[EN] Gwangju News July 2018 #197

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I July 2018 #197 I The 2018 Michael Simning Community Builder Award

9:29:05

2018-06-27

.indd 1

_

2018 7

2018 7

_

.indd 2

2018-06-27

9:29:06

1

From the Editor

July 2018, Issue No. 197

S

ummer is officially here: Haji (summer solstice) has passed, Soseo (period of heat) begins on July 7, and the Dog Days begin on the 17th, but most importantly, July’s Gwangju News is out!

Published: July 1, 2018 Cover Photo: Lorryn Smit

Dana Han, winner of the 2018 Michael Simning Community Builder Award.

Story begins on page 8.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Chief Proofreader Layout Editor Proofreaders Photo Editor Photography Team Online Editorial Team Researchers

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Wilson Melbostad Isaiah Winters Karina Prananto Di Foster, David Foster, Elisabeth Loeck Lorryn Smit Annalise Reinhardt, Adam Travis, Sarah Pittman, JT White Karina Prananto, Shahed Kayes Deepika Rani, Kim Joo-seong

The Gwangju News is the first public English monthly magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Logos Color 로고스칼라 (+82)-62-672-2566

GwangjuNews

gwangjunews

GwangjuNewsGIC

For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the editor at: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr.

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.

Venturing outside of the city, we take you to Naju to picnic (Deudeul River), to Yeongam for mountain climbing (Wolchul Mountain), and to Boryeong for a mud festival! The Korean lesson will help you with mud festival expressions. We take you on a tour that visits Jeju-do’s darker history, and then we go over to a bigger island to introduce you to North Korean Juche in Japan.

Our Arts and Culture section brings you poetry (Five Minutes of Sunday), a photo essay (Exploring Photography), a book review (The Reason You Walk), and movie reviews (Marvel Movies). This month, Korea TESOL clears up “fake facts” about children learning English.

And as usual, we bring you City News, the Gwangju Theater Schedule, Upcoming Events, and Community Board – that is about everything you will want and need to know for this month.

We hope you enjoy the Gwangju News. We hope you enjoy July. And we hope that your month of July is made a little more enjoyable because of the Gwangju News.

David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News

July 2018

For advertising and subscription inquiries, please contact karina@gic.or.kr or 062-226-2733.

We tell you what to drink this month (hwachae), what to eat (kimchi jjigae), where to eat (Bingo!), and how to get a driver’s license to drive there.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com Email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr

Things have been happening in Gwangju. We bring you the story of the winner of this year’s Community Builder Award (Dana Han).

We bring you the action from the Gwangju Asia Forum. We bring you news on homeschooling in Usan-dong, and we take you to a deserted schoolturned-inn in Punghyang-dong.

July Every 2018 Schedule Saturday, 4 p.m.

GIC 1F Lounge

JULY 7 Young Adults, Religion and Values: What are the Main Trends Today?

Speaker: Prof. Peter Nils Nynas (Department of Comparative Religion Director, Centre of Excellence in Research Young Adults and Religion in a Global Perspective (YARG) Åbo Akademi University, Finland)

JULY 14 Culinary Tourism in Spain Departamento de Economía Speaker: Narbona Moreno Aránzazu

JULY 21 Digestive Health - Let Us Live Healthy as it is the Ultimate Wealth on Earth Speaker: Dr. Joseph Emerson Raja (Senior Lecturer, Multimedia University, Malaysia)

JULY 28 The Jeju Yemen Refugee Situation Explained Speaker: Wilson Melbostad (Human Rights Lawyer, Organization for Migrant Legal Aid (OMLA) Director)

GICTALK @GICTalk Have an idea about a GIC Talk? Email us at gictalk@gic.or.kr 5, Jungang-ro, 196beon-gil, Dong-gu, Gwangju｜062-226-2733｜gic.or.kr

3

CONTENTS

JULY 2018 #197

GWANGJU NEWS 04. Gwangju City News 05. Gwangju Theater Schedule 06. Upcoming Events: July 56. Community Board FEATURE 08. Recognizing Contributions to the Gwangju Community: The 2018 Michael Simning Community Builder Award COMMUNITY 14. Jeju Dark Tours: A Walk Back to the Start of Modern Korean History 18. The 2018 Gwangju Asia Forum 44. Expat Living: Getting a Korean Driver’s License TRAVEL 20. Lost in Gwangju: Strange Bedfellows at Punghyang Inn 24. Around Korea: Picnic in Naju: Deudeul River 26. From Abroad: Juche in Japan SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 30. The Beauty of Wolchul Mountain

FOOD & DRINKS 39. Beat the Heat with Hwachae 40. Where to Eat: Brunch with Bingo 42. Kimchi Jjigae

July 2018

ARTS & CULTURE 45. Gwangju Writes: Five Minutes of Sunday 46. Photo Essay: Exploring Photography 50. Photo of the Month 52. Movie Review: Top Seven Marvel Movies Not Featuring an Avenger 54. Book Review: “With Courage, Strength, and Grace” – The Reason You Walk by Wab Kinew

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

EDUCATION 33. Everyday Korean: Episode 7 – Boryeong Mud Festival 34. Korea TESOL: What’s the Story on Children Learning English?

36. Church-Home School in Usan-dong

4

Gwangju City News Compiled by Karina Prananto Photograph courtesy of Asia Culture Center Reprinted with permission from Gwangju Metropolitan City

GWANGJU NEWS

New Streetlights to Brighten Gwangju at Night

Gwangju City will carry out a project to replace old streetlights with new ones throughout the remainder of the year. The project will exchange streetlights more than 15 years old with highly efficient and eco-friendly LED ones.

The 1.8 billion won investment will see a total of 1,087 lights replaced on Uncheon-ro, Sangmunuri-ro, and Sangmudae-ro in Seo-gu; Dongmundae-ro, Geumnamro, and Gyeongyeol-ro in Buk-gu; and in the Nambu University area of Gwangsang-gu. Also, new streetlights will be installed along a 1.75 kilometer section of the Shinneoritjae roadway in Dong-gu to prevent nighttime traffic accidents. Once completed, 24 percent of the city’s streetlights will have LED lights.

Barrier-Free Bus Stops to Be Installed

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Gwangju City will install barrier-free bus stops for the disabled and senior citizens for easy accessibility. Last year, the testing of barrier-free bus stops at more than 25 locations got an overwhelmingly positive response.

In April of this year, a site inspection was conducted and 20 locations were selected to be fitted with new barrierfree bus stops at the cost of 170 million won. Similar installations are set to be in 105 different locations by 2021. The disabled community in Gwangju will also help check barrier-free bus stop sites in the future in an effort to reduce any inconveniences.

Gwangju–Daegu Inland Railway Construction Project Preparation Begins

The cities of Gwangju and Daegu recently announced that they will launch a joint research effort regarding the feasibility of the Dalbit Inland Railway Construction Project.

The project will focus on setting an optimal course for the railroad and will analyze the economic effects of the project.

The two cities will submit the results of the study to the

Ministry of Transport and Finance so as to have the project included in the upcoming National Railway Construction Planned Projects to be approved by the Ministry. The Dalbit Inland Railway is expected to span the 191.6 kilometer stretch between Gwangju and Daegu, and will allow for a one-hour commute between the two cities.

“ACC Light Night Tour” Opens at the ACC

The Asia Culture Center (ACC) has organized the “ACC Light Night Tour” as an ACC Tours Special Course program. The tour will be held every Saturday at 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. until August 25. Participants will be taken around the center and shown the different types of structures within the ACC. The tour’s overall theme for summer will be “Forest Light.” Participants will also be able to taste different kinds of Asian food.

To participate, apply online at the ACC homepage (www. acc.go.kr). The maximum number of participants per session is thirty people, and there will be a fee of 5,000 won per person. The tour will take around 40 minutes. Please make reservations at least one day in advance.

Enjoy an “Art Picnic” at Jungoe Park

Jungoe Park in Unam-dong will be filled with interesting art experiences for families every Saturday between 2–6 p.m. from July 16 to November 3. Experiences will include art classes for kids and adults, an art experience room, an art photo zone, and a puzzle tour, among others. For more information, please refer to the Art Picnic homepage (www.artpicnic.kr) or call the office at 062-413-3810.

5

Gwangju Theater

62 Chungjang-ro 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC Wave) TICKETS: 8,000 won CONTACT: 062-224-5858 For more information, please visit http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb, and Hancinema.

All English language films are presented with Korean subtitles; non-English international films are presented with Korean subtitles only.

A ONE AND A TWO

하나그리고 둘 Genre: Drama Director: Edward Yang Film Length: 173 minutes Languages: Japanese, Chinese (Korean subtitles) Starring: Wu Nien-jen, Elaine Jin, Issey Ogata Summary: This film depicts the trials and tribulations of the Jian family of Taipei. The narrative shifts between three perspectives: the middle-aged father, NJ; the young son, Yang-yang; and the teenage daughter, Ting-ting. The film starts with a wedding, concludes with a funeral, and contemplates areas of human life in between.

어느 가족 Genre: Drama Director: Hirokazu Kore-eda Film Length: 121 minutes Language: Japanese (Korean subtitles) Starring: Lily Franky, Sakura Ando, Mayo Matsuoka Summary: Somewhere in Tokyo, Osamu Shibata and his wife, Nobuyo, live in poverty. While Osamu receives occasional employment and Nobuyo has a low-paying job, the family relies in large part on the grandmother’s pension. As he is shoplifting for groceries with his son, Shota, they discover Yuri, a homeless girl. Osamu takes her home, where the family observes evidence of abuse.

A CITY OF SADNESS

비정성시 Genre: Drama Director: Hou Hsiao-hsien Film Length: 157 minutes Language: Chinese (Korean subtitles) Starring: Tony Leung, Sung Young Chen, Jack Kao Summary: The film depicts the Lin family’s experiences during the February 28 Incident. The eldest brother, Wen-heung, is murdered by a Shanghai mafia boss; the middle brother, Wen-leung, suffers a traumatic brain injury in a KMT jailhouse; and the youngest brother, Wen-ching, who is both deaf and mute, hopes to flee to the mountains with his friend to fight in the anti-KMT resistance movement.

July 2018

DUST IN THE WIND 연연풍진 Genre: Drama Director: Hou Hsiao-hsien Film Length: 109 minutes Language: Chinese (Korean subtitles) Starring: Wang Chien-wen, Xin Shufen, Lin Tian-lu Summary: A love story about a young couple from a village in the northeast part of Taiwan. The boy, Ah-yuan, goes to Taipei to work after graduating from junior high

SHOPLIFTERS

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

THE TIME TO LIVE AND THE TIME TO DIE 동년왕사 Genre: Drama Director: Hou Hsiao-hsien Film Length: 138 minutes Language: Chinese (Korean subtitles) Starring: Yu An-shun, Tien Feng, Xin Shufen Summary: Spanning the years 1947–65, the film follows the maturation of Ah-ha as he and his family cope with the shock of leaving their homeland.

Having been just a child during the move, Ah-ha quickly acclimatizes himself to the new country, often putting him at odds with his more traditional family.

school so he can earn money to send home. The girl, Ahyun, follows him the next year, and they work hard to earn enough money to marry. Then Ah-yuan must spend three years in the military, and Ah-yun marries someone else.

6

July 2018 Upcoming Events Compiled by Karina Prananto

07.13–15 World Youth Festival 2018 광주세계청년축제 GWANGJU NEWS

This festival is made by and for youth in Korea and is one of the biggest! Enjoy special performances, fireworks displays, and activities while experiencing programs to learn about diverse countries in the world.

Beat the summer heat with this festival!

Location:

May 18 Democracy Plaza, Geumnamro 1-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 금남로 1가 5.18 민주광장

Admission: Telephone: Website: Photo: World Youth Festival

Free 010-8606-1986/ 062-613-2723 https://www.facebook.com/ wyouthfestival/

07.27–08.02 Jeongnamjin Jangheung Water Festival

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

정남진 장흥 물축제

Also known as the Jeongnamjin Aqua Festival, this event is held annually around the end of July. The festival goes beyond the conventional framework, offering a different range of summer- and water-themed events. Festivalgoers will be introduced to an array of exciting and fun summer games and activities. The multi-dimensional programs include laser and firework shows, hand fishing, a friendship exchange, and many more activities.

Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:

21 Jangheung-ro, Jangheung-eup, Jangheung-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 장흥군 장흥읍 장흥로 21

Free 061-860-0224 http://festival.jangheung.go.kr/festival ▲ Photo: Jangheung County

7

07.28–08.01 Goheung Aerospace Festival 고흥 우주항공축제

Enjoy a one-of-a-kind experience at the Goheung Aerospace Festival, located at the Naro Space Center covering 87,000m2. Visitors will be able to view a life-size replica of the Naro-1 space rocket, experience 3D and 4D theaters, and learn about the Korean aerospace story of the 21st century.

Location:

Admission: Telephone: Website:

Naro Space Center, 490 Naban-ro, Bongnae-myeon, Goheung-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 고흥군 봉래면 하반로 490

Free 061-830-5655 http://festival.goheung.go.kr

▲ Photos: Kim Bum-yong (top), Goheung County (bottom)

07.28–08.03 Gangjin Celadon Festival 강진 청자축제

Location:

Gangjin Goryeo Celadon Kiln Site, 33 Cheongjachon-gil, Daegu-myeon, Gangjin-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 강진군 대구면 청자촌길 33 (사당리)

▲ Photos: Gangjin County

Free 061-430-3331~4 http://www.gangjinfes.or.kr/index_ en.php

July 2018

Admission: Telephone: Website:

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Regarded as a must-see location, Gangjin is the ultimate destination for those who want to explore the southern provinces and their varied historical cultural assets. Offering first-hand experience related to Jeollanam-do in particular, the Gangjin Celadon Festival hosts an exhibition, a celadon sales hall, and a gift-giving event in the spirit of promoting the excellence of Goryeo celadon.

FEATURE

8 8

Recognizing Contributions to the Gwangju Community: The 2018 Michael Simning Community Builder Award

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Written by Jennifer Marlton Photographs by Lorryn Smit, Gwangju International Center, and courtesy of Dana Han

Dana Han, winner of the 2018 Michael Simning Community Builder Award.

99

T

he Michael Simning Awards were created by a group of Gwangju residents in order to recognize contributions made to the Gwangju international community, generally through their volunteer work and/or community projects. The two finalists for this year’s award were Dana Han and Lindsey Herron. Both are long-time residents in Gwangju and have both contributed significantly to the Gwangju community. Winners of the award in the past have included a volunteer at Sungbin Orphanage, a president of the Adopt-a-Child for Christmas initiative, and the creators of Global Families of Gwangju.

Michael Simning was a Canadian expat who was a strong community builder in Gwangju. He initially moved to Gwangju in 1997 and returned later to resume teaching. He was involved with and supported many community groups, translated for the police, and organized volunteers for Sungbin Orphanage.

He was also the owner of several local foreigner haunts, including The First Alleyway and Speakeasy, and helped create a home-away-from-home for many expats in the community.

The awards were organized after his death in 2014 as a way to remember him and the work he did in the community, and to recognize other people making a lasting impact on the Gwangju community.

Dana Han was nominated for her contributions to women in the community. Her nomination referenced her fundraising for a single mother shelter and her work for gender equality.

Rather than defining herself as a feminist, she describes herself as a humanist, as she tries to identify with and find solutions for the issues both women and men face in different aspects of life. This year, in her fourth year involved with the project, she directed Gwangju’s seventh annual production of The Vagina Monologues (by Eve Ensler) for the V-Day Gwangju Project.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

V-Day is an international movement that highlights the issue of violence against women and girls, and aims to prevent it.

It was launched in 1999 and has raised over $100 million for women’s anti-violence groups, including shelters, rape-crisis centers, domestic violence shelters, and safe houses in countries all around the world. The Vagina Monologues is an episodic play that depicts issues many women have faced across different age groups, ethnicities, and sexualities. The play shows the pain and frustration expressed by many women about their treatment in different communities, an issue that has recently been brought into the forefront of the public arena with the #MeToo movement. Han said, “It’s become obvious that people really want to do something about it. ... Women have been talking for ages about rape culture, victim blaming, shame and guilt associated with women’s sexuality, genital mutilation, and just generally about their experiences of inequality. The play

10

▲ Dana (fifth from left) also took part in the Gwangju Citizens’ Politics Festival.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

itself is based on life experiences of a lot of women. It invites people to think about questions that are usually talked about behind closed doors.” The play is often used as a fundraiser to support campaigns and services for preventing violence against women.

However, Han felt that the play was presenting a onesided message. She wanted to adapt it to reach more people and create a dialogue. She wanted inclusion, not a message of finger-pointing or blaming. Han had men working on the production team in past years, but this year she found a play that they could perform as well – a play that also highlighted the issues that men experience in the community, to hear their voices and show the pain they are also experiencing. “After the first year, it became clear to me that it’s not only about women. Men are part of the problem, but they are also part of the solution,” Han said. The Mending Monologues (by Derek Dujardin) was combined with The Vagina Monologues to create one blended play. It was able to show how men are also suffering from violence in the community, directly or indirectly, and to inspire men to actively prevent it. “I

wanted to expand V-Day’s goal into raising awareness about violence against women and girls, as well as against men and boys. There are no winners in this genderrelated mess, we all lose. I believe we need to educate and inspire our boys and girls to create relationships based not on gender but on our personalities, talents, passions, and capacities,” Han said.

Han is also very passionate about non-violent communication, restorative justice, and conflict resolution.

She has been conducting workshops for high school students and parents, and recently at the GIC on this issue.

“I think a lot of the painful conflicts can be prevented if we learn how to disagree, how to communicate our differences, how to see our common humanity. I believe this is a skill that has to be learned and practiced. ... I don’t want to deal with the results of violence, I want to learn how to prevent it. I’m inviting people to consider a different approach to conflict resolution that might lead to connection instead of alienation. If you are willing to try and see how this approach works, come join us. We will be meeting every Sunday at 1 p.m. until the middle of July [at the GIC],”

11 1111

Dana (third from right) and her friends fundraising for the Vagina Monologues at Daein Market.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

William Mulligan (right), presenting the award to Dana Han on June 2, 2018.

12

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

▲ Dana is also celebrating Simning’s birthday on award day with his daughter, Eun-sol (center), at the Gwangju International Center.

Han said. She also has plans to give presentations at high schools on how gender bias can influence relationships and at universities on issues of consent.

I’m delighted to be counted among them as I try to contribute in my own small ways. I’ve always admired Mike Simning.”

Lindsay Herron was nominated for her work with the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL), which is a volunteer organization for English language teachers to develop their professional skills. She was nominated for transforming it into a powerhouse organization. Her talents have been recognized throughout the community – she regularly gives presentations and workshops, and she is a role model for teachers in the community. Originally from the United States, 2018 marks her eleventh year in Gwangju, and she is currently the president of the Gwangju Chapter of KOTESOL. She has been involved in a leadership capacity with both the Gwangju branch and at a national level since 2013. She tries to contribute to the community when she can by making donations and helping out, and her classes have been involved with the Gwangju Adopta-Child for Christmas program for several years. This was her first time to be nominated for an award for her work in the community, and she was very surprised by the announcement. In response, Herron said, “The Gwangju community is robust with many deserving volunteers – people who are really the lifeblood of the community.

“I am just doing things that I believe in or am inspired by.

I am basically doing it for myself.”

Herron attributes her involvement in KOTESOL for making her the teacher she is today. She is involved with the chapter partly to “pay it forward” and contribute to teachers in the community who want to develop professionally. She finds the work incredibly rewarding and is able to pursue projects that interest her. KOTESOL has become a great way to socialize and network, not only through the workshops and conferences but also through its annual events.

13 This year the awards were held on June 2. The ceremony is held at the beginning of June each year because Simning’s birthday was on June 4. The awards began with short stories and reminiscences that recognized Simning’s friendships and contributions to Gwangju society. The winner this year was Han, who received a plaque and 300,000 won to contribute to the charity of her choice.

(Both nominees also received a Hawaiian shirt, a staple of the Simning wardrobe.)

When Han found out about the award, she had a mixture of feelings. She said, “I’ve been in a social activist [frame of] mind ... as long as I can remember. I remember thinking, okay, there is a problem, what can be done about it? What is my role in this?” Being nominated for this award is a sign to Han that some people find things she does valuable to the community. Han concluded, “This is very gratifying and inspiring. On the other hand, I know that, similar to all of the nominees, I am just doing

things that I believe in or am inspired by. I am basically doing it for myself.”

Side note: If any of the readers believe that issues of gender bias, toxic masculinity and femininity, consent, and violence prevention need to be discussed with the youth, then anyone interested in creating and conducting programs for schools and universities should contact Han through her Facebook account: https://www.facebook. com/dana.han.71 THE AUTHOR Jennifer is from Australia and is currently working as an English teacher in Gwangju.

She loves writing, traveling, and experiencing different cultures. She has enjoyed exploring and experiencing the different aspects of Gwangju during her time here.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

▲ Dana (right) at the recent successful Vagina Monologues performance that she directed. (Photo by Ben Robins)

COMMUNITY

14 14 Community Leaders

The tour group in front of the April 3rd Memorial Hall.

Jeju Dark Tours

A Walk Back to the Start of Modern Korean History

July 2018

L

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Written by Anastasia Traynin Photographed by Anastasia Traynin and courtesy of Jeju Dark Tours

Well known for its beautiful beaches, plentiful citrus fruits, and surging tourism, the southern island of Jeju holds a dark and often forgotten history. When I first

iving in Gwangju, walking down Geumnam-ro, and around the blue fountain, clock tower, and the former Jeollanam-do Provincial Office, it is hard to miss the various commemorations of the May 18 Democratic Uprising. The truth of that 1980 national tragedy and spark for democratization was hardly known outside of activist circles before the 1990s, and the full story continues to be uncovered to this day. Yet the 5.18 incident is not the first case of the Korean government committing atrocities against its own citizens and covering it up for years.

visited in summer 2012, I brought my bike on the ferry and cycled down to Gangjeong Village in Seogwipo, the site of a prolonged struggle against the now-completed and operational joint civilian and military Korean naval base.

At the time, I only heard a brief mention of the history of violence that predated the events in Gangjeong. On subsequent visits, I learned more about the connections between the naval base, Jeju as an Island of Peace, and mass grave sites and memorials that could be found in nearly every village on the island.

As the year 2018 marks the 70th anniversary of Jeju’s April 3rd Uprising and Massacre, an education campaign has been mounted nationwide, including President Moon Jae-in’s attendance at the 4.3 Memorial on Jeju, complete

15 with a formal apology for violence committed by the state. Along with this, a local non-governmental organization (NGO) called Jeju Dark Tours: The Unforgettable Past has opened to give a glimpse into these tragic and buried events. With experience in Southeast Asia and at the large Seoul-based NGO coalition People’s Solidary for Participatory Democracy, human rights activist Baek Gayoon moved down to Jeju Island in November 2017 to co-found her Dark Tours project. With her command of Korean and English, she is able to give separate tours for Koreans and interpreted tours for foreigners, including special programs for activists coming from abroad.

Along with a group of seventeen other international participants, mostly English teachers on Jeju, I went on the first general weekend tour on May 12–13. As a non-Jeju native, the amount of love and solidarity that Baek poured into sharing the local history was a true testament to her activist spirit, which she passed on to all of us. After meeting at Jeju Airport on Saturday morning, we boarded our tour bus and rode to the first important stop: lunch. Sharing Jeju-style bibimbap with lovely soup and side dishes was a safe space in which to start the relationships

that would build between many of the participants during the weekend.

The next stop was Jeju 4.3 Peace Park with its museum, memorial altar, and symbolic mass graves. It was my third visit to this site further inland towards Halla Mountain, with its windswept open space that was chosen for a rare absence of actual graves. As usual, it projected an eerie and barren mood, but Baek’s excellent walkthrough of the museum exhibit put me right back into those early post-colonial days. The Jeju Uprising officially began in 1948, three years after liberation from Japan. Between then and the following six years, an estimated thirty thousand Jeju citizens (10% of the population) were killed under suspicion of being “reds” during a militant national anti-communist campaign. Before the social movement of the late 1970s and the 1980s shed some light on the massacre, the people of Jeju could not openly speak about the tragedy and trauma that had befallen their home. Generations lived and died without public acknowledgement of their profound loss.

Finally, former President Kim Dae-jung signed the 4.3 Special Law in 2000, creating the National Committee for Investigation of the Truth about

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Baekjoilsonjiji Graveyard of 100 Ancestors.

16 16

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Baek Gayoon explaining about the events at the 43 Peace Museum.

The group meets Go Wan-soon, a Bukchon Village massacre survivor.

17

The Bukchon Village Massacre Memorial.

the Jeju 4.3 Events. President Moon’s recent apology was preceded by that of former President Roh Moo-hyun in 2003, but there was still more to be uncovered.

By the time we parted with Baek and the others, it was difficult to return to the normal weekly routine, having gone back seventy years in time in such a beautiful but haunted setting. With the next general tour for international residents coming up September 15–16, the Jeju Dark Tours is sure to instill more of a reverence for the past that leads to an understanding of the present and future.

Facebook: @jejudarktours Website: http://blog.naver.com/jejudarktours THE AUTHOR

Anastasia Traynin (Ana) was the 2014–2015 online editor for Gwangju News and recently left her role as co-managing editor during her time as GIC coordinator. She is pursuing a master’s degree in Korean studies in Seoul. Her interests include social movements, alternative education, feminism, and the environment.

July 2018

After a heavy, stormy night and much-needed decompression and reflection following Saturday’s tour, we were fortunate to experience a sunny Sunday on Jeju.

The stops were no less deep and historical: a walk around

the Imperial Japanese anti-aircraft emplacement Soedal Oreum, a mass graveyard of 100 ancestors, and the house of the famous “lady without a chin” – 4.3 survivor Jin Ahyoung who lived in the tiny building until her death in 2004.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Volcanic Jeju Island is also known for its caves, many of them literally deep holes in the ground. Jeju native O Muel’s 2012 feature movie Jiseul (Jeju dialect for “potato”) depicts targeted villagers living for months in one of these natural hiding spots. Our third stop on the Dark Tour was a walk through the forest to stand above the well-known Seonheul Doteul Cave, where we could imagine how the terrified islanders spent their last days before being discovered and shot. Our last Saturday stop before dinner was at Bukcheon Village, considered the first spark of the Jeju Uprising, where we heard from a primary source: Go Wan-soon, the chairperson of the Senior Villagers Association who witnessed the massacre at age nine.

Passing through tears of traumatic memories, Go also revealed her delight at the chance to meet President Moon at the memorial on April 3. For many tour participants, hearing Go’s story was one of the most poignant parts of the weekend.

The Seonheul Doteul Cave Hiding Place.

18 18

The 2018 Gwangju Asia Forum

COMMUNITY

Written by Zico Mulia Photographs courtesy of May 18 Memorial Foundation

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

T

he 2018 Gwangju Asia Forum and the 2018 Gwangju Prize for Human Rights Award Ceremony were held on May16–17 at the May 18 Memorial Culture Center. The annual forum to commemorate the May 18 Democratic Uprising and the Asian Human Rights Charter (People’s Charter) declaration was attended by more than 150 people, among whom were human rights activists, trade unionists, a member of parliament, scholars, youth, and guests from 22 countries across Asia, Europe, and North America. This year is the 20th anniversary of the Asian Human Rights Charter’s promulgation. In May 1998, the May 18 Memorial Foundation and the Asian Human Rights Commission (AHRC), together with representatives from the attending countries, announced the charter’s promotion in Gwangju.

The chairperson of the May 18 Memorial Foundation, Lee Cheol-woo, in the opening speech said that “The Asian Human Rights Charter originated from the necessity of a practical mechanism that could ensure the acceptance of the universality of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and could also ensure people’s rights in Asia.” He

added that, after 20 years of promotion, many states have responded to the ceaseless struggles for the advancement of human rights for Asian people with eye-opening progress. The Director Policy & Programs at the AHRC, Basil Fernando, in his keynote address conveyed, “Today, we have gathered to discuss three documents: declarations on the right to justice, the right to peace, and the right to culture and cultural identity.” All three of these documents are interlinked and therefore carry a common theme.

Basil added that the reason we choose to reinforce the right to justice is because without such a right, the rights to peace, culture, and cultural identity cannot be achieved.

In addition to speeches given by representatives from both organizations, there were also speeches made by special guests including Martha Huntley (wife of the late Rev. Charles Betts Huntley), Mrs. Barbara Peterson (wife of the late Rev. Arnold Peterson), Mr. Lee Jong-hyeon (consultant for the Koreans in Europe Solidarity), Prof. Yun Woo-seop, and Mr. Seol Gap-su.

During the two days of the 2018 Gwangju Asia Forum, with the theme of “Time to Implement,” the AHRC held a

19 The 2018 Gwangju Prize for Human Rights Award Ceremony On May 18, after participants visited the May 18 National Cemetery in the morning and watched A Taxi Driver, a movie based on actual events that took place during the May 18 (1980) Democratic Uprising, the Gwangju Prize for Human Rights (GPHR) award ceremony was held.

The prize was established in 2000 in an effort to promote the spirit of the May 18 Democratic Uprising. Selected individuals or organizations are from around the world and have made significant contributions to the advancement of human rights, unity, solidarity, and world peace.

This year, the GPHR selection committee selected Nandana Manatunga, a Catholic father and representative of the Human Rights Office in Sri Lanka. Fr. Manatunga has worked to help victims of state violence who have suffered under the dictatorship of that country. The committee acknowledged that his activities fit the purposes of the prize. The award ceremony started with a short speech and words of appreciation from the chairperson of The May 18 Memorial Foundation and the mayor of Gwangju, Yun Jang-hyeon. The ceremony then proceeded with the award ceremony by the chairperson of The May 18 Memorial Foundation and ended with an acceptance speech from Fr. Manatunga.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com ▲ Fr. Nandana (left) received the award presented by May 18 Memorial Foundation Chairman Lee Cheol-su.

July 2018

separate discussion on the Asian Declaration on the rights to justice, culture, and peace that reflected the situation in several Asian countries. In addition to the above sessions, there were several discussion forums with other important themes such as the International Conference on Trauma from State Violence (organized by the Gwangju Trauma Center); the Youth Leadership Forum for Democracy (organized by the Asia Democracy Network); the Grassroots Organizations Support Workshop (co-organized by the May 18 Memorial Foundation and the Gwangju Human Rights and Peace Foundation); the May 18 Education Forum (co-organized by the May 18 Memorial Foundation and the Gwangju Metropolitan Office of Education); the East Asia Democracy, Human Rights, and Peace Networks meeting (organized by the May 18 Memorial Foundation); and a session on May 18 and Journalism (co-hosted by the May 18 Memorial Foundation, the Association of Discharged Journalists–1980, and the May 18 Institute of Chonnam National University). Each forum produced important perspectives for the participants, and summaries of the various sessions were delivered at the end of the forum’s second day.

THE AUTHOR Zico is a master’s degree program student at Chonnam National University, majoring in interdisciplinary NGO studies. Hailing from Indonesia, he is also active as a human rights defender and pro-democracy activist. Zico likes to read, listen to music, sports, and traveling.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

FEATURE TRAVEL

2020 Lost in Gwangju

S

tagnating somewhere in Gwangju’s Punghyang-dong is a time-warped dormitory with an odd twist. From the outside, the abandoned red brick inn with white-trimmed windows and eaves looks like nothing more than an oldfashioned school. However, inside where spacious classrooms should be, there are instead long concrete corridors lined with tiny partitioned rooms, each with its own little loft and grimy kitchenette. Among the many fetid rooms, the freshest sign of life is a lone dog skull with no body in sight. Eerie as this place may be, it still isn’t all that unusual of a find. It’s at the end of a second-story corridor that things take an unexpected turn.

There a door gives way to a large, open room unlike any other part of the building. Lined with dusty old bookshelves, yellowed maps, and a retro chalkboard, the vintage learning space immediately puts the inn’s crude dwellings to shame.

All around, the room’s weathered paper windows (창호지 창문), many perforated by time, provide a stream of warm, sepiatoned light that gives the study hall a uniquely halcyon feel. In a corner, a clunky chalkboard eraser cleaner begs you to Photo: Time-worn corridors lead to and from dingy lodgings.

2121

Strange Bedfellows at Punghyang Inn Written and photographed by Isaiah Winters

Needless to say, this coupling of dingy, downscale lodgings with a warm, homey schoolroom makes for strange bedfellows.

It also makes the place worth researching, difficult as that may be.

More than just a simple flophouse for transients of all backgrounds, it likely functioned as student housing at some

July 2018

For starters, the site is situated near Gwangju National University of Education, which provides a major clue as to its purpose. An old aerial photo of the university from 1960 turned up online; however, the inn’s location is just barely outside the photo’s frame, making it hard to say whether it dates back that far. I suspect it doesn’t.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

give it a few cranks. Made decades ago by Edison, a Korean company, it’s still great fun to operate and gives you the sense that you’re doing yeoman’s work.

22 22

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

A view of Punghyang Inn from the outside.

point, with a humble educational annex for reading, learning, and checking out books.

Published in the 1980s and 1990s, most of the books were geared toward high school and university students – another clue. Despite their relatively recent publishing dates, the books generally look beat to death, which suggests they might have been donations and/ or subjected to a revolving door of young scholars who put them through hell.

Many of the books have 풍향숙 (Punghyang Inn) written on the side – evidently the site’s name. The Internet is completely devoid of this name, save one lonely message board post from 2003 where a poster, writing to a friend, claims to have been on standby at Punghyang Inn “24 hours a day” and says they should get in touch whenever said friend is in town. Unfortunately, on my visit 15 years later (almost to the day), no such person on standby could be found. Without further help

from the Internet, what remains onsite has had to suffice.

Featured most prominently on the wall of the classroom is a 1983 student pledge written in beautiful black ink brushstrokes listing the dos and don’ts of Punghyang Inn. The first commandment forbids drinking, gambling, and smoking; the second loud singing, swearing, and mayhem; and the third sleeping off premises, bunking with outsiders, and letting in outsiders. Chief among the list’s dos is to eat, sleep, study, and nourish for a balanced life; next is to live a life of planning and preparation; and then to practice diligence, frugality, and cleanliness. For the record, the don’ts outnumber the dos 16 to 15 – a narrow schoolmarm victory.

Another prominent piece of classroom memorabilia is a large easel with white sheets of paper detailing the ornate brushstroke order

23 of hanja (Chinese characters). By exposing each character’s underlying bone structure, as it were, the instructive outlines reveal the complexity behind every point of contact.

When viewed like this in skeletal form, the loose, flowing veneer of hanja calligraphy is stripped down to its most precise, almost mathematical undertones. The final product is a flourish of chaos moored by order.

Another notable feature of the schoolroom is one of its two time-worn maps of Korea.

Hailing from 1975, it uses an unusual Romanization system that gets the vowels right but botches certain final–initial consonant combinations. The result is an alternate universe with destinations like “Jeon ra nam do” (Jeollanam-do) and “Mogpo” (Mokpo). The map also features sporadic icons representing what each of Korea’s regions is “known for.” For example, there’s an image of a little hiker trekking through Hwasun and a rather possum-like Jindo dog (진도개) guarding Jindo Island.

Strangely, only Gwangju’s main icon has been deliberately rubbed off the map, perhaps by some angsty, self-loathing teen or a prudish teacher attempting to remove that teen’s lewd embellishments. It looks like we’ll never know what the Gwangju of 1975 was reduced to on this particular map. Beyond these and a few other trifling details, there’s not much I can definitively say about Punghyang Inn. It’s just another one of those strange old things scattered around Gwangju. And much like Gwangju’s long-lost icon, maybe it’s a better story if some things remain a mystery.

THE AUTHOR

Originally from Southern California, Isaiah Winters first came to Gwangju in 2010. He recently returned to South Korea after completing his MA in Eastern Europe and is currently the new chief proofreader for the Gwangju News. He enjoys writing, political science, and urban exploring.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018 Books on offer at Punghyang Inn.

TRAVEL

24 Around Korea

2525

Picnic in Naju: Deudeul River Written and photographed by Karina Prananto

A

s spring slips away and summer enters in, I am sure many of us have already started to think about vacation plans. While most of us might think of going to beaches or mountain streams, there is one place near Gwangju that offers peace and quiet yet at the same time provides fun: Naju’s Deudeul River.

Naju offers many places to take an excursion close to Gwangju. Deudeul River (드들강) is a perfect location for picnics, camping, and fishing. The river is located about 20 kilometers from downtown Gwangju, which takes around 40 minutes to reach by car due to the lack of direct highways. I visited the site recently and although it is lacking in beach and sand, it still is a nice place to relax.

But this history should not deter you from making a visit, as it is a nice place to relax with family and have a chat or deep conversation with friends. I truly recommend this place as a short excursion from Gwangju to enjoy nature with a picnic or by camping.

Try visiting the area on a weekday and bring your own tent and supplies. The local government has provided basic facilities such as toilets, a shower area, and a small convenience store. Just make sure you come with your own garbage bag as it is difficult to find bins in the area.

To get there, you can type into your GPS “드들강 (전라남도 나주시 남평읍 남석리 732).”

Unfortunately, there are no buses going directly to the area, so you might want to rent a car. There is, however, a bus option that gets you to a stop about ten minutes or so from the area: Bus 999 from downtown Gwangju with a transfer to bus 201 will take about one hour and a half. Put Deudeul River on your list of go-to getaways for this summer.

솔밭유원지

THE AUTHOR

Karina is from Indonesia and has been living in Gwangju since 2006. She loves reading, traveling, and driving with her family. She also loves watching horror movies whenever she has the chance!

July 2018

Nature along Deudeul River is rather secluded, but a perfect quiet getaway, provided you do not visit on the weekend or during peak season. The river is clear but somewhat cold and deep, so it is not recommended for swimming. Fishing is allowed but not hunting. You may cook, but the use of coals is forbidden; it is recommended that you bring a gas burner instead. Although the area is flat, due to the tall, thick trees, sports activities such as playing catch

In addition to being a quiet and secluded place, the site also has a dark history. If you research the river, you will definitely come across articles of two murder cases that happened in the area. Although these incidents happened more than ten years ago, the cases were pretty big at the time, so these incidents are probably what come to mind for many Koreans living in the surrounding region when they hear talk of “Deudeul River”!

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Upon arriving, you will need to cross a bridge, approximately 300 meters long, that separates you from the main road. Fortunately, the river is wide enough to block the sounds of cars from the other side.

The hills surrounding the area provide shade from the scorching sun, while tall trees and the apparent lack of nearby houses give you the impression that you are no longer anywhere near Gwangju. In fact, it is so green that I thought I was in the middle of the countryside! On the weekday I was there, there were about five tents around us. I expect that the area could be much busier on weekends, as evidenced by the spacious parking lot that can accommodate many visitors. Families frequently come here and set up camp. One bonus is that you do not have to reserve any space in advance, as you can set up your equipment in any available space.

or badminton may be difficult. Still, you can enjoy camping or staying in a caravan instead if you bring lots of board games!

26 From Abroad

Juche in Japan

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

TRAVEL

Written and photographed by Ryan Berkebile

Nature takes over the former Dono Joseon Elementary and Middle School.

27

D

ono Joseon Elementary and Middle School (도노조선초중급학교) sits upon a hill, offering a spectacular view of Toki, Japan. The school has been closed since 1998,[1] and now kudzu (Japanese arrowroot) is slowly enveloping the space. The invasive weed tangles itself in rusty playground equipment and leisurely engulfs the school building.

The former auditorium has already become camouflaged, offering a preview of the main building’s fate.

This place is not a tourist destination in the traditional sense, but for me hopping on trains and buses to unknown rural locations is the ideal vacation. I am not the only one who enjoys searching for places forgotten by time. There is an international subculture of explorers who also enjoy searching for haikyo, the Japanese word for “ruins.” Type in “haikyo” or “urban exploration” into Google Search and you will find countless blogs devoted to the hobby. Many explorers have explored and documented Dono Joseon Elementary and Middle School throughout the years. With a captivated interest in all things North Korea and urban exploration, I knew I had to visit this former school – a school that was funded through the Dear Leader’s de facto embassy in Japan, The General Association of Korean Residents in Japan, or Chongryon (총련).

July 2018

The ideal scenario is discovering a building that is completely forgotten – as if the people just walked away and never came back. Free of vandalism and litter, it provides a tiny glimpse into the last moments of human occupation.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Before I share my exploration, please bear with me as I expand on my aesthetics of urban exploration. As the adage goes, “beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” Some might only see the wreckage of a structure. For me, seeing nature take over a space once occupied by humans is a thing of wonder. It is also a grounding reminder that humans are not the only beings that thrive on this planet. Countless species of flora and fauna reclaim the space as shelter. I have seen birds construct nests in corners of unused rooms and swarms of bees and their hives thrive in these conditions. Trees and plants remarkably find a way to grow through cracks in asphalt and concrete. Life in all forms can adapt to the environment it is placed in.

28 28

▲ One of the many classrooms that have been vandalized.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

It is like coming across a time capsule; part of the fun is creating a reasonable narrative of the people who spent their lives there. From my experience, it is better to have low expectations when exploring a new space because then any artifact discovered would be a cause for fascination, and that is a win in my book. My only goal at this site was to find some evidence straight out of Pyongyang.

You might find yourself asking, “Why are there North Korean schools in Japan?” After the liberation of Korea from Japan and before the political division into North and South Korea, the Japanese government registered any permanent ethnic Korean resident in Japan, or jaeil gyopo (재일교포), a citizen of Joseon, the kingdom that ruled the Korean Peninsula prior to Japanese occupation. The government to this day does not recognize North Korea as a legitimate state on the Korean Peninsula. In 1965,[2] jaeil gyopo were given the opportunity to adopt South Korean or Japanese nationality. Anyone who identified as Joseon was automatically registered as North Korean.

As mentioned earlier, the Japanese government does not

recognize North Korea as a true state. With no North Korean embassy in Japan, Joseon nationals living in Japan rely on Chongryon to provide support. Chongryon schools are taught in Korean with a curriculum furnished by the North Korean government. In the front of the classrooms hang honorary photos of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. In some classrooms, teachers and students wear traditional Korean clothing. Schools like these provide an opportunity for students to learn their mother tongue and form a sense of cultural identity even though they might not ever set foot in North Korea.

Entering the front gate, I realize this building will raise many questions yet offer few answers. All I can do is posit theories. Stepping into the school feels like reentering Korea. Hangeul (Korean alphabetic script) persists everywhere: in books, on receipts, and even on the chalkboard. Unresolved math equations dated September 1, 1997, have survived twenty years’ worth of vandalism.

As I wander from classroom to classroom, I imagine students discussing the Eternal President’s ideology of self-reliance, or Juche (주체). If students wore traditional outfits at school, did they change out of them before

29

departing to avoid alienation by locals?

Based on the evidence found, the first-floor classes were occupied by the elementary-aged students. Electric pink cubbies close to the ground are eye-catching despite the years of neglect. A child’s Mickey and Minnie Mouse toothbrush is the other indicator young children inhabited this space. Here students learned how to be ideal members of the Korean Children’s Union (조선소년단). Did these young ones don the red scarf to show allegiance to the Fatherland?

I might never get a chance to head to North Korea, but visiting this old school gave me tiny morsels that fed my imagination with what it means to be associated with the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) and the Kim family dynasty. Though I did not find any grandiose propaganda posters, I encountered artifacts such as Workers’ Party (조선로동당) books and a signboard that told me who was a teacher for second-year middle school students. I finally know that mobeom (모범) means “examplary” or “model” after coming across a defaced picture frame that at one time contained the faces of

Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, models of the proletariat par excellence. This exploration was my ideal vacation.

Traversing the less-explored areas of a country is a great way to avoid the crowded frenzies of tourist traps while gaining insight at the same time.

[1] Seidel, F. (2012). North Korean School in Gifu/Chongryon School [Web log]. Retrieved from https://abandonedkansai. com/2012/01/05/north-korean-school-in-gifu-chongryonschool/ [2] Anonymous. (2013, July 1). Why Are There North Korean Schools in Japan? Retrieved from The Economist website: https:// www.economist.com/the-economist-explains/2013/06/30/ why-are-there-north-korean-schools-in-japan

THE AUTHOR

Ryan Berkebile is an English teacher, analog camera fanatic, and urban explorer living in Gwangju. He has been teaching in Korea since 2005 with brief stops in Vietnam and Japan along the way. Visit longdistancerunner. org or @zen_compass to see photos of his explorations.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Various books of Workers’ Party literature can still be discovered at the school.

The sign at the entrance of the school.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

30 30

Wolchul Mountain sports some fantastic views of the towns and other landmarks below it.

3131

The Beauty of Wolchul Mountain Written by Natale Ryan Photographed by Wilson Melbostad

S

outh Korea is a country that is both rich in history and beautiful landscapes. From the beaches of Busan to the picturesque mountains of Pyeongchang, there is always something new to see and experience. Since hiking is a favorite pastime among many Koreans, and one of the most profitable markets among retailers, it would be a mistake to write about outdoor activities and not mention it. Since I first came to live abroad, I had not ventured out to climb any of Korea’s fine mountains, but that all changed this past month.

In Jeollanam-do, in the small town of Yeongam, there is a national park named Wolchulsan National Park. “Wolchulsan” (월출산), meaning “mountain where the moon rises,” became Korea’s 20th national park in 1988. The mountain’s highest peak, Cheonhwang-bong, is 809 meters above sea level. The entrance to the park is not too difficult to get to, and it is quite easy to get a taxi to and from the main gate. There are several coffee shops dotting the entrance and a small convenience store that sells small bottles of sunscreen and plenty of bottled water. If you are planning a trek to the top of the mountain, or even just to Cloud Bridge, it would be wise to grab a few supplies as the climb is steep and demanding.

Once you venture up the driveway leading to the camping area, take a left and you will step onto a path that leads to the mountain trail. In the past, I would have been surprised to find staircases built into the jutting rocks of any mountainside, but now I know the necessity of such staircases as “hiking” here is more challenging than the casual hiking that I was used to. On the way up, there are many piled boulders that you can easily hoist yourself up onto in order to reach the top. Most of the time, I would sigh with relief when I saw a staircase, but even then, as I climbed my legs would remind me that the stairs were installed mainly for safety rather than ease.

As I ventured higher, I was rewarded with a grand view from the hundreds of meters that I had conquered. Though it seemed to be strenuous, I was treated to beautiful babbling brooks and twisted roots each step of the way. The sun was not too much of an annoyance, and sunblock was not so necessary, but then again, it was only April at the time. The trees overhead gave a much needed and welcomed shade, yet enough sky filtered through the leaves so that I was still treated to the most beautiful blue sky. www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Though beautiful, the trail is not recommended for very young or inexperienced hikers. Anyone daring to go

July 2018

32

The majestic Cloud Bridge suspended high over the rocks below.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

beyond Cloud Bridge, which is about 1.7 kilometers up from the starting point (and 510 meters above sea level), would probably need climbing gear and steady feet. Cloud Bridge, also known as Gureum-dari (구름달리), is worth the hike. Painted bright orange, the bridge is about 53 meters long, five meters wide, and is suspended 120 meters above the ground. The bridge is stretched between two peaks, and the view from each is breathtaking. The area is surrounded by rocks so high and flat that you can sit atop them and look out over Jeollanam-do.

Though I enjoyed my afternoon, I was relieved to be finished with my adventure. Going back down the mountain is not as strenuous, but it is very steep. I recommend a pair of sturdy, trustworthy shoes and a hiking pole. Overall, I highly recommend Wolchul Mountain if you are looking for a fulfilling way to spend your time.

Presently, the park offers hiking courses that range from moderate to extremely difficult. You can visit the park’s visitor center or find more information on their website: http://english.knps.or.kr/ THE AUTHOR

Natale is an English teacher in Mokpo. She is from Memphis, Tennessee, in the United States. She attended college in Jonesboro, Arkansas, and majored in criminology and sociology. In her free time, she enjoys watching scary movies and writing short stories. Her favorite movies are To Kill a Mockingbird, E.T., and Memento. Her heroes are Snoopy and Audrey Hepburn.

The peaceful backside of Wolchul Mountain.

3333

TOPIK Guide (topikguide.com) is the most comprehensive website devoted to the TOPIK exam. It’s been helping Korean language learners pass the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) for more than seven years. On this website, you can get all the TOPIK updates, grammar and vocabulary material, and study tips.

Everyday Korean

Episode 7: Boryeong Mud Festival Written by Harsh Kumar Mishra Korean Language Expert at TOPIKGUIDE.COM

아나:

정민 씨, 바쁘지 않으면 다음 주 놀러 갈까요?

정민:

좋아요. 그런데 이렇게 날씨가 더운데, 갈만한 곳이 있겠어요?

[Jo-ayo. Geu-reonde i-reoke nal-ssiga deo-unde, gal-man-han

goshi Ikke-sseoyo.]

Jeong-min: Sure, but do you think there’s a good place to go in this hot weather?

아나:

네. 다음주에 가기 좋은 곳을 알아요.

Ana:

[Ne. Da-eum-ju-e gagi jo-eun go-seul a-rayo.]

Yup. I know just the place we can go to next week.

정민:

그 곳이 어디예요? [Geu goshi eo-di-yeyo?]

Jeong-min: Where is it?

아나:

보령머드축제예요. 시원한 머드 놀이도 하고 바닷가에서 수영도 할 수 있어요.

Ana:

[Bo-ryeong-meod-chukje-yeyo. Siwon-han meo-deu nori-do hago badat-ka-eseo suyeong-do hal su isseoyo.]

It’s the Boryeong Mud Festival. There we can play in the mud and enjoy swimming at the beach.

~을/ㄹ 까요?

Attach this to a verb stem to express “Shall we (V)? / May I (V)?”

Ex: 내일 등산하러 갈까요?

Shall we go hiking tomorrow?

~부터 ~까지 Attach this to dates/days to show the meaning “From ~ to~” Ex: 저는 월요일부터 금요일까지 학교를 다녀요.

I go to school from Monday to Friday. 놀러가다: to go somewhere to hang out 시원하다: to be refreshing 바닷가: beach 놀이: sport / game / play 대박: awesome 추천: recommendation 축제: festival

#KoreaLifeHacks 1.

정민:

아나:

Ana:

2.

7월 13일부터 7월 22일까지 한다고 들었어요.

[Chil-wol ship-sam-il-buteo chil-wol i-ship-i-il-kkaji han-dago deu-reosseoyo.]

I heard that it’s from July 13 to July 22.

3.

그럼 우리 7월 15일 일요일에 갈까요?

아나:

좋아요.[Jo-ayo.]

Sounds good.

[Geu-reom uri chil-wol ship-o-il ir-yo-ire gal-kkayo?]

Jeong-min: Then shall we go on Sunday, July 15?

Ana:

Visit the TOPIK Guide website or our YouTube channel to improve your Korean and reach your goal on the TOPIK test.

July 2018

정민:

The Boryeong Mud festival is one of the most famous festivals in Korea during the summertime. It’s got amazing vibes, enthusiastic crowds, and various performances from famous K-pop artists.

Another place to visit during July 7–16 is the Buyeo Seodong Lotus Festival (located in Buyeo-gun, Chungcheongnam-do), which is held at Gungnamji Pond, the first manmade pond in the country. The most popular event at this festival is the performance showcasing the love story between Prince Seodong (King Muwang’s childhood name) and Princess Seonhwa.

During July 26–30, Pohang will be holding the Pohang International Fireworks Festival. The festival offers fantastic views of the ocean at night as it is lit up by fireworks displays made by representative teams from different countries competing in the fireworks competition.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

대박 추천이네요. 머드축제는 언제부터 언제까지 해요?

[Daebak chu-cheon-i-neyo. Meodeu-chukje-neun eonje-bu-teo

eonje-kkaji haeyo?]

Jeong-min: Wow. That’s a really awesome recommendation. So, when is the

mud festival happening?

Grammar & Vocabulary EDUCATION

[Jeongmin ssi, ba-ppeuji a-neu-myeon da-eum ju nol-leo gal kkayo?]

Ana: Jeongmin, if you’re not busy, do you want to hang out sometime

next week?

34

What’s the Story on Children Learning English?

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David E. Shaffer

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

L

earning English is a big thing in Korea. And for the past two decades it has been a big thing for young learners as compulsory English education has moved to the elementary schools. Korea has 180,000 elementary school teachers who, among other subjects, teach English.

English is also taught at a considerable number of Korea’s 45,000 kindergartens, and a substantial number of the expat English teachers in Korea are involved in teaching young learners. That is a lot of people. And there is a lot of “talk” out there, much of it propagated by laypeople, about how children learn English, or any second language. Let us take a look at some of these notions, or shall we call them “fake facts” (a.k.a. myths), as related to the Korean context.

Fake Fact 1: Children learn additional languages faster and more easily than others.

We have heard so much about the “critical period” and that second languages become much harder to learn after the onset of adolescence. But research is showing that the “critical period” is not so critical. To the layman’s eye, it seems that children learn languages effortlessly because they are not sweating over coursebooks or memorizing long lists of vocabulary words.

Young learners learn differently than older learners. They learn because they are motivated to learn – they want to understand or convey a message – not because they have

to do well on some high-stakes test. Their method of learning is different: because their analytical skills are not yet fully developed, they do not have that aspect to rely on. Instead, they rely on the trial and error of using the language communicatively. Actually, research shows that under similar conditions, it takes children longer to learn the same thing than it does for older English learners.

Fake Fact 2: The younger the children, the more skilled they are at learning a second language.

We have said above that the so-called critical period is not so critical. Chomsky even posited that children are born with an innate language acquisition device (LAD) that disappeared with age. That whole theory has now disappeared. However, it is true that the young child has tons of synapses available for learning purposes and that many disappear in childhood if not used. What must be remembered, though, is that those synapses that remain are more than enough to learn all of the languages of the world and then some. Children have fewer skills available to them for language learning than to older learners. Young learners’ analytical skills are still developing, so they cannot rely heavy on these skills as older learners do. So, children are not more skilled at language learning, and they do not learn more easily. What they often do do, though, is put a lot more time and effort into the language learning process than older learners are willing to do.

35 Fake Fact 3: The more time learners spend in a second language environment, the quicker they learn.

For many of us, our first thought is that this is surely true.

However, research has shown that students in Englishonly programs did not progress in proficiency faster than students in bilingual instruction classes. While time spent in a second language environment is a factor, the quality of that time is even more important. Is the methodology of the classroom instruction efficient? Is the learner interacting in English outside of class? As an aside, I remember one student telling me that he had gone to Canada for six months to learn English. After a couple of weeks at a language school, he decided that he would quit his classes and learn “real” English instead by talking with native English speakers every evening – in a bar. His conclusion was that his six months were “wasted.” (And my guess is that many nights he was, too!)

It must be said, though, that time well spent in a country or community where the inhabitants speak the language that the learner is learning can be highly beneficial. A combination of classroom instruction with after-class practice that includes interaction with native speakers can be immensely rewarding.

Fake Fact 4: If children can speak the language, they have acquired that language.

We often say that the goal of learning a language is learning to speak it. However, we need to be careful of what we mean by being able to speak a language well. Speakers usually speak only what they know well – what they have not learned is left unsaid. Also, the hearer most often focuses on the message, not the grammar it is conveyed in, giving a false impression of accuracy. It can be surprising how much poorer a learner’s written English appears to be than his or her spoken English. A learner’s apparent skill at spoken English does not reveal what may be a large amount of English grammar, vocabulary, and expressions yet to be learned to function well in an L2 setting.

Fake Fact 5: All children learn a second language in the same way.

While a considerable number of teachers may say that this statement is false, ironically, their one-size-fits-all classroom instruction might suggest the opposite. Even in an EFL environment like Korea, where all the students in a class may have the same L1, there can be differences in their manner of learning. Social class may foster different learning methods. Children in a lower social class with less-educated families may be more used to learning by observation, while children in more-educated families may be more used to learning through explanation. Children of culturally diverse families are entering Korean classrooms in larger numbers and may bring with them additional ways of learning. As teachers, it is important for our classes to contain a good mix of oral, aural, and tactile instruction.

And there you have it: five points in the ongoing story of children learning English.

THE AUTHOR

David E. Shaffer is vice-president of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday).

For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions; at present he is national president.

Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching, scholarship, and leadership. He is chairman of the board at the GIC and also editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING

• Presentation 1: Multimodal Writing: A Key for Creative Learning and Teaching

By Teri An Joy G. Magpale (Wonkwang University) • Presentation 2: Novel Pair Information Gap Activities for Mixed-Level Classes

By Daniel Corks (Woosong University) • SwapShop – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have.

July 2018

For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Date: July 14 (Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education

EDUCATION EDUCATION OPINION

36 Opinion

School opening ceremony.

Church-Home School in Usan-dong Written by Robert Grotjohn Photographed by Robert Grotjohn and courtesy of Sungsan Church Home School

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

T

hree years ago, Lee Song-yong and Jeong Haiyoung, missionaries returning to South Korea after serving in Mongolia and Indonesia, were determined to educate their five children in a Christian, family-oriented way. First, they homeschooled their children, then they helped begin a church-home school.

Missionary Lee said that starting the school was like a miracle. He and his family were newcomers in Gwangju, but they had a dream to find a church sponsor. Prayer led them to Sungsan Church near Malbau Market, and they proposed a church-home school to Pastor Suh Dae-in.

Pastor Suh said, “Alright, let’s try it,” even though he barely knew Missionary Lee. The school has been accepting students (“schoolers”) and their families for the last two and a half years. Now, schoolers range from first grade to high school age.

There are currently two international families in the group: one from South Africa, and one with a mother

from Vietnam. Sungsan Church Home School is eager to welcome more international as well as Korean participants who may be searching for an affordable Christian alternative to public education. Because the parents do the teaching, the tuition is much lower than at other Christian schools. With the books, the cost is about 150,000 to 200,000 won per child per month.

The school has no denominational requirement, and is open to anyone who agrees to the Christian educational principles and curriculum. The group emphasizes that a Biblical perspective on education is not just about curriculum but also about who is going to teach. They follow the advice of Deuteronomy, Chapter 6, which instructs parents to teach their children. Thus, at least one parent must be a full-time participant in the school.

Participating full-time means that the parents and their children meet for schooling at the church from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

37

The school’s textbooks.

Tuesdays and Thursdays are pure homeschooling days.

Most of the parents had no experience with homeschooling when they joined the project, but they are learning. They hope that someday experts in curriculum development might help develop a well-designed Korean-language homeschooling curriculum and textbooks.

Students work at their own pace and can emphasize their own interests. With the help of their parents and other teachers, the schoolers set up goals for themselves every morning. They meet in a basement classroom, and each schooler has his or her own “office” – an individual desk where work is done. Several schoolers worked at their offices when I visited, while others sat at small tables for individual help from one of the parent-teachers. There were three parent-teachers for nine children. That is a pretty good teacher-student ratio.

While this educational concept might seem novel in South Korea, Missionary Lee insists that home-based

July 2018

Christian education is important to the group as a means of spiritual and character development. Missionary Lee emphasized the three principles of Spirit, Soul, and Body.

The church-home school works to build the individual in Christian community. A motto on the church-home school website is “We grow when we help others grow.”

The older schoolers act as big brothers and sisters to the younger schoolers and to the even younger children from the church-home pre-school and kindergarten.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Much of the curriculum is based on a set of homeschooling textbooks from the U.S. that are written in English. The schoolers study Korean language, culture, and history as well. The whole-family involvement means that parents are responsible for much of their own child’s education and also that they are free to bring in their own ideas and methods. One mother, for instance, brings her own Korean-language textbooks.

The daily schedule.

38 education is actually the most traditional method. At one time, young people were taught at home, and the churchhome school concept holds that a return to such intimacy is good for students’ development.

I spoke with Mark Vermeulen, the participating parent of the South African family. He and his wife, Shannon, have had their three children in the church-home school for two years. Mark thinks the community emphasis is important. The children can work at their own pace, and there is no division between the international and the Korean students as there can be in public schools.

The responsibility for others that is part of the Christian focus prepares students to be better members of society in the future, he believes. They will be able to help create a kinder and more loving world.

The church-home school movement is spreading, in part through a book by Missionary Lee, Your Spiritual Children Now (지금 키워라, 영적인 아이). The local group has helped start similar projects in Iksan, Daejeon, and Ulsan. On the day I visited, a group from Pyeongtaek was coming to observe because they are interested in starting their own church-home school. This movement offers a healthy alternative to public school education for those committed to Christian upbringing.

THE AUTHOR Robert Grotjohn teaches American literature and popular culture in the Department of English Language and Literature at Chonnam National University and is a former editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.

NEED MORE INFORMATION? The organization has a Facebook page (look for “처치홈스쿨 사역원 Church-Home School Ministries”) and a website at churchhomeschool.org. The Facebook page gives contact information. Most of the web pages are in Korean, but the links to individual pages have English as well as Korean headings, and one can always get the gist of the message by using an e-translator. You can find the MondayWednesday-Friday schedule in both Korean and English through the “Sungsan Church-Home School” link from the drop-down menu for “Introduction.” Mark and Shannon Vermeulen, the international parents from South Africa, offer their testimonial in English on the “About Us” page.

Missionary Lee speaks excellent English himself, so he can talk to anyone who is interested in the school but has limited Korean skills. He also has a slide presentation in English that he can share. His contact information is available on the “About Us” page.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Gwangju Guide www.gwangjuguide.com For Information on Living in Gwangju Korean

I

English

I

Chinese

Korean Culture

39

Beat the Heat with Hwachae Written by Cho Namhee

It is said that there are 30 different recipes for hwachae.

Regardless of the other ingredients you may add to the drink, the honeyed water with slices of seasonal fruit are the key. If you get tired of drinks made with artificial coloring and artificial flavoring, do it yourself. Make your own heat antidote for the upcoming sweltering days of summer.

THE AUTHOR Cho Namhee, an over-zealous sports fan, is a free spirit who calls Gwangju “home”. He studies communications at Chonnam National University and works for the 18th FINA World Championships, Gwangju 2019.

July 2018

Not only are the petals and fruits placed in honeyed water, they are often garnished on top as well. These garnishes are coated with dried starch and blanched, then rinsed in cold water. The decoration enhances the feeling of the

In summer, watermelon makes for the best hwachae. In the past, watermelons were dunked into wells to make them cool. Then, they were juiced and mixed with honey and water. Often the red watermelon is scooped out of its shell, and then placed back in to float with honey water and ice. Peaches, citrons, and strawberries were also used for fruit punches. However, among the fruits, omija (magnolia berry) was known for having five flavors (sweetness, sourness, bitterness, saltiness, and spiciness) all rolled into one and was often served as the base ingredient of traditional Korean punches. These berries are fully ripe in June and July and their sweet-and-sour taste intensifies the flavors of the fruits that are mixed in or put on top as garnish. Ultimately the intense sweetness and sourness make it just right to quench your thirst.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Though the traditional fruit punches, often served as desserts, are easy to make and come in quite a large variety, they are not commonly served in cafés and restaurants anymore unless they are served as items on Korean table d’hôte menus. Sweet rice drink (sikhye) or cinnamon punch (sujeonggwa) may be considered more typical traditional drinks. But to be specific, they were drinks served to guests during the first month of the lunar calendar and on Korean Thanksgiving Day (Chuseok). In other words, they were not served primarily to quench people’s thirst. Hwachae, on the other hand, were made as spring and summer delicacies so that people could appreciate the art of using different seasonal ingredients depending on the time of year.

season and also prevents drinkers from having an upset stomach.

ARTS & DRINKS FOOD CULTURE

T

he season of blazing sun and scorching heat is just around the corner. As the summers seem to be getting more intense every year, the importance of staying hydrated cannot be overemphasized. There is a myriad of cold beverages available to quench your thirst; however, modern drinks are far less health-friendly than Korea’s traditional thirst-quenchers. Hwachae, or traditional Korean punches made with fruit or edible flower petals, were a common type of cocktail consumed during spring and summertime in the past. Given the popularity of traditional drinks served hot in Korea, it is surprising to learn that there are so many traditional cold beverages.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

FOOD FOOD & DRINKS & DRINKS

40 Where to Eat

41

Brunch with Bingo Written and photographed by Sarah Pittman

B

ingo’s Table is a quiet cafe situated near Gwangju City Hall in the business district of Seo-gu. Bingo’s Table opened in March of 2017 and serves a variety of hot and cold sandwiches, salads, and fresh blended seasonal juices. The interior is a mix of brick and wood, which gives it a nice, homey feeling. It has outside patio seating as well as a couple of booths and tables on the inside. There are multiple picture menus posted around the cash register, which can feel a little overwhelming, but they are extremely useful if you struggle with speaking Korean in social situations like I do.

It was a beautiful sunny day when I went there, so I decided to pick from their cold sandwiches. I had a sandwich with fig and prosciutto. It came on a wonderfully light French baguette with a side salad and a small cup of pickles and pickled onions. The baguette was buttered before having multiple strips of prosciutto placed inside. Then, jammy figs and chunks of brie were alternately placed across it. Lastly, some arugula was layered on top. I loved the combination of the sweet figs with the fattiness of the prosciutto and the bitterness of the arugula. The fig and prosciutto sandwich is definitely one of the smaller sandwiches on offer, and I did wish that it was a bit bigger considering the 8,500 won price tag, but I still felt satisfied after eating it.

BINGO’S TABLE 빙고스테이블

Address: 27, Sicheong-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju 광주 서구 시청로 27

Telephone: 062-375-0456 Opening Hours: 9 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Website: https://cafebingostable.modoo.at/ THE AUTHOR

Sarah Pittman is a 26-year-old English hagwon teacher and a southern California native. She loves photography, swing dancing, the color teal, and her dog Cosmo. When she goes back to America, she hopes to either continue teaching or work in an office that allows dogs.

July 2018

We also decided to try two of their seasonal fruit juices.

They have mango, pineapple, kiwi, and walnut-banana available currently. We tried the pineapple and the mango.

If you ever find yourself near City Hall in Seo-gu, Bingo’s Table is a great little restaurant to enjoy your afternoon in, either by yourself or with friends.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

My companion got the ham and cheese sandwich, which also came with a side salad and a small cup of sweet pickles and pickled onions for 7,500 won. The ham and cheese sandwich was much larger in size, with a slice of deli ham that was close to a centimeter thick. It was well balanced between the ham, cheese, crisp lettuce, and tasty tomatoes, with a fantastic light Thousand Island dressing that tied it together beautifully. If, however, you are looking for a sandwich to eat delicately, you may wish to pick something else on the menu. With a healthy helping of all fillings, this sandwich had a tendency to come apart somewhat.

Personally, I preferred the pineapple over the mango, but they were both icy, refreshing, and delicious. Bingo’s Table does not add sugar to its blended fruit juices, which I truly appreciated. The natural fruit juices are left to shine on their own.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018 FOOD & DRINKS

42 42 Korean Food

43

Kimchi Jjigae Written by Joe Wabe

W

arm, spicy, meaty, and smoky – this is the best way I can describe this signature Korean dish.

For many years it has been one of my favorites for weather that is cold, cool, warm, and hot. Korea is a very seasonal food place, as many dishes go well with the time of year; however, when I think of kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), I strongly believe this is a dish to enjoy all year round.

It is assumed that this spicy stew was born sometime during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) when red chili peppers were first introduced to Korea. This dish has two main variations, the tuna version and the one most commonly eaten in restaurants: the pork version.

My favorite way to enjoy it is with simple steamed white rice, steamed eggs, and kim (dried laver). It is a lifesaver after a night out, and a delicious dish to have for lunch.

The first time I made this soup, I made it my own way by figuring out the taste, and it was not bad. It passed the test with friends and family. Through the years, I have found that most people have their own recipe – some simpler, some more complex – but at the end of the day, what they all have in common is the base: kimchi and pork (or tuna).

Add these to a pot and turn on to medium heat, then add the sesame oil and sauté the pork for about four minutes.

Next, add the kimchi and onions, still at medium temperature, for about seven minutes. Do not let it burn or get too dry, since the purpose is to get these flavors together in a smoky way. The next step is to add water and put on a lid, allowing the stew to get to a boiling point. Next, add the red pepper paste and powder along with the anchovy stock, and let it all boil for another six minutes. This combination will give the stew its base taste. If you feel the taste is not strong enough, feel free to add a bit of salt.

Now it is time to soften the taste and give it the final stroke. Add the tofu, green onions, and sugar, and lower the heat to a minimum, with the lid on, for about five more minutes, and then turn it off. Let it sit for another five minutes before serving to allow the heat to settle and all flavors to consolidate.

This recipe is a winner! If you choose tuna instead of pork, follow the same directions, but instead of adding the tuna at the beginning, you will want to add it after adding the water and bringing it to a boil. Have fun!

THE AUTHOR

Joe Wabe is an established photographer and Gwangju local business entrepreneur. He has been contributing to the GIC and the Gwangju News for more than eight years.

July 2018

INGREDIENTS (SERVES 2-4 PEOPLE) • kimchi cut into pieces • ½ pound (225 grams) of pork belly or shoulder • 1 block of tofu cubed into pieces • 1 green onion • 1 medium onion, sliced • 1 teaspoon of sugar • 2 teaspoons of Korean hot pepper flakes • 1 or 2 tablespoons of Korean red pepper paste (depending on desired spiciness) • 1 teaspoon of sesame oil • 4 tablespoons of anchovy stock

PREPARATION First, put the pork and mirin together in a container, and let them rest for ten minutes. The rice wine will get rid of the meat smell and will prepare the pork for the dance.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

So here is my recipe, the one I have molded and perfected over more than a decade. This is just a basic map, so you can make changes that suit your palate. The best way to get a good recipe is to do it your way.

• ½ cup of mirin (a Japanese rice wine) • 4 cups (1 liter) of water

44 Expat Living

Getting a Korean Driver’s License

ARTS & CULTURE COMMUNITY

Written by Karina Prananto

D

pass if you get at least 60 points out of 100, and you will receive the results on the same day. Once you have passed, you can proceed to the next step.

First, you must register at a driving academy (운전학원).

There are tons of driving academies in Gwangju to choose from, and you can always read the online reviews or have one recommended to you by a friend. After registering, you will need to schedule your lessons and exams. In Korea, it is possible to have everything done in as little as one week! You will also need to submit the results of your health check before taking lessons at the driving academy.

Health checks can be done at most hospitals.

In this exam, you begin with 100 points. Points are deducted if you fail to do what the computer instructs you to do. Eighty points are required to pass the exam.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

eciding to get a driver’s license in Korea is probably one of the best decisions I have ever made. Not only does it give me more chances to travel around the country, it also boosts my confidence and allows me to make quick decisions. Here I will share with you my experience of getting a Korean driver’s license so that maybe you can also enjoy these driving pleasures. Please note that this information is based on my experience in getting a regular, class-2 license. Some procedures may vary depending on the type of license you are applying for.

In-Class Lesson and Written Exam After registering, you will take a lesson on Korean road and traffic regulations at the academy for about three hours. Later on, (usually on the same day) you will be taken to the Road Transport Authority office in Bukgu, where you will take the written exam. The exam is computerized and can be done in several languages. You

Practice Exam 1 (Inside the Academy) Next, you will practice how to operate a car provided by the academy. Almost all Korean driving academies have their own practice courses. There will be a car for each student and a teacher who will teach the very basics on how to operate the car. This will take about four hours. Once done, you will have a test on the subject matter. For this, you will be by yourself in the car. A voice from the computer will tell you what to do. Sorry, Korean is the only language option.

Instructions come in the following four parts: • How to turn on the engine • How to change gears and use parking brake • How to operate the headlights and turn signals • How to react in an emergency by applying the brakes and using emergency lights You pass if you can finish the entire process in five minutes. Once done, you will be informed whether you may move on to the next lesson or whether you must

Gwangju Writes

45

retake the test. You can take this exam even if you have failed the written test, but you still need to pass both in order to go to the next level.

Practice Exam 2 (Road Test) Once you have learned how to operate your car, you will need to complete six hours of driving practice on the road.

Your teacher will take you through certain routes that later may be the route you will take for your road exam.

The route is usually about five kilometers away from the academy. After the practice run ends, you will schedule your road exam. You will need to get a minimum of 70 points on the road exam to pass the test and receive a license.

A car that has been specially assigned for the exam will be used. Usually you will need to take the test with another test-taker. One of you will take the test first, and after switching places, the other will take the test driving back to the starting point. An examiner with a tablet computer will accompany you, and before the test begins, he/she will explain once more how the exam will proceed.

The course (which you will have previously practiced on) will be selected at random. The test will begin once you start the car engine (take note that it is possible that you may immediately be disqualified if you fail to start the engine on three tries or if you fail to fasten your seatbelt).

There will only be voice instructions from this point on, so you must rely on either your memory or your ability to listen to the instructions in Korean (instructions are not available in any other language)!

THE AUTHOR

Sundays breathe loneliness and breathe out emptiness.

They are a sentiment, but a pervasive one.

They hug the last frontier of defined time, fencing Our uncertain selves in a context in motion.

Warm drinks, old films, falling commas, and rising smoke, Smell of gochu and banchan, the rumble of sports, Scattered last kisses, fond memories, future dread, And unfinished work all squat within our Sundays.

Sunday is perception, but more, a returning Realization that you are more incapable, Older and cautious, less reckless and more fearful. . . . That’s when you feel its meaning. Suddenly.

And as Sunday’s peculiarity molds and then Sinks into your flesh, there are hardly mysteries On Sundays that don’t seep a lovely nostalgia To the rest of the week eyed through dusty blinds and Curtains. Coffee is my five minutes of Sunday.

THE AUTHOR

David Joël La Boon is a poet and artist. His formal artistic training came from tutelage under his grandfather, Forest Steinlage, who specialized in oil paintings of the riverboat culture and American industrialization, and is showcased in the Howard Steamboat Museum. He was a showcase artist during Seattle Art Week in 2015. His forays into poetry are an attempt at redefinition, which had begun while attending L’Institut d’Études Sciences Politiques de Paris. He is a founding member of La Société de Pensée, a literary and artistic society with chapters in Seattle and Washington, DC, and currently sits on the editorial board of the Seoul National University Journal of International Affairs. Gwangju is his home away from home.

July 2018

Karina is from Indonesia and has been involved with the Gwangju News for eleven years.

Driving has been her secret passion since she was 17 but was only satisfied by playing racing games on PlayStation. She first learned to drive in Korea, and has driven over 32,000 kilometers since getting her license in 2016.

Written by David Joël La Boon

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The exam ends when you return to the academy and take the parking test. Points will be deducted if you make mistakes. Once done, you will be shown your test result and your examiner will announce whether you have passed or failed. The examiner will not tell you which part(s) you failed, which is the trickiest part; you will only know how many points you scored. If you do not pass, sorry. But do not fret, you will be able to reapply for the road exam again as long as your one-year practice license remains valid. If you pass, congratulations! The academy will then ask whether you want to pick up your newly acquired license at the academy or have it sent to your home. So, are you ready? It is time to hit the road!

Five Minutes of Sunday

46 Photo Essay

Exploring Photography

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

ARTS & CULTURE

Written and photographed by Paolo Mondragon

4747

P

hotographers have one of the easiest jobs in the world. They make tons of money and all they have to do is point a camera at beautiful people and press a stupid button. Photography isn’t art. If they could, photographers would be painters. Since they can’t paint, or draw, or sculpt, or because they don’t have any real artistic abilities, they just snap a photo and call that “art.”

My wife had this old DSLR camera that she’d take with her whenever we went to various events. We were at an outdoor event and she asked, “Could you take my picture?” I took the picture and that was that. Upon reviewing the photo, I remember chuckling to myself because the tree branches in the background made it look like my wife had antlers.

I guess that’s when it really started. I started to ask myself questions. What are all those buttons on the camera for anyway? Why does the lens have so many numbers on it? And don’t forget the most important question of all: How come my photo looks terrible when compared to the ones in magazines and on Instagram? I had to find answers. Little did I know that the search for answers would lead to more questions and a lot of trial and error with a camera. Although I’ve learned a lot, there’s so much more to discover.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

The questions I have are starting to change.

They’re less about camera gear and more about composition, style, and storytelling.

I’ve learned that each type of photography is unique but also connected by emotion. It’s the “awe” you feel from a landscape, the “love” from a wedding photo, and the feeling of “being there” from a candid street shot. Wait a minute, isn’t that what art does? In the words of Pablo Picasso, “In every photographer there was a painter, a true artist, awaiting expression.” I’d never call myself an artist, but if you keep this quote in mind the next time you take a photo, I’m sure you’ll take more care in making sure your dear wife’s antlers are more perfectly framed. Happy shooting!

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018 48

49

THE AUTHOR

Paolo Mondragon, a Canadian from Mississauga, currently works as an English teacher in Gwangju.

Since his University of Toronto days, he has dabbled in music as his main creative pursuit. Recently, he has been enamored by everything photography related. He enjoys taking portraits and street photography the most. Follow him on Instagram @p_soma for more pictures.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

ARTS & CULTURE

50

Photo of the Month

By Lorryn Smit

51

I

t’s easy to get lost in the hustle of daily life, especially living in the city. There’s always something to do ㅡ an email to reply to, photos to deliver ㅡ that can get in the way of creativity and the feeling of curiosity. In order to stay inspired and creative, I have to force myself to take a break. Just a day of no emails, no social media, no computer.

Nothing. On this particular “me-day,” I explored a place that’s been on my Korean bucket list for six years now: Naejangsa. The harmony, the lush colors of summer, and the fresh air did me a world of good! This photo will always bring me back to that day of joy and a little bit of peace.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

THE AUTHOR Lorryn Smit is a South African who has called Gwangju “home” for seven years now. She is a recently turned full-time photographer specializing in documentary-style wedding and portrait photography. She is also the editor-in-chief of a popular photography blog called Photographers in Korea and freelances for a variety of publications in Korea.

July 2018

ARTS && CULTURE CULTURE ARTS

52 Movie Review

Top Seven Marvel Movies Not Featuring an Avenger

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

Written by Natale Ryan

M

arvel Cinematic Universe (MCU) is one of the most successful movie franchises to date.

Though it may seem that Marvel Studios didn’t truly become successful until the release of Iron Man in 2008, Marvel movies have been in existence since the early 1980s. Since the recent release of Avengers: Infinity War, the world has had a new wave of superhero fever. Despite all the positive ratings from audiences and critics, we all have to admit that the constant wave of Avenger characters can be exhausting. To help with this, I’ve compiled a list of Marvel movies that don’t star an Avenger, yet may mention them.

1. Howard the Duck (1986) – Have you ever heard of this film? No? There’s probably a reason for that. Despite the reputation this film has, as a young child I loved this movie.

It’s strange, nonsensical, and directed by George Lucas. The films centers around a duck man named “Howard” who lives on a planet inhabited by duck people. Things go awry when he’s somehow blasted into our human world by accident. The romance in this film is odd, the suspense is interesting, and the music will stay in your head for days.

Give this film a try when you’re bored or just for a laugh.

2. Fantastic Four (2005) – I know that this movie comes with its stigmas, but in reality, Fantastic Four is a difficult comic to adapt to film. How easy can it be to make a movie about four different superheroes who get blasted by radiation? I think that the 2005 version is the best. It includes a lot of the corny, slapstick humor that’s featured in the comics and doesn’t skimp on the backstory. As a teenager, I loved this movie. I thought that Doctor Doom

53 was an awesome villain, but I admit that the movie hasn’t held up very well. Despite how disliked this movie may be to some, to me it’s a guilty pleasure and far surpasses the most recent version.

3. Blade (1998) – Though not your typical superhero, and especially not one who’s child-friendly, 1998’s Blade is indeed a movie based on a Marvel character. The movie is centered around a man who’s a human with vampire-like strength as a result of his mother being bitten while he was still in utero. He spends his life believing it’s his duty to protect humans from vampires. In the film, he’s portrayed by action film star Wesley Snipes. I first saw this film when I was young and thought it was frightening. Now that I’m older, it seems mediocre. The action is pretty decent, but since it lacks some of the current annoying Marvel traits, I’m putting it on my list.

4. The Punisher (2004) – This movie is pretty solid, but honestly not one of my favorites. It made the list because of its serious tone and honest portrayal of grief. Stunning performances by John Travolta and Thomas Jane are also a plus for this movie. This film tells the story of an FBI agent whose family is murdered by a mafia boss. As an act of revenge, the FBI agent hunts down the man who murdered his loved ones in gruesome ways. Though this has been reimagined as a new Netflix series, I place this film in high regard.

THE AUTHOR

Natale is an English teacher in Mokpo. She is from Memphis, Tennessee, in the United States. She attended college in Jonesboro, Arkansas, and majored in criminology and sociology. In her free time, she enjoys watching scary movies and writing short stories. Her favorite movies are To Kill a Mockingbird, E.T., and Memento. Her heroes are Snoopy and Audrey Hepburn.

Since 2000

(former Body&Soul Clinic)

The International Clinic in Gwangju Family Medicine, Health Screening, Men’s Health, Women’s Health, Minor Surgery, Travel Medicine, Vaccination, Complementary Medicine, Pre-employment Health Screening, Laboratory Test (Blood, Urine, Pap, STD), X-ray & Ultrasound, Prescription Refill, Nutrition (Intravenous Vitamins & Minerals), Detox (Chelation & Fasting), Anti Aging, Immune Booster, Weight Management.

For More Info: Phone: 062-525-0606 www.geomedclinic.com ** The best landmark for our clinic is “Buk-gu District Office” ** On the 1st Floor of our building, there is a “Paris Baguette”. Our clinic is located on the 5th Floor.

July 2018

6. X-Men (2000) – In my opinion, the superhero craze started with X-Men. As a child, I loved the cartoon. As a pre-teen, having the characters of Wolverine, Rogue, and Storm all come to life on the silver screen was a treat. This was, in my opinion, the movie that put future Marvel films on the map and opened the door for MCU. The movie centers around Rouge, a teenage runaway who has the unfortunate mutant power of taking the life of whoever she touches. At a bar, she stows away in Wolverine’s truck, and the rest is history. Though many X-Men movies have come and gone, this was the first, and the one that started it all.

So there you have it! This is my list of non-Avenger MCU movies. There are a few more in production that have yet to be released. For example, this year will see the release of The New Mutants, Venom, and Deadpool 2. Let’s hope they’re good!

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

5. Deadpool (2016) – Deadpool was supposed to be the most foul-mouthed, violent comic book antihero to be featured. Yet, when the film opened on Valentine’s Day as a joke, I found it to be mediocre compared to many other movies. Though the film’s antihero was portrayed exceptionally well by Ryan Reynolds and the humor was on point, I wasn’t very entertained by the movie. It wasn’t a bad movie by any means, but it was lacking a feature I can’t quite put my finger on. The movie centers around a man who’s experimented on in the hopes of finding a cure for his cancer. When he’s left with superhero powers, but a scarred appearance, he hunts down the man who ruined his life.

7. Logan (2017) – I absolutely loved Logan. This film is brutal, honest, and sad, and features a true departure of one the most beloved comic book characters of all time. The acting in this movie is amazing, and Hugh Jackman sends the character of Wolverine off in the best way possible, giving closure to the character. In this film, Wolverine meets a young mutant who seems to be cloned from his own DNA, which, by default, makes her his daughter. The bond the two develop is amazing. I’m looking forward to the release of The New Mutants this year!

54 Book Review

“With Courage, Strength, and Grace”

The Reason You Walk by Wab Kinew

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

ARTS & CULTURE

Written by Kristy Dolson

I

n North America, the month of July is marked by independence celebrations in Canada and the United States. But there is a dark underside to these celebrations lurking beneath the picnics and the plethora of national flags. I am referring to the historic oppression of North America’s First Nations and the ongoing struggle to right centuries of horrific wrongs in an increasingly globalized world. Last year, Canada celebrated its 150th year as a sovereign nation, and I was extremely fortunate to be home for it. But during a trip to Toronto, I saw fliers posted by an indigenous group protesting the celebratory attitude, claiming – rightly – that it was marking 150 years of oppression. I was saddened because I agreed, but vexed because the group had chosen to incite anger rather than provide ideas for change.

Before I begin with the review, a little history lesson is required: Canada’s greatest injustice towards the native population were the government-sponsored and churchadministered residential schools. Thousands of children across the country were forced to attend these boarding schools with the goal of separating indigenous children from their home cultures and assimilating them into the Euro-Canadian system. When parents refused to cooperate, their children were forcibly abducted by government agents. These children were beaten for speaking their native languages, indoctrinated into European values and beliefs, kept from returning to their families until they were adults, and were oftentimes the victims of sexual assault. The last residential school was closed in 1996, but the effects of residential schools continue to spread and influence relations between native

and non-native communities alike. As demonstrated by the fliers, there are some on both sides who argue that reconciliation is not possible in the aftermath of such cruelty.

Wab Kinew is not one of those people. Although his early life was marked by intolerance and violence, he has become a respected First Nations spokesperson who worked as a journalist for many years before pursuing a political career with the New Democratic Party of Canada. When Kinew found out that his father had received a terminal cancer diagnosis, despite a tumultuous upbringing, he spent 2012 reconnecting with this emotionally distant man in an effort to salvage their relationship before it was too late. The Reason You Walk is the memoir he wrote after that year of love, loss, and lessons.

This memoir is important because it explores the farreaching consequences of a man’s residential school experience for himself and his loved ones. Kinew wanted to add his voice to the ongoing conversation regarding truth and reconciliation in a nation that is still fractured by the mistakes of the past. And so this book attempts to educate and inform, with Kinew’s direct and honest writing style. He is not afraid to reveal the worst of himself and his own past mistakes, while being upfront about the work he needs to put in for a better future. His memoir has uncomfortable moments and that is good. We should all be uncomfortable with the consequences of this national legacy. That is how we grow and become better people.

If we gloss over the mistakes of the past or ignore them, then we fail to learn from them. These stories are vital

55 in a world that increasingly seeks to divide and enrage.

Institutionalized racism and imperialism are quite alive and well, and without these stories we can never hope to overthrow these oppressive systems.

A legacy is something that we hand down from one generation to the next. The previous generations of European settlers in North America have handed down a legacy burdened by intolerance, cruelty, and racism.

But it is not impossible to overcome this legacy and to create a new legacy of reconciliation, truth, and trust. We must do this, because our legacy is no longer a matter for individual countries. In this era of globalization, it is critical that societies around the world address these issues so that nations can stand strong and united. This memoir is a triumph of the human spirit, the fight for one’s identity, and the struggle to forgive in order to forge a stronger connection for the future generations of all communities. The Reason You Walk demonstrates that if a father and son can heal and renew a broken bond, then perhaps reconciliation on a national scale is within our reach. We do not always have to be at war with ourselves; with hard work and honesty, I have faith that one day we will arrive at our common destiny as humans with hands held firmly as we walk that road together.

THE AUTHOR

(Photo by Lisa Crone)

Kristy Dolson lived in South Korea for five years before taking a year off to travel, read, and spend time with her family in Canada and Australia. She holds a Bachelor of Education and has just moved to Yeosu where she splits her time between teaching at the new Jeollanamdo International Education Institute and reading as much as she can.

July 2018

Gwangju City

120 Dong-gu District Office 062-608-2114 Seo-gu District Office 062-365-4114 Nam-gu District Office 062-651-9020 Buk-gu District Office 062-510-1500 Gwangsan-gu District Office 062-960-8114 Weather Forecast 131 Criminal Report (Police) 112 Fire Rescue 119 Waterworks Failure Report 121 Power Failure Report 123 Gas Leak Accident Report 062-383-0019 Environmental Report 128

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Useful Numbers

56

Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community?

Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce club activities and special events.

Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV).

UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide families and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers. Also, you can contact Kim Young-im at 062-434-9887 or email konacenter@gmail.com.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2018

VOLUNTEER TEACHERS NEEDED for the Gwangju UCC (Universal Cultural Center). English teachers in the Gwangju area for 2018 with any level of experience are welcome to participate. UCC has a Facebook profile if you would like to see what kind of other services are available.

To participate in the international cultural exchange programs, you may email peter.j.gallo@gmail.com, or phone or text 010-9490-4258.

GWANGJU FILIPINO ENGLISH TEACHERS (GFET) Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10 a.m. – 12 noon, GIC, Room 3 (2F) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular lectures and accent training to help fellow English teachers to become better educators.

GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook.

GIC ZUMBA WITH THANDO GIC Hall, 1st Floor 7 – 8 p.m., Thursdays Facebook: GIC Zumba with Thando

It is a fun-filled cardio class that fits all levels, no experience needed. Dress comfortably and be ready to sweat. Also, bring along water and a towel.

CHINESE-KOREAN LANGUAGE EXCHANGE GIC Lounge, 1st Floor, 6:30–8:30 p.m., Wednesday Application: https://goo.gl/WjBZQQ The language exchange is casual, and you can turn up when you like. Welcome to bring and invite friends.

Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes.

We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

2018 7

_

.indd 3

Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

2018-06-27

9:29:07

2018 7

_

.indd 4

2018-06-27

9:29:08