Hairdressers Journal September 2019

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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER September 2019

Official Preview


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CONTENTS

102

September 2019 News

10

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

16

Let’s get Digital The most-clicked content on our websites and social channels

19

HJ Reports The results from the Goldwell UK Color Zoom final in London

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Client’s Needs Jo Robertson questions whether you really know your client

22

Website 101 Is your website working for you, your team and your bottom line?

24

Business Panel Discover our winners’ three main suggestions for you and your salon

26

When Two Becomes One How to merge two businesses successfully

27

Hot Off the Press Rainbow Room International reveal how to engage with the local press

29

Perfect ELEVEN Exclusive interview with the ELEVEN Australia founders

32

The Debate What’s your view on end-point assessments?

Features

37 44

Balayage Boom or Bust Is the low maintenance look losing your salon money? Autumn State of Mind The AW19 trends to get on your radar

KEN PICTON

Business

48

The Big Hair Issue A look at how the industry can cater for afro hair

Regulars

28

Membership Offer One new member will have the chance to win ELEVEN Australia goodies

131

The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month

137

Interiors Step inside Gina Conway’s new salon and spa in Wimbledon

140

Careers Joe Mills speaks to us about juggling many different roles

146

Life Through a Lens British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks reveals her favourite images

The Official Salon International Preview

51

#salon19 Who to see, where to go and what to buy at Salon International 2019

HJ Men

77

Men’s Zone Men’s hairdressing news, trends and two exclusive fashion collections

Inspiration

82

Fashion 12 exclusive collections and one get the look 6 / hji.co.uk


EDITOR’S LETTER

38 JORDI PÉRE Z

77

STERS

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

HEADMA

Managing Director Mark Moloney

New! Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

We l c o m e

Content Editor Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7369

T

he summer holidays are over, the kids are going back to school and a new season is almost here. For the HJ team it’s more than just the season that’s changing as we’re wrapping up this issue in the midst of an entire office move. We’re packing everything up, clearing everything out and feeling ready to start afresh at our company’s new HQ in leafy Wimbledon Village. If your clients are tempted to shake up their style for the colder months, check out our autumn/winter trends feature on pages 44-45 for what’s going to be big in the lead up to Christmas (I can’t believe I’ve said the ‘C’ word already!) We’ve also got hints and tips for using balayage to boost your business on page 37 and some insights into the afro professional hairdressing industry on page 48. The hair world really comes into its own from September – the British Hairdressing Business Awards winners will be announced on 9 September and Salon International will take centre stage on 5-7 October. Don’t miss our official Salon International preview of what to do, who to see and what to buy at the show on page 51. We’re also excited to tell you we’re including HJ Men news and exclusive fashion in every issue of HJ moving forwards. Head straight to page 77 to find out what’s new in the world of men’s hairdressing! Enjoy the issue and we’ll see you next month!

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377 Interns Michelle Sarkisyan and Evie Samman

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Account Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367

Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365 Design and Production Sarah Eversfield Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376

On the cover: Hair: Ashley Haynes and Charlotte Oldfield at Rush Hair Make-up: Megumi Matsuno Styling: Magdalena Jacobs Photography: Jack Eames 7 / hji.co.uk

Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062 Marketing Executive Georgina Miall georgina@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9061



BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK


INDUSTRY NEWS

More than 50 major high street retail chains are demanding government tax cuts to protect themselves from growing business rates and online competition. The retailers, including Marks & Spencer, Harrods and Iceland, have written to UK chancellor Sajid Javid to request urgent reform to business rates in a bid to protect the high street and boost retail business as the country leaves the EU. The British Retail Consortium who organised the letter said high street vacancy rates have risen to 10.3%, the highest since 2015. The National Hairdressers Federation has campaigned hard for reforms to business rates for professional hair salons, barbershops and beauty salons. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall told HJ: “A recent survey of our members shows around two thirds don’t pay business rates because they quality for small

SHUTTERSTOCK

UK Retailers Demand Rate Cuts to Save the High Street

business rates relief. Often these reliefs are short-term and temporary so we’re calling for them to be made permanent, as they are in Wales, to help small businesses plan ahead.” She added: “Of those who do pay business rates, more than half have seen their rates bills shoot up. We’re also calling for more

time for salon owners to recoup their investment in premises or expanding their business with a second set of premises to encourage growth, both of which now land them with a bigger business rates bill. Hilary believes there needs to be a long-term solution to the unfair burden that business

rates put on ‘bricks and mortar’ premises compared to online or out of town businesses. She said: “Salon and barbershop owners can help by writing to their local MPs to get their support for our campaign.” Hellen Ward, Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa managing director, told HJ it is essential for professional hair salons to lobby together for a level playing field. She said: “Don’t forget there are huge online players in our sector who are cleaning up on the professional retail market who don’t have any of the hefty liabilities of bricks and mortar salons. Until the government takes steps to ensure taxation is fair, the high street is in peril, and that includes hair and beauty salons. I’d go further and call for regulation for our sector. Until we have to be compliant as an industry, we will not only suffer from business rates but also the worrying surge in chair and room rental.”

#BeYouBePro Competition Launches to Celebrate Pros

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alon International and Hairdressers Journal International have launched a competition to raise the profile of the professional hairdressing industry. The competition is open to salon owners, students, freelancers, stylists and colourists. To enter, upload an image or short video to Facebook or Instagram explaining why you’re proud to be a professional and use the #beYOUbePRO hashtag. Don’t forget to tag @Salon_Int on

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Instagram or @SalonInternational on Facebook to make sure your entry is counted. There’s a range of prizes which include cash prizes up to £500, a feature in HJ for you or your salon, product bundles and work experience in a leading salon or a business consultancy session depending on the winner’s experience. The best images and videos will be shared on the @Salon_Int Instagram channel.


NEWS

SHUTTERSTOCK

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

London Beauty Week Launches L

ondon Beauty Week starts this September as a partnership between Covent Garden and the British Beauty Council. The week-long event from 11-15 September will support a recent report from the Hair and Barber Council, which revealed the UK hair and beauty industry is worth £6.6 billion. The event will also include a number of consumer and professional trade events. It will showcase exciting British beauty and hair products. The aim is to bring together some of the most influential industry voices to celebrate trends, showcase new products and host discussions on the industry’s future. Britain’s Next Big Beauty Brand competition will also launch during the week, offering start-up beauty companies the chance to win beauty business mentoring from experts.

Adele Clarke becomes OSMO brand ambassador Adele Clarke, owner of Spectrum Hair Company, is the new OSMO IKON brand ambassador. She will focus her attention across the colour portfolio. Sinéad McLaughlin, OSMO brand manager said: “Education will be a big focus for both OSMO and OSMO IKON going forward and Adele will play a major part showcasing the key attributes these products can bring to the salon alongside our global educator Lesley Stitt.” Adele is an awardwinning colour specialist who started her hair career at 14 and opened a salon 12 years later.

ID Artist Team Announced Following the 2019 ID Artists Audition tour, L’Oréal Professionnel has announced its ID Artist team. The L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist programme launched in 2003 to give hairdressers amazing opportunities within the hairdressing industry. A number of professionals work with the handpicked finalists to ensure their further development. The artists are given world-class education by talented mentors. The two-year talent development programme has helped over 200 hairdressers so far. The team are given exclusive opportunities, such as assisting backstage at London Fashion Week. Go to hji.co.uk to see the full list of winners.

Shaping Futures Farewell

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anet Maitland, UK ambassador for Shaping Futures is stepping down from her role due to ill health. Janet said: “I have loved this period of my life more than I can say.” She added: “It has been so rewarding to see young people transformed by the learning and care that is shown through Shaping Futures. It has been an honour and a privilege and I know this project

for which I hold the most deep passion is in safe hands.” Janet started working for the organisation back in 2011. She began as a project volunteer before heading up the UK Shaping Futures initiative for Schwarzkopf Professional as a UK ambassador. During her time with the project she worked tirelessly to ensure volunteers and the trainees were equipped and supported with all the training they needed to be successful. She worked with the Schwarzkopf education team to give a new future to underprivileged children in India, Jordan, Vietnam, and most recently, the Philippines.

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The UK’s vegan salon map The UK launched more vegan products than any other nation last year, according to professional salon supplies wholesaler, Salons Direct. There are already 54 salons at the forefront of the new vegan beauty movement with 28 of them located in the south. The growth of the vegan market is said to be accommodating the quarter of millennials who now identify as vegan or vegetarian.


NEWS Donate £1 Initiative per Appointment Darrel Hall, a hairdresser from Taylors Hair Studio in Chapel St Leonards, raised £1,000 for The Hairdressers’ Charity by donating a £1 from every hair appointment. Darrel said: “I kept a tally on social media to help promote the cause and show my success. It was simple to manage. After each client’s bill was put through the till, I physically took £1 and put it into the charity donation box.” If you would like to get involved and raise money for fellow hairdressers go to thehairdresserscharity.org.

Extra Security for Payments S

alons or barbershops that accept online payment will need to comply with a new EU rule that will be enforced in 18 months’ time. Strong Customer Authentication (SCA) means clients who pay online via a credit or debit card will need to provide additional identification. NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “You have time to prepare but you should speak to your payment software provider to check you will be ready.” If a payment is over £27, the client

will need to provide extra security information. This will be in addition to the usual name, card number, expiry date and three-digit number on the back of the card. Otherwise the payment will be declined by the client’s bank. Hilary added: “The aim is to prevent fraud which has continued to rise. Think about how you will include information on your online payment pages to explain you are complying with the rule so clients will understand you’re helping to protect them from fraudsters.”

Choose Hair Brand Ambassadors Choose Hair, an initiative to encourage more young people to opt for a career in hairdressing has revealed its first brand ambassadors. The ambassadors include: Karoliina Saunders, Charmaine Gully, Marlene Lamont, Phillippa Lee, Becky Candy, Heather Robertson, Donna O’Donoghue and Simon Tuckwell. “I’m delighted with the team. We will visit schools throughout the UK during Careers Week as well as appearing at trade fairs,” said campaign founder Emma Brady.

Pulp Riot Creates First UK Squad Pulp Riot has created a new UK squad, which includes content creators and educators. The hairdressing artists will share their creative artistry and the brand’s ethos on Instagram. The team will be inspiring hairstylists across the globe. The squad will also be sharing their work in person, as well as streaming education on Pulp Riot TV. The squad will be given coaching, education training, mentoring and support from some of the most successful social artists to help build their colour careers further. New squad member Tegan Robertson said: “In just a short few months Pulp Riot has trained me and given me opportunities to fulfil my dreams.” Head to hji.co.uk to see the full list of members. 12 / hji.co.uk

Paul Edmonds is Named Hair Chair

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ward-winning hair stylist Paul Edmonds has taken the lead role for the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education’s Hair and Beauty Route Panel. As chair, he will be pushing for high standards of technical excellence within the professional hairdressing industry. The Route Panel brings together industry experts to agree the standards of knowledge, skills and behaviours needed in apprenticeships for every occupation in England. The chairs lead their groups in reviewing and recommending apprenticeship standards and assessment plans and advising on funding levels on behalf of the Institute. The Institute recently launched a review of the Hair and Beauty route. It will ensure the apprenticeship continues to include high quality training that delivers the skills the employer and the apprentice need

SHUTTERSTOCK

Rushanara Ali, MP for Bethnal Green and Bow, has opened the new apprentice training centre in Hollybush Garden, London. The rebranded Central Hair London will bring the centre inline with the company’s other facilities in South East Essex, which are now known as Central Hair Essex. The centre was previously known as Joshua Galvin Academy.

SHUTTERSTOCK

New Apprentice Training Academy


SPONSORED BRANDS

The 2019 Faces of label.m Have Been Revealed The winners of label.m’s label-me model competition will appear in the brand’s 2019/2020 global advertising campaign. This year’s finalists met Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, label.m’s global creative director and professional hair experts to be interviewed about their individual style, interests and ambitions. This year’s winners are Sarah Ryan and Dominik Sanchez. Sacha said: “Our winners’ reflect everything that label.m is about in their own individual way. Both are unapologetically unique in terms of their distinctive styles and I can’t wait for everyone to see the final campaign look!” The winners will be styled by an award-winning international artistic team and will feature in a prestigious label.m campaign shoot in London.

to thrive. The review will run until early 2020 when the Institute will publish its recommendations. An eight-week public consultation will give an opportunity for anyone interested in the development of the apprenticeship to get involved, including employers, providers and apprentices. Hairdressers are being invited to take part in the consultation, which closes on 22 September. Visit hji.co.uk for more details.

HAIR ESSENTIALS FOR THE MODERN MAN unter 1114 is a modern men’s H range composed of all the professional products your male clients will need. Today’s man is always on the go so Hunter 1114 has created a compact and versatile product range that will provide endless cocktailing possibilities. Plus, the unique and premium ingredients and vintage-style packaging will make the brand stand out on your retail shelf. The range features professional hair styling products such as Fiber

Gum, Whipped Mousse, Raw Matte Clay and Glass Sheen Pomade. The brand offers support to professional salons and barbershops and has developed introductory products that are easy to sell in the salon with a professional back bar and styling stations. Hunter 1114 aims to be the perfect line for every man that walks into your professional salon or barbershop. To stock the products and become part of the Hunter 1114 club go to hunter1114.com.

THE NEXT LEVEL OF LIGHTENING

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dvanced Pro Salon has added a 9 Level SuperLight Powder Bleach to its pre-lightening range, which is available in a stylish metallic gold 500g resealable pouch. The Advanced Pro Salon SuperLight achieves a clean lift up to 9 Levels with zero swell. The cream powder bleach formula is infused with ProPlex and argan oil, resulting in amazing hair straight from the pouch. When mixed with the Advanced Pro Salon developer range the SuperLight powder bleach transforms into a creamy 13 / hji.co.uk

texture that is ideal for freehand application and balayage. The Advanced Pro Salon pre-lightening range includes the 7 Level ProBleach with ProPlex and argan oil and a 6 Level ScalpBleach with ProPlex and peppermint oil. ProBleach is a blue powder and the ScalpBleach is a mint green powder and both are available in a 500g resealable pouch. You can see the full Advanced Pro Salon Powder Bleach range at Salon International at stand number V170. Go to advancedprosalon.co.uk for more information.


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Endless Styles Create a myriad of looks without limits using ghd’s professional tools

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Three tools – multiple styles W The bouncy ‘no-blow’ blow-dry The ghd glide, also known as ‘the brush that broke the internet’ is back. After launching in February 2019 and selling out globally in just two weeks, ghd’s hot brush has returned due to popular demand. What it does: It tames and smoothes dry hair quickly and effortlessly. It’s a client’s perfect partner for keeping hair looking salon fresh between professional blow-dries. How it works: The ceramic technology heats the brush uniformly to the optimum temperature of 185°C. The ioniser helps to eliminate frizz so that hair is smooth and glossy. The combination of high-density shorter bristles and longer bristles allows large sections to be styled and gives a look with plenty of natural movement. RRP £139

W Smooth, straight and glossy Developed over five years by ghd scientists and engineers, ghd platinum+ is a ‘smart’ straightener with predictive ultra-zone technology. What it does: It creates a smooth finish on all hair types whilst adding shine, preserving colour for longer and making sure the health of the hair is maintained. How it works: New predictive ultra-zone technology monitors heat 250 times a second. It recognises the thickness of hair, section size and the speed at which you are styling and adjusts accordingly to ensure the optimum temperature is maintained. RRP £189

W For ultimate curl power Create a variety of curls from beachy waves to more uniform curls in just one stroke with ghd oracle. What it does: The ghd oracle uses patented curl-zone technology which combines a unique shape, the styling power of heat and the setting effect of cooler temperatures to create curls. How it works: It heats hair to the optimum temperature of 185°C. It then curls and sets the hair by ‘crash cooling’ it with a temperature drop of over 100°C to ensure the style is set and the curls last. The ghd oracle can be tilted at slightly different angles to create different curl shapes. RRP £189 15 / hji.co.uk


FRANK POWOLYN/20TH CENTURY FOX/KOBAL/SHUTTERSTOCK

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

Victory Rolls T

his month the Hair Historian talks victory rolls. The style is now a pin-up girl favourite but its roots go back to a more trying time in the midst of war. Read all about it on site now.

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@hji

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

Stay up-to-date

T

here are just a couple of weeks left until the British Hairdressing Business Awards take place at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge. Follow us on social media to keep track of the action as it happens or why not join us on the night itself and be the first to find out the results – email lizzi@hji.co.uk or call 0203 841 7365 to book your tickets!

@hjinteractive

Social Shout Out

@themakoshark This feed has a great mix of rainbow hair hues and natural colour transformations – you don’t know what you’re going to see next! Akesha, digital editor

@riawna

Finalists Revealed The judges have spoken and the finalists for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional have been chosen. We now have to wait until November to find out the winners. If you want to see the images in all their glory, don’t miss the official finalists’ gallery, which will be at Salon International next month.

Riawna at LA’s NineZeroOne salon has a feed filled with celeb clients and this US pro soccer player clearly loves her new purple crop. Laura, HJ editor

ONE MONTH TO GO! Salon International is back at the ExCeL London next month (5-7 October) and we cannot wait. Iconic acts will be taking to the stage and the biggest brands will be on the show floor. For the most up-to-date information visit salonshow.co.uk. 17 / hji.co.uk

@kikihaircutter Kristin Heitkotter is the go-to stylist of my favourite famous female faces, such as Busy Phillips – swoon. Charlotte, content editor


E

MIZ O T S CU

LOR

CO R U O Y

• ADD HYPE PIGMENTS TO COLOR, CARE AND STYLING TO TAKE SALON TREATMENTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL. • CREATE INSTANT COLOR DEPOSITS, SIMPLY CHOOSE YOUR BASE, DROP AND APPLY. • A TRULY CUSTOMIZABLE COLOR, USE LESS DROPS FOR PASTEL SHADES OR MIX MULTIPLE DROPS TO CREATE A BRAND NEW TONE.

#BELIEVETHEHYPE

FOR HYPE PIGMENT SYSTEM EDUCATION VISIT OUR SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS.

CRAZY COLOR

@CRAZYCOLORLTD


HJ REPORTS COLOR ZOOM WINNERS

S NEW TALENT

BOLD & BRIGHT

Gold: Courtney Carins, Headromance (pictured) Silver: Millie Upton, Timba Hair & Beauty Bronze: Niamh Mulready, The Orange Room

Goldwell announced the winners of its pop-art themed

Color Zoom UK Final S CREATIVE Gold: Lauren Roma Hanlon, Slunks (pictured) Silver: Darryl Rivers-Hughes, Rivers & Hughes Bronze: Liz Usher, Vogue International

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he Goldwell Color Zoom UK Final 2019, which took place at the Printworks London, was the biggest UK final to date with over 750 people in attendance. KAO Salon Division general manager Julie Winchester told the audience: “We’re here to celebrate our 15 amazing Goldwell Color Zoom finalists. We’ve had the largest number of entries for this year’s pop-art inspired Remix theme, so it’s set to be our biggest UK final yet.” Guests enjoyed an al fresco KMS

drinks reception with cocktails, street food and networking before being seated for the awards ceremony. Goldwell UK guest artists, including Beverly C, Erik Lander, Hare & Bone Art Team, Lisa Whiteman, Mazella & Palmer, Neil Barton and Shane Bennett, opened the show with bright and on-trend colour looks. Finally, the 15 finalists presented their pop-art and graphic-inspired models in a catwalk show and were invited onto the stage before the winners were announced. 19 / hji.co.uk

S PARTNER Gold: Richard Munslow, Toni & Guy, Hemel Hempstead (pictured) Silver: Stephanie Jones, Stephanie Jones AwardWinning Hair & Beauty Bronze: Craig Paul, Craig Paul Hairdressing


BUSINESS

The Shine Club

Have you considered setting up a subscription for a treatment? Clients could subscribe and come in for as many treatments as they want in a month? It could be given a name such as The Shine Club. Think about the additional services you could offer that would bring in an extra revenue stream for your salon? Talk about this in your next team meeting and ask your team to share their ideas.

What do your clients want? Business consultant Jo Robertson asks you to question if you are stocking the right products and offering the treatments your clients really want

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our clients want answers to their hair problems so are you stocking the right solutions? Sell remedies to clients rather than services as this will appeal to a client’s main concerns. If you have a large services list but you do the same four services, this could be because you are not telling your clients about your full offering or you need to update your list.

Learn from Apple It can take up to 20 visits for a client to buy into a new product or service. You may feel like you are repeating yourself, but clients won’t notice. If a client is loyal they will remain loyal. If you don’t tell them about the extensive services you offer, they will stick to their regular cut and blow-dry or cut and colour. A loyal client is less likely to go on your website or ask about the different services you offer. This means you need to make your services list simple, consistent and easy to find for both new and existing clients. Apple doesn’t tell its consumers once about a new product – it tells them until they decide they want or need the latest smartphone or tablet.

Examine your services Do your services match your hourly rate and are you making the percentage of profit required? This should be reviewed to ensure you are making the profit you need. This is the difference between thinking like a business owner or a stylist. Ask clients what services they want. Trends are evolving constantly and so should your services. You will attract new clients and your rebooking rate will also increase. The best way of doing this is to set up a quick survey and ask clients what new services they would like to see in the salon.

Name it and own it Clients want balayage because it is everywhere but do they need it? Create services that are unique to your salon. Take the face framing technique – describe it like it is the special of the day in a restaurant. Use words that identify with your clients. Become the Nigella Lawson of the hair industry.

Retail selling is not dead If you dust the products more than you sell them, they are not working 20 / hji.co.uk

for you. Re-evaluate your retail along with your services. Change brands and products as this will get your staff excited and if they are excited, your clients will be too.

The power of a consultation Does your team give a consultation to every client on every appointment? Tell your team to ask a simple question and transform your business. Asking clients to tell you about their hair story will help you to learn about their hair history. Ask about your client’s natural hair texture as 65% of women have naturally curly hair. You could teach clients how to wear hair curly because the average retail spend of a curly hair client is double that of a straight haired client.

Jo Robertson coaches hair professionals and uses her brand experience to achieve results quickly. Visit jorobertson.co.uk for more information.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Solve the problem and give clients the benefit of your service


Seek natural growth, harvest calm. Zen Series.

Visit us at Salon International

Stand N126


BUSINESS

Make money from your salon website

SHUTTERSTOCK

Business consultant Liz McKeon explains how to make your website an integral part of your business

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our website is your platform and showcase to the world. It is an essential part of your business proposition. If you don’t have a well-built website to drive clients to your salon you are missing out on thousands of pounds every year. Here are some tips to make your website work harder for you.

yours should allow you to remain competitive with your competition. If you don’t have a stand-out digital presence you are giving potential clients no choice but to book with another salon. Remember that once any consumer has an idea of what they need or want, they will start researching online to find details, reviews and testimonials.

Stay in control

Create 24/7 bookings

Your website helps to develop a rapport and trust with potential new clients. Would you trust a business that doesn’t have a website in 2019? If you don’t have a business website today’s digital-savvy clients may look elsewhere. Remember you are in control of the content on your site. You cannot control what others say about you on social media, but you can influence public perception by creating your own promotional content via your website. It helps to back-up the claims you make on your website as 90% of consumers say online reviews influence their buying decisions. Since potential clients are already looking online, including client testimonials is a great way to impress them.

The bonus of a fully functioning website is clients can make online bookings 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Combining your website with marketing tools like email marketing, will help you to reach new customers and generate both new and repeat business.

Compete with the competition With some clever digital marketing, you can position your salon to reach more potential clients for less money than you would spend on traditional marketing. Remember most of your competitors have websites so

Be creative online Use your personal digital space to highlight your products and services in the best way possible. A website is an obvious place to display your price list and products in detail, but you can also use it to create a buzz with exciting and informative short video content. This will give hesitant clients reassurance about your amazing salon and your team and will ensure they have no reason to book elsewhere.

Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com. 22 / hji.co.uk

The mistakes salon owners need to avoid

1

Not having a website – A booking website means clients can book outside of working hours so you make money for your business while you sleep.

2

Uninspiring content – Why would a potential client contact the salon when they can simply read the brochure, leave the site and move on? Engage clients with a newsletter sign-up form or competition.

3

Choosing the wrong web developer – Most salon website developers are not marketing experts and mistakes can be very costly. Invest in a website that sells your salon to clients as the cost will be worth it.

4

Failing to promote your website – The process of promoting and refining your website to maximise the response rate is ongoing. Consider your strategy to drive new traffic.

5

Failing to test and measure – Most sites are never tested. Make sure you have the tools needed to track the traffic and activity on your website on a regular basis.



BUSINESS PANEL

What have you learnt from being a British Hairdressing Business Awards winner? The 2018/2019 panel explain what they’ve gained from winning their awards last September and share three business tips that you could apply in your salon today Name: Christian Wiles Salon: Christian Wiles Hairdressing Award: Male Grooming Salon of the Year “It is such an honour to have won this award twice over the past few years. It’s fantastic to see how much it means to my team and also to our salon clients. Winning this award creates a remarkable sense of pride for both those who work at the salon and those who visit our salon. Our clients are still talking about the win and there has been a buzz over the past 12 months. We use the award in our marketing materials, and this has generated new business and built local awareness of our brand.”

Christian’s steps to success: ∞ Treat clients and

colleagues with respect.

∞ Remain focused on

exceeding expectations and delivering excellence in an authentic way that is true to your beliefs and your brand vision. ∞ Surround yourself with positive energy and create a team who are hungry to learn and develop their skills.

Name: Mimi Kobayashi Salon: Billi Currie Award: Salon Stylist of the Year “This award has given me more confidence in the salon. I’ve enjoyed being able to offer education and share my knowledge with others. For example, I was invited to attend seminars and to teach at industry events to inspire my team and guests at the Billi Currie Salon. I’ve become a Schwarzkopf digital ambassador and I’ve also had the chance to work with lots of business salon owners and hair artists. Finally, I’ve become busier in the salon as some clients have found me on social media, including some from abroad as well.

Mimi’s steps to success: ∞ Look – take a look

around you and see what is going well in your working life and what you could do differently. ∞ Listen – spend time listening to your work colleagues and clients and be inspired. ∞ Learn – there is always more to learn so dedicate time to regular education and training programmes.

Name: Melissa Timperley Salon: Melissa Timperley Salons Award: Marketing Award “I was delighted to win the marketing award – it was the highlight of our business year. The award gave us the endorsement from highly respected professionals in our industry that we were doing all of the right things. Not only has the award given me and the team at Melissa Timperley Salons increased confidence, it’s also brought in many new clients to the salon who were attracted by the fact we’ve won an award from a respected industry body.”

Melissa’s steps to success: ∞ The first step is to enter

these awards as you have to be in it to win it. ∞ Plan a marketing strategy every few months and study the results to see how each campaign worked. ∞ Try and be different and know your niche. Consider what you can offer your clients that no one else can and put that into your marketing strategy.

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Name: Phil Smith Salon: Smith England Award: Salon of the Year 2 “Running a salon or any business can be hard. You can feel overwhelmed and doubt your business decisions. Entering the British Hairdressing Business Awards has helped me to take a step back and look at my salon. Even the process of putting the entry together made me feel proud but to win Salon of the Year 2 gave me the confidence to believe in myself.”

Phil’s steps to success: ∞ Never compare yourself

to others as we are all unique in the way we approach business. ∞ Never be afraid to share or ask questions. I wouldn’t be where I am today without the advice of others and I am always happy to share my story. ∞ Don’t take your success for granted and don’t allow imposter syndrome to prevent you from moving forward. Running a business can be hard but will be the best professional decision you ever make.


PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS 2019 Name: Hannah Kernick Salon: H&Co Hair Salon Awards: Customer Care, Independent Salon – Business Newcomer and Salon Design “The entire entry process helped us to understand our business. It has forced us to improve our procedures and kept us in touch with the industry as a whole. Overall it’s helped us to stay at the top of our game. It’s also been a great opportunity to involve our staff in attending awards as they get to meet other hairdressers and big names in the industry. It’s motivational for staff and marketing our salon as multi award-winning has attracted new clients.”

Hannah’s steps to success: ∞ Base your pricing strategy on costs

and profits rather than what other people charge around you. ∞ Have a point of difference from your competition in the area. ∞ Work with other salons in your area to share ideas, resources and training as this will raise the bar for everyone.

Name: Lisa Walby Salon: Francesco Group, Cheltenham Award: Franchisee of the Year “Success in one area of your business can sometimes result in a loss of focus or drive in another area of the business. This means you always need to try and spin as many plates as you can at all times. There is absolutely no short cut to success. It requires hard work, focus and passion all of the time. I personally love analogies and my favourite this year is from Sophia Hilton who said: “Your business is like a sand castle – it often gets swept away with the tide, but the fun is building it back up again!”

Lisa’s steps to success: ∞ Keep regular communication with individuals in your team.

∞ Never assume you know what

other’s needs and desires will be. ∞ Always expect change around the corner – it’s inevitable and change will make you stronger.

Name: Steve Rowbottom and Marc Westerman Salon: Westrow Academy Award: Training Award “Winning the Training Award for the second time was a huge accolade for us. We made the decision to invest in education when we bought our Leeds city-centre based educational academy in 2013. We have poured our souls into establishing a leading centre of excellence. Winning this award has helped cement that reputation. It proves that we are serious about standards and the development of students and the industry at large.”

Steve and Marc’s steps to success: ∞ Business longevity requires

Name: Janet Maitland Salon: Janet Maitland Hair Excellence Award: Business Director of the Year “I’ve learned I should have had more confidence in myself and my team many years ago. I always imagined you needed to be a ‘famous’ hairdresser to win the Business Director of the Year accolade. It’s fantastic to be recognised by your peers within the professional hairdressing industry. I believe you need to just keep on loving your job, caring for your team and loving the people around you.

Janet’s steps to success: ∞ Remember to enjoy every day that

you are part of this creative industry.

continual evolution. ∞ A focus and a desire to exceed customer expectations should always be at the forefront of your mind. ∞ Be quick to respond to clients requests as this will ensure you give clients what they want and need.

∞ Speak positively to your team and

Name: Salv Mulé Salon: Academy Salons, Cobham Award: Retail Salon of the Year

Name: Mila Timberlake and Natalia Irvine Salon: Rainbow Room International Award: Front of House Team

“Never give up on your goal. We’d been trying to win the retail salon category for three years and have been shortlisted a few times. We carried on improving our approach, offering and abilities and three years later we achieved what we set out to do. Team work is key – educate your team to follow your company ethos and to achieve their personal and professional goals. Lead by example and never ask people to do something you’re not prepared to do yourself.”

Salv’s steps to success: ∞ Begin the day with the end of the

day in mind. Focus on the end goal and how to reach it successfully. ∞ Provide peerless education for your team and praise them individually and collectively. ∞ Most important of all – lead by example as you should be a leader and not a boss.

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when someone leaves keep the door open so they can still come back. ∞ Be honest in your accounts, words and deeds. Your team and the people around you will respect you for this and will want to join your journey.

“The whole experience has given us the confidence to go on and learn more, achieve more and become the best we can possibly be. This is a fantastic achievement for us and to be recognised for being the best at what we do within the hairdressing industry is a proud moment. It’s also been amazing to be featured in the local press in Uddingston. We strive to learn and adapt to ensure our front of house team and client experience are the very best.”

Mila and Natalia’s steps to success: ∞ Make sure you learn something new every day.

∞ A happy welcome will set the tone for every appointment.

∞ Be organised and ensure you are set for the week ahead.


BUSINESS

When Two Salons Become One Business consultant Ryan Fox reveals what you need to consider before integrating two salons into one

L

ast year Luca Sparti Cesari of Concrete Hair in Covent Garden was told by his landlord the block where his salon was based was being redeveloped. Luca had three choices – he could either find a new location, close the business and put all of his team out of work or sell the business. He ruled out finding a new location due to rising rents and increasing competition in the Covent Garden area. Luca had recently become a father so he decided to sell the business so he could move back to his native country of Italy.

Selling a salon with no salon Luca approached a lawyer to ask how to sell the business and discovered it would be very difficult to sell a salon with no physical salon as the building lease would not form part of the sale. Luca was keen to ensure the team would have the option to carry on working in the area so they wouldn’t lose their clients or jobs. He loved the idea of a salon merger with a nearby salon in Covent Garden. The nearby salon – Giannasso Hair & Beauty had been operating in Covent Garden for over 10 years. This award-winning luxury salon was well run, successful and ready to expand. The salon owner Sergio Giannasso explains: “It is becoming increasingly difficult to find good quality stylists and this was holding back the growth of my business.” Both salon owners agreed the integration of the Concrete team into the nearby Giannasso Hair & Beauty salon could be a win-win for everyone. A larger team with existing clients in the area and one set of overheads could be the answer and would give Luca’s team the chance to keep their jobs.

The salon merger agreement The next step was to come up with an agreement that was fair for both owners and would take care

Creating one brand culture

Could a salon merger work for you? With increased costs for salons such as rents, rates, minimum wages and pensions coupled with the challenges of recruiting staff and increased competition, it could be worth considering a merger or salon integration of your own. Why pay two lots of rents and rates for two salons that are half full when you could have one set of costs, a full salon and a healthy profit? “I would recommend speaking to an expert or hiring someone who can help with both sides of the integration from an impartial standpoint. It’s also crucial to work with someone who has experience dealing with complex salon situations,” explains Sergio.

of the team. The existing Concrete employees were transferred under the Transfer of Undertakings Protection of Employment Regulations to give them continuation of service under their existing contracts. As part of the agreement you need to be clear about the price of the business and how and when payments will be made. 26 / hji.co.uk

Once the agreement was signed, arrangements had to be made to integrate the team into the new salon. It was my job to understand the vision and create a new structure for the business. Once this was clear, it was important to communicate this to the team. An outstanding client service and team building training session was designed to get everyone on the same page with regards to standards and to bring the team together under the single Giannasso brand.

Managing the change It is important to think about everyone individually as well as the team as a whole. You should be inclusive and open to everyone’s input but think about it in terms of integration – not collaboration. We are half way through a 12-month business development and coaching programme which is helping to fully integrate the new team and drive the performance of the new larger business. Sergio says: “Since the changes we have seen good results with salon turnover up 62% on the previous six months and profits up 18%, which shows it was the right decision all round.”

Ryan Fox is a salon consultant who can help with a salon merger. For a confidential consultation contact 07702 208 311 or visit umbrellaconsulting.co.uk.


BUSINESS What makes a successful local press story? The Awards Story If members of your team are nominated for an award or win an award – shout about it as it will show clients and potential new clients that your team is among the best in the industry.

The Charity Story The salon raising money for charitable causes will attract clients because it shows you have good ethics and want to give back to the local community.

The power of the local press Rainbow Room International’s owners Alan and Linda Stewart list their tips for raising the profile of your salon in the local area in 2019

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It’s important when reaching out to local press that you are contacting the right person. Once you have the right contacts, make them your go-to when sending news and try to establish a great relationship with that individual journalist.

2 Be newsworthy

When reaching out to local press with news from your salon, it’s so important the news you are sending is newsworthy as otherwise it won’t be featured. Ensure you have an angle for your story and the news you are sending is exciting and something they will want to publish. If you’ve done something charitable this always goes down particularly well with local journalists.

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Competitions are a great way to get involved with local press and are different from editorial pieces. As an example at Rainbow Room

International, we regularly hold competitions with our local press when we have new stylists to help build their columns.

you’re inviting them into your salon for a complimentary appointment there’s a good chance they will review the service in your salon.

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Create events that will help you to shout about your salon and its offerings. You can invite local press and bloggers. Network with them during the event, build relationships and give them everything they need to publish the event in their publication or platform straight afterwards. Use these events to give journalists the chance to speak to you and your team in more detail and get any information or comments they may require from you as this will help to develop a long-term relationship.

4 Consider some advertising 7 >WT]V\MMZ NWZ QV\MZ^QM_[ Budgeting for some advertising in your local newspaper is extremely beneficial. It creates brand recognition and also shows the publication you want to support them. In return, journalists will most likely contact you first with upcoming editorial pieces. If you don’t have a budget ask the sales team to keep you updated with any last-minute deals that you can get involved with.

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Press appointments are the perfect way to build relationships with the local press. Invite them into your salon for a complimentary appointment and show them what makes your salon different and why they should write about it. Many publications also write reviews so if 27 / hji.co.uk

A simple way to get extra editorial for your salon is to offer expert comments for any relevant features. You might be asked to provide your opinion on hair trends or the hair at a Royal wedding. If you send your comments in a timely fashion it may entice the journalist to create a bigger story around the topic.

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Reaching out to the local press takes time so we work with a PR agency to make sure we are regularly in contact with the press and sharing our latest news. Journalists receive lots of emails each day, so a PR agency can send news out on your behalf and chase them up to get you the best coverage.

SHUTTERSTOCK

The Competition Story Nominate your salon to give a complimentary appointment as a competition prize. This will get potential new clients excited to enter and if the winner loves their appointment they could become a repeat customer.


MEMBERSHIPS Join us as an HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insights, inspiration and networking opportunities. Your membership will include: Annual print and digital subscription Access to the Membership Lounges at HJ Live and Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

BECOME A MEMBER THIS MONTH and win a pizza box filled with ELEVEN Australia products worth £200 Australia offers a fresh approach Etimes LEVEN to hair care. It was founded by four Australian Hairdresser of the Year

Membership services If you have any queries about membership or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below.

Joey Scandizzo and iconic international hair photographer Andrew O’Toole. The brand’s mantra is haircare doesn’t need to be complicated, it just needs to work.

Membership enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY

One new HJ Member will have the chance to win an ELEVEN Australia Pizza Box of products and a set of ELEVEN Australia Round Brushes worth £200. • The Pizza box contains a selection of 10 ELEVEN Australia hero products including the Miracle Hair Treatment. • The ELEVEN Small (25mm), Medium (33mm) and Large (43mm) Round Brush.

Membership rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

Become an HJ member and quote reference HJISEPTEMBER Email info@wonderful-brands.com or call 023 9400 3660 to find out more about ELEVEN Australia. PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65610 September 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DE. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media

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BUSINESS

The Faces Behind the Brand HJ speaks to award-winning Australian hairdresser Joey Scandizzo and photographer Andrew O’Toole about their new professional hair care brand and the differences between the Australian and UK hair market What is ELEVEN Australia? It all kicked off in 2011 – we were working on a magazine shoot together in Sydney where we had to shoot lots of different products. Joey wasn’t impressed with the performance or the packaging of any of the products. We realised there was a gap in the market for a simple and easy brand that hairdressers and consumers could understand. At the time we didn’t know anything about products or how to run a business but we decided to try it and now we’re in over 27 countries.

What is ELEVEN Australia’s unique selling point? We’re a fun and affordable brand that has a young and cool image. We give our customers educational support and we create products that fill a need within the professional hairdressing market. One of our tag lines is that hair doesn’t need to be complicated – it just needs to work and that has always been part of our philosophy.

How would you describe the Australian hairdressing industry today?

hairdressers have taken a different approach to the way they present hair. The photographic work has become much more fashion-based. The Australian hair market is taking risks with edgy concepts and fewer edits post production with a growing number of hairdressers not wanting any retouching after their shoots. The result is photographic work that looks raw yet beautifully authentic.

How do you juggle ELEVEN Australia with your day jobs? Juggling everything is a challenge. It’s tough trying to prioritise because we’ve got kids and partners on top of another month’s schedule overseas and trying to cater for our existing

clients. It’s really difficult trying to fit it all in. We really want to have that perfect balance of work and home life and we’re only just starting to master how to make it all work.

What are your tips for creating an award-winning collection? Planning is the secret to success – look at your six to eight looks and number them from the strongest to the weakest. Once you know which looks are weak, you can decide how to make them as strong as the rest. If you work with the best team it will always pull you up and make sure you have a degree of perfection about your work. Don’t stop until you get the ultimate shot.

Joey and Andrew’s must-have products for the salon The miracle hair treatment is our hero product – it started the whole collection as it gives the hair 11 benefits. Our finishing spray is a re-workable hair spray and the texture spray is a dual action product, so it is a sea salt spray and volume powder in one. It gives great grip as well as volume, body and texture.

Over the past few years Australian 29 / hji.co.uk



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BUSINESS

The Debate

Should students undergo an end-point assessment? Two industry figures discuss the benefits and drawbacks of trainee hairdressers taking a pass or fail exam at the end of their course No

“Each student is trade tested by an industry expert so it keeps standards consistent.”

“I believe an end-point assessment is causing unneccesary stress to our students.”

A fair and robust end-point assessment ensures the apprentice is ready for work. This is not just about being technically ready. The assessment also makes sure the student’s business and communications skills have been honed and checks they have the confidence to speak with clients and take bookings in a professional manner. In an industry where service and care are 50% of the experience, this is becoming ever more important in busy professional salons and barbershops. Another important feature of the end-point assessment is the employer can be more confident in the calibre of the apprentices coming into their business. They know that each apprentice has been trade tested by an industry expert in their field, which ensures the standard is consistent and kept at a high level. End-point assessments are much more reliable as they assess every learner going through the process rather than a percentage of the assessments, like in other qualifications. The assessment also provides credible assurances to the employer that show the learner is completely ready to enter the workplace confidently and with a strong grounding of how to do well in the job they love. We are seeing a new wave of apprentices go through the new end-point assessment process at a professional standard previously unmatched. Whilst the standard may be a little more challenging, this is quickly becoming the norm and will continue to improve the professionalism in businesses across the industry.

I’m not in favour of the end-point assessment because it can cause unnecessary stress and damage confidence. It is assessed by an external examiner, which can make the process confusing for the student. For example, I heard a story recently where a student failed because she carried out a process in the way her salon taught her. However, it did not warrant a ‘pass’ from the external examiner so she failed. The student’s confidence is now damaged and she didn’t know she was doing anything wrong. We should allow students to learn from their mistakes, rather than issuing them with a pass or fail. One of our juniors said: “The examiners don’t seem to be looking at your skills in a real-life salon situation – you are put under a microscope in an unreal situation.” In the early 1990s I worked as an external verifier because I believe in continual assessment. Young people who go into hairdressing often dislike everything hanging on a single exam result. The continual assessment was a real-life situation that if done properly meant the apprentice was never afraid of failure. They either passed or the assessment was turned into training. Although this assessment process still goes on over the period of the modern-day qualification, I believe the end-point assessment test is causing unnecessary stress. We should not be in the business of telling our students they are failures – we should be empowering, teaching and guiding them.

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Janet Maitland, managing director, Janet Maitland Hair Excellence

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IGI has created a new identity with the launch of Copyright Care. Linking colour with care and styling, TIGI has created a 360° service brand. Part of this new offering is to support the growth of client loyalty through the TIGI Creative Consultation programme for blonde services. Read on to find out more… The new consultation TIGI collaborated with Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global creative technical director and founder of STIL salon London, to design the consultation programme. The programme uses Christel’s expertise to tailor services for every client. “The key to successful blonde hair colour starts with the client consultation,” she says. “Ensuring the hairdresser really understands their client’s vision and equally, the client understands what is possible and what will work well on their hair.” The new innovation Christel recently tested the TIGI Copyright Colour technical team’s new innovation – a clay lightener that

To find out more go to tigi.com or follow @tigicopyright on Instagram. Plus, discover the new education and inspiration platform at tigifuse.com. empowers colourists to create lighter, brighter and healthier blondes. The new Blonder is designed specifically for creative colourists with a passion for freehand techniques. Formulated with clay and mineral oil, True Light Freestyle Blonder guarantees a seamless application. It achieves up to 7 levels of lift in only 40 minutes and features an anti-breakage arginine complex to preserve excellent hair condition during the lightening process. “As a salon owner and educator, 36 / hji.co.uk

I know only too well the importance of delivering fast, easy to apply, lightening services that don’t compromise hair condition,” explains Christel. “That’s exactly why TIGI created Copyright True Light Freestyle Blonder. Used together with TIGI Copyright Care SOS and Booster regimes, it gives colourists like me the power to transform our clients’ hair into beautiful, shiny and healthy blondes. I can already see the positive results with my clients, and I know it will result in increased client satisfaction and loyalty, which is also good for my business.”


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Singer Billie Eilish is no stranger to experimenting with colour and bright neon roots were next on her to-dye list. Inspired by 1990s grunge icons such as US punk band L7, this is a high maintenance look with dramatic results. “Lift roots up to a pale yellow,” explains Joel McCauley at Slunks Hair in Cardiff. “Then use a dash of Crazy Color Semi Permanent Hair Color Cream in Lime Twist and a touch of Toxic UV to get that root-pop.”

Child’s play

GINGER PEACH

Children dyeing their hair hit the headlines after Jessica Simpson posted a photo on Instagram of her seven-yearold daughter with rainbow locks. Pulp Riot co-founder Alexis Thurston, who often dyes her daughters’ hair with Pulp Riot’s semipermanent colour, told HJ: “It should always be done by a professional using products that aren’t damaging.” The NHF’s Hilary Hall said hair colourants containing certain chemicals such as PPD should not be used on anyone under the age of 16.

AW19’s must-have trans-seasonal colour? Ginger peach. The look is a move-on from summery pastel peaches – it’s a richer, spicier shade that’s perfect for autumn. To get the look use Guy Tang’s #mydentity Super Power Cosmic Coral and Phoenix Fire and mix it with Sheer Power if you need to soften the colour and add another dimension. 37 / hji.co.uk

The power of three Gloss is boss Like an illuminator for tresses, hair glossing treatments are in the spotlight. It’s the ideal choice for those who want a natural, soft and shiny result – without the upkeep of permanent colour.

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COLOUR and ends of the hair,” explains Adele Clarke, Spectrum Hair Company owner and OSMO IKON brand ambassador. The term balayage describes the technique, but it is increasingly used (rightly or wrongly) to articulate the finished look. “The balayage trend is quite frustrating for us as a team,” admits Kerry Mather, owner of KJM, a Schwarzkopf Professional salon. “Balayage is a technique for colouring hair – not a finished result.” As such, clients have confused or unrealistic expectations about what balayage actually is and the journey their hair needs to take to reach their desired result. You might need to think about your service menu and pricing structure. “We discuss pricing a lot in our team meetings,” continues Kerry. “In the future we might have to consider giving our clients a price for their balayage look after a full consultation because everyone’s desired results are so different.”

Balayage bonus Balayage is suitable for most hair lengths and types and it’s ideal for clients who are nervous of colour. It opens up a colour service to clients who might have felt excluded in the past. Market your balayage services in this way and it’s easy to attract new clients. Another plus point is that every balayage is bespoke. In a period where consumers demand a personalised service, this only adds to the technique’s popularity and means you can charge a premium price. “Balayage is bespoke to each client’s hair type and texture,” explains Luke Dawson Brown, Salon Success regional technical consultant. “You can have a subtle or a dramatic look and make it super low “Balayage is a maintenance.” technique for The low maintenance colouring hair – not aspect of the look is a finished result.” another reason for Has the low maintenance look Kerry Mather, owner its popularity. The bred a generation of clients who healthier hair that of KJM salon clients experience come into the salon less often? with balayage will mean they will return to alayage is one of the for business? HJ explores you time and time again. most-requested hair looks in the actions you can take to “Balayage gives hair a break the salon thanks to its universal ensure balayage makes your salon from bleach, allowing it to grow in a appeal and low maintenance profits boom. healthier way,” assures Dan Spiller, allure. There’s even been a dramatic Joico colour ambassador for Europe, What’s in a name? 170% increase in the search term the UK and Ireland. “Colour houses Balayage comes from the French ‘balayage near me’ in the past 12 have now developed ranges for word to sweep and perfectly months, according to Google Trends freehand work and education for illustrates the hand action used to and L’Oréal Professionnel. balayage,” Dan continues. This means create the technique. Created by For clients balayage is a win-win – balayage can be done more quickly they spend less money and time at the French colourists in the 1970s, “true and the results are better so you can balayage is a seamlessly blended look hairdressers and benefit from an onexceed client’s expectations, as well that builds up to a greater amount of trend and long-lasting look. But are as fitting more appointments into lightened hair towards the lengths less frequent appointments bad news your column.

IS BALAYAGE BAD FOR BUSINESS?

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COLOUR THE IN-SALON COLOUR KIT These in-salon treatments and direct dyes will help nourish hair and keep it looking its best

Revlon Professional Magnet Pollution Neutraliser can be used before colouring to remove unwanted pollutants and chemicals which can react unpredictably with colour.

Guy Tang MyDentity #Stroke 7 balayage collection includes a Rosé Balayage Lightener – a rosé tinted powder that provides up to 7 levels of lift in a single application.

Fudge Professional Headpaint Gel Toners can be used to keep balayage colour looking fresh, shiny and in great condition.

HEADMASTERS

Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode contains argan oil, multi-vitamins and has plex technology built into the formula to nourish hair as it colours.

Is it really low maintenance? Client confusion Balayage is often perceived as low Clients can get confused with maintenance but it all depends on the balayage (turn to p42 to see the client and the salon. The colourists number of alternative names for we spoke to suggested follow-up balayage). “Thanks to the media, appointments ranging from as little clients are asking for lots of different as six weeks to as long as four months techniques,” says Kerrie O’Reilly, TIGI after their initial service. “With European technical creative director. balayage the first appointment takes This can cause problems so a clear the longest and return visits are less consultation is key. frequent,” states Paul Chandler, an The images clients see on social Advanced ColourCode stylist. For this media can mean their aspirations reason, you could consider charging can’t be achieved in their first visit. for your time rather than the service. Tracey Devine Smith, ASP Affinage Also, always book your client Salon Professional global into the next appointment ambassador agrees: whilst they are still at “Clients often want the salon, this will balayage but with ensure they are other root shades. “Factor a glossing committed to a This can be turned treatment into a colour journey into a positive as client’s maintenance with your salon. you can upsell Encourage the service.” programme and clients to book Although re-book it before they in for treatments balayage has to keep their freed clients from leave the salon.” balayage looking the ‘hard-line’ root Luke Dawson Brown its best too. Luke regrowth of global says: “I always colour, it could be recommend a glossing argued salons have lost treatment and factor it the regular business that into a client’s colour this once brought. But Adele maintenance programme and from OSMO rightly points out that re-book it before guests leave the balayage is hard to achieve at home. salon.” Appointments like this will “The consequences of an help with the frequency of salon at-home balayage, or what I call a visits, as will toning appointments. ‘home-bre’ are disastrous,” she “Bespoke toning is really important. explains. “Colourists make the perfect It will keep lighter pieces looking blend look easy, but it takes legions clean and keep them in contrast with of technical know-how to do.” Clients the rest of the hair,” explains Mark might be tempted to box dye all-over Leeson, global artistic ambassador colour, but it takes a brave (or foolish) for Revlon Professional. client to attempt balayage at home. 41 / hji.co.uk


COLOUR THE TAKE-HOME PACKAGE

THE NAME OF THE GAME

The products that will nourish and maintain balayage at home and between salon appointments

“Balayage has become a social media buzz word and it’s often used as a hashtag under images that aren’t balayage,” says Gareth Williams, creative ambassador at Headmasters. “The images often are a mixture of techniques, including babylights and freehand painting so always clarify what your client wants.” These are just some of the terms our experts have heard balayage described as…

OSMO Deep Repair Moisture Mask is now available in a 1,200ml size, which means a high volume of product can be worked through to deeply nourish the hair.

High maintenance hair Contrary to popular opinion, balayage can be high maintenance. For example, bright shades applied using a balayage technique need more regular appointments. “Clients love getting a bright salon-fresh look and a pastel version between appointments with vivids. However, it’s crucial to provide your vivid colour client with a take-home colour conditioner to top up their hues at home,” explains Vicki Hoskin, Manic Panic ambassador and educator. Crazy Color ambassador Patrick Marrow, owner of Hive Hair, Manchester agrees: “Doctors give medication, personal trainers give diet plans and colourists should provide a take-home colour protection kit.” The products will depend on the type of colour used and can also be dependent on where the client lives. “Ash colours fade quickly and have a tendency to go yellow in polluted areas so I always recommend a silver shampoo, particularly to my clients that live in cities,” says Francesca Dixon, creative colourist at Hari’s, a L’Oréal Professionnel salon. Take-home retail products and treatments are crucial for keeping balayage hair in good health too. “When bleach has been used, hair will require special attention,” warns

RUSH

• Ombré • Root drag • Contouring • Root stretch • Hand paint • Lived-in colour • Flamboyage • Sombré • Colour melt • Root smudge • Hair painting • Foilage • Strobing

Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. A clean sweep Encouragingly many salons now say balayage is making business boom. “The trend has actually increased our colour business,” says Kerry Mather, owner of KJM. “We recently introduced babylights into our balayage technique which is a service that needs to be topped up regularly.” Balayage has also created an openness to experimentation. “It’s enabled clients to trial a hue that they would be wary of trying as an all-over colour,” says Siobhan Jones, owner of Rose & Wild, a L’Oréal Professionnel salon. “With balayage you can put tones at the ends of the hair without worrying about suitability,” she adds. Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK and Ireland technical director and creative director at Russell Eaton salons is positive about the effects balayage is having on clients in the salon. He says: “Clients spend more on their appointments and happily invest in products and treatments.” It’s a bright future for hairdressing’s most used buzz word. Healthy hair will always be in demand and with some know-how balayage could be a smart way to boost your business. 42 / hji.co.uk

The Joico Defy Damage range helps protect hair against the effects of daily heat styling, UV exposure and environmental pollution which can all lead to dull and lacklustre locks.

TIGI Copyright Care Repair Shampoo and Conditioner is formulated with a colour care complex to strengthen hair proteins and protect against future damage to the hair.

Clients can freshen salon colour at home with Goldwell Dualsenses Color Revive Color Giving Conditioners which match shades from icy blonde to warm red.


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE red dye with anti-inflammatory properties. Turmeric The rootstalks of this plant produce a deep orange-yellow dye that is perfect for colouring light hair with beautiful golden shades. Rhubarb The roots produce a conditioning, antioxidant rich dye that creates golden tones in lighter hair. THE COMPLETE RANGE This plant-based, vegan-friendly range includes: Warm shades – Nutmeg, Cranberry, Chocolate, Autumn Berries, All Spice, Paprika, Dark Cinnamon, Damson and Manuka Honey. Cool shades – Bitter Chocolate and Peppercorn Neutral shade (and/or conditioning shine treatment) – Crystal Clear. This shade can be used on its own for incredible shine, condition and texture without colour or mix it with other shades to give lighter/ pastel results. Primer Shampoo – It is designed for optimum colour penetration.

COLOUR THE NATURAL WAY ASP luxury haircare has created a plant-based, vegan-friendly colour that will give your clients beautiful, damage-free results

N

ew ASP Kitoko Botanical Colour uses seven natural dyes to give clients stronger, fuller, healthier-looking hair with incredible shine and vibrancy. It is perfect for clients with fragile or damaged hair, individuals who want to try colour for the first time or anyone who is sensitive to the ingredients found in colourants. The ready to use pre-blended shades are mixed with water for damage-free results that will give your clients up to 100% white coverage and beautiful colour for up to 20 washes.

It also has antioxidant and anti-dandruff properties.

THE SEVEN NATURAL DYES

Walnut Husk This antioxidant-rich dye is used to create all shades of brown.

Henna The leaves produce warm orange and red tones that are perfect for creating copper and brown shades.

Cassia This is also known as neutral henna. The plant contains a mild golden pigment that can be used for lighter shades and to brighten and condition locks. Indigo The leaves of this tropical plant provide a natural blue/violet dye that adds depth and can be used to create cooler tones.

Bloodwood Tree The blood-red heartwood produces 43 / hji.co.uk

THE BOTANICAL DIFFERENCE The ASP Kitoko Botanical Colour range has the following benefits: • Ready to use with pre-blended shades • Deposit-only colouring • It is free from peroxide, PPD, PTD, ammonia and resorcinol • All shades are 87-100% organic • Up to 100% white coverage for up to 20 washes • All of the shades are intermixable • It strengthens, conditions and adds fullness to the hair • It is vegan-friendly and gluten-free For information on ASP and Kitoko call 01794 527 111 or visit www.asphair.com.


TRENDS

WINTER IS COMING!

O WELLA PR

Low ‘ponys’

The look: The low ponytails at Cassey’s London Fashion Week show were minimal yet pristine. Toni & Guy’s international artistic director Daniele De Angelis used a strand of hair wrapped around elastic to keep it out of sight. S RAW AND EFFORTLESS AT PREEN

Lived-in luxe BABYLISS PRO

T ANTI-GROOMED AT MARY KATRANTZOU

S FLAT S-BEND AT HOUSE OF HOLLAND

The look: “It’s very undone, rough and raw with a natural, worn-in finish that’s almost anti-groomed and a little bit unkempt,” explains Redken global colour creative director Josh Wood. Hair is swept across the face and there’s a lot of natural power within it. REDKEN

TONI & GUY

S SMOOTHED TO PERFECTION AT CASSEY

The look: Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman wanted the models’ hair to have natural and organic movement. “The key is to be as easy as you can with this style. If you overstyle it, it will look overworked and even tortured.” Get the look Apply Wella Professionals EIMI Root Shoot to prepare the hair before using a curling tong. Brush the hair back and spray an inch-wide section of the hair from the hairline on either side with Wella Professionals EIMI Dynamic Fix.

1

Take a front section of hair, curl 2 from the root and leave out the ends. Repeat until both front sections

The look: Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO created soft ‘S’ bend flat waves to give movement to the hair peeking out from the models' hats.

have been curled. Create the ponytail by combining the front sections with the rest of the hair and brushing thoroughly with fingers for a messy effect.

Get the look Apply heat protector through the hair using the BaByliss PRO Italia Brava Dryer.

1

Spray Wella Professionals EIMI 3 Dry Me over the hair to loosen the roots before securing in a ponytail

2 On longer hair create soft ‘S’ bend 3 waves using the BaByliss PRO Prima 3000 straightener. Create a middle parting and gel the hair flat just above the ears.

with an elastic just above the nape of the neck. Twist a small tendril of hair around a hair pin and secure with Wella Professionals EIMI Dynamic Fix. 44 / hji.co.uk

WELLA PROFES SIONALS

FESSIONA

LS

The fashion world has spoken. Here are the four key hair trends your clients will crave this season


TRENDS

Accessories mania X FUTURISTIC RETRO AT ERDEM

The look: It is all about wet texture with a fresh twist on accessorising. L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador Luke Hersheson used super-long black jersey and tied it around the neck. He used the remainder to bind the length of the hair with a quiff at the front for a unique detail. The pro tip Buy some black jersey from a haberdashery and experiment with DIY hair binding. Give clients a short ponytail or fold the hair back on itself for a more compact look.

back section into a ponytail, positioned at the crown.

NEL

Create a horseshoe 2 section to split the hair into two sections. Scrape the

PROFESSIO N

1

L’ORÉAL

S BOYISH CHARM AT MOLLY GODDARD

Get the look Apply L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse throughout.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

“This is a futuristic version of 1960s hair that’s sculpted and slightly alien-shaped. We want it to feel very ‘done’ but modern” Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel

Spray L’Oréal Professionnel 3 Tecni.ART Savage Panache on the roots to texturise and backcomb into a fuzzy bun to create a ‘padding’ for the front. Brush the front section 4 over the bun so the style rises over the crown.

5

Pin securely and hide the bun, so the back and front merge into a sculpted shape. Spray L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium Extreme Hold Hairspray and add a decorative clip above the nape of the neck.

The look: Toni & Guy’s international artistic director Indira Schauwecker kept the front simple with chic headbands and contrasted this against sculpted deep waves at the back.

W POLISHED CHIC AT THOM BROWNE

GHD

“This style blurs the lines between what we consider merely beautiful and what we consider elegantly empowering.” Eugene Souleiman for ghd

45 / hji.co.uk

The look: Tina Outen for L’Oréal Professionnel says: “We’re hinting at a sci-fi character with a hazy texture – models have an exaggerated crown that’s almost alien-shaped.” T MINIMALIST WAVES AT I-AM-CHEN

Pristine plaits

The pro tip For a good wave, it’s essential to literally twist the hair around the tong for full effect. TONI & GUY

The look: ghd fashion week ambassador Eugene Souleiman drew his inspiration from the world of iconic men from history. The chic hair is groomed to perfection to give the impression of a fresh trip to the barber as opposed to an afternoon at the salon.

X HAZY IRIDESCENCE AT BORA AKSU


MONDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER 2019 PARK PLAZA, WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, LONDON


PRESENTS THE

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#BHBA19


AFRO HAIR

THE BIG (HAIR) ISSUE With the rest of the beauty industry stepping up amid calls for diversity – what can you do to be more inclusive?

48 / hji.co.uk


AFRO HAIR

T

ANNE VECK

he hair industry has made huge strides over the past decade to become more inclusive. Prior to the 2010s many people of colour struggled to buy hair care in mainstream stores. There are still big strides to be made, but in the consumer market there is now more choice than ever so the professional hairdressing industry can’t risk lagging behind. The diversity of the population in big cities such as London, Manchester and Birmingham mean there are afro-specific salons available to meet textured hair’s needs. However, there is limited choice in terms of care and styling for clients living in more rural areas. In 2019, the training and knowledge for textured hair is still lacking. “We now live in a more multi-cultural society and afro hair is mainstream,” says award-winning hairdresser Anne Veck. “If you don’t cater for clients with curly hair it’s like saying you don’t cater for clients with red hair.”

leaves, the salon can no longer cater for the textured hair market. It’s important for salons to arm stylists with at least a basic knowledge of caring for afro hair behind the chair to prevent a potential client being turned away due to lack of knowledge. In the age of social media and cancel culture, you could be one disgruntled customer away from a social media showdown. Former editor of Blackhair Magazine, Keysha Davis, has found herself in this position. Her afro wasn’t catered for by larger salons and the issue wasn’t addressed prior to her sitting in the chair. “As someone with coarse natural hair, I’ve been in a position where I was assured that quite a big and well-known salon would be able to style my hair but as my appointment progressed it was clear the stylist wasn’t confident in her abilities.” She adds: “It’s really important to be honest with clients about your limitations.” It’s essential to be upfront about your shortfalls and address these before the industry moves ahead without you and potential clients are put off by your stylists’ lack of skills in the salon.

No qualifications necessary? Until recently students could receive NVQ qualifications without having to train in cutting or styling afro hair. Consequently, many hairdressers have gone through their entire careers too scared to Market yourself delve into the curly unknown. Brushing up on your textural knowledge can easily Today, NVQ courses such as the VTCT NVQ Level be done with training from professional black hair 3 Diploma in Hairdressing (Combined Hair Types) brands. For example, Avlon Affirm, KeraCare and teaches students to style afro hair as part Design Essentials hold annual courses and of the course at each stage. This is events to teach and talk about afro hair a step in the right direction, but care and styling. change will be slow because it is If your salon does cater to all not compulsory to have these hair types, it’s important to shout “If you don’t qualifications to become about it. A scan of many salon a hairdresser. groups’ Instagram pages shows cater for clients with very few images of clients of curly hair, it’s like Building trust colour and some don’t have Many stylists working in afro any from this year at all. saying you don’t salons have learned their skills cater for clients through working their way up Styling options with red hair.” in the salon and shadowing Do the campaigns in your more experienced team windows showcase the breadth Anne Veck members as opposed to taking a of the services you offer, or would traditional training qualification. a potential new customer walk past Working with black hair day in and because they don’t think you cater day out means hairdressers based to them? It’s these considerations that in afro salons will develop a specialism will propel you into being a truly inclusive in textured hair quickly. This also means clients salon. Anne suggests aligning your salon with hair trust stylists at afro hair salons because they are influencers to become au fait with new trends and consistently working with different hair types. “If styles. “Clients are now really savvy when it comes you haven’t been trained in afro hair cutting and to looking after their hair,” she says. “There are styling, you are likely to be lacking confidence as some brilliant Instagrammers you can follow who well as the right skills when a client with afro hair give great advice on products and techniques. If walks through the salon door,” warns Anne. “You clients can train themselves about how to look after might avoid afro hair clients and by doing this you their curly hair so can we!” create a vicious circle.” Anne combats the initial With the shift towards natural hair very much in lack of texture knowledge young stylists might have full throttle (hair relaxer sales plummeted by 36% by constantly training her staff at her salons in between 2012 and 2017 according to market analyst Bicester and Oxford. “We have invested in training Mintel), kinks and coils in all their glory are set to that covers cutting, styling and relaxing very curly be the way forward for black women. Straightening hair and we benefit from an informal coaching textured hair post-wash was the failsafe styling arrangement with a friend of mine option chosen by many salons but now being well who runs a top African-Caribbean salon versed in finishing curly and coiled texture is the in Birmingham.” only way to cater to all hair types. Increasing your knowledge, awareness and Lack of skills having an emphasis on training could be the ticket Larger salon groups that are based in cities are to elevate our industry and bring us in line with more likely to have a stylist who is an afro or many other aspects of the beauty world and a step textured hair specialist. However, if that person closer to true inclusivity. 49 / hji.co.uk


WHAT’S #TRENDING IN AFRO HAIR The looks that are hot right now

ETIENNE LAURENT/EPA-EFE/SHUTTERSTOCK

TRENDS

W RED HAIR RULES

X BRAIDS FOR DAYS Braided and twisted looks are a failsafe if a client wants to protect their hair. Amped up with multi-coloured synthetic hair and accessories, braids are a busy client’s best style option as it lasts for weeks with little hassle or maintenance. Make sure you allocate adequate time for the styling as a full head of box braids can take up to six hours to complete.

S CORNROWS QUEENS A style that transcends age and gender, there is undoubtedly a cornrowed look for everyone. Beyoncé stunned at the Los Angeles Premiere of The Lion King where the braids around her hairline were styled into kiss curls.

SHUTTERSTOCK

ANDREW H.WALKER/SHUTTERSTOCK

AVLON

Blonde hair has been everywhere over the past few years but 2019 has seen a wave of black women choosing red hues. Celebrities such as Zendaya and Rihanna are experimenting with shades of crimson. “To achieve vivid red tones with an afro texture, the hair needs to be pre-lightened slightly first. For reds you do not need maximum lift, which gives some reassurance to the client in the chair,” says Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. The brand has recently relaunched its Headpaint range featuring a comprehensive range of red shades. “We’ve added pomegranate oil to the red shades, which is rich in antioxidants. This helps to neutralise protein-destroying free radicals, reduce hair porosity and keeps colour locked in,” adds Tracy.

S RAPUNZEL WIGS Waist-length lace front wigs are really popular right now. Wig makers can command huge sums for these types of wigs. The wigs are popular because they look realistic and give clients lots of versatility while styling. The sleek and straight look gives clients the option of styling their hair straight while keeping their natural locks safe underneath. 50 / hji.co.uk


PREVIEW

WELCOME

Salon International

SHOWS

54

Welcome

Salon Live

A letter from Salon International’s executive director Jayne Lewis-Orr

There will be six incredible Salon Live shows in the auditorium this year

PRODUCTS

56

SEMINARS

52

Seminars Discover this year’s must-attend intimate sessions ahead of the show

68

Products

Stands

The exciting Salon International launches and brands that will be at the show

Take a look at the stands and the exciting events you’ll want to see at the show

STANDS

59

70 STAGES

Stage Stars Cut-out-and-keep timetables from the HJ, Modern Barber and New Talent Stages

75

Competitions

How Alternative

All the hotly contested competitions that will be at the show

Get an insight into The Alternative Hair Show with founder Tony Rizzo

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

51 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

COMPETITIONS

72


WELCOME

SHOWS

WELCOME

Salon International

visitors ...attended Salon International at ExCeL London in 2018

PRODUCTS

SEMINARS

40,347

E of attendees ...visit the show to stay up-to-date with market trends and to see new products and innovations

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

COMPETITIONS

STAGES

STANDS

76%

400 brands ...will be exhibiting this year and there will be an exciting mix of UK and internatonal brands

xCeL London will once again be the focal point for the hairdressing industry globally as Salon International opens its doors from the 5 – 7 October. With 150+ shows on our stages and an abundance of educational and inspirational content on the exhibitor stages, there is something for everyone, at whatever stage of their career. From creative hairdressing icons who inspire globally to educators who willingly share their knowledge to empower and enable stylists, these shows will help you grow your column, your team and your salon business. At the heart of the industry, Salon International allows you to see, try and buy the newest products, equipment and furniture in addition to the latest styles and trend information. Business solutions are also available with software suppliers and industry experts on hand to help you grow your business. Live competitions will also feature on the show floor and HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards Gallery, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, gives you the first sighting of every finalist and nominee collection for 2019. From British Hairdresser of the Year and the beautiful regional categories, to stunning men’s, colour, afro and avant garde collections – these images are admired globally, so make sure you check them out. With Seminars in the Capital Suite, the Salon International Auditorium will host a series of Live shows throughout the weekend and on Sunday evening, the incredible Alternative Hair Show will showcase global artists and their incredible interpretations of this year’s theme, Parody. Raising money to continue the fight against Leukaemia, this is a show not to be missed, so please support and enjoy an evening to remember. And please don’t forget to post your selfies and use #salon19 so that we can see what you are up to!

Jayne Lewis-Orr, Executive Director 52 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


INTRODUCING NEW

HOT PINK!

Superfast processing time!

Re-energize your salon colour and help fight the fade with this intense colour conditioning treatment – now available in the most popular shade of today’s hair colour market!

www.osmo.uk.com


It’s Live Show Time…

5 October 14:45 – 16:00

6 October 14:15 – 15:30

X Sassoon Academy Where: ICC Auditorium Why: Sassoon is celebrating 65 years of being at the forefront of hair education. To mark this occasion, the international creative team will be doing two shows which will delve into the Sassoon legacy, reimagining iconic looks with craftmanship, technique and imagination. The team will demonstrate how to apply cutting and colouring techniques in today’s environment. The looks will feature London street style as well as experimental creativity where rules are broken. Price: £97.20 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

7 October 13:45 – 15:00

X Guy Tang with #mydentity Where: ICC Auditorium Why: Cult LA colourist and hair activist Guy Tang is returning to Salon International for a second year. He will bring his unique style and YouTube education to a live audience. The show will include his take on the latest colour trends and he will be providing a fun and exciting performance for his #hairbestie family in the UK. His main goal is to change the industry and he wants everyone to evolve together. Discover how you can get involved at his unique live show. Price: £54 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

7 October 12:00 – 13:15

X Rush Where: ICC Auditorium Why: The Rush Team will be pushing the boundaries and showcasing their creative looks, techniques, ideas and inspiration during this year’s Rush Live Show. The award-winning Rush Artistic Team is passionate about education and sharing their knowledge with a wider audience and will also be presenting their new and exclusive collections. Price: £54 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

54 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


Six live shows over one weekend – you will want to see them all!

6 October 10:30 – 11:45

SEMINARS

Where: ICC Auditorium Why: The Saco Haircare and Saco Academy Team are making their debut on the Salon Live Stage this year. The globally renowned Saco Academy International Creative Team, which is led by Richard Ashforth will be presenting their new collections as well as their signature directional and progressive looks. Price: £97.20 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

SHOWS

W SACO Academy

W Toni & Guy

STANDS

12:15 – 13:30

PRODUCTS

6 October

STAGES

Where: ICC Auditorium Why: Toni & Guy’s global creative director Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, and head of education Cos Sakkas, alongside the multi award-winning Artistic Team will present the new collections for Toni & Guy and label.m exclusively during the show. You will also be given an insight into the latest trends straight from the runways of London Fashion Week and London Fashion Week Men’s that will finish with an awe inspiring avant garde look. Price: £97.20 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

W Schwarzkopf Professional

16:15 – 17:30

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

55 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

COMPETITIONS

6 October

Where: ICC Auditorium Why: Enjoy a prestigious line-up of hairdressing maestros at this year’s Schwarzkopf Professional show. Rainbow Room International will showcase the skills of artistic directors Suzie McGill and Dylan Brittain who have four British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, between them. British Hairdresser of the Year nominees Gary Hooker and Michael Young will bring their famous mix of luxurious styling and trend-led looks. Finally, Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison will present their unique interpretation of the brand’s Essential Looks. Price: £97.20 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).


Up Close

and Personal

It’s braids central with hints and tips

Look, listen and learn is back

Push the creative boundaries

Who: Patrick Cameron When: Sunday 6 October at 10:30-11:45 Where: ICC Capital Suite Why: Patrick Cameron says big hair will be the major story for 2020 and he will be presenting his spin on it with his new House of Luxury collection. Patrick will show you how to create three looks from start to finish using his inspirational techniques, including braiding. He will be reimagining his unique style along with beautifully glossy and glamorous hair. His presentation is set to be fun, lively, educational and most of all trend-led. Price: £69 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

Who: Mahogany When: Sunday 6 October at 12:15-13:30 Where: ICC Capital Suite Why: The Mahogany Creative Team will be hosting their 23rd consecutive look, listen and learn seminar at this year’s Salon International. The team’s die-hard fans will not be disappointed as the Mahogany Hairdressing philosophy will be demonstrated with their iconic cutting and colouring techniques. Prepare to leave the seminar feeling both inspired and motivated to change the way you cut and colour hair in the salon. The session will show you how to incorporate art, fashion, beauty and architecture into your work, which can be diluted down for commercial clients on the salon floor. Price: £69 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

Who: Trevor Sorbie When: Sunday 6 October at 14:00-15:15 Where: ICC Capital Suite Why: The Trevor Sorbie Art Team are well-known for pushing the boundaries and thinking outside of the box. This year the team will showcase their brand new 2019 collection and will give you the opportunity to get an in-depth look into the cut and colour techniques behind each finished style. You will be shown how the work can either be strengthened or softened to suit stage work, photographic collections or a client in the salon. Plus, the team will give their insider hints and tips for ensuring your work remains creative but relevant in 2019 and beyond. Price: £69 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

COMPETITIONS

STAGES

STANDS

PRODUCTS

SEMINARS

Learn from your hairdressing heroes at this year’s must-attend seminars

56 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

Become a barber pro Who: BaByliss PRO’s LA Barber Sofie ‘Stay Gold’ Pok When: Sunday 6 October at 15:45-17:00 Where: ICC Capital Suite Why: If you want to upskill members of your team or if you want to up your barbering skills, Sofie’s seminar is for you. This is the first time the BaByliss PRO international educator is performing at Salon International. She will be teaching her tricks of the trade and how to make the most of your grooming tools in your salon or barbershop. Sofie is best known for her attention to detail when creating short hairstyles and attendees will love her clipper cutting. Price: £69 (1-Day Salon International entrance ticket is included).


THE

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THE

ho t LIST

There’s lots of new goodies to play with at Salon International

To celebrate 65 years of Sassoon the brand’s new collection video features six step-by-step cut and colour techniques that demonstrate Sassoon’s pioneering vision. Stand number: G124

Wahl 100 Year Anniversary Limited Edition Clipper has a motor that generates a higher blade speed with increased torque for more cutting power. Stand number: S140

Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener is ideal for creating balayage looks and reduces hair breakage. Stand number: Y164

ghd oracle creates a variety of curls and waves with just the tilt of a hand thanks to its patented curl-zone technology. Visit the ghd stand to book a demonstration. Stand number: Z140

It’s a 10 Haircare is launching exclusively in the UK with Aston & Fincher. The leave-in conditioner from the US offers 10 hair benefits in just one spritz. Stand number: R158

Pulp Riot Faction8 permanent colour is perfect for hair painting, blurring and colour melts as it doesn’t swell or drip. Available from Salons Direct. Stand number: G140

Elchim X-Lite Hairdryer is lightweight and features advanced ceramic technology that moisturises and protects hair from the effects of heat. Stand number: K140

Guy Tang’s #mydentity Stroke 7 Rosé Balayage Lightener combined with the Thicc Accelerator is ideal for free-hand work as it doesn’t flake or drip. Stand number: W156

BaByliss Titanium Expression is loved by session stylists. The tools deliver results quickly and accurately, thanks to its titanium and ceramic barrels. Stand number: B140

Ouidad opened the first salon dedicated to curls in 1984 in the US. It gives a customised approach to each curl type – loose, classic, tight and kinky. Stand number: P130

Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+ delivers vibrant colour with less damage, while ME+ reduces the risk of a client developing an allergy. Stand number: X140

PRODUCTS

softSmooth by Nanokeratin System smoothes all hair textures without heat. The brand claims regular use tames frizz and relaxes curly or wavy hair. Stand number: N146

STANDS STAGES COMPETITIONS ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

59 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


THE

ho t LIST

Pietranera Pasha 2 Seat Backwash is available in a range of fabrics. The Pasha is also available as a one-seat and three-seat unit. Available at Salon Supplies. Stand number: D140

Manic Panic Classic High Voltage Semi-Permanent Hair Dye is famous for its vibrant colours and vegan friendly PPD-free formula. Stand number: P158

Andis Master Cordless Li is a high-speed rotary blade clipper with carbon steel adjustable blades that has the freedom and convenience of a cordless. Stand number: K126

Great Lengths Mini Strands were designed with stylists in mind. The aim is to reduce valuable preparation time and the strands use a patented bond. Stand number: L122

Panasonic ER-GP81 features an adjustable dial that alters the cutting length from 0.8mm to 2.0mm in 0.3mm increments and can be operated with one hand. Stand number: L146

Denman has united two of its tools to create the Power Paddle. This hybrid fuses the styling pins of the D3 with the soft air-cushioned wide body of the Paddle Brush. Stand number: R156

The Kent Salon Ultimate kit bag contains Kent Salon Brushes (including the KS04 Dressing Brush and KS07 Paddle Brush), sectioning clips and a water spray. Stand number: F154

Electric °C-6 Cloudburst On-Set Evaporating Mousse contains avocado oil which improves skin and scalp healing and helps to strengthen hair follicles. Stand number: X130

Phorest Salon Software is an award-winning and 100% cloud-based management solution that can help you manage, market and grow your business. Stand number: R174

The Ama Tao Swivel is made from Japanese 440C cobalt steel. The ergonomic handle and swivel thumb ring adds comfort and flexibility. See it on the Bettertons stand. Stand number: N140

Amika’s 3D Volume and Thickening Shampoo + Conditioner helps plump from root to tip to give clients a voluminous look, whilst providing healthier-looking hair. Stand number: J140

Tangle Teezer The Wet Detangler has launched in a large size to accommodate the longest, thickest and curliest of hair. It has more teeth and a longer handle. Stand number: P170

60 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


Over 400 brands exhibit at Salon International!

Hair Passion Cryohair Treatment uses a freezing technique to repair damage and breakage-prone hair by filling and rebuilding the hair’s natural fibre. Stand number: W180

Takara Belmont Vintage Alt is a collection of four styling chairs and two backwash chairs that celebrate the brand’s heritage, functionality and vintage design. Stand number: N126

Yellow by Alfaparf uses advanced technology and natural ingredients to provide a smart, easy and result-driven offering that colourists and clients love. Stand number: D147

Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode Permanent/ Demi Dual Colour Professional range contains argan oil and vitamins. It features 117 shades. Stand number: V170

Diva Professional Styling Auto Curler is infused with macadamia, argan oil and keratin and the automatic enclosed barrel works to reduce frizz and enhance shine. Stand number: N170

Beu is a platform for the hair and beauty industry that builds and maintains relationships between clients and stylists by making every booking personal. Stand number: E154

Jaguar & Tondeo Scissors and Razors are tailored to deliver the latest fashion trends. The brand offers value-formoney, beginner models and premium scissors. Stand number: P122

Loft from Ayala Salon Design is inspired by industrial-chic furniture. The chairs with mirrored finishes (pictured) are launching at Salon International. Stand number: U130

The Olivia Garden Fingerbrush has a hand-shaped design that is perfect for massaging and can be used on wet or dry hair. It is available in three pastel shades. Stand number: R140

Seamless1 S1 Intense Care Mask is paraben-free and contains superfoods to help repair damage and rich emollients to tackle dryness. Stand number: R125

iSalon Software has over three decades of experience to help hair and beauty salons, spas, barbers, clinics and colleges manage their bookings. Stand number: M170

PRODUCTS

The 24*7 Dispenser from Procare allows stylists to choose their foil and fold preference and the number of foils they wish to prepare at the click of a button. Stand number: G142

STANDS STAGES COMPETITIONS ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

61 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


THE

ho t LIST

Kamisori Jewel Professional Hair Shears Set is made from Japanese 440C forged steel. Kamisori Japanese 3D Convex comes with a one-year drop warranty. Stand number: M124

Zen Hair has expanded its Luxury Tape extension range, which are quick to apply and easy to maintain. There are 42 colours available, including ombrĂŠs. Stand number: J180

Rush Academy is proud to offer an extensive range of education courses led by the Rush Artistic Team. Visit the Rush Hair stand for more information. Stand number: M140

Wet Brush Heavenly Henna features a limited edition design, inspired by traditional mehndi. With clever IntelliFlex bristles, the brushes make detangling easier. Stand number: P130

Remi Cachet Twin Tabs extensions are joined at the top to speed up application and removal. Micro rings lock the extensions in place, without any adhesives. Stand number: J148

iTEC and VTCT provide international qualifications and assessments in over 40 countries. Qualifications are delivered via over 1,900 approved sites globally. Stand number: H124

Hair Tools Electric Head Jog Steam Straightener helps to lock in natural moisture under high temperatures. Hair oil can be added for intense nourishment. Stand number: P140

What Salon is a marketing platform for salons to attract new customers. Users can see availability in real time, book and fill in an appointment diary. Stand number: N176

The British Barbers Association Hall of Fame competition is taking place on the stand. It includes a shoot with photographer Tim Collins. Stand number: A140

Crazy Color HYPE Pure Pigments feature five highly concentrated shades. Simply drop them into a selected base and apply for unlimited colour combinations. Stand number: V155

Hercules Sägemann Wooden Scalp Brush is available in large, piccolo and deluxe sizes. With soft, round pins the brush glides through hair without tugging or pulling. Stand number: U140

My Organics Angel Potion is a leave-in hair cream that detangles, improves manageability and hydrates hair without weighing it down. Stand number: C130

62 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


Go to salonshow.co.uk to find each stand on the map

Matakki Professional Styler slides effortlessly through the hair for a frizz-free and silky finish. The Matakki MCH heating element ensures ultra-fast heat up time. Stand number: M154

Shortcuts has 25 years’ experience creating solutions for the hair industry. Its new partnership with Google will help to take your business forward. Stand number: P174

Ronney #powered by London 4 in 1 Hairspray provides extra hold and is available in eight different formulations to suit all hair types and concerns. Stand number: L170

The Hair Development Elite Weft is made from a combination of GridLock and Multi-Weft systems to ensure hair is evenly distributed and seamlessly undetectable. Stand number: R170

Majestic Keratin Professional Hair Botox is an advanced hair repair and anti-ageing treatment that restores damaged hair cuticles by repairing broken fibres. Stand number: S180

Artero was founded in 1909 and the Spanish brand has developed specialist tools for the hairdressing industry for 100 years. Stand number: H140

Booksy is used by three million people to book hair professionals. Clients can book through the app, Instagram, Facebook, Google and salon websites. Stand number: H170

Kasho Sagano Series features a ball bearing screw system, sharp leaf blades and offset handle. The integrated curved finger rest makes it smooth and ergonomic. Stand number: V174

Saco is giving away samples of its new Silk Smooth Treatment Complex Serum. Infused with keratin and silk amino acids, the formula strengthens and protects. Stand number: C120

The Jo Robertson Hair Agency is offering a brand-neutral space where artists can show their work and give technique rather than brand-driven education. Stand number: E182

ELEVEN Australia was created by photographer Andrew O’Toole and Australian Hairdresser of the Year Joey Scandizzo. It is available from Wonderful Brands. Stand number: E147

PRODUCTS

OSMO Colour Revive in Hot Pink has a fast processing time of three minutes and the avocado oil and linseed oil-infused formula helps restore colour vibrancy. Stand number: V154

STANDS STAGES COMPETITIONS ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

63 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


Hair: Claire Chell and Heather Shaw at Francesco Group Make-up: Becky Hunting, Photography: Alex Styles

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019

PRESENTED BY


SASSOON ACADEMY

PATRICK CAMERON

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

SALON LIVE & SEMINARS Watch your hair heroes up close and personal in our Salon Live and Seminar sessions.

GUY TANG WITH #MYDENTITY

RUSH

SOFIE “STAYGOLD” POK FOR BABYLISS PRO

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW TAKING PLACE AT SALON INTERNATIONAL

TREVOR SORBIE ARTISTIC TEAM SACO ACADEMY

STAY UPDATED ED #Salon19 @Salon_Intl Salon International Salon_Int TONI&GUY

MAHOGANY


FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING STAGE

MODERN BARBER STAGE

HOURS OF FREE EDUCATION AND INSPIRATION

HJ STAGE

Learn tips & get inspiration from the best in the industry.

NEW TALENT STAGE

YOUR FAVOURITE BRANDS The chance to meet with hundreds of the industry’s leading brands, all under one roof!


BOOK NOW salonshow.co.uk/BookSept Call 0844 581 4915 (UK) or +44 (0)121 796 6291 (overseas)

STAY UPDATED #Salon19

@Salon_Intl

Salon International

Salon_Int


HJ Stage

ition Compet area

lent New Ta Stage

Standing Ovation Don’t miss the unexpected sights, sounds and demonstrations on the following stands...

Modern Barber Stage S Go on a Patrick Cameron treasure hunt

S Entrance

S Entrance

S Meet LA’s hottest colourist couple

S Bright, bold and informative

Instagram stars and co-founders of Pulp Riot semi-permanent hair colour, Alexis and David will be on the Salons Direct stand throughout the show and performing on the HJ Stage. Stand number: G140

Sophia Hilton will be on the OSMO stand and performing on the HJ Stage with her unique colourful looks and straighttalking style to Salon International attendees. Stand number: V154

See how many times you can spot Patrick Cameron! He will be appearing at least three times – including on the Wella Professionals stand, the HJ Stage and in his official seminar. You can also purchase his training video at the Wella Professionals stand so you can take Patrick home too.

S Entrance

S Spot a celebrity

Arguably the US’s most famous hairdressing export, Guy Tang will showcase his talents on the Salon Success stand – get your phone ready to take lots of selfies. Stand number: W156 S Celebrate a big birthday with Takara Belmont

W Bag yourself a session styling kit

Electric, also known as the craft brewer of hairdressing, will be selling Taster Boxes worth £72 on its stand. The boxes will be available at a special exhibition price of £39.99. You can talk to experts about becoming part of the Electric family and check out the brand’s personalised vehicles. Stand number: X130

Takara Belmont is celebrating 60 years in the UK. The stand will feature the Hair Lab which will show the company’s contribution to hair science through its technologies. There will be a VIP competition with a golden ticket in a goody bag each day where the winner will receive prizes. Stand number: N126

68 /To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915


Fellowship for British Hairdressing Stage

Business Bubble

The Hairdressers Charity officially transforms at the show

The Hairdressers’ Charity is relaunching as the Hair and Beauty Charity at Salon International. Find out more about its new name and how you can get involved at the show. Stand number: U138

g dressin ir a H h Britis Gallery Awards S Step into a showroom space

The Salon Supplies stand will feature a mini showroom displayed on two levels with around 45 pieces of furniture. The ground floor level will be interactive so you’ll be invited to sit on and touch the furniture, whilst the second level will be for display only. Stand number: D140 Win a car!

See the finalists’ collections for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional for the very first time in the British Hairdressing Awards Gallery. The 90 finalists and British Hairdresser of the Year nominee collections will be available for visitors to see before the winners are announced on 26 November. Stand number: Y170 S Entrance

S Entrance

Find your perfect partner

W The Toni & Guy Academy team

S Improve your salon business

69 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

S Wahl wonders

The Wahl stand will see the crowning of the brand’s Barber of the Year as well as demos from the Wahl Artistic Team. The brand’s stand will feature the Wahl 100 Year Museum. Filled with vintage products, artwork and displays, showcasing the history of Wahl from 1919 to the present day. Stand number: S140

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

If you need advice about maximising your salon’s profit margins visit the Business Bubble hosted by 365 Salon Education. Ken West and his team will be available across the three days offering advice on business challenges, such as pricing, social media, retailing, recruitment and you can ask personal business questions too. Stand number: W190

COMPETITIONS

The Toni & Guy stand will have a drop-in service where you can talk to experts from the Toni & Guy Academy Team about the benefits of joining the academy or introducing label.m products into your salon. Stand number: U156

On the ghd stand you can buy a pair of ghd platinum+ stylers and get them personalised for free so you’ll be the envy of all of your colleagues in the salon (and your clients will love them too)! Stand number: Z140

STAGES

A new matchmaking service will pair up salon owners, distributors and exhibitors. Attendees will be able to book meetings in the Matchmaking Lounge or on a brand’s stand. Stand number: W170

S Get personal

STANDS

Nanokeratin will announce the winner of its competition to win a Mazda MX5 on its stand. Salons will receive one ticket for the draw for every Pro Kit ordered and one ticket for every litre of Revive, Refine, Replenish and Refortify Smoother purchased before 30 September 2019. Stand number: N146

S Be amazed at the British Hairdressing Awards finalist collections gallery


SET THE STAGE Find out who will be demoing on the HJ, Modern Barber and New Talent stages and discover random facts about some of this year’s acts

HJ Stage Saturday 5 October 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30

“When my husband’s away I eat spaghetti out of a tin cold and in bed every time.”

13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 15:30 16:00

Sophia Hilton

Gustav Fouche Sarah Black Jack Howard Robert Masciave Toni & Guy Art Team Daniele de Angelis, Sophie Springett and Stuart Matuska Australian FAME Team M&P James Earnshaw SAKS Art Team Shane Bennett Pete Burkill and Issie Churcher Ben Brown

“I didn’t want to be a colourist when I first started out in hairdressing.” Jack Howard

Sunday 6 October 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 14:40 15:10 15:40 16:10 16:40 17:10 17:20

Steven Austin, Nicola McMinn, Mykey O’Halloran, Hayley Nixon & Kelsey Simpson Mahogany Creative Team KARBON KYD Sophia Hilton and Not Another Salon Team Brandon Messinger D&J Ambrose Leighanne Regan, Steve Robinson and Melvyn Royce Lane Mark Woolley and Electric London Art Team Announcement of Extensionist of the Year, sponsored by Remi Cachet Leonardo and Rudi Rizzo at Sanrizz David & Alexis Thurston HOB Academy Shaun Pulfrey Contemporary Art Team AIPP Competition Winners Announced The NHF Britain’s Best Competition with HJ Winners Announced

“Not many people know that I can play the piano.” Patrick Cameron

*

TIMETABLES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE

Monday 7 October “We share a mutual love for Gavin and Stacey, Friends and Harry Potter! We’ve even got the Trivial Pursuit Friends edition in the salon!” Skyler London Team

10:30 Zoe Irwin 11:00 Adele Clarke, Heffy Wheeler, Jes McMahon and Lesley Stitt 11:30 David and Alexis Thurston 12:00 Denman Stage Star Winner Announced 13:00 Patrick Cameron 13:30 Jo Robertson The Curl Goddess 14:00 Headmasters Team 14:30 Sophia Hilton and Not Another Salon Team 15:00 Hairdressing and Barber Council Competition Winners Announced 15:30 Skyler London Team 16:00 SeanHanna Team 70 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

“Everytime we do a show or a shoot we have an energising hands in the middle to say ‘let’s do this’!” Headmasters Team


Modern Barber Stage Saturday 5 October 10:30

“We have a statue of a gorilla painted gold in the BarberBarber Bespoke store in Manchester. He’s called Digger the Gorilla and he’s from the premiere of King Kong that took place in Covent Garden.” Johnny Baba

11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 15:30 16:00 16:30

Hannah McKnight, Dale Hince and Paul Thomas Farr Jody Taylor MR Barber Vivienne Howe Gould Barbers Dexter Johnson and Luke Harris Wez Jones Johnny Baba Baldy Paddy Corrigan and Warren Flynn Charlotte Roberts Luke Dolan Tom Chapman

“Last year for April fools we launched a Facebook video about a new product called Gould Head Polish. In the video our owner Leigh Gould polished one of our employee’s heads with a rag to ‘buff away baldness’. People actually messaged asking to buy some!”

Sunday 6 October 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 15:30 16:00 16:30 17:00

Off Cut Barbers Ruffians Artemens Jacks of London Justin Carr, Tom Baxter, Cal Newsome with Myles Lewis compering Joe Mills and the Joe and Co team Kevin Luchmun Hayden Cassidy Ky Wilson Tony Haresign with Allan Stone Kieron the Barber and Baldy Andrew Smith Artistic Team Faz Malik and the US Barber Team Christian Wiles

Gould Barbers

Monday 7 October “I can turn one of my thumbs backwards. Flexibility comes in handy when using scissors and clippers all day!”

13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 15:30 16:00

The Wild Hare Jarred Liddington Mike Taylor British Female Barber Association James Beaumont Myles Lewis, Justin Carr, Tom Baxter and Cal Newsome Manifesto Menspire Murdock London Ross Charles Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms Paul Thomas Farr

“No-one in the Manifesto team has a skin fade. We like to break stereotypes.” Mikey Pearson, Manifesto

STAGES

Vivienne Howe

10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00

New Talent Stage in association with Choose Hair

Back for a second year, the New Talent stage gives rising stars the chance to perform on stage

Charmaine Gully Simon Tuckwell Bloggs Salon ClubStar Art Team 2019 Karoliina Saunders and Team Barber Project 2019 Aesthetics Gina Conway Salon Project X ghd Brand Warriors

11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 15:30 16:00

Becky Candy Donna O’Donoghue Hare and Bone Team Blue Tit Team Jamie Stevens Team Marc Antoni Team Myles and Co Salon RUSH Workshop Team Bad Apple Hair Team Sarai Salon Team Colour Project 2019

Monday 7 October 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00 13:30 14:00

SeanHanna Young Art Team Phillippa Lee Karine Jackson Salon and Team Electric Young Artistic Team Trevor Sorbie Team Hooker & Young Young Artistic Team 14:30 Marlene Lamont & Urbanhair Highhouse Young Art Team 15:00 Headquarters Young Art Team

71 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 13:00 13:30 14:00 14:30 15:00 15:30

Sunday 6 October

COMPETITIONS

Saturday 5 October


Competition

Time!

Head over to the competitions area at Salon International to see the best and brightest hairdressing and barbering stars battle it out

Britain’s Best Competitions with the NHF and HJ The NHF’s Britain’s Best competition will be taking place on Sunday 6 October in partnership with Hairdressers Journal International. “We’ll be showcasing talented hairdressers and barbers from around the UK in one competition. Plus, Britain’s’ Best

will be even more exciting this year as we have partnered with Hairdressers Journal International and Salon International to make the competition bigger than ever,” says Hilary Hall, National Hairdressers Federation chief executive.

Finalists will be competing live to win… •Ladies Commercial Fashion Look •Afro Stylist of the Year •Barber of the Year •Men’s Cut and Finish •Bridal Hairdresser of the Year •Avant Garde Stylist of the Year

UK Student of the Year Competitions Hosted by The Hair and Barber Council, the UK Student of the Year competitions will take place for the first time at Salon International. The event will be staged on Monday 7 October. Colleges, salons and training establishments

have been invited to put forward students for the competition. Finalists will be competing live to win… •Barber Student of the Year •Hairdressing Student of the Year

HJ’s Extensions Specialist competition, sponsored by Remi Cachet

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

COMPETITIONS

Returning for another exciting year at Salon International, the Remi Cachet sponsored hair extensions competition will be creating a buzz in the competitions area on Sunday 6 October.

Finalists will be competing live to win… •HJ’s Extensions Specialist of the Year Classical Look •HJ’s Extensions Specialist of the Year Creative Look

Denman Stage Star Entrants will showcase their skills to a panel of industry expert judges and a live audience on the HJ Stage. For the first time, the 2019 winner will have the chance to create their own collection and present the looks live at a future hairdressing event. The

winner will be mentored by Denman global creative director, Paul Stafford and photographed by Desmond Murray. Competition entries close on Friday 6 September, so if you haven’t already entered, go to denmanbrush.com for more details. 72 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915



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Tony Rizzo

Behind the scenes with

The Alternative Hair Show’s founder reveals his all-time favourite moments and why 2019 is set to be bigger and better than ever at ExCeL London. We hope to create a Royal Albert Hall-style atmosphere within the auditorium with a large audience. We’ll be doing this with lots of music, lights and incredible performances. Who will be performing at the 2019 show?

What can we expect from this year’s show?

This year’s theme is Parody and we expect to see interpretations based on avant garde, couture, glamour and prêt-á-porter. There is always an element of surprise from our international artists who will be travelling from Russia, Germany, Spain, Italy and Hungary. There will also be a minimum of 36 finalists competing in the competition where we hope to find this year’s creative artist. Can you tell us about your partnership with Salon International?

The Alternative Hair Show has been going for 37 years. It’s always been a standalone event that happens around Salon International but this year visitors at the exhibition can enjoy the show in the auditorium

There will be 50 top names within the hairdressing industry performing at this year’s show. UK teams will include HOB, Don’t miss it! Sassoon, Marc Antoni, Anne Alternative Hair Show Veck, Sanrizz, ExCeL London TIGI Creative Sunday 6 October Team, Toni 2019 at 19:30 & Guy and, of course, Saco Academy. What’s your standout moment from the show?

Our legends show with our worldwide patron Vidal Sassoon at the Royal Albert Hall was a highlight for me and for the entire hairdressing industry. Another outstanding moment was when a child came on stage to receive the cheque for Fighting Leukaemia and he was cured five years later. What’s your relationship with Fighting Leukaemia?

All of the ticket revenue will be going to our charity Fighting

Leukaemia. If you purchase a ticket to this year’s show, you’ll get a two-day ticket to Salon International, which is fantastic. We’ve been asked by many trade shows around the world if we would partner with them but Salon

International is the perfect fit and it’s given us a great opportunity to be under one roof. Go to salonshow. co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915 to book your tickets plus twoday exhibition entry!

ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW

75 / To book tickets go to salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915



CUTTING EDGE The dedicated section for all your men’s hairdressing news and needs

Ideal Partners The Bluebeards Revenge has announced a partnership with Panasonic Professional Grooming to encourage barbers and men’s hairdressers to ‘be different’ by combining professional styling products with professional clippers. The brands have launched a competition that offers the chance to win two prize bundles (worth £400 each) which include ER-GP81 Panasonic clippers and The Bluebeards Revenge products. The competition closes on 2 September, head to hji.co.uk/men to find out how to enter.

A CUT ABOVE

DESMOND MURRAY

If you needed another reason to feel proud of the work you do as a men’s hairdresser, you’ll love the results of this study, conducted by Wahl to celebrate its 100-year anniversary. Almost a third of men (32%) claim a fresh cut gives them the confidence to deal with challenging work situations. The study also found eight out of ten men (81%) feel more confident in social situations when they’ve had a recent cut. Looks like a fresh style is a shortcut to confidence.

The power of a multi-tasking product never fails to appeal to clients. Here’s three to add to your retail shelf:

THREE OF THE BEST

1 2 American Crew 3 in 1 Shampoo, Conditioner and Body Wash

Mr Muk Hair, Beard and Body Wash

77 / hji.co.uk

3 Reuzel 3-in-1 Tea Tree Shampoo, Conditioner and Body Wash

42% of men now wear facial hair, according to YouGov research.


SQUAD

GOALS Throwback styles reimagined in a modern way

Hair: Jordi Pérez at La Barberia de Gràcia Make-up: La Barberia de Gràcia Styling: Angel Cabezuelo Photography: Sergi Jasanada 78 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“SQUAD takes inspiration from global fashion weeks and emerging trends. The trend for 1980s style is referenced in the clothing and the hairstyles of our models. We treated the hair as our canvas and played with different colours and textures to create a fresh and current collection.” Jordi Pérez

79 / hji.co.uk


CHAMELEON A series of styles that push the boundaries of men’s hair

80 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Rory Mason and Ashley Gamble at Ashley Gamble Photography: Richard Miles

“We used one model to create a series of looks. The styles transition from long and textured to a dressed look and finally to a short buzz cut. It shows the incredible versatility of men’s hair.” Ashley Gamble 81 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Aurum A metallic, soft and wearable finish

82 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“Aurum was inspired by rare metals.We wanted this to symbolise wealth, adding an expensive feel to the collection. Using this as our colour foundation, we worked with a commercial softness to the styling and created something that looks effortless and achievable.� Ashley Haynes and Charlotte Oldfield at Rush Hair

83 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Don’t miss Rush Live at Salon International on Monday 7 October at 12:00-13:15. Book tickets at salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

Hair: Ashley Haynes and Charlotte Oldfield at Rush Hair Make-up: Megumi Matsuno Styling: Magdalena Jacobs Photography: Jack Eames

84 / hji.co.uk



FASHION

Rock influences with an edgy twist

GLAM POP

86 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

87 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Don’t miss Mahogany’s Seminar at Salon International on Sunday 6 October at 12:15-13:30. Book tickets at salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

Hair: Mahogany Creative Team, London & Oxford Make-up: Claire De-Graft Styling: Chloe Holland Photography: Nessi

“Glam Pop takes strong references from the ground-breaking 1960s Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter and 1970s rock photographer Esther Friedman. The cuts feature visible disconnection, erratic silhouettes with dishevelled point cutting that is fused with precision cutting. The hair colour captures the muted linear of colour formed at sunset transforming into heavier contrasting shades as the two begin to amalgamate.” Colin Greaney, Mahogany international creative director 88 / hji.co.uk


quality European furniture at affordable price s expert salon planning and design

t. 016 70 73 89 79 w.albertewandesign.com


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FASHION

IDENTITY Don’t be afraid to be unique 91 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Karen Thomson Make-up: Megumi Matsuno Styling: Desiree Lederer Photography: Jack Eames

“We wanted to create unique styles that clients would love and we wanted to showcase our array of hairdressing skills.� Karen Thomson

92 / hji.co.uk


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

“I love the new Joico LumiShine YouthLock shades because they make hair healthy, shiny and youthful-looking, whilst guaranteeing 100% grey coverage!” Larisa Love, Joico brand ambassador

Unlock the fountain of youth Use Joico LumiShine YouthLock to give your clients the look and feel of younger-looking locks

T

he first collagen-infused Joico permanent crème colour harnesses the properties of collagen to help revitalise strands and lock in the look and feel of younger-looking hair. After just one colour service your client’s hair will spring back with renewed bounce*, body** and shine thanks to the brand’s signature LumiShine.*** Your client will also benefit from smooth and soft** locks and 100% grey coverage. The YouthLock difference Joico LumiShine YouthLock contains an exclusive anti-ageing elixir featuring a blend of collagen, buriti

oil and amino acids to help hair feel rejuvenated while locking in youthful and healthy-looking hair. It is also formulated with LumiShine Bond-Building ArgiPlex technology for shine, colour longevity and healthy-looking hair results. The five key benefits The permanent crème colour is designed to protect and restore the youth of your client’s hair by offering five key features: • It provides 100% grey coverage. • It provides body, movement and bounce.* • It makes hair more manageable and noticeably smooth with

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an increased softness.** • It makes hair more radiant with up to twice the shine.*** • It keeps hair hydrated and helps to prevent breakage.**** Discover LumiShine YouthLock Joico’s new collagen-infused colour is available in 13 permanent crème shades (RRP £9.20): • NN Series: 10NN, 9NN, 8NN, 7NN, 6NN, 5NN, 4NN, 2NN • NA Series: 9NNA, 7NNA, 6NNA, 5NNA, 3NNA For more information about Joico LumiShine YouthLock go to www.joico.eu.

With K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner. ** With K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner on damaged hair. *** vs. untreated damaged hair. **** Combing breakage on damaged hair with K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner vs. non-conditioning shampoo.

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RUSH LIVE 2019 ICC Auditorium, ExCel Monday 7th October 12pm Visit us on stand M140 at Salon International during 05.10.19 - 07.10.19 For tickets to the Salon International exhibition and Rush Live, visit salonshow.co.uk/bookrush Receive 20% off ticket price using RUSH20. Students can book for £15 + VAT using the code RUSHSTUDENT. Students must bring proof of ID to gain entry with their purchased ticket.


FASHION

HOUSE OF

LUXURY The art of couture braiding techniques 95 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Don’t miss Patrick Cameron’s Seminar at Salon International on Sunday 6 October at 10:30-11:45. Book tickets at salonshow.co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

Hair: Patrick Cameron Make-up: Alison Chesterton Styling: Marco Erbi Photography: Marco Erbi

“House of Luxury is a celebration of the type of hairstyling that I absolutely love. There is still a very big demand for new braiding techniques, re-imagined and made easy. I wanted to put together a collection that is both cohesive and modern. I am determined to challenge the perception that elegance is seen as old fashioned – elegance and style are for everyone regardless of their age.” Patrick Cameron 96 / hji.co.uk


High-end luxury salon products that are kind to the skin – and the environment Moo Hair is a family-run ethical company based in Scotland. From our Edinburgh base, our family ‘herd’ have spent the past two years working with chemists and hairdressers to develop our range using pure natural ingredients. We only use responsibly harvested Icelandic moss, Fairtrade Madagascan marula oil and sea salt from renewable sources.

There are no parabens, sulphates, harsh chemicals, SLS or synthetic detergents. All of the products are over 96% biodegradable, free from artificial colourings, and smell great. We pride ourselves on being cruelty free and 100% vegan, and will never sell to any countries that would test our products on animals.

Most of the range is made from over 95% naturally derived ingredients with the hair spray being made with 86% naturally derived ingredients.

The packaging is made from glass bottles and jars which are 100% recyclable. The labels are printed on recycled paper using vegetable-based inks and the products are transported in recyclable cardboard.

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

THE POWER OF TWO Remi Cachet’s new launch is set to revolutionise the tape hair extensions market

R

emi Cachet has launched Twin Tabs – a new breed of tape extension that forgoes the need for glue. Twin Tabs are two tape hair extensions that are pre-joined at the top of the extension, making them quicker, easier and simpler to apply and remove. “We have seen our Injection Tape Hair extensions really soar in sales over the last 12 months, as consumers and stylists love how quick they are to apply. They are perfect for first time extension wearers, those with ultra-fine hair or for creating a voluminous on-trend lob,” explains Victoria Lynch, founder of Remi Cachet. “However, even with the correct removal products and skills, tape hair extension removal still eats into a stylist’s column.” Twin goals In contrast, removal of the Twin Tabs is clean and simple, just release the lock with a gentle squeeze, bring the Twin Tab down the hair, brush through and they are ready for re-application. The brand gets bonus points for its recycling credentials too – Twin Tabs’ pink paper packaging is 100% recyclable and used hair can be returned to the Hair Recycle Scheme which aims to help save the world’s oceans. Twin Tabs are quick to apply with their wider tape tops and micro ring application method. The polyurethane top securely holds the hair in place to prevent shedding and fits discreetly against the client’s head. The injection moulding on the outside of the tape mimics natural hair growth, making them ultra discreet.

How to apply: • Section the hair neatly. • Place the Twin Tab up against the top section line and open up the tabs, securing both the top and bottom with clips. • Using the guide holes and your section comb, pull through the client’s hair. • Working with a threader and mini lock, clamp down to close the lock on the client’s hair. • Remove the section clips and drop down the top layer of the Twin Tab before adding more extensions.

Double time Application for four Twin Tabs is equivalent to a pack of 10 Injection Tapes and Twin Tabs and can give clients at least 12 months wear – providing the brand’s high quality Elegance hair is used and a good aftercare routine is followed. Twin Tabs will launch with Remi Cachet’s Super Stylists in August and will be available to Remi Cachet stylists from September. The brand is focusing on the professional market, therefore new product launches will only be available to purchase to those with trade accounts.

Twin Tabs are available in 16” and 20” lengths. Trade Price: From £99 for a pack of four.

Apply for a Remi Cachet Trade Account online at www.remicachet.com. 98 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Experiment with beautiful avant garde colours and styling

99 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: David Murray for Joico Make-up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Tony Le-Britton

“The inspiration for this collection came from wanting to play with bold colour and experiment with different and alternative techniques. I don’t often get a chance to use so many intense shades so I wanted to show how you can use strong colour and avant garde styling and still make it look beautiful.” David Murray

100 / hji.co.uk


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FASHION

3am The ultimate post-party styles

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FASHION

“3am is based around the aftermath of a high society YSL mansion party. Each image tells its own story and is powerful in itself with the use of graphic shapes and texture. We wanted the hair to be exaggerated and extreme while remaining cool, current and beautiful.� Ken Picton and Zoe Williams 103 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Ken Picton and Zoe Williams, Ken Picton Salon Make-up: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Ella Murphy Photography: Andrew O’Toole

104 / hji.co.uk



FASHION

Sea Life Be swept away by the bright colours of the ocean 106 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“This collection is inspired by vibrant tropical sea life. I used techniques to enhance the texture of the hair with colour. The final images were chosen due to their dynamic nature and how they give the perception of movement underwater.� Lloyd Court, colour director at Skyler London

107 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Don’t miss Skyler London on the HJ stage on Monday 7 October at 15:30 to 16:00! Book tickets at salonshow. co.uk/tickets or call 0844 581 4915

Hair: Lloyd Court at Skyler London Make-up: Jenny Morrell and Wilma Stigson Styling: Skyler Hanna Photography: Sean Hanna

108 / hji.co.uk


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

HOW TO DEAL WITH NO-SHOWS No-shows and cancelled appointments add up throughout the year. Follow NHF chief executive Hilary Hall’s tips to prevent them in future

D

id you know that one no-show a day for a £50 appointment could cost you up to £14,400 over the course of a year? Late cancellations and no-shows can seriously affect your cash flow and profitability so what’s the best way to handle them?

Set up charge fees “The law says you cannot impose financial penalties for no-shows or late cancellations that are too strict and unfair to clients,” says Hilary. “However, you can set up a policy that allows you to charge an amount that will cover your actual losses. “For example, a reasonable policy would be to request at least 48 hours’ notice of a cancellation or a 50% fee will be charged. This is because you cannot

Build good relations “Aim to minimise the amount of no-shows and late cancellations you More support have to deal with,” from the NHF/NBF advises NHF/NBF chief executive For less than 75p a day, the Hilary Hall. “If NHF/NBF offers a wide range you build good of legal, employment and relationships financial help plus brilliant with your ideas for managing people clients they and boosting your business. are more NHF/NBF members can call likely to feel the membership team for committed to free information and advice your salon and about how to deal with less likely to let no-shows and late you down. cancellations. “Also, try to ensure their appointment starts on time. If you don’t value their time – why should they value yours?”

realistically be expected to fill the slot in the time available.” NHF/NBF members can download a free in-depth guide to handling no-shows and late cancellations: nhf.info/no-show-guide. Be transparent Your clients must be fully aware of your no-show/late cancellation policy and it should be clearly displayed in your salon and on your website. You can also include the information in appointment reminders and on appointment cards. A guide on how to provide an outstanding client experience can be downloaded by NHF/NBF members: nhf.info/client-experience-guide. Have a plan B “Keep a list of clients who like to be contacted if last-minute appointments become available,” says Hilary. “You could offer an incentive such as a 10% discount or an extra treatment.” Find out how to keep your salon clients and earn their continued loyalty: nhf.info/client-loyalty.

Prevention is better than cure If your client books in person, give them an appointment card and if they book over the phone, repeat the appointment date and time and send an immediate text or email message to confirm. “Always send out appointment reminders via your clients’ preferred method of communication,” says Hilary. “Do this at least three days in advance and remind them how much notice they need to give if they want to cancel.”

Visit www.nhf.info/join or call 01234 831 965 for more information. Join the NHF/NBF before the end of September 2019 and quote HJS25 to get £25 off your membership fee. 109 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Simplicity Part II

Unseen images from Sally Brooks’award-winning British Hairdresser of the Year 2018 collection

110 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“This collection is all about the beauty of simplicity, a moment of natural beauty and effortless style. I wanted the hair to breathe, working with natural undertones in the hair colour and simple textures allows each picture to have a beautiful moment of simplicity.� Sally Brooks at Brooks & Brooks, London

111 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Sally Brooks at Brooks & Brooks, London Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Ann Shore Photography: Jenny Hands

112 / hji.co.uk


CALL US TODAY

0844 3356 121 I N - S A L O N

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FASHION

H20 Be inspired by the power of water

115 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“Water was my inspiration for this collection. The images are based on the shapes and movement that water can make. I wanted the shape of the hair to mirror the plastic pieces that are designed to look like water frozen in time.� Helen Tether at Helen Tether Award Winning Hair

116 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Helen Tether at Helen Tether Award Winning Hair Make-up: Grace Sinnott Photography: Dan Thomas

117 / hji.co.uk


118 / hji.co.uk

BINARY/NON-BINARY Hair is hair and beauty is beautiful

FASHION


FASHION

Hair: Jeppe Gregersen, Gary Ingham Aveda Salons & Spas Make-up: Danni Smith Styling: Gary Ingham Photography: Richard Miles

“Gender is not simply male or female. It’s a multi-coloured spectrum of beauty and diversity. We present this collection with no preconception of a model’s gender to show how it really doesn’t matter. Hair is hair and beauty is beautiful.” Jeppe Gregersen

119 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

A Collective Movement Authentic and natural beauty

120 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“We wanted to capture the uniqueness of individual beauty, hair textures and hair types. We asked the models to choose their own clothes and make-up so they could be their authentic selves. Our creative process was to completely trust each other’s talents. We did not interfere with our photographer’s creative eye, nor the model’s styling or make-up.” Subrina Kidd

Hair: Subrina Kidd, Dee Carrington and Yoko Setoyama Photography: Susan Dale

121 / hji.co.uk


WITH THE BEST IN THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY


PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY

BOOK NOW Visit www.hji.co.uk/bha or contact Lizzi Diggins on 020 3841 7365 or email Lizzi@hji.co.uk MONDAY 25TH NOVEMBER 2019 JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR HOUSE, PARK LANE, LONDON W1

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FASHION

MESMERIC A figment of your imagination

124 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“My inspiration came from my childhood imagination – I invented a human-like mystical being that has magical powers, beauty and elegance. I created textures in the hair that have natural elegance with movement such as curly, tousled hair as well as straight, sleek hair.” Bridie Meehan at Joey Scandizzo Salon 125 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

Hair: Bridie Meehan at Joey Scandizzo Salon Make-up: Georgia Ramman Styling: Karly Brown Photography: Karla Majnaric

126 / hji.co.uk


GET THE LOOK

Hair: Errol Douglas MBE at Errol Douglas London Salon for Salon Services Make-up: Branka Vorkapic Styling: Jess Grist Photography: Barry Jeffery

MAGENTA MADNESS Errol Douglas creates a choppy purple bob for the autumn/winter season

127 / hji.co.uk


GET THE LOOK

“Who says autumn needs to signal the end of light and bright hair tones? Why not throw away the rulebook and instead opt for a fun and bold style you can rock all year round, like this playful magenta crop.” Errol Douglas MBE Before

After

Start by sectioning the hair off Begin by pre-lightening the 1 2 all around the parietal bone hair to a light blonde to and lower nape of the neck achieve colour intensity. Then, and then undercut. The overall shape of the hair cut is a classic box bob with length falling to the cheek bone. The fringe should be sectioned out to keep it heavy.

apply XP100 shade black 1.0 mixed with 6% developer to the undercut section of the hair.

Next, mix 50ml Celeb Luxury 3 Viral Colorwash Purple with 25ml Celeb Luxury Viral Colorwash Hot Pink and apply to the root area – then smudge down to the mid-lengths.

Continue by applying just For this particular look, use a Complete the look by using 4 5 6 the Hot Pink shade from the round brush when drying — Maria Nila’s Style & Finish mid length to the ends of the hair. not too perfectly though, so as to Styling Mousse and Paul Mitchell’s Leave to develop for 30 minutes re-applying a second time if a more intense colour is desired.

give a little bit of bluntness.

128 / hji.co.uk

Neon Sugar Spray Texture & Body Salt Spray.




T HE HOT LIST

Foam alone

Cool shades

Curl friends

Innoluxe Foam is a pre-diluted version of the brand’s hero product ReBond V2. The formula adds shine, deeply repairs hair and can be applied at a styling station rather than at the backwash.

Kevin.Murphy has introduced three new COLOR.ME Toners – create cool brown tones with Stone, reinvent pinks with Rose or experiment with green tones from pastels to vivids with Jade.

R+Co’s Cassette Curl Shampoo and Conditioner will define the shape of natural curls whilst making them soft, smooth and frizz-free. £28 and £27.50 respectively.

Weightless oil

Detangling specialist

Back to black

Sebastian Professional Dark Oil adds extra body as well as smoothing hair, all without weighing it down. The regime includes a shampoo, conditioner, mask and hair mist. From £18

Created by a hairdresser, The Knot Dr’s The Pro Brush detangles with ease thanks to the perfectly sized and optimally spaced bristles that have been designed to reduce breakage and massage scalps.

The new semi-permanent OSMO Colour Psycho in Wild Black is a base shade that can provide natural black results, give unlimited options for grey balayage or add depth and shade.

Experimental colour

Stick together

Protect and perfect

Goldwell has launched Elumen Play, a semi-permanent colour that’s available in eight shades that fade true to tone. The Elumen Play Eraser removes colour – perfect for endless experimentation.

Richy Stickees are a natural hair extension tape that can be applied in 30 minutes. The tapes are available in 42 colours and five lengths and are invisible, hypoallergenic and water resistant.

Wella Professionals ColorMotion+ Colour Care offers colour protection for up to eight weeks. The range includes a treatment, scalp protecting lotion, shampoo, conditioner and mask.

131 / hji.co.uk


T HE HOT LIST

Water 2.0

Let it glow

Hair revival

Insight Antioxidant Hydra-Refresh Hair and Body Water is infused with aloe vera juice, coconut oil and kau pe extract to refresh and hydrate. RRP £15.60

L’Oréal Professionnel GLOW is a translucent permanent hair colour for neutralisation and luminosity. It can be used to refresh an existing colour or given to a client who wants colour for the first time.

Prevent damage when colouring with the Sens.ùs MC2 Nectar range. It features two in-salon products that help restructure and repair hair before, during and after the colouring process.

Pollution’s nemesis

Refresh and recharge

Turn back time

Fight pollution and hard water with Sachajuan Anti-Pollution Shampoo & Conditioner. It contains concentrated natural active ingredients to help protect hair from external contaminants.

Nioxin Scalp Recovery is a three step anti-dandruff recovery system for itchy, flaky scalps. The cleanser, conditioner and serum removes scalp flakes, debris and build-up to help clear and soothe scalps.

Available in 13 natural-looking shades, Joico LumiShine YouthLock helps rejuvenate hair with a collagen-infused formula that aims to give tresses a youthful appearance. RRP £9.20

Save and protect

Bleach blonde

Knot a problem

Restore damaged hair, as well as adding strength and volume with Quinoaplex Rapid Hair Renewal Formula. The one-step product also leaves hair shiny and improves colour retention.

Swedish export Maria Nila has launched a Bleach Collection which is now available from Salon Services. The range contains a professional bleach, a developer and take-home products.

Boost the shine and manageability of your client’s mane and make combing and brushing a breeze with Eleven Australia Detangle My Hair Leave-In Spray. RRP £16

132 / hji.co.uk


HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 130 YEARS. JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY Join us as a HJ Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to Membership Lounges at HJ Live & Salon International 10% discount on HJ Insurance Capital Hair & Beauty will offer a 25% discount to HJ Members (in-store only) on their first order with an ongoing 5% discount on each store visit going forward. In addition, a 10% discount will be offered on all training courses at Capital Hair & Beauty, M&S and Salon Connection stores.

Subscription services If you have any queries about subscription or newsagent copies, please contact the relevant number below. Subscription enquiries UK customers: 01371 851875 Email: hj@escosubs.co.uk Overseas customers: +44 (0)1371 851876 Fax: 01371 851808 Address: Hairdressers Journal International, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY Subscription rates Gold Membership (print & digital) £49 Silver Membership (digital) £10 Newsagents enquiries Distributed by Marketforce (UK) Ltd, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London, SE1 0SU. Circulation Marketing by Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, registered office North Quay House, Sutton Harbour, Plymouth, PL4 0RA

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

PRESENTS THE

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS

SPONSORED BY

Hairdressers Journal International (HJ) incorporating Hair & Beauty Volume 134 No. 65604 March 2019. ISSN 0143-6910 (Print) ISSN 2059-3430 (Online). Published every month by Hairdressers Journal International, M Squared Media, 1.17 The Plaza, 535 Kings Road, London, SW10 0SZ. www.hji.co.uk Classified advertising prepress by Classified Central Media. Printing by Walstead, Southernprint Ltd., 17-21 Factory Road, Upton Industrial Estate, Poole, Dorset, BH16 5SN. Distributed by Marketforce UK, 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU. Tel: 020 3787 9001. © 2019 M Squared Media


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3 SHOWS, 3 VENUES Register for free tickets at www.hjlive.co.uk EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 RDS DUBLIN 20-21 OCTOBER 2019 EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

PRESENTED BY


INTERIORS

Fairytale Charm Gina Conway’s new spa and salon brings some Californian sunshine to the heart of Wimbledon

FACT FILE Name: Gina Conway Aveda Salon and Spa Address: 20 Wimbledon Hill Road, London Owner: Gina Conway Budget: £335K Staff: 45

137 / hji.co.uk


INTERIORS

GINA’S TOP TIPS • Involve your team Get your staff to put forward their ideas so they have input and belief in the design. • Stay in control If you have a project manager, don’t let them do everything. If something gets decided without your

G

ina Conway’s mission has always been to bring joy to her clients through impeccable customer service, a professional and educated team and a warm welcome. She’s continued this positive philosophy with her new salon in Wimbledon. When the lease ended on Gina’s former salon in Wimbledon, she discovered the space inside Elys Urban Beauty, which is an emporium for in-store beauty treatments and decided it would be the perfect fit. Gina Conway Aveda Salon and Spa now sits alongside a collective of service-orientated beauty brands adjacent to the Elys of Wimbledon department store. Spread across three floors, the boutique salon and spa feature a dedicated hair and scalp consultation area, a retail space, a vintage blow-dry bar on the ground floor as well as the luxury salon and spa services upstairs. The modern and whimsical style of Gina’s salon belies the legal struggle that began the whole process. “The project was a legal battle from the beginning as the tenants did not want to leave,” explains Gina. “Once it was

settled in court another problem began. We had the challenge of cutting a hole in the large department store wall to adjoin the two buildings.” By all accounts it was a bigger job than first thought. “It was like Jenga as once you took one brick out the building started to shift,” recalls Gina. Now all the drama is over, the salon has transformed into the Manhattan space meets chic Parisian atelier that Gina had envisioned. Materials such as raw wood, concrete, exposed brick and pops of teal herringbone tiles have been used to break up the different spaces of the salon. Grass, moss and living walls (a feature in all of Gina’s salons) give the space a calming feel. This is enhanced by the predominantly blue, green and grey shades which are used over the three floors. On the ceiling vintage ladders with plants laced between the rungs make guests feel like they are in a secret garden. Gina was focused on her pursuit to find the perfect pieces for her new salon. She says: “I fell in love with some Eammes-style Perspex chairs I saw in a little salon in Strasbourg, France,” she reveals. “I got the name 138 / hji.co.uk

consent and it goes wrong, you will only have yourself to blame. • Make yourself known We only moved across the road but some clients struggled to find us. We put a sign in the window of the old salon that said: ‘Look behind you!’

and chased them up. It turns out the brand is called Cinderella and the chairs are from Paris – just 10 minutes from where I live,” she says. A fairy-tale story that’s befitting of the happily-ever-after ending the salon deserves.


Now available to purchase at Salon Supplies Call us today for more information on 0844 3356 121


CAREERS

Joe Mills

The Jack of all Trades The men’s session stylist has successful salons in London and has launched a new barbering space called MILLS in two UK Primark stores What was your route into hair?

I started at 16 and worked as an apprentice in a salon. I went to college to get my City & Guilds qualifications and then my journey started. I moved to London in 1990 and landed in Soho and that’s when it started to get really exciting. What are your current projects?

We launched a new brand, MILLS x Primark and we have just opened our second store in Manchester. I have two brands in Soho – The Lounge Soho salon and Joe and Co barbershop. We are opening a site in Notting Hill for Joe and Co and a second Soho site at the end of the summer. What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

Be honest to yourself and your craft as there are no fast tracks in life. Surround yourself with like-minded people. Social media is a great platform but hair and barber shows are amazing for getting your work out there. Make sure you know where you want to go – if it’s session work assist the best people you can. If it’s education, then decide who inspires you and see how and what they do. Always do your research.

What are the pros and cons of your current role?

I have a lot of people working for me and I don’t take that lightly. Every day is exciting and scary at the same time. If it’s too easy everyone would do it. However, I wouldn’t change a thing. Every time I walk into one of the stores I am reminded of the work taken by my team and myself to get to where we are and that always puts a smile on my face and grounds me. What has been the biggest challenge you’ve faced in your career so far?

At the time challenges seem like mountains, but after you have climbed them you look back and think that was OK. The day-to-day management of my time and making sure I don’t spread myself too thin is my biggest challenge. It’s easy to over-promise and I’m lucky that I have a very understanding team. I oversee all of the brands and develop the new ideas and see them through, which is a task on its own along with 140 / hji.co.uk

clients and session work. Without the team around me this would not work at any level. What’s your styling philosophy?

It has to work for the hair and the face – use the right product and it will do what you want it to do. What are your tips for someone aspiring to have a career like yours?

Work hard, be humble and listen. What’s next for you?

I don’t really have a five-year plan as such, but I know where I want to be. I want to develop the teams around me and build a solid education platform across all the brands. This year we are starting to enter some of the industry competitions. I would like to do more of that and bring some of the team along on that journey. MILLS as a brand is exciting but I’m also thinking about where Joe and Co and The Lounge fit and can be developed further. Watch this space!


JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE

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RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

We are looking for experienced, creative and passionate Hair Stylists, Colour Technicians and Salon Managers with exceptional customer care skills to join our team

Technician / Stylist Banstead, Surrey

Are you living in Surrey, working in a London salon and tired of commuting? We have a vacancy for a creative technician/stylist who has comprehensive experience in all aspects of hairdressing. 5 days per week

FULL TIME STYLIST WANTED ChandlerWright is a long standing and award-winning Label M salon with a young creative team based in the heart of Blackheath Village. ChandlerWright has assisted at London Fashion Week for the past 4 years and encourages creativity through photoshoots, workshops and national competitions.

Salary- ÂŁ45,000 per annum

Competitive salary.

Call Jane on 07730678950 Call Clifford on 07789733339 Applications via email can be made to cliffordhunt@btconnect.com 142 / hji.co.uk

Please email your CV to info@chandlerwright.co.uk or call 020 8318 2809


re opport i JOIN THE RUSH FAMILY TODAY! 020 3474 4102 careers@rush.co.uk careers.rush.co.uk VISIT US ON STAND M140 AT SALON INTERNATIONAL For tickets to Salon International and Rush Live, visit www.salonshow.co.uk/rush

WINNER 2017/18 ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR


RECRUITMENT Tel: 020 3841 7376 Email: jobs@hji.co.uk

Twitter: @HJi_Jobs

hji.co.uk/jobs

Andrew K, a little oasis tucked away in the heart of quirky Marylebone Village. A friendly but professional atmosphere; where you can come and unwind by having your hair, nails, feet, or a complete body treatment by highly experienced professionals.

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY Bringing you the very best hair and beauty jobs.

Available space for rental, for a person who is self-motivated to bring their clients with the opportunity to grow and develop, with their own style. The Salon could offer a small self contained private room or the option to work in an open working Salon. The rental will include a fully serviced Salon ie. hot water, laundry service and teas and coffees. Please contact Andrew on 07801 891120 or email andrew@andrewk.co.uk if you are interested. Cost: ÂŁ400.00 per week.

REGISTER YOUR CV FOR FREE jobs.hji.co.uk/register

A requirement for hair salons under COSHH regulation

To purchase, visit your local wholesaler or contact the HBSA

0845 519 3258 www.thehbsa.co.uk 144 / hji.co.uk


CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

PROPERTY

HOT WATER SYSTEMS

Hair Salon For Sale Central London Location "Near Covent Garden"

Hot Water Systems

Established 20+ Years Huge computerised client base of over 10'000 + clients High Turnover & High Net Profit

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For 22,286 salon owners the hot water QLJKWPDUH KDV rQDOO\ HQGHG Has Yours? Continuous hot water to washpoints Eliminates Temperature Fluctuations Economical to operate Unique “Superboost” for colour rinsing Hot Water at the lowest possible cost &DQ EH rWWHG DQ\ZKHUH \HDU *XDUDQWHH 6SHFLrFDOO\ GHVLJQHG IRU KDLUGUHVVLQJ ,QWHUHVW )UHH &UHGLW

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ZZZ VDORQPDVWHU LQIR For further queries please contact Richard 07968 470303 or Email Medicean@hotmail.com

Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Busy Local Centre. Rapidly growing area, Lease. Spacious Double Unit. Takes £6,000wk. High profit. £65,000 Farnborough, Hants. Hair / Beauty. Busy location. Parade. Lease. Well fitted throughout. £2,500wk. Real potential for younger owner. Vendor retiring. £20,000 - Offers Invited Guildford area. High Class Salon. Quality fitted throughout. 12 styling positions. £5,000wk (5 days). Good profits. Owner retiring. £400,000 Freehold (or £49,500 with new lease) Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents). Retirement Sale. £22,000 Reading area. Old Established Hair Salon. Good Class Area. Lease. Spacious Salon. Eleven styling positions. £2,500wk (5 days). £35,000 Reading area - Growing Village. Smart Salon. New Lease. Staff run. Retirement Sale. £35,950 Sanderstead, South Croydon. Fully Fitted Hair Salon Premises. New 10 year lease @ £15,000p.a. No Premium. Woking near, Surrey. Hair Salon. Wealthy Village Centre. Lease @ £13,000p.a. Same owner 12 years. Under trading. £15,000

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Maletti UK showroom by appointment only: 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL, LONDON Unit 58, 4th floor Office: 020 3207 2032 - info@maletti.co.uk - www.maletti.it/en/


INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens T Moody and mysterious

“This is one of our Artistic Team of the Year images. Photography at the time was moody, dark and mysterious and we wanted the hair to mimic a halo shining around the beautiful model.”

Sally Brooks

HJ’s current British Hairdresser of the Year and the co-founder of Brooks & Brooks London shares her six all-time favourite creations W Pure and simple

“This is one of my favourites from my 2018 British Hairdresser of the Year collection. These images were about being raw and beautiful in a world where retouching is prevalent so we left the hair as natural as possible.”

X Free spirits

“This is from my winning 2017 British Hairdresser of the Year collection, so will always be special to me. I chose the models before the concept as I’m inspired by people around me. I met these girls and loved their free spirit. It was like magic when we brought them together!”

T 3URŤOH VKRW “This is one of our earlier shots, photographed by the late, great Stuart Weston. We were doing a lot of editorial work at the time and I loved playing with texture and shape. I always think a profile shot adds something extra to a hair image.”

X Thrill of the catwalk

W Decadence

“This is one of my favourite shots for its simplicity and femininity. It shows short hair can look beautiful. It was one of our London Hairdresser of the Year images and still looks as fresh, timeless and on-trend today as it did when it was created!”

“This is from the L’Oréal Colour Trophy closing show we did in 2018. As our models walked the catwalk our images flashed up on gigantic screens. Seeing the models on a 30ft high screen was an amazing feeling!” 146 / hji.co.uk


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