Hairdressers Journal December 2019 by Hairdressers Journal

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2019

n o t a E t Rober

December 2019

£5|December 2019|hji.co.uk 1 2

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Beauti ul hair with a clean conscience.

FOLLOW THE STORY @FFORHAIR #HAIRFFORGOOD | WWW.FFORHAIR.COM TO STOCK THE RANGE CONTACT SALES@FFORHAIR.COM

CONTENTS

December 2019 News

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round up

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HJ Reports HJ Live Ireland 2019 HJ Reports Goldwell Global Color Zoom

Business

Best in Business The key dates for the British Hairdressing Business Awards 2020

Big Debate Before and after pictures – are you for or against?

Colour Menu Delicious sounding shades and hues are trending

Vivid Colour Commandments What to tell clients who are going vibrant

British Hairdressing Awards 2019

The #BHA19 Winners Here are the winners of HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional

ROBERT EATON

Features

59 Inspiration

Fashion The award-winning British Hairdresser of the Year collection, plus three British nominee collections

Regulars

Membership offer Win the OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation range

Men’s Trends Male grooming news, trends and two exclusive fashion collections 4 / hji.co.uk

The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month

Interiors Take a tour of HARE & BONE in Surrey

Careers Blue Tit manager Chris Merrick went from apprentice to salon owner in three years

Life Through a Lens Errol Douglas shares his all-time favourite creations

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

Managing Director Mark Moloney ] Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

We l c o m e

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

ast month the biggest names in British hairdressing dressed in their finest attire to drink, dine, network and party in the ballroom at Park Lane’s JW Marriott Grosvenor House Hotel. The finalists attended an exclusive drinks reception while eagerly waiting to find out if they would go home with a coveted trophy. HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, is a highlight of the HJ team’s annual calendar and we’d like to say a huge well done to all of the finalists and congratulations to this year’s winners as the competition was extremely fierce! Head straight to page 28 to find out what happened on the night and who won this year’s 18 coveted awards! We’ve also got the exclusive and newly crowned British Hairdresser of the Year collection from Robert Eaton on page 59 and three of this year’s beautiful British nominee collections too. Over the next two issues we will feature all of this year’s stunning British nominee collections exclusively in the magazine. If you’re planning your education schedule for 2020 don’t miss our education and training feature on page 50 and we also have everything you need to know about the latest food inspired colour trends on pages 23 and 24. We know you’re all incredibly busy in the salon over the coming weeks, so we have our annual Season of Giving on hji.co.uk from Monday 9 December. Visit our website for fun content with hints, tips and giveaways that will keep you going until Christmas. Enjoy our last issue of 2019 and we’ll see you in 2020!

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377 Intern Lydia Halsey

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Deputy Sales Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367

Account Manager Thomas Cox thomas@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365

Events and Sales Administrator Melinda Park melinda@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374

Happy Christmas!

Design and Production Sarah Eversfield

On the cover: Hair: Robert Eaton at Russell Eaton Make-up: Lucy Flower Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Richard Miles 5 / hji.co.uk

Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061

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INDUSTRY NEWS Tom Connell is the new Davines hair art director. He will play a leading role in creating photographic collections and training hairstylists, as well as appearing in hair shows across the globe. Tom grew up in the salon owned by his parents who are both hairdressers. He transferred to London to develop his expertise in styling and worked at Trevor Sorbie for the past 10 years and spent four of those years as Trevor Sorbie’s artistic director. Speaking about his creative process Tom said: “I keep a document with me to write down things that catch my attention: A haircut I see on the street, a piece of furniture, a film clip. Once a month, I read it and see a connection between all the elements and I develop all of my ideas from there.”

Alfaparf Names New Directors Yellow by ALFAPARF GROUP, an Italian colour brand which recently launched in the UK, has announced a collaboration with Amy and David Lopez from dlo Hairdressing in Guildford. Amy Lopez, colour expert and technical educator has been named the UK’s technical director for Yellow, and art director David Lopez has been named the UK’s creative director for Yellow.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Davines’s New Art Director

How Will the 2019 General Election Affect You? The outcome of the 2019 general election, which is taking place on Thursday 12 December 2019, could have a significant impact on salons. The National Hair and Beauty Federation chief executive Hilary Hall explains: “Both the Labour Party and the Conservative Party are committed to raising minimum wages and protecting the rights of people working in the gig economy. There are

Save the Date: HJ Live London March 2020

Live London 2020 is returning to ExCeL London in March next year. The exhibition, which takes place alongside Professional Beauty London is moving from February to Sunday 29 March and Monday 30 March. With over 800 brands exhibiting across the two days, Professional Beauty London and HJ Live London gives hair and beauty professionals the chance to stock up on the latest products, be inspired by two live hair stages (HJ Stage and Modern Barber stage) and to network with the industry’s finest – all free of charge. To register for your free HJ Live London 2020 tickets go to hji.co.uk.

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clear differences in the parties and their approach to corporation tax and on Brexit. It’s important that salons take the time to look at party policies because they will affect you and your business in the years to come.” The NHBF has compiled a guide to how each political parties’ current policies could affect your salon business if they win on 12 December. Head to hji.co.uk to see the full guide.

INDUSTRY NEWS The UK’s Lowest Paid Workers

SHUTTERSTOCK

Hairdressers and barbers are in the UK’s top 10 worst paid jobs list for full-time workers, earning an average salary of £17,609 per year, according to new Government figures. The Office for National Statistics (ONS) Annual Survey of Hours and Earnings 2019 report revealed the occupations with the lowest median earnings for full-time employees. Hairdressing jobs made the list at number ten, while beauty therapists came in at number seven earning a median salary of £17,179. Bar staff are the lowest paid on an average salary of £16,055, followed by waiters on £16,286 and kitchen and catering assistants on £16,604.

Saks Annual Conference 2019 Saks UK held its Annual Conference with Saks salon owners at L’Oréal Professionnel’s headquarters in London to discuss the brand’s future plans, brainstorm ideas and listen to feedback from team members. The Saks HQ team, which includes Janet King for marketing, Luke Pluckrose for hair, Katie Gledhill of Saks Beauty Halifax for beauty, and Jezz Ellis for operations, all demonstrated how Saks UK will be supporting salons with a range of new ideas and innovations set to launch in 2020.

NHBF BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 The winners of the NHBF Business Awards 2019 were revealed at the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, London last month. At the start of the evening chief executive Hilary Hall revealed the National Hairdressers’ Federation is rebranding to the National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF). She said now is the time to put hair and beauty under one roof so the association will be known as the National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF). The awards categories were split into

two with the business awards and the photographic image of the year awards. The business award winners included Law Salons for Best Independent Hair Salon and Barbershop – Large and Tina Parsons from Burghley Hair-BeautyAcademy for Outstanding Contribution to the Hair or Beauty Industry. The winners of the photographic image of the year awards included Andrew Smith and Yucel Olmezkaya. Go to hji.co.uk for the full list of 2019 NHBF Business Awards winners.

New Bank Note Alert

new £20 bank note has been announced from the Bank of England. The design will be introduced from 20 February 2020 and the paper £20 notes will be gradually withdrawn. For the first time, the new notes include two windows and a two-colour foil, making them difficult to counterfeit. The £5 and £10 notes which are already in circulation are made from a polymer that protects against water damage. Your clients can continue to use the paper £20 notes in the salon but they will gradually be withdrawn when they are banked. There will be six months’ notice before the paper notes are no longer legal tender and cannot be accepted from clients in the salon.

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Sustainable Phorest Event Salon software company Phorest held its first Conscious Hair & Beauty event to explore the importance of sustainability and wellness within the hair and beauty industry. Independent conservation organisation WWF says the salon industry is one of the largest consumers of both heat and water. A panel of eco-conscious salon owners shared tried and tested initiatives that can be implemented straight away.

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HELLO DUBLIN! HJ Live Ireland took place at the RDS Dublin on 20 to 21 October with a star line-up from Ireland and the UK taking to the stage

S The Crow Street Collective by Darren Lacken demoed rebellious hair styles that referenced punk and rocker fashions and showed that edgy styles can still be soft, fluid and flowing. X House of Colour presented a collection, which was inspired by the idea of giving each model a cut and colour that can be styled one way for work and into a more playful look for evenings and weekends. The team put a spin on classic hairdressing by giving the styles an edgy and editorial feel.

W Suzie McGill, the Rainbow Room International artistic director and UK Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador, flew over from Scotland to present looks from Rainbow Room Internationalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ruby collection. She told the audience punky styles are really relevant at the moment and she used techniques to give her modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hair an on-trend, undone and grungy feel.

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T Frank Hackett put a creative twist on his usual cutting technique by displaying two striking street-style looks.

HJ REPORTS W Menspire Academy, which was led by Glenn McGoldrick, presented a collection with the future of men’s hair in mind. The models wore long male hairstyles that crossed the line between hairdressing and barbering as well as shorter styles that can be created using a graduated cutting technique.

X Sarah Mason and Roisin Hynes focused on looks that would work on the runways of fashion week for their slot on stage. Sarah created a folded back ponytail with a bun and gave it lots of texture. The style was given a razor cut front and she used gel to give it a wet look. Roisin tied knots throughout the hair which gave it a soft look with lots of texture.

W Organic Italian Hairdressing impressed the audience by colouring hair with natural herbs and plants. The founders explained every shade is bespoke. The models were given natural dyed hair extensions featuring colours which ranged from pastel pink and purple to orange and green.

S Rick Roberts was keen to show how the model’s long, curly and gorgeously thick and textured hair could be transformed into a glamorous exaggerated beehive featuring lots of on-trend pearl accessories.

S Niall Colgan presented his signature short haircuts on the stage. He wanted to show the importance of the cut within the salon, especially the short cut. He believes hairdressers should dedicate time to cutting a client’s hair and just like an architect, hairdressers should plan, build and design every haircut.

X The Wildflower Creative Studio team impressed the audience with an entire collection focused around pastel shades and pretty styling with wildflowers providing the finishing touch.

W Chapter Education founders Paddy Corrigan and Warren Flynn shared a mix of contemporary men’s hairdressing, ranging from shoulder length hair to a traditional barbering skin fade. 13 / hji.co.uk

S The Amy Michelle Hairdressing team demoed how to give clients with fine hair completely natural-looking results using hair extensions.

HJ REPORTS

VIENNESE CHARM Vienna was the destination for over 3,000 hairdressers as they gathered for Goldwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Global Zoom 2019 event for two days packed with extraordinary shows, an exciting competition and inspiring artist sessions

ienna was the setting for the last Global Zoom event in its current format as the brand announced exciting developments for 2020 onwards that will see the launch of the Goldwell Global Creative Awards. With changes to the colour awards and the introduction of a new cutting category, further skill-based categories will also be included. Bringing stylists from around the globe together to share inspiration and education, vice president and creative director of Kao Salon Division, John Moroney explained the need to focus on fashion, trend-led and stylised collections that transcend all visual channels and the creation of an annual style statement, that for 2020 is the Couture Collection: INTREPID. The Academy Sessions After the welcome session, attendees

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HJ REPORTS

The Stylist’s Favourite Awards 2019 winners are voted for online by anyone, anywhere in the world, and saw victory in every category for the UK: • Partner category Richard Munslow from TONI&GUY Hemel Hempstead • Creative category Lauren Roma Hanlon from Slunks • New Talent category Courtney Cairns from Headromance The Goldwell Global Color Zoom winners as voted by Goldwell’s official judging panel were: • New Talent category J Lim, Singapore • Creative category Irakli Sardalishvili, Russia • Partner category Yuujin Ho, Singapore The Artist Sessions The artist sessions gave Goldwell’s global artists the opportunity to share their craft with delegates. HARE & BONE’s Sam Burnett and Jamie Benny presented the world premiere of their latest collection – Tainted Quartz, while M&P presented their new Reversible collection, which was inspired by the work of Violet Chachki and her fall collection. Finally, Mario Krankl, Goldwell global master presented his Salon Fixer concept with new styling techniques designed especially for working stylists.

were invited to the academy sessions and were given the opportunity to experiment with the new Elumen Play range and receive insights on trends for Color & Style. The Goldwell Master Stylist Team presented new creative shapes and colour concepts to guests based on the Master Style Program principles.

The Farewell Party The farewell party was a masquerade ball in the stunning Hofburg Palace situated in the heart of Vienna, and was a fitting finale for an inspirational Global Zoom event. John said: “This year we had two days full of creativity, inspiration and great artist sessions. Our three new gold winners have shown outstanding hairdressing skills and we are looking forward to next year. In 2020 we will inspire our stylists with a new event, a new challenge and a new Goldwell Couture Collection in a new city. We are excited to invite our stylists to the all-new Kao Salon Global Experience in Amsterdam.”

The Global Winners The new Goldwell Couture Collection 2020: INTREPID was the highlight of this year’s Gala Show combining couture inspiration, an editorial edge and commercial cool. The collection is fearless, bold and daring with geometric shapes and gender-neutral colours that represent an annual trend story of hair, colour and style. The waiting was then over for the competitors who had travelled from all corners of the globe to compete in the Color Zoom Challenge. 15 / hji.co.uk

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BUSINESS

ARE YOU THE BEST IN THE

The British Hairdressing Business Awards has a new awards date and venue for 2020 so if you or your salon business is making waves in the industry – now is the time to enter!

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY:

he 2020 British Hairdressing Business Awards is now open for entries and there is a category for everyone ranging from Educator and Manager of the Year to Best New Male Grooming Salon/Barbershop and Independent Salon – Business Newcomer. The awards will take place on Monday 29 June 2020 at the London Hilton on Park Lane with entries closing on Friday 3 April 2020! WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW: • You can enter online at bhba.evessiocloud.com. • You can start your online application and go back to it later. • You can submit videos to go alongside your entry. Check the official entry criteria as it is compulsory to submit a video for some categories.

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Entries Open: Friday 6 December 2019 Entries Close: Friday 3 April 2020 New Awards Date: Monday 29 June 2020 New Venue: London Hilton on Park Lane

BUSINESS

The Debate

Should you take client before and after pictures? Yes

“Before and aftershots are so important for educating others.”

“I’m fed up of seeing the back of someone’s head on Instagram.”

“I love taking before and after pictures. I think this is the clearest way to show a client how their colour journey is developing. I often use the pictures in consultations as it helps to give realistic expectations of what can be achieved in a single appointment. My clients absolutely love having before and after pictures taken. It shows them I really care about them and their hair. I will only do what my guests feel comfortable with so that normally means I only shoot the back of their head. They are also great to use on social media. However it’s important to avoid being negative about the ‘before’ picture. It should not be about shaming a client but instead celebrating their new hair. I also like to show before and after photos in my portfolio and I like to mix it in with different content. Before and after shots are important for educating others as I often get asked about the techniques and colour combinations I use. I always try to teach stylists how to use before and after imagery to their advantage. Many skills including colouring, cutting and styling have created the finished look. It’s really important to get the right lighting and positioning to not only show off these skills, but also to make the client feel great about themselves and to get a winning social media shot. It’s not part of our social media strategy per se, but Headmasters is all about celebrating beautiful hair and what better way to do that than by showing gorgeous images?”

Gareth Williams, colour lead and creative ambassador at Headmasters

“When you’ve got a busy salon taking before and after shots isn’t always the first thing that comes to mind. At Anne Veck we strive to have a seamless customer journey. If we started to factor in time for photos within the appointment it would detract from the service and care our clients are paying for. We also don’t want to inconvenience the client and make them feel self-conscious. If we’ve done an impressive colour transformation that’s the only time we’ll log our work with a photograph – and even then, it’s only for our reference. Lovely shots require great lighting, an eye for composition and, crucially this all takes extra time. Badly photographed hairdressing work doesn’t do a business any favours. Salon owners need to train their staff on how to take great looking photos. Social media is the shop window of your salon and if there are poor quality images going up people will automatically make judgements about the quality of the hairdressing. Personally I’m fed up with seeing the back of someone’s head on Instagram. I prefer to post step-by-step videos so people can see the full process ending with the finished result. Our salon Instagram page showcases a much wider overview of what we do – including stage shows, team collections and wider industry collaborations. I think this gives people confidence that our business is healthy and respected. Plus, we produce fantastic hair work every day and have real life ‘posts’ walking out of the salon all the time.”

Anne Veck, salon owner at Anne Veck Hair

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SHUTTERSTOCK

Two industry figures share their opinions on photographing a client’s hair in the salon

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Clients are now requesting hair colours that look good enough to eat and drink

he days when clients asked for their hair to be coloured blonde, brunette or red are but a distant memory. Whether it’s a mocha balayage or a mushroom hue, hair colour trends have taken a delicious turn. To help you brush up on this season’s tasty looks, we’ve asked the experts to pick their top food and drinks-inspired shades that you and your clients won’t be able to resist.

Mocha Balayage “Mirroring the subtle infusion of coffee and cocoa, this delicious new season colour effortlessly weaves a rich brown base with balayage-painted caramel tones. 1 Think of it as milky coffee and chocolate swirling, as the peachy-toned highlights catch the sun and give the hair movement. When worn with gentle waves, the colour adds dimension so that all hair types look fuller. To ensure the caramel retains its brightness use products such as Revlon Professional Pro You Color Shampoo or a silver shampoo to minimise brassiness.” Anne Veck, Anne Veck salon owner and Revlon Professional ambassador Apple Cider “Apple cider is best suited to paler complexions. This colour is perfect for introducing natural redheads to a lighter shade and for clients with cooler undertones 2 as it creates an interesting clash of warm and cool tones. An apple cider hair colour sits somewhere between a rosy Pink Lady apple and an ‘orangey’ autumnal Braeburn. It’s a soft shade of copper blonde with golden and pink accents. This

colour works great as a punchy global colour or as an interesting tonal wash to refresh a balayage.” Issie Churcher, colour director at Brooks & Brooks, London Mushroom Blonde “This smoky shade of blonde features a dusky grey hue added to a natural or lifted base. A popular method of creating mushroom is with a simple balayage, foilage or 3 foils. Don’t panic about achieving the whiter shades of pale that darker, warmer or previously coloured hair just can’t achieve. Use the Natural Ash Series from the OSMO IKON range to tone starting with the deeper 7.01 (or you have the choice of mixing with darker options) at the roots then blending it to 8.01 or 9.01 on the mid lengths and ends with the Tone on Tone Enhancer in the OSMO IKON range.” Adele Clarke, Spectrum Hair salon owner and OSMO IKON brand ambassador Smoked Marshmallow “This shade will appeal to your ‘forever cool’ clients. They can feel like they are having a seasonal update whilst remaining cool. The key to creating smoked 4 marshmallow is a clean canvas. A level 10 (palest yellow) ensures any smoky or ash tones are going to be prominent and visual. You should also think about adding a gramme of black or dark brown to clean blonde formulas to create the smoked effect. Be brave, think of what happens when you drop a dot of black paint into a pot of white.” Kerrie O’Reilly, TIGI European technical creative director 23 / hji.co.uk

Toasted Coconut “Toasted coconut hair features a deepened root that graduates into blonde. It’s a more dramatic take on bronde and offers the client depth around the face with the 6 added benefit of brighter ends. Use babylights to break up the base colour and paint heavier balayage to define graduation from dark to light on the ends. Finish with a root smudge (if the client hasn’t got a lot of grey hairs). If they are looking for grey coverage, start the process with a glossing/tint on the roots and mid-section. Once all the colour is rinsed personalise the blonde pieces with your chosen glaze – I would opt for a creamy blonde to reference the coconut hue.” Vas Mikelli, executive stylist at Sinead Kelly London for L’Oréal Professionnel 24 / hji.co.uk

Cranberry Sauce “Cranberry is more popular in winter and I love this dark red and maroon hue. My version is a violet red. It features a touch of blue and leans towards magenta. Using the 10 vivid colours from the Goldwell Elumen Play range, I use two parts violet and one part red. I mix it, take a look and add a drop of blue or pink depending on the outcome. To create this shade I use 20g violet, 10g red and 1g blue. You might need another drop of blue but not too much or try using pink if you want more of a reddish tone. Cranberry is a great twist on a dark red for winter.” Neil Barton, Neil Barton Hairdressing salon owner and Goldwell UK guest artist

9. TRACEY DEVINE-SMITH FOR ASP 8. @WELLAHAIRUK @HAIRBYKIESLER 7. @WELLAHAIRUK @THESTUDIOIE

Chilli Chocolate “A rich and deep chocolate with a hint of red, chilli chocolate is a beautiful wintery tone that suits a multitude of clients. It works especially well on a pale 9 skin-tone as it really enhances a yellow-toned complexion. You are trying to get the same colour as a rich black forest gâteaux so the hair should look super shiny and glossy. This shade is a great twist on chocolate without it being too dramatic so it is ideal for clients who are afraid of a bold look. It’s a classic colour that will never date, which makes it perfect for clients of all ages.” Tracey Devine-Smith, ASP global ambassador

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Sushi Salmon “To get a true sushi salmon tone start with a light blonde base. Don’t worry about the base being super cool as you can use any warm tones within the hair. A mix 5 of apricot and strawberry from the Schwarzkopf Professional Blondme range will give a long-lasting result, however the mixing ratio will depend on the client and their base colour. Using Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Worx is another option. Although the shades are bright, they can be mixed with white to get a fantastic result. Coral is a great starting point for creating the sushi salmon shade, then add small amounts of white, red and yellow depending on the desired result. Top tip – brush the colour onto a white towel to see the true shade before applying it to the hair.” Michael Young, Hooker & Young and Schwarzkopf Professional international ambassador

Ginger Peach “For a long time, there’s been a client focus on ashy and cool tone shades. We are now seeing a warm resurgence with ginger peach leading the charge. The blend of 8 copper and gold is complementary to almost every skin tone. As a colourist you can play with intensities and flirt between permanent and semi applications. You can play with strong intense coverage and light pastel tints. Blondes will find this shade effortless as the colour carries easily onto their light natural base, whereas brunettes can only achieve the same look via a pre-lightening session. Peachy tones work beautifully as an ombre, melting the colour through the hair for a visual blend that finishes in deliciously peachy ends.” Andrew Trott-Barn, Advanced Retail Solutions art director

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Caramel Drizzle “Caramel drizzle is perfect for this time of year as we are looking at ways to introduce warmth into our client’s hair. It’s such a versatile colour, as it comes in different 7 variants from deep and rich to lighter and more delicate. I’m inspired by flowing liquid-like caramel as you can see so many different colours within it. I always find that the more you look the more you see! Caramel drizzle can be adapted to suit a lot of skin tones and it’s good for both dark and light bases. I love using it on pale washed-out colour that needs a refresh or even on warm reds to bring out different tones. When working with these shades I love to visually blend them together – the technique I’m working with a lot at the moment is blending the colour with my fingers to give a really natural end result.” Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals technical director, UK and Ireland

10. @GOLDWELLUK @POPPYTREMAINHAIRDRESSING

COLOUR

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The new OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation range can take your blonde services to new heights. OSMO global educator Lesley Stitt tells us more

BLONDE ELEVATION What sets Blonde Elevation apart from its competitors? Lesley: The Blonde Elevation range can create a bespoke blonde colour service for your clients based on their individual hair needs. What are the pros of the formula? Lesley: The key benefit is saving time. We know as colourists that during a consultation we may need to manage expectations, but with Blonde Elevation the colourist has the tools to create a quick solution and get excellent results. What ingredients help to nourish hair? Lesley: The Bond Builder within the Blonde Elevation Premium Violet Lightening Powder has a plex technology that doesn’t compromise the disulphide bonds and condition of the hair. The Bond Builder helps to maintain the integrity of the hair and improve the condition, preventing breakage that is often common with the lightening process. How does Blonde Elevation counteract brassy tones? Lesley: We have developed four neutralising solutions to counteract all blonding lifting techniques. Depending on the level of your client’s hair and its underlying tone such as red, yellow or orange, you select the best Colour Additive to counteract it. For customers with underlying

red tones, the Colour Additive in Green can be used. If a client has orange undertones, opt for the Colour Additive in Blue, for yellow and brassy tones the Colour Additive in Violet is the best option. Colour Additive Red is your standout tone and allows you to experiment with blondes whether it’s colour correcting green/lime tones or creating a new tone. The additives are vegan-friendly and contain a concentrated pure pigment. What looks can you create? Lesley: Platinum blondes, multi-tonal blondes, lightening darker tones, Blonde Elevation is perfect for all blonde shades. The Freehand Clay Additive with kaolin clay has been formulated to enable the hair to remain encapsulated and wet throughout the lifting process so it’s ideal for balayage and for use with foils and freehand open-air techniques. How will Blonde Elevation change the blonde service in your salon? Lesley: The bespoke nature of the service is a game-changer. It will ensure your blonde clients will return to you for your blonde expert advice and techniques. 25 / hji.co.uk

THE PRODUCTS The OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation range includes: • Premium Violet Bleach 9+ With Bond Builder (500g) £16.95 • Freehand Clay Additive (200g) infused with kaolin clay £10.95 • 4 x Colour Additives that help neutralise and counteract unwanted underlying tones (50ml – Blue, Violet, Green and Red) £7.95 each or can be bought as a Colour Additive Kit (4 x 50ml) £19.99 To request OSMO for your salon business, contact your local wholesalers or visit osmo.uk.com

COLOUR

The Vivid Colour s t n e m d n a Comm

Thou shalt be brutally honest

“We email all of our vivid colour clients in advance to warn them that they will need to be prepared to be in the salon all day and we even suggest bringing a packed lunch! When your client asks: ‘When will this start fading?’ I look them straight in the eye and reply with confidence: ‘Straightaway’. Never give a client a timeframe or they will hold you to that exact number of washes. The best thing to do is to give them the option to purchase and top up their colour at home so that they are in control of the fade.” Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon owner and Crazy Color ambassador

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

More clients are moving over to the bright side, but there are a few vivid colour rules you will need to live by if you want to give your clients vibrant and long lasting results

2 3 4 Thou shalt share the virtues of homecare

Thou shalt communicate the lightening process

Thou shalt encourage clients to stay pro

“During a vivid colour consultation I’ll take clients through the entire process and discuss their role in maintaining their new shade. I always stress that home maintenance is imperative. I recommend no more than two washes per week in cold or cool water with Olaplex shampoo and conditioner. Not only does it repair the hair but the shampoo is sulphatefree which will help to prolong the colour. I also recommend weekly home treatments and the use of Olaplex 6 and 7 for styling and heat protection.” Steve Austin, Manic Panic educator

“Many clients do not realise that black hair cannot be dyed pastel pink. As a vibrant specialist I need to ensure my client fully understands the process and the commitment. I explain to my customers that if they want to have vivid colour I will need to dye their hair platinum blonde first and it might take one session or it might take six months of regular lightening sessions. This conversation gives you the opportunity to gauge your client’s commitment to the process and advise against it if they are not willing to be in it from start to finish.” Heffy Wheeler, HX Hair owner and OSMO brand ambassador

“Encourage clients to visit a professional regularly if they are going vivid. Bright colours had a bad reputation in the past because people didn’t realise the complexity of creating a perfect canvas for bright shades to sit on. Professionals are the only ones who can achieve vivid shades but if a client is concerned about cost, maybe you could offer hair model appointments where you can try out a new technique or colour combination? This keeps them visiting a professional and means you can try out new techniques.” Heather Mackenzie, Riot Squad member and Pulp Riot educator

26 / hji.co.uk

MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities. Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win an OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation Kit worth £63.99 he OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation range Tblonde will give you the tools to create a bespoke colour service with excellent

Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.

results. The range includes the Blonde Elevation Freehand Clay Additive to keep hair encapsulated and wet throughout the lifting process. Other products include the Premium Violet Lightening Powder 9+ with Bond Builder, the Colour Additive Starter Kit and Colour Additives in Blue, Green, Red and Violet to help neutralise unwanted underlying tones.

Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY

Five new HJ members will have the chance to win the kit worth £63.99, containing: • OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation Premium Violet Bleach 9+ With Bond Builder • OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation Freehand Clay Additive • OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation Colour Additive – Red, Green, Blue and Violet • OSMO IKON Cream Developer 5 Vol

Membership rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

For more information go to osmo.uk.com PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

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BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65613 December 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DE. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

27 / hji.co.uk

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MIDLANDS HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR James Earnshaw Bad Apple Hair

“I want to say a huge thank you as after seven years of trying I’ve finally won! I’d like to say thank you to Steph and Gavin at Bad Apple Hair and all of my team for all of your support.” 29 / hji.co.uk

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NORTH WESTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Jon Wilsdon TONI&GUY Deansgate

“Thank you so much to Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck for the opportunity and Cos Sakkas for mentoring me – it means the world to me!” 30 / hji.co.uk

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NORTHERN IRELAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Sharon Malcolm Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing

“I’d like to thank Jayne and her fantastic team, Julian Crane and everyone at Schwarzkopf Professional as well as my team, my mum and brother Rob. My philosophy is that we do not lose – we learn.” 31 / hji.co.uk

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SCOTTISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Jason Hall Jason Hall Hairdressing

“I’m a little bit speechless for the first time ever but I want to say a big thank you to all of my amazing team.”

32 / hji.co.uk

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NORTH EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Alexander Turnbull Alexander Hair and Beauty

“I feel shaky as I wasn’t expecting this. I want to thank my Revlon Professional family, my work family and my own family. I lost my mum last year so this one’s for her!” 33 / hji.co.uk

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SOUTHERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Andrew Smith Andrew Smith Salons

“Thank you so much to Schwarzkopf Professional and HJ as I’ve always dreamed of being here and picking this up. Thank you to milk_shake for giving us lots of opportunities, my team and my partner Dan." 34 / hji.co.uk

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WALES & SOUTH WEST HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Martin Crean Mode

“First of all, I want to thank Jayne because you do so much for this industry. I want to thank my photographer, my amazing team, my family, Goldwell family and my new husband.” 35 / hji.co.uk

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EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Nathan Jasztal & Zoe Jasztal Silhouette Du Barry

“We’re absolutely blown away as it’s the first time we’ve entered together – thanks so much!”

36 / hji.co.uk

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LONDON HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Andy Heasman RUSH

“Firstly, I have to thank my team, my photographer, stylists, make-up artists and my heart and soul – Tina Farey! Thank you Stell and Andy for believing in me once again.” 37 / hji.co.uk

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AVANT GARDE HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Sophie Springett & Hayley Bishop TONI&GUY North Audley Street

"Avant garde is something we've loved for years and we love working together but we weren't expecting this at all. The process has been an amazing experience and we'd like to thank our TONI&GUY family." 38 / hji.co.uk

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NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR Alex Morton Jamie Stevens London

“I can’t even talk but I’d like to say a massive thank you to my team at Jamie Stevens London.”

39 / hji.co.uk

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MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Jim Shaw & Daisy Carter Essensuals Billericay

“I’m blown away as it's taken me since 2012 to win this again and thanks to Daisy for the past five years!"

40 / hji.co.uk

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AFRO HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Rick Roberts Rick Roberts Salon

“I’m not usually short on words but it’s taken me seven years to get this award. Thank you to my beautiful wife, HJ and my amazing Schwarzkopf Professional family. This award is for my two boys!” 41 / hji.co.uk

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ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR Mark Leeson Art Team Mark Leeson

“Thank you very much to Revlon for their support this year, Jayne, HJ , Schwarzkopf Professional and our entire team for making this happen.” 42 / hji.co.uk

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SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

BRITISH COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR Sophie Gibson & Jonathan Turner Hooker & Young

“We’re so proud to have won this award. We have the best mentors at Hooker & Young – thank you so much to Michael and Gary and all of the team. We’re so grateful as it means so much to us.” 43 / hji.co.uk

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TREND IMAGE OF THE YEAR Federico Patelli TONI&GUY Victoria

“TONI&GUY are my English family and my Italian family are also here tonight – thank you to you both for all of your support.” 44 / hji.co.uk

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INTERNATIONAL COLLECTION OF THE YEAR Jacky Chan Oscar Oscar Chadstone, Melbourne, Australia

“This is amazing and completely unexpected! I need to thank everyone back home and my partner who is here tonight.” 45 / hji.co.uk

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BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Robert Eaton Russell Eaton

“I’m speechless! There are so many people in front of me who have helped and guided me through my career. I’m incredibly proud of our industry and want to follow in Sally’s footsteps to bring hairdressing forward.” 46 / hji.co.uk

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 10 -12 OCTOBER 2020 PRESENTED BY

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JOIN US IN Register your interest now for 2020 Earlybird tickets www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest

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HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG ART TEAM PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL YOUNG

2020

EDUCATION

WIN AT

N O I T A EDUC

A guide to choosing the right type of education to grow your skillset

ith so much education on offer it can be difficult to decide what you need, what you want and not to mention what you can afford. We spoke to established educators to get their expert advice. In-person or online education? The biggest change in education over the past decade has been the rise of online options. “Online education has revolutionised the way hairdressing teaching can be delivered. You can now connect and be inspired in real time which is a huge enabler,” says the L’Oréal Professionnel Education Team. Another plus of online education is that clients can refresh what they have learnt after a face-toface course. Founder of GS Education, Gianni Scumaci is an advocate of online education for this reason. He explains: “Our video tutorials came from a personal experience I had at an Apple store. I went into the store HOW TO FIND THE PERFECT TEACHER •Take your research beyond an educator’s Instagram page – explore their experience on LinkedIn and talk to people who have worked with them before. •Look for recommendations on Google or ask the educator or brand for course testimonials. •Discover if they have links to other education forums or have appeared alongside reputable brands.

to further my knowledge about my team’s equipment. I came out with loads of notes and felt ready to pass on what I had learnt. However, when I got back and tried to explain it to my team, I struggled to remember anything. It made me consider how the people on my courses feel afterwards.” This experience inspired Gianni to create video tutorials – he wanted to protect the investment that attendees make on his courses. “In the videos I narrate the technical processes so people can refresh what they learnt on the course,” he adds. Online education can also be used to prepare someone for a course and it extends the life and value of the course afterwards too – for example learners can show it to their teams when they are back in the salon. However, despite all the positives, some people still have reservations about online education. “Nothing is better than hands-on training,” explains Alex Collins, Goldwell Academy seminar leader. “Online education is great for topping up or refreshing knowledge, but you need to feel the hair to master new skills.” Independent or branded education? The next question you might ask yourself is whether to invest in independent or branded courses. “With branded education there is often a set structure and the educators have been trained to a certain standard,” explains Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK and Ireland technical director. “One potential downside of doing a course in a brand’s studio is it might be intimidating for less confident stylists. There are options for artists to come to salons and educate the whole 50 / hji.co.uk

team in their own environment, which might be better value too. Wella Professionals, for example, has courses for the whole salon.” Another point to consider when deciding whether you want branded or independent education is the topic you want to cover. Jo Robertson, founder of the Jo Robertson Hair Agency explains: “You need to have a clear objective for what you want to learn. If you are looking to understand a brand’s colour range, you should be looking for branded education. It is worth remembering that a brand will want you to buy into their brand.” When deciding between branded or independent education weigh up what you want to get out of it and find out whether the course will tick all of your boxes. A short or long-term course? Courses can vary in length from an afternoon seminar to a year-long programme depending on what you are studying. Cos breaks it down: “Creative inspiration, motivation, avant garde styling, session work updates – these subjects can all be covered in anything from one day to five-day courses. In contrast, classic training needs to be developed over time so the student learns discipline, terminology, methodology and the science of hairdressing.” It might be that your experience, or lack of it, will mean you need to dedicate a longer time period to education so identify what skills you need. Akin Konizi, creative director at HOB Salons and Academy has a good way to work out areas for improvement. “Consider what type of client makes you run for the hills,” he says. “Those are your missing skills and you should build a training programme around them.

EDUCATION

“I believe that happiness comes from progression so for me education is always worth the investment.” Gianni Scumaci

You may love cutting bobs but if it’s long hair that scares you, it’s time to look for long hair courses.”

SHUTTERSTOCK

What’s your budget? Everyone values self-development differently, but it’s wise to invest financially in knowledge. Not doing so could mean your team doesn’t develop or your business stalls. “Education is key not only to a salon’s success but for the growth of individuals which in turn will make the salon stand out,” says Catherine Adams, Schwarzkopf Professional ASK education manager. If you’re struggling to see how you’ll afford it, put aside money each month. Plus, “always work out the projected earnings you might expect from taking a course,” adds Gianni. It’s important to re-evaluate your rates after a course. You have expanded your skillset so your clients should pay for your new expertise. Whatever stage you are in your career never stop learning. “I think it’s important for all levels of stylist to keep educating themselves – for example, some of my senior team will still do foundation courses to refresh their skills,” says Robert. “I’m always educating myself too. I join in when the team has education and even learn skills from our junior stylists.” Keep on learning and you’ll be fulfilled, engaged and rewarded – and so will your clients. 51 / hji.co.uk

MONDAY, 29TH JUNE 2020 | LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE

CELEBRATE SUCCESS REGISTER YOUR INTEREST at www.hji.co.uk or contact Lizzi Diggins at 020 3841 7365 SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown at 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk

#BHBA20

CUTTING EDGE Following a successful first year, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing is bringing its men’s hairdressing team back for 2020. Initially launched as the Barber Project, the programme has been renamed PROJECT: Men. The 2020 campaign will include a calendar of educational mentoring days and opportunities to improve technical skills and boost salon business. New team leader Jonathan Andrew said: “Men’s hair is something I am passionate about and there are lots of avenues to explore from the salon to the stage.”

All of the latest men’s hairdressing news to help you improve your grooming game

SHUTTERSTOCK

PROJECT: Men

HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT BARBERFEST? BARBERFEST is set to be a mustattend event for barbers and male grooming experts. An experiential event held in Brighton on Monday 6 July, BARBERFEST is brought to you by Modern Barber. The event will run from 9.30am to 6pm and will feature a live cutting competition, dedicated business seminars and learning zones on everything from cutting techniques to social media and photography. Tickets are £25 including VAT. There will also be an awards ceremony on Sunday 5 July. Follow Modern Barber on Instagram and Facebook to stay up to date.

1 in 5

Barrie Stephen and Sid Sottung’s new barber venture in Leicester will tap into the one fifth of men who go to hair salons, according to a Salon Services report.

Shape up and style with our pick of the latest razors

THREE OF THE BEST The Bluebeards Revenge Cut Throat Razor – RRP £9.99

54 / hji.co.uk

UKI Multi Razor – £165

Dark Stag Kamisori Razor – £36+VAT

A CUT ABOVE

Beautifully finished styles that are as wearable as they are stylish 55 / hji.co.uk

“This men’s collection takes inspiration from all walks of life. It includes an eclectic mix of hair textures and types which reflect what is going on in the men’s fashion industry right now. There is no real one set look or trend, so it is all about working with individuality. We were also inspired by Dior and Louis Vuitton’s latest campaigns.” Dexter Dapper Johnson and Luke Harris

Hair: Dexter Dapper Johnson and Luke Harris Make-up: Grace Hayward Styling: Veronika Greenhill Photography: Jack Eames 56 / hji.co.uk

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UNLOCK THE HIDDEN CASH Increase your profits by identifying your cash pitfalls and taking some advice from appointment software company Timely

THE HAIR BOUTIQUE

ou need to be smart if you’re serious about growing your revenue. From identifying where you could be losing money to trying out new ways to boost profits, Timely supports salons to keep their bottom line healthy and customers happy. To learn Here are some more visit creative ways to gettimely.com increase your revenue:

or call

Express yourself +44 20 3808 Offering your clients 0465 express services is a way to help them feel appreciated while boosting your bottom line. Come up with some fast, affordable and easy-to-sell services that your clients will love. It could be quick updos, massages or express blow-dries. Sync with the seasons You’ll know the busiest days and times for you and your team – many salons are hugely busy before the festive season kicks off but find themselves empty when everyone’s on holiday. Planning ahead can take the headache out of your cash flow. Get creative with promotions and events to draw new or existing clients back into the salon when it is quiet. There are lots of ideas for this in Timely’s salon promotions blog. Get your clients to be upfront Online booking gives you the opportunity to request a deposit. If someone has part paid they will be more likely to turn up – saving you time, hassle and money. It pays to set up automated appointment reminders. With Timely, you can send custom SMS marketing and email messages whenever you like. Just set, forget and watch your no-show rate decline. Are you ready to unlock the hidden cash in your business? Download Timely’s free salon profitability guide now.

ARE YOU MAKING THESE MISTAKES? Here are four common money mistakes that could impact your bottom line...

salon had last week, last month and last year. Get ready to be surprised (and possibly frustrated) at all of the money lost as a result.

MIND THE GAPS Look at your calendar and identify your busiest days of the week. Are there any days where you’re turning away paying customers? Could you maximise productivity and profit by only showing online booking availability before and after booked timeslots? Timely’s Minimise Gaps feature will help you to make the most of the time and resources you have available.

WHAT ABOUT NO-SHOWS? No-shows create havoc in your schedule but have you ever considered what they’re doing to your bottom line? Sit down and work out how many no-shows your 57 / hji.co.uk

DISCOUNTING DOS AND DON’TS You might think discounts are a great way to pull people through the door but any work you do at ‘special’ rates (such as discounts for children, senior citizens or students) is work that earns you little or no profit. Can you afford to keep that up?

SALE TIME Retail products are a key source of income for most salons. Can you name your best and worst selling products? Does your stock ordering system reflect this list? What can you do to boost retail sales?

THE UPSIDE DOWN This homage to the Netflix show Stranger Things is filled with 1980s throwbacks

“We were inspired by the1980s – two looks were based on Stranger Things characters and the third model’s hair was inspired by the High Top.” OSMO creative team Hair: OSMO creative team members Justin Carr, Tom Baxter and Myles Lewis 58 / hji.co.uk

Styling: Joey Bevan

Photography: Jen Baker

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A spectrum of beautiful and wearable colours

59 / hji.co.uk

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“My collection is a celebration of colour, bringing to life iconic colour forecasts for today’s consumers. Each image has its own colour story and personality to show how colour is a transformational part of any look. Chromatic combines my passion for the hairdressing industry and my expertise in creating beautiful and wearable editorial styling. The collection is aspirational and inspirational to both hairdressers and clients as it introduces this season’s strongest trends.” Robert Eaton

60 / hji.co.uk

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Hair: Robert Eaton at Russell Eaton Make-up: Lucy Flower Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Richard Miles

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PRIVÃ&#x2030;

Master the art of understated luxury

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“Privé is about understated luxury. Women who have the means to get what they want in life but don’t want to shout about it. The looks are an eclectic mix of everything we love to do with hair. The imagery shows strength and beauty with classic techniques that are finished to perfection.” Gary Hooker and Michael Young

69 / hji.co.uk

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Hair: Gary Hooker and Michael Young at Hooker & Young Make-up: Megumi Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Michael Young

71 / hji.co.uk

LIVE EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020 In association with

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Moonlight Dazzling colours clash and collide and a variety of striking 3D shapes jostle for attention

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“We captured these looks in Iceland, which is a stark, quiet and monochromatic landscape. The still setting powered these extraordinarily vibrant images to the foreground. The result is an unforgettable image of wonder and awe for every creative. This collection shows how you can use specific techniques to create really beautiful looks.” Angelo Seminara

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Hair: Angelo Seminara Make-up: Laura Dominique Styling: Niccolo Torelli Photography: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole 78 / hji.co.uk

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15 Minutes Push the boundaries of fashion 79 / hji.co.uk

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“Inspired by Andy Warhol’s Pop Art with its vibrant colour palette, the 15 Minutes collection puts unconventional beauty in the spotlight and illuminates it with texture, colour, shape and form. The collection draws on the dreamlike quality of an old-fashioned polaroid print. Each look was meticulously crafted to showcase the model’s personality. The hair was coloured with a mix of industry pigments and craft paints in a freestyle method that pays homage to underground street style. The result is playful pops of colour and striking silhouettes that celebrate an experimental generation who are pushing the boundaries of fashion.” Darren Ambrose

81 / hji.co.uk

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Hair: Darren Ambrose at D&J Ambrose Make-up: John Christopher Photography: Jenny Hands

84 / hji.co.uk

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PLAN AHEAD TO AVOID THE POST-CHRISTMAS SLUMP In the busy period before Christmas it’s easy to forget how much quieter it can be in January. Follow the NHBF’s guide to boost your takings in the new year and to avoid the post-Christmas blues

t’s important to avoid doing too many discounted appointments, says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. She adds: “A recent NHBF member survey found that although 52% of respondents agreed that discounts help to build a new employee’s column, 43% felt discounting undervalues the industry and 28% said that offering discounts eats into long-term profits.” However, there are other steps you can take, Hilary points out. “For example, you could give all your December clients a Christmas card offering free products with full-price appointments during January. This is far less expensive for salons than price discounts but still adds genuine value for clients.” Create VIP events for your most loyal clients “Organise a special event to treat your very best clients in the More support new year,” says from the NHBF Hilary. “You can showcase new For less than 75p a day, the products and NHBF offers a wide range of treatments and legal, employment and offer a 10% financial help, plus brilliant money-off ideas for managing people voucher for and boosting your business. appointments NHBF members can call the booked within membership team for free two weeks. Ask information and advice your products about any aspect of supplier if they running their business. can provide some freebies to use as a positive move giveaways.” for your business. Go to nhf.info/clientAccording to The Vegan loyalty to find out what else Society, the number of vegans you can do to keep your loyal clients. quadrupled between 2014 and 2018 and for over half of people (57%), the New year – new salon most important packaging label is the The new year is also a good time to one that reads ‘not tested on animals’. make some longer-term plans for “Do a brief survey among your the months ahead, says Hilary. “If clients to find out their ‘green’ you’re looking to expand your client priorities and don’t be overwhelmed list, going green or vegan could be by the options available. Take it

one step at a time. For example, you could offer vegan refreshments or start using products that come in biodegradable or recyclable packaging. Make sure you publicise what’s happening in your salon via social media and your website to help attract eco-conscious clients into your salon.” Go to nhf.info/sustainable to find out more about eco-friendly and vegan options for your business.

Visit www.nhf.info/join or call 01234 831965. Join the NHBF before the end of December 2019 and quote HJD25 to get £25 off your membership fee. 85 / hji.co.uk

COVERS ALL ASPECTS OF HAIR STYLING, BEAUTY AND BARBERING

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T HE HOT LIST

Statement accessory

Cool it

Refresh it

The stylish Balmain Limited Edition Crystal Logo Barrette is dusted in Swarovski silver crystals and references the high shine looks at the fashion house’s A/W19 show. RRP £255

Schwarzkopf Professional has expanded its IGORA portfolio with two new shades – Earthy Clay and Ashy Cedar. They both counteract unwanted orange undertones and give cool matte brown results.

Infused with rice starch, bentone clay and an encapsulated fragrance, Joico Weekend Hair Dry Shampoo absorbs excess oil to leave your client’s hair feeling soft and looking refreshed. From £5

Neutralise and lift

Blown away

Textured care

Revlon Professional has added three new shades to its Revlonissimo range to target and banish red base tones. The trio are designed to neutralise and lift even the darkest hair shades.

Electric London WT-1 Harrier Hairdryer features three heat and two speed settings, as well as an ergonomic handle, removable rear filter and cool shot function. RRP £99.50

Oribe Moisture & Control collection is designed for textured hair. Four new products containing oils, butters and fruit extracts help to protect hair from the drying effects of the environment.

Kick of colour

Small but mighty

Session straightener

Protect your client’s hair during the colouring process with Virtue ColorKick. It contains 100% pure human keratin and it can be added straight to your colour bowl to help repair hair prior to colouring.

Great Lengths has launched Mini Strands and GL Tapes Minis. Half the size of the original bond and GL Tapes, they can be used to create discreet volume on clients with thinner hair.

Beloved by session stylists backstage at fashion weeks, the BaByliss 9000 Straightener is a cordless straightener that heats up and cools down quickly to create smooth hair on the go.

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Mask marvel

Curl friend

Hair jewels

Enhance colour vibrancy, refresh existing tones or experiment with temporary colour with Moroccanoil Color Depositing Masks. The masks nourish and colour at the same time.

The new and improved milk_shake Curl Passion range contains oils from the Amazon rainforest. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in treatment spray.

Add to your hair-up offering with Kela Hair Jewellery. The collection of hair charms, chains, crowns and pendants are kind to hair and an easy way to add an on-trend extra to your updo services. From £26.95

Power up

No yellow

#veganfriendly

KMS Addpower has launched three products to strengthen fine hair. The shampoo, thickening spray and strengthening fluid are packed with rice protein and white tea extract.

OSMO Super Silver Shampoo and Moisture Masks are now available in sachet size, ideal for introducing blonde and silver-haired clients to the range’s brightening benefits. RRP £1.90

MONAT Restructuring Collection is a regime that features four products to treat damaged hair. The routine starts with a pre-wash conditioner and ends with a restructuring serum. From £35

Air dryer

Sparkle and shine

Long locks

RevAir has launched the world’s first reverse-air dryer. Using technology where heat is pulled inward (not outwards), it claims to dry curly hair straight faster than a traditional hairdryer. £359

Add some festive cheer to your retail shelf with the WetBrush Holiday Sparkle Pro Detangler range. The brushes glide through tangled locks to give clients a pain-free experience. RRP £14.99

Lox Box Extensions has launched a new Hot Bonded method. A hot tool is used to fuse the bond to the hair and results can last for around 10-12 weeks with the correct aftercare. £250

89 / hji.co.uk

INTERIORS SAM’S TOP TIPS • Be imaginative Push the boundaries of your brand’s image and the experience you can provide for your clients and staff. • Embrace the challenge The most troublesome aspect of a project can often result in the most rewarding elements of the experience. • Keep your principles Good design will exceed your aims for the space so believe in the ethos of your brand and challenge yourself and your team to make your vision a reality.

Name: HARE & BONE Address: 7 High Street, Esher, Surrey, KT10 9RL Owner: Sam Burnett Size: 1,300 sq ft Staff: 10 90 / hji.co.uk

INTERIORS

SUBURBAN

BLISS The second HARE & BONE salon is both luxurious and minimalist and builds on the success of the brand’s original central London hub

ARE & BONE Esher is trend conscious, expert-led and client-focused. These are all attributes that have made the HARE & BONE brand, which launched in London’s Fitzrovia five years ago, a success. Owner and creative director Sam Burnett chose the Surrey town of Esher to open his second salon due to its burgeoning suburban community. “Esher is home to a lot of creative individuals who have moved out of central London to pursue a slower pace of life,” he explains. “We look after clients who would have originally booked with us in Fitzrovia, 91 / hji.co.uk

but now visit the Esher salon with their mum, partners and children.” The interior has a calm ‘stay-allday’ vibe to suit the clientele. Sam employed Reis Design agency to work their magic on his two new retail units in Esher. The salon features a classic minimalist design with a monochrome colour scheme that includes touches of gold and brass, along with an abundance of plants to add interest and warmth. The combination comes together to create a look that is classy but welcoming for both clients and team members. “We took cues from British modernity and combined this with a hint of British heritage,” explains Sam. “Just like in the original salon we took inspiration from the London Underground, boutique hotels in New York, London warehouse spaces and a minimal monochrome design.” The salon is lit with feature lighting inspired by the ACE Hotel in Shoreditch, which gives the space a polished appearance. It also softens the industrial feel of the newly built space. “We used reclaimed parquet flooring that is both practical and sleek and it’s in keeping with our desire to be both pragmatic and beautiful,” Sam points out. Concrete effect walls add to the salon’s cohesive mix of textiles and loft-style industrial shelving. Screening allows the team to display retail alongside books, plants and other lifestyle elements. High gloss metro tiles, plants and textured glass create sensory delight for the eye. With breakout areas, an eclectic mix of retro furnishing and a fully functioning coffee bar, HARE & BONE knows how to make clients feel truly at home in this suburban Surrey outpost.

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CAREERS What’s the biggest challenge you’ve faced so far?

Creating a solid team and positive working environment. Success and money will come when you have a happy and motivated team. It can take a while as some may join then leave and some may not be the right fit. Once you have a perfect harmony the team becomes a family. What’s the best moment in your career so far?

The opening party for Blue Tit Crouch Hill. During the day we had lots of press come in for treatments and services as well as bloggers and influencers. In the evening we threw a big bash for the Blue Tit team with lots of friends and family. It was amazing to see all the hard work pay off. What are your tips for someone aspiring to have a career like yours?

Create a life plan – start off small with a six-month plan, then a year plan and an end goal. Doing this and having set times in which you want to achieve everything will give you a clear outlook. Let your aspirations be known and clear to your directors and show your interests. They will appreciate your motivation and help towards your goals!

Chris Merrick

What Instagram accounts do you follow?

@hairbrained_official is a great account for inspiration. For education and inspiration I follow @hairtribe.tv – it’s a free online education platform by Perry Patraszewski (director of Blue Tit London) and Steve McManus. They feature amazing artists and stylists from around the world and each video is set in a different and beautiful location.

The Star Student

What’s next for your career?

Chris started his hairdressing career as an apprentice four years ago and is now the co-owner of the Blue Tit salon in London’s Crouch Hill

I will be continuing to grow Crouch Hill, its team, clients and make it even more successful. In a few years’ time I will be looking to open a second branch with Blue Tit! How would you like to change the hairdressing industry?

I would change the entry route for hairdressing to make it more accessible for people over the age of 19 who live alone and can’t afford to train in a salon or attend a college.

What’s the secret behind your success?

I started my hairdressing career at a later age than some, but I always knew I wanted to run a salon and I knew I would need to become a manager first to gain experience. I was lucky enough to work alongside three directors who pushed me out of my comfort zone by getting involved with Blue Tit education, doing stage work at Salon International, photo shoots and session work. What was your route into hairdressing?

When I was 24 I decided I wanted to try a career in hairdressing so I found a salon in East London where I could work as an apprentice. As an apprentice the money was a struggle, so I worked two jobs for 18 months. I also attended college where I was given my NVQ. After leaving the salon, I landed a job as an assistant at Blue Tit London. What are the pros and cons of your role?

The pro of my role is knowing it’s my salon and my baby – that’s super motivating. It’s also being able to build my team, create a family and an atmosphere. The con is the pressure that comes with the job – working every day to build a reputation, trying to create the best working space and a perfect balance in my team. All of this can definitely be turned into a positive and used as motivation. What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

Put yourself out there and do things that will challenge you creatively. Produce your own shoots, work with make-up artists, other hairdressers and assist on shoots. You should also try and land a spot on stage with your team. 93 / hji.co.uk

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round.

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Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 50% off seminars and selected conferences 20% off Salon International tickets 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

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PRESENTS THE

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PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS