HJ MEN SPRING 2019

What is the future of British barbershops?

SPRING 2019

| hji.co.uk/men

Apollo 2 Icon with Classic heelrest: head to heel forever iconic.

CONTENTS

SPRING 2019

e’re asking some big questions this issue, such as ‘what is the future of the high street barbershop?’ Although they are often said to be saving the high street, a new trend for barbershops and men’s salons opening in retail parks, supermarkets, and even spas, have left us wondering what direction the industry will take next. We got the experts to share their predictions on page 10. Elsewhere we’re asking how to create a logo that reflects your brand (page 16) and two business owners debate whether it’s better to have employed or self-employed staff on page 13.

If you’re reading this at HJ Live London, it’s great to see you! Enjoy the acts on the HJ Men Stage, in association with Wahl and remember to use #HJLive if you’re posting on social media.

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Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7360 Managing Director Mark Moloney Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7363 Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7369 Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7377

Charlotte Grant-West Editor HJ Men

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7366

NEWS

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7373

5 Meet Keune’s new barber director and OSMO’s new ambassador

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7367

FEATURES 8 Translate AW19 fashion week trends 10 The future of barbershops and men’s salons 13 The Big Debate: Employment vs self-employment 16 How to brand your barbershop

Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk 0203 841 7376 Event Manager Sharon Webb sharon@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7374 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7365

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INTERIORS 14 Take a look inside The Wild Hare in Tooting

Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk 020 7351 0536

FASHION

Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk 020 3728 9062

17 Desmond Murray: Black and white beauty 20 Daniel Rymer: Power and strength 23 Toni & Guy, Ilford: Done vs. undone texture 26 IDHair art team: On balance 28 Fowler35 Art Team: High and low 30 Fit for Vikings: Nordic charm

Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk 020 7351 0536 www.hji.co.uk M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza 535 Kings Road, London SW10 0SZ

PRODUCTS Hair: Keera K Sira Styling: Krishan Parmar Photography: Tony Le-Britton All work submitted to HJ is also liable to appear on the website and in other related market products.

HJ is unable to return images sent in for publication.

33 Tempt your clients with this month’s new launches

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INTERVIEW 34 Barber Backchat with James Beaumont SPRING 2019 / 3

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

WITH THE BEST IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY

SAVE THE DATE Register your interest to enter at www.hji.co.uk or contact Becca Painter at 020 3841 7365 MONDAY 25TH NOVEMBER 2019 JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR HOUSE, PARK LANE, LONDON W1

#bha19

NEWS

Keune’s New Barber Director om Chapman has been named Keune’s new global barber director. The Lions Barber Collective founder will be managing the barbering and men’s hairdressing education for the brand in 80 countries. Tom exclusively told HJ Men: “It’s such a privilege to be Keune’s first global barber director.

I’m so excited to be working for a family-run company that is so forward-thinking.” Tom has spent the past 18 months launching the J.M Keune 1922 men’s range to the global market as a global ambassador. He’s appeared in countries such as Russia and the US. In his new role, Tom will be creating a men’s education curriculum. “It will be a three-tier programme, starting with fundamentals. I want to make men’s hairdressing simple and accessible – as well as providing the perfect foundation for Keune’s high quality styling products.” Tom’s role will also include developing new products, creating collections and shooting campaigns.

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OSMO’S NEW MAN OSMO has announced Justin Carr as its new ambassador.

Unofficially known as the ‘baller’s barber,’ Justin recently coiffed the hair of the England team football players during the European Championships and the World Cup. He said: “I have lots of ideas for how we can work together to grow OSMO’s reach with a new audience, such as clients with textured hair. I’m also looking forward to getting involved with education and taking part in live show demonstrations with the brand.”

Gould Barbers’ Rapid Expansion Plan he barbershop chain Gould Barbers recently opened 10 shops in 10 weeks as part of its partnership with Tesco.

Brothers Darran and Leigh Gould have gone from strength to strength since their relationship with the supermarket began in 2016. “We’re now close to having 100 self-employed barbers working for us,” Darran explained. “Only 18 months ago

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we had about 15 barbers working for us.

We’re going to be opening a minimum of three shops by March 2019, which is when the Tesco financial year ends. From March 2019 to March 2020 we will be looking to open stores in 25 to 50 new locations.”

Read more about Gould Barbers in The Shape of Things to Come feature on page 10.

SPRING 2019 / 5

NEWS

Meet the New Lions The Lions Barber Collective, an initiative founded by Tom Chapman to raise awareness about men’s mental health, has announced its new 2019 ambassadors and the UK regions they will represent:

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Tommie McGuckin – Scotland Sam Wall - Newcastle Lesley Macbain – Liverpool Connor Evans – Coventry Darren Birch – Warwick Jac Ludlow – Wales Dan Davies – London Ken Hermes – London Stacey Ayles – Weymouth Mark Loftin – Exmouth

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WHERE DO MEN GET THEIR HAIR CUT? The Bluebeards Revenge has conducted a survey, which has found the majority of men are heading to barbershops to get their hair and beards styled. The brand suggested the improved standards and skills of barbers are making them the go-to stylists for men. Men’s hairdressers and unisex salons are still receiving a substantial share of the traffic, followed by mobile barbers and 8% of men are cutting their hair at home.

6 / SPRING 2019

Barbers Receive Starring Role he British barbering and men’s hairdressing industry played a prominent part in a new documentary about the hairdressing industry. Produced

by Sally Brooks and barber Gabriel Maciuca, The Journey to My Destination aims to raise the profile of hairdressing as a viable career option for young people. It included stars of the barbering world such as Simon Shaw, Wahl UK global artistic director, Joth Davies, owner of Savills and Frank Rimer, owner of Thy Barber.

Frank told HJ Men at the film’s premiere: “There’s been a battle between barbering and hairdressing but finally the two sides of the industry are starting to respect each other for their different skill sets.”

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TRENDS

Do you struggle to make catwalk trends wearable for your clients? Work through our flow chart to inject some Fashion Week cool into your salon or barbershop

How adventurous is your client?

To see more AW19 men’s trends, go to hji.co.uk/m en

They’re…playing it safe

They’re…ready to go wild

Do they have short hair?

Are they open to colour?

EMMA GIBNEY: C2H4

No

CHARLES JEFFREY

Yes

Yes

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

OLIVER SPENCER

No

Long n’ layered

Heartthrob hair

Wearable colour

Fringe festival

Long hair was a runway success.

At the Oliver Spencer show, The Wall Group’s Johnnie Sapong for Electric Hair enhanced long hair with waves, texture and shine. Meanwhile the Brendan O’Sullivan international creative team accessorised French braids with ribbons made from shredded waste at Christopher Raeburn.

Coined ‘heartthrob hair’ by US website The Cut, this style is a wavy, mid-length cut that tumbles into a side or centre parting. Often styled to look damp, fine examples were seen at Christopher Raeburn (thanks to Brendan O’Sullivan for Go247) and at e.Tautz where Toni & Guy’s Dexter Johnson crafted a longer version.

Colour for guys was a big trend at London Fashion Week Men’s but the hues were muted like the dirty pinks and greens seen at C2H4. Created by men’s hairstylist Michael Harding using Pulp Riot colour (which will be available in the UK later this year), the hair was styled with R+CO products to create a punk vibe.

Cutting in a sweeping, micro or midi fringe is a great way to shake things up for your client.

The Charles Jeffrey show went above and beyond in terms of creative expression. A 1920s Eton crop was created by John Vial for Revlon Professional and a slicked down kiss curl finished off the look to perfection.

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e p o a f h S

gs t W

Retail Intelligence Business, Local Data Company, 2019 figures

e all know the barbering industry is booming – in the past 12 months alone the number of barbershops on Britain’s high streets has risen by 414 units, according to The Local Data Company. Along with vape shops, the barbershop is the fastest growing retailer on the high street with 5,792 barbers at last count*. The big question now is whether this growth will continue. The trend for the traditional high street barbershop could be set to level off as barbers start to set up shop in more unusual spaces such as retail outlets, coffee shops and spas. In fact, there are now 238 barbers in shopping centres, which is an increase of 11% in the past 12 months*. HJ Men spoke to those in the know about the new direction that barbering is taking and how to stand out from the crowd in an era of increased competition.

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e om

10 / SPRING 2019

o C

From supporting the high street and opening in supermarkets to diversifying with grooming treatments and barista-crafted coffee – British barbering is heading in lots of exciting directions

in Th

The

BARBERSHOPS

BARBERSHOPS

Chris O’Sullivan, director of Grizzly’s Male Hair Salon, is opening a branch in the new South Lodge Spa in West Sussex.

“South Lodge Hotel is known for its amazing service, high quality and outstanding facilities. At Grizzly’s we share the same brand values so when they approached us with a deal to open a branch in the new South Lodge Spa, we couldn’t say no. Our existing high street barbershop, which opened 18 months ago, offers a high-end alternative to the walk-in barbershops in our area. I can see the new spa branch as a template for future Grizzly’s spa salons, which is why I’m operating the high street business and the spa business as separate entities. Being at South Lodge Spa will give us a good footfall as our clients will be a mix of spa members, people staying at the hotel on business and wedding guests (there will be roughly 80 weddings a year). When we open in March, we’ll tailor our menu to fit our clientele and offer groomsmen packages and luxury beard grooming, as well as the usual trims and shaves. I predict that barbering will continue to boom but we will see barbershops opening in new and exciting spaces – not just on the high street.”

The prediction: Barbershops will embrace the power of the supermarket concession Darran Gould runs Gould Barbers with his brother Leigh and the duo have 18 concessions in Tesco retail outlets nationwide.

“There can be negativity around big supermarket companies but we haven’t experienced anything other than support from our partnership with Tesco. We still own our company and Tesco backs our growth and provides us with locations. For example, in 2018 they gave us 100 locations to visit, we selected our favourites and opened 10 shops in 10 weeks. Our Tesco barbershops are much busier than a high-street shop because of the condensed footfall from the supermarket. I do understand it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. For example, we struggled to get some barbers to work for us when we first opened because they thought it might not be cool enough for them. I believe an ‘everyman’ appeal is the secret to our success. Throughout my barbering career I’ve had customers who are young, old and everything in between.

Barbershops who purely cater to a ‘cool’ client are only getting a small share of the market. Gould Barbers caters for everyone. We have been likened to Costa Coffee – we have a recognisable brand and everyone is welcome – I think that sums us up very well.”

MAN.OJ

The prediction: The spa-based barbershop will become a trend

“Throughout my career I’ve had customers who are old, young and everything in between. Barbershops who purely cater to a ‘cool’ client are only getting a small share of the market. Gould Barbers caters for everyone.

We have been likened to Costa Coffee – we have a recognisable brand and everyone is welcome.”

Darran Gould, Gould Barbers The prediction: Men’s hairdressing will become increasingly popular again Ross Charles, owner of Ross Charles Hairdressing in York, has been working as a hairdresser since the early 1990s.

“I don’t think the barbershop bubble will burst but it might start to level off. Fades and line-ups are still popular but they have been around for several years. Of course barbers are adding their personal touches but as a whole I don’t believe there are many truly new barbering trends. Men’s hairdressing on the other hand has changed completely. It’s moved further away from barbering and the popularity of long hair has played a big part in this growth. At Ross Charles Hairdressing we have a barbering section and a men’s hairdressing area. We keep them separate from each other. We have hired members of the team who are solely barbers because we saw the sector growing but we still invest in our men’s hairdressing services as we recognise their importance.”

SPRING 2019 / 11

BARBERSHOPS

THE FUNDAMENTALS The prediction: Barbers will have to diversify to stand out from the crowd Manoj Solanki runs a salon/coffee shop in the City of London called Man.Oj Coffee & Cuts.

“The men’s grooming industry has grown over the years and the competition has doubled. This made me think about what I could do to stand out. The enthusiasm for coffee has grown alongside the boom in barbering so I thought why not blend the two together? Every client at Man.Oj who has a hair service, receives a complimentary hand-roasted speciality coffee. Five years ago there were three other barbershops in the area and it’s now increased to six. On the other hand, there are fewer hairdressing businesses so we have opened a women’s salon downstairs to fill that demand. The continuing increases in rent and rates, especially in London, means barbers and hairdressers will have to look at more cost-effective and innovative ways to do the job they love with the least amount of overheads.”

The prediction: Businesses will have to personalise their services

Hilary Hall, NHF chief executive, shares three ways you can stay on the right track in an era of increased competition

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Think carefully about your prices Many barbershops charge low prices, which rely on high volumes of sales but these are difficult to achieve when there are competing businesses up and down the high street. In theory this can send barbershops into a spiral of ever-decreasing prices.

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Pay employees the right wage The National Living Wage is the hourly rate that employees aged 25 and over must be paid by law.

Take note: it will increase to £8.21 in April 2019. The National Minimum Wage has several rates depending on whether the employee is an apprentice, in the first or second year of their apprenticeship and also their age (the rates go up on key birthdays as well as in April each year).

“The enthusiasm for coffee has grown alongside the boom in barbering so I thought why not blend the two together?

Every client at Man.Oj who has a hair service receives a complimentary hand-roasted speciality coffee.”

Jim Shaw, owner of Essensuals Billericay, believes the industry has to tap into the Consider a cash-only policy wisely ultra-personalisation trend.

There is evidence to suggest that “There’s much more to men’s hair than some barbershops are operating clippering. We give a full consultation to cash-only businesses to save our male clients taking into account their money and work under the hair and their skin, as well as allocating Manoj Solanki, Man.Oj radar. Do not ignore the them a full 45-minute appointment to responsibilities you have as a ensure we have given a thorough service. It business owner and a tax payer. allows time to answer any questions they “At Ruffians we never rush. We carefully may have and to recommend suitable select our spaces and recruit people locally at-home hair and skin care products. for each store. Each Ruffians has a very I believe barbering and men’s hairdressing will continue to specific personality so central recruitment and mass expansion grow as the 21st century man becomes increasingly aware of his doesn’t work for us. Our store managers consider whether a appearance. It’s important to stay ahead in this industry and offer person will fit in with the destination. I believe there is room services before your competitors. Men no longer want to just for many different incarnations of barbershop as there are many come into the salon for a haircut, they want the full experience – different types of client. Some people like the ease of a to get their hair cut, their beard shaped, their eyebrows trimmed walk-in-and-wait service but equally there are many who enjoy the and potentially to have a facial too.” stability of a relationship with one barber they can book regularly and count on. I think it is important to be able to meet the needs The prediction: of whoever walks through your door rather than being elitist.

Essentially, our stores are a refuge from the hustle and bustle of Slow and steady growth will win the race Denis Robinson, creative director at Ruffians, sings the praises of day-to-day life so growing steadily on the high street is where we the traditional high street barbershop. see our future.”

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DEBATE

Two business owners discuss the pros and cons of having self-employed staff in their barbershop and salon FOR SELF-EMPLOYED STAFF

AGAINST SELF-EMPLOYED STAFF

“Over the past 25 years I’ve tried various approaches to running my business. I’ve found offering self-employment works best for me and our barbers. It’s what they want and in a competitive recruitment environment you need to give them reasons to stay.

The primary reason an owner would choose the self-employed route is motivation. If you have a team who understand the more clients they have, the more money they get, they will not only power through clients but it also ensures they give the best service to keep them coming back. Barbers also want to be busy and not just because of the money – they don’t want to be bored. We invest heavily in marketing so the barbershop is always busy.

Barbers choose self-employment because it also gives them greater freedom. We offer flexibility and shorter shifts. We also have long opening hours – 8am to 8pm and we’re open on Sundays. This means our team work 7.5 hours a day and they choose what days to work and whether to come in early or late.

We have a relaxed approach about the team swapping shifts amongst themselves and our dress code is similarly laid-back.

We ask them to wear black and we provide branded items to protect their clothes. However we can’t enforce a dress code with self-employed staff.

At the end of the day, it’s almost always about the money. We have a tax adviser who helps with the financial side so we know we’ve made our business as easy and profitable as it can be. At Jacks of London the cost of a cut is £24 which is higher than most other barbers and we pay our barbers a high percentage of that.

The result? We both earn more.”

“I run a profitable and successful business that is built on strong foundations and relationships. My approach is simple: in order to manage, influence and empower my team, I need to employ them. To gain competitive advantage, I believe that salons must show a united front: I feel that self-employed individuals will work to different goals and to different standards.

In the 20+ years that our salon has been in business, we’ve identified that our focus on development and education is a key element to our success. We have weekly team meetings, monthly appraisals and reviews and regular team building exercises. The team are given opportunities such as being involved with industry events, the chance to develop their careers as educators and access to technical education. We invest in our team to continuously improve the levels of service and I don’t think this would be possible if we rented out chairs.

It could be very easy to rent out space as there is less commitment required in terms of time and financial investment. But I would find it difficult to achieve our company goals if I had a salon full of stylists who worked the hours that suited them, who weren’t developing their education and who were more focused on their individual goals rather than our brand goals. Client expectations are high and we have adopted a uniformed approach to satisfy the demands of today’s clientele.

I know there are other companies that have been really successful in adopting the self-employed approach but my personal fear would be setting myself up for dissatisfied clients, mixed brand messages and a high staff turnover.”

“I’ve found offering self-employment works best for me and our barbers. It’s what they want.”

“My approach is simple: in order to manage, influence and empower my team, I feel I need to employ them.”

Sue Whitehead, founder and managing director of Jacks of London group

Christian Wiles, owner of Christian Wiles Male Grooming SPRING 2019 / 13

INTERIORS

The Wild Hare in Tooting has undergone a miraculous transformation from a damp, health-and-safety nightmare to a mid-century male grooming mecca ith a pool table, locally brewed a tight budget so they designed the salon beer and a wide range of themselves. “Luckily we are both artistic magazines, such as Monocle and we know our target demographic. We and The Economist, it’s easy to worked with the original features of the see why The Wild Hare is the go-to place shop rather than against them,” explains for men looking to reset and recharge for a Georgie. For example, the duo kept the few hours. original parquet flooring and mid-century Owners Georgie Wynes-Devlin and features but introduced a colour scheme Hayley Kemm combined their 25 years centred on navy, tan, grey and pops of of experience to open their own shop yellow to make it more contemporary. in Tooting Broadway in South West This modern vision also extends to the London last year. The aim ethos of the salon. The was to create a space that Wild Hare is a place where felt both luxurious and FACT FILE getting a haircut is viewed relaxed. Despite finding as more than a necessity. the premises in poor Name: The Wild Hare “We wanted a space Address: Mitcham condition with damp where gents can come to Road, Tooting, walls, no plumbing and escape the daily stresses London outdated electrics, they of London life,” explains Owners: Georgie felt an instant connection.

Georgie. “The opportunity Wynes-Devlin and It’s easy to see why – the for men to relax and get Hayley Kemm property has floor to pampered, without having Size: 800 square feet ceiling windows and a to clock watch is so rare in plus basement beautiful statement this day and age.”

Staff: 10 front door.

When refitting a salon Budget: £25,000 Georgie and Hayley had or barbershop local

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14 / SPRING 2019

connections can prove invaluable. “We became friends with a local carpenter who made us a bespoke reception desk to fit our style and space. It even holds a fridge where we keep beer,” Georgie says. Hayley’s dad made the shelving and pool table and the mid-century furniture was sourced on eBay and Gumtree, while the art that features in the shop was either donated by clients or locally-sourced.

The Wild Hare knows the importance of first impressions, which is why passers-by can see an intriguing vintage drinks cabinet from the window. It showcases spirits and displays antique razors and shaving equipment. It’s this old-school charm (and possibly the craft beer) that encourages The Wild Hare’s clients to come back time and again for more than just a short back and sides.

INTERIORS

GEORGIE AND HAYLEY’S TOP TIPS • Don’t always rely on shop fitters We found local builders who quoted thousands of pounds less. Get at least five quotations.

You’ll be surprised how much the prices vary.

• Look into energy-saving boilers We use the Salon Aquaflow water system which uses 40% less energy and saves us money.

• Create a buzz When the work is being carried out, print out posters to put on the windows to tell passers-by when you’re opening and why they should be excited.

SPRING 2019 / 15

DEEP DIVE Starting out

The design process

“Our logo originally featured on a Savills t-shirt. Back in 2013 we didn’t have an official uniform yet but I wanted us to wear something branded.”

“I found our logo designer on Instagram. I came across a page called @parlor_tattoo_ prints (now @the_parlor_workshop) ran by a designer called Quyen Dinh. Her style resonated with me and I contacted her asking her to design our t-shirts. She used one of my photos from the American Crew Face Off 2012 competition (pictured right). The model was a customer of ours and the cut is classic Savills.”

The meaning “I feel the logo represents our brand – it’s classic but still looks edgy.

The fact that one of our clients was the inspiration for the logo is proof that Savills will always be customer-led.”

The next step “Quyen also did the artwork for our product brand Copacetic. The logo was also inspired by a customer (pictured above).

It appears on the labels, lids and our social media page (@copaceticgent).

Barber branding Joth shares his words of wisdom

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A logo has to inspire. Our previous one was too simple and text-based and I knew it wasn’t right from the beginning.

The public reaction “Our logo resonates with our barbering peers and the public. When it is copied people message us thinking we will be offended. I think it is confirmation that we are doing something right.”

Savills Ac Joth now ru ademy ns a Barbering C Bespoke ou three-day in rse – a tim course set in ate barbershop the . Places are limite savillsbarbe d, visit rs.com academy to /shop/ find out more.

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Use Instagram to find a designer. Look for someone that matches your style.

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Don’t give up. Our designer initially declined to work with us due to her workload but 24 hours later she emailed to say she had reconsidered because she loved the look and feel of our barbershop.

16 / SPRING 2019

Joth Davies of Savills Barbers in Sheffield reveals the story behind his logo and shares his tips for creating strong branding

FASHION

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL Desmond Murray was crowned Men’s Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional.

Here he reveals the inspiration behind his winning collection SPRING 2019 / 17

FASHION

What inspired your shoot?

I was influenced by a series of Charlotte Tilbury images I saw in the Selfridges beauty hall. They were classic but looked really modern at the same time. I thought – ‘I want to create images like that’.

Why is it called Bailey?

By chance I styled my models in a roll neck jumper and shot the images in black and white. When I saw the pictures they reminded me of David Bailey’s portraits and basically the Bailey collection was born from that.

How did it feel to win?

I went in with the frame of mind that I had gone in with nothing and could come out with nothing. To be honest I’ve been nominated for British Hairdressing Awards before and I’ve photographed so many finalists over the years I’ve actually lost more awards than I’ve won. On the night I was up for London and Men’s Hairdresser of the Year and I photographed seven other collections. All of the awards went by and nothing. But then it came to the men’s category and I heard my name!

What’s your process for creating a collection?

It’s very relaxed, I rarely go into a shoot thinking that it’s going to be my British Hairdressing Awards’ collection. I regularly do pop-up shoots with model agencies so my collections often spring from that. At the shoots I want to get great images and the agencies want some great headshots for their models so it’s a win-win situation.

18 / SPRING 2019

Did you have a vision for the hair you wanted to create?

Do you have any budgeting strategies?

I wanted dramatically different cuts on a range of men. In the collection there’s long hair, Afro hair and fringes. I’m inspired

by Sally Brooks’ approach to creating a collection. She says she doesn’t meet her models beforehand – she wants everything to evolve naturally and feel low-pressured.

You need to think about your collection as an investment. Unfortunately, if you are shooting to enter awards you need professional models and that means a healthy budget. But you will produce a collection of images that will build your brand, so you can use them for social media, your website and your portfolio.

What are your tips for aspiring entrants?

What’s next for you?

Remember it’s not about winning, it’s about the journey. Don’t shoot a collection to win. It will feel forced. Put together a collection that reflects who you are. You will start losing your identity if you’re thinking about winning.

Winning has opened so many doors for me. For example, I’ve been asked to be a guest of honour at a Fellowship event and I’m in talks with a company in Italy (although I can’t say anything more yet)!

FASHION

Hair: Desmond Murray Make-up: Jo Sugar Photography: Desmond Murray SPRING 2019 / 19

FASHION

STRENGTH AND

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FASHION

“My Fortitude collection is all about strength in the face of adversity – the model’s dishevelled curls are protected by sharp and structured edges.

It’s all about hard outer shells. I took inspiration from Grace Jones – a person who truly symbolises fortitude.”

Daniel Rymer

FORTITUDE Daniel Rymer’s new collection is a homage to 1980s icon Grace Jones

SPRING 2019 / 21

FASHION

Hair: Daniel Rymer Hair assistants: Fran King, Lauren Spiller, Drue Mock and Sam Hutchinson Make-up: Danny Williams Photography: Abi Galatia

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FASHION

TOWN AND COUNTRY Sharp city-inspired cuts merge with undone country styling

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FASHION

“The collection, titled Rich Boys Gone Rogue, was inspired by boys who have left their country roots in search of the bright lights of the city. It was all about teaming classic cuts and sharp tailoring with edgy models and undone styling.”

Keera K Sira, Toni & Guy, Ilford

Hair: Keera K Sira Make-up: Roseanna Velin Styling: Krishan Parmar Photography: Tony Le-Britton 24 / SPRING 2019

FASHION

SPRING 2019 / 25

FASHION

Balancing

Act Shape, colour and cut are in perfect equilibrium

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FASHION

“In the same way that artists achieve depth in paintings, we have used shapes to section the hair while cutting and colouring. This technique has created visual effects that are individual to each model.”

Lyndsey Ford, IdHAIR educator

Hair: IdHAIR art team Make-up: Louise Bruun Styling: Sofia Astby Dock Photography: Sidsel Clement

SPRING 2019 / 27

FASHION

DIAL IT UP Darren Fowler’s latest collection is a tale of two halves

28 / SPRING 2019

FASHION

“Working with each individual model, we wanted to show the versatility of the hair, starting with a softer style and then ‘dialling it up’ to create a stronger and more defined look.”

Darren Fowler, Fowler35 creative director

Hair: Fowler35 art team Make-up: Vassilis Theotokis Styling: Kelechi Angela Amadi Photography: Leonardo Bornati

SPRING 2019 / 29

FASHION

SO SCANDI-LOUS The latest shoot from Fit for Vikings celebrates Nordic style

30 / SPRING 2019

FASHION

“The collection was influenced

by Scandinavian grooming trends – such as thick beards, long hair and rugged styling.

The dramatic backdrop and the colours found in Norway’s nature inspired both the hair and styling.”

Fit for Vikings art team

SPRING 2019 / 31

FASHION Hair: Fit for Vikings art team Styling: Tenneille Chapman and Mannen i Gata Photography: Anthony Harrison

32 / SPRING 2019

PRODUCTS

THE HOT LIST

Long-haired lovers

Turn back time

Sense and sensitivity

Designed specifically for medium to long hair, American Crew Fiber Grooming Foam contains fibres that deliver volume and lived-in texture. £12.90

Decorate your barbershop with Reuzel Clocks. It is made to look like the iconic Reuzel Red Pomade and can be used as a retail stand to display Reuzel products.

Redken Brews After Shave Balm contains soothing aloe vera and is perfect for the fifty per cent of men who report post-shave sensitivity.

RRP £18.50

Tool up

Three in one

Groomed to perfection

The Dark Stag Leather Barber Tool Roll keeps scissors, razors and combs protected. It features different-sized pockets so all of your tools have a home. £32+VAT

La Biosthetique After Shave Face & Beard Care soothes and moisturises skin, while shielding it from the elements. It also keeps beards groomed. RRP £19.50

Available exclusively from Aston & Fincher, Grievous Bodily Hair is a range of 11 hair, face and body grooming products powered by natural ingredients. RRP £11.95

King of the kit

Texture shortcut

Flawless fade

Trim beards with ease with the Hercules Sagemann Special Beard Cutting Comb. It has a short and slim design for sculpting beards and ‘taches. £8.72

Joico Structure Shaper Creamy Paste is a unisex, lightweight product that creates soft texture and is almost undetectable in the hair. RRP £16.90

Andis has introduced the ProAlloy Fade. The clipper delivers cutting precision from #00000 to #000 and is ideal for creating those much-requested fades. £89 SPRING 2019 / 33

INTERVIEW

Wahl’s Barber of the Year, James Beaumont tells us where you’ll find him at a party and who he would trade lives with for a day

H

ow would you describe yourself in three words? Kind,

creative, professional but fun.

Sorry, that’s five words!

What has been your proudest moment? It’s hard to choose between

opening my first barbershop and being crowned Wahl Barber of the Year.

I always love seeing the images at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored

by Schwarzkopf Professional. The research, passion, thought and creativity that goes into the collections is mind-blowing.

What’s the last gift you received? A bespoke patterned

dicky bow tie. My sister Laura is a fashion designer and she made a vintage-inspired bow tie for me.

If your barbershop was on fire, what’s the one thing you’d save?

dry and natural look so 1922 by J.M Keune Premium Clay and Keune Blend Salt Mousse are my go-to products. I also love to use a blow-dry aid to add volume and make styles last longer.

Where would we find you at a party?

I have so many important things in my barbershop but as long as everyone was safe I can always rebuild or purchase what’s important.

Everywhere if I had a drink or two in me!

Who is your biggest inspiration? My father

What would you be if you weren’t a barber? I think I would have gone into

What’s your biggest achievement so far?

photography. I’ve always been a creative person. I tried plumbing once but that didn’t work out.

The whole of 2018 – from making the cover of Modern Salon with the Keune USA team to presenting at the Keune True Beauty show.

What hair product can’t you live without? Most of my gents want a matte,

What hair image makes you most proud? It would have to be my winning

images in the Male Fashion Collection (professional photography) category for the NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year 2017 competition (image below). I’m very proud of that haircut.

What’s your favourite piece of art? I think

all barbering and hairdressing photography is art.

34 / SPRING 2019

What’s on your bucket list?

I love travelling.

I used to be a big backpacker and there are still a few places I would love to tick off, like the Amazon in Brazil.

Quick fire round Cats or dogs? I have both, but dogs get you out in the fresh air Chocolate or vanilla ice cream?

Chocolate Dining out or eating in? Dining out City pad or country retreat? Country retreat Invisibility or ability to fly? Ooh good one, flying please!

Plain or spicy food?

Spicy, but not too hot

Richard Beaumont (pictured left) – he’s 75 and he still cuts hair.

His journey from being a decorator to being inspired by Vidal Sassoon and going on to own four salons really inspires me.

If you could trade lives with anyone for just one day who would it be? I would

like to be a royal for the day – maybe Prince Harry because I’d like to see how his day goes.

BARBER INSURANCE

DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR BARBERS £6,000,000 public, products and treatment liability Annual insurance from £37.50 a year for self-emplyed barbers and from £132 a year for barber shop owners

For more information visit www.hjdirect.co.uk/barber or contact the team on 0345 605 8670 or at info@hjdirect.co.uk

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