Hairdressers Journal January 2020

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

THE HOT TICKETS FOR

2020 January 2020

£5|January 2020|hji.co.uk

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at Paul Mitchell UK

Forty years ago, it all started with two friends and a dream. John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell, with just $700 in their pockets, started a company that would support the success of hairdressers and provide salon-quality products at an affordable price. Four decades later this is still the enduring promise that we make to the professional industry.

“Our goal has always been to provide hairdressers with the best products and education, and we’re constantly finding new ways to achieve it.”

-John Paul DeJoria

Available exclusively from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011

CONTENTS

January 2020 News

06

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

12

HJ Reports We take a trip to OWAY HQ in Bologna, Italy

Business

16

Turn it Around How to bring a salon back from the brink with Ryan Fox

18

Building a Brand Mark Woolley explains how he grew the Electric London brand

20

Big Debate Silent treatments – are you for or against?

21

New Year, New You Liz McKeon shares the resolutions to make for a healthier and happier you

Industry Events A round-up of the hairdressing awards and events to attend this year

28

Silver Hues A detailed look at the colour trend that’s set to rule in 2020

ADAM REED

24

46

SALLY BROOKS

Features

38 Inspiration

38

Fashion Three more British nominee collections and two exclusive fashion collections

Regulars

22

Membership Offer Win a Wella Professionals No Strings Attached kit in this issue

32

Men’s Trends Male grooming news, trends and an exclusive fashion collection 4 / hji.co.uk

72

The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month

74

Interiors Take a tour of Linnaean in Battersea, London

77

Careers Northern Ireland hairdresser Sharon Malcolm shares her career secrets

82

Life Through a Lens Tracy Hayes reveals her most-loved images

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

24 Managing Director Mark Moloney ] Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

74

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

We l c o m e

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377

C

an you believe it’s January 2020? In the HJ office we’ve been talking about the most innovative hair trends of the decade and what we predict will be big for 2020. One thing’s for sure – silver hair is here to stay so don’t miss our silver hair colour feature on page 23 to find out how to keep your clients’ platinum locks looking super glossy.

If New Year’s resolutions are high on your agenda, we have a number of articles to keep you on track. We have steps for turning your business around on page 16 and advice for kick-starting a better work/life balance this year on page 21.

Plus, if it’s your dream to enter an industry award and win, you won’t want to miss our feature on the hottest tickets for 2020 with awards entry dates and ceremony venues. Don’t forget entries are already open for HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards with the ceremony taking place on 29 June 2020 so please pop the date in your diary now!

If that wasn’t enough, we’re also treating you to three more of 2019’s gorgeous British nominee collections and an exclusive interview with HJ’s Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year.

We hope you enjoy our first issue of 2020 and we’d love for you to get in touch to tell us what you’d like to see from us in print, online and at our shows this year.

Intern Lydia Halsey

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Deputy Sales Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367

Account Manager Thomas Cox thomas@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365

Events and Sales Administrator Melinda Park melinda@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield

On the cover: Hair: Errol Douglas MBE for Bellami Professional Make-up: Lans Nguyen Grealis Styling: ED:it Photography: Richard Miles 5 / hji.co.uk

Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061

INDUSTRY NEWS The Hairdressing Industry Reviewed The National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) has publicised a survey of 2019 industry statistics for hairdressing, barbering and beauty.

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Here are some of the key findings:

Over half of hair and beauty businesses have an annual turnover of less than £99K.

There are over 43,000 hair and beauty businesses in the UK .

The hair and beauty industry generated over £7.5bn in turnover for the UK economy in 2017.

What the General Election Results Mean The Conservatives received a majority vote in the 2019 General Election last month. HJ spoke to the National Hair and Beauty Federation to outline what Boris Johnson’s policies will mean for the hairdressing industry.

The Conservatives outlined a number of policies that could affect a salon business in their manifesto and party campaigns: • Increasing National Living Wage (NLW) to £10.50 per hour within

five years.

• Reducing the National Living Wage threshold from 25 to 23 from 2021 and to 21 by 2024.

• Encouraging flexible working.

• Making it easier for fathers to take paternity leave.

• Having a single enforcement body to crack down on employment law abuse.

• Reducing business rates for retail stores to protect the UK high street.

Half of Salon Owners Consider Closing 54% of people who work in hairdressing and barbering are self-employed.

There has been a growth of 45% in the number of hairdressing, barbering and beauty businesses in the past five years.

A

survey of 1,000 salons around the world has discovered that nearly half of salon owners have considered closing their salons at some point.

The majority of those who contemplated terminating their business did so when their salon was well established or three years into business.

The statistics collected from Phorest Salon Software revealed the reasons behind the salon closures. The research found that almost a third of salon owners found hiring and managing staff to be the most challenging aspect of their business, followed by external factors such as rent, tax and the recession. Here are the key stats…

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• 32% found hiring and managing staff to be the most challenging aspect of running a business.

• 22% had considered giving up due to external factors such as rent, tax and the recession.

• 19% found their passion for hair and beauty had turned into a chore.

Go to page 16 for tips on how to turn your salon business around.

NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

Headmasters Announces New London Academy H

eadmasters is set to open a new London Academy in February 2020. For the first time in its history, it will teach its education programmes to the hairdressing industry.

Entering its 38th year and with over 60 salons, Headmasters will offer courses to independent hairdressers and salons wanting to benefit from the expertise and hands on experience of the Headmasters creative team.

Led by Andrew Barton and creative ambassadors Gareth Williams, Jonathan Soons, Nicole Iroh, Alfie Pfeffer and Clare Hansford, the salon group aims to provide informative and inspiring education that can be taken straight back to the salon floor.

Hair Influencer of the Year 2019

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Hairdressing is UK’s Second Most Tipped Industry A survey into the UK’s most tipped professions revealed that hairdressing is still the second most tipped industry with over three quarters of consumers tipping their hairdressers (79%).

The research also revealed the term ‘tipping’ is typed into Google over six million times in the UK every month, which suggests there is some confusion surrounding tipping etiquette.

Those in the catering professions rank the highest.

Whilst Uber drivers and those in construction and housekeeping receive the least tips.

The survey, which was conducted by British marketplace website OnBuy.com revealed that men are more likely to tip than women with 83% of men being likely to leave a tip, compared to only 72% of women.

It was also found the percentage of the tip can vary according to the age of the client and the time of year the appointment takes place.

7 / hji.co.uk

Chris Appleton, Color Wow’s global creative director won the Hair Influencer of the Year award at the American Influencer Awards in Hollywood, L.A. Chris achieved social media notoriety with his iconic glass hair look in 2019.

The British hairdresser has styled the look on many of his celebrity clients, most notably Kim Kardashian.

Hair Made Easi Ambassadors Rick and Zoe Roberts have been named the new brand ambassadors for extension storage company Hair Made Easi.

HJ’s Afro Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards 2019, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional said: “Zoe and I are happy to be part of a company that develops products to help us with hair wefts extensions and wigs on shoots, shows and everyday salon life.”

Clayde Baumann from D&J Ambrose shares his must-attend course of 2020 The course: Wella Professionals Colour Masterclass is a one-day course delivered by guest artists including myself. It explores the world of editorial colour and fashion-led techniques. It’s the ideal course for getting tips and advice for Insta-ready hair.

Why is it special? If you’re confident in your technical ability but would benefit from a deeper understanding of the creative techniques that are used in fashion and competitions – this is for you.

Why now? There are guest artists leading the course and the line-up is incredible. It includes artists from HOB Academy, Sassoon Academy, TONI&GUY, Karbon Kyd and Hair by Mane.

What’s the secret to running a successful colour business?

I’m always working on developing new techniques and colours. We get clear colour swatches and then create bespoke formulas.

The art team creates look books which make great conversation starters.

CLAYDE’S INSIDER COLOUR TIPS:

1

Continuously research. I draw inspiration from the Pantone Color Institute. Plus, the Wella Colour Masterclass is a great course for helping you look outside the industry for inspiration.

2

Remember to have faith in yourself as this will help you to drive your colour business forward.

3

Avoid losing clients because of a misunderstanding and take the time to have a thorough consultation. This is critical and contributes to a great colour business.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing celebrated another successful year with its annual luncheon and awards last month.

The event recognises the hairdressing industry’s achievements throughout the past 12 months, celebrating Fellowship members as well as the wider successes of the British hairdressing industry.

This year the event moved to a new venue with Chancellor Ashleigh Hodges opening the awards at InterContinental Park Lane hotel in Mayfair, London.

President Ken Picton joined Ashleigh on stage. He acknowledged the success of the Fellowship, including the launch of the online education platform – The Knowledge.

During the ceremony the winners of the Fellowship Awards were announced as well as the names of the new FAME Team. Nick Irwin who has led the FAME Team for the past three years took the opportunity to say thank you to his teams and the Fellowship and handed over the reins to new team leader, Jamie Stevens.

Sally Brooks took home the Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year title for her contributions to the British hairdressing industry.

Head to hji.co.uk to see the list of Fellowship award winners and the four new FAME Team members.

Blue is the hue for 2020 T

he Pantone colour of the year for 2020 has been announced as Classic Blue. Muted, traditional and simple, Classic Blue can easily be translated into the hair and beauty world. Experts say the colour is stable and offers the reassurance our society is looking for in an increasingly uncertain world.

“We are living in a time that requires trust and faith,” says the executive director of the Pantone Color Institute.

“It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue that we can always rely on.”

Carly Price, partner and head stylist at Muse of London said: “I think clients will come into the salons to add blue into their hair, whether it’s through all over colour or by adding flashes of classic blue.

This shade will work amazing on blondes, but for brunettes I think we will see a lot of darker, more petrol-inspired shades being popular, with many clients opting to incorporate these shades into balayage techniques.”

8 / hji.co.uk

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COURSE INSIDER

The Fellowship 2019 Luncheon and Awards

INTRODUCING NEW

A COLLECTION OF MULTI-USE LIGHTENING SOLUTIONS TO CATER FOR ALL CLIENT REQUIREMENTS WWW.OSMO.UK.COM

EXPRESS YOUR OUR CLIENTS’ COLOUR New ChromaID semi-permanent mix & tone colour From subtle to bold shades – 100% colour flexibility

IDENTITY system with integrated bonding. without damage.

www.schwarzkopfpro.com

HJ REPORTS

UP, UP AND OWAY HJ visited the Oway HQ in Bologna, Italy to find out more about the partnership between Oway and Blue Tit London

B THE CORE OWAY BRAND VALUES

lue Tit London were named the global creative directors of Italian haircare brand Oway last year. With an emphasis on natural ingredients and a cruelty-free ethos, the two brands are a strong match when it comes to values and practices.

Oway proudly describes its range as the world’s first professional haircare, treatment and colour line that’s made with pure essential oils, zero toxic ingredients and a cruelty-free ethos. Six years ago, the brand made the decision to go plasticfree and it is now 99% plastic-free. The brand is still searching for a viable alternative for its dispenser pumps.

Most of the range is housed in amber glass bottles with aluminium materials and ‘tree-free’ paper.

The Oway farm estate To celebrate the new partnership HJ was invited to Oway’s farm estate, Ortofficina in rural Bologna where Oway ingredients are grown using a biodynamic farming method. Created by philosopher and scientist Rudolph Steiner in 1924, biodynamic farming focuses on the needs of the farm first and profit second.

The Biodynamic Association defines a biodynamic farm in the following way: “Each biodynamic farm is an integrated, whole and living organism. This organism is made up of many interdependent elements: fields, forests, plants, animals, soils, compost, people, and the spirit of the place. Biodynamic farmers and gardeners work to nurture and harmonise these elements, managing them in a holistic and dynamic way 12 / hji.co.uk

to support the health and vitality of the whole.”

At Ortoficcina we saw some of Oway’s ingredients, including lavender and sage. Oway colour is made from 35% sage as it’s great for scalp health and acts as a hair treatment. All of the natural ingredients are grown in a biodynamic way at a number of different estates throughout Italy.

Oway Spazio and Artigano wood laboratory The next stop on the itinerary was at the brand’s lab, academy and showroom called Oway Spazio. Spazio welcomes Oway salon stylists and hair professionals from all over the world for education and training. There are classrooms, a stage for events and shows, and even a screening room.

It is a plastic-free environment with eco-sustainable furnishings that are designed and built at the nearby Artigano wood laboratory. The very same wood laboratory was next on the Oway hit list, where we met the lead designer who is responsible for all of the salon furniture, window displays and wooden packaging. The

HJ REPORTS

emphasis is on sustainability which can be seen everywhere from the wood offcuts being used to heat the building to the wood waste being used to make some of the product packaging.

A ‘Sloway’ pace of life Next, we travelled to the centre of Bologna city to visit the Oway store on Via Ugo Bassi. Spread over four floors the store brings the Oway story to life. In the basement visitors can go on a virtual tour of the Ortofficina farm estate. The ground floor has a retail space where visitors can touch, smell and feel the Oway products. The first-floor consultation area provides visitors with a free assessment to work out what Oway products suit their needs and the Sloway salon on the fourth floor introduces them to a slower pace of life. Here hair appointments last for an hour or more with various essential oil treatments being used throughout a client’s appointment. As with all the Oway spaces we visited on our trip, the furniture and fittings of the store were developed in the Artigano wood workshop.

The trip brought to life the shared values that Oway and Blue Tit London hold – namely sustainable practices, eco awareness and a respect for both the environment and the people working within their businesses.

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Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

2020 Giveaways I

n December we had you covered with our Season of Giving content that we posted on hji.co.uk. With advice, inspiration and education in abundance, Season of Giving was our gift to you for your continued support over the year. But good news – we still have some excellent Instagram competitions (worth over £2,000) live on our feed. However the Season of Giving Instagram giveaways close on Monday 6 January 2020, so you need to be quick to enter!

A Reel-y Colourful January There’s no denying that January can be a sad and grey time of year. We have decided to brighten things up on our Instagram feed with a week of reposting #HJColourReel content. Looks can be from a shoot or simply shots of your clients, simply hashtag your photo and tag us. Starting from Blue Monday (20 January), we will be reposting as many images as possible. Follow us on Instagram: @hairdressersjournal.

14 / hji.co.uk

@hji

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

@hjinteractive

Social Shout Out

@garygillhair

#BHBA20

If you want beautiful editorial images, you need to follow Gary Gill. His feed is an example of where hair meets art.

Akesha, digital editor

The British Hairdressing Business Awards is open for entries! The awards continue to grow and we have a new home for the glittering awards ceremony this year so the show is set to be better than ever! before.

For more information go to bhba.evessiocloud.com/ bhba2020.

@jamiestevenshair

A Decade of Innovation A

I’m going to enjoy watching the FAME Team’s progress this year on new team leader, Jamie Stevens’ feed!

Laura Husband, HJ editor

s the new decade begins it’s only natural to reflect on the trends and techniques that have emerged over the past 10 years in our industry. Check out our online article to see our top innovations from 2010 to 2019 and if you have any more, tweet us at @hji on Twitter.

@neilmoodie SHUTTERSTOCK

Gorgeous campaigns, editorial shoots and teasers for his latest podcast episodes, Neil’s grid is a veritable fashion feast.

Charlotte, content editor 15 / hji.co.uk

BUSINESS

A New Year Means a New Salon Business Transform your salon business in 2020. Salon consultant Ryan Fox shares his tips for turning your salon business around

M

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ost people’s hair keeps on growing, which is good news for salons but as a salon owner keeping your business growing in today’s stressful business environment is far from easy. It can be a challenge to keep going and cover overheads. Here are the ten steps you need to take to stop your business going sour…

your 1 Understand current position

The first step I take is to sit down and talk about where the salon owner is and how they got there. It’s important to understand the journey you’ve taken, why you opened your own salon in the first place and what exactly has gone wrong.

2

Identify the key issues

Strip out all of the emotion and get some distance from any contentious issues. You need to separate yourself from the business.

Often your relationships with people in the business are closely intertwined which can cloud good decision making.

3 Make strong decisions

At this point it is important to make decisions on what changes need to be made and stick to them. Making the changes happen is going to be hard enough so don’t keep changing your mind as this will send the wrong messages to your team.

4 Remove unnecessary costs

If you take a look at your profit, loss and all of your outgoings, you will be able to see where you can make cost savings and strip out unnecessary costs. This has to be done in a practical way as you want to improve the service in the salon at the same time. For example, you can’t stop buying hair colour as you need to provide a hair colour service but you could look at reducing product waste or purchase from a different supplier to reduce costs.

5 Adapt to market changes

Fashion trends, culture and technology all drive changes within the professional hairdressing market.

You will need to invest in new equipment or software to compete in a new era and not look out-of-date.

6 Focus on your strengths

Consider the strengths of your team and how you can capitalise on them. In today’s social media-driven world, it’s about identifying what your salon is really good at and being able to communicate it to existing clients as well as potential clients.

7

Increase service quality

Concentrate on the quality of your service by reviewing the processes and the language used at each part of your service. If you improve all elements of your service, it will make your clients feel valued and they will be more likely to return and recommend their friends. Also, it will increase your average bill if you make recommendations for add-on services and products.

8 Are you in the right place?

As much as you need to separate yourself as the salon owner from your business it is still you who will drive your business forward. You must be in good mental and physical health to steer the business in the right direction. Taking a ‘break’ whether it 16 / hji.co.uk

is for exercise, visiting a spa or family time, will help to give you clarity and will improve your business decisions.

9 Set new goals

A new direction will require new goals so you will need to tear up the old ones. Be resolute in sticking to your goals. Set up new patterns the salon must follow and become more consistent in making sure tasks are done every week. This is called an activity cycle and it should be introduced into the salon to give you and the team more structure.

10 Take action

Businesses go through periods of decline and not all survive. If your salon is in decline, there are steps you can take to turn it around but you need to take action and ask for help.

Bad energy is powerful and can lead to failure but it can be used as a force for good. Remember every action has an equal and opposite reaction so if things can go down, they can equally go back up again.

Ryan Fox is a salon consultant who helps to turn around salon businesses.

For a confidential consultation call 07702 208 311 or visit umbrellaconsulting.co.uk.

CUST

LOR O C UR

O Y E Z OMI

• ADD POWER PIGMENTS TO COLOR, CARE AND STYLING TO TAKE SALON TREATMENTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL. • CREATE INSTANT COLOR DEPOSITS, SIMPLY CHOOSE YOUR BASE, DROP AND APPLY. • A TRULY CUSTOMIZABLE COLOR, USE LESS DROPS FOR PASTEL SHADES OR MIX MULTIPLE DROPS TO CREATE A BRAND NEW TONE.

#GOTTHEPOWER

CRAZY COLOR

@CRAZYCOLORLTD

BUSINESS

Face Behind the Brand HJ speaks to award-winning hairdresser Mark Woolley, founder of Electric Hairdressing London, about growing a salon and professional brand business and the importance of being true to your beliefs

What was the inspiration behind your Electric product range?

I met a really great chemist and spoke to him about what I felt certain products couldn’t do. He said he could help me to make something that would work for me. I enjoyed the process – it took a couple of years to get the first product ready but once we made it – it worked.

How important are sustainability and ethics for you and your brand?

Electric is UK-based, and all our manufacturing is sustainable.

We source everything that goes into the bottle, natural ingredients and compounds. Everything is sourced within the British Isles, which means we know that none of our ingredients have been tested on animals. All of our packaging is 100% recyclable – even the lids.

Electric products are completely sustainable and cruelty-free with a high percentage of natural ingredients.

?PI\ IZM \PM JMVMÅ\[ WN [W]ZKQVO your ingredients from the UK? I’m extremely proud that we source all of our ingredients from the UK – it feels right for our brand.

How do you juggle running the brand alongside being a salon owner?

It’s all about having a strong team of people around you. Every Electric salon has a homegrown art director and a homegrown manager.

It has taken me years to not try and do everything and I’m still learning!

The great thing with Electric Hairdressing being a brand and not a person is that you can let other people acheive things and let them be rewarded for it.

Why is it important to you that Electric remains a professional quality brand?

It is all about making products that are powerful tools for hairdressers.

That is our market and what we know – we’re hairdressers and we understand what the product is.

It’s important that we’re making professional products.

Do you plan on growing your salon chain?

I see our salons as a very important part of our brand and I’d rather be putting our efforts into the quality of our existing salons – keeping good staff and growing the network of each salon in its local area. In saying this, a lot of stores have gone online so there are units available on the high street, which makes it easier for hairdressers to set up a new salon, but we definitely won’t become a salon group.

What’s the highlight of your career so far?

The thing that altered everything for me was making that first product – it changed everything for me and my brand.

What are the biggest challenges you’ve faced when running your own business?

Trying to finance it all myself is a challenge.

One day I’d like to tell my whole story with the hope that a young person will listen to me and will decide to give it a go themselves. When we moved out of our house and moved to Falmer Court in Brighton, it was a case of one minute we 18 / hji.co.uk

were jumping up and down because our salon had done well, but the next minute we had our head in our hands about how we were going to meet the next VAT bill. The challenge of running a hairdressing business is trying to keep your clients happy while you’ve got major worries on your mind. I’ve learned the value of everything and not to be stupid with money.

What are your tips for building a successful brand?

You’ve got to keep it real, stay true to what you are and what you believe in. Be prepared to work hard and to do more than anyone else has done.

What are your go-to products in the Electric range?

I never go anywhere without preparation spray (P*-4), and I use it on everyone. I use it on runway shows where the hair has to look natural or on anyone when working on a set. I love our ºC-7 e.spray hairspray – it is a really unique offering as it doesn’t contain any alcohol. We thought – do we really want to be spraying alcohol over our hair? We use butane in the product as a propellant, there’s a little bit of alcohol in this, but in the formulation there is zero alcohol. We use cotton oil extract because of how it reacts with the propellant as a substitute for alcohol.

d e s or d n E by Brandon Messinger FELLOWSHIP F.A.M.E. Team 2020 DENMAN GLOBAL COLLECTIVE Member

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BUSINESS

The Debate

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No

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“Not Another Salon is famous for its ‘No Judgment’ policy and I knew that to be truly inclusive we needed to stop clients feeling embarrassed about their individual needs, which is why I introduced the silent haircut. In our over stimulated world, alone time is scarce, and I believe that quiet time is key to better mental health for everyone, not just those affected by mental health issues.

I think we are too ‘British’ in this country. In order to avoid burn out we all need to be clearer on our needs. None of our clients would ever ask for silence before it was a service option, because everyone was too polite to say anything!

Our staff are over the moon about the silent haircut. They all love a chat, but they also love to enjoy some calm as well. We still talk through the consultation and talk about a client’s hair needs through the service – we have just dropped the general chit-chat. Sometimes not talking is the best thing we can do for our mental health, but sometimes, on the contrary, talking is great for our mental health.

It’s about offering what’s right for the client at that particular time.

Our salon is filled with banter and laughter, which is total escapism for some people, and I would never change that. However, one day I thought – if I really want to be inclusive, I need to let people know they can have any experience they want here. The silent haircut makes it easier for the client to choose and know it’s ok to be them.”

Sophia Hilton, owner of Not Another Salon

“Silent appointments have become a hot topic within our industry and I have to say I am strongly against them. In a world where social media has taken over and in-person communication has become less frequent, the client/hairdresser relationship is extremely important.

It’s not about creating a ‘silent appointment,’ it’s about educating the industry on reading and being aware of a client’s feelings and needs. We are fortunate that our industry encourages communication, and this is something we need to hold on to.

At RUSH we provide an educational course called ‘Serve the Client’ and all stylists take part. This course takes each stylist through the client journey and teaches them how to read the client in terms of their body language and to build a long-lasting relationship that will meet their needs at all times.

Through this course we can instantly acknowledge when a client wants quiet time or wants to chat.

For me personally, I want to build up the relationship with my client. I want to show them my loyalty, receive it in return and even become their friend. I would feel extremely isolated myself if a client booked a silent appointment with me. I would feel very disconnected from them – almost like I was a robot. I want to tap into their energy and connect with them on a creative and professional level whilst also being someone they can talk to and confide in.”

Tina Farey, editorial director at RUSH Hair

20 / hji.co.uk

SHUTTERSTOCK

Two industry experts debate the pros and cons of silent haircuts

Self-Care and Wellness 101 Top tips for making time for yourself

Are you ready to make yourself a priority in 2020? Business consultant Liz McKeon shares her tips for creating a healthy work/life balance

1

R

2

unning your own salon can consume an incredible amount of time and energy. To avoid feeling burnt out, set yourself strict work/life boundaries. Retaining a personal life may seem like an impossible task, but setting strategies is key to mastering the art of self-care. Here’s how to achieve a work/life balance in 2020:

Draw a line between work and home Get into the habit of separating the two. When you are at work, you are at work and when you are at home, you are at home. Don’t be in one place and worrying or feeling guilty about not being in the other.

Always stop for meals On average most salon owners work a minimum of 64 hours per week. Taking care of yourself and establishing healthy eating habits is vital if you want to have the energy required to do your job. Set regular mealtimes and try to switch off your phone.

5ISM I XZIK\QKM WN [_Q\KPQVO WЄ Statistics show that 50% of us check our phones before 7am. You need to

build in uninterrupted thinking time into your day. Our brains need respite to produce innovative ideas.

Make time for a holiday It is difficult to leave your salon for long periods of time, but regular, even short breaks, will give you something to look forward to and allow you to recharge your batteries.

Set priorities To feel more balanced in life and business, set boundaries and create lists. Put the most important tasks on the top of the list and the least important towards the bottom. Learn to stop ‘sweating the small stuff’ and let go of the less important things, so you can enjoy more leisure time.

Taking care of your own health and wellbeing starts with managing your time. Create a schedule, making your time off, hobbies and interests a priority, then adhere to the list.

Say no to make you grow Learn the power of saying no, because sometimes we forget how important it is to say ‘no’ when we are busy. If you are respectful to your time limitations, your staff and clients will show you the same respect.

21 / hji.co.uk

Set aside a specific time each and every week for your own self-care – block it in the diary and stick to it.

If something is blocking you from taking time out, identify what it is and address this.

3

Prioritise the things that bring you joy and happiness. This could be simple things such as a walk in the park or time to watch your favourite show on Netflix.

4

Keep regular hours at work and be strict about your work/life balance.

5

Technology can be your friend – apps like Headspace are excellent to help remind you to take some time out. The mindful breathing exercises are invaluable.

Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK

BUSINESS

MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities.

Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win Wella Professionals’ No Strings Attached Colour Service Kit ecruit new clients into your salon who R are colour shy or want to test out new trends with the new low-commitment

Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.

10-minute glossing service from Wella Professionals. By combining only three products: Koleston Perfect ME+, Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer and INVIGO Post Color Treatment, it is now possible to transform a client’s hair for a refreshed natural look or a bold change in no time.

Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY

One new HJ member will have the chance to win the kit, which includes: • 4 Koleston Perfect ME+ shades • 1 Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer • 1 INVIGO Post Color Treatment • 1 Color Motion+ Color Protection Shampoo, Moisturising Colour Reflection bonding agent and Pre-Color Treatment

Membership rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

For more information go to uk.wellastore.com or Instagram: @wellahairuk and Facebook: Wella Professionals @WellaUK.

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 135 No. 65614 January 2020. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DE. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media.

Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

22 / hji.co.uk

AWARDS AND EVENTS THE HAIR AND BEAUTY CHARITY BALL 2020

What: A fabulous night where supporters, friends and sponsors of the charity come together to celebrate the fantastic achievements that have occurred over the past year. This year the event will be held at Atmosphere 28 in London’s Millbank.

When: Monday 2 March Where: Atmosphere 28, Millbank, London Website: hairandbeautycharity.org/ball AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE

What: The photographic challenge will be judged by a panel who will select a national winner. The winner will participate in the Global competition where the five top competitors will be named the All-Star Challenge 2020 winners. The five finalists will receive $5,000 and a trip to Los Angeles, USA to participate in a photo shoot alongside American Crew founder David Raccuglia.

When: May 2020 Where: Los Angeles, USA Website: allstarchallenge.americancrew.com

All the key dates for the industry’s leading awards and events in one place

WELLA XPOSURE

What: A competition for hairdressing students. You need to be studying for an NVQ/VRQ 2 or 3 for at least one day a week if you are based in the UK. If you are based in Ireland you need to be studying for QQI Level 5 or 6 for at least one day a week.

Key dates: Entries open on Thursday 9 January and close on Tuesday 18 February.

UK Regional and Ireland Heats will take place from 22-30 April. The UK & Ireland Final will be held on Monday 1 June.

Where: The final is at Wella World Studio in London.

Website: wella.com/professional/xposure

THE HOT

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY

FOR

What: A live hairdressing competition that showcases fashion-led hair looks with five awards – Colour Trophy, Men’s Image, Afro, STAR and introducing the new College Award.

This year L’Oréal Colour Trophy is

TICKETS 0 2 0 2 celebrating 65 years with its biggest ceremony to date.

When: Monday 1 June Where: Battersea Evolution, London Website: lorealcolourtrophy.com HJ’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

What: If you’re an inspirational manager, innovator or brilliant junior, enter HJ's British Hairdressing Business Awards. The awards will take place in June this year. Entries are now open and close on Friday 3 April.

When: Monday 29 June Where: London Hilton on Park Lane, London Contact: Enter at bhba.evessiocloud.com.

For more information email Lizzi Diggins at lizzi@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365.

24 / hji.co.uk

AWARDS AND EVENTS MODERN BARBER AWARDS

What: The night before this year’s inaugural BARBERFEST hosted by Modern Barber, this awards ceremony will be championing the best of the barbering world. Featuring both creative and business awards, it will highlight the standout stars from the barbering industry.

When: Sunday 5 July Where: Brighton (exact location TBC) Contact: Email lizzi@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365.

who will represent the UK and Ireland in the global finals. The Kao Salon Division Global Experience (formerly known as Global Zoom) is the international event that will take place in October and will feature the global final for the Creative Awards.

When: Kao Salon Division Global Experience will take place 10-13 October and the Goldwell Global Creative Awards will be held in late July/early August (locations TBC) Website: goldwell.co.uk/news-events ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW INTERNATIONAL VISIONARY AWARD

FHA UK FREELANCE AWARDS

What: The FHA Freelance Awards 2020 categories are: Colourist of the Year, Ladies Stylist of the Year, Bridal Stylist of the Year, Prom and Party Stylist of the Year and Creative Stylist of the Year. Rules have been updated and will be on the FHA website in January 2020.

When: Sunday 14 July Where: Sketchley Grange Hotel and Spa Sketchley Lane, Hinckley Website: fha.org.uk WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD

What: Raise your profile with Wella’s hair competition. In 2020, entrants can enter on Instagram.

When: Photographic entries open on Tuesday 3 March and the deadline is on Thursday 9 April. The UK Regional Heats will take place on 1 June and 8 June.

The UK & Ireland Final will be held on Monday 28 September.

Where: The final takes place at the Roundhouse, London.

Website: wella.com/trendvision KAO SALON DIVISION GLOBAL EXPERIENCE AND GOLDWELL GLOBAL CREATIVE AWARDS

What: The renamed Goldwell Global Creative Awards (formerly known as Color Zoom) will reveal the finalists

What: An international competition to showcase the industry’s stars. All proceeds from the ticket sales of the Alternative Hair Show go towards the Fighting Leukaemia charity.

When: Sunday 11 October Where: London (exact location TBC) Website: alternativehair.org PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY & HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL AWARDS What: For the first time Professional Beauty and Hairdressers Journal International are hosting

awards in Ireland. There will be both creative and business awards.

When: Sunday 8 November Where: Citywest Hotel, Dublin, Ireland Contact: Email lizzi@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365.

NHBF BUSINESS AWARDS

What: The renamed National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) will celebrate the UK's best hairdressing, barbering and beauty businesses.

When: Sunday 15 November Where: London (exact location TBC) Website: nhf.info/events/competitions/nhfbusiness-awards/ HJ’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

What: There are 18 categories to choose from, including regional and specialist categories.

Entrants must submit four photographs from a collection shot within the past 12 months.

Entries open Friday 3 April and entries close Friday 19 June.

When: Monday 30 November Where: JW Marriot Grosvenor House Hotel, London Contact: Email lizzi@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365.

THE FELLOWSHIP OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING FELLOWSHIP AWARDS

What: Any Fellowship member can enter the Fellowship Awards categories, which include Individual Salon of the Year and Fellowship Image of the Year. Each category is judged by a panel of Fellowship members.

When: Monday 7 December Where: InterContinental London Park Lane, London Website: fellowshiphair.com 25 / hji.co.uk

HAIRCOLOR WE HAVE CHANGED EVERYTHING BUT THE ICONIC FORMULA SAME ICONIC FORMULA Highly concentrated in caring agents and Ionène G Hair is 45% more conditioned after colour ** Perfect coverage True to tone, long lasting colours Creamy non-dripping texture

NEW COOL INFORCED SHADES* Large colour palette with 8 new cool shades Up to 6 weeks of neutralisation** %RRVWHG LQ FRRO UHŴHFWV

NEW DESIGN Colour coded pack by colour family Shade number on the facing New 100% recycled plastic cap, Saving 7 tons of plastic each year *** **Instrumental testing.

***Saving 7T of virgin plastic, based on full 2018 quantities.

*Launching February 2020.

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COLOUR

S

ilver was last year’s Hair Colour of the Year, according to Vogue and L’Oréal Paris. Similarly, the Brits Prefer Blondes survey by market analysts Mintel, found one in 20 (5%) of hair dye users opt for a grey/white look. Silver hair and its associates grey and platinum remain big business.

Shade match From gunmetal to platinum, there’s a plethora of shades on the silver/ grey spectrum. For many of your clients the options available will be determined by their skin tone. Dan Rice, co-owner of Williams & Rice for L’Oréal Professionnel explains: “For pale tones I always suggest going for medium to dark charcoal shades such as tempest grey, white grey and even pinkish grey. For warm skin tones light silvers look great – silver

platinum, ice grey and gunmetal grey with a slight hint of blue, work really well.”

When it comes to darker skin tones, it’s all about contrast. “I love how light grey hair looks against darker skin tones,” agrees Bruno Marc Giamettei, JOICO ambassador for Europe, UK and Ireland. “A grey root stretch works really well for clients with dark skin tones as the dark root sits perfectly against the skin and fades into lighter grey, making the mid-lengths and ends really pop.”

Crazy Color ambassador Sophia Hilton says grey is out and silver is in. “In my opinion a true grey shade isn’t flattering,” remarks Sophia. “It’s prone to going green, can look muddy and yellow often sneaks through.

When it comes to silver, the shade always looks better when a client really makes an effort with their

BANISH BRASS

L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Silver Conditioner gives a glossing effect thanks to its blend of amino acids and anti-yellow agents.

They work together to banish brassy tones.

Shimmery, violettinted pigments in Paul Mitchell Platinum Blonde Toning Spray helps to get rid of yellow tones to refine blonde, white and silver tones.

Goldwell Dualsenses Silver Shampoo neutralises yellow tones and gives hair a cool-looking effect. The brand’s formula works to minimise colour fade with every use.

28 / hji.co.uk

*Mintel Brits Prefer Blondes survey https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-and-personal-care/brits-prefer-blondes-blonde-is-the-nations-number-one-dyed-hair-colour-of-choice

It might be hard to achieve and even harder to maintain, but silver continues to be a hot hair colour in 2020

GOLDWELL

SILVER

Go gradually For any silver hue, hair needs to be lifted to a clean base. “Ideally lift to a clean base 10,” recommends Heffy Wheeler, owner of HX Hair and OSMO brand ambassador. “At a time when 80% of British women colour hair, it’s so important to get a clean base to work on. Plus, as hairdressers we are, unfortunately, likely to be removing build up from a box dye.”

This extensive journey to get a clean base means it’s crucial to manage client’s expectations – silver is not a colour that can always be achieved during one appointment.

Go slow was the advice given by all of our colour experts. “Perform an elasticity test and a strand test prior to the service and after each application,” explains Charlotte Hickey, Wella Passionista and owner of Hair by Charlotte, who recently took boxer Amir Khan’s hair grey. “In addition, a scalp analysis will ensure you have all areas covered.”

Using different colour techniques to achieve a silver/grey sweet spot is a great way to manage client expectations and slow the colouring process. “I would suggest creating silver gradually by building up balayage or highlights rather than colouring the hair all at once, especially on those with dark hair,” explains Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic director.

“Not only does this mean clients won’t have a massive shock when they see their newly coloured silver or grey hair, but it also protects the health of the hair.” As a result, it is a win, win.

VICTORIA CARTWRIGHT FOR COLOURCODE

STERLING

make-up. For me, it’s less about what suits their skin tone and more about how they carry off the whole look.”

COLOUR

Tone up Silver hair cannot be achieved without the help of at least one toner. “Once hair has been lifted to as clean a base as possible, the client will likely still have yellow or orange pigment remaining in their hair,” says Victoria Cartwright, from the ColorCode art team. “Toner is crucial to counteract these unwanted tones.

Stylists have a tendency to either panic and remove the toner early, because of the look of the colour during development, or to underestimate the importance of leaving toner on for the full time.”

Think of toner as colour insurance, it means that the final look is as pure as it can possibly be. “Plus, silver hair looks better against natural tones when a toner is applied and it evens out any previous, uneven colour,” adds Tracey Devine Smith, ASP global ambassador.

The price of silver Silver hair is an investment and it’s important to leave your clients with all the tools they need to maintain the colour at home. Tim Scott Wright, Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador and owner of The Hair Surgery says: “I recommend colour conditioning masks and colour depositing shampoos. Schwarzkopf Professional even does an Igora Colour Mousse which clients can take home – the 9.5-1 would be the best for maintaining a silver shade.”

Tracy Hayes, Fudge Professional global head of technical training makes sure her clients are looking after not just their colour, but the health of their hair too. “As the hair will have been bleached, I always recommend a nourishing shampoo and conditioner,” she explains. “Clients can also use a blonde or platinum specific shampoo to keep unwanted yellow tones at bay.” Make sure your clients aren’t using a purple pigmented shampoo too often as this will leave a purple colour deposit. Clients need to treat their new hair colour with the kind of respect a precious metal truly deserves.

“Silver platinum, ice grey and gunmetal all work really well on warm skin tones.”

Dan Rice for L’Oréal Professionnel 29 / hji.co.uk

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I

t’s not surprising that January and February are the two months of the year with the lowest number of appointment bookings for UK hair salons*. Your clients have already spent their hard-earned cash on looking good for the Christmas party season and will need to use their first new year pay cheque to cover the credit card bills for all of those presents bought for loved ones in December.

On the flip side, a new year can bring with it a new set of clients who want to make positive changes to their lives and are ready and waiting to be inspired by a fresh new look.

Now is the time to review your in-salon Koleston Perfect ME+ shade assortment and colour services to attract new clients into your salon. You can also tap into your existing client base who don’t have as much money to spend in January but would like to shake up their look for 2020. Here are the services to experiment with in January and February 2020…

The service: No Strings Attached Colour by Wella Professionals For colour first timers or trend experimenters, this low-commitment glossing service with a 10-minute development time will fit into everyone’s wallet and every hairdresser’s column. It is perfect to drive recruitment in your salon as well as driving frequency of visits.

What you need: 1 part Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+, 1 part Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer, 1 part Wella Professionals INVIGO Post Color Treatment.

The service: Deluxe Regrowth If your client wants a new but subtle change for 2020, suggest the Deluxe Regrowth service as it will enhance a current colour without it being a big colour correction. You can play with different tonal characteristics such as a warmer tint versus a cooler hair line to accentuate facial features. Similarly, finer hair can appear to be thicker by the colour you place around the hairline such as a darker hairline shade.

The service: Layered veil This service is for a client who wants to create dimension with lighter ends or a soft colour transition for natural or pre-coloured hair. Consider carrying out this service for root stretch and balayage toning clients to give an on-trend face framing colour result.

Contact your Wella Professionals sales rep or call your local Wella Studio: LONDON: +44 20 3650 4700 and MANCHESTER: +44 161 8342645 or discover the products at uk.wellastore.com.

Book your face-to-face studio and online education at education.wella.com. @wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt.

Wella Professionals @WellaUK 31 / hji.co.uk

CUTTING EDGE Ruffians Launch Product Line

All of the latest men’s hairdressing news to help you improve your grooming game

The Ruffians team has unveiled its first range of hair styling and grooming products.

Launching with five hair styling products, a shampoo and conditioner, plus a beard oil, the range was developed using Ruffians’ barber expertise and the finest ingredients.

“We have never been afraid to disrupt our industry and consider every detail with fresh thinking,” explains Andrew Cannon, Ruffians co-founder and managing director.

“Our products are no different. We know from eight years of onthe-ground experience and half a million haircuts what our customers want.”

THE WINNERS ARE CROWNED Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter were announced as HJ’s Men’s Hairdressers of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional in November. The winning collection saw them beat off stiff competition from leading members of the male hairdressing and barbering industry. Turn the page to see the collection.

32%

of men said their barber was their top source of hair inspo, a survey by grooming brand Heist of London found.

The beard trend shows no sign of slowing so keep clients well-groomed with these products:

THREE OF THE BEST

1 2 American Crew 2-in-1 Skin Moisturizer & Beard Conditioner – £14

32 / hji.co.uk

The Bluebeards Revenge Classic Blend Beard Oil (50ml) – £9.99

3 Uppercut Deluxe Beard Balm – £13

REBELLIOUS BEAUTY The winning collection from HJ’s Men’s Hairdressers of the Year 2019 33 / hji.co.uk

Hair: Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter Make-up: Roseanna Velin Styling: Jim Shaw Photography: Tony Le Britton

“In this collection the diverse styles show a multitude of skill and technique. The collection celebrates classic and contemporary men’s hairdressing and the styling and lighting puts the emphasis on the hair.”

Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter 34 / hji.co.uk

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy is the longest running live hairdressing competition in the world.

Celebrating 65 years, we are dedicated to all that is great in our industry – the artistry, the mastery and most importantly YOUR talent.

Now 111 years old, L’Oréal Professionnel was founded on professional hair colour, advancing the boundaries of breakthrough innovation and pushing the industry forward.

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy invites you to make your mark in 2020 by entering this historic year of the competition.

This is history in colour.

This is your life in colour.

ENTER NOW ONLINE* LOREALCOLOURTROPHY.COM Deadline for entries: 24th February 2020, 5pm Make sure you consult the rules within the competition Terms and Conditions!

*Open to UK residents aged 16+ (and up to aged 25 for the STAR award category) entering as part of a salon team (except for the College award category where entrants must not be working in a salon and can be ROI residents). One entry per individual across all categories. Entries must be uploaded onto www.lorealcolourtrophy.com by 24/02/20. Must use only L’Oréal Professionnel products, entry photos must be in colour and no more than one year old. Winning team (or individual in the case of the College Award category) receives the 2020 Award for the relevant category and the chance to attend other hairdressing events/trips dependent on category.

See www.lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and T&Cs. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.

@LOREALPRO #LCT20 #LOREALPROUK

Image: UK Grand Final 2019 Hair by: Jo Cree Brown, Creative Director, Special Projects for Trevor Sorbie International

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

Aura A collection of standalone images

38 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

“This collection is about creating eight individual images that represent timeless beauty.

I design most of the looks on the day when I see the clothes, the models and lighting. I really wanted a collection of individual images that also work as standalone pictures.

There is movement and textures that are combined with the clothes, the model and the moment.

Each image is individual – each image is its own image.”

Sally Brooks

39 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

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PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

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PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

Hair: Sally Brooks, Brooks & Brooks, London Make-up: Violet Zeng Styling: Ann Shore Photography: Jenny Hands

42 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

43 / hji.co.uk

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 10 -12 OCTOBER 2020 PRESENTED BY

SAVE THE DATE

JOIN US IN Register your interest now for 2020 Earlybird tickets www.salonshow.co.uk/registeryourinterest

#Salon20

HAIR: HOOKER & YOUNG ART TEAM PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL YOUNG

2020

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

LIT Be inspired by the people around you

46 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

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PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

“I wanted to create a collection that showcased my career, the people who have inspired me and everything and everyone that has made my career what it is.”

Adam Reed

48 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

49 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

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PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

Hair: Adam Reed Make-up: Vincent Ford for Nars Styling: Martha Thorpe Photography: Cameron McNee

51 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

New Britannia Playful yet powerful

52 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

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PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

54 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

“Inspired by research that predicts how the human race could evolve over the next 30 years, New Britannia is a celebration of diversity in the modern world. Playful yet powerful, my collection pays homage to the versatility and beauty of mixedrace hair, juxtaposing textures and exaggerated silhouettes with classic cuts and techniques.

Influenced by the elegant glamour of Cecil Beaton, the looks showcase a melting pot of cultures and remind us that beauty in Britain today is progressive and all-encompassing.�

Errol Douglas, MBE 55 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

Hair: Errol Douglas MBE for Bellami Professional Make-up: Lans Nguyen Grealis Styling: ED:it Photography: Richard Miles

56 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

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MONDAY, 29TH JUNE 2020 | LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE

ENTER NOW CELEBRATE SUCCESS Enter now at www.hji.co.uk/hjs-british-hairdressing-business-awards or contact Lizzi Diggins at 020 3841 7365 SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown at 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk

#BHBA20

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

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FASHION

DIVERSITY Inspired by hairdressers and created for clients to celebrate individuality

61 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“This collection is about embracing differences. It is about accepting, loving and respecting ourselves just as we are. Every little detail makes us unique, authentic and rare. In a society that dictates what is beautiful and what is right, we decide to trace our own path. This path is perfectly balanced between what is imposed and what we identify with. Diversity is inclusion, diversity is you.�

Pete Burkill, UK Creative Ambassador Alter Ego, Italy

62 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Leonardo Rizzo (Alter Ego Italy international creative director), Pete Burkill, Stefano Nizzi, Axel Torraco, Ross Charles, Mario Farinelli (Diversity Collection technical director), Federica Galdini, Andrea Pettenuzzo, Issie Churcher and Rudi Rizzo Make-up: Naoko Scintu Styling: LC Styling Photography: Andrew O’Toole

63 / hji.co.uk

In association with

LIVE EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

Education, inspiration

2020 TRENDS | SAVE ££ FOR YOUR BUSINESS | BE INSPIRED | FREE LIVE STAGES

Enter promo code HJMAG2 for a chance to win £250 to spend at the show

Hair: Mark Leeson Photography: Richard Miles Make up: Nikki Wolff Fashion Styling: M&R Products: Revlon Professional

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@HJLiveUK

FASHION

EVOLVE The FAME Team’s vision for the future of hair

66 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“This collection was inspired by the individual creativity of four fantastic young people, bringing their artistic minds together to create a fusion of textures, shapes and structures in the hair. Their camaraderie was inspiring, and their combined skills brought to life an exciting vision of the future of hair.�

Errol Douglas MBE and FAME Team 2019

67 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing FAME Team 2019; Lora Griffin, Tania Faenza, Ashley Cockrell and Alastair Jubbs Creative direction: Errol Douglas MBE Make-up: Branka Vorkapic Styling: Desiree Lederer Photography: Barry Jeffery

68 / hji.co.uk

“I was amazed at how much of a standard formula mixture was wasted! Many clients only require HALF.” -Alishia O’Hare, Luxe Color Lounge

Less waste.

More profit.

Designed by leading colourists, Vish is a complete colour management system – Helping salons eliminate waste, ensure consistent pricing, track inventory, and maximize profit.

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COVERS ALL ASPECTS OF HAIR STYLING, BARBERING AND BEAUTY INSURANCE PACKAGES FOR: •Self-employed hairdressers •Hair stylists • Salon owners•Beauty therapists•Teacher training STUDENT POLICY NOW AVAILABLE FOR JUST

SALON INSURANCE FROM £132 PER YEAR

£20

• £6m Public, Products & Treatment Liability • £10m Employers Liability • Advanced Treatment cover available • Business Interruption, Money and Glass cover included • Variable Buildings and Contents cover • Free subscription to Hairdressers Journal International magazine

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T HE HOT LIST

Guilt-free haircare

Lighten up

Refresh and revive

AlterEgo Italy has launched a 100% vegan Lengths Collection which is made up of four different targeted ranges – Colour, Repair, Hydrate and Silver Maintain.

ASP Affinage Salon Professional System Blonde Anti-Yellow Lightening Additive lifts dark blondes to lighter bases. It gives a white blonde finish without having to tone the hair after colouring.

Revive dull hair with Young.

Again Dry Conditioner by Kevin Murphy. It infuses hair with moisture between washes to recreate a freshly blow-dried texture. RRP £24

Colour that cares

Five-minute miracles

Brush up

Yellow by Alfaparf Group has launched a permanent colour range that features 74 shades and tones. Each dye contains argan oil which helps to deliver glowing colour and shine.

The three unique formulas in the R+Co Concentrate range protect colour, add volume and repair hair.

The fast-acting treatments can be used in the salon as an add-on service.

Great Lengths has launched a range of hairbrushes which include paddle, oval and finishing brushes. The brushes are designed for all hair types, including extensions and wigs. From £7.50

Move over frizz

High shine

Invisible volume

Ideal for rescuing damaged hair, Moo Miracle Shampoo and Conditioner features 100% pure marula oil, no sulphates or parabens and it is fragrance-free.

RRP £22

Make Me Shine Gloss from Eleven Australia is a weightless finishing spray that smooths all hair types and textures, locking in high gloss and adding instant shine to any look. RRP £16

The SECRETS range from Hairdreams are invisible tape extensions with 13 colour options, which are perfect if your client wants thicker, natural-looking hair.

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Hair up hack

Package rehaul

Fresh powder

Designed to thicken and add volume to thin hair, Loxbox Extensions Mini Taped Wavy come in 10 natural colours and are ideal for updo services.

From £60

L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel has received a packaging makeover so it is easier than ever to navigate the iconic colour range. It features the brand’s signature Ionène G and Incell advanced technologies.

Two new products have been added to the Maria Nila Style & Finish range. The Power Powder and Cleansing Powder add volume and refresh hair respectively.

Available from Salon Services.

Lavender lather

Summer throwback

Waves for days

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint seven-piece range calms curls and coils. Infused with monoi and jojoba oils, the products help to nourish hair and fight frizz.

Infused with mineral salts, Matrix Style Link Mineral Rough Me Up Salt Infused Spray creates effortless tousled beach waves when spritzed on damp or dry hair.

RRP £11.50

Featuring three tourmaline ceramic barrels the Amika High Tide Deep Waver creates beautiful beachy waves. The negative ion technology seals the hair cuticle to give a smooth and chic finish.

Colour safe

No ‘poo

Bespoke blonde

Guy Tang Mydentity #MyConfidant Shampoo and Conditioner is a colour-securing care range that prolongs colour tone and vibrancy for up to 50 shampoos.

Hairstory New Wash (Rich) is a shampoo-free cleanser ideal for Afro hair and clients with thicker locks. The product sits in new packaging which uses 63% less plastic. RRP £44

OSMO Blonde Elevation range includes a violet lightening powder, freehand clay additive and four colour additives which help to neutralise unwanted tones and create a clean base.

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INTERIORS

ELENA’S TOP TIPS • Always represent the brand Focus your refit on preserving the core beliefs and design aims of your brand image.

• Communicate with clients Talk to your customers to see what they like and dislike before you start renovating or designing a new interior space.

• Be a salon spy Visit other salons to seek inspiration and notice the small details on your journey.

THE SELF-CARE

SALON New wellness concept Linnaean features a hair salon, beauty spa and café/restaurant – all under one roof in London’s Nine Elms 74 / hji.co.uk

INTERIORS

L

innaean in Nine Elms, London is best described as a salon dedicated to self-care. With hairdressing, beauty and wellness experts all in one space, Linnaean’s aim is to help clients navigate modern life while putting their health and happiness first.

“Contemporary life is filled with negative as well as positive disruption,” the owner of Linnaean, Elena Tayleur explains. “We go through constant changes – these can herald opportunities, but they can also make us feel overwhelmed. At Linnaean we help our guests keep up with modern life by making them feel balanced.”

Elena was drawn to the premises due to its unique location. Nine Elms is fast becoming an area of regeneration. Thanks to the new US Embassy and nearby Battersea Power Station redevelopment, a new wealthy international community is right on the doorstep.

Split across two floors, Linnaean boasts a hair salon, beauty treatment rooms, manicure and pedicure stations, retail area as well as a standalone café. The salon’s colour scheme is a contrasting palette of greens and soft coral shades, which makes the whole space feel bright and modern. Limed timber, rattan and woven leather bring a tactile element to the design, while vibrant ceramic tiles and terrazzo stone keep the look refreshing and contemporary.

Soft upholstery featuring botanic motifs provide a nod to Linnaean’s distinctive heritage and contemporary artwork by female artists complete the look. The hair salon also features a glamorous secret corner that holds a colour cocktail bar. The 1920s-inspired colour bar brings the salon’s Goldwell colour creations to life. “Our technicians love the glamour it brings to mixing colour,” adds Elena.

The interior took a year of architectural and design planning and four months of construction, as the team worked with sustainable design consultants, engineers and architects to ensure a high standard was reached. The design was in Martin Brudnizki’s safe hands as he is the international interior architect who designed iconic spaces such as Annabel’s London and The Ivy. Named after 18th century Swedish naturalist and taxonomist Carl Linnaeus, Elena’s aim is to nourish, adapt and grow her clients’ bodies and minds. This is a salon that takes a 360° approach to self-care – just what’s needed in 2020 and beyond.

Name: Linnaean Address: 2 New Union Square, Embassy Gardens, London Owner: Elena Tayleur Size: 4,500 sq ft How long have you been in the premises: Since September 2019 How many staff: Eight stylists and four front of house staff Design: Martin Brudnizki Design Studio 75 / hji.co.uk

I N - S A L O N

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I N - S T O R E

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O N L I N E

Try it

Visit one of our Furniture Showrooms today Southampton Furniture Showroom Bond Street, Southampton, SO14 5QA | 0844 3356 121 Gloucester Furniture Showroom 8QLW 7X H\ 3DUN /RZHU 7X H\ /DQH *ORXFHVWHU */ '3 _ 01452 383383

CAREERS

Sharon Malcolm

The Belfast Business Woman The Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Hair at the British Hairdressing Awards 2019 gives an insight into running a successful hair business in Belfast What was your route into hair?

I always knew I wanted to be a hairdresser. I loved school but didn’t want to carry on studying so I worked part time in a local salon. I loved every minute and attended as much training as I could – I was like a sponge. Even now I attend as many courses as I can. I worked at several local salons and moved to Belfast to get experience of working in a big salon. In 2000 I opened my own salon in the heart of a town called Newtownards in Northern Ireland. I started with a team of five and now we are a team of 11.

What are the pros and cons of your role?

Hairdressing is a hard job – long hours and being a business owner has its ups and downs. When the going gets tough you have to remember you are doing something you love and something that makes you happy.

It’s very true that when you are selfemployed, hairdressing isn’t just a job. It’s your life as you eat, sleep and breathe hair. However, it’s important to have a work/life balance and I’m grateful I have that. You have to be mindful of the unexpected when you are a salon owner as it brings many rewards but it also has its challenges.

What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

What are your tips for someone aspiring to have a career like yours?

There are people who just love their job and go home at the end of the day and there is nothing wrong with that.

Building your name in the industry is not about ego – it’s about passion and wanting to share what you love. Most importantly, stay humble, work hard, have respect and be grateful for what you have achieved.

Be prepared to work hard, keep your focus and don’t get distracted. Be a good listener and team player and watch and learn as much as you can.

What has been the biggest challenge you’ve faced in your career so far?

I’m sure the challenges I have faced are the same as many salon owners – recession, recruiting and juggling the business side with the creative side.

What’s your proudest moment in your career?

I’m really proud to have just won Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year 2019 at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Winning Best Regional Salon in the HAIR Awards and Independent Salon - Business Newcomer at the British Hairdressing Business Awards in 2002 were both proud moments. We’ve also won numerous regional business awards and I’m incredibly proud of my team.

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What Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration?

I follow other hairdressers like @guidopalau, @robertlobetta and @patrickcameron and fashion brands such as @voguemag.

What’s your styling philosophy?

I construct to deconstruct as I love beautifully undone hair.

What are your go-to products?

A good shampoo and conditioner is the foundation for any hairstyle and I couldn’t live without my Patrick Cameron Brush!

If you could change one thing about the hairdressing industry what would it be?

I’d lower the VAT as it can be crippling for small businesses.

What’s next for your career?

I want to be the first woman to win Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year three times.

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round.

NAL

RNATIO NAL INTEER SERS JOUR SS HAIRDRES TODAY’S HAIRDRE INSPIRING

Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 50% off seminars and selected conferences 20% off Salon International tickets Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward.

In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

THE HOT TICKETS FOR

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Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DX. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media.

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RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376

Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Wanted front of house team member for a bustling Chelsea beauty salon.

As the front of house you are the face of the establishment and as such require excellent customer service and professionalism.

Managing front of house entails: O Hosting the salon floor.

O Always presenting professionally and punctually.

O Securing and controlling the bookings.

O Detailing administration duties.

O Providing excellent customer service.

O Maintaining daily communications.

O Booking meetings.

O Directing staff on day to day operations.

JOBS

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

Wanted Colourists team members for a bustling Chelsea salon.

Wanted Stylists team members for a bustling Chelsea salon.

We are hiring excellent Stylists, Colorists and All-rounders. You are required to be highly professional and passionate about your job and be a great team player.

We are hiring excellent Stylists, Colorists and All-rounders. You are required to be highly professional and passionate about your job and be a great team player.

Please apply with your CV’s to info@vinokurov.co.uk and have your interview and trade test arranged asap.

We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you soon!

Please apply with your CV’s to info@vinokurov.co.uk and have your interview and trade test arranged asap.

We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you soon!

FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE

jobs.hji.co.uk/register

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RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA

0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk

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CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

PROPERTY

JOBS

Addlestone area. Freehold Shop Premises with Hair Salon. Very Smart Ground Floor Lock Up Unit. £1,750wk Five days.

Retirement Sale. £280,000 F’hold Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk.

High profit. £65,000 Guildford area. High Class Salon. Quality fitted throughout. 12 styling positions. £5,000wk (5 days). Good profits. Owner retiring. £45,000 (or £395,000 Freehold) Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. £4,200wk (5 days). A/C’s show £38,000 Net. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Newbury area. Very Smart Hair and Beauty. Good Lease. Superb location. £4,250wk. Very fairly priced £29,950.

Reading area. Old Established Hair Salon. Good Class Area. Lease. Spacious Salon. Eleven styling positions. £2,500wk (5 days). Retirement Sale. £35,000 Wye Valley Country Town. Flagship Salon. Main street. Spacious Well Fitted Unit. Two Bed Flat. Tde £5,500wk (ex VAT). 5 days. £495,000 F’hold

FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY

WANT TO ADVERTISE YOUR PRODUCTS & SERVICES? Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk

Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

Hairdressers Journal International

has a print circulation of 12,000 copies

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GROUP

Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE jobs.hji.co.uk/register Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/

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INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens T Pushing boundaries “This style was created for artist Julie Verhoeven and in collaboration with my friend, John Vial. Such fun!

We used contrasting yellow, blonde and grey to create an ‘egg on the head’ look.”

V H \ D +

\ F D U 7

The global head of technical training for Fudge Professional creates world class colouring techniques with a sharp, fashion edge. Here are six of her favourite hair creations W Full circle “This image was for the new Fudge Professional Headpaint Gel Toner campaign. Part of my role is to develop the professional colour range and this shot incorporated the three new toners in a beautiful fresh blonde, icy white and rose quartz look. It’s great to see how my role goes full circle from the R&D to the marketing of the product.”

X Carnival fever “It’s always fun collaborating with accessories designer, Fred Butler. She loves colour and this particular look was for the Notting Hill Carnival. I used the Fudge Professional Paintbox in its purest form with the bright pigments to create a colour spectrum in the full colour wheel.”

S Perfect match “This image was created with Fred Butler. The inspiration for the colour palette came from a collaboration with sportswear company LuluLemon and designer Roksanda Illinic for a new yoga range. We matched the hair colours to the outfit colour tones.”

T (ŦRUWOHVV EHDXW\ “A few years ago, I relaunched the iconic Fudge Professional Paintbox range and this was one of the images we shot to promote it. I created pastel forms from the range to encompass the whole colour spectrum. This image is in its purest form and shows effortless beauty.”

X Oil in water “When I was freelancing, I spent some fabulous time working with the talented Richard Ashforth and the Saco team. Here’s a shot we created together and the inspiration behind it was oil. The finished look is a fusion of blue, green and yellow tones.”

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2HJ50

EXPERIENCE THE CALM. LOVE YOUR CURLS. Introducing a new Lavender Mint collection for all types of curls.

Infused with monoi, pequi and jojoba oils to nourish hair and help fight frizz, this hydrating regimen provides essential moisture to help tame waves, curls and coils, and leaves textured hair healthy and conditioned.

Available from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011