GROW YOUR SKILL AND MASTER YOUR CRAFT
with Wella Education 2019 The ‘never stop learning’ philosophy is the key to a successful hairdressing career and that’s why education is at the heart of everything we do. We’re completely focused on developing your skills in one of our state-of-the-art Studios, in your salon or at a location near you. We have everything you need to master your craft. We never stop listening to your needs and the ever-changing demands of your clients and we’ve used your feedback to create our BEST EVER EDUCATION PROGRAMME. The 2019 programme is jam-packed with the education that brings out the best in you.
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CONTENTS
February 2019 News News 08 Industry Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up
12
Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels
16
HJ Live London Plan your time at ExCeL London on 24-25 February
Business
18
The Face Behind the Brand L’Oréal Professionnel’s Monica Teodoro shares exclusive brand insights
Panel This month’s topic is 23 Business planning for success inExit2019Strategy you considered 26 Have how to sell your salon JOSEPH FERRARO
business? for the Salon 29 Mindfulness Discover how to
JAMES EARNSHAW
reap the mental and financial rewards
58
Features
32
Brilliant Brunette Add some spice to your brown-haired clients’ locks
34
The Spring/Summer Scrapbook Take a look at the trends and how to recreate them in the salon
38
Ageless Style Encourage your mature clients to experiment with cut and colour
Regulars
27
Subs Offer Subscribe to win an EasyStrands holder
72
The Hot List The products to stock this month
74
Interiors Paul Edmonds Battersea Power Station salon is at the heart of a growing community
77
Careers Hairess Manes founder Stephen Hopper reveals how he went from graphic design to opening an extensions salon
82
Life Through a Lens Take a look at Trevor Sorbie’s careerdefining images
Inspiration
44
41
Fashion Seven exclusive collections
69
Get the Look Recreate a modern Victoriana style 4 / hji.co.uk
TONI & GU Y
EDITOR’S LETTER
PAM HOG G,
Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7360
MO PAUL ED
NDS SALO
N
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Managing Director Mark Moloney
Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7363
Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7369
We l co m e ater this month, the HJ team will be hosting our first live show of the year – HJ Live London 2019 – at ExCeL London. Registration is completely free. Simply go to hjlive.co.uk/freetickets to get up close and personal with some of the industry’s biggest names. On page 16 you’ll find the full line-up on the HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and the HJ Men Stage in association with Wahl. Check out our Instagram lives over the coming weeks too for all of the latest pre-show news and updates. It may not feel like it just yet, but spring is on the horizon and your customers will be quizzing you about the next big trends. Our spring/ summer scrapbook feature on page 34 has plenty of tips to impress your restless clients. We’ve also provided some interesting mantras for mature clients on page 38 who want to experiment with their look. Your brunette clients could be the secret to generating some extra revenue this year. We’ve summed up how to freshen up their colour with foodie-inspired shades from dark chocolate and biscuit to mushroom and blackberry on page 32. In an exclusive interview with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Monica Teodoro on page 18 we discover what the brand has in store for its new #WeAreLOrealPro campaign, the secret behind her success and making the most of your team to boost your profits. Finally, our first business panel of the year, featuring the British Hairdressing Business Award winners (page 23), discusses key salon business goals and some simple steps to success for the months ahead. Enjoy the issue and we’ll see you at HJ Live London in a few weeks’ time!
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Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7377
Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7366
Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7373
Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Carolyn Schnell Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk ∞ 0203 841 7376 Event Manager Sharon Webb sharon@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7374 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk∞ 020 3728 9062
On the cover: Hair: Kevin Murphy Make-up: Hristina Georgievski Styling: Emily Ward Photography: Luis Murphy 5 / hji.co.uk
Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 7351 0536
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INDUSTRY NEWS Australian haircare brand evo has launched a new initiative that encourages consumers to question society’s unrealistic beauty standards. The ‘don’t buy it – beauty is abundant, not in a bottle’ global brand campaign aims to shake up the hair industry’s status quo. The campaign reminds consumers they can feel confident using evo’s honest, eco-friendly and cruelty-free products because the brand respects the hair and the planet. evo is using its campaign to spark debate around the pressures surrounding beauty stereotypes and ‘the Photoshop dream’. The brand hopes to reach a global audience with this message and support a world where beauty is abundant, not in a bottle. The brand is celebrating individuals who live outside the expectations of society by spreading its anticonsumerism message on its blog and social media.
SHUTTERSTOCK
evo’s Don’t Buy it Campaign
Pupils Steered Away from Hairdressing Schools are preventing teenagers from exploring alternatives to A Levels to avoid losing pupil funding in the sixth form, according to the Institute for Public Policy Research think tank. Secondary schools have been legally required since last January to allow colleges to advertise vocational qualifications to pupils from the age of 12. The think tank analysed more than 100 schools in England and found less than two fifths (37.6%) were complying with the new legislation. Several colleges have complained ‘selective compliance’ vocational courses, such as hairdressing, are only being offered to underperforming pupils who are not ‘deemed’ fit for the sixth form. The NHF’s chief executive Hilary Hall told HJ exclusively the system is stacked against apprenticeships because schools and colleges rely on funding from student numbers. She said: “We have repeatedly raised
concerns about the lack of information made available to school learners about apprenticeships. This is despite an NHF survey showing apprenticeships are the preferred route of entry into our industry for a whopping 97% of employers.” She pointed out that salons can’t always get into schools to talk to school leavers about apprenticeships, or they are fobbed off with invitations to talk to much younger pupils who are not yet making any big decisions about employment or further education. “It doesn’t help that parents also lose benefits if a young person becomes an apprentice because they are deemed to be working and therefore earning a wage, whereas if they stay on at school or go to college, benefits are unaffected. For some families on low incomes, this makes a huge difference when it comes to making career choices.”
Mark Leeson Joins the Revlon Professional Team R
evlon Professional has named Mark Leeson as its global artistic ambassador. Lisa Jackson, general manager at Revlon Professional Brands UK & Ireland is thrilled to be working with Mark. She said: “His creativity combined with his interest in inspiring colourists and hairdressers through education, shows and collections signals a really exciting time ahead for Revlon Professional.” Mark Leeson and his team will provide 45 days of education a year in the UK and Ireland as part of the new relationship. Mark Leeson said: “Revlon is one of the
8 / hji.co.uk
most recognisable and trusted beauty brands in the world with a glamorous heritage that carries genuine respect. This is combined with the new generation of Revlon Professional that encourages strong and confident real women to express their personality through their hair." He added that he's excited to work with the brand that has "the most beautiful colour in the world". He pointed out that he’s looking forward to being part of the Revlon Professional team and using the partnership to produce artistic, commercial and trend-led looks.
NEWS
Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates
The Stars of Headmasters
Waves, long lengths and creative colour were the stand out trends from London Fashion Week Men’s last month...
The Hairdressers’ Charity Bike Ride Success
he Spirit Hair Co, which has two salons in Buckinghamshire and one in Oxfordshire celebrated a successful 2018 with its annual conference. Held at the Buckinghamshire Golf Club at Denham, Spirit Hair Co co-director Mikaela Martin encouraged her staff with a motivating speech. She said: “2018 was a challenging year and we all know Brexit is on its way. Let’s be so good that clients can’t ignore us and remember teamwork makes dream work.” The day provided an insight into the business’s annual performance as well as the exciting plans for 2019. This was followed by an inspirational afternoon where the teams were split into groups and given missions to complete. At the end of the conference the Spirit Hair Co’s award winners were announced. The winners were rewarded with a weekend away and a celebration afternoon tea. Katie Pidgeon from High Wycombe was named Stylist of the Year, Kylie Churchley from High Wycombe was awarded Colourist of the Year, the Retailer of the Year award went to Olivia Cordice-Turner from High Wycombe and Rosie Brook from Wallingford was named Assistant of the Year.
The Hairdressers’ Charity annual bike ride has raised £9,000 for hairdressers in need. There were 21 bike riders in total, including Kate Preston, Libby Rock, Neil Cornay, Alan Edwards and Russell Eaton. Victor Pajak who organised the event said the money raised will make a real difference to those who need it most. Tickets for the Hairdressers’ Charity Ball on Monday 4 March 2019 are available now. Go to thehairdresserscharity.org for more information.
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#HeartthrobHair ‘Heartthrob Hair’ hit the runway. Wavy and a tad damp-looking, examples were seen at Band of Outsiders and e.Tautz. Both hair looks were created by Toni & Guy using label.m.
C2H4, EMMA GIBNEY
Spirit Hair Co’s Success T
Award was given to Beth Wakeling from Guildford and the Big 5 Award in conjunction with HSBC was given to the Shepherd’s Bush salon. Giovanna Cannata from Croydon was awarded the Retailer of the Year and Busiest Stylist was given to Flavio Lacurti from Guildford. Kamil Czywil from Shepherds Bush was named Busiest Colourist and finally, Streatham Hill was awarded the coveted Salon of the Year title.
#CreativeColour Colours of the rainbow were seen at LFWM. Michael Harding used Pulp Riot colour and R+CO products to create muted colours like dirty pink at C2H4.
ICEBERG
the Teenage Cancer Trust thanks to the competitive Most Charitable Salon Award, which was won by the Surbiton salon. The photographic winners included Joanna Mires and Bart Cacciapaglia from Mayfair for Ultimate Image, Pervin Cirakoglu from Mayfair for Avant Garde, George Mapston from Wimbledon Broadway for Mens Image and Faye Biscoe and Bart Cacciapaglia from Mayfair for Colour Innovation. The Future Stars
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
The annual Headmasters Awards took place at Battersea Evolution last month to celebrate the company’s creative and business-savvy stars. Creative director Andrew Barton directed the striking show at the beginning of the evening, which highlighted the Headmasters Artistic Team’s new Destination Hair collection. The Headmasters Awards featured seven awards for business based on in-salon performance and five photographic categories. Headmasters chairman John Sanders gave the welcome speech and dedicated the evening to Jim Nunn, a founding partner of the Headmasters Salon Group who passed away after a long illness last year. Headmasters CEO Raju Raymond explained the salon group had a successful year in 2018. The company raised over £100,000 for
A/W19 Trend Watch
#LongHair At Iceberg long and straight hair extensions were expertly folded across the head by John Vial for American Crew and finished with branded headbands.
NEWS
Gould Barbers Expands Chain with Tesco Gould Barbers will be extending its partnership with Tesco in 2019. The brand opened 10 stores in 10 weeks at the end of 2018 with 19 barbershops in total and 18 within Tesco’s stores. Brothers Darran and Leigh Gould who own Gould Barbers had 15 self-employed barbers working for them 18 months ago and now this has risen to almost 100. Darran told HJ exclusively the company is planning to open at least three more shops by March 2019. He said: “From March 2019 to March 2020 we will be looking to open stores in 25 to 50 new locations.”
Toni & Guy Announces New Chairman Salon group Toni & Guy has named Nigel Darwin the new CEO with immediate effect. The appointment comes after industry legend and salon chain founder Toni Mascolo passed away at the end of 2017. Pauline Mascolo, Sacha MascoloTarbuck and Christian Mascolo said: “After a thorough and rigorous search process, we are delighted that Nigel has agreed to join Toni & Guy and we look forward to working with him. We know there is a really exciting future ahead, with the priorities being growth and new opportunities in every aspect of the business.” Nigel brings 20 years of experience to the role from a range of consumer sectors including beauty, wellness and fashion. In his most recent roles he has grown a number of brands from luxury to mass market within the UK and globally. His previous positions include CEO of ESPA and managing director international for New Look. On his appointment Nigel said: “I am honoured to have been asked to lead the Toni & Guy business – which is the voice of unrivalled excellence within hairdressing. Toni & Guy and our extended family of
Life-Saving Hairdressing Erinna Lindfield from Jazz Hairdressing in Northampton identified a hard lump behind her client’s ear when she was trimming his sideburn in late 2018. She urged her client to get it checked by a medical professional and within days he was diagnosed with a stage three melanoma. He has since had surgery and received the all-clear. Erinna told HJ exclusively: “I saw the mole and knew I had to say something. You have to be tactful but my experience proves that by making someone aware of a lump or mole you could save their life.” “I told my client it wouldn’t cost him anything to get it checked out and reminded him before he left the salon to book an appointment to see a doctor.” The NHF told HJ: “If you spot a new mole, a change in the size or colour of an existing mole, or a growth or a sore that doesn’t heal, bleeds, crusts or scabs it's worth letting your client know and suggesting they get it checked by a medical professional." Melanoma and Skin Cancer Early Detection (MASCED) runs a course on how to spot the early signs of cancer. It's specifically designed for hair and beauty professionals and takes two hours to complete for £20. Go to masced.uk for more information.
salons, franchisees and partners have influenced and trained more individuals in over 40 countries around the world than any other hair brand." He added: "I look forward to working closely with the Mascolo family, our teams and partners to build on this fantastic foundation – and to honour Toni Mascolo’s vision and legacy by writing the next chapter of growth in the Toni & Guy story.” In his role Nigel will lead the Toni & Guy teams to devise and implement strategic plans to strengthen the presence of salons, the label.m Professional Haircare product line and education globally.
ClubStar 2019 Make their Debut The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s ClubStar 2019 team spent the day with team leader Simon Tuckwell for the first time last month. The team were tasked with presenting moodboards and were asked to share their style based on their existing work and achievements. Team member Ciara Darcy said: “Not only did we have to stand up and present, we also had to get used to presenting within a time limit. Simon gave us just over a minute to talk, but didn’t tell us when our times were up. We had to try and figure it out ourselves, which proved harder than we thought.” The day allowed the team to practise presenting stepby-step looks and interacting with a crowd to prepare them for working live on stage. Simon asked them to share three facts about themselves with the rest of the group with one lie and two truths. The rest of the team had to ask questions to get to know each other and boost their confidence.
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SPONSORED BRANDS
BALAYAGE IN A BOX
Press Play with MHD’s New Educational Technology Software
O
nline training resource company MHD has successfully launched its Playlist software. The educational technology platform gives users the power to create bespoke learning from over 500 tutorials. It is already proving a hit with hairdressing educators and hairdressers alike. As Edward Hemmings, creative director at Alan d Hairdressing Education and MHD’s new global ambassador explains: “It’s a privilege to be an advocate for this incredible technology and I’m excited to see the impact it will inevitably have on industry educators
o keep up with the demand T for balayage in the salon, hairdresser and educator Candy Shaw has developed balayage in a box. Sunlights Professionnel Balayage Lightener and a companion educational kit called The Balay Box are designed to provide practical education for the industry. Sunlights Professionnel Balayage Lightener is clay-based for a smooth consistency and can be easily handled. It also has a citrus/grapefruit fragrance. To buy the products email info@rebelbeautybrands. com or call 01442 248 104.
and salons.” Edward adds that he’s currently using Playlist to support all Alan d Hairdressing education. He says it is building their skills and confidence and he believes it will have a positive effect on end-point assessment results. Visit myhairdressers.com to claim your exclusive 48-hour free trial.
SAY HELLO TO THE NEW EXTENSIONS BRAND Impeccable quality is at the heart of Diva Maker Luxury Hair and Lash Extensions. “When I created Diva Maker Diva Collection hair extensions, I knew I wanted to raise the bar in terms of the quality of my extensions,” explains brand founder Louise Brooks. Louise has been wearing hair extensions for over 30 years. Over that time, she has discovered first-hand the issues within the industry, such as the fact hair extensions labelled as human hair
only need to contain 60% human hair. “After years of research, I found a lot of the hair offered on the market is a mix of animal and/or synthetic hair,” points out Louise. This can cause allergies and can leave consumers feeling like they are being misled. As a result, Louise has made it her mission to offer extensions that promise to be chemical-free and 100% real Indian Remy human hair. “We also offer our distributors and resellers a good profit margin and support to help maximise their impact in their prospective markets,” adds Louise. She believes that once your clients try Diva Maker Luxury Hair and Lash Extensions, they will notice the difference in quality. Contact divamakerhair@yahoo.com or call +46 271 80 90 02 for more information on how to stock the brand in your salon.
Discover the Diva Maker Diva Collection difference • Remy Cuticle human hair extensions • Lasts one to three years if maintained properly • Reusable and interchangeable colours • Tangle and shed-free properties • No animal or synthetic materials • Premium quality 11 / hji.co.uk
Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news
What would you tell your junior self? ast month we asked our Facebook fans to share L the advice they would give to their junior selves. A common theme was about knowing their own
DAVID FISHER/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK
self-worth and the importance of training. “Make sure you spend as much time watching the stylists in your salon and ask questions. Training to be a hairdresser is not only about the model nights. Every day is an education if you allow it to be,” said Stephen McManus. We loved this piece of advice from Liza Raby. She said: “Listen, learn, love, observe, create, and above all remember education, education, education is key. Love your clients and wear comfy shoes!” It’s not only juniors who benefitted from the words of wisdom on our page. “I’m a veteran stylist with 37 years’ experience and I learned a lot from these comments,” pointed out Judi Tuttle Yazi.
Gaga for Gaga One of the most clicked stories in January was our article about how to recreate Lady Gaga’s Golden Globe updo. We got the lowdown on the inspiration behind it from Frederic Aspiras – the hair and wig art designer for Haüs of Gaga.
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Social Shout Out
#HJLoves Have you created a look that the rest of the industry needs to see? We have a new hashtag you can use to tag your best work on Instagram. Every week we’ll be reposting our favourite looks on #HJLoves to share with our 178,000 followers.
Passionate about patch testing his month’s most T read article was on the importance of patch
@samanthacusicklondon Samantha is the queen that keeps key YouTubers’ hair super chic and the before and after shots of her team’s insalon looks are dreamy. Akesha, digital editor
testing in the salon. If you’ve ever wondered whether skipping the patch test and having a disclaimer is enough, this is definitely worth reading. Discover our HJ Insurance expert’s advice at hji.co.uk/c/legal.
@ jhair_stylist Sexy and natural waves are what it’s all about this season. James’ feed provides a wealth of inspiration for the coming months – check it out! Laura, HJ editor
Spill It for Fashion Month Fashion month is nearly upon us and we are more then ready to see the A/W19 trends. New York fashion week kicks off the month on 9 February and it will be wrapped-up in Paris on 5 March. If you’ve ever been curious about what some of the top backstage stylists carry in their kitbags, head to our YouTube channel to view our mini series with the likes of Syd Hayes and Darren Ambrose. 13 / hji.co.uk
@hayden_cassidy As global ambassador for Andis, Hayden’s feed is a melting pot of around-theworld stage work and flawless fades – all narrated in a downto-earth tone. Charlotte, HJ Men editor
Create colour vibranc y
NEW IGORA VIBRANCE A state-of-the-art moisturising demi-permanent hair colour, with a liquid formula that can turn into a gel or cream for more service options.
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LIVE IT UP!
KEY DATE:
24 – 25 February, ExCeL London
HJ Live London is back this month and registration is completely free. Here’s a look at the stage timetable and the big name acts you won’t want to miss! HJ Stage in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Get up close and personal with the best talent the UK industry has to offer. Award-winning teams and artists will showcase their most recent collections and will show you how to create iconic and fashion-forward looks.
Sunday 24 February 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:10 13:50 14:30 15:10 15:50
Karoliina Saunders Sarai Hair & Beauty The Vault Artistic Team Jason Liddiard for Unite Toni & Guy British Hairdressing Awards winners and finalists RUSH Art Team Guy Kremer Art Team Mahogany Art Team Sanrizz Academy Team Thomas Hills
T “Our latest collection ‘Ed-torians’ takes references from the Londonbased Turkish fashion designer Bora Aksu and ground-breaking film director Ken Russell. Contours and prominent disconnection are married with cool metallic mint and opal blonde shades.” Mahogany Art Team
Monday 25 February
S “We’ll be presenting images from the Toni & Guy Legacy collection. We’ll also be interpreting the finished looks from the finalists and winning collections from the British Hairdressing Awards.” Toni & Guy British Hairdressing Awards winners and finalists W “We will be displaying the progressive cut and colour techniques behind our Splendour campaign collection.” Rudi Rizzo, Sanrizz artistic director
S “We will be showcasing our award-winning timeless looks and mixing them up for 2019.” Jonny Engstrom, Guy Kremer Art Team
10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:10 13:50 14:30 15:10 15:50
Andrew Smith Salons David Rae Salons Hare & Bone Sebastian Professional Cult Team SAKS Art Team Headmasters Pro Artistic Team Andrew Jose and Eva Lundgren RUSH Artistic Team Brandon Messinger at HOB salon Georgia Bell at Twisted Scissors
S “Who doesn’t love big hair? This time we’re celebrating everything that is wonderful about voluminous looks and showcasing different techniques to achieve statement styles. Like they say – go big or go home!” Luke Pluckrose, Saks UK creative director 16 / hji.co.uk
X “I will be demonstrating an advanced precision cut using thoughtful disconnection and refining techniques to produce an ontrend look with a current feel.” Brandon Messinger, HOB salon director
W “Fresh from London Fashion Week, we’ll be sharing our take on the breakthrough hair trends straight from the runway.” Andrew Jose
JORDANNA COBELLA
Register for free at hjlive.co.uk/ freetickets
HJ Men Stage in association with Wahl Hosted by Wahl and HJ Men, this stage will bring you the biggest names in barbering and men’s hairdressing. Covering the breadth of the industry from independent artists to top barbershop teams, this is a unique opportunity to witness the best in the business. X “We will be showing classic and sporty hair and beard styles created using both clippers and scissors.” The Wild Hare
Sunday 24 February 10:30 11:10 11:50 12:30 13:10 13:50 14:30 15:10 15:50
The Wild Hare Outline Creative Team Jonathan Andrew Wahl Artistic Team Charlie Cullen and Dexter Dapper Johnson Wahl Artistic Team Tom Chapman Ross Charles Teddy Edwards Cutting Room
WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM
S “I will be showing the audience how to stand out from the crowd. I’ll reveal how I combine exceptional customer experience, high-quality products, and tools along with good methods and techniques.” Tom Chapman
Monday 25 February
S “For my HJ Live London appearance I’ll be focusing on texture, showcasing cutting techniques which centre around razoring. I love creating a dishevelled finish with disconnected pieces and layering. I predict these kinds of 1970s styles will be popular in 2019 – and I’m excited to share with the audience how to create them.” Ross Charles
10:30 Lions Barber Collective Ambassadors – Stacey Louise Ayles and Connor Evans 11:10 Wahl Artistic Team 11:50 Scott Johnston aka Rogue Barber 12:30 Graham Grimshaw 13:10 Wahl Artistic Team 13:50 Murdock London 14:30 Richard Ong from OBBarbers 15:10 Christian Wiles 15:50 Vivienne Howe
W “We’re planning two kinds of cuts: a number 2 back and sides with a taper fade and a skin fade, both in the Murdock London style.” Murdock London
X “I will demonstrate a haircut on stage while sharing the incredible work The Lions Barber Collective is achieving as a charity. I’m looking forward to informing the audience about mental health in barbershops and how incredibly important it is to help your clients with not just their grooming regime but their mental health needs too.” Stacey Louise Ayles
X “We’re going to bring real barbering by real barbers in the industry. We want to showcase haircuts and techniques that will be popular in barbershops and salons in S/S19. Paired with music and cutting-edge fashion, we aim to take you away from the norm.” Outline Creative Team 17 / hji.co.uk
*
Timetables are subject to change
BUSINESS
The Face Behind the Brand Can you tell us about your new #WeAreLOrealPro campaign? For L’Oréal Professionnel, 2019 is all about ‘pushing the pro’ and this really is at the heart of everything we do. #WeAreLOrealPro is about celebrating not only our incredible network of talented salons and hairdressers, but the industry as a whole and what makes it so special. There are so many stories to be told from entrepreneurial geniuses that are breaking the mould to extraordinary and inspirational artistry. We have a rich community and we want to spotlight it.
What’s the secret behind L’Oréal Professionnel’s continued success? For L’Oréal Professionnel it has always been about being simultaneously customer and consumer-centric. There is no one size fits all and we truly do create a bespoke approach for our partners. Innovation is also key for us and we’re always introducing new breakthrough technologies. Last year we launched the 100% herbal hair colour, Botanēa, and this was in response to the evolving needs of consumers today.
L’Oréal Professionnel’s general manager Monica Teodoro shares her insights into running a successful business and what L’Oréal Professionnel has in store for 2019 What’s your brand ethos and how can this be relayed to salon clients? Our brand mantra includes three principles, we are: professional, exceptional and for all. A good example of how this mantra is brought to life is through our group initiative, Salon Emotion, which puts the client at the heart of all of the salon touchpoints. This builds a unique service experience from the welcome and consultation to the backwash and retail. Consistency in customer service is the backbone for any salon business and we work with our partners to help build an exceptional salon journey. What are the biggest challenges facing the professional hair market today? There are multiple challenges in today’s professional hair market, but one that I am particularly passionate about is attracting new talent to the industry. It is our job to really help shine a light on hairdressing as an amazing vocation and career choice. This is something that needs to be tackled by all industry players as a community.
Behind the businesswoman What do you love most about working at L’Oréal Professionnel? I love the people. We work in such an incredibly talented industry where the passion is inspiring. I feel part of a very big and very creative family. What’s your biggest achievement so far? For me, it is all about making a difference, regardless of whether it’s great or small. If I can help to positively impact a person or a salon business, this is what is important to me. What’s the secret behind your success? My team – you cannot accomplish anything by yourself. It is not my success, it is our success. What are your tips for running a successful business? Clarity, focus and passion. Have the courage to make the changes that are needed in this fast-evolving industry. How do you get the most out of your team? I try to leverage everyone’s strengths and embrace their diversity which makes a team so enriching. A team is like a puzzle – each individual plays an integral role and it is my job to bring all the pieces together to complete the bigger picture. 18 / hji.co.uk
Can you share your top pieces of advice for salons preparing for the year ahead? Take a deep breath and don’t try and tackle everything at once. Choose your three focuses and work your way down the list one by one. What exciting innovations will you be bringing to market in the near future? We are always striving to innovate from both a colour and retail perspective, so we have lots coming up. Our priority is the consistency of the experience that salons deliver as this needs to evolve. In today’s demanding market, it is essential to invest in the education and upskilling of the salon team to maintain an exceptional standard of service. We work with our partners to not only create bespoke education plans, but also share our wealth of consumer insights to really help salons make strategic choices and build robust businesses.
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ince 1909, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel has provided hairdressers with innovations that have been approved by the greatest names in the industry. The brand is present in the biggest fashion shows around the world and works hand-in-hand with some of the most talented backstage hairdressers and salons. Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel develops products to meet the needs of the customer and consumer, which means they will give you the best performance, whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re working in the salon, on a shoot or on the move. Find out what #WeAreLOrealPro means for you and your salon in 2019â&#x20AC;Ś
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Iconic products and innovations Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel has an extensive range of colour, haircare and styling products to meet your clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s every need. The brand is constantly innovating with game-changing launches that empower hair artists to create the trendiest looks. 10 Years of INOA INOA is celebrating a decade of being Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading no-ammonia permanent hair colour for all hair types. 40 Years of Majirel The Majirel hair colouring system has given stylists a 20 / hji.co.uk
rich, permanent hair dye, which has provided the perfect coverage for grey hair for 40 years. Herbal hair colour first with BotanÄ&#x201C;a Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel has created &10 Ă&#x2022;/01 Ă&#x161;Ă&#x2122;Ă&#x2122;Ć´ %"/ ) % &/ ,),2/Ä&#x192; ,1 + ,##"/0 )&"+10 natural colour and a wide care range for 1%" Ă&#x17E;Ă&#x2122;Ć´ ,# " 216 consumers who look for products with natural ingredients.* *
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Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel is using the hashtag Ĺ&#x2C6; Ă&#x161;â 1, -/,*,1" 1%&0 6" /Ä&#x2018;0 Ä&#x2018; / ) Colour Trophy, which is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest running live hair competition. It is open for entries from Monday 7 +2 /6 Ă&#x203A;Ă&#x2122;Ă&#x161;â 2+1&) ,+! 6 Ă&#x161;ĂĄ " /2 /6 Ă&#x203A;Ă&#x2122;Ă&#x161;âÄ&#x192; 3"/6 6" / 1%" / +!Ä&#x2018;0 &* &0 1, !/&3" competition within the industry, upskill hairdressers and inspire those coming into the hair world to take their hair artistry to the next level. Go to lorealcolourtrophy.com for more information and to enter.
21 / hji.co.uk
T T U U O O B B A A D IL
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R O L O C www.osmo.uk.com
BUSINESS PANEL
What do you hope to achieve in 2019? This year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards winners share their ambitions #,/ 1%" 6" / %" ! +! 1%" 01"-0 1%"6 -) + 1, 1 (" 1, #2)Ɯ) 1%"&/ $, )0 Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design
Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year
Name: Darcey Clarke Salon: Ashley Gamble Award: Junior of the Year
“We plan to grow our client retention by offering a great customer experience and client journey in the salon. We want to encourage client recommendations and the use of our fantastic smartphone app.”
“This year we’ll be focusing on our staff as we want to ensure they receive the best education and are rewarded for their hard work individually and as a team.”
“I’ve graduated from a junior to a stylist so my next goal is to build my clientele and become a senior stylist. I’d like to explore the competition and photographic world and promote hairdressing as a career to young people.”
Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ We are writing a set of standards for all aspects of the client journey, which will be measured quarterly with a mystery shopper programme. ∞ We are introducing eight new VIP schemes to increase client retention. ∞ We will encourage clients to use the app for loyalty rewards.
Salv’s steps to success: ∞ We plan to increase our education time from 12 hours per week to 20 hours. ∞ We will increase our one-to-ones with staff from every eight weeks to every four weeks. ∞ We will reward our staff with surprise prizes.
Darcey’s steps to success: ∞ I will build my clientele by showcasing my work on Instagram. ∞ I’m in the final for the Schwarzkopf Young Artistic Team so I hope to win over the judges. ∞ I’d like to get an insight into Ashley Gamble’s photographic work as this will inspire me to enter the British Hairdressing Awards one day.
Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year
Name: Mila Timberlake and Natalia Irvine (pictured) Salon: Rainbow Room International, Uddingston Award: Front of House Team
“My main aim for 2019 is to help all of my team to be highly self-motivated. I plan on doing this by mentoring my staff in their work life and home life as I feel both are important to having a happy team.” Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ I plan to book time with members of the team to create a plan of action that will be achievable and exciting. ∞ I will help my younger team members to set short term and long term goals. ∞ I aim to monitor and assess the end results of these goals by following up with my staff regularly.
Name: Steve Rowbottom Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award
“We’ll be celebrating Rainbow Room International’s 40th anniversary this year. Our aim is to continue exceeding client expectations with great communication and the best overall service.”
“We aim to grow Westrow Academy’s reputation as a leading educational facility. We want to improve on our success of having an 86% ‘outstanding’ achievement rate, against the national average of 67%. We also plan to develop and grow our programmes over the coming year.”
Mila and Natalia’s steps to success: ∞ We will deliver a high level of customer satisfaction by building on our first-class service. ∞ We will deal with queries in an efficient and personable manner. ∞ We will build on our strong relationships with our client base.
Steve’s steps to success: ∞ We will continue to use our selective recruitment process to secure the best educators. ∞ We will adapt our programmes to be in line with any industry changes. ∞ We will continue to deliver high standards to earn the respect of salon owners and manufacturers.
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BUSINESS PANEL Name: Mimi Kobayashi Salon: Billi Currie Award: Salon Stylist of the Year
Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2
Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1
“I want to keep building my hairdressing skills and building my portfolio. I’d like to create my own collection of images and continue to deliver the highest standards to our guests and build links with international brands.”
“All high street businesses have a lot of issues facing them - increased overheads and business rates, recruitment and the uncertainty of Brexit. These are exciting times to be in business and I’m ready for what 2019 throws at us.”
“Our third salon is opening in Balham this year. We’re also developing a YouTube channel to help clients and give our stylists the exposure they deserve. Plus, we’re opening a training academy that will be aligned to an NVQ qualification.”
Mimi’s steps to success: ∞ I plan to do lots of training, including management courses. ∞ I want to take part in test shoots and create content for social media. ∞ We’ll review our guest’s experience in the salon and we’ll research new ways to improve it.
Phil’s steps to success: ∞ I will plan for the foreseeable and unforeseeable future. ∞ I will be looking for the next hairdressing star in the local area. ∞ Community is key for survival and I plan to build on our partnerships with brands in our area to improve business for everyone.
Natalie’s steps to success: ∞ We’ve analysed our internal systems to ensure our expansion is smooth and controlled. ∞ We’ve hired a social media manager to co-ordinate our online presence. ∞ We aim to ensure our company culture is consistent in all our salons.
Name: Melissa Timperley Salon: Melissa Timperley Salons Award: Marketing Award
Name: Ian Marshall Salon: Spargoland Award: Innovation of the Year
“We want to increase our turnover and net profit by 30% in 2019 by attracting and retaining clients who love our approach. We will act as advocates for the salon experience and will tell others about us.”
“My aim is to increase awareness on how to create a fun and safe environment for anyone with learning, physical or additional needs. We want to educate the industry on how to make their salon and staff more accommodating to this section of the population.”
Melissa’s steps to success: ∞ Our aim is to gain referrals from clients who love their hair after visiting us for the first time. ∞ We will improve our website’s SEO to ensure we are listed in the top three on all web searches. ∞ We will enhance the skills of all our team members so we can be the best at what we do. Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “My goal is to make the company financially stronger this year by reducing overheads, increasing turnover for the three-salon group and reviewing our pricing structure. The impact of these three tasks across the group will be significant and will give us the opportunity to move our salon group and employees forward.”
Ian’s steps to success: ∞ We want to get funding to grow the charity at our original salon and educate the rest of the industry. ∞ I plan to nurture the charity’s potential with help from my team. ∞ Our aim is to source education that will help the charity to grow. Janet’s steps to success: ∞ We will review all current stock levels across the three salons and move existing stock from salon to salon, which will reduce our purchases over a two-month period. ∞ I will help all of our young team members who are on training programmes to contribute to our salon turnover. As soon as our Level 2 employees have completed their colour unit our insurance company are happy for them to apply colour. ∞ Clients are still price sensitive, but I feel it’s important to regularly review prices. It maybe only one area that
24 / hji.co.uk
Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year “The aim is to grow the company and build our profile. We will maximise every opportunity to drive our profits. Our salon inspires and ignites ideas and I’m working with the team to create inspirational education, while considering their wellbeing.” Christian’s steps to success: ∞ It’s important to focus on a home and business balance. ∞ I’ll take time out with my family. ∞ I will surround myself with like-minded people to take our business ideas to the next level. needs to be increased but only a small increase in price can have a significant impact on turnover.
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The Lana, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk
BUSINESS
What’s Your Exit Strategy? If you are a salon owner, at some point you might want to sell your salon business. Liz McKeon explains why you should consider your plan sooner rather than later
Getting the best price for your salon • Sell at the right time and for the right reasons. If you don't, a buyer will use your circumstances against you. • Determine what your salon is actually worth. Invest in a professional valuation, while accepting that your salon is worth as much as it will fetch in the market place.
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• Make sure all of your business records are in order. People want to buy a thriving salon business – not a neglected one.
very salon owner needs an exit strategy because circumstances can change, and the future is never set in stone. When planning your exit strategy there are two fundamental questions you need to ask: How will you get the money out of your business and how much money will you get? You should plan your preferred exit strategy well in advance, as it can be a lengthy process. Here are some options to consider:
E
Liquidating assets This is the ‘close up shop and sell all the assets’ exit strategy. For a very small salon, especially those that are dependent on the performance of a single individual, liquidation is sometimes the only option, as there’s really nothing else to sell. It might be advisable to restructure the salon so it can be operated by somebody else – turning it into a salon for sale. Keeping the business in the family This is the dream for many salon owners as keeping your business in
• Keep all your business records up to date.
the family ensures that your legacy lives on and provides a living for your heirs. The advantage to this is you may be able to keep a hand in the business in an advisory capacity. However you need to know your family members have the skill, interest and commitment to take the business over. Selling the business to a manager or employee This is ideal as the employee gets an established business they are familiar with and enthusiastic about. It’s possible to arrange a long-term buyout, which can increase loyalty and motivate staff to work hard and make the business succeed. This arrangement may allow you to stay on in an advisory capacity. Handled carefully this option should have very little impact on clients. Sell the salon on the open market This is the most popular exit strategy option for salon businesses. The business owner puts the salon up for sale for a certain price and hopefully walks away with the amount of money they want to get for it. A profitable well run salon should be attractive 26 / hji.co.uk
• Make sure the premises are well maintained and attractive to potential buyers.
to buyers and sell quickly. Assets, database, salon name, and good will can be incorporated when valuing the business for sale and maximising the return to the owner. However salon businesses can be difficult to value and the selling price may be much lower than expected. If this is your preferred exit strategy, spend time grooming your salon for the sale as you want to make it as attractive as possible to your potential buyers. Whichever exit strategy you choose, planning in advance gives you time to do it right – and maximise the return on your investment. Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.
SUBSCRIBE
Subscribe this month and win an EasyStrands extensions hair holder EasyStrands is an adjustable and portable hair holder which can be attached to most surface edges, such as the top of an equipment trolley or the edge of a table. The holder can be used in the salon, at home or on the move so it’s perfect for every type of hairstylist. It supports up to 500 strands of hair, which is more than enough for a full head application. Using the holder will save you time, which in turn will allow you to earn more money. Plus, keeping the strands straight will prevent tangling and will allow you to custom colour your extensions evenly before fitting them. EasyStrands launched at Salon International last year after two years of testing and development. It has received critical acclaim from industry professionals worldwide and was a finalist for Best Product Innovation at the NHF 2018 Business Awards. Ten new subscribers will have the chance to win an EasyStrands holder worth £39.99.
Subscribe to Hairdressers Journal International and quote reference HJIFEB For more information on EasyStrands visit easystrands.co.uk
Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates UK: one year print £49+VAT, one year tablet £26+VAT, one year print and tablet £66+VAT. For overseas rates visit www.hjsubs.co.uk Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA
Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65603 February 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
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BUSINESS
The Salon, which is based in London Bridge, included a mindfulness session within its annual conference programme in 2018. The Salon co-owner Helen Le Rose explains: “Everyone had enjoyed our past conferences, but the feedback we received was that they really appreciated the spiritual opportunity this conference had given them. Moving forward we are using mind training and a more therapybased coaching approach when supporting our team to develop their roles within our company.” It’s a mindset that motivates people and despite the fact targets are vital, they will not motivate your team on their own. Spending more time on a mindful approach towards team training has had a direct impact on The Salon’s revenue. In fact since adopting this new approach, The Salon’s retail sales have improved dramatically. Helen says: “Our retail revenue for April to June 2017 was £5,200, while in 2018 it was £8,363, which is an increase of 40% and proves that mindfulness within the workplace can really work.”
ental health problems are on the rise with stress topping the league of reasons why staff take sickness absence, according to research by the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development. In reaction to this worrying trend mindfulness is becoming recognised as an antidote to all the doing, thinking and struggling that goes on in a working day. Salons can be extremely busy and stressful places to work. Advise everyone in your salon team, from the back-office staff to the hairdressers and therapists working directly with clients, to discover the benefits of mindfulness over and above taking a break to check their mobile phones. If you and your team incorporate mindfulness into your daily working routine, it will quickly become part of your salon culture even at the busiest times.
M
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The mindfulness solo exercise Close your eyes, relax, and sit upright. Place your full focus on your breath. Maintain an ongoing flow of attention on the experience of your breathing. To help your focus stay on your
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Can Mindfulness Generate Extra Revenue? Salon business coach Penny Etheridge discusses how to incorporate mindfulness into your team’s daily routine to /" - 1%" *"+1 ) +! Ɯ+ + & ) /"4 /!0 breathing, count silently at each exhalation. Any time you find your mind distracted, simply release the distraction by returning your focus to your breath. Most importantly allow yourself to enjoy these minutes. Throughout the rest of the day other people will fight for your attention so it’s essential to give 10 minutes where your attention is all your own. The mindfulness salon 2 team meeting Let the first two minutes of your salon team meetings be silent. This allows everyone to arrive both physically and mentally. If possible, dedicate five minutes at the end of the meeting to give all team members a mindful transition into the working hours that lie ahead. Mindfulness on the 3 [ITWV ÆWWZ As the day progresses and your brain starts to tire mindfulness can help you stay sharp, keep listening and avoid any poor decisions. After each client do one minute of the mindfulness exercise. These mindful exercise breaks will keep you from reverting to autopilot. Admin-based staff or anyone 29 / hji.co.uk
working at the front desk should set a timer at each hour for a one-minute mindfulness session. Enhancing productivity 4 In practice, mindfulness can do wonders to enhance productivity and happiness in the salon. By creating an environment that encourages employees to be more adept at working with their minds, you will promote a better personal performance and a great environment for the team to work resulting in really happy clients. These benefits are why big-name companies like Google and Apple are using mindfulness in their workplaces. Why not add your company to that list and start including mindfulness in your daily salon life? Penny Etheridge is a business coach and lecturer with over 30 years experience in the industry. She runs Radiant Hair & Beauty Consultancy. For more information go to radiant hairandbeautyconsultancy.com.
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COLOUR
BRILLIANT BRUNETTE
“With the rise of more ‘out there’ hair colours it’s important your brunette clients still feel their colour is creative. It’s all about using a descriptive language in the consultation that will excite and engage your clientele.”
Brown hair doesn’t mean boring hair. The experts share the language they use to excite their brunette clients and the techniques they rate for creating in-demand shades KEVIN MURPHY
Warren Boodaghian, TIGI European technical academy director
Dirty brunette A switch up from the golden hues of tiger’s eye hair, this dirty brunette by Kevin Murphy has a neutral edge to it. Technique: To achieve the shade, Paul Chandler, Advance Pro Salon stylist recommends the following steps. “Apply Advance Pro Salon ColourCode 4/0 with 6% to the roots. This gives the colour that trademark shadow,” he says. “Take two-inch triangle sections and apply alternate ColourCode colours 5/0, 5/73 and 6/0, 6/73 with the desired peroxide. This application of colour creates a reflective, multi-tonal effect.” Watch out: Clients with lighter hair would require a pre-pigment treatment using a demi tone with either gold, copper or red.
Technique: “This colour easily takes clients from a winter colour to something more spring-appropriate. I like to add a few ash blonde bits through the hair to make it multidimensional,” says Jeseca McMahon, OSMO brand ambassador. “I use OSMO Ikon in 8.1 to create this look.” Watch out: This colour can sometimes look flat, so add lighter or darker tones to create more interest.
MCM JESECA
AHON O
SMO
Dark chocolate
Biscuit bronde
TRACEY DEVINE SMITH, AFFINAGE
ALTIN ISM AILI
Darker at the roots, with a cocktail of rich and softer browns, this biscuit bronde by Osmo’s Jeseca McMahon has a hint of warmth at the ends. Technique: “For this look add warmth to create rich toffee and caramel tones through the mid lengths and ends, while keeping the shade chocolatey at the roots,” explains Paul Watts, Joico European colour design team member. “I use Joico LumiShine Dimensional Deposit Crèmes and Demi Permanent Liquid Color. The products allow you to make lightened hair dark without prefilling the hair first.” Bonus: The process typically has a 20-minute development time. This allows for quick transformations that are perfect for a time-poor client.
This cool-toned brown by Affinage’s Tracey Devine Smith is rich and indulgent, just like its namesake. Technique: “You might not realise it, but dark chocolate has a lot of violet tones in it. Next time you have dark chocolate look closely and you will see a violet tone to the dark brown colour,” says Andrew Smith, milk_ shake ambassador. “As the tone is so cool you don’t need to use warm tones to pre-pigment the hair first.” Watch out: Avoid intricate techniques like babylights. Instead keep the application simple and let the rich colour make a statement.
Mushroom brown Altin Ismaili’s portobello mushroom brown is a semi-ashy hair colour that still features warm tones. 32 / hji.co.uk
EELER, OSM
O
COLOUR
Root beer
HEFFY WH
Subtle auburn highlights add a warm dimension to dark brown locks as demonstrated by Osmo’s Heffy Wheeler. Technique: “There has been a shift in brunette clients getting more experimental with their colour,” says Simon Tuckwell, Balmain hair artisan. “I use pieces of dark caramel and rich amber tones to create warmth. I keep the base darker and keep the richer pieces quite close to the base colour for a seamless blend,” he adds. Bonus: Simon says he is yet to find a skin tone or hair length that root beer doesn’t suit.
Rose brown KIERON JUSTIN FOWLES
LTRICK
This shade is similar to mushroom brown but instead of featuring ashy tones, rich mink, which is pictured below by Ross Charles, has earthier tones running through it. Technique: “This shade is perfect for clients who have a lighter brown base. It enhances their tone without having to go too dark,” explains Tracey Devine Smith, Affinage global brand ambassador. “I use A.S.P Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème in 4.24 Rich Mink to achieve this look.” Watch out: If your client has dark hair Tracey suggests bleaching hair first so you can work on a cool canvas. Achieving a pure ash backdrop is key to creating rich mink.
PAUL F AL
An expert mix of grey and beige. Claxton and Cordey’s choppy style highlights that this shade can offer a multi-dimensional hue that is surprisingly wearable. Technique: “Adding greige shades to brunette hair will gradually disguise but still embrace grey hairs. If hair is naturally dark, this look is easier to achieve,” says Neil Barton, Goldwell UK guest artist. Watch out: The right at-home routine is crucial to keep the shade on tone. KMS ColorVitality Shampoo and Conditioner will fight colour fade.
Rich mink CLAXTON AND CORDEY
Greige
A brunette shade that has muted warmth and intermixed violet and golden tones as demoed by Kieron Justin Fowles. Technique: “I like to take a zig-zag parting around the hairline and colour this section a couple of shades lighter than the rest of the hair,” explains Tracy Hayes, Fudge Professional, global head of technical training. “This gives a softness to the face and avoids any block colour.” Bonus: Using this technique means the colour can be used to suit the individual’s haircut and face shape.
RUSH
Blackberry A very dark brown infused with red and pink tones makes brunettes look radiant. Technique: “I like to use a halo technique with this colour to bring light to the face. This works so well with this shade (pictured) and blackberry looks amazing when it catches the light,” says Chris Williams, Rush international colour director. Watch out: Maintenance is essential. Clients will need to use a sulphate-free shampoo and use hair masks regularly to maintain the vibrancy of the red tones.
Revlon Revlonissimo Colorsmetique “SN” Super Natural Shades as a lowlight, alternating this with a prelightener and any of the 23 iridescent shades. Use Nutri Color Creme as a toner. This allows clients to try this trend without the commitment of a permanent shade as it provides temporary colour as well as care and shine to the hair.” Bonus: It’s relatively simple to change your brunette client’s look without a drastic colour change.
Smoky brown
ROSS CHARLES
Give dark brown tresses like Paul Falltrick’s long locks an edgy twist with some ash grey highlights. Technique: “Apply colour using a balayage technique and tone the hair after the highlighting service to give a smoky edge,” explains Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador. “I use 33 / hji.co.uk
TRENDS
THE SPRING / SUMMER 2019 k o o b p a r c S
The new hair up While a dishevelled ponytail is not the most groundbreaking of trends, it delivers serious commercial mileage. This ‘tough’ ponytail will be the perfect solution for clients who want a hair up for a wedding or big event.
EN
Up bun
BORA ASKU, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
BURBE
RRY, R EDK
Down bun
1. Create micro braids across the head. The braids aren’t placed to be visible to the naked eye but will add texture and volume to the hair. 2. Mix together Wella EIMI Cocktail Me Oil and the lighter Wella EIMI Oil Spritz for shine and Wella EIMI Ocean Spritz for texture and spread through the loose sections of hair. 3. Use the ghd Curve Creative Curl Wand to add movement to the look where required, focusing on adding kinks and bends to the hair to help frame the face. 4. Use the ghd Platinum+ Styler to create rigidity to an updo and add body where needed. 5. Scrape hair back using fingers in a loose and informal way and then secure with a small elastic and the heat of the ghd Air Hairdryer.
DION LEE, GHD
ELISABETTA FRANCHI, GHD
Buns three ways
Your guide to the most salonfriendly styles from the fashion week catwalks this season
Pro tip: Perfect for wedding guests
Side buns
Regardless of whether the end look was a loose wave or Pro tip: a ponytail, partings were placed firmly Change the centre stage on the parting spring/summer catwalks. If you have a client who wants to shake things up without losing any length on their hair, why not suggest switching up their parting? 34 / hji.co.uk
PAM HOGG, TONI & GUY
Centre party
TRENDS
HOUSE OF HOLLAND, BABYLISS PRO
CALVIN KLEIN, REDKEN
Varying degrees of the ‘wet look’ splashed onto the scene for S/S19. The main rule for creating this look is you must choose your products and tools wisely: W Sea mist at Calvin Klein: The former chief creative officer at Calvin Klein, Raf Simons, wanted to create a look with slightly wet ends as though the models had walked into water. “I used Redken All Soft Mega Hydramelt Leave-In Moisturising Hair Lotion to make the hair look wet,” says Guido Paulo, Redken global creative director. “I didn’t want it to look drenched, I wanted it to look spritzed.” X A day at the beach at Markus Lupfer: “This is hair that looks like it’s dried after a swim in the ocean,” explains Tina Outen for L’Oréal Professionnel. “It’s a beachy texture that looks wet but is actually dry.” Use L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni. ART Pure Ring Light Shine Top Coat so the hair looks sea-dipped.
Creative colour blocking Heads were shaved at Louise Grey and John Vial for Revlon Professional coloured abstract angular shapes. The key colour product for recreating this look is Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Pro tip: Colorsmetique Satinescent Ideal for in various festival hair metallic shades.
looks
LOUISE GREY, REVLON PROFESSIONAL
Wet, wet, wet
MARKUS LUPFER, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
W Full-on submersion at House of Holland: “A key tool for this look was the BaByliss Pro Titanium Expression 25mm Curling Tong which I used to create a beachy wave,” says Syd Hayes for BaByliss Pro. “I created a low side parting, just a touch lower than the eyebrow, using a water spray and a wide tooth comb. Afterwards I added gel and pulled it through with the comb past the ear to create the wet look.” ALEXA CHUNG, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
Lived-in hair Hair was floating and free at fashion week S/S19. ‘Fluffy ponytails, desert tresses and static hair were instructions from the lead stylists backstage. The big picture is poker straight hair is out and casual French-girl hair is in.
T “I created hair that looks as if the model has been in the desert heat for two days wearing a beanie hat. Hair doesn’t feel too clean and instead has a soft cobweb-like texture that has been squashed onto the head.”
W “Inspired by air travel, this is how a client would want their hair to look in arrivals. Natural texture with a nod to the 1970s, it’s as if the hair has gone slightly static on the flight.” Alex Brownsell, lead hair stylist, L’Oréal Professionnel
Eugene Souleiman, ghd fashion week ambassador
X “The hair has Little House on the Prairie vibes at the back with a double ponytail and a version of a soft and fluffy Mohican at the front.” John Vial, global influencer, Revlon Professional
35 / hji.co.uk
MARY KATRANTZOU, REVLON PROFESSIONAL
PREEN, GHD
PAUL COSTELLOE, TONI & GUY
S “Use label.m Fashion Edition Wax Spray around the hairline and on the sides to create a ‘lived-in’ look.” Indira Schauwecker, international artistic director, Toni & Guy
24-25 February 2019 | ExCeL London
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MATURE HAIR
“As hairdressers we need to make someone look on-trend without making them look like they’ve tried too hard. It’s all about suitability and individuality.” Cos Sakkas
Ageless An age-appropriate hairstyle is an outdated term. Here are some mantras to share with your salon team that will encourage your clients to be bold, bright and allow you both to experiment 38 / hji.co.uk
JFK
Style
MATURE HAIR Mantra: Be mindful of the language you use in your consultation Cos Sakkas, international artistic director and head of education at Toni & Guy “Let’s be honest, no one comes into the salon and asks to be made older – no matter whether they are 25 or 60+. Even if a client’s hair is ageing, they might not feel like they are any older. Make sure your clients don’t feel categorised as anything other than themselves during a consultation. Always take into account their fashion sense and lifestyle. As hairdressers we need to make someone look on-trend without making them look like they’ve tried too hard. It’s all about suitability and individuality. Never patronise clients by thinking you know what they want.”
JFK
Mantra: Grey hair isn’t ageing. It can still look shiny, healthy and radiant Ceri Cushen, creative director at Metropolis Hairdressing “Grey hair needs more tender loving care, but it can still look healthy. When hair begins to grey it sometimes changes texture and can become coarse. This is a great opportunity for you to retail and promote your expertise. Suggest a moisturising range and a good heat protector to shield hair from heat damage. Also make clients aware that grey hair is prone to picking up unwanted tones from smoke, cooking and pollution so they might need to opt for a shine-inducing mask.”
Mantra: The menopause doesn’t have to spell the end of ‘healthy-looking’ hair Dr Sharon Wong, consultant dermatologist and hair specialist “A reduction in oestrogen and the increase in male hormones can cause changes to a woman’s hair such as thinning and a change in texture. You could advise your client to discuss hormone replacement therapy (HRT) with their GP and use over the counter topical products to improve their hair density. Medical treatments can take time to work, so why not suggest styling products such as synthetic keratin fibres that can be dusted onto thinning areas to camouflage the scalp and create the illusion of thickness. You could also recommend dry shampoo as the starch in the product can add texture and volume.”
Mantra: Thinning hair doesn’t mean a restrictive style Hayley Jennings, co-director at Northern Hair Loss Clinic “While it is a normal part of the ageing process, thinning hair can have an impact on a woman’s self-esteem. It’s important not to generalise when it comes to treating thinning hair. There are various degrees of thinning, as well as various ways to treat it, and not all of them will appeal to every client, so treat each client on an individual basis. For example, some longerhaired mature women are perfectly happy to opt for a shorter, more flattering cut as they age to disguise thinning areas. Other clients may prefer to maintain their length and would rather explore options to add thickness and fullness to the hair such as adding extensions.” Mantra: Don’t assume clients want to cover up their greys Jason Hogan, celebrity and associate colourist at Josh Wood Colour “You can empower clients by helping them to go grey on their own terms. I recently had a client with 50% grey hair who wanted to transition to a full “You can empower grey look. When hair is in the ‘salt clients by helping and pepper’ stage you can add a little more pepper in the form of them to go grey on lowlights or more salt in the form their own terms.” of highlights to give the most flattering look. My client loved Jason Hogan the result – and so did her friends. The following week I had three of her friends come in for consultations and subsequent appointments.” 39 / hji.co.uk
Mantra: Never assume a woman of a certain age wants a certain style Andrew Barton, creative director at Headmasters “It’s a misconception that as a woman ages she has to cut her hair shorter. Clients are often shocked when they visit me for the first time and I ask them to grow their hair and come back so I can give them something more flattering. I often meet clients who tell me hairdressers don’t tell them what cut they should have – this needs to change.” Mantra: You are never too old to try something new Issie Churcher, colour director at Brooks & Brooks “Some of my older clients are more adventurous, particularly when it comes to colour. I love adding pastel shades to grey hair. Soft apricot or rosy pink worked into hair through babylights or a subtle balayage looks great on mature clients. Colours that hold more intense pigment can make fine hair look fuller because they reflect more light. A persons’ natural base can also become ashier as they age so by opting for richer tones such as auburn and honey blonde you can add more shine to the hair.”
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WELLA HACKS: IMPROVE THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE
WELLA PROFESSIONALS
Wella Professionals technical educators Fergal Doyle and Jade Harrison discuss simple ways to improve the client experience offered in your salon and how to increase revenue at the same time with Koleston Perfect with ME+
Improve the client experience 1 Consultation is key. Take the time to get to know your client, their likes and dislikes, their lifestyle, profession and home life. Don’t forget to ask about their hobbies and activities, how much time they have to spend on their hair and %,4 ,×"+ 1%"6 + /"12/+ 1, 1%" 0 ),+ă Discuss the clothes they like to wear, the music they listen to and the skin care and cosmetics products they buy. If you take a holistic approach before you even discuss colour, cut or style, you will be able to create a bespoke service and experience to meet their needs. When a client is in your chair give them your full attention and try not to be distracted by what’s going on around you. Keep notes of what they like and dislike. Remembering how they like their coffee might seem like a small detail to you but it will show your client how much you value them. Share the benefits 2 If you give a client an amazing experience, they will be more likely to recommend you and your salon to their friends. Even in today’s world where
you can advertise your work on social media, nothing is as powerful as a personal recommendation. A happy and loyal client is also more likely to spend more with you and take on board any suggestions you make for an extra service. Generate extra revenue 3 It is vital that you suggest upgrades at every opportunity, even to new clients because a client will have more enjoyment and satisfaction from a service and experience they feel has been made to be bespoke to them and their hair’s personal needs. It also means they will be more likely to return. Plant the seed about what you would recommend from your salon menu during every visit but make sure 6,2 "5-) &+ 4%6 &1 4,2)! "+"Õ1 1%"*ă During our Wella Professionals seminars we teach that a sale never happens when you try to sell, a sale will happen when you consume yourself in servicing your client and giving them exactly what they need.
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How can Koleston Perfect with ME+ help? “Providing the latest in hair colour technology in your salon will impress your clients and improve their customer experience because it shows them you are willing to invest in premium products and education. It also demonstrates that you as a hairdresser want to help your clients avoid getting hair colour allergies in future and this will give your clients peace of mind. Furthermore, the improved condition will keep clients returning colour after colour. Condition is the number one client hair concern and finally the industry has a permanent hair colour that will work in harmony with the hairdresser to maintain amazing condition.”
FASHION
MEET THE
QUEENMAKERS Create a buzz with these wearable yet sexy styles for 2019
41 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
42 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
“Our 2019 global education shoot celebrates the ghd Queenmakers – the hairdressers who make clients look and feel like queens in salons up and down the country, every day. We wanted to turn the spotlight on you, while showcasing wearable, exciting and inspiring trends for the Queens who sit in your chair.” Jo Robertson, global head of education for ghd
Hair: Jo Robertson, Dafydd Thomas, Amy Sontae, Zoe Irwin, Luke Benson, Patrick Wilson, Leighanne Regan and Charlotte Mensah assisted by the ghd style squad Make-up: Claire Evans Styling: Boo Attwood Photography: Jack Eames
43 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
COOL GIRL Styles to suit every personality
FASHION
“My inspiration came f rom twin style icons Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. I worked with the models in pairs and grouped them to represent different identities. There is a look to suit any personality, whether a client wants to look edgy, effortless or genderless – this collection has a style for everyone.” James Earnshaw
45 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
Hair: James Earnshaw at Bad Apple Hair Make-up and nails: Becky Hunting and Naomi Halliday Photography: Richard Miles 46 / hji.co.uk
5th - 7th October 2019 | ExCeL London
SAVE THE Register your interest now for 2019 Earlybird tickets www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest In association with
DATE Hair: Claire Chell and Heather Shaw at Francesco Group Make-up: Becky Hunting Photography: Alex Styles
FASHION
Rags to
Rich es Striking avant garde styling meets wearable glossy lock s
50 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
51 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
â&#x20AC;&#x153;The hidden wealth that can be found in derelict buildings was the inspiration behind this collection and I also considered how modern beauty can be seen in industrial design.â&#x20AC;? Alexander Turnbull
Hair: Alexander Turnbull Make-up: Tori Bell Styling: Alexander Turnbull with Jane Bowler Clothing Photography: Jack Eames
52 / hji.co.uk
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experiment with seamless colour techniques for spring/summer 2019. New Rising Bloom fragrance Entice your clients with the new Rising Bloom fragrance, which can be added to Color Sublime by Revlonissimo for a unique sensorial hair colour experience. It provides your clients with the exclusive opportunity to enjoy an exhilarating blend of lively red fruits and lush floral notes that will bring out their bold side.
Make change happen this season Reds are on trend this spring/summer and Revlon Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant red and copper shades will allow you to challenge your creativity. Revlonissimo Colorsmetique and Color Sublime by Revlonissimo offer an extensive range of beautiful, long-lasting reds and coppers with specific C5 colourants for intense results. The essential products: Color Sublime by Revlonissimo To celebrate the new campaign Revlon Professional has launched three new shades in the Color Sublime by Revlonissimo range. This permanent ammonia-free hair colour range was developed to achieve beautiful and natural-looking results that provide up to 100% coverage. It features excellent light reflection performance, provides long lasting colour and even colour results. It also offers optimum respect for the hair fibre. The three new shades can be used in the salon to enhance graphic shapes or to
The three new shades These three new glossy shades deliver long-lasting intense reds and rich coppers for the radiant and bold looks your clients will be lusting over this season.
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DESTINATION HAIR Help clients get the basics right with beautiful and timeless hair that works everyday 54 / hji.co.uk
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;This collection fuses tailored cuts, rich colours and beautiful styling with a softness that is at the heart of the Headmasters signature style.â&#x20AC;? Andrew Barton, Headmasters creative director
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FASHION
Hair: Andrew Barton and the Headmasters creative ambassadors Make-up and nails: Carol Brown and Shreen Gayle Styling: Radcliffe & Skiamma Photography: Jack Eames 56 / hji.co.uk
INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRES HAIRDRESSERR
INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRES HAIRDRESSERR
HAIRDRESSERS H HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
Each month HJ is written to inform, educate and inspire you - delivering exclusive fashion collections, trend and industry news, product information, business advice and features on the issues that affect the industry.
INSPIRING IN NSPIRIN TODAY’SS HAIRDRES HAIRDRESSERR
The Off icia l Report R
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FASHION
R A L U C A T C E P S Be strong on colour to create a big impact
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FASHION
Hair: Joseph Ferraro Make-up: Maddie Austin Photography: Jamie Blanchard
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FASHION
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Glamorous, mysterious and moody, these images mirror my lifelong passion for colour and its vital importance for creating a complete look.â&#x20AC;? Joseph Ferraro
60 / hji.co.uk
Switching to Timely was an easy decision ; m] v;| r -v vo ;-v ĸ $_;u; -u; mo _b77;m 1ov|vĸ o 1om|u-1|vĸ m7 |_; Äťu; ;u |u-mvr-u;m| |o 7;-Ѳ b|_ĸ Ĺ&#x160; Dario Cotroneo, Dario Salon
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FASHION
#Re mix Rea lity Reinvent your style with m 2019 Goldwell Color Zoo
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FASHION
“Break f ree, escape your reality and have some fun with Goldwell’s Color Zoom 2019 #RemixReality looks. Strong contrasts are enhanced by sharp contours. It’s all about mixing it up, reinventing the classics and having some fun. It’s a mashup of the past, present and future with bold pop art influenced colours.” Goldwell Color Zoom 2019 Creative Team
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FASHION
Hair: Goldwell Color Zoom 2019 Creative Team Make-up: Loni Baur Styling: Ingo Nahrwold Photography: Ralph Mecke
64 / hji.co.uk
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CRYSTAL.TWILIGHT Multi-faceted hues that dance in the light
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was inspired by the opulence of the crystal ballroom and the mix of textures on the marbled walls where we carried out the shoot. The oversized chandeliers reflected light that inspired me to create colour with a crystal-like shine.â&#x20AC;? Kevin Murphy
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FASHION
Hair: Kevin Murphy Make-up: Hristina Georgievski Styling: Emily Ward Photography: Luis Murphy
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GET THE LOOK
Modern Victoriana
s u p re m e d e n ig e r s it n-inspired pla ia r o t ic V , y t t P re Anthony Turner re he w ow sh 19 SS ’s at Erdem for L’Oréal Professionnel took the lead Mix L’Oréal Professionnel 1 Tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse and L’Oréal
Join the hair left in the 5 middle by linking the two side braids into one low and
Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli and apply in sections to damp hair.
neat central braid. Braid through to the very 6 ends and secure with an elastic so the hair looks
2 ‘pinched’. Blow-dry hair straight with 3 a hairdryer to achieve a Smooth hair with a luxurious finish and mist with 7 small amount of L’Oréal L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium Professionnel Mythic Oil to Comb in a strong and straight centre parting.
Pure Hairspray.
enhance shine on top of the head.
Start a braid below the ear 4 at either side, link in hair Fix by spraying with L’Oréal from the top of the head and 8 Professionnel Infinium Pure down to the nape of the neck. Extra Strong Hairspray.
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T HE HOT LIST
Colour insurance
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Well gel
The Kenra Colour Simply Blonde range has been created to take any guesswork out of blonding, targeting the three key pillars of /" 1&+$ ),+!" ),,(0 Ĝ )&×&+$Ą colour and control. It is now available at Sally Salon Services.
An extension to label.m Anti Frizz, the 2/) "Õ+" range caters to multiple curl types from S-shaped waves to tight coils. The four-piece line-up can be used to create a bespoke in-salon and at-home regime. From £15.75
L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Transformer Gel is a multi-use gel to foam styler with elastic polymers that can be used on wet hair for /,,1 )&× ,+ 0%,/1"/ 016)"0 +! ,+ !/6 % &/ 1, ,+1/,) +! !"Õ+"ă RRP £15.60
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ghd Glide &0 1%" / +!đ0 Õ/01 %,1 brush. It calms, tames and smooths dry hair quickly and is ideal for clients who want a speedy sleek ),4Ě!/6 Õ+&0% 1 %,*"ă RRP £125
Effortlessly lived-in hair is the focus of the Paul Mitchell Invisiblewear six-piece range. Formulated with 3")3"1 Ö,4"/ &1 !")&3"/0 0,× +! textured hair without ever looking over-styled.
Speed up your extensions service with the EasyStrands Holder. It is an adjustable and portable hair holder that can support up to 500 strands of hair. £39.99 (wholesale discounts are available)
Lighten up
Scent with care
Knot cool
The new Head Jog Light range is now available from Hair Tools. The brushes feature a lightweight mesh handle to give smooth and shiny locks without any arm-ache. £7.50+VAT
Great Lengths Hair Perfume Number One contains notes of peony and lime blossom. It delivers active ingredient keratin to strands )" 3&+$ 1%"* #"")&+$ 0,× +! 0&)(6ă RRP £24.95
Glide easily through both wet and dry hair with the R+Co Detangling Brush. It detangles knots and protects against breakage and split ends while being gentle on the scalp. RRP £23
72 / hji.co.uk
Colour kaleidoscope
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Alive and kicking
Ideal for creative colourists, the IdHAIR Hair Ink is intermixable with both the IdHAIR Hair Paint and Hair Paint Free ranges and consists of six shades that improve hair shine, intensity and colour. RRP £5.70+VAT
Balmain Paris 5 Week Enriching Hair Treatment is just the ticket at this time of year when hair can become dry and brittle. Containing silk proteins, it can seal cuticles and increase body and volume. Salon price £29.95, RRP £59.95
Enhance your client’s colour with Redken Shades EQ Color Kickers. It is available in four shades (orange, red, yellow and violet), which are perfect for boosting the pigments of your chosen Shades EQ hue.
Go blonder
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Pure platinum
Take blonde clients to even brighter levels with Joico Blonde Life Crème Lightener. Formulated with bondbuilding arginine, it’s designed to deliver up to 9+ levels of healthy),,(&+$ )&×ă RRP £19.90
Designed with travel in mind, the Dafni Allure is an innovative cordless straightening brush that lasts for 30 minutes of styling time and features a USB charging port. RRP £149
&3" )&"+10 1%" $&× ,# & " 4%&1" % &/ with Manic Panic Silver Stilletto. The silver toner can be used alone to create a pale platinum hue or it can be mixed with other shades to create smoky variations.
French affair Balance is key Sachajuan Scalp Conditioner ,+1 &+0 #2+$ )ĚÕ$%1&+$ &+$/"!&"+10 to help soothe an irritated scalp and keep the hair and scalp balanced and looking its best. £22
Lômé Paris is now available at Sally Salon Services. The French colour cream brand features 100 easyto-wear shades within 14 colour families, including ash, gold, pearl violet, mocha and natural tones. £6.76+VAT 73 / hji.co.uk
#OpalHair Wella Professionals has introduced Opal-Essence by Illumina Color which gives a milky-metallic sheen with warm and cool light /"Ö" 1&,+0ă %" Õ3" ,- )"0 "+1 shades are Platinum Lily, Titanium Rose, Silver Mauve, Copper Peach and Chrome Olive.
INTERIORS
Vintage Glamour The Paul Edmonds Battersea Power Station salon is quickly becoming the heart of a growing community in South West London
B
attersea Power Station is fast becoming a cultural hotspot and the Paul Edmonds salon chain has been part of the regeneration. “I believe Battersea Power Station is the future of retail and a major London hub for business, living and leisure,” affirms Paul Edmonds, who opened the Battersea Power Station branch almost a year ago. The iconic former power station has informed the design of the new salon. “We wanted to create a space with a glamorous 1940s feel that echoed the power station itself while still feeling contemporary and welcoming,”
explains Paul. When guests walk in, they are greeted in an area that is a fusion between a library and a bar. They can browse the shelves, which are filled with hair products, as opposed to books, or they can relax at the Ruinart champagne bar before their appointment. “We removed the traditional reception experience and instead the client is greeted by a host with a drink – what’s not to like?” says Paul. The salon was designed by Paul himself and luxury designer Waldo Works (whose clients include Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason and Smythson). Industrial grey, orange and blue with touches of bronze are 74 / hji.co.uk
the dominant colours throughout the salon. On the wall a simplified grey panelling echoes the original Brompton Road Paul Edmonds salon and hidden cupboards create a slick and clutter-free environment. On the floor, wide oak boards with brass insets were used between areas to keep a soft sound quality. The salon is subtly broken down into separate sections – a VIP/barbering area, backwash space, colour area and a styling section with a nail bar in the middle. A key feature is the colour bar, which is a dedicated space where clients can watch their colour being made by the Paul Edmonds team of experts. The backwash area features
INTERIORS
completely reclining chairs, which the salon team describe as beds, made out of sublime leather. The windows are designed to represent the windows within the power station opposite and flood the salon with light. They are opened in the summer to expand the space and bring the outside in, which creates an open environment. Paul says: “We encourage our clients and the local community to visit the salon to work and socialise. The salon is not just a hair and beauty destination.” The Paul Edmonds Battersea Power Station salon is clearly a vital and exciting part of the development.
The facts Name: Paul Edmonds London Address: Circus Road West, Battersea Power Station Owners: Paul Edmonds and Yashar Rasekh Furniture: Takara Belmont Paul’s top tips Be the brand Keep your corporate colours and style in mind when choosing your salon décor. Allow for a 10-15% overspend Remember the furniture can take up a large portion of your budget and delivery times can over-run. Do things differently Why have a beige bathroom when you can have a mirrored rose gold one? 75 / hji.co.uk
Salon Supplies Southampton Bond Street, Northam, Southampton SO14 5QA furniture@salonsupplies.co.uk
I N - S A L O N
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salonsupplies.co.uk
CAREERS What was your route into hair? I was originally a graphic designer in Newcastle, and worked in Ibiza during the summer. After my final season, I moved back to my home town and took a job in a hair extension salon where I was given the opportunity to train in hair extensions and to become a salon manager. When the owners decided to close the salon, I spotted there was a niche in the market in my area for hair extensions. There was only one salon offering pre-bonded extensions and none offering ring methods, so I decided to go it alone and start my own business.
Can you tell us about your present role? I’ve had my business for almost four years, and it was my salon’s first birthday in December. We are a private hair extensions salon on one floor offering a one-to-one service. I recently expanded to include treatment rooms upstairs that feature a number of other beauty industry specialists from nails to massage.
What are the pros and cons of your role? I adore my job because I get to meet so many people from all different walks of life. Plus, I can still bring in my creativity. I’m a bit of a control freak and see the business as my baby. I do find it difficult to let anyone do anything that I could do myself but I’m learning slowly.
What are your tips for building a brand? I believe in keeping everything on brand and my jungle-style design background helps with that. You need to have a strong brand vision and be consistent with it as this helps you to be recognised online and offline.
Stephen Hopper
The Social Media Start-Up Stephen Hopper was a graphic designer before he took a job at a hair salon. " ,-"+"! %&0 Ɯ/01 0 ),+ 20&+"00 6" / $, +! &0 02 "00#2))6 20&+$ 0, & ) media to promote it
make some tough sacrifices. If you want to have a successful business, you have to work hard, put the time in and make it your priority.
What is your favourite account to follow on Instagram? I love @NotAnotherSalon. Sophia Hilton’s view on the professional hairdressing industry is really refreshing for me. I was lucky enough to attend the Not Another Social Media course earlier this year, which was fantastic.
What is the signature look you like to create? Waves all day every day.
What challenges have you faced in your career so far?
What are the go-to products in your kitbag?
As much as I love social media and I run my whole business through it, it can be quite a dark place to be. It can most definitely be a struggle not to compare your work with your peers and question if you are good enough. I like to set myself personal goals every few months and then I reflect on them to see how far I’ve come on my journey.
I love the Hot Tools Curl Bar at the moment with the interchangeable heads as it is so versatile and the timer setting is a godsend. Maria Nila products are flying off our retail shelves – they are 100% vegan, cruelty free and smell divine!
What are your tips for anyone who aspires to have a career like yours? Be prepared to work very long hours and 77 / hji.co.uk
What’s next for you and your career? There are some exciting things in the pipeline over the next year which I can’t wait for! Follow @hairessmanes on Instagram if you’d like to find out more.
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team
THE STAG GENTLEMAN’S GROOMING SALON
EXPERIENCED BARBER/STYLIST REQUIRED We are looking for an experienced and passionate barber/stylist, who wants to grow their career and join our busy and friendly team at The Stag Gentleman’s Grooming Salon, Mill Hill. The successful candidate must be confident in men’s cutting & styling with more than 2 years experience required. Good customer service and willing to work as team player. Must be available to work weekends. Full time and part time hours available. Good salary based on experience and availability. This is a fantastic opportunity to join our young, fun, creative growing company. Please contact Josh on: 020 8959 7727/ 07931 237239 Instagram: thestag66 Facebook: The Stag Gentleman’s Grooming Salon
78 / hji.co.uk
hji.co.uk/jobs
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376
Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
HIRING NOW IN ESHER AND LONDON HAREANDBONE.CO.UK
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
WE HAVE OPORUNITIES FOR PASSIONATE, TALENTED, CLINET DRIVEN INDIVIDUALS TO JOIN OUR AWARD WINNING TEAM. -
ESHER SURREY - STYLITS
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LONDON W1 - RECEPTIONIST & SALON APPRENTICE
PLEASE SEND YOUR CV TO: RACHEL@HAREANDBONE.CO.UK
STUART PHILLIPS HOLISTIC HAIRDRESSING
SELF EMPLOYED OR EMPLOYED STYLISTS COVENT GARDEN • Experienced stylists wanted • Offering high commissions Stuart Phillips are currently recruiting established stylists to join our award winning and passionate team in Covent Garden. We are also looking for Apprentices that would like to join our team at Stuart Phillips. To apply for the position please email Christina at stuart@stuartphillips.co.uk Or if you would like more information please contact Santana on 020 7379 5304 79 / hji.co.uk
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 Email: nicola.c@hji.co.uk
TOWELS
PROPERTY
Buy Direct
Camberley / Wokingham. Well Estab Salon. Lease. £3,000wk. Five Days. £25,000 East Berks Town Centre. Good Class Hair Salon. Quality Fitted. Seat 15+. Air-conditioned. Good lease @ £24,000p.a. Staff run. Has been £5,250wk. £20,000 Farnborough, Hants. Very Smart Hair / Beauty. Busy location. Parade. New Lease. Well fitted throughout. £2,000wk. Real potential for younger owner. Vendor retiring. £20,000 - Offers Invited Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Ruislip, Middx - Vacant Salon. Lease. Smart shop front. Would be ideal for a Barber. £5,000 South Herts - M25 belt area. Spacious Salon. Town Centre. New Lease. £4,500wk. Staff run. Retirement Sale Good potential for working owner. £34,995 (property available) West Berks - few miles Newbury. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £2,000wk. Real scope younger owner. £18,500 Wokingham, Berks. Spacious Salon Premises. Town Centre. Suit Gents Barbers. New Lease @ £20,000p.a. No Premium (or £280,000 Freehold)
Town Centre Shop TO LET
7 Warwick Street, Worthing, West Sussex, BN11 3DF
â&#x20AC;¢ Suit Hair Salon use â&#x20AC;¢ Nearby occupiers include HSBC Bank, Robert Dyas, & Debenhams â&#x20AC;¢ 1516 Sq Ft Approximately â&#x20AC;¢ New Lease Available
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Cut costs...not quality. /Majestic Towels @majestictowels T: 0121 7739091 / 7720936 E: info@majestictowels.co.uk W: www.majestictowels.co.uk
WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call or email the team
â&#x20AC;¢ £20,000 Per Annum Contact Agents Michael Jones Commercial on Telephone: 01903 201212
020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk
A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation
To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA
0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk 80 / hji.co.uk
SCISSOR SHARPENING
POSTAL & WHILE-U-WAIT SCISSORS SERVICE Professional Japanese hand sharpening
SCISSORS SHARPENING £18 CUSTOM NAME LASERING £18 inc. immediate return by 1st Class recorded delivery +£5 Next Day Delivery per order
Unit8 Hanover West, 161 Acton Lane, London NW10 7NB T: 020 8965 0585 www.dowa-international.com
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376
EDUCATION AND TRAINING
LEARN THE TRUE ART OF MALE GROOMING Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - The leading barbering expert. i Traditional barbering
i Hot towel cut throat shaving
One day clipper cutting course
i Barbering boot camp
One day course
Four day course
PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk
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MADE IN ENGLAND
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Mobile: 07881 807719
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GROUP
Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture
WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call the team on 020 3841 7376
Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/
81 / hji.co.uk
INSPIRATION
Life Through a Lens
T The wedge “In 1974 whilst I was at Vidal Sassoon, Vidal asked myself and the other directors to do a show in Paris. The now famous wedge was one of my creations for this show!”
T The scrunch “This was created when I was working at John Frieda. I wanted to create a new way of drying hair quickly so took a ball of hair in my hands and dried it with the dryer to create a brand new texture.”
e i b r o S Trevor
The four times British Hairdresser of the Year winner created the iconic wedge haircut while working with Vidal Sassoon and was the Ɯ/01 % &/!/"00"/ 1, /" "&3" + #/,* 1%" 2""+ǽ "/" /" 0&5 ,# %&0 # 3,2/&1" &* $"0 X The wolfman “This look was inspired by punk and went completely against all the rules at the time. Instead of cutting with scissors, I cut with a razor. Instead of drying the hair downwards, I dried it to stand up. I also bleached the ends to enhance a grown-out look.”
S The red image “I created this for the very first show I did in Switzerland. I was told to present six looks, but at the end of the show the models changed into wigs that I’d cut and styled before the show. The 12 looks surprised and impressed the audience so much I got a standing ovation!”
S The chop “Instead of cutting the hair perfectly, I decided to cut the hair into the lengths at random, making me the first hairdresser to create the ‘texturised’ look.” 82 / hji.co.uk
W The wave “I wanted to push the boundaries with this style and combine the old and new. Cutting a blunt bob (which would be today’s modern bob) I created a wave in the front, using an old technique from the 1930s.”
Premium Quality Gently processed, expertly blended, long lasting, no damage, traceable, soft Virgin Remy hair Ethically Sourced We only source 100% Virgin Remy hair directly from donations made to Indian temples Social BeneďŹ ts Indian temples use the proceeds of the hair sale to support local charitable causes Blended by Hand Our hair extensions are handmade and expertly blended strand by strand Made in Italy Fully respecting human rights, local traditions and ethical values Beauty and Self-care Empowering women who dream of beauty, conďŹ dence, health and integrity
World leading ethical hair extensions www.greatlengthshair.co.uk