Hairdressers Journal January 2019

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USE

Try this look on you Get the Style My Hair app. TO PROTECT & STRENGTHEN YOUR HAIR DURING PRE-LIGHTENING


ALEXA CHUNG

BAL AYAGE

AMBRÉ

M U LT I -TO N A L S E RV I C E BY T H E U N I Q U E O I L C O L O U R*. *By L’Oréal Professionnel


CONTENTS

January 2019 News News 06 Industry Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

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Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels

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HJ Live London Preview Discover who will be performing on stage next month

Business

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Retain Star Talent Liz McKeon shares her top tips for retaining key members of staff

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Business Excellence HJ’s Business Director of the Year Janet Maitland shares the secret to her success

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You’re Hired! Find out what employers are really looking for in an interview

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Long Hair Loyalty Cos Sakkas explains how to keep your long haired clients coming back for more Less is More Phil Smith on the benefits of opening a not for profit salon

HOOKER & YOUNG

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RUSH

New Year, New You Discover the power of a makeover consultation

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Features

Regulars

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Subs Offer Subscribe and win a Kinky Muk Curls+ kit

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The Hot List The products to stock this month

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Interiors The eclectic style of Hari’s on Fulham Road

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Careers Siobhan Jones on going from stage school to the salon floor

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Life Through a Lens Keith Harris’s careerdefining images

The Essential Dates for 2019 This year’s awards and events

Inspiration

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HJ Interview Sally Brooks on being the British Hairdresser of the Year

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Fashion British Hairdresser of the Year collection, three British nominee collections and three exclusive fashion collections 4 / hji.co.uk


EDITOR’S LETTER

IRDRESSE

RS

74 WELLA

A HARI’S H

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7360

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Managing Director Mark Moloney

Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7363

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7369

We l co m e

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7377

A

re you ready to say hello to your most profitable and successful year so far? In this issue we’ve compiled everything you need to get your professional year started with a bang. Our New Year, New Consultation feature on page 20 explains how to tap into your clients’ wish to transform themselves with an endless list of New Year resolutions. There’s a sneak peek into the creative mind of HJ’s British Hairdresser of the Year 2018 sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional Sally Brooks, on page 31. Plus, HJ’s Business Director of the Year, Janet Maitland, shares her insights into running a successful business for over 40 years on page 18. We’ve also listed the industry events, awards and competitions that could take your career to the next level in a cut-out-and-keep guide on page 28. Finally, if 2019 is the year you want to find a new role, some of the UK’s biggest salon chains explain what they look for in prospective employees in our Are you Ready for Your Next Interview? article on page 21. We hope you enjoy our first issue of 2019 and we’d love for you to get in touch to tell us what you’d like to see in print and online this year. Happy New Year to you all!

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7366

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk ∞ 0203 841 7376 Event Manager Sharon Webb sharon@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7374 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk∞ 020 3728 9062

On the cover: Hair: Sally Brooks Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Ann Shore Photography: Jenny Hands 5 / hji.co.uk

Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk ∞ 020 7351 0536


INDUSTRY NEWS Sally’s and Salon Services organised fundraising for The Hairdressers’ Charity last month. The seasonal events included raffles, cake sales and a ‘Spread the Sparkle Day’ with retail teams competing to be the most sparkly store. A spokesperson for The Hairdressers’ Charity said: “The Hairdressers’ Charity is a lifeline to some hairdressers and it is only with the help of our sponsors that we are able to continue our work for the wellbeing of our industry.” The Hairdressers’ Charity is dedicated to helping hairdressers in need. It provides financial assistance and support for anyone in the industry who has fallen upon hard times. For more information or to donate go to thehairdresserscharity.org.

Alan Howard and Joico Conference The Alan Howard Joico Select Account Conference took place in Liverpool last month to provide pearls of wisdom from inspirational people in the industry. The event featured a mix of practical and creative sessions. For example, balayage expert Jack Howard gave a session about how he’s developed his skills to build his profile. The winners of the conference awards included Pickles & Co for the creativity award, Gabrielle Connolly for junior of the year and Spectrum One for hairdressing business of the year.

SHUTTERSTOCK

A Month of Fundraising

Living Coral is Pantone Colour of the Year 2019 The 2019 Pantone Colour of the Year was revealed last month as Living Coral. The shade is described as embracing warmth and nourishment to provide comfort and buoyancy in a shifting environment. Pantone Color Institute’s executive director Leatrice Eiseman said: “Colour is an equalising lens through which we experience our natural and digital realities, and this is particularly true for Living Coral.” Three hair industry experts share how the colour can be translated in the salon... • “I would use the golden undertone in this colour to add a rose gold expensive feel for a client who wants something a bit different. This isn’t going to be for everyone, but it is something all hairdressers can play with, adding richness or just a hue. I can see this being diluted down to create a beautiful pastel or glossing on top of golden colours to give that must-have rose gold.” Paul Watts, Joico European Color Design team member

• “When Pantone release the Colour of the Year it is our job to make it look expensive – the colour must never overpower the client. By diluting or intensifying the tone we can create a range of playful brights to soft shimmers, making bespoke colour that is wearable and suitable for all ages. Living Coral gives colourists an endless palette to play with. The lighter the canvas, the truer the coral result. Add yellow for a vivid statement and a true Living Coral effect.” Grace Dalgleish, Brooks & Brooks • “This shade is a breath of fresh air and will be a huge trend within the hairdressing industry. It’s a colour that can be interpreted in many different ways and can be used to create new hues. I can see this being a hugely popular request within salons this year, as it can be tailored to each client’s individual skin tone and complexion.” Chris Williams, Rush international colour director

Student Looks at Iconic White Show T

he Central Saint Martins White Show, which is supported by L’Oréal Professionnel took place last month with Richard Phillipart providing the vision and styling for the models’ hair. The show offers students the chance to showcase their creativity and the partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel gives ID artists the opportunity to work backstage at the show. Richard’s inspiration was based on the show being a baptism for the students as they start their fashion designer journey. He used a wet-look texture to make the models appear as if they had just emerged from water.

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NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

The Rising Stars of 2019

Pinterest’s Hair Trend Predictions

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has announced who will be part of its 2019 mentoring programmes. The 2019 FAME Team (pictured right) will be led by Nick Irwin and will include Ashley Cockrell, Lora Griffin, Tania Faenza and Alastair Jubbs. The inaugural Barber Project Team will be led by Edward Hemmings and will include Ainsley Brown, Luke Hawkins, Portia McVinnie, Sarah Morrissey, Jack Robin-Williams, Blayre Turnbull and Rob White. The ClubStar Art Team for those aged 25 and under is led by Simon Tuckwell. It includes Jemma Clemas, Ciara Darcy, Eloise Dudley, Georgina Kemnitz-Pryor, Stuart Kimber, April Mash, India Sparacia and Sophia Tsilidis. The Project X Team is described as the finishing

The Pinterest 100 is a list of trends based on the searches made on its website. Here are the three hair trends your clients will be presenting to you in your salon in 2019:

school and attracts experienced members from Fellowship salons. It will be led by Kai Wan. The team will include: Dani Ball, Zara Clelland, Krysia Eddery, Harlee Gresty, Janene Hawkins, Clare Heatherill, Charlotte Johnson, Dan Law, Phillipa Lee, Emma Male, Rory Mason and Scott Musgrove.

The Colour Project Team, which is focused solely on colour will be led by Paul Dennison and will include Georgia Bell, Poppy DevineSmith, Kelsey Franklin, Hannah Godden, Harriet Greenwood, Rebecca Hill, Marlene Lamont, Ciara McNamee, Ivan Montoya, Joanne Roe, Maarja Roots and Lea Shaw.

Grey area Clients are ready to embrace grey, whether that’s turning grey naturally or dying their hair. Searches for ‘grey hair’ were up by 879% in 2018.

Edward Hemmings is New Face of MHD

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Awards T he Fellowship for British Hairdressing Awards, honoured members of the British hairdressing industry last month. The Fellow with Honours awards were given to Jo Martin, Chris Williams, Simon Tuckwell, Peter Belcher, Rick Roberts and Nick Irwin with Debbie Gee receiving the award for Fellow with Distinction. The Individual Salon of the Year was awarded to Melissa Timperley and Salon Group of the Year was given to Medusa. Jon Chapman was named the Unsung Hero and Marc Antoni salons received the Charity Award. Angelo Seminara picked up the Patron’s Award and Russell Eaton received the Lifetime Achievement award (pictured above right). Finally, the Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year award was given to Rush’s Tina Farey (pictured above left).

Edward Hemmings of Alan d Hairdressing Education is the new global ambassador of MHD, the training resource company for hairdressers and barbers. Edward said MHD uses the latest technology to provide hairdressing education from acclaimed educators to colleges, businesses and individuals around the world. MHD’s managing director Mark Butcher added: “With his illustrious career and belief in innovation, he’s the perfect choice to bring MHD to new audiences internationally.”

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Fringe benefits Searches for baby bangs and micro fringes were up by 51%, which suggests clients are looking for images to show to you in the salon before getting the chop!

Lilac love Pinterest searches for lilac hair shot up by a whopping 1077% so stay ahead of the curve by including this colour in upcoming collections and lookbooks.


SPONSORED BRANDS

SALON AQUAFLOW STARTS 2019 AS PRODUCT OF THE YEAR he Salon Aquaflow Hot Water T System is the reigning Salon Hot Water System of the Year after

NEW CONSULTATION APP FOR HAIR SALONS Software company Timely has developed a consultation app for hair salons called Consult for Hair Salons. It helps salons to protect themselves from the rise of defamatory posts on social media after a client gets home and decides they don’t like the outcome of their hair appointment. For a small business like a high street hair salon receiving a single negative online post can be extremely difficult to rectify. The Consult for Hair Salons app provides clients with a care form to complete that captures the client’s

expectations for the appointment and hair service from the start. The app gives stylists the opportunity to check that both the client and stylist are agreed on the service and the desired outcome beforehand. Finally, the app offers stylists the protection of receiving an after-service sign-off where the client is asked to sign a form before leaving the salon to confirm they are happy with the service they received during their appointment. For more information about the new Consult for Hair Salons app go to gettimely.com.

New Product for Thinning Hair Clients he UK’s first vegan, T vegetarian and halal approved hair supplement is looking to partner with professional hair salons. Grow by Hair Gain was developed by Lucy Palmer who suffered post-partum hair loss after giving birth. The supplement has already received consumer press coverage for delivering visible results. It is designed to promote visibly thicker and stronger

hair in one month. Containing an exclusive ingredient called AnaGain that is derived from the organic pea shoot, combined with vitamins and minerals, it gives your clients the perfect formula for gorgeous and healthy hair from within. To find out how to stock Grow by Hair Gain in your hair salon and to find out more information visit hairgainnow.com or email enquiries@hairgainnow.com. 8 / hji.co.uk

receiving the title at the Heating and Ventilation Awards. It is compliant with EU and UK regulations and features a ‘C’ energy rating, the latest smart immersions, an anti-legionella cycle and dry heat protection. The system has a supply of hot and cold water, equal pressure and temperature to all basins and a new for 2019 Autoboost system. It has ultralow heat loss and fits nearly anywhere. Prices start from £645+VAT with free delivery. Call 01270 522 420 or go to salonaquaflow. co.uk for more information.

REVOLUTIONISE TRAINING WITH MHD’S PLAYLIST HD, the online training M resource for hairdressers and barbers has launched new Playlist technology which gives users the power to create bespoke learning programmes. MHD’s 500+ library has all of the tutorials you need. Drop them into Playlist to create a bespoke training programme. MHD Productions managing director Mark Butcher said: “Playlist is as easy as using Apple Music, except you are adding tutorials rather than songs.” He added: “Playlist gives educators the power to complement curriculums while boosting outcomes and assessment results. Salon owners can motivate the team, fill skills gaps and increase profitability.” Visit myhairdressers.com to claim your exclusive 48-hour free trial.



Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

t’s time to get digital! HJ is kicking off the new year with all things digital Isalon to ensure you are up to speed with how to market your skills and your in the best way possible. Every weekday between 14 and 25 January we will publish articles that will help you to boost your online and social media prowess. Visit hji.co.uk/c/digital

We took our exclusive wages survey in association with the NHF online to see how you feel about your wages and see how this compares with the results from the survey. On Facebook a whopping 76% of those who voted in the poll said they felt like they weren’t being paid enough. Head to our Facebook page to join the discussion.

ELLA BYWORTH

Are you paid enough?

10 / hji.co.uk

SHUTTERSTOCK

Let’s get Digital


@hji

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

@hjinteractive

Social Shout Out

@jordannacobella

Relive the Night

I love Jordanna’s work and the fact that she is always playing around with styling and accessories! Akesha, HJ digital editor

We still cannot get over the magic that was HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. You can relive the whole night on our YouTube channel.

@goldsworthyshair I’m swooning over the @goldsworthyshair grid, which is filled with glossy wearable looks, plus they’ve added their logo to every post, which is very savvy! Laura, HJ editor

Free Education!

@caroline_schmitt

Have you seen the stunning educational videos produced by Hairtribe.tv? If you have, you’ll know how exciting it is that HJ has a free taster of the amazing work they have to offer. The introductory promotion is available exclusively to HJ readers when you search for Hairtribe on hji.co.uk. 11 / hji.co.uk

I adore Caroline at Trevor Sorbie’s feed. Her hair work is both intricate and effortless, it’s breathtakingly beautiful. Charlotte, HJ content editor


W h o to se e at H J Li ve Lo n d on 20 19 This year's talented stage artists explain why you won’t want to miss the HJ Stage, in association with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and HJ Men Stage, in association with Wahl, on 24-25 February at London’s ExCeL...

Go to hjlive.co.uk/ freetickets to register for your free ticket!

HJ Stage in association with the

HJ Men Stage in association with Wahl

Fellowship for British Hairdressing

“Being seen by a huge section of the industry is invaluable. Everyone knows that HJ Live puts the best talent on their stages. For the Outline Creative Team it’s important for us to show hairdressing professionals, as well as barbers, our work as we like to bridge the gap between the two industries.” Myles Lewis, Outline Creative Team

"HJ Live London attracts some of the most influential names in the industry and it’s an honour to be invited to perform alongside such talent.” Jonny Engstrom, Guy Kremer Art Team

“It’s great to perform on stage with like-minded professionals who represent the best talent in the industry and to be able to share our knowledge and skills.” Cos Sakkas, Toni & Guy

“The audience at the show aren’t afraid to ask questions. It’s a chance for us to share the tips and tricks we’ve learned over the years and I never tire of the buzz of being around so many other creative people.’ Rudi Rizzo, Sanrizz Academy Team

“Nothing beats going on stage, bringing creations to life and demonstrating something new.” Luke Pluckrose, Saks Art Team

‘There’s passion and creativity everywhere you look at the show and it’s the perfect way to keep on top of everything that’s happening in the industry – I always come away inspired and full of ideas.’ Andrew Jose

“HJ Live London is a fantastic event. We use it to unveil our latest collections and take the audience through the techniques used to create the overall finished looks. The creativity and inspiration at the event is incredible and we are proud to be a part of it.” Rush Art Team

"HJ Live is for everyone whatever stage you are in your hairdressing or barbering career. Being on stage gives you a chance to inspire those that are starting out but you also

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get the chance to learn from your peers." Richard Ong, OB Barbers “I really enjoy networking at HJ Live. My YouTube channel encourages me to introduce myself to others in the industry to create content." Ross Charles “Performing gives me and my colleagues a platform to showcase our skills and talk about the Lions Barber Collective which gives guidance on issues around mental health.” Connor Evans, Lions Barber Collective ambassador “I love being a part of the HJ Live shows as it gives me an amazing platform to showcase my work and interact with hairdressers from all over the UK and beyond.” Jonathan Andrew




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BUSINESS

How to Keep

Your Star Talent After you put in the time, effort and investment to hire the best employees possible, you need to keep them satisfied. Here are Liz McKeon’s top five strategies for keeping hold of the right team for your business

know exactly who they are and that you value their contribution to your company. Ask for all of your employee’s input when compiling your company’s rules or changes that need to be made on the salon floor and encourage your team to set goals. Make your expectations clear 2 Explain your expectations and goals for individual employees. Job descriptions clarify what is required of employees, but it is crucial that you communicate any changes directly, clearly and regularly. Your best employees will want to please you, but to do that, they will need to know what is required of them and how to go above and beyond.

3

Create an open work environment Give feedback and really listen with empathy to the concerns of your employees. Chance meetings in the staff room where social greetings are exchanged are good, but do not take the place of actually sitting down faceto-face and discussing work-related problems. Always listen to new ideas and accept suggestions for problem solving. Be available and open when your employees ask for guidance.

Never let rumours take over – keep your top talent informed about what is happening within your salon.

4

Provide opportunities to learn Let your employees know there is room for them to grow in your salon and progress in their careers. Give challenging and stimulating work and tap into an individual’s passion as this will allow them to focus their time and energy on exciting projects they can enjoy. Always let your team members know what career development plans you may have for them and what opportunities are available for them to grow within the salon.

Reward good work 5 Monetary bonuses are always well-received, but recognition of a job well done goes a long way to creating good will and loyalty. Recognition needs to be specific so saying ‘good job’ is acceptable, but saying ‘good job with that colour correction’ is better. In order to retain talent, you must make your team feel appreciated and respected. Everyone needs to feel their contributions to your business are important. Any feedback or praise you provide needs to be sincere.

4Qb¼[ [\IЄ ZM\MV\QWV \QX[ It is easier and more efficient to retain good staff than to recruit new members of the team. There are three categories to consider for motivating people: power, achievement and relationships. Power motivated employees: These employees love being in charge. They have a sense of control over the salon and they enjoy making decisions and stepping up to difficult tasks. Achievement motivated employees: These types of employees are excited by major goals. They enjoy working hard and feel a rush of success when they achieve set targets. Relationship motivated employees: These employees want everyone to get along. They dislike and avoid conflict, want to be liked and respected and will help to keep the team together.

SHUTTERSTOCK

/M\ \W SVW_ aW]Z [\IЄ 1 Always greet people by their name, letting them know that you

4Qb 5K3MWV is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com. 17 / hji.co.uk


Meet the Business Director The winner of HJ’s Business Director of the Year award at the British Hairdressing Business Awards, Janet Maitland shares the secret behind her long-term success

Janet’s advice to future entrants How did it feel to win? I started out in hairdressing over 40 years ago and I’ve dedicated my life to it so it was incredible to receive that recognition. I’ve experienced many aspects of hairdressing from education and business to travel and working around the world. The interview with the judging panel was really exciting for me as it gave me the chance to explain why I’ve made certain decisions and how I’ve moved my business forward. It was wonderful to speak to a panel who understood and appreciated how much I cared about my business.

Give yourself time to think about what the judges will be looking for and to assemble all of the information you need. The best piece of advice I can offer is don’t give up. I entered a few years ago and didn’t get through so always keep hold of previous entries and reflect on them to see how your business might have changed and build on that. You need to believe that it can happen. Even though I’ve entered twice, I was still completely stunned when they called out my name on the night!

Why do you think you won? I care about my staff and we have great staff retention. I own my four properties so I have more money to pay my staff better wages, which is one of the reasons why my staff are extremely loyal to the business. We’ve been open since 1979 so the judges were pleased with the longevity of my business. We’ve opened salons where we can give young people jobs and training. The judges were also impressed that I’m giving young people from a village outside of Durham the opportunity to travel to London and be part of an art team.

believe in to recruiting the right staff. Your team also need to share your ethos and business philosophy. I’ve had people working with me since 1979 because we all believe in having the same working culture and share the same beliefs. It’s also about educating your team and letting them know that you care about them. All of my staff can use telephone counselling 24/7 and have the option to have six free one-to-one counselling sessions, which are all paid for by the company. I’ll never find out who’s used the facility, but they know at induction that if they need help with any aspect of their lives, they can access the helpline and can speak to professionally trained counsellors.

What’s the secret to running a successful salon? You need to care about every aspect of the business, from stocking quality products that you and the team

?PI\ IZM \PM JMVMÅ\[ WN JMQVO \PM Business Director of the Year? Two excellent ex-members of staff who left the salon to try out different ventures got back in touch with me

when they heard I’d won the award. It was an opportunity for them to reach out to me and congratulate me on the award. This kick-started a conversation with both of them about how they were getting on and now they’re both back at the salon and our relationship is stronger than ever. This was a huge plus for me because I care deeply about both of them and I’m so happy to have them back in the team. What have you learned during your career so far? I’ve learned how to be happy every day with my business and my team, which creates a positive vibe for everyone. You need to enjoy every day because this is your life so why dwell on things that need to be adjusted or put right. This can be done but you must remember to be happy about all of the wonderful aspects of hairdressing, the people, the training, the products – the whole industry is wonderful!

For more information about how to enter go to hji.co.uk/hjs-british-hairdressing-business-awards 18 / hji.co.uk


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

WELLA HACKS: BE MORE TIME-EFFICIENT

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Wella Professionals educators Fergal Doyle, Sacha Stephens, Hayley Austin, Katie Howarth and Paul Fensome share time-saving tips and reveal how to generate extra revenue using Koleston Perfect with ME+

Take control of your time 1 Print out your schedule for the day and have everything you need clean and ready for your first appointment. Check stock levels the day before and if there is a specific product or colour you know you will need for a certain client, make sure you have it available. If there is an appointment booked for a technical service and you haven’t done a consultation before, call the client to get an idea of what they want so when they come into the salon you are prepared. It’s useful to plan each client’s individual journey in your salon. This will avoid wasting precious time on long drawn out consultations as you will have an end goal and will take control of each service. It will create stronger loyalty, but you will still deliver a transformation for your client at every visit. Enjoy the benefits 2 Time efficiency will be attractive to your clients and will help to grow your business. As a society, we are cash rich and time poor. Clients will return more frequently to your salon if they know they are not spending too much of their free time in the chair and appointments will be less of a chore if they are quick. Time efficiency will lead to the smooth running of your day, plus you will be less stressed, which will benefit you and your clients. Taking the time to listen to your client’s needs and providing

a thorough consultation means you can discuss add-on services such as toners, glossing, treatments and retail products. You will also be able to advise your clients on their hair care needs and how to maintain the look you are creating for them at home. Generate extra revenue 3 The more clients you serve in a day, the more money you will generate. It’s important to highlight the professional nature of the services you are performing on your clients to ensure they don’t feel short changed or leave the salon thinking they could do the same service themselves at home. You could put together a yearly plan for each of your clients with four to five big services a year that will take more time for lightening and blending with a longer appointment time and a higher price. This will be counterbalanced by in-between appointments for toning or refreshing with shorter appointments at a lower price. This means your clients will still value your professionalism and will appreciate the benefit of having some convenient appointments as well as some that will allow them to relax and enjoy their time in your salon chair.

#AskForWella wella.co.uk

WellaUK

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How can Koleston Perfect with ME+ help? “In just 10 minutes you can refresh a client’s colour, enhancing tone and shine. This means your client will feel great without the huge time commitment. Plus, the speedy glossing service, which can be as quick as five minutes can be added to an existing styling service. This will save time compared to other refreshing services. The new formula has an improved consistency and easy mixing ratios and with Pure Balance Technology, you can trust in the pure colour results.”


SHUTTERSTOCK

BUSINESS

New Year, New Consultation Invite your clients for a ‘New Year, New You’ appointment to get their year going with a bang and to kick-start your business for 2019, suggests salon business consultant Penny Etheridge he New Year is the ideal time to offer your clients ‘New Year, New You’ consultations. Schedule 20-minute appointments so you and your team can give your clients a full consultation. This appointment does not have to be added to a client’s first service of 2019. In fact, a lot can be said for offering it as a separate free service for all of your existing clients. The average UK cut and colour client spends more than £350 per year looking after their hair. This complimentary service could determine whether your client comes back to you in 2019 or decides to start the year somewhere else.

T

Points to remember When booking the appointments encourage clients to bring photos of when they’ve liked their hair and images of their favourite hair looks and colours. It’s important your clients understand photos are a useful tool for transforming their look. The consultation appointment does not have to take place at a formal

styling station. The real point of difference for this type of consultation is the appointment is a discussion between the hairdresser and a client, which is not followed by a physical service. Feel free to engage with one another in a different and perhaps more comfortable setting. You could even set up a specialised consultation space within your salon with a sofa to ensure your client feels relaxed. Within the consultation appointment it will be useful to find out any events the client may already have in place for 2019. This could be a wedding, milestone birthday or a holiday. Ask for vital information, including the dates and locations of these events to ensure you can offer the right advice and deliver appropriate hair services at these key times. This is your opportunity to understand your client’s thoughts, needs and motives for the year. By providing the relevant advice based on what your client says will improve your chances of retaining their loyalty for the whole year. 20 / hji.co.uk

The personalised year planner Present a personalised year planner to each ‘New Year, New You’ consultation client at the end of their appointment detailing all of the appropriate services you are recommending for the year. Finally, record all of this information in your software system and where possible, schedule the appointments your client has agreed to booking in advance. It would also be extremely useful to record ‘gentle reminders’ for each client when appropriate services need to be booked either using your software facility or manually recording these dates on your relevant appointment pages to ensure your client sticks to their new 2019 hair transformation plan.

Penny Etheridge is a business coach and lecturer with over 30 years experience in the industry. She runs Radiant Hair & Beauty Consultancy. For more information go to radiant hairandbeautyconsultancy.com.


BUSINESS

Are You Ready for Your Next Interview?

SHUTTERSTOCK

HJ speaks to three of the UK’s salon chains to discover what future employers really want to see from prospective employees

Lisa Wheatcroft, people director, Rush Hair & Beauty

What qualities do you look for in a candidate? We look for individuals who are driven. We place a big focus on customer service so good people skills are essential. It is also important to have some business knowledge and to be engaged in growing your column and furthering your career with us. How should a portfolio be presented? A digital portfolio on an iPad or tablet with an Instagram page or YouTube channel is preferred. However, if someone has taken the time to put together a physical portfolio, I wouldn’t discredit that.

Michelle Shergill, Saks Hair and Beauty, West Bridgford

Do you ask any trick questions during an interview? I ask questions such as ‘what would your best friend tell me about you?’ or ‘have you ever stolen a pen from work?’ I am looking to see if they remain positive in the face of a challenge. Do you have any examples of a bad interview? My most shocking interview was when a stylist told me the interview must end immediately as she had an electronic tag on her ankle and had to get back home in time for her curfew.

Tomm Bucknell, director of seanhanna Putney and general manager of seanhanna salons What should candidates wear to an interview? I would recommend a smart casual dress code. Looking presentable is key as you will be speaking to customers all the time and what you wear will reflect who you are as a stylist. I would also recommend trying to show off your creativity through your interview outfit – wear a bright colour if that’s your personal style. How do you like to be greeted at the start of an interview? With a firm handshake and a smile.

Do you have a pet peeve? A candidate who isn't prepared. It is crucial that as a potential employee you know Rush and understand the nature of our business and heritage.

Do you have a pet peeve? When a candidate tells me they can’t sell retail hair products to clients. It means they are only skilled to do half of their job and customers will struggle to maintain their hair at home between visits.

Do you have any examples of a bad interview? I was very nervous during the first interview I ever had, and this came across in my answers. I always recommend practising your interview skills with someone else beforehand to help you consider your answers.

Do you have any examples of a bad interview? We’ve had candidates who are dressed to go to a party rather than an interview. It is also disappointing when a candidate answers a question with ‘I don’t know’.

What is the interview process at Saks? Candidates have a telephone interview, a face-to-face interview and a skills trade test followed by shadowing a member of the team.

Do you have a pet peeve? Lateness – we advise candidates to arrive at least 10 minutes before their interview time which gives them a chance to look around the salon and speak to the team.

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BUSINESS

Do your Long Haired Clients Spend Enough? Clients with long hair often leave longer between salon appointments. Cos Sakkas, Toni & Guy’s international creative director suggests seven ways to encourage these clients to visit your salon more often and invest more in their hair HAIR: COS SAKKAS

Regular trims 1 Encourage clients with long hair to book in for regular trims. Nothing makes hair look less healthy and unglamorous than split ends and the only real cure is to trim them off. Conditioning treatments 2 When you have a long haired client in your chair, talk to them about all of the treatments your salon offers to ensure their long locks stay looking fabulous. Long hair often needs some extra hydration and nourishment, so recommend regular deep conditioning treatments every four weeks.

“Nothing adds interest to a long hair style more than some creative colour placement.”

Creative colour placement 3 Talk to long haired clients about colour. Nothing adds interest to a long hair style more than some creative colour placement and once they become a loyal colour client the frequency of visits should increase, as well as their average spend. Styling products 4 Without the right styling products long hair can look lifeless. Make recommendations for products that will enable long haired clients to experiment with different styles. For example, a mousse for voluminous looks, sea-salt spray for natural beachy waves or shine spray for a high-gloss finish. Your client will end up loving their hair even more and your salon will enjoy the extra profits. Homecare regimes 5 Long hair often needs extra care between appointments to stop it looking dull and lacklustre. Recommend a range of homecare products to long haired clients so they can establish a pampering regime. This could include conditioning masks, hair oils and hydrating shampoos and conditioners.

they are going out that night, suggest an understated but cool hair up. This shows them what else can be done with their hair and introduces them to another service they may not have considered before. The first time you do it offer it as a complimentary service and then another evening they will think of you and pay to look fabulous for their big night out.

Updos for a big occasion Regular tweaks 6 Offer an updo option for clients 7 It’s all about the detail with with long hair. For instance, if a client long locks. Small changes make all visits in the evening and you know

the difference, whether it’s fringe 22 / hji.co.uk

tweaks or styling tweaks, to make the client understand it’s not just a one-length trim. Small elements can make them on-trend for that season. Talk them through the haircut and explain what you are doing and why and refer to trends. Hair is like a piece of clothing – a skirt is a skirt, but it’s the small details that make it modern and desirable, whether it is the shape of the pockets or pleats. It’s the same with hair. If you just see it as long hair it will be boring. You need to keep it fresh if you want your long haired clients to come back regularly.


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DATE Hair: Claire Chell and Heather Shaw at Francesco Group Make-up: Becky Hunting Photography: Alex Styles


BUSINESS

Five reasons to become a VW\ NWZ XZWÅ\

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Your work/life balance will improve.

2

No targets will mean better wellbeing for you and your team.

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Award-winning salon owner Phil Smith of Smith England in Salisbury explains why selling off his franchises and opening a not for profit salon was one of the best decisions he’s ever made

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didn’t start off thinking that not for profit was the way forward. It’s definitely something I’ve learnt over time, through experience and enduring difficult times too. But without them I know I wouldn’t have got to the place I am now. My career took off after training with a major salon. It’s here that I found my passion for business as well as hair and where I took my first serious steps into entrepreneurship. It led me to owning and managing 28 salon franchises across the world. I was driven by success and predominantly by monetary success. This time in my life was hard, tiring, exciting, manic and rewarding all at the same time – I loved it.

“I

As my personal life changed and I married and had children I found myself torn between work life and home life. The unbelievably long days grafting no longer merited the success as far as I was concerned. Instead it meant time not spent with my family. One by one I sold the franchises and decided to open my own salon – Smith England in Salisbury. I knew I wanted it to be not for profit from the beginning. I’d entered a new phase of my life and I wanted to have a better work/life balance, which is my first reason for becoming not for profit. Being a not for profit and enforcing a ‘no target’ policy in the salon has improved the state of mind and wellbeing of 26 / hji.co.uk

You know exactly what money comes in and out of the salon. It’s good for the soul!

myself and my team. Our passion and dedication remain the same but the sense of competition and anxiety over targets has gone. 0MTXQVO \PM KWUU]VQ\a We love to do as much as we can for the local community. Being not for profit allows us to financially give back to those that support the success of our business. It also means I know exactly what money is coming in and out of the salon, which enables a peaceful state of mind. It frees up space to think, work smarter and more creatively. Finally, it’s good for the soul. I’m happy and positive and this translates to the salon team too. I have time with my family and the opportunity to support fully my team and community in a way they can really appreciate. People never forget the way you make them feel – it’s why I love hairdressing and it’s why I love being not for profit. You can make a difference that matters.


SUBSCRIBE

Subscribe this month and win Kinky Muk Curls+ Kit by Aussie Brand Muk Haircare Australia’s leading independent hair brand Muk Haircare prides itself on being PETA-approved and cruelty-free. The bespoke range is the perfect way to enhance your clients’ curls and waves, whether they are natural or heat-generated. The range features three products that define and infuse curly hair with much-needed moisture. The Kinky Muk Curl Leave-in Moisturiser helps to combat frizz by infusing moisture into the hair’s shaft. It can be used in conjunction with the Kinky Muk Curl Amplifier which can be applied to freshly shampooed hair and dried with a diffuser to keep curls defined and hydrated. The Extra-Hold Curl Amplifier defines more unruly curls. Ten new subscribers will have the chance to win the entire Muk Haircare Kinky Muk Curl range worth £35.

Subscribe to Hairdressers Journal International and quote reference HJIJAN For more information on Muk Haircare visit mukhairuk.com

Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates UK: one year print £49+VAT, one year tablet £26+VAT, one year print and tablet £66+VAT. For overseas rates visit www.hjsubs.co.uk Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65602 January 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Wyndeham, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

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AWARDS AND EVENTS

THE ESSENTIAL DATES FOR 2019 Your cut-out-and-keep guide to the industry’s biggest awards and competitions

April

May

June

2 January: L’Oréal Colour Trophy entry opens

4 February: Wella Xposure entry closes

1 March: American Crew All-Stars Challenge entry closes

NHF Business Awards entry opens

1, 2, 3 May: Wella Xposure regional heats continue

HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards entry closes

13, 14, 20, 21 May: Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK regional heats

HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional entry closes

19 May: American Crew All-Stars Challenge global final in New York, USA

3 June: L’Oréal Colour Trophy UK Final

Open now: American Crew All-Stars Challenge

Open now: Alternative Hair Show International Visionary Award Open now: Wella Xposure

HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards entry opens HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional entry opens

15 March: Wella Xposure photographic results announced 20 March: Wella Professionals TrendVision Award entry closes

31 March: The FHA UK Freelance Awards entry closes

American Crew All-Stars Challenge UK final

29 April: Wella Xposure regional heats

APRIL

Open now: Goldwell Color Zoom

18 February: L’Oréal Colour Trophy entry closes

MARCH

JANUARY

Open now: The FHA UK Freelance Awards

31 May: Goldwell Color Zoom entry closes

JUNE

March

MAY

February

FEBRUARY

January

3 June: Wella Xposure UK final 9 June: The FHA UK Freelance Awards

TIGI Inspirational Youth Competition entry opens

The awards in a nutshell

Alternative Hair Show International Visionary Award This is an international competition to celebrate the new generation of talent in hairdressing and showcase the stars of tomorrow at the annual Alternative Hair Show. All qualified hairdressers can enter – there are three categories: Men’s, Cut and Colour and AvantGarde. The entry must include over 50 words on the inspiration and motivation behind each image. More info: alternativehair.org

American Crew All-Stars Challenge An international photographic contest where entrants create a style

that represents the American Crew man using the brand’s products. The top 15 global finalists will attend the 2019 American Crew All-Stars Challenge in New York, USA, where they will compete to become the next American Crew 2018-2019 All-Stars Challenge global champion. More info: americancrew.com/ allstarchallenge

Fellowship for British Hairdressing Fellowship Award Announced at the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Luncheon 2019, any Fellowship member can enter the Fellowship Award’s 11 categories. More info: fellowshiphair.com 28 / hji.co.uk

FHA Freelance Awards Open to every self-employed hairdresser in the UK, the focus of the awards is on ‘snap and send’ shots rather than large production photoshoots. More info: thefha.org.uk

Goldwell ColorZoom Based on the current Goldwell Remix collection competitors must interpret the trend in their photoshoot entry. The competition is open to Goldwell salons and there are three categories to choose from – New Talent, Creative and Partner. More info: goldwell.co.uk/colorzoom-2019


AWARDS AND EVENTS

NHF Business Awards entry closes

AUGUST

JULY

19 August: Alternative Hair Show International Visionary Award entry closes

HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional There are 15 categories to choose from, including regional and specialist categories. Entrants must submit four photographs from a collection shot within the past 12 months. More info: Call 020 3841 7365, email becca@hji.co.uk or visit hji.co.uk

HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards There are 17 cateogories to choose from whether you’re an inspiring manager, a stand-out junior or an innovative technology company. More info: Call 020 3841 7365, email becca@hji.co.uk or visit hji.co.uk

HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards 29 September: Goldwell Global Zoom in Vienna 30 September: Wella TrendVision Award Grand Final

November

December

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Fellowship Award entry closes

TIGI Inspirational Youth Live Show

2 December: The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Luncheon and Fellowship Award

6 October: Alternative Hair Show International Visionary Award

L’Oréal Colour Trophy A live hairdressing competition that showcases fashion-led hair looks with four categories to choose from. More info: lorealcolourtrophy.com

NHF Business Awards The National Hairdressers Federation celebrates the best in the hairdressing, barbering and beauty business. This year’s awards ceremony will be in London. More info: nhf.info/events/ competitions/nhf-business-awards

TIGI Inspirational Youth Competition Attend a boot camp guided by 29 / hji.co.uk

17 November: NHF Business Awards

25 November: HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional

DECEMBER

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Fellowship Award entry opens

October

NOVEMBER

Goldwell Color Zoom UK Final

September

OCTOBER

August

SEPTEMBER

July

the TIGI international creative team with the chance to appear at the finale show. More info: Email uk.inspirationalyouth@tigi.com

Wella Professionals TrendVision Award A contest that is complemented by a digital and face-to-face mentoring programme at every stage. More info: wella.co.uk/trendvision

Wella Professionals Xposure A nationwide hairdressing competition solely aimed at hairdressing students with less than five years’ experience. More info: wellaxposure.com


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HJ EXCLUSIVE:

Meet the British Hairdresser of the Year 2018 Sally Brooks tells HJ how she plans to use her second win to promote the UK hairdressing industry and reveals how to create an award-winning collection How did it feel to win for a second time this year? Wowzers – I was a bit blown away really. I’m super happy to have won again this year and I am super-happy to win with my Simplicity collection. What did you learn from being British Hairdresser of the Year in 2017? It’s great to have the recognition of the title, but I strongly believe that what makes this industry unique is the diversity of the hairdressers in it. It’s so important to represent our industry in the right manner and allow the next generation to find their platform and become their own artists. What were the benefits of winning the title last year? I have always wanted to give more back to the industry and I’ve used this award to make a documentary that promotes hairdressing as a profession for young people. I will be launching this in January so keep your eyes out and I hope it encourages youngsters to want to become hairdressers in future. I made the one-hour documentary with a friend of mine, Gabriel Maciuca who is a barber and videographer. It’s been really hard work but very rewarding. There are about 20 hairdressers featured in it and I really hope you will all love it. How do you plan to use the title in 2019? I have a little idea that I will be calling on people to help me with so if I call you, please pick up the phone and take my call.

I already have lots of ideas in my head. Lying in bed or asleep is a great time too. Every day in hairdressing is different and it’s why I love my job. It’s what you make of each day and if you make it fun this becomes part of your work. What made your collection stand out this year? I think it’s because Simplicity is a fresh take on a collection and it’s real. What advice would you give to someone hoping to enter this year? Don’t shoot to win – it’s not always about winning but it is about doing something to the best of your abilities. Really think about what it is you want to do and pick a team of people that understands your concept. The more work you put into it before the shoot, the easier the day will be. What will 2019 hold for the UK hairdressing industry? Let’s see what Brexit brings. I think recruitment might need looking at a bit closer. I think it will be an interesting year with more social media fame and more freelance salons opening. I hope we will unite across the industry to ensure the long-term

success and training of youngsters entering the industry to keep our standards high. How can hairdressers help the industry to move forward? We need to support each other and work together to unite the industry because we all do the same thing and that’s hair. One of the most amazing people for me that recognises different skills and talents is Richard Ashforth with his show ‘Noise’. Richard manages to choose so many different styles of hairdressers to stand next to one another on stage and really support what each other is doing. If we were all the same how boring would this industry be? Where do you get your inspiration for creating award-winning collections?

What’s the secret to juggling the creative and business sides of your salon? Time management – when I am in the salon I focus on the salon and the business and I always keep my eyes and ears out for creative ideas outside of the salon. The bus, tube, pub, tv, phone – I capture ideas everywhere I go. This means that when I have a show or a shoot

I’m trusting myself more as I get older. I am happy in my own place and this allows me to be who I am at that time. I love this industry and I want to see it moving forwards (not sideways) and that means daring to do something different, so you have to dig deeper than the top layer.

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SIMPLICITY

Stripped back, clean and fresh


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“This collection is all about the beauty of simplicity with all of the elements working together. The shoot day had a really organic feel as it was about capturing a moment of natural beauty and effortless style. I wanted the hair to breathe. I worked with natural undertones in the hair colour and simple textures that were not overworked to allow each picture to have a beautiful moment of simplicity.� Sally Brooks British Hairdresser of the Year 2018

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Hair: Sally Brooks for Brooks & Brooks Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Ann Shore Photography: Jenny Hands

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SERAPHIC Angelic-style paintings are referenced with shapes and cuts that are pure with a dark twist

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“This collection is a fusion of different cult religions that have strict beliefs. Underneath the uniform is a character who is using f reedom of speech to show her true self. Each image symbolises a deconstructed editorial style with unforced texture, shape and movement. I’ve used light and dark colouration to give a 3D effect. The combination of lighting and mood produces a strong visual contrast.” Darren Ambrose 43 / hji.co.uk


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Hair: Darren Ambrose for D&J Ambrose Make-up: John Christopher Styling: Ann Shore Photography: Jenny Hands

45 / hji.co.uk


24-25 February 2019 | ExCeL London

INSPIRATION AND INNOVATION

Hair Professionals, enjoy over 20 hours of free education on the STAGE & MEN STAGE Sponsored by

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Hair: Joshua Goldsworthy @ Goldsworthy’s Photography: Michael Young Makeup: Kirsten Baillie Styling: Michael Young


A celebration of women who are frivolous, fun and fearless

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“This collection was influenced by strong women f rom around the world who inspire others and embrace individuality.� Gary Hooker and Michael Young

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Hair: Gary Hooker and Michael Young for Hooker & Young Make-up: Megumi Styling: Clare Frith Photography: Jack Eames

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MUSE 2 Unpredictability fuelled by graphic shapes and whimsical optical illusions

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“Def ined modern structures turn their back on gravity while interrupted colour patterns deceive the eye and awaken curiosity. This collection was achieved with revolutionary colour, cutting and styling techniques mixed with innovative thinking and non-compromised detailing. Futuristic and electro-static, sophisticated and feminine, each look is variable in structure, length and colour. The collection shows how art, style and science can combine to excite the mind and please the senses.� Angelo Seminara 57 / hji.co.uk


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Hair: Angelo Seminara Make-up: Laura Dominique Styling: Lotta Aspenberg Photography: Andrew O’Toole

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FASHION

Naturally O rg a n i c Pushing the boundaries with standout looks featuring organic colour

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FASHION

See our iPad edition for inspiring extras

Hair: Organic Colour Systems salon mentors Tracey Burnap, Stefanie Kaufman, Michel Koller Creative direction: Karine Jackson Make-up: Tara Sanger Photography: Magdalena Bieth

“The three salon mentors f rom the Organic Colour Systems Inspired competition have used this collection to push people’s perception of what an organic colour can do. We’ve highlighted the potential of the brand for creating inf inite looks. Colour is the star with linear movement-inspired colour placement, braids and cuts.” Aimee Pardey, hair guru at Organic Colour Systems 61 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Expression Balanced and contrasting shapes and textures 62 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

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FASHION

“We wanted to take you on an expressive journey, where beauty in hair is both balanced and contrasting. Our vision was to create dishevelled, soft, sexy hair that is heavily influenced by the nineties era of fashion.� Sophie Chandler and Michael Rackett for Rush Hair

See our iPad edition for inspiring extras

Hair: Sophie Chandler and Michael Rackett for Rush Hair Make-up: Kelly Mendiola Styling: Magdalena Jacobs Photography: Alessandro Cecchini

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INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER Each month HJ is written to inform, educate and inspire you - delivering exclusive fashion collections, trend and industry news, product information, business advice and features on the issues that affect the industry.

HJ is available in print and on your mobile/tablet with additional content and interactive videos so you can keep up-to-date, wherever you are.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION VISIT WWW.HJI.CO.UK/SUBSCRIBE


INDIVIDUAL INSURANCE FROM £37.50 PER YEAR • £6m Public, Products & Treatment Liability • Hair and Beauty options available • Cover for Nails, Makeup and Spray Tan included • Kit and Equipment cover available • Advanced Treatment options • Teacher Training cover available

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For more information visit www.hjdirect.co.uk or contact our team on 0345 340 3550 or email info@hjdirect.co.uk


FASHION

THE

BEST OF TIMES From date night to desk ‘til dawn, help your clients look glam for every occasion

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FASHION

“My inspiration came f rom what the Saks woman wants. We created desirable, healthy hair looks with a timeless appeal instead of a trend-led collection.” Luke Pluckrose, Saks creative director and head of Art Team

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FASHION

See our iPad edition for inspiring extras

Hair: Saks Art Team Styling: Karl Willett Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Photography: Catherine Harbour

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E R U T U F R U O Y E R E H S BEGIN

nrivalled u r u o n o up Jobs calls ty u a dustries to e in B l g a in n it io c s x e ofes s in these ip HJi and Pr h s n o ti la e auty jobs. r e b d n d a n e a g ir ha knowled ver y best e th u o y bring

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T HE HOT LIST

Brighter blondes

Colour explosion

Get it straight

Neutralise yellow pigments with the Innoluxe Platinum range. The toning shampoo, conditioner and mask are all sulphate and sodium chloride free. From £21

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vibrance Demi-Permanent Hair Colour range can now be mixed as a gel for a quick colour service or a cream for more precise application.

The Dafni Classic is a ceramic straightening brush that heats up in under a minute. It allows clients to achieve a salon-straight style in their own homes. RPP £120

Long-term trend

Blonde ambition

Beachy head

IDHair Elements Xclusive Long Hair Shampoo and Conditioner contains shea butter for moisture and sea buckthorn to protect against free radicals. SRP £13.99

Pureology Strength Cure Best Blonde is a three-step at-home range that helps banish brassy tones and strengthen strands. From £20.50

To create texture reminiscent of a day at the beach, without any tackiness, reach for the lightweight R+Co Sand Castle Dry Texture Crème. £25

How alternative

Hey, sugar

Detangle with ease

The team behind the Alternative Hair Show have introduced two premium collections. Tri-Protein for colour-treated hair and Vitality for dehydrated hair.

milk_shake has improved its Volume Solutions range. It contains a formula made from sugar derivatives which helps to cleanse, condition and strengthen hair.

Hercules Sägemann Roll-ka Comb is designed to glide through hair without snagging thanks to its roller mechanism. It’s ideal for detangling and distributing treatments. £15

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Partied-out hair hero

Neu beginnings

Brush off

Rescue over-styled hair with TIGI Copyright Custom Create Split End Repair Cream. It’s infused with keratin to help seal hair fibres and smooth the cuticle. RRP £18

On average, eight million women in the UK experience hair loss. NEU Hair 4 Women has launched hair replacement systems that offer a non-surgical solution to hair loss.

Kent Curved Vent Brush has a curved, vented chassis that is ideal for blow-drying and 10 rows of boar bristles that smooth, clean and add shine to the hair. RRP £20

Touch of silk

Transformative style

Ring in the changes

The Curlformers by Hairflair Vintage Curl Silk Scarf holds Curlformers in place and can be wrapped around hair to prevent frizz while sleeping. £13.97 plus VAT

L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.ART Transformer Lotion is a liquid to paste styler and can be used on wet hair as a blow-dry lotion or on dry hair as a styling paste. RRP £15.60

The Easiring tool aims to make fitting hair extensions easier by allowing stylists to apply multiple micro rings to a client’s head at the same time. £125

Hair boost

Style it out

Colour newcomer

Goldwell StyleSign welcomes the Dust Up Ultra Volumizing Powder to its line-up. The powder provides body, emphasises texture and adds grip to the hair. RRP £14.50

Searching for a product that gives the benefits of a dry shampoo, but without the residue? Try Redken Dry Texture Dry Shampoo Powder 02 and Dry Shampoo Paste 05. £19.55 each

Neal & Wølf has launched Professional Colour. Using the international colour code (ICC) system the range is focused on giving multidimensional shades.

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INTERIORS

A Creative t o P g n i t l e M The new Hari’s on Fulham Road is a beautiful fusion of different architectural styles and living plants

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F

our salons across West London and 40 years in business make Hari’s Hairdressers a London institution. For this reason, the decision to relocate the Brompton Road salon to Fulham Road was made with care and consideration. “The new premises are close enough to our old Brompton Road site so as not to alienate our loyal clients, but it offers lots of foot fall to attract new business too,” explains Hari’s owner Hari Salem. A former antiques shop, the new premises had to be gutted before the team could start the ‘fun’ interior design process. A skylight feature was


INTERIORS The facts Name: Hari’s Hairdressers Address: 88 Fulham Road, London Owner: Hari Salem Staff: 50 Budget: £700,000 Design: Industrial chic with antique Indian furniture

put in place, the basement dug out and brand new industrialstandard plumbing and air conditioning was installed during 2018’s freezing cold spell (described in the press as the ‘Beast from the East’). The schedule for the whole refit was tight as the salon was due to open on Easter weekend. The beautiful sky light and the living greenery are undoubtedly

the design focal points of the space. The salon is separated into three distinct areas each with its own creative theme. The styling stations are crafted from industrial steel, the colour area features gothic church pieces with stained glass windows and the basement is filled with furniture sourced from India by Hari himself. “I went to India to collect old vintage furniture which I have adapted myself. My favourite piece of furniture is the 400 year old Indian door which we have repurposed to stand alone as a work of art and a bespoke clock which is made out of 40 other clocks!” (See picture below). Another key point of difference for the salon is the lighting. “We employed a lighting designer, Delta Light from Belgium. On the ground floor there are three Murano chandeliers running through the middle of the salon and Murano wall lights between each station,” says Hari. In the basement there are three pairs of art deco wall lights and a bespoke circular moon light built into the ceiling. The new salon is unmistakeably Hari’s, without looking like a cookie-cutter version of the other three salons. It highlights bespoke interior design at its best. 75 / hji.co.uk

Hari’s top tips Have a five-year plan Visualise the salon in the future. If anything, we could have made the salon bigger. Work with original features Turn any ‘awkward’ structural elements in the building, such as beams or piping, into striking features. Don’t cut corners Make sure you have the best hot water and backwash system – you don’t want to run out when you’re busy!


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CAREERS What was your route into hair? I worked as a Saturday girl when I was studying theatre and dance at The Brit School. Theatre is very competitive, so I did a hair apprenticeship to give me a skill that I could use between auditions and jobs. They both seemed similar as when I worked on the salon floor it felt like my stage to perform, but also with the added benefit of being able to make a client look and feel amazing. I started hairdressing at a time when YouTube step-by-step videos were just starting to become popular so Headmasters put me forward to make styling videos using my media and film experience and that’s when I knew I’d found the perfect career.

Can you tell us about your present role? My role as Headmasters creative colour ambassador is extremely varied. I have input in all parts of the business and it really has been a constant learning experience for me. I head up colour education, direct our artistic colour team, provide international education for Headmasters and L’Oréal Professionnel, formulate new techniques and offer colour trend predictions for what will gain strong press coverage. I work closely with our PR teams to produce consumer-facing campaigns and I work with our art team to produce inspirational imagery for other aspiring hairdressers. I’ve been lucky enough to not only become an international artist for L’Oréal Professionnel but I’ve been able to work on many international campaigns and tutorial videos.

Siobhan Jones

The Hair Artist

What are the pros and cons of your role?

Siobhan Jones went from stage school to the salon floor and has used her acting and media skills to create a varied role as Headmasters creative colour ambassador

Versatility is a pro as I could be colouring my client’s hair on a Monday, teaching in Moscow on Tuesday and shooting a new collection by the end of the week. Working unsociable hours is a con. There can be months when time off is limited but I’m slowly figuring out a system that works for me so I can get more balance in my life.

What are your tips for building a name in the industry? Speak to people to build your contacts. We are in an industry where people like to help one another. Hairdressing events are a great opportunity for this. Don’t be afraid to ask for advice or ask to be involved in opportunities via social media. Lots of people have contacted me via Instagram and I’m always willing to help. Instagram has become such an easy place to speak your mind and share your work. Tagging relevant people and magazines in your work will make them aware of you.

What challenges have you faced in your career so far? My unique selling point is creating wearable and consumer-focused colour. I’ve found it hard in the past to excite hairdressers with consumer-focused imagery, even though it is our bread and butter. It’s extremely important to provide education in this area because it has an effect on the work our clients see, which in turn effects how they view us as colourists and as an industry as a whole. I want to create a brand of colouring that excites the colourist but also creates a buzz out of the salon and connects these two worlds together.

What’s your advice for someone who aspires to have a career like yours? Perfecting your skill is a must and always 77 / hji.co.uk

be open to new opportunities. The contacts you make and the people you meet are what form your future path.

What’s your styling philosophy?

Simplicity is key. I’m all about the colour. Keeping the hair in impeccable condition is a must, whether it is straight or wavy. I believe in letting hair move – don’t over-spray and just let it swing.

What are your go-to products? L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Super Dust for creating beautiful silhouettes and height at the crown. I use Nioxin Diaboost to make hair thicker. It doesn’t just give volume. It swells the hair, meaning the hair feels fuller from root to tip, but it isn’t tacky.

What’s next for your career? I believe that a stampede of talented and knowledgeable colourists and hairdressers will bring colour and the hairdressing industry into the limelight much more than one person. I’m working on producing a new tailored and accessible education offering that I will share this year. I’ve seen some alarming figures based on clients’ feedback from their salon experiences. I’m working on a new concept that will make the consultation process more bespoke and comfortable for clients in the salon, so watch this space!


RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER Each month HJ is written to inform, educate and inspire you - delivering exclusive fashion collections, trend and industry news, product information, business advice and features on the issues that affect the industry. You will also receive HJ Men four times a year, Winning Collections and the Salon International Event Guide. HJ is available in print and on your mobile/tablet with additional content and interactive videos so you can keep up-to-date, wherever you are.

For further information visit www.hji.co.uk/subscribe/why-subscribe

or call 01371 851 876

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hji.co.uk/jobs


RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376

Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

STUART PHILLIPS

Fantastic Hairdressing Oportunity Available

HOLISTIC HAIRDRESSING

SELF EMPLOYED OR EMPLOYED STYLISTS COVENT GARDEN • Experienced stylists wanted • Offering high commissions

Neighbourhood Salon at Neighbourhood Location UK South West London Date Posted 2018-12-17 Industry / Job type Hair, Hair Stylist and Senior Stylist Salary Band Negotiable Contract Type Permanent Hour Full Time Neighborhood launched in 2009 in Kenway Village just of the main Earls Court Road. With it’s quirky interior, professional team and cheeky salon banter it has established itself as Earls Court’s destination salon attracting a diverse clientele from across London and further afield. We were a Loreal Colour Trophy specialist this year 2018. Job Role: We are looking for an experienced stylist with a client base. There is also potential to buy shares and invest into the company as well. If you are interested, email your CV to contact.nbhlondon@gmail.com or Telephone: 07724575668.

A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

Stuart Phillips are currently recruiting established stylists to join our award winning and passionate team in Covent Garden. To apply for the position please email Christina at stuart@stuartphillips.co.uk Or if you would like more information please contact Santana on 020 7379 5304

Creative, experienced and passionate hair stylists wanted Leading educational presentations to promote our innovative brands in Europe Must: • Have excellent technical skills • Experience of working with textured hair • Hold a senior role within the salon • Have minimum NVQ Level 3

To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA

0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk 79 / hji.co.uk

Send CV to: info@avloneurope.co.uk FAO Director of Education Closing date 31st January 2019


CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 Email: nicola.c@hji.co.uk

80 / hji.co.uk


CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

LEARN THE TRUE ART OF MALE GROOMING Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - The leading barbering expert. i Traditional barbering One day clipper cutting course

i Hot towel cut throat shaving

i Barbering boot camp

One day course

Four day course

PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk

FURNITURE

PROPERTY

Camberley / Wokingham. Well Estab Salon. Lease. £3,000wk. Five Days. £25,000 East Berks Town Centre. Good Class Hair Salon. Quality Fitted. Seat 15+. Air-conditioned. Good lease @ £24,000p.a. Staff run. Has been £5,250wk. £42,500 Farnborough, Hants. Very Smart Hair / Beauty. Busy location. Parade. Lease. Well fitted throughout. £2,500wk. Real potential for younger owner. Vendor retiring. £24,950 - Offers Invited Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Ruislip, Middx - Vacant Salon. Lease. Expensively fitted. Smart shop front. Would be ideal for a Barber. £5,000 South Herts - M25 belt area. Spacious Salon. Town Centre. New Lease. £4,500wk. Staff run. Retirement Sale Good potential for working owner. £34,995 (Freehold available) West Berks - few miles Newbury. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £2,750wk. £22,500 Wokingham, Berks. Salon Premises. Town Centre. Suit Gents Barbers. New Lease @ £20,000p.a. No Premium

Furnishing Your Future Alan Howard stock a fantastic range of high quality furniture to suit any budget. With professional furniture brands such as Scorpion, 1 $ , @MC 2@KNM LAHDMBD @U@HK@AKD NM jM@MBD it’s easier than ever to achieve the salon of your dreams. Shop Online: www.alanhoward.co.uk/furniture For a personal and bespoke design service, contact salondesign@alanhoward.co.uk.

“Some people look for a beautiful place, others make a place beautiful.”

Ask about our nationwide salon delivery service.

—Hazrat Inayat Khan

Town Centre Shop TO LET

7 Warwick Street, Worthing, West Sussex, BN11 3DF

• Suit Hair Salon use • Nearby occupiers include HSBC Bank, Robert Dyas, & Debenhams • 1516 Sq Ft Approximately • New Lease Available • £20,000 Per Annum Contact Agents Michael Jones Commercial on Telephone: 01903 201212

WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk

SCISSOR SHARPENING

POSTAL & WHILE-U-WAIT SCISSORS SERVICE Professional Japanese hand sharpening

SCISSORS SHARPENING £18 CUSTOM NAME LASERING £18 inc. immediate return by 1st Class recorded delivery +£5 Next Day Delivery per order

Unit8 Hanover West, 161 Acton Lane, London NW10 7NB T: 020 8965 0585 www.dowa-international.com

GROUP

Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture

WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call the team on 020 3841 7376

Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/

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INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens

T Stretched blondes “This image is from my awardwinning Avant Garde Stylist of The Year collection. I went on to win a total of four national titles and was inducted into the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame in 1997.”

T Feathered fans “I made this hairstyle up as I went along. I wanted to see hair that looked like feathered fans. When we shot these images, I had never seen hair with this look or texture before!”

s i r r a H Keith

From an apprenticeship with Vidal Sassoon to the Hollywood red carpet, Keith has worked with many of the world’s leading photographers and models and here are six of his favourites images W Sisters of mercy “I thought it would be an interesting challenge both aesthetically and also on a technical level, to get two girls to share the same hair. This image was gemini in my Naked Hair calendar.”

X Golden beauty “This beautiful image was shot by the man that helped create the look of modern hair pictures, the legend that is Trevor Leighton. When creating this updo, I wanted to highlight the beautiful colour of my model’s hair and show it off in all its glory. The styling of the shoot works perfectly.”

S The breeze technique “This is a blow-dry technique I developed during the early 1990s. I called it the breeze technique. There is no wind on the hair and no trickery or special effects.” W Soft and feminine “This beautiful girl was being talked about as the next big thing by her agency in Milan. We were only given a morning to work with her. I created some softness, movement and volume to complement her bone structure and emphasise her pretty and delicate features. The feeling was one of natural beauty and femininity.” 82 / hji.co.uk


SUPER SILVER

MASK An intensely hydrating, sulphate free treatment mask infused with super violet pigments to replenish lost moisture and neutralise unwanted yellow tones. Leaves blonde, grey and bleached hair feeling nourished, healthy and more radiant.

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3 herbal ingredients coated in coconut oil. Reveals luminous shine, respects hair fibre, blends white hair.


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