Hairdressers Journal December 2018 by Hairdressers Journal

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

INSPIRING TODA INSPIRINGTODAY’ TODAY’ TODAY’S Y’S HAIRDRESSER HAIRDRESSER RESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

B r it is h

H a ird re ss in g Aw a r d s 2018 DECEMBER 2018

£5 December 2018 hji.co.uk 1 2

9 770143 691236

GROW YOUR SKILL AND MASTER YOUR CRAFT

with Wella Education 2019 The ‘never stop learning’ philosophy is the key to a successful hairdressing career and that’s why education is at the heart of everything we do. We’re completely focused on developing your skills in one of our state-of-the-art Studios, in your salon or at a location near you. We have everything you need to master your craft. We never stop listening to your needs and the ever-changing demands of your clients and we’ve used your feedback to create our BEST EVER EDUCATION PROGRAMME. The 2019 programme is jam-packed with the education that brings out the best in you.

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CONTENTS

December 2018 News News 08 Industry Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels

HJ Reports International Wella TrendVision Creative Retreat

HJ Reports HJ Live North

Business industry in 2048 20 The To celebrate 30 years in the industry, Michael Van Clarke looks to the future of hairdressing of Attraction 23 Laws Liz McKeon shares how to attract and retain staff is Caring Penny Etheridge 24 Sharing reveals the benefits of

a profit-sharing scheme

Insta Trends Get ahead of the colours that will be on your clients’ grids in 2019

Exclusive 2018 Wages Survey HJ partners with the NHF to reveal your average salon wages

British Hairdressing Awards 2018 Meet the winners of this year’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional

Career Inspiration We explore the variety of jobs in hairdressing

ALTER EGO

Features

100

Inspiration

Regulars

Subs Offer Subscribe and win a Balmain curling iron

111

Interiors Step inside Hair by JFK South Clerk Street in Edinburgh

113

Careers Zoe Irwin shares her career path and tips

118

#HairInspo Get to know Robert Eaton like never before

British Nominee Collections The amazing work of three of this year’s British Hairdresser of the Year, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional nominees Fashion Four exclusive collections to delight and inspire you this month 4 / hji.co.uk

On the cover:

EDITOR’S LETTER

Hair: Krista Ward Wella TrendVision Color Vision UK winner

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7360

Managing Director Mark Moloney

Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7363

We l co m e

appy Christmas everyone! We’ve got lots to celebrate in this issue. Firstly, you’ll see on the right that your fabulous front cover is one of four beautiful hair creations. Each cover features one of this year’s amazing UK Wella TrendVision award-winning looks. We’d love to know which one you received this month, so please do share a picture with us on our social channels. Next on the celebration agenda is one of the biggest highlights of the year for the Hairdressers Journal International team. Last month we hosted HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. It was an incredible evening and every year the finalists manage to raise the bar with their stunning collections. Go to page 43 to find out what you missed on the night and who left the after party holding one of this year’s iconic trophies. Plus, from page 71 we’re featuring the first of this year’s incredible British nominee collections with more to follow in our January issue. The new year is just around the corner so we’re also taking a look ahead at 2019’s Instagram colour trends and the courses available if your resolution is to shake-up your hairdressing career. Finally, we’ve got Michael Van Clarke’s predictions on what hair salons will look like 30 years from now and how you can prepare today for the future on page 20. We hope you have a much-deserved rest over Christmas and we’ll see you in 2019!

Hair: Nikki Clifford Wella TrendVision Creative Vision UK winner

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7369

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7377

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7366

Hair: Lieanne Buckley Wella TrendVision Male Grooming UK winner

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane.a@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk ∞ 0203 841 7376

Hair: Stephanie Gallagher Wella TrendVision Runway winner Make-up: Komal Patel Make-up assistant: Hannah Carter Photography: Kevin Luchmun Photography assistant: Patryk Seaman 5 / hji.co.uk

Event Manager Sharon Webb sharon@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7374 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 7351 0536 Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 7351 0536

BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK

INDUSTRY NEWS The winners of the National Hairdressers Federation Business Awards were announced last month. NHF president Agnes Leonard said: “We launched our business awards last year to recognise the achievements of business owners across the UK and we would like to congratulate all of our winners for their hard work and determination.” The winners included CODE Hair Consultants Ltd for best independent hair or beauty salon. Best barbering business went to The Master Barber’s Shop. The best new business of 2018 was awarded to H&Co Hair Salon. Melissa Timperley Salons was given the award for the best client experience, House of Hair received best community support and Nathan Klein from Shine Hair Ltd was named best apprentice. Richard Wallace Hair received the front of house award and eBlade Scissors received best innovation. The awards also featured the winners of the 2018 Photographic Stylist of the Year competition. Ben Madle, HeadHunters won the female fashion look (non-professional photography) award. Emma Simmons, Salon54 won the male fashion look (nonprofessional photography) award. Royston Blythe of Royston Blythe Hairdressers received the female fashion look (professional photography) award and the male fashion look (professional photography) award was given to Aimee McPherson, Hidden Heights Creative Studio.

SHUTTERSTOCK

NHF Business Awards Winners

The Autumn Budget for Salon Owners The Autumn Budget had some good news for salon owners, but celebrate with prosecco, rather than champagne, hair and beauty business consultant Ryan Fox told HJ. Here he explains the pros and cons of the Autumn Budget for salon owners: The pros: • Business rates for firms with a rateable value of £51,000 or less will be cut by a third over two years. You should check with your local authority to see how much you will save and when. • The contribution for small companies to the apprenticeship levy will be reduced from 10% to 5%, which will be good for salons that rely on apprentices for growth. • The personal allowance, currently £11,850, rises to £12,500 from next April. The higher rate threshold is £50,000, so salon owners and stylists can make more money before paying tax. • The corporation tax rate will remain at 19% in 2019 and fall to 17% in 2020, so salons who are set up as companies will pay less tax too. The cons: • Unemployment is low and there is a 8 / hji.co.uk

shortage of stylists, which means workers are in demand and expect higher wages. The National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage will rise in April 2019 to £3.90 for apprentices, £4.35 for under 18s, £6.15 for 18 to 20-year olds, £7.70 for 21 to 24-year olds and £8.21 for anyone aged 25 and over. • Changes to tax legislation in a bid to combat tax avoidance is currently aimed at large and medium sized organisations, but it is expected to filter down to small businesses, which could affect self-employed salons. • The Dividend Allowance, now £2,000, is likely to disappear from 2020. A salon that takes dividends to top up a low salary will pay 7.5% (over the £2,000) in tax as a basic rate taxpayer, 32.5% as a higher rate taxpayer and 38.1% as an additional rate taxpayer. • The plan to make tax digital will apply from April 2019 starting with VAT payments. Businesses, including salons, over the VAT threshold will have to keep digital records for VAT. For more on this year’s Autumn Budget go to hji.co.uk.

NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

The King of the High Street

Henkel’s New General Manager

Rising demand for male grooming services has triggered a barbershop boom. Almost 350 barbershops opened on Britain’s high streets this year, said research firm Local Data Company. “With the growing influence of social media, TV and the internet, there’s an emphasis on people looking and feeling good. This applies just as much to men as it does to women,” said Hilary Hall, the National Hairdressers Federation chief executive. This has created a new market of image-conscious men who want to be professionally groomed on a regular basis. Keith Conniford, registrar at the Hair and Barber Council agrees. He said: “The public’s perception of barbering as an industry has changed

Henkel has appointed Julian Crane as new general manager for Henkel Beauty Care Professional UK & Ireland, following the departure of Stuart Hamid. Julian will report directly to Rodolfo Schornberg, regional head of Henkel Beauty Care, Schwarzkopf Professional, Western Europe. Julian said: “One of my most important tasks will be to get out and meet our salon and wholesale customers.” dramatically over the past few years.” But despite the boom, there are reservations about the future of the industry. Hilary explained many barbershops charge low prices which rely on high volumes of sales, but these are difficult to achieve when there are competing

businesses up and down the high street. She said the worry is that the rise of barbershops will lead to ‘far too many cash only ones who charge rock bottom prices, ignore all their responsibilities and work completely under the radar when it comes to enforcement’.

TIGI’s Inspirational Youth T Unite Relaunches with Salon Success Unite Haircare has now returned to the UK with a Salon Success exclusive partnership. The partnership aims to bring product innovation, professional education and support to haircare experts and salons across the UK. “This is a natural collaboration between Unite and Salon Success,” said Andrew Dale, Unite’s brand founder. He added: “We share in our mission to make salon professional’s lives easier by giving stylists the tools they need to succeed in their craft.”

he annual TIGI Inspirational Youth Show celebrated the young talent working across TIGI’s salons last month. The team of 10 were invited on a creative boot camp and were given a professional photoshoot before performing at the live show. TIGI’s UK general manager Mark Bleathman told the audience: “We want to provide you with inspirational and practical content that you can use in your salons.” TIGI founder Anthony Mascolo added: “Tonight is about young people stepping outside of their comfort zone.” The evening featured live cutting and styling by: Adam West (Forresters), Amy Lynn (Bad Apple), Claire Thorpe (Scots), Dana Hoeck (Regis), Jasmin Dewer (Muse), Lesley Farrell (F&M), Marc Hensman (Mesart), Megan Nicholls (Inkfish), Rebecca McKay (Andrew Collinge) and Rebecca Stradling (Molbys).

9 / hji.co.uk

Rush Hair’s 100th Salon Opening Rush Hair and Beauty opened its 100th salon in the Westfield Shopping Centre at London’s Shepherd’s Bush last month. The company has salons across the UK and wanted London’s shopping hub to be its centennial opening. Joint founder Stell Andrew said: “For myself and Andy Phouli, this opening is a fantastic achievement and one we couldn’t have done without our incredible team.” For more information about Rush Hair or to apply for a job position go to jobs.hji.co.uk.

NEWS

HOB’s 35 th Anniversary Show

NHF’s new Ambassadors The National Hairdressers Federation (NHF) and the National Beauty Federation (NBF) have named three new ambassadors – Anne Veck, Christian Wiles and Hellen Ward. The trio will motivate and inspire members across the UK to build successful and profitable businesses. Anne said: “The NHF has been a lifeline for us ever since I opened my first salon over 25 years ago.” Christian said: “I can’t wait to give back to the industry and share some of the knowledge I’ve gained over the years.” Hilary Hall, NHF and NBF chief executive said: “The ambassadors will make a real difference to hair and beauty businesses by injecting fresh passion, new ideas and innovative ways of working that could transform UK salons.”

The Regional Salon Awards 2018 The Salon Awards swept across the UK’s counties last month with winners crowned in Essex, Sussex, Hampshire and Yorkshire. The award for the best salon in Essex went to Spargo Hairdressing – Brentwood. Tony Wood Hairdressing received the best salon in Hampshire award. Silk Hair Boutique received the title of best salon in West Sussex and Samuel Chapman Salon was crowned the best salon in East Sussex. Finally, Unique’s Cottingham salon won the best salon in Yorkshire.

HOB Academy hosted its annual HOB Uncut event to a sell-out audience as part of its 35th anniversary celebrations. The show featured 35 years of iconic HOB looks with 14 models who were cut and styled live on stage by Akin Konizi and his team. The models were also given a modern interpretation to demonstrate how the styles have evolved into current trends. Sean Nolan, HOB’s head of technical, described the thought process and application techniques behind his colour work, which featured quintessential HOB looks, including silvery blondes, raven blacks and bold shades that were shaken up with animal print. The HOB Creative Team is available for bespoke education bookings at salons across the UK and will be delivering a programme of courses at the HOB Academy in 2019.

Electric Unveils New Ambassador Salon B ritish professional haircare brand Electric is now available from the DNA Art Space salon in Nottingham. To celebrate the collaboration the salon hosted an all-day event last month that was open to clients, team members, local press and industry influencers. Mark Woolley, the Electric brand’s founder and Sean Dawson, Electric London’s salon manager gave attendees creative and educational advice. Mark delivered a presentation to explain the inspiration behind the brand and how to use each product. During the launch party Mark, Sean and DNA Art Space co-owner Dale Herne showcased the versatility of the range by styling a model with different Electric Professional products.

Dale said: “The event was a great success. Everyone left with an appreciation of the Electric brand and our DNA Art Space salon. We showed how two driven, British brands can join forces to offer higher standards. Our guests were enthused by the inspiration shared and our clients were impressed. They understood Electric’s philosophy and we sold a lot of products.” Mark added: “It’s great to welcome the DNA team into the Electric family. We’re already working with leading, influential salon owners and artists from across London, Los Angeles, New York, Miami and Toronto. Our focus now is to grow the brand in the UK and work with forward-thinking salons like DNA Art Space.”

Toni & Guy’s Breakthrough Team Xtra 2018 Toni & Guy’s Breakthrough Team Xtra 2018 in partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel showcased its final looks to a panel of judges last month. The 12 rising stars in the Toni & Guy network have spent the past year working as a team at photoshoots and assisting backstage at London Fashion Week and London Fashion Week Men’s. As their year on the mentorship programme drew to a close, they competed to win the Breakthrough Champions crown. Team 2, which included Katie Prescott (Canary Wharf), Casper Finch (Solihull), Timea Csereklye (South Kensington) and 10 / hji.co.uk

Laura Everitt (Wolverhampton), took home the top prize after putting together impressive cuts, colours and styling. The 12 rising stars in next year’s Breakthrough Team Xtra mentor programme will include: Massimo Verrengia (Sloane Square), Gabriele D’Avella (Islington), Caroline Gonzalez (Kensington), Ignas Dilys (Altringham), Agne Nemeiksyte (Colchester), Lucia Gaeta (Curzon Street), Michaele Bazzoli (Long Acre), Tomer Nagar (Kensington), Matthew Darvill (Dorchester), Eloise Williams (North Audley Street), Elle Hadland (Stockton Heath) and Gloria Dalla Benetta (Westfield White City).

SPONSORED BRANDS

PROCARE UNVEILS POP-UP FOILS rocare, the UK’s leading P manufacturer of hair foils has added a new pack of

ADVANCED PRO SALON LAUNCHES COLOURCODE Advanced Pro Salon has launched a new range of salon professional hair colour. ColourCode was developed by a team of celebrity stylists and master colourists with over 40 years of salon professional experience. The range features 117 shades, including special blondes, pure naturals, rich naturals, deep browns, vibrant reds, pastels and a special mix. The 60ml tube aims to deliver permanent and demipermanent dual colour performance for long lasting and colour-rich depth with up to 100% grey coverage. The range is infused with an

exclusive ProPlex technology that repairs hair from within, while anti-breakage and strengthening properties leave hair silky smooth. Advanced Pro Salon’s director, Rob Collier said: “We are confident Advanced Pro Salon will rapidly become one of the industry’s leading colour houses as ColourCode establishes itself within salons as one of the best professional colour formulations ever produced.” For more information about Advanced Pro Salon go to advancedprosalon.co.uk.

Grow by Hair Gain Launches in the UK

he UK’s first vegan, vegetarian and halal approved hair supplement, Grow by Hair Gain is stocked in beauty salons and spas via gerrard international. com and is now looking to partner with professional hair salons. The product was developed by a mum who suffered post-partum hair loss after giving birth and it has already received press coverage for delivering visible results. It is designed to promote

visibly thicker and stronger hair in one month. Grow by Hair Gain contains an exclusive ingredient called AnaGain that is derived from the organic pea shoot. This is combined with vitamins and minerals to give your clients the perfect formula for gorgeous and healthy hair from within. To find out how to stock Grow by Hair Gain in your salon go to hairgainnow.com or email enquiries@hairgainnow.com. 11 / hji.co.uk

premium pop-up foil sheets to its extensive range of colour placement products. The pack contains 500 embossed pre-cut sheets of silver foil for highlighting and colouring. The sheets are non-slip with an embossed finish for grip so they can be used straight from the box and applied directly to the hair. The foil sheets are suitable for stylists working on the go as well as those working in busy salons. For more information and to learn more about the full range of films, foils and dispensers, call 0117 965 0616 or go to hairfoil.com.

R+CO’S IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE +Co’s Vision On event in Los R Angeles served as the finale to the brand’s legends tour, which travelled across the US with brand founders Garren, Howard McLaren and Thom Priano. The event was dedicated to hair legends from the 1920s to the present day. Founder Garren presented ‘Unforgettable Images of our Generation,’ with eight looks on one model. UK educator Natasha Briggs said: “Watching and learning from the collective was incredibly inspiring. I’ve learned more about the trade that I enjoy, revisiting the culture of hairdressing with an in-depth account of their hairdressing journeys and the work was simply amazing.” For more information about R+Co visit randco.com, email uk@randco.com or call 01442 248 104.

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

Season of Giving! SHUTTERSTOCK

ecember is the busiest month of the year for you, so D we wanted to bring some festive cheer as you go full steam ahead into the new year. HJ’s Season of Giving, starting on the 3 December will be 12 days filled with tips, advice, giveaways and fun to get you through the hectic festive period.

Join the Tribe We’ve joined forces with the team behind Hairtribe. The brand is all about creating slick educational content with the biggest industry names. Hairtribe’s videos are available at Hairtribe.tv. We are offering a sneak peek on our website and if you like what you see there’s an amazing introductory offer exclusively for HJ readers. Search for Hairtribe on hji.co.uk.

12 / hji.co.uk

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Social Shout Out

#BHA18

@sylvestre_finold I’m fascinated by the avant garde world and Sylvestre’s account gives a behind-thescenes glimpse of it! Akesha, digital editor

The winners have been crowned and we now know who took home the 2018 titles. If you weren’t at the awards, you can see all of the behind the scenes action by searching #bha18 on Instagram and Twitter.

@georgiabellhair Brighten up your day with Georgia’s fun grid. Her striking images will encourage you to think outside of the box in terms of your colour placement and cutting styles. Laura Husband, HJ editor

Mohican Madness Everyone is going mad for Ross Charles’ video on how to create a Mohican on YouTube. Ross shows the time and effort it takes to create the stand-out style and will make you want to recreate the look yourself!

@braidbarbers The grid from Braid Barbers is a fusion of bad-ass barbering and first-class photography. Charlotte, HJ Men editor 13 / hji.co.uk

HJ REPORTS

Wella Professionals’

CREATIVE RETREAT Wella Professionals invited UK Creative TrendVision winner Nikki Clifford, UK Color TrendVision winner Krista Ward and HJ to its first International TrendVision Creative Retreat Experience in Lisbon

ver 76 national winners from 43 countries landed in Lisbon last month to take part in a mentoring experience designed to take their award-winning skills to the next level with hands-on workshops, talks and challenges. Coty Professional Beauty’s president Sylvie Moreau told HJ exclusively: “We wanted to reinvent the awards this year to keep it fresh and demonstrate our commitment to supporting the best young talent in the industry.” A jury of 16 mentors voted on who would win this year's International Creative and Color Vision categories based on their winning national TrendVision looks. Sylvie added: “The new format for the International Trend Vision Awards means all of the national winners have even more opportunities to win as part of a team with multiple challenges and and seven awards in total.”

Thursday The national winners were welcomed to the retreat with a networking dinner. They were put into one of eight teams and each team had two mentors. The competitors were placed with mentors who had similar working styles and creative ideas. The winners from each country competed in challenges within their teams (pictured above) and the mentors helped them at every stage.

Friday The morning featured a number of inspirational sessions. The first one was delivered by Coty Professional Beauty's global ambassador Rossano Ferretti. He demonstrated his signature personalised styling for clients. Next, global creative director Eugene Souleiman created a buzz with his striking looks from recent fashion week shows (pictured left). US celebrity hairstylist Sarah Potempa presented the social media workshop. After Sarah’s session, the competitors were invited to take part in the first challenge – a social media competition. The aim was to make the posts as fun as possible and make the judges smile. The posts were measured on the creativity of the storytelling. 14 / hji.co.uk

Meet the winners

International TrendVision Award 2018 Color Vision Winner: Tanya Grant, Joey Scandizzo Salon, Australia

International TrendVision Award 2018 Creative Vision Winner: Sergei Chernyshev, Pavel Okhapkin Studio Salon, Russia

ghd Queenmaker Winner: Team 1 (mentors Abby Smith and Dmitry Vinokurov)

Saturday Updo expert Patrick Cameron (pictured above) expanded his following by impressing the competitors with his hairstyling skills. He showed how to create a pin-up in 10 minutes without using any grips. Creative hairstylist Reiner Sauter gave a talk about upcoming trends and each team’s mentors individually presented their own style of work and shared what inspires them. The first practical hair challenge was to create a beautiful and simple style to reflect Wella's EIMI brand. The competitors worked in their teams to create a standout look, and when the time was up, the team members directed the model on a photoshoot. For the Couture Color challenge, the teams were asked to create vintage and lived-in colour using a colour palette consisting of eight shades.

Sunday The last day kicked-off with the ghd Queenmaker competition where the teams created a ghd-themed style. Finally, they put together a collection for the Couture Collection category, which featured the looks they had created during the retreat. The awards and farewell dinner took place in the evening, and as the competitors enjoyed a three-course meal, the winning teams for Social Media, EIMI, ghd, Couture Color and Couture Collection were announced. The winners for the International TrendVision Color Vision and Creative Vision were also revealed. Once the formal proceedings were over the teams partied until the early hours before flying home. Nikki Clifford, the UK's Creative TrendVision winner said: “I learned so many new techniques during the retreat and it was a once in a lifetime experience. It was incredible that my team, including UK Color TrendVision winner Krista Ward (both pictured with the UK flag above), won the ghd Queenmaker challenge!” 15 / hji.co.uk

SpeakEIMI Winner: Team 4 (mentors Cyrill Brune and Matthias Herzberg)

Couture Color Winner: Team 8 (mentors Darren Ambrose and Jayson Gray)

Couture Collection Winner: Team 8 (mentors Darren Ambrose and Jayson Gray)

Social Media Winner: Anastasia Petrova

5th - 7th October 2019 | ExCeL London

SAVE THE Register your interest now for 2019 Earlybird tickets www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest In association with

DATE Hair: Claire Chell and Heather Shaw at Francesco Group Make-up: Becky Hunting Photography: Alex Styles

ROBERT EATO

GUY KREMER

OUTLIN

E CREA TIVE TE AM

TREVOR SORBIE ART TEAM

JORDANN

A COBELL

HJ REPORTS

Northern

SOUL LINTON & MA C

From modern mod haircuts to flower-accessorised tresses, HJ Live North offered two days filled with free education and inspiration in Manchester Showcasing talent from across the UK, HJ Live North at Manchester Central gave visitors the chance to see hairdressing and barbering greats as well as artists tipped for success on the live stages. Plus, crowds flocked to see leading brands and to stock up on all of their salonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite products. 18 / hji.co.uk

HJ REPORTS

SAKS ART TEAM

ROSS CHARLES

WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM

GEORGIA BELL

HJ Stage highlights Attendees could get up close and personal with hair creations at the show’s live stages – the HJ Stage, in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, and the HJ Men Stage, in association with Wahl. The HJ Stage featured industry names like Robert Eaton, Anne Veck, Rick Roberts, Jordanna Cobella and Guy Kremer, as well as artistic teams such as the Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team, Saks Art Team, Wella Professionals Team, Gavin McIntyre Artistic Team and Contemporary Art Team. The teams impressed with a mix of boundarybreaking and wearable hair looks. Guy crafted impressive flower crowns and the Trevor Sorbie Art Team perfected their delicate avant garde work in front of a packed audience. Twisted Scissors’ Georgia Bell made her debut at the show and explained how she thinks outside of the box with colour and is building a brand for a clientele who want to experiment so she can enjoy doing what she loves best.

The Men’s Stage debut The HJ Men Stage in association with Wahl made its debut appearance at HJ Live North this year. The stage drew a crowd with acts such as the Wahl Artistic Team, Ruger and Outline Creative Team demonstrating their skills. The stage also provided a platform for HJ Men Stage first-timers Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms and Tony Haresign. Teddy brought the mods and rockers spirit of Brighton to Manchester and Tony revealed how his graphic novel-inspired hair collection came together. Barbers and male hairdressers were also treated to the British Barbering Association’s heats for its Britain’s Best Shave competition. The heats took place in a unique boxing ring where attendees could watch all of the action live.

Brands galore Regardless of whether attendees were on the hunt for styling, colour or barbering products, the brands at HJ Live North had it all. Alan Howard showcased Alfa Italia, Matrix, Sexy Hair and new styling hero Amika, as well as Salon Success and Salon Services who brought Olaplex, Celeb Luxury and Maria Nila to the show. 19 / hji.co.uk

BUSINESS

As Michael Van Clarke celebrates his salon’s 30th anniversary, he shares his thoughts on what the hair industry could look like in 30 years time and how to prepare for it now Michael Van Clarke celebrates 30 Years More money and less time 1 Market demand will continue to polarise into two groups – speed and entertainment. A good example of speed would be going to Starbucks for coffee. Clients who want speed in the salon will be results-driven and will want clinically efficient offerings. London’s Soho House is a good example of entertainment– it’s a glamorous, social and inspiring space that offers care, relaxation and nourishment for the soul. It’s useful to look at the services provided in a space like Soho House and consider how you could offer an express version that is consistently good and consistently quick to tap into both types of market demand in your salon. Holistic health movement 2 Hairdressers acquire a deep level of trust and influence over a client’s hair health. The number of UK salons solely offering hair services is shrinking, while the number offering both hair and beauty is growing. The key to the survival of the NHS is educating people on disease prevention rather than cure. In fact, some high-level think tanks have suggested it could be cheaper for the NHS to fund haircare and facials in salons to improve self-esteem and boost personal care. Beauty salon services and wellbeing services are moving closer together as beauty is seen more clearly as an expression of health rather than a cosmetic veneer. Salons can be used

to bring practitioners together. For example, psychology, nutrition, fitness and strength will be a focus for the Michael Van Clarke salon in 2019. We’ll be extending our offering to include more holistic wellness with a medical gym opening next to our existing salon. This will be a personal training facility with nutritionists and medical staff on hand to advise on health issues and practices for a healthier life. We’ll also partner with health retreats to give an exclusive wellness programme to our clients. This will complement our natural approach to hair and beauty. As part of the plan we will offer more services in home visits and create quiet clublike spaces for clients to relax and spend time. We will also provide express treatments for quick results and develop more effective training methods for our team and the industry. The value of me time 3 Clients will pay to have ‘me time’ in a peaceful environment. Retail stores have adapted to the power of online by using their bricks and mortar stores to create an experience. Salons will need more square footage to give clients time and space to relax. Food and drink areas, spa areas and spaces for quiet working are some of the reasons why members choose to join membership clubs. There are lots of opportunities to keep clients in your salon for longer and wanting to come back regularly if you make it entertaining and relaxing for them. 20 / hji.co.uk

“Over the past 30 years I’ve had many successes and even more failures. I opened my salon five days before Christmas in 1988, which was not the best timing. I knew that if we didn’t open as soon as the refit was complete, we would’ve run out of cash and not opened at all. Similarly, I hadn’t prepared for running a new business sufficiently. It was unfortunate that I opened ahead of the late 1980s recession. The property was worth half what we’d paid for it in the following 11 years with interest rates on the mortgage going up to 18.5% at one point. The salon has been going strong for 30 years. Our loyal team and clients mean we can deal with any challenge and keep moving forwards. Teaching apprentices is one of the most rewarding aspects of my career with many opening their own salons and staying in touch as part of our alumni community.”

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The Hair Industry in 2048

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WELLA HACKS: TACKLE DAMAGED HAIR

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Wella Professionals technical director Robert Eaton and colour creative Clayde Baumann explain how to identify and tackle damage in the salon this winter using Koleston Perfect with ME+

Identify the problem 1 The winter months can cause havoc to your client’s hair. The weather is colder, which can cause hair to become dry and frizzy. Cold temperatures cause the cuticle of the hair to lift slightly meaning moisture is released and hair becomes dryer and more brittle. Hair colour can also be damaged by the lifting of the cuticle as colour is not sealed so it could be prone to fading. As it gets colder outside, the central heating goes on inside, which can dry out and harm the hair. You may also find clients style their hair more in the winter months, especially in the run up to the Christmas party season, which can lead to excess mechanical damage from using hot tools. Explain the problem 2 Show your client the visual indicators for damaged hair, such as split ends or colour banding. You can also carry out a porosity test during the appointment. Take a single strand of hair and elevate it away from the hair shaft and run your finger down the hair shaft against the cuticle scales to see if the cuticles are swollen. Solve the problem Using products and treatments 3 that keep hair strong and hydrated are fantastic, but you also need to keep

clients educated. It’s important to guide clients on how they can help reduce the impact of the weather and the tools they use between appointments. You could show them the correct blow-drying techniques and the right temperature for styling their hair as well as bespoke tips for their hair type. Advise clients to have regular in-salon treatments such as Wella Professionals Fusion Intense Repair service and System Professional LuxeOil Emulsion treatment. WELLAPLEX can also be used to keep the structural integrity of the hair in place. A preventative measure is to suggest deeper shades in the winter months as this will reduce excess peroxide usage, which may lead to chemical damage and will add to mechanical damage from tools. Generate extra revenue 4 Listen to your client during the consultation to find out if their lifestyle is affecting their hair’s health. Use this knowledge to upsell relevant products. Today’s clients understand haircare is just as important as skincare and appreciate the benefits. Suggesting a product that will work for your client’s hair will mean they will be more likely to repeat purchase from you in future.

#AskForWella wella.co.uk

WellaUK

WellaHairUK 22 / hji.co.uk

How can Koleston Perfect with ME+ help? Koleston Perfect with ME+ has advanced technology that improves the texture of the hair, helping it feel stronger and healthier. Colour lasts longer, and clients can experience a salon professional finish for longer between professional colour appointments. It can also be used as a glossing service to maintain shine, colour and client frequency. Pure Balance Technology identifies where the hair is porous and where it would otherwise grab onto cooler tones that may look banded or uneven. This means it gives hair a beautiful quality, without you having to worry about excess porosity.

BUSINESS Five essential interview tips

Prepare a separate interview score sheet for each candidate: It is crucial to rate each candidate, as you may not be able to recall specific details of the interview later.

Get the setting right: Both you and the candidate need to be comfortable and reasonably relaxed to get the most out of the interview.

3 SHUTTERSTOCK

Communicate clearly: Remember you are not there to scare the candidate. This will be counterproductive because the person will become too nervous and less likely to do themselves justice.

Do you Attract the Right People? Losing a member of staff and having to find someone new can be a challenge. Liz McKeon shares her insights on how to identify and retain the best fit for your salon team

n average UK worker changes employer once every five years, according to a recent study. This means just under a quarter of employees (23%) are looking for a new job at least once a year. Today’s job applicants are no longer motivated by the same factors as previous generations with greater emphasis being placed on a good work-life balance and having a sense of purpose above financial success. Salary remains a motivating factor, but wellbeing, personal progression and having a cultural fit with a prospective employer, all play a big part in the decision-making process. As a business owner there are many challenges to success. The greatest challenge for all hair salon businesses, however, is how to attract and retain great people as without a great team, your salon cannot succeed. The success of any business is based on having the right people in the right jobs with the right skill set. This is true for both management positions and those on the front line. Successful salons must have a people process

that encompasses business strategy, recruitment and long-term employee retention to ensure business success. Here are the three steps you need to follow to secure and retain the best staff in your salon. Step 1: Develop a business strategy Consider these key questions: • What are you doing? • Where do you want your salon to go? • What are your unique selling points? • How do you differentiate your salon from others offering similar services? • How will you approach your local marketplace? Step 2: ,MÅVM I KWUXIVa K]T\]ZM Determining your company’s culture is the single most important part of any salon’s foundation. It defines how you want to be known by your customers, suppliers and employees. Step 3: Identify people skills, KWUXM\MVKQM[ IVL M`XMZQMVKM Identify the people you need to achieve your business goals and who will fit into your salon’s culture. Having the right ‘fit’ is critical, 23 / hji.co.uk

Use open questions and remember the 80/20 rule: As the interviewer you speak 20% of the time and the candidate should speak 80% of the time.

Encourage the candidate to ask questions: Once you have all the important information you need written down, ask the candidate if there’s anything they want to know about you and your salon business.

therefore you need to create a profile explaining the skills and competencies that are required for your business. Take this information and start to develop a job description. It is important to focus on the duties, responsibilities and skills that are necessary for the job, as well as the right fit for your salon’s culture. When interviewing job candidates, it’s important to involve others in the process as everyone has weak spots when interviewing. If possible, let others participate and allow them to take a look at the profile and job description. When making the final decision, choose the candidate who best fits the position and the culture within your salon. Liz McKeon is an author, business coach and trainer who specialises in the hair industry. For details about upcoming events, business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.

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BUSINESS

Profit-Sharing is the Future Discover how to motivate and retain your best team members with Penny Etheridge’s tips for introducing a profit-sharing scheme in the salon

istributing profits as a percentage of annual pay is common practice in many industries but not in the professional hairdressing sector. Rent-a-chair and self-employment salons have risen to nearly 50% over the past three years. This has arguably led to employed staff questioning whether they should be self-employed. Salon owners often ask me how to motivate staff financially and encourage them to stay if that’s why they are leaving. I believe the solution is to start an organised and recognised profit-share system within your salon company.

the employees who are responsible for managing the company, making decisions, taking more risks and providing leadership to other employees. These are people who are committed to fostering the team and creating co-operation among staff. Set the parameters 3 You need to decide what each staff member must achieve to qualify for the scheme. This can be a monetary target or can be measured in terms of key performance indicators. Produce a policy document 4 A company policy document must be available to all relevant staff

Decide your percentage 1 What percentage of the profits would you like to be allocated to

members to read and review, detailing the information in the points above.

your scheme? This can be a profit percentage of the entire company and you could have a communal pool that each staff member can qualify for. For example, 20% of the company profits could be available to the scheme and all of the staff who qualify can draw from this pool. Alternatively, you might decide on x% of company profit per staff member.

Assess at the end of the year 5 At this point you need to decide how much of the profit is allocated to

who to include 2 Decide Make your decision based on

the scheme and how much to each of the staff members. Profit-sharing is usually based on the company’s annual profits. However, some companies pay out the profit share quarterly based on the premise that employee recognition is most effective when it is used to reward employee efforts in real-time, as opposed to waiting for the end of the year. 24 / hji.co.uk

The pros and cons of XZWÅ\ [PIZQVO The positive impact of profit-sharing is it sends the message that all employees are working together on the same team. Employees have the same goals and are rewarded equally to reinforce a shared service to customers. Employees who know they will receive financial rewards if the company does well will be motivated to help the company succeed because they have a vested interest in the company’s success. The weakness of profit-sharing is individual employees can’t see how their own work and actions have impacted the profitability of the company. Consequently, while employees enjoy receiving their profit-sharing money, it could be seen as an entitlement rather than a motivational factor.

Penny Etheridge is a business coach and lecturer with over 30 years experience in the business. She runs Radiant Hair & Beauty Consultancy. For more information go to radiant hairandbeautyconsultancy.com.

Subscribe this month and win a Balmain Hair Couture Professional Ceramic Curling Iron Balmain Hair Couture’s professional curling tools are inspired by the expertise of the Balmain Hair backstage stylist team. The Balmain Professional Ceramic Curling Iron is designed for professionals and provides the ultimate styling surface to give curls more bounce and shine. The ceramic barrel technology features even heat distribution to eliminate any damaging hot spots. Plus, ceramic is known to emit hair-conditioning ions to help hair retain its own moisture for soft styles in a fraction of the time. The iron is available in two sizes – 32mm for tighter curls and 38mm for looser ones. Three new subscribers will have the chance to win a Balmain Hair Couture Professional Ceramic Curling Iron 38mm worth £99.95.

Subscribe to Hairdressers Journal International and quote reference HJIDEC For information on Balmain Hair Couture call 0800 781 0936 or visit balmainhair.co.uk

Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: + 44 ( 0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates UK: one year print £60, one year tablet £40+VAT, one year print and tablet £75+VAT. For overseas rates visit www.hjsubs.co.uk Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 133 No. 65601 December 2018. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Wyndeham, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2018 M Squared Media

26 / hji.co.uk

COLOUR

THE COLOURS OF 2019 The shades and techniques your clients will be requesting in the new year HAIR: TIGI 27 / hji.co.uk

For further information on TIGI Copyright Care please contact TIGI on: 0344 844 0944 or email: eu.customerservice@tigi.com www.tigicopyright.com

@tigicopyright

SOS Extreme Recovery System helps improve the internal condition of hair to provide resilience before, during or after salon chemical treatments or a colour service (when used as a system with Repair shampoo and conditioner vs traditional shampoo).

TIGI COPYRIGHT: EMPOWERING HAIRDRESSERS TO CREATE BESPOKE SOLUTIONS TO THEIR CLIENTS’ HAIR. “I HAV E ALWAYS BE LIE VED IN C RE AT IN G PE RSONA LISED HA I R ST Y LES TO SUIT EAC H CLIE NT ’S INDI VID UA L NEED S A N D I’ M ALSO AWAR E M A NY C LIEN TS LOVE T HE IR HA IR TO LOO K H E A LT H Y, SHI NY A ND SOFT. T HIS IS E SPEC IA LLY SO O F C LI EN T S W HO REGU L AR LY VISIT YOUR SA LON F OR COLOU R. WI TH T I GI COPYRIGHT, SA LONS CA N OFFE R TH E IR C LIENT S B E SP O KE IN-SALON TR EATM ENT S A N D PE RSONA LISED COLOU R S, WIT H TA ILORED A FT E RC A RE FOR T HEI R AT-HO M E REG I M E . ” A N T H O N Y MA S CO LO T I G I F O U N DER & I NT ERN ATI O NA L C RE AT I VE DI R EC TOR .

“MY C LI E N TS AT S TI L T HI N K T I GI COPYRIGH T IS FA NTA ST IC . AS A COLO UR S P ECI AL I S T S A LON, WE A RE A B LE TO PROVID E A TRU LY C US TO MI S ED EX P E RI E N CE CLI ENT S A PPRECI AT E A N D EN JOY. US I N G T I G I CR E AT I V E CO NSULTAT ION MY TEA M A ND I AR E AB LE TO C REAT E T HE P ERF EC T C LIENT J OURNEY F ROM H AIR D IAGNOS I S , TO B ES P OKE COLO UR C REAT IO N, C USTOM ISED TR E ATM E N T O P TI O N S A N D P RE S CRIPT IVE TA KE HOM E C A RE.” C H RI S T EL LU NDQVI S T DIRECTOR OF STIL, NOTTING HILL & TIGI GLOBAL TECHNICAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR.

“COP Y RI G HT C A RE IS A WOND E RFUL N EW STA RT F OR T HE WI N T ER S EA SON. T HE PRODUC TS H AVE GRE AT PERF ORM A NC E WI TH FA N TA STI C COLOUR PROTECT ION A ND T H E M A N Y UN IQ U E P RO DU CT S A RE C REAT ING BET T ER SA LE S A ND PROM OTI NG CU S TOM E R LOYA LT Y. I’D H IG HLY RECOMME ND T I GI COPYRI GH T CA RE TO E V ERY SALO N OWNE R. T HE RE SULT S SPEA K FOR T HE M S E LV E S!” ANDREW JOSE D I R ECTO R , A NDR EW JO S E S ALON, F I T ZROVI A .

To find out more about TIGI Copyright phone: 0344 844 0944 www.tigicopyright.com | #CopyrightYourHair | #TIGIcopyright

COLOUR

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Love it or loathe it, Instagram is how most clients hear about the latest colour trends so it’s crucial you’re always up to date and, ideally, one step ahead of the current craze. Take note of the shades and techniques below that will be all over your clients’ grids in 2019…

#Selfie filtered hair Clients will increasingly come into the salon requesting a shade they’ve created using an Instagram filter. Here’s an at-a-glance guide to what filters offer which tone… • Reyes – cleaner and cooler vibes • Juno – slightly warmer with depth and definition • Slumber – warm with honey hues • Crema – warm and peachy tones

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

#INSTA TREND 50+ shades of grey

Silver hair now combines multiple shades of silver and grey in a balayage. “Just when we thought grey hair was over, in comes the grey ombre trend. It’s a move away from the allover grey and silvers on Instagram,” explains Neil Barton, Goldwell UK guest artist. Neil says this trend is based on two factors – more clients are embracing their greys and it is an easy to maintain, yet cool look. “Darker roots and lighter grey ends can help disguise but still show off grey hair. This trend does require upkeep. I recommend KMS Color Vitality Shampoo and Conditioner to avoid colour fading and to keep the vibrant grey tones for as long as possible.” To keep grey hair on tone avoid using excessive heat, which can remove the toner more quickly. Ceri Cushen, creative director at Metropolis Hairdressing, Kingston-upon-Thames suggests turning down the temperature on styling tools. She uses Revlon Professional Stylemasters Lissaver Heat Protector before applying direct heat. Get the look: From Gothic Black to Platinum, the Affinage Infiniti Gothic Series is a line-up that is perfect for creating a grey balayage. The range of five deposit-only shades is perfect for use on natural white or grey hair and on pre-lightened hair to a very light blonde.

In the pink Ranging from the lightest pastel to the brightest fuchsia, pink hair will continue to have a strong presence on Instagram feeds across the globe. Here’s a guide to tone terminology with matching images from Heffy Wheeler, owner of HX Hair and OSMO brand ambassador.

Pink lemonade

Metallic rose

Millennial pink 30 / hji.co.uk

Barbie pink

#pinkhair 5.6 million posts

Fuchsia

COLOUR

Bespoke blonde blends

The after-care prescription Online blonde shampoo searches are up 71%, according to Netbase and Google search data. The Pureology Strength Cure Best Blonde range is a three-step programme that can help clients tone, bond and strengthen their hair at home.

SARAH BLACK INDOLA

Cocktail hour “We offer a service we like to call ‘custom cocktailing’. We take the four Malibu C primary colours and create colour conditioners for our clients to experiment at home,” says Jade Smith, owner of Assisi salon in Cleethorpes and educator for Passion4Hair.

ASHLEY REEDMAN

Bye, bye brassiness “Balmain Couleurs Couture has a blue or violet base, so brassiness is not an issue,” explains Simon Tuckwell, Balmain Hair educator and artisan. Couleurs Couture comprises 61 intermixable shades and comes with a recommended home treatment plan.

ZOE DAVIS

With 40% of all UK in-salon appointments driven by blonde services, here’s how to make your blonde offering stand out from the crowd

The denim series

Light denim: milk_shake Smoothies Pastels, Icy Blue

SIOBHAN JONES HEADMASTERS

14.8K posts

ROBERT EATON

SHUTTERSTOCK

#denimhair

SHUTTERSTOCK

Indigo: Schwarzkopf Professional Lucid Nocturnes

“Right now, fringes are long and blondes are honeyed circa the 1970s. Keep tones warm and creamy and when styling clients hair make it tousled and lived-in,” says Sarah Black, colour expert and principal stylist at Linton and Mac. 31 / hji.co.uk

RSTOC K SHUTT E

Identified as one of the key colour trends for 2019 by Wella Professionals, Amber Slate offers a #1970s modern approach to a traditional copper colour. “Amber Slate goes 1.1 million really well with the 1970s fashion posts that people are wearing,” explains Zoe Irwin, UK colour trend expert for Wella Professionals. “It is a warm colour with some cool undertones, so it suits a wide range of clients.” On paler skin tones Amber Slate complements lavender blue, green and hazel eyes. While on warmer skin tones you should use a placement of Amber Slate internally but on a base that is deeper.

TOCK SHUTTERS

Medium wash: Alter Ego Be Blonde Denim Mauve Pastel Toner

From fashion (think leopard print coats and corduroy), to TV programmes such as The Little Drummer Girl, the decade of glamour is having a cultural resurgence and the hair world wants a piece of the 1970s pie.

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That 70s show

COLOUR

#rainbow hair 769K posts

Rainbow hair “The rainbow hair trend is visually about as striking as it gets. With a pre-lightened base nothing is off limits. For clients who don’t want to commit to a full head, rainbow under lights is a great choice. Using mesh or foils on long hair means your chosen colours can be painted without blending to create a statement. Freehand blending gives a softer result as each colour melts into the next giving the ever popular ombré with a twist. The OSMO Color Pyscho 14-piece range is perfect for rainbow creatives.” Heffy Wheeler, owner of HX Hair and OSMO brand ambassador HEFFY WHEELER

ANDREW SMITH

Whether it takes the form of a hidden panel or an all-over multi-coloured ‘do, rainbow hues continue to be a strong trend on Instagram. Here’s some inspiration and quick step-by-steps to whet your creative appetite.

Fizzy Bubblegum by Andrew Smith Section the hair into two using a keyhole sectioning shape. Apply milk_shake Smoothie Icy Blue to the entire bottom section Apply milk_shake Smoothie Pink Grapefruit to the entire top section.

GAVIN MCINTYRE

Hue you looking at?

Fruit salad hair, by Gavin McIntyre and G&E McIntyre art team Section the hair into large triangular sections throughout the entire head. This should be roughly 11 triangles depending on your client’s head size. Apply the Alter Ego Italy Be Blonde Pastel Toner Pink Pop 30g + 5vol Coactivator Cream 60g to the entire root area alternating the amount of stretch from three to six inches. Apply Alter Ego Italy Yellow Booster 20g + 5vol Coactivator Cream 40g colour to the lengths of all triangles with three inches of root colour. Make sure you thoroughly smudge the colours together. Apply a Peach colour made up of Alter Ego Italy Be Blonde Pastel Toner Dusty Copper 20g + 1g Orange Booster + 10vol Coactivator Cream 42g to the lengths of the remaining triangles again thoroughly smudging into the root colour on the join.

1 2 3

Have you tried Guy Tang’s #mydentity Super Power direct dyes yet? Available exclusively from Sally Salon Services, there are 12 vibrant shades to experiment with!

Colour + Afro = Win

Here are two nourishing colour ranges to consider: • Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+ colours hair without compromising the condition. In fact the more you colour hair with ME+ the better the condition gets. • Kevin Murphy Color.Me contains a blend of shea butters and oils which means the colour re-hydrates thirsty hair. 34 / hji.co.uk

ROBERT EATON

There’s been a noticeable increase in the number of Instagram posts featuring colourful Afro hair. A decline in straightening treatments for Afro hair means it is in better condition and more likely to take and hold colour. If you are colouring Afro hair, it’s crucial to choose a nourishing formulation that will keep it hydrated.

COLOUR

MINT LONDON

Intergalactic tones • Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Satinescent contains the latest reflective colour technology. There are six shades to choose from if you want to create three-dimensional results – Midnight Blue, Khaki Bronze, Deep Pearl, Antique Rose, Mauve Glacé and Smoky Silver. • Add space age vibes to a client’s hair for the party season with L’Oréal Professionnel Flash Pro Hair Make-up. It’s available in three new shades, including Silver is Coming and Golden Bubbles. • Alternatively, you can achieve a permanent metallic and pastel look with Hair Passion. The brand has created an innovative generation of pigments which deliver longer-lasting colour.

JAYMZ MARSTERS

At the styling station: Warren Boodaghians, TIGI’s global academy technical creative director says: “Coconut oil is the key ingredient in TIGI Copyright Colour Lustre Oil, which nourishes, fights frizz and adds radiance to all hair types and leaves it shining like glass.”

GOLDWELL

At the backwash: Anna Short, colour director at Daniel Galvin, recommends a clear gloss at the backwash. “Shampoo onto hair, leave on for five minutes, rinse and follow with a Kérastase Fusio Dose for ultimate shine.”

TONY HAIRDRESSING

This is a bob haircut with blunt ends and an all-over glossy colour that is styled poker straight and has an out-of-this-world glass shine. Here are two quick ways to achieve high-shine hair:

LINTON AND MAC

Glass hair

Seeing red From subtle rouge highlights to rich wine-inspired tresses, red locks are back in a big way. It can be tricky to perfect and hard for clients to maintain that Insta-worthy colour at home so here are four key points to consider…

Work with saturated mixes to create wine tones such as Bordeaux and Beaujolais. “Add hints of pink to create a more vibrant tone and give a classic red an update. For a more expensive red wine tone, mix blue and violet into the basic colour,” explains Warren Boodaghians, TIGI’s global academy technical creative director. Choose colour wisely. The IDHair Specials range consists of four red hues that work to lift and tone the hair at the same time, cutting through underlying tones to allow even those with a dark base to achieve vibrant red and copper hues. Understand which red tones will suit your client’s skin. “Orange-based reds, coppers and copper golds are warm and soft tones, regardless of how vivid they are,” explains Beverley C, Goldwell’s UK guest artist. “Mahogany, damsons and violet reds are far more cool and look amazing when #redhair matched to paler skin tones. I use Goldwell colour mixed 14 million with @Pure Pigments which posts gives an almost reflective 3D colour effect.” Educate clients about maintenance. A colour specific shampoo such as Schwarzkopf Professional BC Bonacure Color Freeze Vibrant Red and Gel Igora Color Worx Concentrates brighten and give a new lease of life to red hair. Gemma Hensman, director at Hensmans and Schwarzkopf Professional UK ambassador shares her top tip: “Add an in-salon treatment such as Schwarzkopf Professional’s Fibre Clinix to your client’s appointment. This will stop fade and increase the vibrancy, while keeping hair in its best condition.”

Paint the town red with Fudge Professional Paintbox Red Corvette – it lasts from three to 30 washes, so it is perfect for those looking for a low-commitment red.

35 / hji.co.uk

MUSE OF LONDON

COLOUR

Food for thought Here are the must-have foodie-inspired shades to add to your service menu or salon social media platforms in 2019 • Aubergine “This is one of my favourite tones and it works really well on brunettes. For aubergine hair I make plummy dark hues melt into gorgeous softer purple tones,” explains Francesca Dixon, creative colourist at Hari’s Hair Salon. Get the look: Redken HDResolution in 5.62 Red Violet • Chocolate Muse of London has created a new campaign featuring six chocolate shades using TIGI Copyright Colours. White Chocolate Praline, Melted Chocolate Mousse, Champagne Truffle, Strawberry Ganache, Cinnamon Salted Caramel and Dark Chocolate can all be used with glossing, highlights, babylights, lowlights and all over tints. • Mushroom “The mushroom trend shows how people are embracing the warmer shades of grey and silver. As hairdressers we can work with what the hair can lift to, rather than pushing the hair past its limit,” explains Lee Belcher, Kevin Murphy’s gold key educator. Get the look: Kevin Murphy Color.Me 7.2 + 7.31 + soft violet

#chocolate hair 67.2K posts

Language decoder

@ASHLEYREEDMAN_HAIR

CASEY COLEMAN

ZOE DAVIS @TONY_HAIRDRESSING

Gemma Amura, technical consultant and trends expert for Salon Success, helps translate the buzz words your clients will have seen on Instagram. “The new terms might sound different, but they really are just twists on classic techniques. You already have all the knowledge you need,” points out Gemma.

Trend term: Toasted coconut – 50.8K

Trend term: Money piece – 47.1K

Trend term: Tiger eye – 20.1K

What is it? A toasty brown at the roots that moves into a coconut blonde at the ends.

What is it? Highlighted sections in a balayage that frame the face in a natural and flattering way.

What is it? Multi-dimensional bronze, amber and dark brown shades arranged in a pattern, similar to the semi precious tiger’s eye stone.

How to do it? Create a seamless ombré from a darker root to a luminous blonde end.

How to do it? Add radiance and definition with face-framing babylights around the hairline.

How to do it? Apply the tiger eye colours using a balayage technique.

36 / hji.co.uk

Superfast processing time!

Re-energize your salon colour and help fight the fade with this intense colour conditioning cream. With a superfast 3 minute processing time, hair colour is refreshed and vibrancy restored.

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R ETU R N H A I R TO V I RG I N S TR EN G T H IN JUST 5 MINUTES * N E W TIGI CO PYRIGHT CARE SO S RECOV E RY PRO FE SSIO NAL. PE RSO NAL. PE RFECT.

For further information on TIGI Copyright Care please contact TIGI on: 0344 844 0944 or email: eu.customerservice@tigi.com www.tigicopyright.com

@tigicopyright

* SOS Extreme Recovery System helps improve the internal condition of hair to provide resilience before, during or after salon chemical treatments or a colour service (when used as a system with Repair shampoo and conditioner vs traditional shampoo).

WAGES

D o yo u

EARN ENOUGH? The National Hairdressers Federation’s exclusive salary survey, in partnership with Hairdressers Journal International, has revealed low wages in hair salons across the UK is contributing to a sector-wide staffing shortage

£11.39

£13.65 £9.11

£8.17

£7.11

£8.89

£5.00

£8.46

£7.35

£9.26

£12.43

Highest average

£8.20

Lowest average

£10.29

£4.19

Meet the respondents The NHF received 698 responses for its anonymous wages survey with salon owners making up almost three quarters (73%) of those who took part, 13% were individual employees, 7% were salon managers and 7% were selfemployed chair or room renters, freelancers or educators. Over two thirds of those who filled out the survey (68%) had employees working in their salon, while a quarter had a mix of employed and self-employed staff and 7% had only 39 / hji.co.uk

Manager

Receptionist

Barber (more than 2 years' experience)

Barber (less than 2 years' experience)

Stylist (more than 2 years' experience)

0 Stylist (less than 2 years' experience)

The low wage problem “We’re caught in a vicious circle where salon owners can’t recruit qualified and experienced staff. Employees are leaving the industry or going self-employed because of low pay,” explains Hilary Hall, NHF chief executive. She adds: “If we want to attract and retain talented people, they have to be paid a wage which reflects their professionalism, skills and experience. Without good people, salons literally don’t have a business.” Hilary believes it is essential to have client prices that will cover rising costs and to work out pay structures and commissions that will boost earnings for employees and profits for salon owners. The salon owners who took part in the survey recognise low wages are making it difficult to recruit and retain good staff. Many said they can’t pay more because of rising costs and they are unable to increase client prices due to the stiff competition for business in their local area.

Comparison of the lowest and highest hourly pay in the UK

Apprentices

he nationwide struggle to recruit and retain apprentices and key members of staff is a huge concern for today’s hairdressing sector. A new survey by the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF), in association with HJ, has found low wages could be a contributing factor to the recruitment problem with most hairdressers and barbers earning close to the National Minimum Wage. In fact, the survey found only experienced staff and those working in London are earning over the National Minimum Wage or the National Living Wage for anyone aged 25 or over.

“Hairdressing needs to improve pay and conditions if it is to compete successfully with other creative industries for young talent.” Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons

WAGES self-employed staff. London and the home counties accounted for 27% of the respondents, 13% were based in Southern England, 11% were based in Central England and the remainder were spread across the rest of the country. The main salon service offered by the respondents was hairdressing for men and women (462), closely followed by beauty (353), and 110 of those surveyed offer barbering services in their salon. Only 16 respondents offer a single ladies hairdressing service, with most of those surveyed offering multiple services in their salon. The largest group who took part in the survey came from a salon with one to five chairs (36%), 19% worked in a salon with six to seven chairs, while 24% worked in a salon with eight to 10 chairs.

£10-£15 Average manager wage per hour

Bonuses and commissions The survey found over three quarters of those who took part (77%) pay bonuses or commissions. The smaller salons operating below the VAT threshold of £85,000 were less likely to pay in this way. There was a variety of bonus and commission structures on offer with 50% offering a percentage of anything earned above a set target, 25% paying a percentage of service and retail takings, 23% offering a percentage of retail sales only and 23% providing a Christmas bonus. Bonuses were more likely to be given in beauty salons (81%) than hair salons (75%). However, the survey found hair salon staff were more likely to get a bonus at Christmas than beauty salon staff. Some salon owners struggle with creating an effective wage and commission structure. One respondent said: “We struggle with setting the right commission level, making sure our stylists are earning a decent wage, while also making sure the business is healthy.” NHF business coach Steve Hilliard suggests a simple ‘win-win’ pay rise system. “Staff can earn pay rises on merit and at the same time salon profits grow as well.”

ILLUSTRATION: ELLA BYWORTH

Lowest and highest average earnings The respondents were asked to share the lowest rate paid for each position in the salon and the highest rate for each position. Once this data was received, the NHF calculated the lowest and highest average hourly rate for all UK salons. The most commonly paid hourly wage for apprentices was £3.70, which is below the National Minimum Wage of £4.20 for anyone under 18. For stylists with less than two years’ experience the range for the most commonly paid wage was £7.50 to £8, which is in line with the National Living Wage of £7.83 for anyone aged 25 or over. Stylists with over two years’ experience earned between £8 and £10, and managers earned between £10 and £15. Both the experienced stylist group and manager group are earning above the National Living Wage. Anne Veck from Anne Veck Salons is a living wage employer and pays a minimum of £8.85 per hour. She says: “Hairdressing needs to improve pay and conditions if it is to compete successfully with other creative industries for young talent. At the moment many qualified hairdressers are paid less than they should be.” NHF coach Simon Harris believes many salons are frightened to increase prices for clients, which means salons cannot increase wages. “If salons are charging less than the equivalent rate of £60 per hour, their margins will decrease to the point where the business is not viable.”

40 / hji.co.uk

“Salons across the UK are reporting difficulties in recruiting and retaining staff. This survey shows the majority of employees earn close to minimum wage.” Hilary Hall, NHF chief executive

WAGES

Number of chairs in the salon

£3.70 Average apprentice wage per hour

£8-£10

36%

Average stylist wage per hour

1-5 chairs

19%

6-7 chairs

24%

8-10 chairs

14%

11-15 chairs

15 or more chairs 41 / hji.co.uk

WAGES Job satisfaction and perks Fortunately, money is not the only way to guarantee employee satisfaction in the workplace. Working with other team members and feeling appreciated are also important and do not cost the salon anything. The majority of the survey’s employee respondents listed ‘making clients feel good’ as being the main reason for feeling happy in the workplace (84 responses) and this was followed by ‘working with other team members (69 responses). Earning good money was the sixth reason for employees feeling happy in the workplace. The respondents were also asked to list the main perks of the job and the main benefit of working in a salon was listed as free services and treatments (359 respondents), followed by free drinks (348 respondents) and staff discounts (327 respondents).

The perks of the job The respondents rated the main benefits of working in a salon

359

348

327

Free service or treatments

Free drinks

Staff discounts

220

128

112

Free car parking

Paid time off for medical appointments

Holidays above the statutory minimum

“We struggle with setting the right commission level and wage, while making sure the business is healthy.” Anonymous survey respondent

Respondents predict what will happen to wages in 2019 Salon owners

51%

Employees 53%

36%

21%

Will go up well above inflation

Will go up higher than inflation

Will go up a little in line with inflation

Will stay the same as last year

Will go down

The winners and losers The majority of the survey’s salon turnover sat between £50k and £500k (71%), with most of those who took part in the survey stating their turnover had gone up slightly compared to last year (41%). Only 8% of respondents said their salon’s turnover had gone up significantly and 22% said it had stayed the same. Barbershops are the winner in terms of turnover for 2018 as they take the top spot for being the most popular independent business start-up. The NHF’s barbering ambassador Christian Wiles said: “It’s great to see that business owners have embraced the opportunity. Early adopters have seen significant benefits to their business and salon owners who wish to grow should consider accommodating the needs of this booming segment of the industry.” Salons cater for different markets even if they are in the same area, so it is difficult to make generalisations about what’s happening across the country. For example, Central England and South England were found to be both winners and losers in terms of turnover as the survey found some salons in those areas were suffering from decreased turnover while others were benefiting from an increase in turnover. The battle of the pay rise Most salons surveyed reported wages had gone up a little in the past year, in line with inflation. The salons where wages had not increased were more likely to have seen their turnover go down. Salon owners are more optimistic about their present and future pay. The majority of employees questioned said their wages had stayed the same this year (51%), while 36% said their wages had gone up in line with inflation. On the other hand, only 17% of salon owners said their pay had stayed the same with the majority (43%) saying their pay had gone up in line with inflation and 30% said their pay had gone up by more than inflation. The majority of employee respondents predict their pay will stay the same in 2019 (51%) compared to 21% of salon owners. While, over a third of employee respondents believe wages will go up in line with inflation in 2019, compared with 53% of salon owner respondents. Hilary points out that wage rises in line with inflation mean wages are keeping pace with increases in the cost of living rather than giving a real terms pay rise. She says: “Salons across the UK are reporting difficulties in recruiting and retaining qualified and experienced staff. This survey shows the majority of employees earn close to minimum wage.” This survey was carried out by the NHF, which provides business training and one-to-one coaching support to hair salons, covering topics such as getting your prices right, five steps to profit, salaries, bonuses and commissions, motivating your team, and growing your retail sales. For more information, visit nhf.info.

42 / hji.co.uk

NIGHT OF THE STARS HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, has revealed the 16 inspirational winners to watch thanks to their stunning award-winning collections. Here’s a summary of what was a truly memorable occasion presented by the witty and charming TV personality Rylan Clark-Neal

The HJ Team on stage with Rylan

The British Hairdresser The judging process of the Year HJ’s executive director

HJ’s editorial team Akesha Reid, Laura Husband and Charlotte Grant-West (pictured left to right) took to the stage to announce the award winners with this year’s host Rylan.

Sally Brooks was delighted to receive her replica British Hairdresser of the Year 2017 trophy at the beginning of the night and was over the moon to win the title again in 2018!

Jayne Lewis-Orr thanked the judges. She said: “The judging process is constantly reviewed to ensure the right decision is made in each and every category.”

The Hall of Fame for 2018 Charlotte Mensah, Rush Artistic Team and Suzie McGill were inducted into the Hall of Fame after collecting an award in the same category three times.

#BHA18 goes viral lf a million views of our We’ve already had almost ha BHA GIFs on Instagram! 43 / hji.co.uk

MIDLANDS

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “Thank you to my photographer Richard Miles, my make-up artist and stylist for the collection and my dream team at Nicola Smyth salons. I also want to thank my husband, Dan.”

N i co l a Sm yt h Nicola Smyth Award Winning Hair, Leamington Spa

44 / hji.co.uk

NORTH WESTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“We did not expect this award at all! The work in this category is amazing. Thank you to HJ and Schwarzkopf Professional.”

a i c c o M o l l e c Mar an d Ka re n Pe rry Room97 Creative, Wakefield

45 / hji.co.uk

NORTHERN IRELAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“Emma Burchett, thanks for the brilliant colour and Glen Norwood for the photography. Samantha, you are everything that keeps me going.”

Damien Jo hn sto n Pure Hair, Belfast

46 / hji.co.uk

SCOTTISH

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“I’ve always wanted to do this and now I have! Thank you so much to all my team that have helped me over the years.”

Karen Th om so n Kam Hair & Body Spa, Lossiemouth

47 / hji.co.uk

NORTH EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“It’s such a huge honour to receive this award. Thank you to everyone in our team who helped to create this collection. We also want to mention Robert Eaton because his creativity inspires us every day.”

Isobel Eaton an d Je ss e Ja ckso n Russell Eaton Salons

48 / hji.co.uk

SOUTHERN

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “I’ve got a great team behind me, so I’d like to thank my photographer Robert Lobetta, my partner Ceri Cushen who helped select the models and the Metropolis team.”

Robert Ma sc iave Metropolis Hairdressing, Kingston Upon Thames

49 / hji.co.uk

WALES & SOUTH WEST

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“Thank you to my wife Debbie for make-up, my photographer Richard Miles, my stylist Bernard Connolly and everyone who has inspired me.”

S t eve n Sm ar t Smartest 73, Weston-Super-Mare

50 / hji.co.uk

EASTERN

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “We can’t believe it. We want to say a massive thank you to the KH Hair crew and particularly the creative team who have supported us throughout this year. Also, Jack Eames as we couldn’t have done it without you!”

n a g e h g o e Mar y G an d Je ss ica Ne il KH Hair, Nottingham

51 / hji.co.uk

This year saw Schwarzkopf Professional celebrate 120 years of hairdressing prowess – with no shortage of exciting events to mark more than a centenary of innovation. With such a prestige heritage behind them, Schwarzkopf Professional could be forgiven for resting on their well-established laurels – but instead, they continue to spearhead change and disrupt the hairdressing status quo. The last 12 months has seen Schwarzkopf Professional launch game-changing new products, introduce inspiring collaboration initiatives and host exciting experiential events. Here’s a look back at some of the most exciting moments from the last year...

SOMETHING TO

Celebrate

120 YEARS OF INNOVATION

From the brand that brought you the first shampoo powder and has since registered more than 7,600 patent applications, 2018 was a bumper year for innovation. The BC range was relaunched with exciting skincare technology benefits; BlondMe got an on-trend pastel update with the launch of BlushWashes – a wash-in, wash-out way to wear blush tones; and Fibre Clinix changed the way salons offer treatments, with hyper-customised services that fundamentally transform the hair fibre by reconnecting the inner hair structure.

A D N E M E S RE TI R TU E A V FE T

SHOWTIME Schwarzkopf Professional took to the stage – and show floor – at Salon International with an immersive stand, packed full of products (and selfie opportunities!) and inspiring seminars led by Suzie McGill, Debbie G, the BlondME UK ambassadors, Lesley Jennison, Simon Ellis and Tyler Johnston. The sellout live show saw Hooker & Young, X-presion, BlondME UK ambassadors and Lesley, Simon and Tyler present something for everyone with show-stopping techniques, trend reveals and plenty of model inspiration.

All Change November saw Schwarzkopf Professional welcome Julian Crane as General Manager for Beauty Care Professional UK & Ireland. Previously Sales Director for Henkel UK and Ireland’s Beauty Care Retail division, he replaced Stuart Hamid who moved back to Hamburg to lead the German Beauty Care Professional team. “One of the most important tasks ahead will be to get out to meet our salon and wholesale customers,” he commented. “I want to be very visible to them and to understand how we can further enhance our existing partnerships and creative approach.”

Evolving Education As well as ongoing education through the Young Artistic Team, UK ambassador scheme and Shaping Futures initiative, 2018 saw Schwarzkopf Professional launch The Collective – their first digital ambassador program. The team is made up of 12 digitally-active hairdressers from the UK and Ireland, all of whom produce beautiful, relevant and engaging social media. As part of The Collective, they’ve enjoyed experiences, opportunities and education, to help establish them as the next generation of hairdressing influencers.

Best of British The final event in the Schwarzkopf Professional calendar for 2018 is the British Hairdressing Awards. We’re incredibly proud to be sponsors and can’t wait to see what the coming year brings for the winners!

LONDON

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “I’d like to dedicate this award to the legacy of Toni Mascolo. Thank you to my amazing boss Sacha MascoloTarbuck and everyone who works in the Toni & Guy Academy.”

Philipp Ha ug Toni & Guy, Sloane Square

54 / hji.co.uk

AVANT GARDE

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“Being here tonight is the best feeling. I want to thank all of the team at Toni & Guy, especially Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck. I also want to thank my girlfriend who supported me when I was putting my collection together.”

S y l ve s t r e Fin old Toni & Guy, Wimbledon

55 / hji.co.uk

NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR

“I used to go to Salon International and see the British Hairdressing Awards Gallery, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional and I said to myself ‘one day I am going to be there’ – and now I am!”

Gianluca Ca ru so Toni & Guy, North Audley Street, London

56 / hji.co.uk

MEN’S

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “This is such a tough category so I want to congratulate all of the other finalists. Thank you to everyone and especially to Atherton Cox for all your support.”

Desmond Mu rra y Atherton Cox

57 / hji.co.uk

AFRO

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “I’m completely overwhelmed. I put my heart and soul into this collection and I wanted to showcase textured hair and the amazing things you can do with it.”

Michelle Th om ps on Francesco Group, Birmingham

58 / hji.co.uk

ARTISTIC

TEAM OF THE YEAR “This award means so much to us! I want to thank my brothers and my team because without them we wouldn’t have a business!”

Marc Antoni Ar t Te am Marc Antoni

59 / hji.co.uk

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

BRITISH COLOUR

TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR “It’s amazing to win for a third time – these past three years have been incredible. Thank you to Emma Summersby, Richard Miles, Lucy Flower and Clare Frith. Thank you to the Russell Eaton team, Jesse Jackson and my sister Isobel.”

Robert Ea to n Russell Eaton Salons

60 / hji.co.uk

BRITISH

HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR “These awards highlight the diversity of our industry and show there is room for everyone. Thank you to my photographer Jenny Hands for understanding me. Trevor Sorbie should be so proud of everyone he’s put on this stage and I’m overjoyed to win this again.”

Sally Br oo ks Brooks & Brooks

61 / hji.co.uk

THE LIVE PERFORMANCES The 2018 Awards featured seven outstanding shows by the British nominees, an introduction to Schwarzkopf Professional’s Young Artistic Team show and live music from noughties band Scouting for Girls

Darren’s Seraphic show

Sally’s Simplicity show

Errol’s Infinity show

Darren Ambrose brought his striking religious collection to life with a gothic-styled model sporting a textured bob-style.

Sally Brooks presented two models in ethereal white outfits and beautifully soft waves with lots of natural-looking texture.

Errol Douglas’s show featured two models sporting fashion-forward metallic outfits and hair adorned with sparkling jewels.

Hooker & Young’s show

Cos’s Decadence show

Angelo’s Muse 2 show

Hooker & Young’s show relayed the fun and individual styles featured in their collection with 1970s-themed platinum textured wigs.

Cos Sakkas’s debut British nominee collection featured trend-led looks with an impressive red coil style and pastel pink sleek effect.

Angelo Seminara’s show gave the audience the wow factor with see-through outfits combined with striking patterned Afros.

Jamie’s Vibrancy show

The Schwarzkopf Professional Scouting for Girls live music

Young Artistic Team show Jamie Stevens’ models styled each other’s hair on stage and finished the The Young Artistic Team show, look with a giant balloon lifting the directed by Tyler Johnston was filled hair up into the air for an epic finale. with stunning wearable hair looks. 62 / hji.co.uk

The noughties band had everyone on their feet and dancing to their smash hits including ‘This Ain’t a Love Song’ and ‘She’s So Lovely’.

Mar

Attend CREATE YOUR LOOK sessions and bring your TrendVision Award 2019 entry to life with an industry-leading photographer.

TRENDVISION AWARD DEADLINE: Get your photographic entries in by Wednesday 20 March.

GET DIGITAL: With exciting new Insta Ready Colour, Digital Influence Lab and Activate Your Digital Business workshops.

THE NATIONWIDE SEARCH FOR THE 2019 WELLA PROFESSIONALS XPOSURE WINNER CLOSES: Don’t miss your chance to be the next rising star. Entry Deadline: Monday 4 February.

May TRENDVISION AWARD REGIONAL HEATS: Don’t miss the shows in Glasgow, Manchester, London and Birmingham.

Sept

Learn more about the WELLA BRANDS and book an IN-SALON TRAINING COURSE for your team.

SAVE THE DATE TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final on Monday 30 September.

July

Apr

BUSINESS NETWORK LIVE… a staple in every salon owner’s diary, get involved!

©Russell Eaton

EDUCATION PACKAGES Brand new for 2019. Plan your education for the year ahead, save 20% and become an expert in your field.

June

Aug

Oct Join a WELLA GUEST ARTIST FOR INCREDIBLE INSPIRATION and improve your skills and craftsmanship.

Nov

©Nicky Clarke

Jan

©TONI&GUY

EDUCATION

PREPARE FOR PARTY SEASON Brush up on your style skills with Insta Waves and Braids or Red Carpet Glamour.

SCHOOLS OUT FOR SUMMER Our brand new Summer Schools will educate and inspire college students, learners and hairdressing apprentices.

Dec

ATTEND THE TRENDVISION AWARD IRELAND HEAT on Monday 19 August.

ACTIVATE YOUR 2020 EDUCATION PLANS WITH WELLA!

CUTTING EDGE EDUCATION The key dates in the Wella Professionals Education Calendar for 2019 CALENDAR IMAGE: WELLA 63 / hji.co.uk

A JOURNEY OF A LIFETIME

So much more than a competition Trendvision Award is an exciting contest that is complemented by an unrivalled programme of digital and face to face mentoring at every stage. We have a stellar line up of award winning mentors hand-picked to inspire and designed to bring out the best in you. We have a social media programme brimming with digital mentoring for everyone including VTs, top tips and inspirational messages. Then at every stage of the competition we have mentoring sessions with our team of hairdressing icons. The UK Regional & Ireland winners have a full day mentoring and the TrendVision Award 2019 winners will get 4 days of money canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t buy mentoring.

COLOR ARTIST OF THE YEAR

The Categories CREATIVE ARTIST OF THE YEAR

We are searching for beautiful hair color that considers and compliments the personal beauty of the model.

We want to see hair that has an editorial feel and is a beautifully crafted cut & style that demonstrates expertise, d\Z]] R_U TcVReZgV RZc

MALE GROOMING

RUNWAY

Create a total menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look exhibiting excellence in craftsmanship. J`fc Tfe T`]`fc R_U _ZdY ^fde SV Z_daZcVU Sj TfccV_e ^V_}d grooming trends.

Exude creativity in a complete on-trend modern runway look. You can use hair extensions and pieces to create a SVRfeZWf] dej]V R_U _ZdY

Dates for your diary Come along to one of our photographic sessions with industry renowned experts to shoot j`fc ]``\ E` _U `fe ^`cV dVRcTY HV]]R `_ 6gV_eScZeV T`^

Wednesday 20 March (at midday)

PHOTOGRAPHIC RESULTS ANNOUNCED:

UK REGIONAL HEATS:

Ireland Heat:

UK & IRELAND FINAL:

Thursday 4 April

13, 14, 20 & 21 May

Monday 19 August

Monday 30 September

INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRESSER HAIRDRES

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRESSER HAIRDRES

INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRES HAIRDRESSER

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

Wednesday 6 February

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY DEADLINE:

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

SUBMIT YOUR PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY ONLINE FROM:

INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRESSER HAIRDRES

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

This year’s winners have featured on the cover of this month’s Hairdressers Journal.

British Haii rdressiiing Hairdress s ds Award 2018

British Hairdress ing Ha Award s 2018 £5 December 2018 hji.co.uk

British Hairdress ing H Award s 2018 DECEMBER 2018

£5 December 2018 hji.co.uk

DECEMBER 2018

£5 December 2018 hji.co.uk

British

NEXT YEAR IT COULD BE YOU!

Haii rdressiiing Hairdress s ds Award 2018

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EDUCATION

CUTTING

EDGE CAREERS Hairdressing doesn’t have to mean working in a salon, here are some of the exciting opportunities our industry has to offer

rom working backstage at The X Factor to perfecting hair at a funeral home, we uncover the diverse and rewarding routes a career in hairdressing could take you. Plus, those in the know share the skills and training you will need to succeed in your chosen path.

The Instagram aficionado by Jaymz Marsters, salon owner and colourist

“I trained as a hairdresser just as the social media boom was taking off, and I believe it is now a big part of the industry. I wouldn’t say I am a hairdressing influencer as such, but I do see myself as someone who uses Instagram to build a client base and encourage other stylists to build their social media presence. You can influence others, whether you have 50 or 500,000 followers. As social media has developed, it’s become more important to be consistent with your uploads. With the new algorithms on social platforms you need to be regimented or you will fall off people’s feeds and your engagement will drop. I try to upload content daily so I photograph every client and keep a catalogue of images to schedule on days when I am not in the salon. I also have content creation days, where I source models in my local area to have their hair coloured to my choosing. This allows me to create content for my social channels which I know will get high traction. Finding my unique selling point was a challenge, but if you are targeting local users see what others are doing in your area and try and tap into a ‘gap in the market’. No one around me was creating vivid hair so I latched onto it and moved my image and career in that direction.” THE COURSES: Wella Professionals Insta Ready Colour will show you how to fulfil client’s expectations. Schwarzkopf Professional Let’s Get Digital will improve your social media presence.

The hairdresser for the less-abled by Ian Marshall, managing director, Spargoland

The TV stylist “My hairdressing career began when I saw an advert in a salon window for an apprenticeship and thought it sounded brilliant – I’d get to chat to people and be creative. From the moment I “Cutting the hair set foot inside of people with the salon, I loved it. It’s additional needs only got more requires training rewarding since I set up and the right Spargoland, a personality.” salon for people with additional support needs, learning or physical disabilities. Spargoland came about after my nephew Oscar was born with cerebral palsy. He made me realise that few places cater for people like him. For example, Oscar wouldn’t be comfortable having his hair cut in a typical high street salon chair. At Spargoland clients can sit on the floor or I can cut their hair while walking, basically whatever works for them. One of the challenges I face, however, is recruiting because it requires a lot of training and the right personality. I can’t help every client that needs me, so my ultimate goal is to educate the wider industry and encourage more salons to offer a service similar to Spargoland.”

by Adam Reed, L’Oréal Professionnel editorial ambassador

“I’m currently heading up the hair team at The X Factor. Working backstage for live TV requires listening to what the client wants and what the show executives want. It is not the place to showcase your creativity as “TV is not the you have a lot of people to make happy. You should never place to showcase do it for your own ego. You your creativity as really need to demonstrate your skillset while being an you have a lot of outstanding communicator people to make and creating amazing hair with staying power. You need to happy.” be adaptable and really quick. A lot of the time the people you’re styling are going on live TV so you need to make them look their best as calmly and quickly as possible, so they can focus on performing their best.” THE COURSE: L’Oréal Professionnel Tips & Tricks will expand your expertise. From hair up and braiding to bridal and festival, learn how to simplify beautiful styles for any occasion. 66 / hji.co.uk

EDUCATION The hair loss specialist

HAIR: ISOBEL EATON, PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD MILES

by Wil Fleeson, consultant trichologist

The hairdresser’s photographer

“I find hairdressing is upbeat, whereas trichology is intense and emotional, so it can be tricky to do both in the same day. I work as director of Trichology Scotland in a clinic on Monday to Wednesday and on the salon floor at Rainbow Room International on Thursday to Saturday. It takes around 18 months to two years to get a trichology qualification. If you are working at the same time it requires a lot of effort. You need to study about 20 hours a week and do research on top of that. The drop off rate for studying trichology is very high, but the job is so rewarding it’s worth the commitment. It’s the best feeling being able to tell clients what’s going on with their scalp and explaining how you can work together to improve it.” THE COURSE: Wella Professionals The Fascinating World of Trichology with Mark Blake.

by Richard Miles, photographer

“As a photography university graduate, I wanted to specialise in fashion and beauty. My first test happened to be a hair shoot and I found hair imagery was a perfect balance of these two areas. My big break was shooting for Royston Blythe and Nick Malenko when I was “I always try to 22. The shoot was featured in industry bring the hair in magazines and my client list grew from there. The best part of my job is working my images to with a team. Over the years I’ve built life…I need a good rapport with make-up artists, fashion stylists, hairdressers and models the hair to be on shoots. I only have 10 to 15 minutes to the hero.” get ‘the shot’ from each model, so I have to develop a relationship quickly. When shooting I try to bring the hair in my images to life and make it tell a story. I need the hair to be the hero. Re-touching is an important skill – you need to be sensitive enough to not spoil the intimacy of the image, but still remove distractions that get in the way. My advice? Don’t try to copy others because they will always execute their style better than you can copy it.”

The hairdressing business guru by Janet Maitland, managing director, Janet Maitland Hair Excellence

“As the owner of Janet Maitland Hair Excellence, I am responsible for the livelihoods of my employees – their salaries, mortgages and bills all rely on me running a sound business. I take my business role incredibly seriously, as should any manager, MD or director. I have to focus on the business side of things in order to excel, not just for myself but for my team too.” THE COURSE: Schwarzkopf Professional Build Your Colour Column is designed to help your salon reach its full potential by enhancing your colour business.

The essential skills Alan Woods OBE, chief executive officer at VTCT and iTEC, shares the three essential skills every hairdresser needs to succeed regardless of their chosen path

Excellent communication skills: Hairdressers are often seen as therapists who are willing to lend an ear while a client sits on the chair, but there is a genuine need for formal interpersonal skills. If a hairdresser can listen properly to their clients and communicate their professional recommendations effectively during the consultation process, they are likely to gain repeat business.

Meticulous technical knowledge: Trainee hairdressers need to develop a sound foundation of skills at the beginning of their career. This will enable them to add creativity to their precision services as their repertoire continues to grow. From understanding why and how hair reacts to certain products, to using tools and equipment for the most basic of services, it is skills such as these that ensure employability.

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Robust business judgement: Excellent work ethics, exceptional customer service and being able to upsell retail services, are just some of the key commercial skills that are required. During a VTCT qualification trainee hairdressers will cover how to manage a successful column, market themselves on social media and achieve an independently graded end-point assessment.

EDUCATION The avant garde hairdresser by Shelley Pengilly, owner, Shelley’s

“My first experience of avant garde hairdressing was when I worked as an assistant in a local salon. I was given the opportunity to go to a trade show with the team. I watched my first avant garde stage show and from that moment I felt inspired. Avant garde work is not about pleasing others. It is pure art and an expression of what is in my mind. My avant garde career flourished when I became a milk_shake ambassador. The brand developed and we began doing lots of shows which led to more creative avant garde pieces. The opportunities have magnified now that I am on the brand’s global artistic team and I’ve become milk_shake’s leading avant garde hair artist.” THE COURSES: TIGI Creative Cut & Colour pushes creative work to the next level with exciting, contemporary and progressive looks that clients love. Rush Fusion demonstrates how to make a creative cut and colour work in harmony using a strength and movement philosophy.

“Avant garde work is not about pleasing others. It is pure art and is an expression of what is in my mind.”

The hairdressing marketeer by Nicolle Rimmer, marketing consultant

“As a little girl I wanted to be a hairdresser. I went to a school that focused on university being the starting point of any career, so I ended up doing a marketing degree. I never gave up on hairdressing and 15 years later thanks to hard work and dedication I live, sleep and breathe the hairdressing world as a marketing consultant. I love every moment working with salons, hair artists and brands helping them to build their businesses and raise their profiles. As an industry we need to be committed to educating schools and parents about the opportunities in hairdressing as they are endless. Children should be encouraged to find their true passion and build a career that will embrace this. A successful and happy work-life balance is having a job that you love so much that you never have to work another day.” THE COURSE: Wella Professionals Activate your Digital Business shows you how to boost your business on digital platforms.

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EDUCATION that honestly believes in education, as this will provide the opportunity for personal growth.”

The hairdresser for the homeless by Stewart Roberts, founder Haircuts4Homeless

“After a 40-year career in hairdressing, I launched Haircuts4Homeless. In 2014 I took my scissors to a Salvation Army Centre in Romford where I volunteer and the rest is history. Haircuts4Homeless has 47 “People on the projects across the UK and over 300 volunteers take part. We streets often feel they have completed over 35,000 have no voice and haircuts for the homeless. Anyone who wants a career are invisible. in hairdressing has to love Hairdressers are in a communicating with people. Those living on the streets often perfect position to feel they have no voice and are build their invisible. Hairdressers are great confidence.” listeners and are in a perfect position to engage and build their confidence. We are planning to launch a Haircuts4Homeless Training Academy, where we can teach homeless people hairdressing skills and help them get back into work.” The colour technician and educator by Tracy Hayes, head of technical information, Fudge Professional

THE COURSES: Goldwell Color Trend translates trends into client services. Wella Professionals Master Color Programme creates expert colourists.

The prison barber by Lynndy Rolfe, freelance hairdresser and barber

“I’ve been a hairdresser since I was 16, but I’ve always been interested in psychology and criminology. When I saw a position for a barber to educate at a local prison, I thought it would be perfect. I’m a big believer in second chances – being the prison’s go-to barber gives inmates a sense of fulfilment and they get a qualification at the end of it. We make it feel like they are in a real barbershop and barbering gives them a sense of purpose within the prison.” THE COURSE: Wella Professionals Classic Man provides specialist skills for bringing out the best in your male clients.

The funeral home hair stylist

“In my early days as an assistant, you would always find me in the colour department. I was fascinated with the science and colour combinations and seeing how the most dramatic colour changes would completely transform a client. I’d worked in top London salons and taught for many years at Sassoon, when I was approached by PZ Cussons “Education is key Beauty. They had recently acquired Fudge Professional when it comes to and the opportunity to be technicality. It helps part of a very small team and make the project our own you understand was a great challenge. As head colour placement of technical information at Fudge Professional I am part within a haircut and of the process for formulating the suitability of a colours and building the colour portfolio. Education is key when colour for your client.” it comes to technicality. It helps you understand colour placement within a haircut and the suitability of a colour for your client. My advice for anyone wanting to have a career as an educator is to approach a salon

by Annie Gosling, funeral director

“Part of my role is preparing the deceased for being viewed by friends and family which can include styling, trimming and colouring the hair. It is so rewarding to bring the deceased into a dignified state as this is often the last memory a family will have of their loved one. I always ask for a recent photo to prepare the hair as it was usually worn. We are often asked to colour the hair, touch up the roots, curl or straighten and occasionally trim the hair. I always shampoo and condition the hair, blow-dry it and usually style with a hot brush or tongs. We use products such as gels or mousses and I always finish it with hairspray to set the hair. Most people are elderly when they pass on, so the styles are usually simple and traditional. Some people wish to have their personal hairdresser come in to look after their loved one. If you are interested in a funeral hairdressing career, go and talk to your local funeral home – it’s an industry which is always looking for compassionate and caring people.”

#ChooseHair Are you at the beginning of your hairdressing career? Go to choosehair.co.uk to find out how to kick-start your career with an apprenticeship at some of the industry’s leading salons and brands. It will give you the opportunity to get hands-on experience, gain qualifications and could lead to a degree. 69 / hji.co.uk

DIVE INTO THE WORLD OF COLOUR There has never been a more exciting time to be a colourist. Formulations are better than ever, and the innovative new techniques have transformed the colour landscape. At Wella we have a variety of courses to take your knowledge to the maximum. Competent with colour and feel ready to challenge yourself creatively, check out our Colour Genius course. Over 2 interactive days you will explore the latest trends and uncover the techniques that have added a whole new dimension to hair colour. For colourists who completed the Master Color Expert Programme more than 3 year ago, why not try our MCE Maximiser. On this three day course, you will discover the science behind new cutting edge updates in hair colour, work with the latest products, formulas and techniques. This is the perfect course to recharge your skills and passion for colour and deliver on the current clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sky high demands.

ÂŠMarc Antoni

To find out more, download a copy of the 2019 Education book from education.wella.com or ask your account manager for a copy.

DECADENCE Femininity is defined by opulence and strength

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“I wanted to create a collection of individual looks focused on what I love doing – styling beautiful and feminine hair with an editorial edge. Bold, glossed colours and powerful styling empower a feminine dominance that captures the beauty of opulence and strength.” Cos Sakkas

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Hair: Cos Sakkas at Toni & Guy Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Sara Dunn Photography: Jack Eames

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#theOriginal

sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

The Havana, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk

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The hair is treated as a fabric to create endless styles

VIBRANCY

â&#x20AC;&#x153;This collection encapsulates my signature style. It is a mix of contrasting textures, long and short hair and a vibrant background of shapes and colours to complement the hair and clothes and make the images pop. I love working on all types of hair and treat it as a fabric on which we can create endless looks.â&#x20AC;? Jamie Stevens 80 / hji.co.uk

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Hair: Jamie Stevens at Jamie Stevens Hair Make-up: Jess Mowbray and Doey Drummond Styling: Robert Morrison Photography: Jens Wikholm

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INFINITY Trend-led looks that create a timeless statement

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;My aim for this collection was to create a trend. I wanted Inf inity to be driven by strong editorial hair based on my shows and session shoots throughout the year. I shot the collection on location in Melbourne, Australia. It is a real statement as I believe British hairdressing should always be moving forwards.â&#x20AC;? Errol Douglas MBE

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Hair: Errol Douglas MBE at Errol Douglas London Make-up: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Melissa Nixon Photography: Andrew O’Toole

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Starting at your client’s eye level, curl hair away from the face using the Cloud Nine Curling Wand. Brush out the waves using the Luxury Texture Comb to create a natural look.

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FASHION

Futurism From Star Trek to Blade Runner this collection is based on cult sci-fi and superheroes

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FASHION

See our iPad edition for inspiring extras

Hair colour: Warren Boodaghians with TIGI Copyright Colour Hair styling: Gen Itoh with Bed Head Make-up: Katie Moore Styling: Jiv D Photography: Alex Barron-Hough

“My collection is based on futurism and science f iction superheroes. I researched fashion, movies and popular culture through the past decades for my inspiration.” Warren Boodaghians, TIGI’s global technical academy director

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FASHION

â&#x20AC;&#x153;This collection of highly textured looks focuses on manipulating the natural beauty and feel of the hair to give a raw and beautiful f inish. Each image is dark, seductive and mysterious. Hair is less polished than previous seasons and full of texture, which is a key trend for 2019.â&#x20AC;? Tracey Devine Smith

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24-25 February 2019 | ExCeL London

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“The Story continues in AW18 with a nod towards winter cool styling. The hair textures were inspired by Richard Ashcroft and Karen Elson and incorporate shades of leaves, forests and spice for a classic take on gender-f ree styling.” Leonardo Rizzo, Sanrizz international creative director for Alter Ego Italy

See our iPad edition for inspiring extras

Hair: Leonardo Rizzo for Alter Ego Italy Colour: Sharon Cox for Alter Ego Italy, Stefania Fraccaro and the Akademia artistic team Make-up: Silvia dell’Orto and Daniela Galeazzi Styling: Emanuela Mari Photography: Andrew O’Toole

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FASHION

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FASHION

“This collection was inspired by the rising star of the zodiac, which is said to determine the individual traits of a person when life begins.” ClubStar Art Team 2018

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T HE HOT LIST

Bespoke backwash

Smooth mover

United we stand

Goldwell Dualsenses Intensive Conditioning Serums are seven targeted and bespoke treatments. The range includes Color, Rich Repair and Curly Twist.

milk_shake Smoothies are ammonia-free tone on tone conditioning colouring creams. The on-trend pastel shades include Icy Blue and Pink Grapefruit.

Unite has landed on UK shores. The range, which is found backstage at fashion week and in global salons, will be stocked exclusively in the UK by Salon Success.

Define and refine

Shine on

Party hair

When La Biosthetique Light Defining Cream is sparingly applied to ends, it tames, adds shine and moisturises locks. It can also be used to refresh updos. RRP £15

The Glamtech EVO Iridescent Limited Edition 5.5” Scissor features a high shine finish. The smooth cut reduces strain, increases comfort and gives a crisp finish.

L’Oréal Professionnel Flash Hair Pro Make-Up has introduced three new shades – Silver is Coming, Golden Bubbles and Glow Big or Glow Home which glows under UV light.

Big hair, do care

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Daily TLC

If clients want voluminous hair suggest TIGI Copyright Volume Lift Styling Spray. It adds lift to roots and has shape-supporting polymers for long lasting styles. RRP £18

Kinky Muk Curl Leave-in Moisturiser is a non-greasy cream to give thirsty curls moisture and eliminate frizz. It can also be used with a curl amplifier. RRP £11.75

evo Happy Campers Wearable Treatment has transformed into a lightweight spray that moisturises, protects, reduces drying time and adds texture to hair. £21

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T HE HOT LIST

Tea time

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The new edition to the Paul Mitchell Tea Tree range, Special Color Shampoo and Conditioner helps to wash away impurities, while rooibos tea botanicals protect colour from fading.

Aveda Speed of Light Blow Dry Accelerator aims to reduce drying time by half. The lightweight formula detangles and protects hair from breakage caused by brushing and blow-drying. RRP £21

Alter Ego EgoBond 3-Step System infuses hair with hydration, improves resistance and enhances shine using three treatments. Individual price: £24.95 and 3-Step System price: £99.95

New hues

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Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode focuses on hair health. It features 117 shades across seven colour categories, including special blondes, pure naturals, rich naturals and deep browns.

Brooklyn-based brand Amika is now available in the UK exclusively from Alan Howard. The products are powered by nourishing sea buckthorn berry and sit in vibrant patterned packaging.

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INTERIORS

Earning Zebra Stripes With zebra ornaments and cacti on the shelves, Hair by JFK in South Clerk Street, Edinburgh isn’t your average salon

air by JFK in Edinburgh’s South Clerk Street has been something of a ‘chameleon’ over the years. Originally starting life as a hair salon, it was turned into a hair and make-up photographic studio by owner Faruk Mohammed for creative work. This summer, thanks to an increase in clients and staff at its sister salon, Bruntsfield, it was changed back into a salon. The redesign brought clean and crisp white walls with pops of green paint, modern art sculptures, chrome fittings and of course, the zebra

ornaments that Hair by JFK has become synonymous with. “I wanted to incorporate zebras into the salon because they represent our brand’s uniqueness and individuality,” Faruk explains. The zebra ornaments on display in the salon feature bespoke avant garde wigs. As well as being quirky, the wigs illustrate the salon’s expertise in avant garde work. “The plants in the salon are also a passion of mine,” adds Faruk. “I loved the idea of them growing as the business grows.” From the outside, it’s obvious the salon is a place where creativity can grow too. The window contains a space available to any artist who wants to use it. Currently housing 111 / hji.co.uk

INTERIORS

The facts Name: Hair by JFK Address: South Clerk Street, Edinburgh Owner: Faruk Mohammed Staff: 8 Budget: £35,000-£40,000 Faruk’s top tips Double your budget Set a budget and double it because renovations always cost more than you think. Don’t cut corners as it will cost you more in the long run.

a sculpture by a local artist, the window is a talking point in the neighbourhood. The UV lighting also catches the eye of those walking or driving past the salon. Lighting was something that was important to Faruk. “When a salon uses cool tones, blonde hair can look really white and it can make a client’s skin look drained,” Faruk says. “I wanted to bring warm tones into the salon to create a natural light that would make my clients look and feel healthy.” Faruk made sure the overhead lighting was custom made. The lights are fitted with LED panels featuring cool and warm tones. Moving downwards, the floor is an industrial grey coloured lino. Faruk chose the lino because it was hard-wearing, which is crucial for his dog-friendly salon.

Consider your signage Invest time and money on your salon’s exterior and window display – you want it to look its very best. Location, location, location The South Clerk Street salon is near student accommodation which is great for footfall, as long as you get your marketing right. Two-legged and four-legged guests have a choice of two waiting areas, both with TVs where clients can watch shows and listen to music channels. The area upstairs has a coffee area for guests to enjoy a beverage from the coffee bar. This relaxed ‘make yourself at home’ vibe shows that Hair by JFK South Clerk Street is the place to get a first-class service in quirky surroundings. 112 / hji.co.uk

CAREERS What was your route into hair? I took a summer job in a salon before starting college. It wasn’t something I’d considered before, but I enjoyed it. I decided to do an apprenticeship and during that time I went to Salon International, which changed me. I was in the crowd and someone asked me to be a model for Trevor Sorbie. I spent the day with Trevor’s team learning how to walk, they dressed me in Vivienne Westwood and cut my hair off. I saw a whole different side to hairdressing and I knew instantly that I wanted to move to London once I finished my apprenticeship. Later on I went to Paris to study French beauty and learn French. I started working for magazines and became part of an international art team which was incredible as I was doing shows to global audiences of 6,000 people. When I came back from France someone recommended me to Guido Palau who was looking for new assistants. I’d learned so many classic techniques during my time in France, but I had no idea how important they would be for my career. Guido asked to meet me and I joined his team, which wouldn’t have happened if I hadn’t gone to France. I worked with him for 10 years and became a brand ambassador which involved travelling the world educating and putting on shows.

Can you tell us about your present roles?

Zoe Irwin

The Multi-Tasker

I’m Taylor Taylor’s creative colour director at Liberty. I’m also one of the founder team members of Blow Ltd, an ambassador for ghd, an ambassador for the Manta brush, a trends forecaster and Wella’s UK consumer colour trends expert. I went back to school and studied at Central St Martins and also in Milan. I have a tutor from trend forecasting company WGSN and I’ve been working on different brands as a freelance trends forecaster. I travel the world shooting hair and I believe I have a responsibility as an ambassador to know what trends are developing globally.

Zoe Irwin has curated her perfect career as a Wella trends expert, ghd brand ambassador, colourist and stylist by taking chances, not being afraid to approach the right people and forever learning

What are the pros and cons of your role? The diversity of my role is wonderful. Everything I do is so different, and I love the longevity of my work. Working with brands for years and being involved in product development really excites me.

How did you become a brand ambassador? ghd asked to meet me when Vogue called me the ‘blow-dry queen’. The brand was looking to add someone who had knowledge in styling and I had designed the big blow-dry menu at Headmasters. Wella created the trends expert role in the UK and it was the perfect match. I’m also a colourist which people forget, and I wanted a colour role. I’d started doing the Wella Master Colour Programme and I fell in love with the colour and the performance of the brand.

I have huge amounts of colour; I’m a session stylist so I have huge amounts of kit – I have to be so many things to so many people and switch from one task to another quickly and efficiently. I couldn’t do any of this without my husband who works with me – he organises everything at home and is a huge support.

What are your tips for aspiring brand ambassadors? I‘ve always studied and still do. I spend 10% of my annual earnings on my education and I’m about to go to Paris for a balayage course. You don’t have to take the obvious career path – go around the outside if you must to get to where you want to be. You should have 100% belief. Start living the life you want to live – if you want to be an ambassador, start shooting that way and give quotes to magazines. If you live life as your future self, you will then become that person. Finally, I always approach people – don’t sit back and wait for them to approach you.

What challenges have you faced in your career?

What’s next for your career?

Time is my biggest challenge as everything always comes at once. If you look at each opportunity individually, they are incredible, but the hairdressing calendar is all packed into six months. I overcome this by being hugely organised. I’m a colourist so

I’ve set up a new business consultancy. I realised there’s a gap in the market for a PR and creative director to come together. I’m helping salons to makeover their businesses from the salon design to the menus. I’m looking forward to developing my role with Wella and continuing to be an ambassador for ghd.

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RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team

Experienced Stylist Required for our Central London Salon

Fantastic Experienced Stylist Role Available at Gemini Hair and Beauty

Job Description-If you are looking for a Self Employed / Rent a Chair position, we invite you to read and respond to our advertisemen. Great4Hair is a boutique salon situated in the heart of Portman Village in Seymour Place, London W1. We are looking for an experienced, talented stylist, accomplished in cutting, colouring and styling to join our professional, friendly team. The suitable candidate should be a friendly individual with a client base and a high standard of customer service.

Location: UK London Date Posted: 01-11-2018 Hair, Hair Stylist and Senior Stylist Salary Band: Negotiable Contract Type: Permanent / Full Time

Contact Mike on 0207-569-7170

About us: We are an independent salon which has been established for 17 years located within Balham. To add to this, we have a fantastic growing clientele and always strive to deliver exceptional results for our customers. Job role: Currently we are on the lookout for experienced stylists in all aspects of colouring and cutting. The ideal candidate must be reliable, punctual, versatile and offer great levels of service to our clients. If you are genuinely interested in this role, please email your CV to jointheclubuw@gmail.com or call Sara on 07956-380-677

Self Employed Senior Stylists & Senior Colour Technicians Needed HK London Chelsea About us Renowned celebrity and award-winning hairdresser, Hakan Köse has joined forces with London’s leading hairdresser Mehmet Bozdal to open a new hair salon. Based in the King’s Road in Chelsea, London, the hairdressing salon is being touted as the go-to destination for inspirational hairdressing. Combining Hakan and Mehmet’s envious client list from London, Istanbul and around the globe, customers experience cutting edge style and progressive creativity. The new salon is an oasis of calm from the buzzy King’s Road with a two-level interior. A visit to the new HK London will enable customers to experience the team’s individual specialities. Job role We currently have a great opportunity for self employed Senior Stylists & Senior Colour Technicians to work for our busy salon on King’s Road, Chelsea. The basic requirements for this vacancy includes previous experience within a busy salon. The ideal candidate must have their own customer base in the area and an NVQ level 2 in Hairdressing is essential.

@HJI_Jobs

If you are interested in this role, please send your CV to ayse.ford@hklondon.co.uk or call 020 3055 0055

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hji.co.uk/jobs

RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376

Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

Ena Salon are looking to build their team in central London. Would you like to start or further your career in one of London’s largest established salons with an international education company? We are looking for Assistants, Stylists and Colour Technicians. — Email us directly on samuel@enasalon.com

Location: St.Ives, Cambridgeshire

HAIR STYLIST AND SENIOR STYLIST Salary Band: Negotiable Contract Type: Permanent / Full Time

Broaden your horizons living a life in the sun...

MAYFAIRONMAIN

Gibraltar’s luxury hair salon experience where quality and service matter. Mayfair On Main based in the sunny Mediterranean climate of Gibraltar, are looking to expand our team to cope with client demand. Are you a motivated team player, passionate about hair, committed to providing high quality service with City and Guilds Level 2 hairdressing qualifications and a minimum of two years experience? Now recruiting stylists of all levels. Our goal is simple, to revolutionise the hair industry in Gibraltar. If you share the same passion for high quality client service we will be committed to your ongoing education and in-salon career development. Email your CV and covering letter to info@mayfaironmain.gi or call us on 00350 20075913 using the reference HJ recruitment

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Description: Ready for that career change with an eye on a super amazing future! Then join a well-established family-based salon that is looking for New talented individuals as well as passionate stylists who want to be involved in moulding their own future as well as contributing to the growth of the Genesis Hair Company Brand. We want to hear from qualified talented stylist that have a real passion for there craft and really want to develop as well as being able to evolve into the best that they can become. As the Wella, colour destination point in our area we look to deliver the best that colour MCEs can provide to our guests supported by the best retail brands with in the industry. As we have a complete floor dedicated to the passion of hair colour services we also offer suitable team members the best training in our industry – The Wella MCE colour degree course. Training is an integral part of our brand values and team development so be tailor a bespoke program to not only help you evolve as a individual but also to motivate as well as inspire you in becoming the face of our brand. Working for us you will also receive: Competitive salary + uncapped commission potential up to 50%. Free hair services as well as amazing discounts on retail/electrical products. Refer a friend to join our team up to £500 bonus. A fun filled social calendar of events like, summer ball, theatre nights out, fab meals out as well as corporate evening with our amazing brands. Full support in entering competitions throughout the industry. Joining the Genesis team is like winning the golden ticket to success as that is what we strive as a family to achieve for our team. So why not send your CV to aaron_genesis_world@yahoo.co.uk or don’t be shy and give us a call on 01480 464259 Genesis Hair Company 2 Bridge Street, St.Ives, Cambridge, PE27 5EG Tel: 01480 464259

CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 Email: nicola.c@hji.co.uk

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

Employers Take control of your apprenticeships

PROPERTY

Camberley / Wokingham. Well Estab Salon. Lease. £3,000wk. Five Days. £25,000 East Berks Town Centre. Good Class Hair Salon. Quality Fitted. Seat 15+. Air-conditioned. Good lease @ £24,000p.a. Staff run. Has been £5,250wk. £42,500 Farnborough, Hants. Very Smart Hair / Beauty. Busy location. Parade. Lease. Well fitted throughout. £2,500wk. Real potential for younger owner. Vendor retiring. £24,950 - Offers Invited Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Ruislip, Middx - Vacant Salon. Lease. Expensively fitted. Smart shop front. Would be ideal for a Barber. £15,000 South Herts - M25 belt area. Spacious Salon. Town Centre. New Lease. £4,500wk. Staff run. Retirement Sale Good potential for working owner. £34,995 (Freehold available) West Berks - few miles Newbury. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £2,750wk. £22,500 Wokingham, Berks. Salon Premises. Town Centre. Suit Gents Barbers. New Lease @ £20,000p.a. No Premium

Deliver your own training, raise standards, and get paid Training Providers Why not sub-contract with someone that understands you and wants to help you do an amazing job

A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

Phone for a quote www.positiveachievement.co.uk Mobile: 07881 807719 To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA

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INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER Each month HJ is written to inform, educate and inspire you - delivering exclusive fashion collections, trend and industry news, product information, business advice and features on the issues that affect the industry. You will also receive HJ Men four times a year, Winning Collections and the Salon International Event Guide. HJ is available in print and on your mobile/tablet with additional content and interactive videos so you can keep up-to-date, wherever you are.

For further information visit www.hji.co.uk/subscribe/why-subscribe

or call 01371 851 876

116 / hji.co.uk

CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

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INSPIRATION

ROBERT EATON # H a ir In s p o Wellaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technical director Robert Eaton reveals what makes him cry and who he follows religiously on Instagram

Quick-fire round Plain or spicy? Spicy

Which of your hair creations makes you most proud? I recently put a show together for the Wella TrendVision Awards (pictured right), which makes me very proud as a lot of hard work went into it. We had to colour wigs and there were loads of hair extensions as well. We worked on 12 models, so it was a full-on day with months of preparation beforehand. Who is your hair hero? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve admired Trevor Sorbie and Charles Worthington for many years. My all-time hair hero has to be my dad â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Russell Eaton. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been in the industry for 40 years and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really inspired by everything he does. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your all-time favourite hair image? I love the classic Sassoon and Trevor Sorbie work and I love the editorial styling that we see today. If I had to choose one image it would be Sassoonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic work from the early days. Do you have any hobbies? I love cycling and I cycle to work whenever I can. I also try to go on three-hour-long bike rides in my spare time (pictured below). If the salon ZDV RQ Ă&#x20AC;UH what would you save? My scissors but also my HJ British Hairdressing Awards trophies (pictured above)

City pad or country house? Country house Avant garde or editorial looks? Editorial looks Invisibility or ability to fly? Ability to fly

because thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been too many hours of hard work thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gone into winning those awards. If you werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a hairdresser what would you be? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been interested in anything to do with art and design and graphics, so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d probably be a graphic designer. What canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you live without? It has to be my daughter Pearl. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your favourite place? When Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not in the salon, I love being at home with my family. I also love travelling to new places. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your biggest achievement so far? One of my biggest achievements is becoming a dad but also the successes Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had at HJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in the hairdressing industry for 21 years. My career has grown and evolved over that time and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got lots of moments that have made me really proud. 118 / hji.co.uk

Go to hji.co.uk to watch HJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exclusive interview with Robert

When was the last time you cried? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not ashamed to say that I cry sometimes. Watching some of the little things my daughter does makes me really happy and makes me cry. Watching sad films also makes me emotional â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a sensitive guy really. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your idea of the perfect day? My perfect day would involve doing something thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not related to work, whether thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going out for the day with my family or travelling somewhere new. I love doing anything that helps me to relax and unwind. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s number one on your bucket list? I really want to travel and see as many different countries and cultures around the world as possible. What Instagram accounts do you follow religiously? Hairdresserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Journalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Instagram account (@hairdressersjournal). I follow lots of accounts from our industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leaders to the young hairdressers who are just starting out in their careers. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really inspired by the work of the FAME Team (@fameteam2018). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great to be inspired by some of the younger people entering the industry.

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