HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER November 2019
£5|November 2019|hji.co.uk 1 1
9 770143 691236
THE BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS FINALISTS AND NOMINEES
AW19/Inspire Bridging the gap between runway and real life, Essential Looks continues to captivate hairdressers and clients each season, with directional catwalk trends translated into wearable salon looks. Schwarzkopf Professional Global Ambassadors Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison are the creative forces behind Essential Looks, and together they spend hours scouring the catwalk to translate them into haircuts, colours and styles that form the Essential Looks trends and, in turn, shape the work created by stylists across the world.
Over 40 Essential Looks collections have been created since 1997. This season it’s all about colour! Colour opens a world of beautiful inspiration – the chance to imagine, contrast, create and transform. As diversity and authenticity remain the world’s biggest stories, Schwarzkopf Professional’s 2:2019 Essential Looks Collection strikes the perfect balance, with trends that will appeal to both lovers of high fashion and those who love simple, wearable, everyday-accessible looks.
The Creating Tomorrow’s Colour Today Collection has taken inspiration from the extremes (and everything in between), to bring you three new trends interpreted by some of the world’s most visionary hair artists.
This is a collection for fashion chameleons, all over the world…
trend 1
trend 2
trend 3
Colour Clash
Urbaganza
Texture Tension
Grown-up confidence and glamorous spirit, Color Clash packs a full-body colour punch in a fable of modern sophistication…
The new authentic captures the cool urban mood. Urbaganza reinvents the classics with a slick, high-shine edge...
The spirit of fashion can take us to so many places but somehow it feels at its most wonderful when it goes large. In this story, shades are truly bold but clashes are glamorous, silhouettes are strong but there’s a spirit of rich, fluid movement, of luxury, of the understated and lightly-worn strength.
Cool, certain, nonchalant; Urbaganza celebrates a unique sense of self, a reinvention of an urban attitude. Norms are shaken up, classic forms are fearlessly reimagined, unexpected combinations take the lead. A simple shape is punked-up in patent and a clean silhouette lives luxe in leather. Lines are sharp and high-shine rules!
Introducing #raincolor, Schwarzkopf Professional’s exciting new colour technique that delivers a shimmering illusion of volume or texture within the hair. This trend is all about transparency, simplicity, power in purity, nuanced naturals, pastels and crisp whites…
Sometimes less is more when it’s all about making an understatement to be heard under the noise. This is a story of structured simplicity, integrity and timelessness; crisp white shirting cuts away into transparent panels and ashy hair looks supernatural, yet magically dappled in textured light.
Following the launch of Essential Looks each season, Schwarzkopf Professional UK hosts Inspire; a shoot where stylists come together to present their own interpretations of the trends. Equipped with a model each and access to professional makeup, styling and photographer Chris Bulezuik, the hairdressers are mentored through their two-day shoot by Tyler and created three finished looks inspired by the three trends on one model. This year, the five talented stylists were Karly Whittaker from Sarah Hodge, James Earnshaw from Bad Apple, Laura Truscott from Rick Roberts Hair, Issey Hyde from DNA Art Space and Natalie Garcia Sanz from Joseph Ferraro Hair.
Natalie Garcia Sanz @ Joseph Ferraro Hair OSiS+ Long Hair Texture Craft
Laura Truscott @ Rick Roberts Hair OSiS+ Session Label Moulding Paste
James Earnshaw @ Bad Apple Hair OSiS+ Volume Up Booster Spray
Karly Whittaker @ Sarah Hodge OSiS+ Session Label Volumizing Mousse
Issey Hyde @ DNA Art Space OSiS+ Bouncy Curls Gel Oil
Natalie Garcia Sanz @ Joseph Ferraro Hair OSiS+ Thrill Fibre Gum
Laura Truscott @ Rick Roberts Hair OSiS+ Upload Volume Cream
James Earnshaw @ Bad Apple Hair OSiS+ Blow & Go Spray
Karly Whittaker @ Sarah Hodge OSiS+ Session Label Super Dry Flex Hairspray
Issey Hyde @ DNA Art Space OSiS+ Session Label Miracle 15
Natalie Garcia Sanz @ Joseph Ferraro Hair OSiS+ Freeze Strong Hold Hairspray
Laura Truscott @ Rick Roberts Hair OSiS+ Upload Volume Cream
James Earnshaw @ Bad Apple Hair OSiS+ Session Label Powder Cloud
Karly Whittaker @ Sarah Hodge OSiS+ Soft Texture Dry Conditioner
Texturise long hair
NEW OSiS+ LONG HAIR TEXTURE STYLING Celebrate natural hair texture & movement. - Invisible non-overburdening texture styling - Natural look and feel - Bendable firming without stickiness www.schwarzkopfpro.com
CONTENTS
104
November 2019 News
06
Industry News This month’s news round-up
12
HJ Reports Wella TrendVision Awards 2019
14 18 22
HJ Reports Unite Global Session HJ Reports HJ Live North HJ Reports Get Ahead of Hair Loss
Business
23
Christmas profit tips How to attract clients this Christmas
26
The Business of Balayage Sally Brooks reveals how to make money from the popular colour technique
Salon International
35
Salon International Review All the news from Salon International 2019
The history of curls A timeline of curly hair through the ages
Inspiration
65
Fashion The British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional finalists and British nominee images
HJ Men Trends 102 Men’s Male grooming news, trends and two exclusive fashion collections
Regulars
30
Membership offer Win a Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe kit
110
The Hot List The products to stock in your salon
113
Interiors Step inside the salon that won this year’s Salon Design Award
117
Careers Get to know the It’s a 10 founder
122
Through a Lens Pat Wood shares her all-time favourite creations 3 / hji.co.uk
18
RUSSELL EATON ART TEAM
32
MYLES LEWIS
Features
EDITOR’S LETTER Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360
46 43
Managing Director Mark Moloney
Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363
Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369
Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377 Intern Lydia Halsey Editorial Contributers Kate Woods and Maria Weijers
Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366
Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373
Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367
Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365
Events and Sales Administrator Melinda Park melinda@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield
We l c o m e
T
he HJ team have spent three jam-packed days at Salon International taking in all of the sights and sounds of what’s to come in the months ahead. If you missed the biggest show in hairdressing, we’ve included an official review in this issue – from the Salon Live Shows and Seminars to the innovations on the show floor and business advice – we’ve rounded it all up for you from page 35 onwards. Straight after Salon International we took the HJ stage and Modern Barber stage up to Manchester for HJ Live North and we’ve compiled our summary of the hair trends to watch on pages 18 and 19. If that wasn’t enough, we’re now packing our bags and putting together the final touches for our HJ Live Ireland show in Dublin and we’ll include a report from the show in our next issue. Can you believe it’s less than a month to go until the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional? In this issue we’ve included all of this year’s finalists and the British nominees beginning on page 65. We will also be publishing all of the collections from each category every day online in the run up to the awards night on Monday 25 November. We’ll be starting with the regional categories and finishing with all nine British nominee collections. We’ll see you next month when we’ll know the winners of the British Hairdressing Awards 2019!
Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376
On the cover: Hair: Issey Hyde at DNA Art Space for Schwarzkopf Professional Creative direction: Tyler Johnston Make-up: Claire Evans Styling: Jamie Russell Photography: Chris Bulezuik
Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061 4 / hji.co.uk
INDUSTRY NEWS Australia Launches Charity Fellowship Australia has launched an education platform called Hair Raiser Fellowship to raise money for the hairdressing industry. The initiative brings together hairdressing artists in a closed Facebook group forum with an extensive library of business and creative education. There are 70+ videos within the group and those who donate AUS$110 will be given one-year access. The aim of the platform is to educate hairdressers and to raise money for Beyond Blue, which works to address mental health issues and to help an Australian hairdressing family who have been affected by suicide. For more information on the launch visit hairraiserfellowship.com.
Proposed Plans Post-Brexit
SHUTTERSTOCK
The government has announced plans for future legislation post-Brexit with 26 bills in the pipeline on topics including pensions, tips, immigration and the environment. There are plans to introduce a statutory Code of Practice on tipping to replace the current voluntary code. It is intended to make sure tips are distributed fairly and without deductions. Pollution measures could also be introduced to tackle air pollution, litter, minimise waste, increase recycling and manage water supplies.
NHF Britain’s Best Winners The NHF Britain’s Best Competition 2019 was carried out in partnership with HJ for the first time this year and the winners were announced on the HJ stage at Salon International on Sunday 6 October 2019. Anyone could enter the five categories, which ranged from Ladies Commercial Fashion Look to Bridal Hairdresser of the Year. The finalists
competed in the competitions area at the show for 35 minutes in front of a live audience and an expert panel of judges. NHF/NBF CEO Hilary Hall said: “This year’s Britain’s Best did not disappoint – the level of talent from across the UK competing against each other for the top spot was outstanding. The day couldn’t have been more inspiring so we hope to see even more competitors hit the floor next year.” Go to page 56 to see this year’s winners and go to nhf.info/events/ competitions to find out how to enter next year’s NHF Britain’s Best competition.
Entries Open for Fellowship 2020 Teams
T
he Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Colour Project and Project X teams are now open for 2020 applications. Meanwhile the new ClubStar Art Team 2020 members have been chosen. Led by new team leader Karoliina Saunders, the ClubStar Art Team 2020 is as follows: • Sam Arnold, Strangeways • Jack Anthony, KH Hair Nottingham • Jordy Barlow, Karoliina Saunders Hair Design • Darcey Clarke, Ashley Gamble • Ella Gray, CHAIR salons • Andrew Plester, Hare and Bone • Lee Patrick Devlin, Paul Watts Hair • Emy Roccabella, Danilo Hair Boutique Go to fellowshiphair.com to apply for the Colour Project and Project X teams.
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SPONSORED BRANDS
THE UK’S NEW COLOUR MANAGEMENT TECHNOLOGY The Hair and Beauty Charity Rebrand
T
he Hairdressers’ Charity is now called the Hair and Beauty Charity. The charity already assists those working within the hair, barbering and beauty industries so the new name will help to increase its visibility within these sectors. The charity, which dates back to 1853, helps industry professionals who are struggling financially due to ill health. Co-president Samantha Grocutt said: “This rebrand is a natural progression for us since we became a nationally recognised charity in 2016.”
Hairtribe.TV Launches Free Education Online platform Hairtribe.TV is now offering its educational content to hairdressers for free. Hairtribe.TV features pioneering hairstylists and colourists from across the globe demonstrating how to apply innovative techniques. The tutorials are aimed at experienced hairdressers and are translated into six languages – English, French, German, Italian, Spanish and Polish. The multilingual website is currently available in 32 countries. “Hairtribe’s mission has always been to improve hairdressers’ lives through education. We have decided to make Hairtribe’s videos free to the world so that we can make a positive impact on the hairdressing community,” says Steve McManus, co-founder of the platform. The online channel was co-founded by Perry Patraszewski and Steve McManus co-directors of the Blue Tit salon group and Hektor Kowalski, co-director of Anamorphic.
ish has launched a new colour V management technology that is designed to make it easier than ever for salon owners to profit from the colour business in their salon. Leading colourists helped to develop the system in a bid to eliminate waste, ensure colour is mixed with a consistent formulation and to manage colour stock. Vish says the average salon pours 25% to 40% of its colour stock down the drain. The benefit of the Vish system is colourists can use the Vish Bluetooth enabled scale, which is connected to an iPad to capture and store every formula for every client. Once the colour has been applied the bowl is reweighed to measure how much waste is left over and the formula is readjusted to remove
any waste. This means the saved Vish formula will enable colourists to recreate precise formulas in the exact amount at the client’s next appointment without any excess product being thrown away. The system keeps track of every colour service performed throughout the day so any changes or add-ons that will affect the customer’s bill are communicated in real-time via a digital ticket so no revenue is missed. Plus, owners and managers have access to accurate data so they can manage their colour business more efficiently and can help with the planning, coaching and purchasing of stock and pricing. For more information go to getvish.com or send an email to tom.bt@getvish.com.
PHOREST WELCOMES NEW ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR AND APP
I
rish salon software company Phorest has announced Yogi Parmar as its new strategic accounts director. Phorest CEO Ronan Perceval said: “We are thrilled to welcome Yogi to Phorest and with him on board, we are gearing up to go after our target market and continue to grow across the UK.” Yogi brings a vast amount of industry experience to the ever-growing team at Phorest. He was previously the managing director for the Francesco Group (Southern Division) where he ran six salons and set up a training academy providing education and apprenticeships. Based in the UK, Yogi will be instrumental in building relationships across the industry and managing key accounts for Phorest’s premium salons. Phorest also recently 7 / hji.co.uk
launched an app that gives salon owners a fully customised digital platform to stand out from the competiton. For more information go to phorest.com.
A NEW ERA IN HAIR STYLING 8LI 'E']PMWW ȉȉȉ MW XLI JMVWX LMKL TIVJSVQERGI GSVHPIWW WXVEMKLXIRIV GSQFMRMRK KVSYRH FVIEOMRK 2MGVS -IEXMRK 2EXVM\ǝ XIGLRSPSK] ERH I\GITXMSREP GSVHPIWW TIVJSVQERGI XS HIPMZIV XLI YPXMQEXI WXVEMKLXIRMRK I\TIVMIRGI [LIXLIV ]SYƶVI MR XLI WEPSR FEGOWXEKI SV SR WIX 5S[IVIH F] PMXLMYQ MSR XLMW GSVHPIWW WX]PMRK XSSP [MXL YPXVE JEWX LIEX YT ERH MRWXERX LIEX VIGSZIV] TVSZMHIW I\GITXMSREPP] WQSSXL LEMV [LIRIZIV [LIVIZIV ]SY YWI MX
www.babyliss.co.uk +SV QSVI MRJSVQEXMSR IQEMP MRJS%FEF]PMWWTVS GS YO
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CO R U O Y
• ADD HYPE PIGMENTS TO COLOR, CARE AND STYLING TO TAKE SALON TREATMENTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL. • CREATE INSTANT COLOR DEPOSITS, SIMPLY CHOOSE YOUR BASE, DROP AND APPLY. • A TRULY CUSTOMIZABLE COLOR, USE LESS DROPS FOR PASTEL SHADES OR MIX MULTIPLE DROPS TO CREATE A BRAND NEW TONE.
#BELIEVETHEHYPE
FOR HYPE PIGMENT SYSTEM EDUCATION VISIT OUR SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS.
CRAZY COLOR
@CRAZYCOLORLTD
Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news @hji
@hairdressersjournal
Hairdressers Journal
@hjinteractive
Social Shout Out
EXHIBITION MANIA!
@nickirwinhair
October is exhibition month at HJ HQ with Salon International kicking off three weekends filled with educational shows. We travelled from the ExCeL in London to Manchester EventCity for HJ Live North and then flew over to Dublin for HJ Live Ireland. To see everything that happened behind the scenes, during set up and glimpses of the artists on stage take a look at our IG Highlights.
Nick’s feed is definitely up there with the coolest in the industry – scroll back as far as you like as it’s jam-packed with his unique and inspirational work. Akesha, digital editor
The Finalists Takeover
@jenna.marie.shafer I met this awesome educator at Salon International and you can’t help but smile when you scroll through her feed filled with gorgeous braids and updos. Laura, HJ editor
ollowing the excitement of the Fsponsored British Hairdressing Awards, by Schwarzkopf Professional gallery at Salon International you can now see all of the finalists’ work online! Every collection from each category is currently being uploaded daily on our website starting with the regional categories and culminating in the nominees for British Hairdresser of the Year. Prepare to be inspired.
STAY UP-TO-DATE The countdown to the biggest night in hairdressing is now on. If you can’t join us on the night, make sure you’re following us on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook where we’ll be announcing the winners in real-time. 11 / hji.co.uk
@karoliinasaunders Karoliina lit up the HJ Live North stage with this directional hairstyle – and there’s plenty more where that came from on her feed. Charlotte, content editor
HJ REPORTS
THE UK AND T IRELAND’S GOT TALENT
he Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2019 UK and Ireland Final was held at The Roundhouse in Camden, London. Hosted by TV presenter Vernon Kay and hairdressing legend Patrick Cameron the night attracted more than 800 of the industry’s finest.
Wella Professionals TrendVision 2019 was filled with live performances, outstanding hair looks and worthy winners from the UK and Ireland
12 / hji.co.uk
The Hair Shows Guests enjoyed three hair shows starting with a bespoke performance by the Sassoon Academy team to celebrate 65 years in hairdressing, which focused on mono tones infused with pure pigmentation. Collaborate featured the colour spectrum with Akin Konizi, Charlie Taylor, Darren Ambrose, Darren Lacken, Dom Capel, the Lara Johnson Lifestyle team, Josh Goldsworthy, Leonardo Rizzo and Sharon Cox showcasing models sporting all colours of the rainbow. Celestial was the final show, which was delivered by Wella Professionals’ technical director Robert Eaton. This show included futuristic hair, textures, shapes and embellishment.
HJ REPORTS
THE WINNERS: THE UK WINNERS: COLOR ARTIST OF THE YEAR: • GOLD Heather Mackenzie, The Style Bar • SILVER Thomas Frear, Spirit Hair Design • BRONZE Joanne Roe, KH Hair Leicester CREATIVE ARTIST OF THE YEAR: • GOLD Sophie Kinloch, McIntyres Salons • SILVER Brandon Messinger, The Hair Movement • BRONZE Elaine Sneddon, Joseph Ferraro Hair
THE IRELAND WINNERS: COLOR ARTIST OF THE YEAR: • GOLD Clare Kenny, Flatiron • SILVER Niamh Coleman, Niall Colgan Hairdressing • BRONZE Olivia O’Keeffe, Pelo Hairdressing CREATIVE ARTIST OF THE YEAR: • GOLD Leandro Santos Santana, Decode Hair • SILVER Zara McIntyre, House of Colour • BRONZE Denise Phillips, Pelo Hairdressing
The Competition The UK 2019 TrendVision Color Artist of the Year was given to Heather Mackenzie from The Style Bar and Sophie Kinloch from McIntyres Salons was awarded the UK Creative Artist of the Year. Clare Kenny from Flatiron was awarded the Ireland Colour Artist of the Year and Leandro Santos Santana from Decode Hair was given the Ireland Creative Artist of the Year accolade. All four winners will be invited to the International TrendVision Award Creative Retreat in Seville, which is taking place in March next year. Guests and members of the public were given the opportunity to have their say and vote for their favourite look from all of the finalists in this year’s competition. Thousands of people voted for their overall favourite image and both a UK and Ireland winner were named the People’s Choice Award winners on the night.
UK & IRELAND WINNERS: MALE GROOMING • GOLD Dexter Dapper Johnson, TONI&GUY Bedford Street RUNWAY • GOLD Stephanie Darbyshire, TONI&GUY Deansgate PEOPLE’S CHOICE UK AWARD WINNER: • Gjorgi Sokolov, Headmasters Richmond PEOPLE’S CHOICE IRELAND AWARD WINNER: • Vitor Pessoa, Maven Hair Studio 13 / hji.co.uk
HJ REPORTS
WE ARE FAMILY!
It was celebrations all round in San Diego as Unite marked its sweet sixteen birthday at the sixth Global Session
T
he Unite Global Session was held in sunny San Diego, not far from the company’s headquarters. Andrew Dale, the brand’s founder, told the crowd gathered at the Balboa Theatre: “People said I was crazy when I started Unite but here we are 16 years later.” The two-day event brought together a mix of editorial and avant garde styling as well as barbering and on-point cutting. The brand’s creative director Gary Baker as well as Karine Jackson, Melissa Timperley, Narad Kutowaroo and Matthew Curtis were flying the flag from the UK. The editorial styling segments were packed with nuggets of advice from the artists on stage as they coiffed their model’s hair into red-carpetworthy looks. “Get your basics right,” advised Karine as she pulled together a beehive style using techniques she learned from Patrick Cameron. She used the hair as padding to create a seamless look. The dressed hair revolution Gary said your prep and product choice are an essential part of creating any look, especially as he believes the industry is moving towards more dressed hair. “Is it to do with the current economic climate or are hairdressers just tired of beachy waves and balayage?” he pondered as he created his first look of the
event. He used tools from the new Unite electrical range – the Unite Pro-System Styling Iron and 3-in-1 Curling Wand. Both tools launched at the event and will be available in the UK via Salon Success in 2020. Cutting central A variety of cuts and techniques were on show throughout the event. From Melissa Timperley’s salonfriendly and highly wearable cuts with reverselayering for a weightless feel to Paul Stafford’s high-fashion looks. Commenting on his daring cuts Paul said: “Someone online described my cutting as brutal but I like to call it raw.” For the barbering segment, Unite’s male barbering brand GO 24.7 took centre stage. The on-trend men’s styles were created by GO 24.7 artistic team members Manny Padron, Matt Stark and Elle Majors. The event’s compères, David Drew and Kenny 14 / hji.co.uk
Gibson, asked the team: How do you get male clients to buy products? Matt said: “Just be honest. If I can’t live without it, then how can you?” The rule book was thrown out of the window for the avant garde segments of the event. An array of textures and colours were used to create artistic looks. Shaun McGrath, the Australian Hair Fashion Awards Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year impressed the crowd with an aquatic style that required a step
HJ REPORTS
ladder to complete. The audience were given the chance to learn about a cause close to the Unite family’s heart – Shelter to Soldier. This US-based charity unites 9-11 survivors suffering from PTSD and traumatic brain injury with rescue dogs who are trained to be psychiatric service dogs. All the proceeds from Unite’s Doggy ‘Poo shampoo and the brand’s new detangler are split between this charity and the San Diego Humane Society. A mix of creativity and charity is the core of the brand and it was clear what matters most is making everyone feel part of the Unite family. 15 / hji.co.uk
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL’S TRANSLUCENT PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR FOR A NEUTRALISED FINISH & EXTREME LUMINOSITY
BOOSTED IN COOL REFLECTS For a neutralised finish
+50% LIGHT REFLECTION* For extreme luminosity
4X MORE TRANSLUCENCY* Made with specifically designed balanced range of dyes
* VS MAJIREL CORE RANGE
NO COMPROMISE BETWEEN NEUTRALISATION & LUMINOSITY
ALL HAIL MANCHESTER Monday 14 October may be over but the amazing looks we saw on stage will be relevant for clients in the months to come. From award-winning artistic teams to up-and-coming artists the audience was treated to an abundance of hairdressing talent. Here are the four key trends we spotted during the show.
X Big hair, don’t care Big textured looks took over the stage across both days. Whether the artists were working with wefts and clip-ins or the models’ natural texture, big brushed out looks proved this season your clients will want their hair to make a statement. 18 / hji.co.uk
RUSSELL EATO
Live North 2019, which HJ took place at Manchester EventCity on Sunday 13 October and
N ART TEAM
HJ Live North at Manchester’s EventCity featured the perfect mix of award-winning artists and fresh names making their HJ stage debut. Here are the key trends to watch in the coming months...
T Raise awareness The hairdressing industry prides itself on raising awareness about wider issues and giving back to clients and other hairdressers. This was more evident than ever at HJ Live North this year. Anne Veck put on a show-stopping performance with her model’s artistic interpretation of the damage currently being done to our planet. While, Stewart Roberts and the Haircuts 4 Homeless team closed the stage on Monday by speaking about their charity and how you can get involved in future.
RESSING
HAIRCUTS 4 HOMELESS
SPECTRUM HAIRD
HOOKER AND YO
UNG TEAM
RUSSELL EATON ART TEAM
BELLA A CO JORDANN
HOOKER AND YOUNG TEAM
S Oh be wave! This summer’s beachy waves trend might be in decline but it’s great news for clients experimenting with other textures and styles. We saw a plethora of soft curls and waves on the stage from dressed and glossy to naturally teased out so it’s clear your clients will still be requesting these looks in SS20.
SPECTRUM
HAIRDRESSIN
G TEAM
MICHELLE GRIFFIN
GEORGIA BELL, PHILIPPA LEE AND CRAIG PARKINSON
JAY BIRM IN
GHAM
ANNE VECK
HARRIS AND FOX
ALL Y MCDOUG AND PADD ANDY SMITH
KAROLIINA SAUNDERS
T Ponies please! Updos are the classic party style so it’s no surprise they were such a popular look on the HJ stage this autumn. The variations of ponytails spanned from bubble ponies to high Ariana Grande-style updos and accessorised looks.
HJ REPORTS
19 / hji.co.uk
© Robert Eaton
s n o i t a l u t a r Cong
T TO THE TRENDVISION AWARD 2019
UK & IRELAND WINNERS! The TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Final took place on
the diversity of beauty and the colour spectrum, using the
30th September in the iconic Roundhouse, Camden. The event
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was hosted by TV favourite, Vernon Kay and hairdressing legend,
by Wella’s Technical Director, Robert Eaton, who presented
Patrick Cameron, and showcased some of the UK and Ireland’s
futuristic hair, textures and shapes with strong and
most impressive hairdressing talent. This year there was a fresh
powerful silhouettes and incredible colour innovation.
new look to the iconic event, which included new staging and hair demos during the cocktail reception. Guests enjoyed a sit
The 2019 TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final winners,
down dinner and three stunning hair shows by some of the
and People’s Choice Awards were then announced and invited
world’s greatest hair artists.
to the stage. The UK and Ireland Gold winners from Creative Artist of the Year & Color Artist of the Year will go on to Seville,
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Spain for the International TrendVision Award Creative Retreat.
by the legendary Sassoon Academy team celebrating 65 years
The Gold winners from Male Grooming and Runway will also
of Sassoon, ‘Collaborate’ by seven Wella Guest Artists (Akin
be in with a chance to join the Creative Retreat in Seville, as
Konizi, HOB Academy; Charlie Taylor, from Charlie Taylor;
images from their winners’ shoot are entered into a further
Darren Ambrose, D&J Ambrose; Darren Lacken, Crow Street
global competition. Thank you to everyone who entered
Collective; Dom Capel, Lara Johnson Lifestyle; Josh Goldsworthy,
and congratulations again to the UK & Ireland winners!
Goldsworthys and Leonardo Rizzo from Sanrizz) celebrating
The Uk Winners COLOR ARTIST OF THE YEAR
GOLD
SILVER
Heather Mackenzie, The Style Bar
CREATIVE ARTIST OF THE YEAR
BRONZE
Thomas Frear, Spirit Hair Design
GOLD
Joanne Roe, KH Hair Leicester
SILVER
Sophie Kinloch, McIntyres Salons
Brandon Messinger, The Hair Movement
BRONZE Elaine Sneddon, Joseph Ferraro Hair
The Ireland Winners COLOR ARTIST OF THE YEAR
GOLD
SILVER
Clare Kenny, Flatiron
CREATIVE ARTIST OF THE YEAR
BRONZE
Niamh Coleman, Niall Colgan Hairdressing
GOLD
Olivia O’Keeffe, Pelo Hairdressing
Uk & Ireland Winners MALE GROOMING GOLD
RUNWAY GOLD
GOLD
SILVER
Leandro Santana Santos, Decode Hair
Zara McIntyre, House of Colour
BRONZE Denise Phillips, Pelo Hairdressing
People’s Choice Winners UK
IRELAND
Gjorgi Sokolov, Headmasters Richmond
Vitor Pessoa, Maven Hair Studio
GOLD
Stephanie Darbyshire, TONI&GUY Deansgate
WellaUK
Dexter Dapper Johnson, TONI&GUY Covent Garden
@WellaPro
@WellaHairUK
#WellaTVA
#Trendvision2019
HJ REPORTS
HAIR LOSS 101 This year’s Get Ahead of Hair Loss event in London was educational, informative and dispelled the myths surrounding hair loss
G
et Ahead of Hair Loss 2019 saw experts from the fields of dermatology, trichology and hairdressing gather at the Royal Society of Medicine in London. Founded by Dr Sharon Wong, a leading consultant dermatologist and hair expert, the event educated professionals and consumers on all types of hair loss and explored its psychological and physical effects. The speakers Highlights from the day included hair transplant surgeon Bessam Farjo speaking about the lack of regulation in the hair transplant industry and Daniel Galvin’s wig expert Gary Price discussing the state of wig provision in the UK. Plus, Philip Kingsley trichologist Zoe Passam explained what to do as a hairdresser if you spot hair loss on a client in the salon. The Afro hair session and men’s hair loss session provided dedicated advice for specific types of hair loss. The Afro hair session in association with Project Embrace, explained the science behind the texture of Afro hair, debunked myths on hair care and featured a Q&A panel discussing common issues and styling solutions. The men’s hair loss session in
association with Manual, looked at the causes and treatments for men’s hair loss and explored why men find it so hard to talk about it. Psychologist Dr Alex Mizara chaired a panel discussion about the psychology of living with hair loss. It featured TV personality Michelle Heaton who spoke about her menopausal hair loss experience, blogger Perry O’Bree discussed his male pattern baldness and 16-year-old Imogen King shared her experience of losing her hair while doing her GCSE exams. The takeaway message Get Ahead of Hair Loss founder Dr Wong was keen for attendees to dispel the myths surrounding hair loss. She exclusively told HJ: “A lot of people have returned for their second year, which is really encouraging. People clearly still feel there is more to learn and this type of education is needed. The topic of hair loss is shrouded in a lot of misinformation and we want to ensure that people in a potentially vulnerable position aren’t misled.” Hairdressers Journal International is proud to be media partners with the Get Ahead of Hair Loss event. 22 / hji.co.uk
According to the NHS, eight million women experience hair loss and hair thinning at some point in their lives.
SHUTTERSTOCK
BUSINESS
4 Ways to Cash in This Christmas Clients of all ages are eager to show off a new cut and colour for the festive season. Follow these tips to attract new clients while keeping your existing ones satisfied Introduce a new service Wella Professionals has launched the No Strings Attached Colour Service, which is a simple and affordable option for clients who want a quick yet noticeable colour transformation. The service is an ideal way to suggest colour to clients who are either colour shy or would like to end the year with a bang by experimenting with the latest new colour trend. Wella Professionals’ technical director Robert Eaton says: “It’s all about healthy-looking hair as we get to winter, particularly at Christmas time. People want high impact shine and they want something that’s really easy and quick to do.” He adds: “Younger clients don’t visit the salon as often anymore. We might see someone every 12 weeks or sometimes longer.” Robert believes this service could get these clients back into the salon on a monthly or six-week basis.
Create a bespoke client package Everyone wants to feel special, especially in the lead up to Christmas so why don’t
you create a bespoke package tailored to your clients. A student package for example, could be advertised as a way for young people to de-stress from university or college life or a mum and daughter package could be presented as a gift idea for a mum or daughter before or after Christmas. Phil Smith of Smith England has worked with other lifestyle brands to make the salon more of a destination throughout the Christmas season. He says: “This has included nail and make-up artists who have come together to work with me for a package. This year, we are creating hair extension packages that include a complimentary restyle if a client books a full head application in November.”
Tap into the naturals trend With so much competition on the high street it can be difficult to find ways to stand out. Clients are increasingly concerned about the welfare of the planet and the products they are putting onto their scalp so it would be wise to make your salon more sustainable and to promote how you are offering the gift of giving back to the planet this Christmas. 23 / hji.co.uk
You could make your salon more sustainable by recycling products, considering ways to cut your water usage and stocking cruelty-free and vegan options for your clients. Gina Conway says: “It’s essential to offer an attractive environment to draw new clientele into your salon for their Christmas prep. Clients are aware of the very real environmental issues we’re facing versus the overt over consumption associated with Christmas. Young people in particular are more interested in experiences than ‘stuff’ so by offering a sustainable atmosphere you can appeal to that ethos to grow your clientele.”
Tag a friend Social media is the ideal way to attract clients, especially younger ones into your salon this Christmas. You can do this by encouraging existing clients to post their new looks on their Instagram feed and asking them to tag your salon and a friend in the post. If you really want to be savvy you could tell them the friend who is tagged and the existing client will both be able to get a discounted hair cut when the friend books their first appointment in your salon. Jamie Stevens says: “Christmas really lends itself to Instagram and Facebook so get started early and tease some party looks and services along with messages to existing and new clients that they will need to book early. If you want to target a specific clientele, make sure the clients you post are a similar demographic. Invest in a ring light for your salon so clients can take great selfies and post the pictures for your own channel as well as theirs.”
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MAKE FIRST-TIME COLOUR SHINE Follow these simple steps to transform the colour and condition of first-time colour clients or those wishing to experiment using Wella Professionals’ 10-minute No Strings Attached Colour Service
your colour and pre 1 Choose shampoo the hair.
2 Section the hair.
ROBERT’S TOP TIP: Take a 3 clean, dry colour brush after you’ve finished your colour application and use it to blend the roots of your two chosen colours.
Mix and apply your colour 4 (1pt Koleston Perfect ME+, 1pt Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel
for between 5-10 5 Develop minutes.
Developer and 1pt INVIGO Post Color Treatment).
The essential products: If you would like to introduce the No Strings Attached Colour Service to your salon you will need: • Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ • Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9%/6vol Developer • Wella Professionals INVIGO Post Color Treatment
24 / hji.co.uk
– there is no need to 6 Rinse shampoo or condition.
Formulations Formula A: • 10g 7/75 • 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer • 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment Formula B: • 30g 5/75 • 30ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer • 30ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment
The No Strings Attached Service Colour Menu ned This menu is desig nt wa o wh ts en for cli e a quick, affordabl ent and low commitm e colour servic First Timer Upgrade your look with a low r commitment colou service. Test the Trend with Offer a new look – t en low commitm 1 13 m fro se choo different shades. Cool Blonde Neutralise those unwanted tones without exposing natural warmth. Refresh lour Add shine and co d an hs gt to faded len th ends after a regrow n. applicatio
For more information about the No Strings Attached Colour Service contact your Wella Professionals Representative and follow @wellahairuk on Instagram. Discover the products at uk.wellastore.com. To learn more about this business boosting service contact your nearest studio: London: 0203 650 47 00, Manchester: 0161 834 26 45 and Dublin: 0035 314 160 900
25 / hji.co.uk
BUSINESS
The Business of Balayage The balayage trend is here to stay so British Hairdresser of the Year sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, Sally Brooks shares her tips for making a healthy profit from the low maintenance colour technique
What business challenges do salons with a large balayage clientele face? When clients say balayage it’s important not to mistake the word for looking natural. Our clients are in our chair because they want to feel and look expensive. Balayage is a technique that is different on every client. It’s personal and made to suit the client. Balayage could be Parisian, it could be California statement ribbons, it could be root-to-tip sunkissed or just a few light pieces. There are many avenues and endless results we can create. The technique is freehand so the colour will grow out softer, but it still comes with maintenance if the client wants the tone to last and the condition and shine to hold. I advise balayage clients to come back every four to six weeks for a glossing service to keep the tone and shine. Four weeks later, I would recommend a sprinkle service with a few pieces to brighten or darken to keep the contrast.
super-modern for blondes, but also for more low maintenance clients who may only see us for cuts.
The balayage client service menu
What colour techniques do you predict will be popular in 2020?
Depending on the client’s needs we offer services to top-up their colour between appointments:
There is a huge move towards colour blocking techniques – think 1990s and early 2000s with a twist as seen on Dua Lipa, using a twotoned technique to create impactful colour. Hot roots is also a trend with statement regrowths and colour pops as seen on Billie Eilish.
How will the balayage trend evolve in 2020? Balayage is not a trend – it’s a service that’s here to stay and that’s because we can tailor make our techniques to suit any client that walks through our door. For 2020 low maintenance becomes high maintenance so I’ll be using Majirel Glow as the perfect lip gloss for the hair to keep balayage feeling glossy and fresh.
How can salons use the naturals colour trend to grow the business?
Why should balayage clients be encouraged to come into the salon regularly?
Natural is now and it’s tomorrow – it’s how we are living and how the world is moving forward. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Majirel Glow for example, is changing the colour game as it’s a range that can suit every client. It’s the brand’s first ever translucent permanent colour that offers neutralisation and luminousity. It’s great for refreshing our balayage clients but it’s also ideal for a client who shys away from colour. The results are natural and organic – it’s not a heavy saturated colour that you would expect from a permanent colour range. You can also use it with trend-driven clients as the nude palette is
It’s important we don’t mistake balayage clients for being low maintenance. More lived-in, organic-feeling colour often means the client is a regular at the salon because she wants to look expensive. The benefits of a balayage client coming to see us every six weeks as opposed to six months means we can keep the hair in its best condition. We use Majirel Glow as a glossing service to revamp or neutralise the tone – this way we are constantly in control of keeping our client’s hair palette modern and giving them a colour that will be loved wash after wash. 26 / hji.co.uk
• Sprinkle of colour – This could include babylighting a halo section through the top to add shine and texture to the hair. • Face framing – Focusing on freehand painting around the hairline to create a pop of brightness through the front. • Glossing – To add shine, tone and neutralise unwanted colour. • Zone toning – Working with melting two tones with two levels of contrast to create a gradient of colour. It’s a great technique to create seamless colour results and dimension in the hair. • Backwash balayage – To enhance a natural base giving one to two shades of lightness with a quick express technique.
Sally on using her British Hairdresser of the Year award in the salon: “Awards are a great way to gain new clients. It’s also brilliant for regular clients to see their chosen salon is at the top and stays at the top and the team love talking about it. The British Hairdresser of the Year award sits on the front desk and our regular, loyal clientele love hearing about what all of the team do outside the salon.”
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LONDON EXCEL LONDON 10 -12 OCTOBER 2020 PRESENTED BY
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JOIN US IN Register your interest now for 2020 Earlybird tickets www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
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HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG ART TEAM PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL YOUNG
2020
MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities. Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.
BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win a Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe kit worth £176 he Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Tcreate range provides everything you need to signature blonde looks.
Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.
BlondMe is the first bonding colour and care brand designed to deliver on-trend blonde perfection safer than ever before and it is the only professional expert brand dedicated to blondes. Schwarzkopf Professional understands blondes require customised colour and care solutions to achieve and maintain blonde results.
Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY
One new HJ Member will win a BlondMe Kit worth £176, containing: • BlondMe Clay Lightener • BlondMe Premium Lightener • BlondMe Premium Developer • BlondMe Bleach & Tone • BlondMe Keratin Restore Bonding Shampoo and Mask
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For more information go to schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk.
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
SPONSORED BY
Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65612 November 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DE. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
30 / hji.co.uk
CURL S JUST GOT MORE
POWE RFUL
Explore our professional range at all good wholesalers nationwide
CURLS
START
Present day
1920s X The Eton Crop
In 2019 it’s cool to be woke and awareness has crept into more areas of society.
Women’s hairstyles were short, sharp and styled. Whether you were rocking a Marcel Wave or sporting an Eton crop – it was all about a slick curl.
SUBRINA KIDD
HH: “Diverse social media role models have formed networks of like-minded followers and brands are finally launching more inclusive product ranges.”
2000s T Brazilian Blow-Dry Craze
SHUTTERSTO
HH: “The treatment wasn’t as simple as frizz-fearers were led to believe. Some early treatments contained chemicals like formaldehyde and the process could be timeconsuming with unpleasant smells.”
CK
The Brazilian blow-dry was heralded as the holy grail for curly girls.
SHUTTERSTOCK
X The Natural Hair Movement 2.0
HH: “Short hair was a controversial choice in the 1920s as it was seen as unfeminine. Women that did dare to go short were regarded as bold, rebellious and independent – just like actress and dancer Josephine Baker. Her trademark spit curls on each cheek added a cartoonish femininity to her cropped hair.”
CURLS ALLOWED Curls have been coiffed, relaxed, slathered in chemicals and now, with the rise of the natural hair movement, embraced. Here’s a 100-year history of curls with The Hair Historian Rachael Gibson SHUTTERSTOCK
1990s X R&B Divas It was all about heated tools in the nineties, thanks to R&B curl stars such as Mary J Blige and Destiny’s Child. HH: “The early 1990s was an exciting time for product development. Although professional products were available, they were not of the same quality that we demand today. As clients turned up the temperature to create curls at home, hair health suffered.”
32 / hji.co.uk
1984 X Ouidad Salon Opens Ouidad began creating products specifically formulated for curly hair with an emphasis on caring for curls rather than straightening or chemically altering the hair structure. Today many women find it easy to manage their hair by identifying their specific curly hair type – an idea popularised by Ouidad in the 1980s. The Ouidad range is now available in the UK, distributed by Wonderful Brands.
CURLS
1938
1940s
X Denman is Born
T Veronica Lake Waves Long and glossy, everyone wanted the waves of Film Noir actress Veronica Lake. HH: “During a photoshoot, a strand of Veronica’s hair kept falling across her right eye. It became her signature style and was emulated by US women – until World War II struck and the US war department declared the hairstyle too dangerous to be worn for work in factories.”
SHUTTERSTOCK
In 1938 driven by a desire to help his sister style her beautiful curly yet unruly hair, John Denman Dean created a revolutionary styling brush, now known as The D3. Denman is still innovating – the brand’s Power Paddle launched this year exclusively at Salon International and speedily but gently detangles curls.
1950s S Hollywood Curls From Marilyn Monroe to Elizabeth Taylor, an array of girls with curls starred in the lead roles of Hollywood movies. HH: “Although heated hair tools had been around almost since time began, hot rollers as we know them became popular in the 1950s. In 1959, Sicilian inventor Julian Rizzuto created a fast-drying bristle brush roller which gained popularity worldwide – and that company would go on to become Conair.”
1980s T Jheri Curl
SHUTTERSTOCK
HH: “The Jheri curl was advertised as a low-maintenance wash and wear style for Afro hair. It was a lengthy treatment and expensive to upkeep, not to mention damaging. It also gained notoriety for staining anything the hair touched.”
1970s T D.I.S.C.frO Donna Summer and Diana Ross inspired a generation to wear their hair big and brushed-out. HH: “From big disco curls to long hippie lengths, many of the most significant beauty trends from the 1970s were about a rejection of what had gone before. Where parents had been neat 1950s preps, the following generation wanted to rebel with styles that reflected a changing society and diverse cultural trends.”
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1960s X Civil Rights Hair Movement Black women were influenced by the civil rights movement and Nina Simone to leave their hair natural. HH: “For centuries, people with Afro hair were persecuted so the arrival of the civil rights movement, and the accompanying ‘black is beautiful’ mantra, was a defiant moment. Many African Americans chose to grow their hair longer and wear it naturally.”
SHUTTERSTOCK
Invented by chemist and hairdresser Robert ‘Jheri’ Redding (co-founder of Redken), the Jheri curl was a permanent waved hairstyle hugely popular with African Americans.
World leading ethical hair extensions To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
REVIEW
WELCOME
Salon International 2019
HOT LIST
Live stages
Products
100s
10
Live artists
Competitions
SHOWS
1000s
TRENDS
20+
the exhibitor’s stands
fashion-focused looks
on the HJ and New Talent stages
Brit mania
the best of British hairdressing
The golden years Out of this world 43 Sassoon touched 48 Rush Live in aid on its 65-year heritage of Great Ormond Street
and looked to the future
the group’s beauty first mantra
pop culture
this year’s competitions
52 Patrick Cameron Business in focus impressed with his 58 A recap of this trademark plaits, braids year’s four engaging Updos and don’ts
and twists
business seminars
Iconic looks Creativity for 53 The Trevor Sorbie 60 a cause artistic team presented The Alternative Hair
its On/Off collection
50 of barbering Guy Tang brought it back 55 Best BaByliss PRO’s Healthy #hairbesties
Tough 56 competition Meet the winners from
Show raised money for Fighting Leukaemia with its fabulous Parody theme
35 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
Super nature 45 The Saco Academy show explored
Hospital looked to the stars for its new Point Constellation collection
Glam pop 51 Mahogany was inspired by 1970s
Sofie Pok shared her barbering skills from LA with a London audience
BUSINESS SESSIONS
40 The it-styles, cuts 47 Schwarzkopf and colours as seen Professional showcased Trends in focus
to the fundamentals – shiny and healthy hair
COMPETITIONS
Standing ovation 2020 vision 36 All the hottest 46 TONI&GUY news and launches from presented wearable but
SEMINARS
Contents
THE STANDS AND BRANDS
Pro sessions
Luxurious style
BaByliss PRO presented a jam-packed educational line-up across the three days ranging from a session focused on textured hair with Lisa Farrall to men’s trend forecasting with Jody Taylor and Liam Campbell.
Salon Supplies presented stylish salon furniture from Pietranera and Karisma. The brand highlighted how salons can tap into the naturals trend and create a luxury element within their salon space by choosing the right standout pieces.
Edit
Mazda giveaway
Creating a riot
A 65-year celebration
Distributed by Alan Howard, Nanokeratin System educators demoed how to create sleek, glossy hair with its smoothing range. Plus, one lucky person won the Mazda MX5 that was sat on the Nanokeratin System stand!
Pulp Riot founders David and Alexis Thurston and leading members of the US Riot Squad demoed alongside the latest recruits from the UK. The team showed how to create wearable looks using the brand’s new permanent Faction8 range.
Sassoon Academy celebrated its 65th anniversary at the show by honouring the brand’s history and taking a look at what’s to come over the next 65 years. Attendees could purchase Sassoon65 hair clips and DVDs featuring the new collections.
Centenary special
It’s a first
Education, education, education
Wahl celebrated 100 years with a dedicated museum on its stand. Visitors could walk through 100 years of clipper history as well as being entertained and educated by the barber-packed live stage.
This was the first time US brand It’s a 10 has showcased in the UK. Distributed by Aston and Fincher, brand founder Carolyn Aronson handed out goodie bags and answered questions about how to use the products in the salon.
It was all about education for Wella Professionals. From Robert Eaton to Patrick Cameron, big names hit the stand to demo the education the brand has to offer. Attendees also learned about Koleston Perfect ME+ using virtual reality headsets.
36 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
A recap of some of the newly launched products and innovations that were showcased at Salon International 2019
Radiant colour
It was all about unlocking the colour code at the Advance Pro Salon stand. The newly launched Colour Code range was demoed on the catwalk with the vibrant looks created by the brand’s art team, which was led by art director Andrew Trott-Barn.
TRENDS
TONI & GUY
HOT LIST
We are family
Unite founder Andrew Dale and international creative director Gary Baker shared the #Unitefamily ethos. Unite is new to Salon Success so the team spent time educating customers about the brand’s high performance products.
SHOWS
Clipper freedom
Andis ambassadors were demoing the Andis Master Cordless Li with a high speed rotary clipper and carbon steel adjustable blades. The clipper gives all the freedom of a cordless so the team described it as a must-have clipper for barbers on the go.
Clink and style
The Hairdreams Champagne Bar was a real hit with visitors as you could enjoy drinking a glass of bubbly while watching the Hairdreams team demo a variety of extensions with hints, tips and expert techniques for applying them.
37 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
Power up
Denman International launched its new Power Paddle Brush at the show. Fusing the pins of the Denman D3 and the soft air-cushioned body of the Paddle Brush, the Power Paddle makes gliding through curly hair a breeze.
BUSINESS SESSIONS
60 glorious years
Takara Belmont celebrated its 60th anniversary in the UK. The company showcased its Vintage Alt range, which is a collection of four styling chairs and two backwash chairs to honour the brand’s heritage, functionality and vintage design.
COMPETITIONS
Atomic blonde
Attendees enjoyed Schwarzkopf Professional’s immersive stand that provided many selfie opportunities, while BlondMe ambassador Jack Howard demonstrated the different ways to use the BlondMe range in the salon.
SEMINARS
Feel the hype
Fresh from the announcement that Sophia Hilton was the brand’s new official ambassador, the Crazy Color team unleashed its new range. HYPE Pure Pigments are five highly concentrated and customisable shades for boosting creativity.
Hot brush
Curl friends
ghd artists including Zoe Irwin, Charlotte Mensah, Adam Reed and Luke Benson showcased their takes on the biggest trends of 2019 and shoppers could finally get their hands on the ghd glide, which sold out online earlier this year.
New to the UK, Ouidad is a brand devoted to curls. Now distributed by Wonderful Brands, Ouidad has been perfecting products for curls for over 30 years. In fact, the brand spearheaded the customised approach for each curl type.
Edit
SASSOON
THE STANDS AND BRANDS
Virtual shopping
Future trends
Mega-star Mounir
Eleven Australia took visitors on a virtual shopping trip with brand co-founder Joey Scandizzo. Any product from the styling range could be placed on the counter in front of a screen which then played a video with tips for how to use the products.
Members of the TONI&GUY team took to their stage to showcase the brand’s fashion-focused 2020 collection. TONI&GUY members were also on hand to chat to visitors about the world-renowned TONI&GUY Academy.
Visitors were greeted by Mounir himself on Sunday. Crowds gathered to catch a glimpse of the Instagram sensation who exhibited with his colour range that aims to re-build hair, add shine and create the colour transformations his fans love.
Heating things up
Psychedelic paradise
Colour clash
The Electric team launched its first range of heated tools at Salon International. The new Electric Work Tools range was a real hit with visitors and includes the WT-1 Harrier Hairdryer and the WT-2 Professional Straightening Iron.
The Amika stand featured its new 3D Shampoo and Conditioner, which is designed to thicken hair. Plus, UK artistic ambassador James Earnshaw and UK pro educator Jenna Shafer demoed braiding techniques that work as a 15-minute salon service.
Things were bright, bold and beautiful on the Osmo stand. Brand ambassadors Heffy Wheeler and Jeseca McMahon were demonstrating key launches from the colour brand such as the Colour Revive range.
38 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
The Trends Download
JO ROBERT
SON – THE
CURL GOD
DESS
HOOKER A ND YOUN GYOUNG A RTISTIC TEA M
Big hair and even bigger attitudes stormed the stage – there was even a tribute to 1980s icons like Madonna and Grace Jones!
PATRICK CAMERON
ADELE CLARKE, HEFFY WHEELER, JES MCMAHON AND LESLEY STITT
1980s vibes
Braidy bunch
KAROLIINA SAUNDERS
TUCKWELL AND CO
It was all about braids on the stages. Stylists fashioned headbands from hair, created micro braids and crafted plaits of all shapes and sizes.
40 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
HEADMASTERS TEAM
The acts across the HJ and New Talent stages pushed the boundaries in terms of what can be achieved behind the chair
JAMES EARNSHAW
COMPETITIONS
RT CLUBSTAR A
TEAM 2019
ZOE IRWIN
AUSTRALIAN FAME TEAM
SEMINARS
Whether it was bows, clips or delicately placed gold leaf sheets – accessories were a standout trend on stage and throughout the show floor.
BUSINESSS SESSIONS SEANHANNA
D&J AMBROSE
41 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
SKYLER LONDON
GHD STYLE SQUAD
TONI&GUY TEAM
SHOWS
SAKS ART TEAM
TRENDS
Accessorize
SARAH BLACK
Softy, softly
Punk colour
LEIGHANNE REGAN, STEVE ROBINSON AND MELVYN ROYCE LANE
THOMA
S HILLS
JACK HOWARD
SHANE BENNETT
KARBON KY
D
From soft waves to beautiful balayage applications, many hair artists were inspired to take a softer approach with their styling and techniques.
42 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
SOPHIA HILTON
UCHE GUSTAV FO
BRANDON MESSINGER
LEONARDO AND RUDI RIZZO AT SANRIZZ
PULP RIOT
STEVEN AUSTIN, NICOLA MCMINN, MYKEY O’HALLORAN, HAYLEY NIXON AND KELSEY SIMPSON
GINA CONWAY
Rebellious shades reigned supreme from acid yellow dip dyes to incredible 50/50 colour looks.
s r a e 65 Y
that Changed Hairdressing
Sassoon Academy reflected on its success so far and shared its excitement for what’s yet to come
T
COMPETITIONS BUSINESS SESSIONS ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
43 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
SEMINARS
“Putting a collection together has many twists and turns but it’s about the team sharing knowledge and ideas.” Mark Hayes
SHOWS
he show was a celebration of 65 years of Sassoon and there were nods to the heritage and history that shaped the brand, but this was also about the hair that excites the team and clients today. International members of the colour team coloured hair with vivid and exciting shades placed with the classic Sassoon signature techniques. “This homage looks to how things that have happened before, help us to do what we do today,” explained UK colour director Edward Darley. Vibrant tones and dramatic contrasts included orange with blue, yellow with deep lilac and pink with grey. While a more natural palette of grey, oyster and linen white were used to create a peekaboo effect. Long hair was worn with quiffs or fringes for added interest, crops were worn sleek or with modern messy texture, while a standout look was a re-worked version of the Brush haircut by Christopher Brooker in 1962. International creative director Mark Hayes took influences from the famous Mia Farrow crop and re-worked it with a mullet. Finally, a futuristic presentation introduced perspex coils, fibreoptic cables and diamantes.
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nspired by the current confident beauty trend KMS has created a new line in haircare called ADDPOWER. Comprised of three products the range allows clients with fine hair to create styles that are as strong and as powerful from the outside as they feel on the inside. ADDPOWER gives fine and fragile hair the look and feel of fuller, stronger hair that can endure styling without damage. Enhanced with rice protein, which works to strengthen and thicken hair, and organic white tea extract, a lightweight antioxidative – these ingredients work perfectly in unison to give fine hair that added boost and support KMS’s TRIfinity technology by strengthening hair from the inside and protecting it from the outside.
ADDPOWER AT A GLANCE ADDPOWER SHAMPOO •Makes fine and weak hair feel stronger and more resilient •Maintains the hair’s natural protein balance •Hair appears healthier
“Most of my clients with fine hair believe their hair is too fragile to style. ADDPOWER lets them overcome this barrier, enabling them to style with much less hesitation and much better results.” Daniel Bruns, KMS global style council
ADDPOWER STRENGTHENING FLUID •Helps create significantly stronger hair •Makes hair more resilient and ready for styling •Detangles and provides hair with lightweight moisture
ADDPOWER THICKENING SPRAY •Makes fine hair look and feel noticeably thicker •Provides light hold and an antistatic effect •For more gentle styling with 90% less damage •Provides heat protection up to 200°C 44 / hji.co.uk
Saco’s Super Nature A spectrum of hairdressing married together by Saco Academy’s ‘beauty first’ philosophy
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COMPETITIONS BUSINESS SESSIONS ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
45 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
SEMINARS
“The hardest thing is to hold back from making things perfect. Leave a little imperfection.” Richard Ashforth
SHOWS
osted by Saco founder Richard Ashforth and supported by international educators, including their new academy team in Korea, the show featured contrasting vibes from the late 1970s and 1980s. Super Nature, which is named after the company’s new superfood haircare and styling range, had nods to the final throes of the disco era, as its glamour slowly merged into a punky new wave. The salon-friendly collection featured a bob and modern Purdey finished with a glossy shine. Textured looks embraced the natural curl of the hair, adding short and playful fringes for beautiful focal points. Richard said: “We believe in respecting the natural fall of the hair. It’s not shapes that we have to work with or big blow-dries.” Analogue was an experimental collection inspired by the raw photography of Derek Ridgers in the clubs and streets of London. Shattered fringes and exaggerated texture were given an edge with a powerful palette of copper, dusty pink or contrasts of neutral tones. With the transformations complete the models took to the stage to rapturous applause and it was clear Saco had once again lived up to its beauty-first mantra.
A 2020 Vision
TONI&GUY’s fun-filled and educational high fashion show pushed the boundaries
he show kicked off with the 2020 Trend Report collection presented by members of the international art team. “It’s a grown up, sophisticated and elegant collection that hairdressers will love to create and your clients will love to wear,” said international creative director Cos Sakkas. “Shades are becoming muted and a bit more grown up. Even the playful colours have got a metallic sheen,” added international technical director Siobhan Golden. The Keeping it Real campaign marked 15 years of label.m with youthful looks such as blonde bobs and crops, natural curls and a petrol-blue fade that stood out from the muted tones. Led by Indira Shauwecker, the London Fashion Week showcase demonstrated techniques that have been used on the catwalk and pushed them a little further. I’m with the Band, involved creating an Alice band using the model’s own hair while The Comb Back pulled hair away from the face in a zigzag shape to give full impact to the voluminous curls behind. The avant garde finale featured nods to the past and future with clashes of texture, hints of metal and stacks of wow factor!
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THE TONI&GUY AWARDS TONI&GUY handed out awards to some of its star performers over the past 12 months: • UK Stylist of the Year 2019: Julian Markez, Sloane Square, London • Global Stylist of the Year 2019: Valery Lipen, Saint Petersburg, Russia • UK Technician of the Year: Richard Munslow, Hemel Hempstead • Global Technician of the Year: Kelly De Bruyn, Holland • Brand Ambassador of the Year 2019: Serena and Yasmin Hussain • Hairdresser of the Year 2019: Australian Artistic Team
“The show is about real hair and real hairdressing that has not been retouched.” Cos Sakkas
46 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
The Best of British Schwarzkopf Professional’s live show highlighted all that is great about British hairdressing
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SHOWS SEMINARS ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
47 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
BUSINESS SESSIONS
“The clothes are the starting point and you take it from there. The hair is secondary – it’s about creating a total image.” Nick Irwin
COMPETITIONS
ntroducing the show, Simon Ellis, Schwarzkopf Professional’s global creative director said: “Our company always wants to showcase the best of the world and today we’re celebrating the best of the UK.” Inspiring presentations followed from Hooker & Young and Rainbow Room International who is celebrating 40 years in business. During his set Nick Irwin used the OSiS+ styling range and a finale from Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison featured the Essential Looks collection. Rainbow Room’s Red collection was about the passion it takes to stay at the top for 40 years. Strong lines and graphic shapes of bobs and crops were finished in a vibrant palette from peacock blue through to vibrant orange and a pillar box red with a slight metallic sheen. In contrast, curls were worn voluminous with a playful texture. Paradox was a monochrome masterpiece by Hooker & Young that celebrated the BlondMe range. The duo showcased a spectrum from ashy blondes and creamy tones to an almost iridescent pearl that was worn on 1980s-inspired curls before cutting two edgy crops. Nick Irwin presented men’s and genderless fashion. He explained: “The clothes are the starting point and you take it from there. The hair is secondary – it’s a total image.” His work included a reinvented Afro look, a French-pleat inspired updo and a yellow crop with an emoji sprayed on the back. Finally, Essential Looks were presented in a photoshoot format. There was a display of live cutting by Tyler who transformed long lengths into a shattered pixie crop. Lesley hand-painted a black border on a bouffant that had already been coloured with dusty pink, creamy blonde and coffee stripes.
Star-Studded Hairdressing Rush Live featured a combination of looks from the brand’s heritage and the cuts and colours of today
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ush Live in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital, celebrated the salon group’s 25th birthday with the Point Constellation collection. “We’ve been looking at stars as the inspiration for the whole collection,” said international colour director Chris Williams as he stencilled a star shape onto an undercut. Greys and ashes were contrasted with clean blondes and lilac hues for eye-catching effects. Stand out colour work included zig-zag ‘constellation’ lines and darker shadows around the undercut to add depth and dimension to the shapes. British Hairdressing Awards finalists Ryan Humpage and Michael Rackett reinvented looks while sharing their career stories. Rush education director Tina Farey gave a voluminous exaggerated shape definition with bold colour placement in cobalt, canary and white. The Rush art team cutting specialists, led by international creative director Andy Heasman, created the strong graphic lines and points of stars in graphic bobs and textured crops while academy manager Paola Pinto created a moon-like halo of curls.
“When we opened we got very busy very quickly because we mixed creativity with passion and when you do that it’s very exciting.” Stell Andrew
48 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
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Guy Tang’s Superpower Beautiful blondes and perfect pastels have turned Guy Tang into an internet sensation
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uy got his #hairbesties in the mood to party with a presentation of his trademark pastel-hair. He kicked off the show with the video for his song SuperPower. As he took to the stage, he explained his presentation would be an evolution from previous shows. “I wanted to bring this show back to the fundamentals of what we do in the salon. For me – the most important thing is healthy and shiny hair.” This stripped back approach saw him explain the exact steps he’d taken to create the five key looks on display. Two stunning blondes showcased his new Naked demi-permanent colours. He showed the versatility of the colours by creating one with a pearl-like iridescent glow and the other with the subtlest hint of blush. Back in the 1990s chunky highlights around the hair line were the height of cool. It’s a look Guy loved and enjoyed bringing up-to-date, but he had to liaise with his model every step of the way. “When we had to blow-dry the look in between, she looked a little nervous but the most important thing is communication,” said Guy. “When you don’t communicate tension starts building up and the client doesn’t trust you anymore. Communicating during your consultation is the most important thing for your client retention. It’s about the relationship.” No Guy Tang show would be complete without some perfect pastels. A stunning pink balayage had an almost iridescent glow, while a bob was coloured in silver lavender and cosmic coral for a head-turning two-tone effect. This show proved that Guy’s superpower is taking complex hairdressing education and making it fun and accessible.
“Never tell your client you are toning their hair as they’ll think you’re fixing it. Call it glazing as this will make them feel special.” Guy Tang
50 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
Mahogany’s Glam Pop
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Stressing the importance of being thoroughly skilled in the seven foundation haircuts to design a look totally compatible to the person, the cutting demos evidenced the technical mastery for which Mahogany – currently celebrating its 40th anniversary – is famed. Exciting shapes showed sharp symmetrical silhouettes or cuts with over-directed sections, which led to veils of hair and slivers of irregular lengths. Technical graduation and invisible disconnection made for shattered loose outlines and disconnected lengths. It was technical mastery at its finest.
51 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
senior creative director Neil Atkinson, international creative director Colin Greaney and UK creative director Antony Licata. The colour demonstration featured different takes on a sunrise and sunset theme. Sunrise shades – yellow, lavender, heather, red, blue and teal green – were translucent and hazy in effect. Sunset hues were of the same colour family but darker and moodier. Application was either freehand or by using colour wraps which, due to their curved shape make it easier to apply product on creative shapes and sections.
BUSINESS SESSIONS
nown universally for flawless, precision cutting and remarkable hair colour – Mahogany’s creative teams brought the company ethos to life with the new Glam Pop collection. Graduation, over-direction, layers, long triangular front panels and head-hugging defined silhouettes vied for attention while being showcased alongside a myriad of eye-catching subtle and strong colour techniques. Glam Pop was inspired by 1970s pop culture, as seen by photographer Esther Friedman, the girlfriend of outrageous crazy rocker, Iggy Pop. Her own look and the swagger of the 1970s coupled with the tailoring of designer Tommy Nutter sit at the core of the collection. The seminar which brought it to life was led by the company’s artistic powerhouse:
COMPETITIONS
1970s rock culture and precise London tailoring inspired Mahogany’s latest collection
SEMINARS
“You must be skilled in the seven foundation haircuts to design a look totally compatible to the person in your chair.” Mahogany Team
Patrick’s Pure Magic Ultimate showman Patrick Cameron impressed a full-house with three new braiding techniques and three classic updos t was femininity and glamour all the way as Patrick Cameron presented with joyful panache his House of Luxury philosophy. The maestro of dressed hair delighted his loyal devotees by demonstrating three braiding techniques and three classic looks. Assisted by artistic director Marco Erbi, Patrick explained his new way of creating a braid without the need to weave. It’s a method which depends upon a measured, repetitive action, where sections are placed ‘over, under and up to the top’ using consistent levels of tension. The technique creates a lovely ‘spine’ of hair, fashioned either close to the hairline or diagonally across the head. For a little extra luxury, braids were enhanced with a glittering hair decoration chosen from a new
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range of Patrick Cameron hair accessories. Paying homage to three of his favourite classic dressed looks was next on the agenda. Each relies on the security of a backcombed foundation, hidden by an overlay of lightly backcombed sections. Waves and folds of hair are placed to perfection to create voluptuous, gorgeous, expensive-looking, ladylike styles. Hairspray is Patrick’s product of choice for backbrushing as it keeps hair focussed, obscures flyaways and provides control.
Ambidextrous, blessed with outstanding hand-to-eye coordination and a natural flair for style and balance, Patrick handles and controls hair in a sensory way – the same way a couturier would work with a luxurious fabric. He works intuitively, always creating looks of ultimate femininity, class and style. He loves showing and sharing his ideas with a responsive audience and has been an influencer of many generations of hairdressers all over the world. Long may it continue.
“Many hairdressers are shy about updo work so my aim is to inspire them to get their hands into long hair.” Patrick Cameron
52 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
“The shape and colour aesthetic changes over time. What looked right in the past doesn’t look right in today’s world.” Nathan Walker
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Shadow Play and Wolf Man. From a colour perspective, Animal – a mottled, tactile animal print progressed from an early colour effect called The Bee with exaggerated stripes in the hair. Wolf Man’s dark roots contrasted with light ends and were shown in a more subtle way. The showstopper was the team’s update to The Wedge. The colour was reversed to be dark on top and light underneath (originally it was light on top with the darker shade underneath) and with much less graduation. The perfect homage to a perfect look.
53 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
25th year with the company. “We looked to the past objectively in order to move forward,” said Nathan. “The aesthetic of what we look for in shape and colour changes over time. What looked right in the 1970s, 1980s or 1990s doesn’t look right in today’s world,” he added. “For example, the bold stripes of colour made so fashionable by Geri Halliwell looked great at the time but they just don’t look right for now.” To cite examples of the On/Off collection, cut and style-wise there were modern takes on the Scrunch,
BUSINESS SESSIONS
t’s an astonishing 40 years since Trevor Sorbie catapulted into the spotlight by creating The Wedge – his groundbreaking and breathtaking haircut. The Wedge remains one of hairdressing’s most iconic images of the 1970s. When looking to create a new collection, members of the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team decided to give the images synonymous with Trevor’s genius a new vibe. The resulting On/Off Collection sees magically memorable Sorbie looks of yesteryear reborn, echoing shapes, textures and colours of the past but with a fresh aesthetic. The thinking underpinning this directive was explained by seminar compère and Trevor Sorbie international colour director Nathan Walker who is now in his
COMPETITIONS
The Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team brought fresh aesthetics to some of the brand founder’s most iconic looks
SEMINARS
Retrospective Reinvention
“Hair density, head shape and hairline pattern all play a part when deciding your guideline.” Sofie Pok
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went and encouraged audience questions along the way. Different types of clippers, trimmers, foil shavers and razors were all explained. Sofie also gave helpful tips such as to consider hair density, head shape and hairline pattern as all of these factors play a part in deciding your guideline. Sofie’s clear and concise teaching made for easy understanding of the many technical nuances in men’s barbering. She showed how having expert skills and understanding makes a huge difference between an acceptable result and an outstanding result.
55 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
make sense of the colour wheel – taking a leap of faith to work in men’s grooming has paid off handsomely. She clearly loves her job and is exceptionally good at it. An expert in barbering tools and their multi-functional application, she studies tool development and is keen to see new products being improved to help barbering processes. Following a fast-forward video of a classic men’s grooming process, Sofie took to the stage to execute the same look in real time on a classic male model. She explained her work as she
BUSINESS SESSIONS
or anyone unfamiliar with this firecracker of knowledge and professionalism, Sofie Pok is a barber with an international brand and almost a quarter of a million Instagram followers. Featured on Buzzfeed’s Top Knot video with over 2.5 million views, she’s enjoyed masses of editorial in trade media the world over, as well as being in receipt of many awards in recognition of her brilliant barbering skills. A platform education artist for BaByliss PRO, Sofie made her Salon International debut with a seminar showcasing her globally sought-after barbering skills, using the BaByliss PRO grooming range. Explaining that her earlier career as a ladies’ stylist didn’t hit the spot as she didn’t enjoy working with longer hair and couldn’t
COMPETITIONS
BaByliss PRO’s Sofie Pok generously shared her barbering knowledge to inspire her audience to be the best
SEMINARS
Barbering brilliance
Meet the NHF Britain’s Best Competition
Salon Champions
The competitions area and HJ Stage at Salon International were buzzing throughout the show with entrants competing to be named a 2019 winner
The Hair and Barber Council Student of the Year Competition
S Ladies Commercial Fashion Look
Lily Pitcher, Renaissance Hair Team
HJ’s Extensions Competition sponsored by Remi Cachet
S Men’s Cut and Finish
Daniel Robinson, Danny & Co
S Level 2 Winner
Leah Knapman, Cheshire College North and West S Extensions Specialist Creative Award
Rowan Milne
COMPETITIONS
S Barber of the Year
Nick Lee, Mantra Men’s Hair & Grooming S Level 3 Winner
Jessica Robinson, Central Hair London
S Extensions Specialist Classic Award
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
BUSINESS SESSIONS
S Bridal Hairdresser of the Year
Tom Piper
Craig Parkinson, Craig Parkinson
S Avant Garde
Teresa Cross, La Vita Hair Design
The Denman Stage Star 2019 Competition
S Extensions Overall Award
S The Denman Stage Star 2019 winner
Raminta Doškuté
Josh Woodman
56 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
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Business Time HJ hosted four informative business-focused sessions exploring retail, social media, branding and education T Make money from your salon’s retail shelf With Nicola Smyth and Dan Smyth-Humphriss
Award-winning hairdresser Nicola Smyth and her business partner Dan Smyth-Humphriss shared their hints and tips for selling products in the salon. The session explored the inventive ways in which they inspire their staff to sell. The duo shared tips for getting clients in the mood to buy and the audience came away with plenty of ideas to improve their retail sales in the salon.
S How to become an educator: Education 101 With Jo Robertson
Leading educator Jo Robertson knows everything there is to know about being an educator. She inspired the audience with tales on how to get leads from your Instagram profile and how to stand out in the competitive world of education. She also shared her experience of designing content and the skills she’s developed for teaching others. T Building a salon brand With Electric London founder Mark Woolley
BUSINESS SESSIONS
Mark revealed how he has grown a brand and salon group that consumers know and trust and why marketing that brand is so important. He explained how to create professional products from scratch with integrity while injecting some fun and character with live events and unique product packaging.
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
S Can you go wrong on social media? With Sophia Hilton, Jack Howard, Jaymz Marsters and Lisa Maynard-Atem
An expert panel of leading industry social media experts discussed the dos and don’ts of social media. Led by HJ’s digital editor Akesha Reid, the experts shared how they attract business and grow their profiles online to a sold-out audience. 58 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
HIGH QUALITY SALON FURNITURE
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Obsession Collection
AYALA-SALON-FURNITURE.CO.UK
Royal Collection
An Alternative Parody This year’s spectacular Parody-themed Alternative Hair Show took place at ExCeL London alongside Salon International inda Evans opened the show and welcomed Salon International and HJ’’s executive director Jayne Lewis-Orr to the stage. Jayne said: “We’re delighted to have the Alternative Hair Show alongside Salon International this year. When you see the work backstage you will be in awe and it’s all for such a great cause. We all need to say a huge thank you to Tony and Maggie Rizzo for pulling this together.” This year’s show raised £163,650 for the Fighting Leukaemia charity and guests were shown how the money will be used to help children battling with the disease.
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THE ALTERNATIVE HAIR INTERNATIONAL VISIONARY AWARDS The Alternative Hair International Visionary Awards was presented by Alternative Hair founder Tony Rizzo and Alternative Hair president Anthony Mascolo. The runnersup and winners for 2019 are: • Cut and Colour Runner up – Carlos Valiente Escriva Winner – Eva Stromblad • Avant Garde Runner up – Jeffery Mok Winner – Elvin Soh • Men’s Runner up – David Rodelas Guerraro Winner – Lo Shih-Chen
The Hair Legend Award
Raffel Pages was presented with this year’s Hair Legend Award. He was described as a humble man and one of the most relevant names in hairdressing. Born in Barcelona, he built an empire of over 100 salons and has created a Museum of Hairdressing with over 14,000 hair-related objects, including a lock of Napoleon’s hair and medieval hair tombs. The AIPP Awards
The AIPP Awards honoured the artistic achievements of international hairdressers and hairdressing teams. UK recipients included Mark Leeson who was given the Best Commercial Award for his Clash Collection and Angelo Seminara who was awarded Best Avant Garde for his Imatat-o collection. Spanish recipients included X-Presion for the Best Colour Award and Jose Boix from TONI&GUY who received the Best Men Award. Finally, Danny Pato
from New Zealand received the Best Video award for his video featuring the Tori collection. A creative interpretation
The finale featured 15 amazing international artists and salons, including Sanrizz, Anne Veck,
Saco, HOB, Sassoon, Marc Antoni and the TIGI Creative Team from the UK. Each team gave a unique performance based on their interpretation of this year’s Parody theme. The stage was awash with bright and bold colours, graphic cuts and a fusion of textures.
ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
61 / To register your interest for Salon International 2020 go to salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
THE SALON EMOTION JOURNEY WITH HJ
LET’S GET EMOTIONAL Have you heard about the one-day course that can lead to significant salon growth within three months?
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’Oréal Professional Products Division’s portfolio of brands (L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken, Kérastase, Matrix, Pulp Riot – to name a few out of the 11), invited Hairdressers Journal International and over 1,200 people from 800 salons on its Salon Emotion journey this year. The one-day events took place at various locations across the UK and Ireland. HJ was there to see first-hand the impact of the training, as well as cover all of the action live on Instagram. In fact the total Salon Emotion social media reach for the 14 events was over three million!
Straight-talking stats Running a successful salon is about embracing the continually evolving salon landscape, including new technologies and the constant shifts in consumer behaviour – and this means adopting new types of skills too. After attending the one-day Salon Emotion training here’s just a snapshot of the average results for some of the participating salons*.
*
+34% +6.25% *
Average increase in the number of Google Reviews for a sample of salons that attended the event
Average increase in the number of Google Ratings for a sample of salons that attended the event 62 / hji.co.uk
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The Physical Transformation
The look, feel, smell, vibe, the entire environment and space that you create play a fundamental role in the client’s experience. The physical look of your salon is your unique identity drawing your clients in and keeping them coming back. As part of the Salon Emotion programme, the team support salons to help elevate and curate an environment and consumer journey that is memorable at every step – from total salon refits to subtle enhancements.
CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE
How it works in practise: “Our salon refit has been designed with the Salon Emotion journey in mind. The feedback from our clients has been 100% positive and we have seen an increase in new client consultation bookings.” Karen Dodds at Cutting Room Creative
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“The new salon layout flows so much better and feels a lot bigger. L’Oréal Professionnel have supplied lots of great finishing touches for us as well as retail displays. Our walkin retail sales have increased almost two-fold since the refit.” Tim Winter at Michelle Louise Salon
The Emotional Transformation
The Digital Transformation
As a hairdresser, you have a significant impact on the way a client looks but also how they feel so you can make a positive difference to your clients’ everyday lives. The Salon Emotion training helps salons to discover how to enhance the connection with clients, from elevated consultation training to the power of touch at the backwash. The human-tohuman and emotional relationship between a stylist and client is sacred.
The Salon Emotion event aims to upskill salons by sharing the social and digital tools that can have an impact on your business. You can no longer rely on passers-by on the high street to generate new appointments. Clients will find you via Google if you have set up your account and will judge you based on your star rating or your virtual shop window on social media or your website’s homepage. How can you be expected to be an expert in digital? Well maybe you can’t be an expert, but you can learn about the areas that have the potential to make a difference both simply and quickly.
How it works in practise: “Salon Emotion helps our creatives to educate their client on the importance of professional services and products so they can engage fully with the salon experience.” Gavin Hoare at Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa “Salon Emotion has opened our eyes to the client journey and the importance of aftercare and interaction with feedback – both positive and negative.” Gary Wilde at Wilde About Hair
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The Salon Emotion event breaks down the salon experience into three key pillars, Physical, Emotional and Digital – all having an impact on a client’s experience and the success of the salon
How it works in practise: “We have changed the format of our Instagram posts and the times of posting. We purchased ring lights and a digital camera to improve the quality of our social posts and have encouraged clients to post their results on their personal accounts.” Gary at Wilde About Hair Since the event, Wilde About Hair has seen a 19% increase in the number of Google Ratings and a 243% increase in the number of Google Reviews.* Ĩ Ý - /# 1 )/ /# . '*) $)/-* 0 ) *× -. page to its website which brought in *1 - ëç ) 2 '$ )/. $) /# Ù-./ (*)/#ěĩ Since the event, Jeniosa has maintained a Google Rating of 4.9 and has seen a 33% increase in the number of Google Reviews.*
The landscape doesn’t stop shifting so the Salon Emotion journey continues… The Salon Emotion journey with HJ will continue in 2020 across the UK and Ireland, including the original roadshow as well as the launch of a new Advanced Level 2 training session with topics like salon sustainability and team management as well as the latest digital and social tools. If you would like support to help grow your business sustainably and profitably in 2020 contact salonemotion@loreal.com 63 / hji.co.uk
*ALL FIGURES FOR GOOGLE REVIEWS AND GOOGLE RATINGS ARE BASED ON AN AVERAGE FROM A SAMPLE OF 361 SALONS, MEASURED OVER A PERIOD OF THREE TO SIX MONTHS AFTER EACH SALON HAD ATTENDED THE SALON EMOITON ROADSHOW.
THE THREE PILLARS OF TRANSFORMATION
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
MEET THE 2019 FINALISTS AND NOMINEES To book tickets for the best night of the year email lizzi@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365 65 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
MIDLANDS HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
James Earnshaw Bad Apple Hair
Kieron Fowles Regis UK
Stephanie Gamble and Ashley Gamble Ashley Gamble
Shaun Hall Mark Leeson
Let Lew Let Lew Hair Design
Nick Malenko and Nick Tucker Royston Blythe
66 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
NORTH WESTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Rosie Briscoe Ethos Hairdressing
John Claxton and Fran Cordey Claxton
Kayleigh Dixon The Red Angel Hair Company
Lynsey Harrison Renaissance
Kymberley Holmes TINT
Jon Wilsdon TONI&GUY, Deansgate
67 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
NORTHERN IRELAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Zara Colhoun Stafford Hair
Julian Dalrymple The Sittingroom
Simon Houston Houston Hair
Sharon Malcolm Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing
Andrew Mulvenna Andrew Mulvenna Hair
Nicola Murray Nicola Murray Hair
68 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
SCOTTISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Dylan Brittain Rainbow Room International
Jason Hall Jason Hall Hairdressing
Simon Hill Sesh Hairdressing
Sophie Laidlaw Wonderland
Colin McAndrew Medusa Hairdressing
Caroline Sanderson Ego Hair Design
70 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
NORTH EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Ross Charles Ross Charles
Joseph Ferraro Joseph Ferraro Hair
Rick Roberts Rick Roberts
Emma Simmons Salon 54
Alexander Turnbull Alexander Hair and Beauty
Jonathan Turner Hooker & Young
71 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
SOUTHERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Thomas Hills TH1
Ryan Humpage RUSH
Altin Ismaili Marc Antoni
Leonardo Rizzo Sanrizz Guildford
Andrew Smith Andrew Smith Salons
David Vault-Baker and Ben Hendry The Vault Hair and Spa
72 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
WALES & SOUTH WEST HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Samantha Bell Hair at 58
Casey Coleman CHAIR salons
Martin Crean Mode Martin Crean
Ben Driscoll-Price Price & Driscoll
Ken Picton and Zoe Williams Ken Picton Salon
Steven Smart Smartest 73
73 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTING Rainbow Room International’s
COLLECTION
40
th
ANNIVERS ARY
“Our team of Directors and Creative Team push us harder than ever and we both appreciate that. We will continue to develop the brand with our amazing team and ha ve fun doing what we ha ve b een doing ever y day ” A la n & L inda Stewa r t
C E L E B R AT I N G 4 0 Y E A R S O F R A I N B O W R O O M I N T E R N AT I O N A L Schwarzkopf Professional are proud to present
Creating and nurturing a hugely successful salon
Rainbow Room International’s incredible Ruby
group, an internationally renowned Art Team
collection. Created to celebrate their 40th
and a state of the art Academy that trains and
anniversary it is a showcase of everything the
educates students from across the globe, it’s little
Rainbow Room International Art Team are renowned
wonder that Rainbow Room International have won
for; beautifully detailed hair work, technically
over 54 awards for both creativity and business
excellent colour work and fashion focused
acumen, including a coveted place in HJ’s British
imagery. Led by Suzie McGill and Dylan Brittain
Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame for Suzie McGill.
the Art Team are a collective of talented stylists Megan Deigan, Paddy McDougall, Diana Carson and Kenny McLeod. Pooling their individual styles and talents culminated in this ruby themed shoot, a beautiful representation of the group’s 40th anniversary celebration. As Scotland’s largest salon group, Rainbow Room International have a well earned and longstanding reputation in the British hairdressing industry. Founded in 1979, owners Alan and Linda Stewart have shown not only their incredible business success but their dedication and commitment to the industry.
40 years down, Rainbow Room International have shown not only their incredible success, but also their dedication and commitment to the industry and Schwarzkopf Professional are thrilled to be their product partner of choice since the beginning and we hope you love this striking ruby collection as much as we do.
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Sharon Cox Sanrizz, St Albans
Lisa Graham and Joseph l’Anson Mark Leeson
Lauryn Harvey and Francesca Woodruff VAE Hair
Nathan Jasztal and Zoe Jasztal Silhouette Du Barry
Phillippa Lee and Hope Hassell Yaxley Hair and Beauty
Jessica Neil and Mary Geoghegan KH Hair
76 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
LONDON HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Richard Ashforth Saco
Jordanna Cobella Cobella
Andy Heasman RUSH
Karine Jackson Karine Jackson
Desmond Murray Atherton Cox
Davide Spinelli Gina Conway Aveda Salons
77 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
AVANT GARDE HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Sylvestre Finold TONI&GUY
Pascal Lombardo Gielly Green Salon
Benjamin Madle Head Hunters
Dylan McConnachie Salon64
Lucie Monbillard Sean Hanna
Sophie Springett and Hayley Bishop TONI&GUY, North Audley Street
78 / hji.co.uk
I N - S A L O N
|
I N - S T O R E
|
O N L I N E
Did you know...
We have loads of NEW furniture in our showroom You can now view a selection of Karisma and Pietranera styling chairs and washpoints new for 2019
Visit us today at Southampton Furniture Showroom, Bond Street, Southampton, SO14 5QA
0844 3356 121 | salonsupplies.co.uk | furniture@salonsupplies.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Suzie Clelland Marc Antoni
Sophie Gibson Hooker & Young
Alex Morton Jamie Stevens, Kensington Salon
Federico Patelli TONI&GUY, Victoria
Michael Rackett RUSH
Kaitlin Bell and Atlanta Surgenor Houston Hair
80 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Gianluca Caruso TONI&GUY, Wigmore Street
Andrea Giles and Terri Kay Mark Leeson
Desmond Murray Atherton Cox
Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter Essensuals
Jamie Stevens Jamie Stevens, Kensington Salon
Christian Wiles Christian Wiles Hairdressing
81 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
AFRO HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Lathaniel Chambers Lathaniel’s Couture Hair and Beauty
Lisa Farrall WIG London
Anthony Grant Jamie Stevens, Kensington Salon
Junior Green Junior Green London
Aycan Kemal New York Hair Design
Rick Roberts Rick Roberts
83 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Marc Antoni Artistic Team
Mark Leeson Art Team
Atherton Cox Art Team
Ken Picton Artistic Team
TONI&GUY Artistic Team
Alexander Hair and Beauty Artistic Team
84 / hji.co.uk
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
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SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment – the salon service game changer Providing 100 times more keratin than shampoo and conditioner alone, SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment strengthens hair before, during and after salon chemical services. It guarantees an instant transformation as it works in just five minutes and is the perfect salon bond-building solution for extremely sensitised hair. The treatment fortifies locks to improve the internal condition. It’s easy to apply, requires no mixing and, when used in conjunction with TIGI Copyright Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, it gives optimal results. Colourists love True Light Freestyle Blonder Formulated with clay and mineral oil, True Light Freestyle Blonder provides a perfectly controlled application. It achieves up to 7 levels of lift in only 40 minutes for quicker freehand painting services and healthy stronger blondes. The TIGI exclusive Anti-Breakage Arginine Complex helps maintain hair integrity during the lightening process for healthy-looking hair. True Light Freestyle Blonder is the perfect partner to the revolutionary TIGI Copyright SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment. It provides resilience before, during and after the bleaching process to reduce the level of damage. For further information on TIGI Copyright, phone 0344 844 0944, email customer.service@tigi.com, visit www.tigicopyright.com and follow the brand’s Instagram account @TIGIcopyright.
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PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
BRITISH COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Anna Alford STIL
Anthony J Osborne Royston Blythe
Sophie Gibson and Jonathan Turner Hooker & Young
Stephanie Peckmore Bad Apple Hair
86 / hji.co.uk
Daniel Spiller Marc Antoni
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
TREND IMAGE OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Jamie Benny HARE & BONE
Sarah Black Linton & Mac
Connor Evans Men’s Grooming Company
Emma Melia PKAI Hair
Federico Patelli TONI&GUY, Victoria
Isabella Smith The Vault Hair and Spa
87 / hji.co.uk
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COVERS ALL ASPECTS OF HAIR STYLING, BARBERING AND BEAUTY INSURANCE PACKAGES FOR: •Self-employed hairdressers •Hair stylists • Salon owners•Beauty therapists•Teacher training STUDENT POLICY NOW AVAILABLE FOR JUST
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INDIVIDUAL INSURANCE FROM £37.50 PER YEAR • £6m Public, Products & Treatment Liability • Hair and Beauty options available • Cover for Nails, Makeup and Spray Tan included • Kit and Equipment cover available • Advanced Treatment options • Teacher Training cover available
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Contact the team: T: 0345 340 3550 E: info@hjdirect.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
INTERNATIONAL COLLECTION OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
Nathan Armagnacq Oscar Oscar Chadstone, Melbourne, Australia
Chrystofer Benson Chrystofer Benson Collective, Utah, US
Jacky Chan Oscar Oscar Chadstone, Melbourne, Australia
Tracey Devine-Smith Glamour Salon, Abu Dhabi, UAE
Uros Mikic Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney, Australia
Alain Pereque Alain Pereque, Montreal, Canada
89 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
DARREN AMBROSE BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
90 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
SALLY BROOKS BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
91 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
ERROL DOUGLAS BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
92 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
ROBERT EATON BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
93 / hji.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUSTINHARRISPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
GARY HOOKER AND MICHAEL YOUNG BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEES
95 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
ADAM REED BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
96 / hji.co.uk
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
PRICES, WAGES AND PROFITS How do you work out how much to charge your clients and how to calculate wages? The NHF/NBF reveals the steps you should take if you are only just breaking even or making a loss in your salon Sort out your pricing Take a logical approach to working out your prices, advises NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “As a first step, make a note of all your outgoings. This will include wages, buying products, rent, rates, utility bills and accountancy/banking costs. The prices you charge should be enough to cover all your costs and make a profit.”
Minimum Wage: nhf.info/nmw-law. Making a profit Once your prices and wages are sorted, there are additional steps you can take to increase your profits, says Hilary. “For example, you can boost retail sales by encouraging your staff to sell the products they really love and offering a monthly prize for the best salesperson.
You can also ask your supplier to run a training session so your staff fully understand the range of products you sell.” Find out how to make your staff retail savvy: nhf.info/retail. “It’s vital to keep your existing clients as well as attract new ones,” Hilary points out. “Losing even a single customer can be very costly financially – and if they share negative reviews on social media you may lose more.” Find out what you can do to keep your clients: nhf.info/client-loyalty. Dealing with no-shows “One no-show a day for a £50 appointment could cost you up to £14,400 a year, but you can take action to prevent and reduce no-shows and late cancellations,” says Hilary. Find out what you can do by going to nhf.info/no-shows. NHF/NBF Members can also download a free in-depth guide to handling no-shows and late cancellations by going to nhf.info/no-show-guide.
Raising prices “Don’t be afraid to More support raise your prices from the NHF/NBF if you need to,” says Hilary. “If For less than 75p a day, the your clients NHF/NBF offers a wide range love coming of legal, employment and to your salon financial help plus brilliant and value ideas for managing people the service and boosting your business. they receive, NHF/NBF Members can call they will the membership team for understand you free information and advice need to review about any aspect of your prices on an running their business. annual basis.” It makes sense to increase your prices in April as that’s when the National Minimum Wage goes up, says Hilary. “This is often covered in the national press so higher prices will make more sense to your clients at this time.” Getting wages right You must pay your staff the correct National Minimum Wage (NMW) or National Living Wage (NLW), says Hilary. “If you don’t you will risk large fines and naming and shaming by the government. The NMW and NLW go up every year and you will also need to keep an eye on staff birthdays as they may move into a higher pay bracket part-way through the year.” Find out more about the National
Join the NHF/NBF before the end of November 2019 and quote HJN25 to get £25 off your membership fee. Visit www.nhf.info/join or call 01234 831965 for more information. 97 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
COS SAKKAS BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
98 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
ANGELO SEMINARA BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
99 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
EUGENE SOULEIMAN BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR NOMINEE
100 / hji.co.uk
F O R M E R LY T H E HAIRDRESSERS’ CHARITY e newly named Hair and Beauty Charity supports hair and beauty professionals in need. We offer financial assistance to individuals and their families facing difficult times due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, bereavement and financial hardship. Our beneficiaries are given regular payments or one-off grants to make their lives a little easier. We rely on support from corporate sponsors and hair and beauty professionals to continue our vital work. If you require our help or would like more information on how to donate, fundraise or support us please get in touch.
IGF @hbcharityuk
Visit our new home hairandbeautycharity.org call 01234 831888 or email info@hairandbeautycharity.org
REGISTERED CHARITY NUMBER: 1166298
CUTTING EDGE JORDI DE PEREZ AT LA BARBERIA DE GRACIA
Barbers to the rescue
All of the latest men’s hairdressing news to help you improve your grooming game
The Lions Barber Collective and the City of London Corporation held an event at the historic Barber-Surgeons’ Hall in London last month. Attendees watched hair being cut in the historic hall for the first time in years to promote the role barbers can play in mental health and male suicide awareness. The Lions Barber Collective aims to turn barbershops into safe spaces for men to discuss mental health.
GENERATION
Z STYLE
55% Over half of US men feel ashamed about their body hair, according to a study by OnePoll on behalf of BAKblade.
SHUTTERSTOCK
The latest Generation Z subculture – the so-called eBoy – has a specific look. eBoy hair is always parted in the middle, has plenty of texture and often falls just above the ear. You might recognise the eBoy hairstyle (the ‘e’ stands for electronic) from 1990s icons such as Joey from Friends and Leonardo DiCaprio, but it is now worn by Gen Z stars such as Korean pop band BTS (pictured bottom right). “The look works well on those with thinner hair types who want more volume,” explains Jim Shaw, owner of Essensuals Men. “A texturising spray like a salt spray can be used to give added texture or a wax or pomade will give it a more slick look.”
Everyone is going back to matte with these styling products:
THREE OF THE BEST The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Clay RRP £9.99
102 / hji.co.uk
Reuzel Matte Styling Paste £13.99
Uppercut Deluxe Styling Powder £14
Seek natural growth, harvest calm. Zen Series.
104 / hji.co.uk
Fresh cuts, fades and festival vibes
YOUNG AND ALIVE
Hair: Myles Lewis, Connor Shepherd-Ashby and Codey Williams Photography: Jen JB Photography
“The Young and Alive collection was inspired by the looks at Coachella Festival and the styling is fresh from a 1980s summer. The title comes from The Smiths song ‘There is a Light That Never Goes Out’.” Myles Lewis
105 / hji.co.uk
Modern Man Classic styles with a trend-led twist
“We wanted to create styles that clients can wear every day whilst reflecting modern trends. We used a mix of classic and current cutting and styling techniques to achieve these looks.� William Gray
Hair: William and Bianca Gray Make-up: Norma Gray Styling: Ebony Gray Photography: Jarred Photography 106 / hji.co.uk
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Hair: Joshua Goldsworthy @ Goldsworthy’s Photography: Michael Young Make-up: Kirsten Baillie Styling: Michael Young
2020
T HE HOT LIST
Just add water
Travel in style
Scissor hands
Kérastase K WATER harnesses an innovative smoothing technology that is activated by water. Applied at the backwash, it creates a polished, glass-like finish without weighing hair down. RRP £10
The Balmain Paris Limited Edition Hair Couture Silver Cosmetic Bag includes a mini shampoo and conditioner with argan oil to nourish natural and coloured hair. RRP £34.95
The fully recyclable Leaf Scissors Black Edition have an ergonomic design. The high quality Japanese steel scissors are available in both left and right-handed styles and three different blade lengths.
Hair loss helper
Repair and restore
Pink power
Part of the Remi Cachet Elegance Range, the Master Parting is designed to disguise hair loss. Available in 19 shades, the piece is handmade from 100% human hair and can last up to a year. From £329
Muk Haircare Intense Muk Repair helps to treat even the most damaged hair. Containing a shampoo, conditioner and treatment, it leaves hair feeling nourished and healthy. From £9.75
Using avocado and linseed oils to restore vibrancy, the OSMO Colour Revive is now available in Hot Pink. The conditioning cream can be topped up in three minutes. RRP £13.95
Gently does it
Vegan beauty
Eternal youth
Kent Brushes has created a brush in partnership with Breast Cancer Haven. The brush is for people going through chemotherapy with pure bristles to minimise damage and hair breakage. £10
Perfect for salons looking to become more natural and sustainable, SUK RAM haircare is 100% vegan-friendly and cruelty-free. The range has organic and natural ingredients. From £15
Joico Vero K-Pak Age Defy Color is available in seven on-trend natural beige shades. It gives complete grey coverage in one step for clients who want more youthful-looking hair. RRP £9.80
110 / hji.co.uk
Scalp soother
Luxe style
Full steam ahead
IDHair Solutions is designed for scalp issues. It harnesses scalp-friendly ingredients such as salicylic acid and piroctone olamine which fights one of the leading causes of dandruff.
Salon and spa furniture brand Maletti has launched the Madam collection. The range includes a selection of styling chairs and stools, which can be customised to each individual salon.
Meet the next generation of steam styling. L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod 3.0 is designed to smooth your client’s hair and protect the integrity of the hair fibre.
Get bodied
Split ends begone
Repair and go
Deliver strength, body and support with Kerastraight Root Boost. The spray can be used on both wet and dry hair and it uses heat to activate the styling power within the formulation.
WNT London has created a weightless re-hydrating shampoo, accompanied by a conditioner with ingredients such as argan oil to protect and prevent frizz and split ends.
R+CO Centerpiece All in One Elixir Spray is a lightweight and multi-tasking styling spray. It is packed with rich oils to detangle, help fight frizz and repair your client’s hair.
Double whammy
Clean beauty
Long and strong
Encased in a festive box with a star print, milk_shake Duo Sets contain a shampoo and a conditioner. Clients can opt for either the Colour Maintainer or the Integrity Nourishing duo.
The handle of the Lotus Ecofriendly Detangling Brush is made from plant starch and designed to breakdown naturally to protect the environment. £5 each or £12 for a 12-piece display box
Schwarzkopf Professional Mad About Lengths is a holistic care regime that encourages hair to grow healthy and long. It helps to reduce hair breakage and is designed to seal split ends.
111 / hji.co.uk
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.
Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
SPONSORED BY
Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DX. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
INTERIORS
SERENE SCENE Sally Montague Town Spa, Salon and Studio in Derbyshire is a chic space for clients to relax, indulge and rewind 113 / hji.co.uk
Name: Sally Montague Town Spa, Salon and Studio Address: 4 Horse and Jockey Yard, Ashbourne, Derbyshire Owner: Sally Montague Size: 8,000sq ft Budget: £1.2m Design: Matthew Montague Architects
INTERIORS
SALLY’S TOP TIPS • Stay relevant Pick an interior scheme that won’t date quickly. • Keep your team informed Make sure your vision is communicated to the build team. • Go bespoke Ensure the salon’s services will cater to your clientele. We offer hair and beauty appointments as well as yoga classes.
C
entering around a dramatic concrete staircase, Sally Montague Town Spa, Salon and Studio in Ashbourne is a minimalist’s dream space. Shades of the purest white, cream and caramel are accented with high shine stainless steel. Situated in a Derbyshire country town, the salon is a hub for those looking to indulge in hair and beauty treatments, and the space also runs wellbeing classes such as yoga. Sally Montague has run her eponymous salon chain for 36 years, but it was a decade ago when she spotted the Ashbourne salon site. “It was a plot of waste land when I saw it, but it had potential. It’s located in the centre of the town in a pedestrianised area so I could see there would be lots of footfall,” Sally explains. “We knew that we wouldn’t be able to find any other land to build on in this conservation area.” The calm and serene interior of the salon belies the difficulties Sally and her team faced during the building process. It has taken over ten years from buying the plot to completion and there have been many struggles along the way. “The difficult parts of the process included getting planning permission as we needed consent from eight neighbouring businesses,” Sally adds. The brief was to design a spacious salon with lots of natural light. A strict
palette of white and grey hues means the salon looks calm and clutter-free. The design and build proved to be a family affair. Sally’s husband designed the layout and interior and her brother’s practice, Matthew Montague Architects, designed the building. There are 24 bespoke styling stations in the salon which are all made from wood, chrome and glass. This gives clients and stylists alike plenty of space to move around each section. The chairs are covered in dark brown textured leather from 114 / hji.co.uk
Pietranera which adds to the luxe feel. The indulgent hair spa has five reclining massage chairs behind a brick and chrome feature wall and fake fireplace which creates a private space for clients to relax. “We wanted the Town Spa, Salon and Studio to be a space for people to enjoy spending time, whether it is for a facial, colour appointment or yoga class,” enthuses Sally. The Ashbourne salon is a white, elegant but entirely practical space that addresses all of a client’s pampering needs.
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CAREERS
What’s your advice for someone wishing to launch a product brand?
As a hairdresser and a consumer, I was always thinking of ways products could be improved. Identify a gap in the market and bring it to life because if you can envision it – you can achieve it. What challenges have you faced in your career so far?
It’s a 10 has been around for almost 15 years and it’s been quite a journey. I bought my partner out two years ago at a point when I could have sold, but I was ready to take control and solidify the company’s professionalism. No one knew I existed – I was coming out from behind the curtain. What is your proudest moment?
Carolyn Aronson
The Astute Business Woman Carolyn Aronson, founder of It’s a 10 Haircare, shares her experience of being a businesswoman and building her own brand What was your route into hair?
After I finished beauty school, I went behind the chair in a salon. I knew I wanted to be a salon owner, so I went to business school in the evenings. This gave me a good understanding of how to run a business when I transitioned into owning one. What are your tips for building a name in the industry?
Building a loyal clientele is the foundation for everything: Try going up to a stranger and giving them a coupon and focus on your social media strategy. You have to be willing to put yourself out there – after all you are your best advertisement. What is your experience of being a woman in business?
There are some instances where men assume women don’t understand
certain matters. For example, I might not know as much about the financial side of the business as my accountants, but I understand my books and the current state of the business. When you really stick to your convictions and your passion, it ends up shining through no matter what someone thinks. Women can be so much more than what people imagine us to be. How do you feel about professional-only brands being sold direct to consumers?
I’m not going to look down on another business for what they choose to do. I believe our industry needs more indie-owned and hairdresser-owned brands because it takes the creativity to a different level. It’s not that I don’t want to reach the masses but I want to do it in a different way. 117 / hji.co.uk
We did a Super Bowl commercial in 2017. We were the first independently-owned professional hair care brand ever to advertise during the Super Bowl. I was at the game when it aired so I didn’t see it live but my social media blew up. We received a lot of recognition for the commercial and the creativity behind it. Who are your favourite people to follow on Instagram?
I mostly follow European and UK hairdressers. I love to follow those in the beauty, fashion and make-up industries too. I follow @huda because she’s so genuine and she’s fully behind her beauty brand. What’s next for you in your career?
We’ve just launched in the UK and we’ve sold over 35,000 bottles so far. We’re launching in Germany, Norway and Sweden next with the aim of being in 14 countries by the end of this year.
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
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ARE YOU AUTHENTIC, CREATIVE & PASSIONATE? JOIN OUR AWARD-WINNING TEAM VISIT TREVORSORBIE.COM/CAREERS OR EMAIL CAREERS@TREVORSORBIE.COM SALON LOCATIONS BRIGHTON - BRISTOL - COVENT GARDEN HAMPSTEAD - MANCHESTER - RICHMOND VARIETY OF POSITIONS AVAILABLE
Hanan Dashti Ladies Salon, Kuwait
HAIRDRESSER Job Description:
Requirements:
• Consulting with clients on
• High school graduation or GED
•
• Licensing from a cosmetology
• • • • • •
stylistic options for their hair. Listening to client needs to determine their preferences. Describing different hair care products and their benefits. Shampooing, cutting, coloring and highlighting hair. Performing scalp treatments. Building a personal relationship with clients to ensure return visits. Adhering to salon safety and cleanliness standards. Keeping updated on hairstyle trends and styling methods.
completion. school.
• Previous experience as a Hair Stylist or colorist
• A wide pallete of styling and coloring techniques.
• Proficiency with hot irons, curlers and blow-dryers.
Monthly Salary: Kuwaiti Dinar 600.00 with accommodation and transportation Commission Percentage: Monthly Income 0-1,999, 0%; 2,000-2,999, 3%; 3,000-4,499, 4%: 4,500-5,499, 5%; 5,500-6,999, 7%; 7,000 – 9%
HAIRDRESSERS. WELCOME TO NEW ZEALAND. Like to expand your horizons? Rodney Wayne is New Zealand’s leading hair salon brand. We’re looking for people like you. Email JadeU@rodneywayne.com or visit www.rodneywayne.co.nz/careers
Email: jennylyn@hanan-dashti.com 118 / hji.co.uk
re opport i JOIN THE RUSH FAMILY TODAY! 020 3474 4102 careers@rush.co.uk careers.rush.co.uk VISIT US ON STAND M140 AT SALON INTERNATIONAL For tickets to Salon International and Rush Live, visit www.salonshow.co.uk/rush
WINNER 2017/18 ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation
To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA
0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk
120 / hji.co.uk
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376
HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
PROPERTY
High Quality NEW Crystal Palace / Beckenham. Spacious Salon. Busy main road. Lease @ £16,500p.a. Tde £4,400wk. £39,500 NEW Wye Valley Country Town. Flagship Salon. Spacious Well Fitted Unit. Two Bed Flat. Tde £5,500wk (ex VAT). 5 days. £45,000 on Lease (or £495,000 F’hold) REDUCED PRICE Reading area - Growing Village. Smart Salon. New Lease. Staff run. Retirement Sale. £25,950 REDUCED PRICE Newbury area. Very Smart Hair and Beauty. Good Lease. Superb location. £4,250wk. Very fairly priced @ £29,950. Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Guildford area. High Class Salon. Quality fitted throughout. 12 styling positions. £5,000wk (5 days). Good profits. Owner retiring. £400,000 Freehold (or £49,500 with new lease) Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Reading area. Old Established Hair Salon. Good Class Area. Lease. Spacious Salon. Eleven styling positions. £2,500wk (5 days). £35,000
NEOCAPE Hair Products
THE EVOLUTION OF THE
HAIRDRESSING GOWN The Neocape range has solved an age old problem for you and your clients. Our gowns look, feel and perform differently: The unique collar with its attractive smooth Neoprene provides a comfortable seal against the skin stopping hair and liquids from going down the neck
TOWELS
The Professional’s Choice ...cut costs not quality. + Premium quality chlorine and bleach resistant cotton towels including the Guaranteed Bleach Resistant 100% Cotton Majic Black Towel. + Supremely practical and environmentally IULHQGO\ GLVSRVDEOH :DIŴH +DQG 7RZHOV Unbeatable pricing, compare us and see.
Each gown uses premium quality materials, is hand finished here in the UK and rigorously inspected for quality. This makes Neocape a sound choice for your business and a stylish addition to your professional equipment.
Place your order today: T: 0121 7739091 / 7720936 E: info@majestictowels.co.uk www.majestictowels.co.uk
, /MajesticTowels / @majestictowels
WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES?
web: www.neocape.co.uk ph: 01243 573417
Hairdressers Journal International
has a print circulation of 12,000 copies
SCISSOR SHARPENING
POSTAL & WHILE-U-WAIT SCISSORS SERVICE Professional Japanese hand sharpening
SCISSORS SHARPENING £18 CUSTOM NAME LASERING £18 inc. immediate return by 1st Class recorded delivery +£5 Next Day Delivery per order
Unit8 Hanover West, 161 Acton Lane, London NW10 7NB T: 020 8965 0585 www.dowa-international.com
GROUP
Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk
Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture
Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/
121 / hji.co.uk
INSPIRATION
Life Through a Lens T In The Mood
“I chose a lacy textured dress for the model and wanted to create that same movement in the hair. It took about eight minutes to create as I made a hair covered tube to keep the shape and then I wrapped it with pre-curled hair.”
S Mysterious Woman
“This image is taken from my first winning collection for the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, North Western Hairdresser of the Year category. It was inspired by the mysterious strength and fragility of womankind.”
Pat Wood
Award-winning hairdresser Pat Wood, who is celebrating 55 years in hairdressing, shares some of her favourite creations W Bella Donna
“In this collection I wanted to explore natural lighting to create a soft, sensual and feminine feel and to invoke a sense of intimacy. We shot on location in Spain, which was perfect for the look I wanted to create.”
X Dot Dash
“The inspiration for this collection was the backdrop in a window display at Harvey Nichols as I whizzed by in a cab. I contacted their art department and asked them to reproduce it for me. The combination of the backdrop, Issey Miyake clothes and the shape of the hair seemed to lift it off the page.”
X HJ Covers
“My first HJ front cover was with a young red-haired client in 1992. Before digital magazine layouts fitting your model between the ‘H’ and ‘J’ was a front cover requirement. I was the first to use two models on the front cover. These images were part of my first British Hairdressing Awards entry. After that I was hooked and over the next 15 years I had numerous finalist and winning collections.” 122 / hji.co.uk
T Pure and Simple
“This collection took a more consumer-led approach with simple, fresh and wearable hair. This image was really popular within the hair and beauty industry at the time.”
Craft cool browns
NEW IGORA ASHY CEDAR – IGORA’s strongest neutralising shades for coolest brown results – Dual application trend collection based on 4 IGORA ROYAL and 4 IGORA VIBRANCE shades www.schwarzkopfpro.com
Master balayage
NEW BLONDME PREMIUM CLAY LIGHTENER 350g Our 1st clay-based lightener with integrated bond enforcing technology for effortless free-hand techniques and seamless blonde results. www.schwarzkopfpro.com