[EN] Gwangju News November 2018 #201

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I November 2018 #201 I Upholding Indigenous Rights and Combatting Racism: Exclusive Interview with JosĂŠ Francisco Cali Tzay

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[의료광고심의필 제160113-중-81062호]

Just like an orchestra performing happiness.

Real medical treatment is like a concert of happiness, performed by patients and medical staff working in harmony.

Each and every one of us will be a member of a happy concert.

365, Pilmun-daero, Dong-gu, Gwangju Metropolitan City Homepage http://hosp.chosun.ac.kr Information 062-220-3114 Appointments 062-220-3006, 3009 Health Promotion Center 062-220-3030 Emergency Center 062-220-3119 International Health Care Center 062-220-3770

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From the Editor

W

November 2018, Issue No. 201

Published: November 1, 2018 Cover Photo José Francisco Cali Tzay

by World Human Rights Cities Forum Secretariat

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Chief Proofreader Layout Editor Photo Editor Proofreaders Photography Team Online Editorial Team Researchers

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Wilson Melbostad Isaiah Winters Karina Prananto Lorryn Smit Di Foster, David Foster, Elisabeth Loeck Gilda Wilson, Timothy Berg, Joey Nunez Stephen Redeker, Ynell Lumantao Sarah Pittman, J.T. White Karina Prananto, Sen Nguyen Shahed Kayes Baek Ji-yeon, Kim Woo-yeon

The Gwangju News is the first public English monthly magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

The Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center, Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com Email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Logos Color 로고스칼라 (+82)-62-672-2566 gwangjunews

GwangjuNewsGIC

For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the editor at: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr.

For advertising and subscription inquiries, please contact karina@gic.or.kr or 062-226-2733.

Special thanks to Gwangju City and all of our sponsors.

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This month, we take you to Gwangju’s tragic Cloud Bridge and to spooky Nightmare Lab. We introduce you to musical paragliding in Gokseong and to good eating at restaurant Bistro Karu. Want to know how to make stir-fried rice cakes? Look inside. Want to know more about nostalgic cart bars and their menus? Read inside.

This issue offers information on therapy for trauma suffers and calls for migrants to speak out when criminally wronged. One writer suggests why U.S. citizens in Korea should vote in the upcoming U.S. elections.

As always, you will find a new Korean lesson and a piece on how to make language learning easier. Our book review is The Colour of Milk, and lyrical writing beats in Gwangju Writes. You won’t want to miss our photo essay of our “Gwangju News 200” celebration and our beautiful photo of the month. Enjoy.

David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News

November 2018

GwangjuNews

We have now started on that hundred-issue journey with this November 2018 issue: #201. In connection with the recently concluded World Human Rights Cities Forum, our cover feature is our interview with WHRCF speaker José Francisco Cali Tzay, a promoter of indigenous rights. Our second feature is a report on the highlights of the WHRCF held in mid-October here in Gwangju. And our third feature in on the creator of our artistic “Gwangju News 200” cover and our May 2018 cover, both of which have been highly praised: artist Lisa Casaus.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Copyright by the Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

e have just completed in October the publication of our 200th issue of the Gwangju News.

We at the Gwangju News and the entire Gwangju International Center wish to thank our readership and the Gwangju area community for their participation in our “Gwangju News 200” events and for all the kind words of congratulations and encouragement. This means a lot to a volunteer group like ours. We now embark on the production of our third set of a hundred issues of the Gwangju News, recognizing that it will require much time, much effort, and much dedication to report on future events, many of which are not yet planned or imagined. A hefty task but one that the Gwangju News is devoted to take on.

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CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2018 #201 GWANGJU NEWS 03. Gwangju City News 05. November 2018 Happenings 07. Gwangju Theater Schedule 56. Community Board

COMMUNITY 35. A Call to Undocumented Migrants: We Urge You to Speak Out About Criminal Damage 36. Expat Living: Rehabilitation Therapies for Trauma Sufferers

FEATURE 08. Upholding Indigenous Rights and Combatting Racism in Guatemala and the Rest of the World: Exclusive Interview with José Francisco Cali Tzay 12. Gwangju Continues to Lead the Way for Human Rights and Peace in Asia 16. Baby Onion Says Hello

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 38. Violinagliding in Gokseong

TRAVEL 20. Lost in Gwangju: The Tragic Beauty of Cloud Bridge 24. Around Korea: A Eulogy For the Nightmare Lab

ARTS & CULTURE 40. Gwangju Writes: Gwangju Lyric 42. The Morning Calm of Ink Wash 46. Photo Essay: Gwangju News 200th Issue Celebration 50. Photo of the Month 52. Embrace the Autumn Mood at Cart Bars 53. Book Review: “i tell the truth”–The Colour of Milk

by Nell Leyshon

FOOD & DRINKS 28. Where to Eat: Bistro Karu 30. Tteokbokki: Spicy Stir-Fried Rice Cakes

OPINION 54. Why U.S. Citizens in Korea Should Vote in the Midterm Elections

EDUCATION 32. Korea TESOL: Making Language Learning Easier 34. Everyday Korean: Episode 11 – Hanja-seongeo

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Gwangju City News Reprinted with permission from Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall Photographs courtesy of Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall

GWANGJU NEWS

Mayor Lee (third from left) boarded the “Story of Gwangju’s 100 Years” city tour bus on September 29.

Gwangju Operates “Story of Gwangju’s 100 Years” City Tour Bus

This city tour bus is the first in the nation to combine on-thespot theater performances and sightseeing. The program aims to provide an in-depth look into Gwangju’s modern history by showcasing stage acts at each destination on the tour.

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Gwangju Mayor Lee Yong-seop boarded the city tour bus on September 29 and participated in a field experience with a group of tourists. The mayor emphasized that Gwangju’s new initiative is now beginning and will soon become a representative tourism feature of Gwangju.

The city tour bus runs three times a week: a night tour every Friday, one Saturday morning tour, and one Saturday afternoon tour. Beginning at Gwangju’s Songjeong Station, the tour route goes to Gwangcheon Terminal, then to Yangrim-dong, followed by the May 18 Democracy Square and the Asia Culture Center, and then back to Gwangcheon Terminal and Songjeong Station.

The cost is 10,000 won per person. For applications and for more information, please check the city tour bus website at http://www.gjcitytour.kr/.

November 2018

The city tour bus is to be operated under the theme “Story of Gwangju’s 100 Years,” and will present past stories of Yangnim-dong in 1930 as Gwangju’s earliest Christian base of the independence movement. The tour will then showcase Gwangju’s more recent pro-democracy history from 1980 at the May 18 (5.18) Democratic Square and the old Jeollanam-do Provincial Hall. In addition, hopes for the future, including Gwangju becoming a culture center of Asia by 2030, will be on display with the Asia Culture Center as

a backdrop, where a narrative performance will take place. www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Gwangju’s “Story of Gwangju’s 100 Years” city tour bus, which tells stories of the recent history of Gwangju and its people, is now in full operation.

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One Trillion-Won Plan for the “Revitalization of Gwangju Station”

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

The Creativity, Culture, and Industry Start-up Valley Project at Gwangju Station, which represents a 1.15 trillion-won investment, will soon be in full swing.

Gwangju City reported on September 2 that the Ministry of Land, Transport, and Maritime Affairs held the 13th meeting of the Urban Regeneration Special Committee, which was opened by Prime Minister Lee Nak-yeon at the Seoul Government Complex on August 28. At that time, the 500,000 square meter Gwangju Station area was selected as a “2018 New Deal Economy-Based Project” This economy-based project is a large-scale urban renewal project in which the national government will invest 25 billion won over six years. For this, Gwangju City submitted to the Ministry of Land, Transport, and Maritime Affairs an application to participate in the Urban Regeneration New Deal Project, which classified the Gwangju Station area proposal as suitable for a creativity-culture-industry economy-based project.

In particular, the city will establish a creativity-cultureindustry economic base linking the Gwangju Station area, whose traffic has fallen due to the curtailment of KTX services and the moving of public facilities, and will pursue a combined development project using idle sites. As the

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main feature of the project, “Station G,” a business center for the cultural-content industry, will be a space used for exhibiting cultural content and for accelerating education.

The City Rehabilitation Business Bank provides consulting services for financial and entrepreneurial support, such as the young entrepreneurial fund, a link to a startup fund support system (TIPS), and information on business startup support.

Plans are to utilize the Gwangju Station plaza as an “Asia Culture Area” for visitors to experience Asian cultures, exhibitions, and “pop-up” stores catering to youth.

Gwangju City expects the project to directly generate 2.3 trillion won and an additional 738 billion won indirectly once this project is completed.

In addition, the city expects the project to include 7,453 people in construction and 1,157 people in operation and management, thus creating a total of 8,610 jobs during the construction phase of the project. The annual revenue from cultural content is expected to increase by 12.5 billion won and jobs are expected to increase by 160 long-term.

Gwangju City plans to hold a public hearing with local residents near Gwangju Station and conclude an MOU with KORAIL after consulting public opinion.

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November 2018 Gwangju Happenings Compiled by Baek Ji-yeon

Gwangju Biennale 2018 “Imagined Borders” 광주비엔날레 2018 “상상된 경계들” Over a three-month period, visitors to the Biennale will be able to see Gwangju in a new light as an international and pro-democracy city. One of this year’s exhibitions in particular, Imagined Borders, will provide English-speaking docents and programs for foreigners, helping them to better understand the art on display.

Location:

Admission: Telephone: Website:

• September 7 – November 11 (open daily); visiting

hours 09:00–18:00 at the Gwangju Biennale Exhibition Hall (광주비엔날레 전시관) • September 7 – November 11 (closed on Mondays); visiting hours Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00, Wed/Sat 10:00– 19:00 at the Asia Culture Center 1. Gwangju Biennale, 111 Biennale-ro, Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju / 광주 북구 비엔날레로 111 (용봉동) 2. Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Gwangsan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju / 광주 동구 광산동 문화전당로 38 1,000–14,000 won (prices vary by age, time of purchase, and number of tickets) 062-608-4114 (Gwangju Biennale); 1899-5566 (Asia Culture Center) https://www.gwangjubiennale.org/gb/index.do

2018 ACC 아시아컬처마켓 This event is a cultural market open to everyone, where people can buy, sell, and enjoy cultural content containing people’s unique ideas about Asian culture.

Dates: Location:

September 7 – November 10 (open 17:00–21:00 / open every Friday and Saturday, closed in case of rain) 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju, (Asia Culture Center) Cloud Bridge, Sky Park

Admission: Telephone: Website:

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Free 1899-5566 https://www.acc.go.kr/board/schedule/event/2257

November 2018

광주 동구 문화전당로38 (아시아문화전당) 구름다리, 하늘마당, 옥상정원 일대

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The 2018 ACC Asia Cultural Market

GWANGJU NEWS

Dates:

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The 2018 Gwangju Pet Show 제3회 광주펫쇼 This pet exhibition is the only one of its kind in the Honam area. With a national pet population nearing ten million, this show, like so many others around the country, caters to the changing times. Visitors can expect to find all kinds of animal-friendly products and events.

Dates: Location:

November 9–11 30 Sangmunuri-ro (Chipyeong-dong), Seo-gu, Gwangju (Kim Dae-jung Convention Center) 광주 서구 상무누리로30(치평동)(김대중컨벤션센터)

Admission: Telephone: Website:

5,000 won (those 14 and above); 3,000 won (pre-reservation or those under 13); free (kindergarten or those with special needs) 062-111-2000 http://www.g-pet.co.kr/

Art Gwangju 2018 아트광주 2018 Art galleries in Gwangju come together in this art exhibition showcasing their best artworks. Check out project exhibition “Korea–Japan–China Young Artists Exhibition” and enjoy art market and experience program in this event.

Dates: Location:

November 15–18 (open 10:00–20:00) 30 Sangmunuri-ro (Chipyeong-dong), Seo-gu, Gwangju, (Kim Dae-jung Convention Center, Hall 2) 광주 서구 상무누리로30(치평동) (김대중컨벤션센터) 다목적홀 2

um.

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November 2018

Admission: Telephone: Website:

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10,000 won 062-223-1532~4 artgwangju.org

Jeolla-do Province and Its People Over the Past 1000 Years [Art Exhibition] 全羅千年-전라도 천년을 지켜온 사람들 “Jeolla-do” is the oldest recorded name of this southwestern Korea administrative district, and it can be found in the History of Goryeo, written in the 9th year of King Hyeonjong (1018). However, long before the name Jeolla-do was given, there were people living in the area (now comprising the two provinces of Jeollabuk-do and Jeollanam-do) who dreamed of a better world. In this exhibition, you can see various stories of those people who have preserved this land of Jeolla-do for more than 1,000 years.

Dates: Location: Admission: Telephone: Website:

October 23 – February 10, 2019 (open 10:00–18:00) 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju, (Gwangju National Museum) 광주 북구 하서로 110 국립광주박물관 2층 기획전시실 Free 062-570-7000 http://gwangju.museum.go.kr/index.do

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Gwangju Theater 62 Chungjang-ro 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC Wave) TICKETS: 8,000 won CONTACT: 062-224-5858 For more information, please visit http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb, and Hancinema.

All English language films are presented with Korean subtitles; non-English international films are presented with Korean subtitles only.

COURTESY TO THE NATION 1991, 봄 Genre: Documentary Director: Gwon Gyungwon Film Length: 89 minutes Language: Korean (no subtitles) Starring: Kang Gi-hoon Summary: Men are social animals.

The film discusses this from a personal perspective, that of Cahng Gi-Hoon, who lived through the struggle for democracy in the 1980s and 1990s. The Cahng Gi-hoon false accusation of assisted suicide is said to have been the symbol of patriotic student martyrs of the 1990s. Cahng Gi-hoon himself has become a forgotten part of Korean history. The film tracks down Cahng, but focuses more on the rampant corruption of government officials.

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FINDING YOUR FEET 해피 댄싱 Genres: Drama, Comedy Director: Richard Loncraine Film Length: 111 minutes Language: English (Korean subtitles) Starring: Imelda Staunton, Celia Imrie, Timothy Spall Summary: On the eve of retirement a middle class, judgmental snob discovers her husband has been having an affair with her best friend and is forced into exile with her bohemian sister who lives on an impoverished inner-city council estate.

October 19 – November 4 Hampyeong Expo Park, 27 Gonjae-ro, Hampyeong, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 함평군 함평읍 곤재로 27 Free admission 061-320-1784 http://www.hampyeong.go.kr/ The 2018 Beolgyo Cockle Festival 벌교꼬막축제 2018 November 2–4 19 Bulgyo-cheon-1-gil, Bulgyoeup, Bosung-gun, Jeollanam-do 전남 보성군 벌교읍 벌교천1길 19 Free admission 061-857-7676 http://벌교읍민회.kr/ The 2018 Jiri Mountain Maple Festival 지리산 피아골 단풍축제 2018 November 3–4 Nadong-ri, Toji-myeon, Guryegun, Jeollanam-do (Jiri Mountain, Piagol Gorge) 전남 구례군 토지면 내동리 (지리산 피아골) Free admission 061-780-2227 http://tour.gurye.go.kr/ The 2018 Hwasun Chrysanthemum Festival 화순국화향연 2018 October 26 – November 11 86 Jingak-ro, Hwasun-eup, Hwasun-gun, Jeollanam-do (Namsan Park) 전남 화순군 화순읍 진각로86 남산공원 일원 Free admission 061-379-3575 http://www.hwasun.go.kr/festival/

November 2018

ODE TO THE GOOSE 군산:거위를 노래하다 Genre: Drama Director: Zhang Lu Film Length: 122 minutes Language: Korean (no subtitles)

YOUNG-JU 영주 Genre: Drama Director: Cha Seong-deok Film Length: 100 minutes Language: Korean (no subtitles) Starring: Kim Hyang-gi, Kim Hojung Summary: Young-ju lives with her little brother after losing her parents in a traffic accident. She sacrifices a lot, even giving up her studies to care for her brother. But as life gets more difficult, Young-ju decides to visit the perpetrator of the accident that killed her parents.

The 2018 Korean Chrysanthemum Festival 대한민국 국향대전 2018

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

FILM STARS DON’T DIE IN LIVERPOOL 필름스타 인 리버풀 Genre: Drama Director: Paul McGuigan Film Length: 105 minutes Language: English (Korean subtitles) Starring: Annette Bening, Jamie Bell, Vanessa Redgrave Summary: A romance sparks between aging Hollywood superstar and her younger lover. As their mismatched romance waxes and wanes over time, events conspire to keep them in each other’s lives even when it proves difficult and demanding.

Starring: Park Hae-il, Moon So-ri, Jung Jin-young Summary: Yoon-yeong has been harboring feelings for Song-hyeon, a friend’s wife. When he finds out that she is divorced, Yoon-yeong and Song-hyeon take a trip to Gunsan on a whim. They find lodging at an inn where the middle-aged owner lives with his autistic daughter who does not leave her room. The four become star-crossed lovers in the city of Gunsan.

November 2018 Jeollanamdo Happenings

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Upholding Indigenous Rights and Combatting Racism in Guatemala and the Rest of the World Exclusive Interview with José Francisco Cali Tzay

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

FEATURE

Written by Wilson Melbostad Photographs courtesy of World Human Rights Cities Forum Secretariat

Wilson Melbostad (left) interviewing José Francisco Cali Tzay.

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I

f you had the opportunity to drop in on the 2018 World Human Rights Cities Forum (WHRCF), which took place here in Gwangju during October 18–21 at the Kim Daejung Convention Center, you surely would have bumped into some truly influential characters in the human rights community. The forum, which is an annual and quickly developing tradition in our city, serves as a platform for practitioners from around the globe to discuss issues and the best implementation of human rights practices tailored to local municipal levels. I was fortunate enough to sit down with one of these influential actors, forum headline speaker José Francisco Cali Tzay from Guatemala. Though coming to Korea at a time when his country was actually in the early steps of treaty compliance review by the United Nations Committee on the Elimination of Racial Discrimination (CERD), a committee of which he is a standing member, Mr. Cali Tzay was participating in the WHRCF in an individual capacity. Cali Tzay believes that localized policies, particularly those surrounding education’s influence on racism, were absolutely critical in creating what he felt to be necessary culture shifts in global inclusiveness.

However, in addition to his overlapping interests with the goals of the WHRCF, Cali Tzay’s story and teachings on indigenous peoples and issues of overall xenophobia are also something to behold, so we feel quite privileged to share them with you in this exclusive Gwangju News interview.

Gwangju News (GN): Please tell us a little about yourself and about the organization(s) you currently serve. I understand that you identify as Kaqchikel. Was your status as Kaqchikel integral in pursuing a career in the protection of indigenous peoples?

GN: From what I understand, indigenous Mayans make up about half of the population of Guatemala, but rights campaigners say they face extreme inequality. Can you explain to our readers, who might not have a solid grasp of Guatemalan affairs, about the civil war or what the situation is like today for indigenous peoples in the country?

Cali Tzay: It is somewhat funny to mention this, but multiple anthropological studies cite that the beginning of the civil war in Guatemala can be traced to the American counter-insurgency training program of Guatemalans in the 1950s. The Americans were deathly afraid of having a repeat of the post-WWII massacres in the Philippines, so they went out of their way to bring local Guatemalan authorities and military personnel over to the States in order to train them in protecting against any type of communist insurgency. Yet what happened instead was that once these trainees were sent back to Guatemala and dispatched to the countryside, they began utilizing their new weaponry skills against their own people. It was these

November 2018

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The group I became involved in was not supposed to be political but instead culturally focused in that we were trying to rescue our culture’s language, customs, dances, and overall traditions. Unfortunately, I now realize how naïve and young we were in those days, just children actually. What I mean by this is that we thought it was a good idea to conduct our public activities in Kaqchikel; what we did not know was that such activities could be understood as taking a political stance, specifically a position that was seen as questioning the status quo of the government. Ultimately, my participation in that group forced me to leave Guatemala in 1981 and live in exile for 14 years. I decided with my wife to come back to Guatemala with our five children in 1995, just a year and a half before the agreement between the military insurgents and the government took place. After returning, I began work in various human rights organizations, and from there, we started to defend not only human rights activists but also to speak about indigenous people’s rights. This was a continuation of the work I had pursued in exile, as I had become a part of the international indigenous movement. I first arrived in Geneva in 1985 and participated in the World Council of Indigenous Peoples, and from that time, I started to get more in touch with other international movements of indigenous peoples.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

José Francisco Cali Tzay (Cali Tzay): First of all, thank you for the time. A little about my personal history: I am a Kaqchikel Mayan, just one of the 23 linguistic groups within Guatemala (with 22 of these 23 being different Mayan languages amongst which there are more than 100 dialects). Some people say today that we are half a million, but statistical studies show that there are around a million of us in Guatemala. At this moment here at the World Human Rights Cities Forum, I represent myself, actually, and I am here at the forum in an individual capacity. My aspirations to be a protector of indigenous rights started when I was about 13 or 14 years old (though unintentionally), when I started to get involved in the indigenous movements of Guatemala. Life was very peaceful when we were younger, as both Mayans and nonMayans were all friendly with each other. However, once non-Mayan children began their studies and saw that we were different, even my old friends started to discriminate against us. It was quite a surprise to me, as I had never realized before that I was a person whose rights had to

be actively defended in the first place. Other children would say, “Even though we’re poor, at least we’re not Indians.” We had to organize basketball and soccer teams on our own since we were not allowed to participate in our own school’s teams. Certainly, this experience of discrimination when I was younger inspired me to protect the rights of my people moving forward.

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José Francisco Cali Tzay addresses the crowd at the WHRCF Opening Dinner.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

trainees who became the guerilla insurgent forces during the civil war.

The war was long and bloody; more than 250,000 people were lost on both sides. The Mayans fought on both the side of the government and that of the insurgents, as they were forced to pick between two evils in order to survive.

Despite the fact that it was a war that most Mayans did not want, most of the battles consisted of almost 100 percent Mayans since they were strategically placed on the frontlines. The peace agreement in 1996 stopped the fighting, and though the agreement was quite an advanced document, as my wife always says: It is people, rather than a piece of paper, who hold the power to implement it. The reality is that the agreement’s portions on recognition of indigenous peoples in Guatemala, though comprehensive from a textual standpoint, have been hardly implemented in practice. Structural racism and the political persecution of the Mayans is still rampant, and political willingness is greatly needed.

GN: You were elected as a member of the CERD in 2004 as the first and only indigenous member of a UN treaty monitoring body. Can you talk about what it was like participating within the UN treaty body system? Did you find yourself more often encouraged or discouraged by the information you learned in the CERD proceedings?

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Cali Tzay: Sometimes what I see in the CERD discourages me, but many times I have been encouraged to continue.

Small changes keep me going. For example, in Peru, the Philippines, and also in Ecuador, the CERD has given suggestions for how to better protect indigenous peoples.

I am not saying that indigenous peoples there are living in heaven, but now in these countries’ constitutions and laws these peoples’ rights are recognized. Another example I point to is the Western Shoshone tribe in the U.S. There, the CERD condemned the government for committing environment-related racism against the tribe for over six years. Of course, I am not saying that the UN will solve all the world’s problems. The UN is a governmental institution based on the states who are members of it. But all the instruments stipulated by the UN are only tools and political instruments for civil society and for indigenous peoples. Case in point, an attorney from the Western Shoshone took the CERD’s decision to Washington, D.C., and lobbied against some of the companies exploiting uranium and other minerals on their territory. After speaking with government reps and leaving a copy of our report, many of the extraction companies retired from the area. Stories like these keep me going and force me to continue this work.

The former high commissioner for human rights recently pointed out that though we have been making great advancements in fighting racism in the world,

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11 unfortunately, racism has also become more advanced and sophisticated than ever before. I would also add to this that the practice of racism has become cynical. You do not need to hit someone physically to practice racism; by only looking at someone in a particular way you can express racism. Racism needs to be continuously fought, as it is quickly becoming the worst illness of human beings in this era. Those who believe there exists a superior race clearly suffer from psychological illness. The reality is that there is only one race, and that is the human race.

GN: Maintaining one’s indigeneity against the backdrop of our globalized world is becoming more and more difficult for many. Media and globalization have been a blessing and a curse in the sense that they have greatly opened up the rest of the world to everyone, while also providing clashes in culture to the foundations for moral values, beliefs, and customs. What do you say to people who believe that, while protecting culture is important, cultural change and cultural homogenization in our globalizing world is inevitable? Is there a specific balance that can be struck?

Cali Tzay: Culture is not static or permanent. Everything changes, even a stone changes. Thus, cultures also change simply with the passing of time. I hear arguments that to be “indigenous” your culture has to go back at least 500 years, yet culture is fluid and dynamic and can never be encapsulated in such a way. The cultures of indigenous people under colonialism adjusted to fit the needs of survival, thus I do not believe there is such a thing as a pure indigenous culture. Perhaps the closest thing to this

ideal would be the uncontacted tribal communities deep in the jungles of Brazil, yet everyone else has already mixed and been subjected to great transformations up to now.

However, in saying that, we as the human race do have the right to identify as indigenous. Additionally, a community has the right to reject or to accept one’s identification as an indigenous person. We have to continue to discuss how to identify as a group. For example, the Kaqchikel language is a base for being part of the Kaqchikel people.

By contrast, the Q’eqchi’ group in Guatemala lost their language but are still proud to identify as Q’eqchi’, and no one can say they are not Q’eqchi’ just because they do not have their language preserved. The ultimate lesson is that every group has the right to set up its own parameters; however, in doing so the membership of a particular group should never serve as a basis to claim superiority or act as a measuring stick for participation in a particular society. This, of course, is the delicate balance between racism and respect for indigeneity, and it is an imperative lesson for Korea and all nations to learn if we are to truly coexist peacefully as human beings.

The Author

Wilson Melbostad is an international human rights attorney hailing from San Francisco, California. Wilson has returned to Gwangju to undertake his newest project: the Organization for Migrant Legal Aid (OMLA), which operates out of the Gwangju International Center. He has also taken on the position of managing editor of the Gwangju News.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

José Francisco Cali Tzay (left) with Mayor of Seoul, Park Won-soon (second from the right), and other distinguished speakers.

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FEATURE FEATURE

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November 2018

Members of the WHRCF Human Rights Bootcamp gather with special lecturer Chung Shin Young (bottom row, third from the right), Head Attorney of Advocates for Public Interest Law (APIL) in Seoul.

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Gwangju Continues to Lead the Way for Human Rights and Peace in Asia Written by Danielle Thaysen Photographs courtesy of World Human Rights Cities Forum Secretariat

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Gwangju mayor Lee Yong-seop addresses the audience at the forum’s opening ceremony.

Presentation from the Talk Concert: Climate Change and Human Rights.

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Identifying the important role that cities play in promoting and implementing human rights for all, the city of Gwangju proudly hosted its eighth annual World Human Rights Cities Forum 2018 (2018 Forum) last month. The 2018 Forum delved into the issue of community by asking the question “Whom Do We Live With?”

November 2018

When we look back into our history, migration is our shared experience as humans. However, without an awareness of the lives of our neighbors and newcomers in cities (and the surrounding areas), discrimination

against people who are different can lead to human rights breaches. Common misconceptions about migrants, immigrants, and refugees start with a foundational failure to recognize such people as human beings with similar desires, hopes, and dreams who leave behind similar things.

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A

harmonious society, in essence, could be thought of as one that holds in very high esteem human rights and equality of all people. We live in an ever-changing world and globalization is real – it cannot be ignored. With globalization comes the movement of resources, goods, services, and of course, people. People tend to move to cities and countries that offer the greatest opportunities for work and to make a living.

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Members of the Korean Human Rights Policy Session including Mayor of Gwangju Lee Yong-seop (third from left), Mayor of Seoul Park Won-soon (fourth from left), Mayor of Daegu Kwon Young-jin (fourth from right), and Mayor of Suwon Yeom Tae-young (third from right).

Shams Asadi, Human Rights Commissioner and head of the Human Rights Office of the City of Vienna.

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November 2018

Mayor of Gwangju Lee Yong-seop and OHCHR Deputy High Commissioner of Human Rights Kate Gilmore view the opening of the Accessibility Exhibit in City Hall.

The Human Rights Cities for Localizing Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) session.

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15 Representatives and speakers from local governments and human rights institutions from all over the world gathered over a period of four days to discuss practical alternatives for strengthening diversity, inclusion, and peace in various communities, with particular focus on the topics of migrants, refugees, the right to peace, education, gender equality, and the rights of the elderly and the disabled.

In recognizing that policy implementation processes affect the lives of ordinary people, the 2018 Forum also invited members of the public to attend the event, and additionally organized a four-week Human Rights Bootcamp lead by Wilson Melbostad from the Organization of Migrant Legal Aid. I was one of the 46 participants who were invited to take part in both the 2018 Forum and the Human Rights Bootcamp. In retrospect, I can say that I now find myself more enlightened about the human rights issues surrounding migrants and refugees in South Korea and the similar issues cities across Europe, South America, and Asia are currently facing.

It was an extremely insightful and fascinating experience getting to meet and listen to human rights experts from across the world who shared their stories and practical suggestions about how to give effect to human rights through the implementation of human rights policies at a local level.

I was particularly inspired by Aida Guillén Lanzarote from the Barcelona City Council, who believes that a city can change the world, and that it is up to governments at a local level to raise awareness amongst their citizens, who are generally in the majority population, about human rights, migrants, and refugees.

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Another participant, Paik Joohee, a final-year economics student studying at Chonnam National University, also joined out of curiosity about human rights and the recent refugee situation in Jeju. “I want to study a way of helping refugees,” she says. Paik spent a year living in Taiwan where she made a variety of foreign friends from Taiwan, Indonesia, Vietnam, France, Mexico, Korea, Japan, and Malaysia. “I learned a lot about different cultures through them, and I realized that English is an important tool to communicate. After that year, I decided to study Chinese and improve my English. It was an amazing experience because I learned that the world is so big. At the same time, I saw many poor people and the discrimination these people faced,” Paik added. She would like to find a way to help poor people after she graduates.

I do believe that Gwangju, the city of democracy, human rights, and peace, in hosting and putting together such an extraordinary forum dedicated to human rights (not to mention its various other human rights initiatives), will put into practice what it has learned from other human rights cities across the world and pioneer a city connected in its different cultural identities, which other cities in the nation and abroad can admire and hopefully follow.

The Author

Daniellé is from the Republic of South Africa, where she is a qualified attorney. She currently lives in Gwangju, where she splits her time between teaching English, promoting education in human rights, and international law at the Global English Education Academy, and traveling to as many beautiful parts of Korea as she can.

November 2018

Nigina Khamdamova, a Chonnam National University student from Uzbekistan who also attended the Human Rights Boot Camp and the 2018 Forum, heard about the event through an announcement in class. She was interested in learning more about her human rights.

“Being in Korea, I have heard so many cases of migrant workers who are being treated unfairly and abused,” she says. “Recently there was an incident with an Uzbek guy who was caught by immigration officers, and he was

”It was an extremely insightful and fascinating experience getting to meet and listen to human rights experts from across the world who shared their stories and practical suggestions about how to give effect to human rights through the implementation of human rights policies at a local level. “

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Encouraging awareness about whom we live with, creating opportunities to engage with our neighbors, and educating others in how to understand and connect with their feelings is important. True human connection breaks down walls in that it has the potential to diffuse ignorance, hate, prejudice, violence, ego, protectionism, and greed.

beaten and abused. I guess he was an illegal worker. Well, he was legally in the country because he was a student, but he had a part-time job, and that is not allowed.”

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16

Baby Onion Says Hello

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

FEATURE

Written by Maria Lisak Illustrations by Lisa Casaus

Car Swamp, created for the New Mexico SCBWI Enchantment Show in 2016, continues a series of illustrations conceived in 2010 and, of course, Baby Onion! SCBWI stands for Society of Children’s Book Writers and Illustrators. There are chapters all over the world.

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17

▲ Koyangi searches for the perfect pants. Drawing from past experiences, with the added bonus of some Korean vocabulary practice, the artist seeks to explore the real-life stress of clothes shopping through humor.

M

EET BABY ONION “I like onions” is Lisa Casaus’ standard introduction of her work. She likes the round, the yellow, the quirky. She likes onions; and nowhere is this more apparent than in her Baby Onion character.

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November 2018

GWANGJU NEWS COVER FOR THE MAY 2018 ISSUE Lisa has also been on the cover of the Gwangju News, well, her artwork has. When beginning to envision the cover for the latest May issue of the Gwangju News, Lisa was thinking of an illustration, something like a drawing

BEFORE, DURING, AND AFTER GWANGJU Lisa is inspired by everything and keeps a private notebook where she writes what she sees and hears, capturing a story image from here and there. A favorite project from the past that shows her brain at work was about pants.

While she was working back in the States, she had a conversation with a vendor about pants: not being able to find what you want, when you want it, for the price you are willing to pay. This conversation morphed into The Magic Pants Tree. At that time, she was dying for some pants and learning Korean as well. All these pieces of her life were transformed into the search for a perfect pair of

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CONNECTING IN GWANGJU Lisa appreciates the wide selection of opportunities to have her art in public spaces in Gwangju. She has been an active participant in the Gwangju Art Class since August 2016, often helping Jen Lee and Áine Byrne with special events and classes (including fundraisers for the animal shelter and local orphanages). Since January of this year, she and animator Raqib Hasan Apu have been planning art classes on Saturdays as regular instructors. She has also made reflection cards for teachers for her local teacher professional development group of Korea TESOL. She has set up sales tables on Saturdays at Daein Night Art Market and has also exhibited there, both in a group show as well as in a solo exhibition. Gearing her sales items to the audience attracted to the events, she often prepares small giveaways for kids and adults alike. Next up for her is to bring to life some of her “kid’s books for adults” and find venues to market these gems.

or a painting. She went through her usual stages of drawing and making thumbnails – about 20 iterations in all – before she decided she wanted to use actual photos from the events she was trying to evoke. Taking photos from popular struggles in South Africa, China, Gwangju, Taiwan, and Romania, she brought in flags, banners, cars, and people – cutting them into silhouettes that she moved about to get the best composition. In the printing stage, she tried some different approaches. First, she printed the photos in black and white, adding layers of acrylic paint, but there was not enough room for text. Lisa printed and cut again, recreating the first piece. The second piece was more compact, with more layers of paint and attention to composition. Lastly, the image was scanned and final color adjustments were made digitally. The result was a colorful collection that brought to light the deep meaning imbued in these fraught events.

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November 2018

“I also recycled!” The artist recommissioned the envelope of her KOTESOL quarterly magazine as a base on which to layer paint and cut-up photographs.

Collage for the 2018 May cover of the Gwangju News. During the process of creating the cover, the artist spent time positioning and re-positioning the cut photographs to move the eye through the piece.

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▲ Follow the Golden Goose Road, an acrylic painting, features the artist’s signature character, Baby Onion, and her love of bright colors – especially golden yellow.

pants and the dream tree in The Magic Pants Tree.

Travel influences not just her style but also the brand and business side of her artistry. Her Japan visit has pumped up her interest in stamps, and she has been wanting to make a scavenger hunt of some kind since returning to Gwangju. Lisa is envisioning a studio that is a joint space with a shop that also offers classes. While she is looking

The Author

Maria Lisak is celebrating the 22nd anniversary of her first steps in South Korea this year. From the Midwest in the US, her Chicago accent still plagues her Korean pronunciation. She has been teaching public administration and social welfare at Chosun University since 2012. You can check out her degree pedigree on her blog: koreamaria. typepad.com/gwangju

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November 2018

“Doodling has always been a key part of her creative life. She finds that doodling and meditation let her tap into her subconscious, releasing the pressure on her, as no specific outcome is required.

Doodling lets her mash up her experiences of travel especially. “

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Gwangju was to be a break from her part-time business creation, but she still works on the art creation part of her business. The content of her art here in Gwangju, painting and sketching mainly, has not been as clearly narrative in form as that of the illustrated books she had been making.

Doodling has always been a key part of her creative life.

She finds that doodling and meditation let her tap into her subconscious, releasing the pressure on her, as no specific outcome is required. Doodling lets her mash up her experiences of travel especially.

for ways to make things more personalized, she is also hoping to create art full time. Of course, how to do this is at the top of her list. More education, business, and marketing, or more networking? But then, Germany is calling to her heart as well. Could she make her dreams come alive there, too?

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20 20 20 Lost in Gwangju

The Tragic Beauty of Cloud Bridge

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November 2018

COMMUNITY GWANGJUTRAVEL NEWS 200 SPECIAL

Written and photographed by Isaiah Winters

O

ne of the best views of Gwangju is offered

by Cloud Bridge (구름다리), a tied-arch pedestrian overpass located in Bongseondong, Nam-gu. The narrow, 37-meter-high bridge was built to connect the hiking trails that run along the ridges of Jeseok Mountain (제석산). Day or night, it’s a great place to get some fresh air and enjoy a unique view of Gwangju’s dense cityscape cropped by mountain slopes. The bridge is especially attractive at night as it’s colorfully lit yet eerily quiet, making it an ideal place for nocturnal couples to enjoy the City of Light from a more reclusive vantage point. The bridge’s year-round 24-hour access is another notable feature, as most other sites offering comparable views are either time-restricted or harder to reach.

posted in the area. (I counted six such notices along two of the staircases leading to the bridge.) Given the area’s heavy foot traffic, these signs provide good Samaritans the opportunity to report any unusual behavior, something that’s no doubt saved lives. A few years back, I was “saved” by just such a concerned citizen in Romania when I was spotted climbing the façade scaffolding of a certain high-profile building (for photographic purposes, naturally). As I had my earbuds in with music blaring, it wasn’t until I reached the top that I noticed a half dozen emergency vehicles down below. The police later told me that a passerby thought I was going to jump and so immediately phoned emergency services. Needless to say, I’ve become a bit less adventurous since then.

As appealing as all this may sound, Cloud Bridge’s height and accessibility aren’t without their downsides.

For instance, in March of 2017, a 119 rescue team had to rush to the bridge in response to an early morning suicide alert. Thirty-five minutes before it was too late, the team encountered a 24-year-old man who reportedly suffered from financial and mental difficulties. Despite the rescue team’s efforts to help, the man took the tragic plunge anyway, avoiding the air mat stretched out below, and died at the scene.

Compounding the tragedy, later that same day, the man’s 26-year-old lover also fell to her death from the same bridge.[1] Sadly, more than a few others have used this location to take their own lives, something that makes Cloud Bridge’s role in suicide prevention a worthwhile topic.

In addition to Cloud Bridge’s many existing signs, the area might benefit from having actual phones that directly contact such services, especially 24-hour crisis counselors. As almost everyone has cellphones these days, such phone installations would be less for concerned citizens and more for the potentially suicidal who might want someone to talk to. A good place to put one such phone would be between the two benches at the foot of the main staircase leading to the bridge. It might also be good to flank the bridge itself with two such phones. Another idea, albeit an expensive one, would be to install safety netting beneath the bridge’s deck. Although such a fixture would certainly affect the bridge’s aesthetics, the picturesque views wouldn’t be affected at all, as there’s nothing to see directly under Cloud Bridge except an uninspiring two-lane road and some foliage.

The good news is that uplifting signs with phone numbers for emergency services, 24-hour crisis counseling, and the Namgu Community Health Center’s Mental Health Promotion Center are amply

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These pipe dreams aside, what’s for certain is that suicide in Gwangju (and in Korea generally) is and will continue to be an issue in need of greater

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A realistic and symbolic view of what’s directly below Cloud Bridge.

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November 2018

A view of Cloud Bridge in early autumn.

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November 2018

An evening view of Gwangju’s cityscape from Cloud Bridge.

attention. Fortunately, in April of this year, the Gwangju Mental Health and Welfare Center (광주정신건강복지센터) and its affiliated Suicide Prevention Center (자살예방센터) released the results of a five-year analysis on suicide in Gwangju spanning the years 2012–2016.[2] At first glance, what surprised me most about the data was just how evenly distributed suicide is across the age spectrum in Gwangju, with those in their 30s, 40s, 50s, and over the age of 70 each accounting for roughly 20 percent of suicides. Those in their 20s and 60s accounted for about ten percent each, while those in their teens accounted for just under three percent. (Feel free to consult the analysis for the exact figures.)

The research also revealed that for each of these age brackets, there are particular stressors that are more likely to provoke suicide attempts. For those in their 30s and over the age of 50, family discord was the major impetus for attempted suicide. For those in their 40s, economic difficulties were the driving factor, while for those in their teens and 20s, relationship-related problems were

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the main motivating factor involved. However, the one commonality that was found equally across all age groups was the presence of mental health issues, which was involved in about half of all suicide attempts recorded.

Another finding that stood out was the gender disparity that comes with suicidal behavior. Of the total 1,702 people who committed suicide in Gwangju during 2012–2016, about 70 percent were men and 30 percent were women. Interestingly, the analysis found that this gender imbalance reversed a bit when it came strictly to suicide attempts, with women attempting suicide more often than men. The results also showed that although the men attempted suicide less than the women, the former’s suicide intent was more likely to prove fatal. Apparently, broadly similar gender disparities in suicide can be found globally.

If you or someone you know is in need of help, read Josh Garcia’s Gwangju News article “Breaking the Silence: Mental Healthcare Access in Gwangju,” which links

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23 to a few local resources for English-language counseling.[3] For more urgent situations, dialing 119 is probably the best English-language option.

I’ll end this piece with what I think is the most poignant quote found at Cloud Bridge: “Did you eat today? Are you dressed now? Do you have a place to sleep? Then it’s okay. You’re already rich.”

Sources

[1]: Yonhap News. (2017, March 23). 광주 제석산 구름다리서 20대 남녀 잇따라 극단 선택. Retrieved from the Maeil Business Newspaper website: http://news.mk.co.kr/newsRead.php?sc=50400002&year=20 17&no=197217 [2]: Song Hyeong-il. (2018, April 13). 광주자살예방센터 “30∼40대가 가장 많이 생을 접었다.” Retrieved from the Yonhap News website: http://www.yonhapnews.co.kr/local/2018/04/13/0805010000A KR20180413064800054.HTML [3]: Garcia, J. (2017, July 26). Breaking the silence: Mental healthcare access in Gwangju. Retrieved from the Gwangju News website: http:// gwangjunewsgic.com/community/health/mental-healthcare-access/

The Author

Originally from Southern California, Isaiah Winters first came to Gwangju in 2010. He recently returned to South Korea after completing his MA in Eastern Europe and is currently the chief proofreader for the Gwangju News. He enjoys writing, political science, and urban exploring.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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November 2018

One of many inspirational support signs in the area.

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24

A Eulogy for the Nightmare Lab Written and photographed by Ryan Berkebile

anatomical parts on its premises. There are no murders or suicides (at least not that I’m aware of) connected to the Nightmare Lab. Still, it’s not every day you come across an abandoned science lab. Everything about this old educational laboratory was mysterious, a tad creepy, but exponentially more wondrous than any other place I’ve explored in Korea. Now that this place no longer sits as an eyesore, I can give it the fitting send-off it deserves.

First off, the Nightmare Lab isn’t the real name of this place. The laboratories and professors’ offices that had comprised the building sat unused for more than a

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November 2018

TRAVEL

I

’m not a ghost chaser or drawn to stories of the paranormal. I don’t explore abandonments purely for the thrill-seeking rush. My goal in my explorations is to find some evidence to compose a faithful narrative of a place I’ve found, free from myth and tall tales. The former Gonjiam Psychiatric Hospital (곤지암 정신병원) had its fair share of ghost stories, but the physical evidence I came across showed it was once a functional hospital. There were no eerie premonitions or supernatural spirits, just a lot of spray painted walls. In contrast, the most spinechilling building I’ve ever examined, known as the Nightmare Lab, contained actual vertebrae and other

The bone structure of a dog covered in years of dust.

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25

Coming across a scene like this provokes the imagination.

Entrance into the building was an iffy matter. You need timing and a little bit of luck on your side. Whenever one broken window was boarded up, another freshly shattered window took its place. An active battle raged between campus maintenance and the trespassers who

A jagged hole big enough for contortionists stood between us and the path to the Nightmare Lab. With gloved hands, we carefully took out the large shards of glass and finessed our way in. Walking through the hallways and peeking into the laboratories, we saw vials,

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November 2018

made their own entrances. Personally, I’ve never smashed windows in order to get into a building. If there isn’t an easy, less intrusive way in, then it’s not worth it. Over the three times I’d been there, I used the same way in, possibly an indicator the caretakers resigned themselves over the matter. Or maybe they already knew what was going to happen with the building. During my last visit, I saw signs of refurbishment and revitalization. Buildings that’d been neglected had been given fresh paint jobs and fresh windows. The dormitory and dining hall that were shuttered up and fitted with alarms were suddenly being renovated – a sign of things to come for all buildings on the campus.

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decade on a branch campus of a well-known university in Korea. The Nightmare Lab was christened by a fellow urban explorer friend who came across this particular building while wandering around rural Gyeonggi-do around 2013. The name captures the imagination, as does the contents inside the building itself. My first visit to the Nightmare Lab was with said urban explorer friend on a group excursion during Chuseok a few years ago. The cream-colored facade of the building was weather beaten, with high patches of paint chips swaying loose from the walls. The building could’ve been a perfect setting for David Fincher’s grimy, suspenseful films Fight Club or Seven.

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November 2018

26

The collection of specimen dated from the mid-50s until late-60s.

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27 beakers, and microscope slides splayed out all over the ground, perhaps by another curious visitor. The numerous calendars we witnessed ended between late 2003 and early 2004. Chalkboards in laboratories were either defaced by young thrill seekers or served as time capsules retaining the last written messages from the professors to students.

In a former instructor’s room laid discarded pictures of past-attended agricultural science conferences. The person also seemed to be a honey connoisseur. Jars labeled “bush-clover [sic] honey,” “chestnut honey,” along with other varieties, were labeled from the early to late 1980s, well past a reasonable date of consumption. Quite a few of the professors’ offices were filled with personal effects left behind, which, as an urban explorer, are always fun to go through and ruminate on. However, the room our guide directed us to on the second floor left us all awestruck.

Entering this professor’s room, we came face-to-face with a mounted skeleton of a medium-sized dog. I’m not sure whether it was a bonafide mutt or just a model used to study its structure. It’s the first thing that gave me goosebumps. I felt surprised but not shaken. I was more disorientated from the stained floral wallpaper, which added this David Lynch-esque surreality to the moment.

Coming across the bodies of cats, birds, and mice in various stages of decay is a common occurrence when checking out an abandoned location. If you’re squeamish about such things, this hobby is probably not for you.

Entering this room, I wasn’t ill at ease from disintegration but rather from an immense scene of preservation.

Starfish, snakes, a cat’s nervous system, and other creatures prevailed from rot in jars filled with formaldehyde. Glass containers were labeled with their scientific names, dates,

and locations from which they were procured. Collection dates ranged from the mid-1950s up to the late ’60s.

These jars were easily the oldest objects I’ve encountered on an exploration, and it was an entire shelf filled with mummified life! I felt like Indiana Jones coming across King Tut’s tomb. Unfortunately, some of the creatures didn’t survive the test of time.

In the end, none of the artifacts and specimens achieved immortality. Within a few years of my first exploration, the building was targeted for refurbishment. I haven’t gone back since early 2017, but I’ve seen from a friend’s post to a group page that there are still buildings on campus lingering in obscurity. Unlike Gonjiam Psychiatric Hospital, this location has been a well-kept secret. While the Nightmare Lab did attract its fair share of misfits and curio seekers, this campus has stayed under the radar, possibly due to a lack of scary legend connected to it.

Hallelujah, it didn’t die from tourism and media hype.

Only in its death do I feel comfortable talking about the Nightmare Lab, albeit in a slightly guarded way. You know what? It’s okay for people to have secret places that aren’t Instagrammed or Facebooked, feeding the hype machine and leading to over-visited places. The Nightmare Lab died in a dignified way.

The Author

Ryan Berkebile is an English teacher, analog camera fanatic, and urban explorer living in Gwangju. He has been teaching in Korea since 2005 with brief stops in Vietnam and Japan along the way. Visit longdistancerunner. org or @zen_compass to see photos of his explorations.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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November 2018

▲ From left: Some jars were completely devoid of formaldehyde; a toad frozen in a smile; the initial view of one professor’s office.

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FOOD & DRINKS

28 Where to Eat

Bistro Karu

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November 2018

Written and photographed by Sarah Pittman

A

s one of the food columnists for the Gwangju News, I try not to have the same style of food every month. Gwangju is full of many different cultures and cuisines, and I want to at least try to showcase every one. This month is a little different, however.

As I was wandering around the Dongmyeong-dong area to the northeast of the Asia Culture Center (ACC) looking for something new to eat, my eye caught sight of a picture of a very sweet-looking Shiba Inu dog wearing a kerchief. Next to the picture was the name Bistro Karu.

Now, if you know me, you know how much I love dogs of all shapes and sizes, and this is why I had no choice but to step inside and see what it had to offer.

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Up a flight of stairs, a white Shiba Inu named Latte was waiting patiently to greet people behind the restaurant’s glass door. Sadly, the owner’s other Shiba Inu, named Karu, was not there that day. The hostess very kindly offered me a table by a large window. The décor was an inviting combination: A very modern look with lots of concrete was made warm and homey with rustic wooden chairs and gold cutlery. The menu was purely in Korean, but they did provide glossy 4x6 pictures of the dishes with the menu.

Bistro Karu mostly serves traditional Italian comfort foods like linguine and risotto, but it also has created some Korean spins on Italian favorites as well. The dishes range in price from 15,000 won for linguine to 30,000 won for

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29 29 a sous-vide Akaushi Wagyu steak. I was drawn towards the donkatsu-style chicken and mushroom risotto. To be completely honest, I had never tried risotto before this, but the photo looked so good I could not pass it up.

As soon as the plate arrived at the table, I knew I had made the right choice! The chicken smelled amazing and was perfectly cooked, with crispy skin on the outside and juicy breast meat on the inside. The risotto was amazing with a running river of butter underneath it. It was slightly cheesy, with a perfect ratio of mushrooms so that you could have one in every bite. I was expecting the butter to be too overwhelming from how it looked, but it worked perfectly with the chicken. On top of the chicken were pickled perilla leaves. On their own, the leaves were unpalatable, but when mixed in with the risotto, they added a bright and bitter contrast to the soft, rich flavors.

Bistro Karu opened four months ago, in June. It is run by Choi Jae Kwang and his sister. Bistro Karu is open from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., and again from 5:00 p.m. to 9:00

p.m. You can find more information about the restaurant on its Instagram page @Bistro_Karu. It is located at 11 Jangdong-ro, Dong-gu (광주 동구 장동로 11), near the ACC lawn.

BISTRO KARU 카루식당

Address: 11 Jangdong-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 장동로 11

Telephone: 070-8865-1818 Opening Times: Daily 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m. (break time 3:30 – 5 p.m.)

The Author

Sarah lives in Gwangju with her boyfriend and dog. She graduated from CSUF in California in 2016 with a bachelor’s degree in psychology. She would like to find a job teaching back in the United States. She enjoys photography, food, sleeping, and watching Netflix.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

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2018-10-30 �� 12:13:42

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

EDUCATION FOOD & DRINKS

30 Korean Food

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31

Tteokbokki

Spicy Stir-Fried Rice Cakes Written by Joe Wabe

I

have to admit that tteok, or long, white, cylinder-shaped rice cakes, was not an easy snack to adapt to. Its chewy bland taste was not something I really cared for. But when I tried it stirfried in a spicy and sweet red pepper sauce, it was a game changer for me. It was love at first taste, and I began to look at rice cake in a whole new way.

INGREDIENTS (Serves 3) 500 grams of long rice cake sticks 1 green onion chopped into long pieces 2 tablespoons of anchovy stock

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INSTRUCTIONS

1. If you are using frozen or hard rice

2.

3.

4.

cake sticks, soak them in water for about 20 minutes. Fresh and soft rice cake sticks do not need thawing.

In a pot, put the water, sugar, pepper paste, and powder, and let it come to a boil. Add the anchovy stock and rice cake and reduce the heat to medium.

Stir frequently until the sauce becomes thick; then add the green onion with the rest of the optional ingredients.

Continue to stir until you reach the desired cake texture, and adjust the taste according to your palate.

The Author

Joe Wabe is an established photographer and Gwangju local business entrepreneur.

He has been contributing to the GIC and the Gwangju News for more than eight years.

November 2018

This recipe has continued to evolve over time, and many new and creative ingredients have been added over the years. Today, ingredients such as fishcake, sausages, dumplings, noodles, eggs, shrimp, and even cheese have become part of the norm.

OPTIONAL fishcake sausage dumplings ramen noodles hard-boiled eggs

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Tteokbokki is a popular street-food snack loved by most Koreans. It is one of those beloved dishes that brings back lots of childhood memories for many, and it is considered a “happy food.” The first records of tteokbokki date back to the 19th century, and it was known by various names, including tteokjim (steamed rice cakes), tteokjapchae (stir-fried rice cakes), and tteokjeongol (rice cake hot pot). There was even a royal version made with high quality ingredients, including soy sauce brewed by some of the most famous family clans.

However, the red and spicy tteokbokki variety we know today did not appear until the 1950s, when it began to be sold at street stalls and snack bars in the neighborhoods of Seoul.

3 cups of water 3 tablespoons of red pepper paste 1 to 3 tablespoons of red pepper powder (depending on the desired level of spiciness) 1 tablespoon of sugar

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32 Korea TESOL

Making Language Learning Easier

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David E. Shaffer

A

s language teachers, we all know – contrary to what some coursebook publishers and language schools would have us believe – that learning a second language is not easy. There is no shortcut. No magic formula. Learning a language is a long-term project, requiring a considerable investment of time and effort.

However, not everyone learns the same language at the same rate. It has little to do with IQ. Rather, it has a lot to do with how the learner approaches the language learning task and the strategies that are employed in learning it. Let us call it a “QQ,” a quality quotient, the knowledge of the most effective ways of approaching language learning. As language educators, it is our job to see that our students are made aware of these strategies, rather than holding to the antiquated belief that language learning is purely a matter of rote memorization.

THE LEARNER MINDSET: MOTIVATION It is easy to say “Motivate your students!” But in a learning environment such as the Korean context, where English study is mandated from elementary school onwards, it is easy for that initial novelty-induced enthusiasm to dissipate under incessant instruction based on vocabulary-andgrammar-rule memorization and testing. Students need goals to strive for; they need a reason for studying English or any second language. “Because you have to” just does not cut it. Students need long-term, mid-term, and shortterm goals, and they need to be involved in making them.

“To be like Ban Ki-moon” may work for a sixth-grader; “to head an international business” may suit one later in life. Goals should be realistic and attainable to sustain motivation. It is essential that teachers help students realize the importance of learning English and give them direction in setting personalized language learning goals.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

So what are these methods of making the language learning process a bit faster and less arduous? Here are some of the

ones that I think are most important.

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2018-10-30 �� 12:13:44

33 BEING ORGANIZED Good organizational skills are important; the good language learner has these. Good language learners (let us call them GLLs) set for themselves regular and realistic language learning schedules, and determine the focus of each study session. Granted, this is difficult for the young learner, so teacher support is essential for the development of these skills. The younger the student, the greater the need of support. It is good for language learners (LLs) to keep a record of their own learning.

This could involve anything from a simple notepad and pencil to a blog. Records should be kept of language items (new vocabulary, chunks, collocations, pronunciation, etc.), but LLs should also keep a record of questions they have about the language, about their learning, about their learning problems, and reflect on them.

BE BRAVE, MAKE GUESSES, TAKE CHANCES Language learning is not best suited for the safety cautious. GLLs will boldly go where they have not gone before. They will seek out opportunities to interact with the language they are learning: finding appropriate-level reading materials, listening to the radio, watching TV and movies, seeking out people to talk to. Teachers can help by making suggestions as to what materials are best and what places to go to. When confronted with a new word or phrase while reading, GLLs will not be discouraged, as they will consider the context in which it is used and make a guess at its meaning. Confirmation will come through further reading. GLLs also take chances in using the new language. They will try out using new words and phrases whose scope of meaning and use have not yet crystalized in the learner. They will start up conversations with new faces. They will boldly step into arenas where they had never set foot before.

2018�11��.indd 33

The Author

David E. Shaffer is vice-president of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the chapter, he invites you to participate in their teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University.

He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions; at present he is national president. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching, scholarship, and leadership. He is board chair at the GIC and also editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING Date: November 17 (Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education • Presentation 1: Creativity in Five Acts

by Roger Fusselman (Joongbu University, Seoul) • Presentation 2: Seeing Through Your Students’ Eyes: Detecting Visual Problems by Becca Haydon (Dongshin University, Naju) • SwapShop – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have.

For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

November 2018

EMBRACING UNCERTAINTY The GLL is still a language learner and as such will regularly be confronted with situations that are going on and language that is being spoken that can be perplexing.

Not understanding can be frustrating, but the GLL accepts this uncertainty and adjusts to it. A GLL realizes that this is a normal part of the language learning process. The

THE TEACHER AND THE AUTONOMOUS LANGUAGE LEARNER There has been a lot of talk about autonomous language learning in recent years. One may think that this means the student studies alone and the classroom teacher has nothing to do. On the contrary, the teacher has more to do! Autonomous learning is mainly an out-of-class activity supplementing classroom coursework. Whereas the teacher may have an understanding, the LL for the most part does not. One very important task for the classroom teacher is to instruct students in the importance of autonomous learning, and what they can and should do to become autonomous language learners. Technology in many ways is making language learning easier for both the teacher and the learner, but one role that is still of the utmost importance is for teachers to inform their students of the best strategies to use to become good language learners and make the language learning process easier and more enjoyable.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

READING IS ESSENTIAL The GLL is a good reader. Consider the people who are most successful in almost any field, and you will find that they read a lot. Similarly, GLLs read a lot. It is a great source of second language input. Reading material that is easy (i.e., at the learner’s proficiency level) and interesting (i.e., something the learner wants to read) is essential and enjoyable. The teacher must make learners aware of this and direct them to sources of level-appropriate reading materials. (More and more are becoming available for free on the Internet.)

teacher can be enabling by encouraging LLs to embrace the uncertainties in their second-language lives.

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34 34

TOPIK Guide (topikguide.com) is the most comprehensive website devoted to the TOPIK exam. It’s been helping Korean language learners pass the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) for more than seven years. On this website, you can get all the TOPIK updates, grammar and vocabulary material, and study tips.

Everyday Korean Episode 11: 한자성어

Written by Harsh Kumar Mishra Korean Language Expert at TOPIKGUIDE.COM 아나: Ana:

오늘 재미있는 걸 많이 배워 봤어요. [o-neul jaemi-in-neun geol mani bae-wo bwa-sseo-yo.]

I learned lots of interesting things today.

정말? 뭘 배웠어? [jeong-mal? Mwol bae-wo-sseo?]

Jeong-min: Really? What did you learn?

EDUCATION

정민:

아나:

Ana:

정민:

오늘 수업에서 한자성어를 공부했어요. [o-neul su-eop-eseo hanja-seongeo-reul gombu-hae-sseoyo.]

I studied hanja-seongeo in today’s class.

우와! 한국인들도 잘 모르는 한자성어까지 배우고 있어. 대단해.

[uwa! Hangu-gin-deul-do jal moreu-neun hanja-seongeo-kkaji bae-ugo isseo. Dae-dan-hae.]

Jeong-min: Whoa! Even many Koreans don’t know hanja-seongeo. That’s great.

아나:

한국인들도 모른다고요? 진짜?

Ana:

[hangu-gin-deul-do moreun-dagoyo? jincha?]

You say Koreans don’t even know them? Seriously?

정민:

네. 그럼 오늘 어떤 한자성어를 배웠어?

[ne. geu-reom o-neul eo-tteon hanja-seongeo-reul bae-wosseo?]

Jeong-min: Yeah. So what hanja-seongeo did you learn today?

아나:

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

Ana:

‘일석이조’와 ‘팔방미인’에 대해서 공부했어. [“il-seok-ijo” wa “pal-bang-mi-in” e-dae-haeseo gombu-hae-sseoyo.]

I learned about ilseok-ijo and palbang-mi-in.

정민:

좋은 걸 배웠네. [jo-eun geol bae-wonne.]

Jeong-min: Oh, you learned some good stuff.

Grammar ~에 대해서: Use this to express the meaning “about ~.”

#KoreaLifeHacks 1.

Ex: 한국 음식에 대해서 알고 있어요?

Do you know about Korean food?

~ 아/어 보다: This grammar point has various meanings, but the basic meaning here is “to try / experience something.”

Ex: KTX를 2번 타 봤어요.

I have ridden the KTX two times.

Vocabulary

2.

3.

If you want your Korean to be more advanced, I would recommend you start learning hanja (Chinese characters).

Hanja helps in making and understanding new vocabulary without as much memorization.

Hanja-seongeo are four-character Chinese idioms, which have been in use in Korean for a long time. If you want to show off your awesome Korean skills, hanja-seongeo will come in handy.

If you use hanja words on the TOPIK exam, the chances are that you will get higher marks than those who use simple Korean words in writing.

한자성어: an idiomatic phrase (Chinese origin) 한국인: Korean (person) 배우다: to learn 수업: a class 알다: to know 일석이조: killing two birds with one stone 팔방미인: a jack-of-all-trades

Visit the TOPIK Guide website or our YouTube channel to improve your Korean and reach your goal on the TOPIK test.

2018�11��.indd 34

2018-10-30 �� 12:13:44

35

A Call to Undocumented Migrants:

We Urge You to Speak out About Criminal Damage Unlawful Presence Waivers

If you are the victim of a crime and report the damage to the police, you can obtain a waiver of inadmissibility to overcome your unlawful status from the Immigration Office.

Waivers are given out in cases surrounding the following laws Criminal laws on murder, injury-violence, accidental homicide, abandonment-abuse, arrest-confinement, pillage, rape-molestation, interference with the exercise of a right, theft, robbery, fraud, racketeering, special criminal laws on sexual violence crime and special laws on the settlement of traffic accidents.

COMMUNITY

범죄피해 불법체류자 통보의무 면제제도 불법체류자가 범죄피해 사실을 경찰에 신고할 경우, 불법체류자의 신상정보를 출입국관리사무소에 통보하지 않는 제도

통보면제 대상범위 살인, 상해⋅ 폭행, 과실치사상, 유기⋅ 학대, 체포⋅ 감금, 협박, 약취, 유인, 강간⋅ 추행, 권리행사방해, 절도, 강도, 사기, 공갈, 교통사고처리 특례법, 폭력행위 등 처벌에 관한 법률, 성폭력 범죄의 처벌 등에 관한 특례법

Are You the Victim of a Crime?

현재 1.

2.

3.

범죄피해로 고통받고 있다면? 경찰 112 / 광주지방경찰청 외사계 ☎ 062-609-2176, 609-2201 경찰서(민원실 등) 직접 방문 신고: 가까운 지인이 동행할 수 있고, 제3자가 대신 신고할 수도 있습니다. 인터넷 홈페이지 방문 신고: 안전 Dream 아동⋅ 여성⋅ 장애인 경찰지원센터 : www.safe182.go.kr

경찰은 중요 범죄피해를 입은 불법체류자의 신고를 접수하여 엄정히 수사함으로써 피해회복을 지원하겠습니다.

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November 2018

The Gwangju Police are here to help you with impartial and unbiased investigation if you are the victim of a crime.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

1. Call 112 / Gwangju Metropolitan Police Agency Foreign Affairs Section: 062-6092176, 609-2201 2. Visit a Nearby Police Station (Public Service Center, etc.) in Person: You can be accompanied by someone of your choice or can designate a third party to report the incident.

3. Visit Our Website: The safe dream children, women, the disabled police support center homepage: www.safe182.go.kr

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36 Expat Living

Rehabilitation Therapies for Trauma Sufferers Written and photographed by Chloe Chan

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

COMMUNITY

H

ave you ever experienced extremely desperate and stressful situations that make you feel hopeless and emotionally collapsed? Have you ever felt like you remain trapped in the same pattern, struggling with negative emotions and memories? If the answer is yes, then it may indicate that you have been suffering from psychological trauma(s) and are most likely considered traumatized.

Even though it sounds a bit frightening, as a matter of fact, it is sort of inevitable. Almost all of us have experienced a certain level of trauma, and we do not even notice how it could be affecting our lives. Psychological traumas can be caused by accidents, bullying, or injuries, and in serious cases, trauma can have long-lasting, seemingly insurmountable side effects on our lives. This is especially true for people who have suffered from state violence, as they often manifest serious trauma symptoms and a very low sense of security.

During the 5.18 (May 18) Gwangju Uprising in 1980, for the purpose of achieving political goals, lots of innocent civilians were attacked and killed by the military dictatorship. Since then, many Gwangju citizens have been suffering from horrific post-traumatic stress disorder symptoms, which in some cases lead to higher suicide rates. According to 2008 data from The May 18 Memorial Foundation, of the people who died due to the 5.18 Incident, 42 (or 10.4%) out of a total 381 committed suicide.

In 2012, South Korea had the highest suicide rate among members of the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development. As a response, the Korean government has decided to establish different organizations in order to help with the situation, to provide tailored rehabilitation services for survivors, and to increase human rights awareness. The Gwangju Trauma Center (GTC) is one of the International Rehabilitation Council for Torture Victims (IRCTV) member centers founded to fulfill these responsibilities put forward by the government. Working as an intern there, I have discovered many kinds of healing therapies that, although quite different from those medical

2018�11��.indd 36

methods that we are already used to, are still notably effective in some ways.

MUSIC THERAPY In an effort to rebuild the lives of trauma suffers, the GTC provides various kinds of treatments, including music therapy. As most of the members there are elders, they often encounter problems with expressing themselves or eliciting emotions. In these cases, music therapy is a creative way to help them address their feelings deep within and develop self-consciousness. The GTC has formed a choir with state violence survivors and their family members, and has successfully implemented music therapy into their rehabilitation program. In September, when I first took part in the program, I was quite amazed that apart from singing, many physical movements and social activities were also involved during the process.

Undoubtedly, music can bring us emotional security and support; what is more, music therapy provides avenues for communicating feelings in ways other than merely through words. For sure, the meanings of the lyrics of their songs do carry some positive vibes, but there was a certain moment when everyone in the choir was so motivated that I felt like those lyrics just suddenly went unnoticed; the music transcended words and became the best language.

To give you an idea of how a music therapy session works, the session starts with a greeting song that includes everyone’s name in the lyrics, and then ends up with the participants holding hands to a heartwarming goodbye song. The process offered such a childlike sense of healing, but surprisingly, I felt like my inner child was awake, and I believed the resurrection of peace and innocence could bring gradual, positive effects to the survivors’ weary, wounded hearts.

YOGA MOVEMENT THERAPY The GTC is providing regular psychological support at a provincial government building which is recognized as an ongoing demonstration venue, especially for 5.18 Gwangju Uprising truth-seeking activists. Rehabilitation services

2018-10-30 �� 12:13:45

37

Yoga therapy at the provincial government building located on Geumnam-ro.

A licensed doctor is guiding the guest to illustrate her feelings during “My Day.”

charging five cents and responding to “clients” by giving meaningless psychiatric advice. Fortunately, neither of these accurately portrayed the actual process.

Yoga has been growing in popularity in recent years.

Some people may think yoga is just an ordinary physical activity that is widely known to improve one’s flexibility and health condition. But above all, yoga has a significant characteristic that puts emphasis on maintaining a stable mental status and relieving pain through its practice.

Without requiring intense mobility, yoga also helps with loosening stiff muscles as well as bringing mental calmness; hence, it is an ideal exercise for state violence survivors who have certain physical limitations.

Instead, the main feature of “My Day” was to make the healing process public, which kind of reshaped my stereotype of what counseling should be. Indeed, the way the GTC arranged this event really exhibits the essence of talking therapy – people are given chances to explore their feelings. Meanwhile by expressing their fears and how they coped with traumas, mutual understandings and inspirations are developed between speakers and listeners.

For a foreigner like me who has a lack of knowledge about Korea’s political climate in that era, hearing the real story from people who experienced it firsthand has given me a deeper understanding of people from different national backgrounds.

My role in the program as a non-professional yoga assistant was to mainly assist the participants who were having difficulty with some body movements. As I am a poor amateur yogi, I probably spent a little too much time observing the instructor and not enough time helping out.

Still, I was glad to see how the participants were gradually revitalized and made improvements little by little.

2018�11��.indd 37

The Author

Originally from Hong Kong, Chloe Chan came to Gwangju for Korean studies and is currently working as global intern at the Gwangju Trauma Center.

November 2018

“MY DAY” – A NEW KIND OF MUTUAL HEALING METHOD “My Day” is a testimony therapy program arranged by the GTC with a state violence sufferer invited to be the main speaker and share what he/she had experienced during the ’80s. Before I participated in the last “My Day” event on September 18, each time I pictured what “talking therapy” was like, I imagined a psychiatrist sitting next to the client, nodding her head and jotting notes during the process; or I imagined it was like Lucy from the Peanuts comics,

I once read, “In order to heal the wounds, you must have the courage to face up to them.” Given how important our inner health is, hopefully readers of the Gwangju News can take reference from the rehabilitation therapies of the GTC and be able to work out a balanced life with peace and self-awareness.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

and programs are offered to the state violence survivors who have experienced horrendous abuses. Yoga therapy is one such program held there.

2018-10-30 �� 12:13:46

38 38

g n o e s k o G n i g Violinaglidin raphed

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

Photog

iding ones Eden J illage Paragl y b n e W r it t Tr a i n V seong k o G y b

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

The author “violinagliding.”

Y

ou’ve heard of skydiving and probably even paragliding, but have you ever heard of “violinagliding”? Probably not, and that’s because I’m pretty sure I made it up.

Oddly, the man we spoke with on the phone wanted to meet in person to discuss the booking, so we asked him to meet us later in the evening, as we wanted to make the most of the daylight.

Back in July of this year, smack dab in the middle of Korea’s record-breaking, sweltering-hot summer, my friends and I decided to take a weekend trip to Gokseong, a trainthemed village about an hour and a half by bus outside of Gwangju. When we arrived, we were surprised to find the village mostly quiet with few tourists around. We could only figure everyone was off at the beaches, and we were happy to have the place to ourselves.

The rest of that day was spent riding Gokseong’s famed rail bikes and then chilling by the river. We were enjoying ourselves so immensely that we stayed out till dark and almost forgot about our meeting with the paragliding guy.

We called him up and, to our surprise, he agreed to meet us there at the river.

When my friends and I saw advertisements for the reasonably priced paragliding experience, there was little debate over whether we should try it. We called up the company and booked spots for the following morning.

2018�11��.indd 38

By the time Paragliding Guy arrived in his adventure vehicle, it was almost too dark to see each other and the mosquitos were out in armies, so we all ended up going to dinner together, which was followed by ice cream, pie, and cards back at the hostel. At some point, the fact that I played the violin was brought up.

2018-10-30 �� 12:13:47

39 “I wonder if anyone has ever paraglided while playing the violin,” I said.

“Now that is an interesting question,” replied one of my friends.

We looked it up on YouTube and, sure enough, someone had done it – in Turkey. This led to our discovery that accordions, guitars, and even a full-length keyboard had been played while paragliding. But as far as we could see, no one had ever played the violin while paragliding in Korea, at least not at Gokseong Train Village Paragliding.

I asked Paragliding Guy whether he’d allow it, half-jokingly.

Paragliding Guy’s face grew thoughtful. Then after a moment, he said, “Let me talk to my guys, and I’ll let you know tomorrow when you come for your session.” We all laughed, and then it was time to call it a night. I went to bed, both nervous and excited at the possibility of what I might have the chance to try the next morning.

In the morning, we arrived at the paragliding office where we filled out liability forms and got suited up in these cool, army-green flight suits that made me feel cooler than Tom Cruise in Top Gun. Paragliding Guy and his team said I could take my violin, and we spent a good amount of time trying to figure out how to attach a GoPro camera to it. The paragliding team seemed just as excited as my friends and I were to try out the experiment.

Giant sport trucks drove us to the top of a mountain that had a rounded plateau that’d been cleared of trees. I was deemed to be the first to go. They strapped a helmet on me, and soon I was clipped into the parachute harness with my flying guide behind me. My flight guide said, “When I

count to three, start running as fast as you can.” I gulped and clutched my fiddle tightly in my right hand. 1… 2….

3… and we ran. Before I could even reach my full speed, the parachute had lifted me and my flying guide into the air. The weightless feeling was more incredible than I could’ve imagined, but the view was even more amazing.

Immediately, I lost any sense of fear. I felt completely safe and incredibly lucky to be there in the air – flying!

After fully taking in that first moment, I lifted my instrument and played. We were circling the takeoff point, and I could see my friends pointing and cheering. What a funny sight I must’ve been. But hey, not too many people can say they’ve paraglided while playing the violin. I felt in that moment that what I was doing was equally cool, ridiculous, and free-spirited. It was one of those moments when you just know you’re enjoying life to the fullest.

And that’s the story of how violinagliding was born. I wonder, what could be next?

GOKSEONG TRAIN VILLAGE PARAGLIDING (곡성 기차마을 패러글라이딩) Address: 42 Deokyang-seowon-gil, Ogok-myeon, Gokseonggun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 곡성군 오곡면 덕양서원길 42

Telephone: 010-5847-7448 Website: http://www.gspara.com/

The Author

Eden has been teaching English in Korea since 2014. Last year she started her Instagram account @violin_everywhere, where she chronicles her many unique adventures with her violin.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

The author playing the fiddle after landing.

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40 Gwangju Writes

Gwangju Lyric

ARTS & & CULTURE CULTURE ARTS

Written by Saul Latham Photographed by Wilson Melbostad

▲ View atop of Gwangju’s majestic Mudeung Mountain.

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November 2018

wangju, aren’t you glad you’re here.

Gwangju, Gwangju, the Jurassic rocks sing, on top where the trees swing, stop and you may see this city sea on these islands in the rough urban sprawl. A sediment sentiment in the cemeteries below, shouldered by towered human nests, screwed into the rocky past. Gwangju, turn your eyes to your rivers, streams, to the mountains and gleams, to the sun’s beams. Tilt your ears to Seu-mi, who’s on in Suwon, fingering the piano amidst a harmony of a hearty vernacular.

Blue in the sky, red kimchi, and eating alone. Maroon leaves as browns arrive, and the dusk dreams with its people. Autumn makes its sound as old life falls to the ground. Eternity in transit vanishes. Ephemeral feelings are found, around lakes, folk bound and smell the trees drifting to a doze, as the sun throws shadows, long, tired shadows, so pretty and fleeting, stretching like Joseon children, yawning, rubbing Joseon eyes.

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Jangseong sings about the dam at Damyang, and yeh Naju, Hwasun, and Bitgaram did. All the while, a simple man enjoys a simple plain rice, and an old farmer pushes carrots in a pram. Apples, dried peppers, dried fish and chatter, chips and flattery; batteries charge in the PC bang-bang-pow, a GS25 dash dodging bags of trash on zebra stripes rosied by rain and red lights, reflecting sights of deals, crabs, cabs, cash, and tinted windows. Corners are cut, fish hung outside Olive Young, and the same song playing over and over in the bedding shop.

In the cafes some jazz plays, bibimbap-bap do we hot or cold, my friend kimchi. Sing a song cinnamon, in Hangul would you please, free me of my tongue. Swish English wished bub-eyed like fish in the tank outside, always traveling yet always here. I’m told it’s getting cold, so hot please. I’m not sold on those plastic cups. Give me some china.

Korean red blues, choose a green go-go, go Chungjangro, row row your float of waffles in the wind. Sow your row of lies, clothes, sneakers, and bags, see the sneakers and barbeque sauce dags and notice the beautiful artistry

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41 of the homeless actor in rags. Like a knight, he comes questioning all you do Chungjang-ro; a messiah of rags, no tags, no flags, only quiet imagination and action; a life of meaning, streaming on, gleaming with truth. I stared at you staring at him. I judged you judging him. I caught myself and turned, bumping into a mannequin or two, sharing the trip with the few. We learned.

Mudeung-san’s father must’ve been grand.

A taxi driver with hair reaching halfway down his back.

He’s got the cool speed sunnies. He’s dressed completely in green like Dooly or Yoshi and has white gloves like Luigi. The emerald of the city, a kind of site tourists can’t dream of. “Unam-dong?” – “Unam-dong?” – “Neh, Unam 3-dong, juse – yo!” – “Yo, let’s sing along to Lee Moon-sae.”

Books in Buk-gu are read and yellow, being left by the rest for dead. Still living and resting; now testing in the company of a forest, not too far from chicken and beer, or a tea at home. Oh tonight, autumn’s autonomous rustle turns up howls in typhoon’s streets. It’s all a friendly reminder of shelter’s warmth and a lover’s palm.

A Tasmanian writer of words and music, Saul Latham currently lives in Gwangju and is a big fan of free time. The best thing he’s ever done is to run.

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November 2018

The Author

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On the corner of one street and another, a young man throws his cigarette pack in the gutter and lights his fag of death in an empty prayer. Unam-dong, what’s wrong with the old lady picking it up out of the gutter? She’s already halfway to the ground with her troubled back bones.

Gwangju, she’s stuck in mortal bow; bowing to all as she sweeps the streets. I saw the young not see.

ARTS & CULTURE

The Shinse-guys, men cured with girls, haircuts, curls, or in blue suits, with pictures of fruits and English lines on shirts of friends, eomma, oppa, Olleh, what’d you say to a buffet, or you wanna see a movie? 201 Gwangju News, CBS, MBC, competing views, Kakao notification, unable to choose a destination, to know what to show or what to see. Gimbap and traffic rolling chamchi and words, in wheels of seaweed, it feels like we need. Old government housing, rained on, blown on, yelled in, loved in, slept in, and dreamed out of, onto a wallpaper sky sitting behind other blocks more bright and less realistic than any manmade recreation. Perhaps a ramyeon, a latte, or a spa when Lotte closes. No, Gwangju must get its beauty sleep.

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42

The Morning Calm of Ink Wash Written and photographed by Saul Latham

beneath the white water of cultural waves, sumuk-hwa can only go with the force, rolling and spinning, and sometimes rearing its head out into the open. At the 2018 Jeollanamdo International Sumuk Biennale, sumuk-hwa was offered to the world. Who was looking?

It’s the first day of autumn, and I’ve come down to Mokpo for the opening of the Biennale. The Mokpo Culture and Arts Center sits on the water’s edge, part of an impressive

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November 2018

ARTS & & CULTURE CULTURE ARTS

K

orea’s morning calm is drifting. Excited by the power and speed of international currents, Korea floats on the lips of new technological waves, wrestling, like many other cultures, with a whitewash of postmodernity and globalization. On the face of it, the veneer of Korea’s cultural identity sometimes seems thin.

Traditions have been peeled away or lay stitched in behind new alternatives. Sumuk-hwa (수묵화, ink wash painting) is one such tradition of Korean culture. Submerged

Silhouette amidst animated ink.

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43 cultural belt that includes the Natural History Museum and Maritime Museum, amongst others. Surrounding this belt are typically majestic Korean hills that offer views from below and above. There’s a whole heap to do and see here, if only I had a few more hours – but I’m here for the sumuk-hwa.

I’m here to learn what I can about sumuk-hwa and the Korea of old and new. So, making my way to the venue, I try to keep in mind the privilege of my position. As a legal alien in this graceful country, an Australian in Mokpo, I wish to respect traditional culture, modern perspectives, and diversity of thought. As a writer, however, I must write with the freedom of responsibility and to express what I see as being important.

Sumuk-hwa literally means “water-inkpainting.” The Korean form is created using traditional materials and techniques of East Asia. Works are usually made on silk or hanji (한지) paper using brushes, and often with black ink diluted with water. Some time ago, sumuk-hwa became known for the selfcultivation and expression of Koreans. Is it still known as such, today?

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The scope of Korean sumuk-hwa has branched out from historical subgenres into ever-changing new ones. Historically, the main subgenres were gunjeong, jiyeong, and munin (literati painting). Realism in sumukhwa came from the landscape paintings of the gunjeong and jiyeong schools. Munin was practiced mainly by the yangban (양반), a scholarly ruling class of the Joseon period.

During the mid-17th century, the Silhak (실학) movement – a pragmatic and progressive Korean Confucian reformation – converged with munin, moving it towards more abstract ideals with a distinct Korean refinement. This era defined Korean sumuk-hwa with the help of prominent figures such as Kim Jeong-hui.

Today, the strokes of the art continue to evolve in color and black ink.

On level two, my attention is grabbed by Cho Yeong-baek’s masterful classical painting of a town set amongst misty hills. With skill, the artist envelopes an eternal morning calm atmosphere from somewhere in the back of my subconsciousness. To say that it reminds me of something that once hung at my grandmother’s house is a downright slap in the face of such quality, but I really feel a strong connection to this painting.

Sumuk-hwa doesn’t just seek a mere representation of form. It aims to uncover the essence of energy, the movement of life,

November 2018

On the other side of the room, a folding screen plots black sumuk-hwa mountains in front of a see-through sky. Geometric shadows fall behind with uniform beauty. In the corner, sheets of transparent film suspend from the ceiling, filed one in front of the other. On them, black shapes are layered out into a space multiplied by the movement of light through the work. A hazy atmospheric horizon is imagined. The sheets of film are spectacularly

On the first floor of the building, light falls from above as I walk through the central atrium. A central staircase puts old and young folk onto any of the three levels of the exhibition. Massive ink prints dangle from the ceiling to the floor. I follow my nose and round the corner to the first exhibition space, where the abstract minimalism of Seo Yong-ju is shown beside the romantic minimalism of ink done by Lim Hyeon-nak and the meticulous designs of Jo Jung-seong. There’s even alienesque heads isolated in small elliptical pieces

by Kim Jung-wook. The range of style is wider than I’d imagined. Already, I’m wondering what the parameters of sumuk-hwa are, and I’m more confused about the state of this art.

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Upon entry, to my left is a large projection of animated sumuk-hwa layers. I stand in front of the moving images, my silhouette cast amongst the changing contours. Nearby, four screens display multimedia works by the same artist, Lee Lee-nam. At a blank white screen, a round viewing utensil leads my eye into a scene where another animated sumuk-hwa is revealed. A man looks out over valleys and mountains. I’m carried through an atmospheric gray-toned landscape and over trees and mountain peaks to a woman in period dress holding an umbrella. The piece exudes a calm and peaceful aura. The land of the morning calm is touched.

transformed, with subtle bending refractions and bright reflections granting the beholder a rich encounter from any perspective. The artist is Jin Hyun-mi.

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44

Lee In’s sumuk-hwa Young Multiverse.

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November 2018

the expression of growth and change, spirit and vitality.

These themes are picked up in the 3rd Exhibition Hall.

Kim Ho-deuk’s unhesitant thick dashes of inked lines produce a powerful energy in a strong traditional style.

Seong So-ryun’s application of water transforms his paper medium into an embossed and brooding visualization of a mountainous landscape. Ghost-like characters are mixed with calligraphy and loose strokes in Gang Gungo’s spacious and lighthearted spook, painted on plywood.

ink fill Chinese artist Li Guanping’s canvas with softly fixed simplicity, while Zaho Baoping shows a lighthearted comic-book-styled series subjecting domesticity, humanity, and daily life to the brush. In Nebula Series No. 4, JiZi takes the sumuk-hwa style into outer space with a less traditional approach somewhere within Western Realism.

Over centuries, Korea, China, and Japan have owned and cultivated the meditative qualities of sumuk-hwa and its sibling styles. Sumuk-hwa has existed in dialogue with the values and aesthetics of these cultures, both directing culture and borrowing from it. As modernity brought Western art to the shores of Asia, the traditions of sumukhwa were challenged. This process still continues today.

The essence of sumuk-hwa is to give force and spirit to the lines through the brush. Traditionally, calligraphy and painting weren’t separated. Modern sumuk-hwa shares the pursuit of literary and figurative forms with older traditions. Yet, the processes and outcomes of these lines are determined by more than just ink, paper, and the brain’s hand. Hands now work through the emerging brains of computers. Mediums diverge further into experiments.

The 5th Exhibition Hall compares the evolution of sumuk-hwa by showing works from all three countries.

The variety is obvious, but a particular national style is hard to pinpoint from my uneducated perspective. What does stand out to me is Kira Yoshi’s Shouhukugassen, a cartoon-like depiction of an altercation between a cat and a fish. In the work of Korean Ga Eon-jong, classicism is maintained and extended, with finely detailed line work depicting three large entangled jungle trees. Pink dots of

Once upon a time, sumuk-hwa was the measure of one’s intellect and character. As the heart composed the brush and the brain measured ink, the eyes restrained the hand and the lungs steadied the wrist; the artist was close to his/her work. I suspect this was/is the heart of sumukhwa. What relationship is left between the artist and the work in forms that don’t demand this same process? These days, we do a lot of scrolling and clicking. Expressions from the hand are lost to the might of human endeavor.

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45 Meaning is made, lost, and turned upside down by the zeitgeist. I wonder about the hard lines of sumuk-hwa – have they become too soft? What would the Joseonperiod artists think of these new approaches? How far can an art form change before it becomes something else?

Lines are important.

It’s now nearly five o’clock. I bid the friendly folk goodbye with my minimal Korean. One assures me he’ll see me next time. I jump on the bus, and it appears I’m the first passenger. Then, as the door shuts and the driver asks “Gwangju?” I realize I’m the only passenger. He hands me the television remote control.

On the top floor, I’m met with color – reds, turquoise, gold, and yellow. Hul Jin’s modern take on sumuk-hwa depicts an abstracted horse, an elephant, a car, and people.

The dotted approach reminds me of the traditional style made famous by Australian indigenous peoples. I circle the floor perimeter and come to what seems to be a very important piece.

I wonder about Korea, about Korean art like sumukhwa, about the economics of all this. I feel a bit special and a bit sad being on the bus alone. “Where are all the sumuk-hwa-lovers?” I think with naivety, ignorance, and justification. Where are the artists? Maybe they’re at home in their own heads, in studios, or on the island-like mountains that spring out above Korea’s cityscape. I hope sumuk-hwa isn’t being eroded by the intensity of global progress and cultural transformation. I’m hoping Koreans can keep traditions like sumuk-hwa above the water.

Outside of the exhibition, I’m fumbling with objects in my bag when a man asks if I need assistance. “I’m looking for the second exhibition space.” He kindly helps and points out that there is a free shuttle bus leaving Mokpo for Gwangju at five o’clock. I come upon the participatory part of the exhibition. I sit down next to some elementary children and attempt my own sumuk-hwa. Attempting to imitate the old-school hands, I brush mountains, trees, and a river on the hanji paper. My picture comes out alright, but I’ve applied too much dark ink. The children next to me are experts, copying faces and shapes from their phones with ease. I feel like a child – and that’s okay.

The Author

Saul is a Tasmanian based in Gwangju who can’t get enough of kimchi mandu (김치만두). His job is to teach, but his work is to write. When freed of these, he constructs MIDI compositions on the computer, tries different flavored milk, or goes for a walk.

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November 2018

Unlocking a new perspective.

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ARTS && CULTURE CULTURE ARTS

46 Photo Essay

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November 2018

Participants gather for the celebration of Gwangju News’ 200th issue.

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Gwangju News 200th Issue Celebration Written by Wilson Melbostad Photographed by Kim Tae-hyeong and Anne Forbes

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47

Audience members were treated to quite a show!

Among the event exhibits was a timeline of the different Gwangju News covers from over the years.

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The Author

Wilson Melbostad is an international human rights attorney hailing from San Francisco, California. Wilson has returned to Gwangju to undertake his newest project: the Organization for Migrant Legal Aid (OMLA), which operates out of the Gwangju International Center. He has also taken on the position of managing editor of the Gwangju News.

November 2018

With that being said, in terms of our goals for the next 100 issues, we at the Gwangju News will continue to make a concerted effort to include our readership in more of

our activities. Since we are a magazine for all people in Gwangju, we are trying to think of ways to better serve our whole community. If you or someone you know are interested in writing, taking photos, or volunteering in any sort of capacity, let this serve as an open invitation to get involved. Please feel free to reach out at gwangjunews@ gic.or.kr Thanks again to you all!

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O

n October 5th, residents of Gwangju, Jeollanamdo, and beyond came together in the 1st floor GIC hall to celebrate the publication of the Gwangju News’ 200th issue (for those who missed it, please feel free to stop by the GIC to pick up your own copy). The event was attended by a consortium of folks, which included GN volunteers and some of our most loyal readers and writers from over the years. Though the turnout was much larger than expected, we at the Gwangju News wanted to make sure that we conveyed the true message of the event: a heartfelt thanks to you the reader. It is your critical participation that keeps this publication afloat and it is your support that enables us to continue to serve as a voice for those in Gwangju and the surrounding region.

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ARTS & CULTURE

48

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November 2018

An audience member records one of the memorable muscial acts, the local choir group Cantiamo.

▶ Members of the present and past Gwangju News Editorial Teams gather for a group photo.

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49

GIC Director and Gwangju News Publisher Shin Gyong-gu recognizes the achievements of former Gwangju News editor-in-chief and long-time contributor, Dr. Robert Grotjohn.

Musical performance by the Dreamers.

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November 2018

Dr. David Shaffer, current Gwangju News editor-in-chief and GIC board chair, addresses the crowd.

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50

Photo of the Month

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November 2018

ARTS & CULTURE

By Tobias Hills

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51

A

September birthday weekend in Yeosu offered minimal time to get away for some scenic photography. Fortunately, I managed to sneak away and do some debatable trespassing on a relatively inaccessible beach. It provided a handful of nice shots of the surrounding scenery.

After a rather tumultuous end to my summer, the tranquil scene offered a small bit of personal calm. I remained there for a bit of time, just absorbing the setting, before snapping a few pictures and returning to the noisy revelry of the weekend.

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November 2018

Tobias Hills is among many English teachers who have found a home in Gwangju. Toby made his way to Korea from Toledo, Ohio, in July 2017 and has become a well-known member of the community. He’s usually found frolicking through Daein Market discovering food spots when not doing photography, teaching, or writing.

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The Author

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52 Korean Culture

Embrace the Autumn Mood at Cart Bars

P

eople who live in Korea can no longer brag about the balance of the country’s four distinct seasons like they used to. Both the summer and winter climates have intensified, and as a consequence, the seasons of spring and fall have either shortened or became more vague. Judging from the fact that Korea gets its worst concentration of yellow and fine dust in its troposphere during springtime, autumn remains the best season for outside activities. Besides the autumn foliage in Korea – the Korean cliché of what fall offers – there is a place where you can be swept away by the autumn atmosphere only at this time of the year. It is at pojang-macha (포장마차) or cart bars.

Strictly put, cart bars are distinguished from other street vendors by their menus. Street vendors with mobile carts or wagons are more commonly referred to as jangsu (장수), meaning “vender” or “merchant.” They typically offer foods like stuffed sugar pancakes called hotteok or fishshaped pastries known as bungeo-ppang. Cart bars, by contrast, usually offer alcohol beverages like soju. Another

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November 2018

ARTS & CULTURE

Written by Cho Namhee

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distinction is that venders are seasonal, but cart bars are open all year round.

Dozens of cart bars in groups were commonly seen in every neighborhood in the early 2000s. However, issues related to hygiene and tax evasion triggered the need for the stronger implementation of rules and policies on street vendors, and thus, many of them have discontinued operation after the frequent crackdowns organized by the government. In other words, the cart bars and vendors we see on the streets now are running their businesses more legitimately than those of the past.

Pojang-macha used to symbolize the struggles of living in Korea. The cheap food and beverages sold at these cart bars attracted people with light wallets, especially those who could only afford a bottle of soju and the complimentary soup or snacks served on the side. Moreover, often the people who could not afford the rent for an indoor business started off with a cheap mobile cart. These scenes began to appear more in Korean soap operas and gained the sympathy of audiences in the past. Now, they give visitors a retro feeling.

Cart bars typically open in the evening and stay open until late at night. The mildness of the autumn season and the atmosphere surrounding the outdoor bars at night will mesmerize you completely. They are best enjoyed with good friends and some drinks. The very last pack of pojangmacha can be found at Gwangju Park near the Gwangju Stream. Nobody knows when they will disappear, but their days are likely numbered.

The Author

Cho Namhee, an over-zealous sports fan, is a free spirit who calls Gwangju home. He studies communications at Chonnam National University and works for the 18th FINA World Championships, Gwangju 2019.

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Book Review

53

“i tell the truth” The Colour of Milk

by Nell Leyshon Written by Kristy Dolson

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No. It is no longer enough to inspire sympathy in your audience. That sympathy must lead to action. We are finally, finally seeing that action with the Me Too movement and the accusers coming forward against men like Kavanaugh. In the novel, Mary likewise recounts in her own words what happens to her after the pastor’s wife takes ill and the pastor pays her father to send one of his four daughters up to be a live-in nursemaid and companion for the dying woman. Because she was born with a deformed leg, Mary is the least useful around the farm and thus the one chosen for the position. Personally, I appreciated that Mary’s state of mind is not deliberately ambiguous. Unlike the protagonists of Atwood and Kent, Mary harbors no indecision or false piety as she tells her story. She knows what happened, and more than that: She wants others to know it, too. Could this be the beginning of a new era for female protagonists? I hope so.

In this short but unique novel, we are told a familiar story in an unconventional way. Mary belongs to a poor farming family, and during the events of the book, she learns to read and write. Her informal education is

November 2018

These days, more and more female authors are taking on these narratives in order to reframe abused women and the consequences for challenging social mores in a more sympathetic light. Alias Grace by Margaret Atwood, Burial Rites by Hannah Kent, and The Colour of Milk

by Nell Leyshon are just three examples of this kind of narrative. The focus of this review will be on the latter because I read it most recently and it has the smallest page count – thus making it a perfect book to get in during

the homestretch of 2018. But of course, I also highly recommend the books by Atwood and Kent, should you find your interest piqued and have some spare time in your schedule. But despite the gender of the authors, the consequences faced by the protagonists remain the same: Only the reader’s sympathy changes. Is this enough?

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Well, a lot of it has to do with the narratives we tell about men and women in situations of sexual abuse, and specifically those stories that examine the consequences faced by women who have the nerve to challenge their abusers and the greater society, which dictates proper behavior. For a long, long time, these narratives were written by men, and these consequences were written as morally just, with the women cast as wicked seductresses who got what they deserved. In other words, they were cautionary tales – for women.

ARTS & CULTURE

I

n my native land of Canada, after the family dinner of Thanksgiving and the festivities of Halloween have passed, November arrives somber and reserved.

This year, I can think of nothing more sobering than the recent nomination and appointment of Brett Kavanaugh to the highest court of law in the USA, despite multiple accusations of sexual assault brought against him. In the Me Too era, how could this happen?

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54 reflected in the lack of proper sentence structure and capitals for proper nouns, the beginning of sentences, and even the “I” pronoun throughout the novel. At first, this strikes the reader as odd and persists as a stumbling block to the reading process, but with time the mind becomes accustomed to it, and reading becomes smoother. This symbolizes how difficult it may be for others to understand someone else’s perspective, but it is possible when we make an effort. This is a vital book to read if we want to make an effort to improve our empathy and to open a dialogue about women’s experiences in the Me Too era.

The media coverage surrounding the Kavanaugh hearings continually asked, “Are the accusers ‘credible?’ Can their memories be trusted? Are they telling the truth?” In university, I was taught to think critically about whether a protagonist was a “reliable narrator,” but now I think it hardly matters whether she is reliable. The question we should be asking is “What are the consequences if we don’t believe her?” This is a particularly disturbing question to consider because the answers will affect another generation of men and women, and will have far-reaching consequences across the globe for decades to come.

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November 2018

When will we start to question an individual’s humanity over her reliability? When will suffering speak louder than lack of evidence? Can we solve social problems with increased empathy? I have a lot of questions and very few answers. And I am honestly terrified for the future of Western culture – driven for so long by the USA – which continues to place men and women in such blatant opposition over issues of sexual abuse. But I have always been an optimist at heart, and I have to keep the faith that the narrative can and will be changed. It begins now, with listening to victims and believing their stories. As Mary herself writes: “if i was not telling you the truth why would i have told you any of it?”

Why indeed?

The Author

(Photo by Lisa Crone)

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Kristy Dolson lived in South Korea for five years before taking a year off to travel, read, and spend time with her family in Canada and Australia. She holds a Bachelor of Education and has just moved to Yeosu, where she splits her time between teaching at the new Jeollanamdo International Education Institute and reading as much as she can.

Why U.S. Citizens in Korea Should Vote in the Midterm Elections Written by Michael Goonan

“Register to vote, because if you don’t, there’s going to be people changing your life in a way that you won’t enjoy.”

– Frank Zappa

Y

ou traveled thousands of miles away from home to “the land of the morning calm.”

You’ve been here a year (or five), and every time you catch a glimpse of the latest news from back home, you’re reminded of what you don’t miss about life in America. The adversarial ugliness, the endless partisanship, the rapid degradation of civility, and the reality show-style drama that seems to have taken over.

If all of this makes you more secure in your decision to be in Korea and thus away from it all, you’re not alone.

But here’s the thing: Just because you have the privilege and opportunity to be away from it all doesn’t mean that other people do. Forty percent of Americans don’t even have a passport. I grant you, many of these people simply lack interest in the outside world. There are many, however, who’d love to be able to experience a year abroad, but it’s out of reach for them. Maybe they couldn’t afford to go to college or take a TEFL

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Opinion course. Maybe a family member is sick, and the family lacks adequate insurance to pay the medical bills, so they need to be around to provide financial support.

Actually, you might not be as immune as you think you are to the effects of what happens in Washington. Do you have student loans? Will you be alive during the next 50 years to experience the accelerating effects of climate change? Do you want to continue to be able to visit other countries visafree or with an easy visa process? Do you ever want to have the option of returning to an America where you can earn a decent living with your expensive sociology degree? If you answered yes to any of these questions, you need to vote.

Particularly in today’s political climate of increasing nativism and turning inward, the voices of U.S. citizens who live abroad need to be heard in the political process.

We know through first-hand experience what it’s like to be immigrants or non-native residents of another country.

Further, we have a unique understanding of how various programs operate in other countries, such as universal healthcare, employee pensions, and public education.

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The Author

Michael Goonan teaches English at Nampyeong Elementary School in Naju. Originally from Scranton, Pennsylvania, he’s also lived in the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Australia, and the Netherlands. He blogs about travel, culture, politics, and more at www.adventuresofmike.net.

November 2018

“OK, FINE! I guess I can’t argue with you anymore. I’ll vote.

Do these old bureaucrats at least make it possible to vote online?” The answer is a qualified yes. Some states have, in fact, joined the 21st century and make it possible to send in

For more information about voting in the U.S. midterm elections, please visit the Federal Voting Assistance Program at fvap.gov. They streamline the process and make it easy and painless. If it is past your state’s deadline to apply for an absentee ballot, or you have applied but have not received it yet, you can send in the federal write-in absentee ballot here: https://www.fvap.gov/uploads/FVAP/ Forms/fwab2013.pdf

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The vast majority of U.S. expats living in Korea are part of the millennial generation. While millennials are now the largest voting-age demographic in America, they still have the worst voter turnout of any generation. According to Pew Research, only 49% of millennials voted in the 2016 election, while 63% of Generation X, 69% of Baby Boomers, and 70% of the Silent and Greatest Generations voted.

This means that our parents and grandparents are making decisions about our future. If we want to see change take place on issues of importance to our generation, we need to make our voices heard in the political process. Let’s not add to the problem of low millennial voter turnout; let’s be part of the solution.

your absentee ballot via email. Other states still require you to send it in via snail mail, but you can download and print a PDF of the ballot online. The U.S. Embassy and Consulate will send your ballot back to the U.S. for free if you send it in at least three weeks before the election. If you’re more of a last-minute person, don’t sweat it. Most states allow you to apply for your absentee ballot just 7–10 days before Election Day, and a few even allow you to apply the day before the election. The whole process can usually be done online, and your vote will be counted as long as your ballot is received by Election Day.

OPINION

Now you’re thinking: “Yeah, okay. But U.S. expats are such a small minority of the electorate. Why am I going to go to the trouble of getting and mailing an absentee ballot?” Actually, the U.S. expatriate community is quite large and could have a huge influence on the results of the election. The U.S. State Department estimates that there are currently nine million American citizens living abroad.

This is comparable to the population of New Jersey, the 11th most populous state in the union. This means that the U.S. expat community is larger than 39 of the 50 states.

That’s quite significant and has particular potential to make waves in crucial swing states.

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Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community?

The Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce club activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide families and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers. Also, you can contact Kim Young-im at 062-434-9887 or email konacenter@gmail.com.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

November 2018

VOLUNTEER TEACHERS NEEDED for the Gwangju UCC (Universal Cultural Center). English teachers in the Gwangju area for 2018 with any level of experience are welcome to participate. UCC has a Facebook profile if you would like to see what kind of other services are available. To participate in the international cultural exchange programs, you may email peter.j.gallo@gmail. com or phone or text 010-9490-4258.

GWANGJU FILIPINO ENGLISH TEACHERS (GFET) Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., GIC, Room 3 (2F) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular lectures and accent training to help fellow English teachers to become better educators.

GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook.

SUNDAY YOGA WITH EMILY Every Sunday, 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., GIC 1F Donation is encouraged.

Welcome all levels!

Facebook: Gwangju Yoga with Emily NOVEMBER – DECEMBER GIC KOREAN CLASS 6 November – 22 December * 6:30 p.m. – 8:30 p.m. Tuesday or Thursday * 10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Saturday Tuition Fee: 130,000 won (GIC Members: 110,000 won) Detail: www.eng.goc.or.kr ADVANCED KOREAN STUDY THROUGH NEWSPAPER ARTICLES Fridays 10:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. (Nov. 9th – Dec. 7th) Textbook: Newspaper handout Tuition Fee: 90,000 won (GIC Member: 70,000 won) * This class is designed for TOPIK level 6 or KIIP level 5 or higher level.

Inquiry: Minjae Kim (mj@gic.or.kr) POEMS WANTED! Professor Marcy Tanter teaches American, English and Korean literature at Tarleton State University in Stephenville, Texas. To mark the 40th anniversary of the Gwangju Uprising and to help spread knowledge of the event beyond Korea, she is editing an anthology of poems written by Koreans and translated into English; she is working with the GIC on this project. She has found about 20 poems online but she is seeking more. If you know of any poems that should be included, please contact her. If you are a poet whose work has been translated or if you have poems you would like to have translated, please get in touch. Her email is tanter@tarleton.edu.

CHINESE-KOREAN LANGUAGE EXCHANGE GIC Lounge, 1st Floor, 6:30–8:30 p.m., Wednesday Application: https://goo.gl/WjBZQQ The language exchange is casual, and you can turn up when you like. Welcome to bring and invite friends.

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Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes.

We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee

former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

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