(EN) Gwangju News July 2017 #185

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I July 2017 Issue #185 I To Market, To Market ...

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Letter from the Editor

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July 2017, Issue No. 185 Published: July 4, 2017 Cover Photo: Dylan Goldby Cover Art & Design: Karina Prananto

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editors Online Editorial Team Creative Advisor Layout Editor Photo Editor Chief Proofreader Copy Editors Proofreaders Researchers

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Kelsey Rivers, Anastasia Traynin Nathan Fulkerson, Karina Prananto, Nguyen Huong (Sen) Joe Wabe Karina Prananto Lorryn Smit Eden Jones Brian Fitzroy, Joey Nunez, Gabi Nygaard, Kelsey Rivers Calen Cygan, Ynell Lumantao-Mondragon, Joey Nunez, Stephen Redeker Heo Suk-young, Jung Yu-jin, Kim Mi-yeon, Lee Hyo-jeong, Nguyen Huong (Sen)

uly is here, and with it comes the heat of summer – the major dog days of Chobok and Jungbok fall in July, and the Gwangju News is here with information on the dog days and their “delicacies.” We bring you many “hot” stories this month. Our feature is on the promise and plight of Gwangju’s traditional markets (“To Market, to Market...”). Another “hot” topic presented this month is homophobia in Korea, and still another is mental healthcare. We introduce a “hot” musician in Gwangju, Andrew Vlasblom, and some “hot” foods on a bun (Patty & Bun).

What isn’t hot, is really cool. We take you up the cool mountains of Nepal, and we take you to the coolest Nepali temple, Dhor Barahi Mandir. From the heights of Nepal, we take you to the depths of Danyang County with the stalactites and stalagmites of its cool caves. You will then want to go “Digging Deeper into Taiwan.”

When you get back to Gwangju, we have a cool, new barbershop to introduce to you, Club Hipster; a cool Language Lounge that meets weekly; and some cool Korean English-education history from right here in our fair city.

We have two cool football/soccer pieces for you – about fun and fundraising. Another cool “Kitchen Story,” and another cool fiction story.

Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

Cyber security, recycling, photography, a book review, a movie review... The July issue is just full of coolness, as well as being hot. But don’t just take my word for it, turn the page to the Contents, and select what you want to read first.

Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com E-mail: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.

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David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief

GwangjuNews gwangjunews GwangjuNewsGIC

July 2017

For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the Editor at: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr For advertising and subscription inquiries, contact karina@gic.or.kr

During the dog days of summer, many things slow down, but the Gwangju News is not one of them.

Rest assured that we will be a hustlin’ and a bustlin’ to bring the hottest topics and the just plain cool for you for next month. Enjoy.

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Gwangju News is the first public English magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

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Contents

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July 2017

July 2017 #185

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GWANGJU NEWS 03. Gwangju City News 04. Upcoming Events: July 40. GIC Talk Preview: Science and Religion: Friend or Foe? 56. Community Board ARTS & CULTURE 22. Photo Essay: Journey to Poon Hill, Nepal 26. Photo of the Month 42. Book Review: Shantaram by Gregory Roberts 43. Movie Review: Family Ties 44. Gwangju Writes: Tip of the Tongue OPINION 52. Cyber Security and Citizens’ Rights 54. Homophobia and Change in Modern Korea

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FEATURE 07. To Market, To Market...

14. Andrew Vlasblom, Talented Local Musician and Composer COMMUNITY 12. Gwangju Talks about Its Markets 20. Club Hipster, Gwangju’s Newest Barbershop 46. Breaking the Silence: Mental Healthcare Access in Gwangju 48. Expat Living: Recycling and Garbage Disposal EDUCATION 19. Gwangju’s Language Lounge Offers Korean and English to All 49. Talk to Me in Korean: Hospital & Pharmacy 52. KOTESOL: “English Education in Korea Has Changed”

TRAVEL 28. Around Korea: Danyang 36. Digging Deeper into Taiwan 38. Dhor Barahi Mandir: A Hindu Temple in Nepal FOOD & DRINKS 31. The Dog Days in Korea: An Attempt to Get the Facts Right About “Bosin-tang” 32. Where to Eat: Patty & Bun 34. Kitchen Stories: Braised Radish SPORTS 16. Football for a Cause 18. We Play Football to Become Family

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Gwangju City

News

Compiled by Jung Yu-jin and Karina Prananto

Korean Schools’ Irregular Workers Union Went on a Large Scale Strike Korean Schools’ Irregular Workers Union went on a large scale strike on June 29. In Gwangju, among some 3,700 members, about 1,000 took part in the strike, and in Jeonnam, some 2,000 out of 6,500 members participated.

With the strike, 30 percent of local schools had difficulties with running their meal program. In the city, 114 schools out of 327 had their school meal cancelled. Of these schools, 61 had their students bring lunch boxes while 46 schools provided supplementary food. Some schools even shortened class hours, while 213 schools ran their usual program.

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According to a survey conducted by the Korea Tourism and Hotel Industry Association, Gwangju has the lowest number of deluxe hotels among the 16 major cities and provinces across the nation.

The KIA Tigers are back as the solo leader in the KBO League, tying the record for the most hits in a single game. On June 29, the Tigers showered the Samsung Lions with 29 hits ending the game 22-1. The Tigers had 10 runs on 10 hits in the first 3 innings.

Based on the survey, Gwangju has only two deluxe hotels, which is less than half of the average compared to other metropolitan cities with similar population scales, such as Daegu with eight and Daejeon with four. And while the number of deluxe hotel rooms in Gwangju stands at 320, Daegu has some 1,300 and Daejeon has 880.

A Gwangju Tourism Association official pointed out that Gwangju has a population of about 1.5 million, and its lack of deluxe hotels exemplifies the poor tourism infrastructure of the city.

The Tourism Association affirmed that to become a culture capital city, more deluxe hotels are needed.

Twenty-nine hits in one game ties the record set by the Lotte Giants in the 2014 season against the Doosan Bears. Meanwhile, playing only two innings, the Samsung Lions pitcher Zach Petrick allowed 14 runs on 15 hits without any strikeouts. Petrick set a new record for allowing the most runs in one game for a starting pitcher in KBO League history. The previous record was set by Han Gi Joo of the KIA Tigers in the 2016 season. Han allowed 13 runs in a game against the Nexen Heroes.

July 2017

The workers are defined as “regular” by the Labor Ministry but are defined as “irregular” by the Education Ministry. Through the strike, they were seeking to be considered regular and permanent employees, along with receiving the higher pay that goes with the “regular” status.

KIA Tigers Get 29 Hits in One Game

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In Jeollanamdo, 240 schools out of 758 were unable to provide their school meal program. Of these, 109 schools had their students pack lunch while 42 schools served supplementary food, 63 cut class hours, and 26 had outdoor activities.

Gwangju Ranks Lowest in Nation in Number of Deluxe Hotels

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Upcoming Events July

Jeongnamjin Jangheung Water Festival

Gwangju Small Theater Festival

정남진 장흥 물축제

제20회 광주 소극장 연극축제

Also known as the Jeongnamjin Aqua Festival, this event is held around the end of July annually.

The Jeongnamjin Jangheung Water Festival goes beyond the conventional framework, offering a different range of summer- and water-themed events. Festival-goers will be introduced to an array of exciting and fun summer games and activities.

The programs are multi-dimensionally energetic, including laser and firework shows, hand fishing, a friendship exchange, and many more activities.

This is the venue where young artists unite to show off their talents. Dedicated to communication through the performing arts, the Haneul Madang offers an array of spectacles and entertaining activities for everyone.

Dates: July 28 through August 3 Address: Jangheung Tamjingang River and Pyeonbaek Forest Woodland, 21 Jangheung-ro, Jangheung-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 장흥군 장흥읍 장흥로 21 (장흥읍) Telephone: +82-61-863-7071 Website: http://www.jhwater.kr/ (Available only in Korean)

2. July 7-9: Art Hall Tong, 149-2 Jungang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju

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July 2017

GWANGJU NEWS

Compiled by Nguyen Huong (Sen)

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Dates: July 7 through 16 (Weekday events at 8 p.m., Weekend events at 4 p.m.)

Address: 1. July 7–9 & July 14–16: Yerin Small Theater, 23-1 Yesulgil, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 예술길 23-1, 예린소극장

광주광역시 동구 중앙로 149-2, 예술극장 통

3. July 14-16: CD Art Hall, 179 Seoam-daero, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 북구 서암대로 179, 씨디아트홀

Admission: 10,000 won for youth, 20,000 won for general admission Telephone: 062-523-7292 Website: http://cafe.daum.net/drama2003 (Available only in Korean)

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5 Regarded as a must-visit venue, Gangjin is the ultimate destination for those who want to explore the southern provinces and its varied historical cultural assets. Offering first-hand experience related to the region, the Gangjin Celadon Festival hosts an exhibition, a celadon sales hall, and a gift-giving event in the spirit of promoting the excellence of Goryeo celadon.

Dates: July 29 through August 4 Address: Areas of Gangjin Goryeo Celadon Kiln Site, 33 Cheongjachon-gil, Daegu-myeon, Gangjin-gun, Jeollanamdo 전라남도 강진군 대구면 청자촌길 33 (사당리)

Gangjin Celadon Festival 강진 청자축제

Telephone: +82-61-430-3331~4 Website: eng.gangjinfes.or.kr (Available in Korean, Chinese, English, and Japanese) Enjoy a one-of-a-kind festival at the Goheung Aerospace Festival, located at the Naro Space Center covering 87,000 square meters. Visitors will be able to view a lifesize replica of the Naro-1 space rocket, experience 3D and 4D theaters, and learn about the story of Korean aerospace in the 21st century.

Goheung Aerospace Festival 제10회 고흥 우주항공축제

Dates: July 29 through August 2 Address: Naro Space Center, 490 Naban-ro, Bongnaemyeon, Goheung-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 고흥군 봉래면 하반로 490 Admission: TBA Telephone: 061-830-5655 Website: http://festival.goheung.go.kr (Available only in Korean)

Bridge D. Market 브릿지 디 마켓

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광주광역시 동구 문화전당로 38, 아시아 문화전당

Admission: Free Telephone: 1899-5566 Website: acc.go.kr

July 2017

Dates: April 15 through November 25 • Summer (June–July): 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays • Spring/Autumn (April to May, September to November): 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. on Fridays, 2:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. on Saturdays Address: Asia Culture Center 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju 61485

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An open art market for everyone. Take a look around Bridge D. Market, enjoy street performances, participate in culture and art activities, and relish great food throughout the summer!

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GWANGJU THEATER

62 Chungjang-no 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC WAVE) TICKETS: 8,000 won INFORMATION: 062-224-5858 For more information, please visit: http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia and Hancinema

NO MONEY, NO FUTURE 노후대책없다 Genre: Documentary Director: Lee Dong-woo Film Length: 101 minutes Starring: Find the Spot, Scumraid, Banran Summary: Punk bands in Korea get invited to the biggest hardcore punk festival in Tokyo. This movie shows how one of the loudest and most active punk bands in Asia lives and delivers its message very closely and pleasantly.

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July 2017

HEDWIG AND THE ANGRY INCH 헤드윅 Genres: Drama, Comedy, Musical Director: John Cameron Mitchell Film Length: 95 minutes Starring: John Cameron Mitchell, Miriam Shor, Stephen Trask Summary: Based on Mitchell’s and Stephen Trask’s stage musical of the same name, the film follows a fictional rock band fronted by an East German transgender singer who survives a botched sex change operation. Hedwig subsequently develops a relationship with a younger man, Tommy, becoming his mentor and musical collaborator, only to have Tommy steal her music and move on without her.

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THE DAY AFTER 그후 Genre: Drama Director: Hong Sang-soo Film Length: 92 minutes Starring: Kwon Hae-hyo, Kim Min-hee, Jo Yoon-hee Summary: It is Areum’s first day of work at a small publisher. Bongwan, her boss, is a married man, but he loved and recently broke up with the woman who previously worked there. The memories of the woman who left weigh down on him. Bongwan’s wife finds a love note, bursts into the office and mistakes Areum for the woman who had an affair with her husband.

ASH FLOWER 재꽃 Genre: Drama Director: Park Suk-young Film Length: 93 minutes Starring: Jeong Ha-dam, Jang Hae-geum, Jeong Eunkyeong Summary: Like the weeds that grow within the cracks of asphalt, there is a child, Ha-dam, who lives an ordinary life in a quiet country village. An 11-yearold girl named Hae-byeol, who looks exactly like Hadam, comes claiming to find the father she had never met before. The country becomes confused with her appearance, and more chaos ensues.

FRANTZ 프란츠 Genre: Drama Director: François Ozon Film Length: 114 minutes Starring: Pierre Niney, Paula Beer Summary: In Quedlinburg, Germany, in 1919, a German woman, who is grieving over the death of her fiancé in World War I, is shocked when his grave is visited by Adrien, a Frenchman, who tells her that he was friends with Frantz in Paris before the war. The two characters bond over their shared connection against the background of community antagonism towards Adrien’s presence in their town. When Adrien details his relationship with Frantz, their relationship develops in surprising ways, and she follows him to France to explore his world and understand him fully.

AMERICAN HONEY 아메리칸 허니 Genre: Documentary Director: Andrea Arnold Film Length: 162 minutes Starring: Sasha Lane, Shia LeBeouf, Riley Keough Summary: The film follows Star, a teenage girl from a troubled home, who runs away with a traveling sales crew and who drives across the American Midwest selling magazine subscriptions door to door.

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FEATURE

To Market, to Market…

Written by Douglas Baumwoll Photographed by Douglas Baumwoll and Park Tae-sang Interpretation by Park Tae-sang and Heo Suk-young

lines:

I had a penny, A bright new penny, I took my penny To the market square.

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Well, according to the Public Economy Division at Gwangju City Hall, there are 24 street markets in our fair city. These markets vary in size, economic health and vitality, and services offered. All in all, however, there are about 3,540 market stalls peopled by about 5,700 vendors.

These markets are overseen by the Public Economy Division, as well as the Small and Medium Business Administration, and the individual district offices (e.g., Buk-gu District Office). These government agencies administer their funds primarily to modernize facilities, improve parking,

July 2017

TO MARKET, TO MARKET, TO BUY A… Open air markets, street markets, market squares, floating markets, farmers’ markets – markets of one sort or another have comprised an integral part of both rural and urban

communities dating back 4,000 years to Assyria and Babylonia in Mesopotamia. The first usage of the word in English, markete (from the Latin, mercatus), occurs in 963 AD; in 1086, fifty official markets are listed in a guide published in England. In my home country of America, my town’s farmers’ market has opened on every Wednesday for over 50 years. So, here in Gwangju, what’s the deal, exactly, with the many street markets you’ve no doubt seen through a car or bus window, or walked by on your way to somewhere else?

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A

bout 100 years ago, A. A. Milne, of Winnie-the-Pooh fame, penned the following

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8 promote shopping among citizens and tourists, work with merchant unions, and advertise. While researching this article, I had the pleasure and the pain (you’ll see what I mean with Seobang Market, below) of visiting three of the more well-known markets in the city: Daein Market, Malbau Market, and Seobang Market.

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July 2017

DAEIN MARKET You may have heard talk of the Daein Market, located downtown, in regard to its weekend Night Market. But Daein is a daily market, serving the local residents, and has been officially registered as such since 1976. Like all of the markets I visited to write this article, city folk have been gathering there to sell wares, foods, clothing (and just about everything else you would need to live a comfortable life) for much longer. No one there could say exactly how long, but guesses were similar to the founding year of Songjeong Market: 1913. The majority of the vendors we spoke with had been selling at Daein for between 25 and 40 years.

We enter on a Saturday at about 2 p.m.

The first shop we stop by is, for lack of a better term in English, a “roots” store. Run by Mrs. Cha, a lovely, friendly, and open woman in her mid-60s (I’m guessing here, I didn’t think it very civil to ask her outright), dozens of roots, tree barks, and dried twigs used to make teas connected with Chinese medicine are on offer.

“I use some of them,” she says, “others not.” Most are boiled for 30 minutes in water and then drunk for specific purposes. Her products come chiefly from Geumsan, near Daejeon, which is known for high-quality ginseng root. “In the old days,” she tells us, “my husband used to gather the roots himself.” But these days, she buys her inventory from a vendor there, paying cash up front. There are no lines of credit in her business. And thus, we have touched on the economic theme that drove me to write this article; we will revisit it throughout, and I hope

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you find it as compelling as I do.

“This is my fourth location in Daein Market in 25 years,” says Mrs. Cha. Most recently, she had to move stalls about two years ago, when her landlord raised the rent due to the Night Market’s success. And here is another interesting facet to this story: the street markets in Gwangju are all privately owned by multiple landlords within each one. A true tribute to capitalism, where I had assumed the markets fit into some kind of socialist framework. City-wide, roughly twothirds of the market stalls are tenantrun, the vendors paying rent directly to the landlord. The other one-third of the stalls are operated by their owners.

Here at Daein, the market director confirmed that of the 360 stalls, which provide jobs for about 800 people, 70 percent of them are rented by the sellers from the stall owner.

After about 15 minutes of chatting, Mrs. Cha reminisces a bit and tells us that she remembers living with her husband and her three children 30 years ago in a one-room apartment nearby Daein Market. Back then, she sold her goods from a street cart she wheeled around here, just as her husband did at Malbau Market a few kilometers north. I ask, “What kind of hours do you work now?” She calmly responds, “I usually work from about 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.” I ask, “How many customers have you had today?” She answers, “I have about 10 paying customers every day. Most are longstanding customers in their 60s or older.” Her dried stock lasts one year or more, and customers tend to buy two to ten bundles at a time, spending between 10,000 and 60,000 won. “I do have a few customers in their 20s and 30s,” she adds.

We stand in comfortable silence for a few moments, and I glance down the main street in the market. For a Saturday at 2 p.m., there is what seems to me a noticeable lack of foot traffic for the center of a city. “Is this

▲ Previous page: 30-year-veteran couple who

Luggage Shop in Daein Market; (Right) Malbau

the normal amount of shoppers for a Saturday?” She says that there is major construction just behind the market, and that many of the long-term customers no longer live there, having moved out to make room for the high-rise apartment buildings that are going up. Gingerly, and judiciously, I ask, “Are you able to cover your costs?

I mean, the cost of your product and your rent? Do you more than break even?” She graciously obliges us an answer: yes, she makes a profit, and has, it would seem, for the last 25 years.

We take our leave, and visit with the man across the street, Mr. Kim (see photos). He is a very smiley, friendly, elder man, who has lived here (above his shop) selling backpacks, luggage,

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sell vegetables in Daein Market. They donate a portion of profits to schools and orphanages. This page: (Left) Mr. Kim’s Backpack and Market.

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Of the three markets we visited to write this story, Daein Market as a whole fits into some middle category as far as economic health and future viability. Although some parts are unoccupied, the Night Market has been very successful. Definitely check it out for a plethora of different foods and restaurant experiences. In addition, on Saturday nights there is live music at the “main stage” as well as the “Dreamers” stall, run by Gwangju-native Tae-sang Park. The Night Market, however, doesn’t really benefit folks like Mrs. Cha or the other day sellers. For them, future rent increases and competition from the nearby Lotte Department Store are more on their minds. In contrast to these sentiments at Daein Market, the prospects at our next stop,

July 2017

Next, we speak with the head of the Merchants’ Association. He tells us that before the Night Market began in 2008, Daein was 30 percent unoccupied. I have to ask, “So, I was wondering, with the success of the Night Market, and the coming of the new apartments, is there any kind of

rent control in effect here? What’s to stop rents from skyrocketing?” He smiles, knowingly, and says, “Nothing is.” He tells us in earnest that he expects an increase in the number of market customers in the next five years, but that rent increases are a concern for him as pertains to protecting the current vendors. He is not sure about enforcement of any national law regarding rent control, but he has initiated informal agreements among Daein landlords regarding a controlled rent-increase policy.

Unfortunately, he acknowledges, they are under no obligation to abide by them. According to City Hall, 48 percent of sellers city-wide pay up to 250,000 won in monthly rent; 39 percent pay between 250- and 500,000 won.

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hats, and clothing items for 40 years.

He is one of the minority owneroperators. “Where are your products made?” He buys products made in China and Korea at various locations in Korea. “When the new apartments are finished, do you think more people will be shopping here?” Mr. Kim, along with the other sellers in the market, expects an increase in foot traffic and shoppers when the new high-rise apartments are finished.

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10 stall for 15 years. She sells dried grains and legumes from all over the world.

I buy a doe (되; a wooden box used to measure grains) of white beans from Canada. She sells many grains from Korea, which she buys directly from farmers, as well as lentils and chickpeas from America and other beans from China. We wind our way past all the essentials available to the citizenry, such as vegetables, meats, clothes, hardware, prepared foods, live seafood, and even Jindo puppies.

We arrive at the central business office for Malbau, on the first floor of a large parking structure.

▲ Top: Seobang Market Main Entrance; Bottom: Seobang Market – One of many

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July 2017

unoccupied streets.

Malbau Market, look markedly more optimistic.

BUSTLING MALBAU MARKET On Saturday morning, June 17, I went to Malbau Market along with my interpreter. Because the date ends in a “7,” this qualifies as a “big” market day at Malbau. Each market has a different day, but on these official market days there is a bigger turnout, presumably of both vendors and shoppers. Located between Homeplus to the north, Dongkang College to the south, and Chonnam University to the west, Malbau is a huge, thriving

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street market, involving 511 official stalls and thousands of corollary small businesses (see photo, previous page).

Colorful umbrellas line the main streets, keeping the scorching sun off the backs of the sidewalk sellers hawking mostly fruits and vegetables.

Foot traffic is lethargic: the sidewalk is clogged with shoppers of all ages, including families with children. On a busy day, 20,000 shoppers pad past the stalls eyeing and buying the multitude of items on display.

We turn off the main street and chat with a grain seller who has had her

The market director, Mr. Jeong, welcomes us heartily (we are walkins here) and ushers us into a meeting room and graciously speaks with us for 30 minutes. We cover many of the same topics as relayed above regarding Daein Market: ownership and tenancy of stalls, health of the market, future prospects. First, however, I ask him about the sidewalk sellers. “How much do they pay the market to have a place on the sidewalk? Or do they pay the city directly?” He hesitates a split second, and tells us that the sidewalk vendors are not associated with the market officially in any way. They simply claim a space in the morning and set up their wares, selling directly to the public. By custom, the same sellers claim the same space daily.

The police occasionally shoo them on their way, but this occurs rarely.

Technically, the federal government has some kind of jurisdiction over this practice, but if you have ever gone

by Malbau Market on any day of the week, there are dozens of sidewalk sellers mongering their merchandise, primarily fruits and vegetables.

Though I could not confirm this, I have heard that typically these vendors do not deal directly with farmers, but rather buy their products from the large wholesale market a couple of kilometers north and simply resell them on the sidewalk.

This is obviously true for imported fruits such as bananas. We did speak

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11 with one such seller, however, selling locally harvested garlic. She told us that after selling it at the market, she paid the farmer their portion. I asked Mr. Jeong, off the record, about both the traffic problems caused by these sellers taking up one lane of the threelane road there and whether insidethe-market sellers bear hostility toward the sidewalk sellers who pay no rent or permit fees. He was honest enough to provide us a short answer, which obviously I cannot share with you!

Malbau Market is thriving. Mr. Jeong estimates that daily sales can end up in the 500,000–2,000,000 won/day range for each stall. Thousands of other shops in the immediate vicinity also benefit from the throngs passing by.

Seobang Market has real-name recognition among the older generation in Gwangju. It enjoyed city-wide fame in the 1970s and 1980s.

Today, however, is a much different story. Of the store fronts there, numbering perhaps 100 or so, maybe 10 percent were open. Apart from eight or ten stalls at the main entrance, the market is essentially defunct (see photos, previous page). The number of alleys and storefronts attest to its past success, but today Seobang Market infuses the passerby with the vibe of entrepreneurial death. There is not even an administrative office here – its day-to-day activity is overseen by just one government worker in the Bukgu District Office. Perhaps the future apartment buildings and subway stop will reinvigorate this community trading post, but I judge it just as likely that the owners will sell to developers, take their money, and move on.

CLOSING THOUGHTS I am a community guy. I love it when people come together during mundane daily activities, interacting with their neighbors and their fellow town- or city-dwellers. Markets, in all their varieties, have offered people, especially in the middle and lower classes, a place to do just that for thousands of years in virtually every country and culture on the planet.

Practically speaking, prices are fair and buyers support sellers directly, even if there are a few middlemen

Back when I lived in Spain in the late 1990s, I watched the street markets dwindle as supermarkets popped up all over my neighborhood. Longer opening hours, one-stop shopping, and better access to parking all contributed to the popularity of those supermarkets over the neighborhood street markets. Do a search and you will quickly find lots of articles about the death of street markets worldwide. You can find statistics, for example, showing the increase in the percentage of vegetables bought in supermarkets rather than street markets. Here in Gwangju, City Hall acknowledges that decaying facilities, lack of parking, and competition from large supermarkets are a threat to the survival of our street markets.

I do my weekend vegetable shopping and basic housewares shopping at Malbau Market. I encourage you to do to the same. Will the markets and their vendors adapt to the consumers’ needs and desires? Will the shoppers sacrifice a modicum of convenience in order to maintain a community tradition and stabilizer that has existed in Gwangju for decades? As always, only time will tell.

THE AUTHOR Douglas Baumwoll has been a professional editor and writer for 25 years. He has worked as a lead writer, chief editor, and writing trainer at an international environmental consulting firm. In Korea, he has taught university writing courses and currently trains public school teachers. His personal writing interests include climate change, social justice, and fiction.

----------------------------------------------Park Tae-sang is the founder of “Dreamers,” an open space mix of live music, good food, drinks, art, a friendly and intimate space in Daein Market.

----------------------------------------------Heo Suk-young is currently an intern at the Gwangju International Center.

He majors in psychology in Chonnam National University.

July 2017

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SEOBANG MARKET After learning of the success of Malbau Market and experiencing the vitality and energy there on a market Saturday at 11 a.m., my interpreter comrade and I walked 10 minutes south to Seobang Market. This market is near my house, and I was curious to look into its existence a bit more deeply, knowing that it represents the other side of the coin when it comes to street market vitality in Gwangju.

between the seller and the producer.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

A BRIGHT FUTURE FOR MALBAU At the center of the market is a large, open, paved space owned by a driving school. The city is currently trying to purchase this land, and Malbau will have the right to use it. This asphalt expanse will be transformed into a green space to be used as a park and a performance venue. Mr. Jeong hopes that younger people will attend performances and events there. Furthermore, Malbau Market is actively being promoted to tourists and to citizens. In addition, there is a major urban development project underway just west of Dongkang College and south of the market, which will bring thousands of new residents to the neighborhood.

Finally, in the distant future, the new subway line, Line 2, slated for construction in Gwangju will have stops at Seobang Market to the south and Chonnam University to the west.

All in all, Mr. Jeong is optimistic about the future health of the market. “What is the one aspect of working here you like most?” I ask. “The diversity of the sellers and shoppers.” I extend the question: “And the part you like least?” He chuckles and says, “The maintenance of the physical facility,” which will include improvements to

the parking structure and its access from the main road.

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:51

12 Gwangju Talks

Gwangju Talks about Its Markets Interviewed and translated by Jung Yu-jin

COMMUNITY

WHAT KIND OF MARKETS DO YOU GO TO?

Kim Hyo-eun (Female/23/ University Student) It depends on the things that I need to buy. When I need to buy some vegetables and meat, I always go to NongHyup, which is a farmer’s cooperative in Korea. The reasons that I go to Hanaro Mart for groceries are not only because I prefer to consume products that are cultivated in our land, but it is also because the quality of the products is so good for its price.

However, whenever I need to purchase some other necessities such as detergent, tissues, and snacks (this is the most important), I usually go to E-mart or Homeplus. Because they have many brands on their shelves, I can make various choices at those places.

Song Ji-yeon (Female/25/Job Applicant) I usually go to large markets such as E-mart or Homeplus.

Yoon Seong-ja (Female/58/Housewife) When I need to buy some meats or things like that, I usually go to large markets such as Homeplus. But I often go to traditional markets nearby when I want to buy some vegetables or fruits.

Jung Tae-gyu (Male/32/Teacher) Normally, I do Internet shopping, because I am too busy and have limited time. In addition, when I buy something like clothes, I go to department stores or outlets.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

Jo Yoon-jae (Male/25/University Student) I use almost any market. Usually, I go there to get some snacks, and the markets have snacks everywhere.

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF TRADITIONAL MARKETS?

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Kim Hyo-eun (Female/23/ University Student) In my opinion, traditional markets are not a good place to walk around for shopping because of hygiene matters. Also, especially for groceries, I cannot know exactly where the foods come from, so it is not trustworthy. Still, since most merchants in traditional markets prefer to receive [payments in] cash, people who do not want to carry cash, like me, would feel inconvenienced.

Song Ji-yeon (Female/25/Job Applicant) I don’t like traditional markets that much because I don’t think that buying stuff at traditional markets is as convenient as buying items at large markets.

Yoon Seong-ja (Female/58/Housewife) I think traditional markets are interesting places, because the prices are cheap and there are so many things to see. But there are some weaknesses [about traditional markets]. We can’t use credit cards to buy things, and there are no places to park.

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13

Jung Tae-gyu (Male/32/Teacher) I think that traditional markets are generous places because when people buy something, merchants often throw in a little bit more with the purchase. Also, I think there are many delicious foods there. But when I buy something other than food, I am reluctant because of quality.

Jo Yoon-jae (Male/25/University Student) Since traditional markets have a unique atmosphere, I would like to go there sometimes, but they are too far [for me to visit]. Also, there are some beliefs that markets are cheap, but I think that these perceptions are disappearing. I think that these larger markets are much better than the traditional markets because of an organized image, many sales, and all kinds of items are available here.

HOW STRONG WILL TRADITIONAL MARKETS BE IN THE FUTURE?

Kim Hyo-eun (Female/23/ University Student) In the future, the magnitude of traditional markets will become significantly smaller than now because nowadays we [as Koreans] do not go shopping at traditional markets. However, although the magnitude of the markets may dwindle, traditional markets could stay strong because I think traditional markets are changing to cultural sightseeing sites in Korea such as Songjeong Market and Nam-Gwangju Market. Since the age spectrum of those visiting traditional markets has broadened, the markets could remain small but significant in the future.

Song Ji-yeon (Female/25/Job Applicant) Since major companies have many large markets and their system is organized really well, I would say they are much stronger than traditional markets. So, for traditional markets, I think it is important for them to keep their own atmosphere, and they need to sell a variety of goods.

Yoon Seong-ja (Female/58/Housewife) There is a need to arrange parking places. Also, I think that market traders should allow buyers to use their credit cards, because recently people don’t carry too much cash with them.

Jo Yoon-jae (Male/25/University Student) I think markets cannot follow the mart’s role for buying groceries. It is sad, but I think they should take countermeasures, such as the Gwangju Songjeong Station Market or the NamGwangju Night Market have done.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Jung Tae-gyu (Male/32/Teacher) As large markets increase, traditional markets decrease; it can’t be helped. If there is a measure to strengthen traditional markets, it would be that some specific markets would need to develop into a kind of Culture Street with support and interest from city governments. I think Daein Market and Songjeong Market are great examples.

July 2017

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2017-07-05 �� 2:05:51

14 In Town

Andrew Vlasblom:

Talented Local Musician and Composer

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

COMMUNITY

Written by E.J. Jones Photographed by Park Tae-sang

A

ndrew Vlasblom is a name that’s been popping up a lot recently: in the past month, he’s been interviewed by the Gwangju Blog, the GFN radio station, and now, Gwangju News. If you didn’t see or hear his name in one of these interviews, then you might have seen it on promotional posters floating about for his most recent musical project, The Ballad of Coward Jack.

You may be wondering, “What is up with this guy, who is Coward Jack, and why is everybody so interested?”

Anyone who has lived in our city for a reasonable length of time can confirm that Gwangju is packed full of artistic talent. We have amazing painters, dancers, writers, choreographers, photographers, actors, and, well, the list goes on. But, how many people do you know personally – from anywhere – who put out an average of one original musical composition per month and one full album per year?

Personally, I can count them on one finger.

Vlasblom, a native of Canada, has been around Gwangju for longer than most expats I’ve encountered.

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He came here in 2009 with EPIK and remains with the program to date – that’s a long time teaching English.

Like most of us, however, Vlasblom has passions outside of teaching, and for him, one of the biggest ones is musical composition.

Vlasblom began playing the piano at age six (on a toy piano that remains a relic in his family’s possession), but he says he didn’t “really” start playing until he was 12. Initially, he took lessons, but due to his refusal to follow the sheet music assigned to him, he was unable to continue studying with his frustrated teacher.

Eventually, Vlasblom’s music teacher told his mother that young Vlasblom was “unteachable.” Vlasblom recounts an early recital in which he performed “Jingle Bells” and added improvised verses. He admits, “I kind of wanted to show off in front of my Grade 1 peers.”

This instance was the breaking point for Vlasblom’s teacher, but the absence of an instructor didn’t halt Vlasblom’s musical endeavors.

After being cut from lessons, Vlasblom happily continued “tinkering away” at the piano on his own, he says, preferring playing by ear to reading

music. Vlasblom would simply listen to songs he wanted to play and then figure out the notes on the piano by matching the familiar melodies living in his head – tunes such as “Indiana Jones” and “Beethoven’s Fifth.”

Vlasblom was soon amazing family and friends with his ability to play without having to read the music and eventually began composing his own original pieces.

Vlasblom traces his first completed original composition back to his university years when he was in his first band, Radio Blanket, for which he composed the song, “God Machine.”

The song was named after a bit that used to air on The Daily Show. As he was explaining all this, Vlasblom, with a chuckle, went on to recite the short lyrics to the song from memory: The God Machine There’s nothing quite so keen You press that button And out comes somethin’ ya never woulda foreseen

The rest of the song following this lyrical stanza is purely instrumental.

Unfortunately, this earliest work by

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:52

15 Vlasblom can’t be found online (trust me, I looked). However, if you stalk the artist on Facebook, you can find a link to his SoundCloud profile where you can listen to most of his works from the past two years, an exercise that will showcase the progression Vlasblom has made over time as a composer.

After his initial arrival in Gwangju, Vlasblom quickly stepped onto the city’s musical scene. Those who know Andrew would recognize him best with a keyboard at his fingertips, but actually, one of the first things he did upon arrival was purchase an accordion – an instrument that had long intrigued him. However, Vlasblom found that the loud, amateur sounds emitting from the instrument were not so pleasing to his fellow apartment tenants, and so, he took to practicing in the park, later also acquiring a keyboard with volume control.

The Ballad of Coward Jack (or TBOCJ, as I’ve come to refer to it) is a western-themed album that tells the story of Coward Jack, who gets into trouble with the law, as well as with his old gang leader who goes by the name of Ole John Red. When a fight ends badly, Coward Jack goes on the run, being pursued for “18 years” by the revengeful Ole John Red. I won’t give too much away here, but I’ll just say, I’m very impressed with what Vlasblom has created, both musically and lyrically.

The album tracks are characterized by three beautiful female voices and a simple, but fitting, instrumental accompaniment of violin and piano.

TBOCJ enjoyed a packed audience at its debut performance at Daein Night Market on May 27 of this year.

One thing I wondered about, being a musician and writer myself, is how Vlasblom finds the time and inspiration to produce the amount of music that he puts out. Vlasblom says he receives inspiration through different mediums, such as paintings, photographs, or other music. In February, for example, the artist successfully wrote twenty original musical compositions based on artwork submitted to him by friends – all in just 28 days. Once Vlasblom becomes inspired, the composition usually comes both quickly and naturally. To put it in perspective, Vlasblom completed the first draft of TBOCJ in just two weeks, including lyrics and musical scores. He was first inspired to write the album while daydreaming at a café. At other times, he’ll be “diddling around” on the piano and the melodies just come to him. “Some things work, and some things don’t,” he says. The artist notes that a key element to his ability to complete projects is setting deadlines for himself.

In the closing of the interview, I asked Vlasblom what we could expect to come from him next, to which he replied that he hopes to collaborate more heavily with others, sharing the work of writing lyrics and music rather than simply creating the parts and asking others to perform with him. He is also interested in exploring musical genres different from what he has produced in the past. I asked Vlasblom about any future plans for his musical career after leaving Korea.

He confirmed that one day, ideally, he would be interested in returning to Canada and working predominantly as a musical composer – and at the rate he’s going, there’s no doubt of his success in that endeavor.

July 2017

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Vlasblom says his performance at Daein Market is what kick-started his becoming extremely active on the musical scene in Gwangju, thanks to having a new, regular performance outlet and networking with fellow local musicians, some of which he recruited for his most recent album, The Ballad of Coward Jack.

For those who missed it, additional live performances are scheduled, the next taking place at Speakeasy on Friday, July 7, where Vlasblom hopes to have professionally produced CD recordings available for purchase.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

With his newly purchased instruments, Vlasblom soon formed a weekly “classic rock night” at the local German Bar. From these rock nights came the formation of Andrew’s next band, Deserts. The group included himself on the keyboard, a bassist, two guitarists, a drummer, and a lead vocalist. During the lifespan of this ensemble, Vlasblom wrote two more original compositions; one of which, “Heart of Coal,” showcases both the artist’s piano and vocal skills, and (unlike earlier compositions) can be sampled on his SoundCloud. Deserts enjoyed some success, Vlasblom says, and even toured some cities outside of Gwangju such as Daegu, Busan, and Seoul. After about a year, the group disbanded, however, when the lead singer left Korea to return to his home country. Allegedly, the drummer had proposed that his band members follow him and they tour the U.S., but the idea was turned down. Could they have made it big? Guess we’ll never know.

Following the death of his band, Deserts, Vlasblom took a two-year hiatus in which he “didn’t really do much” musically. Happily, at the end of this period, Vlasblom began writing music again, producing his first complete, original album, On and On, which is entirely instrumental.

Since the completion of On and On, Vlasblom has gone on to produce one full, original album each sequential year. His second instrumental album, Far to Go, is, according to him, “by far [his] most boring work to date” (but you can listen to it on his SoundCloud and judge for yourself). In Vlasblom’s opinion, his first “good album” was the following work he composed, entitled Last Horizon, a space-themed album that was released last year with debut live performances at the German Bar and the Dreamer’s space at Daein Night Market.

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:52

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

16 Sports

Football for a Cause Written and photographed by Giovanni Pieve

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

F

ootball is called “the beautiful game,” and for good reason.

Both on the international and club stage, football brings people together to cheer their teams to victory. Though on a much smaller scale, amateur football is the same.

It can bring people from all over a country together to play and make an impact that reaches far beyond the pitch. The 2017 Gwangju Charity Cup exemplified this perfectly as hosts Gwangju Inter FC along with seven other teams came together to play the beautiful game for sport and pride – and for a great cause.

Now who is Gwangju Inter FC? It is our local amateur foreigner-friendly football club. The team practices and plays every Sunday and participates in tournaments whenever possible.

They have been around since the early 2000s, and this year the team decided to go an extra step and host its very own tournament. According

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to the team manager, Wee Sungje, the tournament was inspired by other cups held around Korea, most notably, the annual Ulsan Cup, which is considered to be the biggest tournament on the Korean amateur football circuit. While Inter FC does participate in roughly six to eight tournaments a year, there were no tournaments in the southwest. The Gwangju Charity Cup was created, in part, to fill that void.

The tournament was brilliantly run as well. Putting together such a large event isn’t easy, but the team had some help and support from organizations and individuals within the Gwangju community. Due to the lobbying efforts of the team manager, the team was able to get help from a few major outside sources. “The Gwangju International Center (GIC) helped us substantially by helping to run the tournament,” said Wee. Additionally, the Gwangju Football Association

helped in acquiring the rights to use the facility at a discounted rate. The team’s kit sponsor, Speakeasy Bar in Gwangju, provided some help to the team throughout the year. Finally, the team had help creating posters, thanks to the graphic design skills of Lee Wan-hee.

The facility was the football stadium at Naju Sports Park, which is nestled just behind Naju Station. The teams were able to make use of both the stadium pitch as well as the secondary pitch outside the stadium.

The tournament ran a traditional football format with a group stage consisting of two groups of four.

The top two in each group advanced to the semi-finals while the bottom two in each group still competed in the lower bracket for 5th to 8th place with the 5th-place team being awarded “the plate.” Each match was 40 minutes. This format allowed for the tournament to be completed

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:52

17 in one day and provided each team with a minimum of four games. For the out-of-town teams, this made the trip well worth it.

Speaking of those out-of-town teams, the tournament brought in players from quite a few different cities in Korea. A total of four teams were local while four teams had to make the trip down. One team hailed from Daejeon, while another team was from Daegu. A third had a mix of Daegu and Jeonju players, while another came from Gwangsan. However, perhaps what was even more impressive was the number of nationalities represented at the tournament. Over 16 different countries were represented. This phenomenon is something quite familiar to Gwangju Inter FC. Though initially a team made up of English teachers, Inter has expanded its reach beyond the English teaching community to form a truly diverse team.

2017�7��.indd 17

Now Chunhwan FC won the tournament, but everyone on the pitch would agree that the true winners were the children at MDream orphanage in Gwangju.

Why MDream? It goes back to Inter’s weekly practices. Inter FC plays and practices every Sunday, and among their regular attendees are some of the children from MDream who are either still living there or have moved on. For the past three years, the team has practiced and played

The tournament raised money through team fees, and in the end, each team contributed 100,000 won, for a total of 800,000 won, for the children. In the past, Inter FC has fundraised for them, but this represented a rare opportunity to do something with a huge impact. This was the true goal the team had in mind when it set up the tournament, and it was noticeable. When the total amount raised was announced, the players roared with excitement.

Though at that point the tournament had not yet started, the team already felt victorious.

“I’m just happy we can say thank you to them. The amount of help they give us is amazing. We just wanted to give them something for a change” said Co-captain John Wolfer.

Gwangju Inter FC plays inter-squad friendlies every Sunday at Choongjang Middle School (충장중학교) in Gwangju.

The team is always looking for new members. If you would like to join, please contact Mr. Wee Sung-Je at seehand@ naver.com.

July 2017

Dropping the second match put Inter in a situation where their backs were against the wall. Nothing less than a win in their third match would help them advance to the semi-finals.

In the semifinals, Inter FC kept their strong day going by playing to a 2-2 draw. In this tournament, extra time was not played, and therefore, the winner would be decided by a penalty kick shootout. Inter won the exciting shootout 4-3, which earned the team a spot in the finals. There they would play the local Korean team, Chunhwan FC. It was a hardfought match, but in the end, Inter FC came up just short, losing 1-0.

Chunhwan FC were then crowned the winners of the first-ever Gwangju Charity Cup.

with many of the children regularly.

The youths at MDream have helped the team stay afloat during times when membership had dropped, and through the years, a strong, close bond has formed.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

That team did not disappoint either.

Our boys in yellow, Gwangju Inter FC, had a good showing during the group stage though initially struggling. Their first match was against a local Korean team. The team was full of young players with speed and Inter struggled in the beginning, seemingly overwhelmed.

However, they were able to recover in the second half and equalized the game, ending it in a 2-2 draw. Team Co-captain Tom Bevis credited Inter FC’s second half resurgence to a change in strategy and formation.

This draw would prove crucial because in the second fixture, Inter could not recover from yet another first half struggle and dropped the match 1-0, despite creating many chances in the second half.

Fortunately, Inter dominated the third match, winning it 2-0 with some spectacular goals off of corner kicks headed into the back of the net.

The win put Inter in a tie for second place in the standings, but the team advanced to the semifinals on goal differential.

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18 Sports through playing soccer.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

“When I first came to Chonnam National University, I did not have many friends, and most of them were from Malaysia. I started to become friends with many students from Uzbekistan and African countries once I began playing soccer with them. It shows how useful soccer is for making friends,” said Nur GrinCore, an exchange student from Malaysia.

We Play Football to Become Family Written and photographed by Munavvarkhon Karimov (Michael)

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

A

nother Saturday evening.

Twenty international players on the pitch are panting and sweating while competing with one another to score. Suddenly, a guy from Cameroon receives the ball from his Uzbek teammate near the penalty area and shoots.

What a strong shot! And a Korean goalkeeper has no option but to watch the ball go into the goal net.

However, no matter which team wins at Chonnam National University (CNU), the purpose is but one: building friendship with overseas students on the campus.

Each semester, over 1,500 international students from 76 countries come to CNU, filling the campus with multicultural diversity.

Along with various activities and trips organized by the university, playing soccer (football) on the pitch has been one of the most successful at bringing overseas students into the

2017�7��.indd 18

CNU community.

“Football here helps us to be together as a family,” said Gideon Paul Mbokoso, a Tanzanian student.

“We can even learn new culture and languages.”

Many students, when they first go abroad to study, may find it rather challenging to get on well with others.

It may lead to anxiety and exclusion from society, which may have a detrimental effect on their academic performance as well. To tackle this sort of situation, universities provide diverse activities and trips whereby students have chances to get together and socialize with other foreigners, along with locals. As a matter of fact, CNU offers different events such as National Food Day, various festivals, and trips around Gwangju and other cities. But friendship is being built more effectively outside of those programs: on the pitch at CNU and

After a match, students take pictures, discuss the best moments and players of the game, and go to a coffee shop or pizza house to have dinner together. They also share their experiences and thoughts on their courses, assignments, approaching exams, and so on. All of these friendly conversations are spontaneous and a crucial contributing factor to building friendships, less likely achieved by means of other activities.

“At first, we did not mean to play with other foreigners,” said Bekhzod Ruziev, senior Uzbek student. “We just used to gather and play with other Uzbek students. But then, we realized that mixing with other foreigners was much more fun and useful.”

Although this is the case at Chonnam National University, it can be applied to larger communities as Gwangju City is becoming more multicultural each year. Sports events have been renowned for bringing peace and mutual understanding among different cultures.

Organizing such events may help Gwangju residents get together, spend time with different people from different cultural backgrounds, and share their experiences and opinions on common issues. Above all, spending time together would help to eliminate false stereotypes, end social exclusion, and share mutual respect as well as understanding among Gwangju residents.

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:53

19

COMMUNITY

Gwangju’s Language Lounge Offers Korean and English to All Written by Joey Nunez Photos courtesy of the Language Lounge

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Soma is also pleased with how the meetings run on their own, with new recruitment and steady commitment occurring easily, despite the group’s multiple changes. “People go back to their home countries, new people arrive in Korea, and new members

join. I think that another factor that keeps our group running is that new people join each week,” Soma explained.

The Language Lounge has flourished as group members receive oneon-one and group assistance while learning and practicing Korean and/or English. During the 2015 Universiade activities, international collegiate athletes competed in events. Some of them heard about the Language Lounge and made time outside of their competitions

July 2017

Jem Soma, one of the group’s current leaders, is proud of the success in

sustainability that the Language Lounge has experienced since November 2014, as she explained the group’s two-hour routine: “After 10 to 15 minutes, we mix the tables so participants have the opportunity to talk to a variety of other people.”

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

L

ike Mokpo, Gwangju offers its own language group, called the Language Lounge. During the final week of July this year, the Language Lounge will celebrate its 140th consecutive week of bringing together different people groups to meet, converse, and enjoy each other’s company. The group currently meets every Saturday from 4 to 6 p.m. at Café Oma in downtown Gwangju (광주광역시 동구 서석로 85).

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:54

20 to join the group. “We had so many people that we didn’t all fit in the café where we were at that time,” Soma recalls.

Soma herself arrived in Korea in July 2015 as a working-holiday volunteer for Mr. Hwang, who is the founder of the Language Lounge. She has found the group beneficial for both Korean residents, so they can “make international friends and practice their English,” and for international residents, so they can “meet other international residents, make Korean friends, and practice their Korean.” “For me,” Soma added, “it is the easiest way to meet new friends, practice my Korean and English, and keep up to date with events in Gwangju and other recent news.”

Along with the benefit of learning two languages, Soma sees additional benefits for members of this weekly group. “I know that some of the members are very good friends who spend a lot of time outside of the Language Lounge together.

Others have found a boyfriend or girlfriend.”

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

The group welcomes all learners to come to this relaxed environment for learning Korean and/or English, no matter their length of commitment.

Soma shared that the group even welcomes Korean students who come only for one or two Saturdays, so they can practice their English before taking university exams. Soma also enjoys the friendships she has made with the regular 10-15 Language Lounge members who have been coming every week so far this year.

Soma is grateful to Mr. Hwang and every person who has made the Language Lounge the success that it is from 2014 to today. “I want to thank all of our volunteers who have hosted the Language Lounge during their free time in Korea, and to all our members. We welcome everyone who wants to join us in the future, and we look forward to many more Saturdays full of fun and cultural exchange,” she shared.

For more information about Language Lounge online, visit: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ languagelounge/.

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Club Hipster Gwangju’s Newest Barbershop Written by Amy Badenhorst Photos courtesy of Club Hipster Interpretation by Heo Suk-young

“

A good moustache makes a man for many reasons” – clearly the one who invented this quote, had a good barber. And in fact, gentlemen, now you can have one, too. I present to you Club Hipster.

Conveniently located in Dongmyeong-dong, this modern, American-styled, retro barbershop popped up in our very own Gwangju eight months ago, and I got to sit down with the man responsible for some of the most cleanly shaven faces in town. Kim Jeong-min has lived in Gwangju since the age of 12 and decided that real men deserve a real barber.

So what got you into the barber business?

Jeong-min: I started out working in a unisex salon, but men’s haircuts and shaving were more interesting for me. I can feel a kinship with men.

I learned most of my skills from a salon academy.

There are no special barber courses in Korea. If someone wants to open a barbershop, they must either go to Europe or the U.S. to study. People in Korea start at a salon and learn trends and communication skills.

The women’s haircuts are more difficult than men’s, so I learned women’s haircuts as a basic skill and studied men’s haircuts by myself.

Many barbershops don’t have a unique style, so I wanted to make my shop distinctive.

Who is your clientele?

Korean men shave by themselves because their beards are not so thick. There are not many Korean men to shave, but foreigners have thick and long beards.

Steven Ward introduced several foreigners to my shop so now more visitors come to also purchase shaving products. A variety of men visit my shop everyday: men as young as 20 to [those] in their 60s.

Professionals visit often and more people who like a vintage style are coming.

2017-07-05 �� 2:05:54

21

COMMUNITY

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And the name?

“Hipster JM” was the original name, but I wanted to expand my business and create a certain kind of brand. I think the name clearly illustrates the atmosphere of my shop.

So what is the future like for Club Hipster?

I would like to earn a lot of money.

I want young pe ople to admire me

and follow my style.

Please note that this shop is by appointment only. When you walk out of the barber shop with a sharp haircut, you can’t help but feel a bit of manly swagger creep into your step. So next time you spot that familiar red and white striped pole, stop in. You’ll be glad you did.

CLUB HIPSTER 광주 동구 동명동 176-11 2층 176-11 Dongmyeong-dong (2nd Floor), Dong-gu, Gwangju Phone: 010-8508-7206 (Kim Jeong-min) Facebook: Club-Hipster

July 2017

Tell me a little bit more about the interior and the general atmosphere in your barbershop.

At first, I wanted to make a luxurystyle interior, but I changed the interior to a more trendy style to suit

younger men. It is cozy and a little messy. I saw the interior on TV and added a little of my own personal style.

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What is your specialty cut for men?

I like slick back, pomade, 리젠트 (regent) style. Korean men have various types of hair – straight, thick, thin, or curly – and the shape of their head is not always symmetrical.

Considering that, it is better for Korean men to have this kind of hairstyle.

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ARTS & CULTURE

22 Photo Essay

Journey to Poon Hill, Nepal Written and photographed by A.P. Tolang

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

T

ravel is my passion; I love to adventure to mountainous places. This winter vacation, I chose the Poon Hill Trek. The Himalayas fill Nepal, and the Poon Hill Trek is among the most popular trails in Nepal. At 3,210 meters, Poon Hill is the highest point of the trek, which offers excellent views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Mountain Ranges. It was a dream of mine to finally view these mountains at such a close distance. This trip is an excellent option if you are looking to start trekking around Nepal, and if you are short on time, as it can be easily completed in four or five days. Since this is a popular route, there are lots of hotels and tea houses throughout the route, and you will meet fellow trekkers all along the way. You can complete the trip without a guide, even if you are a foreign tourist. I did the trek in five days with my friend

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Sanjeev Thapa Magar. Our journey started from Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.

DAY 1: KATHMANDU TO POKHARA We set off from Kathmandu to Pokhara early in the morning at 8 a.m. to catch a Jagdamba tourist bus.

The tourist bus was really luxurious, with an attached European-style washroom. During the bus trip, we enjoyed very good service and hospitality from the bus crew. We were provided hot coffee, cold drinks, and a light lunch. The drive mostly follows along the Trishuli Riverside.

There were changing landscape views to enjoy from the window. After reaching Pokhara City at 4 p.m., we went to the Hotel Blue Heaven at the lakeside village and rested for some time. Pokhara is one of the most beautiful cities and the second largest tourist destination in Nepal. It is

popularly known as the City of Lakes.

Then, we went for a walk near Fewa Lake. The view from there was very nice. It is surrounded by green hills and the Snowfall Mountains on the north side. We could clearly view the white and diamond-like shine of the mountains. Here we could also have a clear view of the Machhapuchhre and Annapurna Mountains. Pokhara is really a beautiful and peaceful valley. Many people come here just for sightseeing and to enjoy extreme adventure activities, such as boating, mountain biking, paragliding, ultralight flying, and zip-lining.

DAY 2: POKHARA TO NAYAPUL In the early morning, we had our breakfast in the hotel and then started by taxi on our journey to Nayapul, 45 kilometers away from Pokhara. From there, we had to walk. After reaching this destination, we rested for some

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July 2017

▲ Previous page: Clouds over Mt. Annapurna. This page: (Top) Deurali, (Bottom) Mt. Dhaulagiri

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July 2017

▲ Mount Hiunchuli

time. There we discovered a small river named Modi Khola. When we crossed it, we reached Birethanti, 1,025 meters high. It is a small village that has shops and guest houses. Here, the path continues with stairs. We followed the river, climbed steadily up the side of the valley to a hill at 1,496 meters, and after the short climb there, we reached Tikhedhunga at 1,555 meters to enjoy lunch.

We met many Korean travelers along the way, saying “Annyeong-haseyo” to begin a short chitchat before continuing on our way, climbing up through Ulleri, a large Magar village at 2,020 meters. We walked through the lovely forests, the sounds of birds surrounding us, and went to the Rhododen forest towards Banthanti at 2,250 meters. Then we walked towards Nangethanti, ending at 2,510 meters for lunch. The weather was good that day, allowing us to see many beautiful things along the way. Though we were feeling very tired, we enjoyed the hike. Most travelers take a one-night rest at Banthanti, but we walked nonstop, and in the evening, we reached the more distant Ghorepani, at 2,882 meters. We stayed at the Shikhar Guest House, where we received a warm welcome and very good Ghorepani service.

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DAY 3: HIKING TO POON HILL, BACK TO GHOREPANI, AND TREK TO GHANDRUK We rose at 4:30 a.m. to catch the sunrise at the top of Poon Hill. It takes about an hour to climb to the top from Ghorepani. Poon Hill, at 3,210 meters, is not high enough for the climber to really be affected by the altitude. We reached the peak to see the sunrise and the view of the mountain ranges. It was a heavenly view, full of whitefogged ground surrounded by mountain peaks. When the sunrays touched the mountains, it was like seeing shining gold peaks – breathtaking. The scenery was really amazing and interesting. We got awesome views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Fishtail, and Annapurna South. When we saw the mountain ranges, we forgot all the troubles of the journey. We drank hot tea on the top of Poon Hill and took beautiful shots of the sunrise and mountain views. We spent a good two hours at the summit trying to capture their most beautiful moments.

Then we returned to our hotel and had our breakfast.

After breakfast, we started walking through lovely forests to Ghandruk. On our way, we saw a beautiful

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25 waterfall, frozen because of the cold. A steep uphill walk to the village of Deurali offered more spectacular views of the nearby mountains. We passed through more of the Rhododendron Forest on our way down to the river. Crossing the bridge, we headed up to the village of Tadapani. From Tadapani, we gradually made our way down to Ghandruk.

DAY 4: TREK DOWN TO BIRETHANTI AND DRIVE FROM NAYAPUL TO POKHARA After watching another wonderful sunrise and having a nice breakfast, we walked down through the beautiful Gurung Village. Then, after driving in a tourist bus for an hour, we reached our hotel at Lakeside, Pokhara. Thus, my five days of trekking ends here.

Then, in the evening, we reached Ghandruk, at 1,950 meters. Ghandruk is famous for its homestays and its culture. Here we can see the Gurung people; they are one of the ethnic groups of Nepal who have their own typical cultures, costumes, lifestyles, and importance. This village is one of the most famous tourist destinations because of its cultural importance to Nepal. Many tourists come here to visit the different types of lifestyles and costumes. That day was the last day for our trekking, so I was looking all around. We stayed at the Peaceful Hotel and Lodge, where we received a warm welcome and good service.

DAY 5: BACK TO KATHMANDU We had our breakfast in the hotel in the morning and went back to Kathmandu in a Jagdamba tourist bus. We really had a great time, so I am very thankful to all those who helped me in trekking, especially Sanjeev Thapa Magar for the entire journey.

I hope these photographs help travelers who are looking for a new travel destination; Poon Hill can be a good destination for an interesting adventure.

Instagram : gorkhe1980 Facebook : wangli1980 500px.com/wang72624

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July 2017

▲ Sunrise

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Photo of the Month

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

ARTS & CULTURE

Written and photographed by Lorryn Smit

S

unday afternoons are my favorite. Usually after some chores and work, I go and enjoy some relaxing time in the park while my two dogs play. I reflect on the happiness of the past week and the new challenges that face me in the next. It’s a time that I get to enjoy watching my dogs being dogs.

The utter delight they feel as they sniff the grass and play with other dogs gives me that same feeling of happiness. It’s almost a meditation-like experience.

This particular Sunday was a cloudy afternoon. I was sure it would rain and felt bad for my boys because that meant they had to stay indoors. I continued to work through my “to-do” list, and at around 5:30 p.m., it looked like the weather would hold up. I packed up a beer and the mat, and escorted the two little wagging tails to their playground.

It had been a very productive week, and I was sitting, feeling accomplished and at peace. One of my dogs’ friends arrived, and her family placed themselves near this particular scene. When I greeted them, I noticed how beautiful the greenery looked and how the leaves caught the light perfectly.

To me, this picture embodies everything I enjoy about a warm Sunday afternoon.

Shot with my iPhone 7, edited with VSCO cam.

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27

July 2017

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Do you have any photos that you would like to show to Gwangju (and the world)? Gwangju News features a photo of the month to create more opportunities to promote more photographers based in the Jeollanam-do region and to show off our beautiful province from different areas and angles. Submissions can be posted in the “Photography in the South” Facebook group throughout the preceding month. Alternatively, you can also send your submissions to the editor by email: photos@gwangjunewsgic.com

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July 2017

TRAVEL

28 Around Korea

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Danyang Written and photographed by Stephanie and Ryan Hedger

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RIVERS AND VALLEYS Once people exit the modernity of South Korea’s cities for the countryside, they’re often irreversibly drawn to these natural wonders. Through Danyang County flows the impressive, yet ambiguously named, Namhangang (South Korea River); carving the valley into the wonder of nature that it is today. In a place like this, it’s no wonder that camping, fishing, hang gliding, spelunking, and more activities are at your fingertips. Camping along the

July 2017

ONDAL CULTURE PARK Mixing mountains and powerful rivers is the perfect recipe for creating caves, of which Danyang is the home to many. Two of the most famous sites are the heavily trafficked Ondal Cave and the Ondal Mountain

Fortress, which are both often used for filming Korean historical dramas. Tourists are welcome to try traditional Korean games and tour the grounds, but the real prize of Ondal is the cave at the back of the property. Millions of years old, this cave extends nearly 800 meters into the mountain and houses a meter-deep river. While dark and seemingly inhospitable, fish and insects supposedly live in this mysterious location among the stalagmites and stalactites.

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L

ocated in the mountains of North Chungcheong Province, in the serene valley created between Woraksan and Sobaeksan National Parks, lies the town of Danyang. With Chungju and Yeongju being the nearest cities of any repute, it’s little wonder most people have never been to Danyang County, but this isolation is absolutely one of the area’s selling points. As visitors are immediately transported to a part of South Korea where populations dwindle, nature takes its place at center stage. This area is not devoid of intrigue and activity, however, and a trip to Danyang is certainly worthwhile for those hikers looking for stunning nature and unique experiences.

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30

complex itself. It’s clear why the oftrepeated trope among temple-goers of “you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all” is certainly untrue at this gem of Danyang.

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE The fact of the matter is that Danyang is rarely celebrated for the wonder it contains. What may seem like an out-of-the-way, small town amidst large, national parks is actually an opportunity to get away from the normal rigors of Korea and experience something remarkably different. Whether you’re looking for natural beauty, culture, or thrillseeking adventures, Danyang has a little bit of everything. Sitting on a riverbank with a fishing rod in hand, tent behind you, and hang gliders floating over the nearby apple orchards, it’s easy to see why this slice of heaven has been kept as such a closely guarded secret for so long.

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July 2017

THE AUTHORS

river for a weekend of fishing and Danyang exploration is the recipe for an incredible weekend or holiday vacation.

– GUINSA KOREA’S MOST BEAUTIFUL TEMPLE Probably the most remarkable aspect of Danyang is Guin Temple. This stunning departure from standard temple design and decoration creates a dynamic and awe-inspiring experience. The first thing visitors will notice as they climb to the top of the gate tower is the towering structures

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that defy traditional Korean Buddhist architecture and tower above all but the surrounding mountains.

Surrounded on all sides by towering precipices and rock formations, these buildings flank one another at converging angles reminiscent of nothing else to be found in Korea.

While not the largest temple complex in South Korea, Guinsa has a unique gift for making its visitors feel very small. The temple’s painted buildings climb their way up the valley toward a massive golden temple and offer a stunning view back down on the

Ryan and Stephanie have lived, traveled, and worked in South Korea since 2013.

Based out of Yeosu, they are the duo behind Hedgers Abroad, their blog, which documents their lives through photography, videos, and shared stories. They freelance in their spare time and are on the road constantly.

Blog: www.hedgersabroad.com Facebook: /hedgersabroad Instagram: /hedgersabroad

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Korean Food

The Dog Days in Korea

Written by Cho Namhee

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THE AUTHOR

Cho Namhee currently studies communication at Chonnam National University.

July 2017

Of course, there are a myriad of

Getting down to the facts, nowadays, bosin-tang is strictly sought after only by elders, and there have been numerous efforts made by the government to improve the public image of dog meat consumption ever since criticism was made outside of the country, such as the reconsideration request to the Korean president made by the FIFA president in 2001 for hosting the World Cup Games, and by the French actress and animal rights activist, Brigitte Bardot, writing a personal petition against dog meat consumption to the president. Since then, gross dog meat consumption and trade have gradually shrunk nationwide, consequently terminating Moran Market in Seongnam City, the nation’s largest slaughtering facility.

And the fact that the market has been there since Joseon Dynasty times, indicates that it was a big step forward.

These bits of facts about bosintang may sound tempting and make it seem as though it could be understood as part of the culture, however, there are heated discussions on the issues surrounding the process of slaughtering the animals and different views on consumption of the dish. It is up to you, the reader, to decide whether you feel an adventurous spirit or dislike towards this dish. I am simply stating the facts!

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ultry summer days have come.

The dog days of summer, or boknal (복날), are divided into three specific days in Korea – chobok, jungbok, and malbok, and are explicitly the most nutritioncentric times of the year for Koreans, especially among the older generation. It is strongly believed by the elders that though sitting in a fully air-conditioned room may instantly banish the heat, a hot bowl full of ingredients that correspond to the Five Elements Theory of Oriental philosophy (please refer to the very first food column of the year for more information about the Five Elements Theory) would keep them stabilized.

Thus, it is impossible for the elders in Korea to bear summer without a “perfectly balanced” hot meal, boyang-sik (보양식), which literally means “a meal that invigorates your body or strengthens vitality.”

Before I attempt to touch on this somewhat sensitive and controversial bit of the issue, I have to define myself, and say that I am not a bunny hugger nor animal hater.

In fact, I have never even tried the soup. However, it makes me quite resentful to hear that people outside Korea still think that the majority of Koreans are fond of the dish, or at least, have a full grasp of the dish.

In terms of nutrients, per the symbols of the Five Elements Theory, the dog’s temper is represented as “fire,” and the hot days of summer are represented as “gold,” and according to the philosophy’s calculations, “fire” defeats “gold.” Thus, it was believed that no other dishes were better than bosin-tang for the Korean ancestors in the summer. Furthermore, such livestock as cows and pigs were more valuable and utilized for agricultural means much more so than dogs; therefore, it was more common to have dogs as food. Much of historical Korean literature includes specific recipes and records of dog-meat soup being sold in the common markets. Interestingly, there is a traditional Chinese recipe specially written about a dog-meat meal called “三六經” (sam-yuk-gyeong) meaning “three plus six,” which equals “nine” and shares the same pronunciation as “dog” in Chinese.

FOOD & DRINKS

An Attempt to Get the Facts Right About “Bosin-tang”

foods that are good for your body, particularly in Korea since every restaurant claims that their menu helps your body, at least in some sort of way. However, there are several dishes categorized under boyangsik made with amazingly unusual ingredients. Some of the ingredients of boyang-sik might astound you.

Pullet, eel, mudfish, oyster, catfish, mandarin fish, black goat, and dog are among the ingredients from least intense to most intense. Most of them have been covered by the Gwangju News in previous issues, except one, bosin-tang, or dog soup.

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32 Where to Eat

Patty & Bun

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July 2017

FOOD & DRINKS

Written and photographed by Justin Ramsay

H

aving lived in Gwangju for almost five years, I notice that there are certain themes that seem to crop up when members of the foreign community are together and reminiscing or fondly speaking of things that they miss from back home. Sometimes it’s the beach, a specific music venue, or a sports stadium. However, more often than not, these conversations lean towards the culinary side of things: barbecued ribs, buffalo wings, tacos, hot dogs, burgers, and shakes almost always find their way into these conversations. Luckily, there may be a solution for your burger and shake fix right here in our lovely city. No longer do you have to make the lengthy, expensive pilgrimage to Itaewon or Gangnam in Seoul as Patty and Bun in Bongseong-dong will more than meet your expectations.

Opened less than a year ago, Patty and Bun may be a fairly unknown restaurant to many Gwangju residents as it is not downtown or in one of the busy university districts. The storefront resembles one of the many ubiquitous coffee shops here in Korea with its small patio area adorned with a few round tables and a chalkboard… so one would be forgiven for simply passing by without paying too much attention to the blue-walled establishment, but this would be a mistake.

The interior of the restaurant has minimal decoration with a few pop art prints on the wall that suit it well and create a pleasant, laid-back dining environment. Upon taking our seats at one of the tables inside, we were given very simple, one-page menus printed on recycled paper and attached to a clipboard by one of the two staff working there. One of the menus was an English menu, so even those who

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aren’t too adept at reading Hangeul could order with no hassle. We were very pleasantly surprised at the variety of burgers and side dishes on offer, as well as quite a good selection of drinks.

There are seven different burgers to choose from, all of which are made with 100 percent fresh ground beef on a homemade toasted bun. Spicier options also have a picture of either one or two chili peppers next to their name to give some indication of their spiciness, which is a nice touch. The most budget-friendly burger available is the P&B Original: a traditional patty, cheese, tomato, and lettuce option, which costs 6,000 won. The slightly pricier options are the sundry and basil pesto burgers for 8,500 won and the shrimp burger for 9,000 won. French fries and a soda can be added to any burger option for 4,000 won, or French fries with fruit juice or ade for 6,500 won.

The “others” section of the menu also offers quite a variety, including buffalo wings, fried chicken, shrimp and bacon, and gambas al ajillo (Spanish-style garlic shrimp.) Various sparkling waters and fruit juices are listed in the drinks selection, along with three milkshakes and a decent selection of domestic and imported beers.

The prices are quite reasonable at Patty and Bun, so we ordered quite a variety in order to sample what was on offer. First to arrive at the table were the chili cheese fries, which were not bad, but were definitely not the highlight of the meal. The burgers arrived shortly after, which was very impressive considering the small staff. All four of the burgers that we tried looked great and were a good size

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I highly recommend stopping by Patty and Bun and trying one of their delicious burgers and maybe even some of the sides. The staff are friendly, the service is good, and they definitely know their way around a grill.

PATTY & BUN 광주 남구 제석로80번길 39 1층 Jeseok-ro 80-beongil 39, Namgu, Gwangju Phone: 062-676-6678 Hours: 11:30 am – 11:00 pm Instagram: pattynbun_ Price Range: 10,000 to 20,000 won per person for burger and drinks

July 2017

The other two burgers we tried were more unique and tasted just as good as, if not better than, the spicy options.

I had never thought of putting a healthy amount of basil pesto and rucola on a burger before, but the Basil Pesto Burger made me wish I had. The flavors of the basil and arugula were very present without overshadowing the other ingredients too much – absolutely delicious. The final burger we tried, The Sundry, is quite a popular choice and came highly recommended. This burger contains mozzarella cheese, sundried tomatoes, basil, and granapadano cheese, and again, the flavors of the individual ingredients were very well balanced.

We also tried the Gambas al ajillo from the “others” menu as well as the buffalo wings. Both were very good, especially considering the fact that there is a hot sauce shelf in the restaurant with more than 20 different hot sauces not easily available in Korea to cater to everyone’s taste. These sauces range from mild to very spicy and make a pleasant addition to any dish on the menu. Finally, there are three shakes on the menu, and I tried the Nutella shake. The shake was thick and very sweet, without being sickly, and it rounded the meal off perfectly.

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without being obscenely huge. The Mexico City Burger is just a little spicy, without too much of a kick, so it’s perfect for those of you who enjoy the flavor of jalapenos but don’t want your mouth to be on fire. The second of the spicy burgers on offer is called “The Ambulance,” which has more of a bite. This burger is the perfect marriage of spiciness and flavor, and the beef patty, pepper jack cheese, and onion-flavored chili sauce tasted great together.

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Kitchen Stories

Braised Radish

TRAVEL

Written and photographed by Karly Pierre

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he was a bully.

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July 2017

“Museowoyo!” she tells me. “Scary!”

She scrunches her face and juts two fingers into the air beside her temples like devil’s horns. In no small feat of flexibility, she kicks her leg up, snarls, then laughs wildly.

I like this lady.

“I can’t go to my class reunions because I was so mean to my classmates,” says Choi Seon-hee (최선희). “I’m afraid they might want revenge.”

The 62-year-old mother of two, and grandmother, still exhibits that same fiery, independent, and mischievous spirit that colors so many of the stories she recalls from her youth.

“At 13, I sold my family’s valuable brass for a 2,000-won ticket to Seoul,” says Choi. “A friend of mine whose father was a government official moved there, and I wanted to see her. So I snuck off with six girlfriends from our small

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hometown of Yeosu. It was a big adventure. People in Seoul thought my accent was rough… We all went to a skating rink and wanted to skate, but we didn’t have skates. So we pushed people down, hit them, and took their skates and mufflers… When I got home, my dad beat the people who bought our family brass from me, then gave me 60 lashes on the bottom of my feet. But all of my classmates wanted to know what Seoul was like. They were really curious. I taught them dirty words I had learned in Seoul and started a trend.”

She was scrappy because she had to be. When she was young, most people were struggling just to eat and stay alive. Outside of special occasions such as ancestral rites (jesa, 제사) or the birthday of an elder family member, the family only ate rice and side dishes. No meat.

“However, my father loved to drink, especially in the winter,” says Choi. “He would often stay out late drinking with his friends, and he had a particular habit when he arrived home. Even in the wee hours of the morning, he would wake up the entire family and have my mother cook

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35 up two or three large chickens. He would lovingly encourage us children to eat. Even though it was the middle of the night and we were half asleep, I still remember how delicious those chickens were.”

Her mother taught her to cook sole (seodae, 서대) – Yeosu’s most famous fish – when she was 18 years old.

“I learned how to make braised sole (seodae-jjim, 서대찜), grilled sole (seodaegui, 서대구이), and sole soup (seodae-tang, 서대탕),” says Choi. “I will never forget being in the kitchen together with my mother and older sisters as they scolded me while I learned how to cook sole. Then the whole family would sit down together to eat.”

Now, Choi owns a restaurant called Han Baeng Nyeon (한백년) near Damyang on the road to the May 18th National Cemetery. A small paper sign on the restaurant wall tells the special of the day: braised cutlass fish (galchi-jorim, 갈치조림). Against another wall are two large refrigerators stocked with homemade food and health tonics that she also sells on the Home Shopping Channel. Behind her restaurant are rows of large, earthenware pots (onggi, 옹기) and an impressive warehouse where she packages her patented creations with the help of her daughter, Kim Ji-hye (김지혜).

Choi offers me a cup of one of her concoctions – a thick, sweet, creamy smoothie.

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“My mother was very concerned with the health of our family whenever she was choosing ingredients,” says Choi. “She also loved radish, especially in the winter when the radish’s natural sweetness is at its peak. Because it was healthier for our bodies than medicine, and it helped to protect against colds, she made it for us almost every day… My mother died several years ago, but I still miss her all the time. She was the only person I know of who made this dish, and the taste recalls wonderful memories of my dear mother.

Whenever I eat it, I feel like she is still with me.”

Ingredients: 1 large radish 1 strip laver, (맨김) not roasted (broken into 3 pieces) Sauce: 5 chives 1 dried red pepper 3 tablespoons of soy sauce 3 cloves of crushed garlic 1 tablespoon of red pepper powder 2 tablespoons of plum syrup 1 tablespoon of sesame seeds 1 tablespoon of sesame oil Cheongju wine (clear, refined rice wine) Ingredients for stock: 1 onion Anchovies Kombu (다시마) 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Cut the radish into 1 cm-thick circles.

Soak the radish in a mixture of vinegar water for 10 minutes (ratio of water to vinegar should be 9:1).

Take out the radish from the vinegar water and rinse it twice using cold water, and then dry it.

Put the radish into a steamer for 15–20 minutes.

Make stock from the onion, anchovies, and kombu (use about 200 ml of water). Cook the stock well, then remove the onion, anchovies, and kombu from the broth.

To make the sauce, add soy sauce, red pepper powder, sesame seeds, sesame oil, plum syrup, and garlic to the stock. Cut the chives into 3 mm pieces. Lastly, tear the dried seaweed using your hands and mix it well.

Put the steamed radish evenly in a plate and spread the sauce on the top.

Make 3 layers (steamed radish >> sauce, repeat three times). Julienne (cut) the dried red pepper and garnish.

July 2017

She stops the car as I begin to drive away.

“Come back soon,” she says, handing me a handful of fresh wild mint from the front yard of her restaurant. She jokingly snarls at me again and waves goodbye. I bury my nose in the fragrant mint. She’s not so scary.

Choi chose this dish because, when growing up, her mother would make this dish frequently, and she has never seen this dish anywhere else.

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“There are 17 medicinal plants in there,” she says. “Do you see the mulberries inside? I once worked on a silkworm farm.

For 20 days, I could only sleep for two or three hours because I had to constantly feed mulberries to the silkworms. But after that, I began to love mulberries. I make tea with the leaves, too.”

BRAISED RADISH 무김찜

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36

Digging Deeper into Taiwan TRAVEL

Written and photographed by Kim Dong-hun (8ball)

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July 2017

even years ago, I hadn’t been interested in Taiwan at all, like many other Koreans, and I didn’t know much about the country either. But now I am head-over-heels in love with Taiwan. I have visited Taiwan seven times and even stayed there for about three months back in 2014 simply because I wanted to do so. This experience helped me to better understand the country and its people.

Before telling you more about Taiwan, let me begin by asking you one simple question: When you think about this country, what are the images that pop into your head?

Possible answers: –Taiwan is a tropical island country.

–It belongs to China but is a breakaway province.

–People often mistake Taiwan for Thailand.

–Tourists often buy or try bubble tea, pineapple cakes, daewang (big-sized) sponge cakes, and nougat crackers.

–Taipei 101, the tallest skyscraper in Taiwan (509 meters).

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–Taiwan is frequently and severely affected by earthquakes and typhoons.

–Through the Korean TV travelreality show, “Grandpas over Flowers,” starring some old TV actors, Taiwan became better known to more people.

–Many night markets are across the country.

–Taiwan has relatively cheaper prices compared to those found in Korea.

–Chiang Kai-shek was a founding father of the Republic of China.

–Tainan City is a sister city of Gwangju City (“Gwangju Road” is in Tainan).

–Jeremy Lin is an NBA player, once known as “Linsanity” and whose parents are from Taiwan.

–The 2/28 Incident, which was an anti-government uprising that caused 10,000 deaths.

–The 2017 Summer Universiade is to be held in Taipei this summer.

First of all, I want to clarify the wrong perception that some of us might have about Taiwan – that Taiwan is a part of mainland China, like an independent state or province such as Hong Kong or Macao. I know some Chinese citizens, including their government,

continue to maintain that Taiwan belongs to China under the notion of the “One China Policy,” but Taiwan, also known as the Republic of China (ROC), has always been an independent country, although it has been, and still is, strongly influenced by China, officially known as the People’s Republic of China (PRC) amid ongoing diplomatic and military conflicts between the two countries. Thus, Taiwanese national athletes cannot wear the uniform that bears their national flag and official name when they participate in some international sporting events like the Olympics. Instead of ROC, “Chinese Taipei” should appear on their uniforms. Currently, there is no Taiwanese embassy in Seoul as there is no Korean embassy in Taipei because Korea, as the last country in Asia with official diplomatic relations with the ROC, ended its diplomatic relations with Taiwan in 1992.

Although few Koreans know much about Taiwan, Korea and Taiwan have several things in common in terms of history. For example, when Japan

2017-07-05 �� 2:06:11

37 tried to advance into China in the 16th century, the Japanese leader, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, considered Korea and Taiwan as gateways to China, so he demanded the way to be cleared for his troops. But, since Taiwan was further away and the troops were highly likely to face chopping waters and typhoons on the way, Korea was chosen as a better option. This is what led to the so-called “Japanese Invasions of Korea,” ending in 1598 following the withdrawal of the Japanese forces from the Korean Peninsula.

So, apart from the above-mentioned facts that link Korea and Taiwan, I decided to go to Taiwan and stay there for 90 days because I wanted to better understand Taiwan in every possible way and explore all options available in case I was to settle there later.

During my stay from June to August, the weather was extremely hot and humid. When it was scorching hot, it was like my face was being blowdried by a hair dryer. As a lot of heavy rain and typhoons are expected throughout the summer season, I recommend visiting Taiwan from

–Go to a temple and make offerings.

–Burn joss paper on the sidewalk in front of your house throughout the month.

–Wear or carry a protective amulet.

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October to March.

The Chinese Ghost Month falls either in July or August, depending on the lunar calendar, and people believe that during the ghost festival, the gates of hell are open, and all the hungry ghosts are unleashed into the world to search of food, money, and entertainment. The following is a list of don’ts during the Chinese Ghost Month: –Don’t go swimming.

–Don’t go out alone at night.

–Don’t whistle after dark.

–Don’t turn your head around if someone pats you on the shoulder.

–Don’t urinate on a tree.

Instead, the following are what people are encouraged to do:

While I stayed at my best friend’s and his girlfriend’s parents’ home for nearly three months, I learned even more about Taiwanese society, especially the difference in garbage disposal methods. I discovered cockroaches inside and outside the house. Of course, it depends on the type of residence or the surrounding

neighborhood, but cockroaches are common because of the high humidity. In Korea, garbage is separated and placed outside the house for the garbage truck to take away. However, in Taiwan, you need to keep your garbage at home and wait until the garbage truck, playing some cheerful music, comes to your neighborhood. Then, people come out of their house and toss their garbage bags unto the truck. Although we throw away or remove receipts, Taiwanese people keep and collect them because they are like lottery tickets when receipts are drawn and their numbers announced, providing cash prizes for the receipt holders.

Taiwan never ceases to amaze me. I never tire of this country. Therefore, I am planning to visit Taiwan and my Taiwanese friends again in the future.

When I finally get there, I will first try my all-time favorite food, Lu Rou Fan (Taiwanese minced pork rice), with my best friend, Steven. I can’t wait!

I hope my story interests you and hopefully also motivates you to go visit this amazing country. So why don’t you book a trip to Taiwan sometime?

Taiwan is waiting for you! * The views expressed here are solely those of the author, purely based on his own experiences.

July 2017

▲ Lu Rou Fan (rice with minced pork)

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Both Taiwan and Korea had been under the rule of Imperial Japan for decades, although there are stark differences in the two countries’ perceptions and attitudes towards Japan. These similarities are what led me to read books on Taiwanese history, search for relevant information on the Internet, and visit the National Museum of History in Taipei. While thousands of people were killed, tortured, or went missing during the May 18 Democratization Movement here in Gwangju in defiance of the then-military junta, an estimated 10,000 Taiwanese citizens were reported killed during the February 28 Incident (or Massacre), also known as the 2/28 Incident, an anti-government uprising that was violently suppressed by the Kuomintang-led Republic of China government. During the Korean War in the 1950s, Taiwan provided material aid to South Korea.

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TRAVEL

38

Dhor Barahi Mandir: A Hindu Temple in Nepal Written by Prabesh Paudel and Jocelyn Wright

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

S

o, dear friend, tell me another of your charming stories about Nepali culture.

Okay, let me tell you about a famous temple near my hometown, Dhorphirdi, located in Tanahu district. It’s called Dhor Barahi Mandir. The temple is small but really famous among Hindu devotees because of its natural spring pool, where the water level mysteriously rises and falls. It is located at the top of a steep hill, approximately five kilometers off of the highway to Pokhara. Pilgrims usually hike, but many tourists rent an off-road van, which takes 30 minutes to reach the parking lot. Then, you still need to hike 15 to 20 minutes to reach the temple.

Oof! I bet you sweat a lot!

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Yeah, but there’s a saying in Hindu culture: “If you choose a difficult way to reach a temple, you will please the gods and goddesses, and they will grant you more blessings.” So, many people choose to hike to the temple.

That makes sense. Tell me more.

Devotees visit this temple to pray for a loyal and loving husband or wife, fulfillment in their marriages, good health, and long life, especially for a husband.

Then, I’ll definitely have to try that!

So, what’s the temple like? What do you see, smell, and hear when you step out of the van?

Well, you first see many stalls with colorful items. They normally sell baskets with everything needed for worship in the temple. They contain

candles dipped in ghee (clarified butter), incense (e.g., agarwood), camphor, flowers, raw coconut, and colorful threads to be worn after meeting the pandit (Hindu priest).

I’m visualizing the vivid colors...

Okay, then what?

With your basket in hand, you can start hiking to the temple. After a few minutes, you can smell food being made ready to serve from the side restaurants in front of the hotels near the parking lot. There are so many local snacks you can taste, like aloo chop (potato croquettes), samosas (fried pastries made of green beans, green chillies, steamed potato, and onions), sel roti (rice doughnuts), chana masala (chickpea curry), and, of course, you can have milk tea.

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39 Mmm! This all sounds so mouthwateringly amazing!

But you must remember not to eat anything before offering puja (prayers) to the devi (goddess)!

Good to know! Okay, so what next?

Next, you should remove any leather items you are wearing and your shoes before entering the temple to pay respect to the devi within.

Okay, and how do you do that?

Be patient, I’ll get to that. So, after this mesmerizing smell and before you finally reach the temple gate, there are many ghantas (bells) hanging along the way to the temple.

Normally, you ring the ghantas to inform the devi of your arrival.

This is similar to Korean culture!

Um. So, inside the temple, you can offer puja to the devi with the pandit chanting some holy mantras. You might ask why Hindus do puja. Well, puja is the act of showing deep respect to the gods. We do this through songs, prayer, and other rituals, like blowing a shell horn. Once we offer puja, we can feel inner peace. The mesmerizing sound of ghantas and the chanting of mantras make us feel so calm. That’s why we stand in line for hours to get a glimpse of the devi.

Oh, my ears are tickling imagining the lovely, ringing sounds!

You can also hear many holy chants and songs in the temple arena. They sound good for the soul and mind.

Like “Ya Devi Sarva Bhuteshu”?

Exactly! Then, after arriving at the temple, you can see the small pool where water flows in from a rocky hill. Before entering the temple, you have to wash your hands with the pool water. Many people are surprised by the many big fishes in the pool. These are really old and are worshipped as gods, so trying to harm them can land you in trouble.

I always wondered about that. Okay, go on.

Remember the pool I mentioned before? Actually, that pool is also the place where goats are slaughtered as part of the sacrifice to the devi. People normally offer her goats when they believe that their wish has come true or they are going to start something new and want her blessing. Of course, another way to pay tribute to the devi is to buy and fly a pair of pigeons.

I see. So, now can you eat?

Yes, after you offer your prayers to the devi, you are free to eat. You can taste

▲ Previous page: Dhor Barahi Mandir Temple, This page: (From top) Aloo chop

and green pea curry; Nepali street food; the writers.

the food I mentioned earlier.

Yes, that was so fascinating! Your stories always move me. Speaking of which, when can we go?!

Tanahu District

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Yum! After this romantic journey, how do you feel about my hometown temple story? I hope you liked it and are also eager to visit in person.

July 2017

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2017-07-07 �� 2:44:55

40 GIC Talk Preview

COMMUNITY

Science and Religion: Friend or Foe? Written by Immanuel Dhanasingh

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

T

here have been many debates and articles that we might have gone through based on these two famous topics: science and religion. Religion came into existence and was followed way before science could even take off. Historically, the church has often been a patron of the sciences. We have several well-known scientists who were religious, like Galileo Galilei, Isaac Newton, Carl Linnaeus, and Michael Faraday, just to name a few. As much as science has grown, the gap between science and religion has widened. Although there have been several religious scholars and scientists who have tried to narrow the gap, the outcome always seems to be futile.

Being a Christian since my birth and a student of science for the past ten years, I have seen a widening gap between science and religion. I can see the reason behind this gap and a possible solution to narrowing it down. My GIC talk is going to be focused mainly on the three

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controversial topics that instigate the conflict between science and religion: the Earth being 6,000 years old, Noah’s ark that saved him from a worldwide flood, and the Sun that stood still upon hearing Joshua’s prayer.

How can we just believe that our Earth is 6,000 years old when carbon dating reveals that the Earth is 4.5 billion years old? In the case of Noah’s flood, the Bible says it was a worldwide flood that wiped out all human beings except Noah and his family. If that were true, research shows that the present population could exist only if Noah’s sons had 88 children each. In case of Joshua’s sun-stopping story (Joshua 10), while almost all Christians claim that God is so powerful that he can make the sun stand still, even elementary school students learn that the sun always stands still and it is the earth that revolves. If religion cannot address these contradictions, it will continue to be humiliated in front

of science. Fortunately, there is an answer to all the questions raised above from the Bible itself, which I will deliver through my talk.

I see that religion, science, politics, culture, arts, literature, etc. have to evolve over time. If any of these fails to evolve, they will start losing their light. In my perspective, religion, especially Christianity, has become stagnant. How does religion evolve?

Through the Word of God given through the Person sent by God, like Moses in the Old Testament and Jesus in the New Testament. It is time for God to send another man of mission in order to raise the level of religion.

As we have seen science reach its pinnacle of development over the past century, Christianity remains in danger of being stagnant without evolving. I believe this gap between science and religion must be bridged or it will become a stumbling block to people’s faith. Join me for this special GIC Talk on Saturday, July 8 in the GIC’s first-floor auditorium!

2017-07-05 �� 2:06:16

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2017-07-05 �� 2:06:17

42 Book Review

Shantaram by Gregory Roberts

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

ARTS & CULTURE

Written by Maddy Miller

T

here are some things easily distinguishable as fact or fiction – that two plus two equals four, how much kimchi is too much kimchi, that twelve toddlers plus one teacher equals one nightmare, that so-called alternative facts are definitely not a thing – but one thing not so easily discernable is whether the events in the novel Shantaram actually occurred. Author Gregory Roberts did, both in fact and in the novel, escape from jail in Australia and run from the cops for an extended period of time to live in Bombay. After publishing his novel, Roberts essentially disappeared from the public eye, saying he was “moving into a creative seclusion” (http://w w w.shantaram.com/).

Many of the characters that “Lin” (Roberts’ nickname given to him by a friend, and used here to differentiate Roberts, the character, from Roberts, the author) encounters in his time in Bombay are verified as real people with similar characteristics, which have simply been over-exaggerated for the sake of the story. Others, though, such as Roberts’ first friend in India, Prabhakar, are contested to be only very tangentially related to their real-life counterparts. But, regardless of how grounded in truth it is, the book is both an exciting adventure and a thought-provoking read, though informal treatise on what makes a good life.

Several themes stood out to me in

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this novel, as, like Lin, I am also a stranger to the country I live in – though, to be fair, I’m not wanted by the federal government for escaping a high-security prison. One of the first themes I noticed Roberts touches on is being a free spirit. Lin constantly wrestles with the idea of whether he is truly free from his past life and considers his current friends and various jobs as things that tie him down in varying degrees. But he also recognizes the love that brings value to each of those relationships, even if they are not necessarily present in his life anymore. He has rough encounters in drug dens; fights fires in a slum where he lives and works as the unofficial clinic doctor, defending the inhabitants in the name of social justice; and busts into a brothel to rescue a friend of a friend posing as an American diplomat, hoping his accent will come off as convincing.

He falls into a father–son relationship with a mob boss, Khader Khan, and starts working in the various fields the group controls. Then, just to top it all off, he goes on a gun-run mission to Khader’s hometown only to return in defeat after being shot at by Afghans and Russian fighter planes.

It is almost too exciting to be true – there are too many adventures, too packed together, and he lives to tell the tale? Surely, everyone is thinking along with me: Why doesn’t that kind of stuff happen in my life?! (Not that I really want it to, I just want to have the story to tell afterwards, I guess).

Another comparison I drew between the story and my life here in Korea is an attempt to embrace my new culture. Lin experiences several moments of frustration in learning about India, especially in relation to communication and expectations about time. People’s sense of early and punctual can be vastly different.

Lin’s friends generally expect him to trust them completely, rarely giving him any information about their plans, saying simply, “Come with me.”

Lin often hesitates, but his greatest adventures often come from those moments when he reminds himself to surrender to the new way of life, leaning on his Bombay friends in a way we are led to believe he has never done with others before. Because the values of the many Indian cultures are different from what he originally expects, he adjusts his expectations of others. It makes me wonder how much of Korean culture I ought to surrender to in order to have my own great adventures.

Other themes I detected in the novel include family, going with your gut, revenge, and the tension between doing good and being happy. Overall, Shantaram is full of escapades and escapes, love and longlost tragedy, jealousy and jail, torture and tolerance, friendships and fried food… more than you would think its 1,100 pages could hold. But you will have to read the book to get all that for yourself.

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Movie Review

43

가족의 탄생

Family Ties Written by Cole Clouse

T

he phrase “Never judge a book by its cover” is an apt statement when talking about this movie. The poster I have seen for years is a screwball-esque family comedy with cute poses and smiling faces. What we instead get is a standard drama of three distinct, independent chapters. Even the most basic of reviews for this type of film will inevitably lead to minor spoilers. This review will keep them to a minimum, but everything in the following paragraph will talk about how the chapters do come together.

Through all of this, we then see the fruits of labor in the final chapter.

We come back to our strangers on the train and realize the connections each one has to the previous chapters.

Now, seeing their relationship bud and grow, we see a less intense but equally dramatic course of their relationship. Jealousy, acceptance, the proper roles of boyfriend/ girlfriend within a romance, family

Not knowing what to expect from a corny-looking poster of smiles and cute poses, Family Ties is more than that. Coming across more as a collection of one-act plays connecting at the end, Family Ties gives the audience a small study on genealogy within the confines of two families.

Be they blood related or adopted, siblings both step and half, family by default or by choice, we all have our stories. Some are good. Some are bad. But with each generation a new story will emerge. A new chapter to be told. One that can be told on its own but never appreciated fully until its past is explored.

THE AUTHOR Cole loves watching movies. Movies are meant to be watched. It’s a match made in heaven.

July 2017

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No sooner does this chapter end than we are introduced to a mother– daughter dynamic that is anything but pleasant. A hot-headed, head-strong daughter at odds with the mother’s less-than-moral life decisions comes to a breaking point. The tension feels real and in an interesting reversal of conventional mother–daughter tropes, it is the daughter’s sense of morality that finds her coming head to head with the matriarch’s relationship decisions. While the dynamic is unique, the end result feels conventional. Tragedy strikes and any type of independence is cut short.

acceptance. All come together in an honest and, quite frankly, hilariously awkward ending. A much underrated and, quite frankly, amazing aspect of Korean culture that is amazing from an outsider’s perspective is the openness and brashness of a Korean ajumma. If you are one to appreciate this, the final scene will leave you with a grin on your face guaranteed.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Taking its title quite literally, Family Ties shows the unique ways in which families come together. Any sort of traditional marriage followed by children, followed by grandchildren, and so on and so on, Family Ties presents the formation of a more unique family dynamic in rather unconventional ways. We are first introduced to a young woman and young man sitting together on a train.

Casual flirting over the proper way to eat eggs (“they just go great together with a soda”) is suddenly shifted to a young woman reconnecting with her ne’er-do-well brother and his much older wife. With this sudden revelation comes the hardship and

friction between the sister and wife that results in a quiet, solemn scene showcasing the passing of seasons and years in a brief span.

2017-07-05 �� 2:06:18

ARTS & CULTURE

44 Gwangju Writes

Tip of the Tongue

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

Written by Amy-Leigh Braaf Photographed by Omer553

K

itchen knives, and stomach hives.

Doctor Sericola had just left. He had claimed that the rashes were most likely a result of Noah’s unbalanced diet. Noah was convinced otherwise.

He truly believed his grandmother, Daphne, was giving him hives. He wondered if moving to Cape Town would benefit his aspirations to study

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linguistics and etymology, or if it was just contributing to his early death, much like it had to his grandfather Oupa’s. It was just Noah and Daphne now in a house with flower-print tiles and a leaking geyser heater; two traits his grandfather had adored about his home and refused to replace.

Noah’s grandmother claimed that before she had married Oupa, she

had been a former ballerina and had met Noah’s grandfather after one of her performances. After having watched several performances, Oupa had eventually congratulated Daphne and had given her a bouquet of flowers. Noah would nod, knowing full well (as the entire family knew) that when Daphne said “ballerina” it actually meant “exotic dancer for underground jazz clubs in the 60s,”

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45 and when she said a “bouquet of flowers,” it meant a shot of tequila.

Daphne was not embarrassed by her profession as a young woman.

In fact, she was incredibly proud of her achievements among the wellrenowned jazz cats of Cape Town. She had been one of the most desirable women at the time. The truth is that Daphne’s memory was deteriorating as fast as the sales were rising for the koeksisters she sold after Sunday mass. Her short-term memory loss had become worse over the years, and Noah had decided to move in to give a helping hand. Cleaning out the fridge had become a weekly ritual.

Daphne would go to the local market every day and purchase the same product, put it at the back of the fridge and forget about it. Last week, he had found three whole chickens that were approaching fossilization.

Noah was irritated by Daphne’s inconsideration, as, clearly, she was unaware of the detrimental effects of salmonella.

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The bumps on his stomach weren’t red or orange; they were vermillion, which was the one color that he distinctly remembered not using out of his acrylic art set. The teachers had called in his mother one day to discuss their concern for his lack of enthusiasm in any extracurricular activities, so he had been forced to choose between trying out for the rugby team or art class. If he weren’t allergic to grass, his life may have taken a whole other path. He wondered if the hives would last for the period of time that he lived with his grandmother, or at least until the cortisone that the doctor prescribed to him began to work into his system.

His grandmother Daphne, on the other hand, was a firm believer that anything could be cured with vinegar: even a broken heart.

Daphne stood directly behind the kitchen counter. She had set aside the roti and, with a steel brush in hand, began to vivaciously brush on the cow’s tongue. A few days before, Noah had spotted her behind the local spaza shop talking to Fatima Essa, the neighborhood’s infamous meat importer. Nobody knew how she was doing it, but for some reason she knew the ins and outs of the black market of meat consumption.

Noah watched in distaste as a strand of her silver hair fell onto the piece of meat. She was preparing a meal for a blind date with a man called Benjie that she had met on an online dating site for the elderly. Noah was disgusted, it had taken two years for Daphne to get over her husband’s death, and now she was back on the market? Late at night, when Noah’s insomnia began acting up again, he could hear her little delicate fingers slowly typing on the keyboard of the PC that his parents had gotten

A few nights after Oupa’s death, Noah had heard strange sounds coming from Daphne’s bedroom. He peeked through the keyhole and saw that she was fully dressed in black, and was sitting facing South, on a purple yoga mat that Lyla, Noah’s older sister, had left the previous year around Christmas time. Daphne was convinced that Oupa’s spirit hadn’t been collected yet and that she had to take matters into her own hands and contact what she called “the beyond.” She had removed all of the mirrors from the house, because she read that spirits bounce off from their reflections and therefore cannot ascend. She also banned all of Oupa’s favorite foods from the house because she believed that not even his ghost could resist her biryani.

Daphne clapped her hands together and filled the kitchen’s air with a glorious explosion of flour. At that moment, the doorbell rang; it was clear that their guest had arrived.

THE AUTHOR

Amy-Leigh Braaf is 22 years old and has a BA in film production and English literature from the University of Cape Town. She is currently living in Ilsan, Gyeonggi-do, and working as an English teacher. She has worked for The Varsity Newspaper in Cape Town, freelanced as an illustrator and filmmaker, had her own radio show, and even started her own baking business.

However, she feels the happiest when she writes about the stories she experiences along with the photographs she takes. Her passion for photography and art has grown upon her arrival here, and it has become a driving force in the way she lives my life and how she intends on capturing it.

July 2017

Noah was aware that, due to his hyperactive imagination, selfdiagnosing himself according to online resources had never benefited him. In the previous year, he had been convinced that he was in the process of having an aortic aneurysm because he had sneakily taken a puff of a cigarette behind the chapel with the priest’s son, Archie. This was, of course, something that he had spent months repenting for, not even ten “Hail Marys” and four “Our Fathers” could absolve him of that guilt. It was

Daphne after her husband’s death.

They should’ve expected this.

However, Noah had to admit that his grandmother had changed for the better in a short period of time. Her paranoia was driving him insane.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

As they sat in the kitchen together, Noah watched his grandmother knead the roti dough with a content expression of familiarity. When she wasn’t contorting her face in a face of distaste for something, she could look quite ethereal. She had the type of face that you couldn’t stop looking at. The type of face that still held a resemblance to her younger self, yet had a refined and distinguishable attractiveness in its own right.

a phase of rebellion in his life that had lasted for about three days, and now, the LORD was punishing him.

Noah slumped against the kitchen cupboard, lifted up his shirt to look at the damage, and sighed.

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46 Health

Breaking the Silence: Mental Healthcare Access in Gwangju

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ental health is never a simple or easy topic to address, but it is a very real and immediate element in everyone’s life. We all want to feel happy. We all want to be mentally stable. And we hope that our choices take us down the right path. Yet, one of the most essential and undeniable aspects of life is adversity. In the case of mental health, we may be challenged by emotional and physical stress, trauma, and genetic dispositions, which can lead to a

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

COMMUNITY

Written by Josh Garcia

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blur of negative emotions and confusion. What is most important to know is that you are not alone in overcoming these difficulties, and our first step in helping comes with breaking the silence.

The topic of mental health is often considered taboo in Korea. As many different definitions and approaches to mental health are currently debated throughout the world, modern-day Korea has most generally settled upon an attempt to provide counseling for family and youth situations, while doctors and psychiatrists hastily write off anti-depressant prescriptions for those brave enough to address their hardships openly. The main issue, culturally, comes from a notion to “save face.”

For many Koreans, there is not a strong awareness of mental illness, so those who are considered moody or eccentric are often given the advice to simply “get over it.”

With this, there is also a prevailing stigma that someone feeling depressed is weak and unfit, which can lead

to social shaming and even pose a risk to one’s job security. When you combine these factors with the stress of long school and work schedules, as well as the heavy drinking customs endorsed by many work environments, the results can be catastrophic. Korea currently holds the second highest suicide rate in the world, according to the World Health Organization. The silver lining here is that there are some immediate steps you can take to improve your own mental health or serve as a guide to those in need.

Within a culture so full of stigma regarding feelings of loneliness or disparity, you may find that simply talking to someone is a huge relief.

Whether it is to a friend or someone from a volunteer counseling group, voicing your troubles aloud has proven to be extremely therapeutic for many locals who have simply never had an outlet for their thoughts. Currently, the Gwangju International Center provides counseling for its members and is a fantastic resource for knowing which options are available to Koreans and foreigners. Through their efforts to help the international community here, they have gathered and shared with me some of the top resources

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47 in Gwangju. Contact and pricing information for all of the resources mentioned here will be listed at the end of the article.

With the large majority of leading mental healthcare facilities located in Seoul, it is often difficult for foreigners who don’t speak Korean to find proper counseling services elsewhere. This is especially the case for victims of rape or other traumas who do not match the criteria for family and youth clinics. Additionally, much of the English counseling that is available in Gwangju is provided by male staff. The GIC recommends St. John of God Hospital as a top resource in Gwangju. The hospital has English-speaking volunteers available, and there are doctors who specialize in different types of situations, depending on what the counselee requests help for. The path to counseling/therapy will start first with a visit to a general practitioner to run a few tests and match you with one of the hospital’s therapists. St. John of God has one female therapist who can speak English, which is rare in Gwangju. Two other options for English speakers are Chosun University Hospital and Kwangju Christian Hospital.

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Special thanks to the GIC for compiling the information below and for their counseling services. More information can be found at http://eng.gic.or.kr/ program/counsel.php

MENTAL HEALTH CARE SERVICE PROVIDERS St. John of God Hospital (요한병원) Address: 32 Taebong-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju Phone: 062-510-3311~2 (Hospital Administration) Consultation Hours: Weekdays 8:30~17:00 / Sat. 8:30~12:30 • Appointments only available by reservation 2–3 days in advance.

Mention counseling (상담진료 Sangdam jillyo) • Process for psychotherapist: Meet a psychiatrist first, and you will be assigned to a therapist according to his or her assessment. * Please bring your current medication prescription and doctor’s note (소견서) for the reference.

Fees: Meeting a psychiatrist: around 50,000 won (with national health insurance); otherwise, 100,000–120,000 won Meeting a therapist: around 800,000 won/1 hour (each visit) Chosun University Hospital (조선대학교병원) Address: 365 Pilmun-daero, Dong-gu, Gwangju Phone: 062-220-3770 Email: imac@chosun.ac.kr / imac.cuh@gmail.com Homepage: http://hosp.chosun.ac.kr/?site=ihcc • English-speaking coordinator available • Online reservation available Kwangju Christian Hospital (광주기독병원) Address: 37 Yangrim-ro, Nam-gu, Gwangju Phone: 062-650-5115 Consultation Hours: Weekdays 9 am - 5 pm Website: http://www.kch.or.kr/eng/about.htmlb • English-speaking helper available at the lobby.

• English-speaking doctors available.

July 2017

For individuals who are seeking a steadier and/or Western approach to therapy, many expats in Korea have utilized online video chat sessions with licensed therapists/counselors from their home countries, usually via Skype. Recommendations for

Though there is no cure-all method for mental health, we must take the time to recognize its significance and find ways to normalize these situations. Similar to the Disney/ Pixar film Inside Out, our stages of anger or sadness are a perfectly natural part of the human experience, and no individual should feel that their only option is to bury these unpleasant emotions for the illusion of eternal happiness. A healthy diet, some exercise, a proper amount of rest, and access to sunlight are a healthy recipe for anyone, but we

often need to acknowledge that more formal and professional aid is needed for individual situations. If you feel that your thoughts have been leading you toward a negative or confusing headspace, please take the first step by opening up and reaching out. We are here for you.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

From the three hospitals mentioned above, individuals will be able to obtain professional help. However, it is important to note that counseling visits may be very limited in time and frequency depending on the therapist. After the initial consultation, further counseling may be scheduled once a week or not at all. Anti-depression medicine is commonly prescribed during the first meeting as well.

such services can be found online and are sometimes referenced in expat Facebook groups.

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48 Expat Living

Recycling and Garbage Disposal Written by GIC Staff * From Gwangju Guidebook, 3rd Edition

COMMUNITY

W

aste matter, excluding food waste, reusable waste (recyclable), and large waste items such as furniture should be bagged in standard plastic garbage bags (called sseuregi bongtu, 쓰레기봉투), which are designated specifically for each district.

You can buy these garbage bags from any local store (supermarket) in your district. What is most important is the name of each district printed on these bags. They come in various sizes (5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 liters). Fill the garbage bags, tie the bag twice in the shape of a cross, and leave the bags in any designated disposal area.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

FOOD WASTE Inside apartment complexes, communal food waste bins are provided so residents can dispose of food waste together. In the case of a private house, villa, or oneroom, residents can buy a food waste bin to dispose of their food waste individually. Markets sell a specific sticker each month to attach to the waste bin, costing 140 won per every 3 liters (e.g., 280 won for 6 liters).

Food waste is collected every day in Gwangju, except Sundays. You can put a food waste bin out in the street, and later the waste disposal team will come to empty the bin’s contents. Make sure you put the lid on properly to contain the smell and prevent stray animals from picking through the trash.

RECYCLING Boxes or containers are placed in specific areas of apartment complexes to collect recyclable materials. In the case of private houses, residents should sort recyclable materials by type (plastic, plastic wrap, paper, glass, and/ or cans), put them into individual plastic bags, and then place them outside for collection on the day designated for each district. If recyclable materials are mixed with general waste, the bags will not be collected.]

waste items, a waste disposal fee is charged, but prices differ depending on volume.

How to Dispose of Large Waste Items: 1. Notify the local district office (gu-cheong).

2. The district office will confirm the matter and issue a sticker or stickers.

3. Put the stickers on pertinent items.

4. The district office will then collect the items.

Contact Information of Collecting Firms (Cleaning Administration Division of each District Office) Dong-gu Office: 062-608-2442 Seo-gu Office: 062-360-7667 Nam-gu Office: 062-607-3632 Buk-gu Office: 062-410-6521 Gwangsan-gu Office: 062-960-8482 FREE COLLECTION OF LARGE WASTE ITEMS If you want to receive free collection services, you should make a reservation. Only home appliances are allowed.

Since other items such as furniture do not fall under home appliances, you must pay an extra charge to dump those items (see phone numbers above). A minimum of three small electronic items will be collected (hair dryers, printers, electric fans, and other such items).

Korea Electronics Recycling Cooperative (전자제품폐기물콜센터) Phone Number: 1599-0903 Website: www.edtd.co.kr

LARGE WASTE ITEMS Waste that cannot fit into standard waste bags, such as furniture, electric home appliances, bedding, office machines, and air conditioners, should be collected separately. Every time each local center collects large

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2017-07-05 �� 2:06:21

49 Survival Korean includes the most essential Korean phrases you need to know while traveling or living in Korea. The expressions come with detailed explanations as well as fun and useful information about the situation where they are used.

Talk to Me In Korean

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Survival Korean!

Make your stay in Korea much easier and enjoy it to the fullest with Survival Korean!

Whether you are just traveling or living in Korea, this book, the perfect size that can fit right in your purse, will come in handy whenever you want something.

(body part) + -이/가 아파요. [(body part) + -i/ga a-pa-yo.]: My (body part) hurts. (body part) + -을/를 다쳤어요. [(body part) + -eul/reul da-cheo-sseoyo.]: My (body part) hurts.

EDUCATION

In Korea, instead of walking through the aisles of a pharmacy to pick up over-the-counter medicine, many people consult with the pharmacists to get medicine. Simply tell the pharmacist your symptoms using one or both of these two phrases, and the pharmacist will go behind the counter and get some medication for you. These phrases can also be useful in the hospital when speaking to administrative staff or nurses who are less fluent in English and are assessing you before the doctor. Although most doctors in Korea can understand and communicate in English fairly well, the rest of the hospital staff may not.

SAMPLE SENTENCES 머리가 아파요. [meo-ri-ga a-pa-yo.] = I have a headache. 다리를 다쳤어요. [da-ri-reul da-cheo-sseo-yo.] = I hurt my leg. 팔을 다쳤어요. [pa-reul da-cheo-sseo-yo.] = I hurt my arm.

BODY PARTS 배 [bae] stomach 머리 [meo-ri] head 눈 [nun] eye 코 [ko] nose 입 [ip] mouth 귀 [gwi] ear 발 [bal] foot 손 [son] hand

The Korean government restricts the distribution of prescription medication strictly to pharmacies. While nonprescription medicine is available at convenience stores or supermarkets, selection and supply are very limited.

This book extract from Survival Korean is available at MyKoreanStore.com

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July 2017

처방전 [cheo-bang-jeon]: Prescription Doctors typically prescribe medicine in sufficient amounts for short-term ailments, usually either three days’ or a week’s worth. In terms of chronic health problems which require regular visits, such as diabetes, as much as one month’s worth of medicine can be prescribed. If you believe you need a refill for a prescription, you will have to visit the doctor again for another consultation in order to receive another prescription.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

속이 안 좋아요. [so-gi an jo-a-yo.]: I feel nauseous; I feel bloated. (Refers to general discomfort.) 열이 나요. [yeo-ri na-yo.]: I have a fever. 기침이 나요. [gi-chi-mi na-yo.]: I have a cough. 감기에 걸린 것 같아요. [gam-gi-e geol-lin geot ga-ta-yo.]: I think I’ve caught a cold. 토했어요. [to-hae-sseo-yo.]: I threw up. 약 [yak]: medicine

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50 KOTESOL

“English Education in Korea Has Changed”

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David Shaffer

T

he Peace Corps and Fulbright – two U.S. agencies that we don’t often think about in the same neuron transmission – have pursued similar goals in relation to English education in Korea but at different times.

English education got off to a slow start in Korea after its prohibition during the Japanese colonial period and due to the ravages of the Korean War. Human resources were scarce, financial resources were scanty, and material resources were lacking. After reconstruction was well on its way and industrialization was taking hold, the U.S. Peace Corps was invited to Korea.

Two of its programs that proved to be popular were its middle school and university English programs.

Peace Corps volunteers (PCVs) were assigned to select schools throughout the republic, and for almost all the teachers and students that these “native speakers” came into contact with, it was their first time to interact with an L1 English speaker. Novel teaching methods and teacher training programs were also important transfers from the Peace Corps’ programs to Korean government English education initiatives.

One

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close-to-home

event

that

illustrates the impact that the Peace Corps had on forming English policies and practices in Korea had its beginnings at a Gwangju middle school in Sansu-dong. Chungjang Middle School was designated as a “research middle school,” and PCV Michelle Pierce was assigned to that school as Park Jin-chae’s co-teacher.

Together they worked on producing a listening test, something unheard of at the time. This short test of about five tape-recorded questions was piloted at the middle school and results were reported to the Jeollanam-do Office of Education (Gwangju was part of the province at the time).

The Office of Education decided to incorporate this listening test into the high school entrance exam provincewide. “The only problem with this,” recalls Park, “was that copies of copies of copies of the listening test were recorded on portable tape recorders, so the quality of some tape recordings was low.” To remedy this problem for the following year, Park employed the services of the Gwangju KBS radio broadcasting service to air the listening test questions throughout the province at test time to ensure the quality of the test at all testing centers.

The test was a success! Park went to Seoul in 1977 to report that success

to the Ministry of Education. The following year, the Ministry approved the recorded listening test method for use throughout the nation.

One by one, offices of education adopted the listening test, and it soon became used nationwide on the high school entrance exam that middle school students took. Not too long afterwards, this listening test model was also incorporated into the college entrance exam, much in the form that it takes today. Park, who went on to be an office of education supervisor, a high school principal, and a provincial UNESCO director, related (without any prompting), “Because of the Peace Corps, English education in Korea has changed.”

The Peace Corps closed its programs in Korea in 1981 as the nation became better able to meet its manpower needs in English education. The Peace Corps had not only contributed to English education but also to crosscultural understanding. “Peace Corps raised English-language education in Korea to a new level,” recalls former Gwangju PCV and present professor at the University of British Columbia, Dr. Donald Baker.

During the following decade of generalissimo government, outside

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51

assistance in the area of English education waned, but the government made several policy changes that had monumental effects on English education. Restrictions were lifted on operating English academies, private tutoring was legalized, the number of universities increased by one-third, and student enrollment at colleges and universities tripled! While presenting various opportunities for high school graduates, these also created huge strains on the education system and on society itself.

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From a pedagogical point of view, providing native-speaker models to the language learning classroom is a plus for various reasons in addition to the above: They demonstrate that English is a real communication tool and that methods other than the traditional ones may more effectively advance language learning. ETAs and PCVs have both served selflessly as change agents for English education in Korea.

KOTESOL: Teachers Helping Teachers

Date: July 8 (Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education - Tyson’s Top 8 Teaching Tips from the CELTA (Tyson Vieira, Kyungnam University) - Filling in the Gaps: Starters, Reviews and Closing Activities (Andrew Griffiths, Daejeon Education Training Institute) - SwapShop – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have.

For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL THE AUTHOR

David E. Shaffer is Vice-President of the GwangjuJeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL).

On behalf of the Chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University, where he has taught graduate and undergraduate courses. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions, including First Vice-President and Publications Committee Chair. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching. He is also editor-inchief of Gwangju News.

July 2017

Fulbright ETAs are recent college graduates, as were most Peace Corps Volunteers. ETAs live with a homestay family just as most PCVs lived with a Korean family. Participants in both programs have/had pre-service skills and second language training as well as cross-culture education to go through. In the words of Lindsay Herron, former ETA (2005-2008) and ETA program coordinator, as well as

Herron taught at a high school on Jeju Island as a “cultural ambassador” of the U.S. “It’s a heavy responsibility representing an entire populace,” she remarks. Many ETAs teach in middle and high schools, and the elementary school program is growing. ETA program and PC goals are essentially the same: to provide human resources to introduce teaching techniques and educational practices as well as crosscultural exchange and understanding.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

As it became obvious that Korea was moving away from former generals and towards former activists for presidents, the Fulbright Commission in Korea (aka the Korean-American Education Commission) saw it as a ripe time to establish an English program for Korea. Though Fulbright had been around for over six decades, it never had an English program that supplied American teachers to Korean classrooms until it established the English Teaching Assistant (ETA) Program in 1992. In many ways the Fulbright ETA Program continues where the Peace Corps/Korea program left off.

present KOTESOL president, “The ETAs serve as cultural ambassadors, bringing cross-cultural perspectives and cosmopolitan literacies to the classroom, striving to increase students’ comfort with foreigners as well as help them view English not just as an academic subject but as a means of communication.”

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OPINION

52 Op-Ed

Cyber Security and Citizens’ Rights

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

Written by Matt Furlane

T

his past May, the ransomware virus WannaCry made headlines by infecting over 200,000 computers in over 150 countries. Although not as large as the 2008 Conficker virus that spread to 200 countries, WannaCry has garnered more attention by extorting over 120,000 dollars from its victims, and by combining the elements of encryption and a worm virus into one package, allowing it to spread rapidly around the globe.

Despite efforts to defend against these types of attacks, WannaCry has reminded us of how vulnerable we have become in the digital age. Even though technology has helped to increase communication and information, and has boosted economies all over the world, it has also created security problems that disrupt our daily lives and invade our privacy. Increasingly, I believe there is no such thing as “cyber security” for us regular people.

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That baby monitor you placed in your newborn’s crib to keep him safe – it can be hacked. That phone call or text message you just sent can be “sniffed” out of the air and stolen. That great multi-mega-pixel camera on your phone can be turned on remotely to take pictures of you while you sleep, talk, or use the toilet. The microphone on your phone can be turned into a “bug” or listening device that eavesdrops on your conversations with family and loved ones. And according to reports from Wired Magazine and WikiLeaks, it’s even possible to hack your smart Samsung TV so that it’s collecting data about you. You watch the TV, and it’s watching YOU. Welcome to 1984.

In 1949, famed journalist and British novelist, George Orwell published one of the most famous dystopias about the future of civilization titled 1984, where the world is divided between three authoritarian regimes who wage

2017-07-05 �� 2:06:23

53 perpetual war and publish endless “fake news” in order to keep their citizens ignorant. One aspect of this new world order is the ability of the government to control all aspects of people’s lives, becoming a “Big Brother.” Always present.

Always watching. Always listening for “thought crime.”

In the beginning of Orwell’s story, we are introduced to the main character, Winston Smith, who lives in physical and mental misery. As he stands before his huge apartment telescreen (TV), he is not only subject to endless propaganda but actively monitored by the “Thought Police,” who serve the ruling party. The surveillance is non-stop. The state is omniscient. Like Russia under Stalin or North Korea today, the government actively seeks to control its citizens. In the 21st century, the technological power to do this is now real.

In the United States, we have some checks and balances to ensure that our government does not turn into “PeepingToms,” trying to look through everyone’s bedroom window, but these protections are sometimes flagrantly ignored. In 2013, former CIA and NSA employee, Edward Snowden, leaked huge amounts of data about U.S. government surveillance techniques and abilities that shocked the world. Cyber tools and programs that were initially thought to be created to prevent terrorism were actually being used to collect data on not only U.S. citizens but foreign leaders as well (like Angela Merkel and Shinzo Abe).

In several embarrassing reports published by Reuters in September of 2013, it was revealed that NSA employees used their positions to spy on friends and family members.

If that wasn’t bad enough, what we now know after the 2016 U.S. election is that intelligence agencies can turn the power of the surveillance state against anyone they wish to, for whatever reason, including political opponents.

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And in Korea there are positive signs as well. According to a June article in The Korea Times titled, “New Spy Chief Abolishes Domestic Spying,” NIS chief Suh Hoon has “immediately stopped all activities of officers gathering information on government ministries, organizations, and agencies, as well as media companies.”

These changes could mark a turning point in what is becoming a dangerous battle for privacy, human rights, and democracy around the world. The question we must ask is “must we surrender our privacy to government tyrants, digital thugs and cyber perverts in order to have national security?”

I believe the time has come for a new citizens’ initiative to begin petitioning all governments, including the new Korean government under president Moon, for greater resources and action to protect regular citizens from both foreign and domestic warrant-less surveillance programs (there must be a standard for real evidence of a crime, not just fake news or fake evidence). Protecting citizens’ rights will benefit both democracy and the economy, because there is no point in voting or promoting consumer technology if it cannot be properly secured from criminals and governments alike.

THE AUTHOR

Matt is an English teacher from the United States and he has a bachelor’s degree in political science and an associate’s degree in electronics engineering. He took up photography and journalism after he graduated and still relies heavily on a spell checker for words like “necessary” and “Mississippi.”

July 2017

In addition to all of these problems, WannaCry adds even more to our misery. Besides the abuses within the U.S. government, we also have to face the problem of rogue foreign governments or independent hacker groups (like Shadow-Brokers or Lazarus), many of whom have access to the same type of tools used by the NSA with even fewer restrictions.

“A federal appeals court on Tuesday revived a Wikipedia lawsuit that challenges a U.S. National Security Agency (NSA) program of mass online surveillance, and claims that the government unconstitutionally invades people’s privacy rights.… Lawyers for the Wikipedia publisher and eight other plaintiffs, including Amnesty International USA and Human Rights Watch, with more than 1 trillion international communications annually, argued that the surveillance violated their rights to privacy, free expression, and association.”

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Did you support Brexit? Do you support medical marijuana? Have you ever joined a protest movement?

Guess what, you’re in a U.S. government database somewhere. That phone call you had with a friend where you said “The President should die,” “That movie bombed,” “That girl is sexy” is now in a global database and can be accessed by anyone with the ability to hack or secure a Foreign Intelligence Surveillance Act (FISA) warrant.

But there might be hope. If you live in a democracy, ideally, your elected leaders and legal system will offer some form of protection from domestic surveillance or politically motivated attacks. According to a report in May by Reuters, the Fourth U.S. Circuit Court ruled 3–0 in favor of Wikipedia against the NSA, stating:

2017-07-05 �� 2:06:23

OPINION

54 Op-Ed

Homophobia and Change in Modern Korea

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

Written by Colt Compton

V

ery recently, a captain in the Korean army was convicted under an obscure law that makes homosexual conduct illegal in the armed services. In short order, there was a public outcry in the international community, with Amnesty International (a human rights organization headquartered in London) condemning the ruling. In the Korean community, however, response was muted, a reaction not uncommon in a country where hesitancy and outright belligerence towards the gay community can be seen not only in restrictive laws but in pulpits and public demonstrations around the

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country. It is easy for a westerner coming into this environment to throw blame at familiar bugaboos from back home such as religion and conservatism; however, both the blame and the counter for these old attitudes may not be as easy targets as might be readily assumed.

South Korea is a small country, one where Christianity is younger than in the United States and where over half the population identifies as having no formal religion (Wikipedia, Religion in South Korea). Radicalism of any kind is limited, and racism and homophobia can range from vocal to the far more

common subtlety of segregation and government restrictions. And yet, homophobia is an entrenched part of the culture, extending far beyond the influence of the churches and mosques. Additionally, in the West, these philosophies have historically been limited to areas far away from population cores – out in the country, where minorities have been segregated for generations. So why is it that you can walk down a street in Seoul, one of the most densely populated cities in the world, and find homophobia not only present but often the prevailing attitude?

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55 Perhaps even older and more ubiquitous than religion, misogyny in Korea is both deep-seated and far from subtle.

The New York Times, The Huffington Post, Aljazeera: search for “Korean misogyny,” and you will find articles from all of them. In a socialist country, this attitude becomes almost a state-sponsored institution, with the correct level of masculinity portrayed uniformly over all media. The Korean man of the dramas may be sensitive and understanding, but he would never cross the line from open with his emotions to outright femininity. Korea is a country where masculinity is not a spectrum, but a welldefined and narrow area, and anyone stepping outside of those bounds is not only strange but actually an enemy of the status quo. Is it any wonder that, in this environment, inclusivity has become a dirty word?

And yet, despite numerous restrictions and public spite, the gay community has continued to flourish in the big cities, albeit sequestered in their own neighborhoods.

Coupled with the rise of a new, liberal government, hope for change would seem forthcoming. Cultural change, however, seldom comes from the top down. In America, civil rights began at the bottom, from slave rebellions to marches on Washington, and private citizens taking up the yoke of public demonstration. In every social revolution in history, be it blacks in America, the Indians freeing themselves from British rule, or gays throughout the West, the first step has always been to remove the stigma: to show people that minorities are just the same as everyone else and deserve the same rights. A sweeping reform leveled by the government might expand gay rights, but federal enforcement of morality often leads to discontentment and can even harm the entities that it’s designed to protect. The responsibility, then, lies with the people.

July 2017

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Though public perception of masculinity may have shifted, it remains under the surface, a dirty little secret that younger generations keep to themselves. But also under the surface is the suffering of a culture that continues to be adrift, unaccounted for, and without a voice. Koreans pride themselves on being a communalist culture, where the suffering of the individual belongs to everybody. If Korea wants to live up to that ideal, then young people are going to have to start taking chances on letting their voices be heard. Change is not going to come in an altruistic display from the seat of government. It is going to take a grassroots movement right on the ground. It might require grandiose gestures like marches and demonstrations, but it will also require subtle ones: telling your friend that his off-color jokes are not that funny, sharing your opinions with people even though you are afraid that they might not agree with you, and sometimes, just being a good listener to the people who need you. Change will come when gays feel safe to come out of their neighborhoods, to go on the TV shows and tell their stories, to show people who they are and that they are not all that different, with the full support of their countrymen. The younger generation is going to have to step up.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

In Korea, the burgeoning gay culture, as in many other places, has run parallel with the rise of the youth culture, the new generation that is not so stuck to old ideas.

Amongst the young Koreans who have traveled abroad and grown up around foreigners, homophobia is now the exception rather than the rule. But vocal support for gays remains muted, and so the stigma remains. And why not?

Change can be a tall order in a country where stepping out of line can mean becoming a social outcast. But at the same time, Korea is a country that is defined by its revolutions as much as any other, and Koreans as a group are more familiar with the cost of repression than most. Discontent with the misogyny in the culture and repressed anger has led to the formation of groups like Megalia, a militant feminist organization that tends to make the headlines for all the wrong reasons. Generations of Koreans entering adulthood are now beginning to understand that letting repression stand has a cost all its own. As opinions shift more to the left and right and become radicalized, the center continues to grow smaller and smaller. Soon, those

Koreans who want to stick to the middle of the road will not have anything left to stand on.

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56

Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community?

Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce club activities and special events.

Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide the family and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2017

The days of KONA volunteering and the facilities are as follows: 1. KONA Storybook Center Every Saturday, 3–5 pm 2. Gwangju Children’s Home 1st, 2nd, and 4th Saturday, 3rd Sunday, 3–5 pm 3. Grandmother’s Community Children’s Center 4th Friday, 4–6 pm For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum.net/konavolunteers or our Facebook page of KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers, or contact Kim Young-Im 062-434-9887, or email konacenter@gmail.com

GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email gwangju_ soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook.

GWANGJU ART CLASS GIC, 2nd Floor, Room 3 12:30–3:00 pm, Saturdays Facebook: Gwangju Art Class Welcome art lovers and sketch enthusiasts from Gwangju and surrounding areas.

We are here to revive the art community in Gwangju and bring artists closer together through weekly drawing classes.

The classes are for anyone interested in developing their artistic skill, any age or level. Each class focuses on various exercises and art principles. We work with still life and nude model life drawing.

GWANGJU FILIPINO ENGLISH TEACHERS (GFET) Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10 am – 12 noon, GIC, Room 3 (2F) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular accent training and lectures to help fellow English teachers to become better educators.

GWANGJU ANIMAL SHELTER VOLUNTEERING Every Sunday. Meet at The First Alleyway at 12 for brunch and carpool to the shelter.

Walk dogs between 1–4 pm.

Please wear comfortable clothing.

See you there!

Facebook: Gwangju Animal Shelter Volunteering

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GIC ZUMBA WITH THANDO GIC Hall, 1st floor, GIC 7:00–8:00 pm, Thursdays Facebook: GIC Zumba with Thando Zumba is BACK at the GIC! It is a fun-filled cardio class that fits all levels, no experience needed.

Come get the body back for summer and have fun while you are at it.

Midweek fitness party.

Dress comfortably and be ready to sweat. Also, bring along water and a towel.

GWANGJU UKULELE CIRCLE Global Lounge Gallery, 1st floor, GIC 1:30–3:00 pm Every 2nd and 4th Sunday http://carleenkirksey.wixsite.com/ gwangjuukecircle Gwangju Ukulele Circle is an open group playing ukulele songs together.

It’s a great way to make sure you keep practicing and learning new chords and songs. A chord chart and music is available on the website under “song sheets,” so you can practice and become accustomed to the songs we’ll play that week and the chords we’ll use. All levels are welcome! Bring your ukulele to the GIC for the next circle!

TUESDAY NIGHT YOGA GIC Hall, 1st Floor 7:00–8:00 pm, Tuesdays Facebook: Gwangju Yoga with Emily This is a weekly class appropriate for all levels. Beginners and advanced practitioners alike are encouraged to join.

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Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes.

We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee

former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

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