband graduated from Gwangju High School and later majored in Buddhism at Dongguk University. Before marrying, he studied in the mountains as a monk and developed a taste for the roasted bamboo salt that monks ate there. With his wife, he practiced and refined the technique of packing salt in winter bamboo and roasting it over a pinewood fire. Bamboo imbues salt with a subtle sweetness and clarity. Though Mrs. Ki’s husband died in 1999, the family has continued using bamboo salt to give their doenjang (bean paste) and ganjang (soy sauce) its distinctive flavor. “At first, my son refused to roast salt, but now he’s very diligent,” says Mrs. Ki. “When we roast the bamboo salt, we create lots of smoke, so we moved to this part of the village so we don’t disturb the neighbors. In front of our house is the graveyard of five generations of our family.” As the wife of the eldest son, Mrs. Ki received cherished family recipes from her mother-in-law. She was also given a vessel of the family’s oldest ganjang – now 360 years old. Until recently, passing along ganjang as a family heirloom was a common tradition in noble Korean families. As
January 2018
But the beginning of her love affair with food is a modest one that started as a child at the dinner table with her family. Her father was a Confucian scholar who imparted a strict sense of filial duty to all five of his children.
“I don’t remember when I started cooking because I was so young, but I learned a lot from my mother,” says Mrs. Ki. “She never used pickled shrimp or fish, so the taste of another person’s kimchi was unusual to us. My mother made foods like kimchi and sauces seasonally. I fondly remember when she made fermented bean-paste soup (cheonggukjang, 청국장) for us.”
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“Because you’re famous,” she says to Mrs. Ki, who smiles softly and shakes her head.
father an award for his integrity, but he wouldn’t accept it because he thought this was every child’s basic obligation.” Her family lived in the countryside and was considered well off, so maids prepared many of the family meals. However, every girl in the household was expected to learn to cook.
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Ki Soon Do Specialties: Traditional gochujang, strawberry gochujang, and traditional doenjang.
ganjang ages, it becomes thicker, sweeter, and more complex.
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January 2018
Korean ganjang is the byproduct of fermenting doenjang. The process of making doenjang begins in winter and takes about one year to complete. “We traditionally make meju (soybean blocks, 메주) in winter because, if you think about it, there are no flies or bugs, so it’s really the best time to make it,” says Mrs. Ki. “Our ancestors were really wise to think of everything in such great detail.” Mrs. Ki says there are three necessities for making good doenjang: good soy beans, good water, and good salt. In the past, she says, ganjang was considered a medicine because it contained beans and water, and took so much time to make. To begin the process, soybeans are boiled, mashed, and pressed into meju blocks that are hung to dry with rice straw rope. The straw attracts the bacteria needed for fermentation. Mrs. Ki ferments her meju for about one month. The meju blocks are then placed in clay pots with water, salt, jujubes, dried red peppers, and charcoal, and then fermentation continues. Mrs. Ki uses natural bedrock water drawn from 150 meters below ground. Fifty days later, the meju blocks and the water byproduct are separated. The soaked meju blocks are mashed and mixed with meju powder, then placed back in clay jars to continue fermenting as doenjang. The water byproduct is placed in another clay jar and after one year becomes the light amber ganjang known as sijang. Ganjang fermented for five years
is a darker rich color and known as jinjang. Mrs. Ki says that nature and the Jeolla Provinces’ unique character contribute to the taste of her doenjang and ganjang. Clay pots, she points out, affect the taste of the sauce. The shape of clay pots can vary from region to region, and Jeolla’s distinctly fat and heavy clay pots are the secret to the region’s exceptional culinary reputation. “The taste of the sauce differs if the clay used in making the pot is not good or not baked properly. The pots have to receive enough sunshine, and they have to be cleaned and managed well… From the pine trees surrounding our village, we get pine pollen in spring, and when we combine it with the sauce, it tastes delicious.” There are many superstitions surrounding the process of making doenjang and ganjang. For instance, the best time to make meju is on the winter solstice (Dongji). Also, those preparing doenjang or ganjang should be in a positive mindset. And most notably, Mrs. Ki says no one who has just attended a funeral should take part in the preparation of doenjang or ganjang because it would change the taste of the sauce. “In the past, people thought that if the sauce’s taste changed, there would be misfortune in the family. So, on the days when they made the sauce, they needed to bathe more thoroughly and pray. Since sauce was made once a year for a household, if anyone made a mistake in the process, the family would have to eat bad-tasting food for the whole year.”
15 Since founding the Korea Traditional Food Company in 1992 with her husband, Mrs. Ki’s products have become popular on grocery shelves throughout the country. Mrs. Ki’s ganjang was given the K-Ribbon certification, a national award given to culturally significant products. In addition to doenjang and ganjang, she also sells grain syrup, ssamjjang, bamboo salt, shikhye and gochujang— including strawberry gochujang.
“Most people tend to live in apartments and big buildings where it’s difficult to make sauce. To be delicious, the sauce must get adequate sunlight. That’s why these days it’s difficult to find delicious ganjang. People add salt and pickled shrimp to give it flavor. High quality ganjang is sold at department stores, but not everyone can afford it, so people simply just use salt to flavor their food. It’s unfortunate.”
“Damyang is quite famous for strawberries, so we thought why not use them. Strawberry gochujang (딸기고추장) is mild, so both foreigners and children like its taste.”
As we leave Mrs. Ki’s hanok and say goodbye, I point to her dog. He’s lying in the same spot, staring off at the garden of clay pots topped with stones – one for ganjang, two for doenjang and three for gochujang. Mrs. Ki shakes her head to assure me that he’s no threat, but I’d already concluded that he couldn’t muster the energy to be a vicious killer. He’s as slow as the rest of the village.
Mrs. Ki is happy that her children are involved with the company and eager to continue the family tradition. All of her children are learning the family’s recipes, and before a fatal accident, one of her sons received a doctorate in sauce making. “My children loved my kimchi when they were growing up,” says Mrs. Ki. “I prepared it exactly the way my mother did, seasonally and without sugar or pickled shrimp. My family prepares food very carefully… Even my grandchildren are interested in food and our business, so I’m not worried about the continuation of this tradition when I pass on.”
“What’s his name?” I ask. “Ahh.” She smiles. “Bokgu.” In Korean, bokgu means “restore.” I walk past Bokgu and wave goodbye. He scratches behind his ear and goes back to sleep.
She notes the dearth of quality traditional sauces available to Korean consumers and how her customers express a desire for the continued success of her company. With the nation’s change to a fast-paced lifestyle, slow foods can be out of step.
THE AUTHOR Karly Pierre has an MA in Mass Communication and has worked as an editor and writer for several publications. She is currently an assistant professor in the ESL department at Chosun University.
BURDOCK SOUP 우엉탕 Recipe by Master Ki Sun Do
1/2 burdock root (ueong, 우엉) 2 tablespoons soup soy sauce (cheongjang, 청장) 2 tablespoons perilla powder (deulkkae-garu, 들깨가루) 200 grams short necked clams (bajirak, 생 바지락살) 1 teaspoon minced garlic 3 cups water chopped chives water from washed rice
January 2018
Peel the burdock, and slice diagonally. Then immediately soak the cut burdock in a bowl of cold washed-rice water. This will prevent the burdock from turning black. After soaking for a few minutes, put the burdock and soup soy sauce in a soup pot, and add 3 cups of water. Simmer the burdock. When the burdock is soft, add perilla powder, garlic, and clams. Boil the soup on high heat. Serve the soup in a bowl, and garnish with chives. This recipe serves two people.
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Burdock root has been traditionally used in many cultures for a variety of medicinal purposes. Burdock is believed to be a blood purifier, heal skin ailments, and increase libido. In Korea, burdock tea is popular, but it is also used as an ingredient in soups.
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FEATURE
Indian Soonie at the May 18 Memorial Concert.
Soyoung at Yangnim Salon.
Korean Indie Music Venues in Gwangju
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January 2018
Written and photographed by Anastasia Traynin
I
am not a musician. I have nevertheless always loved music, and throughout my university days, I developed a passion for the energy and ambience of live rock shows at small, intimate venues. The decision to come to Korea for me had nothing to do with the K-pop monolith, in which I still have little interest. My first year in the mountains of Gangwondo necessitated trips to Seoul to get my fix for the local live music scene, and still, I barely scratched the surface. Since arriving in Gwangju in April 2013, I wanted to get a feel for the music venues this city had to offer. I’ve since learned that I missed by a few years the heyday of Gwangju’s indie rock scene, with many members moving up to Seoul or leaving music, and many promising bands starting and breaking up. Through participation in the online Angle Magazine project, I have expanded my enjoyment to bands from Seoul, Busan, Daegu, and other places. Yet Gwangju is still alive and kicking to this day, and I have enjoyed a solid run of shows, albums, and rounds of drinks. Here is a rundown of venues for seeing independent live music around the city and a peek
at some of the Korean artists that call Gwangju home. Due to the limited space and my own limited scope here, I have focused on the most well-known places, only within the city limits, and I have excluded the recently covered open mic nights largely attended by expats. For regular updates on local concerts in Gwangju, contact the individual venues, musician social media profiles, and the Facebook page Bitnaneun Indi (빛나는 인디, Shining Indie), mostly in Korean. Though they may never see this, I extend a heartfelt “thank you” to all the musicians who have been so welcoming at their shows and who keep the independent music fire burning in this city. CHONNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY AREA VENUES Club Boojik (청년 문화 공감 부드러운 직선) Tucked away in a basement in the middle of the secondto-last road leading out of the CNU Back Gate area, a short walk from the Buk-gu district office bus stop, Boojik started in 2010 as the project of local youth pastor Park Il-nam,
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Amazing Visual at This is Oasis at the Gwangju Local Music Festival.
who wanted to provide a space for young local musicians to practice their craft freely. Beyond music, it doubles as a small church. Since officially registering as a theater venue, the space has hosted countless shows, particularly the loud and raucous Punk Day event that started in 2012. Sometime in early 2015, the venue underwent an interior change and became even smaller and more intimate, continuing with a variety of quality punk shows, acoustic sets, and hip hop acts, often bringing together Gwangju and traveling bands. This is a well-loved space, with young, local musicians helping Park manage the show bookings and sound. (Note: Entrance fees run 10,000–20,000 won, depending on the acts. Drinks are allowed inside and are sometimes sold by the organizers.)
Address: 158-10 Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 용봉동 158-10 (전남대후문) Facebook: 에포게
The Beatles Though not advertised often on social media, this impressively spread-out second-floor bar has a projector, stage, and sound system, and has hosted a number of live music nights, most notably Gwangju–Seoul band exchanges. This space is located further up the way from the CNU Sandae residential area towards the Biennale. Check out our coverage of the bar and its John Lennon look-alike owner in the November 2016 issue of the Gwangju News. Address: (2F) 1405-11 Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 북구 용봉동 1405-11 2층 DOWNTOWN/YANGRIM/BONGSEON Peak Music (광주음악산업진흥센터) The new home of the indoor Gwangju Indie Music Festival and the outdoor Soundpark Festival (formerly Sajik Folk Festival), Peak Music takes up the first two floors of the Gwangju Foreign Network (GFN) building at Sajik Park,
January 2018
Epoche Another basement location in the CNU Back Gate area, in a building near the Yongbong Children’s Park, Epoche has a cozy café-style setting, hosting both film screenings and local musicians. It recently picked up more activity as a youth cultural space with collaborations between other arts organizations. Folk-rock, jazz, and blues are the usual style.
Address: (3F) 152-50 Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 용봉동 152-50번지 3층 Facebook: 기타살롱 유앤미
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
Address: (B1) 22-1 Hodong-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 북구 호동로 22-1 (중흥동 275-4) B1 Facebook: Club.BooJik Phone: 010-9434-4011
Guitar Salon You & Me A third-floor music education space in the Back Gate area, run by longtime local blues guitarist and singer Kim Geobong, the salon hosts Kim and fellow musicians, both local and national, for live music nights. Christmas Eve concerts here are a nice way to ring out the old year and to hear some truly talented guitar playing.
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▲ Sever the Ear at Boojik.
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January 2018
with its indoor concert hall located on the far left side of the building near the stairs. Longtime Club Nevermind manager Nam Yujin started up this project in 2015 and has been going strong with a recording studio, incubating musician program, and a steady stream of rock concerts in a professional two-floor space. See our August 2016 interview with Nam about Peak Music, whose full name in Korean means “Gwangju Music Business Promotion Center.” (Note: The festivals this year were free, but regular performances can run 25,000–30,000 won as they are often national touring acts. Drinks are not allowed inside the concert hall but are sometimes sold in the lobby, which becomes a lounge area during events.) Address:17 Sajik-gil, Nam-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 남구 사직길 17 광주음악산업진흥센터 Facebook: peakmusic Email: peakmusic@naver.com Web: www.peakmusic.co.kr/ Phone: 062-654-3625 Bohemian Since opening in August 2014, this spacious basement venue directly across the street from the Asia Culture Center bus stop downtown has been busy with a wide variety of live music events, including national tour acts but primarily nurturing local musicians. In particular, its series of Wednesday night concerts, mostly taking place in spring and summer, have given musicians as young as high school age a chance to share their talents in a professional space. Led by local long-time musicians and supporters Kwak U-yeong and Kim Nam-guk, Bohemian also has a recording studio that puts out local releases. On January 27, rock vocalist Kim Chang-hoon of legendary band
Sanwoolim will play an album release show with his new band, The Blackstones, with the opener being the Gwangju local singer-songwriter, Soyoung. (Note: Entrance fees vary widely, between 10,000–15,000 for local shows and 30,000+ for national touring acts. A vending machine sells drinks, and sometimes musicians prepare drinks to sell in the lounge area.) Address: 43 Munhwa-jeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 문화전당로 43 Facebook: Bohemiian Web: cafe.daum.net/bOHEmiAN Gwangju Cinema Many people know of the Gwangju Cinema as the one and only arthouse movie theaters in the city, but few are aware of its backyard garden with a movie viewing room that also sometimes hosts local music concerts. The first- and second-floor lobbies of the theater, and the theater stage in cold weather, are used for post-screening talks with visiting filmmakers, which are often accompanied by live sets by Gwangju musicians. Last-Wednesday-of-the-month culture nights at the cinema have increased visibility of the city’s musical offerings. See our August 2017 issue of the Gwangju News for more information about the Gwangju Film Station project at Gwangju Cinema. Facebook: cinemagwangju Email: rotkb574@hanmail.net Web: http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju Phone: 062-224-5858 Speakeasy This long-time downtown Gwangju foreigner bar has always been a popular live music venue, with Korean rock
19 and punk bands frequenting a few years back. The bar has seen another serious uptick in almost weekly concerts with new ownership in 2017. Favorite all-girl band, Walking After U, has played several gigs here, and both Korean and international bands often hit the Speakeasy stage. Address: (2F) Chungyang-ro 160-beongil (Hwanggeum-dong), Dong-gu, Gwangju Facebook: speakeasygwangju Phone: 010-7511-8309
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Asia Culture Center Outdoor Music The Asia Culture Center is now the most visible art and culture space in the city, let alone downtown, and the annual end-of-summer outdoor World Music Festival is now under the ACC name. Other regular outdoor music performances, professional and amateur performances, and busking take place along the bridge near the bus stop and out on the 5.18 Democracy Plaza. In May each year, a stage is set up on the square for nightly classic folk and indie concerts to commemorate the May 18 Democratic Uprising. Various festivals invite local musicians to play, and the ACC space seems to continue making its cultural mark on the city. Address: 38 Munhwa-cheondang, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 문화전당로 38 Facebook: asiaculturecenter.eng Phone: 1899-5566 In The Groove As the only regular live jazz club in town, In The Groove and its owner Joon host local jazz bands in this cozy, dark basement haunt down the street from Speakeasy every Friday and Saturday night. The extensive drink menu, particularly the 10,000-won cocktails, is the only price to pay for the always no-cover concerts. See our previous coverage of the bar in the August 2012 issue of the Gwangju News.
Address: 90 Hwanggeum-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 황금동 90 Facebook: JazzInTheGroove Phone: 062-227-7959 Yangrim Salon Yangrim-dong is a historical, Western missionary-based neighborhood that includes Sajik Park and now boasts an increasing number of small restaurants and cafes that welcome intimate local concerts. On Wednesday culture nights, Yangrim Salon opens the cafes to a full night of music around the neighborhood. See our August 2017 issue of the Gwangju News for more information about Yangrim Salon. Address: Yangrim-dong, Nam-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 남구 양림동
Facebook: @salon1930 Email: salon1930@naver.com Web: 1930salon.modoo.at Hamel Art Hall Also a recording studio and connected with a music hagwon, this basement venue that I first visited recently is in the middle of Bongseon-dong near the middle school. It seems to attract an older crowd but also holds concerts by young upcoming musicians, sometimes inviting talented foreigners living in Gwangju or visiting from abroad. It has a proper concert hall and bar feel, somewhat cozier than a rock venue but still boasting a good-sized stage and sound. Address: 1041-6 Bongseon-1-dong, Nam-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 남구 봉선1동 1041-6 Facebook: 하멜아트홀 Web: http://cafe.naver.com/hmhall Phone: 010-2559-8544 // 062-671-8548
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
Wheezy May at Oreum Rooftop.
20 DONGMYEONG / GYERIM Barn Toom The folk-pop trio Badak Project (BDP) have been making their mark on Gwangju since 2013, starting out as buskers in the CNU and Daein Market areas, releasing two albums, and developing a regular last-Saturday-monthly Golbang house concert (골방음악회). Their performance space has changed at least twice throughout the years but has recently settled in at the café/restaurant/bar Barn Toom, opened by band leader Lim Woong earlier this year. The next monthly show will be the eighty-eighth running, with no signs of stopping. The Golbang house concerts are lively and fun, with plenty of banter and sing-alongs. See this month’s “Where to Eat” column for a review of Barn Toom’s food and drink selections. (Note: Near the end of each month, a homemade poster goes up on social media, calling for seat reservations on Badak Project’s Naver Café. Reservations are not required but are appreciated due to the small space. Entrance is free and officially bring your own drinks, but after-parties with shared food and drink are common.)
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January 2018
Address: Donggyecheon-ro 83-2-beongil, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 동명동 동계천로 83-2번길 Oreum Education Space Gwangju has a network of small alternative high schools, with many teaching art and music to their students. Oreum (교육공간 오름) is a school particularly focusing on music, founded in 2009 with a variety of subject teachers and now including two dedicated music teachers, Park Soyoung and Choi Seung-min, who also formed Gwangju independent rock band Ian (이안). With an assortment of instruments and a small recording studio, nice weather allows Oreum to hold lively and relaxing rooftop concerts with local musicians, including the two teachers, using the basement space for student performances or a larger crowd. At Oreum, both teachers and students are able to network widely with other local artists and educators. (Note: Entrance fees are 10,000–15,000 won, usually including shared food and drink after the concert, in a familial setting. Oreum is soon set to move out of Dongmyeong. Stay tuned for the new location.) Address: (3F) 49 Dongmyeong-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju (Going from Jang-dong rotary towards Nongjang Bridge, it is located in the three-story building across from Gajokhoegwan) 광주광역시 동구 동명로 49 (3층) Facebook: @orumedu Web: http://www.orumedu.org Phone: 062-236-2728
Daein Market The revival of the traditional Daein Market, a few blocks from downtown near Geumnamro 5-ga, has resulted in the development of a weekly Saturday Night Art Market, (대인야시장). Local music performances, ranging from folk, rock, and pop to classical and choral, take place at three main locations inside the market: Dreamers, the outdoor space across from the central parking lot (also referred to by regulars as the “main stage”), and the space near the side entrance. The market takes a break during the coldest winter months, but attracts a large number of people for the free concerts throughout the year. Address: 190-7 Daein-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 대인동 190-7 Facebook: @ByeolJang2014 Web: blog.naver.com/byeoljang/221096610181 Phone: 062-233-1420 WEST OF DOWNTOWN/SANGMU/GWANGSAN-GU Youth Café This Is Oasis / 청춘 카페 여기는 오아시스야 A café that opened earlier this year as part of Yang-dong’s brightly colored Youth Balsan Village neighborhood revitalization project, This Is Oasis has already played host to a number of intimate local concerts. Notably, the café was this year’s venue for the Gwangju Neighborhood Music Festival (광주 동네 뮤직 페스티벌), an acoustic gathering of some of the best players on the local scene that makes a point of overlapping with the last night of the ACC World Music Festival. This year’s acts included Amazing Visual, Kim Tae-seung of Kim & Lee, and guitarist Pyeong Yeongdo, among others. See more detailed coverage of Balsan Village in the December 2017 issue of the Gwangju News. Address: 12-16 Cheonbyeon-jwaro, Seo-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 서구 천변좌로 12-16 Facebook: @BStown1516 Email: contact@free-zoom.com Web: www.balsanvillage.com Phone: 070-4910-0339 Rolling Stones Good news for those living farther west and not in the mood for the trek downtown. Rolling Stones, a brand-new live club in the heart of Sangmu, recently had a full opening festival season, with the first October 27 concert featuring local metal band Heavy Gauge and a November 25 indie rock festival with Seoul band Wasted Johnny’s, and local rock club regulars, Dirty Rockhon, Monkey Pee Quartet, and the newly formed Vincit Omnia. The venue seems to be off to a promising start, also including talk concerts and live jazz.
21 Address: (B2) 68 Sangmuyeonha-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 서구 상무연하로68 (B2) Facebook: gjrollingstones Phone: 010-6543-8754 Sochon Art Factory/Gwangsan-gu Rock Festival Suwan Lake, outside of the Lotte Outlet store, has been the outdoor scene of the mid-fall Gwangsan Rock Festival, which has featured a mix of national and local independent acts for a few years running. There did not seem to be a festival in 2017. See the December 2016 Gwangju News coverage of the 2016 concert, featuring full-band sets by the above-mentioned Amazing Visual, and Kim and Lee, and its takeover by the new Sochon Art Factory space, an emerging creative outlet working with the Gwangsan District Office to bring a more vibrant cultural scene to that expanding part of town. Address: Sochon-ro 85-beongil 14-9, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 광산구 소촌로 85번길 14-9 Facebook: Sochon Artfactory (럭키 소촌) Email: soartfactory@naver.com Web: 062saf.wixsite.com/sochon/blank Phone: 062-960-3686 IN MEMORIAM/LEGEND Culture Club Nevermind 2002–2017. Nevermind is the legendary, premier Gwangju rock club. After fifteen years of hosting over ten annual Gwangju Indie Music Festivals, incubating several local bands as “Nevermind” bands and releasing their records under the Nevermind label, Nevermind has said goodbye as a regular venue, though there will still be occasional performances at the club on a smaller scale. See various coverage of Nevermind concerts in back issues of the Gwangju News.
Under99 with AlterEgo Sound 2013. This was a small and properly dark basement venue on a side alley of Art Street that held a wide variety of shows, including a unique traveling performance by San Marcos, Texas experimental band This Will Destroy You. The AlterEgo Sound Studio related to this venue moved to the Once Music Studio and music hagwon, located in Gwangsan-gu’s Suwan district, run by Gwangju electrorock trio Rubber Stick. Performances have moved to the other existing venues. Facebook: @AlterEgoSound.net Salt Gallery Sept. 2014 – April 2016. Located in a first-floor space off the beaten path on a quiet road across from Gwangju High School, Salt Gallery held the only experimental open mic day in Gwangju, modeled off of Hongdae Yogiga Gallery’s Bulgasari, as well as a variety of local and traveling performances by Koreans and internationals that mixed with the art on the walls. Stay tuned for a possible upcoming reboot. Check out the story about Johan Ahn’s short-lived but fruitful Salt project in our March 2015 issue of the Gwangju News. THE AUTHOR
Anastasia (Ana) Traynin is the comanaging editor of Gwangju News. She has been a contributor to the magazine since fall 2013 and has been living in Gwangju since spring of that year. After teaching for three years at Hanbitt High School, she became a GIC coordinator in May 2016. She has passions for Korean social movements, alternative education, live music, languages, and writing.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
The Monkey Pee Quartet at Bohemian.
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Gwangju’s Own Cabaret
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January 2018
COMMUNITY
Written by Douglas Baumwoll Photographed by Ben Robins
The GPP on stage at this year’s Cabaret venue, Party Town 57.
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Come taste the wine. Come hear the band... Life is a cabaret, old chum, Come to the cabaret...*
A Circus.
nd so I did. The date: December 16th. The troupe: Gwangju Performance Project. The place: Party Town 57 Building. The event: The 4th Annual Cabaret – Welcome to the
The modern day version of cabaret, eating food and drinking alcohol while watching live entertainment in a public house, dates back to the mid-1800s in the great city of Paris. And right here in Gwangju, for the last four years, our own community theater group, the Gwangju Performance Project (GPP), has held its annual cabaret downtown. The GPP is an all-volunteer community theater group, founded in late 2010, and the cabaret this year was themed on the circus. I am fortunate enough to have attended all four of these shows, and each year I am, quite simply, blown away by the talent of our Gwangju peers on stage. I am also blown away by the quality of the baked goods that are lavished on each table, included in the price of admission. And why do we donate our money? Because the GPP puts on some serious shows throughout the year. 2017’s fare included Taming of the Shrew, Counterparts, and No Man’s Land (go to the Facebook group, Gwangju Performance Project, or www.gwangjutheatre.com for more info). And they have costs. Stage building, costumes, transportation, printing, photography, videography, and theater rental all add up in the final tally. So what did we, the audience, get for the price of admission this year?
January 2018
The atmosphere was definitely circus-like. There was even a bearded-lady bartender to go along with the signature cocktail being served by the same name – a vodka, juice, fuzzy-navelish libation – of which more than one went down my gullet. I am not going to run down a list of names here; you can go to the Facebook group and check out the cabaret program if you’d like to see individual names of performers and song titles. I’ll just give you an overall feeling of the night. First off, there was fun. Fun and laughter. Folks calling out from the audience in good spirit to urge on and support the performers. Numbers ranged from solo acts to a two-person dance piece slow song, to a country song bit, to another bearded lady (singing this time), to the light-hearted
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Well, we got 17 acts, about two hours, of jaw-dropping, smileinducing, thigh-slapping, hand-clapping entertainment. Costumes and song selections were often in line with the theme, especially in the attire of our ringmaster, current GPP co-president and cabaret director/producer, Monique Dean Onyema, who led the show complete with top hat and riding crop! Those 19th-century Parisian cabaret goers would be proud!
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Thando Mlambo dazzles the crowd in an impressive dance.
January 2018
The GPP’s performers graced the stage in all manner of attire and singing styles. Many of them had theater, dance, and singing experience prior to arriving in Gwangju, during their university years or after, but the GPP also has members who never performed before their experiences here in Gwangju. The quality of singing and dancing in the cabaret (and acting in other performances) is very high, and productions come off as professional endeavors and not unpolished thrown-together-at-the-last-minute self-indulgent affairs difficult to watch. Looking at the program, I count over 30 different names involved in putting this show on, including folks doing lights, sound, graphic design, and ticket sales.
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“Bring on the Men,” to the final number, a rendition of Tom Petty’s “Free Fallin’,” complete with an electric band and some 20+ performers.
Finally, let me mention the venue, which adds to the circus-like feeling of every cabaret held here. The room occupies the space of two floors in a high-rise building right in the center of downtown Gwangju. There is a large bar, and a sprawling floor with ample space for 20–25 tables, plus bench seating along the sides. The roof must stand at 15 meters, and the stage is giant, complete with the largest video screen I have ever seen outside of a stadium concert venue. This all adds to the scale of the production, and the professionalism and quality of the
performances. If you have never made it to a GPP cabaret, then I think you can tell that I am suggesting you do so the next time you get a chance. Monique tells me that the GPP sold 115 tickets, 100 of which were reserved. She and her copresident Robyn Bramwell will be organizing a Pen in Ten performance for Summer 2018. What is that? Well, it is open to anyone. So if you’ve ever fancied yourself a playwright, you just need to submit a drama script for a 10-minute piece. The GPP will choose about ten winning scripts that will then be performed in June 2018. Check their Facebook page anytime after mid- to late-January for the official announcement or any other information about the GPP. I hope you all enjoy 2018 in good health and spirits. And remember: “Life is a cabaret, old chum.” So don’t miss the cabaret! THE AUTHOR Doug Baumwoll, a professional writer and editor for 25 years, trains in-service teachers in writing skills and methodology. His personal writing interests include visionary and speculative fiction, climate change, energy, and social justice. He is the founder of SavetheHumanz.com.
Around Korea
25
TRAVEL
Ryan Thompson running his first-ever Trans-Jeju Trail Race.
Written and photographed by Ryan Thompson
their daily routine, I scrambled to get my body and mind ready for what could be a ten-hour journey. I was at the starting line for my first-ever trail run on Jeju Island. I had only completed one marathon in my life, so the 100-kilometer had previously never entered my mind. I entered the 50-kilometer category. They call it an ultra-marathon, though 50K is only about eight kilometers more than a normal marathon. What makes this race “ultra” is the 1500 meters of elevation gain up,
January 2018
T
hey were dressed in an array of colors and strapping up for what looked to be a cross between a rave and a midnight jailbreak. I finished tying my shoes and looked around. Everyone had hydration packs and headlamps, too. A thought flashed through my mind: what was wrong with these people? They looked ridiculous and were about to do something by choice that most people wouldn’t even pay for. After glancing in the mirror, I realized I looked even more ridiculous than any of them. Wide-eyed in the darkness as the roosters started
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Trans-Jeju Trail Race Journey
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▲ 50 km Course Map.
and then back down, Mt. Halla, the tallest mountain in South Korea. People living and working in South Korea might compare my decision to participate in this race to the following: If you are already going to pick up your life to live a sixhour plane ride away from family, why not make it 14 hours? No one in my daily life seemed to understand the reason why I was training for this. However, here I was, surrounded by 500 other people that completely understood. This was a subculture I was now a part of.
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January 2018
Queue to the “Rocky” soundtrack for the starting line. Bang! Trotting along within the first few kilometers of the race in a single-file line, I heard some loud discussion up ahead. As I got closer, I saw a circle forming and thought this couldn’t be good. One voice said, “We need to go this way,” and another disagreed. Everyone was checking their Garmin GPS watches as I stared at my bare wrists. Pitch-black and lost in the middle of the woods isn’t how I imagined the start of the race, but our lives rarely go according to plan. For the longest time, I laughed at the sheep lingering about. However, after missing that marker, I had an epiphany. We are all secretly sheep that want to be led. Luckily, I “sheeped” myself behind a few people who looked like they had half a clue. We made it to the first checkpoint with minimal time lost. Unfortunately, I fall victim to most motivational and goaloriented talks of people who have “the answers.” Cliché, but true, babble is what you are about to read. One of the rolodex reasons why I run long distances was echoed by
a fellow runner. As we traversed down the mountain terrain, I said, “I am going to ask you a question that everyone asks me: ‘What is wrong with you? Why do you want to run that far?’” She responded with “Oh, I don’t know, probably the list of all corny answers. I run to push my limits.” Absolutely. I started running two years ago for that reason. Challenging a path of least resistance voluntarily is a privilege in many of our lives today. If you are reading this article, there is a good chance you didn’t forage for food today or struggle to fix a broken wheel on your wagon while moving everything you own. Our food is served to our faces; we are totally removed from the farmers, truck drivers, and wholesalers who grind and package it. Our wants are one click away. Do you want a new TV? Click. Do you want a drone? Click. Boredom is not something you should be feeling. If you are, go for a run. As the journey continued, the single-file, tight-knit group of 500 dispersed as we ascended Mt. Halla. This gave us breathing room but no time to stop. “Name of the game is to keep moving forward,” I told myself. Life cliché after cliché. The beautiful views were tough to take in as competitors had to hop and skip over rocky terrain. Finally! I reached the summit. I took a quick look around and then was on the move again. While I was training for my first marathon ever in South Korea last year, someone told me it was a tremendous accomplishment because she had heard only one percent of the world has ever completed a marathon. In my
27 opinion, it isn’t much of an accomplishment because most of the world doesn’t want to complete a marathon. In general, I would say that if someone wanted to complete one, they could. Can anyone break a world record? No, but maybe I think that just because that is what my life experience has been. If I broke a world record, my words might echo, “Anyone can break a world record!” Isn’t that how it usually goes? We think we are so special, but at the same time, we believe anyone else can accomplish the things we have because we aren’t special at all.
Failure was never an option. The trip down the mountain felt good and hot ramen at the checkpoint felt even better. There wasn’t much time to stop and chat before I was into the woods again. It was midday, so no, there were no pitch-black deep-forest sheep-following issues as before. However, there were new obstacles to overcome. The next check point was approaching, and by my calculations, there should have only been about 10 kilometers left. My plan was to get a few bananas in me and lock in for a triumphant Rocky reenactment. Suddenly, I overheard runners around me talking about there being 20K left. Mental crippling suddenly came out of nowhere. Well, it looked like my gorilla calculations weren’t accurate. Not only was I discouraged about the distance, but my mind went from the thoughts of my incredible time to me being the worst ultra-runner ever. From hero to zero in the blink of an eye. Nothing changed in reality, only my reality. I settled into a long, pissed-off trot.
Some call it “runner’s high,” and for the last few years, I have been chasing something similar. I call it a manual roll. As I crossed the finish line of the Trans-Jeju race there was no filled stadium, just a few finishers and family members looking on. If completion was the victory, what a sad story it would have been. However, the corny cliché rang true again: The journey is the reward and not the destination. There were many early mornings waking up to train for the runs and the random moments of fatigue, bent over gasping, chugging strawberry milk, and wolfing triangle kimbap. And yet, I look back on those times fondly. Funny thing is, I didn’t do half bad for my firstever trail race, finishing in at 80th place out of over 300 competitors in the 50K Trans-Jeju trail run. Completing that race meant very little to me. What I like to think meant the most was the person I became along the way and the transferable life lessons learned and retaught. Jeju was a beautiful island, and that was the first time I had combined travel with an athletic achievement. If you find yourself bored at an all-inclusive resort during your corporate vacation like I did years ago, maybe training for an athletic vacation is for you. Completing an athletic accomplishment is a lot like long-term travel. Rolf Potts says it better than I ever could in his book, Vagabonding:
See you on the starting line for the Trans-Jeju next October. ◀ Korean-style Halla-san summit break time.
January 2018
“Thus, it’s important to keep in mind that you should never go vagabonding out of a vague sense of fashion or obligation. Vagabonding is not a social gesture, nor is it a moral high ground. It’s not a seamless twelve-step program of travel correctness or a political statement that demands the reinvention of society. Rather, it’s a personal act that demands only the realignment of self. If this personal realignment is not something you’re willing to confront (or, of course, if world travel isn’t your idea of a good time), you have the perfect right to leave vagabonding to those who feel the calling.”
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Failure was never an option. However, my slogging jog soon became a walk that could have been taken out of a survival movie. Negative thoughts continued to creep in. No one was passing me, and I certainly wasn’t passing anyone that was moving forwards. Swearing to myself and fully believing I was in last place was my current state.
To top it all off, a small 70-year-old Asian woman came gliding by me; dove behind a group of trees for a brief second and came out with a walking stick. Nothing like a 70-year-old woman running circles around a 30-yearold man in an endurance race. Life cliché number 3219: life is your own race. Blocking out the pathetic vision of this warrior woman twice my age, half my height, and three times as much mental strength, I soldiered on. The best part of all; she was clueless to my perceptual story. Accepting the reality of things, I found myself reduced to an all-time low speed, but at least I was moving forward – the only positive I could hold onto at the time.
28 From Abroad
Vladivostok
Russia’s Underrated “City by the Bay” Written and photographed by Isaiah Winters
B TRAVEL
elieve it or not, there’s a wormhole at Incheon Airport. Step through it, and in about two hours, you’ll find yourself in Eastern Europe. Despite this anomaly, Vladivostok, Russia gets surprisingly short shrift when vacation time rolls around. There are a few likely reasons for this. For starters, most vacationers departing from Korea’s better half are keen to go anywhere but north, for obvious reasons. Others might be put off by the high-cost hassle of getting a Russian visa, which can suck the spontaneity out of things. What’s more, English – the world’s dominant linguistic reserve currency – is known to afford visitors surprisingly little in Russia.
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January 2018
Then there are the risk-averse travelers who see Russia through dashcam-tinted glasses and promptly write the country off. Sprinkle in a few politically-minded
Afternoon view from Eagle’s Nest.
peripatetics who avoid the world’s largest country because of its current regime, and what you get is the Russian doppelganger of San Francisco largely to yourself. The parallels between the two cities are quite striking. Both are hilly Pacific Coast cities located on peninsulas roughly 12 kilometers wide. Each peninsula overlooks a bay spanned by an iconic bridge with the word “golden” in its name. Also, the two cities represent extreme endpoints for unfathomably long cross-country railroads. Furthermore, both cities have had longstanding influences from Asian populations, most notably the Chinese. However, what sets Vladivostok apart, not just from San Francisco but also from cities in Northeast Asia, is its militarism, its Europeanness, and – dare I say it – its romanticism.
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One of many beautiful Orthodox cathedrals.
▲ Voroshilov Battery on Russky Island.
While Russia is often considered to be neither Western nor Eastern, Vladivostok’s contrast to other major cities in the region amplifies its relative Europeanness.
Since the fall of the USSR, the cityscape has been updated with a few massive projects commissioned during the Putin era, most of which date back to the 2012 APEC Summit. Individually, each architectural style is emblematic of a regime that came to power in European Russia over the last century. Together, they help give the city a very eclectic look that, outside of Harbin and Khabarovsk, hardly anywhere in Northeast Asia can match.
January 2018
Anyone interested in Russian military (and especially naval) history will find the city scattered with interesting museums, monuments, and mounted guns. Vladivostok Fortress, submarine S-56, the naval dockyard, and Voroshilov Battery on Russky Island are among the best sites. The latter is admittedly hard to reach via public transport, but it’s well worth the effort.
Architecture is one case in point. Sitting cheek and jowl with elegant Tsarist-era edifices and onion-domed orthodox cathedrals are the more formidable structures of the Stalinist era. Beyond these are the rather leprouslooking apartment blocks of the Khrushchev era, along with the austere brutalist structures from the era of stagnation.
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Regarding its militarism, the vast and varied nature of Russia has always required strong, centralized rule. “Ruler of the East,” or Vladivostok, embodies this fact, as distance and demography disadvantage Russia the further east one goes. To compensate, the city has been well fortified on land and is also home to Russia’s Pacific Fleet.
▲ Vladivostok Station.
TRAVEL TRAVEL
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www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
▲ Young Russian couple putting on a show at Eagle’s Nest.
The thing that may surprise visitors most about Vladivostok is how romantic many of its sites are. One example is Eagle’s Nest, an observation point that overlooks the city, Golden Bridge, and Golden Horn Bay. Eagle’s Nest showcases the softer side of Russians, as it’s a popular destination for couples, families, and wedding parties. It’s served by a funicular – one of only two in the whole of Russia, supposedly – though it’s sometimes out of service, so you may have to make the worthwhile hike yourself. Another good place for couples to visit is Admirala Fokina Street, which is Vladivostok’s humble equivalent to Moscow’s Arbat Street. This quaint pedestrian street is full of shops, cafes, eateries, and bars that all lead down to a picturesque esplanade. Known as the Sports Quay, the esplanade is perfect for a walk along the water or as a place to sit and take in the sunset. It’s also a good place to have an affordable steak dinner with some drinks while overlooking the bay. For those who live to eat, there’s plenty to live for in Vladivostok. Good seafood, especially salmon and salted herring, is abundant here, as are soups and dumplings of all kinds. To anyone who’s homesick for proper grain-
and dairy-based foods, this will be your sanctuary in the region. Also, Russians are just as keen on food preservation as Koreans, so you will find just about everything pickled that can be pickled. Naturally, these go well with vodka, if drinking is your thing. Something that should not be missed in Vladivostok is the chance to try North Korean food. One restaurant in particular, Pyongyang Café, is a must-see for its cheesy decorations and statuesque waitresses. They’ll likely speak to you in Russian at first, but you should consider ordering your food in Korean for the added challenge of deciphering their accents. There are a few important things to keep in mind when dining and shopping in Vladivostok. As noted earlier, English is still pretty useless in Russia. But unlike in Japan, where politeness often makes up for stark language divides, Russia is still developing a customer-friendly service industry. This means your Russian waiter or clerk will sometimes give off the impression that he is doing you an undue favor rather than simply doing his job. The silver lining to this is that Russians do not force smiles or politeness the way people in other countries
31
A Russian Post railcar ready for departure at Vladivostok Station.
Pyongyang Café.
Ultimately, the big takeaway I got from Vladivostok was how much promise the city has. Open to foreigners only since 1992, the city that once hid the secrets to the Soviet Union’s Pacific Fleet has come a long way in a short time.
Now accessible from the airports in Incheon and (occasionally) Muan, as well as from the ferry port in Donghae, Russia’s underrated “City by the Bay” is a secret hidden in plain sight. THE AUTHOR
Originally from Southern California, Isaiah Winters first came to Gwangju in 2010. He recently returned to Korea after completing his M.A. in Eastern Europe. He enjoys writing, political science, and urban exploring.
January 2018
By the way, tipping is expected in Russia, so consider giving an extra 10–15 percent in cash directly to your server when the service is good. If the service is terrible, consider returning the undue favor with a lousy tip. Perhaps the server will find your honesty refreshing as well.
Given its rather matchless position in the region, it has a lot of potential to capitalize on all that sets it apart.
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often do. In fact, if you walk down the street smiling in Russia, people will think you are mental (or a tourist). To some visitors, this forthrightness can be refreshing, while to others, it can come off as a little rude.
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January 2018
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
32 Expat Living
2018 Winter Olympics Written by Stephen Schelling Photos courtesy of PyeongChang 2018
T
he 2018 Olympic Winter and Paralympic Winter Games will be held in Pyeongchang (평창), Gangwon Province this upcoming February and March, respectively. For the 51 million people living in Korea, most can get there within a relatively short time by bus, car, or train, which makes this an excellent opportunity for those living on the peninsula to attend such an extraordinary international event. Simply having a bus ticket won’t get you in, though. What do you need to know beforehand? Here is some helpful information for those who want to attend. The 2018 Winter Games begin on February 9 and continue until February 25 while the Paralympic Winter Games begin March 9 and end on March 18. It is Korea’s second time to host Olympic Games (the 1988 Summer Games
were in Seoul), but it will be the country’s first Winter Games. Most of the games will take place in Pyeongchang, located near the northeast coast of Korea, in over a dozen different venues, the majority of which will take place at the Alpensia Sports Park. All of the ice events will take place in nearby Gangneung (강릉) at the Gangneung Olympic Park. In the longrun, the city of Pyeongchang hopes to become a hub for winter sports enthusiasts in Asia after the 2018 Games have finished. This year’s Winter Games will have over 100 events in seven different sports, such as cross-country skiing, ice hockey, and the luge. Seven different sports are split among 15 disciplines, so there will be many variations of the same primary sport, such as the six forms of skiing. The Paralympic Games have 80 events in five different sports, including alpine skiing, snowboarding, and
33
▲ The PyeongChang Olympic Relay also came to Gwangju in November 2017.
wheelchair curling. Tickets have been on sale for well over a year for both the Paralympic Games and the Winter Games. The best way to purchase remaining tickets is to go to the official PyeongChang 2018 website (link provided at the end of this article). The site is available in a variety of languages including English, Korean, and French. There is a plethora of information provided on the site, but it’s pretty easy to navigate. Some of the essential information is in the Spectator Guide section, which offers information on ticketing, transportation, accommodations, schedule of events, further details on the venues and sports, and even information for extending travel and touring throughout Korea.
Official 2018 Olympic Winter and Paralympic Winter Games website: https://www.pyeongchang2018.com/en Official PyeongChang 2018 Tickets website: https://tickets.pyeongchang2018.com/?culture=en-us THE AUTHOR Stephen Schelling is a writer and teacher, a pickler, and an Eagle Scout from America with a B.A. in journalism from Marshall University.
January 2018
PyeongChang 2018 also offers a unique service called Fanto-Fan, which is a ticket re-selling program between fans. Attendees can also purchase available tickets in person at the venue ticket box office during the Games. For those living in or traveling to Seoul beforehand, tickets can also be bought at Incheon Airport, Gimpo Airport, or at Seoul City Hall. Tickets can also be purchased at 19 KTX stations throughout Korea, including the Gwangju-
A recent Bloomberg article reported that only 30 percent of the tickets to the Games had been purchased as of November. A majority of the tickets have been foreign purchases, while domestic sales in Korea have lagged considerably. Regardless of the contributing factors possibly responsible for this lukewarm reception to purchasing tickets for the Winter Games, it means that a lot of tickets are still available, with many events costing as little as 20 USD. With the affordability and ease of transport to and in-and-around the Winter Games, it would be unfortunate if more people didn’t take hold of this unique opportunity. It is a rare way to personally support world-class athletes, proudly declare one’s patriotism, and foster unity in the global community.
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Once you have reviewed the ticket information, you will have to set up a user account to purchase tickets. Tickets can be searched by sport, location, and date, and the price options are three-tiered: A, B, and C, with A being the most expensive and C being the least. Prices can vary dramatically depending on the sport and the date, with highly desirable sports and medal games costing several hundred or even over 1,000 USD.
Songjeong Station. Keep in mind that the only forms of payment accepted are either by Visa card or direct bank transfer.
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January 2018
SPORTS SPORTS && ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES
Swimming in Korea and the Etiquette You Didn’t Know About Written by E. J. Jones
E
ver get sick of going to the gym? I used to get bored of it all the time, so one day I racked my brain for alternative methods to stay healthy and in shape. That’s when I read that swimming was not only better for your joints than most other forms of exercise, but it was also a full-body workout, unlike machines at the gym, which often isolate only certain muscles. In addition, I discovered the underwater mp3 player (technology which has existed for years now, but I had never expected to actually work well), and with this my days of boredom and sweat at the gym ended – perhaps forever. I mean, full-body workout, no sweat, and steady laps while listening to my favorite tunes or even double-timing by studying Korean via podcast while I exercise? Sign me up. So off I went to the pool. Little did I know I was in for a few surprises. Now, if you’ve ever been to a jjimjilbang (찜질방, Korean spa), you know there is a certain etiquette that must be followed: remove shoes before entering the locker room, strip down, shower and scrub yourself well, and then – and only then – may you enter the sauna and pools. Unfortunately for me, I was unaware that there were similar rules at the pool, so I did what I used to do back home. I wore my swimsuit under my clothes (saves time and also awkwardness of stripping in front of strangers), did a swift rinse in the shower, and jumped into the pool. Thankfully, I was prepared with the swim cap and goggles required by Korean pools as I had to use these back in my days on the middle school swim team. Actually, I think only the cap is required, but the goggles are definitely needed when swimming laps. In any case, if you don’t have those, you can pick them up at the convenient swim shop at the pool’s entrance. Caps run
about 10,000–15,000 won and a decent pair of goggles will be around 20,000. Well, after a couple of trips to the pool, the ajummas (아줌마, marriage-age women) there finally addressed the several infringements I had apparently been making against the Korean pool-going ways. There I was… in the shower, suit on, doing my quick rinse, when I was approached by one of them. I was surprised when she spoke to me in English as I was living in Naju at the time and very few non-students spoke much English. The woman looked me sternly in the eyes and said I needed to take my swimsuit off, wash my hair, and use soap to wash my body before entering the pool. As she did this, I noticed several nods of agreement from the other naked ladies in the shower room. My immediate reaction was a mix of embarrassment with a bit of annoyance. Who were they to tell me how to shower before entering the pool? I wanted to tell them off, but instead, I just said, “okay” and did as I was told while avoiding eye contact the rest of the time I was in there because I was afraid that if I didn’t comply with the demands of the ajumma hierarchy, I’d be kicked out and not allowed to return. Still, it seemed silly to me that I had to wash so thoroughly before entering a pool filled with chemicals that I would only be washing off of my body once again when I took my proper shower afterwards. After my swim and second thorough shower, I wrapped my towel around me and went to my locker, not paying any attention to the trail of water I was leaving behind me – that is, until I heard the loud and incredulous
35 grumblings of the cleaning ajumma. I turned to see the elderly woman wiping up my water trail with a towel, which she then held up in my face, spouting angrysounding things in Korean, again, with approving nods from others in the locker room. I figured from this that it was not like back home where nobody cared how much water got on the locker room floor. Here, even a drop, and you might get a thirty-second lecture. Well, I learned my lesson that day as I left the pool nearly in tears and thought to myself that I’d never return. Eventually, I got over the scarring experience and did go back, though. Since learning the Korean pool code of conduct, I’ve moved to Gwangju, where I conveniently live only a few minutes’ bike ride from the World Cup Stadium and Yeomju Sports Center in Pungam-dong. At this location, they have one of the best, if not the best, indoor pools open to the public for lap swimming. The pool building is directly across from the indoor tennis courts, which sit behind the giant Lotte Mart and massive soccer stadium. You just walk in and tell them you want to swim. It costs 5,000 won for a single entrance or you can pay around 80,000 won for a month at a time – the monthly pass isn’t worth it, though, unless you are going to go more than three times per week.
Despite the crowds, I keep going back to the pool because, for me, it still beats the sweat and monotony at the gym. Plus, you get that full-body workout! Just be sure to scrub thoroughly and don’t drip an ounce of water onto that locker room floor, or you will surely have to face the wrath of the cleaning ajummas.
January 2018
September 2017.
THE AUTHOR Eden has been living in Korea since 2014 and enjoys reading, writing, snowboarding, and enchanting the locals with her violin when she can manage to find a spare minute away from her editing responsibilities at the Gwangju News. Eden became Managing Editor in
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Open swim times are Monday–Friday from 1 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Sundays from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (with meal breaks from 7–9 a.m. and 12–1 p.m.). At the pool, you should expect to find crowded lanes most of the time. I was surprised by this at first, as with pools back home it is not uncommon to have the luxury of a lane to oneself. This will rarely happen in Korea. I’m not sure why, but my theory is that here cities are more densely populated in general and there are probably not as many indoor pools available.
Health 36 Health
Lady Bits
COMMUNITY COMMUNITY
A Vaginal Health Resource Guide Written by Monique Dean-Onyema
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
V
agina. Va-jay-jay. Lady bits. Down there. However you refer to it, vaginas are one of the strongest, the most mysterious, and the most sensitive organs on the planet. It is such a complex system that even those who own one have a hard time understanding this complicated enigma. It is capable of expanding over twice its size, enduring an extraneous amount of pain, and the most decadent of pleasures. It is no wonder why such a complicated and delicate system would require the utmost level of care.
complicated when language barriers and cultural differences come into play. As inevitable as that may be, Gwangju has a variety of hospitals that cater not only to Korean citizens but welcome foreigners to partake in their services. From pap smears to contraception to cancer screenings to prenatal care, there are quite a few hospitals in the city that may meet your reproductive health needs and, depending on where you come from, at affordable prices.
There are tons of articles and instructional videos out there telling you how to care for your vagina properly: drink plenty of water, avoid douching, wear breathable cotton underwear. But there is one technique that remains tried and true – a pap smear. Women over the age of 21, whether they are sexually active or not, are recommended to get a pelvic examination. Exams are vital for making sure your vagina is the healthiest it can be. Most women would agree that going to the gynecologist is not really high on the list of things one enjoys most in life.
NAM-GU LOVE ME CLINIC (러브미여성의원) Website: www.lovemeclinic.co.kr Address: 704 Seomundae-ro, Nam-gu, Gwangju Telephone: 062-651-6571/2 Hours of Operation: Monday, Tuesdays & Thursdays: 09:30–18:30 Fridays: 09:30–20:00 Wednesdays & Saturdays: 09:30–13:00 Lunch break 12:30–14:00 Closed Sundays & public holidays
Visiting the gynecologist can especially get somewhat
Located in the Jinwol-dong area of Namgu, Love Me
37 Clinic has two female doctors who accept patients on a walk-in only basis. The clinic is one of the government appointment hospitals to conduct cancer screenings for cervical cancer, endometrial cancer, ovarian cancer, breast cancer, and thyroid cancer. They also provide general pelvic exams, contraceptives such as intrauterine device (IUD) insertion and removal, pregnancy tests, and prenatal checkups. BUK-GU BITGOEUL WOMEN’S HOSPITAL (빛고을여성병원) Website: www.shinelady.co.kr Address: 396 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju (Yangsan-dong) Telephone: 062-602-9000 Hours of Operation: Weekdays: 09:00–20:00 Saturdays: 09:00–17:00 Sundays & public holidays: 09:00–12:00 Lunch break: 12:30–14:00 With 12 doctors on staff, Bitgoeul is an excellent choice for not only those looking for general reproductive health services, but also for mommies-to-be. They provide general pelvic exams and contraception such as birth control pills and IUDs as well as prenatal and postnatal care. Prenatal and postnatal services include: • Prenatal service: prenatal checkup, child deformity checkup, chorionic test, 3D ultrasound, color Doppler checkup, diabetes test, and fetus condition test • Postnatal service: breastfeeding education, food preparation and hygiene management, beauty consulting, physiotherapy, sitz bath and dry sauna. They also have a center where new mothers can take classes in yoga, soap-making, breastfeeding, baby massage, and baby food-making.
Telephone: 062-616-9000 Hours of Operation: Weekdays: 09:00–19:30; 09:00–19:00 (winter season: November to February) Saturdays: 09:00–17:00 Sundays & Public Holidays: 09:00–13:00 Breaktime: 13:00–14:00 W Women’s Hospital is another hospital in Gwangju that provides general reproductive health services in addition to extensive services for expectant and new mothers. Located in Gwangsan-gu, very close to Lotte Outlet, the hospital promotes prenatal and postnatal birthing services such as prenatal screenings, tests for gestational diabetes, anemia, and fetal deformity. New mothers can also indulge in body massages, postnatal yoga, and skin care treatments after delivering their bundles of joy. For those looking to avoid hopping on the baby train, they also provide a variety of contraceptives such as IUD, birth control pills, and surgical sterilization. They also offer extensive STD screenings. Make sure to ask for Dr. Lee Hyo-jin, Dr. No Eun-ji, or Dr. Yun Ha-na, the three English-speaking doctors at the hospital.
SEO-GU MIZPIA WOMEN’S HOSPITAL (미즈피아병원) Website: www.imizpia.co.kr Address: 17 Sicheong-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju Telephone: 062-380-2000 Hours of Operation: Weekdays: 09:00–20:00 Saturdays: 09:00–17:00 Lunch break: 13:00–14:00 Sundays & public holidays: 09:00–13:00
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GWANGSAN-GU W WOMEN’S HOSPITAL (더블유여성병원) Website: www.whospital.co.kr/ Address: 331 Imbangeuldae-ro, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju (near Lotte Mart, Suwan Branch)
January 2018
38 38 38 Where to Eat
FOOD & DRINKS
Shakshouka
Shrimp Cazuela
Barn Toom Written and photographed by Justin Ramsay
W
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
ith winter well and truly upon us and the temperatures plummeting by the day, those of us from more tropical climes are finding it harder to muster up the will to drag ourselves away from the heated floors, blankets, and general warmth of home and into the sub-zero, icy terrain that awaits us outside. Thankfully this month’s stop for the Where to Eat feature is just a short hop, skip, and a jump away from my home in the hip little slice of town that is Dongmyeong-dong. My wife and I set out to our destination in several layers of our warmest threads in the minus-7-degree weather, thankful for the lack of wind that made the trip down the road somewhat bearable and even refreshing. We were barely 20 meters down the road when the snow began to fall, and within minutes, the streets were blanketed in a soft dusting of the white stuff. Being from South Africa, I never experienced snow when I was younger, so whenever the first substantial snowfall of the season hits like this, it brings me a child-like feeling of joy that cuts right through the cold and instantly puts me in a great mood. Ten minutes of slowly walking and admiring the snowfall later, we arrived at Barn Toom in high spirits with hopes of procuring a warm meal and a tasty beverage. The road on which Barn Toom is located is directly across
from the main entrance of Daein Market but was much more peaceful on a Saturday night than the bustling night market we had just walked through. We had walked down this road many times in the past but hadn’t paid much attention as it appeared to just be littered with a few standard coffee shops and small bars en route to the part of Dongmyeong-dong where the majority of eateries and dessert cafes are found. The storefront of Barn Toom blends in with the other coffee shops and bars on the street, but only at first glance, as it is in fact a café-bar-restaurant and performance venue rolled into one. The dining area of the interior is quite small and has a little bar cum barista station with a kitchen in the back. The aesthetic of Barn Toom is one of bits of wood, industrial elements, and the odd plant scattered about, which give it a certain rustic, hipster-esque charm. Its aged-effect painted walls with guitars and other instruments leaned against them with the odd poster and plants balancing on stepladders would not look out of place in any modern, hip area of Cape Town, Berlin, Portland, or the like. The owner of Barn Toom is an indie musician, and so the space is transformed into an intimate performance venue once or twice a month for his band and others to showcase their skills and then goes back to being a cozy café-bar-hangout spot for the majority of the time.
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Brunch Plate BARN TOOM 반틈 83-2 Donggyecheon-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 동계천로 83-2
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Once we were seated, we were given a one-page handwritten menu on a clipboard, on paper with a purposefully aged effect that made it look like an old document or set list, a nice touch that fitted the rustic look of the venue quite well. We had a quick look through the menu and ordered an IPA and a selection of three dishes from the small food menu that consisted of six options. A selection of cocktails and liquor is also available, along with a coffee-and-tea selection including a mint chocolate chip latte.
While we were chatting and enjoying the last of our shrimp, our final dish of shakshouka arrived. Shakshouka is a dish popular in the Middle East and North Africa in countries such as Libya and Tunisia, and consists of eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes, chili peppers, and onions, and spiced with cumin. I had never eaten shakshouka before, but once I smelled it, I knew I was going to enjoy it. Like the cazuela, it came with bread on the side to dip into it, and it was different from other shakshouka I had seen online as it had additional ingredients such as cheese and spicy sausage. Our first experience with shakshouka was a good one, and although we were already very full by this point, we cleaned our plates. I think the sausage and molten cheese definitely added to the dish, and it was very tasty in a homely, comfort food sort of way. If you fancy a simple brunch but it’s not Sunday, or you want a nice homely, hot meal to stave off the icy grip of winter and warm your heart, then definitely stop by Barn Toom and give the cazuela or shakshouka a try. THE AUTHOR
January 2018
around Gwangju.
Justin is an English teacher from South Africa who has lived in Gwangju since 2013. He is a big fan of food and the arts, and generally goes where something good can be eaten, seen, or heard. He is often involved in GPP performances and writes monthly food articles for the Gwangju News. In his free time, he’s usually playing boardgames, videogames, or just enjoying a nice stroll
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The first item to arrive was our brunch plate, which can be ordered at any time of day (or indeed, night) and is very reasonably priced at just 7,000 won. On the plate, there was an English muffin, a frankfurter, fried egg, bacon, and a veggie salad. The egg was nicely done, sunny-side up, and the yolk was hot but nice and runny. The English muffin was served separate from the other ingredients so you could choose to either assemble it to your liking or eat everything separately and use the English muffin to soak up the egg and sauce from the plate. We went with the former and cleared our plate quite quickly. Our second dish arrived very shortly thereafter. The cazuela, which is essentially gambas al ajillo, arrived piping hot with a generous portion of garlic bread on the side and smelled great. The dish consisted of a hot frying pan containing a good portion of shrimp cooked in olive oil with various seasoning including bay leaves, pepper, garlic, and parsley. We had eaten gambas al ajilo at quite a few other restaurants, but this one definitely had more flavor and a bit of a kick to it, with a little bit of spiciness, which added to the dish and made it more enjoyable.
011-9424-9057 Tuesday- Sunday: 12 p.m. – 12 a.m. Closed on Mondays. 7,000 – 13,000 won for food https://www.facebook.com/barntoom/
40 Korean Culture 40
FOOD FOOD && DRINKS DRINKS
An Auspicious Start to the New Year Tteokguk
Written by Cho Namhee
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
T
he sunrise of a new year is a sign of a new beginning, but in Korea where aging is deemed as a great threat, it also brings an undesirable fear to the minds of the people, at least to some extent. Among the Korean traditional festival foods, tteokguk (떡국, rice cake soup) is consumed in the New Year, hoping for a better year with a pure and refreshed mind. This traditional warm milky soup with floating coin-like rice cakes has predominantly been served on the very first morning of the year and gradually became the symbol of the addition of one year to one’s age.
A bowl of traditional rice cake soup has a Korean proverb behind it that goes “kkwong daesin dak” (꿩 대신 닭, chicken instead of pheasant). Similar to the American proverb “if you can’t get a horse, ride a cow,” the saying is used when something is needed but absent, so you have to use a replacement. Pheasant soup stock was the golden recipe, but due to the rarity of the ingredient, chicken was more commonly used. Today, it is difficult to infer the origin of the proverb from the modern recipe since most tteokguk is made with either beef or a combination of beef and oysters.
It appears in literature from the late Joseon Dynasty: Dongguk-sesigi (동국세시기) and Yeolyang-sesigi (열양세시기), records of the seasonal customs of the times, both emphasized that the soup should never be missing from the table for the New Year’s guests and the ancestral rites on New Year’s. The thinly sliced white rice cakes in the soup are believed to be derived from the primitive religious idea that everything had to be solemn and pure on the day when all things start a new beginning. There are controversies in terms of the shape of the main ingredient of the soup. While some say that it resembles coins that were deliberately put as a hope for material wealth or the shape of the sun to wish for a good year, on the contrary, some argue that the shape of the rice cake naturally came from the convenience of slicing a long stick of rounded rice cake or garae-tteok (가래떡).
The recipe of the dish is as simple as it sounds. All it needs is stock, a pack of rice cake, and some garnish like laver, eggs, and spring onions to put on the top. Though the dish is available all year round in restaurants, especially in beef barbeques, nothing can be more special than a bowl of rice cake soup that you made yourself because you get to grow one year older on your own initiative!
▲ The Yeomju Gymnasium ice rink.
THE AUTHOR Cho Namhee currently studies communication at Chonnam National University.
41
TOPIK Guide (topikguide.com) is the most comprehensive website devoted to the TOPIK exam. It’s been helping Korean language learners pass the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) for more than seven years. On our website, you can get all the TOPIK updates, grammar and vocabulary material, and study tips.
Everyday Korean Episode: 1
Traffic Excuses
Written by Harsh Kumar Mishra Korean Language Expert at TOPIKGUIDE.COM
오늘 왜 늦었어요 [O-neul wae neu-jeosseoyo]? Why are you late today?
몇 번 타고 왔어요 [Myeot beon tago wasseoyo]? Which bus did you take? 7번 타고 왔어요 [Chil-beon tago wasseoyo]. 사람이 많았어요 [Sarami manasseoyo]. I took Bus 7. It was crowded. 왜 택시 안 탔어요 [Wae taekshi an-tasseoyo]? Why didn’t you take a taxi? 주소를 정확히 몰라서 못 탔어요 [Juso-reul molla-seo mot tasseoyo]. Because I didn’t know the exact address.
아서(words ending with 오, 아) / 어서(words not ending with 오, 아) (With words ending in 하, use 해서): These words are used to show the reason behind something. Ex: 너무 바빠서 밥을 못 먹었어요 [neomu bappaseo babeul monmeogeosseoyo]. I couldn’t eat because I was very busy.
EDUCATION
길이 막혀서 늦었어요 [Giri ma-kyeoseo neu-jeosseoyo]. Because I got stuck in traffic.
Grammar & Vocabulary
늦다: to be late 길: road 막히다: to be stopped (Passive of 막다: to stop) 타다: to ride 주소: address 정확히: correctly 모르다: to not know
#KoreaLifeHacks
Visit the TOPIK Guide website or our YouTube channel to improve your Korean and reach your goal on the TOPIK test.
January 2018
1. Use a travel card for riding city buses or the subway. Travel cards are cheaper than paying in cash. If you ride another city bus or the subway in the next 20 minutes after getting off one city bus, the fare is discounted for the second ride. Sometimes, there is not any charge at all for the second city bus trip. This can save so much money in Korea, so let your friends and family know about it. 2. When going to other cities, use the express bus. In Korea, traveling by bus is usually the fastest and cheapest option. 3. If you want to send something urgently to another city in Korea, go to a bus terminal and register your parcel there to get same-day delivery.
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“ACC로 가 주세요” 이렇게 말하면 돼요 [“ACC-ro ga juseyo” ireok’e mar-hamyeon dwaeyo]. “Drop me off at the ACC, please.” (Say this statement every time to any taxi driver)
42
Education and “Alternative” Education Written by Douglas Baumwoll
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
EDUCATION
E
ducation is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world.” So proclaimed Nelson Mandela, the South African political prisoner and president; and he knew a thing or two about changing institutionalized belief and political policy. Rewind 2,300 years, and you have Aristotle saying, “The roots of education are bitter, but the fruit is sweet.” There are famous quotes about education from many of history’s international heavy-hitters: Ban Ki-moon, Martin Luther King, Jr., Benjamin Franklin, Jean Piaget, Michelle Obama, Koni Affan. The list goes on. “Education” has been an integral part of humanity and society since the first cavedwellers passed on oral information or painted animals on the wall to communicate to their fellow tribespeople or gods. But what is “education,” exactly? Let’s look at another quote, this one from Albert Einstein: “Education is what remains after one has forgotten what one has learned in school.” And: “The goal of education is not to increase the amount of knowledge but to create the possibilities for a child to invent and discover, to create men who are capable of doing new things.” This is the view of Jean Piaget, the 20th-century Swiss psychologist and pioneer of child development and cognition. Peter Gray, PhD, reminds us that “in the beginning, for hundreds of thousands of years, children educated themselves through self-directed play and exploration . . . with the rise of agriculture, and later of industry, children became forced laborers. Play and exploration were suppressed. Willfulness, which had been a virtue, became a vice that had to be beaten out of children.” And, if you take even a superficial look at the school system in your home country, you can see that remnants of this truth remain in elementary, middle, and high schools even today. Ever heard of Sir Kenneth Robinson? Check out his witty and incisive TED talk entitled “Do Schools Kill Creativity?” and his animated “Changing Education Paradigms” on YouTube. So, what does the noun “education” mean? When discussing this concept with someone, we must make absolutely clear which facet of this complex and nuanced concept we are talking about. Content? Pedagogy? Methodology?
Learning environment? Assessment and evaluation? Rather than argue what the one word, “education,” should mean, let’s just be specific and avoid the semantics issues altogether. And that brings us to today’s topic: what kind of “alternative” education – and I mean schools and their curricula – exist in Jeollanam-do? First, let me explain that the meaning of “alternative” education in the Korean public school system is not synonymous to “progressive” education as I understand it. When people speak of “progressive” ideologies, I think of Montessori schools (based on the writings and ideas of Dr. Maria Montessori) and of Waldorf Education (based on the writings and ideas of Rudolf Steiner). Both of these educational pioneers wrote about their methods over 100 years ago, and their visions exist today embodied in schools all over the world. In fact, since arriving here from Germany in 1998, 100 Waldorf kindergartens and six Waldorf schools dot the nation (see freunde-waldorf.de for more information). Locally, a Waldorf school opened recently right here in Jeollanam-do (Damyang), and I will write more about it in next month’s issue. Back to the focus of this article, which is local schools that differ from the prescribed curriculum taught in the public school system. First, there are two alternative schools, one in Damyang County, northeast of Gwangju, and a second in Gwangju. Both are owned and operated by private religious organizations, and their curriculums differ somewhat from the public school curriculum. For information about the Damyang school, named Hanbit High School, see the Gwangju News Online article from January 2014 (issue #143; go to hanbit.hs.jne.kr for more information). The second school, called the Gwangju Sahmyook Elementary and Middle School, is one of 35 branches located throughout Korea. Their curriculum also includes content that may be uncommon in typical Korean public schools. For example, Sahmyook offers courses in both Korean and English, but some of the “English” classes are content classes, such as science, and not only second language learning classes. There are also club activities taught in English that kids take once a week. These include chess, tabletop games, drama, and pop music. For
43 additional information, check out their website at koreasda. com/introduction.html. Shifting gears, let’s take a look at “alternative” education within the public school system. I discovered two here in Jeollanamdo: the Han-ul High School in Gokseong, and the Cheong-ram Middle School in Gangjin. Both of these schools implement elements of their curriculums that differ from the prescribed public school curriculum; the reason, however, is not entirely pedagogical. I interviewed one teacher at Han-ul via email, and they graciously supplied me with the following information. Eighty-nine students attend this high school; however, the reason is because these students display some behavioral difficulties in school, and not because their parents have chosen to send them to a “progressive” school in terms of curriculum. Nevertheless, as a tool in managing behavior and educating these students, curriculum is modified and actually leans toward methods used at well-known progressive schools like Montessori and Waldorf. For example, the students at Han-ul take more and longer field trips compared to public high schools. For instance, some experience a 4-day, 3-night field trip hiking along the Soemgin River, others climb Mount Jiri, and still others go to and explore an island in Goheung. The school offers “innovative classes such as woodworking skills, band, vocal, etc.” I also asked if project-based learning is employed as a teaching methodology and the response was, “Yes, many teachers use project-based learning. Students establish individual or group goals and work throughout the semester to deliver their results. Our school offers experience-oriented and personal-oriented education.”
THE AUTHOR Doug Baumwoll, a professional writer and editor for 25 years, trains in-service teachers in writing skills and methodology. His personal writing interests include visionary and speculative fiction, climate change, energy, and social justice. He is the founder of SavetheHumanz.com.
January 2018
A teacher at Cheong-ram Middle School told me they felt that mainstream Korean public schools will start moving toward the methods used there, with less emphasis on testing and more emphasis on intellectual and social development. In the private sector in Korea, progressive educational philosophies and methods have popped up
Personally, I feel education reform is needed in virtually every society in the world in one way or another, and for all ages of students. I call on you, dear reader, to follow up on some of the information I have provided here. In addition to the names I have mentioned above, look up Alfie Kohn, Dianne Ravitch, and Susan Ochshorn. There are many, many more you will find once you start your Internet searches. Their ideas will challenge you to either reconfirm your beliefs about education, or to reconstruct them. I urge everyone to engage in the public discussion. What does education mean to you, students, parents, teachers, and society in general? Free public education is a central tenet of evolved modern day societies, and it must be flexible, adaptive, effective, and non-dehumanizing. Education’s purpose can no longer be to prepare young adults for factory jobs and number-crunching white collar work. We must ensure that students develop critical and creative thinking skills, tolerance of differing viewpoints, a thirst for knowledge, and collaborative skills. They must want to become lifelong learners, and not recoil at that idea. Because, remember, as the great John Dewey said, “Education is not preparation for life; education is life itself.”
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These methods seem to be effective with these students, many of whom come from socially disadvantaged backgrounds. Given the educational difficulties present for various societal and personal reasons at Han-ul, 50 percent of the students take the Suneung entrance exam and go on to attend university. I asked if vocational skills are taught to students. “We don’t teach professional skills as a profession, but we help [the students] find their dreams and talents.” Students and teachers are working hard here for a positive educational outcome in a difficult situation, and I applaud all of them – administrators, teachers, and students – for their efforts.
everywhere. For example, Korea now has a Montessori Institute office in Gyeonggi-do, which offers training in the innovative Montessori methods. As mentioned, the Waldorf schools in Korea (and worldwide) emphasize “experiential, developmentally oriented learning through both tactile and intellectual means.” That’s why kids spend much of their day outdoors (again, tune in next month for an article on this).
44 KOTESOL
2018 Checklist for Improvement as a Teacher
EDUCATION
Written by Dr. David Shaffer Photo courtesy of KOTESOL
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
One of the many teacher-presenters in KOTESOL (Julian Warmington) presenting at a recent KOTESOL event.
T
he changing of the year is a time to take stock of the previous twelve months, to reflect on what we have and haven’t done, and to plan for the next dozen months facing us. We may be pretty good at doing this for the self-improvement of our personal lives, but as teachers, how much do we reflect on the professional side and consider improvement of the self as a teacher? Here I am putting out a checklist of items to consider to make even better the role you play as a teacher. The checklist is not meant for you to have to do everything on the list but to select from the items those that you think would best suit your situation, your wants, and your needs. x Reflective Practice Reflective practice is much more than just “thinking” about your class and jotting down a few notes about it on your handout or planner. Reflective practice is “deep thinking.” In its simplest form, it is taking some downtime to think back on a class that you have just taught, to consider your general feeling about how the class went, to consider
why you feel that way, to consider what things you could possibly do to make the class better (regardless of how well the class may have gone), select from this list of items those that you wish to incorporate the next time you teach the class, and evaluate the results. And the cycle then repeats itself. Rather than simply blaming a lesson or activity that did not go well on the “bad” students, reflecting on how we may improve upon it is much more worthwhile. x Reflective Journals Journal writing is popular among those who like to write for general self-improvement and for its therapeutic effects. Likewise, keeping a teaching journal to discuss with yourself matters regarding classes, students, colleagues and administration, and anything else related to your teaching can have positive results. When writing, one takes more time to think through what they plan to commit to paper (or to a computer file). The reflective cycle described above can be applied very effectively to journal writing, too. How often should you write? That is up to you. But it is to be
45 expected that the more teachers write, the quicker and more easily their problems with be resolved; and the more they will improve as an educator and the happier they will be!
of interest to the group: a class activity that worked well, a teaching tip, or even posing a question that you haven’t found a good answer to.
x Attending ELT Workshops The English language teaching (ELT) profession is known for holding workshops, especially workshops for teachers and (very often) by teachers. In fact, KOTESOL’s slogan is “Teachers Helping Teachers.” If you aren’t doing it already, consider attending ELT workshops in 2018. Where can one do this? Some workplaces organize them; some ELT publishers do, too. But these may be too infrequent for your needs. I would suggest KOTESOL. Among the dozen ELT associations in Korea, KOTESOL sets itself apart from the others in that it has nine chapters throughout the country that regularly hold workshops. At Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter, for example, you can attend workshops every month of the year. There is great variety in their ELT topics, and you don’t need to be a KOTESOL member to attend. By the way, reflective practice need not be something you only do alone. Gwangju KOTESOL holds small-group reflective practice morning sessions before their regular afternoon meetings.
x Taking Courses With the pace of advancement in the world of ELT, formal education goes out of date almost as fast as bread on the grocery shelf. Requirements for teaching positions keep increasing as well. To advance in the profession, and indeed to keep the position you presently have, it may be a good idea to consider an advanced degree. With so many good online options now available, one can continue in their present job while studying at a university on another continent. Often the requirements of the position one is in change with the times. To keep up with these changes, or to upgrade one’s knowledge and skill set for a possible promotion, a certificate program online or brick-andmortar may be just the thing for you.
x Going to ELT Conferences As workshops are small events, what they have to offer may not always be what you are looking for. Consider attending the ELT conferences held around the nation. With a dozen ELT organizations holding one or more conferences annually, there are a variety of events and content available. The attraction of conferences is that they have numerous parallel sessions going on at the same time for you to choose from, and these conferences have often invited speakers from various corners of the world. In KOTESOL’s case, there is a two-day conference in the autumn with a dozen or more parallel sessions each hour, a smaller national conference in the spring, and a number of regional conferences held by its chapters sprinkled throughout the year. (Gwangju KOTESOL’s conference is scheduled for March 10 this year.)
David E. Shaffer is Vice-President of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the Chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University, where he has taught graduate and undergraduate courses. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions; at present he is national president. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching, scholarship, and leadership. He is also the editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.
THE AUTHOR
GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING Date: January 13 (Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education Presentation and Workshop on ELT Troubleshooting Pedagogic Miscommunication: Do your students really understand the purposes of English practice tasks? Bryan Hale (Yeongam High School) SwapShop – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have.
For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL
January 2018
Upcoming Event: Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter Conference “Caring, Sharing, Daring: Adventures in ELT,” March 10, 2018; GNUE, Gwangju
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
x Doing Presentations If you’re already in the workshop-attending habit, consider moving to the front of the room and taking on the role of presenter. Through our teaching, we learn things and realize things that would be helpful to not only ourselves, but to our teacher colleagues as well. Presenting at a large conference may be a big first step, so you could consider organizing a workshop at your workplace. If that is not an option, Gwangju KOTESOL is always looking for useful presentations for their monthly meetings. If that’s still a big step, consider participating in the “swapshop” session that Gwangju KOTESOL includes in each of their meetings. These are very short sessions (five minutes or so) where anyone can present anything ELT-related that may be
I encourage you to sit back and take some time to reflect on this checklist, and on what would be best for you to have a professionally satisfying 2018.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
ARTS & CULTURE
46
My Camera Roll Written and photographed by Lorryn Smit
A
s I get older, the years seem to go by faster and faster. Wonderful things happen throughout the year, but because it flies by, these things tend to be forgotten just as quickly as the year goes on. We like to think that things that pull at our heartstrings or those “unforgettable” trips that we take will stick in our minds, but they don’t. They just don’t. For this reason, I started a little tradition a few years ago: on the first day of the new year, I flip through my camera roll of the past year.
This brings me great joy. I get to re-live wonderful memories with people, re-experience beautiful moments that made me happy, and mostly, feel gratitude for all that is my life. When I tell people about my little tradition, most respond with the same words: “But you’re a photographer, my pictures are not beautiful.” It’s not about the pictures being beautiful. It’s about the small moments in life that make us happy. The moments when you were actually present. Not worrying about things or thinking
47
THE AUTHOR
January 2018
Lorryn Smit is a South African who has called Gwangju home for seven years now. She is a recently turned full-time photographer specialising in documentary-style wedding and portrait photography. She is also the editor-in-chief of a popular photography blog called Photographers in Korea and freelances for a variety of publications in Korea.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
about the future. These are the moments in life when we feel sincerely happy. And the ones we should cherish and learn to enjoy more! Try it. Take photos of things that touch your heart, happy times with your friends and family, small precious moments. And you’ll see just how beautiful life is!
48
â—€ Jeju Green Tea Fields
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
â–ś This page, from top: Jeju Romantopia, Jeju Camellia Hill, and equipments used by Jeju Hanyeo sitting above a pier.
49
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
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January 2018
ARTS & CULTURE
50
Photo of the Month Photographed by Abishek Sahu
A snowy morning at Seonunsa Temple in Gochang. Snowfall makes an ordinary scene more beautiful.
51
Seonunsa Temple 선운사
250 Seonunsa-ro, Asan-myeon, Gochang-gun, Jeollanam-do 전북 고창군 아산면 선운사로 250
￦ Adult 3,000 won, parking fee 2,000 won
January 2018
Do you have any photos that you would like to show to Gwangju (and the world)? Gwangju News features a photo of the month to create more opportunities to promote more photographers based in the Jeollanam-do region and to show off our beautiful province from different areas and angles. Submissions can be posted in the “Photography in the South” Facebook group throughout the preceding month. Alternatively, you can also send your submissions to the editor by email: photos@ gwangjunewsgic.com
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
063-561-1422 From Gwangju, take a bus to the Gochang Haeri Public Bus Terminal (approx. 1 hour 30 minutes) and transfer to a local bus to Seonunsa (approx. 55 minutes).
ARTS & CULTURE
52 52 Book Review
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
Binti by Nnedi Okorafor A Novella to Kickstart Your 2018 Reading Resolutions Written by Kristy Dolson
H
appy New Year! A new year elicits new resolutions to improve ourselves. Maybe you want to experience new activities? Maybe you want to read more? Maybe you want to expand your horizons and become a better person in the process? I don’t know about you, but I started 2018 with a very long “to-read” list. Why not get a start on your reading list with a short, stimulating sci-fi novella?
Binti is the story of a young girl coming into womanhood
who gets accepted into a prestigious university, Oomza Uni, due to her gifted mathematical talents. There are problems, however. She belongs to a race of people who had never before been accepted to this school. And the school is on another planet. And her family has forbidden her to leave. Naturally, she runs away. What follows should be a simple space-flight to Oomza Uni, but it turns into a journey fraught with dangers that Binti must overcome. Though the genre is science fiction,
53 at its core, this is a coming-of-age story with strong themes of identity, belonging, and friendship. The author, Nnedi Okorafor, is a Nigerian-American writer, and her style is quite readable. She unpacks a lot of plot in a very short time-span. The story develops well, with a reasonable number of flashbacks to illuminate Binti’s motivations and specific plot events. The dialogue is engaging, and it never feels too heavy-handed, which often happens in the sci-fi genre. There are a lot of new terms, but newcomers to the genre shouldn’t feel intimidated, as the themes are mostly about character growth and the issue of belonging. Regarding setting, though I don’t recall a specific time being mentioned, the story clearly begins on far-future Earth. Binti belongs to the Himba tribe in Africa. It’s unsettling to read about a world set far enough in the future that humans have established universities on other planets, and yet racism is still rampant. This is neither a utopian, nor dystopian vision of the future. It is just one idea of what could happen, and considering the racially charged global events of 2017, this future seems quite realistic. Binti is well worth reading. If you’re not much into sci-fi, this may not be your cup of tea, but with a page count of less than 100, I highly recommend giving it a try. You may even find that when you get to the end, you’ll find yourself wanting more. I am always on the lookout for new and unique voices to round out my literary horizons, and Nnedi Okorafor has certainly delivered for me. I will undoubtedly be adding more of her thought-provoking work to my to-read list.
Best of luck in 2018!
Written by Ashley Johnson
W
ho now keeps the desert We held in our upturned palms – A cradled, sun-fallen mirage flung far against the sanded hearts of mountains? Who now hears the quiet rush of snow we breathed in our glacial lungs – A melted whip crack of strings against the sharpened arms of trees? Who now walks the moon-burned land we tread in our dry earthen rhythms – A kindled nomadic flow of stars against the rock of bone horizons? Who now lights the stirring bow, Chilled vein of winter scores? Who now glides in blacken white, To break these walls of ours? Who now strums the chord of night, Where we, circled, sat for hours? And who now sings for sorrow’s plight? In love In sand In snow What a Dreamer’s heart devours, Imagining, We know. THE AUTHOR
THE AUTHOR
Ashley Johnson, a California native, has just returned to Gwangju after a few months of inspired travel through China, Mongolia, and Vietnam. She spends her time cavorting with fellow artsy and creative types, teaching English as per the norm, and moonlighting as a bartender downtown.
January 2018
Kristy Dolson lived in South Korea for five years before taking a year off to travel, read, and spend time with her family in Canada and Australia. She holds a Bachelor of Education and has just returned to Gwangju where she splits her time between teaching Korean teachers at JETI and reading as much as she can. (Photo by Lisa Crone)
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
If 2017 has shown us anything, it’s that we all have to confront the fact that racist thinking will continue into the future if we do not take steps to stop it today. I hope this dynamic novella will both help you get into your 2018 reading and help you expand your horizons. There is a lot to contemplate with this text, so I highly recommend it for book clubs.
Desert Keep
54 Movie Review 54
Darren Aronofsky’s Mother! Why Movie Fans Are Divided
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
ARTS & CULTURE
Written by Natale Ryan
D
arren Aronofsky has a tremendous number of landmark movies on his resume. His most wellknown accomplishments are 2000’s Requiem for a Dream and 2010’s Black Swan. Aronofsky tends to use a mixture of horror-esque storytelling and a bold artsy style to convey his message. This year, a new film by Aronofsky was marketed as thriller-suspense, but when fans flocked to see it based upon what the trailer advertised, they were highly disappointed. Mother!, though advertised as a classic suspense movie, is an artistic film about allegories hidden in other allegories. It was this misadvertisement of this film, and the wide universal release, that has created such a disdain for this movie. However, I disagree with this, and I thoroughly enjoyed this film.
The film has no soundtrack. There is not a shred of musical score in the film whatsoever. The camera seems to be only trained on “Her” throughout the length of the film, and we see what she sees. The setting is gorgeous. Even though it is contained to a central location, it is exquisitely shot. The acting is superb, in my opinion. Lawrence, though she seems to be playing against the type she usually portrays, fits this role very well and elicits sympathy from the viewer. The very ending is tremendously creative, and I absolutely loved it. As I mentioned above, I highly recommend this movie to people who want something to think about. However, if you are sensitive, like me, and don’t want to be disturbed, please read the spoilers so that you can enjoy the movie without the shock. If anything, it’ll give you something to talk about for decades to come. THE AUTHOR
Natale is an English teacher in Mokpo. She is from Memphis, Tennessee in the United States. She attended college in Jonesboro, Arkansas and majored in criminology and sociology. In her free time, she enjoys watching scary movies and writing short stories. Her favorite movies are To Kill a Mockingbird, E.T., and Memento. Her heroes are Snoopy and Audrey Hepburn.
January 2018
If you are wondering if you should see this film, or if you have heard gossip, there are a few things that you may want to know. Firstly, it is violent, yet not gory. The film uses violence as tastefully as it can, yet it can be difficult to watch. It displays amazing cinematography, and has a gritty and claustrophobic feel. Second, Lawrence’s character is not the strong-willed woman she often portrays. “Her” is a very old-fashioned, and oftentimes, weak woman. She can be frustrating to watch, and she can be seen as an allegory for femininity, Mother Nature, or inspiration. Throughout the movie, she complains, cries, and screams at strangers flooding her home. Lastly, this film, to many, can be seen as pretentious and arrogant. Each thing and
This movie is not for everyone. It can be seen as an assault of your senses, and I have to agree with that. I, however, did something unusual before viewing this film: I read all the spoilers. I am not a fan of unsettling films in the least and didn’t want to be disturbed. After I spoiled it for myself, I watched it and was blown away. I am relieved that I didn’t experience the shock of this film, and after you push aside everything created for shock value, it is a wonderful and impactful story that sheds light on society and mankind. If you saw this movie and were put off by it, I recommend watching it again. If you are sensitive and curious about this, I recommend reading spoilers, because it’ll help keep your mind on the story and picking out metaphors.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
“This movie is not for everyone. “
character is this film is a metaphor for another metaphor. There are allegories within allegories, and concepts within concepts. It can, however, inspire whatever meaning you are feeling when you watch it. There are biblical themes, themes regarding nature, themes regarding the human psyche, and themes regarding the stages of creativity. In a way, to me, the house that “Him” and “Her” dwell in is a character itself and can be seen as the world, the human body, or our mind. If you see it, and want to add more layers to what is already there, read the ending credits and study the names given to the characters.
ARTS & CULTURE
The plot is hard to grasp, and for many this can be very off-putting. The characters are nameless and are mainly archetypes. Jennifer Lawrence plays a woman named “Her,” and Javier Bardem plays a man named “Him.” The duo are married and live in a very isolated house, and this is the only setting in the film. “Her” loves to refurbish her home, which has been recently ravaged by a fire. “Him” is a poet with writer’s block, who is struggling to find his inspiration. “Her” is a very doting wife, and she loves “Him” almost to a fault. Soon, strangers visit the couple’s isolated home, and their names are “Woman” (played by Michelle Pfeiffer) and “Man” (played by Ed Harris). After “Man” and “Woman” arrive, the pace of the film picks up and things begin to spiral out of control. Soon, more strangers come with hopes of meeting the famed author “Him.” If I were to explain more regarding the plot, I would be giving away too much, but that may or may not be a bad thing, considering the content of the film.
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Community Board Have something you want to share with the community? Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce club activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.
UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide the family and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.
PILATES/ YOGA WITH VALLE GIC Hall, 1st Floor 7:00–8:00 pm, Tuesday 10:00–11:00 am, Thursday Facebook: Yoga/Pilates with Valle This is a weekly class appropriate for all levels on a donation-based level.
For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers, or contact Kim Young-Im 062-434-9887, or email konacenter@gmail.com.
www.gwangjunewsgic.com
January 2018
VOLUNTEER TEACHERS NEEDED for the Gwangju UCC (Universal Cultural Center). Any levels of experience, English teachers here in the Gwangju area during 2018 can participate. UCC has a Facebook profile if you would like to see what kind of other services are available. To participate in the international cultural exchange programs, you may email peter.j.gallo@gmail.com, or phone or text 010-9490-4258. GWANGJU FILIPINO ENGLISH TEACHERS (GFET) Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10 am – 12 noon, GIC, Room 3 (2F) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular accent training and lectures to help fellow English teachers to become better educators. GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook. GWANGJU ANIMAL SHELTER VOLUNTEERING Every Sunday. Meet at The First Alleyway at 12 for brunch and carpool to the shelter. Walk dogs between 1–4 pm. Please wear comfortable clothing. See you there! Facebook: Gwangju Animal Shelter Volunteering
Han Ok-hee in April 1969 (left) and present (right).
I WANT TO FIND MY PARENTS & RELATIVES
I want to find my parents or any living relatives. I was abandoned outside Gwangju City Hall, on March 23, 1969. On the same day, I was taken to the Social Welfare Society (대한사회복지회) in Gwangju. My Korean name, Han Ok-Hee, was given to me by a social worker in Gwangju. I was adopted and went to Sweden on September 20, 1969 and am now 49 years old. If anyone has any information, please contact me, in Korean or English. Your information can perhaps fill the missing parts of my sometimes wounded heart. All answers will be replied to. Contact info: Malin Bergström Jordgränd 16 19247 Sollentuna Sweden E-mail: malin.m.bergstrom@outlook.com
Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes. We provide affordable consultation & representation.
▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee
former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese
#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court
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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net
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Making Neonsign 네
온
Date 날짜
Time
사
인
만
들
기
Saturday, January 27, 2018 2018년 1월 27일 (토)
10:00~12:00
시간
Instructor 강사
Language 언어
Class fee 수강료
How to register 신청방법
Contact Info. 문의
LIM Sujeong (Korea) 임수정 (한국)
Korean * English translation provided. 한국어 *영어 통역 제공
35,000 won / For members, 25,000 won 35,000원 / 회원가 25,000원
Online (http://eng.gic.or.kr-Notice) 온라인 (http://gic.or.kr-공지사항)
Jeong Sohee (culture@gic.or.kr) 정소희 (062-226-2733)
※ A Minimum of 5 students are required for class opening. ※ After January 22nd, class fee cannot be funded. ※ 최소 수강신청인원 4명 미만이면 폐강 ※ 재료구입으로 인해 1월 22일 이후 환불불가 [Tuition payment account 수강료 납부 계좌] Kwangju Bank 광주은행 134-107-000999 (Account Holder 예금주: 광주국제교류센터)
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