HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL
HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
The ultimate scissors guide
May 2019
£5|May 2019|hji.co.uk 0 5
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CONTENTS
May 2019 News
08
Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up
12
HJ Reports The latest from the Matrix and Biolage conference in Lanzarote
21
Let’s Get Digital The most clicked content on our website and social channels
23
Award-Winning Hair Why you should enter the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional
24
Best in the Business Discover the simplified process for entering the British Hairdressing Business Awards
26
Becoming a Franchisee Guy Kremer and colour director JC Aucamp share insights from their franchising journey
28
Survival of the Fittest Five ways to stand out on the British high street
30
Business Panel This month’s topic is about tapping into the male grooming market
34
The Debate Should salons be VAT registered?
MILKSHAKE
Business
80
54
Features
37
A Cut Above The ultimate scissors buying guide
45
Salon Design Faux Pas The most common salon interior mistakes and how to avoid them
50
Furniture focus Five must-have interior launches for the salon
HJ Exclusive: ghd x Rush A new product and salon partnership
Inspiration
56
Fashion Seven exclusive fashion collections
90
Interiors Take a tour around Aesthetics Hair and Beauty in Henley-inArden, Warwickshire
93
Careers Salon chain owner David Charlton discusses the importance of charity
98
Life Through a Lens Hooker & Young’s all-time favourite images
Regulars
88
The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month 4 / hji.co.uk
EDITOR’S LETTER
ROBERT KI RBY
37 Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360
SHUTTERS
TOCK
Managing Director Mark Moloney
45
Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363
Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369
We l c o m e
A
wards entry season is officially upon us so if you’re keen to make your mark in 2019 we want to hear from you. Go to page 24 to discover how easy it is to enter this year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards. On page 23, winners from last year’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, discuss what the accolade has meant for their careers. We’ve also just announced the launch of the NHF Britain’s Best competition in partnership with Hairdressers Journal International. Check out our website for more information on how to get involved. The finalists will compete live at Salon International on Sunday 6 October so put the date in your diary now. If you’re in the market for a new pair of scissors you won’t want to miss our Ultimate Scissors Guide on page 37 with a design to suit everyone’s budget. Finally, if you’re planning a salon refit, opening a new store or looking for some inspo for that interior spring clean, we have tips, advice and everything you will need to consider on page 45. We hope you enjoy this jam-packed issue!
Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377
Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366
Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373
Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Event Executive Becca Painter becca@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536
On the cover: Hair: Mark Leeson at Mark Leeson Salons for Revlon Professional Make-up: Lans Nguyen-Grealis Styling: M&R Photography: Richard Miles 5 / hji.co.uk
Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Emma Buchan emma.b@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061 Marketing Executive Vari O’Neill vari@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536
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NEWS
INDUSTRY NEWS 85%
A new study by digital marketing agency marketingsignals.com has found 85% of UK consumers prefer to shop in store, despite the convenience of online shopping. The survey of 1,056 UK adults revealed the majority of consumers want to have the product as soon as they’ve purchased it. Most of the respondents (94%) stated they research products online first, which suggests salons should have an omni-channel retail plan.
Jamie Stevens for Hot Tools Jamie Stevens, European creative director of electrical brand Hot Tools Professional will assist the brand creatively while also representing Hot Tools Professional at shows and events. He said: “I love the range and I’ve always been impressed by the innovative design which helps stylists to create their very best work. Teaming up with Hot Tools is a dream role and I can’t wait to showcase the possibilities the brand offers.” Hot Tools EMEA brand manager Michelle Wilson said: “We’re looking forward to working with Jamie to help showcase our brand alongside Robert Eaton who together make a truly talented and inspiring team to drive Hot Tools forward.”
President’s Night Karine Jackson ended her two-year position as the president of The Fellowship for British Hairdressing last month and handed over to Ken Picton at the annual President’s Night. The event at London’s Landmark Hotel saw models from the F.A.M.E. Team, Project X, ClubStar Art Team, Colour Project, Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year, Tina Farey, and winner of Fellowship Image of the Year, Robert Masciave. After dinner, Karine gave a speech before handing over her presidential chain to Ken. She said: “I’ve loved every
minute of my presidency and I’m proud of the changes we’ve made during my tenure. I can’t think of anyone better to hand over to than Ken and I wish him every success.” Karine used her presidency to launch the Barber Project. She also introduced the Live Lounge interview concept, which took the Fellowship on the road and increased membership. Robert Eaton will serve as vicepresident and Fellowship members have voted for the Council who will advise on events, sponsorships and memberships.
Haircuts4Homeless Academy Opens
T
he first ever Haircuts4Homeless (H4H) Academy has opened to teach homeless people and those on a low income the art of hairdressing with the aim of helping them get back into work. “There has never been a better time than now,” said hairdresser and founder Stewart Roberts whose community group became ‘the face’ of the National Lottery People’s Project in 2018. Stewart launched the academy at Jet Training Academy in Basildon, Essex after collecting data from H4H projects in Romford, Ilford, Chelmsford, Southend and Ipswich. He also received feedback from centre managers,volunteers and the individuals taking part in the programme. The campaign is supported by The Jet Training Academy, Akito Scissors, Evo Hair Products and City & Guilds. City & Guilds will be creating a bespoke qualification for students and Akito Scissors will be
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presenting students with a pair of professional scissors at graduation. “Once this model is proven H4H aims to roll it out across the UK,” said Stewart. “With over 500 volunteers we also have many great leads into salons so we have a natural route into work for our graduates.”
NEWS
The L’Oréal Color Trophy grand finalists have now been announced. The 64 finalists were selected at the eight regional semi-final events, which were held across the UK, including Northern Ireland, Scotland, North East, North West, West, East, South and London. The finalists will appear at the L’Oréal Color Trophy Grand Final, held at
Battersea Evolution on 3 June 2019. The evening will feature a show inspired by kaleidoscopic colour. It will be art directed by Tim Hartley, SAKS (Luke Pluckrose) and Trevor Sorbie (Johanna Cree Brown). Tickets are available to purchase now by going to lorealcolourtrophy.com/tickets. Go to hji.co.uk for more information.
mynewhair Makes Debut in Canada
T
revor Sorbie MBE is launching his medical hair loss charity mynewhair in Canada this month. He set up mynewhair in 2006 in memory of his sister-in-law Jackie Anders who lost her hair during cancer treatment. The charity provides public advice and support to a network of professional stylists and independent salons. The charity also provides a wig styling service for people suffering from cancer and medical hair loss.
Toni & Guy Receives Superbrand Status Toni & Guy has been awarded consumer superbrand status for the 12th time. The Consumer Superbrands survey has tracked the perception of a wide range of brands in the UK since 1995. The 2019 survey featured 1,596 brands across 78 different categories. Only the most highly-regarded brands from each category receive superbrand status. Brands are judged against three core factors – quality, reliability and distinction. Brand perception and voting by individuals was influenced by short and long-term factors, from the brand’s current profile to its marketing activities and product and service developments. 9 / hji.co.uk
Two new training schemes teaching hairdressers how to spot the signs of domestic abuse have launched in Northern England. Cut It Out Rochdale is a councilfunded initiative that trains hair professionals on how to discuss the issue with clients. In West Yorkshire, registered counsellor and freelance trainer, Jane Thoy, has set up RealTalk workshops. The sessions teach hairdressers how to spot the signs of abuse and approach clients in an appropriate way.
SHUTTERSTOCK
JACKS OF LONDON
L’Oréal Color Trophy 2019
BROOKS & BROOKS
Domestic Abuse Warning Signs
NOT ANOTHER SALON
HEADMASTERS GREAT PORTLAND STREET
Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates
Sachajuan’s New UK Partnership Sweet Squared has an exclusive UK distributor partnership with Swedish professional haircare brand Sachajuan. The co-founders Sacha Mitic and Juan Roselind have created a product range that embraces simplicity. Mark Shorrock, head of haircare at Sweet Squared said: “It’s not often you get the chance to work with passionate artist-driven brands and we are excited to represent them in the UK. The brand’s approach to premium haircare is sure to be a hit with our professional customers.”
NEWS
Australian Hairdresser of the Year 2019 The Australian Hair Fashion Awards 2019 were held at Sydney’s Luna Park on Sunday 14 April. Craig Smith from Fruition was named the AHFA Australian Hairdresser of the Year 2019. Four of the images from his award-winning collection are pictured above.
Most Hair Appointments Take Place in Office Hours Working hours are the most popular time to visit a hairdresser or barber in the UK and Ireland. A report based on data from over 325,000 British and Irish hair and beauty salon clients registered with Versum.com, found the busiest and most profitable hour is 9am. Salons see four times more clients and earn nearly seven times more than after work at 6pm. The early peak time frame continues through to the lunchbreak with 61% of daily appointments completed by 1pm. Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest with 40.19% of services scheduled on these days each week and
Mondays are the least crowded with the day taking fewer than 9% of bookings. The busiest months for salons are March, May, and June. Versum CEO Sebastian Maśka said the results demonstrate that whether it is a summer trip or a long weekend, clients want to look and feel good. He added: “These months are also the peak season for job interviews.” The report also found the average client is 38 years old, visits a salon five times a year and spends slightly over £200 a year in a single salon. Haircuts and colour are top of the list making up 40% of a client’s annual appointments.
business rates relief. The valuations change every three years and the relief is often short-term, which means even the smallest salons aren’t exempt from business rates. When it comes to larger salons, almost half (42%) reported their business rates had gone up when they were last revalued in April 2017. Over an eighth (13%) had seen their rates go down. The NHF has warned salons about the rise of invoice fraud, where criminals pretend to be a regular supplier and persuade a business owner to change their bank account details. Four in 10 businesses were not aware of the practice, yet it cost firms £93m last year, according to the trade body, UK Finance. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF/NBF said: “As sole traders or small businesses, hair salons and barbershops are at high risk of being targeted by scammers.” Cyber-crime is also on the rise, a recent NHF survey has found. Over half of the salons surveyed had experienced credit/debit card fraud, phone call scams, phishing emails, ransomware attacks and viruses. Hilary said: “If someone asks you to change a supplier’s bank account details be suspicious. Use the contact details you already have to make an independent check yourself with the supplier. Don’t use a phone number or email address given to you by someone else.” Go to nhf.info for more information.
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SHUTTERSTOCK
SHUTTERSTOCK
NHF’s Double Warning ising business rates are putting a financial strain on salons of all sizes. The NHF found two thirds of hair R salons, beauty salons and barbershops qualify for small
HJ REPORTS
SUN, SEA, MATRIX & BIOLAGE
HJ spent three days in Lanzarote to discover what’s in store for the brands over the coming months
B
iolage and Matrix’s managing director Sussan Verghesse opened the annual conference by describing 2018 as a roller coaster with a challenging market and political environment. She told delegates Biolage and Matrix went on a journey of transformation to become more client centric and salon oriented, which is essential for future success. Sussan explained: “The world is shifting and consumer ideals are changing but there’s never been a better time for the power to be in a professional’s hands. Hairdressers are giant influencers and in a recent survey of who influences a women’s hair colouring routine most, almost half (47 per cent) chose hairdressers.” Clean beauty, vivids and blondes There are three main priorities for Matrix and Biolage this year – clean beauty, vivids and blondes. Clean beauty is making waves within the beauty and hairdressing industry and Sussan is keen for salons to remind clients that Biolage is perfect for those who want products 12 / hji.co.uk
that are clean on the inside and out. Biolage has launched a selection of Deep Treatments that have the look and feel of products that could be found on a YouTuber’s Sephora beauty haul and the packaging allows you to get every last drop out of the tube. Biolage’s new All-in-One Coconut Infusion MultiBenefit Spray taps into the current coconut trend (it is one of the most searched ingredients online thanks to its health and beauty benefits). The second priority is the trend for bright and vivid hair colours. Matrix aims to build on the success of its 2018 So Color Cult launch with a new vivid Starfish Coral shade, which will appeal to fans of the 2019 Pantone Color of the Year – Living Coral. Finally, the official 2019 mantra for Matrix salons is ‘blondes mean business’. Blondes are more likely to return to the salon on a regular basis so Matrix has created a number of products specifically for them ranging from fast toners, which work in five minutes to acidic toners for maximum protection; and ultra lifts that can give 5 levels of lift to clients who want to go lighter.
HJ REPORTS
S Matrix and Biolage final looks The first day concluded with a stunning hair show featuring a variety of beach-ready styles. Matrix and Biolage’s hair artists and ambassadors Paul Falltrick, Ashleigh Hodges, Desmond Murray, Christian Wiles and Sharon Peake, created the looks live on stage before the models strutted the wearable styles down the catwalk.
S Matrix: Blondes mean business On day two delegates took part in workshops with an assortment of hands-on exercises. The Matrix workshop was focused on blondes mean business. Attendees learned toners have seen an increase in terms of uptake in the salon but only 20 per cent of clients understand the benefits of using a toner on their hair. The Matrix team explained education will be key to promoting Matrix’s new acidic and fast toners. Attendees were also told the colour market has grown by 6% but clients are going into the salon less frequently. Matrix has created a solution, specifically for blondes called the Tone, Love and Care (TLC) package. The package includes products and a professional service that will encourage blondes to return to the salon between colour visits in a bid to protect the condition and maintain the vibrancy of their hair. The practical exercise involved attendees being asked to show the steps it would take for a celebrity client to go from a dark shade to a blonde shade using Matrix’s new acidic and fast toners.
T Biolage: Instagram-worthy shots Paul Falltrick, Biolage’s new global ambassador introduced the Biolage workshop. He explained that his new role will include putting together imagery for the brand and writing education courses. His Biolage mission is to elevate the professional beauty industry, create memorable experiences for clients and to educate stylists and consumers in sustainable beauty practices. Biolage is growing its digital presence in 2019 with a dedicated website for the brand and the Biolage Instagram account is also growing. For the first exercise, attendees were asked to experiment with creating an Instagram-worthy flatlay image featuring Biolage’s new Deep Treatments. After this, the group were asked to apply the new Biolage Color Last Shampoo onto wefts of hair to see how it can be used to neutralise brassy and yellow tones in the salon.
S An evening of recognition
On the final evening, attendees were taken to a restaurant in a beautiful fort overlooking the sea for the Matrix & Biolage Recognition Awards. The Awards were dedicated to the brands’ educators, distributors and sales teams. Alan Howard was named the Education Partner and Distributor of the Year, while Salon Success was named the Sales Team of the Year. 13 / hji.co.uk
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HOLISTIC EDUCATION WITH MYHAIRDRESSERS.COM Training providers are failing to give apprentices a holistic education, according to Edward Hemmings of Alan d Hairdressing Education. He says the training process is often a tick-box exercise with an emphasis on the portfolio. He fears future hairdressers won't have a solid foundation for salon life. If you want to give your apprentice the best education you need to find the best training provider available. “The playlist technology and incredible content MHD provides has strengthened the education we deliver.” He added: “Put simply, MHD covers every technique that’s needed to become a successful industry professional.” Visit myhairdressers.com to try MHD for free or to arrange a demonstration call 0330 088 9380.
PLASTIC IS NOT FANTASTIC
Hair health forms the core foundation of every product formulation within the Advanced Pro Salon range. The products are scientifically developed by leading experts to ensure hair is in peak condition during the colouring process. Plus, the right blend of ingredients combats damage caused by styling and environmental pollutants. ProPlex Technology is infused into pre-lightener powder formulas as an essential ingredient across 9 Level Super Light, 7 Level ProBleach and 6 Level Peppermint Scalp Bleach to protect hair from within. This eradicates the need for additional liquid-based plex treatments, which dilute the bleach mix, resulting in reduced lift performance and prolonged development times. ColourCode includes 117 dual colour professional shades and each one is infused with ProPlex Technology and enriched with argan oil, antioxidants, vitamins C, E and pro-vitamin B5 for richer and deeper multi-tonal shades. The Advanced Pro Salon range also extends through to post-colour care with shampoos, conditioners and treatments to achieve vibrant and luxuriously healthy hair. For more information about Advanced Pro Salon go to advancedprosalon.co.uk.
P
remier Software is running a social media campaign called #PremierBottleBuddies in a bid to prevent the use of single-use plastics. The brand has announced it will be removing all plastic cups from water coolers in its office. Employees will be given a reusable water bottle branded with its 25th anniversary logo and the hashtag #PremierBottleBuddies. The bottles will also be distributed on training days and at account management meetings. Clients will have an opportunity to win a relaxing spa day for two at a Spa Naturel Fitness within select Mercure venues. To enter, follow @premiersoftware on Instagram, post a picture with the bottle using the hashtag #PremierBottleBuddies and tag three friends. The winner will be announced at the end of June on the brand's Instagram page. For more information and to see the T&Cs, visit premiersoftware.uk/ pbb-salon/.
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Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news
SO SCANDI
@hji
@hairdressersjournal
If you’re sick of silver, the latest blonde hair trend could be a new client favourite. ‘What is Scandi Blonde? – The New Platinum Colour of the Summer’ is our most clicked story this month. Our Facebook fans went wild for the article many of whom are happy at the prospect of having to create fewer silver shades in the salon. Phyllis Morgart commented: “I hope this takes hold – I’m tired of the icy blondes!”
Hairdressers Journal
@hjinteractive
Social Shout Out
@freddie.yeah If you’re a fan of vivids and seeing the art in the process, this account is definitely one for you. These rainbow brights are simply stunning. Akesha, digital editor
#BHA19
DEADLINE DAY
@kenpicton Check out the feed of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s new president to get a feel for what he’ll be bringing to the role over the next two years. Laura, HJ editor
REX FEATURES
Entries have already started to pour in as the deadline for the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional draws closer. All first-round entries have to be in by Friday 21 June at 5pm. For more information go to hji.co.uk/bha.
HJ Making Waves e know how much our readers W love business content so we have a new video series dedicated to just that. HJ Making Waves focuses on the people behind the scenes of some great UK hairdressing salons and brands. It kicked off with Chop Chop London co-founder Kaye Sotomi. Search HJ Making Waves on YouTube to check it out. 21 / hji.co.uk
@heffyx Colourist Heffy Wheeler’s grid is a bewitching mix of dreamy jewel tones and ethereal pearlescent shades. Charlotte, HJ content editor
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PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY
n Applicatio deadline 9
21 June 201 at 5pm
WHY YOU SHOULD ENTER Read these winners’ quotes to see why entering HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, could change your life “To be recognised in the industry means the world to us and to be given the platform to grow in the industry after winning is unbelievable. We are now meeting people we have looked up to throughout our careers – it’s so surreal!”
“The awards are a way of working towards a vision and shooting a collection that you can look back on to see your own journey.”
Jessica Neil and Mary Geoghegan, Eastern Hairdressers of the Year
“Moving to the UK 10 years ago and establishing my career and life here has made winning London Hairdresser of the Year even more of an honour. Having a project that takes my attention away from the daily routine and into a world of creative freedom is amazing.”
“Creating a collection is so rewarding and if you are lucky enough to win you appreciate your craft in a different way. Winning gives you respect within the industry and opens up so many doors for you to explore. Whether it’s generating new clients or getting the opportunity to travel and be part of the industry elite – the possibilities are endless.” Michelle Thompson, Afro Hairdresser of the Year
“When I moved to London three and a half years ago I promised myself that I would enter. Winning Newcomer of the Year is a dream come true. It’s a result of hard work and not just talent – I work every single second and always push myself further.” Gianluca Caruso, Newcomer of the Year
Sally Brooks, British Hairdresser of the Year
Philipp Haug, London Hairdresser of the Year
“It brings positive energy into the salon for our clients and peers. The experience fills you with confidence and revitalises your passion.” Isobel Eaton and Jesse Jackson, North Eastern Hairdressers of the Year
“It has been key for building my profile within the industry. It’s also helped us to get new clients, recruit new staff and, last but not least, it’s been great for our education.” Damien Johnston, Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year
Sally’s tips for creating a winning collection
1
Try to come up with a concept that captures the imagination of other hairdressers and that will stand the test of time. You want to show British hairdressing as forward-thinking.
2
Learn from your previous work as you will see your progress from each collection you create.
3
It’s not about spending lots of money but it is about investing a lot of time.
Entries are now open for the British Hairdressing Awards 2019, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. Download the entry form at hji.co.uk/bha, complete the form and send us your images before Friday 21 June 2019. The awards evening will take place on Monday 25 November 2019 at JW Marriott Grosvenor House, Park Lane, London. 23 / hji.co.uk
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019
Applicati deadlineon It’s easy to enter the British Hairdressing Business Awards, in fact you can do it in five easy steps…
1 Go online!
3 Create an account
which category 2 Decide you want to enter
4 Enter your chosen categories
The entry process for the British Hairdressing Business Awards 2019 is now online-only. Visit hji.co.uk/bhba to take a look at our new website. Take note, postal entries will no longer be accepted to ensure the judging process is fair for everyone. Remember the deadline for entries is Friday 14 June 2019 at 5pm so put it in your diary now.
There’s a choice of 16 categories ranging from Business Director of the Year to Innovation of the Year so read over the requirements and choose the ones that best suit you or your business. We have a new category, Social Stylist of the Year for any budding social stars who are translating engagement on their social feeds into business for the salon. Plus, the criteria for three of this year’s core categories (Customer Service Award, Marketing Campaign and Male Grooming Salon/Barbershop of the Year) have changed to ensure they suit the way you and your business works in 2019.
Click on the category you would like to enter on the website and you’ll be led to a page where you can create an account. Once you’ve created an account you will receive an email containing an activation link. You will need to activate your account before you can complete your application. As ever, entering the British Hairdressing Business Awards is free of charge.
Read the entry requirements and get writing. You can enter more than one category. However, you must submit each entry separately. You can see all of your entries in the transactions section of your account. Make sure each entry is unique in its content as the judges will be looking to see how your entry relates to the category’s specific criteria. You don’t have to submit your entry in one go – you can click ‘save for later’ and come back to it at your leisure. This year you can also add a short 90-second video to your entries. It’s compulsory for the Social Stylist category and is encouraged for the other categories as it will allow the judges to get to know you.
14 June 2 019 at 5pm
5 +ZW[[ aW]Z ÅVOMZ[
The shortlist will be announced in mid-July. It’s worth noting that if you are shortlisted in the Business Director of the Year, Manager, Salon Stylist or Junior categories you will be required to attend a 30-minute interview in central London on either Monday 22 July or Tuesday 23 July. In the meantime, don’t forget to buy your tickets for the awards ceremony which is taking place on Monday 9 September 2019 at Park Plaza, Westminster Bridge, London.
For entry and table sales enquiries email Becca Painter at becca@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365.
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BUSINESS
Opening a Franchise Could starting a franchise be your next step? Guy Kremer and his colour director JC Aucamp discuss why working with the right franchisee is key to their new franchise salon’s success
A
lmost 40 years into his career Guy has decided to expand his business by opening a salon in Lymington with his colour director JC Aucamp under the Guy Kremer name. When JC approached Guy with a proposal to open his own salon a few years ago, Guy knew he had the right talent and skill to run a successful business. “He’s ambitious and has been very committed to my brand for many years,” explains Guy. JC needed a new challenge but wanted to benefit from the proven structure and framework of the Guy Kremer brand.
JC Aucamp’s top tips for becoming a franchisee
Becoming a franchisee JC was excited to step into his new role as owner but admits it does come with a new perspective. “I definitely see and do things differently now that I’m in charge,” he explains. “I look at the business as a whole and I view every single client as my own. There is also a whole new level of responsibility to the staff in the salon, which I didn’t have to prioritise before.” Guy feels he has relinquished the reins to just the right person: “JC and I operate with trust, mutual respect and we’re totally transparent with each other. I’m around to be a support and there are no shadows of doubt between us, which is crucial,” he confides. JC is hands-on at the salon from Tuesday through to Saturday and Guy aims to be at Lymington one day a week so he can provide the back-up JC needs, be a sounding board for the business and keep in touch with clients who have relocated from Guy’s existing salon.
Guy Kremer’s top tips for starting a franchise • Pick the right franchisee – This person should reflect your brand and have an ambition and personality that will make the business work. • Be careful about location – Your new salon can’t be too close to
Expanding the franchise Will the franchise model be something Guy can see himself repeating in the future? “Definitely – it’s no secret that I’d like my long-term art director Jonny Engstrom to have more of a stake in the Winchester salon in the future. But apart from that let’s just say we may have some more plans in the pipeline.” Similarly, JC admits he would consider opening some new Guy Kremer branches. He points out that he wouldn’t be tempted to go solo because he follows success, not money. “Guy represents the best there is in the business, due to all that he is and all that he’s achieved.” Guy concludes: “If you want to develop your team, you have to set them free and allow them to spread their wings. At the same time starting a franchise gives you the chance to grow your organisation and build on your salon name.” your existing one but your franchisee’s clients need to be able to reach it.
• Buy the property – Do this if you can without involving any third parties. • Provide support – You need to be in a position to support your franchisee and their new business on a regular basis to make it work. 26 / hji.co.uk
• Do your homework – Speak to other franchisees and get their advice. Ensure the brand you will be representing as your business is successful and has potential to grow and expand. • Seek professional advice – Go to a franchise solicitor or franchise lawyer to ensure you make the right decision and you get a fair deal. You don’t want to be putting all the work in and be out of pocket. It’s a big financial risk to take but so worth it if you have the right franchise. • Discuss support – Arrange regular meetings with your franchise holder about any issues or changes you feel can be made to improve your business – whether it’s advertising they can do for your salon or training your staff. • Have your finances in place – You will never be able to calculate in advance exactly how much setting up a new franchise will cost. You need to make sure the franchise you invest in will provide you with the funds needed for your lifestyle. Be realistic about the profit it is likely to generate and identify what you need to make to cover your existing liabilities.
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BUSINESS
Secure Your Place on the High Street Beauty business expert Hellen Ward shares the simple steps you need to follow to survive the difficulties facing the Great British high street
T
he cookie-cutter style shops that look identical regardless of location signal the demise of our independent retailers. We are turning into a nation whose high streets look set to consist of coffee shops, phone shops and charity shops. In their midst will be a sprinkling of hair salons, nail salons and barbershops. We need diversity to ensure not all of our purchasing power is wielded by the mighty online retailers. In such challenging circumstances not all salons will survive and that is a fact. What will be the magic ingredient that will give your salon an advantage? There are rumours that big electrical manufacturers are looking to open salons because they know the service sector is relatively bullet proof compared to retail. My prediction is the independents will triumph over the chains as long as we concentrate on optimising our very special customer relationships.
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‘Fast food hair’ is price-point led and there will always be people shopping by price alone. We should ignore at our peril the clients who are increasingly willing to pay for a great service and a second to none customer user experience. It’s this demographic’s loyal custom that will prove to be the golden goose.
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Specialisation is something I’ve been focusing on for years because the more specialist you are, the higher the price you can charge. Think of surgeons, doctors and lawyers – those that command the highest price point have the most specific expertise and that can apply to the professional hairdressing industry too. 28 / hji.co.uk
3 5I`QUQ[M aW]Z ZMTI\QWV[PQX[ General data protection regulation (GDPR) isn’t applicable to the details we know in our heads about our clients. Remembering special aspects about people is at the core of what we do and in a faceless society it will have more resonance. The smart brands are capitalising on our client relationships because being close to our customer base is at the heart of all our transactions.
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Capitalise on your biggest strength – the long service of your educated team. You might appreciate it but if you forget to market your team it will be a missed opportunity.
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Salons are a haven for loyal clients and those in the know are looking to diversify with more hooks to increase that all important repeat visit. Asking clients about the services they receive elsewhere and looking to provide the service instead is the key to increasing that all important average spend without having to chase for new business.
Hellen Ward is co-founder of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa. She is beauty ambassador for the NHF/NBF and is an educator and lecturer. Go to hellenward.com for more information.
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MUM’S THE WORD The NHF/NBF reveals the rules and regulations you need to follow if you have a pregnant employee or new mother working in your salon
B
aby talk can get very complex when it comes to the law. If your employee announces she’s pregnant you need to make sure you’re up to speed with your rights and responsibilities as an employer. “Your first step will be to carry out a risk assessment as the law says you must do all you can to keep your pregnant employee safe in the workplace,” explains NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. Your employee should tell you about any medical advice she has received and you will need to take steps to protect her from workplace risks such as lifting heavy loads, standing for long periods and exposure to fumes, chemicals and products. The NHF/NBF has a health and safety toolkit that includes a risk assessment template for new and expectant mothers. Go to nhf.info/ H&Skit for more information. Employee’s antenatal rights “You must give your pregnant employee ‘reasonable’ paid time off for their antenatal appointments, including waiting and travel time,” explains Hilary. She adds: “If your employee is the partner of a pregnant woman, they
have the right to unpaid time off to go to two antenatal appointments lasting for up to six and a half hours each.”
returns to the workplace, advises Hilary. “This is to ensure there are no risks to the new mother or her baby if she is breastfeeding.” Understanding maternity leave Your employee has the right to return A new mother who works in a salon to the same position on the same terms must take a minimum of two and conditions as before if she weeks’ maternity leave has been on maternity leave after the baby is born. for 26 weeks or under. “She is entitled to “If she has been For less than 75p a day, take up to 52 weeks on maternity leave the NHF/NBF offers legal, for maternity for longer than employment and financial leave,” explains 26 weeks she is help, plus brilliant ideas for Hilary. “The entitled to return managing people and earliest maternity to the same job. If boosting your business. leave can start this isn’t practical, A detailed members-only is usually 11 she must be guide to maternity rights in weeks before the offered a similar the workplace will be week in which the job with terms available soon at baby is due. Your and conditions that nhf.info/guides. employee can work are as good as her up to the baby’s birth previous role,” if she wants to and is in explains Hilary. good health.” How can the NHF/NBF help? If your employee is not entitled NHF/NBF members benefit from to Statutory Maternity Pay, she may a 24/7 legal helpline for HR issues be eligible for a Maternity Allowance. (nhf.info/legal-advice). In addition, Visit nhf.info/maternity-pay for the friendly membership team more information. offers everyday employment advice including information on employees’ Returning to work pregnancy and maternity rights and You will need to carry out another annual leave calculations. risk assessment when your employee
Visit nhf.info/join for more information or call 01234 831 965. If you join the NHF/NBF before the end of May 2019 and quote HJM25 you will get £25 off your membership fee. 29 / hji.co.uk
BUSINESS PANEL
Should you tap into the male grooming market? The barbering and male grooming market was one of the biggest success stories of the British high street in 2018. Follow these simple tips to generate revenue from this growing sector in your salon
Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year “Our business was privileged to enter this market at the beginning and we’ve cemented ourselves as a key male grooming authority locally and nationally. We offer an experience rather than a basic service which gives us a loyal clientele. The regularity of visits, add-on services such as beard grooming and face profiling, as well as an increase in retail sales, have all contributed to this becoming a highly profitable revenue stream.”
Christian’s steps to success: ∞ Don’t underestimate the power of
knowledge. Invest in the team’s skills to stay ahead of the competition. ∞ Consider your audience and make your business a lifestyle choice as this will encourage loyalty and word of mouth advertising. ∞ Implement a marketing strategy that stays true to your values. Think outside of the box and invest in building brand awareness.
Name: Natalie Love Salon: Edward James London Award: Salon of the Year 1
Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2
“Men are embracing the salon/spa experience. The ‘in and out’ mentality of a barbershop is becoming a thing of the past. Statistics show male grooming is a multi-billion-pound industry with huge potential for further growth.”
“We have seen a steady increase in men taking more interest in their appearance and investing in male specific products. This has proven to be lucrative for the business. We are currently planning the development of a new floor in the salon that will be dedicated to barbering and the male grooming market. My son is training to be a hairdresser and he is showing particular interest in the barbering side of our industry. I have high expectations for what this will do for our business.”
Natalie’s steps to success: ∞ Men are more likely than women to
purchase grooming products online. Give men the option to purchase products and vouchers on your salon’s website. ∞ If you don’t have the space for a separate grooming area in the salon, consider what else you can do to make your service unique. Complimentary massage rituals, a post haircut gent’s cleanse and a glass of bubbles make our salon stand out from our competitors. ∞ Use your captive audience as even a predominantly female client base will have at least one male in mind that they could treat to an experience or gift.
30 / hji.co.uk
Phil’s steps to success ∞ Tailor your social strategy to the
male market – 32% of Instagram users are male so do not alienate them on your feed. ∞ Ensure you offer training that is relevant and your team know the latest men’s styles and cuts. ∞ Stay up-to-date on current male influencers. Your team should be familiar with celebrity trends without having to reach for their phones.
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design “Offering male grooming services means our brand is getting in front of more potential clients as behind every well-groomed man is often a woman. The industry price point for men needs to catch up though. Men expect to pay less but often want just as much time spent on them as their female counterparts who often pay up to twice as much.”
Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ Create promotions that encourage
existing female clients to bring the men in their lives into your salon. ∞ Offer more than a basic men’s cut. Hot towel treatments and wet shaves can help to bring new male clients to your salon. ∞ Stock professional male grooming products as this will help with client retention and will encourage male clients to return.
Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year “The increasing demand for male barbering and grooming has given the career of a hairdresser more variety. It also gives us the opportunity to turn over a bigger profit with little outlay. I feel the growth of the male grooming sector is a positive for our industry as men are spending a lot more time and money on their appearance. I believe that with the right marketing and training we can secure a regular clientele.”
Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ Keep up-to-date on men’s styles
and cuts and educate your team. ∞ Have a designated area in your salon which caters for your male clients. ∞ Have a variety of priced tiers based on the experience and expertise of your staff so you cover a wide range of men’s budgets.
Name: Mark Westerman Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award “Male clients will spend money on looking good so you need to stay ahead to profit from this industry. Keep an eye on what men look for from a service menu as it’s always changing. We’ve noticed a rise in the number of colour services men have in the salon and men spend more money on grooming. The client consultation and styling process can be an effective retailing tool, if used correctly. Men are visual and like to see results. Men don’t like the hard sell but once they buy, they tend to be loyal and will be more inquisitive next time around.”
Mark’s steps to success: ∞ Train your staff regularly with the
best education. ∞ We offer a more discreet area for men who like to be more private when it comes to grooming. ∞ Enter awards as this is the perfect platform to shout about your skill and creativity within a niche area.
Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year “The male grooming market has grown massively over the past few years. This has made us more aware that a short back and sides isn’t going to cut it any more with today’s image-conscious men. This has motivated us to give our stylists more education on short haircuts and intense clipper work so we can follow and anticipate upcoming male grooming trends.”
Salv’s steps to success: ∞ Stock a comprehensive range
of products in your salon that are suitable for your male clients. ∞ Promote beard trims and male-specific additional services in the salon. ∞ Use marketing to promote head massages and treatments for your male clients because they don’t just appeal to women – your male clients will enjoy pampering too.
31 / hji.co.uk
Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “The barbering industry is a great way to add extra income to your business. Men are much more aware of their image and want to look and feel as good as possible. Getting the male market right means increased clientele and a higher turnover for your business. The frequency of men’s visits gives your team a regular income and it’s a great way of retailing professional men’s grooming products to clients. Once a man finds a product that works for him, he’ll stick with it so you’ll benefit from repeat purchases. He’ll also stick with a barber or hairdresser who gets his style needs spot on too.”
Janet’s steps to success: ∞ Barbering is a real skill so invest
in training for your team. Men will often drop into the salon without an appointment so all your staff need to be skilled at men’s haircuts. ∞ Images of men’s cuts displayed in the window will encourage men to visit your salon. It’s crucial to make sure the images hit the mark – they must be stylish and on-trend. ∞ Have a great range of men’s products and magazines on offer and train your staff on how to communicate with male clients in the salon.
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MAKE YOUR CLIENTS SHINE Revlon Professional presents Color Excel by Revlonissimo – a new tone-on-tone range that will make ‘shine’ your client’s new favourite shade
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evlon Professional Color Excel by Revlonissimo offers the ultimate versatility with 58 ammonia-free formulas that will cover every client’s needs. The tone-on-tone range allows hair professionals to enhance a client’s unique radiance with reliable, even colour, superior care results and a multi-reflective shine that will bring any look to life. The tone-on-tone shades Revlon Professional Color Excel by Revlonissimo has 54 low commitment tone-on-tone shades that will enhance or refresh natural-looking colour and will discreetly blend into your client’s grey hair. The range includes iridescent blonde and gold shades, plus seven formulas with C5 technology to give even more vibrant and long-lasting reds, coppers and burgundies. It’s easy to give your clients vibrant shine with the 000 clear shade for personalised colour or to get a magnificent hypergloss finish without adding any colour at all. The playful tones The new range contains four daring and edgy shades that are perfect for correcting undesired tones and the
results will last for up to 20 washes. Use the four shades to create the latest trends and mix them with new shade 000 Clear to give your clients a customised pastel effect. A colour for everyone Revlon Professional has introduced six exclusive new services that use specific techniques to attract every colour client with low commitment colour. The services are designed to enhance a client’s beauty with either chic and natural shades or bold ones for a more edgy or trendy look.
Revlon Professional Color Excel by Revlonissimo gives beautiful and even colour with a choice of 58 shades that are smooth and silky with multi-reflective shine.
32 / hji.co.uk
The colour, care and shine benefits • There are new shades to match other Revlonissimo colours. • The range has a pleasant new fragrance. • The creamy texture makes it easy to apply. • It is formulated to give the benefits of a hair mask. • Color Excel has an exclusive care complex. • It contains cotton extract, which is known to protect the hair fibre. • Color Excel gives beautiful and even colour that is smooth and silky with a multi-reflective shine.
Spread the word on social media Share the bold and glossy salon looks you create in the salon to prove shine is the new colour and get your clients excited about a vibrant hypergloss finish. Use the hashtags #ShineIsTheNewColor and #MakesYouShine on your social media channels.
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For more information about Revlon Professional Color Excel by Revlonissimo go to revlonprofessional.com. 33 / hji.co.uk
BUSINESS
The Debate
Should Salons be VAT Registered? Two salon owners discuss the pros and cons of small businesses having to pay VAT No
“Avoiding VAT with ‘rent a chair’ is a short sighted way of running a salon.”
“There’s little motivation for salons to grow to the point where VAT hits 20%.”
“When you run any kind of business, paying tax is one of your responsibilities. We must pay it so our country can run effectively. It goes towards essential public services such as the NHS and everything we rely on and take for granted until we need them. I am completely happy to pay my VAT because I believe it’s always important to work with integrity and honesty. As a salon owner, you are a role model for other members of staff and if you want to create a respectful and honest workforce it needs to start at the top. In saying this it’s essential to note that around 50% of the turnover in our industry goes to pay wages and therefore cannot be claimed back in the VAT calculation. Purchases are usually around only 12% to 15% of turnover and this is almost all that we can reclaim. It would be a huge help to hairdressing if we had some kind of concession for being such a labour-intensive industry that contributes billions of pounds to the UK economy. I believe that avoiding VAT by creating ‘rent a chair’ salons or not declaring your true turnover is a very short sighted and unfair way of running a business. These salons are not contributing to the burden of running this country, so I am happy to pay VAT but I think it is only fair that we should all be on a level playing field. Finally, I have three hair and beauty salons and pay approximately £80,000 per annum in VAT. I am proud to say my company is completely honest and I can sleep in bed at night by using my energy to move the business forward and not worrying about a knock on the door from the VAT man.”
“I’ve spoken to over 60 salons recently that are not VAT registered. As a VAT registered salon myself I found it interesting, so I decided to question further. There is a general feeling that there is little motivation for small businesses to put in the effort to grow when as soon as the turnover hits £85,000 they have to increase their prices by 20%. In an industry that is extremely labour intensive, stylists are 95% of the finished product and the wage bill is on average 50% of turnover so I can see why salons would feel frustrated with the current VAT system. In effect the workers are attracting tax twice – once on their income and then the VAT. It is not just our industry that has taken this attitude. I took the time to speak to some chartered accountants and learned that beauty salons, restaurants, joiners, builders, plumbers and many more trades and small enterprises felt the same. Adding 20% to your pricing does not allow for competitive advantage so a fairer system would be to permit salons to take off their wage bill before calculating VAT. All businesses would pay VAT but labour-intensive industries such as salons would pay 5% VAT. There needs to be an incentive to help retail bricks and mortar businesses. The Government wants to drive up the minimum wage but the current VAT system doesn’t help businesses that employ people at the minimum wage level. Most salons would rather pay higher wages than give it up as VAT. Our economy needs to grow from the bottom up so as a society we should be helping salon businesses that have the potential to grow.”
Janet Maitland, managing director at Janet Maitland Hair Excellence, Durham
Adrian Allen, salon owner at Adrian Allen Salon and Adrian Allen Academy, Rotherham
34 / hji.co.uk
SHUTTERSTOCK
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BUDGET: £40-£100
Jaguar Relax Polished Slice Description: This prestyle relaxed polished slice is the ideal starter pair of scissors. The style is made from durable steel and both blades are honed for slice cutting. It has an ergonomic handle for relaxed and strain-free work. Website: randrocket.co Price: £42.99+VAT
AMA Silhouette Black Description: Made from Japanese steel, this is the perfect entry level for students. It is sleek and lightweight for the stylist who wants to stand out but also wants comfort and a great cut at an inexpensive price. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £45+VAT
Kyoto Sprint Description: The hollow ground convex blades provide crisp precision cutting and the scissors are forged from tempered high carbon steel for hard-working durability. These super value scissors are ideal for all styles of cutting. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £57.50+VAT
AMA G-One Black Description: The German-made semioffset AMA G-One Black has convex hollowground blades and fully integrated dHg ground and polished edges, which combine to give a very smooth action for slicing and cutting. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £70+VAT
Kyoto Rose Description: The eyecatching Kyoto Rose has the toughness of forged high carbon steel with a rose gold titanium casing. The wide dovetail finger rest naturally hugs your little finger and lifts the tips to give extra support for longer sizes. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £80+VAT
Jaguar Timeless Black Description: The outer blade transitions to the handle shank with a forged finger rest. An offset ergonomic design is hidden and the black metallic coating, hollow grinding and honing of both blades gives longlasting sharpness and good slice cutting. Website: randrocket.co Price: £85+VAT
AMA Jian Description: These AUS8 stainless steel hollow ground forged scissors have hone line convex blades. There is a mirror finish and a brushed section for a stable finger position with a flat adjustable screw and removable finger rest. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £85+VAT
AMA Tao Description: AMA Tao is forged from Japanese 440c cobalt steel. It has a convex edge and sword shape blade for all styles of cutting, including slide cutting, on wet or dry hair. It has a flat adjustable screw and static finger rest. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £85+VAT
Tondeo Spider Description: The Spider is fresh, versatile and can be used for all hairdressing and cutting techniques. With reliability and precision at its heart, the shape and function is available in an offset or a classic shape. It is available in the 5.5in size. Website: randrocket.co Price: £89+VAT
AMA Tao Swivel Description: The Japanese 440c cobalt steel design with a convex edge and sword shape blade is perfect for all cutting, including slide cutting on wet or dry hair. The handle has a swivel thumb ring for comfort and flexibility. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £90+VAT
37 / hji.co.uk
BUDGET: £100-£200
T H E U LT I M AT E S C I S S O R S G U I D E
Kobe Apollo Description: An ergonomic shape and fixed finger rest is coupled with convex slicing blades and a smooth action. It is available in a left-handed variant and is supplied with a case and four finger-ring inserts. Website: coolblades.co.uk Price: £129
Kobe Apollo Thinner Description: Ergonomic handle design, convex blades and a smooth action combine in this 40-toothed thinner. It is available in a left-handed option and comes with a scissors case, lifetime guarantee and two years’ free servicing. Website: coolblades.co.uk Price: £129
Osaka Cobalt Master Description: This introduction to cobalt uses the handle shape of the Kyoto Sprint and Rose. It offers the next level of precision cutting for those who want to step up their cutting skills. It is available in 6, 6.5 and 7in sizes (right handed and left handed). Website: dowa-international.com Price: £137.50+VAT
Kobe Lunar Description: The angled thumb ring and offset handles lower the arm to make cutting less tiring and it features fully convex slicing blades. It is available in a left-handed option and is supplied with a case and four finger-ring inserts. Website: coolblades.co.uk Price: £139
Kobe Lunar Thinner Description: An angled thumb ring, offset handles and convex and hollow-ground blades give a comfortable and perfect cut. It is available in right or left-handed options. It has a case, lifetime guarantee and two years’ free servicing. Website: coolblades.co.uk Price: £139
Kobe Galaxy Description: Classic black finish and extra-long sword blades combine for a design that’s all about power and high performance. It comes in five sizes – 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5 or 7in and it is supplied with a grey, leatherette scissors case. Website: coolblades.co.uk Price: £149
Passion Phantom Texturiser Description: The design of the 15 teeth means you can increase the 20% cut volume by increasing the cutting pressure of your hand. It creates natural texture to break up static shapes and to create lift and movement. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £150+VAT
Passion Zeta Description: All winning features of past and present models are crammed into the Passion Zeta. It has ergonomic crane handles, a smooth ball bearing screw system and precision cutting, powerful sword blades. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £155+VAT
Jaguar CJ4 Plus Description: The long and stable blade with super slice cutting can be used for every hairdressing and cutting technique. The Jaguar CJ4 Plus is very eye-catching with a high polished finish and is available in 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5 and 7in sizes. Website: randrocket.co Price: £165+VAT
Tondeo Butler Description: Those who swear by classics will love the new Butler. The classic design is matched with the latest technology. These 6.5in scissors are perfect for fine contours due to the pointed blades. Butler is also the ideal choice for barbers. Website: randrocket.co Price: £175+VAT
38 / hji.co.uk
SHUTTERSTOCK
Osaka Super Ergo Description: This was one of the first pairs of scissors to place ergonomics at the heart of its design. The grip shape, power amplifying blade and perfect weight balance give these scissors a place in every stylist’s scissors pouch. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £110+VAT
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BUDGET: £200-£498
Bamboo Hairdressing Scissors Description: These scissors represent design and performance. With 5.5, 6 and 6.5in blades, this style increases confidence for progressive techniques. It feels assured with a smooth and accurate cutting action. Website: scissorhands.co.uk Price: £216.70
Passion Cobalt Raptor Description: The weighted blade creates the kind of cutting power that is usually lacking with cobalt as it’s often seen as delicate or high maintenance. These scissors are forged from VG10 cobalt and make light work of cutting thick hair. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £220+VAT
Passion Cobalt Viper Description: The forged ATS314 cobalt alloy is perfect for a razor sharp performance with hollow ground straight blades ideal for precision cutting. The ergonomically designed handle will cushion your thumb whilst being responsive for a rapid power transfer to the blade tips. Website: dowa-international.com Price: £220+VAT
Jaguar Xenox Titan Description: These scissors provide protection against a nickel allergy with a gloss titanium coating. The design offers outstanding sharpness and results, plus the convex blades ensure accurate cutting lines. It is available in 5.5 and 6in sizes. Website: randrocket.co Price: £289+VAT
Tondeo 7even Description: Tondeo 7even features the best quality and extreme durability. It is excellent for precise cuts and gentle fine tuning. The ergonomic offset shape with forged finger rest provides optimal control and it is available in a 7in size. Website: randrocket.co Price: £299+VAT
Joewell C-Series Description: The C Series has a straight line and semi-offset design on the handle for a natural fit. It gives optimum spacing between the thumb and ring finger when closed. The semi convex blade maintains soft and sharp cutting. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £300+VAT
Joewell Cobalt Black Offset Description: It is crafted from cobalt base alloy CBA1 for more durability. It has the standard Joewell blade, precision flat screw and removable finger rest. The material is virtually nickel-free to prevent metal allergies. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £355+VAT
Rose Soft Cut Description: Rose Soft Cut is designed to cut very short ends and to blend shorter to longer and evaporate/thin the bulk and thickness of hair with no blade marks. It is the best thinning and blending tool in a hairdresser’s toolkit. Website: scissorhands.co.uk Price: £403.70
Joewell FX Pro Gold Description: The 3D handle and twisted thumb ring give a more comfortable cutting position. A top side sword blade and back side flat blade enables a stable operation and delivers more cutting power to the points of the blades. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £408+VAT
Joewell SNT 40 Description: This is an innovation in volume control. The 40 teeth are designed to cut one strand of hair per tooth and per cut. This reduces damage to the hair and gives complete control. The cut ratio is less than 5%. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £483+VAT
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BUDGET: £499+
T H E U LT I M AT E S C I S S O R S G U I D E
SHUTTERSTOCK
Jaguar Vision Description: Superior metalwork meets perfection. Made from micro-carbide steel unique to Jaguar, Vision delivers permanent sharpness and extreme durability with high-end blade precision. It is ideal for advanced cutting with two years’ free servicing. Website: randrocket.co Price: £499+VAT
KASHO Silver Black Description: It has a tension-adjustable ratchet flat screw system, ultimate edge sharpness, camel back and removable finger rest. It has a cool sheen with a diamond-like carbon coating and a strong skin to protect the blade. Website: kashoscissors.co.uk Price: From £525+VAT
Joewell Supreme SPM BT Description: This design features Joewell’s most durable and hard-wearing blades. It has blade strength, excellent wear resistance and higher corrosion resistance. Other features include a 3D handle and a silicone rubber finger rest. Website: gebetterton.co.uk Price: £565+VAT
Optima EVO Description: These volumising, layering and texturising scissors replace the need for traditional layer cutting and manual point cutting with a solid blade. The Japanese VG10 steel and hand-finished convex blade offer comfort when layering making it a game-changer. Website: scissorhands.co.uk Price: £657
Tondeo Earl Description: Sharpness meets precision with curved blades and an angled thumb ring. The integrated conblade cutting edge with its nano-serration on the tip provides an excellent cutting sensation and has been developed by barbers. Website: randrocket.co Price: £750+VAT
KASHO Sagano Description: KASHO Sagano has finely honed blades and ergonomic shaping with a camel back, offset handle and curved finger rest. The Damascus ball bearing system integrated with flat screw technology means each cut is smooth and powerful. Website: kashoscissors.co.uk Price: From £757+VAT
Jaguar The Carecut Description: Electronically controlled and gently heated, these scissors reseal ends and maintain moisure in the hair. The Carecut cares for the hair and promotes strength and durability so clients can enjoy the strength and quality over a longer time period. Website: randrocket.co Price: £799+VAT
KASHO Millennium Description: This precision tool is created from powdered steel fused under pressure, creating sharpness and unmatched durability. Each cut is easy thanks to the patented closed disc operation system. Each blade is as flawless as it is strong. Website: kashoscissors.co.uk Price: From £895+VAT
The Croc Description: These precision scissors are forged from Hitatchi ATS 314 with 10 radial teeth topped by 10 precisely cut grooves and a ‘tulip bulb’ shaped base. Customers rate this ultimate texturiser 10/10 so it should be part of your kit. Website: spencerscissors.co.uk Price: POA
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ROBERT KIRBY
INTERIORS
MISTAKES HAIRDRESSERS MAKE WHEN DESIGNING A SALON The designers behind the biggest furniture brands reveal the faux pas they see most regularly. It’s easy to avoid them if you follow HJ’s dos and don’ts…
S DO look at the salon through a client’s eyes
W NEED TO KNOW:
“There are so many free tips on websites and Pinterest. You can also contact a salon designer or a supplier and they will give you advice for free. Any salon who contacts us will be sent books on salon design, ideas, past projects and colour schemes as standard. Plus, all our salon designs come with 3D drawings which contain the owner’s existing floor and wall colours so they
can visualise how their new additions will look at no extra cost. It’s not just design advice that we offer at Inspiring Salons. We give project finance advice for free too. Running out of cash during a project is a common mistake and usually means the salon downgrades its furniture. This is a huge error because after the refit, it is the furniture your clients will notice over the style of the floor. In most cases not only have we saved client’s money on furniture but also thousands of pounds on 45 / hji.co.uk
• A salon should be a minimum of 4m wide – any smaller and it becomes impractical. A small or narrow salon can feel intimate and boutique-like but it can also become overcrowded and noisy.
ROSE AND WILD
X DO ask for free help and advice
How to design a small or narrow salon THE STATION HAIR AND BEAUTY
“It’s so important to look at your salon through a customer’s eyes. Squeezing in too many styling positions is the most regular faux pas I come across. It makes your salon look cramped and clients won’t respond well to the intense atmosphere this can create. Consider how the salon is going to be laid out and your client’s journey. For example, some salons don’t set aside a speciallydesignated consultation area. Personally, I feel chatting through a mirror in the middle of a busy salon can be awkward, especially for new clients but there are lots of other options that can be explored to create a private area. It’s also important to use flattering lighting and mirrors for your styling stations. You want your client to see themselves in the best light possible. Heavy downlighting might make your salon look great but it won’t make your client look good. Another mistake I always notice is salons view the retail shelf as an after-thought. Professional products will maintain your clients’ look and the aftercare is an integral part of their visit. The retail shelf should be a well-thought out part of your salon design.” Albert Ewan, owner, Albert Ewan Design
building costs and the time of the build because of the free advice we offer. Also, our design service is 100% refundable. Any salon owner wishing to undertake a salon project, no matter how large or small, should contact any salon design company and make use of the free advice that is out there.” Mike Cooper, owner Inspiring Salons Ltd and exclusive Ayala designer
• Make sure mirrors are offset to avoid a tunnelling effect. • Lay the floor tiles in a diamond pattern as it will make the salon look wider. • Use wide mirrors to give an illusion of space. • Make the back wall of the salon a feature with colour, texture and pictures as this will increase the feeling of length.
INTERIORS T NEED TO KNOW:
How to design a large or open plan salon
• Decide how many styling and wash units you need and make the floor plan logical and effective as a working area as you don’t want the open plan to look haphazard. • Be mindful of your choice of floor surfaces. You may need to combat high levels of noise. • Use colour and different textures to create distinct zones and the right shade will bring warmth and intimacy to areas that need it.
• Don’t overfill the salon – remember less is more.
RUSH
• Use plinths or different floor levels to define separate areas.
“I find salons don’t see the merit of working with a salon designer when refitting their salon. Working with a designer allows salon owners to see what will fit and ensures everything is to scale. The benefits of working with a salon designer are not just down to the placement of styling stations. Measuring the floor space is just a small part of the process. The key starting point is asking the correct questions and understanding the
business profile and demographic. We ask questions such as: how many people are coming into the salon, are you projected to grow your client base in the next couple of years and by how much, and describe your client and their expectations of their salon journey. This will enable the design to reflect the salon’s vision and also their client base. Salons will be able to visualise what will work best within the space provided. Working with an experienced designer will put you on the road to success.” Terry Bunn, operations director and salon designer, Laceys and Maletti H&CO
TAKARA
S DO work with a specialist designer
X DON’T neglect your salon floor plan when it comes to plumbing “Salons often plan the location of their styling stations and backwash equipment too far away from the water supply. I see this problem a lot and it’s so easy to avoid. Make sure you get a professional plumber to plan and install the supply and boiler based on your salon plan. If the supply is too far away or inconveniently located, it can cause water pressure and temperature control issues. This is the last thing you want or need in a busy salon. It also increases the probability of leaks and makes it more difficult to locate and fix the problem. Always get a professional plumber to install a boiler based on your salon plan.” Tetsuya Ito, chief designer, Takara Belmont 46 / hji.co.uk
Give time to space, master stillness. Zen Series.
INTERIORS BLUE TIT
3 Final Touches Make sure you stand out from your competitors by adding these small touches that will make a big difference
1 Feature flowers and foliage. Break up clinical white walls or block colour with succulents (ideal for salons as they love humid conditions). Fresh flowers are a lovely touch in the waiting or reception area but won’t thrive on styling stations or near the backwash area.
2
“Many salons focus too much on the working area such as the styling units, styling chairs and backwash area. Of course, all of these elements are integral to your salon and the way it works but often the reception or waiting area is neglected when a layout is being put together. It’s often sacrificed for an extra wash basin, wider, comfier styling chairs or more cupboard storage space. Your salon waiting area should not be overlooked because the impression your client has when entering your salon could determine the relationship they have with you going forwards. If it is a new
client, you don’t want them to feel intimidated as they may just walk back out again. If it is a returning client, you want their positive salon-experience to begin as soon as they enter the door at every appointment because they deserve it. When planning your salon layout, ensure you leave plenty of space for comfortable seating and room to breathe and relax. You could include luxurious extras such as a drinks machine or a coat stand. Don’t forget an inviting area to showcase your retail offering. A beautiful waiting area is the first area that every customer will encounter so make it memorable for all the right reasons. Lee Hamilton, furniture manager, Salon Supplies
3 Create an interesting art or design feature. Clients will remember your salon if you have a must-see piece of art or interior design that will encourage conversation both on and offline.
KIREN LEEDS
GLITCH SALON, JFK, HARI’S
Add your personality. Place objects that represent you as a salon and a business around the space to promote your brand’s identity.
ST DON’T forget about the waiting area
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INTERIORS
PART OF THE FURNITURE
From a backwash designed for scalp facials to space-saving styling stations, here are the new pieces of must-have furniture S Take a seat
S Backwash beauty
The Maletti Eden Plus cares for the health of your client’s hair as well as their scalp. The unit offers clients a hot steam sauna, which gives the hair and scalp the benefits of hot steam while the client can enjoy a relaxing experience in a reclining massage chair. Price available on application.
X Kids zone
A chair that’s specifically made for kids will make you popular with your younger clients. AYALA’s new kids collection, called No Adults Allowed, features the Kid Lux Styling Chair. It comes with a safety belt, padded seat and the option to have coloured buttons or Swarovski crystals. It is available in 56 upholstery shades. From £205+VAT
The Pietranera Claire Styling Chair is new for 2019. It is a classic that can be matched to any salon interior. The back comes in a classic walnut wood, the chair top is available in a range of colours, as well as special vinyl shades for a small supplement and the base is available in a disc or star shape. List price £942 (Salon Supplies offer price £848).
X Stylish station
A hard-working styling station is a must for keeping busy salons tidy. Enter Muster of Italy’s Flora Working Station. Flora is part of the Lignum range and features a natural wood top, pull out dryer holder and storage facility within the shelf. RRP £2650+VAT (discounts available on multiple orders from Moda).
S Retro-mania
Takara Belmont’s Vintage Alt Series offers stylish salon chairs with a retro vibe. The furniture can be customised with six upholstery colours and fabrics with vintage looks. Foot-rest options come in wood, black metal or antique finishes, as well as a 360° lockable rotation and a total of six bases. Prices range from £1,500 - £1,710 (additional options are available).
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Scalp Care is the New Skincare Inspired by luxury skincare, a rejuvenating scalp and haircare routine has launched from Goldwell that’s set to change the way you look after your client in the salon
D
id you know the scalp ages six times faster than the skin on your face and 12 times faster than the skin on your body? It’s time to educate your clients about treating the scalp in the same way as their skin with a dedicated exfoliating, cleansing and priming routine. Now you can offer your clients a luxury scalp facial with Goldwell’s Kerasilk Revitalize range. The unique products help to protect and counteract the key signs of scalp ageing to reveal beautiful and healthy hair. This is all thanks to the range’s star ingredient – ectoin. A natural protector, it helps to shield the scalp from oxidative stress which is the main culprit of scalp ageing. Caused by external factors such as UV rays, pollution, chemical stress and extreme changes in temperature, oxidative stress can make the scalp dehydrated and imbalanced, which can lead to thinning and weak hair. Kerasilk Revitalize fights back and helps keep the scalp healthy by protecting it from these elements. The in-salon scalp facial Give your clients a unique experience that begins with a four-step professional service in the salon followed by maintenance at home.
Start with the Exfoliating Pre-Wash to deeply 1 cleanse and invigorate the scalp. The jojoba-derived exfoliants help to gently rid the scalp of unwanted debris. cleanse hair with the Nourishing Shampoo 2 Next, which contains the highest levels of ectoin. Follow the cleansing step with the Rebalancing 3 Scalp Foundation. It helps prepare the scalp by strengthening the skin’s natural protective layer. Finally, apply a targeted serum (choose from 4 Nourishing, Detoxifying or Redensifying) to make the service truly bespoke and personalised for your client. They can take home their bespoke products to prolong the results.
The key ingredients The three targeted shampoos and serums all contain the innovative Keratransform Technology which combines silk for luxurious colour protection and keratin for structural support. The third advanced ingredient, inspired by skincare science, delivers specialised results specific to each bespoke product. Let’s discover the power of the three advanced ingredients… • Grapeseed hydrates dry, sensitive scalps and is found within the Nourishing Shampoo and Serum. • Red algae is known for its purifying properties. It effectively removes dandruff and prevents an oily scalp which is why it’s used in the Detoxifying Shampoo and Serum. • Ginseng is loved for its strengthening power. It helps to densify the hair and is the star ingredient in the Redensifying Shampoo and Serum.
For more information about Kerasilk visit goldwell.co.uk or call 03301 239 530.
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INTERVIEW
HJ Exclusive
ghd HJ speaks to ghd’s managing director Antony Strianese and Rush’s co-founder Stell Andrew about the duo’s new partnership where clients can learn how to use ghd oracle and purchase it exclusively at Rush salons from 1 May
The revolutionary new product – Antony Strianese at ghd Why has ghd decided to expand its curling category? Curls continue to be a huge trend and with the launch of ghd oracle, our aim is to help consumers make their hair styling journey as streamlined and easy as possible. Many consumers struggle to curl their hair but with the new ghd oracle, curling is now as easy as straightening. It is the perfect tool for time-poor clients following professional training in the salon. Why have you chosen to stock ghd oracle exclusively in professional hair salons? The role of the salon channel is pivotal for ghd and remains at the heart of the business. This goes hand-in-hand with education, which is central to the launch of ghd oracle. With this tool you can create a multitude of curls and waves just by a slight tilt of the hand and the speed at which the tool glides over the hair. It is crucial that we arm our consumers, via our professional stylists in salon, with all the information and knowledge they need so they can create these looks with ease and do so confidently.
Can you tell us about your variety of curls and waves and we partnership with Rush? are excited to watch this unfold We are thrilled to be working with throughout May, when ghd oracle Rush as our UK exclusive partner to launches. The stylists really are the launch our most exciting innovation oracle in how to get the best out of to date. Rush this tool. complies to a salon-centric focus What is the “After the four-month that matches the plan exclusivity period with long-term ghd strategy. Rush for ghd oracle? Rush, we look forward After the salons already use, love and endorse four-month to inviting additional the ghd range with exclusivity period salons to be part of the with Rush, we look proven success and growth. Rush forward to inviting oracle journey.” will be providing additional salons to complimentary be part of the ghd Antony Strianese, tutorials for all oracle journey. We ghd managing director consumers so they hope through this can learn how to use salon-only the tool before purchase. If they want method we will empower our to pop back for a further session, professional salon partners to feel Rush will be happy to facilitate. more comfortable recommending professional products and How will you create a buzz around encouraging sales as an essential part ghd oracle for the launch? of the salon aftercare service. We We want the stylists to be the key know professional salon endorsement drivers and power holders for this is key for clients and they trust and launch. Their hands and knowledge value the opinions of the hairdressers are the tools for educating, creating in their lives. Salon business is in our content, showing how to create a DNA and something we cherish. 54 / hji.co.uk
INTERVIEW
Rush The pre-launch exclusive Rush will have the exclusive ghd oracle pre-launch for four months starting from 1 May.
The exclusive salon partner – Stell Andrew at Rush Why were you chosen to be the How will you promote ghd oracle exclusive salon partner? in your salons during the exclusive We were chosen because of our launch period? passion and drive for education for We’ll use a multi-channel approach both our staff and the consumer. for promotion using email Our status as a marketing and nationwide growing our social media “Our stylists will show brand, and our channels. When client consultation clients visit our clients how to use process is a key salons, they will ghd oracle and we factor at Rush see ghd oracle will ensure they feel that drives in high messaging in volumes the window and comfortable using it of new clients throughout the before leaving every week. salon. We have also planned some salon the salon.” What will this window takeovers to partnership allow ghd oracle to Stell Andrew, mean for Rush? become the Rush co-founder This exclusive hero product. partnership supports our brand awareness Can you tell us about the training strategy. It allows us to work closely you’ll be giving stylists ahead of with ghd (the leading experts in the launch? this field) and will attract both new We’ve worked closely with the ghd and regular clients into Rush salons education team, and our education throughout the UK. Rush has been team in our Covent Garden working with ghd for a long time and academy has held small group it’s a very proud moment for me to see training sessions. This has allowed our salons be part of this exclusive key stylists and managers from each launch in the UK. salon to take part in training and ask 55 / hji.co.uk
questions, which has kept the training very personalised. How will your team educate clients during a salon appointment? Clients will be taken through a personalised consultation process, where stylists will talk to them about how they wear their hair on a daily basis and what type of curls they like to achieve. Our stylists will show clients how to use ghd oracle to achieve the desired look and they will be given the chance to try the tool themselves to ensure they feel comfortable before leaving the salon. Why is it important for new innovations to be stocked exclusively in professional salons? New innovation to the market brings a wave of excitement to both clients and hairdressers but without the in-salon consultation, there will be confusion on how to use ghd oracle correctly. The online hair market is big business but you can’t buy expert knowledge online for a client’s specific hair type or lifestyle – all of these elements play a part in making any innovation in-salon a success.
FASHION
About a Girl Female beauty, power and strength
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FASHION
“I wanted this collection to be innocent with a natural beauty while still showing the power and strength of women everywhere.� Thomas Hills Hair: Thomas Hills Make-up: Jo Sugar Styling: Bernard Connolly Photography: Richard Miles 57 / hji.co.uk
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FASHION
H S A CL
Vibrant colours, prints and textu
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FASHION
“CLASH is a spring/summer campaign that delivers dynamic British youthfulness. It fuses colour and cuts together using modern techniques that evoke desirable, yet wearable hair. High end luxury fashion creates an up-tempo clash of strong, bold and identifiable vibrant colours, prints and textures.� Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador
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FASHION
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FASHION
Hair: Mark Leeson at Mark Leeson Salons for Revlon Professional Make-up: Lans Nguyen-Grealis Styling: M&R Photography: Richard Miles
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THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING
EARLYBIRD TICKETS NOW Save 15% and book your earlybird* entrance tickets online now at www.salonshow.co.uk/HJMay or call the ticket hotline on 0844 581 4915 (UK) or (0)121 796 6291 (Overseas). *Earlybird rates will expire on 30.5.19
FASHION
xtures, te ir a h e s r e Div colours and styles
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FASHION
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FASHION
“This collection taps into the desires of today’s consumer. The looks represent the diversity of hair textures, colours and styles. Plus, the flawless finish puts the stylist in the creative driving seat to deliver desirable results time and time again.” OSMO Creative Team
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FASHION
Hair: OSMO Creative Team Make-up: Paula Maxwell Styling: Joey Bevan Photography: Tony Le-Britton
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FASHION
“The Final Chapter is relaxed but seductive with colours and cuts that are not merely contemporary, but imperfect, or rather, perfectly imperfect.” Leonardo Rizzo, Sanrizz international creative director for Alter Ego Italy
THE FINAL CHAPTER Whimsical, relaxed and seductive looks
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FASHION
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FASHION
Hair: Leonardo Rizzo, Sharon Cox, Mario Farinelli and the Alter Ego Italy Akademìa Artistic Team Make-up: Silvia dell’Orto Styling: Emanuela Mari at Day Dream Photography: Andrew O’Toole
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3 SHOWS, 3 VENUES Register your interest for free tickets at www.hjlive.co.uk
EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020
PRESENTED BY
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
A CURLING REVOLUTION ghd is unveiling the world’s first professional tool that can create endless curls in one simple stroke – say hello to ghd oracle
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
g
hd oracle is landing on UK shores exclusively at Rush salons from 1 May. The professional tool can be used to create endless curls in one simple stroke. It uses breakthrough curl-zone technology, which combines a unique shape, the styling power of heat and the setting effect of cooling to create a variety of curls for all hair types in one movement. Regardless of which section of hair you are styling or the angle you are using, the hair will always pass through the same U shape for the perfect curl effect with ease. By tilting ghd oracle at slightly different angles you can create a variety of different curls and waves for your clients, from loose, beachy waves to a more uniform curl.
Discover the technology behind ghd oracle: • Optimum temperature of 185°C Four ceramic heater plates heat hair to the optimum styling temperature of 185°C for healthier styling and ultimate frizz-free curling results. • Curl-zone
The unique patented curl-zone cools hair quickly to set the curl in place.
• Unique U shape
Creates the perfect tension to form curls on all hair types and allows for bi-directional styling (easy to use in both hands).
Did you know? It’s taken six years to develop ghd oracle with £5.2m worth of investment.
Educate clients in the salon “We’ve worked closely with our Cambridge research and development laboratories over many years to create something truly innovative in the curl market, which will allow our salons to help clients create their desired texture at home. With ghd oracle, hairdressers have exclusive access to a ground-breaking new piece of technology. It allows them to educate their clients and create a really exciting retail opportunity in the salon.” Jeroen Temmerman, ghd’s CEO
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GET THE LOOK
CURLS ALLOWED From loose and beachy waves at Chanel to a uniform curl at Temperley London, this season’s hottest looks can be recreated in a flash with the new ghd oracle. Rush’s academy manager Adam Bryant shares his tips for giving clients runway-ready hair at home Curling made easy in the salon and at-home ghd oracle is a ground-breaking curling tool that you can educate clients on how to use at-home. It is perfect for customers who struggle to curl their hair themselves as it is designed to achieve styles quickly and easily. It uses patented curl-zone technology, a unique shape and a cooling setting to create a variety of curls for all hair types in just one stroke. No matter which section clients are styling, the hair will always pass through the same U shape for the perfect curl.
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Curling tips Guide clients on sectioning, rotation and simple angles with the ghd oracle – try together while in the salon to give them the confidence to self-style at home. Once the basics are covered, tilting the tool at slightly different angles and changing the speed gives the chance to tailor the final curl to the client’s personal preference. 76 / hji.co.uk
GET THE LOOK
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FASHION
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FASHION
NUDE A classic never goes out of style
“The inspiration behind this collection is the monochromatic colour – nude. It’s the perfect base to enhance even the smallest of details. Nude is elegant, classy, neutral and makes everything iridescent.” milk_shake Creative Direction Hair Team
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FASHION
Hair: milk_shake Creative Direction Hair Team, including Andrea Brasola, Paolo Venzo, Diego Avellini, Carmine Spartano, Xandra Pardo, Hugo Ferreira, Nicolas James and the z.one Concept Education Team Photography: Kamil Strudzinski
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Advice for your Junior Self
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PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS
Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
SPONSORED BY
Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media
FASHION
Bring striking colours to life
PEEKABOO 84 / hji.co.uk
FASHION
“This collection is inspired by women’s empowerment and the ‘Me Too’ movement. The statement colours and cuts aren’t trying to be sexy – they are about finding power in their individual beauty. The hairstyles were inspired by the Artful Dodger and the fresh vibrant colours give the looks a modern twist.” Gina Conway
Hair: Gina Conway Make-up: Jo Sugar Styling: Lamis Khamis Photography: Desmond Murray 85 / hji.co.uk
IT’S EASIER THAN EVER TO ENTER
HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards is on the hunt for those of you who are making waves within your business and ultimately changing the landscape of our industry for the benefit of everyone This year, we’ve streamlined the entry process and introduced a number of new categories to make it even simpler for you and your colleagues to enter.
Classic categories with a twist The criteria for three of this year’s core categories have been updated to ensure they suit the way you and your business works in 2019. Go to hji.co.uk/bhba for more details. *Customer Service Award
APPLY ONLINE All entries for 2019 must be submitted online via our website hji.co.uk/bhba. Please note postal entries will not be accepted to ensure the judging process is fair for all.
*Marketing Campaign *Male Grooming Salon/Barber Shop of the Year
BRING YOUR ENTRY TO LIFE We are providing all entrants with the option to supply a short video (up to 90 seconds max) explaining why you think you or your salon should win your award category. Please note this is compulsory for anyone wishing to enter the Social Stylist category.
New category alert! Social Stylist Are you a whizz at creating hype around your latest Instagram -,010ċ 0 6,2/ &+ ,5 Ö,,!"! 4&1% direct messages from followers wanting you to work your hair magic? This award is for the stylist with the best online presence and strategy that translates and attracts clients to their business.
HJ’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS ENTER ONLINE NOW at hji.co.uk/bhba
PRESENTS THE
BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS
ENTER ONLINE NOW www.hji.co.uk/bhba
DEADLINE: FRIDAY 14 JUNE 2019 AT 5PM ENTRY ENQUIRIES: Contact Becca Painter on 020 3841 7365 or email becca@hji.co.uk SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown on 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk
#BHBA19
T HE HOT LIST
Protect and perfect
Blonde ambition
Lighter life
Summer can be tough on your client’s hair. Recommend Schwarzkopf Professional BC Sun Protect Travel Size Kit. It helps protect hair before, after and during sun exposure. RRP £18
Achieve up to 9 levels of lift in less time, while maintaining your client’s hair integrity, thanks to the unique oil-based developers in L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 Levels.
The Alter Ego Blonde Ego Intro Kit contains the Balayage Clay Lightener, Ultra 9 Lightener, Blonde Maintain Shampoo (1 litre) and a complimentary double bristle brush. £55+VAT
Colour kaleidoscope
Rainbow brights
Scalp saviour
Joico Color Intensity LoveFest Collection is a duo of cool and creative shades (Limelight and Aqua Flow) that were designed by the brand’s ambassador Larisa Love. RRP £6.05 each
The special edition Denman D3 Honolulu in Yellow and African Violet is inspired by Denman’s Modern Lives collection and created by the global creative director, Paul Stafford. £5.35+VAT
Scalps need an exfoliating, cleansing and priming routine. The Goldwell Kerasilk Revitalize range can be used as a salon treatment with products to maintain the results at home. From £17
Perm perfection
Travel tress tamers
Heaven scents
A perm system that claims to be gentle on the scalp, IdHAIR Black Magic is available in strong, normal and mild and it’s ammonia and thioglycolate-free with a mild fragrance. RRP £3.99
Balmain Paris Hair Couture Limited Edition Cosmetic Bag is a chic catwalk-inspired white patent bag that is filled with travel-sized Balmain products. Salon Price: £18.50, RRP £34.95
Reignite your retail shelf with the R+Co Dark Waves Fragrance Gel, which can be applied to pulse points and run through your client’s hair to leave tresses delicately scented. £26
88 / hji.co.uk
Sheer colour
Stop the burn
Sultry nudes
Formulated for fine, dry and colour-treated hair, the Pureology Hydrate Sheer Shampoo and Condition allows the vibrancy of your client’s colour to shine. From £19.95
Kevin Murphy Heated Defense is a leave-in foam treatment that protects all hair types from damage caused by heat styling tools. It distributes easily and regulates moisture loss. RRP £25
From peach-toned blonde to violet-toned brown, the milk_shake Creative Nude collection with highly creative permanent colours will prove to be a hit with your clients.
Weatherproof hair
Curl revolution
Getting wavy
The products in the Redken Frizz Dismiss range are infused with babassu oil to tame flyaways, decrease puffiness and increase manageability and shine. From £17.50
ghd oracle can be used to create endless curls in one simple stroke. It uses technology that combines a unique shape, the styling powers of heat and a cool setting to create curls for all hair types. RRP £175
Bring second-day hair back to life with Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Wave Refresher Spray. Infused with a coconut fragrance, it aims to smooth and revive locks between washes. From £7.90
Straighten it out
Ray ban
Sunkissed highlights
Braliz, the formaldehyde-free Brazilian blow-dry treatment range is now available in the UK from DC Salon Products. It offers a long-lasting smooth finish, while keeping hair healthy. From £15.50
UV rays, sea spray, chlorine and salt can make tresses dry, dull and difficult to manage. Wella Invigo Sun range contains a shampoo, conditioner and UV protection spray to protect hair from the sun.
Summer means a rise in blonde requests. ASP Affinage Salon Professional Spirit Lights is an off-scalp system that lightens hair up to 3 levels and delivers bespoke tones. Intro Kit: £65+VAT
89 / hji.co.uk
INTERIORS
TIME WELL SPENT The beautifully serene Aesthetics Hair and Beauty is a haven to relax and recharge
T
ime well spent is the mission statement of Aesthetics in Henley-in-Arden. Owners Sarah and Adrian Bowron believe a visit to their salon should instil visitors with the feeling that their time has been put to good use. “At Aesthetics you can read, work or just soak up the atmosphere,” explains Sarah. “You can also catch up with friends or spend time with your children or even your pets – we always have dog biscuits on offer.” Sarah and Adrian (who have 30 years of hairdressing experience between them) wanted to create 90 / hji.co.uk
a space that followed the ethos of Wabi-Sabi – a Japanese aesthetic concept that embraces imperfection, incompletion and impermanence. The concept is about freeing yourself from a picture-perfect life and encourages followers to enjoy the world around them as it really is – perfectly imperfect. “As a Pinterest fan, I knew exactly how to bring my vision of a Wabi-Sabi salon to life,” explains Sarah. “My inspiration boards are full of concrete, antique brass sheeting, reclaimed wood, open fireplaces and even a garden swing.” Incorporating all of these elements,
INTERIORS SARAH’S TOP TIPS • Hire an architect They will push your builder to produce something beautiful as well as practical. • Make furniture multi-purpose Our reclaimed oak table is fitted with chargers, flattering lighting and reclaimed mirrors so guests can have lunch, read or listen to music while waiting for their colour to process. • Get bespoke Our dressers which are positioned on either side of the fireplace, were built to fit the uneven Grade II listed walls. They act as storage as well as being a beautiful design feature.
the salon is split into separate zones that flow beautifully together. All the work stations are equipped with USB ports and guests are encouraged to plug in to work, recharge or listen to music as they wish. Two open fires with leather chairs and blankets add to the feeling of homeliness, as do the selection of board games and books. The salon features an inspirational table complete with iPads where guests can interact with products and scroll through Pinterest boards for some hair inspiration. The team refer to the backwash area as ‘the snug’. Here the dramatic grey walls, in Farrow and Ball’s Railings shade, make guests feel like they are in a warm cocoon. In contrast, the main studio features an abundance of natural light thanks to the six skylights and Crittall-style
doors that fold back to reveal a charming courtyard garden. It’s this south-facing garden that could be described as the pièce de résistance of the salon. The spot is a tranquil oasis for clients to relax on the garden swing, sample the extensive drinks menu or order lunch to eat alfresco. “We’ve planted a romantic mix of English florals, such as roses, lavender and lilac wisteria,” explains Sarah. The courtyard has even been registered as a venue for the local Henley Music Festival. Every area of Aesthetics is designed with the client’s journey in mind. “We know that time is a precious commodity,” concludes Sarah. “If you spend two hours at a salon you deserve more than beautiful hair.” You certainly get a feeling of calm peacefulness, as well as gorgeous hair at Aesthetics Hair and Beauty. 91 / hji.co.uk
FACT FILE Name: Aesthetics Hair and Beauty Address: 193 High Street, Henley-in-Arden, Warwickshire Owners: Sarah and Adrian Bowron How long in the premises: 6 months Design: Based on the Japanese concept of Wabi-Sabi
JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs. REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE
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CAREERS
David Charlton
The Philanthropist The CEO of David’s Salons, which has over 250 salons in the Philippines, is giving disadvantaged young people a career in hairdressing as part of the Schwarzkopf Professional Shaping Futures programme What was your route into the hair industry?
My uncle was a hairdresser – he had his own salon in Sunderland. As a child I would take drinks out to the clients and sweep floors so it was a natural next step to become an apprentice when I was 16. I studied hairdressing in Durham and advanced hairdressing in South Shields. I taught hairdressing part-time after I’d qualified and at 22 I told my uncle I wanted to work in Hong Kong. I applied for a role I’d seen in HJ and spent a few months in Hong Kong before being invited to manage a salon in the Philippines. How did you start your own salon chain in the Philippines?
I worked for a successful salon owner in Hong Kong and he was expanding and growing his business. He took me on as a partner and eventually encouraged me to buy him out. The economy was growing in the Philippines and one of our clients asked me to open a salon in a new shopping mall. He provided the money and we became partners. After that, I was asked to open salons in the new hotels that were opening and that’s how it started. What are the pros and cons of running a 250-plus salon chain?
The pros are that we’re set up as a corporation so that means we have more freedom than if you’re just working in the salon. The cons are that you’re responsible for everything. It’s one thing being responsible for
the salaries of half a dozen people but we’ve got nearly 3,000 employees to consider. I have to think about how everything we do will affect the majority of our staff. Can you tell us about your charitable work in the Philippines?
We do a lot of our own outreach programmes. We work with undereducated young people, orphans and mothers who struggle to make ends meet. When I heard that Schwarzkopf Professional’s Shaping Futures was coming to the Philippines I offered to give all of the students a job and where possible, in the towns where they were originally from. The initiative is coming back to the Philippines again this year, so I’ll be helping to give young people jobs in our salons once again. Why is it so important to give back to the community?
My attitude has always been if you’re working with me and I’m successful then you should also be successful. I would feel very uncomfortable driving an expensive car if all of my staff were walking past me in slippers 93 / hji.co.uk
and a t-shirt. We pay good salaries and commission to keep great staff. We do a lot of outreach projects because we want to help others. We always give back – if we see something wrong, we want to help fix it. What advice would you give to someone who aspires to have a career like yours?
Hairdressing is a career that you’ve got to love. You’ve got to love working with people and looking after them. You’ve also got to love fashion, seeing new looks and recreating them. If you want to be a successful hairdresser you’ve got to live and breathe it and be working all of the time. What’s next for you in terms of your career and charity work?
I can’t imagine retiring because I love what I do. We’ll always support Shaping Futures and every two or three months we work on our own outreach programmes where we go into orphanages, villages and schools. We’ve even gone to the president’s palace and cut the staff’s hair for them – we’ll always be doing something for charity.
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team
JOBS
FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY
Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs. REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE
jobs.hji.co.uk/register
94 / hji.co.uk
RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376
Email: jobs@hji.co.uk
Twitter: @HJi_Jobs
hji.co.uk/jobs
www.one80salon.com
Technician / Stylist
NOW HIRING
Banstead, Surrey
One80 is looking for experienced, passionate, and driven Stylists with a customer first mentality.
Are you living in Surrey, working in a London salon and tired of commuting? We have a vacancy for a creative technician/stylist who has comprehensive experience in all aspects of hairdressing. 5 days per week
• Attractive service and retail commission • Guaranteed salary minimum • Regular and sustained education and continued career development
• 50%+ educational reimbursement • Group health insurance plan • 401K • 1K signing bonus after one year
ABOUT US One80 opened its doors in 2006 and rapidly established its status as one of the top salons in the Washington DC area. With many accolades under its belt, One80 continues to grow well beyond the national average, extending its reach to become a nationally recognized salon. One80 consists of a community of award winning stylists and colorists whose unpretentious style and commitment to the highest level of service form the cornerstone of our culture. Our stylists are able to apply the elements that make a look modern and contemporary to every hair style and client comfort level, bridging the gap between individual talent and customer service.
Salary- £45,000 per annum Call Jane on 07730678950 Call Clifford on 07789733339 Applications via email can be made to cliffordhunt@btconnect.com
HOW TO APPLY Please email your resume and cover letter to natalie@one80salon.com or call us at 202-842-9113
Recruiting now for Stylists, Technicians and Apprenticeships
@one80salon
Hairdresser chair for rent, feel free to contact if you are interested. Minimum 3 days per week £50 per day this price it is discount for 6 month rent, normal price is £100 per day.
Brothers are a group of 3 Aveda lifestyle / concept Salons established for 25 years in Thame, a vibrant upmarket bustling market town in Oxfordshire; Oxford, a very busy cosmopolitan city; and Marlow, an upmarket bustling town in Buckinghamshire. A great career opportunity to progress your talent and skill with photo opportunities, stage work and fashion shows.
Towels ) Tea, Coffee, Sugar, Drinking Water ) Magazines Trolley ) Personal Washing point ) Personal Hairdresser Chair ) Job Types: Full-time, Part-time )
O Great salary on application, product sales, commissions O Ongoing training with Aveda, GHD, Olaplex, Nanokeratin O A s well as photo shoots / fashion shows / stage work
opportunities brothersthame@googlemail.com brothersoxford@googlemail.com brothersmarlow@googlemail.com 01844 217365 01865 250696 01628 484717 brothers, 16 Buttermarket, Thame, Oxon, OX9 3EP | 01844 217365 www.brotherssalons.co.uk
Call 07549 328555 FULL TIME APPRENTICE AND SENIOR STYLIST ROLE About us: Pimps and Pinups is a busy east London salon based in Spitalfields. We have been operating since 2005 and offer modern haircutting, styling and colouring techniques with a strong background in the classics. We are a busy east London salon, established for 13 years with a diverse clientele. We attract 50/50 male and female clients, and are nestled between the City and Brick Lane/Shoreditch.
@HJI_Jobs
Salon Apprentice
Senior Stylist
Pimps and Pinups hair salon are looking for a full-time apprentice to train as a hair stylist. We are looking for a enthusiastic person to join our team as a Salon Apprentice. Starting at the bottom you will get day release to college to study for the NVQ Level 2. You will also receive a weekly training session in-salon. You will be required to assist in the smooth running of the salon and engage in tasks from sweeping up hair to shampooing clients to assisting stylists in delivering amazing and transformative services. Previous experience in a hair salon is not required. However, you must be willing to work hard and have a passion for hair and fashion. Must also be a “people person” with an understanding of customer service.
We would like to offer an opportunity for a senior stylist to work in our busy vibrant salon. You should have at least 4 years experience as a stylist, experience of building a column and a great rapport with clients. You must be able to cut men and women’s hair, style and fluent english is a must language for you to understand/speak. There are positions available for either full time or part time if your are able to complete cut and colour.
Salary Apprentices – We offer weekly pay just above minimum wage plus statutory annual leave. Senior Stylists – We pay 40% of your daily take before VAT, with a sliding scale of commission on retail. You must have your own insurance and be registered self-employed.
If you are looking to work in Central London, want flexibility and can work well with a big team then this salon may just be for you.
Please email your CV to bec@pimpsandpinups.com or call 020 7426 2121
95 / hji.co.uk
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: nicola.c@hji.co.uk
A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation
To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA
0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk
96 / hji.co.uk
CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376
EDUCATION AND TRAINING
LEARN THE TRUE ART OF MALE GROOMING Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - The leading barbering expert. i Traditional barbering
i Hot towel cut throat shaving
One day clipper cutting course
i Barbering boot camp
One day course
Four day course
PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk
Hairdressers Journal International
has a print circulation of 12,000 copies
PROPERTY
SCISSOR SHARPENING
POSTAL & WHILE-U-WAIT SCISSORS SERVICE Professional Japanese hand sharpening
SCISSORS SHARPENING £18 CUSTOM NAME LASERING £18 inc. immediate return by 1st Class recorded delivery +£5 Next Day Delivery per order
NEW Guildford area. High Class Salon. Quality fitted throughout. 12 styling positions. £5,000wk (5 days). Good profits. Owner retiring. £400,000 Freehold Addlestone area. Freehold Shop Premises with Hair Salon. Very Smart Ground Floor Lock Up Unit. £1,750wk Five days. Retirement Sale. £299,000 Freehold Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Edgware / Mill Hill area, North London. Good Class Hair Salon. New Lease. £2,000wk. Owner retiring. £39,500 (or £460,000 F’hold inc 2 Bed Flat) Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. Tde £4,200wk. Easy 5 days. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 West Berks Country Town. Very Smart Modern Hair & Beauty Salon. Really busy location. Top Class fitout. Two Beauty Rooms. Lease. £4,250wk. £39,950 West Berks - few miles Newbury - High Class Country Town. Spacious Hair & Beauty. Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking. £2,000wk. Real scope younger owner. £18,500
Unit8 Hanover West, 161 Acton Lane, London NW10 7NB T: 020 8965 0585 www.dowa-international.com
TOWELS
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Place your order today: T: 0121 7739091 / 7720936 E: info@majestictowels.co.uk www.majestictowels.co.uk
, /MajesticTowels / @majestictowels
GROUP
Call or email the team 020 3841 7376 / gabriel@hji.co.uk
Leaders in designer salon, beauty and SPA furniture
Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/
97 / hji.co.uk
INSPIRATION
Life Through a Lens
T Simplicity
“Taken from the Millennia collection, this image almost didn’t make the final cut. Ironically, it’s become the most memorable and iconic image from the entire collection. We love its simplicity and purity and it’s one of those images that draws you in.”
g n u o Y & Hooker
Award-winning duo Gary Hooker and Michael Young have five salons in the north-east. The Schwarzkopf Professional ambassadors are renowned for creating beautiful hair imagery – here are six of their favourites W A symbol of femininity
“This image is taken from our most recent collection, which is named after the female symbol. This can be translated in many different ways but whichever way you choose to look at it, the pictures celebrate strong women of different ethnicities who have a confidence to be themselves. This image captures the energy and feel of the modern woman.”
T One in a 100
“We studied moths and butterflies for the Metamorphose collection because it takes you on a journey from the cocoon through to flight. The hair is very structured, yet the image has movement. It’s one of those moments you only get in one frame out of 100.”
S An opulent setting
“This image is from Hotel, which was shot on location in a boutique London hotel. It tells the story of two girls and follows their stay. The images were shot in an opulent setting and this particular image captures the story perfectly.”
X An all-time favourite
“Punk Couture still remains one of our most loved collections. It has everything for us – strength, beauty, drama and that extra special ‘something’ that can make a collection amazing. This image will always be a firm favourite of ours.” 98 / hji.co.uk
W Nod to the 70s
“Made in England tells the story of eight individual couples – all with a unique sense of style. This picture was definitely one of our favourites and a standout image from the collection with its slightly eccentric vibe. It has a nod to the 1970s that makes it super cool and memorable.”
World leading ethical hair extensions To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
100% VEGAN FRIENDLY
Super Silver Shampoo An intense, sulphate free treatment shampoo specifically formulated for use on superlightened, grey or bleached hair. Infused with super strong violet pigments to banish unwanted yellow tones for superclean results!
It’s time for change!
Available in: 100ml / 300ml / 1000ml
www.osmo.uk.com