HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
The Secret to Client Loyalty
April 2019
£5|April 2019|hji.co.uk 0 4
9 770143 691236
LÔMÉ PARIS OFFERS HAIR PROFESSIONALS A COMPLETE R ANGE OF COLOUR, CARE AND STYLING PRODUCTS
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ULTIMATE STYLE. NATUR AL TOUCH. Exclusively available from
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in store
FRENCH GIRL STYLE 19 the brand shoot for the new lômé paris colour, care & styling range took place in november last year. lômé paris offers hair professionals a complete range of colour, care and styling products, exclusively available from salon services. Read on to find out more.
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“
After spending a few seasons at fashion week in Paris you really get to see how chic the French girls are. I wanted to portray that from very classic silhouettes and polished waves to the relaxed, cool girl hair you see.
dom seeley Celebrity Hairdresser
”
For Kate’s look we used Lômé Paris shade 10.21 and 30 vol Oxycream using textured foils and left to process for 40 minutes. The touch of a warm honey shade really brings dimension to the hair colour and emphasises Kate’s gorgeous natural curls. Our make-up artist, gave the girls a healthy glow, using muted tones on the eyes and lips and of course adding a classic cat eye liner flick.
“ ”
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barry jeffery Photographer
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jess grist @iseebambi Wardrobe Stylist
”
The looks created by the team are varied and unique, but one thing they have in common is effortless French style. From the honey brunette to the blonde pixie crop, the looks represent that Parisian look and feel which will never date. We’ve also introduced a copper tone to the mix to bring French girl hair in to 2019.
lômé paris is available exclusively from salon services. shop in store or online at salon-services.com. visit the blog for a behind the scenes look at the full shoot.
LÔMÉ PARIS OFFERS HAIR PROFESSIONALS A COMPLETE R ANGE OF COLOUR, CARE AND STYLING PRODUCTS
Exclusively available from
CONTENTS
April 2019 News
06
Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up
10
HJ Reports: HJ Live London The highlights from the HJ stage and the HJ Men stage
14
HJ Reports: L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Words of wisdom from the expert speakers at the UK business event
16
HJ Reports: Authentic Beauty Concept HJ discovers the latest holistic launch from Henkel
18
Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels
20
VAT Sorted Ryan Fox explains how to prepare for Making Tax Digital
22 23
Survival of the Fittest The essential steps to take when a popular stylist leaves your salon
26
The Debate Should you charge for coffee?
Business Panel This month’s topic is about making your salon eco-friendly
Features
27 37 43
Endless Creativity Discover the new advances and trends in creative colouring Colour Outside the Lines Meet the salons who are making their colour service work harder for them Here Comes the Bride Tap into the bridal market with the latest trends
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Business
60
48
Client Loyalty Discover the seven ways to encourage your clients to return
Inspiration
50
Fashion Seven exclusive collections
Regulars
66
Membership Offer Become an HJ member for a chance to win tbh – true beautiful honest products 4 / hji.co.uk
84
The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month
89
Interiors Take a tour around Rose & Wild Hair Concept in London
93
Careers Adam Reed shares the greatest achievements in his career so far
98
Life Through a Lens Take a look at Beverly C’s most striking and memorable pictures
EDITOR’S LETTER
10 Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360
S OBBARBER
Managing Director Mark Moloney
ROSE & W ILD
Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363
89
We l c o m e
Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369
Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377
F
or a third year running HJ Live London was at ExCeL London and the stages were jam-packed with many of the industry’s biggest names. Head to pages 10 and 11 for all the highlights. We have an exciting time ahead as entries for HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards open this month with a new category for 2019 – the Social Stylist category. This is for anyone who is a whizz at creating hype around their social media posts and translating this into business for their salon. We’ve also made the entry process online-only to make it simpler than ever for you to submit your entry. You’ll find everything you need to know on pages 76 and 77 and at hji.co.uk/bhba. HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional also opens this month. We are thrilled to announce we have two new categories this year. The International Hairdresser of the Year category and the Trend Image category. The Trend Image category is open to freelance, self-employed and salon-based hairdressers aged 30 or under and we will just need one single commercial and wearable trend-led look that your clients will be desperate to try in your salon. Go to hji.co.uk for more information and we can’t wait to receive your entries!
Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366
Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373
Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Event Manager Sharon Webb sharon@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062
On the cover: Hair Styling: Dom Seeley for Lômé Paris Styling: Jess Grist Photography: Barry Jeffery 5 / hji.co.uk
Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536
NEWS
INDUSTRY NEWS
The Rise of the Hair Styling Market
HJ Live London returned for a third year to London’s ExCeL in conjunction with Professional Beauty London on 24 and 25 February. The exhibition featured a number of brands offering exclusive show discounts to visitors. The HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, and the HJ Men Stage, in association with Wahl, had a full line-up with well-known artists and upcoming names. On pages 10 and 11 you’ll find the HJ and HJ Men stage highlights.
ghd’s new Global Head of Education ghd Professional has named Dafydd Thomas as its new global head of education. He will lead the brand’s education team on all aspects of training and education initiatives around the world. Dafydd said: “The way the industry is looking to be educated has evolved. I look forward to spearheading the development of ghd’s education to ensure we are leading that change!” Dafydd joined ghd three years ago as global education manager working on shows, shoots and seminars.
SHUTTERSTOCK
HJ Live London Returns to ExCeL
Hair styling product sales are expected to grow by almost 5% by 2020 according to a new market study by Future Market Insights with Europe leading the charge. Europe has over 20% of the total market value with the UK, Germany, Italy, Spain, France and the Nordic countries set for growth over the next year. The availability of skincare and haircare products and the purchasing power of consumers is expected to supplement the expansion of hair styling products across developing economies as well. A senior research analyst explained:
“The rapidly increasing number of salons and spas and the growing consumer inclination towards adopting recent hair styling trends will be the most prominent factors boosting popularity and sales of hair styling products across developing regions.” The research has found hair styling accounts for a considerable share of more than 13% within the haircare landscape and with the growing trend for chemical procedures and hair styling treatments the hair bond market is expected to rise in the coming years as well.
A Night of Fundraising T
he annual Hairdressers’ Charity Ball raised over £5000 through pledges and an interactive heads and tails game last month. Over 200 industry guests enjoyed the networking reception, three-course dinner, catwalk hair show and awards. The evening was also the perfect opportunity to launch the new charity campaign #InTheirWords – a series of short films featuring faces from the industry, including HJ’s Jayne Lewis-Orr, Laura Husband and Charlotte Grant-West telling the stories of the individuals that have benefitted from the charity’s work. The artists who took part in the catwalk hair show used the charity’s ‘Love and Passion’ theme as their inspiration. Guest artists included Nicky Clarke London for Wella Professionals, Brooks & Brooks for L’Oréal Professionnel, Tracey Devine Smith for ASP, Andrew Smith Salons for Wonderful Life, Simon Tuckwell Hair for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Nicola Smyth Award Winning Hair for Goldwell, Hairdotcom and Anne Veck Salon.
6 / hji.co.uk
NEWS
Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates
Spring Statement Update
The National Hairdressers’ Federation has highlighted the official Government changes you need to be aware of this month:
Business consultant Ryan Fox shares the positives and negatives for salon owners from the Government’s official Spring Statement.
The negatives for salon owners: • Changes to IR35 (anti-avoidance tax
legislation), which affect self-employed workers are aimed at large and medium
KH Hair Invests in Mental Health KH Hair has pledged to support its workforce with mental health training that will be delivered across its 21 salons and training academy. Joint managing director Darren Messias said: “We have seen a significant growth in the number of school leavers suffering from mental health issues.” The course is developed by Mental Health First Aid (MHFA) England and it is delivered by St John Ambulance. The idea is to teach salon owners how to spot signs of distress and start a supportive conversation. Darren believes it is essential to arm management with the skills to recognise the signs and symptoms of mental issues so staff can receive the appropriate support in the salon. Visit mhfaengland.org to find out how to book a course for your salon.
£8.21
SHUTTERSTOCK
The positives for salon owners: • The contribution for small companies to the apprenticeship levy is to be reduced from 10% to 5% from April 2019. • The personal allowance is currently £11,850 and it will rise to £12,500 from April 2019 and the higher rate threshold to £50,000. This means salon owners and stylists can keep more of their money before they pay tax. • Corporation Tax rates will remain at 19% in 2019 and fall to 17% in 2020. Great news for salons who are set up as companies as they will pay less tax. • The business rates cut of one third over two years from April 2019 for firms with a rateable value of £51,000, should be going ahead but this wasn’t mentioned. Check with your local authority to find out how much you could save.
Key Figures for April
sized organisations at this stage but are sure to filter down to small businesses eventually. • The Dividend Allowance is now only £2,000 and is likely to disappear from 2020. This means that a salon owner who takes dividends to top up a low salary will now pay 7.5% (over the £2,000) of it in tax if you are a basic rate taxpayer, 32.5% as a higher rate taxpayer and 38.1% as an additional rate taxpayer. • New Making Tax Digital requirements will start to apply from April 2019 starting with VAT payments. Businesses including salons over the VAT threshold will have to keep digital records for VAT purposes.
A 100-year Celebration
T
he Edward & Co and Taylor & Co salons in Brighouse are celebrating 100 years in business this month. Brothers Gary and Jason Taylor (pictured) are inviting local residents to a party to say ‘thank you’ for their loyalty and to raise money for charity. The original family business was started by Edward Taylor in 1919 and it has given training and employment to five generations of hairdressers. Today, Edward & Co is run by Gary and Heather Taylor and the original Taylor & Co salon is owned by Jason Taylor. Jason Taylor of Taylor & Co said: “Between us, we reckon we have delivered over three million haircuts, colours and restyles and we’ve loved every minute of it.”
The National Living Wage will rise to £8.21 for over 25s from 1 April 2019. The National Minimum Wage will be £3.90 for apprentices, £4.35 for those aged 16-17, £6.15 for those aged 18-20 and £7.70 for anyone aged 21-24.
3%
From 6 April 2019 employers must make a minimum contribution of 3% to each employee’s workplace pension scheme. Employees must make a minimum contribution of 5% as the minimum from both parties must be at least 8%. Employers can increase their contribution and reduce the amount staff need to pay as long as all contributions still reach 8%.
£148.68 Statutory Maternity,
Paternity, Adoption and Shared Parental Pay are set to rise from April to £148.68 or 90% of the employee’s average weekly earnings, whichever is lower. For those on Maternity Leave the new rate will apply once the employee has received 90% of their average weekly earnings for the first six weeks.
£94.25
This month Statutory Sick Pay will rise to £94.25 a week and employees must earn at least £118 a week to qualify. 7 / hji.co.uk
NEWS
London Fashion Week AW19 Hair Trends Here are four of HJ’s standout looks from the trends we spied backstage at London Fashion Week...
Kiss curls
Jewelled hair clips
Deconstructed ponytails
The morning after
Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals global creative director and ghd Fashion Week ambassador, created a ponytail and kiss curl combo at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. The look was raw, natural and imperfect perfection.
Hair accessories will continue to sparkle and shine into the latter half of 2019. At Erdem, Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel, created Tippi Hendren-inspired beehives and accessorised them with bejewelled clips.
The Toni & Guy Session team, led by international artistic director Daniele De Angelis, crafted ponytails with effortless texture at Cassey Gan. Overall the look was about an easy, yet feminine twist on a deconstructed ponytail.
The brief for the hair looks at Richard Malone was partied-out styles with a nod to the 1980s. Richard Phillipart for BaByliss Pro created the ‘messy mohawk’, where hair was teased, backcombed and crimped to create texture.
Zoë joins John Freida Salons John Frieda Salons has announced Zoë Irwin will be joining its team as creative director this month. She will be based at the Aldford Street salon from 8 April. She said: “I’m delighted and honoured to be joining John Frieda Salons. I’ve long seen John Frieda as the pinnacle of excellence in technique and customer service and it’s going to be a privilege to be working alongside creative colour director Nicola Clarke, vision director Gianni Scumaci and the rest of the talented team.”
The new Young Artistic Team
S
chwarzkopf Professional has announced the new group of recruits who will make up the 2019 Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team. The finalists were chosen by a panel of industry judges at Easton Regal Hairdressing in London. The day included creating a look within a time limit and presenting the end result to a panel of judges. The judging panel included HJ’s editor Laura Husband, John Spanton, the creative colour director at Trevor Sorbie and session stylist Peter Burkill. The new Young Artistic Team are: Mitchell Gough (Hensmans, Northampton), Molly Drummond (Hooker & Young, Ponteland), Sophie Perfect (Options, Chelmsford), Justine Weir (Tweedie & Marshall, Scotland) Olivia Bullivant (En Route, Wakefield) and Stephanie Stevens (Daniel Granger, Northampton). The new collection created by the previous Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team can be viewed exclusively on page 60.
8 / hji.co.uk
L’Oréal Colour Trophy has announced the 2019 Semi-Finalists L’Oréal Professionnel has announced the names of the semi-finalists for its annual L’Oréal Colour Trophy competition. The first round of judging took place at L’Oréal Professionnel’s Academy in London with 47 top names in hairdressing, including HJ’s editor, selecting their favourite images. The successful semi-finalists have moved on to the next stage of the competition – the regional semi-finals, which started in March and will finish on 10 April with the London Semi-Final. For more information about the competition or to book tickets go to lorealcolourtrophy.com.
THE
BOSSA PAUL STAFFORD COLLECTION Representing vitality, beauty, freedom and the spirit of big, bouncy curls. Explore our full range at denmanbrush.com
DHH3 HEAD HUGGER
D17 CURL TAMER COMB
FROM THE
GEORG
Creative colour was a key theme during the show. Thomas Hills and his team presented a deep pink crop, Davie Rae demoed rainbow hues on an updo and Georgia Bell printed the red HJ logo onto her model’s hair.
IA BELL
Micro trend: Creative colour
THOMAS HILLS
HJ Live London’s HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and HJ Men Stage in association with Wahl showcased the diversity of our industry from established award-winners to those performing on stage for the first time
LONDON’S CALLING
HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing
Jonathan Andrew Jonathan demonstrated a variety of trend-led looks on stage, including this pastel pink curled style. SAKS Art Team The team brought voluminous hair, such as these huge strawberry blonde curls to the stage with tips on how to create an impact on the catwalk.
Mahogany Art Team The team presented the brand’s Ed-torians collection. It featured contours and prominent disconnection with a mix of mint and blonde shades.
Headmasters Pro Artistic Team The Headmasters Destination Hair collection, featured tailored cuts, rich colours and soft styling. The looks were designed to ensure they can be worn by clients in the salon, such as this cool messy bun.
RUSH Art Team A catwalk-ready Afro style featuring a sleek root was presented by the Rush Art Team, as well as the graduated platinum blonde bob (pictured above) and the brand’s stunning Obsession collection.
10 / hji.co.uk
Toni & Guy British Hairdressing Awards 2018 winners Sylvestre Finold’s collection (pictured above) featured creative colours and quirky shapes. Philipp Haug presented graphic cuts and Gianluca Caruso demoed his on-trend styles.
HJ REPORTS
DAVID RAE
HJ Men Stage in association with Wahl
Outline Creative Team The Wahl ambassadors served up their trademark streetwear-inspired styles. Their show featured vivid colour, a platinum fade and a barbershop style on a female model.
DNA Art Space and Areté The two forward-thinking salon spaces showed four top-to-toe editorial looks with cutting-edge styling. The team said fashion is always a big factor in their client consultation process.
Wahl Artistic Team The team presented multiple shows across the two days. Highlights included ‘HJ’ hair art by 5ive and a slick cut and beard style courtesy of James Beaumont.
Updo: Reinvented
Clean sweep Swept back styles ranging from quiffs to full slick backs were out in force at the show
THE WILD HARE
Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms Alex Burt and Dan Lewis Hall, from the Brighton barbershop, cut and styled 1960s inspired looks with a feathered men’s style and a lilac short women’s cut.
11 / hji.co.uk
Y & GU
OBBarbers Richard and Stevie Ong, from OBBarbers in Newcastle, brought a surprise guest to the stage – Scotty T from Geordie Shore. The brothers styled Scotty’s hair with a natural wave which Scotty wanted to emphasise.
TONI
SARAI HAIR &
BEAUTY
WEZ JONE
S
DERS KAROLIINA SAUN
HARE &
BONE
Vivienne Howe – The Barberfly Vivienne took the audience on a journey through her career. She showcased four looks and produced a cut and finish live on stage.
JONATH
AN AND
REW
TROM GUY KREMER AND JONNY ENGS
From placing the focal point at the front to using ropes to hold it in place, the updo was given a variety of guises at HJ Live London
inspired by a longing for self-expression & authenticity, we reinvent colour as it is known today.
It’s tbh – true beautiful honest true illuminating the hair’s natural highs & lows beautiful shimmering powdery tones honest the approach to our formulation: up to 92% naturally derived ingredients, complemented by additional performance drivers
# C RE AT E # T O M O RRO W # T O D AY
HJ REPORTS
BAFTA PRESENTS
PORTFOLIO BAFTA was the beautiful setting for L’Oréal Professionnel’s UK Portfolio Salons Day. We saw hairdressers from around the UK and Ireland descend on this iconic location to listen and learn from a great variety of speakers Salon growth on the high street Opening the inspirational agenda was UK managing director, L’Oréal Professional Products Division, Beatrice Dautzenberg who thanked those leading the industry and demonstrating a truly pioneering spirit. “We would like to thank you for your input into the current growth of the beauty sector as a whole, particularly around the colour category which has been a contributing factor. The positive news is more salons are now opening than closing on the UK high street. As consumers demand experiences as opposed to services the social impact of hairdressing is being recognised with clients wishing to enhance their sense of wellbeing,” explained Beatrice. Provide an unforgettable salon experience Welcoming new portfolio salons from the UK and Ireland general manager Monica Teodoro looked at the art of innovation, reinvention and transformation. She explained that the world is now online and this new generation has moved from suffering from FOMO (fear of missing out) to JOMO ( joy of missing out). As a result they have become the ‘stay-in’ generation. “Salons need to rethink, readapt and reinvent themselves, offering services that can only happen in the hands of the professional. Whilst the sector continues to grow, frequency of visit has declined and consumers need
a reason to visit. Salons are the last bastion of the high street, building communities and connecting directly with consumers,” said Monica. “Great products and services are everywhere but great experiences are rare. Success is not final – it is the courage of continuing that counts.” Create a digital presence Expertise, professional knowledge, skill and personal interaction cannot be replicated at home. As the world has engaged digitally, beauty journalist Nadine Baggott talked about the importance of a digital presence. Allowing you to speak directly to your customer her advice is to show-off your skills, staff and services with transformation images and offer product advice and recommendations. She said sharing, commenting and liking other’s posts by having a digital presence will allow you to ask your clients directly what they want, which means you can give them more. The essential digital engagement campaign In a content-rich presentation, the co-founder of Dent Global, a business accelerator for entrepreneurs and leaders, Daniel Priestley explained the three core structures of a successful online campaign. He said this will ensure engagement and a way in which to delight customers as opposed to focusing on volume: • Have an annual big message – this is the overriding
14 / hji.co.uk
HJ REPORTS
message you want to deliver to consumers continually over the course of a year to ensure they have time, interactions and locations in common. • Create a quarterly campaign – engage with clients by featuring a product or event and continue this messaging for three months using the faces of your business. • Use the perfect repeatable week – generate leads and appointments every week. This activity needs to run from Sunday to the following Saturday to give you the engagement figures you need for success. Daniel referenced Google’s recent research and explained that businesses have seven hours, 11 interactions and four locations of brand exposure to ensure consumers know their brand. Can your clients see eight hours minimum of engaging digital content from your brand? Celebrate being different Monetising creativity was the focus of Cally Beaton’s presentation. She was the youngest and only woman on the ITV board. She talked about our three selves – the self that we convey to the world, the self we think we are and the self we actually are. She said: “I worked 150% to fit in instead of celebrating being different. We assimilate to what is expected of us and lose what is brilliant and unique about ourselves. Real equality is not possible if we don’t celebrate our differences and I would rather beg forgiveness for
being different than ask for permission to be different. Change gives us energy so embrace it, face it head on and be the best person you can be in your professional life.” The benefits of failure Baroness Manningham-Buller headed up MI5 from 2002 to 2007 through significant change following the 9/11 and 7/7 terror attacks. With humour and humility, she talked about two types of failure. The first type of failure is being culpable – where you have the power to prevent something happening but don’t. As opposed to having done all of the right things and making sensible decisions, yet the plan still fails. “If you don’t fail, you haven’t taken enough risks. In my opinion the best ideas come from new people with fresh ideas. Nurturing young talent is essential as they have great ideas and are not beholden to the ‘having always done it this way’ approach.” She added: “Communication is key to success combined with humour under pressure to make the team feel comfortable. You have to show a sense of warmth and care as you thank, praise and recognise individuals. Let people know you appreciate what they are doing and keep learning yourself as you never know it all. I never found it lonely being a leader and believe it is a strength to say – ‘I don’t know so let’s work it out’. Don’t take yourself too seriously as a leader as your team won’t take you seriously if you do. The team needs to know the reasons for the changes you are making and you need to communicate them effectively.”
15 / hji.co.uk
HJ REPORTS
AUTHENTICITY HJ headed to the German capital to find out about Henkel’s new holistic and vegan* professional haircare movement
RULES
L
ast month HJ was invited to Berlin to experience Authentic Beauty Concept, a new vegan-friendly*, sulphate and paraben-free haircare launch from Henkel. The premium line is targeted at an eco-conscious customer and the products will be rolled out to UK salons from June. The launch speaks to a new generation who are redefining the codes of consumption and beauty. Three years in the making, Authentic Beauty Concept comes at a time when there is a global move towards eco-conscious products. The brand even has its own clearly-defined manifesto that contains commandments such as ‘we believe authentic beauty is natural and simple’. With a yoga class, guided meditation and lifestyle advice from various wellness experts, the event aimed to bring to life the brand’s ‘authentic beauty movement’. Authentic Beauty Concept’s campaign images are built on a ‘no-filter’ aesthetic with images of models, photographers and yogis whose hair has been loosely styled. The Authentic Beauty Concept 16 / hji.co.uk
advocates are a collective of salon owners and session stylists who all share the same belief that real beauty is ‘perfectly imperfect’. HJ found out more about their individual values during a talk which took place in the evening. The products explained Split into four care ranges, the products are based on the needs of a client’s hair. The line caters for coloured, fine, dry or damaged hair and there is a shampoo that caters to all hair types. The styling range is built upon a ‘less is more’ approach and the products aim to invisibly enhance the hair. The products uphold the brand’s values of authenticity, pure formulas and a mindful experience. When it comes to eco-credentials, the brand supports the sustainable Guar initiative – a programme that enhances the livelihoods of thousands of small-holder guar bean farmers in India with a transparent value chain. Authentic Beauty Concept wants to start a new haircare movement where authenticity is applied from the beginning of the chain to the end.
HJ REPORTS
Create a mindful salon experience for clients The brand’s ‘authentic beauty movement’ is about creating a mindful experience. At the launch we saw an example of a ritual that could be performed in the salon:
1
Apply the brand’s perfume essence to the chosen hair mask and the client’s pulse points.
2 3
Massage the mask into the hair in long strokes.
Place a cooling eye mask over the client’s eyes and give them the option of putting on earphones and listening to a calming playlist.
Authentic ingredients The products are free from sulphate surfactants, parabens and silicones and the ingredients are primarily from vegan sources*. Extensive research has gone into the traditional uses of botanicals to choose the ones with the most efficacy. The brand uses a unique extraction method to create the purest formulas. The plant ingredients are surrounded with ultrasound waves to make them into concentrates. This is a gentle method, which preserves the plant’s benefits. The concentrates are distilled using steam to extract the true essence of the ingredients in an environmentally-friendly way. *All formulas are vegan, except styling products Gritty Wax Paste and Shaping Cream, which contain beeswax, and Amplify Mousse which contains chitosan. The brand aims to make these lines vegan by the end of 2019.
17 / hji.co.uk
Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news
Support for apprentice week e celebrated National Apprentice Week with online content to help you and your junior team members. It’s a W well-known fact that fewer apprentices are coming into the industry so we spoke to hairdressing favourites about how to keep and motivate the ones you have. We also asked apprentices to share what they think will be the biggest trends for 2019 and gave HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards Junior of the Year the opportunity to interview Sally Brooks, current British Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. You can check it out at hji.co.uk/apprentices.
HJ Interiors For our first interiors video of 2019 we headed to bebop, London’s Holloway salon. With a fresh and fun aesthetic there’s lots of pockets of inspiration to be taken from this space. Search bebop London on YouTube to watch the exclusive video.
18 / hji.co.uk
@hji
@hairdressersjournal
Hairdressers Journal
@hjinteractive
Social Shout Out
@benhards
Top Story 12 Hairdressing Careers not based in a Salon
I really like Ben’s grid because it provides a behind the scenes glimpse into his creative process like this image from the shu uemura campaign. Akesha, digital editor
ur most read article on site last month was ‘12 Hairdressing Careers that O Don’t Involve Working in a Salon’. If you missed this feature in print you can read it online and get clued up on the multiple opportunities that could be waiting for you. Go to hji.co.uk/careers.
@andrewsmithsalons Andrew Smith recreated the Hairdresser’s Charity logo in the form of a purple heart hairpiece to celebrate last month’s ball. It’s just incredible! Laura, HJ editor
#BHBA19 HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards 2019 is open for entries.
This year we’ve added a few exciting new categories and made important changes to the entry process to make it even easier to enter. For everything you need to know, including key dates and FAQs, head to the events section of our website. 19 / hji.co.uk
@andrewotoolestudios Photographer Andrew O’Toole’s grid never fails to send a tingle down my spine. I love this whimsical yet beautiful image. Charlotte, HJ content editor
SHUTTERSTOCK
BUSINESS
Making Tax Digital is Here Salon consultant Ryan Fox explains the rules for submitting VAT returns which come into effect this month and how this will affect your salon
Dispelling the myths Tim Good from Absolute Accounting Software trains accountants on Making Tax Digital. Here he dispels the myths to ensure your software is compliant with the new rules: Q. Do I have to use special bookkeeping software from April 2019? A. No. Excel and other digital methods of recording transactions will continue to be acceptable. Q. Do I have to send details of all transactions to HMRC from April 2019? A. No. Only the same data as currently sent to HMRC will be sent under MTD for VAT. Q. Will I be able to continue to use Excel beyond April 2020? A. Yes. HMRC will continue to allow the use of Excel beyond 2020. Q. Will I have to record transactions digitally every day instead of weekly, monthly or quarterly? A. No. The record keeping requirements state that transactions should be recorded digitally before the VAT return for the period is filed. Q. Will I have to record every sale (cut and finish, blow dry and colour) separately? A. No. You can continue to record the daily gross takings figure rather than individual sales. Tim has developed a HMRC-compliant bridging software called Excel MTD VAT Filer that links Excel spreadsheets to HMRC.
M
aking Tax Digital (MTD) comes into effect in April, which means the VAT returns in your salon will need to be submitted electronically. Here’s what you need to know to comply with the new rules.
?PW _QTT JM IЄMK\ML Ja \PM VM_ 5ISQVO <I` ,QOQ\IT Z]TM[' All UK-based businesses who are VAT-registered and have a turnover of £85,000 or more must comply with the new rules whether you are a sole trader, partnership, LLP or limited company. As a result this will affect a large proportion of salons. If your turnover is less than £85,000 excluding VAT (£102,000 including VAT) and you are not registered for VAT or you have chosen to register for VAT on a voluntary basis, you don’t need to change your process unless you go over the threshold. If your company is on the Flat Rate VAT scheme you don’t need to keep a digital record of your purchases unless they are capital expenditure goods on which input tax can be claimed and you don’t need to keep a digital record of the relevant goods used to determine if you need to apply the limited cost business rate. Once within the scheme you must remain in it while you are VAT registered, even if your turnover falls below the VAT-registration threshold.
?PMV _QTT 5ISQVO <I` ,QOQ\IT JMKWUM KWUX]T[WZa' Making Tax Digital for VAT comes into effect from April 2019 and applies from the start of your first VAT return period or after 1 April 2019. However, for the first 12 months, HMRC says it will not enforce the digital link requirement to give firms a chance to get used to the new rules and to put compliant systems in place.
?PI\ _QTT \PM KPIVOM[ UMIV NWZ aW] IVL aW]Z [ITWV' The changes mean you need to store all VAT-related records digitally. You must use HMRC-approved software to transmit quarterly returns to HMRC’s new API platform which you must be registered to use. You will not be 20 / hji.co.uk
VAT return quarters MTD start date Ending 31 March, 30 June, 30 September, 31 December
1 April 2019
Ending 30 April, 1 May 2019 31 July, 31 October, 31 January Ending 31 May, 31 August, 30 November, 28 February
1 June 2019
able to continue to use the existing Government Gateway unless you are under the threshold. There are three ways of doing this: • If your accountant does your VAT returns they will have MTD-approved software and will do this for you. You should ask your accountant if you will need to change the way you record and supply the information to them in order to comply. If you send an email to your accountant with your VAT records this is an acceptable digital link as long as your data is then uploaded into API-compatible software at your accountant’s office. • If you submit VAT returns yourself and use accounting software, you should check with your software supplier if it is MTD compliant and if you need to do anything differently. • If you submit VAT returns yourself you can either purchase a full accounting software package or use spreadsheets which you may already be doing. In this case you will need to purchase some ‘bridging software’ that is API-compatible and approved by HMRC to link the spreadsheets digitally. This is cost effective and once set up it will link your spreadsheets directly to HMRC.
Ryan Fox is a salon consultant who provides accountancy services to salons. For more information on Ryan’s salon accounts service please visit umbrellaconsulting.co.uk.
SPONSORED BRANDS
MEET TANGLE TEEZER’S NEW HAIR SQUAD angle Teezer revealed its first ever hair squad during the TTangle launch of the Fine & Fragile, which completes the iconic Teezer detangling collection. The range already includes The Original and Thick & Curly so the brand is proud to offer a hairbrush for all hair types. The five authentic users of Tangle Teezer's detangling hairbrushes are well-known social influencers with different hair types and different digital audiences. Each member of the squad uses the brand’s hairbrushes on a daily basis and they each have their own personal Tangle Teezer story to share. The squad features beauty journalist Nadine Baggott, The Only Way is Essex star Lauren Pope, natural hair vlogger Farida Sharma, Sophie Hannah Richardson, who loves to experiment with hair colour on Instagram and Lydia (@WhatLydiaLikes) who creates updo videos on YouTube. Nadine was one of the first to try Tangle Teezer and she’s never looked back. She’s in her fifties and has experienced hair thinning so her go-to hairbrush has become the new Fine & Fragile detangling hairbrush.
HAIR DEVELOPMENT ANNOUNCES £100,000 COMPLIMENTARY COLOUR RING CAMPAIGN
BOOST APPRENTICE RESULTS AND ENGAGEMENT WITH MHD
M
Lauren has her own hair extensions company and loves The Ultimate Finishing hairbrush because it is gentle on extension bonds and blends hair extensions to her natural hair. Farida creates natural hair treatments from her kitchen cupboard and swears by the Thick & Curly detangling hairbrush because it saves her spending hours every day trying to detangle her hair. Finally, both Sophie Hannah and Lydia have social followings who love to watch them creating hair styles and hair colours on a regular basis. This means it is essential for both of them to use a hairbrush that leaves their hair smooth and shiny, which is why they love Tangle Teezer. The new member of the Tangle Teezer range, Fine & Fragile hairbrush is available to be stocked in salons. It is designed to reduce breakage and it is recommended by trichologist Iain Sallis and the International Trichology Congress. For more information about Fine & Fragile and the new hair squad go to tangleteezer.com.
HD’s ambassador Edward Hemmings of Alan d Hairdressing Education has seen advances in apprentice engagement and end point assessment results since bringing MHD’s online hairdressing training to his training academies. He believes the interactive platform has forged closer links with apprentices and salons. He explained: “Salon owners can login and see what their apprentices have been up to, which means they can tailor training based on what’s been covered that week in the academy.” MHD believes the connection between salon owners and training providers is crucial for getting the best results from your students. MHD's PLAYLIST technology enables salon owners and training providers to create bespoke learning programmes which empower apprentices to achieve to the best of their ability. Leading salons around the globe use MHD to support apprenticeships and fill salon skills gaps. To trial the platform for free for 48 hours go to myhairdressers.com.
Hair extension supplier Hair Development has launched its biggest ever extension promotion in its 50-year history. The £100,000 campaign, which started in December and ends in April, is focused on sending a selection of UK extension salons a complimentary colour ring. The colour ring would normally cost £52.95 and is being given to salons as a complimentary introduction to the hair extension company’s hair range. Managing director Mark Burns said: “As a company we have never pursued fame for ourselves, quietly supplying, manufacturing and branding for the industry. We know our HD hair is high quality and we want more salons to offer the best to their clientele.” "The campaign is designed to introduce the company’s Supreme Quality Loose Bulk Hair extensions to experienced extensions salons. The aim is to show salon owners that superior quality hair extensions are available from a trusted and reliable company in the UK,” added Mark. Hair Development continues to supply the industry with the finest hair extensions and hair replacements and the company is proud to be recommended by The Trichological Society. For more information about Hair Development go to hair-development.com or call 020 7790 4567.
21 / hji.co.uk
SHUTTERSTOCK
BUSINESS
Survival of the Fittest Follow Liz McKeon’s essential steps to ensure your salon business will continue to thrive even if your busiest stylist decides to leave
W
hen your busiest stylist tells you they are leaving, it’s natural to take it personally. Remember you have a business to run and clients to keep so stay positive and focus on your salon. Here are the five steps you need to take:
all of your 1 Contact stylist’s clients
It is preferable your salon’s clients hear the news directly from you and it gives you a chance to book them in with another stylist. If you cannot contact them by phone, a letter or email is another good way to get in touch. A text is short and impersonal so it may look like you don’t want to secure their custom.
what to say to 2 Consider the stylist’s clients
Stay positive and keep the message simple. Remember your ex-stylist’s clients are your salon’s clients. The client doesn’t need to know the details, just that you will continue to look after them at your salon. Acknowledge that you are sad to see the person leave but you wish them all the very best. Then bring the conversation back to them and their next appointment.
3 Manage the gossip
Do not let your team gossip to clients. Give them instructions about what to say. If necessary give your team, including your reception staff, a script to follow so they have a rehearsed response ready. Some clients may feel a little let down so it is important to manage the situation.
4 Track your social accounts
Keep an eye on your social media accounts, just in case clients are being poached via this channel. Now is the perfect time to increase your own marketing and shout about your fantastic salon.
5 Pull out all the stops
Do everything you can to keep your clients but if they follow the stylist don’t give up – continue to market to those clients and make it easy for them to return to your salon. You are an amazing entrepreneur and this is just a bump in the road. In no time at all your salon will be back on track because everybody is replaceable. If the departing employee agrees to an exit interview, this is an opportunity not to be missed as it will allow you to take on board their suggestions and learn from the experience. 22 / hji.co.uk
The insider’s guide to an exit interview
• It provides an opportunity to
make peace with the disgruntled employee. • Existing staff will see it as a positive exercise. • It provides relevant and useful data for future training. • The process could give you the chance to retain your busiest stylist. • Receiving and handling feedback is a powerful development process for you as a salon manager. • It is a unique chance to survey and analyse the opinions of departing employees who will be more forthcoming, constructive and objective than existing staff members.
Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.
BUSINESS PANEL
How can you make your salon eco-friendly? To celebrate Earth Day on 22 April, this year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards winners discuss the steps they are taking to be more environmentally aware in the salon and the importance of sharing this message with clients
Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year
Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design
“Respecting the environment is deeply rooted in our DNA. Our salon features reclaimed furniture, recyclable paper and eco-friendly products. This allows us to be committed to the environment. We have a strong brand message and the team are educated on eco-friendly choices. We’re living in an era that encourages an eco-conscious attitude and small changes in buying habits and branding material can make a big difference. Market your eco approach to clients as it’s a unique selling point.”
“We use an electricity provider that generates its supply from green energy sources. We use eco-friendly backwash shower heads, which use up to 40% less water and produce a higher pressure. We ensure as little waste as possible goes to landfill. We wash all of our towels internally and use eco-friendly washing powder with an eco wash cycle. We spin our towels on the highest setting to reduce drying time. Finally, we offer product refills rather than bottles.”
Christian’s steps to success: ∞ We have a no plastic policy so we
only use recyclable bags. ∞ Focus on creating a positive team spirit to ensure everyone is behind the philosophy and make it part of your brand identity and ethos. ∞ Use eco-friendly products such as Matrix Biolage Raw – it contains 95% natural origin ingredients.
Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ Research the eco credentials of
your current electricity supplier. ∞ Replace your backwash shower heads with ones that use less water. ∞ We’re launching the botanic bar which allows clients to pump their own organic shampoo and conditioner. The products can be refilled up to three times to reduce the amount of plastic.
23 / hji.co.uk
Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2 “It is very difficult to make an existing salon business eco-friendly. This should be a fundamental consideration when designing a salon from scratch. Unfortunately it is not always possible to make the design eco-friendly due to building restrictions and other such issues. In saying this, every salon can take steps to become more eco-friendly. Disposable towels, LED bulbs, turning the heating down and being mindful of water usage can all make a big difference.”
Phil’s steps to success: ∞ We offer a discount on products
when a client returns old bottles to be recycled. We’re also launching our own haircare range which is made from recycled plastic. ∞ We’re in the process of setting up a cycle ride-to-work scheme. ∞ We’ve introduced an Earth Hour where we dim the lights and turn down the heating for the first and last 30 minutes of the day.
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1
Name: Mimi Kobayashi Salon: Billi Currie Award: Salon Stylist of the Year
“We’ve built a sustainable workplace where we aim to create and consume with care. During our salon design process we sought out recycled and reclaimed materials wherever possible. Implementing eco initiatives while considering practicalities and the client experience has become critical.”
“As a company we recycle as much as possible. We encourage each other not to waste anything. We ensure taps are switched off between shampooing and conditioning a client’s hair. We also use environmentally friendly care and styling products which are biodegradable.”
Natalie’s steps to success: ∞ Educate guests on energy saving
hairstyles such as braids, dry styling and wet-to-dry hair sculpting that require little or no heat styling. ∞ Use techniques to minimise foil usage such as balayage, hand painting, colour blocking and melting. ∞ Educate guests on how to do an eco-shampoo at home to prevent excessive water usage.
Name: Steve Rowbottom Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award “We endeavour to maintain environmental awareness across our nine salons and educational academy in Leeds. At Westrow we are always looking at ways we can evolve the business to be kinder to the planet and to share this message with our clients ”
Steve’s steps to success: ∞ Incorporate potted plants into your
salons – the oxygen produced will help to balance out carbon dioxide emissions. It also looks aesthetically pleasing and clients will comment. ∞ Wait until your washing machines are full before using them. This will conserve energy and water while reducing salon CO2 emissions. ∞ Ask staff to turn off lights in the staff room or any area that is not in use. Install dimmer switches where you can use softer lighting or motion sensors for storage and staff areas.
Mimi’s steps to success: ∞ We have recycling bins as well as
rubbish bins to recycle as much as possible and we only stock paper bags in the salon. ∞ We use the evo Fabuloso Pro care and styling brand because all of its products are sulphatefree, environmentally friendly and completely biodegradable. ∞ We make sure the washing machine is always used on a cool setting and we use the shortest wash time.
Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “I implement practises that are good for the environment and save money. I have posters around the salon to remind staff that we are an eco-friendly salon. The posters say: ‘do you really need to have two boilers on?’, ‘do you need the air con on?’, ‘switch off the light, turn onto green’. We also have a poster to remind staff to mix only the amount of tint required and our final poster tells staff to turn off the water when shampooing to save 50% more water.”
Janet’s steps to success: ∞ Explain your ideas are good for
business as well as the environment. ∞ Use posters to remind staff to be eco. ∞ We ask clients to bring in old towels and blankets and collect bras for the ‘Smalls for All’ campaign. We also collect toys for a women’s refuge.
24 / hji.co.uk
Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year “It’s really important to do all we can to reduce our carbon footprint and there are lots of easy steps you can take to ensure your salon runs in an eco-friendly way. We use Easydry towels, which are recyclable and biodegradable. We also re-use them as cleaning cloths and we have a big recycling bin to ensure all our product packaging is recycled. Cutting up our skin stain wipes helps them to go further, while also saving money. Our salon is housed in a large building with old sash windows so we give out hot water bottles to keep clients cosy, instead of blasting the heating out. It’s a personal touch that clients really appreciate. Finally, we ensure that tint waste always goes in the bin instead of down the drain.”
Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ Stock hot water bottles for your
clients as they will appreciate the personal touch but it will also reduce your energy output. ∞ Provide recycling bins to ensure everything in the salon that can be recycled is being recycled by all of your staff members. ∞ If there’s anything you can re-use in a different way, such as Easydry towels, or adapt, like cutting up skin stain wipes, do it. It’s such a tiny step but it will make a big difference in the long run.
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
TIGI PRESENTS
Why you should visit tigifuse.com • Free education • Step-by-steps and tutorials • Trend inspiration • Product hints and tips • Stories from TIGI’s partners
The colour and styling brand unveils its new digital platform for inspiration and education
T
IGI Fuse is a new digital platform curated by Anthony Mascolo to bring together experts and influencers within the industry. It provides hairdressers and salon owners with the information and education to inspire creativity, build salon businesses, develop services and enhance technical skills. The ethos behind TIGI Fuse is to make education accessible to everyone. The platform is committed to providing free education for every hairdresser but education is only part of what’s on offer. TIGI Fuse features new and iconic technical step-by-steps, it dips into the TIGI archives, talks trend inspiration, shares the latest TIGI Copyright Colour and Care product information as well as tips and stories from TIGI’s partners. An online collaborative space TIGI Fuse is about building an online collaborative space, mixing insights from Anthony Mascolo and the TIGI creative team with other influential hairdressers and creatives. It’s an open-forum for knowledge to
help hairdressers unlock their potential while championing the profession. Most of all it delivers content with an editorial, digital-first approach for today’s content-hungry hairdresser. “The idea for TIGI Fuse was sparked by my work on Infringe, which is a website and magazine my wife Pat and I launched in 2017. We have so much content at TIGI to share but we can’t communicate everything we produce. In fact, we’re the industry’s best-kept secret,” explains Anthony. He adds: “Fuse will enable us to show everything we do from films and step-by-steps to our work behind the scenes and the fantastic collections of people with whom we work and collaborate. Fuse will allow us to work with TIGI’s partners globally, sharing their work and their vision. In today’s digital world information is so quick and when it comes to getting it out there, we need to stay on top. I think Fuse is the perfect platform for us to do that.”
Visit tigifuse.com to see the brand new education and inspiration platform 25 / hji.co.uk
BUSINESS
The Debate
Should you +PIZOM NWZ +WЄMM' Two salon owners discuss the pros and cons of giving clients complimentary beverages NO
“The cost of running a salon has increased so we need to consider different ways of generating extra revenue. In my opinion, it’s perfectly reasonable to offer a complimentary first drink. After that, you could provide clients with a price list if they would like further drinks during their appointment. Your client might feel more comfortable asking for another americano if the menu has a wide variety of options. I’ve even considered hiring a barista to look after our guests. This would mean our team could focus on the quality of the hair service. Customers are happy to pay for quality so why shouldn’t we charge and make it part of our business? We want to cater to all of our client’s needs, however their needs are increasing daily. Vegan diets are growing in popularity so we offer skimmed milk, semiskimmed milk, soya milk and lacto milk. We have brown sugar, white sugar, sweeteners, cubes, sachets, fruit teas, mint teas and green tea. We also have prosecco, wines and beer – the list is endless. We have napkins and fancy latte glasses, we have wrapped biscuits, chocolate mints and sometimes we offer fruit and croissants. All of this is a luxury and it costs us money to supply clients with all of this choice. At The Hair Business we’ve always used the best products and invested in our training and customer service. Offering a coffee was originally a token gesture but it is now an expectation. We need to manage our businesses with growth in mind and keep our standards high. All of this needs to be sustainable so that we can continue to employ people as well as train and develop those wishing to join our industry. There is no doubt in my mind the coffee industry is growing all around us and we need to be part of it. As they say, every little helps.”
“We pride ourselves with a high level of customer service and to charge for a coffee would simply be insulting for us and the client. It is fair to say with rising costs, business rates and all that comes with running a salon, money needs to be recovered wherever possible. Your salon’s postcode should dictate the cost of your services, however, the price of coffee is the same wherever it is made. Your salon has only one chance to impress a new client so at what point during the client’s visit do you inform them of the charge? Do you tell them at the start and say: ‘Hello how are you today, would you like a coffee and just to let you know there is a charge for all beverages’ or do you tell them at the end and say: ‘Your bill today is highlights, cut, toner, shampoo, conditioner and a coffee’? We take great care in sourcing delicious beverages and the way they are presented should have as big a wow factor as the hair service the client is receiving. The cost is minimal compared with the satisfaction a complimentary beverage service can provide. Hairdressing is such a personal experience. Our clients place their trust in our hands and making them feel relaxed is part of that experience. Small details like an artisan coffee or a special tea gives your customers a moment in their day to take a deep breath, reflect and relax. Little touches like coffees and free in-salon treatments are what will keep your clients coming back time and again. We have always held the value that our salons are a home from home. Our décor was inspired by interior design magazines as opposed to a clinical laboratory. Every client is treated like a guest in our salons and you wouldn’t charge a guest in your home for a cup of tea so why would you in your salon?”
Leigharne Philips, salon director at The Hair Business, Cowbridge and Penarth
Robert Kirby, salon owner of Robert Kirby London, Balham and Wimbledon
26 / hji.co.uk
SHUTTERSTOCK
YES
COLOUR
GET CREATIVE Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to think outside of the box and to encourage your clients to expand their colour horizons HAIR: PAUL MITCHELL 27 / hji.co.uk
MUTED METALLICS COLLECTION A DREAMY PLAY ON PASTELS A trio of luminous shades from Paul Mitchell® The Demi featuring Lavender, Rose Gold and Silver offer stylists enchanting hair colour options for their guests. These new diffused shades can be used individually for an all-over trending tone or applied with multiple shades side by side for seamless creative colour.
100% Vegan Offers trend-led and wearable colour for salon guests with tonality lasting up to 4-6 weeks No ammonia, demi permanent gloss that conditions and adds shine while it colours.
• AFFORDABLE LUXURY • CRUELTY FREE • PROFESSIONAL ONLY Find us on
and
at Paul Mitchell UK
Available exclusively from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011
SUPER SILVER
MASK An intensely hydrating, sulphate free treatment mask infused with super violet pigments to replenish lost moisture and neutralise unwanted yellow tones. Leaves blonde, grey and bleached hair feeling nourished, healthy and more radiant.
www.osmo.uk.com
COLOUR
CREATIVE COLOUR People are thinking outside of the box when it comes to their hair colour, which is exciting news for colourists. Here’s how to inspire them for the new season
PAUL MITCHELL
– SS19’S NEW MUST-HAVE ACCESSORY
I
ncreasingly women (and men) are viewing hair colour as their latest fashion accessory, switching up their hair as frequently as their handbags. “I believe the seriousness of the world we live in has led to fashion and hair becoming more colourful as it helps us to get through these dark days,” hypothesizes Warren Boodaghians, TIGI European technical academy director. History does indeed show that uncertain times mark a boom in creativity. Paul Callaghan, Crazy Color brand ambassador, has a similar theory: “We have learnt to embrace our individuality and experiment with our creative sides.” It also helps that society’s perception and the quality of vibrant colours have improved. “There used to be a stigma around creative colour, especially in the workplace but now if it’s done well, it can look expensive and beautiful,” confirms Francesca Dixon, creative colourist at Hari’s for L’Oréal Professionnel. Read on to find out the latest creative colour trends from metallics to the ‘colour clouds’ created by Josh Wood at Marc Jacobs AW19 show, and Pantone’s colour of the year 2019 – Living Coral. This feature will include tips on how to get your clients out of their colour comfort zone from what to say in the colour consultation to how to describe the products that will help clients to maintain their new look at home. “It’s important to remember that we should always be working on our client relationships,” says Colin Caruso, artistic director for colour at John Paul Mitchell Systems. “Offer new colours and tones as frequently as possible to prevent clients getting bored. It’s crucial to keep guests excited about what we do.”
Shimmer on Metallics are an easy entry point into creative colour. Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador, loves applying a metallic balayage. “It adds a multi-tonal, almost holographic finish especially in mauve and violet tones. I blend sandy tones with Revlonissimo Colorsmetique Satinescent Deep Pearl,” he explains. Paul Mitchell is the latest colour house to add dedicated metallic lines to its colour range. “Add sections of Paul Mitchell Muted Metallics to highlighted hair,” suggests Paul Mitchell Systems artistic director Colin. Placing a few drops of colour opens up guests to the idea of doing something different with their hair. Choose the right Muted Metallics tone for your client • Rose Gold and Lavender work best on level 7 hair and above. • Silver works best on level 10 and lighter.
The metallics kit Colourists can use Paul Mitchell The Demi Muted Metallics in Rose Gold, Lavender and Silver as an all-over colour, an accent colour or as a veil of colour. Available in cool violet, copper and bronze, Goldwell Elumenated Metallics are three metallic shades that have an icy cool shine. OSMO Super Silver No Yellow Mask leaves grey, blonde and bleached hair looking fresh by neutralising yellow tones and delivering violet pigments.
31 / hji.co.uk
The power of pastel
Create this year’s most-requested hue in three easy steps. We’ve found light and intense versions so you can cater to all of your clients’ tastes.
Pastels have become synonymous with quick colour updates because of their temporary nature. “My blonde clients love their hair but every so often they want something different that’s non-committal,” explains Kelsey Simpson, Manic Panic sponsored artist. “My go-to way for creating a pastel look is to apply a toner or wash at the backwash. The results look amazing but the process doesn’t add much time to an appointment, which is perfect if you’ve got a busy column.”
AFFINAGE
Living coral: Subtle versus hot
Subtle coral by Tracey Devine Smith for ASP Affinage System Professional hair with ASP 1LitePre-lighten Affinage System Professional and 3% Crème Developer.
ADVANCED PRO SALON
COLOUR
Up the creativity
Visually develop to a clean blonde.
2 Rinse and shampoo with 3 MODE ColourCare Shampoo and towel dry.
HEFFY WHEELER
2019 Opalescent rainbow Think of the muted, magical colours that are seen when an opalescent crystal is reflecting against sunlight.
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
OSMO
2018 Unicorn hair A bewitching mix of pink, lilac, pistachio and azure, which is now seen everywhere from Coachella to your local music festival.
Hot coral by Heffy Wheeler for OSMO your client to a 1yourPre-lighten base 10. Natural warmth is friend when it comes to this gorgeous coral so ditch the ash toners. Mix together OSMO Colour 2 Psycho Wild Pink and Wild Orange together in equal parts. The orange brings out the warm undertones and the pink brings living coral to life. It’s important to saturate the hair heavily to give even coverage. the colour to develop 3Leave for 30 minutes.
Pastel dyes Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vibrance can be diluted with Igora Vibrance Clear 0-00 to reduce depth and create beautiful pastel tones. L’Oréal Professionnel #Colorfulhair washes out from five to 15 washes. It leaves no residue and it is available in a range of colours from blue to coral pink so it’s perfect for the first-timer. Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode includes six pastel shades, all of which are demi colours. Each shade is infused with argan oil and vitamins C, E and B5 which help to nourish the hair. The pastel shades are Clear, Iced Mint, Nordic Blue, Floss Pink, Sugar Violet and Frosted Can. 33 / hji.co.uk
COLOUR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Hot techniques: Horizon colour and colour clouds The hottest colouring techniques from London Fashion Week AW19 included colour clouds and horizon colour, created by Josh Wood, Redken global color creative director for the Mary Katrantzou show. What is horizon colour?
Best for darker-haired clients, the pre-coloured extensions were inserted at the hairline. They were saturated with colour at the roots, then faded out into a reverse ombré. What are colour clouds?
Perfect for those with fair hair, intense colours blur and blend out to the palest colour on the edges. The shades include peach and the palest azure. How were these looks created?
REDKEN
REDKEN
Bespoke hair pieces were hand-painted and perfected by Josh and his creative team in his Holland Park Atelier for five days before the show using a mix of Redken City Beats hues. Josh explains: “Mary sectioned her fashion collection into four worlds with each representing an aspect of the four elements – earth, wind, fire and water. We created two patterned hair techniques – colour clouds and horizon colour to work alongside and enhance her creative vision.” The result is something magical but beautifully undone.
3 tips for getting clients out of their colour comfort zone
1 Colour sculpting “We ask our clients to move their hair from left to right, almost like they are in a wind machine and then we’ll add colour on the ends. We call this colour sculpting and often do it with clients who are more cautious about trying creative colour.” Leland Hirsch, CEO of Celeb Luxury
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Horizon colour
Colour clouds
At-home colour care kit The products that care for hair even after your client leaves the salon Joico Defy Damage Home Care System promises to maintain 90% of colour vibrancy and to increase hair’s shine and strength. Containing milk proteins and a patented complex, milk_shake Colour Care Shampoo and Conditioner helps repair the hair cuticle while protecting the colour against free radicals. The ingredients in Angel en Provence Orange Flower Shining range create a sheild to protect hair colour. 34 / hji.co.uk
Experiment with pieces “Play with pieces of colour before you go for global colour – whether that is vivid tones through the ends or more natural-looking shades with techniques such as balayage to keep your clients excited about their hair colour.” John Spanton, Trevor Sorbie’s creative colour and technical educator director
3 Hidden panels “I love hidden panels, especially in a contrasting shade. What is great about this look is they can be hidden or revealed depending on whether the client wears their hair up or down or wants to be taken seriously or show off their fun side.” Keeley Simpson, sponsored artist for Manic Panic
COLOUR Introducing 100% bespoke colour
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Backwash beauty treatments
Manicure, madam?
SHUTTERSTOCK
t’s time to get personal. Did you know that sales and loyalty increase when consumers are offered engaging personal experiences?* Just think about your own recent experiences as a consumer in 2019. You’ve been offered a personalised smoothie after a workout in the gym, there are iPad consultations at your local department store for creating a bespoke make-up or skincare regime and your favourite e-tailer is sending you newsletters based on your personal tastes. The professional hair colour service also has plenty of opportunity for personalisation and colourists have the power to give their clients an unforgettable and unique experience in the salon. HJ investigates how you can strive to exceed your client’s expectations through your colour service.
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As consumers spend more on personalised and interactive experiences, is it time to make your colour service more engaging for your clients?
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Welcome to the 360° consultation room
olour W Talking power If you want to tap into the trend for providing engaging services, it begins with re-evaluating your colour consultation. Don’t make a root touch up consulation with Ms Smith sound as if you’re re-painting a faded garden fence. Instead, talk about her colour placement as though you are crafting a bespoke colour – one that is based on her personality, her skin tone and eye colour as this will make her feel understood and valued. At Skyler London all clients visit a 360° mirrored consultation room. It might sound intimidating but this experiential consultation has proved popular. Lloyd Court, colour director at Skyler London explains: “Clients love the mirror room as they can interact with the consultation, rather than feeling like we are talking at *
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them. It feels personal as we use the mirrors to assess, analyse and see our guest’s hair in total clarity and we use colour capes to see which colours suit each individual.” At Moose House of Hair in Leicestershire the team also pride themselves on their personalised approach. “Our colour consultation begins by inviting guests into the Balmain Couleurs Couture boutique,” explains creative director James Taylor. In the boutique, clients are met with a hair wardrobe of pre-coloured hair pieces they can try on for size. “It’s an instant and risk-free service that shows clients how different colours can suit them,” James adds. Clients can also feel the softness of the coloured hair piece, get involved in the decision-making process and try on multiple shades in a short space of time.
Beauty Retailing USA: Channel Analysis and Opportunities Report, Kline 2018
COLOUR
NARGIS CROSS, NEVILLE HAIR AND BEAUTY
“We apply lip masks at the backwash and carry out facials while clients wait for their colour to develop in the salon.” Elena Lavagni, Neville Hair and Beauty
Time maximisers In this time-poor era it’s important to show clients the colour processing aspect of their appointment doesn’t need to be wasted time. It can be put to good use and generate extra revenue if you offer beauty treatments such as express facials, manicures and threading. Beauty treatments add an extra level of indulgence to a service and it will help to maximise your client’s time. This is a sentiment which is shared by Elena Lavagni, company director at Neville Hair and Beauty, who introduced the idea of a one-stop beauty shop to her business in 2008. “Your business needs to fit into the client’s life, not the other way around. I firmly believe businesses need to become more customer-centric,” she explains. Neville Hair and Beauty also has The Facial Bar, which offers 20-minute express medical facials
that are perfectly designed to fill the colour processing time period. The facials are delivered while the client is sitting in the chair and the products are intended to be removed with gloves, sponges or face cloths so there’s no need for a sink. “The beauty of The Facial Bar is treatments can be done anywhere in the salon,” Elena adds. “We can apply lip masks at the backwash during a shampoo or carry out a signature facial while clients are reading a magazine waiting for the colour to develop.” London salon chain Live True London also offers facials, manicures, pedicures and threading during the time in which a client’s hair colour takes to process. “By making a client’s colour service more efficient and combining their hair and beauty services in one trip, we have become a client’s one-stop shop,” explains Valerie Maine, Live True London CEO and director. Both Elena 38 / hji.co.uk
Did you know? Women spend less on colour in a year than on haircuts. Research from MINDBODY, a business management company for the health and beauty industry, has found women spend £284.70 per year on hair colour, compared to £387.51 on haircuts. Ask yourself – are you getting £284.70 from your clients? Could you up that figure by making your colour service more experiential?
and Valerie agree it is essential to recommend these add-on services to clients when they are booking their next colour appointment, during their consultation and in the marketing you carry out between salon visits. Your clients and your bottom line will thank you for it.
NEW
SHADES 4 UV REACTIVE
Find out more www.crazycolor.co.uk
COLOUR Experiential salons These salons are more than just places for clients to get their hair cut, coloured and styled…
SHUTTERSTOCK
Cutting club At Blade Hairclubbing in Soho clients can get all the usual hair services as well as the choice to sample the curated house drinks menu in the hidden subterranean bar.
Music and masks Glitch is a music venue meets salon and could be the coolest place to hang out in Bristol. Guests can listen to live music and indulge in food and drink in a foliage-filled environment.
Coffee and colour Guests can enjoy complimentary hand-crafted coffee at Man-OJ Coffee and Cuts in the heart of London.
Bespoke mixes Professional colour brands are making their ranges more personal with innovations that make every client feel unique and allow stylists to show off their expertise. At Marylebone salon Billi Currie, the evo Fabuloso Pro System allows stylists to become mixologists. The machine blends custom-mixed colour conditioners for clients to take home and use between salon visits. Tom Smith, director at Billi Currie says: “It keeps colour looking fresh, shiny and vibrant and allows clients to become part of the colouring experience while increasing their loyalty by giving them personalised colour.” Wella Professionals’ Color DJ also answers the demand for personalised colour. The world’s first digitally-enabled machine produces personalised hair glossing masks to help maintain colour at home or in the salon between colour appointments. Hani Jarcheh, creative director at Abstract Hairdressing in 40 / hji.co.uk
Buckinghamshire is the only salon in the UK to have the Color DJ machine. He says: “Stylists use the iPad technology to set how much of each colour tone gets added to the gloss. Clients get a product personalised to them – they pick the scent and we advise on how much moisturiser their hair needs.” The Color DJ machine is a focal point in the salon. It’s situated near the reception and the scents that are used for the gloss sit in glass jars on the front desk to encourage clients to try them. Clients can help create a colour formula they can see with their own eyes. Whether it’s through the consultation, add-on treatments or the colouring process itself, by making your service more interactive you can engage clients, increase loyalty and customer-spend. “At Billi Currie we are making clients interested in bespoke colour design and this in turn keeps them coming back for more,” enthuses Tom. Could this be the secret to running a successful business in 2019?
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BRIDAL TRENDS
Love at First Sight The bridal hair trends your clients will be lusting over this spring/summer
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LINTON AND MAC
“This updo is perfect for clients who want something different and super romantic for their wedding day. The key to this Grecian-like hairstyle is it should look natural so it’s important to be gentle when creating this style.” Karen Thomson, KAM Hair and Beauty
KAM HAIR AND BEAUTY
ND MAC
Romantic updo
Pretty waves “This hairstyle is so simple to create yet so pretty. Waves are perfect for a bride who wants to look glamorous on her big day. It’s groomed but not too ‘done’, which is something a lot of brides are requesting right now.” Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty
Make a statement “With last year’s Royal wedding fever, it’s hardly surprising that fashion has taken a regal approach to styling and reverted back to classic looks with strong accessories. Princess waves, a glass-like finish and tiaras all returned to the catwalk for the SS19 bridal shows but with a modern twist.” Jennifer Linton and Jay MacDonald, directors, Linton & Mac
Create the look:
• Pull the Curlformer barrel onto damp hair starting from half way down and making sure the Curlformers sit in the same direction. Leave the Curlformers to set and once dry, simply remove. • Brush the curls out gently with an oval brush to create smooth glossy waves.
• Sculpt gentle tumbling waves, keeping the hair neat, semi-structured and defined. • Add two slides because 2018’s hottest accessory has transitioned over to wedding-wear for 2019.
CURLFORMERS
Create the look:
GUSTAV FO
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Accessories top tip:
Slides and tiaras will transform princess waves into a look that’s high fashion and highly covetable. Michael Van Clarke’s bridal style director Gustav Fouche says: “The big fashion houses like Chanel and Gucci are really playing with the idea of accessories. Why not suggest your client creates a bit more sparkle with a tiara or a slide for their wedding day.”
get Don’t for smaids! e the brid
“It’s important to consider the hair of each bridesmaid and find a look that works across the board. This can be tricky if you’re working with different hair lengths and textures so try to find an element that ties all of the looks together. This season, classic blow-dries and vintage styling are a chic alternative to traditional updos. Think flawless side partings paired with dressed-out 1940s waves. It’s a timeless trend that works across all age groups.” Guy Kremer 43 / hji.co.uk
GUY KREMER
Bridesmaid trend: Individuality rules
The three key trends for grooms Chris O’Sullivan, director at Grizzly’s Male Hair Salon shares the three key looks he predicts grooms will be requesting this year
Feminine ponytails “Ponytails are perfect for a bride who likes the idea of loose hair but is still looking for some structure to keep her hair in place. You can either opt for a silky smooth pony with no volume or you can create a voluminous textured pony which gives the option of having more lift at the crown. This will keep the overall look softer and more flattering for your client.” Gustav Fouche, bridal style director, Michael Van Clarke
GUSTAV FOUCHE
BRIDAL TRENDS
Create the look:
• Section the top of the head out. • Secure the ponytail with an elastic in the position you want it to be. • Curl the ponytail to the desired wave. • Start adding the top to the rest of the ponytail, leaving some bits out to create softness.
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Untailored curls The trend for this wedding season is far less tailored with hair being worn more naturally, especially if the groom has natural curls.
Patrick Cameron recommends using the Patrick Cameron Hair Pad as a foundation for brides with fine hair. “This look can be very versatile and adapted to suit almost every client as most hair textures can easily be pulled into a stunning chignon. Don’t be frightened to use a fine invisible hair net to encase the hair for a smoother finish. A low style chignon pairs well with classic gowns that have a portrait neckline. If your bride’s dress has a high neckline, opting for a chignon around the crown area will really show off her dress as well as sculpting her jawline and cheekbones.”
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Natural finish Mid length scissor work is a strong contender for grooms this season with a soft and natural finish.
Wedding braids
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Soft taper If a groom wants a fade but doesn’t want to expose his lumps and bumps suggest a soft taper. This has a very smart finish as it offers crisp detailing to the edges and soft texture through the top. It is very appealing on camera and it is popular with grooms in the salon.
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“The braid is an excellent way to add an edge to bridal hair and play around with texture and movement. Clients no longer want to conform to tradition and play it safe so offering something outside the box like this deconstructed, knotted braid will keep your offering as a salon fresh and up to date. Keeping the hair off the face allows this look to remain feminine and suitable for a veil to be added.” Simon Hill, salon owner, SESH Hairdressing Braids top tip:
Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Newtownards, Northern Ireland says: “Braids are perfect for someone with thick hair who wants an updo or anyone who wants to show off the neckline of their dress. Braids are extremely versatile so show your clients how you can tailor them into something soft or more structured.” 44 / hji.co.uk
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Chignon top tip:
PATRICK CAMERO
“Encourage brides to take inspiration from Gracy Accad’s SS19 bridal show. Models sported chignoninspired styles that were swept back and up in a way that was soft, relaxed and fuss-free. There also needs to be lots of volume through the top section.” Steve Rowbottom, director, Westrow
WESTROW
Deconstructed chignon
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DETANGLING GETS PERSONAL WITH TANGLE TEEZER Discover the perfect hairbrush for every hair type
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T O FE E T
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Thick & Curly
The Original
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The detangling range
Fine & Fragile
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
T
angle Teezer established itself as a detangling hairbrush brand in 2007 with The Original, which is now an industry best-selling hairbrush. Since then, the brand has created solutions to detangle different hair types, including the curliest of hair with the Thick & Curly. This year it is unveiling an innovation targeted at those with fine, fragile, colour-treated, heat damaged or environmentally-stressed hair, which is called the Fine & Fragile. The new launch couldn’t come at a better time. According to latest statistics, one in four women will experience hair loss and thinning in their lifetime and 38% of post-menopausal women are affected by genetic hair loss. Similarly scalp care is a big topic for clients and 246 different YouTube videos about scalp care were uploaded in 2018.*
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Introducing Fine & Fragile Using the wrong hairbrush on your client’s hair can increase friction by weakening and splitting the cuticle. The Fine & Fragile has soft teeth which gently detangle and stimulate the scalp for healthier hair. Endorsed by the International Trichology Congress, the hairbrush features the same detangling benefits as The Original – long teeth that eliminate knots and tangles and short teeth that smooth the hair cuticle and provide shine. This means you will have the confidence to brush your delicate client’s hair in the salon and your client can also brush their hair at home with minimal breakage. The result will be healthier looking hair. In-salon benefits The complete range of detangling hairbrushes will allow you to showcase your expertise and will make it easier than ever to provide bespoke recommendations for an individual’s needs. You can also keep your client’s hair looking and feeling in top condition until their next salon visit so it’s a win-win for both you and your customers. * last 12 months to Feb 18. Pretty Analytics, hair loss research on Google.
Fine & Fragile Results
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* Research was conducted by Launchpad Research, an independent agency. After two weeks of brushing with the Fine & Fragile, severity of hair breakage experienced among women (108) was five times less, 47% before vs 8% after. **Results based on 108 women aged from 30 to 50 with fine, fragile hair, colour treated and damaged hair using the Fine & Fragile hairbrush for a two-week period.
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CLIENT LOYALTY
Why Are Clients Not Returning to Your Salon? “I am often ‘told off’ at the salon for not getting a trim regularly enough. On my last visit I was asked ‘when was the last time you had a haircut?’ and when I said ‘six months ago’, the stylist rolled their eyes at me.”
“Never judge a client when they come into your salon. It doesn’t matter how often they visit as long as they return. If your client asks for more body, more movement or cleaner ends, then that might be a good time to talk to her about the importance of regular appointments and the difference it would have on her hair. I certainly wouldn’t criticise her for not coming into the salon more regularly. Her visit should be full of positivity and advice. I love the clients who only come in to see me once a year as much as I do those that come in every month. Remember that clients come to the salon to feel good about themselves and their hair – not to be told off.” Philipp Haug, international artistic director, Toni & Guy
“I don’t understand why professional colour is so expensive. Why can’t I mix professional and off-the-shelf colour?”
“I’m not being given any advice in the salon that I wouldn’t get from the internet. I’m looking for tips and tricks on styling my hair as well as product recommendations but my stylist isn’t providing them.”
“I don’t feel like my stylist ‘gets me’. I ask for certain styles and colours but the results aren’t what I want. It’s getting a bit awkward.”
“Without lecturing clients, colourists do need to make it clear that a professional brand has the technology and performance to deliver high maintenance and desirable results while maintaining optimum condition. Tell the client that opting for professional colour in a salon applied by an expert ensures the colour has been mixed to suit their style, personality and skintone. Remind them that a box dye can be helpful as a quick fix, for example to cover a few greys, but long term it can leave hair dull, uneven and artificial looking. This means the price may be cheaper but it could leave clients unhappy and spending more to compensate in the long term.” Issie Churcher, colour director, Brooks & Brooks
“Stylists often feel clients will be put off by advice because the client will assume we’re trying to sell them products. It’s easy to advise clients without a hard sell at the end. Talk about the products you are using on their hair and the benefits of each one. Tell them how much you’re using, where you’re putting it and why. Explain the styling technique you are applying to achieve the look and how they can use it at home. Involve them in their appointment – give them the brush or dryer to hold and show them how to do it themselves at home and let them smell and touch the professional products. None of this will feel like you are forcing them to buy your products as it is expertise they won’t get anywhere else.” Joe Mills, founder of The Lounge, Soho
“Listen and listen properly. It’s OK to ask what clients like in terms of a style or colour, but you’ll get a lot more from them if you ask what they don’t like. People are always vocal if you ask them the right question and use images to help. Thanks to social media you can find pictures instantly to help guide your client but expectations need to be managed carefully. Remind clients that not everything they see on-screen is a true representation because pictures are filtered, cropped and retouched all the time. Tell clients that not everything can be achieved in one appointment and for the sake of their hair’s health, especially when lightening or colouring, several appointments may be required.” Gary Taylor, owner of Edward & Co
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CLIENT LOYALTY
Real customers confess the reasons why they aren’t loyal to a hairdresser or salon, plus the experts explain what you can do to convince them to come back
“I find salon menus and pricing confusing. I booked in with a junior once and was told I would have to be seen by the senior stylist with no explanation why, and I was charged the higher price.”
“I can’t afford regular trips to the salon – I only go once or twice a year. I feel like I’m treated with less importance because I don’t go as regularly as other clients.”
“My regular stylist moved salons and I had built a relationship with her rather than the salon itself, so I didn’t see a reason to be loyal to the salon.”
What Clients Want Business consultant in bespoke salon education, Emil McMahon, reveals how clients want to feel in your salon
They want to feel… Excited Clients are looking for more than ‘just’ a haircut or colour. Salons must create engaging experiences for customers to enjoy. From refreshments offered to additional services, each aspect of the experience adds a layer of excitement. Read our colour feature on page 37 for some fresh ideas.
They want to feel… Engaged “Make sure every client is comfortable and clear on the pricing structure of your services. A client should be placed with the stylist that will suit their requirements today and in the future. If they’re looking to switch up their colour, for example, let them know what your tiered pricing means in terms of their requirements and your team’s areas of expertise. Matching your client to the correct person in the salon should form the basis of every initial client consultation both over the phone and in person. Breaking down your price list is also a good idea so your clients can understand the trend-led services you offer as well as your more classic techniques.” Gavin Mills, managing director, Bad Apple Hair Group
“When a stylist leaves, contact their clientele as soon as possible as it is much better for them to hear the news of their departure from the salon itself. Recommend another stylist or technician that is suited to them and their haircare needs. Don’t forget to let them know why the stylist would be a perfect fit and list all of their experience and any awards they have won. Show the client you appreciate their loyalty by offering a discounted service or a complimentary treatment. After all, it costs a lot more to attract a new client than it does to retain an existing one. Cultivate loyalty through communication and a desire to accommodate your clients’ needs.” Hayley Jennings, co-director, Unlimited Hairloss Solutions
“Why not offer the services of a graduate stylist at a discounted rate to attract those clients who are on a budget? It’s also a good idea to look at the quietest periods in the salon and offer promotional rates on those particular days or even during the quieter hours in the day. This is the perfect incentive for students or clients on a limited income to come into the salon. People are always looking for more affordable ways to keep their hair looking great and to visit you more often. Most importantly, make sure each and every client receives a five-star service when they visit. Word of mouth is the best form of PR and they will help spread the word on your salon and its outstanding services.” Steve Rowbottom, co-director, Westrow
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Use the wonders of social media to ‘top and tail’ your customer visits to the salon. Your platforms can showcase everything and everyone in your business. Always encourage your clients to tag you in their posts and tag them in yours to make them feel part of salon life before, during and after their appointments.
They want to feel… Extraordinary Brexit has brought a level of uncertainty and it’s making clients question costs in their daily lives. Inexpensive box dye is a challenge that salons have to defeat by showcasing their amazing techniques that will make clients look and feel extraordinary.
FASHION
â&#x20AC;&#x153;The concept behind this collection was reworkable shapes using different styles, make-up, angles and clothing to show how we can use smoke and mirrors to make clients look totally different.â&#x20AC;? Mazella & Palmer Editorial Team
d n a e Smok Mirrors
and Experiment with styling, mood lighting to create entirely different looks 50 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
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FASHION
Hair: Anthony Murtagh, Dautemer Fanny Camille and Gianmarco Catapano for Mazella & Palmer Make-up: Grace Mcgrath Styling: Mariesa Crowder Photography: Talie Rose Eigeland
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#theOriginal
sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977
The Havana, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk
BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK
FASHION
FRENCH GIRL STYLE â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;19 Cool and chic
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FASHION
“After spending a few seasons at Paris Fashion Week I could see why French girls are known for being chic. I wanted to portray this idea from very classic silhouettes and polished waves to the relaxed and cool girl hair you see in this collection.” Dom Seeley for Lômé Paris
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FASHION
Hair Styling: Dom Seeley for Lômé Paris Styling: Jess Grist Photography: Barry Jeffery
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*
WELLA HACKS: INTRODUCING A NEW COLOUR RANGE Megan Karalis, salon owner at Rene Aubrey Hairdressing, explains why she added Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+ to her salon offering and shares how the team is using it to generate more revenue for her business
WELLA PROFESSIONALS
For people not allergic to hair colourants – although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always perform an allergy alert test 48 hours before each coloration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult wella.com. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants, you should not colour. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand.
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Make the transition Education and support are key factors for changing to a different colour brand or range within the salon. You should always embrace change and see it as an adventure. Making the transition to a new colour range will also encourage a different thought process. It can be really stimulating for the colourists in your team. We moved to Wella Professionals because we are a big colouring salon and our product choices are key to maintaining seamless results for our clients. The new Koleston Perfect with ME+ formulation is a game changer for the team and the Wella Professionals education programme is comprehensive. I believe an educated stylist equals a happy stylist and salon.
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Reassure your clients Most of our clients have been with us for many years and trust us implicitly with the care of their hair. We always strive for excellence and that reflects in the products we use. I believe if we are passionate and believe in a colour range our clients will too. For example, my co-owner, Thanasis, is excited to have a permanent tint that can be used from root to tip without damaging a client’s hair. While team member, Moncha, is
How can Koleston Perfect with ME+ help? telling clients how excited she is to be working with colour that tackles excess brassiness while creating natural tones with superior shine.
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Generate extra revenue We have found Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+ has had a very positive impact on the colour revenue within our salon. Consumers in 2019 are very savvy so the new ME+ technology is a game changer. It gives even more of our clients the opportunity to experiment with colour without the worry of developing an allergy or a sensitivity to colour.*
#AskForWella wella.co.uk
WellaUK
WellaHairUK 59 / hji.co.uk
“Wella Professionals is a market leader in hair colouring. The introduction of ME+ technology is an advancement for our industry and gives our salon an edge in the way we approach colour with our clients. ME+ technology is a scientific breakthrough for clients because it reduces the risk of sensitivities* while delivering even colour from root to tip with 100% grey coverage. It also leaves the hair feeling wonderful and full of sheen. Wella Professionals has been very active in making sure we are well informed and up-to-date with colour techniques and all the latest trends.”
FASHION
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Each model represents a girl from a different district meaning they are all individual and have their own style. We shot the models both inside and outside on location to reflect the theme of the shoot.â&#x20AC;? Michael Young
DISTRICT 6 Eclectic cool vibes
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FASHION
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FASHION
Hair: Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team 2018: Fabia Bruce, Chloe Hunter, Hannah McGrath, Misha McLean, Joe Maughan, Keely Passmore Artistic direction: Gary Hooker & Michael Young Young Artistic Team mentors: Jamie Farrar and Catherine Adams Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Michael Young
62 / hji.co.uk
WITH THE BEST IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
ENTER NOW
Visit www.hji.co.uk/bha or contact Becca Painter on 020 3841 7365 MONDAY 25TH NOVEMBER 2019 JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR HOUSE, PARK LANE, LONDON W1
#bha19
MEMBERSHIPS
Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Plus much, much more
BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH And win a tbh – true beautiful honest Starter Kit worth £200 chwarzkopf Professional has introduced Sclients a permanent hair colour brand that gives natural looking colours. tbh – true
Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.
beautiful honest features multi-dimensional nuances to enhance a client’s skin tone. The formulation contains up to 92% naturally derived ingredients and features multi-dimensional coverage for natural shine and a healthy-looking glow. There are six natural shades in the range, 13 cool shades and seven warm shades. One new member will have the chance to win the tbh – true beautiful honest Starter Kit, which is worth £200. The Starter Kit includes: • 12x tbh – true beautiful honest 60ml tubes • 1x tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener 1000ml • 2x Igora Royal Developer 100ml • 1x tbh – true beautiful honest Shade Guide
Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Membership rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA
Become an HJ Member and quote reference HJIAPRIL For more information about tbh – true beautiful honest visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk. PRESENTS THE
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PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
SPONSORED BY
Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65605 April 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
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FASHION
REDUX Classic styles are given a modern twist
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FASHION
â&#x20AC;&#x153;The inspiration for Redux came from looking at our archives and realising classic hairdressing is completely timeless. We updated the styles to be synonymous with our brand and gave them a modern twist while still drawing on the techniques that inspired them.â&#x20AC;? Guy Kremer 68 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
Hair: Guy Kremer, J C Aucamp and Chloe Etherington at Guy Kremer for L’Oréal Professionnel Make-up: Ellen K Bridger Styling: Tracey Lea Sayer Photography: Jonny Engstrom
69 / hji.co.uk
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
TAKE NATURAL TO NEW HEIGHTS Give your clients a natural-looking yet vibrant colour with Joico’s new LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow Series
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oico has created a collection of flattering and radiant tones for healthy-looking hair. The permanent and demi-permanent crèmes and demipermanent liquid colours deliver neutral shades that offer luminous shine. The offering is suitable for anyone who wants a sandy shade, a beachy-bronze or anything that sits within the nude and golden spectrum. Joico’s brand ambassador Larisa Love explains the range can be used on any client. She says: “The shades are the perfect blend of neutral and golden to enhance any skin tone and bring out their natural glow and luminosity!” The Nude Glow difference There are multiple benefits to using Joico’s new Nude Glow range. The colour delivers up to twice the shine compared to untreated and damaged hair. It also reduces breakage and
seals in moisture, softness and shine for up to 30 shampoos. You can use the range to offer your clients exceptional colour longevity and vibrancy, plus the Permanent Crème Color gives 100% grey coverage. The healthy shine secret Joico uses a one-of-a-kind bondbuilding argiplex technology to deliver a natural and glossy shine within a colour palette that opens up a world of creative possibilities. The technology contains bond-building arginine, which is a naturally occurring amino acid that is crucial to keeping hair protected and strong. The patented conditioning complex surrounds the hair shaft to nourish and protect colour-treated hair. Finally, the quadramine complex features Joico’s exclusive blend of low-molecular proteins that adhere quickly to reconstruct hair from the cuticle to the cortex.
Which LumiShine product will you choose? The LumiShine Nude Glow Color Collection is available as a permanent crème, demi-permanent crème or a demi-permanent liquid for guaranteed healthier looking hair after each LumiShine service • Permanent Crème Color This is perfect for 100% grey coverage, adding up to twice the shine and reducing breakage. It is available in 4NW, 5NW, 6NW, 7NW, 9NW. RRP £9.20 • Demi-Permanent Crème Color This is designed for covering or blending grey hair. It creates depth and dimension with lowlighting and
shadow-roots while adding up to twice the shine. It is available in 4NW, 5NW, 6NW, 7NW, 9NW. RRP £9.20 • Demi-Permanent Liquid Color This is ideal for refreshing, glossing and toning hair. The Liquid Color blends grey hair and adds up to twice the amount of shine. It is available in 6NW, 8NW, 10NW. RRP £9.20 70 / hji.co.uk
“The new Joico LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow Series are the perfect blend of neutral and golden shades to enhance any skin tone and bring out the hair’s natural glow and luminosity.” Larisa Love
Protect your client’s luminous colour Using Joico’s Defy Damage alongside the new LumiShine Series will save you time and it will protect your client’s natural-looking glossy colour results. The Defy Damage ProSeries works beautifully with any hair colour and lightener to optimise product performance and provide powerful damage protection...
Step 1: Apply Defy Damage ProSeries 1 This powerful, ultra-dry bond-protecting colour optimiser spray will instantly shield hair from chemical service damage. It improves colour deposit and provides greater lift when lightening.
Step 2: Colour with LumiShine Nude Glow Series
Step 3: Finish with Defy Damage ProSeries 2 This intensive bond strengthening colour treatment will help to replenish bonds, strengthen and hydrate hair for damageresistant and healthy-looking results in just one use.
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FASHION
POP KIDS Representing an individual style that oozes cool 72 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
“This collection is based on a cult of crazy fashion and petulance in a world where you look as good at 6am as you do at 6pm. Fashion is a laboratory – a place where individuals are encouraged and rewarded for their experimentation. Pop Kids mixes precision cuts and cult shapes with popping colours.” Dean Bradwell
Hair: Dean Bradwell Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Marie McLeod and Magdalena Jacobs Photography: John Rawson 73 / hji.co.uk
LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019 PRESENTED BY
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THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING
ENTRANCE TICKETS ARE NOW ON SALE FOR THE HAIRDRESSING EVENT OF THE YEAR Book your earlybird* entrance tickets online now at www.salonshow.co.uk/booksalon or call the ticket hotline on 0844 581 4915 (UK) or (0)121 796 6291 (Overseas). *Earlybird rates will expire on 30.5.19
IT’S EASIER THAN EVER TO ENTER
HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards is on the hunt for those of you who are making waves within your business and ultimately changing the landscape of our industry for the benefit of everyone This year, we’ve streamlined the entry process and introduced a number of new categories to make it even simpler for you and your colleagues to enter.
Classic categories with a twist The criteria for three of this year’s core categories have been updated to ensure they suit the way you and your business works in 2019. Go to hji.co.uk/bhba for more details. *Customer Service Award
APPLY ONLINE All entries for 2019 must be submitted online via our website hji.co.uk/bhba. Please note postal entries will not be accepted to ensure the judging process is fair for all.
*Marketing Campaign *Male Grooming Salon/Barber Shop of the Year
BRING YOUR ENTRY TO LIFE We are providing all entrants with the option to supply a short video (up to 90 seconds max) explaining why you think you or your salon should win your award category. Please note this is compulsory for anyone wishing to enter the Social Stylist category.
New category alert! Social Stylist Are you a whizz at creating hype around your latest Instagram posts? Is your inbox flooded with direct messages from followers wanting you to work your hair magic? This award is for the stylist with the best online presence and strategy that translates and attracts clients to their business.
HJ’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS ENTER ONLINE NOW at hji.co.uk/bhba
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
ENTER ONLINE NOW www.hji.co.uk/bhba
DEADLINE: FRIDAY 14 JUNE 2019 AT 5PM ENTRY ENQUIRIES: Contact Becca Painter on 020 3841 7365 or email becca@hji.co.uk SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown on 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk
#BHBA19
FASHION
DELICATE DRAMA Combine natural looks with lots of texture
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FASHION
â&#x20AC;&#x153;This collection features simply beautiful hair with an undone and natural finish. The hairstyles are very soft but they are full of texture and movement, leading to Delicate Drama being the perfect name.â&#x20AC;? Karen Thomson and the KAM Hair and Body Spa Creative Team
Hair: Karen Thomson and KAM Hair and Body Spa Creative Team Make-up: Megumi Matsuno Styling: Claire Frith Photography: Jack Eames 79 / hji.co.uk
Seek natural growth, harvest calm. Zen Series.
FASHION
t u o h t i W r u o l o C Compromise Create the best cut and colour for your clients
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FASHION
Hair: Rodney Wayne Artistic Team Make-up and styling: Amy Fiebig Photography: Steven Chee
“Truly fabulous hair colour is not about covering up, it’s about speaking up. It can express who you truly are and who you want to be. No Compromise Colour is an invitation to unleash the most beautiful expression of who you are while caring for the health and integrity of your hair.” Rodney Wayne Artistic Team 82 / hji.co.uk
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T HE HOT LIST
Metallic dream
In the nude
Beachy waves
Paul Mitchell The Demi Muted Metallics range features Lavender, Rose Gold and Silver shades which can be used individually for an all-over tone or added to other shades. Salon price £4.98
Take natural to new heights with the Joico Lumishine Natural Warm Nude Glow Series. The collection consists of permanent, demi-permanent crème and demipermanent liquid colours. RRP £9.20
Created especially for wavy and curly hair, the Goldwell StyleSign Curly Twist range features the new Curly Twist Salty Oil Spray which gives hair beautifully breezy texture. RRP £15
Lighter life
Ray of sunshine
Be bold
IdHAIR Extra White Bleach Paste can be mixed with all IdHAIR Boosters. It’s ammonia free, lightens up to 7 tones and contains blue pigments to neutralise golden and warm tones. RRP £11.52+VAT
The Wella Invigo Nutri-Sun range contains an After Sun Cleansing Shampoo, After Sun Express Conditioner and UV Hair Color to protect clients’ hair during the summer months.
Framesi Framcolor 2001 Intense is a range of 22 permanent shades with a 20-minute processing time and luminous finish that lightens up to 3 levels. The range is available exclusively at Aston and Fincher.
Ultimate styling
Life’s rosy
Green points
Perfect for straightening, curling or creating waves, the Corioliss C3 Ultimate Styler features titanium plates and comes with a three-metre salon standard cord that can swivel 360°. From £109.99
Electric °C-1 English Rose Serum is a light serum that reduces split ends and offers protection from UVB rays. It contains extracts from roses harvested in Electric London’s farm in Sussex. RRP £17.50
Paper not Foil is an eco-friendly alternative to colouring foils. It degrades without any toxic waste, it can be re-used up to three times and it is made using 96% less energy than traditional foil.
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Paint on colour
Overnight miracle
Lift it higher
Designed especially for balayage, the Sunlights Professional Balayage Lightener is clay-based so it has a smooth consistency with conditioning properties that make it ideal for free-hand painting.
Kérastase Nutritive 8 Hour Magic Night Serum is a night cream that helps to nourish and repair hair during sleep. It can be applied to wet or dry hair and doesn’t need to be washed out. RRP £36
Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside is a lightening powder with a built-in bonding additive. It helps colourists protect bonds and keep hair fibres strong while providing up to 8 levels of lift.
What a boost
Bright future
Hedonistic headliner
Formulated for thinning hair, L’Oréal Professionnel Serioxyl Denser Hair Treatment is a scalp solution that aims to improve the density of a client’s hair within six weeks. RRP £35
Celeb Luxury Viral Hybrid Colourditioners with BondFix is a conditioner, colour and bond rebuilder. The range is available exclusively from Sally Salon Services. £16.99+VAT
Inspired by summer carnivals, the ghd Festival Collection has given three of ghd’s favourite products (the Platinum+ Styler, Gold Styler and Air Hairdryer) a multi-coloured makeover. From £99
Long-life extensions
Purple power
Less is more
Ideal for prolonging the life and lustre of extensions, the Balmain Professional Aftercare Pouch contains everything a client needs to protect their locks between appointments. RRP £63.75
Banish brassy tones and keep blondes looking brighter for longer with OSMO Super Silver No Yellow Mask. The hydrating properties help to replenish lost moisture and neutralise yellow tones. From £5.80
Schwarzkopf Professional tbh – true beautiful honest is the brand’s first permanent hair colour range that creates authentic looking colours by harnessing the natural highs and lows of a client’s hair.
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COVERS ALL ASPECTS OF HAIR STYLING, BEAUTY AND BARBERING
For students working their way towards a hair, nail or beauty qualification For just £20 per year
NEW: For self-employed barbers and barber shop owners From £37.50
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INTERIORS
FEEL GOOD INC. Siobhan Jones, former head of colour at Headmasters, has opened her first salon – a feminine and Instagrammable space on the New Kings Road in West London
D
escribed as a ‘happy place’ by co-owner Siobhan Jones, Rose & Wild Hair Concept in West London is a millennial pink paradise that has been creating a buzz on Instagram. The salon was designed with social media in mind – everywhere you look there are picture-perfect views. “We purposefully created an Instagrammable living area in the front window,” explains Siobhan. 89 / hji.co.uk
“Our swing, blush pink sofa, neon sign, decorative cushions and multiple plants, all help to catch the eye of those walking past.” Plus, it encourages clients to take selfies which are shared by their friends and provides free publicity for Siobhan and her team. Being creative with colour is the Rose & Wild salon ethos and this translates into the interior decoration. Siobhan says: “We’ve
INTERIORS
FACT FILE Name: Rose & Wild Hair Concept Address: New Kings Road, London Owners: Siobhan Jones and Curtis Arekion How long have you been in the premises: 2 months Staff: 7 Budget: £40,000
used colour in the salon to separate the spaces. The consultation area is pink, the hair stations are variations of green, the spa area is teal and the product shelves and the nail area are surrounded by green plants and ivy.” The final images portray perfection but the renovation was not without a few setbacks. When it came to knocking down the downstairs walls it became apparent there was damp in the basement. Thankfully, the upstairs had a perfect layout for Siobhan and the team to work with and it was completed in just three weeks, allowing the salon to open on time and for the finishing touches to be made at a later date. It’s the finishing touches that give the salon its homely feel. Designer Jillian Smith, Siobhan and co-owner Curtis Arekion opted for Takara Belmont Adria II styling chairs, which Siobhan describes as
the most comfortable chairs on the market. The sofas and chairs came from Cult Furniture, the mirrors and trinkets were from made.com and the cushions came from H&M Home. This mix of home interiors and professional salon furniture creates a unique space that doesn’t feel like a typical commercial salon. Illustrator Linda Gobeta created bespoke drawings and along with the fun quotes dotted around the salon, they add to the space’s happy and positive vibe. Memorable quotes include ‘wash your worries away,’ which fittingly sits in the backwash area and ‘even a rose goes a little wild sometimes.’ Siobhan adds: “We are more than just a hair salon, we are a feel-good space. Rose & Wild is a happy place that we created not only for our clients but for our stylists and colourists too.” Well, they do say that happiness is infectious.
SIOBHAN’S TOP TIPS • Be open to client feedback It’s easy to be protective of your salon but the clients are the ones who are sitting in the chairs and they see the salon through fresh eyes so listen to them. • Be practical Try not to get consumed by the fun parts of a renovation. It’s also important to think about the essentials like storage and where the cupboards will go. • Think about Instagram Create a window feature or hang works of art that will make a client’s head turn. We have our swing and sofa positioned in the window. They both attract passers-by and encourage selfies in the salon which means free marketing. 90 / hji.co.uk
3 SHOWS, 3 VENUES Register your interest for free tickets at www.hjlive.co.uk
EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
PRESENTED BY
JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.
REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE
jobs.hji.co.uk/register
CAREERS
Adam Reed
The Master of Editorial L’Oréal Professionnel’s editorial ambassador discusses his love for 100% natural hair and why he’s the happiest he’s ever been How did you get into the industry?
I started hairdressing when I was 13 in Somerset. I worked on Saturdays and school holidays doing everything I could to support the team from sweeping the floors and stocking products to helping on reception. I just wanted to learn. I moved to London when I was 20 and this really shaped me and my hair career. I’ve been Percy and Reed Salons’ co-founder for over 11 years and I’m the happiest I’ve ever been. Can you tell us about your role?
My role is so diverse – one day I could be leading an education course for L’Oréal Professionnel and the next I could be leading a team backstage for a TV show or on stage showcasing my colour trend predictions. There is also a huge amount of travel involved in my current role. It’s taken me everywhere from Paris and Portugal to further afield places like Dubai and India. Social media means our work can be seen globally and this opens the door for even more opportunities.
beautiful hair and I created a really gorgeous blonde balayage that framed the face for L’Oréal Professionnel a few years ago. It was understated, yet classic and beautiful.
is possible and the images you create. You will build unparalleled trust between your clients and peers. You should also be kind and don’t have an ego.
What are the go-to products in your kitbag?
What challenges have you faced in your career so far?
If I only had one product, it would be L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Pli. You can layer it, spray it on your pins and grips. It can also be used to break product back down if you use too much of another. I also love the new L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Transformer Lotion and Infinium for a good hold.
I’m not good at making decisions and sometimes it’s hard to know when the right time is to make a move. This is something I have to take a lot of time to consider in my career.
What are your tips for building a name in the industry?
My top tip is honesty – be honest about everything you talk about, what
Can you tell us about the 0% retouched and 100% Tecni.Art campaign?
The campaign is all about 0% retouching which is something I’m fanatical about. I believe hair shouldn’t look like a painting – it should look like thousands of individual strands of fibres. The collection celebrates diversity and is designed for all hair textures and genders. The hair I created for the campaign (pictured top right) was about movement and texture with the product working in synergy. What are your favourite styles from the ones you’ve created?
I love a bit of volume. The hair I created for L’Oréal Colour Trophy (pictured right) last year was a really brilliant process. I love the method of creativity and letting my inspiration take the lead. I also love classically 93 / hji.co.uk
What’s your advice for someone who aspires to have a career like yours?
My advice for an aspiring ambassador is to make sure you love the products you’re working with because your relationship with the brand needs to be authentic.
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team
We are Currently Looking for Young Hairdressers for Cut and Colour – Mephisto Germany We are currently looking for a young stylist who excels within cutting and colouring. This role is specifically for a full time position. International teaching with Wella and Sassoon studios will also be required to be undertaken by the preferred candidate to develop their hairdressing skills to the highest level. Experience with hairdressing is preferred. Please find a link of our website below for more details: https://www.mephistohandwerkstatt.de/the-spirit/ If you are interested in applying for the role, please send your cv to team@mephisto-handwerkstatt.de or call the salon on 0049 89346992
JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.
Love Hair is a boutique hair salon located in Central Hong Kong that specializes in healthier, more natural products. With creativity and innovation in the industry leading their efforts, Love Hair strives to ensure the health and happiness of each client’s hair needs. The salon is an environmentally conscious business, looking to minimize their carbon footprint in any way possible. Love Hair will be recycling, utilizing locally filtered water and serving clients with safer, more natural products. With eco flooring, reclaimed wood shelving and screens, stepping into the salon takes you to a peaceful, relaxing environment. We are an extremely busy salon servicing international clientele from all over the world, we are currently a British team looking to expand the team. As stylists, we continue to learn from each other and adapt to our clients’ needs. We have seen the art of hair colour change dramatically since we started our careers. Gone are the days where it was as simple as a half or full head of highlights or lowlights. Nowadays we need to use a combination of techniques such as balayage, baby lights, free hand and much, much more to meet the demands of our clients. We are looking for an ambitious confident individual who never stops learning and is up for an adventure. We will be organizing trade tests for the position late April. Please apply by sending your CV to info@lovehairhk.com
www.lovehairhk.com
94 / hji.co.uk
REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE jobs.hji.co.uk/register
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376
Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
Job Summary The Salon are an established award winning hair & beauty salon located in the heart of Orpington High Street. We are a driven business with great ambition and high standards, and we are now recruiting for a creative, passionate and talented individual to join our team. Required to be well presented and professionally mannered at all times. To aim to surpass client expectation and deliver high standard results. To work as a team & offer support to colleagues when they are in need.
Job Type / Category FULL TIME / PART TIME / PERMENANT Full time - 40 hours per week Part time - Flexible - Late night required * Competitive salary * Basic salary & commission scheme
Required Education, Skills and Qualifications
Hairstylist and Salon Assistants wanted We currently have a fantastic opportunity for a senior stylist and salon assistant to work in our friendly, organised, beautifully refurbished salon on a full time basis. The vacancy is available for our two salons in South East London, Eltham and Woolwich. Beyond the Fringe is an Alan D hairdressing provider and there is the possibility to grow further within the business as well as earning £25,000 and over for the successful candidate.
The Ideal Stylist Must have: Z Have a minimum of 3 Years Experience Z Have excellent Cutting and Colour competence Z Have a compassionate and friendly disposition
We are looking for a stylist of all experiences from Graduate to style director, but to be able to deliver: - Exceptional customer service skills - Excellent consultation skills - Skilled in both ladies & gents cutting/colouring - L’Oréal professional colour knowledge a bonus - Hair up a bonus - To provide homecare advice - To have the ability to maintain a professional manner when faced with a difficult situation
The ideal Salon Assistant must have: Z Exceptional customer service at all times. Z Ability to meet and greet Clients and direct them specifically to various parts of the salon to receive treatments. Z Professionalism when answering incoming phone calls and scheduling clients for appointments.
Benefits
We offer:
- L’Oreal professional training provided
Z Excellent career prospects including salon ownership. Z Ongoing training. Z Commission structure of 35% Immediate start and full training available for the right candidate.
quarterly in salon - L’Oreal professional academy based courses - Incentives and bonus’s - Opportunity for progession - complimentary Hair services - 30% off beauty treatments - 30% off retail products - 30% off friends & family discount Job Types: Full-time, Part-time, Permanent
If you have the qualifications, qualities to fill this position, and eager to improve your clientele, this role may be for you.
Woolwich SE18
If you are interested to apply for the role, please email your CV to director@thesalon-kent.co.uk or call 01689 875577
Eltham SE9
Please apply with CV to enquiries@beyondthefringe.co.uk
About us At Cloud Twelve we take pride in our multi-skilled workforce. Our team is flexible, productive, aware of high-quality service and morale. We are lifestyle club focused around balance, beauty and wellness for families and our clients expect our staff to be discreet as well as personable. Cloud Twelve’s salon is expanding and looking for a Senior Stylist to join our elite team. The Senior Stylist is an integral part to the smooth running of our salon as well as delivering excellent hair services. Working closely with the Head of Salon and Spa and the General Manager, they will harness their natural people skills and passion for world-class service, ensuring that every customer has an exceptional experience. Main Purpose of the role The role will require a talented stylist to carry out treatments with thorough knowledge and passion for the concepts and ethos, as well as the products and professional treatments on offer. The candidate must be highly organised with plenty of experience in a busy, luxury salon. We would also expect them to contribute towards the achievement of the company’s strategic and salon objectives. What do you have to achieve? • Deliver world class treatments and guest service. • Engage teams to consistently excel and develop. • Achieve commercial outcomes for revenue and costs. • Take a proactive approach to engaging clients. • Maximise booking and re-bookings. • Create and maintain a culture of complete wellness for clients and team members alike. If you are interested, send your CV to rd@cloudtwelve.co.uk
www.one80salon.com
NOW HIRING One80 is looking for experienced, passionate, and driven Stylists with a customer first mentality. • Attractive service and retail commission • Guaranteed salary minimum • Regular and sustained education and continued career development
@HJI_Jobs
• 50%+ educational reimbursement • Group health insurance plan • 401K • 1K signing bonus after one year
ABOUT US One80 opened its doors in 2006 and rapidly established its status as one of the top salons in the Washington DC area. With many accolades under its belt, One80 continues to grow well beyond the national average, extending its reach to become a nationally recognized salon. One80 consists of a community of award winning stylists and colorists whose unpretentious style and commitment to the highest level of service form the cornerstone of our culture. Our stylists are able to apply the elements that make a look modern and contemporary to every hair style and client comfort level, bridging the gap between individual talent and customer service. HOW TO APPLY Please email your resume and cover letter to natalie@one80salon.com or call us at 202-842-9113
95 / hji.co.uk
@one80salon
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: nicola.c@hji.co.uk
A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation
To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA
0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk
96 / hji.co.uk
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376
EDUCATION AND TRAINING
LEARN THE TRUE ART OF MALE GROOMING Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - The leading barbering expert. i Traditional barbering
i Hot towel cut throat shaving
One day clipper cutting course
i Barbering boot camp
One day course
Four day course
PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk
HOT WATER SYSTEMS
PROPERTY NEW West Berks Country Town. Very Smart Modern Hair & Beauty Salon. Really busy location. Top Class fitout. Two Beauty Rooms. Lease. £4,250wk. £39,950 Addlestone area. Freehold Shop Premises with Hair Salon. Very Smart Ground Floor Lock Up Unit. £1,750wk Five days. Retirement Sale. £320,000 F’hold (or £29,950 on Lease) Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Edgware / Mill Hill area, North London. Good Class Hair Salon. New Lease. £2,000wk. Owner retiring. £39,500 (or £460,000 F’hold inc 2 Bed Flat) Farnborough, Hants. Very Smart Hair / Beauty. Busy location. Parade. New Lease. Well fitted throughout. £2,000wk. Real potential for younger owner. Vendor retiring. £20,000 - Offers Invited Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 West Berks - few miles Newbury - High Class Country Town. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £2,000wk. Real scope younger owner. £18,500
Hot Water Systems
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The Professional’s Choice ...cut costs not quality.
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+ Premium quality chlorine and bleach resistant cotton towels including the Guaranteed Bleach Resistant 100% Cotton Majic Black Towel. + Supremely practical and environmentally IULHQGO\ GLVSRVDEOH :DIŴH +DQG 7RZHOV Unbeatable pricing, compare us and see.
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ZZZ VDORQPDVWHU LQIR or call 0115 9754 500 Place your order today: T: 0121 7739091 / 7720936 E: info@majestictowels.co.uk www.majestictowels.co.uk
WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk
SCISSOR SHARPENING
, /MajesticTowels / @majestictowels
GROUP
Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture POSTAL & WHILE-U-WAIT SCISSORS SERVICE Professional Japanese hand sharpening
SCISSORS SHARPENING £18 CUSTOM NAME LASERING £18 inc. immediate return by 1st Class recorded delivery +£5 Next Day Delivery per order
Unit8 Hanover West, 161 Acton Lane, London NW10 7NB T: 020 8965 0585 www.dowa-international.com
97 / hji.co.uk
Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/
INSPIRATION
Life Through a Lens
T Versatility
“My daughter Jordanna and I created this when we relaunched the salon in 2018. It was a very exciting time for me to be back where I belong. It was a window campaign to catch the eye of the consumer by showing versatility in cut, colour and style.”
C y l r e v Be
Cobella’s founder and Goldwell ambassador has an MBE and has won HJ’s British Hairdresser of the Year sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional twice. She loves creating timeless looks and here are some of her favourites W An emotional connection
“This image is from my Identity collection for Goldwell UK. It’s essential to surround yourself with a team that understand your vision. I love the synergy of cut and colour but it’s the emotional connection that gives you the money shot.”
T Memories
“I shot my BHA winning collection on the day of 9/11 in London with Clive Arrowsmith. My American model was in tears. I told her to go home but she stayed to get the shot. The emotion of this image will always be special to me.”
X Simple innocence
“This photograph was taken from an eight-page fashion shoot I did for Toni & Guy Magazine. I loved working with super talented photographer, Stuart Weston. Working on hair for a fashion shoot is very different from working on your own collection. It is such an amalgamation of different strengths from the team. I love the simplicity and innocence of this particular shot, which is courtesy of Toni & Guy.” 98 / hji.co.uk
S Like mother, like daughter “This was one of the first looks my daughter and I worked on together. It was inevitably going to be a memorable day. The mood and the silhouette stood out as the most striking of the collection.”
W Unstructured structure
“I created an unstructured effect within a structure. I get such a buzz from designing a cut when it’s the model’s own hair with no hair pieces. There are no rules or restrictions, only the ones we allow to get in the way. Clive Arrowsmith’s amazing photography makes it come to life beautifully.”
URGENT HELP FOR THE PLIGHT OF POLAR BEARS IF WE DON’T TAKE IMMEDIATE ACTION, POLAR BEARS COULD BE THE FIRST SPECIES TO BECOME EXTINCT DUE TO CLIMATE CHANGE
milk_shake have teamed up with Polar Bears International to raise money for these beautiful animals by producing a special pack containing our best selling products along with a free polar bear soft toy. ®
For every pack sold, milk_shake will make a contribution to this amazing charity, for the protection of polar bears, the good of our planet and for future generations to come*. ®
*in participating salons, while stocks last.
/ DISCOVER MORE AT: MILKSHAKEHAIRCARE.CO.UK / FACEBOOK MILKSHAKEHAIRUK / T. 01392 365177