(EN) Gwangju News December 2012 #130

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM Page 1

December 2012 Issue No. 130

On The Cover:

Tran Trong Toan Vietnamese Ambassador for Korea

Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear A Chat with the Film’s Director

Hold On Tight!

Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM Page 2

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Advertise with Gwangju News!

Gwangju News is the longest-running English magazine in Korea. Its print and online versions bring Gwangju to the world.

Target your customers by advertising with us. Gwangju News Print and Online receive more than 30,000 readership in just six months!

Contact us for more details: 062-226-2733 or e-mail us to karina@gic.or.kr

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Gwangju News is looking for enthusiastic individuals who would like to join the magazine.

Currently we are looking for these positions: Chief Proofreaders, Proofreaders and In-house Photographers If interested, please contact us for more details: gwangjunews@gmail.com

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December 2012 www.gwangjunewsgic.com

ON THE COVER

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher: Shin Gyonggu GWANGJU NEWS PRINT Editors: Kathleen Villadiego, Kim Minsu Assistant Editor: Stephen Redeker Creative Consultant: Warren Parsons Copy Editors: Darren Bean, Vanessa Cisneros, Heather Douglas, Michael Moak, Jon Ozelton, Bradley Weiss Coordinators: Karina Prananto, Jung Jayeon Layout Designer: Karina Prananto Photo Editor: Matt Furlane Proofreaders: Megan Batal, Gian-Marco Bussandri, Erin Hamayda, Jon Ozelton, Samantha Richter, Eva Ryan, Pete Schandall, Andrew Sweeney. Special thanks to Jessica Keralis Researchers: Kang Heera, Choi Minyoung, Jo Ara, Park Soyoung

GWANGJU NEWS ONLINE Editor: Maeve Storey Technical Manager: Carl Hedinger Assistant Site Administrator: Nathan Fulkerson Arts Editor: Andrea Edwards Features Editors: BreeAnn Cowger, C. Adam Volle Media Editor: David Cowger Food Editor: Rani Cheema Travel Editor: BreeAnn Cowger Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Address: Jeon-il Building 5F, Geumnam-ro 1-1, Dong-gu, Gwangju 501-758, South Korea Phone: +82-62-226-2733~4 Fax: +82-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com E-mail: gwangjunews@gmail.com Registration No.: 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Logos (Phone +82-62-444-8800)

Publication Date: November 28, 2012 Gwangju News is a monthly English magazine written and edited by volunteers. We welcome your contributions for proofreading, copy editing, administration, layout/design and distribution. Please write to gwangjunews@gmail.com and tell us your area of interest.

Cover Photo: Tran Trong Toan Photographer: Christian Oey

features 12

Good Afternoon, Vietnam

By C. Adam Volle Ambassador Tran was invited to Gwangju to share his ideas and views on relationships between Vietnam and Korea.

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Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear

By Rachel Redfern The film Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear attracted worldwide attention at this year’s Gwangju International Film Festival. Read the interview with the film’s director Anne Gyrithe Bonne, on the reason why she made it.

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.

Copyright by the Gwangju International Center.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise - without the written consent of the publishers.

Gwangju News welcomes letters to the editor (gwangjunews@gmail.com) regarding articles and issues. Articles and submissions may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

CORRECTIONS On November 2012 issue page 24-25, the photos were taken by Jannies Le. The publication date of November 2012 issue was on October 26, 2012

Gwangju News December 2012

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contents community

travel

24

26

19

Adopt a Child for Christmas 2012/ Daniel Lister

24

Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing/ Shay Meinecke

38

Browsing Through Aladin Bookstore/ Gabriel Ward

45

Wonder Place/ Lee Hyemin

regular

26 Gyeongju: a Mini Break to the Shilla Kingdom/ Andrea Edwards

32 Angkor: Jewel in the Crown of Cambodia/ Carl Hedinger

health

50

28

Local News This Month in Gwangju

By Carl Hedinger

8

Upcoming Events

22 Photo Essay Munsusa

By Doug Stuber 35 Home Pages

30 GIC Tour Annual Review/ Warren Parsons

food and drink

7

40 Language Study For Your ELT Bookshelf

By Dr. Dave Shaffer 42 Literature Selected Poems by Moon In-soo Translated by Song Chae-Pyong and Anne Rashid 44 Literature A Very Short Collection of Poetry

By Ashe Middleton 46 Fashion Fash-on with xxl jjdp: My Favorite Fall Things By jjdp

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Tequilaz Mexican Restaurant: The perfect place to start a Saturday night/ Andrew Sweeney

50

Taisho/ Gabriel Ward

51

Sautéed Squid with Hot Pepper Paste/ Jo Ara

28

Revitalize at Damyang Spa/ Doug Stuber

36

A History and Use of Ondol: Korea’s Traditional Heating System/ Andrew Sweeney

52

48 Culture Korean Ghost: Fishin’ for Gwishin

By Stephen Redeker 54 Community Board

Squat, Don’t Sit/ Kristal Lee

Gwangju News December 2012

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Editorial It's the end of yet another year, a time when many look back, reflect, and perhaps consider what they can be grateful for. There are a number of things on my list, and as the Gwangju News (GN) Editor, I'm very grateful to all our volunteers, the coordinators at the GIC and for the support of our readers.

I'm thankful to all the writers and poets who have allowed us to be the platform through which they can keep our readers informed, share their experiences and express their creativity. I'm amazed by our new team of highly dedicated copy-editors and our growing list of reliable proofreaders many of whom have been with us for a long time and are irreplaceable. Darren Bean, who I consider our head copy-editor, has revolutionized our style guide and has been the driving force for better standards.

It's not just the words that make up our magazine. I'm grateful to all the photographers for providing us with some very awe-inspiring images, and to our outgoing judge, Mark Eaton for his careful selections. Much appreciation goes to Matt Furlane, our new photo editor who has seamlessly stepped into his role.

I'd also like to thank our creative director, Warren Parsons, for steering us toward new heights, and our assistant editor, Stephen Redeker for keeping us strong and steady.

Although our coordinators work for the GIC, they dedicate so much time supporting all of us who volunteer for GN. Jung Jayeon's enthusiasm for the magazine is happily infectious. Karina Prananto, who also does our layout and design, is the reason why people say GN looks so professional. Karina has always been, and forever will be, integral to the magazine. None of this is possible without the continual support of our publisher, Dr. Shin and his pearls of wisdom.

It's not always smooth sailing, and we do at times make mistakes. However, the need to learn and do better doesn't go away. We at GN hope we can continue to deliver a magazine that you want to pick up, read and enjoy.

Thank you, Kathleen Villadiego

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This Month in Gwangju A brief roundup of news stories from in and around Gwangju

By Carl Hedinger The Concerts at Pungam Lake Close for Winter The final curtain came down on the Pungam Lake Concerts for 2012 at the beginning of last month (November 3). Seo-gu's District Office put on these concerts to provide local residents with a nice backdrop to the relaxing atmosphere at the lake every Saturday starting in April. To keep up an eclectic mix, 25 different groups have represented pop, dance music, Korean traditional percussion music and instrumental ensembles throughout the year. An average crowd of 500 came to each show with a total of 13,000 people enjoying the entire series this year.

Due to increased participation from residents, artists and members of amateur clubs, 13 extra concerts were held on weekdays this year. This series was the only one held every Saturday in Gwangju and contributed to a rebirth of local music and satisfied the residents' growing demand for a cultural outlet.

According to one Seo-gu official, “These small concerts present the joy of becoming one with nature.

Because this year's concerts were so popular, the music will continue in 2013.” For those interested in playing next year, contact Seo-gu Office Culture and Sports Division at 062-360-7596 for more details.

Photo courtesy of Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall

Mt. Mudeung Yellow Bus Goes into Hibernation The City announced the suspension of the Yellow Bus that runs around Mt. Mudeung at the end of November.

It will resume service in March 2013 but has stopped service for the upcoming winter. At the announcement city officials cited the risks of accidents during the winter and low demand as reason to suspend winter service.

Service will resume in March. When it picks back up the bus will run every weekend starting from Gwangju Station. Notable stops along the way are Chungjangsa, Soswaewon and Jeungsimsa. In all, there are 23 stops and it takes 2 1/2 hours at a cost of 2,000 won. A tour guide also tags along for the ride to provide commentary (Korean) with folktales, history and hiking routes of Mt. Mudeung.

Photo courtesy of Seo-gu Office, Gwangju Metropolitan City

Free Library in Pungam Lake Open for Business Our next story takes us back to Pungam Lake, where the Seogu District Office has announced that an unsupervised library has opened for residents. This will serve as the only library of its kind in Gwangju and is said to be available year-round for everyone. This library contains around 300 titles including children's books, essays, novels, etc. Seo-gu is taking donations from residents to help promote the materials available at the library and to spread the culture of sharing. Donations can be made through Seo-gu Office Culture Sports Division or the Eco-Learning Library. Another way is to personally add to the list of donations by simply leaving books at the library. A Seo-gu official said that he “hopes residents will use this library and make it a precious place where people can meet through books.” Buses no. 45, 47, 59, 71, 75, 78 go to Pungam Reservoir (풍암저수지).

International Astronomy Olympiad 2012, Korea Wins First Place The 17th International Astronomy Olympiad was held at the Honam Small Business Training Institute and Korea took first prize with three gold, one silver, and two bronze medals with all representative students receiving prizes. In this year's tournament 93 students from 22 countries took part, and after the final medal tally, Russia finished second and Romania came in third place respectively. The tournament took place over nine days and included competitions in theory, observation, and other work related to astronomy.

There were also a variety of programs that introduced Korean culture and industry to foreign students and spectators. Astronomy figures from around the globe – along with Korean experts – took part as judges and this rendition of the Olympiad made the fifth time that Korea took first prize. The country has participated since the 8th Olympiad in Sweden. 2013's version of the International Astronomy Olympiad will take place in Lithuania and the competition is set to begin on September 5.

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Upcoming Events Contributors: Kang Heera, Choi Minyoung, Jo Ara, Park Soyoung (GIC Gwangju News Team)

Movie @ Gwangju Theater Movie @ Gwangju Theater Chungjang-no 5-ga (two blocks back behind Migliore) Phone : 062-224-5858 Films change weekly to bi-weekly Fee : 8,000 won per person per film Check online for calendar and prices: (in Korean) http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju

Modern Family 가족시네마 Genre: Drama Directors: Shin Su-won, Hong Ji-young, Lee Su-yeon Starring: Jung In-gi, Kim Ji-young, Sun Woo-sun Language: Korean Synopsis: This film is made up of four storylines.

Circle Line – A man loses his job out of the blue and his wife is in her second pregnancy. One day he rides the subway all day to kill time and comes across a woman begging for money to help her baby.

Star Shaped Stain – A couple loses their daughter in a fire accident at the kindergarten camp. A year later, she seems to be alive.

E.D. 571 – Gold Miss Kim is attacked by an egg she donated 12 years ago to receive university tuition.

In Good Company – A woman is at risk of unfair dismissal from work because of her pregnancy. Her selfish coworkers are only trying to see how things go.

Namyeong-dong 1985 남영동 1985 Genre: Drama Director: Jung Ji-young Starring: Park Won-sang, Lee Gyeong-yeong Language: Korean Synopsis: On the 4th of September 1985 when military dictatorship was in full swing, a pro-democracy activist, Jong-tae Kim, is taken somewhere. As he was often taken to the police station before, he thinks it is no big deal but he is taken somewhere by a strange man. From then on, he is tortured and forced to make a false statement. He refuses to do so in spite of the cruel torture. However, as the torturer Du-han Lee a.k.a. 'Undertaker' appears, a merciless 22 days that will change his life completely begin.

Amour 아무르 Genre: Drama Director: Michael Haneke Starring: Jean-Louis Trintignant, Emmanuelle Riva Language: French Synopsis: Georges and Anne are a musician couple in their eighties. One day, Anne has a stroke which paralyzes one arm and Georges nurses her devotedly.

However, their bond of love is tested.

Dupa Dealuri (Beyond the Hills) 신의 소녀들 Genre: Drama Director: Cristian Mungiu Starring: Cosmina Stratan, Cristina Flutur Language: Romanian 8

Gwangju News December 2012

Synopsis: Alina and Voichita grew up in an orphanage.

Alina, who left for Germany, came back to Romania to take Voichita, who is in a convent. But Voichita is so used to the life in the convent that she wants to live as a nun.

Alina stays in the convent to persuade Voichita. As conflicts between Alina and the convent deepen, the priests and nuns start to perform an exorcism.

Vous n'avez encore rien vu (You Haven't Seen Anything Yet) 당신은 아직 아무것도 보지 못했다 Genre: Drama Director: Alain Resnais Starring: Mathieu Amalric, Pierre Arditi Language: French Synopsis: After the death of a renowned playwright, Antoine d'Anthac, 13 actors and actresses who have appeared in Antoine's play Eurydice are invited to his castle. They watch a video message from Antoine and a recording of Eurydice performed by young actors and actresses.

Rent-a-Cat 고양이를 빌려드립니다 Genre: Drama, Comedy Director: Naoko Ogigami Starring: Mikako Ichikawa, Reiko Kusamura Language: Japanese Synopsis: Sayoko lives alone after her grandmother passed away. She rents cats to lonely people. She talks to the people who rent the cats and gets to know their loneliness.

Their stories make her feel connected with them because she is lonely as well. She wants to marry a good man and one day make a family but she is unable to do so in reality.

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advertisement

This Month at Holiday Inn Gwangju Welcome to the December Edition of what's happening and new at Holiday Inn Gwangju.

Festival Yeosu Hyangiram Temple Sunrise Festival 여수 향일암 일출제 Date: Dec. 31 Venue: Impo Village, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu, Jeollanam-do Programs: Korean traditional music festival, Sunrise singing contest, Orchestra, Candlelight ceremony, New year's countdown, Watch-night bell ringing, Fireworks, Dance festival, Family movie festival Directions: Take the bus to Yeosu from U-square Gwangju bus terminal (Frequency: every 10 - 20 minutes). From Yeosu bus terminal, take bus 111 and get off at Impo bus stop (Frequency: every 60 - 90 minutes, duration: 50 minutes).

For more information: 061-690-2041 2012 Haenam Kimchi-Making for the Winter Sharing Festival 해남 김장나눔축제 Date: Dec. 1 Venue: Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil Site, Uhang-ri, Hwangsanmyon, Haenam-gun, Jeollanam-do Programs: Making kimchi, Tasting kimchi, Performances by local artists Directions: Take the bus to Haenam from U-square (Frequency: every 1 hour). From the Haenam bus terminal, take the bus named “Haenam- Jeunguido” and get off at Haenam Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil site bus stop.

For more information: 061-530-5919 Boseong Green Tea Plantation and Light Festival 보성차밭 빛 축제 Date: Dec.14, 2012 to Jan. 27, 2013 Venue: Dahyanggak Pavilion Observatory area, Yeongcheon-ri, Hoecheon-myeon, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Programs: lighting ceremony, celebratory performance, fireworks, photo zone, milky way tunnel, street of lights Directions: Take the bus to Boseong, from U-square (Frequency: every 30 minutes). From the Boseong Terminal, take a local bus bound for Yulpo and get off at Boseong Green Tea Plantation.

For more information: 061-850-5211~5214

Great Shellfish Platter Small platters from 22,600 won and large platters from 38,000 won when purchasing our buffet.

Christmas in Hourglass and Bookings are Essential With Christmas day falling on a Tuesday this year, we have decided to extend our Special Christmas Buffet from Saturday December 22 through to December 25.

Plus a huge spread of prawns with fresh oysters and clams Lunch: 39,900 won per person Dinner: 49,900 won per person Reservations are essential: 062-610-7061or 7062

Wonderful Winter Coffee's As winter is on our doorstep we will again promote a range of winter coffees that include, Jameson Irish Coffee, Gluehwein, Kahlua Coffee and Baileys Coffee.

Best wishes, Michael Wilson General Manager Holiday Inn Gwangju Michael.Wilson@ihg.com

Gwangju News December 2012

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Exhibition

Performance

Project Gwangju: Postcards from Abroad and Your Gwangju Community Photography Exhibition 프로젝트 광주 Venue: Gwangju International Center, Jeonil Building 5F, Dong-gu, Gwangju Programs: Postcard Exhibition, Gwangju Photo Exhibition.

Project Gwangju is a community art project in collaboration with the Gwangju Biennale. The concept of this project is to see our local region, Gwangju, in a new and different perspective, and to think about how the Gwangju community is connected to the world through its people.

For more information: www.gic.or.kr

Mudeung Mountain Punggyeong Sori (Tinkling of a Windbell) 무등산 풍경소리 Christmas Music Feast Venue: Naju Noahn Cathedral Directions: Take bus 38 at the U-square bus station which goes to Songjeong Park station. Then take town bus 601, get off at the Leeseul-chon station.

Date: Dec. 22 Time: 7 p.m.

Admission: Free Phone: 062-226-0826

2012 Gwangju Photowalk – GIC Photo Exhibition 광주포토워크 사진전 Venue: Gwangju International Center, Jeonil Building 5F, Dong-gu, Gwangju Date: Nov. 24 - Dec. 17 This exhibition showcases photos taken during the 5th Worldwide Photowalk happening in Gwangju on Nov. 13.

Soul Play – Brown Eyed Soul Gwangju Concert 브라운아이드소울 광주 콘서트 Venue: Yeomju Gymnasium Date: Dec. 15 Time: 6 p.m.

Admission: Seat SR 132,000 won / Seat R 110,000 won / Seat S 88,000 won/ Seat A 77,000 won Phone: 1588-0766

A-AUCTION Modern and Contemporary Art & Antiques Auction Preview Exhibition 에이옥션 근현대 및 고미술품 경매 프리뷰 전시 Venue: U-Square Culture Center (Kumho Gallery) Date: Dec. 6 - 11 Time: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Admission fee: Free Phone: 062-360-8432

Musical – Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy 뮤지컬 비보이를 사랑한 발레리나 Venue: Grand Theater, Gwangju Cultural and Art Center Date: Dec. 24 - 25 Times: 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. (24th)/ 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. (25th) Admission: Seat VIP 66,000 won/ Seat R 55,000/ Seat S 33,000 won Phone: 1600-6689

36th Yeonuhoe Calligraphy Exhibition 제 36 회 연우회 서예전 (*Yeonuhoe means The Group of Painters dealing with an Inkstone. Yeonuhoe is instituted to make contribution to advance in Korea art as well as show their art through exhibition.)

Venue: U-Square Culture Center (Kumho Gallery) Date: Dec. 13-19 Time: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Admission fee: Free Phone: 062-222-4155

Musical – Don't Cry Tonj 뮤지컬 울지마 톤즈 Venue: Grand Theater, Gwangju Cultural and Art Center Date: Dec. 8 - 9 Times: 3 p.m. / 7 p.m.

Admission: Seat VIP 77,000 won/ Seat R 66,000 won/ Seat S 55,000 won Seat A 44,000 won Phone: 1600-6689

Providence 천명 Venue: Gwangju Museum of Art (Sangrok Exhibition Hall) Date: Nov. 2 to Dec.16 Time: Tue-Sun 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. /Mon closed Admission Fee: Adults 500 won/Youth 300 won/Children 200 won Phone: 062-613-7114 Wild-eyed Friends 엉뚱한 친구들 Venue: Gwangju Museum of Art (Children's Gallery) Date: Oct 25, 2012 to Feb 10, 2013 Time: Tue-Sun 10 a.m.-6 p.m. /Mon closed Admission Fee: Adults 500 won/Youth 300 won/Children 200 won Phone: 062-613-7114 Bitgoeul Handmade Fair 빛고을 핸드메이드 페어 Venue: Kimdaejung Convention Center Date: Nov 29 to Dec 2 Time: 10 a.m to 6 p.m.

Admission Fee: Free Phone: 062-360-2623 10

Gwangju News December 2012

Rocky Man – Singer Lee Seung-chul Gwangju Concert 이승철 광주 콘서트 Venue : Kim Daejung Convention Center Date: Dec.12 Time: 7 p.m.

Admission : Seat VVIP 121,000 won/ Seat VIP 110,000 won/ Seat R 99,000 won/ Seat S 88,000 won / Seat A 77,000 won Phone: 1588-0766 Sarah Chang Violin Recital 사라 장 바이올린 리사이틀 Venue: Grand Theater, Gwangju Cultural and Art Center Date: Dec. 1 Time: 7 p.m.

Admission: Seat VIP 143,000 won/ Seat R 132,000 won / Seat S 99,000 won/ Seat A 77,000 won/ Seat B 66,000 won Phone: 062-417-6022

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December 8 Speaker: Mary Beth Wims (USA)

Sports Gwangju FC Team November Match Schedule Date

Match Team

Time

1

Jeonnam Dragons

3 p.m.

Venue: Gwangju World Cup Stadium (광주월드컵경기장) Direction: Buses 6, 16, 20, 26, 47, 74 and get off at the World Cup Stadium bus stop Ticket Price: VIP 10,000 won, Gold 5,000 won (10% discount for online purchases) Website: www.gwangjufc.com

[ GIC Talk ] Time & Place: Every Saturday, 3:00 p.m. - 4:30 p.m., GIC office (Jeon-il Bldg 5th Fl.) For more information visit www.gic.or.kr or contact gic@gic.or.kr Check out pictures from previous GIC Talks at http://picasaweb.google.com/gictalk Watch highlight clips of previous GIC Talks at www.youtube.com/GICTALK

December 1 Speaker: David Magee (England)

David Magee was born and raised in Liverpool, England, and studied English at the University of Manchester. He was brought up listening to his hometown band The Beatles and watching classic James Bond movies, and retains his love for these things today. He is passionate about music, cinema, and literature, and dreams of one day earning a living as a writer.

Background: B.A. in English language, University of Manchester (UK)

Topic: The Global Reach of Contemporary British Culture After producing such legendary figures ranging from film director Alfred Hitchcock, musical pioneers The Beatles, and, more recently, wandwielding author JK Rowling, this famously unassuming island nation can deservedly call itself one of the world's greatest cultural superpowers – British names such as these, and many others like them, can now command an almost peerless recognition in the realms of literature, music, and cinema.

This talk aims to explore and discuss this wide range of artists, and make apparent just what it is that has led to the immortality of the likes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney, J.R.R. Tolkien, and even the ageless British secret agent, James Bond.

Mary Beth Wims is an English teacher at Inseong School Institute in the Cheomdan area of Gwangju.

Her background is in health education, program planning and biology. Prior to moving to Korea to pursue her dream of teaching internationally, she worked for five years in oncology research administration at the University of Wisconsin Carbone Cancer Center.

Background: B.S. in Health Sciences, Truman State University; TEFL Midwest Teacher Training Program

Topic: The Doctor Will See You Now: A Look at Healthcare Systems Good health – we all want it, but many of us find it illusive. For most people, good health comes from a combination of prudent lifestyle choices, genetics, luck, and adequate and affordable healthcare. This last variable is so important to our well-being, but finding, accessing, and paying for quality care can be affected by many things outside our control. This talk will outline the general healthcare policies of South Korea and the USA as well as compare these two systems to those of other nations. The speaker invites the audience to bring their knowledge and opinions and be prepared for a lively discussion.

December 15 Speaker: Jonathan Haines (USA)

As a child growing up in Brooklyn, New York City, he was introduced to sports by his father, who was his basketball coach for years. His father taught him the nuts and bolts of both English and basketball, but never cared at all for the game called baseball. After discovering an athlete named Mike Piazza, our curious protagonist became infatuated with the game of baseball, especially the lesser known New York team from Queens – the New York Mets.

Background: B.A. in Media Studies at Fordham University, New York, New York, USA

Topic: Why Baseball Matters Countless American authors, poets, and longwinded people with too little to do have called baseball a metaphor for not just the great country of the United States of America, but also for life itself. Every spring, the excitement of a new season lulls the end of a cold offseason. For decades, baseball has been called “America's pastime.” In recent years, it has become extremely popular in other nations, including our very own South Korea.

While in America it has been surpassed by American football in terms of popularity, it still holds plenty of meaning for a country that began a relatively short time ago. This talk will explore how baseball grew up alongside a new, young country and what kind of importance it has for some of its biggest fans, including the speaker.

December 22 & 29 No GIC Talk Gwangju News December 2012 11

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feature

Good Afternoon, Vietnam

By C. Adam Volle Photos by Christian Oey and courtesy of Chonnam National University

I

can't decide if I'm not learning anything or I'm learning a lot.

It's Saturday, November 3, and I have been given the honor of sitting down to a classy lunch at Gwangju's popular Arirang House with one of the most important men I've ever met: Vietnam's ambassador to South Korea, Tran Trong Toan. With us is a small committee sent to welcome him by the Gwangju International Center (GIC), where the ambassador is scheduled to give a speech. This committee includes two university professors.

To summarize, I'm easily the least culturally sophisticated person at the table - and that's part of my motivation for showing up today. What sort of conversations do brilliant academics have with each other? Let me tell you, I am learning. So far we've heard from the ambassador three quintessentially Vietnamese jokes about drunk people (and they were funny, mind you), an explanation of the idiom “planting the banana tree,” a few factoids about how cultural exchange with China has changed his country's language, 12

Gwangju News December 2012

and a few suggestions about Vietnamese food to try. The ambassador has in turn complimented the fish we are eating and inquired about the Korean translations of a few words.

In short, the conversation is strained. The ice just isn't breaking. There is an overwhelming sense at the table that the topic of conversation simply must be related to Vietnam, South Korea, or the relationship between the two. After all, one doesn't formally invite an ambassador to lunch so he can talk baseball. But since the words of a diplomat carry exceptional weight, Tran's statements on current affairs must of necessity be either noncommittal or vaguely positive, and therefore very little fun. It also doesn't help that I've been advised not to ask certain types of questions. Thus our circumscribed conversation gravitates inexorably toward the trading of little nuggets of information that are always politely received with some variation of “Oh, is that so? You don't say.”

Finally, the problem is compounded by the fact that the ambassador is the private sort. He informs

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM Page 13

Ambassador Tran giving a presentation on Vietnam at the GIC Talk

me of this himself, in a perfectly kind manner, during our car ride to the GIC after lunch. Yes, he says, he does indeed have two daughters, but he doesn't elaborate. Fair enough, I think. Here's what I do learn about him: Ambassador Tran was born on a Sunday in October of 1952, in the Ha Tay province just southwest of Hanoi's city gates. His father Ahn named him Toan, meaning “safe,” on the grounds that there was precious little else in the Red River Delta that had gone by that description for quite some time; the atrocity-laden First Indochina War was still in full swing after over five years, with the Vietnamese Communists and French Union forces dishearteningly stalemated. Tran's father's own name meant “peace,” but it was the man's later soldiering with the Communist army, as well as the enlistment of Tran's elder brother, that allowed Tran to be safe in more than name. For their service, the Socialist Republic of Vietnam exempted Tran from the draft.

But as it turned out, the state had other uses for him anyway. “I had no idea,” the ambassador recounts with an authentic laugh (we are getting a little friendlier now), “but they were already looking at me while I was in high school.” Tran's excellent grades and commitment to the Party

convinced the government to send him off to university in the Soviet Union, where he obtained a Master's in Philosophy and Oriental Studies at Tashkent State. He has lived the life of the career diplomat ever since, steadily working his way up from the junior position of desk officer in his country's Ministry of Foreign Affairs to headier roles at its embassies in India, Malaysia, and South Korea – and it doesn't get too much more heady than his current job, fully titled His Excellency, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary.

Even native speakers of English usually need a dictionary to parse that title, so let's spend a moment on it. The word “extraordinary” may seem flattering, but it actually just means the man's job is temporary; Vietnam follows the international standard of reassigning its ambassadors every three years. A “plenipotentiary” is a representative in the fullest sense - a person with the power to take any action on behalf of the person being represented, in this case the president of Vietnam.

That Tran is a plenipotentiary of Vietnam's president is signaled by the honorific “His Excellency” before his name, a form of address usually reserved for presidents and governors of territories. The clear implication is that, so far as everyone in South Korea should be concerned, Tran is the president of Vietnam.

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Ambassador Tran at the GIC Talk

Obviously that's not a responsibility he takes lightly, but it is one with which he's grown comfortable.

Not only has he served in the post for over 2 1/2 years now, but he came to it after having already completed a term as Vietnam's ambassador to Malaysia, back in 2003. I ask him how much difference there is between his work there and his work here. “There is not so much difference,” he replies. “The paperwork is essentially the same.”

There's probably a little more of it, though. While Malaysia does employ nearly 130,000 Vietnamese laborers, “Korea is the second biggest foreign investor in Vietnam and Vietnam is the third largest foreign market for Korean investment … Korea is the fourth biggest trade partner of Vietnam and Vietnam is Korea's ninth largest market for Korean exports [as well as] Korea's 21st largest import source.” A free trade agreement is currently in the works.

But how much does all of this activity have to do with Gwangju?

You might be surprised. Even if Gwangju doesn't have any sort of official relationship with a “sister city” in Vietnam like Seoul and Busan do, it still has significant ties to the Socialist Republic. Tran notes that Gwangju has taken a leading role in promoting a positive perception of Vietnamese culture among South Koreans.

The first major exhibition of Vietnamese art in South Korea opened in 2010 at the Gwangju Museum of Art. Last year the city organized the first international workshop in Korea dedicated to the life of modern Vietnam's founder, Ho Chi Minh.

When one considers South Korea's adversarial relationship to that man during his lifetime - his communist beliefs are still considered seditious within the R.O.K. Army – this gesture of goodwill is genuinely impressive.

Moreover, there is a large Vietnamese community 14

Gwangju News December 2012

Ambassador Tran meeting Vietnamese community in Gwangju

in Gwangju comprising Vietnamese workers, students and Vietnamese brides. The ambassador slyly notes that, considering the number of Vietnamese women who now live with their Korean husbands in the countryside of Jeollanamdo, Gwangju will never have a “sister” city in Vietnam. “It will have a mother-in-law.”

But seriously: “We have here [in South Korea] a quite significant number of Korea-Vietnam bicultural families which are now around 50,000 families. I reserve a lot of my time and attention to this community as we want them to be stable, prosperous and happy.” By his estimate, about three-fourths of Korea-Vietnam marriages now fit that description. His government is trying to improve that figure by, for example, requiring Korean grooms to have some knowledge of Vietnamese language and culture before they can wed.

Vietnam's government has also recently authorized the Vietnamese Women Union to establish counseling centers and classes on Korean culture for Vietnamese women interested in Korean men.

The ambassador is also working hard to sell Vietnam's business environment. One of the

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partnership is progressing. I'm mainly interested in the short Q&A session for a u d i e n c e members, during which they may ask anything they like. How will the ambassador handle a stack of questions that haven't been vetted for possible discomfort?

The answer is: exceedingly well.

He's warm. Open.

Knowledgeable.

He doesn't speak in statements.

When someone asks, “What role does Socialism still Ambassador Tran during the interview with Gwangju News and Chonnam National University play in Vietnam?” the ambassador Vietnamese embassy's duties in South Korea is to replies with his own personal definition of Socialism: promote the idea of investment in Vietnam to To him, Socialism is the goal of “a democratic, Korean businesses, including those in Gwangju. equitable and civilized” country “of the People, by the People, and for the People” (a clever choice of “Gwangju has five industrial parks and is home to phrase; he is quoting Ho Chi Minh, who was over 1,200 companies,” the ambassador explains. quoting the U.S. Declaration of Independence).

“Vietnam would like to attract investment from The ambassador then adds that there isn't much those companies with high-tech industries, difference in principle between the “socialistautomobile industry, textile and garment industry, oriented market economy” of today's Vietnam and supportive industries, [and the] food processing the supposed capitalism of countries like the United industry which are active in Gwangju.

States.

“We are happy to provide necessary information to Korean companies in Gwangju and to introduce Vietnamese partners for them to do business in Vietnam.”

Pushing past family assistance and economic diplomacy, the ambassador also likes to pay an occasional visit to the Vietnamese community in Gwangju which includes students in Gwangju's universities. Chonnam National University specifically has an active Vietnamese Student Association (VSA), and many of its members are in the audience when we enter the GIC lecture hall.

At the GIC, Tran delivers his speech. Naturally, His Excellency begins by noting some of the cultural and historical similarities between South Korea and his homeland, and then proceeds to the usual statements about how well the countries'

The answers he gives to the next questions are equally as intelligent and heartfelt. When asked again about the possibility of a sister city in Vietnam for Gwangju, he offers his opinion on what city would be most appropriate (he suggests Hue, Vietnam's capital in the 19th century). I am enjoying this visit from the ambassador now more than at any point in the day. I feel I understand a little better why Vietnam's president sent this particular man to be his plenipotentiary. Like most of the other attendees, I'm genuinely disappointed when he soon runs out of time, and when the crowd begins advancing on the ambassador afterward instead of dispersing, I join it. Like them, I want a handshake, perhaps even a picture. It took until the last few minutes of my observation of the man from Ha Tay, but Ambassador Tran has finally connected with me, and that is the skill of a good diplomat.

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feature

Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear

By Rachel Redfern Photos courtesy of Gwangju International Film Festival (GIFF) Organizing Commitee

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his year the annual Gwangju International Film Festival was held November 8-12 and featured a formidable variety of notable and provocative international films. The final film was a documentary about Burmese human rights activist and pro-democracy leader, Aung San Suu Kyi entitled, Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear. The film's director, Anne Gyrithe Bonne, was also in attendance for the screening (a remarkable thing considering that she had flown from her native Denmark in order to attend) and she was gracious enough to grant Gwangju News a private interview.

Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear naturally covers Suu Kyi's infamous periods of house arrest and the personal discipline and mental fortitude she possessed which allowed her to be such a powerful leader and democratic activist. However, the film focuses on Suu Kyi's private life, which Bonne would argue is essential to understanding her involvement in the Burmese struggle for democracy. Bonne specifically chose to focus on the astounding relationship between Suu Kyi and her husband, Michael Aris, since Aris was a major support to Suu Kyi and similarly held her belief that Burma was everything: more than each other, more than their children.

Director Anne Gyrithe Bonne

Kyi was educated at Oxford during the sixties and while other women were exploring the sexual revolution, Suu Kyi protested that she wanted to be a virgin when she married and that for now she would, “just hug her pillow at night.” In many ways Suu Kyi never forgot that she was from Burma, even refusing British citizenship as a way to maintain her heritage, for, as she told Aris when they married, “If Burma needs me, I will go.”

What the film is especially good at demonstrating is the incredible mythic power that Aung San Suu Kyi has over the Burmese people. Because of her background as the daughter of the great commander and soldier of independence, Aung San, as well as her renowned public speaking abilities, Aung San Suu Kyi was able to step into her father's shoes; as one loyal Burmese supporter said of her, “She is not only a fighter, she is a commander.”

This dual-nature she possesses highlights her relationship to Burma: Burma was always her home, but neither was she the government's puppet, sporting a rebellious streak of her own. A rebellious streak that Bonne believes is demonstrated in her marriage to Aris, who despite his cosmopolitan upbringing, was still an “enemy of Burma” as an Englishman. Suu Kyi directly went against her mother's wishes, her family's wishes, and even the wishes of her country by marrying the man she loved – her mother refused to even attend the wedding.

There is a second side to her though; her graceful and poised nature set her apart from other wouldbe leaders, and even from her college friends. Suu

For many years Suu Kyi stayed in Oxford with her family, giving birth to two children and supporting her husband's rising career as a Buddhist scholar, a

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Aung San Suu Kyi

topic that surprisingly Aris actually taught Suu Kyi about and an interest that the two of them shared.

Eventually, Suu Kyi began to start her own projects, beginning a biography about her father and even applying to graduate school. However, the sudden failing health of her mother in 1988 called her back to Burma, unknowing that she would become its most outspoken and inspiring democratic activist in just a few short months.

In reference to Suu Kyi's sudden propulsion into Burmese politics, Bonne felt that Suu Kyi had been seduced by Burma, stating that, “She had been a proper housewife for a long time, 'ironing Michael's socks.' During that time period the world was more about the man; if you wanted to get a Ph.D you couldn't because you had your children and your house and your husband. Then there was the 8-8-88 revolution and she went to Burma to visit her mother and she was finally elevated. She gave a lot of public speeches, speeches with some say 250,000 people, some say even 500,000 people; she was an amazing public speaker and people loved her.”

But her success would lead to great personal sacrifice, a situation that Bonne outlines in her film.

While many are aware that Suu Kyi was held under house arrest for almost 15 years, some might not be aware that she was allowed to leave as she chose: she just wouldn't be allowed to return. The

conditions for her release were dependent upon her willingness to live in exile from Burma. However, despite her desire to see her family (Aris and her children were refused visas into Burma starting in 1995) she knew that she could only be effective if she stayed in Burma. And how could she leave Burma knowing that so many others could not? How could she leave knowing that Burmese people were suffering and political prisoners were being abused?

She therefore chose separation from her family rather than abandon her people, a decision that led to criticism against Suu Kyi, some saying that she had ‘abandoned her children’, which is a harsh accusation against any mother.

However, exposing the information about Suu Kyi leaving her children in England to serve Burma was Bonne's greatest concern about producing this film; “I was afraid of destroying her cause. It was a balancing act to make her story and also be respectful because I was afraid that the general [leader of Burma] and others would see the film and think she's a bad mother and end up damaging her cause.” However, Bonne continued to make the film, believing it was essential to uncover the story behind the icon, to realize what had nurtured such a strong and effective supporter of democracy and civil rights.

The documentary then walks a delicate line in Gwangju News December 2012 17

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about this astounding coincidence however, acknowledging that the film certainly, “brought people's eyes to her.” Obviously the film created a fair amount of exposure about Suu Kyi's situation and must have helped to place pressure on the Burmese government. In 2011, the film was selected for the exclusive Berlin 'Cinema for Peace' Festival, after which a journalist was finally allowed into Burma to photograph Aung San Suu Kyi.

Director Anne Gyrithe Bonne receiving awards from the Gwangju International Film Festival 2012

respectfully baring Suu Kyi's unique past, highlighting her political achievements, while also demonstrating Suu Kyi's own humanity. In that light, the film focuses more on her personal relationships and features interviews from several of her close friends and family. These interviews revealed just how much Suu Kyi sacrificed for the people of Burma after the Burmese government refused to allow Aris to visit his wife, even as he was dying of prostate cancer. Aris died in 1999 in England, unable to say goodbye to his beloved wife.

Despite the tragic circumstances surrounding Aris's death and the Burmese governments unwillingness to allow him into the country, Bonne believes that it served to increase Suu Kyi's popularity and power among the Burmese people. When it became known that she had given up everything for them, she became even more beloved and her supporters ever more loyal.

While great attention should obviously be paid to Suu Kyi's incredible political triumphs, when asked about what she wanted audiences to take away from the film, Bonne explained that she hopes people see, “That there's always a story behind the person and then realize what price they had to pay to become that person and who they are.” A tie-in to a beautiful line in the film where Aung San Suu Kyi says, “Nothing is free: if you want something of value you must make payments accordingly.”

According to Bonne, Suu Kyi, “paid a big price.”

The extended version of the film (which I was able to view on Monday night) actually starts at the end of her house arrest, with the first few minutes of the film showing footage of Suu Kyi after her 2010 release. This is unique for many reasons: the documentary was originally released a mere two days before Suu Kyi's 2010 release. Bonne is humble

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Bonne's film exposes Aung San Suu Kyi's humanity and in so doing has shown the strength and desire for freedom that is possible in leaders and which is fundamentally necessary for the development of human rights in the future. As Aung San Suu Kyi has said, “we must nurture mental strength and support each other,” because it is then that we experience true freedom: “freedom from fear.”

Aung San Suu Kyi - Lady of no Fear Director: Anne Gyrithe Bonne Screenplay: Anne Gyrithe Bonne Cinematography: Erik Molberg, Anne Gyrithe Bonne Cast: Aung San Suu Kyi (self) Website: www.ladyofnofear.com Synopsis: Aung San Suu Kyi is known first and foremost as the political opposition leader at the centre of 20 years of social unrest and turmoil in Burma. She started out as a British housewife in the upper echelons of Oxford society before she went back to her oppressed homeland and joined the struggle for freedom. Since her return she was held under house arrest for fifteen out of twenty-one years during which she had minimal contact with her family and closest relations. 'Lady of No Fear' offers a close-up of the freedom fighting woman Aung San Suu Kyi and her husband, Dr Michael Aris, who died on his 53rd birthday in 1999, still unable to see his wife. Together they gave up their normal life and marriage for the cause of freedom in Burma. The film is a tribute to the woman at the heart of the rebellion, her steadfast husband and supporter, and not least to Gandhi's vision of nonviolent civic resistance.

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community

Adopt A Child For Christmas 2012

By Daniel Lister Photo by Stephen Redeker Life in an orphanage in fairness probably isn't the greatest, and when Christmas comes round, much like the rest of the year the chance to receive clothes which aren't hand-me-downs is one that is hugely appreciated. Anyone who has been to one of the previous parties will confirm how much appreciation the girls at Sungbin showed at the two previous parties when they unwrapped their gifts.

So you want to get involved this year? Follow the following steps: Step#1. Find “Adopt A Child For Christmas 2012” on Facebook, make a post on the wall of the page, send a private message to contact Daniel Lister, or alternatively email daniellister7@hotmail.com saying how many children you'd like to purchase for (you may may purchase for more than one!).

Step#2. You will be given a name, age, required gift and details (color, size, brand etc.)

A

dopt a Child for Christmas is slowly becoming a staple in the Gwangju calendar as residents, Korean and expat alike, are invited to give to those who otherwise won't receive. Simply put, residents of local orphanages are asked precisely what they would like, drawing up a Christmas wish list of sorts, and you, the good people of Gwangju are invited to 'adopt a child', in other words go and buy the item they require. Gifts traditionally include warm winter clothing, school bags, and other items that budgets at orphanages just can't quite cover.

As well as the assurance your gift will be one the receiver requires, there is the further bonus that all donators are invited to attend a Christmas Party at 1:00 p.m. on December 15 at Sungbin Home for Girls to witness the young ladies at that particular orphanage receive their gifts.

Step#3. Go shopping! * All gifts should be wrapped and clearly labeled with a gift tag stating the child's name and yours. Please include receipts.

Step#4. Drop off gifts – Downtown at the GIC. At Chonnam National University or Gwangju Women's University, though contact Daniel first to make exact arrangements. The deadline for gifts is December 12.

Step#5.

Come along to the Christmas party – all donators welcome! 1:00 p.m. on December 15 at Sungbin Home for Girls.

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food and drink

Tacos

Nachos

Tequilaz Mexican Restaurant: The perfect place to start a Saturday night

By Andrew Sweeney Photos by Oronzo Venturoso Tequilaz is growing in both customers and reputation. Recently, on a rainy, windy Sunday night, I was given the opportunity to take shelter in Tequilaz, meet its owner, sample the Mexican food they serve, and take in the atmosphere and see what all the hype was about...

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nd as I walked to Tequilaz, for my maiden visit inside, I was a little apprehensive about what I might see. When I hear of a “Mexican” restaurant, located hundreds of miles away from its origin I get worried. It reminds me, an Irishman, of walking into those “Irish” bars that seem to think an Irish bar has to be decorated in green, with Guinness signs draped from the ceiling to the floor and with pictures of men who look as old as mountains, wearing a paddy hat and looking cold.

So I was relieved when I saw Tequilaz. There were no cheap gimmicks or stereotypical Mexican symbols such as a statue of a small, happy, chubby man with an anchor mustache wearing a sombrero. In fact, my first impression was one of a modern, stylish and sophisticated restaurant with Mexican food as its primary attraction. It's stylish in its setting; it's spacious with the bar serving as the epicentre of it. The open space allows for two things: a room for multiple groups to sit comfortably with one another which gives rise to a relaxed and free social environment where people can talk with their friends, as well as an area that looks out onto Gwangsan-dong street. If you are having trouble looking for it on a Saturday night, you will probably 20

Gwangju News December 2012

hear it before you see it, because of the jubilant environment inside.

While I was there I did two things, speak to Sung-ju and sample Tequilaz's menu. I found Sung-ju to be reserved when speaking of himself, yet passionate and hungry to succeed as we spoke of Tequilaz.

Sung-ju, a former agent, is a well-travelled man, having spent time living in Canada, Australia and England. Upon his return, in 2010, he decided to open up a Mexican restaurant with its manifesto to “give people the opportunity to meet others” and to “share and change cultural experiences with one another” in Gwangju. Thus, it is a restaurant, but it also acts as a social space for people to come and chat together.

Sung-ju's hunger is seen in his ambition for the business and in his knowledge that to succeed, change is necessary. Given that nearly 80% of his customers are expats, he was keen to get Korean people tasting his Mexican food and by doing so, making them aware that such food exists in Gwangju. GIC Day 2012 provided Tequilaz with the perfect platform to make people aware that Mexican food exists in Korea and to

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allow them to taste his food. The event was a great success for the owner, and he hopes that word will spread about his business. Change came about in 2011 when he decided to move Tequilaz from its original location, Chonnam National University back gate, to downtown. With a new location brought a new menu, serving “high quality food,” according to the owner. In the beginning there was only Sung-ju in the kitchen, but now he has three chefs working for him. This improvement in quality became obvious to me as I was treated to a sampling of their Mexican cuisine. I was served tortilla tacos, chorizo nachos with fresh salsa sauce and pork chimichanga. The food, cooked with all fresh produce, was tasty and extremely filling.

Mexican food is the ideal food to eat on a night out with others. The food is authentic, served fresh and it is food made to be eaten around a table and shared with friends in a fun environment. Tequilaz provides this for its customers and at a reasonable price too.

Tony, the manager, has brought not only a hunger to succeed to match Sung-ju, he has also brought his own stamp to Tequilaz; most noticeably in its myriad of cocktails served at the bar but also in his “baby” as he calls it, “Wing Wednesdays”. Every Wednesday at Tequilaz, you can enjoy a classic trio of American style chicken wings, beer and football.

The wings are served with sauces all made in house, and they are sauces you will not have tasted before. There is a peanut butter and jelly sauce, a spicy chocolate and coca-cola sauce as well as

Kang Sung-ju, Tequilaz owner

the traditional sauces you would expect to find. On Wednesdays, you can get a healthy helping of wings and a draft beer for only 8,000 won, a pitcher of beer for 10,000 won and for those going in a group you can get a platter of twenty wings for a buck each. Another great offer is buffet night, which happens on the first Thursday of every month, from 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. The charge is 15,000 won for all you can eat of Mexican food only, with a draft beer included. While Wing Wednesdays show that Tequilaz is not exclusive to Mexican cuisine, and a possible sign of things to come, it does show that they are willing to change and alter to cater for the appetites of their customers.

While my visit was short, I feel I got a sense of what Sung-ju is trying to achieve at Tequilaz. It is a restaurant that serves Mexican food, beer and cocktails. Yet, it can be more than that; it's a social hub for the Gwangju people to come and talk, to communicate with others. It is the perfect place to go on a Saturday night with a group of friends to eat, drink, and laugh, all hallmarks of a great night out.

Tequilaz 데낄라즈 Address: 79-6 Gwangsan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju (Tequilaz is located downtown in Gwangsan-dong on the second floor, next to Soul Train.)

Phone: 062-224-2436 Food and drinks at Tequilaz

To see more promotions available at Tequilaz, visit their Facebook page.

Gwangju News December 2012

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photo essay

Munsusa

By Doug Stuber

This page: Munsusa’s autumn foliage

lthough Baegyangsa is very popular in autumn, perhaps due to its reflecting pond, or large parking capacity, there is another Buddhist temple north of Gwangju which offers over 500 maples on an easy hike that presents overflow crowds with every fall color. Located near Gochang, Munsusa is a series of seven buildings nestled among some of the older trees. Munsusa was originally built in the 1630s and rebuilt in the early 1800s. One old building remains rustic, giving its courtyard an authentic ambiance. A meditative respite from the crowds of tripod-toting shutterbugs is thus ensured for the spiritually inclined.

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Direction: From Gochang Bus Terminal, take bus to Munsusa (duration: 30 minutes).

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Munsusa atop the old foundation rocks

Munsusa’s rustic building

Munsusa’s fall berries

Munsusa’s small waterfall

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community

Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing

By Shay Meinecke Photos by Jannies Le

G

wangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym is certainly unique. Walking through the door, one can see the difference. Instead of towering walls and hanging ropes, this gym boasts slanted beams, grips on the walls and even on the ceiling.

The back walls are staged for beginners with different grip classes and paths. The side walls are reserved for more extreme climbers. As you scale across the walls, the holds and paths become increasingly demanding and more awkward. Each grab brings you closer to the more difficult levels.

You can easily feel the burn in your forearms, hands and fingers as you scale across the room.

Climbing to the intermediate side of the gym allows for ceiling suspension and even more challenging and uncomfortable grips. By this point, the grasps are very tiny and almost impossible to grip. Even the foot holds are hard to put your weight on. If you can get to this point, you will find yourself hanging from the skewed walls trying not to fall. Depending on your level though, it is best to get some training. The owner of the gym, who is highly skilled himself, offers training for all levels – beginner, intermediate, advanced and sport competitive. In fact, a student of the gym is on his way to compete in the International Federation of Sport Climbing – the “World Series” for bouldering athletes. This is a great source of pride for the climber and the teachers alike.

By a month's time, it is possible to improve to the more advanced levels.

The beginning classes consist of two-hour sessions of three to four times a week for one month at a rate of 100,000 won. The first 30 minutes consist of stretching exercises needed for climbing. The next 60 minutes are a warm-up and for instruction. In the class, you can expect to learn footing and hand and body techniques. Each hold and technique allows the climber to relieve the most amount of stress while easily remaining on the wall or rock.

There are quite a few grabs and positions that help the more experienced climber remain suspended.

The more advanced level training classes for professionals are at least four to five days a week including customized coaching and costs 200,000 won a month. While in this class, it is possible to join competitions and compete against other local and international climbers. At this stage, you will learn a series of holds. Some of these holds require the suspended boulderer to maintain a hold using only their fingertips. This specific example is called a crimp or crimping. Extreme upper-body strength is needed for this.

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to the public for 10,000 won a day. This admission includes shows and an all-day pass. Their hours are 10 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Friday and 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on Saturday. The trainers will also offer advice for beginners and help with basic positions and holds in order to get people on their way.

The atmosphere of the gym is very friendly. Climbers and trainers alike offer recommendations and what works for them. Even the owner's wife and daughter, who are also gifted climbers, offer advice. You can expect to see the family climbing around the room at all levels. It's quite a sight to see a 10-year-old bouldering at an advanced level. Both the daughter and mother easily spring from grip to grip and dangle around the holds in simple, fluid motions.

While advancing, you will find yourself attempting the extreme angles of the walls and impossible holds. Not only that, but the lanes are also incredibly difficult – expect to see some Mission Impossible wall jumps for the expertly trained dare-devil climbers. In fact, while the jump from the movie seemed impossible, there is actually a name for what Tom Cruise's character, Ethan Hunt, attempted. It is called a dyno movement.

This is when the climber completely releases his/her holds in order to regain contact with a grip outside of previous reach. While this is an extreme move, you can expect to learn this and other moves/holds such as campusing, chest jam and manteling. Each of these varies in difficulty and requires practice and coaching.

However, if you prefer less competition and more fun, Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym opens its doors

Whatever your level or reason for getting in a great workout, Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym is a great way to spend a day. Your body will thank you for the tremendous workout and you will find a sense of accomplishment as you learn how to climb a wall.

In addition, you can even take your new skills out and try your hand at Korea's many mountains and natural bouldering sites. Before then, learn from the best at Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing gym.

Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym 광주실내암벽 Address: 1597 Unam-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju Directions: The gym is located on the 2nd and 3rd floor of 171 Unam-dong’s Machinery & Tool Street (운암동 공구의 거 리171번 2층/ 3층) Phone: 062-514-5325 (Lee Yoon-jae/ 이윤재) Gwangju News December 2012

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travel

Gyeongju:

a Mini-break to the Shilla Kingdom Words and photos by Andrea Edwards

Tumuli Park

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umber two on the list of Lonely Planet's top picks for South Korea is Gyeongju, but it often gets forgotten in favor for the draws of Seoul, Busan and Jeju. However, it is definitely worth making a trip to soak up the fresh air, mountain views and a taste of old Korea.

Only two buses per day leave from U-Square for Gyeongju (9:45 a.m. and 4:40 p.m.), taking three and a half hours to get to the ancient Shilla capital, winding their way past Daegu through the beautiful scenery of Gyeongsangbuk-do. Once you arrive you are an easy 10-minute walk from the bus terminal to downtown Gyeongju.

The first thing you notice when you arrive in downtown Gyeongju is the sky. It sounds strange but you can really see the sky, from horizon to horizon, in every direction. There are no skyscrapers blocking your view, no E-marts, no noraebangs, no towering shops blaring K-pop, just the sky, the mountains and the dome tombs of the kings of past. Of course, these things do exist in Gyeongju, we are in Korea after all, but thankfully they are kept at arm's length away from the treasures that make this city so special and give you the breathing space to really appreciate it.

In the centre of town are the two main parks to see the dome tombs, Tumuli Park (1,500 won entrance fee), and across the road the Noseo-dong Tombs (free). The latter housing tombs were built between the 4th and 5th centuries, which contained two gold crowns that can now be seen at the 26

Gwangju News December 2012

Gyeongju National Museum (more on that later).

You can also see the largest Shilla tomb standing at 22 meters high with a circumference of 250 meters.

Both these parks are beautiful to relax in, although Tumuli Park does get more crowded, and of course, due respect must be paid to the tombs by not climbing on them.

The Gyeongju National Museum (free) is definitely worth a visit and is vast in its collection of artifacts from Gyeongju's past. A word of warning though, don't try walking from downtown to the museum. It is just that little bit too far and you will be too exhausted to see most of the museum. The highlight of going is to see the golden crowns of Shilla on display along with the relics that were pulled from the Anapji Pond (an artificial pond built inside the crown prince palace). All are stunning and gives you a sense of the richness of Korean history and culture that has all been wiped out in most places.

Down the road from the museum is Anapji Pond, a garden that once commemorated the unification of Korea under the Shilla Kingdom but now is just a backdrop for wedding photos. The scenery is beautiful and especially so at night with the reflection of the buildings in the pond. However, be prepared to have your elbows out to get a good spot for a photo, you will want to take a few. I got a little too Instragram-happy there!

The jewel in Gyeongju's crown would be the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto (both 4,000 won entrance

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Bulguksa

Bulguksa Pagoda fee). Both sites are out of town but can be easily reached by bus. I would recommend going to Bulguksa first as you have to pick up a connecting bus from there to reach Seokguram. You can also use your MyBi bus card on the local buses there.

Bulguksa is a fine authentic example of Shilla carpentry and artistry, nestled into the mountain; you can explore the terraces and pagodas in the complex. Being one of Korea's national treasures, the temple does get busy and here too there is no end to photo opportunities. As impressed as I was to see genuine Korean craft, I was also a little disappointed. Right in the central courtyard of the temple a metal structure has been erected that towers over all the terraces and totally destroys the view. It is extremely difficult to take a photo of the temple without this metal monstrosity getting in the way. Unfortunately the structure will remain in place until 2015.

Of course you exit the temple via the gift shop, but it is worth taking a look. They have a fine collection of Korean paintings of varying sizes and prices available, along with other souvenirs. If you are interested in picking up some artwork I would recommend stopping here.

Seokguram Grotto Bell

A short 20-minute bus ride further up the mountain from Bulguksa is Seokguram Grotto, where the statue of Sakyamuni Buddha sits. From here you can see stunning views of the whole Gyeongju region and even see out towards the East Sea. From the entrance it is a short walk through the woods to the grotto. Seokguram was constructed in the mid-eighth century from granite that was quarried in the north and brought to the current site on a narrow mountain path. Inside the grotto sits the Buddha, considered to be the protector of the land as he looks out to the East Sea. Even though tourists push and bump each other in the small space, all vying for the best view, you can still be overwhelmed by the beauty of the statue and stone carvings, and the peacefulness inside the grotto. Seokguram is a must-see in Gyeongju.

Not being too far from Andong you can enjoy the famous Andong Steamed Chicken, not to mention the famous Gyeongju bread that can be bought on every street! In the university area of the city there are a host of western-style restaurants and the usual array of coffee shops and hof bars.

Overall I would highly recommend Gyeongju. See where it all began and appreciate the natural and historical beauty on offer in this ancient city.

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health

Revitalize at Damyang Spa

By Doug Stuber Photos courtesy of Damyang Resort Spa

D

amyang, well known for its bamboo-lined roads and dozens of organic restaurants, also gives Gwangju a nearby top-notch spa and resort. A day visit to the spa is a scant 8,000 won. The outdoor pool and spa (summer season only, from the beginning of July to the end of September) cost 13,000 won, but it's two pools in one, with a nice deck and chairs to sunbathe in.

This warm-weather outdoor pool is the very best place to swim laps in the area; it is deep enough and cool enough to swim for a long time.

But, in the cold weather, the indoor spa, with four hot Jacuzzi-laden pools on each gender's side is even better, and only two short bus rides away.

(The men and women switch sides daily at the spa, as the two experiences are different.) But is the extra effort of two bus rides worth it, considering there are many other “wet spas” in Gwangju?

As a comparison, the Cinus spa in Buk-gu, near Chonnam National University offers three pools ranging from 36 to 44 degrees Celsius, and one cold bath that a polar bear might find chilly. Only the cold bath offers a straight-down heavy blast acting as a shoulder massage. There is only one pool with Jacuzzis, and there are only two seats for Jacuzzi users, but at 39 degrees the pool is also heat therapy. They also have wet and dry saunas, and a heat-lamped area for lying down in. The locker room also offers a barber shop and shoe shine. A day visit to the spa costs 4,500 won (4,000 won if you buy ten tickets or more).

The Damyang Spa has all of that, plus Jacuzzi jets in every bath, and a powerful plunging hot-water “waterfall jet” that can work out any shoulder or back muscles' tightness, provided you can withstand its force. It also has a hot pool outside surrounded by bamboo, and gives bathers fresh cool air to breathe, a relief from the super-humid air inside. Damyang Spa calls these “event” pools, and the concept is fairly accurate, as each pool has a different body part targeted for Jacuzzi-massage relief.

Damyang Spa has one major health advantage to 28

Gwangju News December 2012

offer as well: mineral water. The spa is full of revitalizing mineral water, but not the odorous sulfur variety. Also, as mentioned, the two sides of the spa are considerably different. The same amount of saunas and baths are offered, but the atmosphere changes, both inside and out.

Between the two sides is a full-service Korean-fare restaurant, and a very small convenience store.

The restaurant looks out on the outdoor pool, and thus is the site of much family activity in warm months.

For those new to public baths, be prepared to hang out in the nude. Anywhere from 20 to 250 people might be skipping from one pool to

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travels north through town, also stopping at Malbau Market and many other stations before traveling on to Damyang. Once in Damyang, a bus runs every 30 minutes right to the spa. Thus, transportation plus spa fee will come to less than a 3-D movie at CGV. Staying in the hotel is a wonderful experience, but not on everyone's budget, as rooms range from 157,000 won to 316,000 won on weekdays and 174,900 won to 352,000 won on weekends on high season (May 1 to January 31), depending on size and style. The hardest thing about a day visit though, is having to leave.

another, as the ample locker rooms in Damyang handle over 300 per side.

The spa opened July 19, 2003 according to hotel and resort manager Park Sang Jin. “Former Presidents Roh Moo-hyeon and Kim Dae-jung have stayed here, as well as the wife of Lee Kunhee, the chairman of Samsung Electronics," Jin said. "We welcome visitors from all over the world, but Japanese and Chinese people lead the list of foreign guests.” The hotel, with luxury rooms that are western-style or Korean-style (with or without beds) opened in November 2003, and sports a gourmet restaurant.

This cheap getaway starts with a ride on regional bus 311, which stops at the U-Square bus terminal, out in front where the city busses are. The 311 bus

For a family of four, Damyang also offers a Family Spa experience for four hours, which costs 80,000 won and comes with a personal TV room and stairs that directly connect to the swimming pool area.

The outdoor pool also has mineral water in it, one Jacuzzi and a winding, river-shaped pool that children and adults can float in on inner tubes. It is open during good weather.

Damyang Spa opens 365 days a year. In the winter time, the spa is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays and from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. on weekends.

To get a complete look at the facilities you can visit www.damyangspa.com (in Korean).

Damyang Resort Spa 담양리조트온천 Address: 399 Wonyul-ri, Geumseong-myeon, Damyanggun, Jeollanam-do Phone: 061-380-5000 (hotel), 061-380-5111 (spa) Gwangju News December 2012

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travel

GIC Tour Annual Review

By Warren Parsons Photos courtesy of GIC

Hiking in Mt. Wolchul, Yeongam

D

ecember, with the cold of winter, ends the 2012 GIC tour season. An adventurous twoday trip to Yeosu, with an overnight stay in a seaside temple, provided an exciting final program for the year. Highlights from the trip included: the interesting historical legacies of Seonso and Jinamgwan, the delicious and healthy vegetarian cuisine, and the mountainous vistas of the South Sea. Together with the great participants that make every tour possible and the helpful volunteers and staff workers from the GIC, the right elements combined to make another enjoyable experience.

Food is always an important part of each GIC tour. When traveling, tasting new foods and learning about the local cuisine allow visitors to have a better appreciation of the people and the place. Every destination has a distinct flavor, and the restaurants are carefully selected to show this unique character. Naju in April is a perennial favorite with great sights and great weather not to mention great eating. Hearty beef soup, fresh teas, and organic soybean products brought participants to the heart, soul, and stomach of Jeollanam-do.

In September, after a morning of trekking through Mt. Wolchul National park, visitors to Yeongam met an onslaught of a meal starting with sliced free-range chicken served raw and ending three courses later with a hot bowl of porridge made from the stock of the same bird. One of the most

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popular and far out meals of the year was a pork cutlet and pizza set above the waves of the sea

by Jindo in October. Eating was an activity in itself. Menu items varied and the reactions were always mixed, but no one ever was left unable to comment over a full table with good company.

Understanding gives people knowledge, perspective and hopefully an opinion about the places they visit. To the chagrin of some and the pleasure of most, each day provided a healthy dose of history and culture. In Gochang, with cold spring breezes, eager ears listened to descriptions of Baekje temple life, the history of Dolmen construction in pre-historic Korea, and the vicissitudes of invasion and conquest by the Japanese. Guests to Damyang learned about the romantic poetry of exile and the rustic developments in porcelain ware during the

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Joseon Dynasty. While on Wando, the charismatic pirate hunter and trader Jangbogo shared his fantastic stories. Regardless of age, gender, or nationality, all concurred wisdom helps the world go round.

Nature is constantly beautiful, and is never left out of a single tour. Mountains and rivers, islands and coastlines, and farmland with forests fill in the gaps betweens the cities and villages of the South Province. The heights of Nogodan and Jirisan in Gurye enlightened viewers on the most auspicious day of the Buddha in May. Typhoon rain and wind greeted sun-seekers to Sinji Island and the golden sands of Myeongsasimni beach during the early weeks of summer. Children and teenagers inspired the older at heart to shed some layers and barefoot their way over the rocks, through the rapid streams of the Wonhyo Valley to cool off in the midsummer heat on Mt. Mudeung. On White Quartz beach in Yeonggwang, finding some respite from the late August heat proved to be difficult, but for some resourceful channeling of muddy waters and crusty applications of the grayish clay.

Top: Group photo at Mt. Jiri, Gurye Above: Team game at salt pond experience in Yeonggwang.

Previous page: Participants making sand castle at Myeongsasimni Beach in Wando

Given all the excitement of 2012, the next round of tours in 2013 should provide just as much if not more. Popular destinations will be revisited with new twists, and fresh itineraries are in the mix for different challenges in different locations. Look out for repeat visits to favorite locales such as Naju, Wando and Mt. Jiri, but also for first-time excursions to Boseong, Jangheung, Namwon and Goheung in the year to come.

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travel

Angkor: Jewel in the Crown of Cambodia

By Carl Hedinger Photos by Christina Riley

O

ne small conversation will sometimes nudge us toward something big. During a party while chatting with friends about the typical places that we expats tend to visit (Thailand, etc.), I met someone on holiday from Cambodia. Working there for some time and teaching English, she focused mostly on helping with community development. Her description of daily life really captivated me.

In comparison to Korea, she said, “This country is easy. Down there is a country where people still understand life, which sometimes involves doing without.” That conversation really stuck with me.

This person really is doing something in a place where help is needed, I thought to myself. Some of us come to Korea to enjoy an easy life and take certain things for granted. For example, what would some of us do without our easily acquired electronics and the planet's fastest internet connection?

I kept digging into Cambodia. Further conversations and readings led me to the storied Khmer Empire, which ruled much of Southeast Asia through the 15th century. Amid lots of recent speculation and hypothesizing, nobody really knows what happened to the Khmer Empire.

The empire's vast collection of temples were re-discovered by a French archaeologist at the beginning of the 20th century and led to a new wave of interest in the Khmer. A temple restoration effort commenced but stopped in the 1960s. The rising

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turmoil in the region and eventual civil war that tore the country apart forced the work to cease.

Nevertheless, my interest lay in exploring the region's glory days. Getting to Angkor entails going through Siem Reap, a city in Cambodia's northwest. After passing through customs, we departed in a tuktuk with “Mr. Jim” and drove through the city on the way to our room. Siem Reap is an interesting place. It is a place full of character and has many things to do for travelers who might be “templed out” from Angkor.

Standing in at around 150,000 people, the city heavily depends on tourists from Asia and elsewhere that come to see the Khmer ruins each year.

In order to get around for the duration of our stay, my fiancé and I asked Jim to “take us around Angkor for a few days” and showed him a map of the place. Being an experienced tour guide and having a strong command of English, Jim offered to drive us to the “important” stops of Angkor. The former Khmer capital is huge and requires lots of road travel to get around. We barely scratched the surface, but after 15 hours and over two days driving around Angkor, we visited 13 temples in all. Here are some highlights: Banteay Srei Banteay Srei is known as the “Temple of Women” and is a beautiful place.

Construction h e r e

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This page and previous page: Angkor Wat

began in 967 A.D. and it is thought to be the only Angkor temple not commissioned by a king.

Thanks to the absolutely vibrant colors and structures within this complex, it is commonly known as the “jewel in the crown of Angkor art.”

Kbal Spean Reaching Kbal Spean was a long but worthwhile journey. Situated 50 kilometers northeast of Angkor, it is aptly referred to as the “River of 1,000 Lingas”.

These stone carvings (Linga) that appear in the water are everywhere at Kbal Spean. Each Linga represents Shiva, whose importance cannot be understated in Hindu traditions. The photo on the top right on the next page represents a “LingaYoni,” said to combine the forces of Shiva (Linga) and the goddess Shakti (Yoni).

Preah Khan This was the last temple we visited on our first day at Angkor. Preah Khan was one of many 12th century temples built for Jayavarman VII. Known for its maze of corridors, this complex's massive size certainly suggests its importance within the Khmer Empire.

Angkor Wat Angkor Wat is the largest religious complex in the world. First built as a Hindu temple in the 12th century during the reign of Khmer King Suryavarman II, it was eventually converted to Theravada Buddhism. This site is also noted for combining two Khmer architecture plans: The “temple mountain” and the “galleried temple.” If you are visiting Angkor but do not want to travel to the many temples in the area, this is definitely the one you should see. Words cannot fully describe this temple complex, but the words “awe-inspiring” or “breathtaking” come close.

Bayon Close to Angkor Wat, Bayon is a temple in the center of Angkor Thom (the last and most enduring Khmer capital). It was originally built as a Mahayana Buddhist Temple during the reign of King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th – early 13th century.

Over time, Hindu and Theravada Buddhist Khmer Kings modified the temple accordingly. The main attractions here are the many stone faces found on site.

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Bayon

Kbal Spean’s “Linga-Yoni”

Baphuon: “be careful!”

On the way to Baphuon

Ta Prohm Ta Prohm was built in the late 13th century and is located two kilometers east of Angkor Thom. It was founded as Mahayana Buddhist Temple and University during the reign of Khmer King Jayavarman VII. It is famous for the dominance of nature over it and also gained fame for its appearance in the filming of Tomb Raider.

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Gwangju News December 2012

Conclusion Ah, if only we could have stayed for more time in Siem Reap and especially Angkor. Even at the time of writing, I am longing for more time to walk around Angkor. It was a sad moment when we left Cambodia. The people have such big smiles that they use often, and everybody I encountered was full of hope and happiness. Though I did not include any people in the photos shared here, this trip was in fact about the people. It is about the greatness that these people once enjoyed and will hopefully see again in the future. Cambodia is on the rise and the increased commercial development that is taking place may change people's attitudes as more tourists come calling.

Regardless, I will always fondly remember Siem Reap and Angkor, and I'm certainly looking forward to going back.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM Page 35

Home Pages Want to write about news from your country?

Contact the Editor for more information: gwangjunews@gmail.com.

Ireland

Vietnam

Canada

By Patrick Conway

By Nguyen Thi Le Hoa

By Ally Sztrimbely

Goodbye 2012!

Was it a good or bad year for the Emerald Isle? There are plenty of obvious negatives: economy still down the toilet, soccer team mauled at the Euros and terrorism refusing to completely go away in the North. On the upside, Leinster brought more European glory in rugby, our new president raised national spirits and, Mayo people excepted, we all were happy to see Donegal collect only their second-ever All-Ireland. No visits from queens or presidents this year to get us on CNN. Hopes for 2013 then? Derry will be a city of culture and will host the AllIreland Fleadh. Please God, let it all pass off peacefully.

IT Training for Disabled Youngsters The 2009 housing and population census showed that only 66.5 percent of disabled children aged six to ten go to school. Nearly 30 percent of disabled adults are illiterate whereas the corresponding rate in non-disabled adults is less than one-half of a percent.

Nearly 500 children with disabilities will be given an educational boost.

The two-year project titled "Enhancing Access and Quality of Inclusive Education of Children with Disability through Information Communication Technology" will provide youngsters aged six to 15 with technology designed to meet their specific learning requirements.

This project's main activities focus on applying IT to help disabled children with their studies, including software with screen readers for the visually impaired, setting up video lectures for the deaf and setting up remote learning models for children who cannot go to school. The project is planned to run in Ha Noi, HCM City, Thai Nguyen and Quang Binh until the end of 2014. Conducted by the Ministry of Education and Training, the project received nearly US $500,000 supported from the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) and Catholic Relief Services (CRS).

Reclaiming our Mounties Canada's Royal Canadian Mounted Police – more widely known as the RCMP, or simply "the Mounties" have long formed part of the iconic image of Canada. In the past year, however, it had become evident that, in addition to being Canada's national police force, the RCMP was somewhat of an "old boys club." Many of even the highest-ranking women have come forward with allegations of a longstanding culture of sexual harassment within the force. Despite these issues the RCMP have come a long way in the past year toward instituting a culture change on all levels. This past month, 20 openly LGBT members filmed a ten-minute video documenting their experiences as LGBT youth and while coming out to their friends and families. Actions such as these, in support of an inclusive, tolerant and welcoming society, are making Canadians once again proud to claim the Mounties as their own. Where would we be without our national icons, eh?

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health

A History and Use of Ondol: Korea's Traditional Heating System

By Andrew Sweeney Photos by Karina Prananto

The ondol, Korea's traditional underfloor heating system, has not only heated the houses of Korea for thousands of years, it has also, by its very use, shaped and landscaped Korean culture and lifestyle as we witness and experience it to this very day.

T

he first documented usage of the ondol in Korea's history has been recorded at an archaeological site in Unggi, Hamgyeongbuk-do, in present-day North Korea.

This particular find of the ondol has been dated as far back as the Bronze Age, circa 1000 B.C.E. The word ondol, meaning “warm stone,� was not always the term used to describe Korea's traditional underfloor heating system. The term gudeul, which has the same meaning as ondol, has been recorded as the term used colloquially for the modern day ondol in Korea for over two thousand years. Korean historians have recorded the use of ondol in traditional Korean housing, called hanok, as beginning around the end of the 19th century.

Korean homes use the ondol heating system to warm their houses against the bitter cold that resides in Korea during the winter months. The primary difference between today's heating systems and the original ondol is that today a homeowner can turn his heating system on by a flick of a switch, whereas traditionally the initial heat would have to be generated by lighting a fire. The principles, however, remain the same. The ondol warms a home by transferring heat via under-floor flues, or passages.

This system is unique in its method because it heats a room, or living space, from the outside, as opposed to the typical Western-style heating system, which dictates that the heat should come from inside the room which you are trying to heat.

It achieves this, heating a space from outside, 36 Gwangju News December 2012

through its structure. Each part of its structure provides a specific service; a synergy takes place.

Firstly, the heat is created in agungi, a furnace, located in the kitchen, where firewood is burned.

The hot air is filtered through horizontal flue passageways that run beneath the room's floor, connecting the burning furnace to the chimney located at the opposite side of the house. Hot air could then move along the flues, heating the stone, ondol and mud floor. For this process to succeed, two conflicting requirements had to be met. For the fuel to burn well, its smoke had to pass quickly through the flues and go out of the chimney for any heat to generate under the floors.

Flues that were straight and short were best for that purpose. For the heat from the fire to warm the floor, however, the hot air and smoke had to stay in the flues as long as possible. To accomplish this, the flues were made to cover the area under the whole floor, thus preventing the hot air from going out through the chimney too quickly. Thus, the heat would circulate the room as much as possible before exiting through the chimney.

Dealing with a dangerous element such as fire brought its difficulties, such as the potential for the flames coming from a burning furnace to damage the house itself. To overcome such a difficulty, Korea's ancestors, remarkably, divided the flame from the smoke. The flame would be sent horizontally, against its very nature to rise vertically.

This was achieved by having a flue entry located beside the furnace. This was essential as it would not allow the smoke to travel upward, causing the flame to go out too soon. And as the flame would pass through the flue entrance, it would be guided

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Above: Old furnace Right: Exhaust pipes

through the network of passages with the smoke.

Traditionally, the ondol was used primarily for two things, heating a home and cooking. With the latter, when a fire was lighted in the furnace to cook rice for dinner, the heat would not only cook the rice as was expected, but the heat would remain inside the home until the next morning, thus keeping the house warm throughout the night. The smoke, in addition, was put to its maximum usage.

Traditional Korean houses, hanok, due to being constructed with wood primarily, were extremely prone to insects, fungi, bacteria and other worrying hygienic problems attacking a home.

However, by lighting a fire, thus causing smoke, the smoke would become a natural sanitizer for the home, killing germs and bacteria as it filtered through the flues. It is incredible to think that the ancestors of Korea, thousands of years ago, were equipped with the knowledge and wisdom to use one of the elements to its full potential, turning a natural danger, fire, into something that both heats and sanitizes a home all at once.

We cannot but admire the ondol system, particularly if you come from the “Western world�, where the individual home relies on oil, a natural resource in diminishing supply but in high demand, to heat homes. The ondol also retains more heat than lighting a fire inside the room you intend to heat. It achieves this as the smoke never enters the room, it remains in the flues.

On a final note, it cannot be stressed enough just how pivotal the ondol system was in landscaping Korean culture and lifestyle. This is evidenced the first time you arrived in Korea and enter a living space or restaurant. The first thing you do is take off your shoes, and more than likely, you sit down on the floor. When you become aware of the ondol heating system, it is logical and makes perfect sense as to why Korean people sit on the floor, for the floor is warmer than the air that is circulating around, thus sitting on a chair would not be as comfortable as sitting on the floor.

The ondol heating system is distinctly Korean. It dates back to the pre-historic age, and as a consequence it is embedded into Korean folklore and tradition. It is remarkable how intuitive and clever Korean ancestors were when creating such a dynamic piece of architecture. It has also given added comfort to one of Korea's unique and distinctive cultural traits, using the floor as the social space, and not a higher table and chairs, to come together to talk, eat and share in one another's company. This is, I am sure, something we all treasure about Korea.

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community

Browsing Through Aladin's Bookstore Words and photos by Gabriel Ward and Karina Prananto

A

nybody who reads the books section of the New York Times or The Guardian, or any book blog, will no doubt be familiar with the incessant articles talking of the imminent death of books and the book publishing industry as we know it.

Even if this is true in the western world, and that is debatable, I have often found myself thinking that this does not seem to be the case at all in Korea.

The bookstore at the bus terminal is frequently busy, with people happily reading books selected from the shelves, as well as actually buying them. I have always found it frustrating that the store's English book section is rather lackluster, for I miss being able to walk into my favorite bookstore back home and breathe in all the books. To spend time perusing, taking books from the shelves, holding them, and reading them, is what I enjoy.

Bookstores are one of the best places to come upon books by pure serendipity, as the cover of a book you did not know about might catch your eye. Also, having conversations and sharing your passion with the staff, who are more often than not strangers, but still fellow book lovers nonetheless, is wonderful. Purchasing books from the Internet is convenient and necessary in Korea, not to mention cheaper, but it is just not the same as shopping in a real bookstore.

Thus, I was both happy and surprised when I heard that a new secondhand bookstore had recently opened up downtown. It is called Aladin and located next to the Starbucks/ bookstore, just around the corner from the YMCA. As well as used books, it sells CDs and DVDs. It's a Korean chain store, and the Gwangju store opened on October 27th. Aladin has had an online store since 1999, and it is one of the biggest online bookstores in Korea, known for its cheap prices and wide range of books. The online store sells new and used books, as well as e-books and DVDs. You can find it at aladin.co.kr (in Korean).

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The exterior of the bookstore in downtown I recently went to the store to have a look. I got to the entrance and was delighted in seeing the books lining the walls. I then descended the stairs to get into the store, which is underground. When I got to the bottom of the stairs I was immediately in view of the store, which is capacious, brightly lit, and well stocked. For a second I thought it might actually be a purveyor of new books, as my connotations of small, cramped, dimly lit used bookstores were emphatically contradicted.

I was greeted by the sight of people of all ages, from children through to the elderly, sitting at tables happily reading books they had taken from the shelves right in front of me.

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I had a look around the store and from what I could tell there were books of all kinds on the shelves. Sadly, there were not many English books, save a few copies of Harry Potter and a few other titles, as Aladin has not been open in Gwangju long. Hopefully they will eventually get a decent supply in though. Despite the lack of English books, I still really enjoyed having a look around the store.

It made me happy to see that people still want to read physical books, even in Korea where everybody seems to be attached to a screen of some form or another, and wi-fi connections are in infinite supply. To know that there are stores like the one in Gwangju all over the country, which sound like they are doing a wonderful trade in used books, is heartening.

The store's opening hours are from 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. If you are interested in selling your books, take them along to the store and see what kind of an offer they will give you. There are a few conditions though: the books have to be in good condition, be on their database (which is large), and you have to register on their website at used.aladin.co.kr (it is all in Korean). Please don't forget about the GIC library and the regular book and bake sales though!

Top: Book displays as you enter the bookstore Above: The reading corner Gwangju News December 2012 39

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language study

For Your ELT Bookshelf

By Dr. Dave Shaffer Photo courtesy of KOTESOL

W

hat does your personal “library� of books on English language teaching (ELT) look like?

Or how large is the stock of TESL books that you have ready access to? From my experience with native English-speaking teachers here in Korea, their collection of ELT books is often few more than a handful. This is due somewhat to the transitory nature of the native English speaker in Korea, but the Korean English teacher often has few more. This is somewhat astounding to a sedentary person like me who adds approximately 50 ELT books and 50 academic journals to my library yearly. What is more, the books English teachers do have consist of many course books, and teachers' institutions' libraries are often thinly stocked with useful ELT books. This scarcity of ELT resources makes professional development extremely difficult for English teachers across the peninsula.

What I would like to do here is introduce a few books that I think could be quite helpful to many English teachers for their own professional development and for better performance in the classroom.

How to Teach English (HTE) HTE is written by Jeremy Harmer one of the most well-known authors and authorities on teacher training on the planet. This book is often used as a teacher training text, but is can be also be quite easily used for self-study. The 288-page book is designed as a practical guide for teachers who are in the early stages of their careers, but it is also an excellent refresher for the veteran teacher. As the book is a general introduction to the field it touches on almost all aspects of teaching: learners and teachers, learning and teaching, classroom management, the language system, teaching the four skills, lesson planning, using coursebooks, testing, and more. HTE comes with a DVD containing videoclips from actual classes and accompanying activities.

Learning Teaching (LT) As a guidebook for English language teachers, LT touches on all the major areas of teaching much 40 Gwangju News December 2012

Teachers Helping Teachers: A classroom activity being demonstrated by Nico Lorenzutti at the Nov. 10 Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL Chapter meeting. like HTE. However, at over 400 pages, LT is able to go into more detail. The strong point of the book is that it presents a large number of very effective activities and devotes a large amount of the book in guiding the teacher to create their own activities custom-made for their own classes. You will be very pleased with the 20 photocopiable resources that can be used for a variety of activities and a variety of language proficiency levels. This very successful book is now in its third edition and comes with an accompanying DVD featuring a lesson being taught as well as demonstrations of particular teaching techniques. The author, Jim Scrivener, is well-known as an ELT author and teacher trainer, and his notoriety is quickly increasing with recent publications.

The CELTA Course (TCC) TCC is designed as a CELTA (Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults) preparation course.

The CELTA is the most widely taken qualification in English language teaching and TCC is the only CELTA preparation course endorsed by Cambridge ESOL (English for speakers of other languages), the

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM Page 41

provider of the certificate. In addition, coauthor Scott Thornbury is a renowned ELT author and teacher trainer. TCC consists of over forty concise 4-6 page units. The main areas that this coursebook concentrates on are classroom teaching techniques and language awareness. Language awareness is an area that many native speakers of English are weak in, but it is an area that Thornbury is especially strong in. TCC was developed for classroom use; it has both a trainee book and a trainer's manual. For self-study, you will want both of the 200-page volumes.

The TKT Course (TTC) TTC is the preparation text for the Cambridge ESOL Teaching Knowledge Test (TKT), a qualification gaining in popularity. But whether you take the TKT or not, this book is an excellent source of teaching knowledge. Much like TCC, TTC consists of more than 30 compact 3-4 page units. Its forte is that it was designed for self-study and its heavier coverage of describing language and language skills as well as background to language learning and teaching.

How Languages Are Learned (HLAL) There are many books out on language acquisition, but HLAL is both accessible and relevant to the language teacher. Though teachers often think that understanding language acquisition is for the researcher rather than the teacher, the understanding of both first and second language acquisition that this book provides can very positively impact the language teacher's techniques and effectiveness. The fourth edition of this popular, award-winning book is coming out in January 2013.

Keep Talking (KT) Keep Talking is a book choked full of engaging discussion activities developed especially for fluency practice. It contains 123 activities of a wide variety of types and proficiency levels. For each activity, in addition to describing the procedure, the user is provided with the aim of the activity, proficiency level, type of organization (groups, pairs, etc.), preparation time and materials needed, and variations of the activity. A big plus is the 50-page section of worksheets at the back of the book which are to be used with the activities.

These are but a few of the many helpful ELT books available, but they are some of my favorites. For a look at what is available, access ELT publishers' online catalogues, or go to Amazon's book search and type in “English Language Teaching.� You will find much to satisfy your ELT needs.

Bibliography Harmer, Jeremy. (2007). How to Teach English. Pearson Longman. ISBN-13: 978-1405853095 Klippel, Friederike. (1984). Keep Talking: Communicative Fluency Activities for Language Teaching. Cambridge University Press. ISBN-13: 978-0521278713 Lightbown, Patsy, & Nina Spada. (2006). How Languages Are Learned (3rd ed.). Oxford University Press. ISBN-13: 978-0194422246 Scrivener, Jim. (2011). Learning Teaching: The Essential Guide to English Language Teaching (3rd ed.) .

Macmillan. ISBN-13: 978-0230729841 Thornbury, Scott, & Peter Watkins. (2007). The CELTA Course - Teacher's Manual. Cambridge University Press.

ISBN-13: 978-0521692076 Thornbury, Scott, & Peter Watkins. (2007). The CELTA Course - Trainee Book. Cambridge University Press. ISBN13: 978-8130903118 Ur, Penny, & Andrew Wright. (1992). Five-Minute Activities: A Resource Book of Short Activities. Cambridge University Press. ISBN-13: 978-0521397810

Upcoming Gwangju KOTESOL Events Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL December Chapter Meeting Date & Time: December 8 (Sat.), 1:30 p.m.

Place: Chosun University, Main Building (Bon-gwan) Featured Workshops (1) Implementing Writing Activities into the English Classroom in Korea Warren Merkel (Chonnam National University) (2) Good Teachers and Bad Coursebooks: Adapting Materials to Fit Your Class Henry Gerlits (Gwangju University) Swap-Shop: Share your teaching ideas and activities.

Admission: Free Next Meeting: January 19, 2013 (Sat.) Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL Website: http://koreatesol.org/gwangju Email: gwangju_kotesol@yahoo.com

David E. Shaffer is the current President of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL).

On behalf of the Chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings. Dr. Shaffer is a professor of English at Chosun University, where he has taught graduate, undergraduate, and postgraduate courses for many years. He is the recipient of the KOTESOL Lifetime Achievement Award.

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literature

Selected Poems by Moon In-soo Translated by Song Chae-Pyong and Anne Rashid

Moon In-soo (1945-) was born in Sungju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. He studied Korean literature at Dongkuk University in Seoul. He made his debut when he was 42 years old. He published poetry collections such as “All the Roads In the World Lead To Home” (1992), “The Horn” (1992), “The Nesting Mountain” (1999), “Shhh!” (2006), “Umbilical Cord” (2008) and “The Sound of Silence” (2012). His prestigious literary awards include the Kim Dal-jin Literary Award (2000), the No Jak Literary Award (2003) and the Meedang Literary Award (2007).

Shhh I have been to his father's funeral.

He told me a story: he, who had passed his sixtieth year, held his father, beyond 90 and helped him urinate. Even though life's important controls had left the old body, his mind was still like a lantern. Afraid that the old man might feel hopeless, he helped him, half joking and half playing the baby, saying “Father, shhh, shhh, all right, all, right, you must feel good.”

When he held his father, it was as if he entered deep into the whole body. When he held his father like that as though giving back to the body, how much might the old man have tried to shrink himself to make himself smaller and lighter? His urine thread cut off frequently, but such a long thread that the son again and again tried to tie it down to the earth pitifully, but the father with difficulty might sever it now. Shhh, Shhh! The universe must be quiet. *In Korean, this word refers to not only a way to make someone hush, but also is used as an onomatopoeia to help children urinate.

쉬 그의 상가엘 다녀왔습니다. 환갑을 지난 그가 아흔이 넘은 그의 아버지를 안고 오줌을 뉜 이야기를 들었습니다. 생의 여러 요긴한 동작들이 노구를 떠났으므로, 하지만 정신은 아직 초롱 같았으므로 노인께서 참 난감해 하실까봐 "아버지, 쉬, 쉬이, 어이쿠, 어이쿠, 시원허시것다아"농하듯 어리 광부리듯 그렇게 오줌을 뉘였다고 합니다. 온 몸, 온 몸으로 사무쳐 들어가듯 아, 몸 갚아드리듯 그렇게 그가 아버지를 안고 있을 때 노인은 또 얼마나 더 작게, 더 가볍게 몸 움 츠리려 애썼을까요. 툭, 툭, 끊기는 오줌발, 그러나 그 길고 긴 뜨신 끈, 아들은 자꾸 안타까이 땅에 붙들어 매려 했을 것이고 아버지 는 이제 힘겹게 마저 풀고 있었겠지요. 쉬, 쉬! 우주가 참 조용하였겠습니다.

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Dangling The grandmother who lives alone visits the district office. So bent, she looks like a snail.

She walks up the alley unbearably slowly, as if licking her life, hiding her hungry belly, folded in upon itself.

At the end of the serpentine alleyway, she squats down alone, dangling; she resumes walking and rests again. Below the electric pole, why, a dandelion blossom is yellow. At the bottom, the end of her memory appears yellow.

Yellow, starved of milk. When are you going to climb over the sky's summit, dangling?

As the kettle's top breaks off, a birds flies away some point in time.

꼭지 독거노인 저 할머니 동사무소 간다. 잔뜩 꼬부라져 달팽이 같다 그렇게 고픈 배 접어감추며 여생을 핥는지, 참 애터지게 느리게 골목길 걸어올라간다. 골목길 꼬불꼬불한 끝에 달랑 쪼그리고 앉아 꼭지야, 걷다가 또 쉬는데 전봇대 아래 웬 민들레 꽃 한 송이 노랗다. 바닥에 기억의 끝이 노랗다. 젖배 곯아 노랗다. 이년의 꼭지야 그 언제 하늘 꼭대기도 넘어가랴. 주전자 꼭다리 떨어져나가듯 저, 어느 한점 시간처럼 새 날아간다.

The Moon's Bare Foot

달의 맨발

The Moon lingers for a long while, and she, too, crosses the river again awkwardly via the iron railway bridge.

Why are these shoes here?

Wearing the clouds, the Moon has been dark for a moment, and is barefoot again.

Some woman's feet – they stink.

달이 한참 뭉그적거리다가 저도 한강, 철교를 따라 어설프게 건너본다. 여기, 웬 운동화? 구름을 신고 잠깐 어두웠던 달, 다시 맨발이다. 어떤 여자의 발 고린내가 차다.

Love: Making a Long Distance Phone Call

사랑, 오래 통화 중인 것

So it's raining over there?

It's bright and sunny here.

Your sadness dries up little by little.

I am slowly getting drenched.

그곳은 비 온다고? 이곳은 화창하다. 그대 슬픔 조금, 조금씩 마른다. 나는, 천천히 젖는다.

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A very short collection of poetry

By Ashe Middleton Photo courtesy of photos-for-you.com

Dusk purple grey

highlighted pink slow gyration of cool air against mountain curves shiver of green and gold a land without its tiger a body the breath is mist

risen

white like bone against tea dark skin from water

Gaia

Nju

She breathes

body

in tidal pools the wind stretches a languid

uncovered earth cool bodies

soon,

over

formed

empty space

to one another

she whispers sinks salt lips against stone the tide surges in pouring over her.

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and shared

Gwangju News December 2012

to wake in cold milk iced pears butterfly fingertips drifting over underbellies under covers “it is not the dawn� stay drink of me it is good to be unafraid

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community

My Korea My Korea is a new column which represents the voice of young Korean University students eager to share their stories and experiences.

Wonder Place Words and photos by Lee Hyemin

I

always go to Wonder Place with my friends or boyfriend whenever I go shopping in Chungjang-dong. The store is three stories tall.

There are vintage styles and unique men's clothing in the basement, basic men's clothing on the first floor, and women's styles on the second floor.

Wonder Place features a modern interior design and also unusual and fun furniture throughout the store.

My favorite thing about the store is the music. As soon as I open the main door, I hear loud music with an exciting beat that makes my heart race.

Electronic music is the most popular kind.

When you enter, you can see employees everywhere. They reply kindly and are not a burden to customers, which is different from other stores.

The style and appearance of the staff that work there is also top notch.

People go there regardless of sex or age because there are a variety of styles and lots of unique products displayed such as bags, accessories, and eye catching shoes.

Wonder Place is not expensive considering the luxurious atmosphere of the store. When compared to other stores, Wonder Place has similar prices.

I recommend that you shop there rather than other clothing shops because you can buy the most unique items at good prices. In particular, you can buy jeans there that make your legs look a little more beautiful. Even though they are more expensive than other shops at around 5,000 to 20,000 won more, it is worth it.

Wonder Place is located in Geumnam-ro 4-ga on Chungjang Street 50 meters from Zara in a large brown building. If you know the building, you can easily find it!

If you want something unique or truly fashionable vintage looks, men and women of all ages can change their style for the better at Wonder Place.

Wonder Place Address: 9-1 Geumnam-ro 3-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju Phone: 062-385-0722 Directions: Buses no. 7, 9, 36, 51, 57, 61, 95, 518, 1187 and get off at Geumnam-ro 4-ga Station (금남로 4가역)

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fashion

Fash-On with xxl jjdp

My Favorite Fall Things

By jjdp Photos by HSH

Shot on location at Sajik Park, Gwangju

H

ark back to the Sound of Music; raindrops on roses, and whiskers on kittens, bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens, brown paper packages tied up with strings, what are a few of your favorite things?

Autumn in Korea tops the list amongst some of mine. The pleasure of taking a long lazy walk in the afternoon, sipping on a delicious toffee-nut latte, and turning on my favorite mellow K-pop like Yoon Gun while wandering through the park feeling the crisp breeze: Heaven. The scene becomes even better when the wind picks up and all of a sudden I'm caught in a mini storm of flame colored foliage that gently floats to the ground. Taking a deep breath and appreciating the small wonders, could this be what Julie Andrews was on about? With all this amazing inspiration from nature around us it's not hard to adopt some aspects of it into the way we dress for this season.

Being inspired and having your imagination set ablaze with bright yellow and reds have come just at the right time. Some might want to update to their closets, or entirely redefine and restructure them. Go with it, you only live once.

The main color focus for this edition is natural hues, in particular mustard. This color has transitioned amazingly well from spring/summer '12 and is here to see you through to keep you warm and on trend all winter long. This shock hue took people by surprise and it is still gaining attention and followers.

Even I had my doubts about this being more than a fad. My previous train of thought being that mustard is an accompaniment for hotdogs and roast beef, and not the color de jour.

Oh, how my palate has evolved with this warm glowing shade now considered refreshing and playful. Add it to your wardrobe in slight smatterings and dashes much like you would to a hotdog or in cooking. But always remember that too much can overwhelm the palate as well as the eyes. Strive to get the right balance and serve up a great autumnal Fash-on feast.

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The first look I put together is a lightweight mustard utility coat that can be worn as outerwear or just as easily underneath some layers to add a burst of color. It also works as an element to color-block with. This can be achieved by wearing it with a bright colored pair of jeans, or downplay it with some neutral jeans inspired by nature. I have chosen a pair of timber-brown jeans, which is this fall/winter's update of the traditional light tan chino of summer. These colors go overwhelmingly well together because they form part of nature's palette and you can't go wrong combining various shades of browns, dark greens, and even black.

For the second look I have layered a black denim shirt, a standard for 2012, and a mustard sleeveless cardigan. This is more a daytime look, or for when you remove your layers but still want to be noticed.

Complete the look with a warm wooly hat as it is getting a bit nippy out. You always want to be prepared to keep your extremities warm..

Finally to keep you really toasty in the approaching weather invest in an all-round durable waterproof coat for winter. I find that a strong natural neutral color such as hunter green works well. This coat is 100% cotton. It is specially treated for the elements is lined with sheep fur on the inside and can be layered with virtually anything. It is also a great transition within the seasons as the lining is removable so it can be used for the spring/summer seasons as well. Complete this look by adding

rounded tortoise shell glasses for an indie-inspired twist on your fall foliage outings.

I would also suggest that you start preparing now for a freezing Korean winter by investing in a pair of heavy duty boots. Once the cold weather sets in you will be thankful for dry and warm feet. There is nothing quite as irritating as sub-zero temperatures while slipping and sliding around with wet feet.

There are some great stores downtown that have an excellent array of boots for the season so be prepared and don't get caught unaware.

Lastly, please don't forget that in the harsher weather, taking care of winter fabrics is also very important. One should always use a delicate fabric softener and let clothing dry properly when caught in a slight flurry or some rain, as your clothes could develop mold. Easier still, take your coat into your local dry cleaners where they will gladly do all the hard work, and you can rest assured that you didn't mess anything up.

Enjoy frolicking in the foliage, wrap up warmly, and Season's Greetings!

Clothing Mustard Utility Jacket at 8seconds.com Black denim shirt (Gap) at Shinsegae Department Store Jacket (Giordano) at Shinsegae Department Store Boots (Guess) Jeans (Calvin Klein) at Lotte Department store Hat & Glasses (TimeZone) at downtown

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culture

Behind the Myth: Exploring Korean Tradition This series of articles will shed light on some Korean myths, folklore, traditions and superstitions. Every country has their own share of beliefs, fact or fiction, and many foreigners living in Korea are yet to hear or understand the basis of various Korean beliefs as they become apparent.

Korean Ghosts: Fishin' for Gwishin

By Stephen Redeker

“B

ehind the Myth" covered the Korean superstition about "moving day spirits following and haunting you on your moving day" in the October issue. Let's keep it going with the scary stuff and reveal some more spooky beliefs: “Korean style” ghosts.

What exactly are Korean style ghosts? There are precisely four types of ghosts, called "gwishin" (귀 신) which are believed to be the spirits of the deceased who have not fulfilled their life's purpose. They are stuck in the afterlife, still haunting the living, not able to cross over to "the other side", waiting for their souls to be appeased.

The origins of these spiritual beliefs stem from Shamanism, an ancient religion that many in Korea still follow, which deals with spirits in the natural world. Numerous shamanistic rituals deal with appeasing these gwishin. Subsequently, there are many Korean horror films which feature ghosts looking like deathly pale girls wearing white gowns. Their lips are blood red and they seem to float on air. This resembles the ghost called "cheonyeo-gwishin".

Cheonyeo-gwishin (처녀귀신) is the most common of the four ghosts. She is the virgin ghost, the girl who could not serve her purpose in life. It was very difficult to be a woman in early Korean times; her life would consist of only serving her father, her husband and her children. If she had failed in achieving her wish and had lifelong resentment, her life would have been meaningless and her soul would still be stuck in our world. This ghost wears traditional white mourning clothes called "sobok" (소복) and wears her long hair down because she does not have the right to wear her hair up, as married women did traditionally. She holds a grudge over those who may have caused her harm and continues to haunt them. The Ring is 48

Gwangju News December 2012

A depiction of a cheonyeo-gwishin

a film based on an earlier Japanese horror movie which features a ghost such as this.

The male equivalent to the cheonyeo-gwishin ghost is called the "chonggak-gwishin (총각귀신)".

Also known as "mongdal-gwishin” (몽달귀신), he is the unmarried bachelor ghost. Sometimes there are shamanistic rituals that aim to unite both forms of ghosts, cheonyeo and chonggak gwishin, so that they may be married. If successful, their life would be completed and satisfied (in a spiritual sense). At peace, they may then be permitted to heaven. In pop culture and films, the female ghost is much more common than the male version.

Some people say drowning is the worst way to die.

Well, there's a ghost for that. A mulgwishin (물귀신) is the spirit of someone who drowned; a water ghost. These ghosts are very lonely living in the

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cold water where they died, so they may pull you down into the watery depths if you are not careful.

This spirit has led to the Korean term 물귀신 작전¸ (mulgwishin jakjeon) which translates to "water ghost tactics". This expression means someone is dragging you down to suffer along with them; a form of sabotage. It's something like the "I'm taking you down with me" expression.

The ghost named "dalgyal-gwishin" (달걀귀신) might be the strangest. It has an egg shape with no eyes, nose, mouth, or even arms and legs. According to legend, if one sees this egg shaped ghost, they will die. The ghost has no personality or discernable emotions or origins. This is the deadliest and most frightening ghost. Some say this ghost lives in the mountains and haunts those who traverse its paths.

Another ghost worth mentioning here is the "Nine Tailed Fox" ghost (구미호). Long ago, it was believed that certain animals could obtain human-like characteristics. This nine tailed fox is an example, as it can change into a beautiful woman and lure an unsuspecting man to his death (by eating out his liver). This ghost is mainly seen as an evil spirit, but a recent Korean romantic film called My Girlfriend is a Gumiho (내 여자친구는 구미호) totally changed that image. This film, starring Lee Seung-gi and Shin Minah, gives a very cute and bubbly depiction of the gumiho ghost. In the movie, the ghost is trying to have a successful relationship with her boyfriend in order to fully become a human!

Shin Min-ah as a “nine-tailed fox ghost” or gumiho in the film My Girlfriend is a Gumiho As in many other countries and cultures, Korea has its share of unique ghosts which are old beliefs carried down through the centuries. Although not as feared as they were in the past, they still serve their purposes as entertainment and a glimpse into what people once believed to be true. Now armed with an education in Korean "ghost lore", many of these popular Korean horror movies may have more meaning. How about some Hollywood remakes with a few gwishin in the plot? Wouldn't it be great to see a Korean version of Ghostbusters featuring all the ghosts mentioned above?

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food and drink

Taisho 타이쇼

Words and photos by Gabriel Ward

A

few weeks ago I went along to Asakusa, a Japanese restaurant (above Pho Bay on Wedding Street) to celebrate a friend's birthday. However when we got there, we discovered that they weren't serving sushi that evening – which was what my friend wanted to eat – as it was a Thursday.

Disappointed, we wandered down the road to another establishment called Taisho. I had noticed the place before, and was happy enough to check it out.

Being a Thursday night it was quiet when we arrived, however as a group of around eight people we quickly changed that. My first impression was that Taisho had a nice vibe to it. It was quite dark and small, giving it an intimate ambience. The staff were friendly and quickly arranged a couple of tables next to each other, and we were promptly seated.

To begin with, we ordered a couple of plates of sushi to share, with a range of salmon, tuna, and beef sushi. The kitchen was in plain sight, so we could see the chefs working away, and it wasn't long before we were eating delicious pieces of sushi. There were only eight pieces per plate, and there were four people to a plate, so it was hardly substantial. To be fair, around eight pieces of sushi to a plate is pretty standard at Japanese restaurants in Korea. Still this clearly wasn't going to suffice as a meal. So we ordered jjambbong noodles, and another noodle dish (but I am not sure of the name). We ordered another two plates of sushi as we enjoyed the first round.

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Gwangju News December 2012

We did not have to wait too long before our jjambbong arrived, and we eagerly dug in as by that stage we were famished. The broth of the jjambbong was amazing and gave the whole dish a wonderful flavor. It also had generous amounts of seafood and vegetables in it, as well as plenty of noodles. The other noodle dish took a little longer to arrive, as by this stage the restaurant had filled up (always a good sign), and so the chefs were busy trying to prepare everyone else's meals as well. I did not eat as much of that particular dish, as I enjoyed the jjambbong so much.

I would recommend Taisho as an enjoyable place to eat with a couple of friends. The atmosphere was really good and the food was great. We were easily the biggest party in the restaurant, though – the rest of the patrons were only groups of two.

From what I hear, Asakusa does quite big sushi platters that are reasonably priced as far as sushi goes. Furthermore, by all accounts the sushi there is fantastic, so Asakusa is a better bet if you are eating with a larger group of friends. But for a nice enjoyable evening with a couple of friends, Taisho is a perfectly good option.

To get to Taisho, go down Wedding Street. If you are walking towards the Kunsthalle, take the street on your right that has the little square/intersection on it, where Mix Lounge is. Taisho will be on your immediate right when you are looking down the street from Wedding Street – you really can't miss it.

Taisho 타이쇼 Address: 92 Gwangsan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Phone: 062-233-8570 Directions: Buses no. 6, 7, 9, 12, 55, 59, 70, 80, 98, 150, 151 and get off at Culture Complex (문화전당역)

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Sautéed Squid and Pork with Hot Pepper Paste 오삼불고기 Words and photos by Jo Ara

T

his food has been catching on among many Koreans as a lunch menu because it is highly nutritious and furthermore, inexpensive. Squid is a type of mollusk and is mostly caught from the East Sea in Korea. It contains a lot of taurine, which prevents heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes, and the list goes on. Samgyeopsal is pork, specifically the belly of the pig. Being composed of fat and lean meat, it is savory and smells good. With regard to nutrition, pork is rich in essential amino acids, polyunsaturated fat and vitamin B, so it decreases cholesterol.

Things to prepare

Cooking Method

Squid 120g, pork (samgyeopsal) 300g, onion 120g, hot pepper 5g, bean sprouts 100g, cooking oil 15ml, Korean hot pepper paste 15g, minced garlic 10g, sugar 15g, starch syrup 10g, soy sauce 45ml, sesame oil 15ml

1. Cut pork and squid into bite-sized pieces along with onions and hot peppers.

2. Put Korean hot pepper paste, minced garlic, sugar, starch syrup, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a bowl and mix.

3. Mix the sliced pork and squid with sauce, keep in sauce for 20-30 minutes.

4. Put cooking oil, marinated pork and squid in a heated pan and fry.

5. Sautéed squid and pork with hot pepper paste is done!

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health

VS Squat, Don't Sit

By Kristal Lee Images from www.cafe24.com

“S

quat, don't sit� should be the rallying cry for all those wanting better health.

We've been pooping wrong all along. As it turns outs, sitting while doing the deed is the sneaky culprit in many digestive and colorectal ailments such as hemorrhoids, constipation, colitis and colon cancer. If you don't suffer from any of these problems, you're not yet in the clear; gastrointestinal complications are a quickly-rising health risk for people across the globe. Colorectal cancer, for example, now appears among the top five deadliest cancers for all ethnic groups.

A major contributing factor to this epidemic is rapid acculturation, marked by high-fat diets and the increased use of the Western-style toilet.

Dietary failure, especially the lack of fiber, was once thought to be the most significant cause of nearly all digestive and colorectal problems but a new theory, supported and promoted by Stanford's gastrointestinal and colorectal cancer departments, posits that toilets and toilet posture are the real problem.

In an effort to determine the number one way to go number two, researchers recorded how long and how much effort it took people to do their business. Volunteers used the loo in three alternate

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Gwangju News December 2012

positions: sitting on a standard toilet, sitting on a low toilet, and squatting. Squatting took the least time and effort.

The result came as no surprise to some, such as gastroenterologist and co-author of What's Your Poo Telling You? and What's My Pee Telling Me? Dr. Sheth Anish. "There is definitely physiologic sense to squatting,� Shethm states, "Simply put, it straightens out the colon." Standing pushes the colon against the puborectalis muscle, the sling-like bundle of fibers that control the anal sphincter and passage of waste. Sitting only partially relaxes the muscle.

Squatting fully relaxes the muscle, making for a quick and easy evacuation of the bowels.

Sheth is not the only proponent of squatting; many experts argue that most gastrointestinal complications stem from the sitting and straining people do on the toilet. For this reason the squatting method is also recommended for pregnant women, children and people with Crohn's disease. Studies have linked the amount of time spent of the toilet to the amount of bowel problems people have.

However, this beckons the question, is it the chicken or the egg? Either way, leave the newspaper at the kitchen counter and focus all

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that brain power you'd otherwise be using to solve the back page crossword puzzle on proper toilet posture. It will do you a lot more good in the long run.

Though most of Korea has converted to the modern toilet there are a few strongholds where people still squat - out in the countryside, school bathrooms and highway rest stops. But how can you get in proper anorectal position?

A bench-like platform that wraps around the base of your toilet, the “Squatty Potty�, was created to allow people to squat at that perfect 35-degree angle. Worried this stool, no pun intended, will be an interior design faux pas? Worry not my fair bottomed friend, the Squatty Potty comes in three stylish designs: The Squatty Classic, Tao Bamboo, and the Squatty Eco. Starting at $34.95, the squatties are worth giving a shot. Aligning your colon may just be the first step to aligning your health.

Video Link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYcv6odWfTM (Video name: Squatty Potty-Toilet Stool: Squatting for proper toilet posture)

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Community Board Have something you want to share with the community?

Gwangju News’ community board provides a space for the community to announce club’s activity, special events and so on.

Please send us the information to gwangjunews@gmail.com.

It's coming back. The V-word will be heard again in 2013 . . . in Gwangju!

The Vagina Monologues

Director Leigh Hellman has started stirring the pot…again. Her efforts to raise awareness about stopping violence against women gave Gwangju its first taste ever of TVM. For V-Season 2013, V-Day Gwangju will be joining "One Billion Rising" by performing The Vagina Monologues in 2013.

Actresses Needed!

GJ TVM is looking for actresses! Auditions will be held during the winter months. Rehearsal and other fundraising events occur during the spring. TVM's final performance will also be in spring.

Contact the Director via Facebook Group: The Vagina Monologues in Gwangju 2013

Sung Bin Home for Girls Sung Bin Home for Girls is looking for creative/ active/ energetic/ outgoing/ enthusiastic long-term volunteers to join in our regular Saturday program. We would like you to give at least two Saturdays per month. Meet every Saturday at 1p.m. in front of downtown Starbucks. All are welcome. For more volunteering information please contact Daniel Lister at: daniellister7@hotmail.com.

2012 Christmas Book and Bake Sale: December 8 from 12 to 5 p.m. at the First Alleyway, downtown Gwangju. All proceeds will be used to help disadvantaged children in and around Gwangju. Read more about this event on page 19.

Looking for Nature and Wildlife Support Looking for videographers, interviewers and others to conduct some interviews of nature experts and habitats in South Korea. These are unpaid positions.

Needed are: - People to record a few interviews - People to take a day to video some habitat shots - People to translate or to provide captions/subtitles for video & interviews - People to help with design and layout of materials for multimedia project coordinated with Cornell University.

If interested please contact Maria Lisak at gwangjumaria@yahoo.com.

Come Try Yoga!

Vinyasa/Ashtanga style yoga class (either continuous flow or set series of postures).

Email meghan.paugh@facebook.com for more information and updates!

All levels welcome.

Yoga has many benefits including soothing the immune system and strengthening/toning the body inside and out. Connect to your breath. Set time in your schedule to take good care of yourself! 5,000 suggested donation if you have it. Money is donated to charity Sunday Evening Class: 5:30-7:00 p.m. in GIC. Facebook page: Gwangju Yoga 54

Gwangju News December 2012

Gwangju Inter FC The Gwangju international soccer team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly most weekends.

If you are interested in playing, email: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search ‘Gwangju Inter FC’ on Facebook.

Kittens to have They are free, but you need to vacinate them. They are Korean short hairs. The kittens are 8 months old.

Contact Lynne at 010-8692-9101 or e-mail lelie0072003@yahoo.com

Dance Workshop in GIC The dance workshop will be held every Tuesday from 6:30 p.m. by Angie Harley at the GIC. If you are interested in joining, please contact Angie at angiehartley1@gmail.com.

You will learn basic dance and create dance performance with specific theme in this workshop.

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Gwangju Ice Hockey Team Looking for men and women of all ages to join us every Saturday night from 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. at Yeomju Ice Rink near World Cup Stadium. If you are interested, contact either Andrew Dunne at atdunne@gmail.com or Chris Wilson at: kreeco@rogers.com

Midway between Kunsthalle and the Grand Hotel, across the main street at the traffic lights from the Crown Bakery.

On the 3rd floor of the T World building.

The Gwangju Photography Club The Gwangju Photography Club is a place where many different people can meet, share advice, give ideas, and practice photography.

Every month, the Photography Club goes on a photo outing to different places around the city and country to capture the moment and practice new techniques. Anyone is welcome to join the photography group and help share in the experience. To join the group, search Gwangju Photography Club on Facebook.

Have any questions about living in Gwangju?

Let us help you! Simply write us an e-mail with your inquiry to giccounseling@gmail.com and our volunteers will help you solve your problems about anything related to Gwangju.

Gwangju News December 2012

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