Hairdressers Journal June 2019

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

Sizzling Styles June 2019

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CONTENTS

June 2019 News

10

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

14

HJ Reports L’Oréal Professionnel celebrates its 110th anniversary in Paris

18

HJ Reports Business advice from the Goldwell Hub Network in Sicily

22

Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our website and social channels

Business

26

Strictly Professional How to maintain professional boundaries in the salon

30

Client Confidential Jo Robertson shares the secrets to understanding your ideal clients

35

The Debate Should you employ a receptionist in the salon?

38

Business Panel Competitive pricing in your local area

46

You’re Worth it Gianni Scumaci shares his mission to awaken a hairdresser’s self-worth

49

Style it Out The key styling trends to know now

51

Global Colour Blonde trends around the world and the new anti-damage products

AVLON

Features

67 Inspiration

67

Regulars

42 22

Fashion Eight exclusive fashion collections

95

Membership offer Ten new members will have the chance to win a TIGI Copyright Care set The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month 6 / hji.co.uk

98

Interiors Take a tour around Rush’s 100th salon in Westfield White City

101

Careers A day in the life of a West End theatre wig designer

106

Life Through a Lens Afro Hairdresser of the Year Michelle Thompson shares six of her all-time favourite images

51

RUSH

EDITOR’S LETTER

TIGI

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

98

We l c o m e

Managing Director Mark Moloney

Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

T

he HJ Team would like to give a massive congratulations to this year’s nine British Hairdresser of the Year nominees, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional.

There’s still time to submit your entries for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards regional and specialist categories.

Go to hji.co.uk/bha to read the category criteria and send us your images before the Friday 21 June deadline.

There’s also still time to be crowned an HJ British Hairdressing Business Awards winner as we are accepting entries until Friday 14 June at 5pm.

Summer is finally here so in this issue we’re helping you prepare for the new season with a colour feature dedicated to sunkissed blondes and the essential products that will protect your clients’ hair from damage. Plus, our Summer Lovin’ feature on page 49 translates all of the hottest hairstyling trends from the catwalk into wearable looks for your clients in the salon.

This month’s business panel discuss whether you should have a competitive pricing structure for your local area (page 38) and two salon owners debate the pros and cons of having a receptionist or front of house team in the salon on page 35. Our exclusive interview with Gianni Scumaci on page 46 evaluates the emotional intelligence of a hairdresser and why our industry should be placing more value on what we do to help others on a daily basis.

I hope the sun comes out for all of us this month and I wish you the best of luck with compiling your awards entries.

See you next month!

On the cover:

Hair: The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Colour Project with Robert Eaton Make-up: Lucy Flower Styling: Stacey Jane Shaw at Russell Eaton Photography: Richard Miles Correction HJ would like to amend the credits for the cover and collection ‘By Kevin Luchmun’ that was featured in HJ Men’s summer issue. Hair: Kevin Luchmun, Make-up: Kelly Mendiola, Styling: Mekel Bailey, Photography: Kevin Luchmun

7 / hji.co.uk

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536

REMIXING THE TRENDVISION

AWARD

REGIONAL HEATS LIKE YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN BEFORE… The brand-new format for the Wella TrendVision Award

The competition area was buzzing with nerves and

Regional Heats #WellaCreativeRemix saw a vibrant

excitement as esteemed judges deliberated over competitors’

atmosphere in each venue across the UK.

looks. Competitors enjoyed their moment in the lime light parading the catwalk with their beautiful models in front of

The live DJ was playing whilst guests moved between several

the lively crowd during the evening show.

demonstration areas where creative minds of the industry were producing their looks. Guests could also browse the

The standard of execution was higher than ever, with both

photographic stage competitor gallery and see Robert Eaton’s

salon and self-employed hairdressers competing for their

amazing wig collection for the TrendVision UK & Ireland Final

place at TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Final.

2018 up close, including the exact mixtures and formulas used. The crowd enjoyed the shows from D&J Ambrose and

The Final will take place at the iconic Roundhouse in Camden

HOB Academy as well as the local artists Medusa, KH Hair,

on 30th September. The tickets will go on sale in July, for

DNA Artspace and P.Kai Hair who made the evening not only

more information go to www.wella.co.uk/trendvision

entertaining but inspirational.

WellaProfessionls

@WellaPro

@WellaHairUK

#WellaTVA

#WellaCreativeRemix

Regional Winners

The 40 UK regional winners will be joined by the winners of the Ireland heat, which takes place on 19th August in Dublin.

Congratulations to all the UK TrendVision Award 2019 Regional Winners!

Regional Winners - Scotland & North East

Regional Winners - Midlands

NAME CAROLINE STEEL FLORENCE NEILSON GARETH GORDON KELLY EVANS MARIE RAMMINGER NATASHA CAMERON NICOLA MOUAT SARAH WILSON SHAREE GRAHAM SOPHIE KINLOCH

NAME HELEN TETHER NURU MARCUS PERKINS HOLLY THOMPSON RICHARD POTTS JOANNE ROE JESS MACFARLANE LEAH HODGKINS EMMA MELIA CHLOE EDWARDS BEN SUTCLIFFE

SALON FAITH RHONA MCCALLUM HAIR BAU HAIR DESIGN WONDERLAND DREAM HAIR MCINTYRES SALONS MEDUSA STOCKBRIDGE MEDUSA SPOILED HAIRDRESSING MCINTYRES SALONS

Regional Winners - South NAME BRANDON MESSINGER WENDY LONG KAHO MATSUI GJORGI SOKOLOV NICOLE LAWRENCE GEORGIA DAY THOMAS FREAR EDEN SPARK EMILY WORBOYS DEXTER DAPPER JOHNSON

SALON HELEN TETHER AWARD WINNING HAIR M&M SPA PKAI HAIR RAGE KH HAIR LEICESTER SUTHERLAND & BARNETT SIXTH SENSE SALON PKAI HAIR REBEL ROCK HAIR & MAKE UP KH HAIR

Regional Winners - North SALON THE HAIR MOVEMENT STONE ETON CROP HEADMASTERS RICHMOND ABSTRACT HAIRDRESSING ADAM AND EVE HAIR SPIRIT HAIR DESIGN EDEN SPARK AT STANDENMAY HAIR LOUNGE 47 TONI&GUY COVENT GARDEN

NAME ANNA PLEAVIN CERYS BOWEN ELAINE SNEDDON ELIZABETH WILLIAMS HEATHER MACKENZIE JENNY ADDYMAN JOE NAYLOR LUSIE ELGEY SARAH LINLEY STEPHANIE DARBYSHIRE

SALON SOUL HAIR BLOOD MOON JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR KH HAIR HINCKLEY THE STYLE BAR JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR TINT UNIQUE THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER TONI & GUY DEANSGATE

NEWS

INDUSTRY NEWS PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

Meet the Nominees HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by

Schwarzkopf Professional, has revealed the nine hairdressers who have been nominated for the coveted British Hairdresser of the Year 2019 title.

The nine nominees are reigning British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks, Angelo Seminara, Eugene Souleiman, Hooker & Young (Gary Hooker and Michael Young), Cos Sakkas, Errol Douglas, Darren Ambrose, Robert Eaton and Adam Reed.

Hairdressers Journal International’s executive director Jayne Lewis-Orr said: “A huge thank you to everyone who took the time to nominate and gave it so much thought and consideration, and massive congratulations to our nominees who represent all that is great about British hairdressing.”

Schwarzkopf Professional’s general manager Julian Crane added: “Huge congratulations to all the nominees from everyone at Schwarzkopf Professional.

We are looking forward to seeing the collections in November at the British Hairdressing Awards.”

Hair Industry Shares Tributes for Sean Nolan

NHF’s first Hair and Beauty Community Awards

T

he first Hair and Beauty Community Awards by the National Hairdressers Federation and National Beauty Federation was held at the Houses of Parliament last month with a number of MPs in attendance to show their appreciation of the UK’s hair and beauty industry.

The awards celebrate the initiatives hair salons and barbershops undertake to support their local communities.

The community impact award was given to John Belfield International (pictured) – a salon that

There is still time to submit your entries for the specialist and regional British Hairdressing Awards categories. Go to hji.co.uk/ bha and make sure you send your entry form and images to HJ’s offices before 5pm on 21 June 2019.

supports mothers and children who are victims of domestic violence.

The fundraising award was given to The Head Gardener. The salon raised £200,000 for the Highland Hospice from a number of activities such as cycling, running and a fundraising event called ‘Stylish of the North’.

Sean Nolan, head of technical for HOB Salons and Academy, tragically passed away at the age of 37 last month. A star of the hair world and a much-loved figure, Sean suffered from a brain haemorrhage while he was working on the HOB Academy show for the Wella Trend Vision Awards tour in Scotland.

The HOB Salons and Academy team said: “Sean was a colour legend in his own right. A born creative, a dynamic performer and a passionate advocate of education. He will be deeply missed by the whole HOB family and everyone that knew or worked with him.”

Wella Studio operations manager Judith Holmes added: “Sean was an amazing guest colourist and colour creative. He shared his passion, creativity and energy with everyone he met. We loved working with Sean and he will be truly missed by us all at Wella Professionals.”

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NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

Salon Networking Forum HJ’s Salon Networking Forum is launching in Birmingham on 1 July for hair, beauty and spa professionals following the success of networking events at the HJ Live and Professional Beauty exhibitions in London and Manchester.

Designed to tackle the difficulties salon businesses face the forum will enable salon owners to share challenges, ideas and solutions with like-minded professionals and industry experts. The aim is to give hairdressing professionals the chance to learn from each other’s experiences and find support that may not otherwise be available.

The forum is on Monday 1 July 2019 in Central Birmingham. To book tickets go to hji.co.uk/awards-events/hair-salonnetworking-forum-birmingham.

Charity Bike Rides

High Street Heroes Campaign 2019

T

Rush Launches New Colour Identity

9am The start of the day is the busiest and most profitable for hair salons, according to salon management software company Versum.

Salons see four times more clients and earn nearly seven times more at 9am than they do at 6pm. The peak time-frame continues through to lunch with 61% of appointments completed by 1pm. The report came from 325,000 British and Irish hair and beauty salon clients.

he High Street Heroes campaign with SME Insurance Services has named the UK’s favourite high street hair salons. The campaign aims to recognise the successful independent hair salons throughout the UK who are bringing life, character and individuality to local communities and high streets.

The winning hair salons from this year’s campaign are Boris and Co (Leeds), Joules Hair Design (Prestwich, Manchester, pictured) and Salon M (Wallasey, Wirral, pictured below).

Rush has announced a new creative colour identity campaign, Colour Artists, with L’Oréal Professionnel. It will celebrate the expertise of Rush Hair’s stylists in its 100 salons across the UK. Fuelled by research into what clients understand about beauty services the Rush senior team discovered a huge gap in what people know about the terminology, techniques and price structures of a colour service. Rush international colour director Chris Williams believes the campaign will give transparency to customers in terms of cost, final result expectations and what is possible during an appointment.

Six looks have been unveiled to celebrate the campaign and showcase the colour skills at Rush, including balayage, ombré, highlights and global colour, alongside two trend-led coral and platinum looks.

Three charity initiatives to help people in need were announced this month...

• Kevin Murphy team members are currently on a 350-mile cycle from London to Paris to raise money for breast cancer charity, CoppaFeel.

• Headmasters is joining the Teenage Cancer Trust on its London to Amsterdam cycle challenge from 19-23 June.

• BarbersRide, a fiveday UK road-trip with barbering education, starts on Saturday 10 August to raise money for the Make a Wish Foundation.

Don’t Miss Helping Hairdressers Week Don’t forget it’s Helping Hairdressers Week from 3-8 June. Whether you’ll be hosting a cake sale or dressing in purple, start your fundraising now.

Follow HJ’s Instagram page to see what everyone is doing to give back to our industry and we’ll be re-posting your purple hair images if you tag @hairdressersjournal.

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NEWS

50% More than half of women share secrets with their hairdresser that they wouldn’t reveal to anyone else. This includes cheating on a partner, a poll by Regis salons of 2,000 people found. The salon chain has also launched a new colour menu for guests – the first in a set of business-changing initiatives due to be rolled out this year. The Regis Choose Colour menu is now available in all salons and is being supported by a campaign around choosing expertise.

Capital’s new brands

The entertainment and fashion industry’s finest hit the red carpet for the Met Gala last month at the Metropolitan Museum of the Arts, New York. The theme this year was ‘Camp’ and we asked stylists to share their favourite hair looks with us…

Carly Price, partner at Muse of London: “Zendaya’s princess-inspired look (Pictured) truly had us in awe. To fit with her big blue Cinderella-like dress, she sported an elegant French roll hairstyle, which was dyed blonde to fit with her character and finished with a blue silk headband to complete the look.”

Jim Shaw, owner of Essensuals and Essensuals Men: “Darren Criss’s look is the epitome of cool. He wore his hair short at the sides and embraced his curls, wearing them over his forehead. Natural hairstyles and embracing your curls in 2019 is on-trend and I love enhancing these looks by adding texture to the hair with texturising sprays and salt sprays.”

Simon Hill, owner of Sesh Hairdressing: “Kim Kardashian combined her iconic wet look with more glamorous retro waves to create a unique fusion of the two looks together.”

Urban Retreat Relaunches in London

A

fter 15 years in Harrods, Urban Retreat is back in its own space called The White House, London. Located on Hans Crescent, the five-storey building will feature a range of beauty and hair services spanning health, nutrition and wellbeing. The ground floor will feature a large retail space, consultation area and in-house restaurant and the first floor will have hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai’s salon and a nail space in partnership with CND. Managing director Reena Hammer said: “In a landscape where traditional retail layouts and store design are being challenged by the expectations of the evolving consumer, our brand new concept will focus on an experience-led approach.” Urban Retreat will relaunch this summer.

Capital Hair and Beauty has added three new brands to its offering this month – Pulp Riot, NXT Professional Hair Colour and Oro Therapy – a new ammonia-free permanent colouring system with keratin. If you become an HJ Gold member you will get a 25% in-store discount on your first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each future store visit.

Go to HJ’s Memberships page (42) to find out more.

Mental Health Awareness at BarberTalk Live Event The first BarberTalk Live was held at Lucky 7 Club in Paignton, Devon last month. The sell-out event trained over 40 barbers in suicide prevention. It was organised

by Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman to start a conversation around mental health with clients.

Leading barbers such as Wez Jones and Dan Davies of Pall Mall Barbers demonstrated their skills and spoke about their experiences to fellow barbers.

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HJ REPORTS

More than 2,000 stylists from over 40 countries travelled to the City of Light to celebrate L’Oréal Professionnel’s 110th anniversary

NATHALIE ROOS, PRESIDENT OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION AND JOHN NOLLET

Sophisticated and chic, and broadcast live around the world, guests also had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the innovative products the brand is known for.

In an interview with HJ, Nathalie Roos explained her vision for the brand. She said: “We work with 1.5 million stylists and millions of global consumers and have to make a difference, adjusting to the changing digital world. We live in a 360-degree world, with influencers everywhere and our Push the Pro programme is a game changer for the industry. The UK market is inspirational with so

HOLLYSIZ

T

he city’s most famous landmarks were the backdrop for a threeday celebration that attracted stars of the film and fashion worlds, including Alexa Chung and Catherine Deneuve to the opening night at the Carrousel du Louvre.

Hosted by L’Oréal Professional Products Division president Nathalie Roos and international general manager Marion Brunet, the opening night brought the arts together, with live music from acclaimed artists and a spectacular hair show, La French, Art of Hair Colouring, which featured 42 models.

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many beautiful salons and stylists, all of whom have the right experience and skills to ensure they feel valued and validated. We want to give them the chance to learn from each other as we help nurture those with the artistic qualities and entrepreneurial talents to succeed.”

Two days of workshops and masterclasses in the Palais de Tokyo allowed guests to explore the latest innovations in both colour and the digital space, including a preview of the Style My Hair Pro in-salon app.

The International Colour Trophy heralded the end of the celebrations with beautiful shows from global brand ambassadors, including the UK’s Adam Reed of Percy & Reed, before the winners were announced with Mai Ha and Emma Beveridge of Trevor Sorbie Manchester winning the Cut & Style Award. The International Color Trophy Style & Color award was presented to Wendy Gunn of Ink for Hair, Brisbane, Australia with the celebrations continuing into the night.

CATHERINE DENEUVE WITH JEAN-PAUL AGON,CHAIRMAN AND CEO OF L’ORÉAL

A PARISIAN CELEBRATION

GAVIN HOARE OF RICHARD WARD HAIR & METROSPA

NICOLAS HIERONIMUS, L’ORÉAL DÉPUTY CEO IN CHARGE OF DIVISIONS AND ALEXA CHUNG, INTERNATIONAL SPOKESPERSON OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

ADAM REED OF PERCY & REED

HJ REPORTS

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HJ REPORTS

THE ITALIAN HUB

Over 170 salon owners discovered how to win at business during Goldwell’s Hub Network in Sicily

The focus of this year’s Goldwell Hub Network was how to win at business. Kao Salon Division’s new general manager, Julie Winchester, opened the jam-packed conference by saying she’s extremely excited to be working with a brand that is focused on helping its customers. She said: “I want you to use this event to reflect on the challenges you face every day and to learn from one another. Customers today are not just looking for value, they are looking for an experience and the professional salon industry is the one industry on the high street that can deliver it.”

Win with your services menu Goldwell’s head of education Irene Meikle told attendees there are three key haircare areas that are expected to grow in the next few years. She believes it’s wise to include scalp care, anti-ageing and clarifying options on your services menu. She said 86% of salons found scalp products boosted their retail

sales so this could be the secret to winning in business this year.

Trichologist and salon owner Trisha Buller already uses scalp treatments to set her salon apart from local competitors. She said: “You need to change the terminology you use to avoid undervaluing your brand.

If a client has a facial they have an exfoliator, a serum and finally a moisturiser so you need to explain this idea to your clients if they really want to protect the health of their hair and scalp.”

8 ways to win at social media Social Chain’s CEO Steven Bartlett shared his eight tips for growing a business on social media.

Create a podcast 1 “Podcasts are the best way to get die-hard fans. I’ve started creating podcasts and it’s what most of my customers will email me about.”

2

Create a personal Linkedin account “Linkedin gives free reach from personal accounts and when you 18 / hji.co.uk

comment the article goes onto every news feed. Remember, emotional stories work best on Linkedin.”

Use IGTV on Instagram 3 “IGTV is a new feature on Instagram, which means it is being pushed out to all of its members.

Use your time wisely 4 on Instagram “Include captions with every grid post – make them really long, personal and honest. If someone looks at your post for longer, Instagram assumes it is good content. Plus, always end an Instagram post with a question as receiving comments will increase your reach.”

Instagram Checkout 5 “Instagram recently introduced checkout so in two clicks consumers can buy products without leaving the app and this could lead to clients being able to book salon appointments on Instagram too.”

Download Whatsapp Business 6 “Whatsapp recently launched Whatsapp Business which will be good for the salon industry as you will be able to use it to interact with

HJ REPORTS clients using automated tools to sort and quickly respond to messages.”

Facebook groups 7 “The future of Facebook is based on groups so go and create a hair and beauty group for your local area now if it doesn’t already have one.”

Try a messaging bot 8 “You can use it to collect bookings through your salon’s Facebook page.”

Create a winning team Psychologist and business coach Simon Clarkson believes the secret to changing the way your team behave is changing the way they think first.

He recommends asking your team to visualise a new behaviour before asking them to carry it out. This will help to create a faster neural pathway in their brain. He said you will need to develop a working environment where you and your team feel comfortable talking openly about each other’s failures or issues so you can learn from them in the future.

Chair rental challenges The National Hairdressers Federation and National Beauty Federation’s chief executive Hilary Hall gave advice to salon owners who might be considering switching from an employed salon model to a chair rental variant. First you need to give your staff an official contract that defines what’s included and what isn’t as well as clarifying how you can end the contract with them. You also need to decide what to charge the person renting the chair from you – will it be a fixed fee, a percentage of takings or both? She says you shouldn’t try and get out of VAT on any chair rental income and you should not make the switch to chair renting without taking legal advice first.

Learning from the art world Art historian Claudia Merkle advised attendees to visit art museums and galleries. She said this will help you to grow your business by thinking outside of the box. She explained that for many clients the head massage is the most relaxing and enjoyable part of any salon appointment.

Why not use scent to create an extra indulgent experience or educate staff on acupuncture so they can tell clients what they are doing and how it will benefit them? She added: “Place art on the ceiling to help clients relax.”

Walking the Amazon Ed Stafford’s inspirational talk explored what he learned from walking the entire length of the Amazon river. He did all of the physical training required but the biggest challenges he faced were psychological. His walking companion, Cho, who did the last leg of the journey with him, taught him a valuable lesson. Cho, who had lost all of his family when his village was destroyed at age 11, told Ed: “When there is, there is and when there isn’t, there isn’t”. This message stuck with him and he uses it to focus on the positives rather than the negatives.

How to increase prices Business coach David Drew introduced his talk by asking attendees if they put their prices up in April: “If you haven’t put your prices up since April you are already losing money because minimum wage and pension contributions all went up.” He believes salons need to charge more for all services. He said you can justify higher price points if you create an aspirational brand that clients will want to visit and if you provide an experience they won’t forget. David explained that if you give your salon team the challenge of selling at least one retail product and one salon treatment every day you will boost the salon’s bottom line over the course of the year.

The Goldwell Hub Network’s official industry panel Goldwell asked four members of the hairdressing industry to share what they’ve learned from running a successful salon business...

Martin Crean at Mode: “My team love entering hair competitions so I’ve created in-house versions to see who’s hungry to win and really wants it. The person who wins gets the opportunity to enter the big awards competitions.”

Beverly C at Cobella: “Think about your salon brand as a type of car – what type of car would you like your salon to be? If you want to

be cool while still being accessible, you might want to be a Mini Cooper, for example. Once you know what type of car you are, you can relate everything about your brand to that identity.”

Shane Bennett at Shane Bennett Hair: “Three years ago I rebranded and relocated my salon. We’d been in the same place for 15 years and I felt the energy had gone. We changed our brand imagery and made our own photos urban and fresh. It’s worked really well and given our staff and clients a new lease of life.”

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Sam Burnett at Hare & Bone: “I treat the Hare & Bone salon as a brand so it’s essential my salon team, our website and our Instagram all tell the same story.

I always ask clients where they heard about us and whether the salon lived up to expectations.”

BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles.

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STEPHEN LOVEKIN/BEI/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

Met Madness first Monday in May always serves TMetheusGala up stunning looks as stars hit the red carpet in New York. HJ was given the inside scoop on Lady Gaga’s hair look by her stylist Frederic Aspiras.

Business Savvy Before ghd launched the hotly anticipated ghd oracle we sat down with the brand’s CEO Jeroen Temmerman to speak about his career and plans for ghd moving forward.

Check it out on hji.co.uk/ hj-videos.

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@hji

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

Shear and Share with HJ Men

@hjinteractive

Social Shout Out

ur brother title HJ Men has O created a Facebook group for barbers and men’s hairdressers to

SHUTTERSTOCK

chat about the latest happenings in the industry. To join head to bit.ly/ hjmenshearandshare.

@tommconnell Tom is such a creative force it’s hard not to go on his Instagram feed and feel inspired!

Akesha, digital editor

Mental Health Awareness Week ast month’s Mental Health Lstigma Awareness Week aimed to take the out of mental health issues by shining a light on topics that affect us all. We revealed how to be a healthy hairdresser and treat stress and fatigue. Ken Hermes who lost his father to suicide at 15, also shared his story about the effects of mental health illnesses.

@martincreanatmode Glossy, shiny and wearable locks are a recurring theme on Martin’s Instagram feed, which features clients from his Mode salon in the Cotswolds.

Laura, HJ editor

S T S I L A N I F 9 1 A #BH You don’t need to wait much longer to find out if you’re on the shortlist for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. To be one of the first to know, switch on the notifications for our Instagram feed.

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@barber.josh.o.p Josh O’Meara-Patel not only delivers winning cuts, fades and colours but he always has a wise and poignant word to say about the world for an added barber bonus.

Charlotte, HJ Men editor

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL are excited to welcome

BAD APPLE HAIR to the family.

Julian Crane, General Manager, UK & Ireland Henkel Beauty Care Professional says: excited to be working with “ We’re Gavin Mills and the Bad Apple Hair group to support and grow their business. A warm welcome to their team and customers.

”

www.schwarzkopfpro.com

Creating boundaries in the workplace

Crossing the Line Professional boundaries keep your business running smoothly. Liz McKeon shares her tips for implementing a set of key guidelines

I

t is important to outline what you consider to be acceptable workplace behaviour. You should also establish a set of rules as this will help team members understand their roles and responsibilities.

Use well-defined markers to clarify an individual team member’s role and to help them stay focused on an individual task. Your team members also need to know who they can go to for assistance in any given situation.

If you set boundaries related to breaks, the use of mobile phones and the social environment within the workplace, your staff will understand what you define as acceptable behaviour. If you introduce a policy that outlines the possible consequences of violating these rules, it will also keep your staff focused on their role within the salon.

-ЄMK\Q^M KWUU]VQKI\QWV Staff members should be encouraged to speak in a respectful manner that is not condescending or abusive.

Effective communication will ensure staff use the appropriate tone and language with one another, which will improve workplace interactions.

1VIXXZWXZQI\M JMPI^QW]Z If you set codes of conduct for your workplace you will prevent inappropriate behaviour. Define the behaviour you consider to be appropriate on the salon floor and any behaviour that is unacceptable.

Boundaries will also help you to develop procedures for disciplinary action for staff who violate your rules.

Professional relationships should be personable but they must be guided by decorum. Abandoning parameters can create conflict, loss of respect and at times even embarrassment. In the small business context, this task might be tougher to achieve as salon teams are tightly woven groups. Some salon owners believe you can’t have firm boundaries without sacrificing close working relationships. However, the opposite is the case – boundaries reduce grey areas concerning job duties, increase efficiency and make the salon floor more productive.

As a business owner, you not only have to monitor your own behaviour but you must also ensure that employees understand and respect the professional boundaries within the team and with their clients.

26 / hji.co.uk

• Set limits regarding when and how your employees can approach you. For instance, if you need time to yourself, let employees know you won’t be available until after a certain point in the day.

• Refuse to honour employee requests that create hardship for you or cause you to alter your daily schedule.

• Assign tasks to employees that you feel comfortable delegating.

• Deliver disciplinary action to employees that act carelessly or negligently. Part of running a business includes ensuring that employees don’t overstep their professional boundaries.

• Ensure that all employees know their role and responsibilities within the business and hold them accountable.

• For success, demonstrate consistency and fairness.

Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.

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BUSINESS

Who is your ideal client?

A

common mistake salon owners and stylists make is misunderstanding their ideal client. More specifically, the error is not spending enough time getting to know them.

Many shops are closing on the high street but salons seem to be popping up everywhere. Plus consumers are more aware of the professional techniques and products that are readily available in every channel.

How can you cut through the noise to grow your business? Ask yourself

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1

Create a questionnaire that can be completed at reception before a client leaves the salon. Find out how your story/experience resonates with your ideal client – why are they attracted to you, what part of your story excites them and makes them feel like you ‘get’ them and can help them?

2

Start to write a blog to show your clients that you are a hair expert.

3

Be consistent – once you know what your ideal client needs, always deliver.

Build your brand and be consistent with it and they will return to you.

honestly would you be able to explain who your ideal client really is? You may feel you know who comes to your salon but is this the person who will future proof your business? If you know what your ideal client wants you can provide a service that will be tailored to their specific needs.

Be your client’s solution Take a look around your salon. Are the products you stock simply items that get dusted or are you stocking products that your ideal client wants to buy from you? Do you have services on your price list that no-one books?

If you can offer the solution to someone’s problem, you will make money in business. The more you know about your ideal client the easier it will be to provide them with the services they need, instead of the services you and your team like to have on your menu.

The power of email The most powerful form of communication is your email list. In a recent questionnaire, three fifths (60%) of salons said they had never sent an email to their salon database.

You have the most powerful computer systems with thousands of email addresses, yet most of those surveyed chose not to communicate with their clientele.

For a consumer to give up their email address to a brand means they are interested in what they have to say. This is your golden opportunity to talk to your ideal client and ask them 30 / hji.co.uk

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Understanding your loyal customers is critical as otherwise they will leave you for your nearest competitor, warns brand artist Jo Robertson what they want from you and to tell them about your new services and special offers.

Use your client’s tone of voice Clients will no longer just walk through your door. Your ideal client is looking for services to solve their hair problem and you need to tell them you have the solution.

If you are trying to build your salon, do some market research and start creating Instagram polls. If you feel you have designed the salon of your dreams but clients don’t book – ask them why?

Once you have identified your ideal client, you will be able to market to them in their tone of voice. You can also give them the services they need. You could offer more late-night openings if your ideal client works full time, for example or start opening the salon on Sundays.

Tap into your client’s emotions and give them what they want because people buy services and products to make themselves feel good. A client can’t be told they should come in for a colour, you need to sell them the story of what you can offer, and it needs to tap into their emotional needs.

2W :WJMZ\[WV coaches hair professionals and uses her brand experience to achieve results quickly. Visit jorobertson.me for more information.

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BUSINESS

The Debate

Should you have a receptionist?

Yes

No

“We look for opportunities to meet and exceed client expectations”

“Our stylists take our clients through our retail range before they leave”

“We are the first and last chance to make a great impression. We make clients feel relaxed in the knowledge they have made the right choice and are in safe hands. We set the tone and expectations upon arrival and departure, as well as ensuring everything in-between runs smoothly for our clients.

The reception orchestrates everything that goes on throughout the day and we take on many roles so we are experts at multi-tasking. Our multi-faceted role is constantly evolving. Gone are the days where a receptionist schedules appointments and looks after clients. In order to ensure all of our guests have an exceptional experience we must be present on the salon floor. We constantly look for opportunities to meet and exceed all of their needs and expectations. We are sure we are getting this right as clients are constantly commenting on their positive experiences with us.

More clients are booking online rather than calling the salon. We make a concerted effort to encourage clients to rebook and inform them of our online booking option to ensure our client numbers grow. This frees up time to look after our guests and focus on building strong relationships when they are in the salon.

The list of tasks we undertake to help clients, staff, our salon directors and the company is limitless. Without a dedicated front of house team this role would be left to the stylists. In a busy salon like ours, it is unrealistic to expect them to have the time to deliver the same quality of customer service as well as looking after their column of clients.”

“As a new independent salon, we simply didn’t have the budget for a receptionist when we were starting out. We weighed up the advantages and decided the money was better spent on stylists who could build a clientele and help establish the salon. A year later, we realised it was the best decision we could have made. Clients love being greeted and checked out by their stylist, rather than being passed from one person to another. From the moment they enter the salon until they leave, they have their stylist’s full attention, which many have commented feels like a more personal approach.

Clients entering the salon for the first time have also remarked that it feels less intimidating.

Clients can come into our space, get a feel for the atmosphere and observe the team at work, rather than entering straight into a conversation with someone on the front desk.

This also has an advantage when it comes to retail as there is a natural progression from the advice offered during an appointment to the stylist being able to talk the client through the retail options before they leave. The stylist can refer back to any points touched upon during the cut or colour service and provide expert tips and recommendations.

Many of our appointments are now requested via our website or social media so we don’t have a huge volume of phone calls to worry about. Yes, it is unusual not to have a front desk that’s manned all-day, every day.

We feel, however, that it’s also progressive and forward-thinking and shows our commitment to using our resources as wisely and economically as possible.”

Mila Timberlake and Natalia Irvine, Front of House at Rainbow Room International, Uddingston

Ryan Harris, salon owner at Harris & Fox, Glasgow

35 / hji.co.uk

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Two salons discuss the pros and cons of having dedicated front of house staff

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BUSINESS PANEL

Should you have a competitive pricing policy for your area?

Follow these tips to make sure you have the right price structure for your target market

Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year “We maintain a pricing policy that is tailored specifically to our business.

We focus on our running costs and expenses and work out our prices accordingly. We’ve built a successful business over many years that drives loyalty and lasting client relationships by combining hairdressing excellence with realistic and transparent pricing.

This strategy has always ensured that we remain competitive locally.”

Christian’s steps to success: ∞ Offer promotions that work with

the needs of your business such as graduate styling discounts to help graduate stylists gain experience. ∞ Understand your clientele and ensure you cater for each audience ranging from students to VIPs and review this regularly. ∞ Deliver excellence and price according to your own running costs rather than trying to undercut or price match your competitors.

Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1

Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2

“Our salons have a higher than average price per service than our neighbours because we want to ensure we remain accessible and inclusive. We introduced a new price point for an entry level stylist instead of reducing our prices as this would under sell our more experienced stylists. This allows guests to have the same salon experience at a more competitive price. It also reduces the pressure for our less experienced stylists.”

“For me, pricing starts with brand values and these should be reflected in your location. Smith England is a lifestyle brand that believes in offering local, quality luxury at affordable prices. You need to work out your overheads and then look at the costs for each service. This should offer the correct pricing for your location and allow your business to grow. Stay true to your brand, offer a quality service and don’t discount your services.”

Natalie’s steps for success: ∞ Research the competition but make

Phil’s steps to success: ∞ Build in a 10% contingency for

choices relevant to your business as what works for one business doesn’t necessarily work for another. ∞ Consumers love to feel appreciated.

Focus on added value based on a promotional activity calendar for areas that require the most growth. ∞ If you provide extras reflect them in the price, otherwise your bottom line will take a hit and if you invest in education tell guests about your well-trained team.

38 / hji.co.uk

unforeseen circumstances before calculating your service costs. ∞ Build a strategy around price increases. Is it because your overheads have increased and you need to recoup resources or has a team member been promoted? ∞ Don’t look at local competition – calculate your true pricing policy and communicate this with your team and clients as opposed to looking at other local brands.

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design “Pricing should reflect your target market and the experience you offer.

Running a business is about making profits. Calculate your running costs, the profit required and your average invoice value to determine how many clients you need to make a profit. Competitors will have copied others and in most cases, this leads to everyone basing their prices on the competition.”

Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ Calculate how many clients you

Name: Steve Rowbottom Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award “Do as much research as possible before deciding on a competitive pricing structure.

This will give you a good understanding of what other salons are charging in your area and help you reach your business goals. Have the confidence to offer more for the same price and over deliver with an unforgettable client experience. This will give you the option to increase your prices rather than reducing them. If you hit the right price your clients will be happy, your profits will increase and your bottom line will be healthy.”

need per stylist per week to make a sustainable profit. ∞ Remember prices can be increased later if necessary. ∞ Consider your offering – is it unique in any way to warrant a high or low pricing strategy and do you offer more or less than local competitors?

Base it on your target demographic.

Steve’s steps to success: ∞ Keep prices realistic for your salon. ∞ Keep the client in mind as price

Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year

Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year

“We keep our pricing competitive by having a wide range of prices at all times. I believe it’s important to keep growing your team from apprenticeship level. This means you always have an introductory price and there are small price differences between stylists. Senior stylist prices increase due to request percentages and demand but it’s the lower end that you need to keep competitive.”

Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ Keep refreshing your entry level

stylist prices so everyone else can start moving up your salon’s official pricing list. ∞ Avoid having massive leaps in price between lower end stylists and higher end stylists so offer £3 to £5 price differences. ∞ Create tiered pricing for colour as well as cuts and finishes.

is not a concern for someone who wants a premium service. ∞ Build your brand because people will pay for a brand they recognise.

Shout about your products, your employees and satisfied clients.

“Take your unique selling points into account from convenient parking and your opening hours to your amazing team and professional product range. Knowing what your strengths are over your competition is a key marketing tool to highlight why clients should come to you. Consider a loyalty scheme that drives repeat custom to avoid targeting bargain hunters. Feature your price list on your website so you can update it at any time and list your special offers.”

Salv’s steps to success: ∞ Visit other salons in the area and

take note of what they do well. ∞ Ensure your team consists of stylists across all levels to suit everyone’s budget. ∞ Always include the cost of products used and therapists’ time in your calculations as this will ensure you maintain profit margins.

39 / hji.co.uk

Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “In today’s economic climate everyone is price sensitive.

When the recession hit, salons entered into an offer and discount-style culture to attract and keep clients. I believe it is important to gauge your price on surrounding businesses and if you are using quality products and have well trained staff you will be a success without having to put offers on your hairdressing services.”

Janet’s steps to success: ∞ Be aware of what the competition is offering in your local area.

∞ Add value to your services. ∞ Encourage junior staff members

on to the floor with a special price list for blow-dries, waves and limited-edition services. This means all of your staff will bring in revenue and you can offer a tiered pricing structure for your clients.

Name: Ian Hendry Salon: Maxwells Professional Hairdressing Award: Salon Team of the Year “Consider tiering the prices you charge as clients will often be happy to pay for a more experienced and highly trained stylist, however everyone has different budgets. The quality of the service should never change. Experience, training and technical ability has to be charged so you can continue to invest in your stylists and pay them correctly. We have a seven-tiered pricing structure.”

Ian’s steps to success: ∞ Offer a tiered pricing structure that will appeal to all budgets.

∞ Make it clear how your pricing

works – all staff, especially reception staff, should be able to explain the cost of services clearly. ∞ Be open and transparent, especially with new clients. Give very specific quotes on services as clients do not like hidden charges.

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Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65607 June 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media.

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INTERVIEW

AWAKEN YOUR WORTH Gianni Scumaci is on a mission to encourage hairdressers to recognise their own value. HJ sat down with the renowned stylist to find out more

F

rom cutting hair aged 10 in his family’s barbershop in Lincoln to working on global fashion campaigns and travelling the world with esteemed fashion photographers, it’s fair to say Gianni Scumaci has achieved phenomenal success so far. His career trajectory, which has often taken him outside the traditional hairdressing sphere, has given him a new perspective about the industry he loves. Here, he explains why he feels compelled to awaken the self-worth of hairdressers.

Why is the hidden intelligence of a hairdresser so important to you?

I’ve done a series of talks around this

topic because I believe recognising the intelligence of hairdressers is key to moving the industry forward.

I use the word ‘hidden’ because I think it’s often concealed – not just from society but from hairdressers themselves. I believe it takes a highly intelligent individual to run a salon and give people back their self-esteem on a daily basis. To create hair for the runway or to read between the lines of an advertising brief, as well as putting your own stamp on it, takes a high level of emotional, aesthetic and creative intelligence. It’s time to change how we view ourselves as hairdressers because it affects how society sees us.

46 / hji.co.uk

Why did you think of yourself as an outsider in the industry?

In the past I would go to hairdressing events and feel like an outsider and I didn’t understand why. I’m a third-generation hairdresser and I love the people in our industry. I realised it wasn’t that our intelligence wasn’t being recognised by society – it was that our intelligence wasn’t being recognised by hairdressers themselves. I started to gravitate towards the fashion world and working on editorial campaigns for magazines. I felt like the people in the fashion world respected their craft in a different way to hairdressers.

INTERVIEW Why do you think some hairdressers have low self-esteem?

In my experience a lot of hairdressers saw themselves as not being good enough at school. The education system has a hierarchy of subjects with maths and science at the top, followed by languages and humanities, while the arts sit at the bottom. A lot of hairdressers learn in a visual way, but schools teach in a linear way. If you are a visual person you aren’t going to retain information and do well in an exam. When I came out of school if you didn’t succeed academically you became a hairdresser, beauty therapist or a bricklayer. These jobs had a stigma attached to them and I don’t think that’s changed as much as it should have.

How can we change this perception?

It needs to start with hairdressers themselves. I want hairdressers and barbers to take a step back and reframe who they are. When I have direct contact with hairdressers at lectures, seminars or my educational sessions it changes their perception of themselves. I believe salon owners have a big responsibility – those close to retiring need to engage with those who are starting out. How can we expect a person coming into the industry to have high self-esteem if the people at the top don’t? I want to work with different platforms and partners to spread that message. Hairdressing is a £7 billion industry in the UK but we don’t value ourselves as such.

How can we help those starting out in the hairdressing industry?

We need to understand where the problem begins. Children aged 13 choose their options at school and they are told by teachers and parents that hairdressing isn’t a serious career choice. It’s my job to change this perception. I visited a school

recently to talk about hairdressing careers and they were all focused on the immediate benefits such as how much money they would earn and how glamorous it looked on social media. I asked the students what they would like to give back in five years’ time. I explained the social function of hairdressers – how we improve our client’s self-esteem and make them feel like the best versions of themselves – they didn’t realise that’s what hairdressers do. We need to make sure those starting out understand that our industry changes people’s lives.

Have you always had a high sense of self-worth?

I wasn’t academically successful at school, but I could cut hair by the time I was 10 and I had an interest in music and photography.

I found that having these abilities helped me to understand my own value. Academic achievement is often the only intelligence that’s recognised in society. I think this is why hairdressers are so keen on competitions and winning awards.

They strive for the recognition they didn’t get at school.

What do you hope to achieve with this movement?

I was told a story about a dinner party where a doctor, lawyer, architect and a hairdresser were seated together – when the hairdresser revealed their job no one knew what to say. I genuinely believe the social function of a hairdresser is on par with what society would label a professional job or career. My goal is for the next generation of hairdressers to be able to present themselves at a dinner party without there being any silence. I’m not professing to make hairdressing more than it is, but it is important to reframe the position we have in society.

CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

1990s Aged 14, Gianni was touring the UK performing on stage at hair seminars and in 1999 he became the youngest ever creative director at Sassoon.

Early 2000s He created the Fanni haircut that dictated the look for fashion brands such as Gucci, Jil Sander and Gap. In 2003 he was published in i-D magazine.

2005 Gianni created his first British Vogue cover with Tim Walker and he worked on campaigns with Juicy Couture.

2009 GS EDUCATION IN SHORT What is unique about GS Education?

The industry tends to invest in technical education but expects hairdressers to learn communication skills through experience. I want to teach people how to elevate their technical and communication skills.

He was introduced to iconic photographer David Bailey who he continues to work with.

A year later he became Joico international vision director and published his first book in 2011.

Why have you launched online videos?

The videos supplement my in-person courses and I strive to teach in all the different learning languages – listening, watching, talking and repeating.

READER VIDEO OFFER! GS Education is offering HJ readers an access code to view the new Connection step-by-step videos for free for one month.

Go to gianniscumaci.com/education, click the subscribe here button and use the promo code GSHJ*. *

1 month offer from 28 May to 27 June 2019

47 / hji.co.uk

2014 Gianni is regularly booked internationally for public speaking events on topics such as the hidden intelligence of a hairdresser.

STYLING

SUMMER LOVIN’ CHRISTOPHER KANE

HJ takes the hottest styles from this season’s catwalks and shows you how to translate them into wearable looks for your clients in the salon

PREEN

the head on different sections and create different types of braids. For a multi-dimensional look, choose braids that sit flat to the head, loose braids and plenty of detail. It is about trial and error and finding braids that complement each other. Leave the hairline free with wispy pieces for a soft and raw finish.”

Cos Sakkas, international artistic director, Toni & Guy

Long braids at Preen “This braid is a tight, three-strand braid. Create multi-dimensional scalp braids so they sit at different heights and have different details. Section the hair and start with a small braid following the curvature of the head. Work around

“Create this pretty braid look, which is perfect for festivals by curling the hair with a large curling tool and divide the hair down the parting from forehead to neck. Dutch braid the hair keeping tension until you get to the nape of the neck then secure with an elastic. Pull out the braid to make it big and use a tiny bit of spray to add texture and keep the plaits fat and chunky. Take a few strands of hair from the bottom of the plait and wrap around the elastic to hide this and hold in place with a bobby pin. Add in a few hair rings to the plait or weave in some flowers to create a more festival feel.”

Lucy Noon, creative stylist, Hensmans

The Wet Look at Christopher Kane “Create a short and choppy white-out style that is full of texture and attitude.

Hair can be swept back to create a wet-look finish with Indola’s Dry Wax or pulled forward with a gritty finish. Undercuts get soft edges and heavy overhangs for a nod to modern grunge – it’s a no-fuss look with maximum impact” Andy Smith, global ambassador for Indola

TEMPERLEY

Dua Lipa-style bobs at Temperley “One-length bobs that hit the jawline and have an almost angular finish to give the hair more dimension are on-trend. This hairstyle looks fantastic when worn super straight like Dua’s and when the hair has mega shine – think of the glass hair trend! When achieving this look the condition of the hair is incredibly important to ensure the hair is as shiny as possible. This can easily be achieved by giving the client a deep conditioning treatment before styling their hair into the chic bob hairstyle. Finish by smoothing the hair over with hot irons.”

Karen Thomson, salon owner, KAM Hair and Body Spa 49 / hji.co.uk

“The key to creating a beautiful bob is to take your time and focus on cutting sharp lines. Style flat to the head with no volume for an edgy and strong finish. Cut hair one-length through the sides with diagonal back graduation from behind the ears into the nape, pushing the weight away from the face. Work through the top to build up the weight. Working with the natural fall, blunt-cut a short fringe on the skin with as little tension as possible. Finish by blow-drying with a flat brush for a sleek finish and slight kink through the ends.”

Philipp Haug, international artistic director, Toni & Guy

STYLING

Baby bangs at Prada

Natural movement at Alexa Chung “This look is suitable for a client who wants an effortless yet stylish look. Take large random sections and using tongs create loose curls. Always curl away from the face, allow to cool, comb through for a soft result. Finish with shine spray.”

Gina Conway, salon owner, Gina Conway Salons “Create soft, natural and touchable movement with a medium-sized tong.

Brush through and crimp the internal length. Tong the hair in the same placement three times to keep the hair defined. Pull hair out visually using the hands, dress and compress at the roots for suitability.”

Sally Brooks, owner, Brooks & Brooks

DOLCE & GABBANA

An undone updo at Dion Lee “To create a relaxed topknot, backcomb the hair before styling into a ponytail and then into the bun. Once you have created your ponytail twist the hair round the hair tie to create a bun before pinning into place and finishing with extra hold hairspray. Make sure the hair pins are tight and secure in the hair.

To make them more secure you can spray them with dry shampoo or hairspray before putting them in the hair. Play around with the topknot to give it a more relaxed feel.”

Tina Farey, editorial director, RUSH Hair “The rope-twisted knots are full of body, yet appear soft. You want to create an updo that is intricate, relaxed and wearable. Apply sea salt spray onto dry hair before blow-drying. Layer a dry shampoo for some gentle texture. Use your fingers to separate hair roughly down the centre and rope-twist the hair on both sides.”

James Earnshaw, creative manager, Bad Apple Hair Group DION LEE

ALEXA CHUNG

“Headbands and wraps are on-trend this season and are perfect when teamed with a topknot. These accessories will add some urban cool to any client look.

From monochromatic and gypsy prints to printed turbans, it is ideal for clients who want wash and go hair, curls or super straight locks.”

Suzie McGill, salon owner, Rainbow Room International Uddingston Salon

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“A micro-fringe is an excellent alternative for a client who wants to experiment with shaping round their face. It is cut high above the eyebrows and instantly adds a contemporary feel to an otherwise classic cut.

As stylists it is our responsibility to explain the benefits and downfalls of this style as it does require a certain level of maintenance to keep it looking fresh. Should the client decide to grow it out this can be challenging and prove frustrating as it develops through the different stages of growth.”

Ross Charles, salon owner, Ross Charles Hairdressing “A micro fringe makes a statement so your client will need to wear it with confidence. It can be unstructured but still have a touch of luxury and the bolder the look, the shorter the fringe. Take small sections and use a waver to create a defined wave, working around the head.

Marry each section with the previous section so waves are uniform. Pull it out with the fingers so it is more dishevelled and build the shape. Use the waver through the fringe, finger through and let the hair fall naturally.”

Sharon Malcolm, salon owner, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing PRADA

Statement accessories at Dolce & Gabbana

COLOUR

BLONDE IS THE NEW BLACK In this issue’s Colour Special we look at blonde trends around the world, how to combat client concerns about damage and we reveal our new colour news page HAIR: TIGI 51 / hji.co.uk

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

BLONDE AMBITION TIGI’s new lightener will take your blonde colour services to new heights in time for the summer season

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

@eileentatuhair @anitaaa_t

The Copyright Care package Empowering colourists to create brighter blondes without compromise, the Freestyle Blonder is the perfect colour partner to TIGI Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery and Booster Treatments.

In fact the SOS Treatment’s antibreakage technology returns hair to virgin condition in only five minutes to provide resilience before, during and after a chemical service. The Copyright Booster Treatments can be cocktailed to create bespoke conditioning, shine or repair services to accompany your blonde clients through their colour journey. When used as a system, TIGI Copyright True Light Freestyle Blonder, TIGI Copyright Repair and SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment, offer the ultimate anti-breakage blonding solution for any hair type or colour.

@lenahaarwerk

W

hether it’s requests for sunkissed babylights or bronde balayages clients can’t get enough of effortless-looking blonde hues.

Make the new TIGI Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder your go-to freehand lightener for creating lighter, brighter and healthier blondes. Launching in July, it has been specially designed for freehand techniques such as balayage, micro balayage or babylights.

The innovative True Light Freestyle Blonder lightener was developed by the TIGI Copyright Colour technical team. It is formulated with clay and mineral oil to give a seamless application and achieves up to 7 levels of lift in only 40 minutes. As hair integrity is TIGI’s top priority, the lightener features an antibreakage arginine complex to preserve hair’s condition during the lightening process.

Blonder Q&A TIGI global creative technical director Christel Lundqvist answers key questions about True Light Freestyle Blonder Why is the mixing ratio important?

When working with a freehand lightener, consistency is key. To ensure an even saturation of the product the lightener needs to be thick enough not to drip or transfer but creamy enough to penetrate the hair and not dry out. The True Light Freestyle Blonder gives the option of two mixing ratios to achieve the desired results on different hair textures and to suit a stylist’s preferences.

Are the application processes different for clay lighteners and powder lighteners?

The True Light Freestyle Blonder is specifically designed as a clay lightener.

It has an amazing consistency that Proud to be TIGI adheres to the hair allowing creative freedom. The lightener placement TIGI salons can share how and the amount of colour are Copyright has changed critical to a seamless freehand result. their clients’ hair with Apply a generous amount of beautiful imagery on their product from a vertical angle. Brush social media feeds. the product onto the hair allowing it to spread and repeat the action until Tag #mycopyrightstory the blend is complete. The clay and follow @tigicopyright lightener is stickier than a powder on Instagram lightener so you may need to work it into the hair with your hands.

Do I need to use meche strips?

The True Light Freestyle Blonder is a freehand lightener so you do not need to use meche strips. It is important to remember that using aids such as meche, which conducts heat, allows the product to lift further.

Will I get the same amount of lift with a clay lightener?

The True Light Freestyle Blonder is designed for a delicate and natural lift. You can still get up to 7 levels of lift but it will appear softer than True Light and True Light White.

The clay lightener is designed to be stable and avoid any transfer so it is drier in texture. Keep this in mind when applying the product.

To find out more go to tigi.com or follow @tigicopyright on Instagram.

Plus, discover the new education and inspiration platform at tigifuse.com.

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COLOUR BRIGHTON BOHO BLONDE

BEVERLY HILLS HIGHLIGHTS

ICELANDIC DIAMOND

UPTOWN NEW YORK BLONDE DOWNTOWN LA LIGHTS

AROUND THE WORLD IN EIGHT BLONDES

PARISIAN BALAYAGE

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

SCANDI BLONDE

Which countries and cities are we drawing inspiration from in 2019? Take a trip to discover the best blonde inspiration from around the globe and how to recreate the looks back home in the salon

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We love Scandinavian fashion, furniture and food so it was only a matter of time before Scandi hair colour became highly coveted as well. Venturing into slightly warmer territory than platinum blonde, Scandi blonde balances flattering blonde tones perfectly. “It’s important to get cool and clean tones but you need to get the balance right as adding too much silver could turn the look into a fashion blonde,” cautions Tim Scott-Wright, owner of The Hair Surgery in Stourbridge. “Schwarzkopf Professional’s tbh – true beautiful honest – is the perfect range to create this look as it works with the natural highs and lows in the hair, yet tones any warmth and brassiness to achieve cool and crisp blonde hues.”

COLOUR

BEVERLY HILLS HIGHLIGHTS

JOICO

SCANDI BLONDE

Sunny blonde hues that have just the right amount of blended root is what the glamorous Beverly Hills inhabitants want. “My favourite colour combination has to be golden caramel highlights paired with a darker brown root,” says JOICO Europe colour ambassador Dan Spiller. “I love a subtle contrast as opposed to anything too dramatic.”

It’s also a good way of tempting your cautious clients into trying something new. “Sweeping light beige blonde highlights through the ends of light brown hair will create a lowcommitment balayage,” adds Dan.

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

UPTOWN NEW YORK BLONDE New York is serving up blonde colour that contains a beautiful mix of warm and cool tones. This golden blonde, from Revlon Professional’s Rock The Blonde In You collection, combines honey, apricot and platinum shades that can be applied in a bespoke way to flatter a client’s individual features.

The women of New York wouldn’t settle for anything less than hair colour perfectly tailored to them.

Get the look

• Protect the hairline with

SYDNEY SURFER GIRL

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

PARISIAN BALAYAGE The French are famed for their low-key approach to hair so it’s no wonder they created the balayage.

“As well as being low maintenance and natural-looking, French balayage techniques can be tailored to your client’s hair,” explains Charlotte Mensah. “Unlike woven highlights, colourists can vary the techniques to create strong contrasts using a 1 or 2 point technique or natural lightening within the hair, which is great for hair with texture or curls as you can adapt the colour to suit the hair pattern.” It is especially important to condition Afro, curly or textured hair, before, during and after the colour process – Charlotte recommends using L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond to protect the bonds of the hair.

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Revlonissimo Barrier Cream. Apply colour 1 on the root area in an irregular pattern.

• Divide the hair into 16 irregular sections and continue with the application. Alternate colours 2, 3 and 4.

• After processing, wash hair with Magnet Color Lock Shampoo and treat with Magnet Restoring Mask.

Complete the service by applying Magnet Anti-Pollution Daily Shield.

• Recommend Revlon EKSperience Blonde Shampoo and NutriColor Crème 1003 for use at home to ensure your client enjoys a beautiful blonde shade for longer.

The formulas Colour 1: Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 9.32 + 30vol (9%) with Magnet Pollution Neutralizer.

Colour 2: Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 10.23 (45ml) + 900 (15ml) + 20vol (6%) with Magnet Pollution Neutralizer.

Colour 3: Revlonissimo Colorsmetique 10.23 (30 ml) + 8.04 (30ml) + C46 (2ml) + 20vol (6%) with Magnet Pollution Neutralizer.

Colour 4: Blonderful Blonde Up 8 Levels Powder + 20vol (6%) with Magnet Pollution Neutralizer.

COLOUR

The residents of Brighton are known for their carefree ethos and outdoorsy style and their hairstyles follow suit. This natural-looking colour is ideal for clients who want to shake up their look without making a dramatic statement. “This is the perfect flaxen hue for clients who want to balance cool tones with warm,” explains Andreas Kurkowitz, Wella Professionals global colour ambassador. “It’s also ideal if hair is looking slightly brassy, as this muted reflective shade of blonde gives a brushed satin finish.”

SYDNEY SURFER GIRL

ICELANDIC DIAMOND Best paired with a blunt cut, the Icelandic blonde is all about a high-shine glass finish and a radiant, almost uniform colour. Icelanders are known for their low-key style and beauty regimes (it’s a firm ‘no’ to contouring) and this look works with their stereotype. Follow the Balmain Paris Couleurs Couture step-by-steps below…

Get the look

• Depending on the size of the

re-growth area it might be best to work with a virgin application technique.

• Work with two different formulas and colour the mid lengths first before moving towards the root area.

• Apply colour 1 on mid lengths.

• After 20 minutes apply colour 2 on the root area.

• Tone lengths and ends with colour 3 using a babylight technique.

DOWNTOWN LA LIGHTS A grown-up version of sunkissed highlights, LA highlights is a covetable look that will appeal to most clients. TIGI created the ‘LA Lights’ look to showcase its new True Light Freestyle Blonder.

Get the look

• Create four sections by taking a profile and radial parting.

• Begin at the nape area with a horizontal parting. Take

a natural weave, backcomb the root area slightly and apply colour 1, an inch away from the scalp. Secure in the foil and create a classic packet.

• Progress onto the next parting, leaving an inch of hair between the partings.

• Work in the same way until the crown is reached.

Repeat the technique on the opposite side.

• Once the back sections are complete, apply colour 2.

Take horizontal partings between the foils. Using a freehand painting technique, create a V shape.

Continue until both back sections are complete.

• Progress onto the side section, using a classic highlighting technique. Repeat on the opposite side.

• Next, create freehand pieces between the packets using the same freehand painting technique as the back section.

• Process until the desired undertone has been achieved – don’t exceed 40 minutes.

• Tone the pre-lightened area using colour 3. Process visually for up to 20 minutes.

TIGI

BALMAIN

Aussies are the connoisseurs of the baby blonde, surfer-style look.

From honey blonde to more caramel shades, what unites Aussie blondes is a multi-tonal finish, which is often achieved with hand-painted techniques. Heffy Wheeler, OSMO brand ambassador and owner of HX Hair says: “Warmth is your friend when opting for a more natural beach babe blonde. Ditch the ash toners and the purple shampoo and let the warm hues shine. This look is a low maintenance summer blonde, work it into a balayage for natural-looking results or opt for your favourite high lift tint to use as an all-over colour.”

TIGI

OSMO

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

BRIGHTON BOHO BLONDE

The formulas

The formulas:

Colour 1: 3/4 10.12 + 1/4 1001 mixed with 40vol Colour 2: F1 colour formula mixed with 30vol Colour 3: Toner 0.1 mixed with 6.5vol

Colour 1: True Light White + Activator 20vol/6% (mix ratio: 1:1 - 1:2) Colour 2: True Light Freestyle Blonder + Activator 30vol/9% (mix ratio 1:1.5 – 1:2) Colour 3: 30g Gloss 10/28 + 45g Activator 8.5vol/2.55%

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COLOUR

DAMAGE CONTROL Reassure clients that it’s easier than ever to protect their locks with products that care for hair before, during and after colouring

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

I

n 2019, clients want instant colour transformations but not at the cost of their hair’s health.

This puts a colourist in a difficult situation – deliver the desired colour results in one appointment and you will become a beloved hairdresser, praised across social media and recommended to their friends.

However, if you negatively impact the health of their hair, it could damage your reputation for good.

Great colour results and healthy hair always start with a great consultation.

In fact, “no thorough consultation, no long-lasting colour” is the philosophy of Patrick Marrow, owner of HIVEMCR. “The stark reality is that clients don’t understand the process of creative colour, especially the bleaching that goes into achieving

the colour they want,” says Patrick, a Crazy Color ambassador. “We always explain the measures we take during their appointment and how they protect their hair.”

It’s also vital to find out more about your client’s hair history. “Using stronger than required activators in the wrong areas can negatively affect hair elasticity and strength,” explains Tracey Devine Smith, ASP global ambassador. Conduct an elasticity test and get a second opinion.

Communication is also key. Before, during and after the appointment, talk to your clients about what you are using on their hair and, most importantly, the reasons why. The appetite for knowledge is at an alltime high. Thanks to social media, everyone thinks they are an expert 59 / hji.co.uk

so you need to reinforce that you are in fact the expert and they should listen to you. Warren Boodaghians, TIGI global academy technical creative director agrees: “During the consultation talk about in-salon treatments, the products you’re using during the service and the aftercare plan. For example, TIGI Copyright is the perfect 360° salon service, it has a solution for all hair types. Thanks to its customisable and intermixable treatment line-up the service is truly bespoke.” It would seem tender loving care is what clients want.

Turn over to see the treatments that prep the hair for colour in the salon and the products clients can purchase to continue the good work at home.

The future of coloured hair is looking brighter and healthier already.

COLOUR

THE COLOUR PROCESS IN A NUTSHELL

Best for... Beating free radicals when colouring Did you know that when colouring and applying lightening services to hair the metals that are present in polluted hair interact negatively with hydrogen peroxide? This generates free radicals that break the keratin bonds making colour unpredictable, unreliable and toned down. During the colour treatment you can fight back with Revlon Professional Magnet Anti-Pollution Neutralizer, then cleanse with Revlon Professional Color Lock Repairing Shampoo and Anti-Pollution Daily Shield.

“Colour processing can break down the bonds of the hair that make it strong as well as leaving the cuticle open. Both of these actions can make hair weak and feel coarse,” explains Patrick Marrow.

“Colouring is a simultaneous sequence of lifting natural pigmentation whilst replacing it with a new one and bleaching is a process in which the eumelanin and pheomelanin is ‘eaten’ away, leaving (yellow-toned) keratin in place. I describe bleach like a Pac-Man inside the hair, it has an insatiable appetite.”

Best for... Nourishing hair while colouring

Best for... Brunettes and redheads

All 117 of the ColourCode shades from Advanced Pro Salon are enriched with argan oil and infused with the brand’s ProPlex technology. Powerful antioxidants are infused into each tube. Pro-vitamin B5 adds moisture and helps to fight brittleness and vitamins C and E reduce damage and colour interference caused by free radicals.

Refresh and maintain the vibrancy of brunette and redtoned tresses with the Wella Professionals INVIGO Color Recharge range. Available in Cool and Warm Blonde, Brunette and Red variants, the shampoos and conditioners deposit colour and are infused with nutrients to leave hair nourished and vibrant.

Best for... Repairing stressed-out tresses Best for... Protecting hair during lightening

The OSMO Deep Moisture range is specially formulated for hair that is stressed from heat and chemical processing. The products contain the nourishing hero ingredient pataua oil, which is extracted from the Brazilian palm tree and promotes smooth and radiant locks. The collection includes a shampoo, conditioner, mask and a two-phase leave-in treatment.

The new ASP Vitaplex is a revolutionary treatment that allows colourists to lighten and colour without compromising the integrity of the hair. The three-part system is designed to repair, strengthen and protect hair from breakage during the colouring and lightening process. Salon trial kits are available from £45+VAT.

Best for... Reviving vivid hues

Best for... Beautifying blonde locks

Crazy Color Vibrant shampoo and conditioner refreshes semipermanent bright colours. The four shampoos are designed to partner with red, pink, blue and purple shades and are free from colour-fading culprits such as salt and sulphates. The Rainbow Care Deep Conditioner is infused with nourishing oils and can be used with any hue.

Paul Mitchell Platinum Blonde Shampoo has been joined by the new Platinum Blonde Conditioner and Platinum Blonde Toning Spray to create the ultimate system to banish brassiness and reveal cooler, brighter blondes. The violet formula and pigment cools brassy tones whilst leaving hair shiny and conditioned.

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N EW

Introducing NEW

Wild Black The new ‘go to’ base shade for your hair colour palette.

Use alone for dramatic results Or blend with any one of our 14 Wild Bright shades to add depth to existing tones Add it to Color Tamer for numerous ‘on-trend’ grey options

www.osmo.uk.com

COLOUR

CARING FOR COLOURED HAIR MUK INCEPTION

Pass on these surprising tips from Tracey Devine Smith that will help reduce damage to your client’s coloured hair • Avoid tying hair up as this can weaken tresses.

• Use a silk pillow case to reduce friction on the hair when sleeping.

• Make sure you get regular cuts to freshen dead ends and promote healthy hair growth.

Best for... Pampering newly-coloured blonde hair

Best for... Indulging hair at-home

The in-salon Schwarzkopf BLONDME Detoxifying System detoxifies and instantly refreshes your client’s blonde hair. The three-step detoxifying regime contains a bonding shampoo, an in-salon only System Shot designed to be mixed into the range’s Keratin Restore Bonding Mask and a protecting spray which is designed to shield hair from environmental aggressors.

L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Absolut Repair is made with the brand’s exclusive lipidium complex – a clever formula that has been designed to target the hair fibre according to its specific level of damage. After using the mask, hair feels stronger, the fibre appears more refined and the surface is protected from any external aggressors.

Best for... Treating clients to a bespoke service

Best for... Removing colour safely

TIGI Copyright SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment and the customisable treatment boosters are designed to create a tailored service that allows hairdressers to deliver on client’s expectations without compromising hair condition.

The treatment can be used before or after a colour service or between visits to return hair to virgin strength in a short space of time. The boosters can be mixed and matched depending on your client’s hair type and individual needs for a truly personal service.

Kind to hair and time-effective Zalon Colour Remover is infused with argan oil to condition locks. The formula only targets artificial colour molecules within the hair’s cortex. Unlike some bleach bathing techniques, progress doesn’t need to be monitored every 10 minutes.

In fact, stylists can even take a 30-minute appointment with another client while the hair is processing.

Best for... Colour conditioning at-home Best for... Returning hair to its former glory

Goldwell’s new Kerasilk Color Revive Color Giving Conditioners refresh and intensify salon colour at home while perfectly conditioning the hair. The eight shades are tailored to match the most popular Goldwell Topchic and Colorance shades.

Recommended for use once a week for two to five minutes, clients can customise results from a simple colour refresh to a more intense colour hit if left on for longer. RRP £15.50.

The technology within Fudge Professional Treatment Time Machine ensures the product penetrates deep into the cuticle and smooths out any damaged areas caused by chemical processes. The system aims to reprogramme hair’s inner and outer structure for demipermanent results that last up to 10 weeks. It can be delivered in-salon and taken home for continued protection.

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NEWS OF THE HUES Discover the latest trends in the world of colour

#trending

BABY BLUE STEEL

CLINT SPAULDING/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

The 2019 camp-themed Met Gala brought us some bold hair looks but it was actress Lucy Boynton’s steel blue waves that took the prize for the most wearable colour trend. Set to be a festival favourite, Manic Panic ambassador and educator Vicki Hoskin explains how to re-create the baby blue look in the salon: “Mix equal parts Manic Panic Professional Gel Smokescreen and Classic High Voltage Blue Steel to get Lucy’s perfect pale blue hue.”

It’s ‘tweakment’ time

BUBBLE TECHNIQUE

Translated as a service that’s low on time but big on results, ‘tweakments’ should be on every stylist’s radar. A perfect example of a ‘tweakment’ is the new Blowdry with Benefits service which has launched in Redken salons across the UK. The service uses Redken Shades EQ demi-permanent colour to tone, colour, correct, gloss and cover greys in a single blow-dry appointment. The service is speedy to bring in extra revenue and to fit in with your clients’ busy lifestyles.

Pulp Riot artists Sam Daly (@bottleblonde76) and Kasey O’Hara (@hairbykaseyoh) developed the bubble technique, which is a time-saving method to create colour blends.

Perfect for pastel applications, panels are stacked one on top of the other (rather than being separated by foils). For a free 10-minute tutorial go to tv.pulpriothair.com.

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The power of three Blonders with benefits Colour brands are creating lightening solutions that lift hair higher and faster than ever before. Here’s three of the latest solutions that you can use to take hair to new heights:

L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio Level 9

TIGI Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder

Fudge Professional Clean Blond Speed+ Luxe Lightener

PHOTOGRAPHED IN LONDON, UK

GO LIGHTER AND BRIGHTER WI THOUT

W W W.T I G I C O P Y R I G H T.C O M @TIGICOPYRIGHT

COM PROM ISE

FASHION

Simple and fresh looks for the 21st century woman

VERSA STYLE

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FASHION

Hair: Michelle Thompson for KeraCare Conditioning Haircare by Avlon Make-up: Jessica Williams and Marshayna Suban Styling: Claire Frith Photography: Richard Miles

“We chose girls from different backgrounds and with different hair types who own their look and are relatable to every woman with curly, coily and kinky hair.�

Michelle Thompson

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FASHION

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

HANDLING COMPLAINTS The NHF/NBF’s director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey explains why being prepared is the key to dealing with complaints successfully

M

ake sure all your staff are familiar with your complaints policy and know how to respond if a client complains. You can then be sure complaints will be dealt with consistently, fairly and professionally explains the NHF/NBF’s director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey.

She says: “Handling complaints well is a vital skill and you should always aim to turn a negative into a positive.

Ensure you use the complaint to learn from your mistakes and avoid a similar situation in the future.”

How to respond Always stay calm, advises Caroline.

“If your client is complaining in the salon, take them to a private area away from other clients where you can have a quiet conversation.

“Say you’re sorry to hear they are not happy and ask them to explain their concerns. Apologising does not mean you are accepting liability,” says Caroline. “Listen carefully and repeat back what they’ve said to ensure you have understood correctly.”

If you think the complaint is reasonable, particularly if you are dealing with a longstanding and loyal

client, book them in for a free or reduced-price ‘VIP’ appointment to redo or correct the service.

Go to nhf.info/resolve-complaints to find out more about handling complaints.

for criticism. Treat it as an isolated event, involve them in sorting it out and concentrate on restoring good relations with your client.

NHF/NBF members can go to nhf.info/client-experience-guide to download an expert guide on delivering an outstanding client experience.

On the telephone “Telephone complaints are trickier to deal For less than 75p a day, with because Alternative the NHF/NBF offers a wide you cannot see dispute resolution range of legal, employment what’s gone If you and your and financial help, plus wrong,” explains client cannot brilliant ideas for managing Caroline. “Assure agree on a people and boosting your your client that solution to a business. NHF/NBF members you want to put complaint, the can call the membership things right law says you team for free information and ask them to must tell them and advice about return to the salon how to find a how to deal with so you can sort out certified alternative client complaints. the problem as soon dispute resolution as possible.”

(ADR) service.

NHF/NBF members “NHF/NBF members can download a free in-depth can turn to our hair and guide to handling complaints by beauty mediation service which going to nhf.info/complaints-guide. has been set up to deal specifically with complaints from salon and Avoid a blame culture barbershop clients and is cheaper Unless the member of staff involved than the fees charged by other ADR frequently receives complaints providers,” says Caroline. Go to from clients don’t blame them for a nhf.info/ADR to find out more about one-off incident or single them out NHF/NBF hair and beauty mediation.

Visit nhf.info/join or call 01234 831 965 for more information. Join the NHF/NBF before the end of June 2019 and quote HJJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

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Talent Spotting Say hello to the winners of the 2019 Hooker & Young Style Awards 71 / hji.co.uk

SOPHIE GIBSON - GOSFORTH SALON / SALON TREND WINNER

FASHION

BEVAN CLARK - JESMOND SALON / SCHWARZKOPF ESSENTIAL LOOK WINNER

JONATHAN TURNER - JESMOND SALON / HOOKER & YOUNG STYLE AWARD WINNER

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MILLIE NESBIT - GOSFORTH SALON / ORIBE AWARD WINNER

KIZZY O’HARA - JESMOND SALON / ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR 1 AND HJ WINNER

FASHION

“The results are a real testament to how hard all of the team worked to produce these incredible looks. It’s amazing to see such young talent knock it out of the park yet again.”

Gary Hooker and Michael Young

KAYLEIGH SKILLEN - JESMOND SALON / ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR 2 WINNER

FASHION

Hair: Kizzy O’Hara, Millie Nesbit, Kayleigh Skillen, Jonathan Turner, Bevan Clark and Sophie Gibson Photography: Michael Young 73 / hji.co.uk

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PRISMATIC POWDERS The art of colouring for the camera 75 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

“It was amazing to work with the Fellowship Colour Project on their collection. My role as their mentor, alongside team leader Paul Dennison was to bring their vision to life. I wanted to share with the team how to play with colour in a studio and how to colour for the camera. The end result is a modern and fresh colour collection for both consumers and the hair industry.�

Robert Eaton, photo shoot mentor 76 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: The Fellowship for British Hairdressing Colour Project with Robert Eaton Make-up: Lucy Flower Styling: Stacey Jane Shaw at Russell Eaton Photography: Richard Miles 77 / hji.co.uk

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Bronze

GODDESS Be inspired by the warm shades found in nature

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FASHION

“Bronzing is the new hair colour trend for this season. Nature was the inspiration for this collection and these natural shades were translated into the hair.’’

Dominic Vleer

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FASHION

Hair: Dominic Vleer and Berni Ottjes for L’Oréal Professionnel, the Netherlands Make-up: Angelique Stapelbroek Styling: Annet Veerbeek Photography: G + K Photo

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3 SHOWS, 3 VENUES Register your interest for free tickets at www.hjlive.co.uk

EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

PRESENTED BY

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JUNGLE Walk on the wild side

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FASHION

“Jungle is a beautifully textured collection featuring two models and a range of styles that show how wild, untamed manes can be crafted into luxurious-looking waves and curls, full of texture, moisture and shine – every time.”

James Earnshaw, creative manager at Bad Apple Hair

Hair: James Earnshaw, creative manager at Bad Apple Hair Make-up: Kate Reynolds Photography: Tom Goddard

84 / hji.co.uk

#theOriginal

sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

The Havana, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk

FASHION

BUFFALO SPIRIT Make bold colour choices

“This collection is all about individuality and a free-spirited progressive force.

Inspired by the 1980s styling revolution, Buffalo Spirit was pioneered by designer Ray Petri. The colour palette was influenced by the bold colour choices of designer Charles Jeffrey, including hot pinks, punchy purples, blues and icy white hues.�

Sam Burnett at HARE & BONE

86 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Sam Burnett, HARE & BONE Make-up: Bea Sweet Styling: Masha Mombelli Photography: Jenny Hands

87 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

REFLECTION Combine the past with the present

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FASHION

“Our inspiration for this collection came from the idea of reflection. When light hits the hair from a camera flash, for example, you can see the undertones and depths of colour within the structure of the hair. We also reflected on the clothes and hairstyles that have come back into fashion to combine the past and present.�

Academy Artistic Team

90 / hji.co.uk

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round.

Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.

Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media.

Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

FASHION

Hair: Academy Artistic Team Make-up: Academy Beauty Team Styling: Bernard Connolly Photography: Desmond Murray

92 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Manipulated

Beauty

“I wanted to create the bald head project to demonstrate that ugly is the new beautiful.�

Keith Harris

Hair: Keith Harris Make-up: Darya Kholodnykh Photography: Daria Belikova Art manipulation: Martanna 93 / hji.co.uk

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE

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T HE HOT LIST

Tangle free

Beyond blonde

Sweeten up

Breeze through knots without damaging hair with the Alfa Italia Liscio Detangling Brush. The brushes are available in four limited edition colours that will stand out on the retail shelf. £4.95+VAT

TIGI Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder is designed for freehand techniques such as balayage, micro or babylights. It can achieve up to 7 levels of lift in only 40 minutes.

Using the brightening properties of camomile and the nourishing benefits of honey, the milk_shake Sweet Camomile range rescues blonde hair from dull days.

From £14.69

Silver power

Bigger is better

Blonder and brighter

Reach for the semi-permanent OSMO Color Psycho in new Wild Black if your client wants to try silver. It can be added to OSMO Color Tamer for unlimited grey colour options. £4.25+VAT

The three-piece Design.ME.Puff.

ME Light Volume Kit contains a volumising shampoo, conditioner and the powder mist to add volume to hair. It is perfect for retail or a mobile stylist’s kitbag. £21.99+VAT

Keep clients’ highlighted or ashy blonde locks cool and clean with the Innoluxe Platinum range.

It includes a toning shampoo, conditioner and mask for in-salon and at-home use. From £21

Red ahead

Glow up

Summer style

Joico LumiShine presents PowerHouse Reds, a collection of fierce reds that range from rosé to rich plum and contain the brand’s unique fade-resistant formula.

RRP £9.20

Mydentity Naked2U has launched new shades for summer – the Naked Glow range is a balance of warm and cool tones and the Blush shades are soft rose hues. Available from Salon Success. From £6.45

The Balmain Limited Edition Summer Set comes with three full-sized products and the chance for you and your client to win a holiday to Bali. Visit karmagroup. com/balmain for details. £23.75

95 / hji.co.uk

T HE HOT LIST

Styling hero

Natural solutions

Highlighter happy

Hercules Sägemann Round Brushes make styling all hair types a breeze. The boar bristles provide a firm grip for straightening or creating movement while blow-drying. £12.80

Inspired by nature, but backed by science, System Professional Inessence features four products with the perfect combination of natural ingredients and performance. From £21.30

The vegan-friendly Sensus Direct Colouring Cream treatment comes in five pastel and four fluorescent shades, which are perfect for festival looks. It is available from Passion4Hair.

Lunch hour colour

Curl friends

Lift it up

Available in 14 shades, Indola XpressColor has a 10-minute processing time. This means grey coverage, root retouching, creative colour and tone refreshing can be achieved during a lunch break.

Curls and waves need the right level of care – too much nourishment will overload the hair and too little will result in dry tresses. Meet Wella Professionals Nutricurls – a specialist range for curls and waves.

Reset your client’s colour history with Schwarzkopf Professional Bond Enforcing Color Remover. It reduces pigment build-up, lifts the hair up to 3 levels and strengthens the hair fibre.

In-demand colour

Big, bold colour

Corkscrew curls

IdHAIR has five new Intense Ash shades and three new Sand shades in its Hair Paint and Hair Paint Free colour ranges. The shades will provide a glossy finish that your clients will love.

Achieve vibrant and pastel looks with Pulp Riot Semi-Permanent OGs. Available in 16 shades, the conditioner-based colour is easy to apply for extra vibrant, long-lasting shades that fade true to tone.

Corioliss Style Stick is your shortcut to creating both tight spiral curls and natural wavy styles.

The slim and curved barrel heats to 210° and it features a salon-length cord for greater versatility. £49.99

96 / hji.co.uk

PRESENTED BY

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019

AT SALON INTERNATIONAL Do you have what it takes?

Visit www.salonshow.co.uk/competitions to find out more and to enter today

Extensions categories are sponsored by

www.salonshow.co.uk #Salon19

INTERIORS

CENTENARY

SPECIAL The RUSH Westfield White City salon marks a significant milestone for the salon chain

S

ince the very first RUSH salon opened in Wimbledon in 1994, the brand has gone from strength to strength – now it is celebrating the opening of its 100th salon. RUSH Westfield White City follows the brand’s styling ethos. It features raw industrial lighting with neutral colours and stone floors with an Instagrammable art installation that is perfect for the digital age.

“We are very fortunate as the premises are a new part of Westfield White City so we had a new shell where we could create our salon vision,” explains Stell Andrew, RUSH co-founder. “It’s not often you get a new space to transform so it was very exciting to put our stamp on it.” A colour wall created by

FACT FILE Name: RUSH Hair Address: RUSH Westfield White City, Westfield London Owners: RUSH Hair & Beauty How long in the premises: 6 months Staff: 14 98 / hji.co.uk

INTERIORS

STELL‘S TOP TIPS • Be realistic The first rule of any renovation is to ensure the goals you are setting are realistic and that you can achieve these by your target time.

When we set an opening date, we stick to it, regardless of any issues.

• Prepare for the unexpected Going into a renovation can sometimes unearth some issues you did not expect. This could be anything from hidden leaks to unseen structural issues so always have a plan B and C! • Don’t be afraid to delegate Remember you can’t do everything by yourself. Look at employing someone to oversee the renovation. Our project manager Dudley Sutton is one in a million – we couldn’t do it without him.

artist Matt Small is just one of the ways the salon chain has shown its individuality and creativity. “We wanted to have something that captured the attention of those looking in from the outside, which is why we enlisted the help of street artist Matt,” adds Stell. Matt has created a bespoke multi-coloured abstract wall painting which is used as part of the brand’s social media campaign. Guests love to take selfies in front of it and stylists use it as a backdrop when capturing images of their work.

Clean, light and bright are the adjectives that best describe the RUSH aesthetic. The full glass frontage floods the salon with natural light and catches the eye of passers-by, which is essential

in a busy shopping centre with lots of footfall. The furniture in the new store and in all of RUSH’s salons in fact, is from Maletti so it was already tried and tested. In particular, the team and clients love the Maletti Morpheus chair.

Stell describes the grey stone floor as a hit for both the team and clients. He says: “Not only is our floor beautiful to look at, but it is also very hard wearing. Footfall is heavy at this branch so that’s a huge bonus.”

Whether clients combine RUSH Westfield White City with their retail therapy experience or choose to book in for a lunchtime hair appointment, this new salon is a cool and calming space for all.

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0844 3356 121 I N - S A L O N

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SEE OUR FULL RANGE SALONSUPPLIES.CO.UK

O N L I N E

2.5% of ALL our Pietranera sales in 2019 will now be donated to the Hairdressers Charity!

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BRAND NEW SHOWROOM Southampton Furniture Showroom, Bond Street, Northam, Southampton, SO14 5QA

CAREERS

Cynthia De La Rosa

The Theatre Wig Designer Cynthia created the wigs for West End show The Twilight Zone with help from backstage product sponsors OSMO. Here she reveals her tips for making it in the UK wig-making industry What was your route into hair?

I studied costume design in the US. One of the modules was about wigs and I was mentored by the head of wigs and make-up at the Metropolitan Opera. After that, I took part in a study abroad programme with work experience at London’s V&A museum. I came back to London after university and asked my V&A museum contact for suggestions on where to send my CV. The list included the head of wigs at the English National Opera (ENO). I went to the stage door and asked for a call out and she came to the door. I told her about my previous experience and gave her my CV. The next day someone quit and because she’d met me and knew my credentials, she gave me the job. I worked at the ENO for over nine years and received lots of priceless on-the-job training.

second one he took the wig off and had his natural bald head. The shock of the audience was the thrill for me.

What’s in your kitbag?

Brands often sponsor films and theatre productions and provide products but if you are freelancing you will need your own kit. I always bring my own brushes and scissors.

I love OSMO Extra Strength Spray because it keeps the hair in place.

Schwarzkopf Got2b Glued Gel gets all of the baby hairs out of the way when putting on a wig and it’s also an amazing adhesive to glue down a wig.

I love Cantu as a leave-in product for Afro hair and use Shea Moisture as a leave-in hair mask and place it on the hair before the wig to protect it.

What’s your present role?

I’m the wig, make-up and hair designer for The Twilight Zone in London’s West End. What are the pros and cons of your role?

The biggest pros are learning something new with every project, meeting new people and challenging your creativity.

But theatre world hours are not family-friendly. A lot of our work takes place at night and you often work six-day weeks.

What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

Tap on the right doors, work hard and don’t say no to an opportunity.

Wig-making is booming so follow people on Instagram and ask for work experience.

What’s your styling philosophy?

I like to trick the audience. I worked with an actor who was naturally bald and I made his first character a flamboyant one with a wig and for his 101 / hji.co.uk

What are your favourite accounts to follow on Instagram?

Vanessa Davies does special effects with skull-based make-up and wigs (@the_wigs_and_makeup_manager).

I follow @thewigsandmakeupstudio and they have a YouTube channel, which shows the learning process. I love @AnthonyCuts and @samuel_ james_wigs_ Instagram pages about wig-making. Plus, @FatMascara is great for learning how people have gone into session work.

What’s next for you and your career?

I’d love to move into film and design a film or a television series but my first love is theatre – in an ideal world I’d love to do both!

RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team

ANDREW COLLINGE Recruiting now for Stylists, Technicians and Apprenticeships Brothers are a group of 3 Aveda lifestyle / concept Salons established for 25 years in Thame, a vibrant upmarket bustling market town in Oxfordshire; Oxford, a very busy cosmopolitan city; and Marlow, an upmarket bustling town in Buckinghamshire.

A great career opportunity to progress your talent and skill with photo opportunities, stage work and fashion shows. ● Great salary on application, product

sales, commissions

NOW HIRING

● Ongoing training with Aveda, GHD,

Olaplex, Nanokeratin

We are recruiting Hair Stylists for our brand new salon, in the state-of-the-art beauty hall at Selfridges Trafford Centre, Manchester.

● As well as photo shoots / fashion

shows / stage work opportunities brothersthame@googlemail.com 01844 217365 brothersoxford@googlemail.com 01865 250696 brothersmarlow@googlemail.com 01628 484717

brothers, 16 Buttermarket, Thame, Oxon, OX9 3EP | 01844 217365

www.brotherssalons.co.uk 102 / hji.co.uk

To find out more about this exciting opportunity and to apply, visit:

andrewcollinge.com/careers

re opport i JOIN THE RUSH FAMILY TODAY! 020 3474 4102 careers@rush.co.uk careers.rush.co.uk VISIT US ON STAND M140 AT SALON INTERNATIONAL For tickets to Salon International and Rush Live, visit www.salonshow.co.uk/rush

WINNER 2017/18 ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR

RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

Technician / Stylist Banstead, Surrey Are you living in Surrey, working in a London salon and tired of commuting?

hji.co.uk/jobs

About us: Tuttii Fruittii London is an Independent & Boundary Pushing Salon based in SE London, Deptford. We pride ourselves on being gender neutral and catering to all hair types. Our signature innovative colour work and hair sculptures reach out worldwide thanks to our thriving social media platforms. Our business stands above all things for equality and freedom of self-expression.

“We have created a real energy in the local community here drawing in a great mix of customers and building bridges between different worlds. This diversity is such a rich part of London’s culture which needs to be nourished and cherished.”

We began the project in our Colourful Caravan in a local art hub 5 years ago. After doing a crowdfunder we moved into our current premises of 3 years in Deptford. Since moving we have featured in magazines worldwide such as INFRINGE, I-D, OUT magazine & Dazed expanding our name globally. Over the last couple of years we have showcased our brand on 2 stages at Salon International including Hair Tribe, and at MCB World in Paris to compete on the innovative hair stage, as well as exhibited at the Old Truman Brewery shot by Derek Ridgers.

Job Role: Stylist We would like to offer an opportunity for a creative stylist to work in our exciting & vibrant salon. You should have at least 5 years experience as a stylist, experience of building a column and client base as well as excellent customer service with clients. You must be able to cut all hair types, lengths, styles and be fluent in english. There are positions available for either full time or part time depending on your experience.

Many creative opportunities come with this job – participating in photoshoots and competitions plus more.

Salary: We pay an hourly wage of £9 as well as a 30% daily commission, with a sliding scale of commission on product sales.

If you are looking to work in a creative environment in London, want flexibility and can manage your own clientele then this salon may just be for you.

Please email your cv to tuttiifruittiilondon@gmail.com

We have a vacancy for a creative technician/stylist who has comprehensive experience in all aspects of hairdressing.

5 days per week Salary- £45,000 per annum

@HJI_Jobs

Call Jane on 07730678950 Call Clifford on 07789733339 Applications via email can be made to cliffordhunt@btconnect.com Andrew K, a little oasis tucked away in the heart of quirky Marylebone Village.

A friendly but professional atmosphere; where you can come and unwind by having your hair, nails, feet, or a complete body treatment by highly experienced professionals.

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

Available space for rental, for a person who is self-motivated to bring their clients with the opportunity to grow and develop, with their own style. The Salon could offer a small self contained private room or the option to work in an open working Salon. The rental will include a fully serviced Salon ie. hot water, laundry service and teas and coffees.

Please contact Andrew on 07801 891120 or email andrew@andrewk.co.uk if you are interested. Cost: £400.00 per week.

104 / hji.co.uk

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE jobs.hji.co.uk/register

CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

PROPERTY

Chislehurst Kent, NEW Reading area. Old Established Hair Salon. Good Class Area. Lease. Spacious Salon. Eleven styling positions. £2,500wk (5 days). £35,000 NEW Woking near, Surrey. Hair Salon. Wealthy Village Centre. Lease @ £13,000p.a. Same owner 12 years. Under trading. £18,000 Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Edgware / Mill Hill area, North London. Good Class Hair Salon. New Lease. £2,000wk. Owner retiring. £39,500 (or £460,000 F’hold inc 2 Bed Flat) Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 REDUCED PRICE West Berks - few miles Newbury - High Class Country Town. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £1,800wk. Real scope younger owner. £10,000

Close Elmstead Wood BR

Hair Salon to let on a new full repairing and insuring lease for a period to be agreed with provision for a regular Rent Review.

In-going tenant to bear reasonable legal costs incurred in the granting of new lease.

Premises form a large retail unit on ground floor and lower ground floor with kitchen, staff room, WC and separate large storage room for products, parking to rear.

Please email phil_daniels@live.co.uk if you are interested.

HAIR PLANN, 6 Walden Pde. Walden Road, Chislehurst, Kent BR7 5DW, United Kingdom

Hairdressers Journal International

has a print circulation of 12,000 copies

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A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

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GROUP

Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk

Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture

Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/

105 / hji.co.uk

INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens T Owned

“This image is about female empowerment no matter how you wear your hair. When I hand-picked this Dutch beauty from Instagram, I knew I had all of the ingredients to complete my vision.”

Q R V S P R K 7

H OO H K 0LF

Michelle Thompson from Francesco Group’s Birmingham Salon & Academy is HJ’s British Afro Hairdresser of the Year, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. She is renowned for creating beautiful hair. Here are six of her all-time favourites W Raw emotion

“This collection was based on fashion photographer Paolo Roversi’s ability to capture real raw emotion. All of the models were chosen based on their real emotion in front of the camera – powerful, alluring and raw.

The image I’ve chosen represents the confidence, femininity and beauty I see in women.”

X Tribe

“Not all images are as they appear – this was one of the most unforgettable and difficult to shoot. The model looks like she’s in an action shot but it was actually captured while she was lying down on a six-foot high self-built glass table. I’ll never forget having to style hair while the model was lying down.”

T Simple but HŦHFWLYH

“This is an image from my most recent collection – Translucent.

It allowed me to express my inner thoughts and emotions all in one image. I used all of the skills I’ve acquired from working with textured hair – it’s simple but effective.”

X Bohemian

“Inspired by powerful women throughout the ages, I created this look around Cleopatra being an influential character in the Egyptian era.

I wanted to bring the past to the present and showcase how women with Afro hair wear their hair today using accessories such as beads and shells.”

106 / hji.co.uk

W 'HŤQLWLYH SRZHU

“I won Afro Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, for the first time with this collection in 2009. This image was influenced by Grace Jones.

The hair was styled using the pin-frizzing method and moulded into the classic Jones flat-top.”

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