HJ MARCH 2019 by Hairdressers Journal

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

Advice for your Junior Self

£5|March 2019|hji.co.uk

BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK

CONTENTS

March 2019 News

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

HJ Reports: Redken The trends from the Symposium in Las Vegas

HJ Reports: Joico HJ discovers the brand’s new launch in Berlin

Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels

Inside Scoop Sally Brooks on her new industry documentary

Business

The Brexit Question A 5-step plan for moving beyond Brexit

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Expand your Business Follow these steps to grow from a single salon to a chain

Return of the Ex Should you consider taking back a former employee?

Features

Advice to your Junior Self Members of the hair industry share what they wish they’d known when they were 16

The Brush Heroes Meet the multi-purpose brushes you should be carrying around in your kitbag

In the Red Discover how to tap into the redhead market in your salon from the products to stock to the services you deliver

GREAT LENGTHS

Business Panel This month’s topic is the decline in footfall on the UK high street

Inspiration

Regulars

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The Hot List This month’s launches

Life Through a Lens Akin Konizi’s iconic collection images

Brat Pack An exclusive fashion collection to coincide with Sally’s new industry film

Fashion Three exclusive collections

Get the Look Create a soft pink-hued effect 4 / hji.co.uk

Interiors Glitch salon in Bristol Careers A colour director shares his journey

EDITOR’S LETTER

HE PAUL MITC

51 Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

Managing Director Mark Moloney

GLITCH

Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

We l c o m e

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377

he HJ logo has been given a makeover this month. We’ve also made some small tweaks to the design of this issue and our website as part of a company-wide rebrand, which is making its debut at HJ Live London. The rebrand is to remind our loyal readers that HJ is proud to be at the heart of the professional hairdressing industry. The Professional Beauty Group has a portfolio of leading hair and beauty titles, events and awards. HJ hosts HJ Live London, HJ Live North and HJ Live Ireland, not forgetting the UK’s leading professional hairdressing exhibition – Salon International. We also bring you the annual British Hairdressing Business Awards and the iconic British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Our sister title Professional Beauty is the force behind Professional Beauty London and the Professional Beauty Awards, and it covers not only the beauty industry but the spa and wellness sector as well. To celebrate our rebrand we’re launching a membership scheme where you can benefit from our relationships within the professional hair and beauty sector to receive exclusive discounts, offers and VIP perks at our leading shows. Go to page 30 to find out more. We hope you like our fresh new look and we look forward to seeing you at HJ Live London!

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Event Manager Sharon Webb sharon@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062

On the cover: Hair: Caroline Schmitt Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Mekel Bailey Photography: Kevin Luchmun 5 / hji.co.uk

Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536

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NEWS

INDUSTRY NEWS Sexy Hair’s Debut Conference Sexy Hair hosted its first UK conference last month featuring guest speakers and a catwalk show by the Sexy Hair creative team. International stylist Gianni Scumaci shared his career journey from working with Sassoon to styling horse manes for editorial fashion shoots and becoming the go-to stylist for photographer David Bailey. Errol Douglas created a series of looks to bring the Sexy Hair brand to life and the Sexy Hair creative team presented their skills on stage with a variety of hair looks. The brand announced its new photographic competition, which gives one lucky winner the chance to have a collection photographed by Barry Jeffrey. The brand is also launching the Sexy Hair Advocate Programme, where a salon representative will be nominated to attend industry events to inspire and motivate them.

Fudge Names New Global Ambassador Fudge Professional has named Jonathan Andrew as its new global ambassador. He has styled shoots for Vogue, worked with Rankin and styled multiple music video campaigns. Emma Bate senior brand manager at Fudge Professional said: “We’re beyond excited to be working with Jonathan – his creativity and charisma are unparalleled within the industry’s younger generation of hairdressers and represent everything Fudge stands for. He has amassed a huge amount of experience in his career so far and we’re incredibly

excited to use his knowhow and credibility across the brand from product innovation to campaign direction and education.” Jonathan added: “It is such a fun and exciting brand with a truly creative and passionate team and one that I’m so excited to be joining. This is a huge achievement for me in my career and I’m overwhelmed by the commitment and support that Fudge have shown me. The brand has so many values close to my heart and I can’t wait to start working on the new campaigns, products and education developments!”

The New Colour Masters Headmasters has two new members on its colour ambassador team – Gareth Williams as the creative ambassador and colour lead and Alfie Pfeffer as the new creative colour ambassador. The brand has also revealed that creative director Andrew Barton will be the new franchise owner of the Headmasters flagship salon in Mayfair. Andrew is delighted with the two new appointments. He said: “We care passionately about the development of our teams with education at the heart of all we do. I’m thrilled Gareth and Alfie will be at the forefront of colour creating techniques and driving our reputation as the go-to hair colour experts.” On his role as franchise salon owner he said: “This will be the perfect synergy between my position in the business and leading the flagship salon.”

Women’s Pregnancy Rights T

he Government has announced plans to give women in the workplace more protection from redundancy after maternity leave. The additional protection would continue for up to six months after they return to work. Hilary Hall, NHF chief executive said: “We know many hair and beauty salons are struggling to recruit qualified and experienced staff. Most will welcome employees returning from maternity leave with open arms and will do everything they can to keep new mothers on the team. It’s more of a struggle for self-employed stylists or therapists who often return to work early due to financial pressures.” According to research by the Department for Business,

Energy and Industrial Strategy, 54,000 women each year lose their job due to pregnancy or maternity leave. The research suggested that one in nine women have been fired or made redundant after returning to work following childbirth or they were treated so badly they felt forced out of their job. Under UK law, women are entitled to up to 52 weeks of maternity leave, 39 weeks of which are paid. Self-employed women, however, don’t receive statutory maternity pay. Self-employed women can claim a maternity allowance of up to £145.18, but research has shown the average self-employed mother takes 23 weeks off work as maternity leave, instead of the full 39 weeks.

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NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates Award-Winning Celebrity Styles The SAG awards, BAFTAs and Grammy’s provided beautiful hair inspiration to share with your clients

YAT 2018’s Final Shoot Schwarzkopf Professional’s Young Artistic Team (YAT) 2018 ended their year of being mentored by Schwarzkopf Professional’s ambassadors by producing a collection with Gary Hooker and Michael Young. Gary directed the shoot, while Michael captured the team’s images on camera. The brief for the shoot was ‘District 6’. Michael said: “The vibe for this shoot was very eclectic cool. Each model represented a girl from a different district meaning they were all individual and had their own style. We shot the models both inside and outside on location to reflect

REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

An Uber App for Hair The new Hairstee app is described as an Uber for hair because it allows clients to use geo-tagging to monitor available hair professionals in the local area in real-time. Plus, hair professionals can reduce or increase the price of their haircuts based on demand to make their target and manage their time efficiently. The app is the brainchild of Yemi Busari. He said: “Freelancers and professionals can sign up so you can try it if you have a space to fill in the salon or you are seeking further freelance work.” He added that all professionals using the app have been vetted beforehand. Keith Conniford, Registrar and CEO of the Hair and Barber Council believes it’s essential to ensure standards remain the same regardless of whether a client has booked through an app or directly with a salon. He told HJ exclusively: “The professionalism of everything we do comes back to giving the customer the highest level of service and skill, no matter in what type of environment.”

the theme of the shoot.” Chloe Hunter from Daniel Granger Hairdressing said: “Thank you to Schwarzkopf Professional for giving us this amazing opportunity and the chance to work with Gary and Michael. I can’t wait to use the techniques I have learnt throughout the year and put them into practice. It has been an incredible experience being part of the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team 2018.” The collection will be featured exclusively in HJ ’s April issue so watch this space.

The Messinger Returns

tylist Brandon Messinger has returned to HOB Salons as style director in the Camden Town salon. Brandon previously worked for HOB Salons in 2014 as a senior stylist. Since then he has worked hard to establish himself as an industry name, winning silver at the 2018 Wella TrendVision awards. In the same year he achieved finalist status for the FAME team and was named Eastern Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Brandon said: “Akin Konizi is my hero. I’m looking forward to reconnecting with everyone and growing as an artist and a person.”

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The Duchess of Cambridge’s loose chignon “This soft chignon shows off her bone structure, neckline and earrings.” Sharon Malcolm, salon owner, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing

Dua Lipa’s glass hair bob “A jawline bob looks fantastic when worn super straight like Dua Lipa’s. The high shine finish nails the glass hair trend!” Karen Thomson, salon owner KAM Hair and Body Spa

Lucy Boynton’s half-up with bow “The undone texture looks effortless and natural and the black ribbon gives it a luxe finish.” Philip Bell, artistic director, Ishoka Hair and Beauty

NEWS

Leading Ladies

To celebrate International Women’s Day on 8 March, female members of the industry discuss the women who have inspired them…

“Vivienne Westwood has inspired me in my work with her rule breaking attitude to fashion and society. She is an amazing leader in the design world and still rocks a platform heel even though she is in her 80s!” Gill Berry, Joico European design team leader

“Fashion designer Mary Quant was an influencer of her time. She was instrumental to the emancipation of women having her hair cut into a bob by Sassoon. She knew how to make a statement.” Paola Fattorusso-Pinto, education director, Rush Hair

“Irena Sendler was a social worker and nurse who served during World War II. Irena risked her own life to save thousands of Jews. She was aware of the consequences but chose to put others first.” Krysia Eddery, owner, Perfectly Posh Hair Design

“Karren Brady is a business woman, TV personality and sporting executive to name just a few of her roles. She learned how to succeed in a male industry and how to do this in a stylish and dignified way.” Michelle Griffin, owner and CEO, Loxbox

Marc Antoni Group’s New Partnership with Joico

A Saks Celebration S

aks UK recognised its team’s greatest achievements over the past 12 months at the Saks Gathering Awards, which took place at the Hilton Metropole last month. Over 500 employees from the salon chain attended the event with Saks creative director Luke Pluckrose and the Saks art team kicking off proceedings with the impressive XXL Big Hair show. Saks managing director Stephen Kee said: “This year’s Gathering was pretty special. Our mantra is always work hard and play hard and this event is the perfect example of that. We’re like one big family at Saks and we love celebrating the successes of our salon owners and their teams.” Saks Hair and Beauty Salon of the Year was awarded to Saks Sedbury Hall and there were two winners for Hair Salon of the Year – Saks Doncaster and Saks Northallerton. The Avant Garde Image Award was given to Rebecca Calladine, Claire Paton received the Men’s Image Award and Zoe Chamberlain was awarded the Stylist Image of the Year. Three stylists received the Stylist Achievement Award – Amy Pengilley, Dani Flavell and Mary Yeomans.

Joico has teamed up with the Marc Antoni salon group with Bruno Marc as the newly appointed Joico ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland. Marcus Giamattei, Altin Ismaili, Daniel Bryan and Dan Spiller are the brand’s new colour ambassadors for Europe, the UK and Ireland. Bruno said: “We felt Joico was the perfect company to help Marc Antoni move forward and develop our team, while maintaining the quality we offer in our salons with their exciting and innovational products.” Joico EMEA general manager for the beauty

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care professional division Eric Kater is excited about the collaboration. He said: “We are delighted to welcome the Marc Antoni Group and we are looking forward to working closely with the Marc Antoni artistic team on many creative and educational programmes.” The group has a rich heritage rooted in family and the company is known for its creativity and business-minded approach. The Marc Antoni artistic team won the Artistic Team of the Year award at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, in 2018.

SPONSORED BRANDS

JOIN MHD’S PLAYLIST SALON PILOT SCHEME laylist gives salon owners P the power to use MHD’s 500+ tutorials to create personalised

ADVANCED PRO SALON’S HAIR HEALTH PHILOSOPHY

air health forms the core foundation of every product within the Advanced Pro Salon range. Scientifically developed by leading experts, the products ensure hair is in peak condition during the colouring process to combat damage caused by styling and environmental pollutants. ProPlex Technology is infused directly into pre-lightener powder formulas as an essential ingredient to protect hair from within and deliver results straight from the pouch. Advanced Pro Salon Pre-lighteners and Peroxide Crème Developers are enriched with argan oil, delivering essential nourishment throughout

the developing process. This ethos is carried through to the ColourCode range of 117 dual colour professional shades which are infused with ProPlex and enriched with argan oil. Every ColourCode shade is infused with ProPlex Technology and enriched with argan oil, antioxidants, vitamins C, E and pro-vitamin B5, resulting in richer and deeper shades. The Advanced Pro Salon range extends to post-colour care with shampoos, conditioners, treatments and styling products for vibrant and luxuriously healthy hair. For more information go to advancedprosalon.co.uk.

learning for the whole team. MHD works with leading salons to fill skill gaps, expand services and boost revenue. “Playlist is making waves across the industry and I’m delighted it’s having such a positive impact for our members,” says Mark Butcher, MHD’s managing director. “Salon owners are using it during performance reviews, to induct new recruits and test new team members. It’s motivating staff and boosting salon profits.” There are limited spaces available at a bulk discount for MHD's pilot scheme for salons. Contact Mark Butcher directly on 0330 088 5660 or visit MyHairDressers.com.

ANGEL EN PROVENCE FOR SPRING

NEW PROFESSIONAL HAIR SUPPLIER AT HJ LIVE LONDON

new range of professional A hair salon products will be introduced at HJ Live London on 24

he Angel En Provence range is packed with natural goodness and brimming with pure, strengthening and restorative ingredients to help kickstart your clients’ hair regime for the new season. The products are described as ‘heaven in a bottle’ and there is a product to suit every hair type. For a client with dry and damaged hair, you could suggest the Helichrysum range, which contains helichrysum essence

and vitamins A and E to moisturise locks and repair the damaged areas of the hair shaft. The oily hair range contains verbena extract, citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract and rose extract to gently cleanse oily hair without irritation. The brand conducts research to ensure its products contain the best possible ingredients. Angel En Provence is made from a blend of essential oils, plant extracts and technology so your clients can benefit from a noticeable difference to the look and feel of their hair. For more information about Angel En Provence go to mnrventures. co.uk/angelenprovence or email info@mnrventures.co.uk. 11 / hji.co.uk

and 25 February at ExCeL London. Building on seven decades of success in the Middle East, the MSCC Group has extended its operations to the UK. In 2018 it established MS International Investment Ltd. (MSII) to offer quality professional products to the UK market. MSII is a family business which is reflected in its approach to both customers and stakeholders. Being receptive to new ideas and open to clients’ needs, the company aims to source and manufacture the best products. Register for free tickets to attend HJ Live London 2019 at hjlive.co.uk/freetickets.

HJ REPORTS

REDKEN READY The bi-annual Redken Symposium brought together thousands of Redken salons, educators and hairdressers from around the world

he three-day Redken Symposium 2019 was held in Las Vegas at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. The event was filled with creative shows, business seminars and talks from high profile names. Here are the key trends and mantras to consider for 2019… “Learn better, earn better, live best” Sheri Doss, Redken vice president education worldwide, welcomed the global audience during the grand opening show. Highlighting Redken’s 5th Avenue, New York roots, the show was separated into sections with different New York women and their alter egos. Standout hair looks included colourful Gatsby-inspired bobs at a 1920s speakeasy bar, dreadlocks at a punk fire show and urban-inspired styles at a rap battle that incorporated Redken’s mantra – ‘learn better, earn better, live best’.

“Use catwalk colour trends to start conversations in the salon” Josh Wood, Redken global colour creative director, talked in-depth about the stunning Marc Jacobs SS19 show which saw him colour the hair of 37 models. He matched the hues perfectly to each of their outfits. Josh was keen to stress that attendees could translate catwalk trends to the salon environment. “Hair colour trends from the catwalk start discussions in the salon,” he explained. “It opens the door to being able to have a conversation with your bread and butter clients. It moves colour 12 / hji.co.uk

from an afterthought and gives it more of a fashion-forward focus. We can sell clients a colour they may not have considered before.” “Whisper, talk and shout – know your colour categories” In the New Do: New Hue seminar, colour transformation was brought to life in an accessible way. Redken artists Celene Dupuis, Sarah Bramham and Enrico Compierchio, identified and demonstrated the three types of colour client – foundational, luxury lifestyle and creative colour. The trio explained the colour that

HJ REPORTS HJ MEETS COLOURIST TRACEY CUNNINGHAM Khloe Kardashian’s go-to colourist shares her favourite looks and who she’d love to work with... Is there a celebrity’s hair you’d love to work with? Donald Trump. His hair is such a weird colour and so many people talk about it. When did you decide to become a hairdresser? I always wanted to be a hairdresser. To be honest I thought hairdressers could make up their own schedule but my life is the complete opposite of that. I never dreamed of my career turning out like it has. What’s your favourite Khloe Kardashian look? I love Khloe Kardashian’s platinum look – I don’t think she would ever go back to brown now. What challenges do you face when colouring celebrity hair? I’m so busy that I’m not able to accommodate everyone, which is hard. I still have regular clients and I feel bad if I can’t fit them in.

would suit each of the clients and how they would fall into ‘whisper, talk and shout’ categories respectively. Attendees were shown six women who had been given a makeover by the Redken artists and they displayed how colour can be transformational. “Not everything is about Instagram, it’s about word of mouth recommendations too.” Colourist Tracey Cunningham provided the audience with some memorable quotes as she demonstrated balayage on stage. She said: “Hair colourists are fighting red, not crime.” As well as keeping the audience entertained with her wisdom she told attendees to treat their clients like VIPs. “Why not give them a couple of face-framing highlights for free. Not everything is about Instagram – it’s about word of mouth recommendations too.”

“Focus on what the camera sees to avoid overwhelming yourself” The premise of the Hot off the Press seminar was to show that producing gorgeous editorial images is achievable and functional. Redken artists, Philip Barwick, Lindsey Olson and Jorge Joao, showed that images can and should be used for salon marketing and social media content. The team brought their editorial images to life on stage with models and explained that although hairdressers are normally focused on styling for their clients in a 3D world, marketing images and hair competition images are 2D. This means you only need to work on what will be seen by the camera and the team showed the back of the model’s head, which was covered in bobby pins. The team also gave a genius tip – instead of applying hairspray on top of the hair, apply from underneath to reduce flash. 13 / hji.co.uk

How has Instagram changed the colour industry? Clients are more trend-smart. Instagram is a tricky one – people use filters and they buy followers. At the beginning of my career I didn’t have Instagram. My career was built on word-of-mouth recommendations. I was talked into going on Instagram but now I love it.

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5TH - 7TH OCTOBER 2019 PRESENTED BY

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THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING

THE DATE

HJ REPORTS

DAMAGE CONTROL

WITH JOICO HJ spent the weekend in Berlin to discover Joico’s exciting new Defy Damage range

oico hopes to shake up the industry with its latest innovation – Defy Damage. HJ was invited to the German capital to learn more about the range. The slogan for the new campaign is ‘See it. Feel it. Believe it’ and this was a recurring theme across the weekend. The event began with a decadent dinner hosted by Joico’s EMEA general manager Eric Kater. The following day, HJ was invited to Max Höhn’s salon for the unveiling of the new range. Max is the hairstylist to the German celebrity circuit as well as a Joico Europe brand ambassador. Max was chosen to present the new range as his celebrity and influencer clientele are constantly changing their hair, which means he is an

expert at reviving locks that have been subject to damage. Gaby Abel, Joico Europe’s director of marketing, explained the range consists of a salon-only two-step programme and a routine for clients to follow at home. The ethos of Defy Damage is that prevention is better than cure. Therefore the product works to protect hair from heat styling, chemicals and the effects of pollution. A VR experience Each attendee was transported from the salon in Berlin to Joico brand ambassador Larisa Love’s Los Angeles salon thanks to a pair of high-tech VR goggles. The attendees watched how the products can transform a client’s hair and Joico’s international 16 / hji.co.uk

guest artistic director, Richard Mannah, explained each step of the process. The VR experience included travelling to a rainforest, desert and the depths of a dark forest to demonstrate how the different weather conditions can affect the hair. It finished back at Larisa’s salon with her client showing off her fabulously glossy mane. Finally, Richard applied hair colour and the entire new range on two models to showcase the healthy and glossy results the Defy Damage range promises to deliver. Understanding the technology Pro Series 1 protects the bonds and enhances lift if you are providing a colour service. Pro Series 2 strengthens the hair and helps to

HJ REPORTS

“Since we’ve started using the range in the salon the feedback has been phenomenal!” Richard Mannah maintain over 90% colour vibrancy. Pro Series 1 and 2 are exclusively for salon use. The range also includes a shampoo, conditioner, mask and thermal shield that clients can purchase to continue their Joico hair journey at home. The range features new technology that Joico has coined ‘Smart Release.’ It contains a hard-working trio of keratin quadramine complex,

arginine and rosehip oil which sit together in a liposome – a small molecular ball with a water-based centre. A clever water-repellent outer layer keeps the ingredients inside to ensure they stay intact until needed. Richard revealed that he got his hands on the range at a secret launch in Los Angeles last June. “Since we’ve started using the range in the salon the feedback has been phenomenal,” he told attendees during the press briefing in the salon. He was sceptical at first: “I questioned Joico about the claims because they seemed too good to be true,” he revealed. “However I was told the brand stands behind all of its claims. In fact, I was told the claims are very conservative compared to what this product can deliver.” 17 / hji.co.uk

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

LET’S GET DIGITAL

Let’s Get Online e took this regular page from print to online in January to help you get the W most out of your online presence and grow your reach and engagement on social media. Our ‘Let’s Get Digital’ fortnight featured a range of inspirational and educational articles from ‘5 Apps Every Hairdresser Needs on Their Phone,’ to the ‘Essential Tips for Running a Salon Social Media Account’. You can read them all at hji.co.uk/digital.

The Importance of Patch Testing SHUTTERSTOCK

Our most read article on site last month was ‘This is Why Patch Testing is So Important’. Thousands of you got clued up on why patch testing is necessary to avoid a lawsuit. If you want to be informed go to hji.co.uk/legal/patchtesting-important.

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Hairdressers Journal

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Social Shout Out

@jonnyloveshair

Living Coral SMO ambassador Heffy Wheeler has created a great tutorial for us on the O Pantone Colour of the Year – Living Coral. The two-minute video gives you all the information you need to create the pretty colour that your clients will

I love Jonathan’s mix of real life and inspiration. The styling on his Instagram grid is always effortlessly cool. Akesha, digital editor

love. Search ‘Living Coral Hair’ on YouTube to watch it.

@johngillespiehair John’s feed combines stunningly timeless looks he creates in the salon with the on-trend styles he can put together at the drop of a hat for the catwalk. Laura, HJ editor

#BHA19

@offcutbarberslondon

It’s hard to believe HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards 2019, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, is already upon us! Entries for this year’s awards open this month. For everything you need to know, including key dates and FAQs, head to the events section of our website. 19 / hji.co.uk

My local barbershop’s grid features on-point cuts and beautiful beards – and pics of their cocker spaniel too. Charlotte, HJ Men editor

BUSINESS

5 Ways to Prepare for Brexit in Your Salon Salon consultant Ryan Fox shares his five tips for weathering the storm and moving your business forwards regardless of the outcome on Friday 29 March

The Brexit issue has knocked consumer confidence which is having an effect on client spending. What they seek from you is reassurance that you are still their hair expert and they are in safe hands. Double your efforts to create the right look, give great advice and provide your clients with a consistently excellent service. Your clients might have tightened their budgets but they will still be prepared to pay for a professional cut and colour if they love your in-salon experience and the end result.

to make key 2 Continue business decisions

Brexit has also affected business confidence so investment decisions are being put on hold, which is understandable. However, indecision stops a business from moving forward so strip things back to basics and focus on the fundamentals. Ask yourself in a worst-case scenario, what do you

need to keep on trading? Don’t cut back on the essentials that you need to deliver your service and keep making day-to-day decisions to keep your salon running, otherwise you won’t run at all.

3 Keep a stock take

Stock should be high on your essential business decisions list. If you don’t have the right colours and products in stock, you can’t deliver the level of service that your clients expect. Do a formal stock take and order double what you normally stock in case some items are held up at customs in April.

4 Take back control

You can’t control everything so try not to get bogged down in the frustrations of the uncertainty and focus on the positive actions you can make such as continuing to make your clients look and feel great. Many stylists don’t talk enough about hair to clients so it’s a great time to take control of the 20 / hji.co.uk

conversation and keep topics about hair as opposed to Brexit!

a dedicated 5 Maintain and focused team

Plan for the worst and work to your best. Calculate your stripped back financial breakeven point so you have a plan B survival position should you need it. This will give you a comfort factor which will help to boost confidence. Set your teams goals in one-to-ones and hold a goal-setting team meeting. You might be surprised about what you can achieve this year with a focused and dedicated team.

Ryan Fox is a salon consultant who provides accountancy services to salons. For more information on Ryan’s salon accounts service please visit umbrellaconsulting.co.uk.

SHUTTERSTOCK

1 Reassure your loyal clients

BUSINESS

Are you Ready to Expand your Salon Business? The co-director of Spirit Hair Co Mikaela Martin shares her advice on growing from one salon to two while keeping your brand’s values

everything runs like clockwork. We invest in regular training for our managers and front of house teams to ensure they have all the skills and up-to-date knowledge they need.

Measuring performance Staff performance across all three salons is monitored via one-to-one meetings, covering how time has been used, performance levels, client footfall and retention, and retail sales. We also use these meetings to offer advice and support if a team member needs help to grow in a certain area.

Developing skills Ongoing training for all of your team members is also essential for consistency across your new group. Each quarter we close the salons to carry out customer training. We tailor each session to ‘the now’. We look at how people are spending their money, understanding clients’ needs, the importance of a consultation, retail and overcoming online competition, and generally how we can make Spirit Hair Co stand out from the crowd and become the go-to salon brand.

Look before you leap

he Spirit Hair Co has three successful salons – two in Buckinghamshire and one in Oxfordshire. Mikaela Martin helps you discover how to overcome the challenges and enjoy the rewards of growing your business this year.

The key questions Once you’ve decided to open a new salon, you need to make sure the location will provide a strong foundation for growth. The questions we asked ourselves when we decided to open another salon included: • Is our brand presence strong enough to open a second salon? • Is our salon trading at capacity? • Have we got a strong team? • Do we have all our policies in place? • Have we got the necessary funds? • Do we have a solid marketing plan?

Creating consistency Ensuring your brand ethos is clear to everyone employed at the company is essential. We decided to develop a company handbook outlining all of our company’s brand values and the standards expected from all team members. I’d recommend updating the book every six months. Keeping everyone informed is also vital as a brand grows. We have

WhatsApp groups set up for each salon with day-to-day updates, which can include details of training days, new products, new team members starting and any absence through sickness. This is a great way of ensuring everyone is aware of what is going on and ensuring the smooth running of our salons. We have a team social Facebook page which we use for highlighting any group events, such as charity days. This page also allows team members to share ideas they’ve seen elsewhere on social media.

People power Having key team members in place across your new group is a must. We have an office manager, Samantha, who makes everything happen. She collates all of the performance figures for our one-to-one meetings with team members. She issues health and safety updates and pays all our bills, while looking into ways the group can save money on all those background costs like utilities and business rates. We also have assistant managers who look after the wellbeing of the team, oversee our brand values and standards and provide updates on any issues. They each work closely with their front of house teams to ensure 22 / hji.co.uk

My final piece of advice if you are looking to expand from one salon to two or more would be to consider whether you have used all the time and space in your existing salon. Could you create more styling stations or extend your opening hours, rather than opening a second salon and doubling your overheads?

Mikaela’s tips for growing your single salon into a chain • Make sure your existing salon is trading at full capacity before making the jump to two. • Ensure you have strong managers in place at each establishment. • Monitor your team member’s performance and offer regular support. • Invest in ongoing training to motivate and develop your team and delight your clients. • Have your brand values and standards clearly outlined and updated in a company handbook. • Employ someone to look after the background work so you can focus on developing your team. • Encourage interaction between salon teams through social media and training days.

Seek natural growth, harvest calm. Zen Series.

BUSINESS PANEL

How is the reduced footfall on the UK high street affecting your business? This year’s winners of HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards discuss the steps they are taking to combat the downturn of the high street in their local area

Name: Carla Rinaldi Salon: Not Another Salon Award: Manager of the Year “Our clients use social platforms, which means we don’t rely on walk-ins. We attract our clientele from social media and we’ve found it to be the golden business tool for this era. Skin testing means walk-ins for colour are not possible so we should see this change as a positive. If we use Instagram as our ‘shop window’ we will avoid having to turn people away at the door.”

Carla’s steps to success: ∞ We ensure all social platforms

send out a strong message about who we are as a company. We’ve also launched a media brand to help other salons with social marketing. ∞ I provide constant coaching to motivate my team and ensure they are producing content for our social accounts. In fact, contributing to our social media channels is now written into our team’s contracts. ∞ We also have regular meetings about the importance of social marketing in the salon.

Name: Ian Hendry Salon: Maxwells Professional Hairdressing Award: Salon Team of the Year

Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year

“Our salon has been hidden away down a small side street from the main market square in Biggleswade for over 28 years but we continue to grow every year. My advice is to forget what’s happening on the high street and concentrate on what’s happening in your salon. If you and your team are focused on delivering high standards and your clients love what you do they will return to you.”

“The drop in footfall and high parking costs has had an impact on client visits. We are focusing on developing our team’s communication skills. We want to find out what each individual client wants and needs and we are tailor-making services for them. We are also looking at our opening hours to see what’s more convenient to them, such as later nights when parking charges don’t apply or when child care is easier.”

Ian’s steps to success: ∞ Train your team on client retention

and rebooking. Make it one of their key performance indicators and offer rewards for high performers. ∞ Use marketing to persuade existing clients to spend more, visit more and recommend more. ∞ We spent £4,000 on a high-quality mail drop to expensive postcodes in our area. This means cash-rich potential clients can browse through our services as opposed to swiping past us on a 24-hour Instagram story.

25 / hji.co.uk

Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ Identify all individual needs and

create affordable packages to meet your client’s wishes. ∞ Focus on your team’s personal relationship building skills to help with client retention and re-bookings. ∞ Employ a personal customer relationship manager whose sole responsibility is to contact clients after each visit to ensure the result met all expectations.

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1

Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year

Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2

“Our clients research our brand online so our digital presence acts like our shop window. We’ve invested heavily in our online strategy, which is focused on client engagement. We’ve noticed clients combine hair visits with catch-ups with friends and family so they come to the high street for a service experience rather than retail therapy.”

“We’ve seen a drop in walk-in trade thanks to a depressing high street and expensive parking, which is also reflected in our retail sales. We’ve focused on rebooking all of our clients before they leave with a £10 off incentive. We’ve also increased retail recommendations by stressing our credentials as hair experts. We offer quarterly promotions to outclass the online shopping competition too.”

“Our salon was badly affected by the Novichok attacks in Salisbury in 2018. There was a strong feeling of uneasiness with the town feeling quieter than usual. It is starting to pick up slowly but footfall is still low.”

Natalie’s steps to success: ∞ We make our social media specific

to what we do and who we are and also to show off our locations. ∞ Clients come to the salon for an experience that allows them to escape from their hectic lives. ∞ We build elements into our service that will remind clients of us when they get home such as home-advice guidelines and professional products.

Name: Mila Timberlake and Natalia Irvine Salon: Rainbow Room International, Uddingston Award: Front of House Team of the Year “Luckily for our industry, clients can’t get their hair cut online. Due to the nature of our business and our location, lower footfall hasn’t had a major impact. We are aware of the move towards e-commerce and we’re working towards raising our online profile to promote our business and attract new clients.”

Mila and Natalia’s steps to success: ∞ We take part in awards and events

to raise our salon’s profile. ∞ We continuously increase our presence on social media using Instagram to exhibit our work and inspire more visits. ∞ We have a ‘Share the Secret’ referral programme to spread our good work through word of mouth.

Phil’s steps to success: ∞ We advised the council to stop all

glossy magazine as it’s essential to get the word out to your target market. ∞ We give existing clients 50% off their next appointment when they recommend a friend. ∞ Our loyalty scheme means a client who pays £2,000 receives 20% off all services and products for a year.

parking fees, which has helped to increase footfall. ∞ We’re working on a proposal to lower business rates to support small local businesses rather than suffer from low footfall caused by fear. ∞ Each week a team member or client nominates someone who’s given them great service and we reward them with a salon visit. Thinking of our business outside of the salon reminds the team to build local awareness.

Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year

Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year

“Our guests still enjoy affordable luxuries. They want to feel pampered in a luxurious setting and well educated on how to care for their hair. Low maintenance colour, such as balayage, is popular so we spend time educating clients on how to keep their hair looking fabulous between visits with toners and colour boosting services.”

“Drastic Government and council action is needed for the high street to recover. We are not on the high street so we have free on-street parking and we own the properties so we are not at the mercy of landlords. Our locations have houses nearby, which gives us a regular clientele. The money saved on leases is re-invested into our salons and staff, which pays huge dividends in client satisfaction, staff loyalty and repeat business.”

Salv’s steps to success: ∞ We advertise the salon in the local

Christian’s steps to success: ∞ We have an online and offline

colour education campaign for clients, which increases retail sales. ∞ We attract new guests in the salon with our bespoke digital and localised marketing campaigns. ∞ We focus on educating and developing our team to the highest level to remain leaders in our field.

26 / hji.co.uk

Janet’s steps to success: ∞ We make sure the salon looks

immaculate inside and out. ∞ We offer our clients excellent refreshments, luxury magazines and realistic service pricing. ∞ We provide excellent trained staff who put the client first and feel part of our salon’s success story.

BUSINESS

• If the applicant’s CV has more salon names than the phonebook. • If the team will resent the ex-employee returning. • If there’s no evidence of growth since they left your salon the first time.

Return of the Ex Should you consider employing an ex-member of staff? Karen Bell co-founder of Vincent Bell Hairdressing considers the pros and cons for you and your salon team

s an employer, when someone leaves, it can hit you hard. In an industry that is people-focused it’s easy to take it personally. You can’t keep an employee forever and at some point they will want to try something new. If they realise the grass isn’t always greener, should you ever take them back?

The pros and cons There are a number of pros and cons to re-employment, and in some situations, it might not work but in today’s increasingly difficult recruitment climate we shouldn’t automatically dismiss it. In fact as a business, this is a decision we’ve recently considered. With any previous employee you know their flaws but you also know their assets. You know what makes them tick, what motivates them and hopefully you should have learned how to guide them to get the most from them. Unless there was a crime such as fraud or theft committed, I would argue that it is better the devil you know. The previous employee has

been trained to your standard, knows the team and understands your brand. With some clear guidelines, strong management and structured training initiatives in place there is no reason why your former employee shouldn’t return and thrive within the salon environment.

The alternative When recruitment is hard and there is a shortage of new talent coming through, it makes sense to consider employing previous members of staff. The alternative could be to spend your resources trying to inspire those that don’t want to be trained. Equally, you could recruit a stranger who doesn’t understand your brand or your quality of hairdressing, only for them to leave once you’ve invested time and money in them. The saying goes that everyone deserves a second chance and while I acknowledge that, I do appreciate there are reasons why some employees shouldn’t come back to your business. For example, if there’s a personality clash, if both parties feel like it’s a step backwards or if they 27 / hji.co.uk

were never that good to start with. In today’s society when good hairdressers are hard to find, why should you let pride and emotion stand in the way of a positive opportunity for your business? Some might say, ‘once a leaver, always a leaver’ but is that necessarily a bad trait? If we approached our team, expecting that one day they will leave to trial whether the grass is greener elsewhere, we wouldn’t be so reluctant to invite them back, knowing they have learned from their experience. Vincent Bell Hairdressing recently made the decision to re-employ someone who left. We weighed up the pros and cons and in the end, it was a no-brainer. We knew the team enjoyed working with this person and that our clients missed them so from a business viewpoint it made sense to take that risk. Yes, they might leave again, but everyone leaves at some point so as an industry we need to learn not to take it personally.

Karen Bell Is the co-founder of Vincent Bell Hairdressing in Edinburgh with her husband Vincent Bell. The salon was established 20 years ago and is known for its customer service, celebrity clientele and its exclusive training academy, which opened in 2006.

SHUTTERSTOCK

The warning signs for when not to employ someone

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WELLA HACKS: GET CREATIVE WITH COLOUR

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Wella Professionals technical educator Jade Harrison shares ways to experiment with colour and increase revenue using Koleston Perfect with ME+

Be more adventurous Trust is a huge factor when it comes to clients being more adventurous with colour. Take time to build trust by having a deep understanding of the client you are working with. You can do this by building mood boards together on apps such as Pinterest. Taking five minutes out to do this will really help to identify what vibe your client is looking to achieve. Once that trust is established, clients will be relying on you to come up with new looks for their hair.

How can Koleston Perfect with ME+ help?

Design bespoke shades Our industry is tougher than ever as salons are not only in competition with each other, but they are also in competition with social media. This means there should be a huge emphasis on client loyalty. Clients love to feel like their service is completely unique to them. Create a personalised section pattern or colour formula and tell your client all about it. The best thing about creativity is that it’s not easy to replicate.

Generate extra revenue Creative colour requires skill. It’s something that we would always encourage a colourist to charge more

for in order to generate more revenue. However, creative colouring isn’t always everyone’s bag. If you want to offer this to your client but aren’t sure where to start, be guided by the haircut. Something as simple as adding a shadow under a fine section of hair can make an area look fuller. Alternatively, you could lighten the hair to elongate and add length to short areas. These are simple ways to add a more creative spin to a colouring service which in turn, can generate more income for you and your salon business.

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WellaUK

WellaHairUK 31 / hji.co.uk

“Creative colouring can be a challenge, especially with long hair as there are many considerations that need to be made. Wella Professionals latest innovation – Koleston Perfect with ME+ has made colouring simple. With the support of Pure Balance Technology, it allows us to create even and predictable colour results from root to tip. Not only does it mean we don’t have to compensate for those porous mid lengths and ends that interfere with our creative flow, Pure Balance Technology also supports the number one concern for clients – the condition of their hair. The Koleston Perfect ME+ range has a unique selection of special mixes to enhance and personalise your in-salon colour looks and creativity.”

APPRENTICE WEEK

What Advice Would You Give to Your Junior Self? To celebrate National Apprentice Week on 4-8 March, HJ quizzed the industry on the advice they wish they’d known when they first started out

Now “Learn as much as you can from those more informed than you, but don’t be frozen by it. Listen to your instincts and don’t be afraid to challenge your superiors if you believe in what you are doing. Work for the enjoyment of the process and don’t get caught up in thinking about outcomes or achievements. No achievement will truly matter if the work hasn’t come from the right place. Above all else, stop wearing that leather biker jacket.”

Now

Tom Connell, Trevor Sorbie artistic director

Then

“Be clear on who you want to be and what you want to achieve. I started at 13 years old and knew that I wanted to learn everything I could – I was like a sponge soaking it all up. I wasn’t bothered by how many hours I needed to work each week to get the knowledge I needed. Get involved in any competition work you can – it’s great experience and helps to improve confidence. Don’t be afraid to ask questions as it’s all part of the learning process.”

Alan Simpson, Contemporary Salons group managing director

Then

James Earnshaw

Now Then

“I’d tell my junior self not to be scared to try everything as everyone has to start somewhere. It’s an incredible industry for sharing knowledge and the training on offer is phenomenal. My advice would be to take every course available and network as you’ll make amazing friends as well as building a business you absolutely love.”

Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty

“I would tell my younger self to pay less attention to what other people think. If you work hard and treat people with kindness you will go far. It’s important to keep your goals in mind and do your best to work towards them. Remember to have fun as I’ve been guilty of working too hard and not allowing myself any down time to hang out with friends. Balance is the key to success for both your career and your personal life.”

Jay Birmingham, Jay Birmingham Hair

“My advice to myself at 16 would be to enjoy all of my training. I really wanted to be qualified as a hairdresser as fast as I could because I was so hungry to be called a stylist. My advice would be to slow down, enjoy training at a slower speed and to learn cutting and colouring as this would have saved me a lot of colour training when I was 19. I would also tell my younger self to create work that I love for competitions and not what I think people want to see. When you’re young and starting out you can lose yourself and get carried away.”

Now

Then 32 / hji.co.uk

Then

Now

APPRENTICE WEEK

“Being young doesn’t mean you don’t know what you want to do. I’ve always loved hairdressing and I come from a line of hairdressers. You have to make a name for yourself. Believe in what you do, learn from those around you and do a proper apprenticeship as then you’ll be allowed to break the rules later on. If you’re creative, let this side develop and enjoy the process as much as the finished product. In this life, you’ll have more than one career but they will all be in hairdressing.”

Now

Then

Gary Taylor, Edward & Co “Always be proud of who you are and love what you are doing. Be true to yourself and persevere as this will take you to the top. I love cutting hair, however I also love teaching, nurturing and developing talent. I decided to concentrate my efforts into building a business that could deliver this. I’d tell my younger self determination and perseverance are necessary for success. Enjoy every day and always work with integrity.”

Then

Janet Maitland, Janet Maitland Hair Excellence

Then

Now

Jason Hogan, Josh Wood associate colourist

“I was fortunate to follow the path that I believed was right for me and ended up becoming a hairdresser. I was 19 when I started out and lots of people thought I would be too old. It’s important to follow your instinct and do what you feel is right. Don’t be afraid to experiment and try out new things as you may end up creating something brilliant.”

Now

“Focus, listen and be patient as you can’t run before you can walk. The classics take time to master and are the foundation of any inspirational hair images you see. Aim to be in the industry with longevity and skill, rather than as a ‘one hit wonder’. It’s an amazing career choice with endless opportunities but you have to put in lots of hard work first.”

Darren Ambrose, D&J Ambrose

Then

“Be patient because good things come to those who wait. Don’t compare yourself to others as everyone has their own path. Show up early and be the last to leave because it doesn’t go unnoticed. You will make mistakes but don’t beat yourself up as you will learn from them. Be kind to everyone you meet as people talk in this industry and always make time for a glass of wine with a friend.”

Now

Phillip Bell, Ishoka artistic director

Then

“The creative process is tough but if you work hard and stay focused it will be amazing. Hard work, determination and focus will get you to where you want to be so believe in yourself. Surround yourself with people who inspire you, support you and celebrate with you. Be a team player and be kind. That includes being kind to yourself. If you see it in your mind, you can create it. Wear gloves and use hand cream, otherwise you will have hands that are 10 years older than the rest of you. Go out more after work, laugh and dance. I dropped accountancy to be a hairdresser and it’s the best industry in the world. I’d tell myself to stop worrying and just do it. That would have saved me some sleepless nights.”

Lyndsey Ford, IdHair educator 33 / hji.co.uk

Then

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BRUSHES

H E T T E E M H HEROES S U

HJ speaks to brand ambassadors and salon owners about the hero brush in their kit bag that can be used to create three striking looks

37 / hji.co.uk

BRUSHES The hero brush: Alfa Italia Sessione Brush Key traits: The Alfa Italia Sessione brush has an ergonomic and lightweight design and a non-slip handle. It is available exclusively at alanhoward.co.uk. Why it’s a hero: “It retains the heat from your hairdryer and the tourmaline-infused ceramic barrel reduces drying time, which means you can style with confidence.” Paulo Andreuccetti, Pelé Hairdressing, Glasgow

Look 1: Glamourous 1940s waves • Run the brush

down over the top of the head to smooth out the hair. • Maintain the movement through to the ends for a glamorous and sophisticated 1940s style wave.

Look 2: Playful blow-dry • Wrap hair over the top of

Look 3: Natural effect • Turn the client’s head

Look 2: Bouncy curls • Prep the hair first with a

Look 3: Curly blow-dry • Prep with a curl cream. • Leave multiple brushes

the brush. Take sections from the front to the base of the neck. • Drive the sides to the top of the head and dry upwards to create root lift. • Working the ends with hot and cold blasts will allow the ends to set. This creates movement throughout the mid lengths and ends.

upside down and with your hands, massage the scalp to create volume. • Separate the ends to give a looser and more undone feel to the hair. • Take freehand sections, wrap the hair around the brush and set it with a hot and cold blast from the dryer.

The hero brush: Balmain Paris Hair Couture Ceramic Round Brush 43mm Key traits: This 43mm round brush is designed for medium to long length hair for a smooth blow-dry style. Why it’s a hero: “The Balmain Paris Hair Couture Ceramic Round Brush is the perfect tool for creating the bouncy and loose styles that clients request.” Jack Granite, Pose and Pout, Liverpool

Look 1: Sleek and Straight • Prep the hair first with

a moisturising elixir oil and a thermal heat protection spray. • Blast hair until it is 60% to 70% dry. • Start blow-drying with the brush. Leave it in until the section is cooled down and continue through the entire head. • Finish with hairspray.

heat protection spray.

• Use multiple Balmain

Ceramic Round Brushes 43mm and leave all of them in the head until the blow-dry is complete. • Remove the brushes after five minutes. • Run your fingers through the hair and add hairspray to finish the look.

in the hair until the end and spray each section with a hairspray. • Take small sections and wait for them to cool for five minutes before removing the brushes. • Ask your client to move her head so the curls fall into position.

Look 2: Boy cut • Taking its inspiration

Look 3: Va va voom • The looseness of this

The hero brush: Denman D3 Styling Brush Key traits: The D3 has unique sculpted pins that deliver the ultimate in controlled styling and natural curl definition to style, shape and define curls as well as detangle and smooth the hair. Why it’s a hero: “Denman is at the heart of the industry, with the best tools a stylist could wish for at every level.” Paul Stafford, Denman creative director

Look 1:1970s ‘do • When hair is 85%

dry, take sections and smooth out each section. When the hair reaches the drying point roll the brush into the hair. • Repeat throughout. • For the fringe use the D3 to drag the hair forwards for a light root lift and finish with spray.

from the genderless vibe within the hair industry and fashion, Boy Cut is a unisex shape that has a 1950s feel. • Style the hair with some mousse. • Finally, blow-dry hair with the Denman D3 Styling Brush to create this strong, androgynous and fashion-forward look.

38 / hji.co.uk

shape is created through styling. • Use the Denman D3 and Collexia Dryer on a slow speed to move the hair around the head. • Blow-dry the hair and set it in place with pins until cool, then carefully tease out to exaggerate this beautiful haircut.

W E L C O M E

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BRUSHES The hero brush: ghd Glide Key traits: With this hot brush, clients can maintain beautiful smooth hair between appointments. It tames and smooths dry hair quickly and it is perfect for second-day styling. Why it’s a hero: “I’m obsessed with it and my clients love it too. It’s perfect for adding volume and creates a beautiful texture.” Zoe Irwin, ghd brand ambassador

Look 1: Smooth texture • Prep with heat spray and

brush in sections.

• Holding the section of

hair at 45°, place ghd Glide directly at the roots with the logo facing the head and bristles outwards and slowly glide the brush to the ends. Repeat this process throughout the hair. • Finish with two pumps of a smooth finishing serum.

Look 2: Insta-perfect • Hold each section of

Look 3: Two-day smooth • Place ghd Glide under a

Look 2: Voluminous ‘fro • Wash hair with an Afro

Look 3: Marcel wave • Blow-dry with a volume

hair up, place ghd Glide underneath at the root with the logo facing the head and the bristles facing out. • Pass it through the section in an upward motion. At the ends of the hair, start to pull the glide out at 90°. • Repeat throughout and to create extra volume, overdirect the hair at the crown.

one inch horizontal section of hair at the root with the logo facing the head and bristles facing out. • Smooth it down the section to the ends. Place it back at the root but on top of the hair with the logo facing outward and smooth from root to tip. • Repeat throughout the hair.

The hero brush: Kent KS07 Large Wide Paddle Brush Key traits: A full sized paddle brush with the Kent Salon fat quills and a large 90mm head for detangling and brushing long hair. It makes blow-drying a breeze. Why it’s a hero: “I would never leave the salon to do shows or shoots without it as it’s fantastic at detangling!” Rick Roberts, Rick Roberts Hair, Beverley

Look 1: Big and bouncy • Apply a volumising

product on the KSO7 brush and comb through from the root to the ends. • Dry the hair until it is 80% dry and reapply the volumising product. • Wrap dry the hair with a brush and finish by teasing in volume at the root. • Complete the look with a holding spray.

shampoo and conditioner.

• Detangle the hair with the

brush. Use an Afro product that creates volume while conditioning dry hair and twist to show off texture. • To create volume and shape, brush out the hair in sections until you achieve the desired style. • Finish with a shine spray.

product and use the KSO7 brush. Then blow-dry the hair in a brick set and allow it to cool. Once cool, brush out the hair in layers from root to ends. • Overlap the front section and tuck behind the ear with four pins below each wave for detail. • Finally, add hair oil.

The hero brush: Tangle Teezer Blow Styling Tool Key Traits: It has fixed base teeth with built-in tension and slight flexibility at the tips for a quick, smooth and gentle blow-dry without pulling or stretch-drying. Why it’s a hero: “It’s my go-to tool for speed-drying on session shoots and in the salon.” Thomas Hills, TH1 Hair, Surrey

Look 1: Innocence • Prep the hair with a

volume mousse and blow-dry using the Tangle Teezer Blow Styling Tool. Keep the sections small to ensure the roots are dry. • From the temple to the crown apply gel. • To finish the look, tease the hair at the roots of the quiff for durability. • Finish with hairspray.

Look 2: Jessica Rabbit • Apply mousse to damp

hair. Section hair into sections from the back working upwards. • Pull away from the roots to gain root lift. Roll the hair in and out to create a spiral effect. Move the air of the hairdryer through the centre of the brush. • Place slim section clips around the hairline.

40 / hji.co.uk

Look 3: The choppy bob • Apply lots of mousse. • Take sections working

through the back and build a triangular shape through the blow-dry. • Take the Tangle Teezer Blow Styling Tool and start at the nape of the neck to build volume. • Roughly blow-dry the ends and brush the fringe for an undone look.

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PRESENTS THE

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INTERVIEW

Exclusive:

The Journey to My Destination HJ speaks to British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks about an industry documentary, which will be available on Amazon to promote hairdressing as a career for young people WHY DO YOU LOVE HAIR?

Can you tell us about your new documentary?

Across the industry we have a massive problem attracting assistants. Every single salon is struggling to fill these positions. It could be because of the way hairdressing is portrayed. I decided to make a three-minute YouTube clip to promote our industry which ended up being a one-hour film. There is no production company or film crew – it’s just me and Gabriel Maciuca. Gabriel is a barber and videographer and together we undertook this project. We hope this documentary will be taken into schools and colleges to allow everyone to see that we are a profession and there’s plenty of scope to build a lifelong career.

Some of the hairdressers featured in the documentary share what they love most about the hair industry “Interacting with guests every day and the people that you work alongside makes hairdressing really satisfying for me.” Skyler Hanna, Skyler London

What inspired you to create it?

Sally Brooks produced the documentary with videographer Gabriel Maciuca

I could see this growing problem in our industry and it’s easy to wait for someone else to do something about it. As HJ’s British Hairdresser of the Year, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, I felt it was my responsibility to give something back to the industry.

thankful for everyone’s time, support and trust. Moving around the country with equipment, no film crew, no editing team or scriptwriters was a challenge on its own. It was also difficult to chop down all of the amazing interviews that we filmed.

How can it be used to promote hairdressing to young people?

It’s essential for us to unite as hairdressers and promote apprenticeships at the same level as university, rather than viewing apprenticeships as for those who don’t succeed academically. We hope the industry will take this documentary and use it in their own towns to show what we have to offer. What’s been the biggest challenge you’ve faced?

It’s one thing having an idea but it’s another thing making that idea come to life. The industry is full of amazing people that care about the industry and are prepared to give something back. I’m really

Can you tell us about the collection that goes alongside the documentary and is featured exclusively in HJ this month?

The end of the documentary is about promoting the next generation of hairdressers and that’s what the collection featured in this month’s issue is about. Young hairdressers are the ones that will speak to the generation below them. It’s really important that we respect the style of work created by everyone who comes into our industry and we allow these young creatives to find their own platform. It’s like we say in the documentary – the next generation will change the way that society looks at young hairdressers. We want young hairdressers to be treated with respect so they will feel proud to be part of our incredible profession.

Where to watch it? It will be available on Amazon from 20 February as a one-hour documentary. Go to thejourneytomydestination.com or email ruth@redmanemedia.com for further information. 45 / hji.co.uk

“In the UK we have such a vibrant industry and the calibre of new talent is so high.” Simon Shaw, Wahl “I believe that to love something properly you have to hate it as well. You’ve got to put in so much effort, drive, commitment and sacrifice that you’ve got to get to the point where you hate it before you can love it.” Tom O’Connell, Trevor Sorbie “It’s great that barbers and hairdressers are starting to respect each other for their different skill sets.” Frank Rimer, Thy Barber “When I do a haircut I always strive to do better – I like that constant feeling of progression that our industry provides.” Joth Davies, Savills Barbers

Hair: Jordanna Cobella

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THE

K C A P T A BR Sally Brooks invited a group of talented young hairdressers to take part in a shoot, which is featured in The Journey to My Destination documentary 46 / hji.co.uk

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;This young group of hairdressers are only part of the amazing talent we are seeing coming through. They have their own way of looking at the industry and their own style. If they set an example for the future generation and pass on their knowledge, we know the industry is in safe hands!â&#x20AC;?

49 / hji.co.uk

Hair: Caroline Schmitt

Hair: Ashleigh Hodges

Hair: Marlon Hawkins

Hair: Simon Tuckwell

Hair: Grace Dalgleish

Sally Brooks

FASHION

50 / hji.co.uk

Hair: Ria Kulik

Hair: Emmanuel Esteban

Hair: Harriet Stokes

Hair: Casey Coleman

Hair: Jamie Benny

Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Mekel Bailey Clothes: Georgina Hardinge Photography: Kevin Luchmun

COLOUR

RED ALERT! Are you catering for redheads in your salon? You could be missing out on extra revenue and loyal clients if not HAIR: GOLDWELL 51 / hji.co.uk

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COLOUR

Reignite the red services you offer in the salon to attract both natural and red-transitioning clients

PAUL MITCHELL

IN THE RED 54 / hji.co.uk

Which shade?

COLOUR

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Both

Warm skin tones

Brick red, cherry, crimson, mahogany red, raspberry, violet red, wine red, blue red and strong red

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ate Bosworth, Sophie Turner and even small screen stars such as Stacey Dooley from Strictly Come Dancing, have all been on a red-venture in recent times and have done wonders for bringing both natural and dyed redheads into a new era. “Red hair used to be viewed as a bold colour choice and only worn by those who wanted to be seen and heard,” explains Kirsten Maine, director of Live True London. “This has shifted as people are realising that red hair brightens up facial features, offers a multi-dimensional look and with the right shade it can flatter most skin tones.” There has been a 100% increase in the search term ‘ginger balayage’, while ‘red balayage’ is also proving popular with 9,900 searches on average each month, according to Google Trends 2019. In response, there has been a spike in the number of colour houses bringing out red-centric launches and services. Return of the red The new influx of red colour shades are broad, ranging from the brightest pillar-box red to a more muted rouge. “Red can absolutely be a soft and subtle colour choice in the same way that blondes can be bold or bright, delicate or punchy,” Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK and Ireland technical director points out. Red hair is proving to be a hit on Instagram too. There were 14.6 million posts with #redhair at last count. “Bright shades and cinnamon tones have been popular on social media and there’s nothing more stunning than a redhead with glossy locks,” confirms Neil Barton, Goldwell UK guest artist. What to ask yourself Are you catering to your existing red clientele? Could you be doing

The personal touch more to tempt clients to ‘go red’ and There are so many shade variations so could you attract redhead clients understanding your client’s personality from other salons? “Sometimes and style is crucial. “We always it can feel like red shades are advise our newly red clients to think neglected from a marketing point of about changing their make-up and view, as advertising doesn’t always wardrobe as some colours may not feature flame-haired beauties,” work with their new hair,” explains points out Heffy Wheeler, OSMO Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional brand ambassador and owner of global artistic ambassador. This HX Hair. Look at the services you year Revlon are promoting in has heralded a salon and on social “Brights shades and ‘Redvolution’ media – what colour cinnamon tones [...] with new red and hair do the model copper shades by images you use in there’s nothing more Revlonissimo Color your marketing have stunning than a redhead Sublime which and is your retail makes it simple offering with glossy locks” to cherry pick the red-friendly? right colour for your Throughout this Neil Barton, Goldwell client and their style. feature, we will guide you through the red colour Skincare analysis process from consultation to It’s crucial to get the right red for a after-care, to ensure you are catering client’s skin tone. Carolyn Newman, to redheads in a way that will bring founder of Carolyn Newman Academy new clients and repeat custom. The has a great tip to identify the right most special and arguably most tones for clients: “To check whether lucrative aspect about redheads is the fact the colour demands maintenance cool shades or warm shades work best on your client place a hot pink and a with regular salon appointments. If bright orange scarf under their chin. you get it right your redhead clients Whichever tone makes their eyes will be loyal for life. sparkle and their skin look healthy is the correct one.” If the pink looks The consultation best, opt for cool tones, whereas Instagram – whether you think it’s if the orange makes their features supporting the colour industry or pop, use warmer tones. Gemma creating unrealistic expectations – is Hensman, director at Hensmans often the first port of call for people and a Schwarzkopf Professional who are thinking about a colour ambassador places trial pieces in her change. “Clients will come in with client’s hair. “Test pieces allow me ideas based on what they have seen to see what pre-pigmentation may on social media and they often want be needed – if any at all.” Word of results that aren’t realistic for the hair warning – if your client’s skin has very or the appointment’s time frame,” red undertones, you might want to explains Tracey Devine Smith, A.S.P avoid taking their hair red. global ambassador. This means a Head to p60 to find out the next face-to-face colour consultation is steps in your red adventure crucial for red clients. 55 / hji.co.uk

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interact negatively with hydrogen peroxide. They generate free radicals that break the keratin bonds making the final colour unpredictable, unreliable and toned-down. What’s the solution? Protecting hair from environmental aggressors is easy with Magn±t. Each product in the range has a role and aims to neutralise and repel pollutant particles on the hair by reducing the negative effects of poor water quality, reinforcing the hair fibre and creating a shield to reveal the best colour result. The best news is that the products can be used with any colour and lightening brand.

The science After years of research, Revlon Professional’s science team has found the formula for shielding against the damaging effects of pollution. Meet the Pollupl±x System… Pollupl±x System = chelating agents + antioxidants + keratin reinforcers + shielding ingredients

The personalised service The range can be prescribed in full or offered as part of a client’s take home care routine. As a hair professional you can create a tailor-made routine for the client and reinforce your expertise as a hair expert. 58 / hji.co.uk

Meet the range The Colouring and Lightening Service Step 1. De-pollute with Magn±t Anti-Pollution Neutralizer Step 2. Cleanse with Magn±t Color Lock Repairing Shampoo Step 3. Protect with Magn±t Anti-Pollution Daily Shield

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For more information visit revlonprofessional.com or call 020 7391 7440 @RevlonProfessionalUK #createboldly #liveboldly #magnetRP 59 / hji.co.uk

COLOUR

Fail to Prepare Prepare to Fail Whether your client is a natural blonde, brunette or has Afro hair – there’s a lot to consider before giving your client red locks

clear of red shades. A bad red is very easy to spot and it’s a tricky colour to create at home, which is why an exquisite red is always engineered in a salon,” stresses Jason Hogan, celebrity and associate colourist at Josh Wood Colour. From blonde to red Changing a client from blonde to red can be challenging. Always follow the fundamental rules of hair colour and don’t be tempted to rush. “It’s important to pre-pigment the hair to the correct desired undertone as this will help maintain the longevity of the colour,” explains Warren Boodaghians, TIGI European technical academy director. You could always play the long game and change a client’s hair over the course of several appointments. “My recommendation is to begin softly and take a client on a journey starting with a soft copper blonde and transitioning into red over time,” he says. 60 / hji.co.uk

From brown to red Going from brunette to red can be more straightforward. Lisa Whiteman, Goldwell UK guest artist says: “When taking a natural brunette to a red shade it’s important to know your client’s underlying tone. Is it yellow, orange or red? You have to use a shade that is going to counteract or enhance the underlying tones of the hair.” For instance, if a client has underlying red tones and a stylist uses a very bright copper, the result could be too punchy. The roots should always be applied last and mid-lengths and ends applied first to avoid any unsightly ‘root glow’. “An additional red or copper Goldwell Elumen glaze applied after a redhead tint application will give the hair an amazing shine and finish,” adds Lisa. Afro hair to red Red is now a viable option for those with Afro hair. Previously, lightening hair would run the risk of damage due to its porous and fragile nature. Formulation advances led Gemma Amura, Celeb Luxury regional technical educator, to create a rich red on her Afro-haired client. She explains: “I pre-lightened her natural base 4 hair to a level 7 then applied Celeb Luxury Viral Colorditioner in Magenta and Red. My client took Colorditioner home and added colour herself before coming back for a lightener touch-up on her roots.” GEMMA AMURA

Colour slow and steady When it comes to the colour application process the key is to create a blank canvas. Issie Churcher, colour director at Brooks & Brooks says: “The saying ‘fail to prepare, prepare to fail’ is an appropriate phrase to live by when you are colouring hair red. You need a good base so that a consistent flow of colour is achievable, either from root to tip or from a darker shadow at the roots that transitions to lighter ends.” The race is on to keep reds coming into the salon. The technological advances of at-home products will make it tempting for clients to touch up their easy-to-fade colour at home. “Glowing roots, dull brown ends, banding and monochromatic colour – these red danger zones make it easy to see why people used to steer

SHARON MALCOLM

he integrity of your client’s hair is paramount. Before you colour always ensure the hair is in the best possible condition. “I always try to do a month of treatments to give the hair strength and infuse it with moisture,” explains Carolyn Newman. An in-salon service such as TIGI Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment contains 100 times more keratin than a shampoo and conditioner combined. It improves the hair’s condition prior to colouring, it is simple to use, requires no mixing and it processes in just five minutes.

COLOUR

“When we want red it doesn’t last and when we want to get rid of red tones, it sticks around – go figure!”

REVLON

Vicki Hoskin, Manic Panic educator

The long game Jason Hogan’s recipe reveals the small steps he takes to achieving a gorgeous red For blondes • Deepen the root • Add lowlights in cinnamon and apricot • Put a sparkle in old ends with amber glaze For brunettes • Warm up the base slightly • Add a red gloss for a spicy-looking finish 61 / hji.co.uk

COLOUR

Code PAUL MITCHELL

red

The direct dyes, semi and demipermanents that will achieve a ravishing shade

Schwarzkopf IGORA Vibrance is a fast-acting semi-permanent colour. There are eight red shades in the range which are perfect for enhancing natural red tones.

Ready to join the Revlon Redvolution? Color Sublime by Revlonissimo has an extensive range of beautiful reds and coppers with specific C5 colorants for intense results.

Ammonia-free L’Oréal Professionnel INOA has launched four new amber shades that range from cool coppers to dark red/browns to give more options to clients in the salon.

The red shades in the new Fudge Professional Headpaint range all have added pomegranate oil to neutralise free-radicals, helping to reduce hair porosity and prevent fade.

The Joico Lumishine Natural Red Gold series infuses natural base tones with warmth. The sunset inspired shades have a natural base to prevent the colour fading to pink.

The 20 shades within Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode Vibrant Reds range are infused with nourishing ingredients such as argan oil and vitamins C, E and B5.

Balmain Couleurs Couture is a spa hair colour enriched with silk protein, flaxseed, coconut and argan elixir which helps to repair the hair and it is perfect for prolonging red shades.

Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+ contains the brand’s Pure Balance Technology which delivers rich vibrant results with less damage colour after colour.

ASP Rock Star Reds colour range improves the vibrancy, depth and longevity of red formulations and it is available in five standout shades with a £6.29 salon price.

For bold and bright colour try Goldwell Pure Pigments. The high definition direct dye additives open up a whole new dimension of colour and give hairdressers the opportunity to experiment.

62 / hji.co.uk

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COLOUR

High Maintenance The salon appointment is just the start of a redhead’s journey because red hair always needs extra care

our client’s hair looks fabulous when they leave the salon but you don’t want them to return in four to six weeks with a lacklustre mane that is past its best. “Red colour fades quickly (especially over blonde) and when a client leaves the salon they should be advised their colour is a journey and an investment,” explains Andrew Trott-Barn, creative director at Advanced Pro Salon. “Always endorse colour protecting shampoos, conditioners and boosters. If you’re going from brown to red, it’s more likely to have depth rather than vibrancy so recommend shine-inducing products too.” Research and recommend the appropriate colour care products for clients to purchase and make sure your retail shelf is red-friendly. Why not think about selling them a colour-depositing conditioner so they can top up their hue at home? Make sure you tell your clients how to style and treat their new ruby locks too. “Use styling tools with caution as these also have a massive impact on colour fade and always use a thermo heat protector,” warns Shelley Pengilly, milk_shake creative team member. If your client has coloured red hair, advise them to keep the temperature of hot tools under 175°C.

The improved formula of OSMO Colour Revive delivers results in three minutes – the Radiant Red shade is ideal to keep reds bright and vivid between colour appointments.

Andrew Trott-Barn, Advanced Pro Salon

ROBERT EATON

Fight the fade

“Red colour fades quickly and when a client leaves the salon they should be advised their colour is a journey and an investment”

The Goldwell Kerasilk Color Brilliance range contains the Intensive Luster Mask which seals the cuticle of the hair and has been specially designed for those with porous or damaged locks. 65 / hji.co.uk

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Special Color Shampoo and Conditioner contains rooibos tea botanicals to help protect against fade, while still providing the much-loved tingle of tea tree. It is available from Salon Success.

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

PAUL MITCHELL

COLOUR

The next appointment To help colour last longer, book your client in for regular in-salon treatments. “The Fudge Professional Treatment Time Machine repairs breakage to the internal structure of the hair shaft and cuticle,” explains Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. “The third step of the treatment is called Top Lock and this can be continued at home to give protection for 10 weeks.” When one part of the red colour journey ends, another begins. “After the first colour process, advise

clients to book in for a refresh appointment within four to six weeks,” says Carolyn. This way they will see their colour at its best and lasting for longer. Your client will value your expertise and service and will understand why regular professional colour appointments and at-home products are essential for gorgeous red hair. This will also help to build loyalty. Once clients have found the perfect red shade they won’t want any other colourist to touch their hair. Plus, they won’t be tempted to touch it up at home. 66 / hji.co.uk

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COLOUR

Oh So Natural Make sure you are also looking after natural-born redheads in the salon

Colour enhancers There are lots of ways to tempt natural redheads with colour. For example, L’Oréal Professionnel is spreading the message that ‘balayage is not just for blondes’. The brand has launched four new INOA shades ranging from cool coppers to dark browns, all with an ammonia-free formula and patented oil delivery system technology. It’s wise to consider the extra services you can offer redhead clients on a regular basis. “In my experience natural redheads want to go lighter rather than darker so tempt them with blonde sunkissed highlights,” says Sharon Malcolm, owner of Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing. If they want to maintain their natural colour but it’s looking a little lacklustre offer a demi-permanent service. “You could give hair a pick-me-up with a demipermanent such as Joico Lumishine Liquid Demi-Permanent,” explains Dan Spiller, Joico colour ambassador for Europe, UK and Ireland. “It will boost tone, rehydrate hair and give radiance.” There are also creative colour opportunities with natural redheads. “Natural redheads tend to resign themselves to either lightening up or even going black,” says Patrick Marrow, Crazy Color brand ambassador and owner of HIVE MCR. “We like to add Crazy Color Pinkissimo on wet hair as a conditioner for about 10 minutes as it gives a beautiful rose gold finish.” Regardless of whether your redhead is natural or not, this type of client is an exciting prospect for your salon. Being ‘in the red’ has never looked so good.

LOME PARIS

atural red hair can be dry and it has the potential to look lacklustre if it’s not given intensive conditioning and glossing treatments. If your client is coming in for a cut, fringe trim or restyle book them in for Did you know a glossing service and natural redheads think about how the make up around 10% retail offering can be of the population tailored to them. “Red in Scotland, Ireland hair looks best when and Wales? it’s radiant so we always try to upsell a gloss treatment to our red-haired clients when they book. As red pigments are light sensitive, we also recommend products with UV ray protection,” says Carly Price, partner at Muse of London.

68 / hji.co.uk

IMAGINE COLOR. NOW ELUMENATE IT. Imagine the most stunning colors you can - the most vivid reds, the deepest blues, the freshest greens and the most ﬁery oranges – now let them glow with reﬂections of brilliant light. This is ELUMENATION, by Goldwell. Discover the new @Pure Pigments Cool Violet and Topchic and Colorance @Elumenated Metallics.

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FASHION

HAIR LIKE YOU

Discover the beauty and diversity of your clients 71 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“Great Lengths’ new campaign celebrates women’s beauty, diversity and freedom in the stunning setting of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj in Rome.” Elisa Barbieri for Great Lengths

Hair direction: Lorenza Ferretti for Great Lengths Make-up: Kassandra Frua De Angel Styling: Luca Imbimbo Photography: Andrea Olivo

72 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

73 / hji.co.uk

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FASHION

CREATE A MASTERPIECE Allow the creative juices to flow with hair that showcases art in its most contemporary form 75 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Cut and Styling: Ryan Nicoletti-Dowd Colour: Joico creative artists Paul Watts, Sevda Durukan and Larisa Love Make-up: Joyce Wallan Photography: Daisy Koomen

“We took inspiration from art in its broadest sense to create the Masterpiece collection. Whether it was a movement, a style or an artist, art was the key to our creativity and inspiration.” Joico’s creative artists

76 / hji.co.uk

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DEFY DAMAGE WITH JOICO Joico has unveiled the breakthrough in protective haircare that you and your clients have always wanted

oico Defy Damage is a new line of professional in-salon bond-protecting and colourprotecting treatments as well as an at-home care range that needs to be seen and felt to be believed.

The two-step treatment optimises product performance and provides powerful damage protection. In two easy steps, it helps to protect hair bonds before, during and after every chemical service for stunning results.

In-Salon Step One – ProSeries 1 The Defy Damage ProSeries is an in-salon two-step treatment. The first step of the treatment is called the ProSeries 1, which is a bond-protecting colour optimiser spray. A first of its kind, it is a completely new way of looking at the needs of your clients’ hair. It will save you time on colour services and blow-dries and it will improve your colour results while protecting the hair.

Step Three – Home Care System Clients can extend these professional results at home thanks to the Defy Damage Home Care System. It protects all hair types from the effects of heat styling and UV exposure and environmental pollution that can lead to dry and dull locks. It helps to protect and strengthen hair bonds for a healthy hair transformation that clients can see and feel from the comfort of their own home.

Step Two – ProSeries 2 The second step of the treatment is the ProSeries 2, which is a bond-strengthening colour treatment. It works with any hair colour and lightener to replenish bonds and hydrate locks for stronger and healthier-looking hair.

What are the benefits of using Defy Damage? ProSeries 1 and 2 In-Salon Treatment • Increased and more even lift • Bond renewal and strengthening • Even porosity for better colour deposit • Maintains over 90% of colour vibrancy • Start to finish bond protection • Immediate soft feel • Increased shine

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GET THE LOOK

Coming up Roses Discover how to recreate this pink-hued look with milk_shake creative team member Shelley Pengilly

1 2

Pre-lighten your client’s hair with a high lift tint.

To tone the hair mix milk_shake Smoothies Cocktail with equal parts Powder and Pink Grapefruit, plus Light Activator. Rinse out after 20 minutes.

Apply a colour care conditioner over the colour then make sure to rinse thoroughly.

Apply a milk_shake Direct Colour Cocktail, which is 3 parts Powder and 1 part Light Red with a bowl of leave in-conditioner. This is a root to end application and should be combed through the hair and left for 10 minutes.

For a silky finish, blow-dry hair with a smoothing cream. This will help hot tools glide through longer hair more easily. Style the hair using a straightening iron in a downward motion – remember to alternate the direction you twist the hair to create loose and bohemian waves.

80 / hji.co.uk

3 SHOWS, 3 VENUES Register your interest for free tickets at www.hjlive.co.uk

EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 23-24 FEBRUARY 2020

PRESENTED BY

T HE HOT LIST

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Tousled perfection

Introduce an element of the spa into your salon with Eufora Scentsory. Featuring candles, air mists, essential oil blends and a diffuser, the range features a unique blend of scents. From £19.99

Re-ignite blondes with Kérastase Blond Absolu. The range contains hydrating hyaluronic acid and edelweiss flower. There are five at-home products and an in-salon post lightening booster.

Give locks an extra dose of definition with Goldwell StyleSign Dry Boost Dry Texture Spray. It gives a soft grip and helps to add volume without weighing down the hair. RRP £14.50

Cut, rave, repeat

Go bold

Bleach babe

Glamtech Scissors has unveiled a neon series in four vibrant shades. Hand crafted in durable stainless steel, the scissors maintain a sharp edge and they are designed with comfort in mind.

A new intense direct dye has landed. Staino by Evo Fab Pro lasts up to 50 washes, fades true to tone and can be added to a colour conditioner for the client to maintain the brightness at home.

IdHAIR Bleach Me Power+ can be used for bleaching, lightening or highlighting. It lifts the hair up to 9 levels and contains ingredients that protect the cuticle layer and structure of the hair.

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T HE HOT LIST

Damage control

Tone up

Twist and shout

Joico Defy Damage is a two-step in-salon treatment to prevent breakage, increase shine and boost colour. It also includes an at-home care range to protect all hair types from dull and lacklustre locks.

Hari’s CBD Clean Colour Toner tints, balances and treats hair using CBD, vegetable powder and precious crystals. The toner can be mixed to add warmth, depth and neutralise yellow or brassy tones.

Curls will stay in place for longer thanks to the Muk Curl Stick’s smooth titanium plate. The inter-changeable barrel system also gives stylists the flexibility to create different sized curls. RRP £89.95

Smarter tools

City-proof hair

American dream

Paul Mitchell has teamed up with designer Karim Rashid to create the Neuro Halo Dryer for body and volume. It features a touch screen display and a sensor that alerts you when the filter needs changing.

Revlon Professional Magnet is designed to protect hair from pollution for vibrant hair colour. The professional in-salon formulas and at-home range help to repel pollutant particles.

Inspired by the hues of Miami, KMS StyleColor has added three new colours to its family – Inked Blue Nude Peach, and Velvet Berry. The spray-on shades deliver temporary colour that is waterproof.

Shine on

What a gem

Brass be-gone

Created with the colour glossing trend in mind, Schwarzkopf BC Bonacure UV Filter Color Freeze Liquid Shine improves manageability and boosts vibrancy. RRP £15.80

Designed for colour-treated hair R+Co Gemstone Color Shampoo and Conditioner preserves colour for up to 10 washes. The products contain vitamin E and sunflower sprout extract. From £29

Especially formulated for brunettes with lightened ends, the Matrix Total Results Brass Off Mask neutralises brassy tones while moisturising and protecting hair from breakage.

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N O W AV A I L A B L E A T S A L O N S U P P L I E S

C O N TA C T U S

CALL US TODAY

0844 3356 121

EMAIL US AT FURNITURE@SALONSUPPLIES.CO.UK

SEE OUR FULL RANGE SALONSUPPLIES.CO.UK

VISIT US BRAND NEW SHOWROOM Southampton Furniture Showroom, Bond Street, Northam, Southampton, SO14 5QA

INTERIORS STEPHAN’S TOP TIPS • Have a clear vision I trialled the multi-purpose concept in Italy first and knew exactly what worked and what didn’t. • Use recycled materials My creative director Alessandro, my dad and I created everything from scratch using re-imagined materials and furniture. • Have a contingency plan When I opened there were less plants than I wanted because money was short so my advice is to always have a back-up fund!

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX Glitch is a dynamic, multi-purpose space that features a salon, music venue, art gallery, kitchen, plant shop and events area

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FACT FILE Name: Glitch Address: Old Market Street, Bristol Owner: Stephan Vi Size: 120sqm Budget: £60K Staff: 10

ho would have thought the rise of the so-called ‘slasher’ generation, a breed of millennial who has more than one job such as a writer / DJ / filmmaker, would translate into a salon trend? Bristol’s Glitch is just that – a salon that has many roles. It serves up delicious Italian food, it offers clients the chance to purchase cacti and plants and it’s a cool venue where you can hear up-and-coming bands play, all while providing more ‘traditional’ salon services such as colour, styling and cuts. Owner Stephan Vi based the idea on a creative hub he set up 17 years ago in Italy. He proved a hair salon with a tattoo parlour, music stage and art gallery would be popular and set about taking the idea from Florence to Bristol. “I think that in the next few years we will see more places like Glitch,” explains Stephan. “The market is changing. As a society we’re moving from one thing to the next so a place that combines more than one activity will become the norm.” The salon in Bristol originally started out life as two separate premises – a comic book shop and a

stock room. “The shop was in a very bad condition when we arrived,” says Stephan. “I had to put in the new electric system from scratch, add in a new floor and knock down a wall so the two spaces flowed into one another.” Designed by Stephan and Glitch’s creative director Alessandro Frank Franco, the interior was based on Scandinavian design that has an industrial edge. White walls, simple wood and lots of greenery has led to a space that treads the path between industrial and natural. Bare brick walls with rough marks have been made into a design feature. The concrete floor is smooth and almost elegant looking but it still retains its industrial roots. The reception area has a big desk which holds an iMac for the salon’s online booking system and vinyl decks where a DJ plays during the day. As live music is such an integral part of the salon, there is a permanent fully equipped stage, which hosts live bands and singers. The waiting area continues Glitch’s unexpected theme as it doesn’t contain a typical chair or sofa. An unusual table takes the prime position and houses a kitchen sink 87 / hji.co.uk

and a cactus. “It’s definitely a move on from the traditional salon waiting area with a sofa. We wanted it to feel more like a cafe,” adds Stephan. The opportunities for Glitch’s guests are endless – from a changing art exhibition by local artists to Italian food prepared by in-house eatery Grano Kitchen, while being surrounded by a jungle of plants and organic hair products that can be purchased and taken home. Glitch shows that salons are no longer just about trims, toner and root touch-ups. A brand that defies labels is certainly paving the way for a new breed of salon experience.

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

jobs.hji.co.uk/register

CAREERS

Lloyd Court

The Colour Director Lloyd applied for a job at seanhanna and moved to London to take it when he was only 16. He now runs the colour education courses for Skyler London What was your route into the hair industry?

When I was 15 I was given a school project about pricing around the UK. I researched hairdressers in London and seanhanna popped up. I fell in love with everything about the company and emailed my CV while I was still in class. After my interview, I moved to London and started my apprenticeship at age 16 at the seanhanna Wimbledon salon. I was offered a place on the L’Oréal Colour Specialist degree course and was selected to be the youngest member of the seanhanna creative team when I was 18 months into my training. Can you tell us about your role?

I am the colour director at Skyler London and along with my business partner Skyler Hanna, we ensure our team are well trained and knowledgeable on all things colour. One of my main responsibilities is running our internal and external education courses. I’m also a key member of our marketing team and help to support and build marketing strategies that increase brand awareness for Skyler London. What are the pros and cons of your role?

I love my job as I get to educate, grow and build our amazing team. I’ve been able to work with L’Oréal Professionnel on some truly incredible projects. The only downside is I never get home in time

for Silent Witness on a Tuesday night! What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

Find a mentor with the same aspirations and ideas as you. Social media has really helped to grow my career and Skyler London. We’re always encouraging our guests to tag us in selfies. The beauty of Facebook and Instagram is you can reach a worldwide audience, which means you can learn from them too. What challenges have you faced in your career so far?

One of the biggest challenges I’ve faced is being told I’m too young. Being an educator means teaching people twice your age and this can be quite daunting. My biggest tip for building confidence is to believe in yourself and your ability and don’t be afraid to ask for help. What’s your advice for someone who aspires to have a career like yours?

Find a salon that truly inspires you. I’ve been incredibly lucky to find a company that cares about everyone who works for them. Skyler has really helped to mentor and support me to become the hairdresser I am today. Be prepared to work hard and don’t complain about the jobs that are handed to you. Being a great colourist is all about practice so you must be 89 / hji.co.uk

willing to learn from your mistakes. When working on creative projects, you need to make sure you do your research and practice, practice and practice again! What are your favourite accounts to follow on Instagram?

My favourite accounts to follow on Instagram are Angelo Seminara (@seminaraangelo), Robert Lobetta (@robertlobetta), Tracey Cunningham (@traceycunningham1), Infringe (@infringemagazine), Edoardo Paludo (@edoardopaludo) and Jean Baptiste Santens (@jeanbaptiste.santens). What’s your styling philosophy?

Hair should always have an element of pretty. I think whatever style you are going for, it should make you feel good and should suit your client. I was taught that you shouldn’t be able to feel a good blow-dry on the scalp – I’ve taken this philosophy with me wherever I go. What’s next for your career?

I’m studying for my trichologist degree at the moment. This has been something I’ve been considering for a while and I felt it was the next step for me in my hair career. I will also be entering HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional this year and I hope to become a member of the Fellowship FAME Team.

RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

HIRING NOW IN ESHER AND LONDON HAREANDBONE.CO.UK

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

WE HAVE OPORUNITIES FOR PASSIONATE, TALENTED, CLINET DRIVEN INDIVIDUALS TO JOIN OUR AWARD WINNING TEAM. -

ESHER SURREY - STYLITS

LONDON W1 - RECEPTIONIST & SALON APPRENTICE

PLEASE SEND YOUR CV TO: RACHEL@HAREANDBONE.CO.UK

Hair Stylist in Cheadle An amazing opportunity to join our unique team has become available. Set in Cheadle, Cheshire, Bows and Brushes is a friendly community salon with hair precision and colour mastery at the forefront of our vision. Our knowledge and expertise is perfectly nurtured in our professional salon environment creating the perfect professional bond between team and guests of the salon. We pride ourselves on creating bespoke looks to each individual guest. Taking into consideration all aspects of their fashion and lifestyle to create their perfect look. You MUST be: + Passionate + Creative + Self driven + Confident + Friendly + Preferably an existing client base + Able to work flexible hours + NVQ level three trained + Outstanding communication skills

hji.co.uk/jobs

In return you will receive: + Commission programme + Career opportunities + Training with REDKEN professionals as a continuation of your hairstyling journey

If you feel you fit the bill, please do not hesitate to contact us today. Please email a copy of your cv along with a photograph of yourself and recent work you have produced to Jayne: bowsandbrushesuk@gmail.com

90 / hji.co.uk

RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376

Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team

We are Currently Looking for Young Hairdressers for Cut and Colour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mephisto Germany We are currently looking for a young stylist who excels within cutting and colouring. This role is specifically for a full time position. International teaching with Wella and Sassoon studios will also be required to be undertaken by the preferred candidate to develop their hairdressing skills to the highest level. Experience with hairdressing is preferred.

@HJI_Jobs

Please find a link of our website below for more details: https://www.mephistohandwerkstatt.de/the-spirit/ If you are interested in applying for the role, please send your cv to team@mephisto-handwerkstatt.de or call the salon on 0049 89346992

CLASSIFIED TOWELS

A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

Buy Direct Exceptional quality, competitive pricing: + 7RS TXDOLW\ WRZHOV &RWWRQ 0LFUR EUH DQG GLVSRVDEOH RSWLRQV LQ D ZLGH FKRLFH RI FRORXUV FKORULQH DQG EOHDFK UHVLVWDQW RSWLRQV DYDLODEOH + 'XUDEOH JRZQV FXWWLQJ WLQWLQJ FDSHV

Cut costs...not quality.

To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA

0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk

See us at Stand E2/F2 @ Professional Beauty Excel

91 / hji.co.uk

/Majestic Towels @majestictowels T: 0121 7739091 / 7720936 E: info@majestictowels.co.uk W: www.majestictowels.co.uk

CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: nicola.c@hji.co.uk

PROPERTY

Town Centre Shop TO LET

Addlestone area. Freehold Shop Premises with Hair Salon. Very Smart Ground Floor Lock Up Unit. £1,750wk. Five days. Retirement Sale. £320,000 F’hold (or £29,950 on Lease) Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £8,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Edgware / Mill Hill area, North London. Good Class Hair Salon. New Lease. £2,000wk. Owner retiring. £39,500 (or £460,000 F’hold inc 2 Bed Flat) Farnborough, Hants. Very Smart Hair / Beauty. Busy location. Parade. New Lease. Well fitted throughout. £2,000wk. Real potential for younger owner. Vendor retiring. £20,000 - Offers Invited Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 West Berks - few miles Newbury - High Class Country Town. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £2,000wk. Real scope younger owner. £18,500 Wokingham, Berks. Spacious Salon Premises. Town Centre. Suit Gents Barbers. New Lease @ £20,000p.a. No Premium (or £280,000 Freehold)

7 Warwick Street, Worthing, West Sussex, BN11 3DF

• Suit Hair Salon use • Nearby occupiers include HSBC Bank, Robert Dyas, & Debenhams • 1516 Sq Ft Approximately • New Lease Available • £20,000 Per Annum Contact Agents Michael Jones Commercial on Telephone: 01903 201212

Hair Salon For Sale Central London Location "Near Covent Garden" Established 20+ Years Huge computerised client base of over 10'000 + clients High Turnover & High Net Profit

For further queries please contact Richard 07968 470303 or Email info@hebe.co.uk

WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk

A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA

0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk 92 / hji.co.uk

SCISSOR SHARPENING

POSTAL & WHILE-U-WAIT SCISSORS SERVICE Professional Japanese hand sharpening

SCISSORS SHARPENING £18 CUSTOM NAME LASERING £18 inc. immediate return by 1st Class recorded delivery +£5 Next Day Delivery per order

Unit8 Hanover West, 161 Acton Lane, London NW10 7NB T: 020 8965 0585 www.dowa-international.com

CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

LEARN THE TRUE ART OF MALE GROOMING Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - The leading barbering expert. i Traditional barbering One day clipper cutting course

i Hot towel cut throat shaving One day course

i Barbering boot camp Four day course

PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk

HOT WATER SYSTEMS

Hot Water Systems

MADE IN ENGLAND

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Continuous hot water to washpoints Eliminates Temperature Fluctuations Economical to operate Unique “Superboost” for colour rinsing Hot Water at the lowest possible cost &DQ EH rWWHG DQ\ZKHUH \HDU *XDUDQWHH 6SHFLrFDOO\ GHVLJQHG IRU KDLUGUHVVLQJ ,QWHUHVW )UHH &UHGLW

FINDING OUT WHICH NHS TREATMENT FOR SEVERE HAND ECZEMA IS BEST, WE NEED YOUR HELP

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INTERESTED IN TAKING PART?

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GROUP

Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture

WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk 93 / hji.co.uk

Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/

INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens

T Avant garde “Cutting is my passion but I’ve always enjoyed experimenting with hair-up. This was made by twisting hair and tightly attaching it to the head. It’s difficult to describe the genre but you could say it’s ‘wearable’ avant garde.”

i z i n o K n Aki The creative director of HOB Salons and four times British Hairdresser of the Year winner, is best known for his cutting skills. Here are six of his most iconic images W Double act “This was all about sensuality, drama and style. The shoot was hard work and expensive as we had two models in every shot, which at the time had never been done effectively before.”

T Tribal style “This is one of my most brutal and tribal haircuts but every style has to be beautiful to somebody. It features one of my most trusting models – Elle. It was inspired by 1970s Sassoon with a modern twist and led to my fourth British Hairdresser of the Year win.”

X Integrity

SNatural movement

“I mused about the concept of truth and integrity in photographic work when I created this style. I decided to show the weft as opposed to pretending it was real hair. One of my all-time favourites, this collection led to my first British Hairdresser of the Year win.”

“Natural movement must always be explored – waves, frizz, dark roots, whatever it may be. Ask does it look good and does it make the model look beautiful.”

W Telling a story “I’m always looking for a story to inspire my collections. I feel like this could be a scene from an old movie where glamorous ladies get photographed in a small studio. A story helps the model to get into character and display the mutual vision of you and your photographer.” 94 / hji.co.uk

URGENT HELP FOR THE PLIGHT OF POLAR BEARS IF WE DON’T TAKE IMMEDIATE ACTION, POLAR BEARS COULD BE THE FIRST SPECIES TO BECOME EXTINCT DUE TO CLIMATE CHANGE

milk_shake have teamed up with Polar Bears International to raise money for these beautiful animals by producing a special pack containing our best selling products along with a free polar bear soft toy. ®

For every pack sold, milk_shake will make a contribution to this amazing charity, for the protection of polar bears, the good of our planet and for future generations to come*. ®

*in participating salons, while stocks last.

/ DISCOVER MORE AT: MILKSHAKEHAIRCARE.CO.UK / FACEBOOK MILKSHAKEHAIRUK / T. 01392 365177