The future of male grooming
SUMMER 2019
| hji.co.uk/men
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SUMMER 2019
CONTENTS he rising popularity of men’s beauty treatments hasn’t gone unnoticed at HJ Men HQ. But even we were shocked to hear that men have now surpassed women when it comes to their annual beauty spend. So we’ve forayed into facials, waxing and hair removal for our feature ‘Groom for Improvement’ on page 10 to show you how you can increase revenue by offering beauty services. Plus, discover the inspiring businesses who have jumped aboard the beauty band wagon. Elsewhere find out how to put together a collection for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Ross Charles explains the process from casting models to knowing when you’ve got the final images. Thinking about entering this year? Don’t dally as entries are open now. Go for it!
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Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7360 Managing Director Mark Moloney Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7363 Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7369
Charlotte Grant-West Editor HJ Men
Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7377
NEWS
Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7366
5 Find out why Prince William visited Pall Mall Barbers and who’s opened a barbershop in Primark
Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7373
FEATURES
Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7367
Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk 0203 841 7376 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk 020 3841 7365
PAPAS + PACE
Design and Production Sarah Eversfield
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9 Five new clipper launches you need to know about 10 We explore the grooming boom 14 The Big Debate: Walk-ins vs bookings 15 Deep Dive: Behind the scenes of an awards shoot
INTERIORS 16 OFF – CUT in Camberwell is barbershop minimalism at its best
Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk 020 3728 9062
FASHION 18 Andis: Model behaviour 22 Martin Fox: Light vs dark 24 Toni & Guy: Rebel with a cause 26 Kevin Luchmun: Refined and defined 30 Papas + Pace: Beauty and the beast
Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk 020 7351 0536 www.hji.co.uk M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza 535 Kings Road, London SW10 0SZ
PRODUCTS
24
TONI & GUY
Hair: Kevin Luchmun Make-up: Kelly Mendiola Styling: Mekel Bailey Photography: Patrick Seaman
33 Just try and resist this month’s hot launches
INTERVIEW 34 Barber Backchat with Sophie Collins SUMMER 2019 / 3
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
WITH THE BEST IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY
ENTER NOW Visit www.hji.co.uk/bha or contact Becca Painter on 020 3841 7365 MONDAY 25TH NOVEMBER 2019 JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR HOUSE, PARK LANE, LONDON W1
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NEWS
REX FEATURES
KEVIN LUCHMUN LAUNCHES ONLINE EDUCATION
Prince William visits London Barbers rince William visited Pall Mall Barbers in London last month to meet mental health campaigners the Lions Barber Collective. Founder Tom Chapman exclusively told HJ Men: “It was a huge honour to meet Prince William and show him the work we are doing. He made everyone feel at ease and the conversation was free-flowing. Mental health is a subject that he is passionate about and it’s amazing to witness someone of his calibre talking honestly about the subject.” Speaking on the topic of mental health awareness, the Duke of Cambridge said there is still a long way to go in the UK but he believes
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attitudes are changing. Research suggests barbers are in a unique position to help men with depression. A survey commissioned by the Lions Barber Collective and The Bluebeards Revenge revealed more than half of British men feel more comfortable discussing mental health issues with their barbers and hairdressers than their doctor. The Lions Barber Collective will be running a special one-day event at the Barber-Surgeon’s Hall in London on Monday 7 October. To find out more about the event go to thelionsbarbercollective.com.
BEST SHAVE 2019 Enver Yeshilbulut, owner of Kings Barbers Male Grooming in Deal, Kent has won the coveted Britain’s Best Shave 2019 competition for the second time. The competition was held during HJ Live London at ExCeL London with Enver beating off competition from seven other finalists to defend his title. He said: “It feels amazing. This is my passion and I want to thank my clients who allow me to do what I love every day.” The competition is run in partnership with the British Barbers’ Association and The Bluebeards Revenge.
Kevin Luchmun has launched a new online education platform called By Kevin Luchmun. It is focused around 12 video tutorials that dissect fashion-led men’s hair trends. Kevin has become influential in the male hair industry following his work as Toni & Guy international artistic director and his freelance career as an educator. The By Kevin Luchmun programme is tailored to all levels of ability and includes step-by-steps and the inspiration behind his looks. For more information or to subscribe visit kevinluchmun.com.
NEW BARBERSHOP OPENS IN PRIMARK Session hairdresser Joe Mills has joined forces with Primark to launch a barbershop in its new Birmingham High Street branch. The MILLS barbershop which opened in April aims to offer affordable hair services for men. The menu consists of cuts, wet shaves and facials and includes a coffee bar and retail area featuring Redken Brews products.
SUMMER 2019 / 5
BarbersRide is Back arbersRide returns this year to raise money for the Make A Wish Foundation, a charity that grants life-changing wishes for children with critical illnesses. The brainchild of a group of passionate barbers and bikers, BarbersRide is a five-day UK road-trip adventure. Eleven of the finest British barbers will feature in this year’s event which sees the motorbike tour starting in Liverpool at The Speakeasy Barbershop on Saturday 10 August. The journey will feature five intimate seminars hosted by in-demand barbers. The last evening (Thursday 15 August) will be hosted by Alan Beak at Ruger in Lytham St Annes and will feature special guest Simon Shaw. Swagger & Jacks, Blacksail Barbers, Savills and Baldy’s Barbers will also host seminar evenings during the tour. For more information and to purchase tickets go to barbersride.com/tickets.
CHRIS O’RIORDAN
GEMMA W
ITH ILLOCK-SM
NEWS
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New Wahl Academy Opens in Kent ahl has opened a state-of-the-art academy at its headquarters in Ramsgate, Kent. The brand is continuing its investment into education through six core course offerings, which cover the fundamentals in barbering as well as specialist training courses. Simon Shaw, Wahl’s global artistic director (UK) said: “The new academy is a great environment to learn with everything you need to further your education. From classic cuts to fade work and wet shaving, we deliver the essential skills with some of the best barbering educators in the world.” Visit wahlacademy.co.uk or call 01227 744 322 for more information.
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6 / SUMMER 2019
THE AMERICAN CREW ALL STARS American Crew has named the global finalists for its annual All-Star Challenge men’s grooming competition which will take place in New York in May. The entrants were challenged to deliver their interpretation of the American Crew man. The 15 All-Star Challenge finalists include Blade Pullman (Australia), Sandra Perovic (Canada), Fabien Tonicello (France), Chris O’Riordan (Ireland), Gemma Willock-Smith (UK) and Emma Jankowski (US). American Crew founder David Raccuglia said of the finalists: “With the American Crew brand celebrating its 25th Anniversary this year, it’s refreshing to see the finalists bringing their cultures, creativity and vision to an industry that continues to thrive.“
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Recommended by Kevin Luchmun, Official Panasonic Professional Grooming Ambassador
VISIT OUR STAND N2 AT BARBER CONNECT 2019 Try our products and join our live demonstrations with the award-winning Hairdresser, Kevin Luchmun* *Sunday 2nd June, stand N2. Other surprise appearances on Monday 3rd June.
10% OFF Valid on any Panasonic Professional Clipper and Trimmer T&C apply: Only 1 voucher valid per customer. Only valid at Barber Connect (2-3 June, 2019). Only valid at the Panasonic stand (N2). No cash alternative. While stocks last. Cannot be used after 3rd June 2019.
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CLIPPERS The all-in-one
The speedy one
Perfect for both trimming and clipping, the Andis All in One CTX Clipper/Trimmer claims to weigh 20% less than comparable tools. The 11-piece kit includes the CTX clipper/trimmer, four attachment combs, a blade guard, blade oil, blade brush, a hanger loop as well as UK and EU plug adapters. £59.99
The Oster Fast Feed Blade is now available to add on to the Oster 606-60 Pro Power Clipper, making it equivalent to the US’s renowned Fast Feed Clipper. The specially designed teeth are perfect for creating a seamless fade. £30+VAT
The weightless one The Panasonic 240g ER-GP81 is light but robust and boasts an adjustable dial that alters the cutting length from 0.8mm to 2mm in 0.3mm increments. It can be operated with just one hand while cutting. The sensor technology also detects the density of hair and controls the speed of the titanium blades automatically.
Keep your kitbag and your client’s hair in shape with these new clippers The one for thick hair Ideal for bulk removal and tapering, the Wahl Chrom2Style Cord/Cordless Clipper is light and easy to use. The chip-controlled motor maintains speed when cutting through thick hair and the Diamond Blade is 40 times more durable than the standard blade for a longer-lasting performance. £149.99+VAT
The multi-buy BaByliss PRO has brought together two of its must-have grooming tools in an exclusive collection. The Cordless Super Motor Clipper and the Super Motor Trimmer will be available to buy together as a duo in a sleek black chrome finish complete with a dual charging stand. £260 SUMMER 2019 / 9
TREATMENTS
Men are spending more on beauty treatments than ever before. HJ Men investigates what it means for the men’s hairdressing and barbering industry 10 / SUMMER 2019
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ale grooming is booming. Beauty treatments have gone from being a once neglected service to the norm amongst the male population. A number of surveys have been released over the past year, which demonstrate the popularity of pampering and male beauty treatments. In fact, men have now surpassed women on the amount they spend on beauty treatments per year. According to a survey by MINDBODY, a leading technology platform for the wellness services industry, gents are spending £3,366.35 annually, while
women are trailing behind on £3,059.91. Unsurprisingly, men are still spending more money on haircuts per year than any other service but treatments such as facials, manicures, massages and even scalp micro-pigmentation are also proving to be popular. In addition, another survey showed men are splashing the cash on male hair removal services. Mintel’s Shaving and Hair Removal UK 2018 report found that almost half of all men (46%) removed hair from their bodies. The good news is that all of these services can be added to a salon or barbershop as long as staff have the expertise and training.
TREATMENTS Hair today, gone tomorrow
THE BEAUTIFUL STATS
There’s a school of thought that argues MINDBODY’s The Real Price of Beauty in the UK report names economic insecurity and the stresses the below as the most popular of daily life have changed the way men and lucrative beauty treatments… function and how they want to appear. As competition for jobs becomes fierce and 1 Haircuts (£329.77) social media decides how we should look, 2 Massages (£214.77) men are searching for products and services 3 Teeth whitening (£188.27) to make them look and feel better. “Gone 4 Spa treatments (£185.91) are the days when a man would go to the 5 Hair styling (£184.46) pub to escape the daily stresses of life. Men 6 Waxing (£171) are now heading to their barbers to relax,” 7 Tanning (£168.27) explains Georgie Wynes-Devlin, co-owner 8 Pedicure (£167.61) of The Wild Hare in Tooting, London. 9 Manicure (£166.18) However, Gina Conway, who recently 10 Facial/peel (£165.84) opened The Barber Shop at her West London salon, believes it is the power of celebrity that has made male grooming appeal to the masses. “Celebrities such as waxes, which include the notorious ‘back, David Beckham and Zac Efron have made sac and crack’. But the latest man-scaping metro-sexuality mainstream. Keeping a trend isn’t about an “everything off ” tidy beard, having facials and getting waxed approach. Andy reports that a trim and a have become normalised.” tidy is regaining popularity. This is good It’s true that news for barbers and there is less stigma men’s hairdressers, as “Gone are the days around men getting it’s a savvy way to get when a man would go treatments. Carlie extra value from Firth, barber and to the pub to escape the your clippers. manager at Ruger in Andy firmly daily stresses of life. Men Lytham Saint Annes, are now heading to their believes barbers and men’s hairdressers are adds: “I used to be a barbers to relax.” in a prime position beauty therapist at a to tap into the hair spa and I personally Georgie Wynes-Devlin, removal market. saw a huge rise in founder, The Wild Hare “Male clients know men wanting beauty and trust their stylist,” treatments. I knew he says. “Smaller services such as waxing I had to jump on this trend before anyone fingers, the back of the neck, beard lines, else.” Inspired by this gap in the market, nostrils, ears and eyebrows can easily be Carlie worked with Alan Beak to add beauty treatments such as facials, massages, added to the end of a haircut or wet shave.” When it comes to hair removal equipment, anti-ageing eye treatments and manicures it can be relatively inexpensive to buy to the service menu at the second Ruger and won’t take up too much room. For barbershop opening in Lytham. example, you can buy mini heaters that sit on styling stations. Plus, training can be a Wax lyrical short process. “Training in facial waxing A male grooming discussion wouldn’t be can be completed in less than a day with complete without addressing the sticky many specialist schools such as Axiom Wax subject of waxing. Andy Rouillard, men’s Academy and Training Solutions offering waxing specialist and a Salon System educator believes exposure to hair removal standalone courses aimed specifically at barbers and stylists with no previous through social media, images in magazines waxing experience,” Andy explains. and reality TV has seen the smooth trend go mainstream. “Take the last season Waxing intimate areas is a different of Love Island – I don’t think the male ball game. A specialist course should be contestants had a solitary chest hair taken covering specific contra-indications, between them,” he points out. Andy cites aftercare, anatomy and physiology, back waxing as the most popular request, stretching techniques, hot wax application, followed by facial waxing (including client etiquette and personal safety, as well nostrils, ears and eyebrows) and intimate as tips on timing, pricing and advertising.
It’s not just the body that is on the receiving end of hair-removal treatments. The number of men removing hair from their eyebrows has risen from 33% in 2016 to 42% in 2018. Meanwhile, a fifth of Brits reported removing hair from their noses in 2018. The Wild Hare has jumped on the trend, adding nose waxing to its menu last year. “Men are nervous about nose waxing at first but when they see other clients having the treatment they want to give it a go. Plus, they love to see the wax stick with the hair that’s removed on it,” adds Georgie. This visual element of hair removal is something that can’t be ignored. Inspired by the popularity of pimple-popping and in-grown hair removal videos on YouTube, The Wild Hare post waxing videos on their social media channels to help market their service.
Hair loss SOS Scalp micro-pigmentation (SMP) is also growing in demand. A no-risk, guaranteed solution to hair loss, micro-pigmentation is a hairline tattoo administered by a trained SMP specialist. “SMP gives you the opportunity to earn between £500 and £2,000 per client,” explains Michael Koumis, owner of Scalpology, an SMP clinic that offers training courses. “It is great for a barbershop or salon because it provides extra revenue and increases client loyalty. You are changing a client’s life and boosting their confidence. They’ll be visiting you for two to four sessions to begin with and top-ups are advised every three to five years.” There are two options for people interested in Scalpology’s offering. You can become a scalp-referral centre (receiving a 10% referral fee for every client) or you can become trained youself.
GINA CONWAY’S THE BARBER SHOP
SHUTTERSTOCK
Why are men getting more beauty treatments?
SUMMER 2019 / 11
TREATMENTS When it comes to treatments such as facials, waxing and massages, there’s a debate about where men want to be slathered, waxed and oiled. Some argue that male-only spaces are preferred. “Male grooming can be an intimate experience so men want to spend their time and money in a place where they feel comfortable, such as a barbershop,” explains senior barber Dan Glass from barbering brand Murdock London. “Men want staff specially-trained to meet their grooming needs who can empathise with topics such as baldness, back hair and any uniquely male areas,” he states. RW Wolf, a brand with two barbershops in Cockfosters and Monument, has created a refined space for clients to get a classic wet shave, indulge in grooming treatments and experience modern styling. Founded by an enigmatic figure, known only as ‘The Wolf’, this disruptive brand has ambitions to become the go-to artisan barbers in London. “It’s not about creating a gendered, men-only space but a private space for our clients to relax,” states RW Wolf’s founder, who is rumoured to be a leading figure in the barbering industry. “We know that guys want to sink into a salon chair and escape from the world during their treatments.”
RW WOLF
Creating a ‘boy zone’
Similarly, at Gina Conway’s The Barber Shop, personalised skincare is a unique selling point. It offers everything from a quick barber cut to men’s nail services, hot towel shaves and facials. “Our personalised grooming service includes value-added Aveda rituals, all timed to suit the needs and schedules of a variety of different men and lifestyles,” Gina explains. Increasingly it’s not just the products that matter, it’s about how they are used and applied as well. For example, every grooming service at The Wild Hare is finished with a splash of the decadent Maison Martin Margiela Replica in Across Sands.
Bespoke packages
The beautiful conclusion
Another area that brands are embracing is personalisation. Clients have come to expect bespoke treatments and, in response Ruger in Lytham St Annes offers in-depth consultations. “We ask our clients about their grooming aims – do they want to look younger, more radiant or feel relaxed and we tailor treatments to suit them,” says Ruger’s Carlie. All the products that are used in-store are specially formulated by the brand. Ruger Skincare is a five-step routine (a cleanser, charcoal face mask, eye treatment, serum and moisturiser) which means the good work that happens in the barbershop can continue at home.
The incredibly sensory and almost old-fashioned barbering experiences that are happening in the likes of RW Wolf and The Wild Hare are undoubtedly having a resurgence across the UK and have become much more normalised in society. “A number of my clients have said they always wanted to try treatments like facials but didn’t feel comfortable walking into a salon or spa,” affirms Carlie. It’s good news that society, business and times are now changing. Whether it’s to relax, look good or a combination of both, male beauty treatments are no longer raising (perfectly plucked) eyebrows.
BEAUTY FOR BLOKES The professional male grooming brands and products to stock in your barbershop or salon
Blended with sweet almond, apricot kernel and avocado oils, as well as the brand’s signature ingredient hemp, 1922 by J.M. Keune Beard Balm makes beards feel soft and smell sweet.
12 / SUMMER 2019
Anti-Aging Daily Serum is the fourth step in Ruger Skincare’s daily regime. It contains rosehip and jojoba seed oil to reduce pore size and help minimise fine lines and wrinkles. £14.99
Salon System Multiflex Lavender and Aloe Vera is a stripless hot wax which can be removed in almost any direction for less pain and a more comfortable client experience.
With argan oil to help nourish the skin, Aveda Men Pure-formance Dual-Action Aftershave is a 2-in-1 moisturiser that gives lightweight hydration and oil control while soothing shaved skin.
Murdock London Made in England Face Scrub contains two exfoliating agents, pumice and jojoba, which gently cleanse pores to reveal fresh, cleansed skin. RRP £18
BARBERSHOP
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DEBATE
We discuss the pros and cons of walk-in and reservation policies FOR WALK-INS
AGAINST WALK-INS
“At MILLS we offer walk-in appointments. The biggest benefit of this is that it gives you the option to fill gaps. Plus, not all clients know in advance when they want to come in. Our location within the Primark store in Birmingham city centre means we have a large footfall so this informed our walk-in policy. We also allow people to book for a couple of hours’ time and we text a reminder 30 minutes before the time slot. As we are part of Primark, it means customers can drop-in, book a time for that day and go shopping. Our walk-in system works and it sits comfortably alongside our appointment option, which could be due to our prime location. I believe that barbers and men’s hairdressers lose custom by operating a reservation-only policy. Our method gives clients options and in the current climate that’s key. You need to be flexible with client demands – not everyone wants to pre-book an appointment. Personally, when it comes to loyalty, I believe that if you are delivering a first-class service, there should be no reason for clients not to return. The only time our clients may not return is if they are visitors to the area but this is also a plus as tourism means extra business. It can be challenging not knowing in advance how the day is going to go and how many clients you are going to have through your door. You need to make sure you have a team ready to go on the shop floor when it’s needed. At peak times clients might have to queue so we have magazines, books, a coffee shop and digital projector to keep them entertained.”
“The Ruffians ethos was built around being an appointment-based organisation. Our founder Andrew Cannon is of the view that men want from a barbershop what ladies have received from hair salons for many years – allocated slots that fit around their schedules. We didn’t look to other organisations for guidance on whether to be appointment-based or not. Ruffians was always single-minded in its approach to offering a particular type of service. Having said that we do get walk-ins and we take them when we’re able to, and we do try to be as flexible as possible. We also monitor how many walk-ins we are able to take on a weekly basis. When we have an average of 20 walk-ins per week (per shop) we know we need to employ additional barbers to meet the demand. When we get this number across all stores, we consider opening a new store. At the end of the day being able to book builds loyalty. We look at our client’s regular visits as building relationships with their barbers. Our clients and barbers enjoy the trust that comes from seeing the same person at regular times. We also use bookings to monitor the success of our business and to make sure that our staff are performing at a high level. For example, we monitor a barber’s retention rate as a way to measure their progression and our commission levels are linked to that retention. Personally I feel you can only measure staff service levels with an appointment-based system.”
“A walk-in service gives clients options and in the current climate that’s key. You need to be flexible with client demands because not everyone wants to pre-book.”
“We are of the view that men wanted from a barbershop what ladies have received from hair salons for many years – allocated slots that fit around their schedules.”
Joe Mills, owner, MILLS
Denis Robinson, artistic director, Ruffians
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DEEP DIVE The planning
Model behaviour
“In terms of finding inspiration for my shoots I keep an open mind and try to think creatively no matter what I’m doing. I often look to previous decades for inspiration. For example, my 2018 RECOIL collection (pictured throughout) references 1970s style.”
“I’ve recently set up a web page specifically to cast models. My goal is to create a bank of models that I have an excellent working relationship with. When casting it is important to consider not only the models’ hair but also their face because it can be a challenge to create a strong image with a model whose face doesn’t sit in line with the look you want to portray.”
The shoot itself “Don’t be afraid to experiment with different looks. I tend to shoot over a number of days. Some days I create two or three strong looks but on others I may struggle to create one that I am happy with so this way of working suits me.”
Team talk “I’m a trained photographer so on some of my shoots I also photograph the looks. I love having creative control. I’m lucky that my father is also a photographer so he has shot some of my collections. In terms of make-up artists, view an extensive portfolio first – make-up is crucial for creating a strong image.”
The final image “Realising you have a great final image is a feeling that is hard to describe. If you are only 99% happy with it and have a hunch that something could be improved, you should always trust your gut.”
Shooting stars Ross shares three tips to help you create an amazing collection
1
Don’t think a shoot demands a big budget. I’m resourceful so I often style shoots myself. I’m always spotting amazing pieces and I keep them stored for future collections.
2
Always play music on a shoot. It creates an electric atmosphere that boosts the creativity of your whole team.
Ross Charles of Ross Charles Hairdressing in York shares his process for creating a hairdressing collection for award season
3
Allow yourself time. I give myself room for trial and error because it’s unlikely that the first look you create will be something you love but you have to start somewhere. SUMMER 2019 / 15
INTERIORS
S South London barbershop OFF - CUT makes a clear case for simple yet elegant design 16 / SUMMER 2019
itting on the corner of a busy independent high street in Camberwell, OFF - CUT Barbers is a Scandi-style barbershop with a minimalist heart. Since opening in Autumn 2018, the barbershop has found its home amongst the style-conscious workers, visitors and residents of the South London area. “We wanted to create a barbershop that followed the rules of essentialism,” explains co-owner Danny Abbott. “For us, that meant stripping everything back to the bare essentials. We’ve made a space for barbers that enables them to create great
INTERIORS
FACT FILE Name: OFF - CUT Barbers Address: Camberwell Grove, Camberwell, London Owners: Danny Abbott and John Jones Size: 5 chairs Staff: 5 Design: Minimalist and Scandinavian
DANNY AND JOHN’S TOP TIPS • Search for the best deal Hunt around for quotes as you can always find things cheaper than they first appear. • Make sure everything is functional The central location of our reception desk means barbers can walk up to it and take payments easily. • Work hard We did a lot of the work ourselves to save money and we also wanted to make sure the finished result was to our high standard.
work and build a rapport with clients.” In keeping with this essentialist aesthetic, the interior of OFF - CUT features white-washed walls, resin floors, simple birch ply furniture and a striking black and red vintage motorbike that takes centre stage. The interior is simple but doesn’t feel bare. White, mid-grey and soft dark grey are the primary shades in the space and fresh green foliage stops it feeling clinical. The interior design was led by Pinterest boards and sketches by co-owners Danny and John Jones. John has been a barber since he was 18 years old and Danny has
a background in barbershop marketing. “We were very hands-on from the outset,” explains Danny. “We did everything from pouring the resin floor to white-washing the walls, painting the exterior and making the bespoke birch ply furniture. This kept costs down and ensured the finish was exactly what we wanted at every step.” Day strip-lighting on the ceiling creates a light bright enough for barbers to work efficiently, and the dual aspect and four large windows add to the light, bright and airy studio vibe. In fact, just like a studio the space is open plan. So from the moment a client walks through the door to
the final payment at the centrally-located reception desk, they are looked after by their own barber. It’s personal service like this that keeps clients coming back (and the resident dog might help too.) The waiting area is similarly sociable. A bespoke birch plywood bench is enough for five people to wait and there are a couple of matching stools that can be pulled out if needed. The bench offers a view of the whole shop and allows first-timers to see what OFF - CUT is all about – great service and perfect cuts delivered in a chilled and minimalist setting. SUMMER 2019 / 17
FASHION “JD is a model and an actor. This lived-in undercut fits his diverse schedule. It can be styled clean and slicked back for work or left tousled for those on-the-go moments.� Whitney VerMeer
CASTING CALL Andis gathered a group of actors, models and dancers to model its spring 2019 collection
18 / SUMMER 2019
FASHION
“I looked to each of my model’s professions and drew inspiration from their respective styles. Vinny [above right] is a dancer and one of the things I wanted to show was dancer-like fluid movement. I wanted to create two distinct styles with this haircut that could flow in either direction – I wanted the hairstyle to complement his dancing and not be a distraction.” Whitney VerMeer
SUMMER 2019 / 19
FASHION
Hair: Whitney VerMeer, creative lead of global education for Andis Photography: Whitney VerMeer
20 / SUMMER 2019
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FASHION
In the Shadows Softly styled hair is complemented by muted and moody lighting
22 / SUMMER 2019
FASHION
“I wanted to strip everything back, including the styling and lighting to put the focus on the shape and texture of the hair.” Martin Fox
Hair: Martin Fox Make-up and styling: Scarlet Fox Photography: Martin Fox SUMMER 2019 / 23
24 / SUMMER 2019
A collection full of attitude and colour that celebrates the drama of a seedy underworld
REBEL SPIRIT
FASHION
FASHION
“My collection was inspired by the film Only God Forgives. I recreated the blue and red lighting that is a prominent feature in the film and I wanted the models to look styled but masculine – just like the main character. The hair showcases striking shapes and silhouettes.” Jamie Devenish, artistic director, Toni & Guy
Hair: Jamie Devenish for Toni & Guy Make-up: Nicola Sian Styling: Manny Wongkaew Photography: Lel Burnett
SUMMER 2019 / 25
FASHION
Simplicity Rules Effortless yet precise styling reigns supreme 26 / SUMMER 2019
FASHION
“This collection was created to showcase my new online education concept ‘By Kevin Luchmun’. From textured crops to long layered bobs, the eclectic range of styles featured dominate current trends in men’s hair and give an insight into my fashion-led style.” Kevin Luchmun
SUMMER 2019 / 27
FASHION
Hair: Kevin Luchmun Make-up: Kelly Mendiola Styling: Mekel Bailey Photography: Patrick Seaman
28 / SUMMER 2019
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE early 20s, Liam served in the Coldstream Guards for 21 years before returning to a barbershop. When he left the Guards he found there was a lack of post-service opportunities. Barbering gave him a platform to build his own business, learn a professional trade and enjoy a life of creativity. The Bluebeards Revenge has a special relationship with the armed forces, especially as its managing director David Hildrew is himself a former Royal Marines Commando. The Bluebeards Revenge helps Liam and the Armour to Barber team by providing those who wish to pursue a new career in barbering with barbershop-quality hair, shave and beard products. The Armour to Barber team also show their support to The Bluebeards Revenge at industry trade shows.
Part 1: Sweet Charity
In the first instalment of our sponsored series we get to know the charities The Bluebeards Revenge has been working with that give back to the wider community
T
he Bluebeards Revenge works hard to support meaningful charitable causes. Since 2010 the brand has developed strong relationships with The Lions Barber Collective, Armour to Barber and Orchid Male Cancer. Here we find out more about these charities and the work The Bluebeards Revenge does to support them.
THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE This charity works hard to raise awareness around male suicide. Its Barber Talk initiative educates barbers on how to communicate with clients about mental health struggles and depression. The Bluebeards Revenge is dedicated to promoting and supporting The Lions Barber Collective’s amazing work around
male suicide. It has raised the charity’s profile with mentions on Sky News, The Lad Bible, The Huffington Post, The Independent and The Daily Mail. The professional male hair and grooming brand recently collaborated with the charity to create a specially branded hair gel. From every tub sold, 50p was donated straight back to the charity. The Bluebeards Revenge also rebranded the packaging of its existing range with powerful messages to spread the word amongst barbers and consumers.
ARMOUR TO BARBER Founded by former serviceman Liam Hamilton, Armour to Barber is a movement that offers advice and training to former armed forces members who wish to become barbers. A barber since his
ORCHID MALE CANCER Orchid Male Cancer is the UK’s leading charity working on behalf of anyone affected by male-specific cancers – namely prostate, testicular and penile cancer. It helps to save men’s lives through a range of support services, education and awareness campaigns, as well as pioneering research. The Bluebeards Revenge has worked with Orchid since 2012 and has made efforts to highlight the early warning signs of cancer. The Bluebeards Revenge has also created packaging with lifesaving information about male cancers and it has supported the charity at branded events.
EXCLUSIVE: YOUR PROFESSIONAL DISCOUNT WITH HJ Get 15% off your next direct trade order How to claim your discount: • Apply for an online trade account at bluebeardsrevenge.co.uk/trade and use code HJ15 at checkout. • Email trade@bluebeardsrevenge.co.uk and quote HJ15. • Call 01752 898 193 and speak to an account manager, quoting HJ15. Terms & conditions: • Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. • Can only be used once per customer. • Offer expires at 23:59 on 31/07/2019.
SUMMER 2019 / 29
FASHION
STRIPPED
BACK Hair is loose, natural and full of life “We Can Be Heroes is a collection that aims to highlight the hero that exists in every man. Each look lets the model’s character show through his mood, hair and aesthetic without relying on clothes, location or make-up.” Dmitri Papas, Papas + Pace 30 / SUMMER 2019
FASHION
Hair: Dmitri Papas, owner of Papas + Pace Photography: Steven Chee
SUMMER 2019 / 31
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
ENTER ONLINE NOW www.hji.co.uk/bhba
DEADLINE: FRIDAY 14 JUNE 2019 AT 5PM ENTRY ENQUIRIES: Contact Becca Painter on 020 3841 7365 or email becca@hji.co.uk SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown on 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk
#BHBA19
PRODUCTS
THE HOT LIST
Close shave
Brush up
Fuller and thicker
Perfect for ultra-close fades and shaves, Andis ProFoil Lithium Plus Titanium Foil Shaver features a soft-grip for more control and comfort. £84.95
The Bluebeards Revenge Travel Beard Brush is now vegan – its boar hair bristles have been replaced with a synthetic material. RRP £17.99
Ideal for fine and thinning hair that is in need of a boost, Redken Brews Thickening Pomade aims to make hair look fuller by adding density to individual strands. £16
Three in one wonder
Delightfully dishevelled
The perfect tonic
Barber Ivan Zoot and Denman International have created The Zoot Comb. It can be bought alone or as a set with guards. Single £10+VAT, set £12.50+VAT
Applied to dry hair, Grevious Bodily Hair Texture Man Texturising Paste gives definition and provides a matte, flexible hold. RRP £11.95
Reuzel Super-Sized Tonic is now available in a 500ml bottle. The Grooming Tonic delivers texture, while the Hair Tonic is perfect for refreshing hair. £15.39
Handy helper
Clay day
Barbering beauty
Perfect for when you’re doing intricate clipper work, the Head Jog Barber Grips hold hair in place whilst cutting. The grips are available from Hair Tools.
Best used on short to medium length hair, American Crew Matte Clay gives control and leaves hair with a non-shiny but polished finish. RRP £15.20
The Maletti Zeus Easy Barber Chair features a hydraulic pump, heavy duty frame and traditional barber style padding. From £1,450 SUMMER 2019 / 33
INTERVIEW
Welsh barbershop owner and The Bluebeards Revenge ambassador Sophie Collins reveals her love of speed and how she made it in a ‘man’s world’
H
ow would you describe yourself in three words?
Competitive, ambitious and funny.
What’s your biggest achievement so far? It’s difficult to choose between
running my own barbershop (Soph’s Barbershop in Gwynedd, Wales) and working as an ambassador for The Bluebeards Revenge. I help the male grooming brand to develop new products and promote the professional range at trade shows. I hope that female barbers see me as an inspiration as I want to help promote gender equality in our industry. What’s the last thing you do before bed? I scroll through Instagram and
check out other barbers’ work. I’m always keen to learn new techniques and trends. Who are your favourite barbers to follow on Instagram? I follow a
few but Barber Josh (@barber.josh.o.p) is one of my favourites. He makes cutting hair look like art and posts lots of inspirational quotes. What’s your favourite creation?
The ‘upside down skin fade’ I created for the NHF Blackpool Hairdressing Competitions in March. I wanted to create a haircut that 34 / SUMMER 2019
demonstrated my techniques. It shows off a fade working both upwards and downwards.
received? I was given a skiing
holiday for Christmas. Who is your biggest inspiration in life? My mum –
she is my rock and has helped me to believe in myself.
Do you have any hobbies?
If you could trade lives with anyone for a day who would it be? The Queen as
I race motorbikes in my spare time and I have done since I was just five years old. I also cut hair at the race meetings so I’m able to combine my two passions in life.
I’d be intrigued to see how she works. What hair product can’t you live without?
The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo – it’s the best. What’s the highlight of your career so far?
What’s your favourite piece of art? Sunflowers by
Vincent Van Gogh.
Quick fire round
Where would we find you at a party? By the
Cats or dogs? Dogs Chocolate or vanilla ice cream? Vanilla Dining out or eating in? Dining out City pad or country retreat? Country retreat Invisibility or ability to fly? The ability to fly would be incredible. Plain or spicy food? Spicy – I love a good curry.
gin – it’s definitely my favourite tipple. What’s next on your bucket list? I
want to start offering seminars so I can teach others and I’d like to employ more barbers. What’s the last gift you
Getting to the final of Britain’s Best Shave in 2017 and holding the coveted Welsh title for the Best Wet Shaving Barber in 2017 and 2018. If your office were on fire, what’s the one thing you’d save? My
handbag of course! What would you be if you weren’t a barber? That’s easy,
I would definitely be a motorcycle technician. Where’s your happy place? My home.
THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING
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