Hairdressers Journal July 2019

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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

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CONTENTS

July 2019 News

10

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

14

Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels

Business

20

Price is Right Set the correct price for your salon services

21

Loyalty Pays Use your clients as a marketing tool

22

Business Panel Discover how to boost productivity in the salon

24

The Debate Should you hire an accountant?

25

Forty Brilliant Years One salon speaks to its longest-serving clients

Features

27

Extensions for All Our Extensions Special takes a look at how the extensions market has expanded in recent years

43

Sharing is Caring Salons are creating programmes to help fellow hair salons

48

Fashion Eight exclusive fashion collections

89

Get the Look Create a sunkissed blonde with Larisa Love

Regulars

26

Membership Offer Two members will have the chance to win an Angel En Provence set worth £50

SHANE HENNING

Inspiration

56

93

The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month

100

Careers Step inside the mind of Trevor Sorbie’s artistic director

97

Interiors The new Duck & Dry in Mayfair is fun and fabulous

106

Life Through a Lens Marc Antoni’s Bruno Marc shares six of his favourite images

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EDITOR’S LETTER

DUCK & DR Y

27

RACOON

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

Managing Director Mark Moloney

97 Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

We l c o m e

T

he Hair and Barber Council published the British hairdressing and beauty industry’s first ever economic report last month. It found all of you are collectively contributing an incredible £6.6 billion to the UK economy. In fact, the gross value added per worker in the UK was estimated to be £19,398 in 2017 with hair and beauty salons making up almost a tenth (8%) of the total retail sector. This means as an industry you are in a prime position to shout about what you want – whether it is mandatory licencing and regulation or lower business rates. The Hair and Barber Council hopes the report will help its bid to regulate the industry and make the sector part of the Creative Industries Sector Deal. It could also lead to hair and beauty careers advice being readily available to young people. The Labour Party has promised to include the hair and beauty industry within its next manifesto, which is a fantastic start. To find out more about the report and to make your voice heard, go to haircouncil.org.uk. Productivity is the secret to generating more money for yourself and your salon. This month’s business panel share their tips on boosting efficiency. A number of salons are sharing their education with other salon teams throughout the UK. Discover how you could get involved on page 43. Plus, our in-depth report on the extensions market on page 27, reveals the types of client who could benefit from an extensions service and the latest products to On the cover: offer them. Hair: Wahl Style Team Enjoy the issue and we’ll see (Joshua Goldsworthy, you next month!

Sophie Gibson, James Nicklin, Alex Morton, Jonathan Turner and Diana Carson) Art Direction: Hooker & Young Make-up: Kirsten Baillie Photography: Michael Young 7 / hji.co.uk

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377 Intern Michelle Sarkisyan

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536



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NEWS

INDUSTRY NEWS The UK Hair Industry is Worth £6 billion The hair and beauty industry is worth £6.6 billion to the UK economy a report by the Hair and Barber Council and BABTAC (British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology) has found. This equates to at least 8% of the total retail sector and highlights the significance of the industry within the UK. The report states how much money the industry brings to the UK. It also highlights the need for mandatory licencing to ensure high standards and adequate protection is given to consumers now and in the future.

The Labour Party has since announced it will include the hair and beauty industry in its manifesto. Keith Conniford, the Hair and Barber Council’s CEO said: “This report has given us all the information successive governments have asked for and has pushed our cause higher up the political agenda. To be contacted by the Labour Party is a huge step forward for our cause to making voluntary state registration mandatory and giving the industry the recognition it deserves.” For more details about the new report go to hji.co.uk.

National Living Wage 2020 Update

Goldwell Color Zoom UK Finalists

The National Living Wage could be set to increase in 2020. Since the National Living Wage was introduced in 2016, the rate for 25-year-olds and over has risen by £1 per hour from £7.20 in April 2016 to £8.21 in April 2019. It is expected the rate will go up to £8.67 per hour in April 2020 with a rise of more than 5%. Wage increases have coincided with higher contributions to the pensions auto-enrolment scheme over the past two years. The National Hairdressers Federation (NHF) explains this has put a strain on salon owners’ costs. The government is considering further large rises beyond 2020, reaching £9.61 per hour, but the timescales are not yet clear. A rate of £9.61 would make the UK’s rates the highest in the world.

G

oldwell announced the finalists for its UK Goldwell Color Zoom competition last month. The finalists were chosen by a judging panel that included Sally Brooks, Jean Baptiste Mazella and HJ’s editor Laura Husband. The 2019 REMIX theme inspired the finalists to create bright and bold Pop Art looks. The Color Zoom UK final takes place at Printworks, London on 28 July. The winners will go to Vienna in September to compete at the international live final. The categories include New Talent Colorist, Creative Colorist and Partner Colorist. Go to hji.co.uk to see the full list of finalists.

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NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates The Fellowship’s New Chancellor

L’Oréal ID Artist Auditions Open L

’Oréal Professionnel has announced its summer audition dates for this year’s ID Artist Programme. Launched in 2003, L’Oréal Professionnel has helped develop over 200 hairdressers. ID Artists are given world-class education by some of the leading names in the hairdressing industry. The two-year talent development programme features two weeks of education and once in a lifetime opportunities, such as assisting

Ashleigh Hodges is The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s new chancellor. She will be a key decision maker for Fellowship events and will be responsible for growing the membership and sharing the direction of the organisation as it continues to move forward and progress. Ashleigh said: “I am so excited to be elected chancellor. I’ve been working with the Fellowship for so many years and I feel we are really at a pivotal point of growth. I’m so excited not only to be a part of that but to be able to make my mark on it too.”

backstage at fashion week. To enter the programme this year, you must be selected from one of the seven regional auditions. There are two programmes to choose from when auditioning to become an ID Artist – Session & Cutting or Artistic Colour. Regional auditions are taking place from 30 June to 22 July. Go to hji.co.uk to find out the specific dates for your region.

Gentlemen’s Choice for SS20 The shows at London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 presented a variety of wearable and fresh looks

Graphic buzzcut

1950s classic quiff

Soft curls

Sleek slick back

With bold colour placement the buzzcuts at Iceberg, created by John Vial for Revlon Professional, put a fresh spin on a classic cut.

This side-parted style is a mid-century throwback. At the HLA x AED by JD.com show, Narad Kutowaroo for Brendan O’Sullivan used GO247 to create the look.

The loose waves from Band of Outsiders were created by Toni & Guy’s artistic director Dexter Dapper Johnson. This summery style is sure to be a client hit.

A slicked back look with very little volume was crafted by Mari Ohashi at LGA Management using Fudge Professional for the Craig Green show.

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NEWS

NHF Photographic Competition Opens The NHF/NBF’s Photographic Image of the Year competition is encouraging hairstylists, barbers, beauty therapists and make-up artists of all levels to enter this year. Entrants must submit a show-stopping image or collection of images that are suitable for publication. The categories include male fashion look (single image), male fashion look (collection), female fashion look (single image) and female fashion look (collection). Go to nhf.info/ photographic to submit an entry before 6 September.

New Authentic Ambassador Joseph Ferraro is the new ambassador for Henkel’s styling and care brand – Authentic Beauty Concept. Joseph owns two salons in Yorkshire with a team of 15 stylists and colourists. “Authentic Beauty Concept reflects my approach to fresh and modern beauty,” Joseph explained. “The honest no-nonsense take on products feels refreshing and relevant. I’m looking forward to working with the range in the salon and on set.”

FAME Team 2020 Applications T

he Fellowship for British Hairdressing is on the hunt for new members to create its FAME Team for 2020. Applicants must be under 35 on 1 January 2020 and must be a Fellowship member or working in a Fellowship Member’s salon. The candidate must be fully qualified and have at least three

years’ experience. To enter, complete an application form and create a video before 28 June 2019. Part of the competition will be at Salon International on 7 October 2019. The winning team will be announced at the Fellowship Luncheon and Awards on 2 December 2019.

Wella Xposure and Eugene Live Wella Professionals Xposure competition for hairdressing students took place at the Wella Studio on 3 June. The 32 finalists were shortlisted from hundreds of photographic entries for creating a commercial cut and colour look. The first stage winners went to the Xposure 2019 Regional Heats around the UK. Finalists were asked to style their model at the Wella Studio for a catwalk show in front of Wella’s judges, which included Nicky Clarke, Jordanna Cobella and Angelo Vallillo. The Wella Studio also held an exclusive live event with Eugene Souleiman last month. A handful of lucky guests, including HJ, were given the opportunity to get inside his genius mind and watch him reimagine three of his most memorable catwalk looks.

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7 New SKP Collective Members Schwarzkopf Professional’s SKP Collective has announced a new team of digital influencers. The goal of SKP Collective is to help the stylist and their salon promote their skills, business offering and the Schwarzkopf Professional brand via social media. The new additions to the team are: Chris Tranter (Ed & Co), Christopher Laird (Hair by Christopher Laird), Rebecca Jacques (Bad Apple Hair), Mat Watt (Mathew Watt), Justin Mackland (Ishoka), Sam Marais (Urban Hair) and Mimi Kobayashi (Billi Currie).


SPONSORED BRANDS Rush Hair Celebrates 25 Years in the Industry Rush Hair opened its first salon in Wimbledon 25 years ago and plans to open more salons throughout the UK to mark its 25th anniversary. The brand has over 100 salons across the UK and has won multiple awards. Co-founders and joint CEOs Andy Phouli and Stell Andrew said: “We love working with the different sectors of our business. We work closely with the entire team to make sure they have their own individual Rush journey and to ensure they feel part of our future plans.”

Three Hair Industry-Led Charity Projects Three hairdressing initiatives are helping those in need this month: • Salon Supplies, the UK’s exclusive supplier of furniture brand Pietranera, is donating 2.5% of all its Pietranera sales in 2019 to the Hairdressers’ Charity. Go to salonsupplies.co.uk for more information about this initiative. • Prostate Cancer UK’s staff have received a five-star treatment from Jacks of London, which marks the beginning of a year-long partnership between the salon chain and the Prostate Cancer UK charity. • Salon software company iSalon completed the Three Peaks Challenge and raised £1,150 for The Pituitary Foundation, which is a patient support organisation offering expert medical help and information on a range of pituitary diseases.

EXTENSIONS BRAND SEEKS NEW UK SALON PARTNERS air extensions brand Diva H Maker is seeking salon partners to offer the Diva Collection to their client base. Diva Maker prides itself on offering 100% pure and natural human hair. The brand’s products contain no animal or artificial fibres and are not subject to any chemical processing. Other features include a herbal base treatment for colour and processing and the extensions offer excellent colour interchange. The Diva Collection has a number of benefits that clients will love – the extensions are tangle-free, shed-free, contain no silicone, are reusable and can last up to three years. The brand’s European distribution point is from Sweden and the brand offers distributors and re-sellers a good profit margin and support to help maximise their extensions business within local markets. Email info@divamaker4you.com or visit divamaker4you.com for more information.

QUALITY WIGS FOR SALON CLIENTS

M

andeville London has a heritage of over 50 years and has established a reputation for producing wigs of the highest quality. Made from ethicallysourced European hair and created using a hand-knotting technique, each wig boasts up to 70,000 natural hairs. Mandeville London ensures all of its wigs look, feel and move like a client’s own hair. The brand’s Ready Made collection of wigs comes in a choice of 11 shades that can be fitted, cut and styled for the client. Clients can choose from a full wig or a half wig, depending on their specific needs. For those who want a more bespoke service, Mandeville London presents its Made to Measure collection. Each wig is created entirely to order for the individual, based on their needs when it comes to length, texture and colour. For more information, UK-based salon owners can call Mandeville London on 020 7386 5988, email contact@mandevillelondon.com or visit mandevillelondon.com.

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JOHN TWINE/DAILY MAIL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

The Hair Historian Hijack I t’s always great to be ahead of the trends and find out what the next ‘it’ look will be. However sometimes it’s good to look back. HJ’s Hair Historian Hijack delves

into the archives and examines the trends of the past with Instagram’s Hair Historian, Rachael Gibson. You can see the hijacks on our site and Instagram feed every fortnight.

Pinterest Heaven A big, fresh batch of hair-related pins have dropped on Pinterest so make sure you are following us for an abundance of inspiration for your clients! Find us at pinterest.co.uk/ hjinteractive.

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@hji

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

@hjinteractive

Social Shout Out

@thehairhistorian Rachael really finds some gems when she goes through the hairdressing archives. I love seeing trends and images I haven’t seen before! Akesha, digital editor

REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Totally Transformed makes everyone SWeummer want to change their hair. aren’t complaining as celebrities such as Riverdale’s Lucy Hale (pictured) are creating new trends for willing salon clients. See the transformations on hji.co.uk now.

@deeparkerattwood_ The 2019 Australian Hairdresser of the Year at the Hair Expo Awards shares how to create this sparkling crystal cap on her feed. Laura, HJ editor

T S I L T R O H S 9 1 A #BHB The shortlist for HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards and British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional will be announced this month so keep your eyes on our website and social channels to be the first to know. 15 / hji.co.uk

@tuckwellcohair Follow Tuckwell & Co Hair’s Instagram page for an insight into the day-to-day life of a new artisan salon. Charlotte, content editor


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IS YOUR SALON READY FOR THE FUTURE? HJ goes on the L’Oréal Professional Products Division Salon Emotion Transformation Roadshow 2019 tour to discover the business-critical knowledge salons need to future-proof their business in the new digital age

D

igital innovation is shaking up the professional hairdressing industry with salons being able to target potential customers through multiple online and offline channels at any time of the day or night. If you want to run a successful business in today’s world, you need to stay ahead of the game. L’Oréal Professional Products Division, including L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken, Matrix, Kérastase and Pulp Riot (to name

just a few out of the 11 brands in the division), invited selected salons to expand the business skills required for running a successful salon in 2019 by taking its interactive and educational event across the UK and Ireland. Plus, invited salons* leave the event with a bespoke action plan on how to make changes in the salon, starting today! What is Salon Emotion? The aim of Salon Emotion is to upskill 18 / hji.co.uk

salons on how to modernise their salon space and elevate the consumer experience to make it more enticing for new and potential customers. The intimate and interactive event gives selected salons* a unique opportunity to improve the seven core steps that define the perfect customer journey. Here are just a few of the key points HJ took away from the Salon Emotion UK roadshow, which is six months into its journey…


It’s important to be customer-centric You will always give clients an amazing experience when they arrive in your salon, but is this what your clients are saying in the digital space when they review their experience? Ask your clients about their journey from the salon window, reception desk to the backwash and onto the stylist’s chair. Look at the facts and use your client’s feedback to identify gaps and keep your clients coming back. Get ready for the digital transformation As digital natives become an increasingly large part of any salon’s client base, it’s important to ensure your salon is equipped with the tools to make accessing your business online a breeze. The Salon Emotion Roadshow provided tips and tricks to help attendees get to the forefront of a client’s online search – and you don’t need to be a tech whizz because the roadshow decodes it all! Get to know your future clientele The future-proof advice shared wasn’t just about the near future. Your salon might work for today’s client but what about tomorrow’s clients? Attendees were HJ will be shown the needsharing the to-know statistics about the future action live on our generations Instagram stories of consumers, helping salons on 10 September to make key from London! decisions that will prepare them for the future. Become socially savvy It’s never been more important to be up-to-date with the latest salon-friendly apps and to have a presence on key social media channels. This popular section of the roadshow advised delegates on the benefits of implementing a social media strategy. L’Oréal Professional Products Division’s digital team gave insights on what will make your business stand out on social channels. There’s a lot of useful information but salons aren’t expected to remember *

everything on the day. Each section of the roadshow is supported by short videos so salons can digest and share with the rest of the salon team afterwards. Leave the day with a concrete action plan The event fully immerses the salon into the world of today with a customer-centric approach. Salons benefit from concrete success stories and a comprehensive toolbox, which empowers you to implement changes that will benefit and future-proof your business.

To find out more, please contact salonemotion@loreal.com. Please note eligibility for Salon Emotion is based on whether a salon fulfils a set of criteria, which is assessed by the L’Oréal Professional Products Division.

How can Salon Emotion help you? Salons explain what they love most about Salon Emotion… “The day was mind-blowing. It was full of information. In today’s market we all know how difficult it is being on the high street or on a suburb and just being a good hairdresser isn’t good enough anymore.” Mia from Francesco Group “It was my first time at Salon Emotion and I absolutely loved it. We had great interactions from the people on our table and I loved learning about the importance of social media.” Donna from Dontev Hairdressing, Ashford


BUSINESS

The Price is Right

S

etting the right price for your salon services and retail products can be a challenge and it is something that many businesses struggle with. If you set the price too high clients will stop coming to you, but if you set it too low you won’t have a profit margin or clients could assume your services are poor quality. An ‘optimum price’ considers all of your costs and maximises your margins while remaining an attractive option to your clients. To reach your optimum price you need to consider manufacturing costs, the market place, your competition,

Essential tips for getting the price right • Increase your prices gradually – have a strategic price increase plan for the next two to five years and implement this slowly. • Train your salon team to communicate price increases so they are comfortable answering a client’s queries or objections. • Consider tiered pricing as this will mean your salon will meet the needs of different types of client. • Maintain strong controls on discounting and special offers.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Are you pitching the correct price for your salon services and retail products in the current market? Liz McKeon shares her steps for setting the optimum price point

the condition of the current market, the brands you stock and the quality of your products. A well-chosen price list should achieve the financial goals of your business (profitability), fit the realities of the market (will your clients buy at that price?) and support your salon brand’s position in the market. To set your prices there are a few things to consider...

Know the market Find out how much clients will pay as well as how much your competitors are charging. Consider matching or beating their pricing. However, never just price match as you need to be sure all of your running costs and overheads (both indirect and direct) are covered. Invest time and energy into adequate research to know and understand your market.

Know your costs List every single expenditure it takes to open your doors and keep your business running. Add all of these costs together and divide by the volume of services required to produce a daily and weekly breakeven figure. If necessary, ask your accountant to assist you as it is critical to know your numbers.

Consider cost plus pricing Add a margin or mark-up to your breakeven point. This is usually expressed as a percentage of breakeven. If the price looks too high, trim your costs and reduce 20 / hji.co.uk

your pricing accordingly. You should include the value of your time in your pricing structure – your time is valuable, so you need to include it when calculating your prices.

Consider your salon’s market position Service positioning is the unique identity of a service in a competitive market. A valuable position serves client needs and stands out from the crowd in a way that has meaning to clients, which means you can charge more. Clients are not always looking for the lowest prices, particularly if they know they are purchasing exclusivity, or if your salon is located in a high-end or convenient location. Consider all of the factors that are involved in pricing. For example, how will charging VAT impact on your pricing? Can you keep margins modest on some services to achieve higher margins on other services? Finally, prices seldom stay fixed for long. Running costs, clients and competitors can change so don’t forget that you will have to change your pricing regularly to keep up with market trends.

Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.


BUSINESS

The ultimate free marketing tool Loyal clients are an untapped resource when it comes to gaining new clients and filling appointment slots for your new and existing services, says business coach Jo Robertson

A

re your loyal clients the ones who come in and get taken straight to the backwash without a consultation to save time? We’re all guilty of this but if you spent more time on your loyal clients, rather than trying to gain new ones, your business (and your clients) will thank you for it. Loyal clients are your raving fans – they love you, your services and your salon, which is why they continue to come back to you. How can you encourage your fans to tell more people about you?

gets more likes because people buy into other people. Clients love to know what’s going on behind the scenes and the stronger you make your connection to your clients, the longer your relationship will last.

The power of recommendation Have you ever been recommended a restaurant? Think about how the person described the food, the waiter or the selection of gins. They may have said: “It was one of the best meals we have had in a long time”. You can’t buy this type of recommendation because 78% of us are more likely to try somewhere that’s recommended as opposed to booking through paid media.

The power of 20

SHUTTERSTOCK

You may feel like you have a good marketing strategy, but did you know it can take up to 20 times of showing/ telling your client about a new service or product before they will buy into it? Based on this statistic, consider how many times you have told your client about all of your services and products. Does your client know the services you offer and the products you stock and when was the last time you discussed the list with them? Consider your salon’s buying journey. On the first and second time you offer a client a new service they may take no notice. On the third time they may remember you mentioning it before and on the fourth time they may start to consider it.

The power of relationships If you want to keep a loyal client, you need to constantly remind them why they should continue to come back to you. Don’t be embarrassed

The power of experiences

Four ways to get more from your loyal clients

1

Never stop reminding your clients about the services you offer through all of your communication points.

2

Make your marketing personal. The stronger the bond with a loyal client, the longer the relationship.

3

Measure your customer experiences – what can you offer that no one else can?

4

How can you add more value to your service? Could you work with local businesses and create a joint loyalty card for loyal clients?

as this is business and you need to be telling them why you spent all of those years studying and why you are on a continual learning journey. If you don’t, your competitors will. The secret is to make sure you are featured in the reason why a client should come back to you. On social media a picture showing an individual 21 / hji.co.uk

Think about your client experience and focus on the small things because it’s the small things that will differentiate you from your competitors and will generate sales. Ask your team to think about the best customer experience they have received and to write down how it made them feel. What can you and your team do in the salon that will make your clients feel the same way? Consistency is the buzz word for social media and customer service. Promote yourself to your clients through emails, social media and by giving fantastic customer service. If you’re not sure whether your clients are aware of the services you offer, the best way to find out is to ask them to fill in an exit questionnaire after their next appointment. This can be two or three quick questions to see whether they know about a particular service you provide.

Jo Robertson coaches hair professionals and uses her brand experience to achieve results quickly. Visit jorobertson.me for more information.


BUSINESS PANEL

How do you boost productivity in the salon? There are a limited number of hours in the working day, so this year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards winners share their tips for ensuring you and your team make the most of the time you’ve got with your clients

Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year “We work hard to maintain a positive work culture and a happy working environment that our team are proud to be a part of and that boosts productivity in the salon. When the team are excited to come to work, they are driven and want to exceed client expectations. They are more loyal, focussed and creative and of course, this then means that we can achieve both our business and individual goals faster. A happy, solid, productive team who are committed to development and excellence will delight clients and encourage loyalty.”

Christian’s steps to success: ∞ Create a culture that inspires

creativity and teamwork. ∞ Offer support and set clear and measurable goals. ∞ Regularly assess the operation – are you maximising the skills of all your team and does everyone understand how to prioritise tasks?

Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1

Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2

“A busy salon provides a fantastic learning environment for all. Salon assistants and trainees thrive when there is increased opportunity to observe, not to mention the potential for more hands-on work. Staying productive helps to keep stylists motivated. Inspired stylists radiate positive energy and deliver an important message to those newer to the industry, which creates a strong and dynamic salon culture. The team is continually learning and being part of an inspiring environment means your team will reap the rewards as they earn and your business will too.”

“Productivity makes the world go round – at least in salon terms. We live in a competitive market place and to be productive keeps you motivated and driven. Being productive also creates the resources required to do creative work outside of your column and business. Photographic shoots, stage presentations or backstage work are expensive for all businesses, so it is crucial there is the right balance of productivity and creativity for the salon to thrive.”

Natalie’s steps to success: ∞ Create a referral programme to

help your team bring in new clients.

∞ Promote your points of difference.

Use bloggers and vloggers to help shout about what makes you unique. ∞ Are you attracting new clients but becoming complacent with existing ones? Consider how you will go above and beyond with every appointment.

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Phil’s steps to success: ∞ It is easier to stay productive than

to start being productive so don’t let morale drop or doubt creep in. ∞ Many salons use targets and incentives to stay productive but my salon is not-for-profit. I use a strong career path, clearly defined expectations and trust to keep my team productive. ∞ Productivity should be driven by passion and not finance. Set goals and a plan for how to tick them off.


PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design “A productive team is a happy team. Stylists who are not busy working in the salon will get bored easily and this can lead to discontent. If you improve your stylist’s daily schedule to ensure they are being productive throughout the day, it will open up more time to provide more services for your clients, which will increase your revenue and profits.”

Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ Set monthly targets with key

performance indicators for you and your staff. ∞ Look out for when a member of staff does a task particularly well and give them praise as this will ensure they will do it again. ∞ Occasionally give out of the blue rewards to your consistently well-performing staff to motivate them and the rest of the team.

Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year “You can have an average day and with a little team talk you can boost motivation in 15 minutes. The team feel like they have value when they are busy and productive. Being productive isn’t all about making money. As a team, understand the importance of an immaculate salon. We work hard to ensure the building is kept up-to-date, modern and in good repair. This is just as productive as a client appointment as it all adds to the client’s experience.”

Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ Set-up regular ‘buzz meetings’

for you and your team at the start of each day. ∞ Set incentives and targets for your team to follow. ∞ Understand each member of the team’s personal motivations for being more productive in the salon.

Name: Steve Rowbottom and Marc Westerman Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award “There are lots of business benefits to be gained from having productive employees. Boosting productivity will help increase profits, lower operational costs, improve customer service, enhance wellbeing and improve staff morale and their commitment to your clients.”

Steve and Marc’s steps to success: ∞ If your staff love what they do and

are excited to come to work, they will provide a better service, which will boost rebooking rates and word-of-mouth referrals. ∞ Look at ways to continually provide opportunities and challenges for staff to grow and develop new skills. ∞ Ensure your top earners are doing the jobs that are the most profitable and encourage younger members of your team to develop skills in areas where they are already excelling.

Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year “It’s important for survival. Creating a salon environment that runs smoothly and entices clients to return and spend more is fundamental to success. A relaxed and happy client and a dynamic stylist will give you a better return – it’s as simple as that.”

Salv’s steps to success: ∞ A productive stylist will lead to a

happy client and more profits. It’s essential all of your team are fully educated in delivering the best possible service for your clients. ∞ Reward your team’s efforts and don’t take them for granted. Create motivational tools that you feel will appeal most to your team. ∞ Upselling and generating return visits from your clients should be a priority for your team. It’s also important to keep the conversation and the atmosphere light and relaxed.

23 / hji.co.uk

Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “It’s vital to boost productivity to make sure your business is moving forward and making money so you can re-invest in its future. You need to constantly come up with new ideas to keep your staff and clients excited. Stay up-to-date with the latest trends to ensure you stay fresh with new clients walking through the door. Keep training your staff and shout about your successes – it all adds up to motivated, productive and happy staff.”

Janet’s steps to success: ∞ Keep the team motivated and

enthusiastic by offering courses, competitions and the chance to visit hairdressing exhibitions. ∞ Everyone likes the best things in life so giving employees incentives will boost salon performance. ∞ Keep the team happy – if you don’t have a team you won’t have a salon.

Name: Mila Timberlake and Natalia Irvine Salon: Rainbow Room International Award: Front of House Team “Building a loyal clientele and being proactive when it comes to training and communication is key. Hold regular appraisals to help staff achieve their goals and understand what motivates them. We have a training platform to encourage staff to climb the career ladder and have done this throughout our 40 years as a business, as well as holding our annual Congress Awards to motivate the team and promote bonuses.”

Mila and Natalia’s steps to success: ∞ Ensure staff are up-to-date on current trends.

∞ Rewards and goals go a long way to boosting team spirit.

∞ Build a loyal clientele and include offers to gain new clients and to increase client retention.


BUSINESS

The Debate

Should you hire an accountant? Yes

No

“An accountant is a small price to pay compared to the cost of a mistake.”

“I have a better understanding of where my business is making money.”

“Hairdressers are creative creatures and we need time to focus on running a salon and delivering exceptional cuts, colour and customer service for our clientele. Investing in a qualified accountant can bring peace of mind because you know everything is done 100% by the book and nothing is overlooked. Any business that fails to keep adequate records or fails to pay its taxes, whether deliberately or inadvertently, is always at risk of being on the wrong end of a compliance visit from HMRC. Hiring an accountant can be a small price to pay compared to the costs you would incur if you make mistakes or underpay. The perks of hiring a good accountant are the add-ons you receive. A good accountant will save you money on your tax and VAT bills and will liaise with the tax office for you. They should know everything about the new quarterly registrations and all of the rules – essential if you are a business with more than one salon. For a bigger business an accountant will look after spreadsheets, full auditing, VAT returns and your Profit and Loss Statement. It is important to do your research when choosing an accountant. Look for someone who fits your brand and knows the industry. Your accountant needs to understand how you want to develop your business, how you will run it, and be kept in the loop about your future plans so they can negotiate the logistics for you. I believe it’s best to create a long-lasting relationship with your accountant. When I became MD at Bad Apple Hair in 2014, I brought my accountant with me. I have complete trust in what he does, which allows me to spend all of my time being committed to running and driving the Bad Apple Hair business.”

“As a freelance stylist without any staff I manage my accounts myself. I use a great accounting software app that does a lot of the hard work for me and it is perfect for freelancers and small businesses. If I ever get stuck I go to directgov.org, which has valuable information and is easy to navigate. I make a conscious effort to save the money I would have spent on an accountant and reinvest it into other areas of my business. I look after everything myself, so I have a better understanding of what is coming in and going out each month. This means I can stay on top of my stock levels and see where my business is making and losing money. In saying this, doing my own accounts can be time-consuming. I make sure to set aside time to do my books so that it doesn’t fall to the bottom of my to-do list. If you’re going to do your own accounts I would recommend trying to set aside a particular date for it. For example, at the end of each week or month. I also keep a diary of all my ingoings and outgoings daily and force myself to make sure all of my receipts are kept in order so I can stay on track and keep a note of the miles I drive. There’s nothing worse than getting to the end of the year and having a million receipts to sort out. With some organisation and planning you can manage your accounts yourself, particularly if you are in a similar situation to me. I don’t have any staff and generally work alone so it’s easier to manage my own accounts. If you have a larger business with staff working for you, I can see why it might be wise to invest in a professional accountant.”

Gavin Mills, managing director, Bad Apple Hair Group

Sarah Bishop, freelance stylist, Indigo Lilac Hairdressing

24 / hji.co.uk

SHUTTERSTOCK

Two hairdressers discuss the pros and cons of having professional support with their business accounts


BUSINESS

Four of the most loyal clients Angus Gordon Hairdressing in Edinburgh is celebrating its 40th anniversary. Some of its longest serving clients reveal what has kept them coming back over the 40 years

10 years

13 years

30 years

40 years

Mark

Jemima

Pam

Lee

Why have you been a client for 10 years?

Why have you been a client for 13 years?

Why have you been a client for 30 years?

Why have you been a client for 40 years?

I have very difficult hair and Angus has managed to tame it. Angus provides a focused, personal service and the whole salon has an atmosphere and culture of professionalism that I have not experienced elsewhere. Plus, the salon has four separate, distinct areas off a central corridor, which gives a sense of privacy.

My mother has been a client with Gordon for over 20 years and I started coming here as a child. I loved coming to such a friendly salon when I was young. As an adult, I feel no one else would understand my hair needs as well as Gordon and his team.

I always get the style and cut that suits me best. Over the years Angus has become more like a friend and has attended a number of family occasions. He did the hair at my son’s wedding and tweaked the bride’s style just before the photos were taken!

Gordon totally understands my look and my type of hair. I love the ambiance in the salon and the caring and friendly team give me a fantastic welcome on every visit. I also really admire how much time is invested into introducing me to new products.

What’s your best memory from the salon?

What do you love most about the salon?

What’s your best memory from the salon?

What’s your best memory from the salon?

The day I returned home from a gap year with destroyed and overbleached hair. Gordon returned it to my normal glossy locks and I don’t think I’ll ever forget how bad it looked when I first walked in to the salon.

Angus and his staff make it such a fun experience. They make you feel like you are the most important person in the salon that day. I always feel as if every visit is as important as the previous one. I value their professional approach and technical skills.

When we were lucky enough to win the Scottish heat for Wells Vogue together and we had a full page in the magazine.

A couple of Christmases ago, I opted for a complete re-style which Angus suggested. I bit the bullet and put myself completely in his hands and it paid off big time. The amount of compliments I received in the weeks after – well, finally, I knew what a supermodel felt like!

Angus on Mark… “Not only have I watched Mark’s family expand over the years – in fact his daughter, Millie is now a client, but I’ve also seen his career develop. He recently started his own business and I have every confidence in his ability to make a huge success of it.”

Gordon on Jemima… “I love having Jemima as one of my younger clients. I enjoy working with a variety of ages. I had the honour of watching her grow up and I’ve been with her for some of her special occasions. For example, being asked to do her hair for her graduation was an honour. We’ve always worked together on making her hair perfect for whatever was happening in her life.”

Angus on Pam… “It’s like welcoming a family member when Pam comes to the salon. When she travelled to one of the world’s most remote islands, it was lovely to hear her stories when she came back. She has such a great outlook on life. She makes the most of it and that’s why I feel such an affinity with her and enjoy her company so much when she is in the salon.”

25 / hji.co.uk

What has been your best hair look? I asked Gordon for an Heléna Christensen haircut and I had people stopping me in the street to ask where I had it done.

Gordon on Lee… “We have become the best of friends over the years. I do her children’s and grandchildren’s hair. She is a perfectionist with a wonderfully kind heart. I loved the time we spent on Wells Vogue and the doors it opened for us. She challenges me and I love her for it.”


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Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65608 July 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

26 / hji.co.uk


EXTENSIONS

THE NEW ERA OF EXTENSIONS The image and reputation of extensions and the women wearing them has evolved over the years. Discover what’s new for 2019 in this issue’s extensions special HAIR: GREAT LENGTHS 27 / hji.co.uk



World leading ethical hair extensions

To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST


HAIR EXTENSIONS MYTHS: BUSTED Extensions can be a minefield for clients who have never tried them before. Hairdreams dispels the myths to help you answer all of your clients’ burning questions

30 / hji.co.uk


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Myth No. 4

“Hair extensions can’t withstand exercise, swimming and frequent styling” The truth: Hairdreams uses only the highest grade of hair quality and has patented connection points. This means Hairdreams extensions can be treated like natural hair. Wearers can take part in sports, visit the sauna and dance all night. Frequent hair washing and styling with curling wands and flat irons also won’t cause any problems to clients.

Myth No. 5

Myth No. 1

“Hair extensions can damage a client’s hair’’ The truth: Hairdreams stylists provide an in-depth consultation where they assess the scalp and integrity of the client’s own hair, previous treatments and suitability for hair extensions. This ensures the health of a client’s hair is never compromised. Client aftercare and regular maintenance checks are an essential part of the contract between the stylist and client. Hairdreams also has its own product line that is specially formulated to care for its 5* and 7* quality hair. This means a client’s own hair and their extensions are kept in excellent condition.

Myth No. 2

“It’s difficult to remove hair extensions’’ The truth: The crystal polymer connection points developed and patented by Hairdreams for the Laserbeamer Nano, Dualpower system and the Quikkies tapes are removed by a specially-trained stylist using gentle solvents and specialist techniques. Extensions are simple to remove causing no damage to the client’s own hair and scalp.

“The connection points will be really noticeable” The truth: Hairdreams bondings and tapes are undetectable in the hair. Expert stylists take into consideration each client’s natural hair fall and growth pattern to ensure the extensions look natural and connection points aren’t visible. The client is able to wear their hair up without any worry that bonds can be seen. The new Quikkies Secrets tape-in extensions mimic natural hair growth, which makes them undetectable. Quikkies Secrets enable the stylist to apply higher than normal with no tape being visible.

Myth No. 6

“Hair extensions won’t blend with a client’s natural hair” The truth: Hairdreams extensions blend seamlessly thanks to the brand’s professional application techniques. If clients have concerns about the extensions matching the colour of their own hair, it’s worth noting the Laserbeamer Nano strands come in a mixture of two colours for a natural transition. The Root Shadow range comes with short and long roots so you can create beautiful balayage effects without picking up a tint brush.

Myth No. 7

“Hair extensions can be uncomfortable and heavy” The truth: Hair extensions should never be painful. If they are proving uncomfortable this is down to poor application and education. Hairdreams has numerous application types that are suitable for every hair type. The brand has created special selector tools to help create the perfect sectioning and distance from the scalp as well as the correct amount of the client’s own hair per section for each bond size. The result is comfortable and light Hairdreams extensions for the client.

Extensions should never be painful. If they are proving uncomfortable this is down to poor application and education.

Myth No. 3

“Taking care of extensions is complex’’ The truth: Taking care of Hairdreams hair extensions is no different from caring for naturally long hair. However, it is important to tell clients that because they now have a lot more hair it will initially take longer to shampoo and style. Once your client has become familiar with their new longer and fuller hair, Hairdreams extensions can be handled easily using a specially designed extensions brush and hair care products.

For more information about Hairdreams training and services please visit www.hairdreams.com @hairdreams_UK  +44 7566294857 or +43 316 6057 644  crm@hairdreams.com 31 / hji.co.uk


LONG AND SHORT Discover the hottest trends in the world of extensions

#trending

SUNRISE BLONDE

SHUTTERSTOCK

BALMAIN HAIR

MATT BARON/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Actress Emma Roberts recently underwent a dramatic hair transformation swapping her short brunette bob for long summery blonde waves. Emma’s new style, which comes courtesy of her long-time stylists Nikki Lee and Riawna Capri, was created using Great Lengths. The brand has over 80 shades to choose from, so it’s no wonder Emma’s locks looked so multi-dimensional at this year’s Met Gala (pictured right).

Pump up the volume

SUMMER LOVING

The majority of female clients (70%) want their hair to be more voluminous, according to research by Balmain Hair. The brand has responded with Système Volume hair extensions, a box of tricks that fills in baselines, strengthens front panels and helps to give all-over volume. The brand is calling it ‘botox for hair’ thanks to its 45-minute application time and the immediate result of thicker and younger-looking locks.

This summer Remi Cachet is educating clients about the effects of water on their extensions when on holiday. Founder Victoria Lynch says: “As a rule of thumb if you can’t drink the tap water, I’d avoid letting your hair get in contact with it.” Advise clients to keep hair out of the pool or sea and to reduce how often they wash it. Follow @remicachet to see how pool water can effect extensions. 32 / hji.co.uk

The power of three Rooting for it Proving the trend for the undone look is going nowhere, the latest extensions launches feature dyed-in roots of varying lengths from brunette root stretches to golden balayage.

Glamlox Rooted Extensions

Hairdreams Root Shadow

Zen Luxury Extensions Root Stretch


Diva Maker is a leading manufacturer and distributor of professional luxury human hair extension essentials. We are headquartered in Kansas City, Missouri USA, with sales in Europe, Africa and Russia. Our goal and commitment to our customers is to offer only the best products under our brand name –

The Diva Collection We are seeking salon partners to offer the Diva Collection to their client base. We offer support and training in new techniques and trends as they enter the market.

The key feature of our hair is the content: 100% Pure & Natural Human Hair We call our hair ECO Hair because it contains: NO Animal or Artificial Fibers NO Chemical Processing – herbal based treatment for colour and processing

Tangle Free ✓ Shed Free ✓ No Silicone ✓ Excellent Colour Interchange ✓

The Diva Collection is reusable & can last up to 3 years European distribution point from Sweden

Our mission is to provide professional Luxury and Premium ECO-friendly quality Remy 100% pure and natural human hair and hair care products and educational services by leading and setting the standards in our field of industry. Our business concept is based on the marketing strategy that customer superiority and awareness lead to success and increased sales. We offer our distributors and re-sellers a good profit margin and support to help maximize their impact in their perspective markets.

email: info@divamaker4you.com

www.divamaker4you.com


EXPECT

MORE EXPERIENCE THE

DIAMOND STANDARD IN HAIR EXTENSIONS

We procure and process our own hair to guarantee its origin, quality and provenance. Create without compromise with Richy. 100% DOUBLE-DRAWN RUSSIAN HAIR INVISIBLE TAPE ATTACHMENTS NO SILICONS

Call +44 (0) 203 092 3345 askrichy@richyhairuk.com

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EXTENSIONS

GREAT LENGTHS

EXTENSIONS: T THIS TIME IT’S PERSONAL The hair extensions world has exploded in recent years. Now extensions are as multi-faceted as the women who wear them 35 / hji.co.uk

he appeal of hair extensions in 2019 lies beyond footballer’s wives and reality stars. They can be applied to give definition to on-trend lobs and bobs, bridal stylists are using them to add subtle volume and advances in technology means they are a viable option for women who are experiencing hair loss. Today, hair extensions really are for everyone. Brands and salons understand the growing appeal and are offering personalised extensions services that cater to all types of clients. Regardless of whether you’re thinking about adding extensions to your service menu, debating whether to change your offering or completely new to the world of extensions, read on to explore the new face of hair extensions.


EXTENSIONS

As with all hairdressing services, fabulous results start with a solid consultation. “A good consultation is key to identifying and managing client expectations,” stresses Abigail Bootland, sales and marketing manager at Richy UK. “There are so many options but if you narrow it down, a client often wants a simple outcome. They desire extra length, a different colour or more volume. An extensions consultation should be just as thorough as any other hairdressing consultation.” In fact, Great Lengths argues that extensions consultations should be more in depth than a regular consultation. This summer, the brand has introduced a new consultation process. Great Lengths salons and stylists will receive a new service menu as well as a new treatment and maintenance menu, which includes ‘treatment cocktails’ (turn to page 39 /* Ù) *0/ (*- Ļě The service menu details the different application types available and includes images to show clients what a full head, half head or filler service application looks like on real models. The menu also leaves room for you to tailor the menu to your salon’s pricing and appointment dates. Finally, the takeaway leaflet provides the client with all the maintenance information they will need. Working with clients from start to finish is essential for Charlotte Boyes of The Hive Salon in Leeds and she has a hands-on element to her consultation. “I wear Hairdreams extensions myself so my clients can look and touch them. I explain where the hair was produced and describe the application process,” the Hairdreams Creative Team UK member points out. The client’s lifestyle is another factor that is important “An extensions to take into account. consultation In fact, Balmain has a should be just as consultation sheet that salons can use with their thorough as any example, clients to identify their other hairdressing Injection hair type and lifestyle Tape Hair as well as the amount consultation.” from Remi of aftercare involved. Abigail Bootland, Cachet adds “Salons have to make sure Richy UK extra inches, hair extensions are right volume, colour for that client and if they are, and helps clients to the type that will fit them best,” get past any ‘awkward stresses Gorka Arraras, creative growing out’ stages, and manager at Charles Worthington they can be applied in around 30 Salon. An in-depth consultation minutes using one pack of 20 strips. process means results will last longer, Similarly, Hairdreams offers Nano look better and clients will return application which means clients can more often. have 150 bonds applied in a lunch Time is money hour. Charlotte explains: “As a salon The speed of extensions application owner my time is my profit margin has opened up the service to a new so the quicker the service the more type of time-conscious client. For money I can make. Speed doesn’t 36 / hji.co.uk

RACOON

Talk isn’t cheap

mean the service is less precise. The Hairdreams sectioning technique ensures perfect sections and flat bonds every time.” Salons have also found innovative ways to speed up the process. “Some salons advise clients to invest in two sets of extensions, which are used on rotation. When they come in for the maintenance or a refit, the next set is already waiting and prepped for them,” explains Zen Luxury Extensions managing director Johnny Yip. “After the client has left, the extensions that have just been removed are carefully washed, conditioned and re-taped ready for the next refit so there is really no downtime.”


superfast: 5 in 40 seconds

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EXTENSIONS EXTEND YOUR SERVICE Take note of how these three salons are taking their extensions service to the next level...

Create an extensions bar Colour bars have become a huge trend for salons so why not showcase your extensions in the same way? Rapture brand ambassador Calum Tierney of Terence Paul has done just that. “Our exclusive Rapture bar adds an extra touch of theatre to what is already an exciting and visual service,” he says.

Go direct When Remi Cachet’s Super Stylists see their clients not taking their extensions advice, they’ve been taking matters into their own hands. “Sometimes I feel like the weave police. I saw a client on social media not protecting her blonde extensions in the pool. I didn’t wait for a complaint to come in. Instead, I reminded her about the damaging effects of pool water on her hair extensions,” says Lamiese Johnson, who is based in Dubai.

Draw up a contract After a client has chosen their Balmain extensions at a Charles Worthington salon they are given a contract which stresses the importance of aftercare and maintenance. This ensures the client understands all of the critical information before they leave the salon. Great Lengths in-salon treatments and services include new Treatment Cocktails. The four new treatments are developed to suit a range of different hair types and needs. Treatment Cocktails include Moisture Quench, Strengthen, Ultimate Blonde and Reviver, which is a repair treatment to reinvigorate badly damaged hair.

BALAMIN

Cocktails and extensions

AS SEEN ON DRAGONS DEN

New to market, the Easibond is revolutionising the way hair extension specialists work across the globe. It holds multiple packs of bonds and tapes, so the workstation can be set up in seconds. With its sleek teeth, hair glides through the comb of the Easibond making fitting all hair extension types a stress-free experience for both the stylist and client. Saving up to an hour per refit, the Easibond is a real game changer! Available in two colours and retails at £19.95 | Please visit www.easiweft.com 39 / hji.co.uk


EXTENSIONS

REMI CACHET

Healthy hair is paramount

Bespoke colour and style As clients want to feel like their extensions are made especially for them, personalisation is a key element to add to your extensions service. In reponse, Hairdreams has designed a course focused on contouring. “Our stylists take into account the client’s face shape, adding darker tones to areas that can be made softer, and lighter shades to areas we want to appear brighter,” explains Sarah Sullivan, Hairdreams UK educator and technical advisor. The brand uses a minimum of three shades to create a natural and multi-tonal result and this is one of its most popular requests. Encouragingly new innovations are making it easier to create on-trend shades. For example, Easitint’s Colouring Sheets attach to the Easiweft extensions holder to make the colouring process less messy and new Mago hair extensions are secured with a patented knot, which amongst other benefits, means a client’s hair can be coloured without resulting in any lumps or bumps. Keeping up with trends and offering extensions to make them possible

Achieving the latest trends is not the only reason why clients opt for extensions. For those with medical issues a full head of hair can make them feel like themselves again. In fact, hair extensions brand Diva Maker was created when founder Louise Brooks began losing her own hair, due to Lupus disease. “I was looking for extensions to help disguise my hair loss, but I found the hair on the market was low quality,” she explains. “I had gone to multiple hairstylists and sometimes the hair they put in made me itch or irritated my scalp. Plus, I didn’t feel like the high price matched the quality.” Louise decided to create her own extensions brand – Diva Maker. The brand uses chemical-free 100% Indian real remy human hair to eliminate allergic reactions. Great Lengths similarly insists the health of a client’s hair should never be compromised when extensions are worn. “Often our clients find “Our philosophy is the condition of their hair improves while that salons should wearing our offer extensions Pre-bonded and Tape Extensions,” in the same way explains Louise as they would Jenkins, Great introduce a client Lengths education and creative to colour.” manager. “All of Nick Allen, our stylists undergo a two-day assessment Rapture Hair that ensures they retains and attracts new fully understand how to extensions clients. “Our customise the bond to ensure biggest trend in the salon is the they are always suitable for the lob. Many of our clients want to add client’s hair.” In addition to this, the thickness and volume through the hair is uniquely pre-bonded with a front of their hair,” explains Charles patented bond to prevent shedding, Worthington’s Gorka. “Our stylists and the bond is formulated to allow apply 40 bonds or six to 10 tapes of the natural hair to breathe. Balmain Hair extensions to get a The right to choose thicker and fuller effect.” More women are turning to It is important to promote your extensions and are more educated extensions service to all of your about the process than ever before. clients, not just those who have “Our Remi Cachet Super Stylists requested them. Nick Allen, sales have noticed that even before director at Rapture Hair explains: the consultation clients are well “Our philosophy is that salons informed, they’ve done their research should always be prepared to offer and know what methods, colours and extensions in exactly the same way styles they want to achieve,” explains as they would introduce colour to founder Victoria Lynch. This could a client.” Options Hair Design in be thanks to the brand’s online ‘find Essex sets each of their stylists a goal a stylist’ feature, which means clients of fitting six new clients with hair can research an extensionist and extensions each week. In most cases salon before booking a consultation. this means adding one or two pieces As extensions grow in popularity, for added volume, a fringe or even a pop of colour. By offering this service, there is more choice in the market. Empower your clients with a range of often free of charge, clients can see extensions styles, the speed of your for themselves the transformation. service and professional aftercare and These ‘trial’ clients often become your extensions clients will take your paying clients and are great business to even greater lengths. word-of-mouth referrers. 40 / hji.co.uk


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

How to apply Remi Cachet Clip-In Deluxe Hair Extensions Part the hair, gently backcomb the root area and snap the clips in place. The clip-ins can be added and removed as and when required. The clip-ins are availble in two options: ∞ 16in length 120g – RRP £109.99 ∞ 20in length 150g – RRP £129.99 Go to remicachet.com for more information and to apply for a Trade Account.

have the best hair quality lasting for over 12 months and at an affordable price for stylists.”

COMFORT MEETS SUSTAINABILITY Remi Cachet has relaunched its Clip-In Deluxe Hair Extensions to make them more soft, flexible and comfortable as well as 100% recyclable

@LAURENREEDHAIREXTENSIONS

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uxury extensions brand Remi Cachet has given its Clip-In Deluxe Hair Extensions a complete redesign. The new design has a slimline polyurethane (PU) top that is soft and flexible against the scalp. It is extremely comfortable for the wearer and ideal for any client wanting to be the belle of the ball this summer. Plus, the strips are colour-matched to the hair strands so, together with their ultra-thin shape, are undetectable. Quality hair in a range of shades The Clip-In Deluxe Hair Extensions feature hand selected 100% human

hair that is remi and double-drawn to ensure the highest quality. It is available in a range of 34 colours, which also includes root stretch options for those who love balayage. It is available in three separate pieces (2 x 12in and 1 x 5in length) so you can place the hair where it’s needed. Remi Cachet’s founder Victoria Lynch says: “We wanted to improve the current design to make the most comfortable clip-in that is in line with our weft technology. The PU strips are slimline, soft against the scalp and will hold the hair in place. We have also introduced a higher quality grade of hair in line with our brand ethos to 41 / hji.co.uk

100% recyclable and sustainable Remi Cachet is proud to announce its Clip-In Deluxe Hair Extensions can be completely recycled and turned into hair mats to save the world’s oceans from pollution and rubbish. The product packaging is also 100% recyclable so clients can feel good about looking good. The new look packaging makes a beautiful gift box and is designed to attract your client’s attention in the retail area of your salon. Create a clip-in service Remi Cachet’s Super Stylist Judi Selkirk from Phoenix Hair, Preston offers a professional extensions service in the salon. She says it ensures clients get the right clip-ins for their individual needs. Here are her suggestions for who would benefit from a clip-in service in your salon... ∞ Special occasions and weddings: Clip-ins give a bridal updo extra volume. If your bride is wearing her hair down she will love the additional thickness and length it will provide. ∞ Lifestyle conditions: Extensions are not recommended for school age children so clip-ins are a practical option for prom night. ∞ First time extension wearers: Clip-ins are a good starting point if the client is considering a new style. ∞ Between refit appointments: If a client’s hair needs to be sent for re-tipping, or if they are having a break, clip-ins are an interim solution. ∞ Holiday hair: For those clients who want to avoid discolouration issues with their permanent extensions while on holiday, they can spend time in the pool and apply the clip-ins for beautiful hair in the evening.


World leading ethical hair extensions To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST


EDUCATION AND TRAINING

MEET YOUR ALL-NEW Hair salons are sharing the love by creating specific education programmes to help other hair salons and their teams. Here’s HJ’s lowdown on where to go if you want to grow your skillset in 2019 ‘The one for expanding your men’s hairdressing skills’ Name: Manifesto Education type: Men’s hairdressing Location: London The USP: Our education is based on technical cutting skills such as suitability, internal shape, attention to detail and natural styling including prep, drying technique and finish. Why do you share your education: We believe hairdressing is a creative industry so sharing techniques and ideas keep it innovative and moving forwards. Best piece of education advice: Cutting hair isn’t a job, it’s a hobby so enjoy it! Why sign-up: We don’t teach salons to copy looks as we want to encourage them to develop their own creativity. We want to give people inspiration as opposed to teaching them to replicate. How to sign-up: Send an email to info@manifesto-education.com or send a direct message on Instagram to @manifesto_ldn or @manifestoeducation.

‘The one for all ages and abilities’ Name: Ena salon / AllilON education Location: London Education type: Progressive stylist and apprenticeship programmes. The USP: We have our own private education company AllilON that supports the Ena salon’s training philosophy. We have created an apprenticeship programme and a progressive stylist programme for retrained stylists that doesn’t discriminate by age or time as having the right attitude is our main priority. We want each individual to learn at their own speed as everyone is unique. Each team member has assessments to pass so the speed of each individual’s training is based on their ability 43 / hji.co.uk

and desire to get through the training. Why do you share your education: We have a responsibility to present and future hairdressers which is greater than our own and that is to raise the standards and reputation of our industry. Best piece of education advice: Be very selective on who you surround yourself with because you are only as good as the people around you. Why should a salon team sign-up: We have designed our education for hairdressers who want to have control of their work, be successful and empowered by understanding their craft. How to sign-up: Go to alliloneducation.com.


EDUCATION AND TRAINING ‘The one with the hair up expert’ Name: Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing Education type: Hair up expert Location: Newtownards, Northern Ireland and nationwide as Sharon can travel to your salon. The USP: To give individuals the confidence to boost their hair up skillset. I teach simple, easy and quick techniques to put hair up and I talk about the essential tools and products to use. Why do you share your education: When it comes to hair up, there are often only one or two people in a salon who can do it with confidence. If we share our knowledge with more team members, they can offer a total service for clients. I want the whole salon to be able to offer an updo service for the bridesmaids and mother of the bride as well as the bride. Best piece of education advice: Use it so you don’t lose it! Why sign-up: To boost your confidence, belief and updo knowledge for you to take back to your salon and share with your team. How to sign-up: Email hair@sharonmalcolm.co.uk or call 02891 819000 and request I come to your salon. Alternatively, you can get in touch with the Schwarzkopf Professional Ask Academy.

‘The one with an intimate and bespoke training setting’ Name: Westrow Academy Education type: The opportunity to study hairdressing, barbering, management and business processes in a facility that can take up to 240 students. Location: Leeds The USP: We offer a range of detailed, bespoke and comprehensive training courses in hairdressing, barbering, management and business processes in a state-of-the-art setting. We want to raise the standards of hairdressing as a whole and we believe working in smaller groups of eight to 10 is the way forward. Why do you share your education: We need to develop and nurture new talent and one of our pet hates are salons that don’t give anything back to the industry. At Westrow, we believe it is important to share our experience with other salons and continually raise 44 / hji.co.uk

standards in the training and hairdressing arena. Best piece of education advice: Recognise an individual’s abilities as it’s pointless sending an assistant, who is just about to qualify, on an advanced course. They may return inspired but they could be overwhelmed and think they are not good enough. Teaching them the fundamentals and encouraging them to work their way up the ladder will increase their thirst for knowledge. The people who discover their forte at an early age should be nurtured and developed, ensuring time and money are both well spent. Why sign-up: We have ongoing course development to ensure our courses are up-to-date and we also pride ourselves on being ahead of our competitors. How to sign-up: For more information email info@westrowacademy.com or call 0113 397 9400.



EDUCATION AND TRAINING ‘The one for apprentices who want tailormade education’

‘The one for tapping into the barbering market’ Name: Joe and Co Soho Education type: All aspects of barbering Location: London and nationwide as the team can travel to your salon. The USP: We have an established team of educators and session stylists, including Joe Mills, Jody Taylor and Charlie Cullen who deliver all aspects of men’s cutting and styling along with grooming and shaving education. Why do you share your education: We want to share our education because we believe this is the only way to learn and grow your team from a creative and business perspective. Best piece of education advice: Listen and make sure you take it all in. Why sign-up: The men’s market is massive and it’s growing all of the time. We can offer you the skills and confidence you need to grow your business and expand your creativity and expertise in this area. How to sign-up: Email general manager Abby Raworth at abby@theloungesoho.co.uk.

Name: Tommy’s Hair Company Education type: Tommy’s Hair School and Education Centre apprenticeship programmes are led by the Welsh Government and supported by the European Social Fund. Location: North Wales The USP: The national award-winning team is the only private NVQ certified hairdressing educational facility in North and Mid Wales. We guide students through our extensive knowledge when delivering an NVQ and will hand down our expertise on an exceptional level of teaching. The ‘stylist for life’ ethos of education means students gain practical and soft skills which will set them ahead of the game, as we tailor make their education to highlight each individual’s own strengths and challenge their weaknesses. Why do you share your education: We realised at the beginning of our academy days that education in hairdressing

wasn’t where it should be and we wanted to give something back and grow education and training in North Wales. Best piece of education advice: Be patient. When you learn something new you’re full of ideas and can’t wait to share your knowledge in the salon. Take a few days to think about your new skill before using it on the salon floor while still remaining enthusiastic. Why sign-up: We work with smaller groups and make education and training more bespoke and tailored to each individual. We have the most experienced team in North Wales when it comes to training. Our educators are extremely well organised and passionate in what they do. How to sign-up: Go to tommyshaircompany.com and complete a course application form online. We like to invite new students into the salon so they can get a feel for Tommy’s and our education department.

‘The one for advanced and classic cut and colour training’ Name: Contemporary Education Location: North-East England Education type: Advanced and classic cutting and colouring training and an NVQ provider for salons in the North-East. The USP: We have a wealth of highly experienced educators, including award-winning hairdressers who share their skills from classic, intermediate and advanced cutting and colouring to barbering, long hair and session hair. Why do you share your education: We believe education is knowledge that can help you gain new skills and 46 / hji.co.uk

confidence with your clients. Best piece of education advice: The more time you devote to learning your craft, the more confidence you will have to achieve your dreams. Why sign-up: We can offer training in our academy in Middlesbrough or bespoke training in your salon where we can personalise education to suit your requirements. How to sign-up: Email enquiries@contemporarysalons. com, call 01642 227060 or send a direct message to @Contemporaryartteam on Instagram.


EDUCATION AND TRAINING ‘The one for students who want to develop all-round business skills’ Name: Sanrizz Education type: Sanrizz Scholarship Programme Location: St Albans The USP: Direct training for anyone who is attending the Sanrizz Education Centre or completing an NVQ course with a local college. Working in a salon environment allows students and stylists the chance to develop their skills, shadow stylists and technicians and understand salon etiquette. Over 12-months, students complete a number of stages with their mentors and finally graduate as a hairstylist. We train students on how to cut, colour and style, but also how to be successful in retail sales and how to market salon services to increase the client base. Why do you share your education: The hairdressing industry is not just a business – it is a community. We share new and innovative ideas to help develop the industry and create new trends. Best piece of education advice: If you ever lose your vision, go back to cutting a parallel one length as it teaches you control of sections and discipline of the line. This inspires you to understand shape and texture to revive your vision. Why sign-up: We are fully committed to offering continuous career development coupled with enviable career options. The distinctive style of teaching stems from decades of experience. Our team of educators are renowned for their hairdressing skills and passion for tailor-made tuition. How to sign-up: Go to sanrizzacademy.co.uk, call 01707665880 or email info@sanrizz.co.uk. We also have the Sanrizz network which is a fantastic opportunity for like-minded, independent salon owners to join an annual education programme spread across nine days.

‘The one with educators who can help you develop your career’ Name: Rainbow Room International Education type: Professional courses for hairdressers wishing to learn new skills or perfect existing ones, including barbering, geometric principles, long hair, retail, principles in practice and salon creativity. Location: Glasgow The USP: Our educators are all Rainbow Room International directors who started out as apprentices and have grown to own their own salons and manage their own teams. We also think our reputation in the industry allows us to stand out and bring in many hairdressers from the UK and overseas. Why do you share your education: We believe it’s important to keep updating your knowledge if you want to stay ahead in this industry.

We want you to stay up-to-date with the latest trends so you can give clients what they want. Best piece of education advice: Push yourself to be the very best to develop yourself and inspire those around you. Why sign-up: The professional courses at the Rainbow Room International Academy allow stylists to learn new skills while perfecting existing ones. The Academy course mentors are top stylists who have won a number of awards and accolades, which shows their credibility and industry knowledge. The mentors also train to the highest of standards, which is important. The mentors have all worked on the floor themselves, which is incredibly important as it makes the whole process of training more real and relevant. How to sign-up: Call the Academy on 0141 221 0400 or send an email to academy@ rainbowroominternational.com. 47 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“Style Struck is the first collaborative shoot from the Wahl Style Team. Our concept was to create a collection of trend-driven wearable looks using the Style Collection tools to create beautiful textures.” Michael Young

STYLE STRUCK Set the scene with trend-led textures

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FASHION

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FASHION

Hair: Wahl Style Team (Joshua Goldsworthy, Sophie Gibson, James Nicklin, Alex Morton, Jonathan Turner and Diana Carson) Art Direction: Hooker & Young Make-up: Kirsten Baillie Photography: Michael Young

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FASHION

“We wanted to create a relatable collection that was unique to the individual. Every image holds its own and is a bold statement in its own way.� Jess and Mikayla at Sutherland & Barnett

Hair: Jess McFarlane and Mikayla Ragozins at Sutherland & Barnett, Nottingham Make-up: Katie Elnor Styling: One BC Photography: Rob Smalley at Scene Photography

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ring the best of nature to your salon with Revlon Professional’s Eksperience Professional Talassotherapy. This exclusive multi-step salon service opens up a world of indulgent and highly effective scalp and hair treatments to your clients. The luxury treatment was developed from scientific research, formulated with marine ingredients and carried out with wellness rituals to bring the spa experience to your salon. The beauty rituals and massages featured in the

service will awaken and pamper all of your client’s senses. Formulated with marine spring water, algae and trace elements, the products are freshly made just before each treatment for an optimal performance and to bring a touch of theatre to your salon’s backwash. The whole Eksperience Start the Talassotherapy service by mixing a marine algae multivitamin cocktail treatment with a specific essential extract and boost for a purifying and fresh professional experience.

1 2 Eksperience Marine Algae Scalp Treatment What is it: An extremely fine micronized seaweed extract powder that includes ingredients such as microalga spirulina platensis, vitamin B complex and silica which aim to soothe and treat the scalp. How to use it: Mix 4 level measuring scoops of Eksperience Algae Powder with 50ml of Essential Oil Extract to prepare the Activemud Pack.

Create a bespoke scalp treatment Identify your client’s key needs and find the boost that’s perfect for them... For soothing sensitive scalps Eksperience Dermo Calm Essential Extract How to use it: Prepare the Scalp Comfort Activemud by mixing 4 level measuring scoops of Eksperience Algae Powder with 50ml of Dermo Calm Essential Oil Extract.

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Eksperience™ contains the exclusive aquamaris complex – a combination of marine spring water from the shores of Noirmoutier island in France which contains specific algaes that are rich in trace elements, oligopeptides and amino acids.

Treat the hair After applying the scalp treatments, smooth the Eksperience Hair Remineralizing Mud Pack onto the lengths and ends of the hair.

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How to use it: Prepare the Anti Hair Loss Activemud by mixing 4 level measuring scoops of Eksperience Algae Powder with 50ml of Revitalising Essential Oil Extract.

How to use it: Prepare the Anti Hair Loss Activemud by mixing 4 level measuring scoops of Eksperience Algae Powder with 50ml of Purifying Essential Oil Extract.

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How to use it: Measure the mud using the Eksperience spatula. Using the specially-designed Eksperience brush, spread the mixture onto the lengths and ends of the hair when dry. Leave on for four to five minutes and rinse the hair thoroughly.


FASHION

y l n e v Hea Creatures A

ersity of life iv d e th f o n celebratio

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FASHION

“We live in a fragile and precious world that sustains life. I wanted to create a collection that celebrates life, diversity and its creatures. The hair is about uniqueness to the individual with geometric shapes allowed to dry with a natural wave. This collection features a combination of different textures, curls and waves. We also used a razor to create graphic and architectural shapes.� Shane Henning 57 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Shane Henning at Noddy’s on King, Sydney, Australia Make-up: Laura Nolan Photography: Troyt Coburn

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What it does: Banishes brassiness, softens strands, and adds shine in natural and colour-treated blondes. How it works: Violet-tinted, colour-enhancing formula brings out the best in blonde, white and silver hair. Added bonus: Conditioning ingredients and extracts hydrate hair and intensify shine.

What it does: Hydrates and helps cool brassy tones in blonde, white and silver hair. How it works: Violet-tinted, colour-enhancing formula eliminates warmth, softens strands and adds shine. Added bonus: Helps keep blonde hair light, bright and conditioned.

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The anti-fashion collection

FASHION

MUD

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FASHION

“This shoot was inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s A/W 1983 MUD collection with a particular focus on ‘anti-fashion’ fashion. We featured our community and the people of Brighton as models and muses.” SWH Art Team

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FASHION

Hair: SWH Art Team at Simon Webster Hair (Simon, Lora, Dan, Hayley, Rhiannon and Max) for KMS Hair and Goldwell Make-up: Xoe Kingsley Styling: Greg Bailey Photography: Kenny McCracken

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FASHION

ASHES Use luxe textures to make the hair move as if it were painted with a brushstroke

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FASHION

“A collection inspired by the work of the great Baroque painter Caravaggio. It draws inspiration from the deep mood and tones of the Baroque art movement. Ashes is a collection of touchable textures captured in motion that adds an honest real image.” Richi Grisillo

Hair: Richi Grisillo Make-up: Mikele Simone Styling: Cheryl Tan Photography: Andrew O’Toole

72 / hji.co.uk



LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019 PRESENTED BY

SALON AND SEMINARS BaByliss PRO • Mahogany • Patrick Cameron • RUSH • SACO Academy • Sassoon Academy • Schwarzkopf Professional • TONI&GUY • Trevor Sorbie All Salon Live tickets include 1 day exhibition entrance Check out the full line up at www.salonshow.co.uk/salonliveseminars

TO BOOK TICKETS: CALL 0844 581 4915 or VISIT www.salonshow.co.uk/booklive


FOUR FREE TO ATTEND LIVE STAGES

HJ Stage, HJ Men Stage, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing & New Talent Stage www.salonshow.co.uk #Salon19


FASHION

CURLS, CURLS, CURLS Celebrate and embrace your client’s natural curly texture

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FASHION

“We wanted to reshape women’s perception of how they view themselves and others. We wanted to show that we should be celebrating a client’s natural texture and embracing beautiful curly hair. Using precision cutting techniques and contouring each curl with clever colour placement we have created a selection of bespoke, beautiful and effortless looks.” Melissa Timperley

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FASHION

Hair: Melissa Timperley Salon Creative Team Make-up: Beth Anderson Photography: Victoria Haydn

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DREAM TEAM? It takes time and effort to create the perfect salon team, so it is important to hold on to them for as long as possible. NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall shares her tips for keeping your staff motivated and happy

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reating a dream team of loyal and hardworking high-performers takes time and effort, says NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. You will need to motivate, engage and reward your staff to ensure the ongoing success of your salon. Start as you mean to go on When taking on new staff make time for regular performance reviews and offer constructive feedback as well as praise for a job well done, says Hilary. “Mentoring, monitoring and supporting a new team member from day one will inspire their loyalty and help to ensure they feel appreciated. This will pay dividends for your business in the long-term.” Involve the team “Hold regular meetings with your team and encourage their ideas and contributions so they feel valued and involved in decisions that are made,” advises Hilary. “Take the opportunity to highlight staff who have made an exceptional effort and always make it clear that you are available for one-to-ones to discuss any private concerns your staff may have.” NHF/NBF members can download a detailed guide to managing staff

performance for free by going to nhf.info/performance.

saying thank you. It’s a small gesture but will make a big difference to how your staff feel. Always notice when your staff have gone that extra mile and recognise their efforts.”

Encourage career development You should show a genuine interest in the professional development of your team members. Hilary says: “Set clear Dealing with underperformance goals and targets, provide training You will need to act promptly if opportunities so they can learn someone is underperforming, Hilary new skills and encourage friendly points out. “This will minimise the competition among your staff. For negative impact on your other staff example, you could start and business and will also ‘employee of the month’ help to sort things out and provide special staff as quickly as possible. More support awards for particular Bear in mind that from the NHF/NBF achievements.” your employee may have health or For less than 75p a day, Show your personal problems, the NHF/NBF offers a wide appreciation or you may need range of legal, employment Always look for to provide clearer and financial help, plus ways to show goals and more brilliant ideas for managing your appreciation support and people and boosting when your staff training.” your business. are doing a great Go to nhf.info/ job, says Hilary. “You stressed-employee to can offer discounts on find out how to support retail products, extra time a stressed employee. In off or a special team outing some cases, it will be necessary which is also an excellent to start formal performance team-building exercise.” management proceedings but always In addition, make a point of take legal advice before doing so. remembering staff birthdays with a NHF/NBF membership includes high street or coffee shop voucher. free access to a 24/7 HR legal “Don’t forget the importance of helpline: nhf.info/legal-advice.

Visit nhf.info/join or call 01234 831 965 for more information. Join the NHF/NBF before the end of August 2019 and quote HJA25 to get £25 off your membership fee. 79 / hji.co.uk


Be in the moment and create what you love

IMPROMPTU

FASHION

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FASHION

“This collection was born from a desire and a need to leave behind my daily world of ‘on-trend’ hair just for a moment and allow myself to just create. The styles have an undone and almost morning after vibe. The styling is simplistic, uncluttered and in some cases dishevelled but with a decidedly sexy feel.” Kerrie DiMattia

Hair: Kerrie DiMattia Make-up: Candice Battersby Styling: DiMattia & Co Team Photography: Pixie Bella

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FASHION

Kidulthood These styles are too cool for school “I wanted to create a fresh and memorable collection with a group of young people. It features a range of soft colouring, styling and accessories to make the hair wearable.� Brooke Evans, Brooke Evans Salon

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FASHION

Hair: Brooke Evans at Brooke Evans Salon Hair assistants: Olivia Downing and Fay Evans Make-up: Katie Glover Photography: Lauren Kate Photography

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LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019 PRESENTED BY

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EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

PRESENTED BY


GET THE LOOK

Hair: Larisa Love for Joico Hair assistant: Mai Fernandez Make-up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Chris Bulezuik

e f i L e d Blon Larisa Love creates a beautiful and healthy nde sunkissed blo 89 / hji.co.uk


GET THE LOOK

I prepped my model’s hair Start by dividing the hair using 1 2 with Joico Defy Damage my ‘arrowhead’ technique to ProSeries 1, spraying in short bursts create this gorgeous face framing throughout the head to protect the hair and keep it healthy, shiny and strong.

dimensional balayage using FreePlay Clay Lightener.

I use what I call the ‘hairgami’ I section out the back of the 3 4 technique, which means I fold head in a moon shape, the foils in a certain way to save section in slices and then weave

I fold the foil into a moon 5 shape to save time and leave to develop for 30 minutes. Create

on application time.

a gloss with LumiShine DemiPermanent Liquid 10NW + 5 Volume LumiShine Developer.

out highlights.

Rinse and towel dry. Apply Tone the hair with the new Rinse and use Defy Damage 6 8 Defy Damage ProSeries 2 Bond 7 Blonde Life Quick Toners in Shampoo and Conditioner Strengthening Color Treatment. Silver, Sand and Clear, which tone before styling the hair into your Leave on for five minutes, rinse and towel dry.

in five minutes. I left the toner on for three minutes and her colour was perfect.

desired look.

“Healthy hair will never go out of style. I made my model’s hair super light while maintaining the health and integrity of her hair to give her a beautiful white blonde.” Larisa Love 90 / hji.co.uk



PRESENTED BY

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019

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T HE HOT LIST

Looking rosy

Texture is key

Client approved

Guy Tang Mydentity #Stroke 7 Rosé Balayage Lightener is a rose-tinted powder that provides up to 7 levels of lift. Pair with Thicc Balayage Activator to create a flawless blend in one application.

Specially formulated for longer tresses Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSiS+ Long Hair Texture range delivers weightless texture, natural movement and volume. From £13.15

Created by Bruno Marc and tested by the Marc Antoni salon team, TAOH (The Art of Hair) is a sulphate and paraben-free range of cleansing and styling products designed with clients in mind.

Silver locks

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Neutralise silver, white and platinum hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Silver Conditioner. With babussu oil and violet hues, it nourishes hair while fighting yellow tones. RRP £13.50

Kevin Murphy Session.Spray Flex is a lightweight finishing hairspray that delivers hold without any crunch. The product finds the delicate balance between keeping hair moisturised but frizz-free.

Paul Mitchell Platinum Blonde Shampoo has two new partners – Platinum Blonde Conditioner and Toning Spray. Together they banish unwanted brassiness from blonde locks. From £16.50

Holiday helpers

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Each product in the Revlon Professional Eksperience Sun Pro range contains nutrient-rich algae and pure sea water. The four-piece line-up helps to protect, detangle, soften and nourish the hair.

The IDHair Hair Paint Intense Natural /00 range is a neutral to cool colour system range that’s double pigmented. It’s the perfect choice for giving 100% grey coverage and has an opaque finish.

Now in the UK, Eleven Australia is a cruelty-free range created by photographer Andrew O’Toole and Australian Hairdresser of the Year Joey Scandizzo. Available from Wonderful Brands.

93 / hji.co.uk


T HE HOT LIST

Oil up

15 th anniversary

Heat is on

The Kérastase Soleil range now contains Huile Sirène, which is an oil mist for thicker and curly textures. It guards against salt, sand and chlorine so it’s perfect for holidays. RRP £23.80

Matakki is celebrating its 15th anniversary with the launch of three new scissors in matte rose gold, matte blue and matte black. Each model features a durable matte Teflon titanium treatment. £150

Hot Muk Thermal Protector is a triple win for hair. It shields against damage from heating appliances, locks out humidity to reduce frizz and the UV protectors guard against colour fade and sun damage. £11.75

Protection is key

Sunny side up

Accessorise it

Designed for extensions wearers and non-wearers alike Great Lengths Heat Protection Spray shields hair from everyday damage caused by styling, drying and heat. RRP £14.95

milk_shake Sun & More is back. The range contains a cleansing shampoo, a mask enriched with hydrating muru muru butter and the Incredible Milk Sun spray with UV filters. From £14.19

Balmain Paris Hair Couture Les Accessoires is a new handmade hair accessory collection. The Leather Hair Barrette features a 14K gold plated hairpin with an engraved logo. RRP £225

Hair clip 2.0

Natural power

Way to grow

The unique three-dimensional wave shape of Invisibobble Waver offers a substitute to conventional clips, barrettes and slides. It provides a strong, hair-friendly hold that leaves no traces in a client’s tresses.

An alternative to Redken’s cult ranges, All Soft, Extreme and Color Extend, the new Redken NATURE + SCIENCE is a collection of shampoos and conditioners made with naturally derived ingredients.

Grow by Hair Gain is a new supplement available through salons that harnesses the power of the pea shoot, zinc and biotin to give hair growth results after one month of use.

94 / hji.co.uk


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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media


INTERIORS

GLAMOUR

TO GO Fizz, fun and fabulous hair is at the heart of the Duck & Dry Mayfair salon

B

low-dry bars have become a go-to destination for consumers in the UK, and Duck & Dry remains at the forefront of the trend. Duck & Dry Mayfair is the fifth branch to open and it’s a testament to how the brand has gone from strength to strength since it launched in 2014. The story began when founder Yulia Rorstrom noticed a trend in the US for blow-dry bars whilst working in

97 / hji.co.uk


INTERIORS

YULIA’S TOP TIPS • Get the basics right Laying down the right foundations in terms of electrics and plumbing is essential for any business. • Lighting is key Welcoming lighting was crucial for us. We used discreet track lighting for warmth and pendants for statement areas like the prosecco bar. • Create the right mood We put a lot of focus into our breakout areas as it was important to create a cool environment.

the finance sector. “I loved the energy and the buzz of blow-dry bars in the US and realised the environment was lacking in the UK,” she explains. Yulia decided to recreate that buzz here in the UK with salons that feature prosecco bars, on-brand wallpaper and Instagrammable birdcage swings. She has made the salon luxurious without being intimidating. It’s a place where clients can come with friends to gossip, get glam and hang out. “Our client base is wide – we have guests from the ages of 16 up to 60. What they all have in common is they are looking for somewhere other than a traditional salon,” explains Yulia. The new addition to the Duck & Dry chain in Mayfair continues the untraditional theme. With its signature styling ‘egg pods’, glamorous

bar, hanging plants and fun neon slogans, it looks more like a bar than a salon. The walls are a mixture of exposed bricks, tiling and wood panelling and the colour scheme nods to the brand’s signature peacock hue with coloured styling chairs and splashes of pink and mustard hues. Pendants hang over focal points such as the prosecco and brow bar, whereas discreet track lighting that is both functional and flattering has been used elsewhere. “It adds warmth and it also creates great selfie lighting,” adds Yulia. All of this was created in eight weeks from a concrete shell unit, which is a real testament to the driving force that is Duck & Dry and Yulia. We look forward to seeing where the Duck & Dry brand hatches next. 98 / hji.co.uk

FACT FILE Name: Duck & Dry Mayfair Address: 33 North Audley Street, Mayfair, London Owner: Yulia Rorstrom How long have you been in the premises: 2 months How many stations: 12 styling stations and 3 brow stations


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CAREERS

Tom Connell

The Artistic Director Trevor Sorbie’s Tom uses his personal interests outside of the hairdressing world to innovate rather than replicate. Discover how he comes up with new ideas and his tips for staying true to your long-term vision What was your route into hair?

My journey into becoming a hairstylist started from a young age. My parents owned a salon so I’ve been around hair almost every day for as long as I can remember – it was a natural progression for me. Can you tell us about your role?

I’m artistic director at Trevor Sorbie so my role is an extremely varied one. The job covers everything from overseeing the brand’s overall creative aesthetic and strategy to heading up our photoshoot and live show projects, to looking after a busy clientele. It’s a role I always wanted.

not for an award, money or fame. You should create for the work itself and if you do it for you, the right people will eventually notice and will want to see more from you.

What’s your styling philosophy? What challenges have you faced in your career so far and how have you overcome them?

The pros are that I have been given the opportunity to have creative control over a prestigious company that I’ve admired for so many years. The cons are that this level of responsibility will always come with a huge amount of scrutiny. The aim is to cancel out that noise and stay true to the vision that I’m trying to create.

I’d say the biggest creative challenge I’ve had is being at a point of thinking the work I was creating had something original to it, but at the same time knowing it was nowhere near the standard it needed to be. The only way to close that gap is to do a lot of work – each time assess its strength, and more importantly its weaknesses. Learn from that process and improve with each piece of work. Hopefully over time the ideas you produce will start to live up to the ideals you have in your head.

What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

What are your tips for someone aspiring to have a career like yours?

Create original work for yourself and

Use your interests outside of the

What are the pros and cons of your role?

industry to inform your work. If you look too much inside the hairdressing world, it will lead to replication rather than innovation.

100 / hji.co.uk

To cut in accordance with someone’s character just as much as their bone structure or hair type. What is your favourite account to follow on Instagram?

My favourite account is called @patternity – the feed is packed with inspirational patterns from the world around us. What is your signature look?

I really enjoy carving out strong shapes with a razor. What’s next for your career?

I want to continue Trevor’s legacy of exploring what’s possible with hair, while creating experimental photographic collections and live shows around the world that will make people excited about hairdressing.


JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

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We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team

L I F E S T Y L E

DEVELOP YOUR CAREER

DIFFERENTLY

COLOUR DIRECTOR | STYLISTS/COLOURISTS | SALON HOSTS London W1 AVEDA SALONS ARE DIFFERENT; our unique business model combines the art of hairdressing, beauty, the environment and well-being, to power many of the industry’s most profitable salons and top-earning salon professionals We’re curating an exceptional team with first-rate technical skills, strong commercial acumen, and a passion for service, for our stunning boutique salon in the heart of London’s West End. Remuneration packages are highly attractive and, with an individual devlelopment plan to ensure your continued progress, we’ll ensure you develop your career differently. SEND A CV AND A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO: MICHAEL@FRESHLIFESTYLE.CO.UK

102 / hji.co.uk

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re opport i JOIN THE RUSH FAMILY TODAY! 020 3474 4102 careers@rush.co.uk careers.rush.co.uk VISIT US ON STAND M140 AT SALON INTERNATIONAL For tickets to Salon International and Rush Live, visit www.salonshow.co.uk/rush

WINNER 2017/18 ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR


RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

Technician / Stylist Banstead, Surrey Are you living in Surrey, working in a London salon and tired of commuting? We have a vacancy for a creative technician/stylist who has comprehensive experience in all aspects of hairdressing. 5 days per week Salary- £45,000 per annum Call Jane on 07730678950 Call Clifford on 07789733339 Applications via email can be made to cliffordhunt@btconnect.com

Oliver Stephens have been in the heart of Soho for 10 years and have been nominated as L’oreal Colour Trophy Finalists 8 years in a row. We are looking for an enthusiastic Stylist to progress their career in all aspects of hair. All levels of experience considered with ongoing training available. We are a small, family run boutique salon with big opportunities available to the right candidate. Base salary and commission structure in place to progress as your column grows. Please email your CV to oliver@oliverstephens.com

CLASSIFIED PROPERTY

FULL TIME STYLIST WANTED ChandlerWright is a long standing and award-winning Label M salon with a young creative team based in the heart of Blackheath Village. ChandlerWright has assisted at London Fashion Week for the past 4 years and encourages creativity through photoshoots, workshops and national competitions. Competitive salary. Please email your CV to info@chandlerwright.co.uk or call 020 8318 2809

Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Edgware / Mill Hill area, North London. Good Class Hair Salon. New Lease. £2,000wk. Owner retiring. £39,500 (or £460,000 F’hold inc 2 Bed Flat) Guildford area. High Class Salon. Quality fitted throughout. 12 styling positions. £5,000wk (5 days). Good profits. Owner retiring. £400,000 Freehold Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Reading area. Old Established Hair Salon. Good Class Area. Lease. Spacious Salon. Eleven styling positions. £2,500wk (5 days). £35,000 West Berks, near Newbury. Developing Country Town near Newbury. Very Smart Hair Salon + Two Beauty Rooms. Lse. Top Class Fitout. £4,250wk. £39,950 West Berks - few miles Newbury - High Class Country Town. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £1,800wk. Scope younger owner. £10,000 Woking near, Surrey. Hair Salon. Wealthy Village Centre. Lease @ £13,000p.a. Same owner 12 years. Under trading. £18,000

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INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens T Elegant beauty

“This was one of the first shoots I did with this model and I think this whole image is so ironically beautiful. The way her hand emulates her hair is so elegant.”

Bruno Marc

Bruno Marc is the artistic team creative director of Marc Antoni Hairdressing, which is HJ’s 2018 British Hairdressing Awards Artistic Team of the Year. Here are six of his favourite creations W Extremely long and sexy hair

“This model was a make-up artist and had never modelled before. Her hair was naturally long to her waist and I added a few pieces at the back and to the side. She kept her arms down and all of the hair at the back was blown forward while her natural hair was kept under her arms so it all connected.”

X Air hostess hat

“This shot just ‘happened’ when we were shooting what turned out to be my winning Southern Collection for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, in 2007. The model had waist-length hair and it was the last shot of the day. I mustered all the energy I had to split the hair into two and create an air hostess hat. Bernard Connolly styled her and we took the shot. She was in the studio for no more than two hours.”

T Short and graphic

“My time managing the FAME Team is one of my career highlights. I worked on this model during a session with the team and Bruce Masefield. I used straightening irons to create a powerful and graphic image.”

X A head of curls

“We originally had an idea of shooting this model straight on, but it wasn’t working. Photographer Andrew O’Toole suggested taking the shot from the side. As soon as we took the shot, I thought – wow! You have to trust other people’s opinions and experience of photographic work.” 106 / hji.co.uk

W The 10/10 shot

“This is one of my favourites as I love strong shapes and it is timeless. It was a real close short back and sides. The whole model’s expression with her gaze and pulling on her braces at the front – I just felt it was a 10/10 shot.”


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